Lofoten Classics MiniGUIDE

Transcription

Lofoten Classics
MiniGUIDE
by Andy Hyslop, Jonathan Lagoe and Chris Craggs
Version 2.1 - September 2005
Thank you for downloading this
ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE. We hope that
you find the information useful, inspiring and accurate.
The PDF MiniGUIDE system means
that we will be able to keep the
MiniGUIDEs continually up-to-date
but to do this we need your feedback.
Please send any comments you have
to [email protected].
Your subscription to this MiniGUIDE
includes free updates to future
MiniGUIDES.
HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR MiniGUIDE
This MiniGUIDE is designed to be printed and compiled into a compact booklet. For best results it should be printed on good quality A4 paper using a
modern colour inkjet printer.
PRINTER SETTINGS
- Choose Landscape printing on a
Good quality colour setting.
- Initially print at at full size (100%).
- Ensure that any options such as
Shrink oversize pages to paper size
are UNCHECKED.
- Select any options to
Maximize printable area.
- Select any options to Centre printable area.
(See Problems below)
Fold
pages down
the centre
Printed sides
facing outwards
PRINTING
- Do not print page 1 (this page).
- Print page 2 (the cover) on strong paper, photo
paper or white card.
- Print the rest of the pages on good quality paper.
ASSEMBLING
- Fold each internal page separately
down the middle so that the printed sides
are facing outwards.
- Assemble the pages, with the folded center edge
outwards, into a small booklet.
- Wrap the cover around the pages.
- Either staple the spine (you will need a strong
stapler) or use a plastic binding clip available from
stationary shops.
Insert separate folded
pages inside cover page
Staple
or clip
Thanks again for your support.
Alan James, September 2005
PROBLEMS
Fasten with a large stapler,
- With some printers (especially HP) it is difficult
or a plastic sliding clip
to get the pages to centre properly. Check the
ROCKFAX web site
www.rockfax.com/miniguides/help.html for a solution to this problem
Lofoten
Classics
The
The Svolvaer
Svolvaer Goat
Goat
Festvågveggene
Festvågveggene
Gandalfveggen
Gandalfveggen
Presten
Presten
Sjøsvaet
Sjøsvaet
Pillaren
Pillaren
Pianokrakken
Pianokrakken
Svenskeveggen
Svenskeveggen
Bouldering
Bouldering
ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.
Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2005, 2003
Colin Binks on the final exosed pitch of
Lundeclubben (E1 5b) at Festvåvegg.
Thanks to Nick Ashton for supplying original route,
camping and travel information
ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.
Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2005, 2003
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic,
mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.
This file has been branded as belonging to the registered user of the ROCKFAX web site
shown below. The entitles the individual to free updates of the same file within the same
version number. Any illegal copying of this file by any electronic, mechanical or other
means negates this entitlement. Please help us fund more MiniGUIDEs by not distributing
this copy. Even if you think you are just printing out an extra copy for one of your friends
do you really know who your friend will give it to?
FOOTNOTE
The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right
of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this
MiniGUIDE are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on
the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard
should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that
climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and
publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to,
or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on
this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
All photos by Andy Hyslop and Chris Craggs
MiniGUIDES from rockfax.com
LOFOTEN CLASSICS
The Lofoten Islands are located off the
west coast of Norway north of the Arctic
Circle. The area is covered with inspirational mountains of perfect grey granite
in some dramatic scenery. As with many
areas the developed climbing seems
to have barely scratched the surface
of available climbable rock and yet the
established routes are already regarded
as some of the best multi-pitch granite
routes on either side of the Atlantic.
The routes included in this MiniGUIDE
are just a small selection of available
climbing in the area. The rock is generally sound with very few loose sections.
You are quite likely to bump into other
climbers on the crags described here
but the atmosphere is always quiet and
friendly with queuing virtually unknown.
The scenery and seascape are second
to none.
100km
Harstad
Narvik
Svolvaer
Goat
Melbu
Reine Slab
E-10
Bognes
Svolvær
Presten
Area
Stetind
South
Pillar
Skarberget
Moskenes
Skutvik
E-6
Bodø
Tromsø
How to get there
Flying – The flights are complex but it is quick and you can
easily arrive in a day and still get a route in. In 2004 the return
Bodø
flight cost was around £300.
The flights you will need:
UK to Oslo, Oslo to Bodø then Bodø to Svolvær.
www.wideroe.no has some online booking. The last short
flight from Bodø can be book online but it is also easy to buy a
Trondheim
ticket when you arrive in Bodø airport and availability is better
than the website would suggest. There are four flights a day
Bergen
Another option on the Bodø to Svolvær section is to get the
Oslo
'fast' ferry. This takes about 3 hours but you need to get
Stockholm
