Appalachian Trail skills

SWEET SOLITUDE: PACK A TENT SO YOU’RE
NOT RESTRICTED TO THE AT’S SHELTERS.
THEN YOU CAN ALSO ENJOY SECLUDED
CAMPSITES LIKE THIS ONE IN MT. ROGERS
NATIONAL RECREATION AREA, VA.
American
Classic
PHOTO BY JEFF ZIMMERMAN; ALL MAP PHOTOS BY JEFF CHOW
It’s the stuff of dreams: The Appalachian Trail. In this ultimate guide to the country’s favorite footpath, you’ll find our picks for the best hiking and camping, and a complete plan for
thru-hikers. Plus, meet a man who has made it his job to help AT hikers. By Michael Lanza
More than 9,000 Number of reported complete thru-hikes since 1936 // More than 200 Number of people who have thru-hiked the AT two or more times
515,000 Elevation change on the AT, in feet (equals almost 100 vertical miles) // 165,000 number of blazes along the length of the 2,175-mile at
best of the appalachian trail: the map
Our map correspondent Jeff “BP”
Chow took 10 months to GPS
every mile of the AT. Check out his
favorite spots (noted on this map),
then see his entire trip, including
GPS beta, photo galleries, and a
Q&A, at backpacker.com/at.
GREAT SMOKY
MOUNTAINS NP
GEORGIA
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BACKPACKER 11.2008
10 mi
THE HARDEST SECTION
Springer Mountain to Neels Gap: The
testing grounds for greenhorn thruhikers. (Detailed map on page 59.)
NANTAHALA NF
BEST WEEK IN THE SOUTH
Hike 72 miles through the Smokies, from
Fontana Dam to Davenport Gap. Highlights:
curious black bears, panoramic views of
6,000-foot peaks, countless swimming
holes, and buckets of wild blackberries.
VIRGINIA
TENNESSEE
HIGHEST PEAK ON AT
Clingmans Dome (6,643 ft.)
CHATTAHOOCHEE NF
SOUTHERN TERMINUS
Springer Mountain (3,782 ft.)
SLOW GOING
Scramble roughly one mile
on an exposed ridge between
Fox Cabin and Bearwallow
Gaps. This is the most
technical section south of New
Hampshire’s White Mountains.
RARE SIGHT
Find red spruce trees, like ones in
the Maine woods, near the 5,180foot summit of Unaka Mountain.
SOOTHING SOAK
Layover in Hot Springs, NC, for
lodging at Sunnybank Inn, gear at
Bluff Mtn. Outfitters, dinner at Smoky
Mtn. Diner, and a soak in the mineral
waters of the Hot Springs Spa.
CHEROKEE NF
NORTH
CAROLINA
BEST WILDFLOWERS
In midsummer, cross
fields of knee-high
black-eyed susans
near Big Bald.
LUXE LODGE
Throw out your
schedule and stay
an extra night or two
at Mountaineer Falls
Shelter, a 3-story lodge built by
thru-hikers for thru-hikers.
FRIENDLIEST TOWN
The AT goes down Main Street in Damascus,
VA. The hiker-friendly town hosts Appalachian
Trail Days the weekend after Mother’s Day.
SWING SHIFT
Must-stop: the 20foot-high rope swing
into Watauga Lake
JEFFERSON NF
EXTENDED STAY
Grassy balds and wild horses in the
Grayson Highlands make this scenic
area a highlight. Linger an extra
day or two, bunk at Thomas Knob
Shelter, and tag Mt. Rogers, the
highest peak in Virginia.
CHEROKEE NF
PISGAH NF
BEST WATERFALL
Jump off rocks and
swim in the deep
pools below Laurel
Fork Falls.
JEFFERSON NF
best of the appalachian trail: the thru-hike
pocket-size Appalachian Trail Data Book ($6) lists distances
between key points like shelters, water sources, and town services;
The Thru-Hiker’s Companion ($14) is larger with more details about
trail facilities and towns. Get them both at appalachiantrail.org.
>>WEBSITES For gear checklists, skills primers, and destination
SOBO Southbounders start later (Baxter opens June 1) and usually
beta on all long trails, including the Appalachian, Pacific Crest, and
finish in November or even December. The downsides: You’ll
Continental Divide Trails, go to backpacker.com. // The Appalachian
endure thick black flies and challenging stream crossings in Maine
Trail Conservancy manages the AT and is a good source of AT(start after July 1 to avoid the worst); hike during hunting season
specific info (304-535-6331, appalachiantrail.org). // Find mileages
in the south; and walk into winter instead of out of it. Upsides,
between two points on the AT with this online calculator (ragtag.
according to successful SOBO Francis Tapon: get Maine and New
org/atdist.html). Also check thru-hiker centric whiteblaze.net.
