General vine info - Weslor Flowers Plant Nursery

ABN 98 630 853 866
www.weslorflowers.com
Wes & Lorraine Vidler
474 Whelan Road
Imbil
Queensland
4570
Telephone (07)54886923
Fax
(07)54886923
Mobile
0428832582
Email [email protected]
[email protected]
Climbing Plant Specialists
This is especially true in those
areas of the garden or landscape
that could use some perking up,
but where there is little space on
the ground to do so. Patio areas
or narrow spaces along exterior
walls of buildings can take on
new appeal with the addition of
vines.
Vines are suited to nearly any
garden style. They require
supports such as fences, trellises, arbors, and pergolas. You can
even grow them in containers wherever space is at a premium, but
you must provide them with support. They will add height and
definition to any area where you choose to locate the pots.
Perennial vines are often classified by how they cling to a support:
twining stems or petioles, tendrils, and aerial roots with adhesive
disks. The latter two can sometimes damage the surface to which
they adhere, so it's always a good idea to talk to your friendly
nursery staff, master gardener, or extension agent before you
purchase one of these vines.
Clove Currant Vine
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Twining Petioles
Twining Stem
Tendril
Adhesive Disks
Poppy Mallow Vine
There is yet another category of vines, but they don't fit the
classifications above, since they don't twine and don't have special
structures that allow them to cling. Among these are several of my
favorites: Clove Currant Vine, Poppy Mallow Vine, and Vining
Asparagus Fern.
Clove Currant Vine
Clove Currant Vine (Ribes odorata) is more well-known in Europe
than it is in the U.S. It really deserves a place in American gardens
as well. The beauty and clove fragrance of the spring blossoms
alone are reason to grow this vine, but it also bears black currants
that add interest when the flowers are gone. In late summer you
can harvest the currants for great-tasting pie or jam. You can
espalier this vine or simply let it scamper over a trellis at will. Since
it has no structures of its own to bind it to its support, a little help
from the gardener may be in order now and then. Clove Currant
Vine can reach heights of 10-12 feet and is hardy from Zone 4a
through Zone 8b.
Poppy Mallow Vine
Poppy Mallow Vine (Callirhoe involucrata) is a native vine here in
the Midwest and ranges all the way from Texas to North Dakota.
This is one vine that doesn't necessarily need artificial support. I let
it scamper through perennials and up into shrubs. It never
overpowers them and provides lovely purple-colored poppy flowers
when other perennials have spent their blooms. Hardy in Zones 3a
through 9b, the basal part of the plant sends out several vines in
random directions, with each vine up to six or seven feet in length.
Vining Asparagus Fern
An Asparagus Fern that's truly hardy in the Midwest? Absolutely!
Asparagus verticillatus is a beautiful, delicate, airy vine that looks
stunning as it weaves its way up and over an arbor. Because of its
airiness, it's a challenge to capture its beauty in a photograph, as is
certainly the case with the photo in the column to the right above.
Its hardiness has been underrated in the past and is now thought to
extend all the way from Zone 3 to 8a. Small, fragrant white flowers
grace the vine in late spring, followed by bright red berries in late
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Vining Asparagus Fern
Dense flowering habit of
Sweet Autumn Clematis
summer. It can reach heights up to 15 feet.
Sweet Autumn Clematis climbing
up into one of our Blue Spruces
Other Favorites
Clematis
Gardeners may argue over the pronunciation of the name for this
vine, but there is no argument about the fact that it is one of the
most beautiful and popular vines in American gardens. There are
over 200 known species, with more cultivars being produced every
year. The photo at the top of this article is of the cultivar 'Sprinkles'
(registered in 2001) climbing up a picket fence and into a small
apple tree in our gardens.
Clematis 'Summer Snow'
While clematis cultivars come in many beautiful colors, with both
single and double flowers, two of my favorite varieties are Sweet
Autumn Clematis (Clematis ternifolia) and Clematis 'Summer Snow'
(aka 'Paul Farges'). They are both small-flowered and white. What
they lack in flower size is more than made up by their other
distinguishing characteristics.
Sweet Autumn Clematis, as its name implies, blooms in late
summer or early fall and has sweet, vanilla-scented blossoms. Its
huge masses of flowers often hide the leaves almost entirely. One
plant climbing into a tree (see Blue Spruce at right above) can send
up vines as high as 30 feet. While impressive during the day, it's
spectacular at dusk, when blossoms literally glow against the darker
needles of the spruce.
Summer Snow shares some of Sweet Autumn's characteristics. Its
blossoms are also white, though considerably larger, and it can
climb just as high. What distinguishes this clematis from others-and what first attracted me to it--is the fact that it blooms continually
from early summer until early fall.
Perennial Sweet Pea
Wedding bouquet ivy
Clematis is generally hardy in Zones 4a to 9b, but some varieties
are only hardy in states south of our Iowa gardens.
Perennial Sweet Pea
Perennial Sweet Pea (Lathyrus latifolius) can climb up to 12 feet in
height using its tendrils to grasp any support within reach. Flowers
are white, pink and mauve. Unlike annual sweet peas, it is not
fragrant. Hardy from Zone 3 through Zone 9b, it will tolerate dry
conditions once established. I particularly value the white form
which, like Sweet Autumn Clematis, glows at dusk. In our gardens it
grows on a dark brown picket fence which offers a nice contrast to
the white flowers. It blooms from late spring until frost, a welcome
characteristic in any perennial.
If it likes its growing conditions, Perennial Sweet Pea may become a
bit of a thug. It's wise to keep a close eye on it if it starts scrambling
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Ivy winterkill
up into a shrub, as it may completely overwhelm the shrub to the
point of killing it. It also reportedly self sows to the point of
weediness, although that has never been a problem in our gardens.
English Ivy
Speaking of thuggishness, English Ivy can certainly run rampant if
given the right conditions. Luckily, in our Zone 5b garden there is
enough winterkill to render it rather docile. It has been relegated to
a ground cover, as any of its vines that venture up a wall, a tree, or
a trellis are killed by our cold winters. It climbs via aerial roots with
sticky disks that can damage exterior walls. And it doesn't flower in
our zone.
Arctic Beauty Vine
So why do I count it among my favorites? Sometimes a rather
ordinary and somewhat bothersome plant can have deep
sentimental value to the gardener who plants it. You see, I started
this ivy from a sprig in my wife's wedding bouquet 47 years ago.
English Ivy is hardy from Zone 5a through Zone 9b.
End Notes
Trumpet Vine
Vines also look good in more naturalized settings, as opposed to the
structured setting of an arbor, a trellis, a wall or a pergola. The
Virginia Creeper (left) in the photo below looks right at home
climbing up a tree trunk in our Vase Garden:
Once Old Man Winter comes
calling, the show is over...or is
it? Even in winter a trellis with
the now-defunct vines of Sweet
Autumn Clematis (background
below) continues to lend
definition and height to a snowy
patio.
Other Garden-worthy
Perennial Vines for
Temperate Zone Gardeners
(Click name for more information)
•
4
American
Bittersweet (Celastrus
scandens)
Sometimes vines can be part of a striking garden vignette even
when they're not blooming. The vines in the background of the
photo below are no longer in flower, but become a perfect foil for the
exuberant Variegated Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis
'Variegated'). Included among the vines are Virginia Creeper,
Trumpet Vine, Arctic Beauty Vine, Sweet Autumn Clematis, and
Clematis Summer Snow.
5
•
Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus
tricuspidata)
•
Climbing Hydrangea
(Hydrangea anomala)
•
Dutchman's Pipe Vine
(Aristolochia macrophylla)
•
Fiveleaf Akebia (Akebia quinata)
•
Hardy Passionflower Vine
(Passiflora incarnata)
•
Honeysuckle Vine (Lonicera
spp.)
•
Porcelain Berry Vine
(Ampelopsis brevipedunculata)
•
Silk Vine (Periploca graeca)
•
Silver Lace Vine (Fallopia
baldschuanica)
•
Wintercreeper Euonymus
(Euonymus fortunei)
•
Wisteria (Wisteria spp.)
Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Parthenocissus tricuspidata
6
Strophanthus gratis
Distictus buccinatorius
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This plant is an evergreen climber. Frost tender in the UK. May have pest
problems under glass. Vigorous climber.
It's shape is described as tall. It grows to a height of 15m and 5m in width. It
has oval foliage that is dark green. It produceslowers during
summer/autumn that are tubular in shape and red in colour.
This is a tender plant. It requires a rich and well drained soil, preferring full
sun, and a position in a conservatory, trained up a support of some sort or
trained up a wall. This plant is likely to need tying. It is susceptible to and
should be protected from whitefly and spider mites.
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A similar-looking species--Rankin's Yellow Jessamine, G. rankinii--is found in
lowcountry swamps of the Carolinas, Georgia, and Florida; however, it lacks one of
Carolina Jessamine's finest features: a sweet, dreamy, unmistakable fragrance. We
regret we can't provide a "scratch-and-sniff" component on the Hilton Pond Web site,
for the odor of Carolina Jessamine is one that should be shared with those who've never
had an encounter. It's impossible to describe the scent in words, but various folks have
referred to it as "heady," "overpowering," "intoxicating," and even "narcotic." The latter
description may have arisen because Carolina Jessamine is laden with strychnine-related
alkaloids, some of which can be quite toxic if ingested. In fact, virtually every on-line
or print reference to Carolina Jessamine warns that all parts of the plant are poisonous
if eaten, and that the sap itself can cause dermatitis. Native Americans used jessamine
extract to reduce cramping and deaden pain or as a blood purifier, but some texts warn
that swallowing even one flower can cause death by paralysis. (Hint: Keep this plant out
of your mouth.)
Light: Sun to part shade.
Moisture: Needs adequate moisture to look its best. Carolina jasmine is very drought tolerant but tends to drop leaves and look
raggedy until moisture returns.
Hardiness: USDA Zones 7-9, tolerates frost, killed by persistent freeze.
Propagation: Seed, layers and softwood cuttings.
Usage
Carolina jasmine will rapidly cover arbors, tree trunks, trellises, etc. in a season or two. This is a well
behaved vine that will stay in scale and can be used on decks and porches and on trellises near patios and
entryways. It grows well in containers and as ground cover along steep banks. Carolina jasmine is a good
candidate for low maintenance landscapes.
Features
This fast growing evergreen vine is easy to grow and readily available. Here in north Florida, the sight of
Carolina jessamine's (a variant spelling of "jasmine") happy yellow flowers is one of our first signs of spring.
The wiry reddish brown stems are flexible and inspire another common name for this vine,"poor man's rope"
(because it breaks easily so only poor men use it - uh, I guess...)
An almost identical species grows here in the southeastern United States, it is the swamp jessamine
(Gelsemium rankinii) which also has yellow flowers but unlike G. sempervirens, these are not fragrant.
WARNING
All parts of this plant are poisonous.
Swamp jessamine is a rare, twining, evergreen vine native to the extreme southeastern United
States. In late winter to mid-spring and again in the fall, clear, odorless, yellow trumpet-shaped
flowers cover this plant. Its dark green, lance-shaped leaves with rounded bases cover red-brown,
fissured to fluted stems. The leaves turn slightly yellow-green the fall. The fruit is a long, beaked
capsule and appears in the summer.
Swamp jessamine should be placed in sun to part shade in slightly acid, moist to wet soils. This jessamine will adapt to
average soils. It can become a very dense plant when grown in full sun and requires pruning to shape and keep in
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bounds. Grow swamp jessamine around bogs or water gardens or as a groundcover if kept trimmed or on trellises,
mailboxes, arbors or porches.
