Spring 2009 - British V8

Transcription

http://www.britishv8.org/British-V8-Current-Issue.htm
MGB GT V8 Racers Meet at Virginia International Raceway (photo: Curtis Jacobson)
BritishV8 Magazine
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Current Issue
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Table of Contents
Covering News & Events from January through June 2009 (Volume 17, Issue 1)
734 pages, 1342 photos
Main Editorial Section (including this table of contents)
In the Driver's Seat
53 pages, 97 photos
by Curtis Jacobson
Triumph TR3 plus 4 (part 2)
by Randy Schultz
Valve Job Basics
by Greg Myers
All About PCV Systems
by Jim Blackwood
How To: Install Rear Disc Brakes on a TR6
New and Improved Chassis for Triumph TR6
by Don Watson
by Curtis Jacobson
Please support the sponsoring companies who make BritishV8 possible, including:
Special Section: Factory and Costello MGB V8's (part 4)
53 pages, 58 photos
MGB-GT-V8 Prototype Number 096
by Clive Wagerfield
MGB GT V8 Parts Catalog
(Moss Motors)
University Motors' MGB GT V8 Ad
(University Motors UK)
MGB GT V8
(Classic Car)
A Tale of Two Vees
(Classic Car)
Classic Choice: MGB GT V8
(Thoroughbred and Classic)
Special Racing Section: (part 1)
Experience Matters - A Racer's Dream Car
MGB GT V8: Buy It, Install Engine, Go Racing
Physics Teacher Demonstrates Newton's Second Law
by Philip Herrick
A Close-Up Look at One of the Great Can-Am Cars
by Curtis Jacobson
A Close-Up Look at One of the Great Formula 5000 Cars
by Curtis Jacobson
NOJ 391 Replica: Bill Thumel's Austin Healey 100
by Curtis Jacobson
Speedy Service: Elva Couriers Deliver Victories
by Curtis Jacobson
When Less is More: 1300 Pounds of Marcos Magic
MG's EX186 Prototype: The Ultimate "Modified" MGA
by Curtis Jacobson
Kent Prather's Six Time SCCA National Championship Winning MGA
The B-Stingers Race Team's MGB Vintage Racer
The Marcus Jones / Don Munoz MGB Racecar
John Targett's MGB Racecar
Alan Tosler's MGB Racecar
When More is Better: Pre-War Morgan Gets a Fourth Wheel
by Curtis Jacobson
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To contribute to our operating budget, please click here and follow the instructions.
(Suggested contribution is twenty bucks per year. Feel free to give more!)
"How It Was Done" Articles:
#230
Mike Alexander
(Richmond VA, 73 MG MGB, Buick 215 V8, T5 5-speed)
#231
Graham Bingham
(Derbyshire UK, 74 Triumph Spitfire, Rover 3.5 V8, LT77 5-speed)
#232
#233
Richard Bondy
Brad Chapman
(Northville MI, 61 Austin Healey Sprite, Ford 2.0L I4 EFI, T9 5-speed)
(Bicton Australia, 75 MG MGB-GT, Rover 3.5 V8, Toyota 5-speed)
BritishV8 Magazine (XVII/1)
Copyright 2009. All rights reserved.
http://www.britishv8.org/British-V8-Current-Issue.htm
#234
Scott Costanzo
(Dublin OH, 68 MG MGB, GM 3.1 V6 EFI, T5 5-speed)
#235
Joe Curry
(Sahuarita AZ, 63 Triumph Spitfire, Honda 2.0L I4 EFI, Honda 6-speed)
#236
James Englehart
(Ault CO, 67 MG MGB, Buick 231 V6, T50 5-speed)
#237
#238
Bryant Ercanbrack
BobHertz
(Eagle Mountain UT, 64 MG MGB, Ford 289 V8, 4-speed)
(Seattle WA, 79 MG MGB, Ford 302 V8, Tremec 5-speed)
#239
Laurie Houghton
(Adelaide Australia, 73 MG MGB, Rover 3.9L V8, Toyota 5-speed)
#240
Dave Kirkman
(Indianapolis IN, 80 MG MGB, Ford 302/342 V8, Tremec 5-speed)
#241
Wayne Kube
(Plano TX, 79 MG MGB, Rover 3.9L V8 EFI, T5 5-speed)
#242
#243
Ian Osborne
Bernie Posey
(Dorset UK, 54 Austin Healey 100, Chevy 383 V8, TKO600 5-speed)
(Elyria OH, 79 MG MGB, Rover 3.9L V8, T5 5-speed)
#244
Mike Reynolds
(Beaumont Alberta, 74 Triumph Spitfire, Chevy 4.3/4.8 V6, 200-4R auto)
#245
Wayne Rippy
(Summerton SC, 74.5 MG MGB GT, Olds 215 V8, LT77 5-speed)
#246
#247
Steve Sanett
Mike Sullivan
(Chatsworth CA, 62 Daimler SP-250, Chevy 427 V8, T10 4-speed)
(Chesapeake VA, 85 Marcos Mantula, Rover 3.5 V8 EFI, LT77 5-speed)
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Drivers-Seat-XVII-1.htm
(the editor's car)
In The Driver's Seat (Volume XVII Issue 1, January - June 2009)
by: Curtis Jacobson
You're reading the one and only car magazine that's focused on serious performance upgrades for classic British sports cars. We also feature British cars that originally came with V8
engines. Our mission is to provide a diverse range of quality content: entertaining, educational, technical, and inspirational. Other websites and magazines "sell the sizzle", but we serve the
whole steak. We use as many large, close-up photos as it takes to tell each story completely.
Our niche of the British car hobby isn't the largest, but it's by far the most vibrant and the fastest growing. The term "resto-mod" describes it: today's enthusiasts want to combine classic
styling with modern performance, and they demand modern reliability.
I wrote in my last "Driver's Seat" column that bundling articles together makes a lot more sense for a printed newsletter than it does for a huge, free, online resource. It clearly makes sense to
redesign this website so articles can be published continuously throughout the year - rewarding readers with more timely articles - but I haven't found time to implement that change yet. So,
here we have yet another oversized bundle of articles that's far too large for anyone to read and digest in one sitting: 45 articles and over 1300 color photos!
Frankly, this edition of BritishV8 is extremely overdue... so without further ado we're going to "publish" it. Coverage of two important events: our annual meet and the historic gathering of MGB
GT V8 race cars at Virginia International Raceway - both which occurred in June - will have to be delayed a little longer..
BritishV8 2009
June 7 - 10
Durham, NC
Full coverage of this year's annual meet will be published soon. I'll just give you a quick summary here. Meeting coordinators Max Fulton and Emily Turner delivered a fantastically packed
schedule of exciting and unique activities. Everything on the agenda went off without hitch. Our time was filled from Sunday evening though Wednesday night. We enjoyed informative Tech
Sessions plus a "show and tell" session where we got a nice variety of conversions onto the car lifts at Flying Circus English Cars. We continued from there to a chassis dynomometer where
many of us tested and quantified the performance of our cars. (A few of us discovered ways to improve our tuning on the dyno.) We also toured a truly top-flight machine shop and a race car
prep shop. As a bonus, some of us snuck in a tour of a vintage race car restoration shop. Most of our group enjoyed an afternoon of karting at Virginia International Raceway's go-cart track.
There were various dining and socializing events, and we wrapped things up with particularly wonderful closing banquet and auction. Again, full coverage of BritishV8 2009 is forthcoming.
Five MGB GT V8 racecars recently met at Virginia International Raceway
Stay tuned to BritishV8 for full coverage of this historic development.
Announcing www.BritishRaceCar.com!
I was interested in making some suspension modifications on my MGB, and I wondered how MGB racers had addressed the problem. A careful internet search revealed that there is no
website anywhere in the world that shows a broad cross-section of British race cars as methodically as BritishV8 shows British hot rods.
Why not extend Kurt Schley's "How It Was Done" methodology to race cars? BritishRaceCar.com is a brand new website with exactly that purpose. We'll "present British race cars in
greater technical detail than you'll find elsewhere. Some pithy historical notes for context... but British Racecar is really all about design and construction, and especially about how cars
have been modified for racing." I'm confident existing BritishV8 readers will enjoy our new sister website, and that BritishRaceCar.com will help BritishV8 reach more readers, advertisers,
and enthusiasts too.
The BritishV8 Forum Continues its Remarkable Growth
How big is the BritishV8 message board? Already, over 10,000 messages have been posted on over 1300 topics, and over 500 different registered users have participated in these
discussions. Why is our forum growing so fast? Yes, frankly, the BritishV8 message board is easier to use than many other forums. Yes, frankly, it does do a better job of displaying
photos. However, the fundamental reason for our forum's success is its community: more friendly, more helpful, more diverse, and more universally enthusiastic about radical performance
upgrades to classic British sports cars.
Enjoying this online magazine? BritishV8 is funded through the generous support of readers like you!
BritishV8 is a Volunteer Effort
BritishV8 Magazine and website represent the work of many people. Please take a moment to reflect on all the folks who've contributed articles, photos, and information. The website
couldn't thrive without them. Many thanks are also due to all the financial supporters who have voluntarily chipped in funds to help us keep meet expenses. If it weren't for their support,
we'd certainly have to sell subscriptions (and that would severely limit our ability to reach new enthusiasts.) A full and up-to-date listing of financial supporters can always be found here:
V.I.P. Contributor List.
Now More Than Ever: PLEASE THANK OUR VENDOR SPONSORS!
The biggest portion of our operating budget comes from advertisers. Our vendor sponsors are businessmen, and they NEED to KNOW their advertising investments are returning
meaningful exposure and good will. They'll believe it when they hear it from customers like you.
Every single one of our sponsors is friendly, knowledgeable, and will help you with anything they can.
Now I've said this before but I'll say it again: to improve the performance of your car, pick up your telephone and start asking BritishV8 sponsors what cool stuff they've got. They're
continuously developing and introducing new products. It's remarkable how much of their best stuff is under-advertised. "Click" on their ads! Call them. Ask questions. Here's the contact
info you need: BritishV8's Handy Vendor Directory!
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Are you in the British sports car performance trade? Y ou should be listed here too! (Here's info about advertising.)
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/TR3-Plus-4-part2.htm
Randy Schultz's Triumph TR3 Plus 4 Project, Part 2
as published in BritishV8 Magazine, Volume XVII Issue 1, July 2009
by: Randall Schultz
It's finally finished! After logging over 2800 hours, it's hard to believe there is now actually an automobile where there was none before. After the
countless hours of designing, fabricating, and assembling, all that's left is to actually drive and enjoy the finished product.
In an earlier BritishV8 Magazine article, I documented the majority of the build of my TR3 Plus 4. (The "Plus 4" part came about because I cut a
Triumph TR3 body down the center and widened it four inches so it would fit on a later TR6 frame and accomodate both the TR6's rack-and-pinion
steering and its independent rear suspension.) This article is about the final details. It picks up where the first article concludes. I've tried to focus on
things that might be useful to others who are starting their own major projects.
So, where does "part two" of the story logically start?
The Nissan engine fired up instantly. However, the first installation problem showed up almost as instantly. The return line from the fuel injection
system to the tank was located too close to the suction line of the charcoal canister, which instantly became fuel logged. After replacing the canister
and re-routing the canister connection point to the fuel tank, that problem was solved.
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Getting an aftermarket (Classic Instruments) speedometer to work with the Nissan PCM was a challenge too. The speedometer is designed to work
with a simple digital pulse generator, located on the transmission. I initially assumed that the Nissan PCM could use the same signal, but in fact it
requires a differently "conditioned" signal from what the gauge expects to see. A friend who teaches this stuff at a local technical college saved the
day. We mocked the whole thing up using a drill press turning at a known RPM driving the pulse generator, connected to the gauge, also
connected to a digital readout of the pulse waves. This is how we discovered the original pulse to the Nissan's PCM was not the same as the pulse
delivered to the gauge. Our solution was to strip out the original PC board from the Nissan gauge cluster and connect it in parallel with the
aftermarket speedometer. People who see the completed project rarely realize the research and development involved!
Come to think of it, there were a couple other challenging engine installation details to work out. When I reversed the oil pan (see previous article) I
realized that the position of the dipstick would no longer work, because it now pointed to the low end of the pan. Because the dipstick runs through
the engine block, I knew I had an issue. Drilling the block for a new location for the dipstick was not going to be an option, so I decided to connect
an external tube to the side of the reversed pan near the bottom of the pan. Oil in the pan would obviously be the same level in the tub, and this
became the new home for a slightly modified-length dipstick. Putting in the exact capacity oil in the crankcase, seeing where it came to on the
dipstick and making a line on the stick indicating "full" was all I needed.
On the engine's induction side, I designed an aluminum air-box to house the engine air filter and serve as a connection point for the MAF ("mass
airflow") sensor. Since space was really tight for this, the only point where the MAF could join the air box was at a corner. To make it even more
challenging, the MAF sensor wanted a round mount section, and the corner of the planned box was square. I needed to map out the point of
intersection where the round tube met the square corner.
My solution was to construct a simple shop-built layout tool specifically for the job. I took a length of the same tubing I planned to use for the
actual part, surrounded it with as many sixteenth inch welding rod pieces as it took to go around its circumferance, and secured the rods in place
with a couple of rubberbands. The rods extended past the end of the tube by a few inches. Holding the tube at the angle and location that I
wanted to make the connection, I simply pushed the whole affair into the corner of my cardboard mock-up. The rods slid to conform with the
mating surface, and it was easy to trace out the contour of the intersection on the three surfaces that comprised the corner of the box. Very
accurate cut-lines efficiently facilitated a tight connection. With no gaps greater than one sixteenth of an inch, it was easy to TIG weld the parts
together.
On the engine's other side, I had to create a unique exhaust downpipe arrangement. I used the original manifold for space reasons, plus I used
the first six inches of Nissan's original downpipe (which included the bung for the 02 sensor). As is always the case, the required bends to thread
from "here" to "there" were a bit crazy.
Custom flex-tube tool for exhaust system layout. The tape wraps indicate cut-lines for planned welded joints.
Again, the solution started with a special shop-built layout tool. I went down to the local hardware store and bought three feet of water pipe
insulation wrap for one inch pipe. I then removed the flex pipe from our shop's parts cleaner solvent tank - it's the pipe that the solvent comes
out of. It can be bent to any configuration required and stay put. (Like a gooseneck lamp... there must be a name for this stuff!) Next, I pushed
the flex tube through the insulation wrap. Presto! The result was a flexible header pipe that's prefect for mock-ups. The outside diameter
worked especially nicely because I could stick one end into the existing downpipe end and model the rest as required.
The next two photos show the completed custom exhaust downpipe as finally installed. I had both the manifold and the downpipe ceramico
coated; the finish looks great plus it's supposed to lower the surface temperature by as much as 300 F. Note the self-adhesive mastic sounddeadening sheeting applied to the body in strategic places. I learned that the stuff that performs well also costs the most.
The collector pipe had to go through the frame. I knew this from the early stages of the project, and had cut the elliptical holes way back. To
retain the strength of the frame rail, I inserted and welded-in a formed metal pass-thru tube. The collector is welded directly to stainless flex
pipe that is wrapped for heat control. The rest of the exhaust is hard-mounted and passes through the frame two more times on its way to the
rear muffler.
Incidentally, you can also see the rear brake proportioning valve mounted on the frame rail. This valve allows front versus rear brake bias
to be adjusted with the turn of a knob. I have this mounted to the frame rail, and the knob emerges just above the carpet on the driver's
side floor. That brings us to the driver's compartment... (For more information about the brake system, see below.)
I used Porsche 914 seats because they're well-made, lightweight, and narrow enough to fit into tight spaces. However, they gave me
problems: their integrated headrests looked too modern for my car plus they didn't allow racecar-style dual shoulder belts to pass through.
I removed the upholstery and cut the fiberglass headrests off the Porsche seat frames. At a local junkyard, I found removable headrests
from a Nissan Quest that looked like they might integrate with the styling and functionality I was after. I built a mounting tube assembly and
riveted it to the fiberglass frames, prior to having the seats reupholstered. Grommets at the top of the re-worked seats facilitate headrest
removal, and racing shoulder belts pass through neatly. Now, the headrests can be adjusted, and they can even be removed for
installation of a tonneau cover. I didn't have to add ugly bulges to the tonneau cover!
I saved a lot of money making my own patterns for the carpeting. I asked the owner of the upholstery company if I could do this and he
replied: "as long as they fit!" Well no one else cares as much that they do as me, so off I went. I used brown paper from a 36" roll and
made my patterns to fit edge to edge and butts at all corners. The carpet guy said he would decide what overlapped what and by how
much. When I was finished he came and checked out my work. After checking every piece for fit he told me I was hired. We used snaps
to hold all the horizontal pieces down, so they can easily be removed after an unexpected rainstorm or for service.
