Harper`s Bazaar - July 2016 UK
Transcription
Harper`s Bazaar - July 2016 UK
JULY 2016 £4.40 z a a r. c o. ww harpers ba w. uk EMILIA CLARKE From Game of Thrones to modern heroine THE BEST of BRITISH Perfect tea-dresses, pink cardigans & floral wellies SUN KISSED BEAUTY HOW TO GET A HEALTHY GLOW The SUMMER of LOVE 07 9 771751 159088 FASHION’S ROMANTIC NEW MOOD CONTENTS JULY 2016 102 PAGE ON THE COVER 102 Emilia Clarke: from Game of Thrones to modern heroine From 149 Sun kissed beauty: how to get a healthy glow From 61 The best of British: perfect tea-dresses, pink cardigans & floral wellies 130 LAST NIGHT I DREAMED I WENT TO MANDERLEY AGAIN… Karen Elson conjures up an English gothic romance FEATURES 102 SWEPT AWAY Emilia Clarke on the pleasures of working with the female team behind her new film after the macho atmosphere of Game of Thrones 140 STATE OF THE ART As Tate Modern is expanded and relaunched, we meet five women who exemplify the brilliance of the iconic gallery 66 114 FASHION BESIDE THE SILVER SEA Hollie-May Saker takes to the beach in silk, tulle and cashmere www.harpersbazaar.co.uk 61 72 74 78 STYLE 10 THINGS WE LOVE From Stella McCartney’s swimwear to Hermès’ royal-birthday scarf THE STYLE GUIDE The trophy skirt, and six ways to wear it MY MOODBOARD Emilia Wickstead’s silver-screen inspirations for S/S 16 MY LIFE, MY STYLE Inside the Cotswolds home of the knitwear designer Alex Gore Browne ACCESSORIES ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS Animal print, vivid greens and peacock blues make the season’s bags and shoes a riot of joyous colour 85 86 90 92 93 94 96 97 BAZAAR AT WORK BOLD STROKES Red and black accessories for a strong business look DOUBLE LIFE Could a second job be the key to professional fulfilment? TALKING POINTS ABOUT TIME Yayoi Kusama’s new shows bring her life-long search for the infinite to London REAL DEALS The best of the Masterpiece art fair SPIRIT OF THE PLACE How the Althorp Literary Festival lifts the heart and enlivens the mind THE ART OF CRAFT AS Byatt’s new book hails two titans of design: William Morris and Mariano Fortuny DADDY COOL The novelist Kit de Waal recalls how her dashing father informed her own sense of style DO THE CHARLESTON A touch of Bloomsbury Group panache July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 29 ▼ PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID SLIJPER. SEE MAIN STORY AND STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS Emilia Clarke in Christian Dior Haute Couture CONTENTS 114 PAGE The fashion story ‘Beside the silver sea’ BEAUTY BAZAAR 149 HEAT WAVE How to create a subtle, believable summer glow; get sleek, frizz-free hair; and pick the right SPF products for you 156 SUN-KISSED SCENTS Perfumes that whisk you away to far-off lands 158 THE BEAUTY EDIT The actress and model Gabriella Wilde reveals her routine ESCAPE 162 IN SEARCH OF ALBION Discover the most glorious destinations our isles have to offer FLASH! 168 L’ENTENTE CORDIALE A very British fashion celebration in the heart of Paris 169 SOUTH BANK SHOW The stars and stories from the National Theatre’s glamorous dinner REGULARS EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS HOROSCOPES July in the stars. By Peter Watson 170 STOCKISTS 178 WHY DON’T YOU? Unique fashion advice that summons the spirit of Diana Vreeland’s famous monthly column 52 54 98 SUBSCRIBE to HARPER’S BAZAAR For this month’s fabulous subscription offer COVER LOOKS Above far left: Emilia Clarke wears silk dress, to order, Christian Dior Haute Couture. Pink gold, diamond and sapphire earrings; matching ring, both from a selection, Dior Joaillerie. Near left (subscribers’ cover): silk chiffon dress, to order, Christian Dior Haute Couture. Styled by Leith Clark. Hair by Kevin Ryan at Art & Commerce, using Unite Beach Day Texturizing Spray. Make-up by Monika Blunder at the Wall Group, using Smashbox. Manicure by Nettie Davis at the Wall Group. Photographs by David Slijper. Above near right (limited-edition cover available exclusively online at www.hearstmagazines.co.uk/hz/ july16-KarenElson): wool jacket, about £1,545; matching trousers, about £570; wool mix jumper, about £935, all Céline. Hair by Panos at CLM Hair & Make-up, using Tigi Bed Head. Make-up by Mary Frost at Jed Root, using Chanel S/S 2016 and No 5 Body Cream. Model: Karen Elson at Tess Management. Photograph by Erik Madigan Heck. Above far right (limited-edition cover available at Harrods, Selfridges, selected independent retailers and online at www.hearstmagazines.co.uk/hz/july16-HollieMaySaker): stretch cotton frilled jacket, £1,545; matching trousers, £475, both Christopher Kane. Studded leather sandals, £295, Church’s. See Stockists for details. Hair by Kota Suizu at Caren, using Leonor Greyl. Make-up by Ciara O’Shea at LGA Management, using Chanel S/S 2016 and No 5 Body Cream. Model: Hollie-May at Models 1 34 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPH: AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA turn to page 56, or ring 0844 322 1768 .CO.UK FASHION BEAUTY CULTURE BAZAAR BRIDES BAZAAR AT WORK TRAVEL With music festivals, sporting tournaments and the Queen’s 90th-birthday celebrations, there’s never been a better time to holiday in the UK FA R M H O U S E R E T R E AT S M I N I A DV E N T U R E S BESIDE THE SEASIDE Escape to one of these charming boltholes for a home away from home The best places to stay, from Cornwall to the Cotswolds The most spectacular beach-front houses available for rent in this country N OW O N L I N E AT HARPERSBAZA AR .CO.UK PHOTOGRAPHS: REGAN CAMERON, COURTESY OF SOHO FARMHOUSE, ERIK MADIGAN HECK, DAVID SLIJPER BEST OF BRITISH SUBSCRIBE Published on 1 June JUSTINE PICARDIE Editor-in-chief Creative director MARISSA BOURKE Deputy editor LYDIA SLATER Design director JO GOODBY Managing editor CONNIE OSBORNE Workflow director/associate editor FRANCES HEDGES Assistant to the editor TERESA FITZHERBERT FASHION Fashion director AVRIL MAIR Global fashion director CARINE ROITFELD Executive fashion, beauty and jewellery director JULIE-ANNE DORFF Bookings director MEGAN M C CLUSKIE Executive fashion and jewellery editor CHARLIE BOYD Style director-at-large LEITH CLARK Senior fashion editor MIRANDA ALMOND Junior fashion editors FLORRIE THOMAS, ANNA ROSA VITIELLO Senior fashion assistants CHARLOTTE DAVEY, LUCY KEBBELL Bookings assistant ALICE HART Fashion assistant TILLY WHEATING Contributing fashion editors SARA GILMOUR, CHARLIE HARRINGTON Editor-at-large EUGENIE HANMER JUST £10 FOR 6 ISSUES* FEATURES Features editor HELENA LEE Entertainment director/associate editor TOM MACKLIN Assistant editor/travel editor LUCY HALFHEAD Commissioning editor CATRIONA GRAY Contributing literary editor ERICA WAGNER Contributing features assistant CHLOE SHERARD-KNOTT BEAUTY AND HEALTH Beauty director SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD Beauty editor VICTORIA HALL Senior contributing editor, beauty HANNAH BETTS Beauty assistant ROSIE CAVE FREE ART Associate editor HANNAH RIDLEY Art director AMY GALVIN Senior designer LEANNE ROBSON Designer ALBY BAILEY Penhaligon’s Vaara Eau de Parfum 50ml PICTURES Photography director RACHEL LOUISE BROWN Picture editor LIZ PEARN Picture assistant LOREN LAZI C-DUFFY WORTH £90 COPY Chief sub-editor DOM PRICE Deputy chief sub-editor and online travel writer CAROLINE LEWIS Sub-editors KATE KELLEY, YASMIN OMAR WEBSITE Digital editor SARAH KARMALI Digital assistant editor REBECCA COPE Digital writer AMY DE KLERK ONLY £1.67 A COPY (USUAL PRICE £4.40) SAVE 62% on newsstand price ORDER SECURELY ONLINE SIMPLY VISIT WWW.HARPERSBAZAAR.CO.UK/JULY16 OR RING 0844 322 1768 AND QUOTE OFFER CODE 1BZ11005 *This offer closes on 30 June 2016. For full terms and conditions, see page 56. CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGR APHERS DAVID BAILEY, KOTO BOLOFO, HENRY BOURNE, JULIAN BROAD, REGAN CAMERON, LIZ COLLINS, HARRY CORY WRIGHT, TOM CRAIG, HARRY CROWDER, VICTOR DEMARCHELIER, FRANÇOIS DISCHINGER, PAMELA HANSON, ERIK MADIGAN HECK, ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI, MARY M C CARTNEY, TRENT M C GINN, JEAN BAPTISTE MONDINO, VINCENT PETERS, DAVID SLIJPER, BEN WELLER, PAUL ZAK INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS ARABIA, ARGENTINA, AUSTRALIA, BRAZIL, BULGARIA, CHILE, CHINA, CZECH REPUBLIC, GERMANY, GREECE, HONG KONG, INDIA, INDONESIA, JAPAN, KAZAKHSTAN, KOREA, LATIN AMERICA, MALAYSIA, NETHERLANDS, POLAND, ROMANIA, RUSSIA, SERBIA, SINGAPORE, SPAIN, TAIWAN, THAILAND, TURKEY, UKRAINE, UNITED STATES, VIETNAM Harper’s Bazaar ISSN 0141-0547 is published monthly (12 times a year) by Hearst UK c/o USACAN Media Corp, 123a Distribution Way, Building H–1, Suite 104, Plattsburgh, NY 12901. Periodicals postage paid at Plattsburgh, NY. POSTMASTER: send address changes to Harper’s Bazaar c/o Express Mag, PO Box 2769, Plattsburgh, NY 12901-0239. Harper’s Bazaar is distributed by Condé Nast and National Magazine Distributors Limited (COMAG), Tavistock Road, West Drayton, Middlesex UB7 7QE (01895 433600; fax: 01895 433602). Managing director: Mike Mirams. Sole agents for Australia and New Zealand: Gordon & Gotch (Australasia) Ltd. Agents for South Africa: Central News Agency Ltd. Copyright © Hearst Magazines UK, July 2016, Issue No 7/16. We regret that any free gifts, supplements, books or other items included with the magazine when it is sold in the UK are not available with copies purchased outside the UK. PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID SLIJPER, GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS CONTRIBUTING EDITORS SOPHIE ELMHIRST, AMANDA HARLECH, ANNA MURPHY, JULIE MYERSON, ANDREW O’HAGAN, CAROLINE ROUX, CATHERINE ST GERMANS, SASHA SLATER, MARTHA WARD Published on 1 June JACQUELINE EUWE Group publishing director Personal assistant to the group publishing director CHARLOTTE ROTTENBURG Associate publisher ANTONIA WIGAN Fashion and luxury advertising director ANNA O’SULLIVAN Brand director EMILY HOPCROFT Luxury goods and jewellery manager CLARE RUSSELL Commercial editor JO GLYNN-SMITH Group director, luxury create RHIANNON THOMAS Partnership director ROZANA HALL Partnership manager, luxury SHANNON HOLLIS Partnership manager SIOBHAN COSGRAVE Business manager KATIE FRAMPTON Regional sales director KEELY MCINTOSH Business development manager DANIELLE SEWELL Italian and Swiss agent SAMANTHA DI CLEMENTE Director, Hearst Magazines Direct CAMERON DUNN Art director, promotions TANJA RUSI Art editor, promotions ALEX MERTEKIS Associate art editor, promotions LEO GODDARD Project managers ROMY VAN DEN BROEKE, CAMILLA WESTON Hearst Live, head of events and sponsorship VICTORIA ARCHBOLD Hearst Live, sponsorship director RACHEL HUGHES Hearst Live, events manager MARIE CAZAUX Production director JOHN HUGHES Production manager JOANNE KEOGH Advertising production controller PAUL TAYLOR Circulation and marketing director REID HOLLAND Head of newstrade marketing JENNIFER SMITH Head of digital marketing SEEMA KUMARI Circulation manager MATTHEW BLAIZE-SMITH Group marketing manager NATASHA BARTMAN Senior marketing executive TILLY MICHELL Head of public relations KAREN MEACHEN HEARST MAGAZINES UK Chief executive officer ANNA JONES Managing director, brands MICHAEL ROWLEY Chief financial officer CLAIRE BLUNT Group commercial director ELLA DOLPHIN Human resources director SURINDER SIMMONS Director of communications LISA QUINN Hearst Magazines UK, the trading name of the National Magazine Company Ltd, 72 Broadwick Street, London W1F 9EP (www.hearst.co.uk; www.harpersbazaar.co.uk) HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL President/chief executive officer DUNCAN EDWARDS Senior vice-president/chief financial officer/general manager SIMON HORNE Senior vice-president/director of licensing and business development GAUTAM RANJI Senior vice-president/international publishing director JEANNETTE CHANG Senior vice-president/editorial director KIM ST CLAIR BODDEN Fashion and entertainment director KRISTEN INGERSOLL Executive editor ELEONORE MARCHAND International editions editor BRUNI PADILLA Vice president and senior leader, EU digital hub LEE WILKINSON Talk to us on Twitter @BazaarUK BELLA SICILIA For existing subscription enquiries, changes of address and back-issue orders for Harper’s Bazaar, please ring our enquiry line on 0844 848 5203*, email [email protected], or write to Harper’s Bazaar, Hearst Magazines UK, Tower House, Sovereign Park, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire LE16 9EF. Please quote your subscription number in all correspondence. For new and renewal orders, please ring 0844 848 1601* or visit www. qualitymagazines.co.uk. Phone lines are open weekdays, 8am–9.30pm; Saturdays, 8am–4pm. *BT landline calls to 0844 numbers will cost no more than 5p a minute; calls from mobiles and other networks usually cost more. C ON C A D ’O RO Gold and ruby cuff Printed by Senefelder Missett, Mercuriusstraat 35, 7006 RK Doetinchem, Holland. Harper’s Bazaar is fully protected by copyright, and nothing may be reprinted wholly or in part without permission. Cassandra Goad 147 Sloane Street London SW1X 9BZ Tel: 020 7730 2202 cassandragoad.com HEARST MAGAZINES UK ENVIRONMENTAL STATEMENT All paper used to make this magazine is from sustainable sources in Scandinavia, and we encourage our suppliers to join an accredited green scheme. Magazines are now fully recyclable. By recycling magazines, you can help to reduce waste and add to the 5.5 million tonnes of paper already recycled by the UK paper industry each year. Before you recycle your magazine, please ensure that you remove all plastic wrapping, free gifts and samples. If you are unable to participate in a recycling scheme, then why not pass your magazine on to a local hospital or charity? EDITOR’S LETTER Left: Emilia Clarke wears Christian Dior Haute Couture (page 102). Below left: ‘Beside the silver sea’ (page 114) £595 Amanda Wakeley Welcome to the July issue of Harper’s Bazaar, which celebrates all that we love about being British. Our starting point is not an insular definition of an island nation, closed to outside influence or suspicious of foreign affairs. We are part of a global brand, with several dozen sister magazines around the world – including the United States, China, Russia, India, Spain, Germany, Holland, Japan and Australia – and the British edition has always been inspired by fashion designers, photographers, writers and artists of different nationalities. What links our contributors is creativity, rather than creed; a belief that we are greater together than apart. But this approach is also integral to what it means to live and work in Britain today. I am a Londoner, born and bred, in a city defined by flux and motion; a place kept alive by constant new life-blood, rather than stagnation; with an ebb and flow of immigration and exodus, from the Romans onwards. Consider the currents now at play in the fashion industry: British creative directors taking the helm at international brands (Phoebe Philo at Céline, for example); while simultaneously, London has become the base for talented designers from around the world (including Erdem, Roksanda, Mary Katrantzou, Simone Rocha and Emilia Wickstead). So, too, have British actors and directors spread their wings, whether in Hollywood or in the imaginary landscapes of fantasy – as epitomised by our From a selection cover star this month, Emilia Clarke (having come to Boodles fame in Game of Thrones, she is about to star in the EDITOR’S adaption of Jojo Moyes’ novel Me Before You). PICKS All of which means, I hope, that you’ll disI’m dressing for the Althorp cover as much to enjoy in the July issue as Literary Festival this month, and we’ve had in the voyage of its creation. while I’m hoping for balmy sunshine, Finally, in the spirit of collaboration, we’re I’m also prepared for the uncertainty of also encouraging you to become members an English summer. All of which calls of our Bazaar readers’ panel (www.harpers for a resolutely British approach: bazaar.co.uk/reader-panel). We truly want Amanda Wakeley separates, to know which beauty products you love – so Boodles diamonds and please join us, and start spreading the word… a smile… From a selection Boodles £530 Erdem £830 Manolo Blahnik £295 Amanda Wakeley 52 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 £3,500 Dior £2,215 Sara Battaglia for Salvatore Ferragamo Justine Picardie PS: Don’t miss the chance