There are potential health concerns regarding this plant. To learn more go to
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Exposure Boston ivy
For a balanced development, it is best to
position the The Boston ivy in a partially
shady place, where it can enjoy direct
sunlight only during the coolest hours of the
day. To develop to their best, climber plants
need grates, or they can be placed near a
wall, which functions as a support.These
plants don't fear the cold weather and
therefore can be grown in the garden
during any time of year.
Generalities Boston ivy
The Boston ivy has a climber deportment. This plant in the autumn assumes
a purplered colouring; it is medium in size and can reach 20 m high. It
doesn't keep its leaves in the winter. These plants are shrubs.
Fertilization Boston ivy
Climber plants have a quick and vigorous development, let’s enrich the soil,
towards the end of the winter or in autumn, with manure or slow release
fertilizer; during the spring, once a month, we can add a fertilizer for green
or flowering plants, rich in nitrogen and potassium to the irrigating water .
Watering Boston ivy
This plant has a climber development, at times very vigorous; therefore it is
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good to remember that the more developed plants need more water
compared to the more limited specimens. Let’s avoid watering the The
Boston ivy excessively, always leaving the soil dry for a few days between
one watering and the other, therefore let’s irrigate the substratum deeply
every 2-3 weeks with 1-2 buckets of water .
Treatments Boston ivy
As the day-time temperatures rise at the beginning of the spring, it is
agreeable to practice a preventive treatment, with a wide-range insecticide,
which should be applied when there aren’t flowerings in the garden. Before
the buds become too large, it is advisable to also treat them with a widerange fungicide, to prevent the development of fungal diseases which spread
easily when there is an elevated environmental moisture.
Soil Boston ivy
These plants need a substratum with an excellent drainage.
Climate
alpine
continental
mediterranean
peat
3
2
1
sand
0
0
0
Soil
2
2
2
Cuspidaria floribunda
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Pumice
0
0
0
Bark
0
0
0
S. Organic
1
1
1
Cuspidaria rosa
Tanaecium jaroba
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Description
Cup of gold, sometimes called chalice vine, is a heavy, thick stemmed tropical liana
with large shiny leaves and large bell shaped golden yellow flowers. The thick and
woody ropelike stems branch frequently and root at their nodes, and can run for more
than 200 ft (61 m), clinging with aerial rootlets and scrambling over everything in the
way. The evergreen leaves are leathery, about 6 in (15.2 cm) long and elliptic, with
prominent lighter colored midribs and lateral veins. The flowers are truly spectacular,
shaped like a chalice, 6-10 in (15.2-25.4 cm) long, flaring open to 4-7 in (10.2-17.8 cm)
across. The five lobes of the corolla are reflexed, and each lobe is marked with a narrow
purplish brown ridge on the inside. The flowers start out yellow and turn deeper golden
as they age. They are fragrant, especially at night, with a scent reminiscent of coconut.
Cup of gold blooms intermittently through the year, but mainly in the winter dry season.
The fruits, rarely seen in cultivation, are round berries, about 2 in (5.1 cm) in diameter.
There are eight species of chalice vines, and they often are confused in
the trade. Solandra maxima is the most common species in cultivation
and vines offered as S. guttata and S. grandiflora may in fact be this one.
The differences are subtle.
Location
Solandra maxima is native to Mexico, Central America and northern
South America. Other species occur in the West Indies.
Chalice vine flowers start our yellow and turn to gold as they g
old.
Culture
Cup of gold is a fast growing vine that thrives in most any well-drained soil. It tolerates severe pruning and blooms on
growth, so it can be cut back at any time of year. This is a heavy vine, and it requires a very sturdy support.
Light: Cup of gold thrives in full sun to partial shade.
Moisture: Cup of gold grows best with regular watering, but blooms best when water is withheld. Let the vine grow f
while, producing vigorous new shoots, then withhold water until the leaves begin to wilt.
Hardiness: USDA Zones 10 - 11.
Propagation: Cup of gold usually is propagated from stem cuttings
taken in summer and rooted with bottom heat.
Usage
Cup of gold is often grown on large pergolas or trellises, or trained t
grow up the side of a house where the spectacular flowers can spill d
the walls over windows and doorways. Tolerant of salt spray and sal
soils, all the chalice vines are excellent for seaside gardens. This is a
large, rampant grower which requires plenty of space and a strong
support.
Features
A cup of gold vine once grew on this pergola at the Fairchild
Tropical Garden in Miami, Florida.
The chalice vines are related to the angel trumpets (Datura spp. and
Brugmansia spp.), and like them, have hallucinogenic properties. Th
are used in sacred ceremonies in Mexico.
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BOUGAINVILLEA INFORMATION by GORDON BRASWELL.
Gordon Braswell is a retired nursery owner who specialized in Bougainvilleas. His purpose for
developing a wonderful website on his specialty of bougainvillea was to provide enough information
about this wonderful plant so that anyone interested in growing it will have the necessary
knowledge to be successful. In a communication with Gordon, he stated
"I wouldn't be surprised if my web host folded any day now since they have loaded the pages with
useless ads --- I would be disappointed if the Information about bougainvilleas would be lost. So
incorporate as you see fit. You have my permission. "
THIS PAGE DOES JUST THAT! PLEASE ENJOY THE FRUITS OF HIS LABOR WITHOUT
POP-UP AD BOMBARDMENT. UNFORTUNATELY, IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO INCLUDE HIS
WONDERFUL PHOTOS FROM HIS ORIGINAL PAGE, BUT YOU CAN STILL SEE THEM VIA A
LINK AT THE END OF THIS PAGE. THIS PAGE WILL BE BETTER CATEGORIZED AND
INDEXED IN THE FUTURE.
INTRODUCTION: One of the beauties of bougainvilleas is the way they show off their blooms
(acutally, their bracts). In this tutorial, I will strive to give useful information about growing
bougainvillea so that you may enjoy this wonderful flowering vine.
Since my expertise is in growing bougainvillea in containers and not in the landscape, the information I provide
is centered around growing in pots, baskets and other type containers.
Bougainvillea Bloom Season in North America
Bougainvilleas' natural habitat is equatorial where day and night lengths are almost equal.
Bougainvilleas in these areas tend to bloom year round, but in North America, best blooming
occurs when the night length and day length are almost equal (in spring or fall). In winter, blooming
15
is better than in the dog days of August because of night length. Also, some cultivars are triggered
to bloom after a rainy season followed by a dry season.
Best Climate for Bougainvillea
Bougainvilleas are tropical and must be protected from frost. In Zone 8 and cooler, you are almost
limited to growing them in some kind of container unless you treat them as an Annual (plant a new
plant outdoors each year) -- which works fine if you obtain a large plant in the Spring.
Bougainvilleas thrive in full sun. At least 5 hours a day of full sunlight is the minimal light required
for good bloom. More hours of direct sun is better. Less than 5 hours and the plant may not bloom
very well. In shade or partial shade, you will have nice vegetative growth, but little or no bloom.
A Bougainvillea just doesn't bloom well indoors. If possible, keep your plant outdoors (in the
maximum sun available). If placed on a porch, patio or balcony, where the plant receives at least 5
hours of sun each day (afternoon sun is best), then it should bloom ok.
A bougainvillea likes high humidity just before it comes into bloom. Once bloom has been initated,
then it will tolerate less humidity.
Bougainvillea has two distint growth cycles:
A vegetative growth period for seveal weeks -- when new leaves and stems grow.
If the plant receives enough sunlight the plant will form buds during this time. If there is not enough sunlight,
the plant will remain in vegetative cycle.
A blooming period of several weeks when little or no vegetative growth occurs.
The length of time they will bloom is dependent upon the health of the plant and the environment they are in,
the more sun and heat, the better. However, long days and short nights (July and August in Florida) limit a
bougainvillea ability to bloom.
Choosing a Container
The image for this page is bougainvillea in a 1-gallon nursery container. I have successfully grown
bougainvillea in a 1-gal pot for 3 years or more, so don't rush to repot - the plant will bloom better
when pot-bound. It is important that you don't place the pot directly on the ground -- in one summer
the roots will grow down into the soil and roots will be damaged when you lift the pot -- all the
feeder roots will be left in the ground. I always place a container on something other than the
ground. Air will prune the roots and they won't grow out of the holes in the bottom of the pot.
Drainage is Essential
Notice the saucers on the pot and also on the hanging basket. If you use these type containers, I
strongly recommend that you take the saucer off -- you will damage bougainvillea roots if the plant
stands in water or the water can't drain completely from the pot.
Try all kinds of Containers
Generally, bougainvillea can be grown in anything that will hold soil and allow proper drainage.
Some of the more traditionally used containers include terra cotta (clay) pots, plastic pots, hanging
baskets, wire baskets lined with sphagnum moss or fibrous liners, concrete planters, planter boxes,
16
whiskey barrels, 5-gallon buckets, tubs, and bushel baskets. Some of these containers are more
durable than others are.
Don't limit yourself to the traditional when it comes to choosing a container. Be creative! Choosing
a container that fits the look you are trying to create is half the fun of growing bougainvillea in
containers!
Some self-watering containers have been manufactured to improve drainage and also have built-in
reservoirs for watering plants. It is important to remember that a bougainvillea does not tolerate
standing in water. Whatever container you choose, consider these tips:
•
Drainage: Bougainvillea must have it.
•
Insulation: Avoid using black containers in full sun.
•
Large enough:The container must be large enough to hold the minimum amount of soil required for mature
plants to grow in.
•
Weight: Will it be too heavy to move? Styrofoam peanuts can be used in the bottom of the container rather
than filling it fully with soil mix.
Soil suitable for Bougainvillea
Bougainvilleas will thrive in almost any soil as long as it is well-drained and fertile. Soils that work
for other plants you grow will be fine for your bougainvillea.
It is important to select a growing medium that drains well but that will also help keep plants from
drying out between waterings. Keeping containers moist yet well drained is the most important key
to successful bougainvillea culture in containers.
To grow beautiful bougainvilleas a number of cultural actions are required. Among these, perhaps
the most important is the type of growing medium used. Due to the relatively shallow depth and
limited volume of a container, growing media must be amended to provide the appropriate physical
and chemical properties necessary for plant growth.
Field soils are generally unsatisfactory for growing bougainvillea in containers. This is primarily
because soils do not provide the aeration, drainage and water holding capacity required. To
improve this situation several "soilless" growing media have been developed.
The best growing mixture is one that is soilless. Soilless media are free of any disease pathogens,
insect pests, and weed seeds. They are also generally lightweight and porous, allowing for a welldrained yet moisture-retentive mix. Premixed growing media are available from garden centers.
However, be careful not to use peat or peatlite mixes alone. By themselves, these media tend to
become compacted, too lightweight, and hard to wet. My greatest problem with peat/peatlite mixes
is when the soil dries completely, the rootball will pull away from the side of the pot, and it is almost
impossible to completely wet the soil again -- the water simply runs down the side of the container
and drains out the bottom. If your plant dries out and you use this type of mix, to rewet it, let the pot
sit in a pail of water until the soil ball is completely wet.
Mix your own soil
You can create your own blend of soil mix by using peat moss, vermiculite or perlite, sterile potting
soil or composted soil mix, and coarse builder's sand. Note: Ph of the soil is very important. If you
mix your own soil, then you should consider the following: Bougainvillea prefer a pH in the 6.0 to
6.5 range.
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Some commercially prepared growing mixtures have an added wetting agent which is a great help
when it comes to planting and watering. You may also consider adding water-absorbing polymers
or "gel" that absorbs and retains up to 400 times its weight in water. Polymers are nontoxic and last
for a number of years before breaking down in the environment.