from the airport to the ferry port. Ferry times are at ovds.no/
engelsk/timetable/
Göteborg
From Svolvær airport you can get a bus into town - 40NOK
(about £4) and then a bus to Henningsvær. If the bus times
don’t match up too well and you are on a mission to get your first route in a taxi will cost
around 400NOK (£40).
Bus time tables - www.svane.net/lofoten/lofotbussen.htm
Driving - It is obviously handy to have a car when you get there and it gives you the
option to bring a lot of gear and supplies, but the journey does take around 20 hours
driving from Oslo, and a solid 2 days from Bergen. The ferry from Newcastle costs about
£350 each way for a normal-sized car and takes around 24 hours. www.fjordline.com
More print and PDF publications from
Car Hire - There is a 'Rent a Wreck' in Svolvær. Lofoten Bruktbilutleie +47 760 80125
Registered to Mark Catt
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Version 2.1 - Sep 2005
1
REF 29e1d02c
LOGISTICS
BRITISH TRAD GRADE
Symbol Key
(including poorly protected routes)
A good route
Norwegian
UIAA USA
LOGISTICS
When to Go
Sport
Grade
Any time from May to the end of August. Give the Klatrekafe’en a call for the latest conditions +47 76 074 911. Note that there is full-on 24 hour daylight from mid May to mid July
so you might want to leave out your head torch and put in some eye shades for sleeping.
A couple of good weather sites are: www.dnmi.no/english/ or www.wunderground.com
Mod
Moderate
Diff
Difficult
A very good route
VDiff
Very Difficult
HVD
Sev
BOLD
3c
Severe
4
HS
BOLD
4a
Hard Severe
4b
SAFE
Technical climbing involving
complex or trick moves
VS
Very Severe
5a
SAFE
E1
Sustained climbing, either
long and pumpy or with
lots of hard moves
5c
SAFE
5b
SAFE
BOLD
E2
BOLD
5b
E6
BOLD
6a
5c
BOLD
E4
6a
6b
SAFE
6b
E5
6c
BOLD
6c
SAFE
BOLD
Colour-coded route number
grade bands:
E7
BOLD
SAFE
7a
E8
BOLD
7a
6+
77
7+
E9
7a
It’s probably worth getting stocked up with food in Svolvær before you head out to
Henningsvær. There is a 'Co-op', ‘Rimi’ and 'Rema' supermarket a short way down the
street opposite the dock in Svolvær. There is a good small supermarket in Henningsvær,
and a Beer shop too. Screw-fit gas cylinders are available from petrol stations at about
double the UK price. If you are driving then it is worthwhile buying some supplies in the
UK as many basic foods are about double the price. Beer is much more expensive.
Wildlife Ticks
Sea Eagles, Arctic Foxs, Dolphins, Seals, Killer Whales and Sperm Wales can all be
seen if you know where to look.
7b
E10
Useful Web Sites
8+
Site dedicated to Lofoten climbing www.svane.net/lofoten/
General Tourist Information www.lofoten-tourist.no
Online Photo Gallery www.conradscan.de/lofoten.htm
Scottish Winter Lofoten Expedition report www.scotlandonline.com
SAFE
3 - E1 to E3
4 - E4 and above
Food and Fuel
8
7a
SAFE
1 - Severe and under
2 - HS to HVS
6
8-
6c
6c
5
6-
E3
SAFE
A long reach is
helpful/essential
55+
5a
Fingery climbing sharp holds!
Fluttery climbing
with big fall potential
BOLD
4b
Hard Very Severe
6a
SAFE
BOLD
4+
HVS
BOLD
5a
Powerful moves
requiring big arms
Hard Very
Difficult
A brilliant route
SAFE
7b
SAFE
Where to Stay
The Klatrekafe’en in Henningsvær is the centre for information on Lofoten climbing and
good place to stay if you want to sleep in a bed. They serve good food. Beer is priced at
the going rate for Norway which is about £5 for 0.5 litre!
Telephone +47 76 074 911 www.nordnorskklatreskole.no
Camping
If you don’t have a car it is best to camp below Gandalfveggen. This is a good spot, close
to the major crags and supplies. Water is available from a pipe coming off the huge black
water pipe that runs through the camping! There are no toilets so please bury everything.
Walking times on the road - Presten 15 mins, Pianokrakken 25 mins, Henningsvær 30
mins. If you are travelling to this camping spot by bus or taxi ask to get out at a lay-by
just after the sign for Festvåg. If you want to be closer to town there is an area on the left
immediately after you cross the first bridge to Henningsvær.
If you have a car there are numerous camping spots including official sites at Sandvikka
and Ørsvågvær, just south of Kabelvåg - c12km north of Henningsvær and a free one at
Kallestrand - the parking for 'Paradise' (not described - see local guide). Another popular
area is the small meadow below Pianokrakken.
The camping area at Festvåg and Henningsvær in the distance
REF 29e1d02c
2
3
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Festvågveggen
CLIMBING INFORMATION
About 1km
RDO
Gear
E10
Stem
Bastesen
Boulders
50m abseil
816
Climbing in the Magic Islands
by Ed Webster
ISBN 82-993199-0-0
This book has been reprinted.
n
de
or
f
up
Dj
Pillaren
Sjøsvaet
Pianokrakken
Guide Book
15 min
A suitable rack would be:
- Set of wires, doubles to 6 and triples in
2, 3 and 4
- Cams from 0 to 4 including half sizes
with doubles from 1 to 3
- Small set of micro nuts
Other gear for long routes:
- Helmet (recommended at all times).
- Light shoes for descents.
- Double 60m 8.5mm or 9mm ropes.
- Auto-block for abseiling.
- Light waterproof jacket.
Svenskeveggen
2 around
the
corner
Presten
Winter Climbing
There has always been plenty of winter
mountaineering on Lofoten but more
recently some UK climbers have visited the area and climbed impressive
Scottish style mixed routes. The potential for climbing frozen turf is immense.
There is total darkness in December but
March and April have plenty of daylight.
Presten
Bouldering
FESTVÅGVEGGENE
Festvågvegg consists of
two crags close to the first
bridge crossed on the road to