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One product I've used extensively throughout this project is 1/8" perforated aluminum sheet. This sheet is available with various
combinations of hole-size and spacing, but the options are all 1/8" thick. I used the perforated sheet between the trunk and seating
area, for the speaker grille panels and the subwoofer grille, for the dash center and heater grille, for the accelerator pedal scuff panel,
and the glove box. It's a soft alloy that cuts easily on a table saw with a carbide blade, or on a band saw with a skip-tooth blade, and it
sands easily too. The holes provide easy opportunities for mounting the panels. Did I mention I love this product? The only challenge is
how to trim cut edges for a finished appearance. My solution was to take engine vacuum tubing and carefully cut along the length to
create inexpensive, custom, flexible rubber trim. I simply glue the trim to the edge of the panel using weatherstrip adhesive. This works
very well, but can be a bit messy until you get the hang of it.
I really enjoyed designing and making a subwoofer box for the audio system. I selected two 8" drivers, and I decided to build a
ported enclosure for efficiency. From the published specifications of the drivers, I calculated the optimal volume for the enclosure.
(By optimizing enclosure volume and port size, low frequency sound from the port is phased to reinforce the bass output of the
drivers. Ported subwoofers can thus be made louder than similarly sized closed box subwoofers. However, to do the job right you
need to know the natural frequency of whatever drivers you use.)
My first plan was to build a removable speaker enclosure and attach it behind the fuel tank. I had the room, as mentioned in the
previous article, having re-located the tank closer to the seats by in-filling the bodywork and turning the tank 180 degrees. This mod
gave me another 12 inches of trunk space. The issue was that I really hated to give it up for a subwoofer box! The solution was to
use part of the spare tire compartment to create the sub volume. In the TR3, the spare tire lives in its own space, just under the
trunk floor, but completely separate from it. I determined the size of the sub's front panel based on calculating the volume of the
spare tire cavity and matching it to the required volume for the subs. This panel was cut out and replaced with a 3/4" aircraft
plywood panel mounted under the trunk floor panel. This was sealed and screwed-down from the top. The drivers were flush
mounted in the panel and covered with a grille. The required dimensions of the sub still allowed for about 8 inches of space for
storage of items such as the jack, oil, and - you guessed it - a can of "Fix-a-Flat". The division between the two spaces was
another carefully fitted and sealed piece of aircraft plywood. Anyone using any form of wood in builds should be sure to seal all
surfaces with durable coatings, not just visible surfaces.
I wanted a remote/hidden trunk release that could be actuated from inside the car. The wrecking yard once again provided a neat
solution. Many early to mid-90's Honda models use a cable-operated trunk lid release mechanism. A keyed lock is part of the
release mechanism inside the car. It's very cool, and totally adaptable to custom applications.
I mounted the Nissan PCM on the passenger foot-well. The wiring harness runs from the main breaker panel to the rear of the
car through this area too, so I considered making a protective aluminum cover for these components. However, I was concerned
aluminum wouldn't match the rest of the car's interior.
The vacuum-formed panel is 1/8" thick black ABS plastic with a gloss "hair cell" finish on one side.
My solution was to make a formed panel from rugged one eighth inch thick ABS plastic. I borrowed a vacuum-forming machine
for the job, and made a mold in the shape I wanted out of wooden blocks attached to plywood. Using putty, these blocks were
filleted where they met the board. I drilled a series of eighth inch holes through the base-board about one half inch apart near
these filleted corners. The board was sealed onto a vacuum box mounted underneath. The heated ABS sheet was then
placed over the form, held by a perimeter framework. The vacuum machine allows the entire form and vacuum box to be
raised up and into the softened plastic at the same time that vacuum is applied. Excess material was then trimmed off and the
panel fitted in place. I'm happy with the result, and would encourage others to experiment with these techniques.
I constructed the male wooden form shown here. You can see the drilled holes that the vacuum pulls through.
About 7 degrees of draft angle is built-in so that molded parts can be pulled out of the mold.
(Note: the part has been removed, trimmed, and placed back in the mold for the photos shown at right.)
Vacuum forming machines are relatively simple and can be built at home. I imagine using a modified electric stove for the heat
source and building a roll out rack to clamp the heated ABS sheet. A vacuum pump with about 20 inches of vacuum is needed,
as is a way to raise the mold up into the softened plastic as the vacuum is applied. Vacuum forming materials are purchased in
flat sheets. They're available in a wide range of thicknesses, colors, materials, and finishes. I'm sure vacuum forming would be
a great process for many interior molding details.
I had a lot of issues getting ride height and fender well clearance just right. I ended up with custom springs that have
worked out well. I'm using stock 15" Nissan 240SX alloy wheels with Yokohama "S Drive" 195-55R performance radials. I
wanted a taller tire, but I couldn't find one that offered comparable performance, so from my aesthetic point of view the car
is too low by about an inch. The easiest fix would be a taller tire, as I have enough clearance in the fender openings. I
could potentially use a larger wheel, but I really don't like the current trend of driving on rubber bands!
On the road the car handles much like a set-up Triumph TR6, which it is. The stiffer springs and shocks, as well as the
large front sway bar really flatten out body roll. The adjustable rear camber set-up by Richard Goodparts works really well
and setting it up was absolutely easy. This system also allows for slight changes to ride height by equal adjustments at
o
both points. The shorter front springs did not allow me to get exactly the front geometry I wanted. I was after 3/4 negative
o
o
camber and even with all the lower control arm shims out, my front camber was still a little too negative at 1.2 . I wanted 3
o
caster, but had to settle for 2.2 . The TR6 front suspension doesn't allow for big changes, and the only way to get more out
of it would have been to design and make an adjustable upper control arm mounting system. Perhaps down the road... The
solid steering rack blocks I made up did exactly what they were supposed to do: they translate road feel back to the
steering wheel. The Bilstein custom rear shocks by work great too (and the shop that provided them was quick and easy to
work with.)
The brake system works very well too! Frankly, the TR3 Plus Four has a whole lot of braking capacity for such a light
vehicle: as shown in some detail in the previous article, Toyota Four-Runner front brakes squeeze Toyota Cressida vented
rotors, and Nissan 240SX disc brakes are installed at the rear. What about the rest of the brake system?
This unusual brake pedal mechanism kept pedal effort (i.e. mechanical advantage ratio),
pedal stroke, and master cylinder piston travel all similar to stock.
A Mazda Miata master cylinder and a Suzuki Swift booster are actuated with a custom pedal linkage.
As shown earlier in this article, a Summit Racing proportioning valve is accessible from the driver seat. It acts on the rear
brake circuit, and facilitates tuning of front-to-rear brake bias on the fly (for example, to accomodate a change in fuel load
or adapt for wet road surfaces.)
parking brake cables
Nissan differential on custom fabricated mounts, with adapter plates that mate to regular TR6 halfshafts.
Acceleration is brisk. The Nissan KA24 engine has a lot of bottom end torque, and it's not afraid to rev up to the mid
6000's. The engine's power is delivered very smoothly in comparison to the original Triumph tractor engine, and the
5-speed Nissan transmission is wonderfully smooth too.
The car gets a lot of attention on the road. I need to rehearse some fast answers to what are becoming popular
questions. What do you say when people ask "What kind of a car is that?" or says "I used to have one just like that!"
How about: "It's so nice to see one of these restored back to original." Should I make or break their day?
My conclusion is that we are building hybrids. With this term now applied through popular culture with respect to multi
power sources within the same vehicle, the real definition of the word has been clouded. And besides hybrid sounds
so much better than bastard!
Hybrid \ˈhī-brəd\ n. 1: a crossbred animal or plant; an offspring of two different breeds, genera or
varieties.
This article is part two of a two-part series! If you enjoyed this article, you'll enjoy its predecessor:
Randy Schultz's Triumph "TR3 Plus 4" Project, Part 1
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Randall Schultz. Views expressed are those of the
author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
Photos by Randall Schultz for the BritishV8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Basic-Valve-Job.htm
Basic Valve Job
by: Greg Myer
The head is one of the most important areas of an engine in terms of performance. A good valve job is critical for whatever you want out of your motor, whether it's
better fuel economy, power, or just plain reliability. After years of use, for the valves to work at their designed capacity or better, a good bit of work must be done.
There are a number of steps that must be taken, and several ways to do each of them. Some ways are better than others and some heads require special
treatment.
After removing the heads, they need to be disassembled. You can do this in your garage if you have a valve spring compressor. You'll need a compressor
designed for the type of head you're working on. An inexpensive lever style or a C-clamp style will work on many standard V8's: Ford, Chevy, Buick, or Rover. Late
model overhead cam heads require something different. If you like, the machine shop of your choice can remove the valves and also reassemble your heads after
machine work is complete; all you'll need to do is torque them back on.
After dissassembly, the next order of business is cleaning the heads. Cast iron heads can be put in a hot tank of strong chemicals. Tanks for aluminum are
available in some shops. They use less heat and different chemicals, so as not to damage anything. Other types of cleaning can be done too. Cleaning
machines that throw shot on the head seems to work very well.
Next comes checking the heads for cracks. Again there are various ways of proceeding. Cast iron heads can be magnafluxed: a strong magnetic field is created
and will cause the powder to collect in any crack, making it quite visible. Neat! Aluminum can be checked with one of several methods. There are usually three
or four steps involved. First a special cleaner is used, then a penetrating dye is applied, and next a developer. Some of these will produce results in plain room
light, while most require a black light, or ultra-violet.
If a crack is found, find out your options. Most cracks extend from one valve seat to the next. Will a new set of hardened seats fix it? If not, and you are working
on a set of standard, easy to obtain heads, it may be prudent to start over. Ford and Chevy heads fall into this category, unless they are specialty, aftermarket
heads. Aluminum heads can be welded and remachined. This could, however, get expensive depending on the proper way to proceed. Many cast iron heads
will need to heated in an oven first and welded while hot. This can be tricky, and while I've had it done, I would only let someone with plenty of experience
attempt it. In my case it was for a heavily ported 4 cylinder head that was from a factory turbocharged application. Not easily replaced. We had excellent results.
If you are unsure of any area of your heads, have them pressure tested. Better to find out now than after they are installed and the motor is in the car.
Now on to the machining process... Before the seats are touched, the guides must be established as correct. They must be both the proper inside dimension,
centered and not out of round at either end. The latter is sometimes the case as the rockers have a tendency to push the valve stem away when acting on it.
Guides with a little wear can be knurled and reamed to size. Guides may also be pressed out or drilled out, depending on type, and new ones pressed in and
reamed to size. The reaming is critical as quite often the guide is made out of round by the press. Several materials are available for the new guides; however
bronze is far and away the favorite. If you have decided to use smaller stemmed racing valves, the machinist needs to know as the guides he puts in must have
the smaller diameter. These valves weigh less and are under-cut and swirl polished allowing better breathing through the port. Less weight here means valve
springs will not be stressed as much and can contribute to higher RPM's as well. Very well indeed, but be prepared to foot a higher bill for the parts.
The reason the guides are established before other machine work is done is because most valve seat work is centered on the guides. If they're not right the
seats may be off center or otherwise inaccurate.
Cutting the seats is critical to the whole job! There are various types of cutters and valve grinders. The key is the man who does the job. He must make sure
of each step and check that everything fits and matches.
I have an older Black & Decker unit that uses cutting stones. I need a number of stones to cover all the diameters of valves as larger stones won't fit in the
combustion chamber of a smaller head. Also, there are several types of stones manufactured to cope with the materials that need to be ground. Cast iron
use the standard, relatively less expensive stones whereas the stones to cut stellite seat inserts require a tougher composition and are therefore more
expensive. I also need one each of three cutting angles for all diameters of valves. OK, I need a bunch of stones!
Newer head machines can do a multitude of tasks within a short period of time, so turn around on jobs is quicker. These machines vary in design, some
even being controlled by computers, making repeatable results easy to obtain. How fast are they?
This Rottler machine (above), as demonstrated by Harry Clark at the Salisbury, Maryland NAPA machine shop, can grind 3 angles on all the seats in a set of
V8 heads and pressure test them in 10 minutes! Why isn't it finishing these Cleveland heads right now? They are waiting on a few guides to be delivered.
Even great machines depend on many other factors. This machine can also drill the guides so new ones can be pressed in and then cut the tops of the
guides for whatever type of seal you prefer. It can tap the rocker stud bore for screw-in studs as well as cut it shorter. To do this requires speed control of
the drill head. This can be lowered to 40 RPM for tapping. It cuts seats for standard inserts and then cuts the angles. All of this is controlled by the operator
after the machine's electronic leveler establishes positioning. This particular machine has a "Bowl Hog" attachment for opening up the throat of the port when
larger valves are being installed.
Want one for your garage? I sure do, but at about $ 30,000, depending on attachments, it's going to have to wait.
When you take your heads in for work, if you bought special parts, take them along as well as any printed instructions that came with them. The machinist
needs to know any special requirements to make these pieces fit and function properly. This example (at right) sitting on the bench at NAPA is from Ford
Racing. It provides specs for cutting and tapping the rocker stud bores on a Cleveland style head.
This head (at left) on Bill Cannon's head table shows Dykem Blue dye used to keep close track of the various machining operations. Dye is available in
various colors and in spray or brush on depending on what is being done and which material is being machined. Note also the gasket surface. These may
corrode or gall. A cleanup pass on the surfacer is called for. To raise compression, at times, more material is removed the decrease the size of the
combustion chamber. This is an effective way of gaining compression if your engine doesn't have a wide selection of pistons available or you are a half
point lower then your targeted ratio. If the heads are surfaced more than a small amount the intake manifold gasket surfaces will need to be surfaced as
well because the you have lowered the overall height and the manifold won't match up. Quite possibly there will be a serious vacuum leak. The amount
will not be the same as taken off the deck. It can be determined by a graph that the machine shop has. When assembling your engine it's always good to
check the manifold to head match.
At this time the tops of the valve guides may be machined for Teflon seals if they are to be used. The rocker arm stud boss may also be machined and
tapped for screw-in studs, if applicable. In the picture, in the rear, there is a guide cutting tool. It has the diameter and depth established so the machinist
can't mess this up. The tool is on the right, a freshly machined guide top is to its left and a Teflon seal is sitting between them.
Closer to us is the rocker stud cutting tool. Again, the depth is set. The studs need to be pulled first, as the stock one laying there has been. After
machining the boss down, the hole must be tapped and then the new heavy duty stud screwed in. If the hole goes into the water jacket a sealant MUST
be used. The pushrod slot may need to be lengthened if a high lift cam and/or rocker arms of great than stock ratio are part of your game plan. In fact, it's
wise to spend the time and a few extra dollars now so it's easy to upgrade later. Playing with various ratio rockers can be eye-opening, both for power
and mileage, although not at the same time.
Next are the valves themselves. The diameter of the stem must be within specs as well as the length. Some valves will wear on top due the lack of oil
between them and the rocker arm. This affects the geometry of the valve train. Some valves use lash caps which can be easily replaced if worn. Once
these dimensions are established the surface that mates to the seats needs to be ground smooth at exactly the right angle. This usually is the same as
the seat. Most are 45°; however some manufacturers specify a one degree interference cut. Others indicate different angles depending on their
research with flow benches or for longevity concerns. For example, for years Pontiac specified a 45° face on their exhaust valves but a 30° on all
intakes. Starting in 1964, that changed to 44° and 29° respectively. Don't ask me why; just be sure to check the book. Aluminum Buicks all called for
45° on both intakes and exhausts.
Used valves that are "burned" are not usable. This can show up to the naked eye as pie-slice splits in the valve. If you have any like this, toss them.
Some burned valves can be more difficult to detect. The face area may be badly burned and it will take turning it in the valve face machine before it
shows up. The valve will cut on part of the face, but not all. The machinist may try to continue cutting, but that will reduce the margin too much. The
margin is a major concern. This is the area on the outside circumference of the valve head, parallel to the stem. Cutting the face will reduce this
measurement. If the margin is too small, the valve will burn in short order. If your machinist is concerned with this area you would be well advised to
replace the valve or valves in question.
The 45° cut on the valve face affects the overall installed height of the valve too. This is usually minor, and with hydraulic lifters and / or adjustable
rocker arms you need not be concerned. When everything is machined, and the valves assembled in the head a straight edge can be laid across the
tops of the valves to check that they are level. As mentioned, slight differences are common and easily tolerated. If your engine has solid lifters and
shaft mounted rockers the valve height needs to be right. Even then an adjustable valve train will be to your advantage.