Hampshire—the AT’s hardest section—over with first; enjoy more
>> PERMITS No permit is necessary for the AT, but some parks—
solitude; walk out of mosquito season instead of into it; pass
including Great
through Virginia during prime-time fall
Smoky Mountains
colors; and hike with no time pressure,
and Shenandoah—
since Springer Mountain doesn’t close
Purists might balk, but these alternative itineraries allow more
require free
for the winter.
flexibiity and optimum trail conditions. Section hiking: Tackle the
registration, shelter
trail in vacation-size stages over many years. Flip-flopping: Start at
fees, or reservations.
Transportation
Springer in spring and hike to Harpers Ferry, then flip to Katahdin
Get details at
Getting there and away Private shuttles
backpacker.com/at.
and hike south (or do the northern half first). Leapfrogging:
serve both Springer and Katahdin. Get
a list of options at appalachiantrail
Divide the trail into thirds, hiking first the southernmost, then
.org/site/c.jkLXJ8MQKtH/b.806835/.
northernmost, then middle. Head-starting: Begin at Damascus in
On the trail For re-supply rides to town,
April, hike north. then return in fall and hike to Springer Mountain.
hitchhiking is generally safe and easy,
as locals are accustomed to picking up
hikers. Or ask about shuttles or “trail angels” (people
who help AT hikers) at hostels and shelters.
plan
it
Dreaming of a thru-hike? Prepare for success by
England; and a crowd of fellow northbounders, which can be good
or bad, depending on your perspective. Also, slow hikers risk missing
the big finale on Katahdin: Baxter State Park closes October 15.
learning the obstacles—and how to beat them.
Keep It Simple
Don’t let the length of the AT confuse things: It’s a hike, not an
Everest expedition. Get started on the right path by dispensing with
three common AT myths:
1)Planning: Ignore those who recommend an organizational
jumpstart six or eight months in advance. Calculating where you’ll
camp every night is an exercise in futility, and spending thousands
of dollars shipping re-supply boxes across 14 states from Maine to
Georgia is a waste of time and money (see “Hike Smart,” page 54).
3) Mileage: It’s not important to stay “on pace” for the first month. In
fact, the opposite is true. Nothing kills a thru-hike faster than going
too far, too soon (see page 54 for how to master the first 40 days).
Hiker to Hiker
What it takes: Essential qualities for a successful thru-hiker
include “a sturdy physique, exceptional determination, and
ingenious adaptability.” —Earl Shaffer, a World War II veteran
who became the world’s first thru-hiker when he walked the
AT end-to-end in 1948. He used road maps to navigate.
What to Expect
Unlike other long trails, the 2,175-mile AT is a true mountain path
for virtually its entire distance. That makes it both more satisfying—
and more difficult—than many hikers expect. Here’s what you’ll
encounter on the AT’s four major sections on a northbound hike.
Southern Appalachians 456 miles, about 40 days
There’s no break at the beginning: Georgia’s 75 miles are second only
to New Hampshire in terms of vertical gain, and North Carolina’s
Nantahala and Stekoah Mountains get mighty steep. Plan on hiking
fewer than 10 miles per day as your legs adjust. Expect to cover up to
15 miles in the Smokies, and even more through Tennessee’s balds.
Break the Rules
Virginia and West Virginia 554 miles, about 40 days
This is where you’ll hit your stride. The path here is relatively easy,
with modest elevation changes and good tread. Plus, you’ll have
your trail legs under you after the first month; many thru-hikers
crank out 20-mile days here. Stores are frequently accessible (often
every couple of days), so you can keep your load light and really fly.
Mid-Atlantic states 430 miles, about 32 days
Smaller hills here allow 15 to 20 miles a day—except in the most
rocky parts of Pennsylvania, where your mileage may be sliced in
half. Don’t kill yourself on the rocks—there’s still a lot of trail ahead.
New England 734 miles, about 57 days
Fallen behind? Make up ground on the first part of the home
stretch—through Connecticut, Massachusetts, and southern
Vermont—which is easy compared to what comes after. In the
White Mountains, the AT gets rockier and steeper; even strong
hikers might cover only 10 miles a day. In Maine, you can expect
fickle autumn weather. If you’re in shape and on schedule for the
final kick to Katahdin, take rest days during the worst storms.
