Dhurrie of Latur
Transcription
Dhurrie of Latur
Page 1 of 43 Page 2 of 43 Table of Contents objective of the craft………………….3 location……………………………………4 history of latur……………………………………5 the dhurrie- the craft…………………………6 history of dhurrie……………………………7 dhurrie of latur……………………………………14 raw materials and tools used…………………14 procedure …………………15 our experience…………………………17 swadar…………………18 sketches …………………21 students working in Swadar……………………27 market survey………………………29 final products and costing………………………30 Page 3 of 43 Objective To understand the hand craft of dhurrie of latur Maharashtra. To learn and apply the aesthesis of the craft into new innovative products. To help and guide the traditional craftsmen to develop new techniques New ways to promote their handcraft and learn new designs Page 4 of 43 LOCATION Latur District is situated in the south-eastern part of the Maharashtra. Page 5 of 43 HISTORY OF LATUR Latur has an ancient history, which probably dates to the Rashtrakuta period. It was home to a branch of Rashtrakutas which ruled the Deccan from 753 to 973 AD. Later in the 19th century, Latur became part of the independent princely state of Hyderabad. In 1905 it was merged with surrounding areas and renamed Latur tehsil, becoming part of Osmanabad district. Before 1948, Latur was a part of Hyderabad State under Nizam. The chief of Nizam's Razakar army, QasimRizwi, was from Latur. After Indian independence and the merger of Hyderabad with the Indian Union, Osmanabad became part of Bombay Province. In 1960, with the creation of Maharashtra, Latur became one of its districts. On August 16, 1982, a separate Latur district was carved out of Osmanabad district. Latur earthquake of 1993 Latur had a devastating intraplate earthquake on 30 September 1993 resulting in a huge loss of life. The earthquake measured only 6.3 on the Richter scale bu t more than 30,000 people were estimated to have died mainly due to poor construction of houses and village huts made of stones which just collapsed on people who were fast asleep in early morning hours. Page 6 of 43 Industry The city is a major sugarcane and edible oils, soyabean, grapes and mango production center. A fine blend of mango with locally grown mangoes was developed THE DHURRIE (a) A dhurrie in the workshop The dhurries are so named as the weft stripes are created by shredding of cotton fabric or pieces of sarees termed as chindis. Page 7 of 43 HISTORY OF DHURRIE The significance of animal skins and of ritual designs on floor paintings nad mats also applies to the design of dhurries. Like other indian art form,it assimilates new influences in its already extensive decorative vocabulary without losing its own identity.The charm of dhurries is in the simple treatment of the decorative details ,and the principle of symmetry and endless repetition. In most nineteenth century records ,the dhurrie is reffered to asa ‘dari’or ‘satranji’ in the north of india and as a ‘jamkbani’ in the south .The knotted carpet was probably introduced in india from Persia ,but in the case of dhurrie India had its own long i weaving industry, which was Page 8 of 43 renowned as its textile production.It is thought that the cotton rug fragment sound by ‘sir Aurel stein’ in 1901 at the ancient niya site in Turkestan in india and dated to the first to third centuries AD 13.The fragment is now in british museum and may be the earliest surviving example of an indian dhurrie. Trading between india and china via central asia was very active at this time. The pattern of stripes and alternating bands of swastika type motifs and the brilliant colours all support the Indian attribution. An analysis of dyes ,particularly the green, might be able to identify the plants used which could confirm the indian origin. In India people still think of the dhurrie solely in terms of the standard striped floor-covrering ,with two or three colour combinations-blue and white. these were frequently illustrated in indian miniatures and paintings and are among the most popular floor coverings today. Page 9 of 43 The origin and the popularity of the striped dhurrie are closely related.Stripes are normally first attempt by an inexperienced weaver to expand his skill through introducing another colour, combining different coloured yarns in alternating bands.The stripes in dhurries have also developed form the stripes in woven red mats,and from what seems to be specific hindu tradition where sadhusor ascetics are shown seated on tiger skins.In Ajanta in cave ,the dancers are shown sitting on a striped floor covering very probably a dhurrie and there are many miniatures from the seventeenth century onwards showing large striped floor covering in use for ceremonies and gatherings .Furthermore, abstract patterns whether striped or geometric appeal boyh to the hindu and muslim communities Page 10 of 43 and constritute the fundamental vocabulary of dhurrie designs. WEAVES Flatweaving is the process of interlacing a warp thread with a a weft thread. It is the simplest and the fastest way of producing a woven textile. Colours and patterns are introduced once the basic weaving knowledge is acquired. Flatweaving however unlike carpet-knotting limits the possibility of creating intricate patterns and this had a great influence on the design of a rug or dhurrie. The basic weaves, and the more complicateddovetailing, siltweave, eccentric wefting. Slevedges are the side finishes of the dhurrie the strength of Page 11 of 43 the selvedges is important as dhurrie have to withstand strong wear and tear. Tassels or fringes prevent the dhurrie from the fraying. The most common techniques is the warp loop fringe, basically the twisting of the warp threads