With the valve seat in the head machined and the valve face done, the two can be mated. I like to use lapping compound for this. Years ago it was
used to match the surfaces, much like the lid on a glass apothecary jar. It worked very well too. Today's equipment however leaves the two surfaces in
such a nice condition that it's no longer needed. I use it to identify the contact area between the two. For street motors that will see 100,000 miles
before the next rebuild, a wide seat is the ticket. Race motors however like narrow seats as this facilitates more flow at all lift heights.
With the face cut made and measured, the valve can be back cut. Perhaps a 30° cut just above the 45° cut. This narrows the face to the needed
width and helps flow on both intake and exhaust valves. The illustrations above show a warped, burned valve that would not cut and one with a 45°
face, a red dyed 30° back cut and a 15° back cut above that for comparison. Notice how this cut removes the inner lip on the back of the valve.
That lip has been shown to cause turbulence, disturbing the air flow both into and out of the chamber.
Another machine operation to consider is a front cut. This process cuts a slight angle on the chamber side of the valve and also reduces the
margin. Again it's been demonstrated to help flow on both intake and exhaust valves. I took an old valve and put red dye on it, cut the face 45° and
put a 15° front cut on it to demonstrate. The margin is still clearly visible, but you can see how it is reduced.
The installed spring height needs to be checked next. This can be measured
with a special tool designed for the task. If there are differences shims can be
use to even out the gaps. Note: aluminum heads have spring cups. Never
install springs directly on the aluminum as the soft aluminum will take a
beating and you can even destroy the head.
The spring pressure at the installed height can be measured too.
Seals are next. There are a wide variety of seals available. The O-ring type
was the Chevy standard for decades. High performance engine builders like
Teflon seals. These require cutting the top of the valve guide to press the
seals onto. These are the standard of performance engines today. Use them
on both the intake and exhaust. It's a good idea to use new keepers and
retainers too.
This assembled BB Chevy aluminum head at Bill Cannon's Awesome Engines shows how it all comes together.
When the engine is assembled proper rocker arm geometry should be verified. If things are not where they are designed to work, the life
expectancy of your motor will be greatly reduced.
Please keep in mind that these are basic operations and we have not touched on port matching, porting, and matching head cavity volumes
("CC-ing"), or other high performance and racing modifications. We'll save that for another time.
At least with this information you will know what the machinist is talking about, and you should be able to answer his questions. You'll know what
you need to speed your heads on their way.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Greg Myer. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided
without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
Photographs by Brandon Myer at Brightside Photography and Greg Myer for BritishV8. All rights reserved.
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Positive-Crankcase-Ventilation-PCV.htm
Positive Crankcase Ventilation
by: Jim Blackwood
The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system, and older "road tube" systems that preceded PCV, are for venting combustion products from the crankcase in the most unobtrusive
manner consistent with the times. To understand these systems, it's necessary to realize that "blowby" inevitably exists in any internal combustion engine. For example, whenever a piston
engine runs, there will be some passage of gasses and vapors past the piston rings, and into the crankcase. This will occur despite the finest components, the most precise machining and
the most careful assembly. Blowby includes volatile and potentially explosive fuel fumes, as well as contaminants that degrade oil. (Solids, such as ash, are carried with the gasses.)
Modern sealing methods are simply incapable of preventing blowby. It may not be much, but blowby is inevitable and it has to be dealt with.
Originally engines were built with an open crankcase and no special provision was needed. The closed crankcase came about because of a desire to re-use the lubricating oil which had
previously been allowed to simply fall to the ground. As this evolved, manufacturers began sealing the crankshaft from the outside environment to both contain the oil and exclude
contaminants. Engine speeds were increasing as well and pressurized lubricating systems were needed to deal with the increased bearing loads, meaning there was a great deal more oil
being flung about. At this point it became clear that venting of some sort was required to avoid pressurizing the crankcase to a level which seals and gaskets weren't capable of
withstanding, and various types of vents were developed. Due to the possibility of crankcase explosions almost all of these venting methods also included a flame arrestor of some type,
but they were in general as simple and direct as engine manufacturers could make them.
The problem with this type of vent of course is that it was nearly impossible to remove all of the oil from the vapors that exited the vent, and as a result an oily residue was deposited
nearby. Also under heavy acceleration when cylinder pressures are highest and the most blowby is produced, enough fumes exited the vents to create objectionable fumes in the
passenger compartment of the vehicle. These problems led to development of the road tube which was very effective, resulted in much cleaner engine compartments and cleaner air for
the driver and passengers. It diverted the objectionable fumes and oil spray down under the car and was a significant advance. The downside was that the oil vapors were now deposited
on the road surface, leaving a wide, dark oily swath between the two tire tracks of public roads.
It was soon discovered that by cutting the end of the road draft tube at an angle and extending it into the airstream below the car an actual flow of fresh air could be created through the
engine by providing an inlet breather, often in the form of an oil filler cap with a coarse mesh filter material, which acted as a flame arrestor and kept bugs out of the crankcase. A similar
mesh in the road tube (sometimes placed inside the engine) served the same purpose on the other end. This new development was highly touted as an advancement which increased
both engine life and oil change intervals by removing combustion byproducts quickly before they could combine with the crankcase oil and form acids, sludge, and other harmful and
non-lubricating contaminants.
This insight ultimately led to the development of the modern PCV system as we know it today. Various schemes were tried in order to find new ways of evacuating gasses from the
crankcase, but what most had in common was that they relied on some means of suction to do the job. This generally meant the use of manifold vacuum as the most practical method.
For us this means two things: firstly that most PCV systems are pretty consistent, and secondly that other alternative methods are possible.
The usual PCV systems come in two basic flavors, and I'll distinguish them here by referring to them as American and British respectively, due to the prevalence of their use by
manufacturers in each country, and in particular in distinguishing LBC's from Detroit iron.
In the British system, which is the more straightforward of the two, manifold vacuum is plumbed directly to the crankcase using a 0.5" or 0.75" diameter line. An orifice of typically 0.030"
or less is provided on a line feeding fresh air into the crankcase. Sometimes this line draws vapors from a vapor recovery canister as well, thereby purging the canister and feeding
those vapors indirectly into the engine intake, and sometimes this orifice is contained in an oil filler cap, but for the purposes of PCV it functions the same either way. It does however
have the potential to either enrich or lean the idle mixture to a limited degree. The manifold vacuum purges the crankcase of blowby fumes. By placing the crankcase under vacuum, a
metered quantity of fresh air is drawn into the crankcase through the orifice... at least at idle and part throttle. As the throttle opens and engine load increase, blowby also increases
proportionally until at some point the crankcase transitions from vacuum to positive pressure. This may not occur with a new engine in good condition using a larger vacuum line, but it
certainly will with an engine having significant mileage. When the crankcase is at positive pressure, nothing changes on the vacuum side other than the volume of gasses going into the
intake, but on the orifice side the flow reverses. This is usually not particularly significant due to the small size, but can contaminate the carbon in the vacuum canister over the course of
time.
American systems use a large diameter vent line to the atmosphere, usually running from a valve cover to a location in the air filter housing, and a smaller diameter line to the intake
manifold, usually 0.3125" to 0.375" in diameter. This system restricts the amount of combustible air which enters the engine with a PCV valve rather than an orifice, and it is placed in
this intake line. The PCV valve is pretty unique in that it allows full flow at low pressure differentials across the valve and a metered restriction above that level. It also shuts off flow in
the reverse direction, thereby eliminating the need for a flame trap. This is done by using a shuttle inside the valve which I'll return to shortly, as this is the most misunderstood part of
the system.
The crankcase is never under vacuum but can become slightly pressurized. The large diameter vent line allows fresh air into the crankcase and also allows excess blowby to vent into
the air cleaner housing through a flame arrestor where they are ingested by the engine, whenever engine loads and throttle openings are great. Under part throttle the PCV valve is
open due to the lower vacuum applied across it and the lower level of blowby so most if not all of the blowby is sucked into the intake, drawing fresh air into the engine in the process
and also tending to lean out the intake mixture during cruise. During idle there is enough vacuum to shuttle the PCV valve to the metered position and there is usually very little blowby
so most of that is ingested along with a small amount of fresh air which is accounted for by adjustment of the idle mixture screws. This is one reason the idle mixture has to be adjusted
as the rings wear. Under heavy throttle, although the level of vacuum drops to near zero, should the level of blowby become great enough the shuttle will shut down the flow to the
metered level, diverting most of the blowby to the air cleaner and ingesting only a metered amount of blowby through the PCV valve.
The effect of routing these gasses through the air cleaner is to enrich the intake mixture proportionally because the carb doesn't know the difference between fresh air and recycled
combustion by-products. So it is interesting that the PCV system helps to give us a lean cruise and a rich WOT, but there is little or no correlation between PCV, carburetor, and volume
of blowby other than the initial calibrations of the carb and PCV valve and no mechanism to account for engine wear other than the shuttle valve and idle mixture screws. The interesting
thing about this is that the same PCV system is still in use with very little modification on our newer fuel injected engines, although they do have a feedback mechanism in the form of an
oxygen sensor.
These systems work quite well normally, but things tend to get interesting once performance modifications are made. Often the PCV systems are unintentionally modified to the point
that they can no longer function properly, and this is particularly common with aftermarket intakes, air filters, valve covers, forced induction and the like. It is still possible on almost any
performance engine to design and tune for a PCV system that works properly and this is especially important in a street driven car. For all out performance it is less of a consideration
and in fact the blowby fumes do dilute the intake charge somewhat, so in these cases a simple crankcase vent is often used, harking back to the early days, with all their attendant
inconveniences. Often modifications are made to the system unintentionally, in the quest for more performance and a better appearance, and this can result in problems. One of the
most bothersome is pressurization of the crankcase, with symptoms of excess oil sprayed about the engine compartment in various places as it is forced past gaskets and seals.
Another is the chance of a crankcase explosion should the need for a flame trap be overlooked. Then of course, any improperly functioning system will have a need for more frequent oil
changes, as the combustion byproducts contaminate the oil more rapidly.
For your street driven car there are answers. Sometimes the British system is more appropriate, and sometimes American, but it's best to keep in mind how each one operates and not
try to mix the two. When fitting an open element air cleaner onto a typical American 4-barrel carbureted V8, for instance, it's quite easy to install the vent line to the base of the air
cleaner inside the element, thereby keeping the system intact. Things aren't quite so neat and clean when fitting a similar air cleaner on a Rover V8, because Rover engines were
originally set up with an orifice-type system. Some of these are easily changed over and some are not, depending on the fittings on the rocker covers. Bear in mind that the large
vent line of 0.625" or possibly 0.75" in some cases cannot be replaced with a 0.375" hose, or even two of them. Flow increases by the square of the diameter, meaning that a 2" pipe
flows four times as much as a 1" pipe. So you would need four 0.375" lines to match one 0.75" line. If your valvecovers do not have the proper fittings and you are not willing to add
larger ones to them then you may need a larger line to the crankcase in an alternate location. Early SBC's had a vent line that went through the block web behind the intake manifold.
A large diameter tube rising from the pan may be another option. You might use the mechanical fuel pump mounting boss. Or you may be able to use the orifice system, bearing in
mind that using smaller lines will cause it to operate under pressure more than it might otherwise. This may require recalibration of your carburetor due to the differences mentioned
above, or it may be possible to find a suitable carburetor calibrated for the orifice system, since some British cars were available with a four barrel carburetor. There are other cases
where an orifice system is a good choice, such as any induction system where the throttle body is at the inlet of the system. This might be the case with an IR setup or where an
engine is supercharged. In these situations there is no practical way to locate the vent tube, and therefore no way to ingest the excess blowby fumes. The solution is to port the
crankcase to manifold vacuum (or inlet vacuum in the case of a blower) and use the orifice to restrict flow into the crankcase and subsequent leaning of the intake mixture. It is worth
noting here that often EFI systems take control of the PCV system, such as by including a purge valve for the emissions canister, allowing options such as pulling fresh air in at idle
to give more precise control of the mixture. Some of these systems may be able to divert PCV intake on WOT for maximum power output. WARNING: All lines from crankcase to
intake system must have some form of flame arrester! To overlook this is to invite a crankcase explosion, which in the best possible scenario will have you replacing your lifter valley
pan.
Finally, we have the alternative systems, the most familiar being the collector scavenger tube. These are really not suitable for a street driven application because of two things:
mufflers, and the fact that they do not work well at idle. For racing it's a good idea, but once you add the restriction of a muffler you have created backpressure which will reverse the
flow in the scavenger tube and make the system ineffective. Another option is an external scavenger pump. These tend to be a more complicated solution, but are another possibility
that may have merit in special situations. Theoretically it would be possible to evacuate the crankcase using positive pressure and this would tend to lead to seal problems, but if
those woes were overcome one might even find a way to route forced induction through the crankcase on its way to the cylinder, provided an adequate air/oil separator were
designed. Two stroke engines inherently use this principle, simply burning the oil as they go.
So that's the basic lowdown. No doubt there are details that I've left out but it's enough to give the average person the picture. Hopefully it's enough to help sort through the tangled
mess and maze of confusion that typically surrounds these systems.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Jim Blackwood. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee.
Apply at your own risk.
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/TR6-Rear-Disc-Brakes.htm
How To: Upgrade your Triumph TR6 with Rear Disc Brakes
by: Don Watson, with Calvin Grannis
Is the search for rear disc brakes the Holy Grail of Triumph TR6 modifications? It may not be a discovery that Indiana Jones would be willing to die for,
but it's definitely a challenging quest. This article is about my personal quest, and especially about my solution to the vexing challenge. But before we
leave the subject of dying, please note that this is not a conversion to do on the cheap or to take lightly. Read and heed the strongly worded disclaimer at
the end of all BritishV8 brake modification articles.
My quest for the TR6 Holy Grail started with the simple event of doing a rear brake job. You know: simply pull the drum, clean the dust out, replace the
shoes, turn the drum, check and if necessary rebuild/replace the wheel cylinders, then reassemble. Well, I don't know about you, but after 30 years of
playing with cars I have a lot of scars on my hands. Sometimes I think that most of these have been from brake jobs. Drum brakes tend to be a
maintenance pain in both a figurative and literal sense. A routine brake job on my 1974 TR6 initiated my world wide quest for a rear disc brake
conversion.
Datsun 240z rear disc brake conversion kit, as purchased from Modern Motorsports.
The Datsun Z family of cars did have a similar style system, but like Indy's hat, it will not fit me or my purpose. Looking at web pictures, reading forums,
finally got the best of me. I prefer to learn by doing. I need to experience with hands on, so I purchased a 240Z rear brake conversion kit from Modern
Motorsports, with the hope of making some modifications to their brackets. From this, I hoped to develop my own version of rear disc brakes for the
TR6.
Like the sting of Indy's whip, I learned that the Z's used a different hub mounting and hub diameter. The brackets were of a 3 bolt semi-arch design to
fit on the outside of the Z hub housing. This will not work on the TR6 unless you are going to design a very large offset to the bracket, which would
weaken the bracket. Still, the calipers would work and the hands on experience got me motivated.
So here is what I did. My first move was to locate and purchased a used TR4A or TR6 swing arm so that I could mock up the disc brake system
without taking my baby off the road for an extended amount of time. I found them dirt cheap on eBay as no one in my local club had a spare one.
Keep in mind that this is just for mock up so the condition does not need to be great. Only the hub face and housing need to be good. This allowed
me to mock up everything, measure and have prototype brackets made from CAD files by The Columbus Machine Works, Inc. in Columbus, Ohio.
Prototype TR6 rear brake caliper brackets were made for me by The Columbus Machine Works, Inc.
I removed the rear wheel, drum and disconnected the emergency brake cable followed by removing the brake shoe springs, clips, and rotating the
wheel facing to get access to the hub nuts.
Once the brake shoes, springs, clips, etc., are removed the hub, the half shaft pull right out. Pay close attention to any play or slop in the hub
then replace or rebuild if necessary, A note of caution on this as it should be done by a qualified shop with the proper tools. I replaced the u-joint
now, while you have real easy access.
Next the dust plate can be removed as well as the stock studs. You will notice that the stock TR6 studs are two different threads, fine and
coarse, and about 1.5" in length. The brackets are a half inch thick, so new 2" studs are needed. The swing arms are aluminum, so to prevent
galvanic corrosion I used three-eighths inch stainless steel studs. Some conversions suggest heli-coils for strength. Make sure that when you
install the studs that they are perfectly square and centered.
The brackets were made to fit 1981-84 Nissan Maxima calipers with hardware. If you buy similar calipers, make sure to note whether
mounting hardware is included. Apparently some sources include them and some don't. In the righthand picture below, you can see the
additional plate that the calipers float on.
These calipers have an integral, cable operated emergency brake, and specicifically it's a "short pull" brake. Other models have an "extended
pull" e-brake. Also note that Nissan apparently used several different makes and models of calipers. I understand that some 1981-1983
200sx/240sx calipers may suit our use.