Here is the mix I used in my nursery for bougainvillea:
70% Horticultural peat moss
20% Pine Bark (old bark) - In North Flordia, pine bark is a cheap and readily available ingredient.
10% River Sand.
The amount of lime added was always based on soil testing and it varies.
A commonly used soilless mixture:
1 part garden soil (not clay)
1 part washed builder's sand, perlite, or pumice
1 part horticultural peat moss
1 quart steamed bonemeal per bushel (8 gallons) of mixture
1 pint dolomite lime per bushel of soil mix
Mix all ingredients thoroughly by shoveling them from one pile to another at least three times.
Pulverize any large lumps or clods as you mix. When thoroughly mixed add sufficient water to
moisten the mixture and store in a sheltered spot until you are ready to use it. A garbage can,
wastebasket, or large bucket makes a handy storage container.
This general potting mixture provides a suitable growth medium for most container plants, including
vegetables, bedding plants, geraniums, begonias, fuchsias, and ivies. But, for bougainvillea I found
that the 70%peat, 20%pine bark and 10%sand with the amount of dolomite lime always depending
upon soil testing -- however, you should be able to use the above mixture with excellent results for
your bougainvillea.
Before using your mix to repot plants, be sure it is damp. Totally dry soil mixture is difficult to
handle and may damage tender roots before the plant is watered.
Sterilizing Soil
It is normally unnecessary or even undesirable to sterilize potting soils. Garden soils contain
millions of living organisms beneficial to the soil. They only rarely contain disease organisms that
might damage your houseplants. Young seedlings during the first 2 to 4 weeks of growth are the
most susceptible to attack by soil-borne disease organisms. To prevent damping off disease on
seedlings, it may help to heat treat the soil used for seedling production.
The easiest method of home soil treatment is with oven heat. Place the container of soil in the oven
and bake until the center of the mix is 140°F for 30 minutes. Use thermometer to check. A
microwave oven also may be used.
Table 1. Commonly used soilless mixtures.
Volume/Volume Ratio
Components
2:1
Peat, Perlite
2:1:1
Peat, Perlite, Vermiculite
3:1:1
Peat, Perlite, Vermiculite
2:1:1
Peat, Bark, Sand
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2:1:1
Peat, Bark, Perlite
3:1:1
Peat, Bark, Sand
Bougainvillea roots are fragile
A bougainvillea has a weak root system and will bloom best when the roots complelely fill the pot.
Repotting Bougainvillea
A bougainvillea blooms best when pot-bound. So, do not be tempted to repot unless you must. I
have found that it is best to leave the plant in its original container until the roots have replaced all
of the soil and you can't keep the plant well watered. For example, it is not unusal to grow a
bougainvillea in a 1-gallon pot for 3 or more years.
When it is necessary to repot remember that a bougainvillea has a very delicate root system and a
fragile root to stem connection. Handle bougainvillea with care.
I do not recommend root pruning when you repot your bougainvillea - in fact, disturb the roots as
little as possible because the plant might go into shock and take weeks to recover. For this reason,
you should always pot into a larger container than the old one. For example, if the plant has been
growing in a 6-inch pot, then you should report into a 8-inch pot.
When repotting bougainvillea remember that it loves to be pot-bound, so pot into the smallest
container available for the purpose you desire.
Fertilizer is Essential
The image for this page is bracts of a bougainvillea glabra. When bougainvillea is healthy, all parts
of the plant - stems, leaves and bracts will be glossy colored and show signs of vigor. Roots will be
white. Underfed bougainvillea will look the opposite.
Cultivating bougainvilleas is an enjoyable and rewarding experience. The basic culture is not
difficult and most plants require only a few minutes of attention each week once the basic
environmental requirements are satisfied. They do, however, require this minimal care on a regular
basis. Plants are living things and must be managed so that their life-support systems are
continuous.
Feeding Your Bougainvillea
You must feed your plant with a balanced fertilizer, either dry or water soluable. The key is
balance. 20-20-20 with minor elements works fine. For the last few years, I have used 15-5-15 camg with chelated Iron as my primary fertilizer, If you know the ph of your water and the ph of your
soil, you can tailor a specific fertilize program. It is very important that the nitrogen source of
whatever fertilize you use is from calcium nitrate. (Urea and ammonium nitrate both have caused
me problems when feeding Bougainvillea) Note: Peters 20-20-20 or Miracle-Grow will work just
fine.
Plants growing in containers have a limited volume of soil from which to extract the mineral
nutrients (fertilizer) needed for growth. The supply of nutrients in the containers becomes
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exhausted rapidly if the plant is actively growing. Replenish nutrients regularly. The easiest way is
to water the plants with a solution of soluble fertilizer.
Many totally soluble fertilizers are available in most garden stores. Since they vary in strength
(percent of fertilizer nutrients), dilute or dissolve them in your watering can according to the label
directions. Mix only enough of this fertilizer solution to water your container plants once each time
you fertilize. Fertilize your bougainvilleas regularly with a soluble fertilizer. During the long days of
the year (Easter to Thanksgiving) when they are actively growing, fertilize about every other week.
Feed less in Winter
During the short days of the year (Thanksgiving to Easter) fertilize only every 4 to 6 weeks. If the
plants are totally dormant (no leaves or buds), do not fertilize until new growth starts.
Fertilizer tips
•
Slow or timed release fertilizers are an acceptable and desirable way to fertilize bougainvillea. Follow label
directions.
Plants grow best with small amounts of nutrients available to them constantly.
•
Do not apply fertilizers to dry soil.
Do not overfertilize. More is not better. Plants can be killed. It's better to underdo than overdo.
Both organic and synthetic fertilizers are acceptable sources of plant nutrients.
Bougainvillea Nutrient/PH Requirements
A bougainvillea requires Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium and Iron plus all
the minor elements. But, unless the ph of your soil isn't in the proper range, then tons of fertilizer
won't help. So when I say the ph of the soil is important -- it is! Look at the chart below: ph 6.5 is
the point where most elements are available.
PH Bar Graph
This bar graph gives the pH ranges at which plant nutrients will be most available. The wider the
bar, the more available the nutrient. Calcium, magnesium and potassium--the exchangeable
bases--are most available at high pH and unavailable at low pH. Nitrogen and sulfur have similar
available pH ranges. Iron, manganese, zinc, and copper are less available at high pH values.
Phosphorus and boron are unavailable at both low pH and high pH.
Fertilizer Elements
Packaged fertilizers are required by law to have the percentages of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P),
and potassium (K) printed on the bag. You will see 10-10-10 or 25-15-30, etc. The numbers
represent the percentage of each nutrient in the product, first number is for nitrogen, the second for
phosphorus and, the third for potassium.
Many chemical fertilizers will also contain trace elements and minor nutrients (minerals such as
calcium, iron, magnesium, etc.), all of which are necessary in very small amounts for good plant
growth. The label will list the percentages of these microelements as well.
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For a bag of fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10, the customer knows that 30% of the bag is actual
fertilizer, 70% will be fillers or a "carrier." It makes good economic sense to buy the product with the
highest total percentage but remember you must know your plants' needs first. If the percentage is
higher read the instructions carefully since you may need to apply LESS than the manufacturer
recommends!
Nitrogen provides growing power and makes plant leaves and stems green.
Nitrogen is used to form basic proteins, chlorophyll, and enzymes for the plant cells. In short, a
plant can't grow without it.
Your plants use the nitrate or nitric form of nitrogen immediately because they're soluble. But overwatering can wash them away. The ammonium types of nitrogen will take from two weeks to three
months for the plant to use, but won't leach out of the pot.
When using fertilizers, check the package to see which kind of nitrogen you're getting. The "N"
number of the "N-P-K" formula will tell you the percentage of nitrogen, by weight, in the mix. A
"quick release" fertilizer will contain nitrates so your plant can use them right away. "Slow release"
indicates the ammonium form of nitrogen. Ammonium nitrate is actually a half-and-half mix of nitric
oxygen (quick release) and ammonium nitrogen (slow release).
When fertilizing, remember that too much nitrogen can be as bad as too little. Plants can suffer
nitrogen burn or grow so much foliage that they never flower.
Phosphorous stimulates budding and blooming.
Plants need phosphorus to produce fruits, flowers, and seeds. It also helps make your plants more
resistant to disease. Phosphorus doesn't dissolve like nitrogen. The soil will hang onto phosphorus,
not releasing it into water.
If you're looking for good sources of phosphorus, check the ingredients of any plant food you buy.
The "P" number of the "N-P-K" formula will tell you the percentage of phosphorus, by weight, in the
mix. You should also look for ingredients like bonemeal, colloidal phosphate, or rock phosphate.
You may also see superphosphates, a more soluble form of phosphorus. Be careful with these:
Overfeeding with superphosphates can actually create phosphorus deficiencies because they
wash away too easily (the perils of a "quick fix").
Potassium promotes strong vigorous roots and resistance to disease.
Potassium is a nutrient your plants need for good internal chemistry. Plants use potassium to
produce the sugars, starches, proteins and enzymes they need to grow and thrive. Potassium also
helps your plants regulate their water usage, and better withstand the cold.
Other Microelements
Your plants need certain trace elements and nutrients to make the best use of soil, water, and air.
An important thing to remember about trace minerals is that plants can't always use the most
common forms. If your garden store supplies them, get the chelated forms of the trace minerals.
Chelated minerals have already gone through the chemical changes that make the minerals usable
to your plants. Magnesium (Mg) and Iron (Fe) are the "chlorophyll helpers." They're both important
21
to the plant's production of chlorophyll. Magnesium, in fact, makes up the core of the chlorophyll molecule.
Dolomitic lime and epsom salts are good sources of magnesium. To supply your plants with iron, try
spraying liquid seaweed or chelated iron.
Calcium (Ca) and boron (B) are essential for proper water uptake, and both are important for
proper cell formation. Calcium is present in gypsum, lime, and oyster shells. Boron is available in
borax and a chelated boron spray.
Sulfur (S), zinc (Zn), and manganese (Mn) are the "catalysts" that help other nutrients such as
nitrogen become usable by your plants. Gypsum and flowers of sulfur are good sources of sulfur.
The others are available in chelated form, usually as a spray.
Don't worry -- remember, all of the above can be found in ready made mixes such as peters or
miracle-gro.
Deficiency signs:
Nitrogen deficiency: Older leaves turn a pale green and the veins are usually a reddish color. New
growth will be stunted.
Phosphorus deficiency: The veins will turn red to purple and the plant as a whole will look purplish.
Potassium deficiency:
Causes the edges of older the leaves to be a purple color and the leaf tips will be a brownish color.
Magnesium deficiency:
First appears on older leaves where they turn a spotted yellow or tan color.
Zinc deficiency (rare):
Will look almost like magnesium but here the leaf will be twisted.
Iron deficiency (always one of my greatest problems):
Young growth is stunted and pale -- you'll know its iron if the veins on the leaf remain green.
Calcium is another element that I always had to supplement because of the sweetness of my
water...
When it is deficient, dead areas appear in young growth and the tips soon die.
How often to Fertilize
I prefer to feed each time I water, but you can fertilize weekly, bi-monthly, or every other time you
water. If you do it each time you water, use 200 ppm (about 1 tablespoon of 20-20-20 water
soluable fertilizer) per gallon of water. If you feed less often, then increase the amout to 400 ppm (2
tablespoons per gallon
Watering Your Bougainvillea
A healthy bougainvillea in a container, especially in a hanging basket, will drink a lot of water
during the warm times of the year. In cooler periods or when you bring your bougainvillea indoors
for the winter, the water requirement will be much less.
I am often asked the question - How much water? I always have to answer with it VARIES: It
varies with the soil type, the root system, the size of the plant, and the air temperature.
