Dhurrie of Latur

Transcription

Dhurrie of Latur
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Table of Contents
 objective of the craft………………….3
 location……………………………………4
 history of latur……………………………………5
 the dhurrie- the craft…………………………6
 history of dhurrie……………………………7
 dhurrie of latur……………………………………14
 raw materials and tools used…………………14
 procedure …………………15
 our experience…………………………17
 swadar…………………18
 sketches …………………21
 students working in Swadar……………………27
 market survey………………………29
 final products and costing………………………30
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Objective
 To understand the hand craft of dhurrie of latur
Maharashtra.
 To learn and apply the aesthesis of the craft into new
innovative products.
 To help and guide the traditional craftsmen to develop
new techniques
 New ways to promote their handcraft and learn new
designs
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LOCATION
Latur District is situated in the south-eastern part of the Maharashtra.
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HISTORY OF LATUR
Latur has an ancient history, which probably dates to
the Rashtrakuta period. It was home to a branch of Rashtrakutas
which ruled the Deccan from 753 to 973 AD.
Later in the 19th century, Latur became part of the independent
princely state of Hyderabad.
In 1905 it was merged with surrounding areas and renamed Latur
tehsil, becoming part of Osmanabad district. Before 1948, Latur was
a part of Hyderabad State under Nizam. The chief of
Nizam's Razakar army, QasimRizwi, was from Latur.
After Indian independence and the merger of Hyderabad with
the Indian Union, Osmanabad became part of Bombay Province. In
1960, with the creation of Maharashtra, Latur became one of its
districts. On August 16, 1982, a separate Latur district was carved out
of Osmanabad district.
Latur earthquake of 1993
Latur had a devastating intraplate earthquake on 30 September
1993 resulting in a huge loss of life. The earthquake measured only
6.3 on the Richter scale bu
t more than 30,000 people were estimated to have died mainly due
to poor construction of houses and village huts made of stones
which just collapsed on people who were fast asleep in early
morning hours.
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Industry
The city is a major sugarcane and edible oils, soyabean, grapes and
mango production center. A fine blend of mango with locally grown
mangoes was developed
THE DHURRIE
(a)
A dhurrie in the workshop
The dhurries are so named as the weft stripes are created by
shredding of cotton fabric or pieces of sarees termed as chindis.
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HISTORY OF DHURRIE
The significance of animal skins and of ritual designs on floor
paintings nad mats also applies to the design of dhurries. Like
other indian art form,it assimilates new influences in its already
extensive decorative vocabulary without losing its own
identity.The charm of dhurries is in the simple treatment of
the decorative details ,and the
principle of symmetry and
endless repetition.
In most nineteenth century
records ,the dhurrie is reffered
to asa ‘dari’or ‘satranji’ in the
north of india and as a
‘jamkbani’ in
the south .The knotted carpet
was probably introduced in
india
from Persia ,but in the case of
dhurrie India had its own long i
weaving industry, which was
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renowned as its textile
production.It is thought that the
cotton rug fragment sound by
‘sir Aurel stein’ in 1901 at the
ancient niya site in Turkestan in
india and dated to the first to
third centuries AD 13.The
fragment is now in british
museum and may be the
earliest
surviving example of an indian
dhurrie. Trading between india
and china via central asia was very active at this time. The
pattern of stripes and alternating bands of swastika type motifs
and the brilliant colours all support the Indian attribution. An
analysis of dyes ,particularly the green, might be able to identify
the plants used which could confirm the indian origin.
In India people still think of the dhurrie solely in terms of the
standard striped floor-covrering ,with two or three colour
combinations-blue and white. these were frequently illustrated
in indian miniatures and paintings and are among the most
popular floor coverings today.
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The origin and the popularity
of the striped dhurrie are
closely
related.Stripes are normally
first attempt by an
inexperienced
weaver to expand his skill
through introducing another
colour,
combining different coloured
yarns in alternating bands.The
stripes in dhurries have also
developed form the stripes in
woven red mats,and from
what seems to be specific
hindu
tradition where sadhusor ascetics are shown seated on tiger
skins.In Ajanta in cave ,the dancers are shown sitting on a
striped floor covering very probably a dhurrie and there are
many miniatures from the seventeenth century onwards
showing large striped floor covering in use for ceremonies and