Northbound vs. Southbound
The only significant navigation decision you’ll make on the whole
AT is whether to walk northbound (NOBO in thru-hiker slang) or
southbound (SOBO). Here’s what to consider:
NOBO The chief reason to hike northward is simply tradition: It’s
the direction of travel chosen by some 90 percent of thru-hikers.
NOBOs start between mid-March and mid-April and finish in
the fall. This itinerary means wintry weather for the first several
weeks or more; heat and bugs from the mid-Atlantic states to New
Choosing a partner
PHOTOS BY HOWIE GARBER / ANIMALS ANIMALS (LEFT); KEVIN ADAMS
2) Gear: There’s no magic product. Sure, you should carry less than
30 pounds total with food and water (check page 53 for help), but
remember: Even a one-pound pack can’t walk for you.
FINISH LINE: A MOOSE STANDS
WATCH IN BAXTER STATE
PARK, WITH MT. KATAHDIN IN
THE BACKGROUND.
>> It’s not critical to find a partner pre-trip. Hiking
NOBO on the AT, you’ll meet people compatible with
your pace and temperament. Women: Many female
hikers safely go solo on the AT each year, but start
with a companion if that’s more comfortable.
>> Agree on what to do if your partnership fails.
>> Be flexible; you don’t have to walk together
every day or stay together every night.
>> Friends from home may want to join you for a few
days. Just remember that once you have your trail legs
if might be tough to slow your pace.
Resources
>> MAPS BACKPACKER map correspondent Jeff Chow
section-hiked the AT in 2007 and 2006, and collected
six thousand waypoints. See highlights from his
trip on the map below, and download or print our
exclusive AT tracklog at backpacker.com/at.
>> BOOKS The Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s
81 Age of Lee “Easy One” Barry when he became the oldest AT thru-hiker in 2004 // 6 Age of the youngest at thru-hiker
HEAVENLY VIEW
Davis Farm campsite has
room for one tent and views
of God’s Thumbprint, a
roughly 10-mile-wide crater.
JEFFERSON NF
PIZZA DELIVERY
The Pizza Hut in Marion, VA, delivers to
Partnership Shelter. (276) 783-2777
SWEET CAMPSITE
Pitch a tent near Kelly Knob, where a rock
column offers amazing sunsets and nighttime views of the town of Pembroke. JEFFERSON NF
SWIMMING HOLE
Cool off in the pool below the
Falls of Dismal and take the
thru-hiker challenge: Fish for
crawdads—barehanded.
NORTH
CAROLINA
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BACKPACKER 09.2008
6: Months a typical thru-hike takes // $3,000-$5,000: Amount a typical AT thru-hike costs for everything excluding basic gear
WEST
VIRGINIA
WEST
VIRGINIA
BEST REFILL
Sarver Hollow Shelter has dependable (and
delicious) mountain spring water.
KILLER VISTA Stop at McAfee Knob for the best
lunch spot and see-forever views in
southern Virginia. JEFFERSON NF
BEST AL FRESCO DINING
Bryant Ridge Shelter, with
its timber construction
and covered picnic table.
PERFECT WEEKEND
Go 26.5 miles from the flats of Sinking Creek to the knifelike
ridges of Cove Mountain. Plus: See a 300-year-old Keffer Oak
and climb Dragons Tooth, a 10-foot-tall rock formation.
THE GUILLOTINE
Hike under a precariously perched boulder
hanging between two house-size rocks (a
quarter-mile from Forest Road 812).
HIT PAUSE: A THRU-HIKE
IS NOT A RACE; STOP AND
ENJOY SUNSETS LIKE THIS
ONE IN THE GREAT SMOKY
MOUNTAINS.
WEEKEND FEAST
Reeds Gap to Montebello:
Go southbound on this
20-mile trip through The
Priest and Three Ridges
Wilderness Areas. Pass
Spy Rock, a scenic bald.
Finish at the Dutch Haus
B&B in Montebello, 2.2
miles off the AT, where
hosts cater to hikers with
home-cooked meals.
GEORGE
WASHINGTON NF
TOP DAYHIKE
Fishers Gap to Stony Man Overlook: This
8.5-mile hike passes vertical cliffs, weaves
through spruce and fir stands, and traverses
the northern slopes of Hawksbill Mountain,
the highest peak in Shenandoah.
