Module 1 - Creedons College

Module 5
Module 3 – Dog coat types, skin
problems, and brushing patterns
©Creedons College 2016
Module 5
Welcome!
When working with different breeds and dogs you will quickly notice that they have
different coat types.
These different coats need different care and treatment so it is important that you are
able to recognise these different coat types and are able to work with them appropriately.
We are also going to look as issues relating to the coat and skin, such as health problems
and parasites.
It is important to have a basic understanding of these conditions so that when you find
anything of concern on a dog you are working on you can let the dog owner know what
your concerns are and give an educated opinion of what you believe the issue is.
This will help you come across as a trustworthy, knowledgeable professional.
Creedons College offers a short course on Recognising Medical Abnormalities and
Providing First Aid Care course which we strongly recommend for those of you who do
continue to work professionally with animals.
This module will also explore different brushing styles, though of course our Professional
Dog Grooming Stylist advanced certificate will go into this in a much more detailed,
practical fashion.
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Module 5
Coat Types
Canine Coats
Dogs born with hair, not fur! It is important to get yourself out of the habit of calling dog
hair fur. The coat the dog is born with is known as the puppy coat and is often lighter
than adult coat, though not always, especially for grey dogs.
Around the time of sexual maturity, the coat will become coarser, longer, and sometimes
darker.
Breeds and individuals have different rate of coat development and growth. Factors such
as day length, hormones, average outdoor temperature, and nutrition may influence coat
development as well.
Puppy coats can be clipped at a young age should the owner request so
This is an ideal opportunity to introduce the pup to grooming equipment in an enjoyable
manner
Most dogs will have a double coat, a soft fluffy undercoat (secondary hair) and a coarser,
waterproof primary hair (guard hairs, outer hairs, outer coat)
Puppies usually only have secondary hairs until older
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Module 5
Special hair
Certain sensitive hairs on the dog’s body have deeper follicles, with an increased nerve
and blood supply. These are the:
Cilia (eyelashes)
Tragus (tragi – plural) (hairs on the external ear)
Vibrissae (muzzle whiskers)
These hairs provide the dog with sensory information and for that reason are extra
sensitive and often feel discomfort when being cut.
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Module 5
Coat Types
There are a few terms in relation to coat type that you need to know. Familiarise
yourself with the below as you will be expected to know them if you are taking our
professional course.
Double Coat
Most of the dogs have double coat – a top coat and an undercoat.
The top layer consists of the firmer guard hairs which are water repellent. These top
coats protect their skin and the undercoat, a fleecy kind of a fur, acts as a natural guard
against various attributes.
The undercoat is slightly shorter than the top coat and it serves as an insulating medium
to keep its body warm during winters or adverse climate. Such dogs normally shed their
undercoat twice in a year, which is seasonal.
When looking to see if a dog has a double coat, part the hair and you should notice a
difference in the coat textures.
Most dogs have double coats, and it is easy to see on breeds such as Husky's,
Pomeranian's, German Shepherds.
Often you will get requested to clip a double coated dog's hair short to cool them down
but this is not the case, as a double coat, when brushed regularly, will keep the rays from
the sun from making contact with the dog’s skin, and will also trap cool air beneath the
guard hairs keeping the dog cooler.
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Module 5
For short-haired double-coated dogs, use the brush to comb out the undercoat, brushing
outward from the skin. Use the same brush to go over the topcoat, brushing with the lay
of the coat.
For long-haired double-coated dogs, take sections of the dog’s hair and separate it with
your hand before brushing with the slicker brush. Brush outward from the skin to help
remove loose hairs in the thick undercoat.
Double or Single?
Dogs will either have a double coat or a single coat. If you are unsure as to whether a dog
you are dealing with has a double or single coat, simply part the hairs to see if there are
two different types of hair at the route. If it is double you will see one type of soft, fluffy
hair and another, harsher type of hair similar to what you see externally.
Double coat
Most dogs have a top coat is composed of stiff guard hairs, which tend to be naturally
water-repellent. The top coat protects the dog’s skin and his undercoat, which is a fleecy
or downy type of fur a bit shorter than the top coat. The undercoat serves as insulation
to keep the dog warm during cold or inhospitable weather. The dog sheds (or blows out)
the undercoat twice a year — it’s a seasonal thing.