Henningsvær. Lille (small) is
on the left and Store (big) is
on the right.
APPROACH (see map on page
4) - These crags are situated
a few hundred metres south
east of Gandalfveggen. Use
a path which leads up past a
ruined block-house via steps
on the right. This was the support for the old Henningsvær
water tank.
Festvågvegg
Gandalfveggen
HENNINGSVAER
AREA
Henningsvaer
The View from the Klatrekafe’en in Henningsvær
20m abseil
1
2
LILLE FESTVÅGVEGG
This is the crag on the left-hand side.
1 Moondance . . . . . . . . 3pc E3 5c
95m. The main pitch follows an impressive hanging groove
cutting through the top overhangs of Lille Festvågvegg. Start
3m right of the left-bounding gully.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb a crack into a slabby groove then move up
slabs to another corner which ends at a belay on top of a flake.
2) 4c, 35m. Move left into a square-cut groove until a swing
right can be made. Continue up grooves and pillars to a stance
below the final corner.
3) 5c, 30m. Climb the groove to the top and swing out right
using a hidden jug (rest). Step back left into a left-slanting
crack then go straight up to another short left-slanting crack.
Move right across the face into a easier crack which leads to
the top.
2 Gaukerisset . . . . . . . . 2pc E2 5c
45m. "Cuckoo Crack". A fine crack-line starting in the gully to
the right of the main buttress. An easy crack leads to tricky
moves right and up to gain the main crack. Climb it to the top.
FA. O-R Wiik, T Enevold June 1993
DESCENT - Walk right and find slings at the top of Gaukerisset.
A 50m abseil down here leads conveniently to the base of
Gaukerisset and time for your second route of the day .... or, if
you have had enough, scramble down the gully to find another
fixed abseil point about 25m above the base of the cliff.
FA. T Enevold O-R Wiik 10 July 1993
REF 29e1d02c
4
5
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Festvågveggene
RAI
Descent
5 min
Descent - walk off
or abseil
Two abseils,
42m and 34m
2
LOFOTEN Gandalfveggen
3
1
RDO
15 min
STORE FESTVÅGVEGG
This is the crag on the right-hand side.
1 Lundeklubben
........
2c E1 5b
80m. "Puffin Club". Reach the start by scrambling up to the
right of Store Festvågvegg and back left on an easy rake splitting the upper and lower crag to reach a saddle in the rake.
The crux second pitch can be clearly seen from here as a long
right-facing corner with a bulge at the top.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb up an easy groove then step right onto a
blunt arete. Move right again into a big right-facing corner
which is climbed to a good ledge.
2) 5b, 35m. Follow the steep corner above, passing the bulge,
and continue up a crack until it fades. Move right into another
crack which leads to a ledge. Hand traverse 3m left and climb
an easier crack to a large sloping ledge.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up and left to another ledge then finish up
the zig-zag cracks in the steep slab - see front cover.
2 Skiløperen
........
3sc E1 5b
2
30m. "The Skier". A fantastic one pitch route situtated on the
steep face around the corner from Lundeklubben. Some jamming is required low down followed by more familiar hauling
on jugs as the route gets steeper and a tricky crux passing
the roof.
3
4
1
5
FA. A Meyer, T Enevold May 1992
DESCENT - For both routes walk off easily to the right and
scramble down to reach the scree below Skiløperen.
FA. A Meyer, T Enevold May 1992
REF 29e1d02c
6
7
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Gandalfveggen
LOFOTEN Presten
GANDALFVEGGEN
Descent
This superb crag has lots of excellent moderate routes and an easy approach.
APPROACH (see map on page 4) - From the camping area, follow a path over the water pipe, and just north of a small sea inlet,
to the foot of Gandalfveggen in about 5 mins.
RDO
12
10 min
1 Gamle Rev. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2fc E1 5b
11
95m. "The Old Fox". The route follows twin grooves right of the big slanting overhang.
1) 5b, 45m. Easy rocks leads to the groove. Up this then swing left (crux) and continue up easier grooves to a large belay ledge.
2) 5b, 50m. Go up the groove behind the belay to a sloping ledge. Then climb a short thin crack on the right wall to another sloping ledge. Follow an excellent left-trending finger-crack up the slabby wall to good holds, ledges (possible stance) and the top.
10
FA. E Webster, T Enevold 1993
.........................................
1sc E1 5b
95m. "Tromsø Express". The right-hand of the shallow grooves gives another worthwhile couple of pitches with a powerful start.
1) 5b, 45m. Easy rocks trend right to below the groove which is entered by some powerful undercutting. Jam and layback this
then move right to a shallow technical groove. Up this then step left to a good stance.
2) 5b, 50m. Go up the thin cracks right of the belay, then trend right to a sloping ledge - possible stance. Climb the left-hand side
of the large flake then the left-trending finger-crack up the slabby wall to the top.
FA. H & S Nesheim 1980
3 Gollum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2c VS 4c
90m. Start left of the big boulder below the left-hand crack.
1) 4c, 40m. From the top of the boulder follow the crack-line
by fine climbing past the odd tricky move to where steep
bridging moves gain a good ledge.
2) 4c, 50m. Step left and follow the crack, grassy in places to
where it eases then climb the big flake on the right. From the
tip of this climb onto the rib then trend right easily, or better
follow the thin finger crack to the top (5a) as for the last route.