together when the end beam of the loom is removed from the warps and the loops are cut. With the plaited fringe, warp threads are plaited into bands. The net fringe is favoured in village production, and here thw wraps are knotted together into groups, then subdivided and knotted again. THE LOOM There has been very litte change over the centuries in the process of weaving adhurrie.Three different types of looms are used.The most common is the standard horizontal handloom, favoured in jails and workshops:smaller were used in village production .In jail workshops the horizontal loom is operated with up to seven prisoners in a row. Page 12 of 43 MATERIAL AND TECHNIQUES Weaving in India is often alluded to in the vedas .In the Ajanta cave paintings coloured stripes were probably among the most ancient form of ornamentation once the art of plain weaving had been mastered. According to Strabo, when alexander the great arrived in india in 327 bc,the greeks noticed that the people wore garments made of ‘tree wool’ or ‘wool produced in nuts’.cotton which is native to india was cheaper and cooler than wool,and its availability and strength made it a favrioute with weavers for it provided study warps even when a carpet or a dhurrie was made of wool and its shape when woven and could be very finely spun and woven-the prayer dhurrie of the nizam of Hyderabad was so finely woven it almost felt like silk. CONCLUSION It is very difficult to get a precise and definite picture of old indian dhurries because of the patchy nature of the evidence and the chequred history of the dhurrie. There is no doubt Page 13 of 43 however that the dhurrie deserves its place in the history of the arts and crafts of the Indian subcontinent because of its originality and unique nature. Intricate patterns and original designs have shone through.The Indian dhurrie is no longer synonymous only with the striped flatweave –the nature of the commission still dictates the quality of the finished product. Page 14 of 43 DHURRIE OF LATUR A striking feature of the dhurrie is its warp is spun cotton yarn while weft is unspun cotton (chindi) that gives dhurrie (b)the sarees being cut into strips RAW MATERIALS USED The dhurrie is weaved of old sarees collected from nearby villages. cotton yarn ornamental decorative zips waste fabrics leather and other contempory fabric (10%) The process work before weaving of dhurrie A striped look .The dhurrie is identifiable by their characteristics stripes in bold solid colours of red Page 15 of 43 ,blue, green, purple etc .The dhurries are mostly produced in Maharashtra. The dhurrie making process is flexible and horizontal loom can be adjusted to make large or small dhurries. The adaptability of the dhurrie making process has led to many inventions. In process of dhurrie making the yarns are supposed to be tight while weaving. The warp is stretched between two horizontal beams,which can be adjusted according to the size of dhurrie required. The chindi is inserted in the warp yarns with hands according to the pattern. Dhurrie can easily be produced in many colours and sizes. Dhurrie weaving in Maharashtra has come out as an important economic activity .These dhurries most commonly adorn the living rooms and bed rooms and find very important use in the prayer rooms PROCEDURE First, the old sarees are collected. These are then cut into thin strips by a cutter which runs on power. Then, combinations are made with this strips, which are tied together in bundles and then given to the weavers. the old sarees are collected from a nearby places, a lot of people also denote the sarees to the NGO then these old sarees are properly are stitched together. The end of one saree is stitched together forming a continuous thaan of fabric. Page 16 of 43 The dhurrie is then carefully folded to a fan fold neatly placed one fold on top of another The ends of the folded saree is hand stitched with a needle so that the folds of the fabric don’t move The fabric is then neatly placed on the table with weights, and cut into equal strips. These strips are given to the weavers The weavers use these strips in weft instead of yarns When the weavers pull the reed towards them, the saree strips crumble to form a horizontal strip. That is what makes dhurrie so colourful and unique. Page 17 of 43 OUR EXPERIENCE IN LATUR Our experience in Latur was quite memorable. We were all astonished by how these people are so positive in life that they work to earn their own living without any complains. On the other side, we see people who are totally fit and who beg for money. On the second day of our craft documentation, there were two new entries in the NGO. So, we also got to see how they start with the training where they are first made to get used to the environment around them and how they struggle hard but learn the art of weaving for sustaining their own lives. swadar weavers in process of weaving Page 18 of 43 SWADAR (E) the founder of swadar Aims Striving for human development of visually and physically challenged youth, women, And rural deprived sections Rural face of disability Lack of access to education and employment is common scene with rural disabled all the more worse with high vulnerability. Social support has been shirking living dependent like disabled abandon. Disabled women are not only victims of Page 19 of 43 impairment but also poverty and poverty and patriarchy. More than 65% disabled live in rural India and their deprivation and exclusion due to lack of apt rehabilitation services is serious concern as they constitute 2% of total population. JUST NEED AN OPPORTUNITY The rural disabled person has proved their resilience and positive force for self