Long Single Coat
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Module 5
A few dogs have a single coat, where there is only a top coat with no undercoat. Such
dogs shed less than the double coated breeds.
When you part the hair on these dogs you will see no change between the hair types.
An example of a single coated dog would be a Yorkshire Terrier.
Smooth coat
These are short coated dogs that have hairs that lay back against the skin. They have no
secondary hairs so are a single coat type of dog. Although they do shed, grooming them is
not a hassle. The dog often appears sleek and shiny, almost as though you are looking at
skin and not hair.
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Module 5
Bulldogs and Dalmatians have smooth coats. A Labrador would not be a smooth coated
dog, they usually have more of a shine and less thickness of coat. Another example of a
smooth coated dog would be a Boxer.
The skin is soft, and it is often sensitive to harsh products, tools and/or equipment so be
very gentle when grooming a smooth coated dog.
Long periods in cold or extreme weather without coats or jackets are not appropriate for
smaller breeds with this coat, and these dogs are more prone to insect bites than those
with other coats.
Brushing Style
A rubber grooming glove or rubber brush will give a great shine, and a bristle brush will
remove any dead hair. With a smooth coat always brush with the direction of the hair.
Begin brushing at the head and move toward the tail in one smooth movement. Avoid too
much pressure as this thin coat means you are very close to the skin. Practice on your
own skin before applying to the dog.
Take great care on belly and inner legs as often the hair can be particularly thin here.
Stimulating the coat and skin will be great for blood flow so do not neglect grooming.
Short Double Coat
Most dogs with coats that don't need regular maintenance fall under the short or smooth
category. The short have a double coat. When you part the hair you can see a harder
extremity layer and a softer undercoat.
Examples include the Labrador.
Brushing this Coat
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Module 5
When brushing a short double coat, you will focus on removing a lot of dead hair. Tools,
such as a shedding blade, a furminator and an undercoat rake can be used. A rubber
grooming glove to finish can leave an attractive shine on the coat.
Long Double Coat
A long haired double coated dog would include a golden retriever, a Newfoundland, or a
rough collie. This coat type needs thorough drying as the outer guard hairs often prevent
the inner hairs from drying.
Brushing this Coat
Use a soft slicker brush for a silky coat or a firm slicker brush for a coarse coat. You can
also use a pin brush on this coat. An under coat rake will help to remove dead hair.
Brush in the direction that the hair grows. Use a dematting comb on any matts that you
find.
Part the hair into sections when brushing and dematting and work on one section at a
time.
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Module 5
Wire coats
These are the type of coats that are wiry or broken on top and have soft undercoat on the
inside, although they can be single coated also. These are normally wavy looking but on
petting the hair looks a bit coarse. The Irish Terrier is one of the examples. As these
types of coats need clipping or stripping, they add an extra element in the grooming
sessions.
Brushing this Coat
Hand stripping is a progressive skill and process which is often carried out on wire haired dogs. It
requires a stripping comb and a stripping knife. To brush a wire coat, use a firm slicker brush, and
brush in sections, with the hair, working in small sections at a time to ensure dead hair is removed
from each section one at a time.
As wire coats are often quite dull, a rubber grooming glove used on the coat after the dead hair has
been removed can increase the shine on the coat.
Curly Coats / Wavy Coat
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These are fewer in number and need extreme maintenance that includes brushing and
clipping. The hair grows in curls and is usually a non-shed coat. For this reason, curly
coats need regular grooming to remove the old coat.
Curly coated dogs will need to be brushed through daily or else their coats will become
very matted. Matting and knots occur very quickly once the dog goes through sexual
maturity and gets its adult coat. Allowing the coat to get wet and dry will often cause
extra quick matting.
An example would include the Bichon Frise
.