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Soon after potting up, the plant may be happy with one soaking a week. After the roots have
developed, the same plant may require water daily.
My Rule of Thumb about watering a Bougainvillea
No plant should be watered if it doesn't need it. Likewise, a plant which needs water MUST be
watered immediately. Over watering is as harmful as Under watering.
I try to inspect my plants daily and experience has taught me to know the sign of a Bougainvillea
when it is about to wilt. Try to learn from the plant, and give it a good soaking just before it reaches
the wilt stage.
General information about watering all container plants
Watering is the most important (and most often abused) cultural practice. Bougainvilleas must have
a continuous and adequate supply of water, but they can only absorb water from the soil under
certain conditions. First, there must be a supply of water in the soil. The soil particles hold a certain
amount of water too firmly for the plants to take. The water supply available to plants is water in
excess of that required to satisfy the soil itself.
Second, some air must be in the soil for the plant roots to function and absorb water. Therefore,
the soil must not contain so much water that no room is left for air. A good potting soil will not hold
too much water if a hole in the bottom of the container allows excess water to drain away.
The difference between these two extremes is called the available water supply. Proper water
management is a watering program that avoids both extremes and maintains a supply of available
water at all times. The following guidelines may help you establish a satisfactory watering
schedule.
•
Use a well-prepared potting soil for planting. This assures a good water-retention capacity in the soil as well as
space for oxygen that plant roots must have.
•
Always have a drainage hole in containers so excess water can drain away. This will prevent overwatering.
•
When watering, use enough water to run out the drainage hole. This usually assures you that you have
"replenished" the available supply and reduces salt buildup. Do not allow pot to sit in excess water. Pour it
away or raise the pot on shims so it is always above the level of drained-out water in the saucer.
•
Do not water on a time schedule.
Allow the soil in the pots to become dry on the surface before you water again. This maintains a good balance
of air and water.
•
If some plants require frequent watering, move them into slightly larger pots (with correspondingly larger waterholding capacities).
•
Some plants like desert cacti and succulents should be watered very cautiously during the short days of the
year. With the exception of seedlings and very young plants, no water is necessary from about mid-November
to mid-March.
•
•
Highly organic soils are difficult to re-wet once they dry out. They also tend to shrink away from container
sides, allowing water to run down and out the drainage holes without actually moistening the soil. In this case
submerge the entire pot in water until the medium is fully moistened.
•
Flush soluble salts from pots on a regular basis, say every 6 months.
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•
Chlorine in tap water will not harm plants.
•
Fluoride in tap water can damage sensitive plants.
Bougainvillea is NOT frost Hardy
This plant requires winter protection. A bougainvillea may be killed if the temperature remains
below freezing for 4 hours. A light frost will not kill the plant, but within a day after the frost, all the
leaves and bracts will fall off. In this case, the plant will regrow if not subjected to more frosts for
longer duration.
Winter Protection for Bougainvillea
It is not unusual for a bougainvillea to be full of bloom when it comes time to move it indoors for
winter. Almost immediately after bringing a plant like this (full of bloom) inside, all the bracts will fall
off and most of the leaves will eventually fall off as well. I recommend that you do a hard prune
before moving it indoors
Why I recommend a "Hard Prune" Bougainvillea is a vine and new growth (after a prune) starts one or two leafbuds below the cut and not up and
down the entire branch. By doing a "hard" prune, next spring, when the plant regrows it will be fuller from the
base up. Most reference to pruning bougainvillea I have found on the web is applicable more to nonvining
plants where new branches grow up and down the stem after a pinch -- vines or climbing plants tend to grow
only one or two branches from the leafbuds just below the cut after pruning.
If you like the shape of your plant now, then you may not even want to prune before moving it indoors. Next
spring it will hold the same shape, just grow larger. But, if is not quiet the shape you desire or is overgrown,
then it is best to do a hard prune.
If you have planted your bougainvillea in the soil outdoors and want to dig it up and move it indoors
for the winter, expect the plant to go into dormancy sooner than if it had been in a container -- the
root damage as a result of digging will be the cause rather than the cool weather -- but the plant
should survive this kind of transplanting.
Where to place your bougainvillea while indoors
Any space which doesn't freeze will be fine for your bougainvillea while indoors. If you put your
plant in a high light area which remains warm during the winter nights, it may not go into dormancy
and will be in better shape once Spring comes. If the spot you have doesn't have much light and
stays cool during the day, then expect the plant to go into dormancy.
I received an email from a long time bougainvillea grower who puts his bougainvillea in the garage
just before the first frost/freeze, waters just enough to keep the roots from drying out and then
when the nights warm in the Spring, moves his bougainvillea back outside.
While indoors, domancy may occur
After a few weeks indoors bougainvillea may go into domancy and all the leaves will fall off. While
indoors, water very little, just keep the soil slightly damp.
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When Spring returns
After the nights warm in the Spring, move your bougainvillea outside and start watering and
fertilizing. In a few weeks, new growth should appear and soon bloom should start again.
A Greenhouse is Nice
If you have a greenhouse, then your bougainvillea will reward you with bloom all winter. You
wouldn't have to prune as above - just move the plant from outside into the greenhouse.
If you are interested in a hobby greenhouse, check out the Hobby Greenhouse Association.
Propagating Bougainvillea is Fun
So many of the bougainvilleas being cultivated today resulted in what we call a "bud" sport (a stem
that is different than the other stems of the mother plant). To reproduce this bougainvillea - asexual
propagation is required - rooting a cutting. Below I explain how to do this.
Ways for Propagating Bougainvillea
Bougainvillea may be propagated by seed, cutting, laying or tissue culture. It is commonly believed
that bougainvillea hybirds are sterile and only the species may be propagated by seed. I am still
researching this and will be updating as required
I will only discuss propagating by cutting here. You may root bougainvillea by either "hardwood"
"softwood" or "leaf bud" cuttings. If you would like to try rooting in late spring or early summer (or
as long as night temps remain 55 degrees or warmer), it is best to use softwood cuttings. If you
want to root during fall and winter (when night temps are cooler than above), hardwood cuttings will
probably work best.
See Plant Propagation Methods for more information about asexual propagation methods.
Rooting Environment
Commerical growers usually use either mist or fog to root their bougainvillea. For home rooting, a 3
or 4" pot filled with sandy peat covered with something like a plastic sandwich bag and placed in
shade should work. Keep the soil moist during the rooting period. Your object is to maintain a very
high percent of humidity around the cutting until roots strike. Softwood cutting 'stuck' in May or
early June should be rooted by the end of August. Hardwood cuttings will usually take 3 or 4
months.
A plastic bag alone can serve as a propagation environment. Simply place some moist propagation
medium in the bottom of the bag, insert the cuttings, and tie the top of the bag closed.
Special tips
For bougainvillea, the tip cutting doesn't work very well. The soft leaves in the tip are subject to
various diseases and rot often occurs when using this type cutting. Additionally, once rooted, only 1
stem will grow and pinching will be required to initiate more stem breaks. You may use the tips, but
I always discard the tips (throw them away).
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For bougainvillea, the sub-terminal cutting has always worked best for me. This type cutting is
stronger and will ward off disease problems. Also, new stems will usually grow from each leaf bud
and less pinching is required to obtain a nicely branched bougainvillea when using this type cutting.
If you don't have enough stem material to root, you may use a leaf-bud cutting l but you should
have better rooting percentages using the sub-terminal cutting .
Pruning and Pinching
By pinching I mean, cutting off a part of the plant stem(s). With bougainvillea, we use the terms "soft" pinch and "hard"
pinch - below I will try to explain these methods of pruning.
Pruning Bougainvillea
Unless you stop a vine like this, it will continue to grow outward. You must pinch in order to
promote a more bushy plant.
Soft Pinch
A soft pinch is removing the "soft" or tender tip of new growth from a branch.
A soft pinch is used most often on young tender stems to promote side shoot branching. Most
bougainvillea cultivars will send out 1 or 2 new stems after a pinch -- from the leaf-buds just below
the cut.
Hard Pinch
A hard pinch is removing most of a branch from the plant.
A hard pinch is taken when you want to control the growth of stems which have gotten out-of-hand
(to maintain the shape you desire) or any time you want to obtain a bushy form. For hanging
baskets, I always cut back hard at least once a year (it doesn't harm the plant to cut back hard after
each bloom cycle)...this always helped the plant bush out wonderfully.
When to pinch
Bougainvilleas may be pruned at any time of the year. Bloom initiation does not depend upon
pruning - a bougainvillea has a bloom cycle followed by a rest period whether pruned or not.
Young plants should be pinched often to produce a bushy large plant. Most bougainvillea cultivars
tend to grow without producing side shoots.
I always soft pinch out the tip of any "liner" (baby plant) that I am potting up, then 4 or 5 weeks
later, soft pinch out the tips of all stems on the plant. If the plant hasn't filled out after another 4 or 5
weeks, I pinch it again. Some cultivars will branch better than others. Do not be afraid to pinch a
bougainvillea -- the more you do the better the plant will branch.
If I want to grow a "Standard" bougainvillea, then I do not pinch (see section about how to grow a Standard).
After you have a bushy plants, it is best to prune for shape. For container bougainvillea, I perfer to
prune all my pots or baskets back to the edge of the container after blooming has stopped. This
keeps them compact and causes a beautiful basket or pot to be a spectacular sight the next time
they bloom. Prune your bougainvillea and you'll be rewarded for the effort.
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When to "hard" prune
I recommend that you should do a hard prune when you need to contain growth or when you are
preparing to move your bougainvillea indoors for the winter . The "Soft Prune" isn't recommended
for bougainvillea (or any vine type plant) UNLESS you are trying to obtain a special form, such as a
espalier or you want a bushier plant . When new growth appears, the plant will be top heavy and
completely out of form.
Bougainvilleas love to be grown in a hanging basket
To grow a basket you MUST prune often. This started as one small liner. Two years later, it was
well shaped with branches radiating from the center of the basket outward in all directions. This is
2-1/2 years after planting. Even a basket or winter protection indoors, I recommend a hard prune
when you move it indoors for the winter. (You don't have to do this, but it is difficult to manage a
basket like this indoors during the winter without cutting it back hard.)
Growing a Bougainvillea Basket
I like to start with a 10-inch hanging basket similar to this. Use whatever type you have or like. A
bougainvillea grows well in this cheap plastic type. If grown properly, the basket will be hidden and
doesn't serve a decorative function when the plant is in bloom.
For Bougainvillea, I do not recommend using wire-frame baskets that require liners.
Bougainvilleas in baskets are long-term and pretty rugged plants for this type basket.
Most small bougainvillea on the market for retail customers will be in 4" pots or even 1-gal
containers . Immediately on planting - I remove the tip (pinch out the tip). Then about 4 weeks
later, I pinch out the tips of the new branches resulting from the initial pinch. Again, in about 4
weeks, I remove all the tips from all the new growth resulting from the second pinch. Usually, this
will be enough to get the plant branching similar the the image below. If you can obtain a plant in
a 6-inch pot then you gain about 6-8 months over the liner size plant.
A basket of full size may be grown in one season (May, June and July) if you start with a plant
such as the 6-inch This is assuming that you plant the 6-inch pot plant into the basket no later
than March 15th and pinch out the tips. If you start with a small liner then it will take at least 2
growing season to reach full size.
Notes about pinching/pruning
A bougainvillea, like most vining type plants, will continue to grow outward without sending out side
branches from each leaf-bud point unless the stem is pinched. If you want one long stem, then
don't pinch out the tip. But for hanging baskets, the form desired requires pinching. By pinching out
the tip, most bougainvillea cultivars will send out new stems from 2 to 3 leaf-buds (usually only 2)
below the cut. So it is important when growing a basket, not to wait for the branches to grow very
far beyond the basket edge before you remove all the tips -- otherwise, the growth will be bare in
the center of the basket and the growth will be mis-shaped and not very attractive.