FA. A Meyer, S Nesheim 1985
4 Gandalf . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3c VS 4c
2 Tromsøekspressen
9
Slanting
Corner
8
7
6
5
4
Storhylla
95m. Start right of and behind a big boulder.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb a left-facing groove and short wall, past
slings, to a good ledge.
2) 4c, 30m. Move right 5m and pull through the juggy bulge.
Step right into a V-groove and climb to ledges - optional belay.
Make some delicate moves left across a slab into a crack-line
leading past a big ledge on the right, to a steeper section leading into the fine stance of 'The Eagles Nest’.
3) 4b, 25m. Step awkwardly right - exposed, and climb a
crack to easier grooves which lead to the top.
3a) 5c, 20m. Do battle with the roof crack of the cave - shortlived but hard work.
3
FA. A Meyer, K O Storvik, B Tollefsen (some aid) 1978
2
5 Guns 'n' Roses . . . . . . . . 2c HVS 5a
3
2
1
95m. Start below an open groove, with a tree in it, just right
of Gandalf.
1) 4c, 40m. Climb the groove to a dark-coloured bulge. Pull
up right on to the arete which is climbed via a thin crack.
Continue direct to belay underneath the bulge on Gandalf.
2) 5a, 25m. Follow Gandalf through the bulge into the groove.
Move right at its top to an excellent hand-crack which leads to
a good ledge and belays.
3) 5a, 35m. Climb up the thin crack, keeping right of the
‘Eagles Nest,’ and follow a groove/crack system to the top.
60m of
climbing
hidden
1
2
FA. (P1) T Enevold, T Seines 1993, (The main crack of P2) S & H
Nesheim 1979, (P2&3) O R Wiik, G Austrheim 1990
15mof
climbing
hidden
DESCENT - For all routes, make two abseils (42m, 34m) from
chains down slabs on the left, or walk off to the left via ledges
then scramble down a tricky gully to reach the cliff base.
1
The initial awkward crack of the classic Gandalf (VS 4c).
REF 29e1d02c
8
9
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Sjøsvaet
LOFOTEN Presten
PRESTEN
TDI
A huge crag that has everything; a short approach, many fine (and hard!) routes, perfect rock and a straightforward descent. Just
its most famous route is described here, a real class act.
APPROACH (see map on page 4) - Presten is situated approx 1km to the north of the campsite (20 mins walk) at Festvag and is
easily reached from the road by walking up from a lay-by.
30 min
1 Vestpillaren (with The Direct Start) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3sc E2 5b
480m. "The West Pillar" - a World Classic rock climb with fantastic well-protected climbing up beautiful groove systems and
cracks. There is nothing harder than well-protected E1 5b but it is very sustained and hence it deserves a toughish E2 overall. It
normally takes between 5 to 8 hours for an ascent but it has been done in under an hour.
Start 20m left of the big grassy gully, up a shallow right-slanting groove between two right trending overlaps. It is reached by a
3m left-traverse on a foot ledge - this start is often wet. NOTE - It is possible to abseil back down from the top of P4 using the
fixed belays. Above this, retreat is much more difficult. The first four pitches make a good short outing.
1) 5a, 45m. Move left into the base of the groove and climb it to ledges. Move left to a wider crack and up this to a fixed belay.
2) 5b, 40m. Continue up the groove-system directly behind the belay. Climb onto a flake/block on the left then make a tricky
move up into thin cracks which ease and lead to another fixed belay in a corner.
3) 5b, 45m. Climb the crack directly behind the belay and move into a slim groove over a small roof (1st crux). Continue up the
groove until an exit right leads into a clean left-facing corner which is followed to a fixed belay.
4) 4b, 25m. Move up and slightly right then climb a short wall and scramble up right to a fixed belay in the corner on the righthand end of the big ledge (the ledge is known as ‘Storhylla’).
5) 4a, 30m. Climb up right of a huge block, then follow its right-hand side to belay on its sharp-edged top.
6) 5a, 45m. Move up the crack above the belay to reach an elegant right-facing groove, follow this and its continuation to a large
ledge. Traverse 20m left, step down then up and up to another ledge and belay on the crest.
7) 5b, 45m. Climb the groove above with a hard moves (2nd crux) past the bulge at 10m. Move left into thin cracks which lead
into a large left-facing corner. Follow this for about 10m to a foothold stance over a small bulge - a fantastic pitch.
8) 5a, 40m. Continue by laybacking up the corner then trend right to a good stance and belay below an unmistakable right-slanting corner. This corner can be easily seen from the road.
9) 5b, 45m. Climb the sustained (and photogenic) right-slanting corner to a small ledge. Continue up cracks to easy ground and
belay on the right at a good ledge.
10) 4a, 30m. Move easily left to a corner with a detached flake in it. Climb carefully past this and then up left behind a big block
and up a groove to a good stance at its top.
11) 5a, 35m. The open groove behind the belay leads to a thin traverse right at its top. Fix a medium wire high in the corner on
the left to protect the next bit. Drop down to a ledge and make some tricky moves past a peg and right again into the exit gully.
Belay 10m up the gully to protect your second.
12) 55m. Easily up the grassy gully to the top. The exit gully is the huge dyke that can be seen from the road.
GEAR - Double 60m ropes, helmet, 10 extenders (some long ones), a full set of wires, with doubles to 6, a small selection of