Brushing this Coat
Use a soft slicker brush to begin removing smaller loose tangling before it becomes a
matt. Start at the head and part the coat into smaller sections. Brush one section at a
time. A coat can be used to locate tangles. Know Breaker or Dematting comb can be used
on individual matts if they are tight and do not break with the slicker. Once you break
the matt into smaller pieces use a coarse comb to further break the matt, then a thin
comb, and then back to the soft slicker. Use detangle spray when working on matts.
Brush the hair outward away from the skin. When drying this dog continue to brush
with a soft slicker away from the body while drying.
Corded coats
You will not find too many curly coated dogs in Ireland.
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Module 5
They are dogs that have coats twisted with dreadlocks belong to this category, like the
Puli, the Komondor and sometimes even the Poodles. These types of coat need good
amount of work to prevent tangling of hairs as once they get twisted; it is difficult to
maintain them in good shape.
Much care is required for corded coats to be properly nurtured and maintained.
Frequent bathing is not advisable since shampoo does not completely rinse out, and the
coat is very difficult to dry thoroughly.
Avoiding fleas and skin problems is imperative.
Brushing this Coat
Often with corded coats the dog’s owner will be maintaining this coat to keep the style so
you should follow their instructions. However, many breeds that have corded coats are
kept in a standard coat style, which means, if relatively short, treat this coat as a normal
curly coat.
Hairless Coat
Chinese Crested and The American Hairless terrier are hairless dogs. Their skin must
be maintained; just as other dogs' coats are groomed.
Brushing this Coat
Of course, where the dog has no hair, brushing is not needed. On their hair on their legs
and tail, use a wide toothed comb, followed by a fine toothed comb to ensure no matts
exist.
They need regular baths and moisturizer and sunscreen must be applied for their skin.
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Module 5
Remember to massage the skin regularly to stimulate blood flow.
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Module 5
Defining some of the Coat Terms
It's important that you understand the many terms that come with dog grooming.
There are many words associated with the dog’s coats. These are worth mentioning so
that you get a fair idea on what each means:
Blow coat – it describes the yearly or biannual shedding activity of your dog when it
blows off handfuls of its long hair
Broken coat – same as wire coat
Corded coat – coat with dreadlocks
Crinkly coat – wire coat found on the Wire Fox Terrier
Guard hairs – same as top coat
Linty coat – coat with unusual soft downy texture
Open coat – sparsely haired coat which is usually a single coat
Out of coat – refers to a dog that has shed its undercoat and is waiting for the new coat
to grow. They do not look as great as they do with their full coats
Pilycoat – refers to coat with dense, tough top with a soft fur-like undercoat.
Stand-off coat – long coat that doesn’t lay back rather stands straight up.
Top coat – the harsh outer coat that protects dog’s skin and undercoat from weather
Two-ply coat – same as double coat
Undercoat – downy coat that lies beneath the top coat sheds once or twice in a year
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Module 5
The Skin and Abnormalities
The skin is the largest organ in the dog’s body. It provides a barrier to protect the body
from infections, parasites, and the elements. It also prevents, and allows for, loss of
moisture.
As it is exposed it is susceptible to injury and disease
Made up of layers of cells, lubricating glands, blood vessels, nerve endings, and hair
follicles which produce hairs. Outer covering called the 'epidermis' and the deeper layer
called the 'dermis'.
The epidermis is composed of older cells that form a tough, almost impervious, protective
outer barrier. As the outer cells erode, other cells mature and move up to replace them.
The epidermis varies in thickness. In the more exposed areas, such as the head and
back, the epidermis is thicker than areas such as the armpits and belly. The deeper layer
(dermis) contains hair follicles, blood vessels, nerves and sebaceous (oil) glands. Hair
follicles and sebaceous glands are more prevalent on the back than on the belly.
Hair and nails are made of a hard substance called keratin.
Skin Problems
As a dog groomer you are going to regularly come across doggie irregularities that canine
parents can either not notice or dismiss as ‘normal’
It is of utmost importance that you have the knowledge to recognise and suggest to the
owner that there is a problem
Your reputation will be helped or hindered by your ability to notify owners of issues that
need intervention.
Sebaceous Glands
Sebaceous glands are glands at the base of the hair follicle that produce oils to protect
the coat. The oil is called sebum and is there to prevent excess wetting or drying, also
insulates against temperature changes.