Bougainvilleas are highly suitable for Standards
The above images show a single-stem standard and a 3-stem standard. Bougainvilleas are perfect
for training either way. Note the highlighted area in the Barbara Karst image. Start your multi-stem
standards just above the soil line and allow 2, 3 or even 4 canes to grow.
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Growing a Bougainvillea Standard
The most critical part of creating a bougainvillea standard is forming a strong, straight stem. Line
up the stake next to the stem, and push it down into the soil to the bottom of the pot. During the
growing period, most people use twist-ties to secure the stem to the stake every few inches . For
display, the twist-ties may be replaced with raffia or ribbons. Tie the stem to the stake at several
places. Don't twist too tightly -- the stem needs space to grow. If the stem is slightly bent, you may
have to twist the tie more firmly to hold the stem in place until it "adapts" to its new form. Make the
twist on the stake side -- not on the stem side -- to avoid damaging the stem.
Bougainvilleas generally look better at 3 or 4 feet tall.
I used to remove all foliage from the stem as soon as I could, but this slowed plant growth--there
wasn't enough leaf surface to photosynthesize food for the plant. It is best to wait until you start
forming the head to remove foliage and thorns.
When the stem is within a few inches of the height you want your mature standard to be, pinch out
the growing tip (inside the rectangle area in image). Now is the time to remove the thorns, leaves
and any lateral shoots from the stem.
Keep pruning to encourage branching, Use a soft pinch (see Pruning/Pinching if you don't
understand what a soft pinch is) after branches have 4 leaf nodes, then soft pinch these when each
branch has two leaf nodes.
It is possible to grow a bougainvillea standard within 2-3 years. A good stake is needed until the
trunk is thick enough to support the crown -- this may take several years.
Botanical Bougainvillea
Nyctaginaceae
The following information is provided to help understand more about bougainvillea.
Scroll through the page or jump to the following sections:
Bougainvillea Species
Hybird Groups
Variegated Bougainvillea
New Bougainvillea from Seed
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
Link To List of Technical Writing about Bougainvillea
Return to Bougainvillea Info Main Page
Bougainvillea species
Bougainvillea glabra -- It is thought that this climbing evergreen member of the family was first
identified by Choisy about 1850.
•
LEAVES are elliptical in shape and usually display a glossy sheen. May be green or variegated. Basically it is
glabrous, but you may find some puberulence.
•
28
•
BRACTS come in many different sizes and shapes. Usually they are triangular in shape and the colors are in
shades of purple or mauve. White is also common. The bracts tend to appear all along the branches and at the
tips.
•
THORNS are small and curved at the tips.
•
FLOWERS are white to cream colored.
•
HABIT is usually spreading and the green leaf types are fairly fast growing. Blooms several times a year.
•
REMARKS: When grown from seeds, B. glabra may show more variation in size, bract shapes, color than the
other species, but the colors are pretty much in the mauve-purple shades or white. It should be noted that B.
glabra and B. spectabilis are very much alike in general appearance, the main differences are the bloom cycle
and glabra is hairless while spectabilis is hairy. Both species may show wide variations in sturcture when
grown from seed.
Bougainvillea peruviana -- It is thought that this climbing evergreen member was first identified by
Humbolt around 1810. This species is noted for its green colored bark.
•
LEAVES are strongly ovate and hairless. Usually they are long and thin.
•
BRACTS are magenta to pink and rounded. They may have some distortion or wrinkling.
•
THORNS are short and fairly straight.
•
FLOWERS are yellow.
•
HABIT is lanky with nice green leaves. Not as vigorous as some hybirds but requires pruning to promote
branching. May bloom several times a year if allowed to experience a dry period between flushes.
•
REMARKS: B. peruviana is the most stable species and there is little variation in the general shape of bracts
and leaves from seeds. A representative plant of this species might show long branches, sometimes bare of
leaves in the juvenile stage. The bracts will usually be small, wrinkled and a pale pink. It is easier to distinguish
peruviana from the other two.
Bougainvillea spectabilis -- This was the first member of the family to be identifed. Willdenow is
credited with this identification in 1798. This species is noted for its hairy leaves and stems.
•
LEAVES are large and mostly ovate. They may show some rippling along the edges and hairs can be seen
underneath.
•
BRACTS are usually in shades of red, shades of dark pink or shades of purple.
•
THORNS are large and may be curved.
•
FLOWERS are usually cream colored.
•
HABIT is dense and the bracts appear up and down the branches. The bloom cycle is seasonal: during the dry
season or as a result of a cool spell which will trigger it to bloom.
•
REMARKS: Very similar to glabra except as noted above.
Scroll through the list or jump to the following sections:
Bougainvillea Species
Hybird Groups
Variegated Bougainvillea
New Bougainvillea from Seed
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
Link To List of Technical Writing about Bougainvillea
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Bougainvillea Hybird Groups - (Interspecies)
•
Bougainvillea X buttiana ( glabra X peruviana)
•
Bougainvillea X spectoperuviana
•
Bougainvillea X spectoglabra
Bougainvillea X buttiana
o
LEAVES are large and mostly ovate. Some slight hairs on upper and lower sides. Sometimes may be
heart shaped.
o
BRACTS are usually rounded in shades of red, shades of dark pink or shades of red.
o
THORNS are straight and short.
o
FLOWERS are usually cream with some pink tones being displayed. The tube may be the same color
as the bract.
o
HABIT is open and requires pruning to promote a bushy appearance. Repeat bloomer.
o
REMARKS: The original discovery of this hybird was made by Mrs R. Butt in a garden in Trinidad. In
the UK it was first named "Mrs Butt". Later when propagated in the US it was called "Crimson Lake"
and now I am sure it has a dozen other names as well.
Bougainvillea X spectoperuviana
o
LEAVES are large, dark green and ovate. These hybirds are usually hairless.
o
BRACTS are coppery red in the juvenile stage turning to different shades of magenta or pink as they
age.
o
THORNS are straight.
o
FLOWERS are cream colored.
o
HABIT is large growing and spreading. Repeat bloomer.
Bougainvillea X spectoglabra
o
LEAVES are small and dark green.
o
BRACTS are in shades of mauve or purple.
o
THORNS are numerous and curved.
o
FLOWERS are almost white.
o
HABIT is well branched and thick. The cultivar "Sanderiana" is a representative hybird. Repeat
bloomer.
Scroll through the list or jump to the following sections:
Bougainvillea Species
Hybird Groups
Variegated Bougainvillea
New Bougainvillea from Seed
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
Link To List of Technical Writing about Bougainvillea
30
Variegated Bougainvillea
This information provided by Omvery Chong [email protected] from Seremban N. Sembilan, West Malaysia: I am
indebted to Omvery for his help in several areas of this web site and his willingness to share his knowledge with us.
Variegated cultivars can be generally categorized into 2 groups.
•
The first group of variegated cultivars will have their veins, thorns, leaf stalks and stems green in colour, a
representative cultivar would be “Raspberry Ice”.
This group of variegated cultivars usually has uniform variegation for example just
cream along the edge of the green leaf. All bougainvillea species can have this green
leafstalk variegated bud-sport and they usually come in a series of colours, such as
the “Ratana Series” which has red, mauve, orange, pink, yellow, purple and white or
the “Jamaica Series”. They are easier to look after and can be easily propagated by
cutting.
•
The other group will have gold or yellow colour veins, thorns, leaf stalks and leaf stems.
They usually take longer time to form the woody tissues and “Thimma” is the
representative cultivar. They are slower in growing, required extra attention as they
are more prone to leaf spot. However, their variegation is more impressive, ranging
from few gold or cream spots and streaks to large irregular patches of green and
gold. They are harder to propagate by cutting and thus usually sold for higher price.
“Tiger”, “Queen Marble”, “Strawberry”, “Red September” etc are some of the
representative cultivars of this group of cultivar in Malaysia. Customers are always
astounded when looking at their leaves. However, this group of cultivar usually have
limited colour range, for example some variegated plants would only have red colour
bracts.
•
There is another group of variegated cultivar called “Dipline” in Malaysia which we have stopped planting.
They are bud-sports of the green-leafstalk variegated cultivars; hence we can take it for granted that
whenever we see such cultivar, there will be a true variegated variety of that cultivar.
I am not sure whether they ought to be grouped as variegated cultivars
because though they have leaves with 2 shades of green (a lighter yellow
green patch in the centre of the dark green leaf blade), they are not prominent
at all (they give just a slightly variegated look). It is only by close examination
that such slight variegation can be noticed, as the variegation will become less
distinct when leaves age. Thence, by looking from far, this group of
bougainvillea is all green-leaf type.
They are slower to develop because they have yellow veins, yellow thorns, yellow
leaf stalks and yellow leaf stems. Despite the fact that they are mutant, they do not
have high aesthetic value. They are actually in between the green-leafstalk
variegated cultivar and the yellow-leafstalk variegated cultivar.
When a green-leafstalk variegated cultivar produces the “Dipline” bud-sport, the
“Dipline” bud-sport can mutate further to become a yellow-leafstalk variegated
cultivar. When this happens, the new mutated “Dipline” will usually have more
attractive variegation such as distorted leaf with striking splotches. Of course, it is
very time consuming to reach such evolution and even when the “Dipline” has
evolved, there is big possibility for it to revert back to the “Dipline” type.
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The “Dipline” bud-sports are harder to grow than the green-leafstalk variegated
cultivar but produce more bracts than them. They usually come in a series of colour
just like the true variegated green-leafstalk cultivars. However, they do not come in
distorted shape except “Chili Delight”, which has distorted bracts and leaves. On the
other hand, they are far less attractive than the yellow-leafstalk variegated cultivar but
easier to look after than them.
All species and hybrids of bougainvillea can give rise to such bud-sport and thus, there are
many of them in Malaysia. From B.glabra cultivars such as “Mrs. Eva” to the inter-specific
hybrids such as “Juanita Hatten”, there is a wide collection of such “Dipline” cultivars but
many nurserymen do not list them as one of their commercial cultivar list.
Scroll through the list or jump to the following sections:
Bougainvillea Species
Hybird Groups
Variegated Bougainvillea
New Bougainvillea from Seed
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
Link To List of Technical Writing about Bougainvillea
Return to Bougainvillea Info Main Page
New Bougainvillea from Seed
Seed of bougainvillea is available in some parts of the world, namely from (Asia or Africa), but it
has been reported that these seed are primarily from the "species". Although, it is commonly
thought that most Bougainvillea hybirds are "sterile", there is a lot that we must learn before we can
say for a fact that they are "sterile":
It has been reports that the hybird "Mrs Butt" (B. x buttiana) has produced seed in Kenya but not in India. In
like manner, "Mrs Eva" (a hybird with the dominant parent as B. glabra) produces seed in Malaysia
Seed production in bougainvillea is primarily a result of the mother plant being grown in the ideal
climate and under certain environmental situations. In Malaysia and surrounding areas, it is easier
to get certain hybirds to set seed than in other areas of the world. However, even here it is not easy
to get seed to set:
The following was received from Omvrey Chong from Malaysia:
"I have B. glabra plants grown from seeds of natural pollination. However, I must admit that the natural
pollination for B. glabra is very low in hot countries especially with similar climate as Malaysia. B.
glabra cultivars such as ‘Mrs. Eva’, which has long lasting mauve bracts can set seed and is used for
cross breeding purpose as seed parent.