Brakes are a system, so I don't recommend mixing new and old components. I replaced all the brake lines, T-fittings, etc., and I used new
braided stainless steel hoses to the calipers.
I chose not to modify or fabricate for coil-over shock absorbers, and instead kept my front positioned springs with converted gas shocks
mounted on the rear of the swing arm. There are some really nice works out there by others as referenced before. But I have a two car
garage, limited shop tools, limited work space, and limited funds. To avoid conflicts with the shock, spring, and bump stops on the swing arm,
I chose to mount the calipers under the swing arm (i.e. at "six o'clock"). If you mount yours similarly, keep in mind that you'll need to bleed the
caliper in an upright position because air bubbles don't like to flow downhill.
Now, with studs in place, the nest step is to install the brake brackets onto the swing arms. Please note that a little modification may be
needed to improve serviceability. See the bracket's front mounting ear and the swing arm position is very close and will prevent access to
the mounting bolt head with a socket. I used a grinder to remove just enough material from the swing arm to allow access with a socket.
Don't cut into the hub housing! Next, I installed the hub, new u-joint, and half shaft. I tightened the stud nuts to Triumph torque
specifications.
I next sourced a set of 1992 Nissan 240sx rotors (4x100mm lug pattern). Their outside diameter is 258mm, and their hat height is 47mm. I
had to have the central hole enlarged 0.40" to fit the TR6 hub. I also had to re-drill and recess the rotor retaining holes for the 2 screws
that keep the rotor attached when removing lug nuts and wheel for servicing. (Ultimately, after going through the whole process with
regular rotors, I decided to upgrade to drilled and slotted rotors for looks. Now I have to buy something else: new drilled and slotted rotors
for the front!)
I installed the calipers, remembering to first bleed the system with the calipers upright. (This can alternatively be done by either rotating
the caliper around to the top of the rotor or by temporarily putting a half inch thick metal spacer between the brake pads. Without some
sort of spacer, the pistons would hyperextend from their cylinders.)
The next step was to connect the emergency brakes. I used a Lokar emergency brake cable assembly. They're made to be cut to
length, and they come with simple instructions.
I run 15"x7" Panasport wheels, with 3.9" backspacing (i.e. zero offset, nominally. Stock TR6 steel wheels are 3.5" backspace / +12mm
offset.) Since I don't have a fifth Panasport wheel, I use a steel wheel for my spare tire, so I made sure to check for clearance with both
wheels.
I've received several e-mails about using this type of bracket on the top side of the swing arm. If you don't want the emergency brake
function, you might be able to rotate and flip the bracket to face the rear of the swing arm, and then use a caliper that doesn't have the
bulky emergency brake mechanism. However, you might still run into conflicts with the rear shock absorber mounting, if you run gas
shocks. You might also run into conflicts with a rear sway bar system.
Note: when I mocked up the brackets, the first CNC pass was with aluminum. The black bracket, shown at left below, is the final
version in half inch steel for additional strength.
The motivation for this article is for us, collectively, to give something back to the BritishV8 and Triumph community that has given so
much to us. Through How-to's, "been there done that" emails, technical forums, and lessons learned, we have all benefited from the
collective knowledge of our fellow enthusiasts.
Calvin Grannis Continues the Story...
I purchased a set of caliper mounting brackets from Don, and needed to source brake calipers locally. As he explained above, Don
had bought an aftermarket kit from Modern Motorsports that's marketed for converting an old Datsun 240Z to disc brakes. Don
assumed that the calipers included in the kit were from a Nissan 240SX, so I went to a local recycling yard and picked up a set of
240SX calipers and brackets, complete with the emergency brake cable. When I got home it didn't look right to me and the calipers
wouldn't bolt-up to the brake brackets. I went back the recycling yard to hunt for the right brake calipers and brackets.
I found a 1987 Nissan Maxima had calipers which would work for me, and with a little additional research I can add an additional
caveat: apparently there is an "earlier" and a "later" style of caliper for a 1987 Maxima! The change occured in March of that year. I
don't know the full extent of the change, but the earlier design has fewer internal parts.
I used 1992 Nissan 240sx rotors. On the inner hole that goes over the hub, I had to take off about 68 thousandths of an inch. I
just took the old Triumph drums and the new Nissan rotors to someone with a lathe, and had them match the rotor diameter to the
drum diameter.
Another small difficulty had to be overcome. The emergency cable brackets on the Nissan Maxima calipers was pointing upward
towards the body. I found that the cable brackets on the old 240SX calipers would install on the Maxima calipers and this fixed the
problem in short order. The 240SX brackets redirected the emergency brake cables so that they pointed toward the differential.
I ended up using the used Nissan 240SX emergency brake cable.
Since they were used and of unknown history, I rebuilt both Maxima calipers. Upon close inspection, I noted at this time that the
Maxima calipers have a bigger piston than the 240SX calipers.
CAD files for making your own brackets are available free for the asking! Just use the BritishV8 message
board's private message system to contact Don Watson ("dwtr6v8") or Calvin Grannis ("74ls1tr6").
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Don Watson and Calvin Grannis. Views expressed are those
of the authors, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk. Neither the author nor
BritishV8 make any warrantees or representations regarding the use of the materials in this website in terms of
their correctness, accuracy, adequacy, usefulness, timeliness, reliability or otherwise. BritishV8 shall not be liable
for any special or consequential damages that result from use or inability to use, the materials on this website or
the performance of the products. Brakes are critically important safety equipment. If you're uncomfortable working
on brake components, take the work to a qualified professional.
Photos by Don Watson and Calvin Grannis for BritishV8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/FastCars-TR6-Frame.htm
Fast Cars Offers New and Improved Chassis for Triumph TR6
by: Curtis Jacobson
Fast Cars' latest offering will excite Triumph TR6 enthusiasts and probably kit car builders too!
Fast Cars has begun selling replacement TR6 chassis that include entirely redesigned suspensions with coil-over shock absorbers and Wilwood disc brakes, front and rear.
The core of the chassis design is a tubular frame that easily surpasses the original TR6 frame in both strength and rigidity.
Original TR6 bodies will bolt right on, using existing body mounting points. (With some modifications, this chassis can be used under other bodies as well.)
In standard configuration, the chassis is designed to accept a Ford 302 V8 with a T5 5-speed transmission, but other options will be available on a made-to-order basis. A
lightweight but tough Ford 8" rear axle is standard equipment.
The Frame
Fast Cars' new TR6 frame is primarily constructed of mild steel "box" tubing. A handful of crossmembers and braces have round cross-sections, but they're the exceptions
that prove the rule. The practical advantage of this is that it will always be easy to modify or repair the frame, and specifically it will be easy to install various brackets and
accessories.
The frame comes standard with motor mounts suitable for a Ford 302 V8 engine and with transmission mounts for a Borg Warner (or Tremec) T5 5-speed transmission.
However, if you prefer a different engine or transmission, Fast Cars will be happy to assist you. If you'd like to supply your engine, they'll even be happy to engineer mounts
for it and install them in their shop. Don't hesitate to call for an estimate, and to discuss your specific application.
Installing a body can be tricky. Fast Cars will also be happy to provide assistance at this stage of your project. Contact them to discuss your specific needs, whether you're
working with a pristine, Heritage TR6 bodyshell or considering building a one-of-a-kind body. Since Fast Cars TR6 frames are made to order, they can easily alter where
body brackets are installed along the frame.
Want a roll hoop or a full rollcage? Fast Cars can help you with that too.
Various paint finishes are available, including custom colors.
The Front Suspension
The first priority of the front suspension design was to minimize un-sprung weight. Whereas any weight reduction will make a car quicker, reduction of un-sprung weight
particularly improves ride quality. To this end, the front suspensionf features fabricated 4130N spindles, aluminum alloy (6061) hubs, and Timken tapered roller bearings.
The spindle assemblies weigh just 5 pounds 2 ounces each (without brakes). The brakes are 11.75" Wilwood vented rotors with robust four-pot Wilwood "Dynalite"
aluminum brake calipers. Nylatron GS bushes are used at the suspension pivots.
Another design priority was to further improve ride quality and handling thru better placement of the lower spring mounting point. The lightweight QA1 aluminum-bodied
coil-over shocks are mounted quite far out at the lower end, so the springs compress relatively far for any given wheel displacement. This increases piston travel for any
given bump, which is advanteous. The coil-over shock absorbers also facilitate very simple ride height and corner weight adjustment.
The Fast Cars IFS has a nominal caster angle of three degrees, and like modern cars caster can be easily fine-tuned during alignment. The adjustment range is 2.5 to 5.0
degrees. The Fast Cars IFS is also designed to have very little static camber. (Camber is the relative angle of the steering pivot axis to a vertical line as viewed from the
front or rear of the car. It changes with body roll as a function of suspension geometry. Better tire life and straight-line braking are also benefits of utilizing less static
camber.) Ted recommends very little toe-in: just one thirty-secondth to one sixteenth of an inch.
By virtue of the relative placement of A-arm attachment points, the Fast Cars front suspension has some "anti-dive" built in. The suspension geometry has been
engineered so that the upward force of brake torque reaction partially counteracts the downward force of load transfer.
One of the distinctive characteristic of Fast Cars front suspensions is light, precise steering. This is partly attributable to suspension geometry. It's also partly because of
the steering rack that Fast Cars uses, which is custom made to their specifications. Of course, the steering requires an intermediate shaft and u-joints to connect to the
TR6 steering column. Customers can fabricate their own, or they can buy a custom-made intermediate shaft from Fast Cars.
Wider track width versions of the suspension are available for customers who are fitting fender flares.
Since hubs are made to order, they're available with whatever popular four or five hole lug spacing you prefer. Of course, your preference may depend on what wheels
you plan to use.
Fast Cars' proprietor, Ted Lathrop, has earned quite a reputation for inventing trick construction details. One of our favorite details of the new chassis is the way the front
anti-sway bar is housed within a tubular crossmember. Its lightweight aluminum arms are splined to match the steel bar, and they can easily be removed if a stiffer or
softer bar is desired.
The Rear Suspension
The Fast Cars TR6 chassis comes with a Ford 8" live axle, Wilwood disc brakes, and a custom "three-link" coil-over rear suspension. The nomenclature here can be a
little confusing, so to be clear: a three-link rear suspension is actually composed of four links, plus two coilover shock absorbers. The three links that extend forward
locate the axle forward-to-back and restrict its rotation (e.g. pinion angle). The two bottom links run forward from brackets underneath the axle, parallel with each
other. This is a nice feature because it simplifies suspension alignment. The third link runs forward from the top of the differential housing. The fourth link is a Panhard
rod; it locates the axle side-to-side.
The coil-over shocks are located behind the axle, mounted straight up and down, and the Panhard rod is located in front of the axle. Therefore, to clear the axle
pinion, the Panhard rod has a bend in it. The rear suspension geometry features "anti-squat". In other words, rearward weight transfer under acceleration is turned
more efficiently into increased traction.
Nylatron "GS" bushings are used at the ends of the radius rods in lieu of Heim joints (which would transmit more road noise and would probably wear out quicker) or
rubber bushings.
The axle itself is brand new, not just an old axle that has been "narrowed". The axle features an aluminum gear carrier ("pumpkin"), which is both lighter and cooler
running than the iron alternative. The axle also comes with an Auburn limited slip differential.
Additional Photos
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Curtis Jacobson. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without
warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
Photographs by Wayne Edwards for BritishV8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
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http://www.britishv8.org/MG/CliveWagerfield.htm
Clive Wagerfield's Original MGB GT V8 Prototype (Number "096")
Owner: Clive Wagerfield
City: Buckinghamshire, UK
Model: MGB GT V8
Engine: Rover 3.5L V8
The first five MGB GT V8 prototypes were built late in 1972 and started life as standard 1800 GT's. They were removed from the assembly line prior to
their four cylinder engines being fitted, and they went to the Development Department shop where they were completed to V8 specification. This
included significant modifications to the engine bay including: relocating the radiator forward, recontouring the inner fenders, and modifying the firewall
at the front corners of the transmission opening.
My car, number "GD2D1 96 G", was one of these five prototypes. I purchased the car from Norman Ward, who bought the car directly from MG Cars at
Abingdon on April 28, 1976. Norman Ward's father, Robert Ward, was Plant Director at the MG assembly plant and he recommended the car to his
son when it came up for release. When I purchased the car, I also got the original receipt which reveals that Norman paid the princely sum of £875.
This original MGB GT V8 prototype is registered "MMO 229L" - just as it was when Norman purchased it!
"The Car Number is stamped on a plate secured to the RH wing valance adjacent to the filter."
The fiberglass air dam and rally lights were installed by previous owner Norman Ward, although when
Norman picked the car up from the factory, it had extra headlights fitted where the spotlights are now.
Curiously, the switch selected either left or right but not together! The car came with the same
Dunlop composite (aluminum hub / steel rim) wheels that were used on production MGB GT V8's.
Although standard on production MGB GT V8's, this prototype never had SundymTM tinted windows.
Traveling incognito: MGB GT V8 prototype, viewed from the rear.
Although Norman didn't research or document the car's unique history, I've been able to verify some things about the car and its use by the MG
development team. One important fact is that "number 96" was never fitted with V8 badges! Without those badges, of course, it could travel a
little more inconspicuously on public roads.
And travel it did! Prototype "096" was used for engine evaluation and speed trials. The first reference I found for this appears in the book "MG"
by McComb. Norman Ward tells me the following excerpt was verified by both his father and the late MGOC V8 Registrar's Historian, Geoff
Allen:
"Although no figure for maximum speed in overdrive was quoted, a perfectly standard car had been taken to France for tests by Alec Hounslow,
foreman of the development department workshop and one-time riding mechanic to Nuvolari. He got a genuine 222 kph maximum, converted
from kilometers to miles, and realized with some astonishment that he was traveling at 138 mph. In the words of MG's former chief, John
Thornley, 'The V8 was a quite stupendous motor-car. From my own experience, when you were doing 100 mph in overdrive top and put your
foot down on the accelerator, you got a push in the back. Now, that is motoring!'"
Subsequently, I've been very fortunate to make personal contact with MGB legend Don Hayter who seems pleased to help fill in more details.
Don recalls that due to a lack of suitable roads in England, Alec Hounslow and Mike Hearn took prototype "096" to France for high speed
assessment using the then-new "A1" autoroute (a.k.a. "l'autoroute du Nord" or in English "the Northern Motorway"). Don has spoken to Mike and
apparently he remembers much of that event, so we'll update this article as details become available.
Is this a North American specification engine?
The radiator has a fan guard, although the engine-driven fan was apparently removed by
the Development shop. (It was made redundant by the dual electric fans, also shown.)
The stamped engine serial number plate on this car is "49000004", whereas the production V8 engine serial numbers started with "486"
followed by a further five digits. What about the other prototypes? Remember that there were five Development Shop built prototypes,
followed by line-built "Pre-Production" cars (which were also "prototypes"). It's been documented elsewhere that shop built left-hand drive
prototype "97" was fitted with engine number "48600002". The engines in left-hand drive prototypes "98" and "100" had engines with serial
numbers marked "EXP 107" and "EXP 103" respectively. After that, the first four line-built left-hand drive prototypes ("101", "102", "104", and
"105") were fitted with engines prefixed (like mine) by "49".
The engine serial number on prototype number 96 is 49000004.
(Note: this surface is adjacent to the transmission's bellhousing. Notice that no adapter
plate is used for mounting the transmission. The bellhousing is integral to the transmission case,
just as on the production MGB GT V8, but quite different from the production 1800cc MGB.)
According to former British Motor Industry Heritage Trust archivist Anders Clausager, the engines for the left-hand drive cars were built to
North American specifications and were to be fitted with emission controls. Was Clausager referring to just the "EXP" engines or to the
"49" engines as well? This is a particularly intriguing question because a North American spec 1972 Rover 3500S saloon would have
received a 10.5:1 compression ratio engine (rated 184hp at 5200 rpm and 226ft.lb. of torque at 3000rpm.) In other words, it seems that
MG's original plan may have been to produce a more potent MGB GT V8 for export.
At any rate, there seems to be circumstantial evidence to indicate that the engines for prototypes 96 and 97 were inadvertantly mixed up.
Car number 96. as far as I can ascertain, is the only right-hand drive car to be fitted with one of these 'North American' engines. I wonder
why?
To provide clearance for the exhaust manifolds, on the prototypes, sheetmetal was literally cut out and replaced with welded-in, formed,
patch panels.
In this photo, you can clearly see some of the weld-line on the inner wing. Interestingly, this prototype
was apparently built with fabricated/tubular headers in lieu of production-style cast iron exhaust manifolds.
A mounting bracket for the remote oil filter was welded-in too. Note: early MGB GT V8's had the
take-off for the oil pressure gauge here. Later, it was relocated to the oil pump body for a
faster reading. On this prototype, the take-off has been crimped shut.