VIRGINIA
HARPERS
FERRY NP
BARE CROSSING Tip for the modest: Avoid
sections that cross Blue
Ridge Parkway during the
unofficial Hike Naked Day
on summer solstice.
BLUE RIDGE
PARKWAY
BEST CONCERT VENUE
Acoustics sound superb in the geodesic-shaped
Dick’s Dome shelter. No musicians in your party?
The nearby stream fills in.
JEFFERSON NF
BLUE RIDGE
PARKWAY
HISTORIC MILESTONE
Harpers Ferry is the AT’s
psychological midpoint,
as well as the site
of Appalachian Trail
Conference HQ. Take
a train from town and
spend a day visiting D.C.
harpersferrywv.net.
SHENANDOAH NP
09.2008 BACKPACKER
11.2008 BACKPACKER
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get
fit
Start in shape, and you’re more likely to enjoy—and
carry
less
Turn ultralight into ultra-comfortable.
finish—your thru-hike.
The Weight Game
The Program
Strength
Two to three times per week, do muscle-building exercises that
incorporate your core. Examples:
1) Pushups: Perform them while resting your legs on an exercise ball.
2) Lunges: While holding a weight or medicine ball, twist your torso to
the side of the forward leg, then return to starting position and repeat.
3) Step-ups: Hold 10-pound dumbbells and pump both arms up
and forward with each step.
4) Bicycle crunches: These are great for building core strength. Do
them slowly, with good form (back flat, navel in, neck straight).
5) Supermans: Lie on your stomach on an exercise ball; lift and
extend opposing arms and legs, pause, then switch and repeat.
Prepare your feet
1) Strengthen ankles by using a balance board at least twice a week.
2) Condition soles by wearing lightweight shoes on long dayhikes.
3) Apply tincture of benzoin or soak feet in strong, brewed tea. Both
toughen skin. Treat daily, starting three to four weeks before your hike.
Trail Fitness
Do regular aerobic workouts like running or cycling, but remember
that nothing prepares you to hike all day like ... hiking all day. Once a
week, get in a five-plus-hour hike with a pack load equal to your AT
weight. Go on at least one 30-mile shakedown backpacking trip.
Hiker to Hiker
Fuel up: “Have an electrolyte drink daily, regardless of weather.
Several are available at grocery stores: Replenish, Crystal Light
to Go [some varieties], and Gatorade, among others.”—Tom
“Evil Eye” Tanner, Lawrence, KN, thru-hiked the AT in 2007.
Zealous gram-counters achieve pack weights that are startlingly low.
Don’t join them in a race to the bottom. Winton Porter, who may be
responsible for outfitting more successful thru-hikers than anyone
else on the planet (see page 58), says the ideal weight for a fully
loaded pack, including food and water, is 25 pounds in the summer,
and up to 35 pounds during shoulder seasons. These loads encourage
a good balance between on-trail and in-camp comfort.
TRAIL DIET: THRU-HIKERS
SHOULD REFUEL WITH CALORIEDENSE FOODS HIGH IN FAT. HERE,
PAT SMITH CHOWS AT COSBY
KNOB SHELTER IN THE SMOKIES.
Key strategies for cutting pack weight
>> Downsize: If you’re carrying more than you need of anything—
excess fuel or sunscreen—you’re carrying dead weight.
>> Eliminate: Trowel, chair kit, pillow, an extra mug or bowl, War and
Peace—are they really necessary?
eat
right
Don’t run out of steam: Thru-hikers burn 3,500
(women) to 5,000 calories (men) a day.
Stay energized with this fueling plan:
>> Your diet should be slightly higher in fat than normal—about 50 percent
carbohydrates, 35 percent fat, and 15 percent protein, according
to hiker/nutritionist Brenda Braaten. A study of AT thru-hiker diets
found a similarly ideal ratio (49/37/14) after 500 miles on the trail.
The reason: Energy-dense fat is more efficient to carry, and a steady
supply helps preserve muscle glycogen stores.
>> Don’t pack foods you think you should eat. Pack foods you like.
>> You’ll be tired, so keep meals simple. Stick with easy-prep foods that
require no or little cooking (boiled water only).
>> In towns, treat yourself to cravings like fries and milkshakes—it’s a nice
reward, and it’s smart to make up the calorie deficit thru-hikers
generally run (about 1,700 calories per day for women, 2,000 per
day for men, according to one study).
>> Don’t skimp on salt. You need it and potassium to prevent cramps.