micro nuts, cams size 0 to size 4, with doubles from 1 to 3, 3 x 120cm slings. Light shoes for the descent, lightweight waterproof
(just in case!) water.
Abseil back
downtheroute
Single bolt
belay
Three fixed
wires
FA. A Meyer, F T Bjornstad 1980 (the 1st 4 pitches) the upper part had already been done - see below.
FFA. H C Doseth, H Nesheim June 1979
2 Vestpillaren Original Start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2sc HVS 5a
175m. The original start provides a good alternative, though it is less fine than the Direct Version. Start up the huge grassy gully
on the right-hand side of the cliff.
1) 4a, 60m. Trend right (loose) and climb the gully to where it
eases. The grassy rock to the left may be an alternative!
2) 4b, 40m. Climb left past some loose looking flakes, along
ledges and up a shallow groove to a belay in the huge corner.
3) 5a, 40m. Climb the wide crack directly behind the belay and
its continuation by laybacking and jamming to a fixed belay a
short way below the big roof.
4) 5a, 35m. Climb to the roof then traverse left (high by
The Festvåveggs
Small lake
undercutting or low across the slab) to reach an easier groove.
Up this to the fixed belay at the top of P4 of the Direct Start.
Continue or abseil off.
Gearupona
flat ledge
1
FA. A Meyer, B Tollefsen 18 June 1978 (all the way to the top!)
DESCENT - Follow the well-worn path east along the ridge,
dropping off left to a traverse-line leading out to a col. Make a
long descent of the steep grassy gully and eventually traverse
to the right across grass slopes and scree to the small lake
below. Or trend right from the col (looking down - tricky to follow) to reach the ridge descending to the lake - cairned path.
From here a good leads down past the Festvågveggs and on to
the road. About 1 to 1½ hours.
REF 29e1d02c
Steep
grubby
approach
10
11
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Pillaren
LOFOTEN Sjøsvaet
SJØSVAET - SEA SLAB
A superb slabby face above the south shore of Djupfjorden.
The thrash up through undergrowth is not too bad if you follow
the approach description carefully and it is easily worth the
effort for the quality of climbing.
APPROACH (see map on page 4) - From parking at the end of
the causeway aross Djupfjorden, hop along the boulder beach
for 70m until just short of the power cables. Head up, trending
slightly right (poor path), looking for a scree shoot which is
directly in line with the power cables. Walk up boulders and
when they disappear dive back into the undergrowth and head
straight up to the lowest rocks. Some grass scrambling (useful
trees!) leads to a good ledge on the left at the foot of the route.
RDI
45 min
1 Solens Sønner . . . . . . . . 3c E2 5c
135m. "Sons of the Sun". Superb face and thin crack climbing.
1) 5a, 30m. Step left and follow a polished groove until it is
possible to climb up into a chimney/cleft. Step left off the top
of the huge flake, climb up then traverse right along a break to
a fixed belay (3 nuts) below a steep wall.
2) 5c, 50m. Climb the steep cracks to where it eases. Arrange
some wires on the left wall of the groove, step back down
and make a smeary traverse left and then up into a thin crack
(crux). Climb the crack until it fades (small cam) and make a
hard step right into then next crack and up to a bolt belay.
3) 5a, 30m. Follow the superb, shallow, dog-leg crack past a
bolt at its top and then trend left on face to a single bolt belay.
4) 5a, 25m. Start up the blunt arete and climb past 2 bolts to
another stance where the slab ends and the jungle starts.
DESCENT - Make 3 or 4 abseils back to the base.
FA. E Webster, O-R Wiik 16 August 1993
Abseil down to
the right of the
route line
1
Colin Binks on Solens Sønner pitch 3.
REF 29e1d02c
12
13
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Pianokrakken
LOFOTEN Pillaren
PILLAREN
Superb slab climbing situated in the beautiful valley of
Djupfjorden, the sea inlet north of Presten which is crossed by
the main road. There is a beautiful lake hidden up the valley.
APPROACH (see map on page 4) - This approach is more
complex than it looks and takes between 50mins and 1 hour.
Follow the path on the north side of the fjord to the moraine.
Cross this then 200m further on the path drops down through
a jumble of boulders (cairn) then up a broad gully between two
steep slabs. Trend left keeping another steep slab to your right
before climbing steeply to the foot of the route. It is easy to
lose the path (look for the trodden trail) after the land bridge
and the Webster guide seems to be incorrect here.
Walk off
RSI
Abseil off (50m)
or walk down to
the right
(looking in)
5 min
2
3
1 Bare Blåbær. . . . . . . . . . 3c VS 4c
170m. Start below a left-facing corner just to the right of
a prominent gully. The name means Only Billberries - a
Norwegian expression for 'a bit of a doddle'.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab and corner to a good ledge below
a steep crack.
2) 4c, 40m. Climb the superb crack to where the angle eases
and continue to a small ledge below a steep left-facing corner.
3) 4b, 40m. Follow the corner to where it gets thin, then swing
right into a crack on the face. Continue to a ledge.
4) 4b, 35m. Climb a flake in the back of a corner to where
there are few loose cobbles in the back of a crack, then pull out
right to another crack. Continue to a bolt belay.
5) 4c, 35m. The steep hand-crack above gradually gets narrower until a short traverse right can be made. Finish with a
few face moves to a fixed belay.
FA. T Hansen, I Raastad 1986
There are 2 more pitches but it is better to abseil from here.