How else was the bodywork modified to accommodate the V8 engine? Firstly, the bonnet was re-tooled to give greater curvature. This
became standard on all MGB's. The mouth of the gearbox tunnel was also enlarged to allow for the new bell-housing arrangement.
Once MG began testing the MGB GT V8 prototypes, it quickly became apparent that significant torque reversals could occur when
switching in and out of 3rd overdrive. It would be easy for these reversals to damage an already fragile gearbox. Both Don Hayter
and separately, the late Geoff Allen recall that my car suffered catastrophic gearbox failure during testing. Over the Easter holiday of
1973, an "inhibitor" was fitted to prevent entering overdrive from third gears. The gearbox was also modified on first gear. There are
many early MGB GT V8's that still have overdrive on both 3rd and 4th. The factory's policy was "if it isn't broke, don't fix it", but
overdrive was blocked from 3rd gear fairly early in production.
On this prototype, MG installed the rare 'tapered slot' steering wheel which was used on all MGB's
from August 1972 through June 1973. When the V8 went into serial production, they instead used a
special wheel with solid spokes that featured "indented slots".
Like all production MGB GT V8s, this car has a collapsible steering column.
(Home market 1800cc MGB's didn't get collapsible columns until September 1974.)
The speedometer and rev counter (aka tachometer) on this prototype are identical to production MGB GT V8's.
Their 80mm diameter is smaller than regular home-market MGB's to accomodates a collapsible steering column.
The speedometer reads to 140mph and the rev counter indicates a "redline" of 5250rpm.
The oil pressure gauge reads to 60psi. Later MGB GT V8 gauges read to 80psi, and then to 100psi.
To its left is the choke control. Later MGB GT V8's had a T-handled knob, labeled "Choke" and "Lock".
The OD switch is on the left-hand stalk that also incorporates the windscreen wipers.
Vintage 8-track "integrated circuit" stereo radio.
The upholstery is standard 1972 (1800cc) GT spec. As the car is Glacier White, the seats
are in Navy. They have a brushed nylon centre panel with vinyl sides. This configuration
was only used in 1972, and its different from production MGB GT V8's.
(Note: This is just an evaporative system canister... it collects gasoline vapor, which is
then routed back to the carbs. An S.U. fuel pump is mounted down by the batteries.)
The disc brake rotors are 10.7" diameter x 1/2" thick, which may indicate that
MG decided to install uprated disc brakes early in the development program.
BritishV8 Magazine has assembled the largest, most authoritative collection of MG "MGB GT V8"
information you'll find anywhere. Check it out! Access our MGB GT V8 article index by clicking here.
British V8 Home:
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http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MGBGTV8-Parts-Catalog.htm
MGB GT V8 - PARTS SUPPLEMENT
Republished by special permission from Moss Motors, Ltd.
INDEX
PAGE
BASIC INFO
LOCATION OF UNIT NUMBERS
SECTION A
POWER UNIT AND ANCILLARIES
1-4
V8 Engine
5-6
Carburetters Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds
7-8
Engine and Gearbox Mountings, Engine Controls
SECTION B
9 - 10
OIL COOLER AND PIPES
SECTION C
9 - 10
CLUTCH COMPONENTS
SECTION D
11 - 14
GEARBOX
SECTION E
15 - 16
COOLING
SECTION F
17 - 18
EXHAUST SYSTEMS AND COMPONENTS
SECTION G
17 - 18
REAR AXLE AND PROPSHAFT ASSEMBLY
19 - 22
Steering and Front Suspension
23 - 24
Rear Suspension
25 - 26
Brake, Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders
27 - 28
Front and Rear Brakes
29 - 30
Ignition Systems, Starter Motors and Alternators
SECTION H
STEERING AND SUSPENSION
SECTION I
HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS
SECTION J
ELECTRICAL
31 - 32
Switches and Wiring Harness
SECTION K
31 - 32
SPEEDOS, REV COUNTERS, & WASHER BOTTLE
SECTION L
33 - 34
GRILLES, BADGES, & DOOR MIRRORS
SECTION M
33 - 34
JACKS, TOOLS, & WHEEL CAPS
Location of Unit Numbers
SECTION A - POWER UNIT AND ANCILLARIES (V8 Engine)
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
REMARKS
1
48G7631 E
Exchange engine
1
9.26-1 C/R
1
48G7632 E
Exchange engine
1
10.25-1 C/R
Exchange engines come without rocker box covers, water pump,
pulleys, oil pump base, dipstick, manifolds and flywheel.
2
625038
Filler cap
3
564258
O-ring
1
4
78862
Retaining screw
3
5
603672
HT lead retainer
2
6
610402
Retainer RH only
1
7
BHH 1208
RH rocker cover
1
7
BHH 1209
LH rocker cover
1
8
GEG 436
Rocker box gasket
2
603127
Rocker box screw long
602530
Rocker box screw short
1
9
532319
Dip stick seal
10
ERC 4558
Dipstick
1
11
602097
Rocker shaft bolt
8
12
606661
Rocker shaft
2
13
602148
Wavey washer
4
14
602186
Flat washer
4
15
603734
Pedestal
8
16
602153
RH angled rocker
8
16
602154
LH angled rocker
8
17
602142
Spacer spring
18
GSP 531
Sparkplug
8
19
614642
Cylinder head
2
20
GEG 340
Cylinder head gasket
2
21
603554
Valve guide
16
22
602166
Inlet valve
8
22
602165
Exhaust valve
8
23
602240
Outer spring
16
24
602241
Inner spring
16
25
602451
Top cap
16
26
602303
Valve cotter
32
27
603378
Push rod
16
28
614529
Cam follower
16
29
602191
Cylinder head bolt
8
29
602192
Cylinder head bolt
14
29
602193
Cylinder head bolt
6
30
602098
Cylinder head washer
28
31
602227
Bolt
1
32
602610
Washer
1
33
602159
Distributor gear
1
34
602149
Spacer
1
35
610289
Cam gear
1
36
ERC 7929
Timing chain
1
37
ERC 2003
Cam shaft
1
38
90602025
Woodruff key
1
39
8G 2707
Piston ring set
1
40
606962
Piston
8
Please state size.
41
8G 2705
Main end set
1
Please state size.
42
8G 2704
Big end set
1
Please state size.
43
612368
Flywheel assembly
1
44
611323
Flywheel ring gear
1
45
SH 607081
Flywheel bolt
6
46
602915
Drain tap LH
1
47
602082
Con rod
8
48
602609
Con rod bolt
16
49
602061
Con rod nut
16
50
602046
Oil thrower
1
51
90602372
Crank gear
1
52
90602025
Woodruff key
1
53
549911
Spigot bearing
1
54
611409
Rear oil seal
1
55
612989
Crankshaft
1
56
SH 610111
Crankshaft bolt
1
57
602411
Washer
1
58
603301
Ring
1
59
612421
Pulley
1
60
611089
Packing piece
2
61
603775
Gasket
1
62
602180
Gasket
1
63
610391
Front cover
1
64
602178
Packing oil seal
1
65
602158
Ring
1
66
602130
Main end bolt
10
67
BHH 998
Oil pump base
1
68
90602072
Gasket
1
69
90602064
Relief valve
1
70
BHH 1348
Relief valvespring
1
1
Please state size.
71
603521
Seal
72
602071
Plug
1
73
602017
Oil pump idler
1
74
602018
Oil pump drive
1
75
90602068
Gasket
1
76
602070
Strainer
1
77
GEG 539
Sump gasket
1
78
603434
Sump
1
79
213961
Drain plug seal
1
80
554164
Drain plug
1
81
SH 505051
Sump bolt
14
GEG 1155
Decoke gasket set
1
GEG 269
Conversion gasket set
1
Use with decoke set.
V 8001
Locktite AVV
1
10cc size
V 8002
Locktite CVX
1
10cc size
V 8003
Wellseal
1
3.75oz size
GGC 102
Hylomar
1
4oz size
V 8004
Special bolt sealant
1
To stop corrosion between
steel/aluminium joints.
V 8005
Plastigauge
1
V 8006
Coolant inhibitor
1
GAT 140
Spark plug spanner
1
1
18oz size
SECTION A - POWER UNIT... (Carburetters, Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds)
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
242318
Carburetter gasket
4
2
610849
Spacer block
2
3
252514
Stud
8
NH 605041
Nut
8
4
BHH 1237
Hose, flame trap/cover
2
5
603330
Flame trap
2
6
BHH 1238
Hose, trap to carburetter
2
7
BHH 1005
Outlet elbow
1
8
GTG 125
Gasket
1
9
GTS 104
Thermostat
1
10
AED 172
Temperature sender unit washer
1
11
11K 2846
Sender unit adaptor
1
12
BHH 1064
Steam pipe
1
13
BHA 5252
Fan otter switch
1
REMARKS
14
257064
Locating screw
15
236022
Gasket
1
16
603441
Adaptor gasket
1
17
GEG 693
Manifold gasket
1
18
GEG 645
End seal
2
19
602076
Seal clamp
2
20
ERC 2278
By pass hose
1
"S" shaped
20
ERC 2279
Heater return hose
1
90 degree shaped
21
90611532
By-pass pipe
1
22
13H 9216
Non return valve
1
23
232043
Washer
1
24
BHH 1001
Exhaust gasket
8
25
BHH 999
RH manifold
1
25
BHH 1000
LH manifold
1
26
CHS 2513
Stud
6
27
GHF 261
Brass nut
6
Alternative.
27
AHH 8382
Helicoil nut
6
Original fitting.
28
GEX 7193
Sealing ring
2
29
SH 506091
Manifold bolt
16
30
612435
Carburettor gasket
2
31
BHH 1162
Sleeve
2
32
BHH 1163
Air temperature control
2
33
GEE 1054
Air filter
2
34
BHH 1255
Air pipe
2
35
BHH 1297
RH top shroud
1
35
BHH 1298
LH top shroud
1
36
BHH 1247
RH lower shroud
1
36
BHH 1248
LH lower shroud
1
37
BHH 1213
U tube breather
1
38
603185
Clip
1
39
603183
Breather filter
1
40
BHH 1172
Pipe crankcase to filter
1
41
CUD 9266E
Exchange carburetters
1 pair
42
CUD 2902
Damper
2
43
AUC 5156
Screw
6
44
CUD 1142
(BBU) Needle
2
45
AUD 4288
Guide
2
46
AUD 4398
Yellow spring
2
47
GSU 101
Needle and seat
2
48
GSU 402
RH Jet
1
48
GSU 403
LH Jet
1
49
GSU 205
Float RH
1
49
GSU 206
Float LH
1
50
GSU 552
Float seal
2
51
AUD 3590
Float chamber screw
8
GSU 500
Carburetter overhaul gasket kit
2
3
SECTION A - POWER UNIT... (Engine and Gearbox Mountings)
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
BHH 991
Engine mounting bracket RH
1
1
BHH 992
Engine mounting bracket LH
1
2
BHH 1318
Engine mounting rubber
2
BHH 1319
Engine mounting packing
A/R
3
AHH 7855
Pin rear gearbox mounting
1
4
AHH 8431
Top gearbox mounting bracket
1
5
AHH 8432
Bottom mounting bracket
1
6
GEX 7453
Gearbox mounting
2
7
AHH 7854
Tie bar bush
2
8
AHH 8430
Gearbox cross member
1
REMARKS
RH side only
SECTION A - POWER UNIT... (Engine Controls)
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
BHH 1120
Accelerator cable
1
2
BHH 1059
Adjuster
1
3
AHC 284
Trunnion
1
4
AHC 135
Accelerator pedal
1
REMARKS
5
AHH 6504
Distance tube
1
6
BHH 1121
Choke cable
1
Round knob
7
BHH 1121A
Choke cable
1
"T" handle
8
BHH 1056
Trunnion block
1
9
BHH 1057
Mounting bracket
1
SECTION B - Oil Cooler and Pipes
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
BHH 1104
Pipe pump to filter
1
2
BHH 1341
Pipe, filter to cooler
1
2
BHH 1612
Pipe, filter to cooler
1
Rubber bumper
3
BHH 1103
Pipe, cooler to pump
1
Chrome bumper
3
BHH 1613
Pipe, cooler to pump
1
Rubber bumper
4
6K 431
Washer sealing
4
5
AHH 6701
Adaptor union
4
6
AHA 8401
Pipe grommet
2
7
ARH 186
Oil cooler
1
Chrome bumper
7
ARH 185
Oil cooler
1
Rubber bumper
8
GFE 114
Filter
1
9
BHA 5286
Remote filter assembly
1
10
BHH 1231
Oil gauge union
1
11
6K 464
Washer
1
REMARKS
Chrome bumper
SECTION C - Clutch Components
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
GCP 208
Clutch plate
1
GCC 180
Clutch cover
1
REMARKS
GRB 224
Release bearing
1
22B 725
Release bearing clip
2
11G 3196
Pivot bolt
1
11G 3195
Pivot bush
1
22B 450
Gaiter
1
12H 2178
Washer
1
SECTION D - Gearbox
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
90514854
Inhibitor / reverse switch
2
2
1B 3664
Spacer washer
A/R
3
21H 6060
Breather
1
4
BHH 2072
Gaiter
1
5
BHH 788
Gear level knob
1
REMARKS
6
54K1723
Locknut
1
7
DAM 3079
Lever
1
8
22B 525
Bolt
3
9
2K 2545
Washer
3
10
DAM 2576
Plate
1
11
22H 15
Bush
2
12
228372
Gasket
1
13
228405
Gasket
1
14
228295
Bush
1
15
228 684
Front cover
1
16
88G 545
Oil seal
1
17
228385
Gasket
1
18
22B 319
Gasket
1
19
22B 356
Nut
1
20
22H 798
Lock tab
1
21
6K 778
Shim
A/R
Size 2 thou.
21
6K 779
Shim
A/R
Size 4 thou.
22
6K 780
Spring ring
1
23
6K 777
Bearing
1
24
22B 703
1st motion shaft
1
25
22H 774
3rd motion shaft bearing
1
26
22H 772
3rd motion shaft nut
1
27
22H 773
Lock tab
1
28
8G 3032
3rd motion shaft
1
29
228611
Overdrivecam
1
30
37H 1911
Circlip
1
31
22B 588
Main bearing carrier
1
32
13H 7268
Main bearing
1
33
22B 464
Shim
A/R
Size 2 thou.
33
22B 465
Shim
A/R
Size 5 thou.
33
22B 466
Shim
A/R
Size 10 thou.