gatherings .Furthermore, abstract patterns whether striped or
geometric appeal boyh to the hindu and muslim communities
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and constritute the fundamental vocabulary of dhurrie designs.
WEAVES
Flatweaving is
the process of
interlacing a
warp thread
with a a
weft thread. It
is the simplest
and the fastest
way of
producing
a woven
textile. Colours
and patterns
are introduced
once the
basic weaving knowledge is acquired. Flatweaving however
unlike carpet-knotting limits the possibility of creating intricate
patterns and this had a great influence on the design of a rug or
dhurrie. The basic weaves, and the more complicateddovetailing, siltweave, eccentric wefting.
Slevedges are the side finishes of the dhurrie the strength of
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the selvedges is important as dhurrie have to withstand strong
wear and tear. Tassels or fringes prevent the dhurrie from the
fraying. The most common techniques is the warp loop fringe,
basically the twisting of the warp threads together when the
end beam of the loom is removed from the warps and the loops
are cut. With the plaited fringe, warp threads are plaited into
bands. The net fringe is favoured in village production, and here
thw wraps are knotted together into groups, then subdivided
and knotted again.
THE LOOM
There has been very litte change over the centuries in the
process of weaving adhurrie.Three different types of looms are
used.The most common is the standard horizontal handloom,
favoured in jails and workshops:smaller were used in village
production .In jail workshops the horizontal loom is operated
with up to seven prisoners in a row.
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MATERIAL AND TECHNIQUES
Weaving in India is often alluded to in the vedas .In the Ajanta
cave paintings coloured stripes were probably among the most
ancient form of ornamentation once the art of plain weaving
had been mastered.
According to Strabo, when alexander the great arrived in india
in 327 bc,the greeks noticed that the people wore garments
made of ‘tree wool’ or ‘wool produced in nuts’.cotton which is
native to india was cheaper and cooler than wool,and its
availability and strength made it a favrioute with weavers for it
provided study warps even when a carpet or a dhurrie was
made of wool and its shape when woven and could be very
finely spun and woven-the prayer dhurrie of the nizam of
Hyderabad was so finely woven it almost felt like silk.
CONCLUSION
It is very difficult to get a precise and definite picture of old
indian dhurries because of the patchy nature of the evidence
and the chequred history of the dhurrie. There is no doubt
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however that the dhurrie deserves its place in the history of the
arts and crafts of the Indian subcontinent because of its originality
and unique nature. Intricate patterns and original designs have
shone through.The Indian dhurrie is no longer synonymous only with
the striped flatweave –the nature of the commission still dictates the
quality of the finished product.
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DHURRIE OF LATUR
A striking feature of
the dhurrie is its warp
is spun cotton yarn
while weft is unspun
cotton (chindi) that
gives dhurrie
(b)the sarees being
cut into strips
RAW MATERIALS USED
The dhurrie is weaved of old sarees
collected from nearby villages.
cotton yarn
ornamental decorative
zips
waste fabrics
leather and other contempory
fabric (10%)
The process work before
weaving of dhurrie
A striped look .The dhurrie is
identifiable by their characteristics
stripes in bold solid colours of red
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,blue, green, purple etc .The dhurries are mostly produced in
Maharashtra. The dhurrie making process is flexible and horizontal
loom can be adjusted to make large or small dhurries. The
adaptability of the dhurrie making process has led to many
inventions.
In process of dhurrie making the yarns are supposed to be tight while
weaving. The warp is stretched between two horizontal
beams,which can be adjusted according to the size of dhurrie
required. The chindi is inserted in the warp yarns with hands
according to the pattern.
Dhurrie can easily be produced in many colours and sizes.
Dhurrie weaving in Maharashtra has come out as an important
economic activity .These dhurries most commonly adorn the living
rooms and bed rooms and find very important use in the prayer
rooms
PROCEDURE
First, the old sarees are collected.
These are then cut into thin strips by
a cutter which runs on power.
Then, combinations are made with
this strips, which are tied together
in bundles and then given to the
weavers.
the old sarees are collected from a
nearby places, a lot of people also
denote the sarees to the NGO
then these old sarees are properly
are stitched together. The end of
one saree is stitched together
forming a continuous thaan of
fabric.
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The dhurrie is then carefully folded to a fan fold neatly placed one