DESCENT - 3 x 50m abseils to the right (looking in) of the
route. The second abseil goes into the big groove below rather
than staying on the slab.
Jonathan Lagoe at the end of pitch 5 on Bare Blåbær
1
3
2
EDO
10 min
PIANOKRAKKEN
This is a good crag to start on since there is a classic easy route on the west face and two well-protected moderate routes on the
south face. Also it is only minutes from the road.
APPROACH (see map on page 4) - Follow a path along the north shore of Djupfjorden for a 100m then head directly up to the
crag on a good path. If you are just going to climb Pianohandler Lunds Rute it is faster to approach on a good path from the road
just north of the cutting.
1 Pianohandler Lunds Rute. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2c HS 4c
100m. Nice climbing broken by big ledges. There are lots of possible variations, particularly in the upper section. Start on a
ledge, with some telegraph poles, below the prominent left-slanting groove.
1) 4a, 35m. Climb the corner then slabs and a short steepening to a big ledge.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb up cracks on the right then smear up a slab to reach the right end of the the 'hand traverse'. Up this to
another big ledge with assorted belays.
3) 4c, 20m. Traverse right along a fault ledges and climb through a bulge to gain a steep groove. Up this and a short jamming
crack to a good ledge - a great pitch.
4) 4c, 10m. Climb the short awkward crack (crux!) to a big ledge.
5) 4c, 20m. Climb the centre of the face to bulges then head up and left to thin cracks which give a good finale. The hnad crack
on the left gives an easier finish - 4b.
FA. A Meyer, K Skog, U Prytz 1971
DESCENT - Scramble up and left to gain the upper end of a steep gully, descend this with care - it is steep and loose.
2 Apple Cake Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1c VS 5a
60m. Start at the foot of the arete below a tree-filled corner.
1) 4c, 40m. Move easily up and left onto the arete proper which is followed through a couple of bulges (some common climbing
with Lys og Skygge). Belay at the bottom of a hand-crack.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the crack to the top - quite testing.
FA. O-R Wiik, E Webster, T Enevold, L Fagerli 13 August 1991
3 Lys og Skygge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3fc HVS 5a
55m. Starts at the foot of the ramp on the right-hand side of the south face.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the ramp then a steep fingery wall and thin cracks to a belay on the left below a roof.
2) 4c, 35m. Step left and climb the wall then the arete for 12m until a step right can be made into a groove. Up this to the chain.
FA. (P1) E Webster, T Solberg 2 August 1991. (P2) E Webster, T Enevold 3 August 1991
DESCENT - Either make a spectacular free abseil (50m) off the fixed chain (auto-block recommended) or walk off left (looking in).
REF 29e1d02c
14
15
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Svolvaer Goat
LOFOTEN Riene Slab
THE RIENE SLAB
THE SVOLVAER GOAT
A huge barrel shaped buttress right above the road, just north of the small town of Riene. Those who arrive via the ferry to
Moskenes will drive past its toe on their way north. The slab only has two routes (as opposed to the 20+ it would have anywhere
else in Europe) and both are poorly protected and have lines that are tricky to follow. Despite this - if you are in the area......!
An amazing tower of rock perched on the hillside behind the areas main town, with the two giant blocks of 'the horns' balanced
on its crest. The first ascent of The Goat in 1910 was a seminal point in the history of Norwegian climbing, in a two week period
the same team made the first ascent of Stetind on the Mainland (after sailing up the fjord to reach it!), as well as Trakta, and Store
Klokktinden on Lofoten. It is 'traditional' to jump the gap between the horns, though fortunately this isn't actually compulsory!
APPROACH (see map on page 1) - Park on the right and cross the road!
DESCENT - There is a line of bolt anchors (old and not in very good condition) that roughly follows the line of Sea Breeze, or head
left into the gully and abseil and scramble down this - usually wet!
1 The American Tourist
.......................................
3hc E3 5b
FA. T Enevold, A Bergwall, E Webster 4 August 1991
2 Sea Breeze
..............................................
2hc HVS 5a
The natural line of the slab is also bold and has a rather scrappier upper section, though there is also plenty of good climbing.
Start at the toe of the buttress on top of a fallen flake.
1) 4b, 35m. Climb direct via scoops and grooves to a stance in a shallow corner - old bolt and nut belays.
2) 4b, 35m. Keep in the same line to a loose flake then traverse left to a belay at the base of crack up the right side of a huge flake.
3) 4c, 50m. Climb the crack past an old bolt to its end then continue in the same line to a stance at the base of The Webster Arch.
4) 5a, 45m. Layback the flake (crux 5+) then move right at its top to a stance, or climb the slab on the right (5) to the same place.
5) 4c, 40m. Follow grassy grooves rightwards to a stance.
6) 4c, 45m. More grass and rock lead to a small stance at a white flake.
7) 4c, 45m. A friction slab leads to an overlap and above this things ease. Continue to ledges.
7) 4a, 50m. Easy climbing leads up a dyke to the ledges above the slab.
FA. T Enevold, L Fageri (to top of pitch 3) May 1991. Whole route E Webster, T Enevold August 1991
WHI
DESCENT
4 x 50m abseils
plus some scrambling