reliant life. The only facilitation needed is of opportunity. The opportunity to learn, earn and live life with dignity. SWADHAR ECONOMIC INCLUSION WITH DIGNITY The deprivation of rural disabled can be well addressed with provision of capacity based employment and social rehabilitation support. Page 20 of 43 With integration of entrepreneurship ndself employment GSP has been promoting social brand SWADHR aimed at provision of regular employment of 3000 rural disabled people by the year 2015. PROGRAMMES AND ACTIVITIES VOCATIONAL TRAINING ENTER FOR BLIND AND HANDICAPPED, BUDHODA This is a residential training center for rural adult disabled person.Two years training in handloom weaving nd life skills is given free of cost. SWADHAR – Rehabilitation center for person with disability. The center extends after training rehabilitation support. Provision of stable employment opportunity through promotion of common production centers(CPC) and support for marriage and housing to eligible disabled persons is core function of the center. APANG SAMATA MANCH This is an advocacy and action forum for the protections of equal opportunity rights for social and economic inclusion of persons with disability. KALAVISHKAR – An Orchestra of visually challenged people It provides platform for talent exhibition to visually challenged persons and also acts as media of sensitization and awareness creation. Page 21 of 43 SKETCHES BAG CAP BLOUSE BAG Page 22 of 43 SHOES FILE BAG BELT Page 23 of 43 BOTTLE BAG WALL HANGING SMALL JHOLA Page 24 of 43 POUCH CLUTCH TISSUE BOX COVER Page 25 of 43 WAIST COAT LAUNDRY BAG PILLOW CASE Page 26 of 43 BACK PACK FANNY PACK CLOCK Page 27 of 43 NARENDRA WORKING ON HIS WALL HANGING… HARSHITA WORKING ON HER BLOUSE COVER…. CHETNA WORKING ON HER JACKET….. Page 28 of 43 MINNU WORKING ON HER PILLOWCASE… NARENDRA WORKING ON BELT… HARSHITA WORKING ON HER CAP…… Page 29 of 43 MARKET SURVEY The retail sector in india is booming.India is a vibrant country full of crafts. Dhurrie craft is known for its colors ,texture and the durabilty. However the aim of Swadar (the place where we did our craft) is an ngo ,which aims helping and support blind and other handicapped people by teaching them the weaving of dhurrie. The main drawback with dhurrie is that is has been only used as floor mat and bed mats carpets,etc which has made it hard for the consumers to accept dhurrie used in different types of dhurrie . There is not many competitators . These photos are of the latur market. Page 30 of 43 FINAL PRODUCTS FANNY PACK: 110 rupees TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie bag easy to carry light weight portable keeps water cold COSTING- 100 rs Raw materials : 10 Labour : 50rupees Dhurrie : 50 rupees RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs Page 31 of 43 BACKPACK: 250 rupees TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie bag easy to carry light weight portable keeps water cold COSTING- 100 rs Raw materials : 50 Labour : 50rupees Dhurrie : 150 rupees Page 32 of 43 PILLOW CASE: 130 rupees TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie bag easy to carry multipurpose can be used as a laptop bag Raw materials: 10 Labour: 30 Dhurrie: 90 Page 33 of 43 Page 34 of 43 OVEN MUTTINS : 250 rs TARGET AREA –latur and nearly rural areas ADVANTAGE economical and durable doesn’t need any extra padding ,the dhurrie is thick enough to stop the heat trendy and flamboyant COSTING-250 rs LABOUR- 100 FABRIC- 150rs RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs Page 35 of 43 CAP: 60 rs TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie durable can be tailored to different sizes keeps the summer heat away COSTING-60 rs LABOUR- 20rs FABRIC- 40rs RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs Page 36 of 43 BLOUSE BAG 200rs TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie durable doesn’t need padding to support the bag COSTING-200 rs LABOUR- 80rs FABRIC- 100rs RAW MATERIALS20rs(zip ) Page 37 of 43 JACKET350rs Target areaMumbai and other cities ADVANTAGE Stylish shrug (can be paired with Indian wear as well as casual wear like with denim. give ethnic look a formal touch bright colurs are attractive can be used as a shrug or a jacket purposely attractive and affordable with beautiful colours COSTING- 350 rs LABOUR- 100 rs FABRIC- 150rs RAW MATERIALS- 100 rs Page 38 of 43 FILE FOLDER 60rs TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie bag easy to carry multipurpose can be used as a laptop bag COSTING- 60 rs LABOUR- 30rs FABRIC- 30rs RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs Page 39 of 43 BOTTLE BAG – 100rs TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE trendy and unique dhurrie bag easy to carry light weight portable keeps water cold COSTING- 100 rs LABOUR- 40rs FABRIC- 60rs RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs Page 40 of 43 POUCH – 150rs TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGE can be used by any age group very smart and a trendy look easy to carry alot of stuff COSTING- 150 rs LABOUR- 80RS FABRIC- 70rs RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs . Page 41 of 43 WALL HANGING– 200rs TARGET AREA – latur and nearby rural area ADVANTAGEwall hangings are a perfect example for storage very spacious and anything could be kept inside for storage. From baby products to kitchen products. COSTING- 200 rs LABOUR- 70RS FABRIC- 130rs RAW MATERIALS- 0 rs Page 42 of 43 TISSUE BOX COVER – 200rs TARGET AREA – Mumbai ADVANTAGE tissue box covers can be used in various places, cars, kitchens, washrooms etc. It gives a better look to those boxes and feels presentable. COSTING- 200 rs LABOUR- 100rs FABRIC- 100rs Page 43 of 43