to subscribe to Harper’s Bazaar – turn to page 56 for details of this month’s offer. www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID SLIJPER, AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA, OLIVER HOLMS, GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS NATIONAL TREASURES The bestselling author’s varied career includes working as a minicab controller and writing Braille statements for NatWest. After nine years as a correspondent for The Independent, she began writing novels full-time in 2002. Me Before You, published in 2012, has sold over three million copies and has been adapted into a film starring Emilia Clarke. Read her interview with the actress (above left) on page 102. The best thing about being British ‘The English countryside and greasy-spoon cafés.’ The daughter of an Irish mother and a Caribbean father, Birmingham-born Kit de Waal worked for years in criminal and family law before writing her first novel at 51. My Name is Leon, her debut, sparked a six-way bidding war between publishers and is out this month. On page 96 she tells us how her father’s sense of style informed her own. The best thing about being British ‘My father only ever intended to come to England for a short time and yet, when he went back to the Caribbean in his sixties, ostensibly to stay, he was back within three months. He missed Morecambe and Wise.’ Five words that sum up Britishness ‘Fair, funny, freaky, off-beat, cool.’ Your British hero ‘Graham Greene. I have read all his books and essays and learned more from him than any other writer.’ 56 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 Born Alalia Chetwynd, the performance artist changed her name to Spartacus in 2006 because she wanted something that was ‘more robust’. She was nominated for the Turner Prize in 2012, and her work is exhibited in the Saatchi Gallery and the Tate (page 140). She changed her name again to Marvin Gaye in 2013, and lives in London with her husband and four-year-old son. When his pictures of Emma Watson appeared in US Harper’s Bazaar when he was only 19, Crowder became one of the youngest ever contributors to the magazine. Five years later, his pictures regularly feature in Town & Country and Bazaar UK, including his shoot with the knitwear designer Alex Gore Browne on page 74 (right). The most beautiful place in Britain ‘Scotland: the beaches The biggest myth about the British above Ullapool.’ ‘That we drink too much. Wait, who am I kidding?’ The biggest myth about the British ‘That we’re not sexy.’ Favourite British work of art ‘I like Peter Blake’s 1967 cover of the Beatles’ Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band.’ Your British hero ‘Isambard Kingdom Brunel.’ Favourite British work of art ‘I can’t choose one. Anything by Hockney or Bacon.’ Your British hero ‘Don McCullin’s photographs and Christopher Hitchens’ essays have had a huge impact on me.’ Five words that sum up Britishness ‘Stoic, kind, fair, humorous, thirsty.’ Favourite book by a British author ‘National Velvet by Enid Bagnold.’ Favourite British work of art ‘Whistlejacket by Stubbs. Or anything by Bruce McLean.’ PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID SLIJPER, HARRY CROWDER, JUSTINE STODDART, COURTESY OF JOJO MOYES CONTRIBUTORS SUBSCRIBE FREE Penhaligon’s Vaara Eau de Parfum 50 ml £90 JUST £10 FOR 6 ISSUES* ORDER SECURELY ONLINE SIMPLY VISIT WWW.HARPERSBAZAAR.CO.UK/JULY2016 OR RING 0844 322 1768 AND QUOTE OFFER CODE 1BZ10827 Terms and conditions: *after the first six issues, Direct Debit subscriptions will continue at the rate of £15 every six issues thereafter, unless you are notified otherwise. All orders will be acknowledged and you will be advised of commencement issue within 14 days. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer and closes on 30 June 2016. The free gift is limited to the first 300 orders. If we run out of this gift, you will be offered an alternative gift of a similar value. Please allow 28 days for delivery. Subscriptions will not include promotional items packed with the magazines. Subscriptions may be cancelled by providing 28 days’ notice prior to the first anniversary of your subscription. The normal cost of 12 issues is £52.80, based on a basic cover price of £4.40. For UK subscription enquiries, ring 0844 848 1601. Lines are open weekdays, 8am–9.30pm; Saturdays, 8am–4pm. Calls to 0844 numbers cost 7p per minute plus your phone company’s access charge. For overseas subscription enquiries, ring +44 1858 438794, or visit www.hearstmagazines.co.uk. PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID SLIJPER, GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS WORTH AT WORK LIVE Join the Bazaar At Work network, for events and ideas that connect and inspire K NOWLEDGE IS POWER EXCLUSIVE DISCUSSIONS AND FORUMS – PLUS MUST-READ INTERVIEWS AND WORK-STYLE GALLERIES – ALL ON OUR WEBSITE W W W.BAZAAR ATWORK.CO.UK PHOTOGRAPH: ERIK MADIGAN HECK Our dedicated website brings together intelligent, stylish working women and high-profile interviewees to network, empower and learn. Each week, Bazaaratwork.co.uk interviews senior businesswomen and shares the secrets of their success, while our life coach gives tips on staying serene in a busy world. You’ll also find expert advice on style and presentation, and the latest news affecting career women today, as well as the opportunity to buy tickets to our exclusive Bazaar At Work events programme. Join us at www.bazaaratwork.co.uk. STYLE Edited by AVRIL MAIR 10 THINGS WE LOVE The most romantic looks for summer T H E OB J E C T OF DE SI R E Bracelet, from a selection Boodles. Ballet shoes, from £40 Freed P h ot o g r a p hb yP COMPILED BY ANNA ROSA VITIELLO. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS Boodles has captured the grace and elegance of a prima ballerina in ‘Pas de Deux’, a collection inspired by the Royal Ballet – a duet made in heaven. AU LZ AK STYLE £2,495 Jimmy Choo TO K E E R E B O OT A mainstay of great British style, the welly has gone luxe for S/S 16. Saint Laurent’s tapestry rose-print boots will be as at home in the city as in the country: has there ever been a better excuse to invest in a pair? N T H £1,255 Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane E OW NAM T HE A N N I V E R SA RY: J IM M Y CHOO W E L LY ac ap ed esign as d nniversary Ih 20th a . An O O’S ee m c e i H b p o d O ies ach H the y, e ac sh brand. eg Briti at ir reative d ector S A N l’s c e DR b elebrating J A e la lection c IM h l C M T co e label’s redh Y t e o l ca r t C su ode p et cation of th histi is g l sop re TH T H R E E G R AC E S LO N D O N Founded in 2015 by Catherine Johnson, Three Graces is a desirable collection of handmade silk sleepwear, robes and lingerie. Truly the stuff of dreams. 62 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk www.harpersbazaar.co.uk IN From a selection Mulberry I -T £575 Roksanda £99 Marks & Spencer A N YA H I N D M A R C H M S P O R T S DA YS por for spring. But this is n t o ex s - i n s pir think Alexander M cus ed cQ e to On you r ma ueen we rks or ,g et S s THE S TE LL A M C C A R TN E Y A N YA H I N D M A R C H PHOTOGRAPHS: JASON LLOYD-EVANS, IMAXTREE, GETTY IMAGES, KAT PISIOLEK AND GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS. COMPILED BY CHARLOTTE DAVEY AND ANNA ROSA VITIELLO. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS A N YA H I N D M A R C H £570 Victoria Beckham £295 Anya Hindmarch £445 Stella McCartney £720 Alexander McQueen at Net-A-Porter £36 Topshop £1,395 Anya Hindmarch ve her, re e e ; rat s w t r es y. ho ec cra s artne pi C y c L M ar ella o! t g … et ND E R rywhere £695 Burberry £259 Polo Ralph Lauren £295 Anya Hindmarch £295 Amanda Wakeley £280 Hermès T H E C OL L A BOR AT ION E I S S U HERMÈS Marking the momentous occasion of the Queen’s 90th birthday, Hermès has reproduced an original 1980s Henri d’Origny scarf, updated with four figurine horses. R M AC K I N TO S H The historic British label Mackintosh has teamed up with Maison Michel for a capsule collection of three waterproof hat styles, including this fisherman’s hat with signature saddle stitch. Rainy days have never looked so appealing. E MAISON MICHEL X E T H £1,299 