34
22B 425
Distance Piece
1
35
22B 516
Locktab
1
36
22B 515
Rearnut
1
37
NKC 39
Overdrive oil seal
1
38
22B 619
Overdrive rear flange
1
39
37H 3877
Rear overdrive nut
1
40
22H 1028
3rd and 4th baulk ring
2
41
22H 1168
3rd and 4th synchronizer
1
42
22H 1062
Sleeve
1
43
22B 562
3rd gear
1
44
22H 281
Gearbush
3
45
22H 1034
Interlock
1
46
22B 560
2nd gear
1
47
22H 276
2nd gear thrust
1
48
88G 397
lst/2nd baulk ring
3
49
DAM 4104
1st/2nd synchronizer
1
50
22H 827
Synchronizer spring
6
51
BLS 109
Ball
6
52
DAM 597
1st gear
1
53
DAM 1740
Reverse gear
1
DAM 2147
Spacingwasher
1
54
22H 308
Reverse gear idler
1
55
22H 310
Bush
1
56
88G 467
Reverse shaft
1
57
1B 3363
Lock tab
1
58
1G 3581
Locating nut
1
59
22B 691
Front thrust washer
1
60
22H 477
Circlip
2
61
22B 702
Lay gear
1
62
22B 280
Lay shaft
1
63
22H 478
Spacer tube
1
64
AHU 1041
Lay gear bearing
2
65
22B 692
Thrust rear
1
0.134"
65
22B 693
Thrust rear
1
0.131"
65
22B 694
Thrust rear
1
0.127"
1 tooth difference to original
0.124"
65
22B 695
Thrust rear
1
0.124"
65
22B 696
Thrust rear
1
0.120"
66
22B 687
Overdrive - new
1
66
22B 687E
Overdrive - exchange
1
67
37H 1943
Magnet set
1
68
37H 1942
Filter assembly
1
69
37H 1946
Screw
6
70
37H 1934
Solenoid valve kit
1
71
NKC 102
O-ring
1
72
NKC 99
O-ring
1
73
37H 1935
Coil only
1
74
BLS 106
Ball valve
1
75
37H 1939
O-ring
1
76
37H 1941
Gasket
1
77
53K 126
Screw
4
78
37H 3463
Speedo drive
1
79
NKC 101
O-ring
1
80
37H 1955
Speedo bearing
1
81
NKC 105
Oil seal
1
82
37H 1957
Lock plate
1
83
37H 1959
Screw
1
84
120694
Angle drive
1
SGB 0008
Gasket set
1
SECTION E - Cooling
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
REMARKS
1
ARA 2634
Plug - plastic
1
Alternative
1
ARA 2404
Plug - brass
1
Alternative
2
TRS 1418
O-ring
1
Alternative
2
TRS 1418A
Plasticseal
1
3
GRH 1002/M
Hose - radiator/expansion tank
1/3 metre
3
GRH 1001/M
Hose overflow
1/2 metre
4
21K8341
Clip for above
2
5
ARH 250
Expansion tank
1
6
BHH 2132
Mounting bracket
1
7
GRC 110
Tank pressure cap
1
8
ARC 88
Radiator
1
Chrome bumper
8
ARC 88/E
Radiator - reconditioned
1
Chrome bumper
8
NRP 1059
Radiator
1
Rubber bumper
8
NRP 1059/E
Radiator - reconditioned
1
Rubber bumper
9
GRH 512
Top hose
1
10
GHC 1622
Jubilee clip
2
Alternatives
10
GHC 1622/A
Wire clip
2
11
GRH 511
Bottom hose
1
12
GHC 1217
Jubilee clip
2
Alternatives
12
GHC 1217/A
Wire clip
2
Alternatives
13
BHH 1304
LH bracket
1
13
BHH 1052
RH bracket
1
14
GWP 310
Water pump
1
15
610756
Gasket
1
16
ERC 2279
Hose 90/elbow
1
17
ERC 2278
S shaped hose
1
18
602582
Pump pulley
1
19
GFB 11125
Fan belt
1
20
BHH 1005
Thermostat housing
1
21
GTS 104
Thermostat
1
22
GTG 125
Thermostat gasket
1
23
BHH 1064
Steam hose
1
24
BHH 1082
Hose - heater
1
25
BHH 1083
Hose - heater to outlet pipe
1
26
BHA 5297
Heater tap
1
27
12H 3868
Heater - tap gasket
1
28
BHA 5407
Heater-control cable
1
28
BHH 1230
Air control cable
1
29
BHA 5226
Heater control
1
29
BHA 4327
Air control
1
Chrome bumper
30
BHA 4334
Heater knob
1
Chrome bumper
30
BHH 738
Air knob
1
Rubber bumper
30
BHH 1687
Heater knob
1
Rubber bumper
30
BHH 1688
Air knob
1
31
BHH 1305
Fan guard
1
32
BHH 1028
RH motor bracket
1
33
BHH 1306
LH motor bracket
1
34
BHH 1029
Mounting bracket
2
2
35
ALU 1081
Fan - motor
36
13H 8238
Fan
2
37
37H 8572
Fan - locating screw
2
38
UKC 5146
Relay
1
Alternatives
SECTION F - Exhaust System and Components
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
GEX 7204
Centre mounting
1
2
BH 605221
Bolt
1
REMARKS
3
GEX 7182
Bush
4
GEX 7183
Bracket
2
1
5
GEX 7201
Rear mounting bracket
1
Chrome bumper
5
GEX 7442
Rear mounting bracket
1
Rubber bumper
6
GEX 7202
Bracket
1
7
GEX 7203
Clip
2
8
GEX 7251
Mounting
2
9
AHC 442
Insulator
4
10
GEX 7193
O-ring gasket
2
11
GEX 138
Exhaust system
1
Chrome bumper
11
GEX 158
Exhaust system
1
Rubber bumper
SECTION G - Rear Axle and Propshaft Assembly
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
BTB 674
Gasket
1
2
DAM 2441
Back plate
1
3
6K 499
Filler/drain plug
2
4
21H 6060
Breather
1
5
BTA 249
Nut
2
6
BTA 243
Collar
2
7
BTB 187
Stud
8
8
DAM 4122
Drive flange
2
2
9
AAA 982
Collar taper
10
GHS 179
Oil seal
2
11
BTB 682
Hub bearing cap
2
12
GHB 158
Bearing
2
REMARKS
13
BTB 681
Spacer
2
14
BTB 700
Half shaft
2
15
BTB 900
CW&P
1
16
BTB 432
Bolt
8
17
BTC 9001
Bearing differential
2
18
BTB 871
Pinion pin
1
19
BTB 1249
Differential pinion
2
20
1G 7445
Thrust
2
21
BTB 428
Gear wheel differential
2
22
ATB 7072
Thrust
2
23
539706
Inner bearing
1
24
BTB 853
Collapsible spacer
1
25
549420
Outer bearing
1
26
BTB 1326
Oil seal
1
27
BTC 350
Dust cover
1
28
BTB 855
Prop flange
1
29
BTB 933
Washer
1
30
BTB 753
Nut
1
31
AHH 9268
B Hubcap badge
4
32
BHH 1060
Hubcap
4
33
BHH 1087
Wheel nut
16
34
AHC 113
Prop shaft
1
34
AHC 113/E
Reconditioned propshaft
1
35
22B 483
Bolt gearbox end
4
35
53K 117
Bolt axle end
4
GHF 223
Nut
8
36
600656
Range
2
37
GUJ 108
Universal joint
2
38
27H 8095
Sleeve yoke
1
3.071:1
SECTION H - Steering and Front Suspension
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
REMARKS
1
BHH 868/F
Reconditioned steering rack
1
Chrome bumper
1
BHH 1597/E
Reconditioned steering rack
1
Rubber bumper
2
BHM 7124
1 pair gaiters and clips
1 set
3
GSJ 168
Track rod end
2
4
17H 3501
Gaiter
2
5
53K 320
Nut
2
6
ADG 1682
Clip-large
2
7
3H2963
Clip-small
2
8
AHH 6007
Shim
A/R
9
18G 8905
Steering lock
1
10
AHH 6000
Universal joint
1
Chrome bumper
10
575732
Universal joint
1
Rubber bumper
11
17H 3873
Universal joint repair kit
1
Chrome bumper only
12
AAU 1161
Horn push
1
13
BHH 1307
Steering wheel
1
14
BHH 2103
Nut steering wheel
1
15
BHH 806
Steering column
1
Chrome bumper
15
BHH 1596
Steering column
1
Rubber bumper
16
BHA 5041
Horn brush
1
17
BHA 5042
Horn slip ring
1
18
BHH 803
Cross member
1
19
AHH 6205
Upper pad
4
20
AHH 6204
Bolt mounting
2
20
BHH 805
Bolt mountkig
2
21
AHH 6206
Mounting pad - lower
4
4
22
23
AHH 6207
Plate clamp
LNZ 108
Nut
8
AHC 146
Anti roll bar bolt
2
FNZ 108
Nut
2
24
AHH 5939
ARB brush
2
Use with AHC 146
25
BHH 882
Anti roll bar
1
Chrome bumper
25
BHH 1217
Anti roll bar
1
Rubber bumper
26
AHH 6543
RH link
1
26
AHH 6544
LH link
1
27
21A 667
Upper locator
2
Chrome bumper
28
21A 668
Lower locator
2
Chrome bumper
29
AHH 6546
Locator
4
Rubber bumper
30
1B 7356
Mounting strap
2
31
1B 4526
Mounting bush
2
Chrome bumper
31
AHH 6541
Mounting bush
2
Rubber bumper
32
GSA 119
Front shock absorbers
2
BL new unit
32
GSA 119A
2
BL reconditioned
32
GSA 119E
2
Standard reconditioned
33
1G 4349
Top fulcrum pin
2
NL 607041
Nut
2
34
8G 621
Bush
4
35
AHH 6514
Rebound buffer
2
36
AAA 5024
Distance piece
2
37
BHH 1077
Front spring
2
38
BTB 396
RH steering arm
1
38
BTB 397
LH steering arm
1
39
BTB 410
Bolt
4
40
ATC 4249A
Top castle nut
2
41
ATC 4249
Trunnion block
2
42
BTB 764E
RH exchange swivel and king pin
1
42
BTB 765E
LH exchange swivel and king pin
1
42
BTB 764A
RH exchange swivel and king pin
1
Using BL king pin
42
BTB 765A
LH exchange swivel and king pin
1
Using BL king pin
43
BTB 183
Spacer
2
44
GHS 101
Oil seal
2
45
GHB 105
Inner bearing
2
46
88G 484
Spacer
2
47
ATB 4240
3 thou. shim
A/R
47
ATB 4241
5 thou. shim
A/R
47
ATB 4242
10 thou. shim
A/R
47
BTB 656
30 thou. shim
A/R
48
BTB 187
Stud
8
49
DAM 4121
Hub
2
50
2A 4067
Cap
2
51
GHB 102
Bearing
2
GHK 1005
Bearing kit
2
1A 4742
Keyed washer
2
52
Comprises 44,45 & 51
53
53K 330
Nut
2
54
804221
King pin set
2
BL original
54
8G 4221A
King pin set
2
Not BL
55
BTB 768
Lower trunnion bush
2
56
1G 4271
Dust tube top
2
57
2K 8951
Dust tube spring
2
58
21B 251
Dust tube bottom
2
59
NL 608041
Castle nut
4
60
AAA 1330
Washer
61
BHH 1123
Bush
4
4
62
AHH 5927
RH front wishbone
1
62
AHH 5929
LH front wishbone arm
1
62
AAA 1326
Rear wishbone arm
2
63
AHH 5925
Spring pan
2
64
AHH 4003
Inner pivot
2
65
ACB 5255
Inner pivot bolt
8
66
LNZ 106
Inner nut
4
High tensile nut
66
FNZ 506
Outer nut
4
High tensile nut
67
ND 608041
Castle nut
2
68
BHH 1773
Distance tube
2
69
AAA 1323
Seal
4
70
AAA 1390
Thrust
4
71
AAA 1324
Seal support
4
72
AHH 4001
Special bolt
2
T grade bolts
T grade high tensile
SECTION H - Rear Suspension
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
REMARKS
1
GSA 328
RH shock absorber
1
BL new chrome bumper
1
GSA 329
LH shock absorber
1
BL new chrome bumper
1
GSA 328E
RH shock absorber
1
Reconditioned chrome bumper
1
GSA 329E
LH shock absorber
1
Reconditioned chrome bumper
1
GSA 368
RH shock absorber
1
BL new rubber bumper
1
GSA 367
LH shock absorber
1
BL new rubber bumper
1
GSA 368A
RH shock absorber
1
BL reconditioned rubber bumper
1
GSA 367A
LH shock absorber
1
BL reconditioned rubber bumper
1
GSA 368E
RH shock absorber
1
Reconditioned rubber bumper
1
GSA 367E
LH shock absorber
1
Reconditioned rubber bumper
2
GHF 203
Nut
4
3
GHF 334
Spring washer
4
4
GHF 303
Flat washer
4
5
BH 607261
Bolt
4
Chrome bumper
5
BH 607241
Bolt
2
Rubber bumper
5
BH 607261
Bolt
2
Rubber bumper
6
37H 8075
Link
2
Chrome bumper
6
37H 8778
Link
2
Rubber bumper
7
AHC 109
U-bolt
4
8
GHF 223
Nut
8
9
AHH 9158
Bump stop
2
10
BHH 1030
Pedestal
2
Chrome bumper
10
AHH 7335
Pedestal
2
Rubber bumper
11
AHH 7334
Plate locating
4
12
ACG 5002
Spring seat - rubber
4
13
AHH 7337
RH bottom plate
1
13
AHH 7338
LH bottom plate
1
14
BHH 1133
Spring assembly
2
Chrome bumper
14
BHH 1771
Spring assembly
2
Rubber bumper
15
AHH 6446
Front spring bush
2
16
GHF 203
Nut
2
17
GHF 334
Washer
2
18
BH 607241
Bolt
2
19
AHH 5018
Shackle
2
20
2A5176
Bush
8
21
AHH 5019
Shackle plate
2
22
GHF 333
Washer
4
23
GHF 202
Nut
4
24
BH 605151
Check strap bolt
2
25
AHH 6162
Distance tube
2
26
8HH 989
Check strap
2
27
GHF 301
Washer
2
28
GHF 331
Spring washer
2
29
GHF 201
Nut
2
30
GHF 202
Nut
2
31
GHF 332
Spring washer
2
31
GHF 302
Flat washer
2
SECTION I - Brake, Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
REMARKS
1
8G8258
Brake master cylinder repair kit
1
Changed during production
1
BHM 7125
Brake master cylinder repair kit
1
Changed during production
2
SHA 5076
Servo
1
AAU 2071
Servo-hose to valve
1
3
GMC 15Q
Brake master cylinder
1
4
233220
Gasket
3
Servo & master cylinders
5
7H7851
Banjo
2
Servo & brake master
cylinders
6
3H550
Gasket
3
Servo & master cylinders
7
C5192
Banjo bolt
2
Master cylinders
8
BHA 4310
Banjo
1
Clutch master cylinders
9
AHH 8556
Cover
1
10
AHH 6156
Seal
1
11
AHH 7052
Seal
1
Chrome bumper
11
BHH 1608
Seal
1
Rubber bumper
12
AHH 8522
Brake pedal
1
12
AHH 6154
Clutch pedal
1
13
AAA 4129
Pivot bush
2
14
AAA 1628
Return spring
2
15
AHH 5100
Pedal rubber
2
16
CLZ 514
Clevis pin
2
17
AHH 8421
Master cylinder box
1
18
513123
Filler cap
1
19
BHA 5217
Clutch master cylinder
1
20
8G8730
Repair kit - clutch master cylinder
1
21
37H 8090
Clutch master cylinder push rod
1
21
17H 7985
Brake master cylinder push rod
1
22
BHA 4675
Brake switch
23
NT 606041
Locknut
24
DAM 620
Slave cylinder
25
BHM 7061
Repair kit
1
26
3H2428
Bleed nipple
1
27
13H 3655
Push rod
1
28
2K 5622
Clevis pin
1
29
ACC 5509
Flexible hose
1
30
2K 8686
Lock nut
1
31
90577490
Connector 3-way
2
32
GBH 159
Rear brake hose
1
33
BCA 4002
Connector
1
34
TM 606031
Connector male
A/R
35
11D 5050
Connector female
A/R
36
GBH 158
Front brake hose
2
Fitted up to GD2DI 2707
36
GBH 172
Front brake hose
2
Fitted from GD2D1 2708
37
233220
Seal
3
38
NT 606041
Nut
3
39
1G 9198
Locking plate
3
1
SECTION I - Front and Rear Brakes
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
37H 8100
RH caliper
1
REMARKS
1
37H 8099
LH caliper
1
2
BTC 114
Lock tab
2
3
ATB 4074
Locating bolt
4
High tensile bolt
4
BTB 198
Disc bolt
8
High tensile bolt
FNZ 506
Disc nut
8
High tensile nut
5
BTB 1319
Disc
2
6
BTB 1320
RH back plate
1
6
BTB 1321
LH back plate
1
7
GBP 212
4 brake pads
1 set
8
PS610241
Split pin
4
9
17H 7990
Anti rattle spring
4
10
GBH 158
Front brake hose
2
All chrome and upto GD2D1
2707 rubber bumper
10
GBH 172
Front brake hose
2
From GD2D1 2707 rubber
bumper
11
37H 8100 A
Caliper piston
4
12
8G 8641
Caliper seal kit
2
13
3H 2428
Bleed nipple
2
14
BTB 706
Brake drum
2
15
17H 7994
RH pull off spring
1
15
17H 7995
LH pull off spring
1
Do not split caliper body
16
27H 6478
Pull off spring - adjuster end
2
17
27H 6479
Handbrake pull off spring
2
18
17H 7993
Steady pin
4
19
17H 7969
Steady spring
4
20
17H 7971
Clip washer
4
21
17H 8057
Hand brake lever boot
2
22
37H 2005
RH hand brake lever
1
22
37H 2006
LH hand brake lever
1
23
513107
Adjuster assembly
2
27H 2203
Wedge screw
2
27H 6472
Tappet
4
2
24
GWC 1103
Wheel cylinder
25
8G 8674
Repair kit
2
26
17H 7949
Retaining clip
2
27
513118
Bleed nipple
2
28
GBS 772
Brake shoe set
2
29
27H 6476
RH back plate
1
29
27H 6477
LH back plate
1
30
GBH 159
Rear brake hose
1
31
SF604051
Brake drum screw
4
Part of 513107
32
AHH 8450
Hand brake cable
1
Chrome bumper
32
BHH 1470
Hand brake cable
1
Rubber bumper
GBF 101
Brake fluid
1
Small
GBF 102
Brake fluid
1
Medium
GBF 103
Brake fluid
1
Large
GAT 101
Brake bleed valve kit
1
SECTION J - Ignition Systems, Starter Motors and
Alternators
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
GDC 117
Distributor cap
1
2
608194
Vacuum unit
1
3
GRA 112
Rotor arm
1
4
GCS 117
Points
1
5
GSC 111
Condenser
1
6
614033
Distributor
1
7
602397
Clamp
1
8
513682
O-ring
1
9
614768
High tension coil to distributor
1
10
GHT 107
Complete high tension lead set
1
11
GCL 111
Coil
1
12
603673
Spacer for high tension leads
2
13
37H 4229/M
Vacuum pipe
1
REMARKS
2/3 metre
14
12B 2095
Straight pipe connector
1
15
12B 2062
90 degree pipe connector
1
16
BHA 5195
Alternator
1
16
BHA 5195E
Alternator - exchange
1
17
602369
Fixing bracket
1
18
BHH 997
Adjusting bracket
1
19
BHA 5223
Starter
1
19
BHA 5223/E
Starter - exchange
1
20
BAU 1091
Solenoid
1
21
37H 8048
Kit - drive roller clutch
1
22
GSB 111
Starter brushes
1 set
23
BHH 1260
Heat shield
1
90611504
Starter mounting bolt
2
SECTION J - Switches and Wiring Harness
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
18G 9012
Indicator cowl
1
REMARKS
2
BHA 5113
Heater switch
1
3
BHA 5296
Rear window heater switch
1
4
BHA 5267
Hazard warning switch
1
5
BHA 5111
Light switch
1
6
37H 7994
Panel light switch
1
7
37H 7995
Knob for above
1
8
37H 8101
Indicator switch
1
9
37H 8102
Horn brush and bracket
1
10
BHH 402
Indicator cancel mechanism
1
11
BHA 5251
Wiper/washer/overdrive switch
1
12
13H 2018
Tailgate light switch
1
13
BHA 4593
Interior light switch
1
14
ZKC 1152
Lighter
1
15
563417
Starter relay
1
All chrome bumper models
16
CHM 68
Starter relay
1
Rubber bumper, GD2D1
2742 on
17
37H 4727
Fuse box
1
37H 4727 A
Fuse box cover
1
18
BHH 1223
Main harness
1
18
BHH 385
Body and boot harness
1
Chrome bumper
18
BHH 1742
Body and boot harness
1
Rubber bumper
SECTION K - Speedos, Rev Counters and Washer
Bottle
NO.