>> If you’re losing too much weight and depleting your body’s fat
reserves and muscle mass—leading to long-term exhaustion—slow
your pace and increase your calories. On average, successful thruhikers lose only about five pounds over the course of the trek.
>> Weigh your food: Carry 1.5 to 2 pounds of food per day, or about
3,500 to 4,000 calories.
>> Minimize weight with energy-dense foods, like nuts roasted in oil
(170 calories/oz.), raw almonds (162), peanut butter and squeeze
margarine (160), chocolate and cookies (140), and trail mix (130).
AT Essentials
Footwear
>> Wear lightweight shoes; add after-market insoles for improved
support. Replace worn-out shoes every 500 miles or so.
>> Don’t buy replacements in advance. Your shoe size will increase
during the trek, and you may want to switch models entirely.
>> Top picks: Vasque Velocity VST GTX ($120, vasque.com); Montrail
Continental Divide GTX ($120, montrail.com)
PHOTOS BY ALEXANDRA C. DALEY-CLARK / AURORA PHOTOS (LEFT); HARRISON SHULL / AURORA PHOTOS
Don’t let anyone tell you to “just hike yourself into shape.” While it’s
true that you’ll inevitably gain trail fitness, that only applies if you
don’t quit. A recent study of AT thru-hikers confirmed that people
who start with a better fitness level (measured by VO2 max), lower
body-fat percentage, and lower weight overall are more likely to be
successful. So increase your odds of finishing, decrease your risk of
injury, and enjoy that first month much more by starting this training
plan three months before your hike.
RIVER REWARD
From Weaverton Cliffs,
see the sinuous blue line
of the Potomac River.
MARYLAND
52
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BACKPACKER
BACKPACKER 11.2008
00.2005
DC
BEGINNER WEEK
Delaware Water
Gap to High Point:
With easy terrain
(little climbing) and
scenic red and orange autumn
foliage, this 43-mile section is
great for AT novices.
DAYHIKE
Lehigh Gap: Climb
1,000 feet, sometimes
hand-over-foot, to a
treeless ridgeline, one
of the few in PA.
PINK BLAZE
The only one spotted
on the AT. Pink blaze
is trail slang for guys
courting female hikers. HIKER’S BEST FRIEND:
HARRISON SHULL WITH
HIS DOG MORGAN, ATOP
MAX PATCH BALD IN NORTH
CAROLINA
25 percentage of thru-hikers who typically finish // 28: number of 2008 northbound thru-hikers who had already made it to katahdin by september 1 this year
PENNSYLVANIA
photo credit goes here
CHESAPEAKE &
OHIO CANAL NHP
Carry hand sanitizer and use it before eating and after going to
the bathroom. Always. Most hiker illnesses are spread by hand.
Pack extra insect repellent (at least 30 percent DEET) for the gnats,
skeeters, and black flies that plague the AT May to August.
Bring ear plugs for noisy shelters, a groundsheet for dirty ones.
Keep a small notebook and pen accessible so you can jot down
contact info or tips when you meet people on the trail.
Skip the town clothes; they’re not worth the weight.
Stock your first-aid kit with immodium, ibuprofen, and cold
medicine; you won’t be near a pharmacy when you need them.
Sleeping bag
>> Don’t try to hike the whole AT with one bag: It’ll either be too
heavy in the summer or not warm enough in the shoulder seasons.
>> Top picks: GoLite Adrenaline 20 for spring and fall ($325; 1 lb. 13
oz.; golite.com); Mountain Hardwear UltraLamina 45 for summer
($170; 1 lb. 8 oz.; mountainhardwear.com)
5-STAR SHELTER
501 offers amenities other shelters
lack: four walls, dome skylight,
bunkbeds, and a solar shower. PIG OUT
The Doyle Hotel
in Duncannon has
“the best pulled
pork sandwich
anywhere,” says
Jeff. He ate four.
6 thru-hiker packing secrets
Tent
>> Don’t forgo a tent, but make it minimalist. Many thru-hikers
prefer their own wilderness refuge to crowded or loud shelters.
>> Top picks: solo hikers: Montbell Crescent 1 ($229; 2 lbs. 1 oz.;
montbell.com); two-person: Big Agnes Seedhouse SL 2 ($320;
2 lbs. 14 oz.; bigagnes.com)
photo credit goes here
HARPERS
FERRY NP
Stove
>> Alcohol stoves are popular on the AT, since they’re ultralight,
require zero maintenance, and fuel is easily found at hostels, as well
as hardware stores and gas stations.