However, out of innumerous times of experiments, there was only one hybrid produced in
Malaysia, which has mauve bicoloured bracts, named ‘Eva’s Ice-cream’.
I tried to breed them several times but not succeeded, I guess good luck is needed
beside determination..."
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If you are lucky enough to get a bougainvillea hybird to set seed, it should take about 30 days for
the pod to ripen and then germination is fairly quick and easy. Seed are reported to be viable for up
to a year or more.
Scroll through the list or jump to the following sections:
Bougainvillea Species
Hybird Groups
Variegated Bougainvillea
New Bougainvillea from Seed
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
Link To List of Technical Writing about Bougainvillea
Return to Bougainvillea Info Main Page
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
All species and hybrids of bougainvillea can give rise to mutations or bud-sports and give us an
entirely new cultivar.
It appears that in countries where bougainvillea are native, mutations occur more readily than in
the temperate zones. For example my friend in Malaysia provided this information about mutations:
"Wherever large numbers of plants are propagated, variegated bud-sports will arise. This is why there are
many variegated bud-sports of “Elizabeth Angus” and “Mrs. Eva”. These two cultivars are the most often grown
varieties by our local nurserymen. Pollution is also another factor that gives rise to variegated bud-sport.
Various form of pollution especially chemical pollution cause the genetics of the plant to become unstable and
hence mutate. Most of these bud-sports are discovered accidentally by nurserymen."
Scroll through the list or jump to the following sections:
Bougainvillea Species
Hybird Groups
Variegated Bougainvillea
New Bougainvillea from Seed
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
Link To List of Technical Writing about Bougainvillea
Return to Bougainvillea Info Main Page
List of writing about Bougainvillea
There is little 'in-depth' resources on the web for Bougainvillea. If you know of a site, let me know.
Here is a Bougliography as Compiled by:
Dr. Jeff Norcini, Mr. Judd Butler, and Ms. Lucy Rogers
University of Florida/IFAS
North Florida Research and Education Center
Rt. 4, Box 4092
Monticello, Florida 32344
Bougliography
This page doesn't provide links, just a listing of various writings concerning bougainvillea.
Scroll through the list or jump to the following sections:
33
Bougainvillea Species
Hybird Groups
Variegated Bougainvillea
New Bougainvillea from Seed
New Bougainvillea from Mutations
Link To List of Technical Writing about Bougainvillea
Return to Bougainvillea Info Main Page
BOUGAINVILLEA CULTIVARS - A COMPREHENSIVE LIST
Red Shades
Barbara Karst
Large bright red bracts. A most popular standby that always performs well. Almost constant bloomer.
Cinderella
Double red . Leaves are edged in white-yellow variegation. Repeat bloomer.
Crimson
Rich red. Low spreading bush type. Very slow growing.
Double Red
Deep red. Cluster of fluffy bracts over nice green leaves.
Helen Johnson
A dwarf red . Compact and bushy grower. Branches freely.
Juanita Hatten
Red . Foilage may be slightly variegated in shades of green. Branches freely.
Jamaica Red
Purple-red bracts. Hugh grower.
La Jolla
Red bracts. Compact. Very much like Barbara Karst.
Laidlaw
Red to peach bracts. This is a spectabilis cultivar. Normally only seasonal bloom.
Mrs E. W. Bick
Bright red. This is a spectabilis cultivar. Normally only seasonal bloom.
Kayata
Red. This is small plant may be grown as a dwarf. Repeat bloomer.
Killie Campbell
Red. Large bracts, excellent trailing growth. Repeat bloomer.
Mrs Butt
Red to peach bracts. This is a buttiana cultivar. Large repeat bloomer.
Poulton
Red. This is a dwarf type. Repeat bloomer.
Raspberry Ice
Red. Varigated foliage. Slow grower. Repeat bloomer.
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Scarlet O'Hara
Purple-red bracts. Hugh grower. Needs large container to do well.
Temple Fire
Brick red bracts. Good branching habit. May be grown as a dwarf.
Thomasi
Bright red. This is a spectabilis cultivar. Normally only seasonal bloom.
Turley's Special
Bright red. This is a spectabilis cultivar. Normally only seasonal bloom.
Pink Shades
Double Pink
Hugh clusters of bright pink. Repeat bloomer.
James Walker
Large pink to reddish orange. Very nice tri-colored effect. Large plant.
Mary Palmer
Pink and white bracts on same plant. Tends to revert to all pink.
Miami Pink
Dark pink bracts. Does best in the landscape.
Pink Pixie
True miniature. Small pink bracts. Good for small pots.
Singapore Pink
Pinkish lavender. This is a glabra cultivar. Repeat bloomer.
Surprise
Free blooming pink which may sport white flowers.
Tango
Pink to red to orange. Pictrure of this one reminds me of James Walker. Repeat bloomer.
Tropical Bouquet
Orange but quickly becomes pink.
Vicky
Pink bracts. Leaf centers creamy yellow - some white bracts may be sported.
Orange Shades
Alabama Sunset
Orange-gold flowers, older bracts light pink.
California Gold
Large gold bracts. Can be considered as yellow in some enviornments.
Coral
Opens with coral orange bracts maturing to pink. Vigorous growth habit.
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Double Orange
Orange to pink bracts, sometimes speckled with touches of red.
Freckleface
Coral orange. Variegated foilage speckled with yellow. Repeat bloomer.
Gwyneth Portland
Coppery orange. May be grown as a dwarf. Repeat bloomer.
Hawaiian Gold
Gold to gold-pink. This is a buttiana cultivar. Repeat bloomer.
Hugh Evans
Pale orange bracts, fading to pale pink. Compact habit.
Isobel Greensmith
Pink to orange bracts. Loose growth habit, responses well to pruning.
Jamaica Orange
Orange bracts. Occasionally, leaves will show golden blotches but mostly the leaves will remain green.
Mrs. McClean
Coppery Orange. This is a buttiana cultivar. Repeat bloomer. Sport of Mrs Butt
Rainbow Gold
Pastel orange bracts, good orange bloomer.
Rosenka
New bracts orangish gold maturing to pink. Can be classed as dwarf because of slow compact growth.
White Shades
Alba
White. This is a glabra cultivar. Repeat bloomer. Responds well to pruning.
Apple Blossom
White with pink edge. This is a buttiana cultivar. I've read where it is slow to bloom.
Double White
Large clusters of white bracts, sometimes edged with pink.
Penelope
White. This may be called Mary Palmer's Enchantment. Repeat bloomer. Under some environmental conditions bracts
show some pink.
Golden Summer
White. Variegated yellow-gold foliage. Repeat bloomer.
Jamacia White
White bracts. Vigorous grower. Requires age to bloom well.
Seafoam
White bracts. Rapid grower but can be used in containers.
Summer Snow
Pure white and excellent for wedding situations.
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Purple Shades
Brasiliensis
Lavender purple bracts. Compact and well branched growth habit.
Dr. David Barry
Large lavender bracts. Fine for containers.
Elizabeth Angus
Deep purple bracts. Can suffer leaf problems if allowed to remain in wet humid situations.
Formosa
Light purple. This is a glabra cultivar. Repeat bloomer. Bracts tend to fade to brown and remain on the plant. Old bracts
should be removed for best show.
John Lattin
Lavender. This is a glabra cultivar. Repeat bloomer. Requires pruning to shape.
Mrs Eva
Mauve. Compact, prolific bloomer with long lasting bracts. Repeat bloomer.
Magnifica
Purple. This is a glabra cultivar. Repeat bloomer. In Latin America know as 'flor de verano'.
Pride of Zimbabwe
Light purple bracts. This is a spectabilis cultivar. Normally only seasonal bloom.
Royal Purple
Dark purple bracts. Good replacement for Elizabeth Angus in humid areas.
Sanderiana
Purple bracts. Small dark green leaves. Good repeat bloomer.
Varigated Bougainvillea from Malaysia
The following list was received from my friend from Malaysia and I am very glad to put them on this page. This is truely
an impressive list of VARIGATED bougainvillea. Omvrey Chong
[email protected]
Here is Omvrey's list verbatium:
B.spectabilis cultivars
“Queen Margaret”
Beautiful variegated form of “Rosa Catalina”. Variegations in different sizes and shades splashed cream and green on
the leaves. However, this cultivar is rather shy flowering in Malaysia.
B.glabra cultivars
“Hati Gadis”
Large bright purple bracts with green and white variegation. A bud sport of “Elizabeth Angus”.
Hati Gadis II”
Another bud-sport of “Elizabeth Angus” with green and yellow leaves. It is much prettier than the green and white “Hati
Gadis”.
“Malaysia Indah”
Another bud-sport of “Elizabeth Angus” with gold and green splashed leaves. A terrific cultivar because it gives
contrasting colours in the garden.
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“Purple Gem”
A small variegated variety with small bright purple bracts. Though this is a B.glabra cultivar, it is rather shy flowering.
“Danger Ivy”
A variegated cultivar with beautiful cream and green leaves. Bracts are pink and will only bloom during extreme dry
season. It has a very vigorous growth habit but not very popular in Malaysia because this cultivar hardly bloom.
“Senjakala”
A variegated B.glabra cultivar with purple bracts. The flowering period seems to be seasonal.
“Jarum”
Another bud sport of “Elizabeth Angus” but with yellow leaves splashed with green markings. Leaves and bracts are
distorted. Thorn small but very close.
“Proton Saga”
Leaves gold but splashed with green dots. Bracts hang in drooping panicles, palest lavender-pink. Erect growth
conditions. A bud-sport of “Singapore Beauty”.
“White Proton Saga”
A bud-sport of “Proton Saga” with splashed leaves and pure white bracts.
“Magnificent Barry”
Bud-sport of Variegated Singapore Beauty with green and yellow variegated leaves.
“Ms. Alice’s Coat”
A bud sport of “Singapore White” with green and yellow variegation and pure white bracts.
“Golden Lady”
Bud-sport of “Magnificent Barry” but with all gold coloured leaves.
“Mrs. Eva Variegata”
A light mauve bracts with white and green leaves. Very free flowering.
“Mrs. Eva Variegata- White”
A bud-sport of variegated “Mrs. Eva” but with white bracts.
“Mrs. Eva Variegata- Purple”
A bud sport of variegated “Mrs. Eva” but with purple bracts.
“Eva’s Ice-cream”
Variegated form of “Mrs. Eva’s” . Bracts are bi-coloured with light mauve and white. Very free flowering also.
“Eva’s Ice-cream Highlight”
A variegated bud-sport of “Eva’s Ice-cream” but leaves are cupped up and much smaller than “Eva’s Ice-cream”. The
bi-coloured bracts are of a darker mauve shade with white colour and are much smaller than the original cultivar. .
“Eva’s Wonder”
Same characteristics as “Mrs. Eva” but bracts are purple in colour. Leaves are green and yellow in variegation. Old
leaves are sometimes all green.
“Mrs. Eva II”
Same features like “Mrs. Eva Variegata” but with green and yellow variegation.
“Mrs. Eva Variegata- White II”
Same features as “Mrs. Eva Variegata- White” but with green and yellow variegation.
“Mrs. Eva’s Ice-cream Highlight II”
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Another bud sport of “Mrs. Eva’s Ice cream Highlight”. The leaves are green but the edges is yellow.
“Ratana Mauve” (Mauve Butterfly)
Leaves are greyish in colour and distorted. Bracts are mauve and also distorted in hanging manner. Very free
flowering. Bud-sport of “Mrs. Eva”.
“Ratana White” (White Butterfly)
A pure white distorted bract variety with distorted greyish leaves.
“Ratana Purple” (Purple Butterfly)
Leaves are distorted with many wrinkles. Bracts are purple in coloured. It should be a bud-sport of “Elizabeth Angus”.