PART NO.
4
BHH 1285
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
REMARKS
Note: Up to GD221 1148: oil pressure reading taken from filter housing.
Pipe (filter to flexible connector) 1
Note: From GD2D1 1149: oil pressure reading taken from oil pump base.
1
AHA 6392
Pipe (oil pump to flexible
connector)
1
5
BHH 1347
Flexi hose
1
3
88G 308
Clips
2
4
BHH 1345
Pipe (flexible-to-flexible)
1
Note: All models require these parts at the oil pressure gauge end.
Pipe (gauge to flexible
connector)
1
CHA 600
Flexible connector
1
880308
Clip
2
6
BHA 5331
Dual guage
1
6
SDG 4004 E Reconditioned dual gauge
1
7
BHA 5212
1
7
MGP 1810
OOE
Tacho-reconditioned
1
8
BHA 5210
Speedo SN 5230/uS
1
8
MGP 5230
11E
Speedo reconditioned
1
9
GSD 115
Speedo cable
1
11
GWW 125
Washer pump
1
12
BHH 1154
Bracket
1
13
GWW 901
Bottle
1
14
GWW 952
Cap
1
15
GWW 951
Filler adaptor
1
4
BHH 1281
2
3
Tacho RVC/1810/00
One for one only.
One for one only.
One for one only.
SECTION L - Grilles, Badges and Door Mirrors
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
REMARKS
1
BHH 824
Honeycombe grille assembly
(original)
1
Chrome bumper models
1
BHH 831
Grille surround (original)
1
2
BHH 829
Grillebadge-red
1
3
ARH 1800
Plinth
1
4
BHH 1614
Air grille duct
1
Rubber bumper models
5
BHH 1753
Mesh grille
1
6
CHA 344
Red/silver nose badge
1
GD2D1 2101 to 2722
6
CHA 544
Black/silver nose badge
1
GD2D1 2723 to 2903
7
BHH 1400
RH GT rear quarter flash
1
GD2D1 2723 to 2903
7
BHH 1401
LH GT rear quarter flash
1
GD2D1 2723 to 2903
8
BHH 855
Tailgate badge - blue flash
1
All models upto GD2D1
2722.
8
HZA 5024
Tailgate badge - black flash
1
GD2D1 2723 on
9
CZH 2717
House badge
1
Nearside wing only
10
HZA 4701
V8 badge
3/2
Qty reduced on rubber
bumper
10
HZA 5022
V8 badge - gold
2
Last few cars only
8
HZA 5023
Tailgate badge - gold
1
Last few cars only
6
CHA 507
Nose badge - gold
1
11
GAM 211
Offside mirror - convex
1
11
GAM 212
Nearside mirror - convex
1
11
GAM 213
Offside mirror - flat
1
11
GAM 214
Nearside mirror - flat
1
SECTION M - Jacks, Tools and Wheel Caps
NO.
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
QTY/CAR
1
BHA 5329
Jack
1
2
AHH 6540
Tool roll
1
3
BHH 1111
Spare wheel clamp
1
4
BHH 1086
Spanner
5
BHH 1087
Wheel nut
16
6
BHH 1060
Hubcap
4
AHH 9268B Hub cap badge
4
BHH 1330
RH Kangol seat belt Auto
1
BHH 1331
LH Kangol seat belt Auto
1
BHH 938
Seat belt park
2
REMARKS
Use with BHH 1060.
This British Leyland publicity photo appeared on the back cover of the Moss
parts catalog.
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University Motors - MG Distributors
This advertisement appeared in "Classic Car" magazine, in the issue dated October 1973.
V8 MGB GT & MGB
For immediate or early delivery.
Personal tax free exports.
209 Balham High Road
London SW17 Tel: 01-675 0241
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/University-Motors-V8-MGB.htm
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Classics for 1974: MGB GT V8
Re-printed unedited by exclusive written permission of "Classic Car".
This article originally appeared in their inaugural October 1973 issue.
It would be unkind to extol the virtues of the new MG under a 'return of the big Healey' banner, but this is certainly the nearest in the British Leyland sports car range to the last of the Austin
Healey 3000s. Anyway the big Healey has returned in between, first as the lamentable but lamented MGC - killed by the press but improved too late to recover - and the Datsun 240Z. The MG
V8 is a muscle car in performance terms with all the charming practicability of the MGB GT in an uprated shell.
Despite strong denials of its existence, even in the face of the well-known Costello productions, British Leyland started work on this car in summer 1971. Market research had shown that large
production sports cars stay around for some time - inevitable with fewer cars to carry tooling costs - that there was a market gap for a developed sports car to compete against the sporty coupes,
and that there was a trend for sports cars to have engines over 2.5-litres. The compact, lightweight Rover V8 developed from the Buick engine, was an obvious choice. In basic terms it is 40 lb.
lighter than the cast-iron MGB 1.8-litre but by the time the anti-noise, anti-emission ancillaries have been added the power plant is heavier than the original.
Inevitably the recent safety and emission laws have taken a lot of engineer's development time for no outward difference; this has put off more than one model launch and has certainly delayed
the arrival of this one. So it wasn't just a question of slotting a clean V8 into an existing design. In keeping with the low-octane fuel requirements the compression ratio has now been lowered to
8.25:1 for 94-octane fuel; to maintain the normal B bonnet line twin SU's are mounted at the back of the engine, facing rearwards and breathing through a pair of pancake filters on top of the
camboxes; these inhale the general underbonnet air and from a collector over the exhaust manifold, with a bimetallic valve adjusting the quantities of hot and less-hot air. Against the quoted 180
gross bhp from the original 3500 engine, the B version now produces 137 net bhp, or under 50 per cent more than the original 1.8-litre. The new torque figure - 193 lb.ft. - is the best reflection of
the capabilities of the larger engine.
To fit it in, changes have been made to the bulkhead and to the front cross member while the wheelarches have been reshaped to clear the exhaust plumbing. The gearbox is a re-ratioed MGC
one with higher intermediates (much nicer) and a larger bellhousing for a bigger clutch. Giving maxima in the gears of 41, 64, 99 and 124 the ratios are very well chosen to give that equal mph
span per gear (apart from first) that gives ideal acceleration. A Laycock overdrive on the back gives an 18 per cent rev, drop which is ideal for fast and effortless cruising best reflected by fuel
consumption improvements of 10 per cent or more over 80 mph. The final drive at 3.07:1 is also from the MGC. To cope with the extra torque the leaf rear springs have been uprated and so
have the front coils, partly to maintain the balance of roll and pitch rates and also to compensate for the extra weight on the front wheels. The steering rack has been moved to lighten the
steering by decreasing castor as the tyres are a section up on standard GT at 175HR-14. These are mounted on 5J wheels with cast alloy centres riveted to chrome steel rims.
http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MGBGTV8-Classic-Car.htm
Virtually unchanged from that of the MGB GT, the interior for the V8 is spartan
for the price with its rubber matting and crackle black metal fascia.
Somewhat disappointingly, the facia layout is virtually unchanged; the fresh air grilles of recent adoption are good but the rotary heater controls have never been easy to use. Rubber flooring
doesn't really live up to the new big GT image but the seats are an improvement with good adjustment.
Not only does the big V8 sound quite different, it is also a lot quieter from the moment it starts than the old B-series unit. Even when wound up to 5000 rpm it is still only a muted thrum which
you only begin to notice around 3000 rpm - 85 mph in overdrive top. Obviously the MG engineers have done a good job on mountings and insulation. Cruising along at 70 mph is very restful,
apart from a certain amount of curable wind-noise and is quite easy on the pocket too at 275 mpg on 3-star fuel. A torque-engine capable of pulling strongly from around 1000 rpm means that
most of your motoring will be in third and top, in 600 miles of out-of-town running we recorded 23.2 mpg which compares very well with a staff Jensen-Healey which makes harder work of
similar averages for 20 mpg.
Actual figures of 0-60 mph in 7.7 seconds and 30-70 mph in 12 seconds in 3rd tell most of the story. We didn't check the maximum speed but the factory claim 124 mph at 5300 rpm in direct
top, just 300 rpm over the peak. Overdrive, engaged by the washer/wiper stalk on the column, doesn't help outright performance. If you want to play tunes on the gearbox it is very nice to use
but not really necessary, except perhaps in the Alps.
The chassis is the least satisfactory part of the marriage; when the MGB first came out in 1962 with the usual wishbone front, leaf spring live axle rear layout, the ride was reckoned to be very
good. Alright, it rolled more than the MGA, but the ride was definitely good for a sports car of that era.
With the BGT in 1965 it was firmer but still quite good, the roadholding on the 5J wheels which were standard was certainly good enough for all normal road use. Now with the GT V8 and
stiffer springing all round the ride is poor particularly by modern standards; others have shown that a live axle ride can still be good. On most main roads it is quite acceptable and there is very
little road noise, but on bumpy roads it feels as though most of the road amplitude is passed to the occupants. Uncomfortable at times.
Somehow the car feels heavier than the 1.8 B GT, but more solid due to better insulation; the steering is direct but firm and kickback is minimal. Roadholding on big tyres is good within the
limitation imposed by the surface and you can throw the car around quite happily; it takes a lot of power to shift the tail on wet roads too.
Seats and driving position are good and most sizes can find a comfortable position with good visibility. With the back seat, strictly for [children] under 7, folded down there is a useful luggage
area and it is easy to load through the lift-up tailgate.
The great charm of the MG's is that they are thoroughly honest vehicles which will never get you into trouble; they are always predictable and essentially reliable. At its best on open roads as
a long legged tourer it is just as suited to shopping trips. There is just one drawback - the price at £2310 including the nice inertia reel seat belts is rather higher than expected. You could
have the Rover 3500S for the same!
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A Tale of Two Vees
1973 MGB GT (plus Rover) versus 1967 Sunbeam (plus Ford)
Re-printed unedited by exclusive written permission of "Classic Car".
This article originally appeared in their inaugural October 1973 issue.
"To accept depreciation or not, that is the question. Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous production. Or to take up arms against a sea of troubles and
by opposing, end them."
We are not too concerned with your mental nobility but more with that of your bank manager in this series. Not all second hand cars are likely to be a sea of troubles any more than current
production cars are likely to pepper the mind with slings and arrows, but you get the picture and Shakespeare put it more succinctly.
No excuse is needed for comparing these two. They are both professional shoehorn jobs the with the intention of converting mundane sports tourers into classic he-men sports cars. As a
new car the MGB GT V8 costs £2,294; "our" Tiger, a rare 4.7-litre right hand drive version with hardtop, Minilites and Konis is priced at £1,500. The graphs of appreciation and depreciation
will cross during the next year or two at some £1,750. Which do you buy?
We'll start by considering them as cars on the road today. They are both fast; in fact the 0-60 mph time recorded by Motor for the MGB was 7.7 sec, while Autocar recorded 7.8 sec on the 4.7
Tiger that our Publishing Director Maurice Smith used to run. Maximum speeds too are very similar with the Tiger getting into the red at 5,500 rpm with 125 mph and the MGB hitting the same
speed at 5,400 rpm in direct top - overdrive, giving 28.5 mph per 1,000 rpm, is ideal for effortless cruising but no help to more performance. The Tiger certainly felt as though it was still
capable of the same sort of figures.
Both are lazy cars too with Tiger torque at 282 lb/ft (gross) at 2,200 rpm and the MG 193 lb/ft (net) at 2,900 rpm; the MG at 211 cwt is ten per cent lighter than the Tiger’s 231 cwt so the
feel is much the same. Both can pull easily from under 1,500 rpm; the Tiger’s surge of power is just a steady rush all the way up while the MG gets into its stride from 2,600 rpm onwards.
The Tiger II gearbox had lower intermediate ratios than the original Tiger but it still had a higher first than the MG. Both boxes are nice to use with close ratios if you want the ultimate
performance for overtaking but most of the time you stick to third gear for roundabouts. The Borg-Warner in the Tiger has a long travel but is no heavier to use.
Bigger engines tend to be thirstier engines and the Tiger returned 15-20 mpg for town and country use while a 600-mile mixture with the MG gave 23.2 mpg which could make quite a
saving over a large annual mileage.
As both cars have their origins from over ten years ago - Alpine 1959 and MGB 1962 - there isn't a lot to choose between them on styling. Certainly the Tiger doesn't look dated against the
MGB GT although the latter is still current. Both cars are 2+vestigial 2 with the MG having the advantage of the lift-up rear door for easy loading, but losing to the Tiger if you want to
conceal your luggage from the public gaze. One might have expected the MGB interior to look modern and more aware of safety padding than the Tiger, but it still uses the same old
crackle black tin fascia with a padded top while the Tiger's wooden facia still looks attractive. The MG has a padded steering wheel though, which is much better looking than the stock
mock-wood of the other, as well as safer.
It's in suspension that the difference is more obvious;
although both employ the same basic layout with a leaf
sprung rear axle, the Tiger is much more jiggly on bumpy
surfaces and could be really quite tiring on a long
secondary road run. One would like to be able to say that
the MG is a lot better, but whereas the ride is quieter it
isn't a lot smoother over the same surfaces. Once on fast
main roads though, the MGB is much more effortless with
its long-legged overdrive and engine virtually inaudible up
to 3,500 rpm beyond the note changes to a gentle thrum.
The Tiger engine is as effortless but audible and the ride
always firm, and there are one or two rattles. Steering on
both is fairly similar, heavy but reasonably direct and both
are responsive on their big radials.
There wasn't much difference in wind noise either but the
Tiger hardtop is inherently noisy while BGTs vary and the
noise is thus theoretically curable.
The Tiger we chose came from Nostalgia at 27 London
Road, Hertford Heath, Hertsfordshire and was certainly in
very good condition; it had 25,000 miles on the clock
which looked genuine from the condition of the interior and
under the bonnet. The first Tigers with the 4.2-litre Ford
were shown as Alpine 260s in October 1964; Tiger II in
1967 came as a 4.7-litre version for export only. However
a handful of the 4.7s were made with right hand drive,
about 20 out of over 600; some came from George
Hartwell, some went to the police and a few, like the one
Maurice Smith ran, came out of the Rootes development
department. This car was a 1967 one. Against the 4.2
Tiger the 4.7-litre engine gave 174 against 141 bhp, a
greater increase than that due to mere litres, so it is a little
more stressed but by European standards it is hardly
working which breeds longevity.