>> Canister stoves are also a good choice, as they burn hotter,
are only negligibly heavier, and canister fuel is widely available at
hostels and regularly spaced outfitters.
>> Top picks: Alcohol: Trangia Westwind ($25, 7 oz.; campsaver.
com); canister: MSR PocketRocket ($40; 3 oz.; msrgear.com)
Backpack
>> Your pack (empty) should weigh less than four pounds.
>> Capacity should be about 3,000-4,000 cubic inches.
>> Top picks: Granite Gear Meridian Vapor ($195; 2 lbs. 14 oz.;
granitegear.com); Gregory Z55 ($199; 3 lbs. 5 oz.; gregorypacks.com)
1 Number of thru-hikes completed in 1948 // 633 Record number of thru-hikers who finished the trail in 2000
HALFWAY!
Cheer for the wooden shrine in the middle
of the PA woods. 1,069 miles to go.
Sleeping pad
>> First, decide what you need to sleep well, then get the lightest
version. No sense saving a pound if you’re sleepless at night,
exhausted all day.
>>Top picks: Therm-a-Rest Z Lite ($35; 15 oz.; thermarest.com); Big
Agnes Insulated Air Core ($65; 1 lb. 6 oz.; bigagnes.com)
DELAWARE
WATER GAP
NRA
NEW JERSEY SAFARI
The one-mile-long Ponchuck Creek
boardwalk passes through a wetland
rich in wildlife like mink and deer.
NEW
JERSEY
DIET CHECK
After 1,372
northbound miles,
you’ll have no
problem with the
Lemon Squeezer,
a rocky pinch in
Harriman State Park.
NEW YORK
LOWEST POINT
The AT’s bottom:
Bear Mountain Zoo
PEAK WEEKEND
CT 41 to Jug End
Road: This 15.9-mile
trek travels through
two states, crests
the tallest peak in
Connecticut, and
links four summits in
Massachusetts.
NY WEEKENDER
Ride the train from New
York City to the AT Railroad
Station. Hike south on a 6mile out-and-back past the
largest oak on the AT (over
300 years old) to a classic
shelter. Ambitious hikers: Add
6.5 miles to the next shelter.
HIGH MA!
Tourists drive up Mt. Greylock,
Massachusetts’ high point.
Hikers take the AT (it’s 10.8
miles from Cheshire). Payoff:
Ice cream, hot dogs, and
bragging rights. GREEN
MOUNTAIN NF
BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS
The caretaker at Upper
Goose Pond Cabin makes
fresh blueberry pancakes.
Memorial Day to Labor Day.
CONNECTICUT
MASSACHUSETTS
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hike
smart
Here’s how to master the big—and little—details of life
on the Appalachian Trail.
SPRING IN YOUR STEP: CROSS
TENNESSEE’S ROAN MOUNTAIN IN
JUNE TO CATCH RHODODENDRON
SEASON.
Supplies
Compared to the Pacific Crest and Continental Divide Trails, the
AT offers easy access to towns and stores along the way. So skip
the complicated (and expensive) mail drops. Shopping as you go
allows more flexibility (eat what you crave instead of whatever
you boxed up months before) and lets you adjust amounts more
precisely as you learn real-world needs. In fact, there’s just one
mail drop we suggest using: the post office at Fontana Village,
North Carolina, where laundry and lodging are available. The
village caters to thru-hikers, and the alternatives for re-supply are
inconvenient. Some hikers also recommend a mail drop at Kincora
Hostel, in Dennis Cove, Tennessee; alternatively, Kincora’s owner
will drive you to the grocery store.
Pace
NOBO thru-hikers who begin in mid-April must average 12 to 13
miles per day of hiking (while taking a rest day every week) to
reach Katahdin before Baxter State Park closes on October 15. But
remember, that’s an everage. In some sections you should aim for
more miles, in others less. Here’s a guide.
Start at a comfortable pace This is an ultramarathon, not a sprint;
hikers who blast out of the gate often suffer overuse injuries like
knee, foot, or iliotibial (IT) band problems, exhaustion, and mental
burnout that can end a trip prematurely. But you need to steadily
increase your daily mileage to build fitness and prepare your body
to crank out the big days when you need them.
Bounce Box
The first 40 days Hit the trail at Springer in reasonable shape and plan
to hike no more than 10 miles per day for the first two weeks. Start
ramping up to 12 miles per day in week three. Set a goal of ticking
off some 15-mile days by the end of your first month and reaching
Damascus, Virginia, within about 40 days. By then, you’ll have your
trail legs and be on pace for reaching Katahdin in September.