Upper section
very forshortened
Fine but very bold climbing (though both these routes get 5+ in the local guide) up the left-hand side of the slab - only for the
committed! Start 100m left of the flake at the toe of the slab, where there is a small grass ledge amongst the ferns.
1) 4c, 30m. Trend right via friction and the occasional flake to a stance in the base of a shallow groove.
2) 5a, 45m. Move left then climb the face before trending right to a stance at the base of a huge flake laid on the slab.
3) 5b, 50m. Climb the flake to its end then trend left across the slab before climbing to the base of a thin crack.
4) 5b, 45m. Climb straight up the blank slab (effectively unprotected) to a poor stance at a down-pointing flake.
5) 5a, 50m. Trend right via the occasional flake (poor protection) to a stance at the base of a long curving overlap.
6) 5a, 45m. Move right to the second overlap and follow the crack to stance.
7) 4a, 50m. Easy climbing leads to the ledges above the slab.
APPROACH (see map on page 1) - From the roundabout in Svolvær turn left (Signed E10/Fiskebøl) and follow this for 0.7 mile
(1.1km) to a left turn just beyond the fire station (which is on the right) into Nyveien, signed to Melkerdalen/Nybyen. Follow the
loop right and right again then turn left into Blåutindveien. Park sensibly on the left by the school/playing-field. Take a left turn
towards a quarry then almost immediately branch right on a path signed STI TRACK. Follow the path up a slab and through the
boulders into the steep gully. It weaves up this then emerges onto a shoulder, at this point bear right towards The Goat, passing a
perennial stream. Either scramble to the col or cut diagonally across the steep grass slope to the base of the Forsida Ruta - 30-40
mins from the parking - care required in the wet.
The traditional approach to The Goat has long been up the eastern gully but this is steep(er) and loose(r)!
DESCENT - From the Lower Horn use bolts in the Upper Horn to abseil into the notch (tricky take-off) reaching ledges and a second set of chains - 15m. From here make a 28m abseil to the grassy col behind the tower.
1 Rapellruta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2sc VS 4b
Fine climbing up the line of the abseil descent, steep and juggy after a tough start.
1) 4b, 28m. Struggle up the leaning groove to reach a resting ledge then step out onto the steep face on the left and plough up
the ladder of jugs following a crack-line to reach a ledge and twin bolt belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Continue up the deep groove-system on the left to
reach the gap between the horns (views!). Traverse left past a
Approaching The Goat.
fat old peg to reach the western arete of the Big Horn and climb
this to the top. Cross the gap (jump or crawl) to belay.
2 1910 Ruta . . . . . . . . . 3hc HS 5a
A great route and an astounding effort for its day; the climb
remains steep and intimidating, with an atmosphere second to
none and a finish to die for!
1) 5a, 22m. An awkward start up the right-hand groove leads to
ledges, continue up a flake and a steep juggy groove/chimney to
a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below
the shoulder.
2) 4a, 12m. Trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed
wall on a line of superb jugs to locate a good stance and twin
bolt belay round the arete.
2) 4a, 20m. Continue up the deep groove-system on the left to
reach the gap between the horns (views!). Traverse left past a
fat old peg to reach the western arete of the Big Horn and climb
this to the top. Cross the gap (jump or crawl) to belay.
FA. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910
3 Baksida . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2c VS 5a
A combination of good pitches makes for a popular outing.
1) 4a, 24m. Start as for the 1910 Ruta but keep right up a flake
then follow the groove to the notch and a good stance.
2) 5a, 20m. The diagonal crack spitting the front face of The
Goat is The West Wall Finish. The start is the crux, then continue to the notch, traverse left to gain the western arete and
finish up this to the top of the Big Horn. Cross the gap to belay
on the Little Horn.
FA. (P1) G Santesson, E Tjerneld 1938 (P2) B Bommen, B Lyche 1928
4 Englevinger . . . . . . . . 3sc E3 5c
"Angel Wings", a good hard route that sees few ascents. The
line is obvious, start down and right of the col, at a cleaner area
reached by an exposed scramble!
1) 5c, 30m. Traverse right (bolt) and climb the thin crack
before moving back left then heading direct to a good stance.
2) 5c, 35m. The thin crack in the steep groove leads to an overhang, power over this and continue to the shoulder.
3) 5c, 20m. Descend left to the foot of a steep crack, climb this,
gradually widening, to an action-packed finish.
1
2
REF 29e1d02c
FA. E Webster, A Meyer, OR Wiik 1993
16
17
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Svolvaer Goat - West Face
LOFOTEN Svolvaer Goat - North Face
RDO
YDO
40 min
40 min
Jump
(or not)
2
5
4
4
Approach path
and descent gully both
require care, especially
if at all damp
3
5
1
2
5 Forsida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3sc VS 5a
4
A great climb, often considered to be THE Lofoten classic, if you are on the island make the effort to get this one done.
1) 4a, 34m. Start at a worn area below the south west arete of The Goat. Climb a short steep wall then slant left up a rib (or the
easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay a little higher.
2) 4a, 14m. The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance.