fold on top of another
The ends of the folded saree is hand stitched with a needle so that
the folds of the fabric don’t move
The fabric is then neatly placed on the table
with weights, and cut into equal strips.
These strips are given to the weavers
The weavers use these strips in weft instead
of yarns
When the weavers pull the reed towards
them, the saree strips crumble to form a
horizontal strip.
That is what makes dhurrie so colourful and
unique.
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OUR EXPERIENCE IN LATUR
Our experience in Latur was quite memorable. We were all
astonished by how these people are so positive in life that they work
to earn their own living without any complains. On the other side, we
see people who are totally fit and who beg for money.
On the second day of our craft documentation, there were two new
entries in the NGO. So, we also got to see how they start with the
training where they are first made to get used to the environment
around them and how they struggle hard but learn the art of
weaving for sustaining their own lives. swadar weavers in process of
weaving
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SWADAR
(E) the founder of swadar
Aims
Striving for human development of visually and physically
challenged youth, women, And rural deprived sections
Rural face of disability
Lack of access to
education and
employment is common
scene with rural disabled
all the more worse with
high vulnerability.
Social support has been
shirking living dependent
like disabled abandon.
Disabled women are not
only victims of
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impairment but also poverty
and poverty and patriarchy.
More than 65% disabled live
in rural India and their
deprivation and exclusion
due to lack of apt
rehabilitation services is
serious concern as they
constitute 2% of total
population.
JUST NEED AN OPPORTUNITY
The rural disabled person has
proved their resilience and
positive force for self reliant
life. The only facilitation needed is of opportunity.
The opportunity to learn, earn and live life with dignity.
SWADHAR
ECONOMIC
INCLUSION
WITH DIGNITY
The
deprivation of
rural disabled
can be well
addressed
with provision
of capacity
based
employment and social rehabilitation support.
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With integration of entrepreneurship ndself employment GSP has
been promoting social brand SWADHR aimed at provision of regular
employment of 3000 rural disabled people by the year 2015.
PROGRAMMES AND ACTIVITIES
VOCATIONAL TRAINING ENTER FOR BLIND AND HANDICAPPED,
BUDHODA
This is a residential training center for rural adult disabled person.Two
years training in handloom weaving nd life skills is given free of cost.
SWADHAR – Rehabilitation center for person with disability.
The center extends after training rehabilitation support.
Provision of stable employment opportunity through promotion of
common production centers(CPC) and support for marriage and
housing to eligible disabled persons is core function of the center.
APANG SAMATA MANCH
This is an advocacy and action forum for the protections of equal
opportunity rights for social and economic inclusion of persons with
disability.
KALAVISHKAR – An Orchestra of visually challenged people
It provides platform for talent exhibition to visually challenged
persons and also acts as media of sensitization and awareness
creation.
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SKETCHES
BAG
CAP
BLOUSE BAG
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SHOES
FILE BAG
BELT
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BOTTLE BAG
WALL HANGING
SMALL JHOLA
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POUCH
CLUTCH
TISSUE BOX COVER
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WAIST COAT
LAUNDRY BAG
PILLOW CASE
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BACK PACK
FANNY PACK
CLOCK
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NARENDRA WORKING
ON HIS WALL HANGING…
HARSHITA WORKING ON
HER BLOUSE COVER….
CHETNA WORKING ON HER
JACKET…..
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MINNU WORKING ON HER
PILLOWCASE…
NARENDRA WORKING ON
BELT…
HARSHITA WORKING ON HER
CAP……
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MARKET SURVEY
The retail sector in india is
booming.India is a vibrant country
full of crafts.
Dhurrie craft is known for its colors
,texture and the durabilty.
However the aim of Swadar
(the place where we did our
craft) is an ngo ,which aims
helping and support blind and other
handicapped people by teaching
them the weaving of dhurrie.
The main drawback with dhurrie is
that is has been only used as floor
mat and bed mats carpets,etc
which has made it hard for the
consumers to accept dhurrie used in
different types of dhurrie .
There is not many competitators .
These photos are of the latur market.
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FINAL PRODUCTS
FANNY PACK:
110 rupees
TARGET AREA – latur and
nearby rural area
ADVANTAGE