This box is repeatedly shipped ahead; it typically contains
extra batteries and other items purchased in bulk, as
well as extra gear or clothing. Stock the box with packing
tape, labels, and markers. And always keep a list of
any mail drops sent (where they are and what they
contain). For mail-drop locations, check The Thru-Hiker’s
Handbook ($23, trailplace.com) or whiteblaze.net.
Motivation
Navigation
Forget the map and compass. The AT is so well marked and obvious
for its entire length, you won’t need them. In fact, if your footpath
ever grows faint or overgrown, you’ve taken a wrong turn; double
back. The only conditions where navigating can be difficult are after
a fresh snowfall or above treeline in heavy fog. It’s better to wait out
bad weather than to risk getting far off track.
1) Make friends. There’s always strength in numbers, and the
camaraderie inspires a shared sense of mission.
2) Plug in. Pack an iPod with motivational music or books. This also
combats the boredom you’ll inevitably encounter from time to time.
3) Laugh. “Without a good sense of humor, you don’t have a prayer,”
says eight-time AT thru-hiker “Baltimore Jack” Tarlin.
4) Take a break. Feeling totally burned out? Treat yourself to
something special—a nice hotel and a steak dinner, a visit with
family or friends. Alternatively, spend a few days camping without
hiking. A tranquil wilderness interlude can help focus your mind on
why you’re out there in the first place.
5) Don’t look 2,000 miles ahead. That can be discouraging, says 2001
thru-hiker Jason “The Goat” Knight. Instead, he advises, “Divide the
trail into smaller goals, like where you’ll to hike to that day or week.”
Shelters
There are more than 250 backcountry shelters along the AT, but
veteran thru-hikers recommend tenting over bunking in a crowded or
loud shelter. However, even if you’re not spending the night, they’re
useful places to stop for trail beta and hiker news (read the shelter’s
log), mooch food from short-term hikers (who are often happy to
unload extra weight), and minimize impact by using the outhouse.
Find a list of AT shelters at cs.utk.edu/~dunigan/at/.
PHOTO BY SCOTT LESSING HUBENER / DRR.NET
Your biggest challenge on a thru-hike is not fatigue or weather or
injury. It’s a mental letdown. Here are 5 ways to stay motivated
when doubt invades:
47 days, 13 hours, 31 minutes Unofficial fastest AT thru-hike, by Andrew “trail dog” Thompson in 2005
NEW
YORK
GREEN
MOUNTAIN NF
DOUBLE UP The AT and Long Trail (America’s
oldest long-distance path) share
converge for the hike up this
4,235-foot Killington Peak.
GROUND ZERO
In 1919, Benton MacKaye
conceived the idea for the AT on
3,940-foot Stratton Mountain.
It’s a 3.8-mile hike to the summit
from Wardsboro Road.
BEST WEEKEND
Start at the Flume Visitor
Center in Franconia Notch
for a 27.7-mile section linking
three ridges, postcard views,
and mountain huts on the
longest stretch of roadless
wilderness in New Hampshire.
QUIET COUSIN
Scramble up beautiful Mt.
Madison (5,363 feet) and
watch the chaos—tourists
and the cog railway on—Mt.
Washington from afar.
WHITE MOUNTAIN NF
VERMONT
GREEN
MOUNTAIN NF
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AESTHETIC SOAK
Soak in the cool pools of
Clarendon Gorge, where the
waters have carved smooth
limestone sculptures.
WEEK OF SOLITUDE
From Hanover to Kinsman Notch, go
from rolling hills to high mountains on
this secluded 53-mile section linking
waterfalls, well-maintained shelters,
and summits with fire towers.
NEW HAMPSHIRE
KILLER SUNSET Enjoy the glow
over Ethan Pond,
north of Zealand
Falls Hut.
photo credit goes here
Rock Art
Enter the stone gardens
on White Rocks Mtn. and
see the elaborate cairn
stacks made by hikers.
HOME STRETCH: HEADING
NORTH TOWARD BALDPATE
WEST, NEAR MAINE’S GRAFTON
Hiker to Hiker
On the trail, as in life, good manners go far. Here’s how to behave:
1. Don’t lecture: Give advice only to those who request it of you.
2. Be considerate: If you snore, travel with a dog, play music loudly,
talk on the phone, go to bed really early, wake up really early, smoke,
sleep naked, or dislike being around others, consider tenting rather
than sleeping at shelters—you’ll be the king of your own castle and
you won’t see nasty things written about you in shelter logs.