3) 4c, 30m. Trend left to the base of the prominent crack then finger and hand-jam this, before moving right then back left to an
exit onto a slab. A little higher cross the ridge to reach the huge terrace of 'the sofa'.
4) 4c, 30m. Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split the face above. The initial wide section is awkward then
easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Up this by finger-jamming (excellent gear) to a stance on the shoulder.
5) 5a, 20m. The diagonal crack spitting the face of The Goat is the West Wall Finish. The start is the crux, then continue to the
notch, traverse left to gain the western arete and finish up this to the tip of the Big Horn. Cross the gap to belay on the Little Horn.
Old approach/descent
New approach/descent
FA. W Höyer, A Krane 1947, FA. The West Wall Finish, B Bommen, B Lyche 1928
REF 29e1d02c
18
19
REF 29e1d02c
LOFOTEN Bouldering
LOFOTEN Svenskeveggen
EFP
2 min
BOULDERING
No lower-offs on most of these
9
6
4
12
1
7
2
8
3
10 11
13
5
PARKING - 2 mins
SVENSKEVEGGEN
This small steep crag has some bolted routes and trad crack
climbs and is good for a short day. It looks a bit small from a
distance but it is actually bigger than it appears courtesy of the
hidden starts. It dries quickly after rain. Although stretching
the title 'Lofoten Classics' a bit, these routes do offer an easily
accessible work-out, and are usually quite sheltered.
APPROACH (see map on page 4) - It is situated on the
south side of a knoll, on the opposite side of the road from
Pianokrakken, and is reached by a short scramble.
1 Frøken Sverige . . . . . . 1nc E2 5c
14m. The steep cracks on the far left.
FA. S Thyr
2 Du Gamla Du Fria 1tnc E5 6b
14m. Trend right to the horizontal break then sprint direct.
FA. 'Gier', 'Rune'
3 Madelene
......
1tnc E4 6a
14m. The left-hand of the right-trending cracks and wall above.
FA. S Thyr
4 Blåval Superstar . . . . . . . hc E5 6a
14m. Start as for the next route but finish up the bold arete.
FA. P Restorp
5 Blåklokka. . . . . . . . . . 1nc E1 5b
14m. A steep right-trending crack leads to a finish up a
groove. There is a harder Direct Start just to the right.
FA. D Niels Poulsen, O-R Wiik 1989
The rest of the routes are on the right-hand side of the wall,
the bolted routes and are given sport grades.
REF 29e1d02c
6 Jammerfest . . . . . . . . 1sc E2 5c
The bouldering potential is
massive and you can find
plenty to do where ever you
look. According to those in
the know it is of very high
quality. However there are
a couple of popular areas
which are well worth a visit.
Jonathan Lagoe attempting The Roof Crack on the Presten boulders.
PRESTEN BOULDERS
This popular area gives inspirational bouldering of all standards with plenty of easier face climbing and some awesome roof problems including the most hideous-looking thin-hand, roof crack east (and west!) of Seperate Reality.
APPROACH (see map on page 4) - It is situated south along the road from Presten, at a high point in the road, and on a bend.
14m. The evil looking roof crack is a must for homesick gritstoners. Take some big gear.
FA. J Halvardsson
7 Steapstone
........
1tc 7b+
14m. The right wall of the crack and precarious ramp above.
FA. J Halvardsson
8 Project?
............
5c ?
The Presten Boulders.
14m. The centre of the wall above the left-hand crack is an
unknown quantity/project.
9 Arbetsskygg
.......
1sc E4 6a
14m. Gain the steep upper flake crack by a tough start up the
left-hand crack in the lower wall.
FA. K Petterson
0 Snickar Glädje . . . . . . 2sc E4 6a
14m. The 'classic' crack with a steep start and pumpy finish.
FA. D Gått, and an unknown Swede 1995
q Rejsfeber. . . . . . . . . . 1tc 7c
This area consists of several separate boulders situated about
1.3km west from the junction with the E10 and the Henningsvær
road. It is easily recognised by the name ‘Stem Bastensen’ written in white paint on a roadside boulder (only visible when northeast-bound). Most of the problems here have indifferent landings,
don't forget the pad.
There are a couple of boulders just north of the graffiti with roof
and arete problems. In the other direction there is a big boulder
on the boulder-beach with a telegraph pole right behind it. This
boulder boasts, in the words of Marius Morstad, “Lofoten’s best
boulder problem” (until he finds a better one!). It starts from
small finger jugs and finishes with a scary sloping mantle.
14m. The desperate wall just right of the flake crack.
FA. P Restorp
w I Rampelyset . . . . . . . 1tc 7c
14m. The right-hand crack leads to the bolted head-wall.
FA. R Caspersen, K Petterson
A 100m back south along the road a pointed white boulder can
be seen up in the birch trees (photo to the right). This area was
cleaned up by some members of the Norwegian Army under the
command of Marius. The rock is fine granite and has features
remarkably similar to Fontainebleau.
e I Rampelyset Direct . . 1tc 7c
14m. A independant start up the wall just to the right.
FA. 'Knut'
STEN BASTENSEN BOULDERS (see map on page 4)
20
21
REF 29e1d02c

Lofoten Classics MiniGUIDE

Transcription

Similar documents

Lofoten Update 2010

10 HANDKERCHIEFS, EMBROIDERED PARASOL AN INKWELL

Housel Bay - The Climbers` Club

Brosmetind, west face, Kvaløya.

Workshop Nordland 2014

RAS AL KHAIMAH EMIRATE WADI GHALILAH

nasgro - Southwest Research Institute

MARATONA DLES DOLOMITES

Climb Mt. Kilimanjaro - Healing Hands of Joy

Free entry! Free parking! Free on-site camping!

Team Captain guide

Flying the Cessna 210 - Marv Golden Pilot Supplies

Lofoten Weekend Blueprint (08a)