“Angus Supreme”
Green leaves edged with gold. Bracts are purple and somehow sticking together. A bud-sport of “Elizabeth Angus”.
“Sweet Dream”
A bud sport of “Sanderiana”. Leaves are all gold in colour, bracts are pale lavender. A thornless variety.
“Snow White”
Another bud sport of “Mrs. Eva- White” with cream leaves splashed with green marking. Free flowering variety.
“Mini White”
Leaves are small and variegated. Bracts are longer but small and are white in coloured. A shy flowering variety.
“Eva’s Heart”
Beautiful variegated cultivar with white bracts that blended with pink shade.
B. x buttiana cultivars
“ Batik Yellow”
Variegated leaves. Yellow bracts.
“Gautama’s Red”
Leaves are gold splashed with green, thick texture and cupped up. Bracts are fiery red. Very beautiful. Bud-sport of
“Mrs.Butt”.
“Gautama Batik”
A green and white variegated variety of “Mrs.Butt”.
“Hujan Panas- Pink” (Pink Fantasy)
A pink variety of “Hujan Panas”. Bud-sport of “Texas Dawn”.
“Hujan Panas II- Pink”
Pink bracts but leaves are decorated with gold dots that gathered in the central of leaves.
Spectoperuviana hybrids
“Thimma” (Vicky)
Bracts are bicoloured and leaves have a large splash of gold in the centre of each. Bracts are pink and white. Budsport of “Mary Palmer”.
“Makris” (Ice-cream)
Bud-sport of “Mary Palmer” with bi-coloured bracts. When bracts are pink, it shows some white pigmentation and vice
versa.
“Magic Makris” (Magic Ice-cream)
Bud sport of “Makris” with leaves has gold splash in central. Bracts are of softer pink and white.
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Inter- specific hybrids
“Ninja Turtle” (Sirih Junjung Batik)
Variegated plant with small leathery leaves. Internodes very short and leaves crowded. Thorns short, stubby and blunt,
larger on strong canes. Bracts small and densely packed magenta- red in colour.
“Sakura” (Flamingo Pink)
Moderate grower with dark green leaves, bracts medium with white mixed with shading of pink on upper half of bract.
“Sakura Batik”
A bud sport of “Sakura” with green and white leaves.
“Tembikai” (Watermelon)
A variegated Brunei variety. Bracts are soft pink changing to various degree of peach. A very beautiful but rare variety.
“Ladybird”
Green leaves somewhat cupped up when leaves still young. Bracts are white but decorated with red dots. Dots are
pink at start but as weather gets more and more torrid, pink dots turn to red.
“Ladybird Batik”
A bud sport of “Ladybird” with green and white leaves but bracts are somewhat smaller than the green leaves variety.
“Batik Red”
A bud sport of “Mrs. Butt” with red bracts. Leaves are green and white.
“Batik Orange”
A bud sport of “Orange King” with variegated leaves.
“Batik Pink”
A pink variety with variegated leaves.
“China Beauty”
A very soft rosy pink with variegated leaves . Very pretty, as weather gets hotter, rosy bracts will turn to a deeper red.
“Iguana Variegata”
Variegated leaves when young and green leaves when aged. Bracts change its colour from orange to dusty pink.
“Chili Red Batik”
Fiery red bracts with variegated leaves.
“Marietta” (Cinderella)
Variegated leaves with many double red bracts in a single bloom.
“Yellow Wonder”
Yellow bract variety with variegated leaves. Matured leaves turn green, giving the plant a grafted looking effect.
“Indian Beauty” (Miss India)
A very beautiful variety with leaves look shinning as if being waxed. Bracts are red and usually it grows very tall without
much branching. Whole plant looks like an artificial plastic plant.
“Mona Lisa”
A variety looks like “Indian Beauty” but is a dwarfed cultivar. Leaves are very crisped as if it has been rolled up along
the edges.
“Mona Lisa- Yellow”
A bud sport of “Mona Lisa” but with yellow bracts. Leaves are not that crisp compare to the red variety.
“Mini Marble” (Tang Long) (Chinese Lantern)
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Leaves are green and bracts are orange. Bracts curled inward forming a small marble shape. Beautiful cause it looks
like many small lanterns hanging up.
“Red Lotus”
A red coloured “Mini Marble” but leaves are greyish in coloured and sometimes variegated and cupped up.
“Puteri Mahsuri”
Leaves are variegated and distorted and twisted in arrangement. Bracts are small, distorted, and twisted in
arrangement. A cultivar that does not look like bougainvillea.
“Orange Puteri Mahsuri”
Bud-sport of “Puteri Mahsuri” with orange bracts.
“Mahsuri Reflex”
Bud-sport of “Puteri Mahsuri”.
“Mahsuri Reflex - Pink”
Bud-sport of “Puteri Mahsuri” but with pink bracts.
“Ikan Bilis” (The Ray Fish) (Puteri Emas)
Once mistakenly being recognized as the yellow bud-sport of “Puteri Mahsuri”. Bracts are yellow, distorted, small and
twisted.
“Poultolni batik”
Variegated plant with yellow and green leaves. Bracts are red.
“Poultolni Orange Variegata”
Orange bracts with variegated leaves.
“Hong Kong’s Beauty”
Variegated bud sport of “Juanita Hatten”. Leaves are gold with a green central patch. Bracts are red, stems and veins
are gold colour.
“Red September”
Leaves look like “Hong Kong’s Beauty” but the variegation is less prominent. Bracts are bicoloured, red and pink.
“Lady Pink”
Leaves are very pretty, gold splashed with green. Bracts are big and are pink in coloured.
“Queen Marble”
Leaves and bracts are distorted. Leaves are green but stripped with gold lines. Bracts are orange in coloured.
“Queen Marble- Red”
Stripped leaves cultivar with red bracts.
“Tiger”
A very rare variety. Leaves and bracts are medium in size. Leaves are gold marked with different shade of green
splashed and bracts are red.
“Strawberry”
A very beautiful variety. Bud sport of “Queen Marble” with multicoloured leaves. New leaves are yellow edged by green
pigment. Bracts are red and very well contrast with the multicoloured leaves.
“Strawberry Delight”
A beautiful bud sport of “Strawberry”. Leaves are distorted so does the red bracts.
“Blue Moon”
A dark red gets to maroon variety. Leaves are variegated.
41
“New Pink”
A pink coloured variety with the same leaves as above.
“Orange Batik 11”
An orange variety with less prominent variegated leaves.
“Yellow Batik 11”
A yellow variety with less prominent variegated leaves.
“Red Batik 11”
A red variety with less prominent variegated leaves.
“Ratana Red” (Red Butterfly)
A bud sport of “Red Batik” with leaves and bracts distorted. Bracts are red in coloured as if many small butterflies
resting above the leaves.
“Ratana Yellow” (Yellow Butterfly)
A yellow butterfly.
“Ratana Orange” (Orange Butterfly)
An orange butterfly.
“Ratana Pink” (Pink Butterfly)
A pink butterfly.
“Ratana Rainbow”
Bud sport of “Sakura” with distorted bracts showing white coloured tipped with pink. Leaves also distorted.
“Ratana Butterfly”
A variety which looks very much like “Ratana Rainbow’.
“Hujan Panas” (Red Fantasy)
A bud sport of “Juanita Hatten” with red bracts against gold dotted leaves.
"Hujan Panas – Orange”
Orange bracts variety which leaves same with “Hujan PanasII- Pink”.
“Red Ribbons”
A variegated variety with leaves distorted and bracts also distorted. Bracts are red, very fine.
“Chili Delight”
Green but distorted leaves. Bracts are orange in coloured, distorted and twisted in arrangement.
“Baby Rose”
Bracts are white but company by many mauve dots. Leaves are dark green.
“Muar’s Butterfly”
Bracts and leaves size same as “Ratana Rainbow”. Bracts are red.
PHOTO GALLERY
The link below takes you to a comprehensive photo gallery of various Bougainvillea cultivars.
BE WARNED THAT YOU WILL GET INUNATED WITH POP UP ADDS UNLESS YOU HAVE
POP-UP STOPPER TYPE SOFTWARE.
http://bougainvillea.freeyellow.com/photogallery.html
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43
#917
Jasminum mesnyi
Common Names: primrose jasmine, Chinese jasmine
Family: Oleaceae (olive Family)
Description
Primrose jasmine is a rambling, open evergreen shrub with
long, slender, arching stems that will climb like a sprawling
vine if given support. Without support, it grows in a
fountainlike mound 5-10 ft (1.5-3.1 m) in height and spread.
The stems are square in cross section, and green, becoming
woody with age. The glossy dark green leaves are opposite and
divided into three leaflets, each 1-3 in (2.5-7.6 cm) long. The
fragrant trumpet shaped flowers are borne in early spring and
sporadically into summer. They are semidouble with 6-10
petals, almost 2 in (5.1 cm) across, and sweetly fragrant.
Primrose jasmine is very similar to the closely related winter
jasmine (J. nudiflorum), but is less cold hardy, has larger,
fragrant flowers, and blooms a little later in the season.
Location
Primrose jasmine is native to southwestern China.
Culture
Primrose jasmine flowers appear in abundance in the winter
months and are sometime produced a few here and there in spring
and summer.
Primrose jasmine is fast growing, easy to cultivate
and tolerates any soils except those that are constantly wet.
Light: Primrose jasmine does well in full sun to partial shade. Protect from full midday sun in the
Deep South.
Moisture: Regular garden watering.
Hardiness: USDA Zones 8 - 10. An evergreen in mild climates, primrose jasmine can tolerate light
frosts. However, it may die to the ground following a hard freeze, but usually comes back in spring if
the winter wasn't too severe. Late spring freezes can kill new shoots and flower buds.
Propagation: Primrose jasmine is easily propagated from semiripe tip cuttings. In fact, the branches
often take root where they touch the ground.
Usage
Primrose jasmine makes a fine specimen shrub,
growing in a fountainlike mound of glossy green
foliage with bright yellow fragrant flowers in early
spring and sporadically into the summer. Use it to trail
over fences or walls. It is spectacular in masses and
adds interest to mixed shrub hedges and screens. Use
any of the mounding jasmines for erosion control on
banks or slopes where their long trailing canelike
stems will take root where they touch the ground.
Primrose jasmine cascades down a highway embankment along
the Apalachee Parkway in Tallahassee, Florida where it muffles
road noise and brightens up gray winter days.
Primrose jasmine blooms on the previous season's
growth, so prune soon after flowering. Remove old,
less productive canes to ground level, and head back
flowering shoots to a strong bud or lower shoot.
Shearing would destroy the natural beauty of this
graceful shrub. If grown in a restricted space,
primrose jasmine may require pruning several times a
year.
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QUISQUALIS INDICA 'DOUBLE'
Rangoon Creeper
Quisqualis indica is just one of the tropical, flowering vine that we offer. It is suitable to many gardeners
all over the country because of its tolerance to be be trimmed to any size. It can also be grown in pots.
As the weather warms up the display of flowers will begin to cover the lush foliage.
Rangoon Creeper has a unique bloom. One plant will carry 3 different color of flowers.
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Flowers starts white and with age turn pink and then red. If that wasn't enough to please most gardeners,
the flowers have a slight fragrance too.
We carry 2 varieties. One with a single flower and another with a double. The single form is much easier
to propagate, making it more common and readily available. Both are equally beautiful.
Check out Quisqualis indica 'Single'
The plant goes semi dormant during the winter and resprouts again when it warms up.
Trimming is advisable just before it starts sprouting in late winter.