3. Share: Never spread out in a shelter to prevent others from using
it, and never consume the entire contents of a Trail Angel’s cooler
by yourself. And remember: There’s always room for one more in a
shelter during a storm.
4. Protect the water: Drink upstream, do everything else downstream.
Don’t foul the water for your fellow hikers by walking, bathing, or
dishwashing at the source of a spring or a stream crossing.
5. Pack it out: You’re not being altruistic by leaving extra food at a
shelter for “someone else.” It just invites scavenging animals. Many
trail town businesses have “hiker boxes” for this type of sharing.
6. Be grateful: Hitches, Hostels, Angels, and Trail Maintenance are just
some of the supports built into the AT that rely on the generosity of
others. You already smell bad—don’t make it worse.
8. Respect privacy: It’s very hard to lose someone while walking 3 mph
on a one-foot-wide trail. Don’t assume that anyone wants to merge
itineraries for the next six months, and if you pick up an unwanted
tag-along don’t spend your hike ducking behind logs—just be honest.
9. Don’t complain: Of course it sucks that your boot soles fell off
halfway through Pennsylvannia. Look at the bright side: You’re not
at work!
—Peter “Wicked Lobstah” Rives, thru-hiked the AT in 2004
Trail name
Yes, you’ll get one. But tradition dictates that you wait until one is
bestowed. Don’t show up calling yourself Walks Like Wind. And while
the AT is a famously social trail—you’ll make lifelong friends, maybe
even find a spouse—don’t get distracted by shelter parties at the
outset. You’ll have time enough to celebrate after you’ve earned it.
Avoid injury and illness
>> According to a study in The Journal of Sports Medicine, trekking
poles reduce compressive force on the knees by up to 25 percent.
They also prevent falls and provide balance for stream crossings.
>> Wash hands and utensils religiously, and always treat water
(use lightweight and foolproof chlorine dioxide drops, like McNett’s
Aquamira drops, or a chemical-free ultralight filter, like MSR’s
hyperflow). According to a study in the American Journal of Medicine,
gastrointestinal illness is the number one cause of thru-hiker attrition.
>> Treat open wounds appropriately and immediately, by washing
thoroughly and applying antibiotic ointment and a bandage.
>> Let your feet air-dry at rest breaks to prevent blisters.
>> Take rest days (“zero days” in AT parlance), generally one each
week, to avoid over-use injuries, exhaustion, and mental burnout.
PHOTO BY TIM SEAVER
AT Etiquette
Hit the trail at dawn. “In the summer, start hiking at first light
to avoid the worst heat; getting in 10 miles before lunch can
provide for an easy 20-mile day. After dinner, walk another
two or three miles before camping. This provides great
opportunities for solitude and to view wildlife.”—Jeff “Little
Bear” Hunter, Chattanooga, TN, thru-hiked the AT in 2000.
492 Number of 2,000-mile AT badges awarded last year. Get yours at appalachian.trail.org.
MEAL PLAN
Stop at the gas station in Andover
for stacks of foot-wide pancakes
and The Cabin in Maine Hostel for
family-style breakfast and dinner.
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TECHNICAL TENTING
Camp at the north end
of Mahossuc Notch, an
obstacle course where
hikers scramble up,
over, even under giant
boulders.
THE FERRYMAN For more than 20 years, Steve
Longley has paddled hikers in his
red canoe across the Kennebec
River. Pack cash for a tip.
FINISH!
From the Katahdin Stream
campground, climb 4.9 miles
and 5,000 feet to the top of
Katahdin’s three-peak massif,
the highest summit in Maine.
LIVE MUSIC Musicians, including a washtub bassist,
play bluegrass at the general store
in Monson on Friday nights. Playlist
includes a sweet local rendition of
Johnny Cash’s I’ve Been Everywhere.
photo credit goes here
BEST WEEKEND Pinkham Notch to US 2: Hike this
21.1-mile leg through deep-cut
notches and across boradwalks
in the boggy and beautiful north
woods. Bonus: Stay in Carter Notch
Hut, the oldest AMC hut.
COOLEST NAME
Mooselookmeguntic
Lake.
MAINE
BEST WEEK MONSON to ME 27: Often overlooked
by hikers focused on the 100-Mile
Wilderness, this 73-mile segment crosses
old-growth stands, fish-filled ponds, and
the camel humps of the Bigelow Range.
0
5
10 mi