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Sebaceous Cysts
Blocked sebaceous glands can feel like mini-tumours. Known as sebaceous cyst. You will
come across sebaceous cysts in your career as a groomer. They are usually quite a small
bump and appear to look like a spot. You need not panic but it's important to notify
owner to monitor it but do not aggravate the cyst. Regular brushing can prevent
sebaceous cysts and help remove existing ones.
For a professional groomer it would be wise to advise the owner to pop into their vet and
just ask in reception is this a sebaceous cyst. This will more than likely be free, and will
protect you from any complaints in the future should it turn out to be something more
serious.
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Module 5
Allergic Dermatitis
Allergic dermatitis is often called atopic dermatitis. It is quite similar to eczema in
humans.
Dogs can often have a reaction to the grooming equipment or products, so you should
prepare to cater to all dogs.
Allergic dermatitis can be triggered by food and the environment. Symptoms include
scratching and rashes. Often corticosteroids are prescribed – this has behavioural
implications. Best to identify and eliminate cause of these allergies instead of constantly
treating with drugs.
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Module 5
Yeast Infections
Yeast infections in dogs are often seen in ears and on paws. You will see irritated, itchy,
discoloured scaly skin.
Yeast infections can fester in damp dark environments, and treatments would include
creams or perhaps oral drugs and washes can treat these infections.
Dogs will often have great reactions to changing to a high quality food, so more often
than not switching to a high quality, grain free food will clear up the problem without
requiring drugs.
You should always recommend that the client visits the vet.
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Module 5
Folliculitis
Also knows as superficial bacterial folliculitis. It causes Sores, bumps and scabs on the
skin. In long haired dog only symptom would be shedding with scaly skin.
Not too often seen in the grooming room as folliculitis often comes with mange, allergies
or injury.
If you do come across it in a grooming room you might use an antibacterial shampoo, but
you should discuss this with the client to ensure they are aware of the condition you
have observed.
Oral antibiotics often prescribed, though again a change to higher quality food would
really benefit.
Impetigo
Impetigo is a bacterial infection which is quite common in puppies.
It will usually appear on the belly, and looks like pus filled blisters. These blisters may
break and crust over, but can clear up quite quickly with a topical solution.
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Module 5
Seborrhoea
Many dogs skin can be greasy and scaly, which appears like dandruff. This can be
genetic, though usually it is a symptom of allergies or hormonal abnormalities.
Owners should be advised to seek veterinary intervention and consider changing to a
higher quality diet.
Ringworm
Ringworm – worms without the worm! It is actually a fungus, which has ring like lesions
found all over the dog’s body, often on the head, paws, ears or forelegs.
The skin will be inflamed, with scaly patches with hair loss.
Puppies are quite susceptible, and it is very easily spread from dog to dog. It is also a
zoonosis, which means humans can contaminate the fungus from dogs.
Creedons would recommend that you do not groom a dog with ringworm but instead
send it to the vets with its owner immediately
.
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Module 5
Alopecia
Poor nutrition or illness can cause alopecia, which is hair loss on the dog. Stress can also
trigger it.
You should advise your client to visit the vet as soon as they can to determine the cause.
Acral Lick Granuloma
This is caused by compulsive licking. It is often triggered by an injury or an itch, but can
lead to OCD behavioural problems as the dog learns to enjoy the behaviour. This
condition will need veterinary attention, and the vet may recommend behavioural
intervention.
Elizabethan collar may be necessary to prevent progressive injury
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Module 5
Hot Spots
Hot spots are acute moist dermatitis. They are usually small red irritated and inflamed
localised abnormality, and are often found on head, hips or chest.
They can feel hot, and are often triggered by infections, allergies, insect bite, excessive
licking or chewing.
Treatment includes cleaning and drying, and preventing progressive worsening
Remember!
Always
refer
client
to
their
vet
should
you
find
any
abnormalities.
You are not a vet. You can give your opinion but clarify that you are not a vet.
It is your responsibility to encourage the client to see the vet should condition be serious
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