trendy and unique dhurrie bag
easy to carry
light weight
portable
keeps water cold
COSTING- 100 rs
 Raw materials : 10
 Labour : 50rupees
 Dhurrie : 50 rupees
 RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs
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BACKPACK:
250 rupees
TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural
area
ADVANTAGE




trendy and unique dhurrie bag
easy to carry
light weight
portable
keeps water cold
COSTING- 100 rs
 Raw materials : 50
 Labour : 50rupees
 Dhurrie : 150 rupees
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PILLOW
CASE:
130 rupees
TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area
ADVANTAGE



trendy and unique dhurrie bag
easy to carry
multipurpose
can be used as a laptop bag
Raw materials: 10
Labour: 30
Dhurrie: 90
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OVEN MUTTINS :
250 rs
TARGET AREA –latur and nearly rural areas
ADVANTAGE economical and durable
 doesn’t need any extra padding ,the dhurrie is thick enough to
stop the heat
 trendy and flamboyant
COSTING-250 rs
 LABOUR- 100
 FABRIC- 150rs
 RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs
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CAP:
60 rs
TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area
ADVANTAGE



trendy and unique dhurrie
durable
can be tailored to different sizes
keeps the summer heat away
COSTING-60 rs
 LABOUR- 20rs
 FABRIC- 40rs
 RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs
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BLOUSE BAG
200rs
TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area
ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie
 durable
 doesn’t need padding to support the bag
COSTING-200 rs
 LABOUR- 80rs
 FABRIC- 100rs
 RAW MATERIALS20rs(zip )
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JACKET350rs
Target areaMumbai and other
cities
ADVANTAGE Stylish shrug
(can be paired with Indian wear as well as casual wear like with
denim.
 give ethnic look a formal touch
bright colurs are attractive
can be used as a shrug or a jacket
purposely
 attractive and affordable with
beautiful colours
COSTING- 350 rs
 LABOUR- 100 rs
 FABRIC- 150rs
 RAW MATERIALS- 100 rs
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FILE FOLDER
60rs
TARGET AREA – latur and
nearby rural area
ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie
bag
 easy to carry
 multipurpose
 can be used as a laptop bag
COSTING- 60 rs
 LABOUR- 30rs
 FABRIC- 30rs
 RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs
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BOTTLE BAG –
100rs
TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural
area
ADVANTAGE




trendy and unique dhurrie bag
easy to carry
light weight
portable
keeps water cold
COSTING- 100 rs
 LABOUR- 40rs
 FABRIC- 60rs
 RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs
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POUCH –
150rs
TARGET AREA – latur and
nearby rural area
ADVANTAGE can be used by any age
group
 very smart and a trendy
look
 easy to carry alot of stuff
COSTING- 150 rs
 LABOUR- 80RS
 FABRIC- 70rs
 RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs
.
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WALL HANGING–
200rs
TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural
area
ADVANTAGEwall hangings are a perfect
example for storage
 very spacious and anything could
be kept inside for storage.
 From baby products to kitchen products.

COSTING- 200 rs
 LABOUR- 70RS
 FABRIC- 130rs
 RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs
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TISSUE BOX COVER –
200rs
TARGET AREA – Mumbai
ADVANTAGE tissue box covers can be used in various places, cars, kitchens,
washrooms etc.
 It gives a better look to those boxes and feels presentable.
COSTING- 200 rs
 LABOUR- 100rs
 FABRIC- 100rs
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