Just as graphs of appreciation/depreciation will cross so we need a graph of viability against annual mileage. The Tiger is a practical toy while the B is well set to give satisfaction over
a long period; we would reckon that around 10,000 miles a year is reasonable for the Tiger to conserve both car and enthusiasm for it. For anything greater you need the B with its
easier serviceability and parts availability. In fact you can still get Tiger parts and Ford engine bits but they are getting fewer. Of course the Tiger was almost not a Rootes product with
a trimmed body from Pressed Steel, engine from Ford with a Borg Warner manual box, Salisbury back axle and the whole lot assembled by Jensen, so you may need to go to the
original manufacturers for parts. Some 6,500 Tiger I's were built so it may pay to get a worn out one to keep your Tiger II going; at the moment though, there seemed to be no
suggestion that this car wouldn’t keep running reliably for some time yet. Take your pick.
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Classic Choice
MGB GT V8
Scarcely a sales success, nonetheless the Rover V8-powered MGB GT V8 was and is a pleasant performance
package. Graham Robson unfolds its development history and tells you what to look out for when buying one.
Re-printed unedited by exclusive written permission of "Thoroughbred and Classic Cars".
This article originally appeared in their December 1982 issue.
The MGB GT V8 was a fine car - fast, elegant, long-legged, and mechanically simple - but there was always one abiding problem. It didn't sell. British Leyland launched it with
high hopes in 1973, and dropped it without fanfare in the autumn of 1976. Hailed as an instant classic when it was new, the V8 then took time actually to earn that reputation all
over again.
Even so, this smart fastback coupe had almost everything a lover of classic cars would want, including the fact that it was relatively rare (only 2591 were ever built) and that parts,
interchangeability, and the existence of service expertise were all available. Many of these cars still exist, there is a thriving MG club to look after their interests - and they don't
make them like that anymore. So, how does the car stand up to inspection today?
The Solihull connection
The real start of this story dates from 1962, when the MGB was announced or, more accurately, from 1965, when the sleek fastback hatchback coupe version, the MGB GT, was
put on the market. No-one surely, needs to be told that the MGB family was built continuously until 1980, and that more than half a million of all types were built. Nor, I am afraid,
will they need to be reminded that Abingdon production closed down with the last of the MGBs, that the site was then sold off, and that the buildings have now been demolished.
Right from the start, MG management detected a demand for more powerful versions of the MGB. The basic chassis, and the handling, were so good, that much more power and
performance could be absorbed without ruining the balance. Their first solution, and one which was also intended to displace the ageing Big Healey as well, was to produce the
six-cylinder MGC in roadster and GT forms. Between 1967 and 1969, 8999 MGCs were built; at the time, such sales and the behavior of the car were maligned, but calm analysis
of its success in a small market sector shows that it sold remarkably well. However, it was never profitable to BMC/British Leyland, because it had a unique type of torsion bar
front suspension and a very different front structure from that of the MGB. We can thank the MGC, however, for the development of the stronger all-synchromesh gearbox and the
Salisbury axle, which were so valuable to later derivatives.
Following the limited success of Ken Costello in selling converted MGBs with Rover V8 power, MG tried again. By mid-1973 they were ready to launch a new super-fast MGB
derivative with more power than ever the MGC had (in spite of the figures that were published!), and with many fewer different and unique parts. In effect, therefore, the MGB GT
V8 was an MGB GT with an engine transplant - the old BMC B-series unit had been discarded, and it its place was the splendid light-alloy Rover 3.5-litre V8 unit. 95bhp gave way
to 137bhp, and the performance of the car was transformed.
Mechanical layout
The car was amazingly like the original Mk II MGB GT in all important respects, except for the different engine. Whereas with the MGC at least 30 to 50 percent of the body
structure had been changed to accommodate the new engine and front suspension, for the MGB GT V8 changes were positively minimal.
For a start, I must make one thing clear - MG never sold an open version of the car. I know that a handful of cars have been "created" - either by the successors to the Costello
business or by private owners - but each and every factory-produced MGB V8 was a GT, with the coupe body style. The reasons for this were several and various - I discount
the suggestion that the open body was not strong enough to withstand V8 torque and power, but I do believe the theory that very fast open cars do not sell in economically
large numbers anymore.
The basic bodyshell and chassis therefore was the same as that of the MGB GT. Sheet metal differences were confined to different panels in or near the engine bay - notably
the inner wheel arches, toeboards, chassis side members, and oil cooler support platform - while the whole shell was lifted further off the ground to satisfy impending USA
regulations (though the car never went on sale in the USA!) The overall styling, seating arrangements (including +0 rear seats!), lift-up hatchback, instrument layout (but not
the instruments) and the fittings were the same as the MGB GT which is a help when it comes to spares interchangeability.
The engine was basically that of the Rover P5B saloon/coupe, which special inlet and exhaust manifolding by MG, and with twin SU carbs mounted at the rear of the manifold,
close to the passenger bulkhead. However, for space reasons, there were two thermostatically-controlled electric fans mounted ahead of the radiator block.
Apart from the special casing, to mate up with the V8 engine, and the use of different constant-mesh (input) gears, the gearbox was mainly that of the existing MGB, while the
back axle was also the same except for the use of a high (3.07:1) final drive ratio which had already been used on some derivatives of the obsolete MGC. Overdrive was
standard, but it only operated on top gear, and there were no other transmission options - no V8 car was ever sold with automatic transmission.
The basic suspension layout, except for different front and rear springs was exactly the same as that of the MGB, as was the Lockheed braking system. The wheels were very
decorative Dunlop items, with cast alloy centres riveted to steel rims. They were similar to, but not the same, as those fitted to the Costello V8s, and to some Reliant Scimitar
GTEs.
Above, a fairly tight squeeze to shoehorn Rover's V8 into the MGB bay - but it fits!
MGB GT V8 evolution
Sales began in August 1973, from Chassis Number 101, and carried on in original form to Chassis Number 1956. From October 1974, at Chassis Number 2101, cars began to
be built with the massive crash-test black bumpers, a change which also meant the use of different front and rear body sheet metal behind those bumpers. The last 1975
model year car was Chassis Number 2632, but the first 1976 model-year car was Chassis Number 2701. The last car of all, built in September 1976, was Chassis Number
2903.
It is important to realise, therefore, that Chassis Numbers 1957 to 2100, and 2633 to 2700 do not exist - so if you are tempted to buy a car with one of those numbers, it a
certainly a fake!
Just one car, we understand, was built as an Anniversary Special in 1975 (green with gold striping)l but there were no 'Special editions' of any type and the last car of all is
owned by BL Heritage.
Maintenance and restoration
Apart from one well-known problem (the longevity of the hard-worked gearbox) there is little to stop an enthusiast from buying and enjoying an MGB GT V8 except finding
one. When I researched these cars in detail n 1981, I was told that an estimated 1700 still exist, but I was also told that their worth is now recognised and that the market is
very thin. Be prepared therefore, to have to look around for some time to find the car you need - at least your choice will not be too confusing for all have the coupe body,
and all have manual plus overdrive transmission.
There are around 1500 ex-MGB dealers in the UK, but all current BL dealers of whatever persuasion can plug in spares requests to Unipart. This organisation still has a
large stock of MGB GT V8 parts, though special items like engine castings and road wheels are already out of stock, while some soft trim items (seats, carpets, trim panels)
may also be difficult to find.
There is a massive Parts List for all MGBs which, if you can wade through it, contains everything you need to know about the GT V8. If you don't inherit literature with your
car when bought, then one of the MG clubs (of which you surely ought to be a member) can certainly help. Unfortunately there is no Haynes Workshop Manual to cover
these cars.
However, there are good V8s and bad V8s. Like most cars, they are by no means perfect, so if you are shopping around for one of these fast and refined machines, here s
what to look for.
Bodyshell
Fortunately, the MGB was very rugged right from the start, and the GT body handles V8 power with aplomb. After all, a car that can approach 125mph and rush up to
100mph in about 20 seconds needs a stable platform which will not deteriorate with age. V8 cars however are no better or worse than the mass-produced MGBs.
The structural problems may eventually appear to the silI and outer sill areas inside the front wheel arches at the mud traps near the junction with the front toe-boards and
along the top of the front wings. Rust will also tend to appear where the rear wheel arch meets the rear wing itself, and along the edge of the wheel arch cut outs. Doors,
too, tend to get rusty edges particularly at the bottom and there may now be corrosion at panel joints around the massive black plastic bumpers. The worst possible problem
however is that water leaks or sheer bad luck may have affected the floor of the car itself. MoT failure points are of course, the sills and any structural defects around the
main chassis.
Incidentally, there should be no question of water leaking around the aperture of the hatchback - if there is water ingress, this is almost certainly due to faulty seals or (bad
news, this) that the car has at one time been inverted, and badly repaired or renovated afterwards. I don't have to tell you, I hope, to look for any signs of accident repairs in
terms of different colour paint patches, or anything untoward about the underside of the car, particularly near the "corners".
(left) We think the pre-plastic front bumper models look best.
(right) Instruments differ from MGB but arrangement the same.
Suspension and steering
It's a very ordinary front suspension set-up, I'm afraid, which means that bushes and trunnions all tend to wear out. Look at the trunnions and king-pins in particular (apart
from being an MoT failure area, these may accelerate tyre wear if worn), but check all wishbone bushes as well. Fortunately replacements are cheap and not too difficult to
change over. The lever-arm dampers, incidentally, also make up the upper wishbone linkage, so check not only that they are not worn full and not leaking oil, but that their
mounting to the crossmember is secure, for this is another possible corrosion point.
The steering should be light, and should not feel "gritty". The V8 engine is virtually no heavier than the B-series four cylinder it displaced, so the steering should not require
strong muscles. Be sure that it is not rattlely as well - stresses on the teeth are quite high in such an installation - and that there are has been no accident damage to the
mountings. Ball joints wear, too, but you should be able to spot these in a ramp inspection.
Be sure that those expensive and rather exclusive wheels are in good condition. A special tip is to insist on seeing a spare wheel - we have heard of cases where it was not
of the same type as the other four! These wheels are no longer available as new spares, so you can't afford to buy a V8 with one faulty wheel, can you?
Engines, transmissions, brakes
The V8 Rover-built engine is a large under-stressed unit, which therefore has an easy time in the MG. However, I hope the engine oil has always been changed regularly
because the hydraulic tappets will suffer if not. Signs of wear come in the valve gear and rocker shafts, which you should also look for signs of timing chain stretch.
Because the carbs are parallel, and close together, it is easy enough to make sure they are in tune and stay in tune. There should be no excuse for slack fan belts, or for
distributor settings being neglected, for both are easily accessible under the well filled bonnet unlike many comparable large-engined cars.
The significant transmission problem is the gearbox, which is only just up to its job. You can't get complete new transmissions any more, thought I believe overdrives are
available. If a V8 has been used hard, the input or constant-mesh gears eventually suffer, and it's not unknown for teeth to be stripped - so beware noisy or rough
gearboxes - there may be a potential expensive problem. Sluggish overdrive operation, however, is likely to be due to faulty solenoid electrics, rather than an internal
problem. The back axle is fine, which is probably just as well (the only other MG to use 3.07:1 was the 1968 non-overdrive MGC) - but it may be a bit loose and clonky,
for which there is no easy solution.
Even though the brakes are pure MGB four cylinder, they are well up to the job. After all, the V8's no heavier than the four cylinder car - it is merely that it often has to be
stopped from rather higher speeds. Compared with similar fast cars (3.0-litre Capri or Reliant Scimitar, for instance) the V8 is certainly not under braked.
Interiors and decoration
One of the reasons that the MGB GT V8 didn't sell all that well was that it looked almost exactly Ike the same four-cylinder MGB, and many other MGBs that had gone
before. But that makes easier to find parts when you need them for restoration. Externally the only V8 differences are that there are the special road wheels, and V8
badges on the grille and the passenger-side front wing. We've seen some ordinary MGBs, incidentally with V8 badges fitted!
Parts for the interior are becoming difficult to find, particularly on the earlier examples, and I'm afraid that the carpet and seat cover standards were only those of the
1.8-Iitre four-cylinder car. Quite a proportion of the remaining V8s were casually mistreated by their second or third owners, so don't expect miracles when shopping
around.
However, if Unipart cannot supply trim and decoration, suppliers approved by the MG Owners Club usually can, as re-manufactures for the four cylinder cars is now a
thriving and expanding business.
Smart wheels are a MGB GT V8 distinquishing feature.
Experts
I'm sure Peter Laidler will not mind being named as the MGB GT V8 expert, as he owns such a car, and regularly writes on V8 technical matters for MG club magazines.
You find him at:
Peter Laidler,
Howard Cornish Road,
Marcham, OXON.
Interchangeability
Although the MGB GT V8 has been out ot production for more than six years, most parts are still available from Unipart. However, the following hints may help you fill the
gaps.
Bodyshells are almost identical with four cylinder MGB GTs except where noted in the text.
Front and rear suspensions, apart from spring settings, were the same as four cylinder MGB GT.
Wheels were unique, but their centres were the same as those used on Reliant Scimitars of the period (but not the rims).
Engines were broadly the same as Rover V8s fitted to other cars - with low compression Range Rover pistons, and P5B saloon coupe details in some other respects.
Gearboxes had a unique casing, but some internals were the same a four cylinder MGBs in some respects.
Axles were the same as fitted to MGBs of the period, except for the final drive ratio, which is shared with some MGCs.
Spares, Clubs, Values
Many parts common to four-cylinder MGBs and MGB GTs are of course still available, but supplies of special-to-V8 items, whether engine castings, body sheet metal,
or soft trim - are running down fast. Our advice is that you should first look for parts at your nearest reliable MG/BL dealer, but to ask for parts by a known part
number, rather than by the name of the MGB GT V8. (Some dealers, we regret to say, are more helpful than others!)
There are, however two excellent clubs - the MG Owners Club and the MG Car Club, both of which are large organisations with good networks of approved dealers
and specialist suppliers. Your contacts therefore should be:
MG Owners Club
MG Car Club
13 Church End.
67 Wide Bargate
Over.
Boston,
Cambridgeshire,
Lincs, PE21 6LE
Tel: 0954 31125
Tel: 0205 64301
The value of MGB GT V8s has been somewhat depressed by the stigma of the large-capacity engine, but raised by scarcity value. Many of the cars survive, and a
most all of them are still in the UK. We think you may have to pay about 1500 for a scruffy 1973 example which is, after all, nearly ten years old and may be
rust-bitten), but for a really good late-model car (preferably without black bumpers) you might have to pay up to 4000. We doubt if any MG MGB GT V8 is worth more
than that, unless it is concours and intended for showing.
Buying an MGB GT V8: potential problems to look out for.
Specification
Engine: Overhead valve 90 degree V8 cylinder, with five bearing crankshaft, in light-alloy cylinder block. Valves operated by pushrods and rockers from camshaft
mounted in vee of cylinder block; hydraulic tappets. Light alloy cylinder heads, two valve per cylinder, and two SU carburetors. Bore and stroke 88.9 x 71.1 mm,
3528cc. 137bhp (DIN) at 5000rpm. Peak torque 193lb.ft. at 2900 rpm.
Transmission: Four speed all-synchromesh manual gearbox, with remote control change. Plus Laycock overdrive operating on top gear only. No transmission options.
Hypoid bevel final drive 3.07:1 final drive ratio.
Suspension: Independent front coil springs, wishbones, anti-roll bar, lever arm dampers, live rear axle, suspension by half-elliptic leaf springs, and lever arm dampers.
Steering: Rack and pinion, no power assistance.
Brakes: Lockheed hydraulic, disc front and drum rear, with vacuum servo assistance.
Wheels: Cast light/alloy centres with steel rims, four stud fixing, and 5.0in rims. 175HR14in radial ply tyres.
Bodywork: Unit construction pressed steel body / chassis unit, in two door fastback coupe style, with large upward opening hatchback, all right-hand drive except
seven pre-production cars. No alternative styles. No open derivative available. Length (to chassis no. 1956) 12ft 10.7in. (from chassis no 2101) 13ft 2.25in. Unladen
weight 2442 lb.
Performance: Maximum speed 124mph (in overdrive top); 0-60mph 8.6sec, 30-50mph in direct top 6.5sec, 50-70mph in direct top 6.8sec; 70-90mph in direct top
8.3sec; fuel consumption 23.4mpg.
Production: 2584 with right-hand-drive, seven with left-hand-drive.
Annual production:
1972
3
1973
1069
1974
854
1975
489
1976
176
From 1973 to October 1974, 1856 cars were built to "chrome bumper" specification. From October 1974 to September 1976, 735 cars were built to "black bumper"
specification.
BritishV8 Magazine has assembled the largest, most authoritative collection of MG "MGB GT V8" information you'll find anywhere. Check it out!
Access our MGB GT V8 article index by clicking here.
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Spring 2009 - British V8

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