FAMILY : Combretaceae
ORIGIN : Tropical Asia, New Guinea
TYPE/USES : flowering vine
SIZE : vine up to 12' on average
GROWTH RATE : fast
LIGHT REQUIREMENTS : full/partial sun
WATER REQUIREMENTS : average, less in the winter
MIN. TEMP. : mid 20°s with protection
FLOWER : warmer months of the year
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Dombeya calantha
Dombeya cacuminum
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Combretum coccineaum
Introduction to Bougainvillea
By Geoff Stein (palmbob)
June 14, 2010
This amazing colorful vine is grown extensively as a landscaping shrub and potted plant throughout much of the tropics
and the warm temperate and subtropics throughout the world.
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There are at least four and as many as 15 species of Bougainvillea,
depending on what source you believe. Most Bougainvilleas grown
in cultivation are cultivars/hybrids of two of the three primary
species available in cultivation. Bougainvillea spectabilis can
reportedly be identified by its woolly, rounded leaves, large curved
thorns and ovoid bracts of reds and purples. Bougainvillea glabra
is a smaller-branched and leaved plant with less thorns and less
overall size, and perhaps with less color options (usually magentas
or purples). Bracts are triangle-shaped, similar to hybrids 'Ms
Alice' and 'Sillhouette' (see below) . Thorns are said to be short,
thin and curved. However, I can find no photos of these two pure
species to see what ‘large and short' actually mean. Bougainvilla
peruviana is a much less commonly encountered species, and is supposedly a very open, non-dense
vine with greenish bark and roundish bracts of various magenta hues. Thorns are thin and straight to
somewhat curved in old plants. Leaves are thinner and narrower, almost lancelote. There is a
relatively new species in cultivation known as the tree bougainvillea, Bougainvillea arborea. This plant
does not vine but actually forms a real tree trunk (solitary) and tends to have only varieties with
lavender bracts. The flowers of this species have a nice smell (the other species have odorless
flowers).
Bougainvillea arborea photos (left by jnana and right by islandplumeria)
Obviously any cultivated plants with bract colors other than red or purple are hybrids as none of the
above species come in those colors. The actual origins or species mixes that have been used to
create today's cultivated hybrids is often unclear, so most hybrids are not assigned species names.
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Bract colors not normally encountered in nature. Right photo shows a bit of 'natural' color appearing as pink splotch on this hybrid
This vine is native to Brazil but it is grown all over the world in the tropics and warm temperate zones
(down to about USDA zone 9b). In most areas it is an evergreen, but in marginal climates it may be
deciduous. It also tends to have a ‘down' time in winters when it may not flower at all or as well as it
does the rest of the year. If it freezes and gets badly damaged, but the roots survive, it may regrow
year after year. In colder areas it makes a good potted plant and can be brought indoors in colder
months. It does not, however, make a good house plant. Its demands for very bright light keep it from
surviving indoors, in addition to most species being heavily thorned. In hot, arid climates, it may not
flower well during the midsummer seasons, perhaps due to low humidity, or decreased water available
to the roots.
Bougainvillea growing in the tropics along a salt water inlet (Hawaii) left photo; right photo leafless and flowerless in winter in my
yard
Though they are probably best known for their famous colorful displays throughout the Mediterranean
climates of the world, they grow very well in most tropical, wet climates as well, though perhaps not
quite as gloriously. Climates with lots of sun seem to produce the best looking plants so climates with
huge amounts of rainfall may not support as much dazzling color as is seen in the drier, sunnier
subtropical climates of the world. However, some humidity is needed to stimulate flowering activity, so
extremely arid climates may not be the best for color displays, either. Blooming occurs year round in
most tropical climates, but in more seasonal locations (like in Southern California) blooming is most
prolific in spring and fall.
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Brilliant display in front of a Los Angeles home
Bougainvilleas are grown primarily for their amazing and brilliantly colored carpals. The flowers of this
plant are nearly all white or cream colored and fairly insignificant, but each flower is surrounded by
several (usually 3) sets of carpals of a wide range of colorful, papery carpals one can see for milessome colors are so brilliant they seem to emit their own light and can be hard to photograph (the
brilliance is often lost in translation). The colors range from a dark purple, through all the pinks and
reds, into oranges and some yellows to white. The leaves of some hybrids are beautifully variegated
making these forms even more spectacular.
All the color in these photos is the bracts, while the flower are the tiny white centers
fairly wide leaves of a hybri (left)
variegated leaves on another variety (right)
new leaves on a variegated variety (left)
more typical leaves of most hybrids (right)
Bougainvillea is an aggressive grower and a pretty easy plant to form into massive hedges, espaliers,
free-form shrubs or 'trees' and well-manicured topiaries. Without any control this vine can grow up
over thirty feet climbing up nearby foliage or buildings using its waxy thorns as climbing instruments.
Unchecked it can do quite a bit of damage to structures by growing into cracks and crevices dislodging
roofing tiles or other structures. When growing this one next to a building, it is best to trim it back away
from the structure now and then.
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left showing Bougainvillea growing over a fence; right is some growing over a wall and carefull pruned into a living wall
'free form' growing of vine on left and more structured training of vines in artistic sculpture (Getty Museum, Los Angeles)
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left shows carefully pruned vines shaped to look like a tree (but with multiple trunks); Center and right show small scale espaliers in
Los Angeles
left is a massive vine growing over forty feet tall on a Cedar deodora; right is a shorter shrub taking over preexisting foliage
This thicket-forming behavior also makes bougainvillea hedges a great place to house all sorts of
unwanted pets from rats and mice to pigeons and starlings. The thorns make chasing predators into a
bromeliad thicket a risky exercise. The thorns of most species and hybrids are hooked so that they
usually grab hold of moving objects either on the way in or out of the vines. These thorns come in
handy when growing bougainvillea as a fence hedge, allowing the vines to hook themselves onto
chainlink, brick, iron etc. One rarely has to do much tying up of vines to secure this genus. The hooks
also are effective deterrents if one is growing this plant as a security hedge. Few unwanted guests will
hazard a climb through a dense hedge of this vicious vine. Unfortunately these spines make
trimming and hauling away cut branches a bit of a task, and I have the wounds to prove it.
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spines on young plant (before they become hook-shaped) left and center photos; somewhat more hooked mature spines right photo
Building on left has very old bougainvillea vines growing on and INTO building, requiring eventual removal. Dozens of creatures were
discovered to be living in these dense shrubs. Left is plant getting out of control in my yard and starting to lift away the trellis behind it
This plant needs a lot of light and does not do well in shaded gardens (this is also why it doesn't do
well indoors). Heat is also essential, though it seems to be able to handle, and even excel in climates
with extreme heat as long as it gets watered well in them. It is a very drought tolerant genus and is
ideal for growing in climates with long dry seasons as long as it gets water occasionally (eg,
Mediterranean climates). In pots, this plant is a bit more touchy and will dry out beyond the point of no
return if one is not diligent about watering in dry, hot seasons. When putting in pots, be sure there is
not too much, if any, peat in the soil or rewetting the soil should it dry out can become an undertaking
(peat soils shrink away from sides of the pot so water will just pass down and out the hole leaving the
center soil dry and roots very thirsty).
literally an acre of potted Bougainvillea in a botanical gardens in Thailand (Nong Nooch)
Fertilization should be often, though I hardly ever fertilize any of my Bougainvillea and there never
seems to be a lack of flowering or growing. Perhaps this fertilization suggestions pertains more to
potted plants, or plants grown in very sterile depleted soils. Fertilizers should be a bit heavier on the
potassium and phosphorous than the nitrogen or one may just get a rapidly growing vine with sparse
flowering.
Root sensitivity can be a problem so as little damage or fiddling with roots when repotting or planting
the better (root pruning is NOT recommened). Most of the roots are fine, delicate structures, but the
rootball attachment to the stem is also somewhat tenuously delicate and careless planting can tear
much of this connection sending the plant into a serious shock or even killing it. Because of the root
sensitivity issue, it is recommended to only repot bougainvilleas when they really need to be repotted,
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which is when the roots are so root-bound that there is very little soil left in the pot. This plant, for me,
is somewhat like a palm in that it actually seems to like being rootbound, growing best when the root
are really crammed into a pot. Do not overpot this one, or you may risk root rot. However, as long as
the soil is very well draining, this is not a huge worry. It is not recommended on use a water basin
under potted bougainvilleas for this reason.
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Bougainvilla bonsais. Don't let these roots dry out too long!
photo upper left DaleTheGardener
Salt tolerance of this species is good, so it is a great vine for growing near the beach. Anyone who
has driven most of the island of Kauai might recall the massive bromeliad colonies growing wild on the
beaches on the drier side of the island.
Bugs are not a huge problem with Bougainvillea (snails seem to mostly ignore this plant), but grasshoppers and inchworms munch my
plants up pretty severely, particurlary in shadier parts of the plant
Below are some of the more common hybrids in cultivation. This is anything but an all-inclusive list,
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but it gives the reader some idea of the variety of colors and what is available
Bougainvillea 'After Glow' (left photo htop)
Baby Allison' (right photo Kell)
Bougainvillea 'Alexandra' (center photo kniphofia)
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Bougainvillea 'Bambino
Bougainvillea 'Bambino Baby Lauren' (left photo Kell) Bougainvillea 'Bambino Baby Victoria (center photo Kell)
Majik' (right photo brical1)
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Bougainvillea 'Bambino
Bougainvillea 'California Gold' (left photo Kell)
Bougainvillea 'Coconut Ice' (right photo htop)
Bougainvillea 'Gold Rush' (left photo Kell)
White' (right photo Kell)
Bougainvillea 'Cherry Blossom' (center photo Kell)
Bougainvilea 'Imperial Delight' (center photo Cambrium)
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Bougainvillea "Jamaica
Bougainvillea 'Key West White' (left photo artcons);
Bougainvillea 'Ms Alice' (center photo IslandJim);
photo Xenomorf)
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Bougainvillea 'Orange King' (right
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Bougainvillea 'Orange Ice' (left and center)
Bougainvillea 'Pink Pearl' (right photo Kell)
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Bougainvillea 'Purple Robe' left (all photos Kell)
Bougainvillea 'Rosea'
Bougainvillea 'Rosenka' (left photo Kell)
Bougainvillea 'Thai Delight' (photo Kell)
Bougainvillea 'Raspberry Ice'
Bougainvillea 'Silhouette' (center photo brical1)
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Bougainvillea 'Torch Glo' is a miniature species, reluctant to vine, in which the carpals and flowers form in clusters along the
branches (right photo KactusKathi)
Bougainvillea 'White Madonna' (photo by Kell)
For more on growing bromeliads and information about available hybrids, see http://www.bgi-usa.com/
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Bougainvillea in Southern Cal nursery
New?
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chu8888
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7
Jun 16, 2010 12:48 AM
Yes!
bougainvillea
Yes!
There are 3 in my collection
Noturf
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5
Jun 15, 2010 9:13 AM
Yes!
bougainvillea article
otter47
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4
Jun 14, 2010 5:59 PM
Yes!
Bougainvillea article
mimika
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11
Jun 14, 2010 12:32 PM
Yes!
Bougainvillea article
bromeliade
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16
Jun 14, 2010 10:47 AM
Yes!
bougainvillea arborea
capcarl
2
37
Jun 14, 2010 9:49 AM
Yes!
Thanks for the great article
SunnyRegards
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13
Jun 14, 2010 8:37 AM
Yes!
Propagation
jjacques
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43
Jun 14, 2010 3:23 AM
Starting a new thread:
From: Climber
Subject:
Your message:
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Image (JPG, PNG, or GIF):
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Petrea volubilis alba
67
Bauhinia white mariposa
Bauhinia blakeana
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Juniperus conferta
69