Alexander McQueen at Harrods £1,890 Erdem at Browns T H E K EY PIECE TEA- DRESSES Who can resist the charm of the tea-dress? Certainly not Alexander McQueen or Erdem, whose embellished floral versions are pretty and feminine in equal measure. A pussybow tie, a ruffled sleeve, a high neck… the delight is in the detail. £225 Topshop Unique 64 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 £865 Peter Pilotto www.harpersbazaar.co.uk STYLE E KNI WEAR £480 Simone Rocha T TH £786 Barrie £260 Bella Freud £395 Pringle of Scotland CARDIGANS Never underestimate the appeal of the familiar: the humble cardigan earned big fashion credentials this season. Choose pastel tones for a summery mood and button up to the top for lady-like gentility. Y E ng TN fo r : R pi s w i A STE mw cLL A MCC ins p i r e a r l i ne , feat ur i ng seven ed e ... s t r ip u ng l p es. Ti m e e t o t a ke t h it i wa st m n e be ’ve her e w s w c he d Ol y It’s t he ne a u n t s to ha s l ui of h s fr u e r ic o r t i n ic p r i n t s f r o m c fir PHOTOGRAPHS: GRAHAM WALSER AND MATT VEAL/HEARST STUDIOS. COMPILED BY CHARLOTTE DAVEY AND ANNA ROSA VITIELLO. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS THE SW IM W E A R NO 1 drama flo o lengt h r- A long, flowing silhouette adds a grown-up elegance to sparkly sequins. STYLE GUIDE THIS PAGE: woven skirt, £270, CH Carolina Herrera. Cotton and lace shirt, £1,370, Miu Miu. Leather bag, about £1,030, Marc Jacobs. Suede sandals, £355, Stuart Weitzman. OPPOSITE: sequin skirt, £995, J Crew. Cotton shirt, £190, Jacob Cohen. Gold ring, £140, Links of London. Gold and diamond ring, £7,050, Boucheron. Leather bag, £1,510, Gucci. Suede heels, £165, Russell & Bromley y-li k a e d la upda t NO 2 e Bold block colours for an instantly fresh new look. T H E S T Y L E G U I D E T HE T R O P HY SK IRT From show-stopping stripes to romantic pleats, this classic piece is reinvented for summery chic By ANNA ROSA VITIELLO PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEXANDER MEININGER STYLED BY FLORRIE THOMAS e nd p l a le NO 3 ated past STYLE GUIDE N Pretty without being prim: the fluidity adds a touch of subtle grace. l NO 4 mer a im tle sh t i The secret to mastering contemporary glamour, a metallic midi transforms a fine-knit sweater. From far left: organza skirt, £995; cashmere top, £625, both Christopher Kane. White gold bracelet, £5,300, Cartier. Leather and metal clutch, £795, Giuseppi Zanotti Design. Crochet and leather heels, £625, Tabitha Simmons. Polymix skirt, £49.50, Marks & Spencer. Wool jumper, £600, Maison Margiela at Harvey Nichols. Gold ring, £1,285, Cassandra Goad. Leather bag, £1,095, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. Leather heels, £595, Jimmy Choo. Polymix skirt, £29.99, H&M. Cashmere jumper, £225, Joseph. Gold bracelet, £4,235, Tiffany & Co. Crocodile clutch, £1,522, Nancy Gonzalez. Leather heels, £505, Giuseppe Zanotti Design. Silk mix skirt, £455, Max Mara. Wool top, £595, Christopher Kane. Diamond ring, £3,150, Tiffany & Co. Metal clutch, £1,095, Jimmy Choo. Leather heels, £180, Kurt Geiger ALEXANDER MEININGER pa th e ring da irin g NO 5 Embrace Modernist colour in unexpected combinations. ALEXANDER MEININGER ct m h NO 6 tc e rf a the pe THIS PAGE: polyester skirt, £970, Mary Katrantzou at Harvey Nichols. Elastane top, £20, Next. Gold bracelet, £5,225, Cassandra Goad. Leather clutch, £950, Sergio Rossi. Crochet flats, £465, Tabitha Simmons. OPPOSITE: wool skirt, £375, JW Anderson at Net-A-Porter. Cotton and silk top, £205, Sonia Rykiel at Net-A-Porter. Gold bracelet, £4,950, Cartier. Gold ring, £1,285, Cassandra Goad. Suede sandals, £920, Gianvito Rossi. See Stockists for details. Manicure by Sabrina Gayle at LMC Worldwide, using Chanel Le Vernis in Ballerina and Body Excellence Hand Cream. Model: Serena Marques at Nevs Models Team a brightly coloured silk skirt and clutch with lace flats and a simple blouse for a summer occasion. STYLE GUIDE Left: Emilia Wickstead’s moodboard for S/S 16. Below: looks from the collection MY MOODBOARD The designer Emilia Wickstead recalls Fifties silver-screen goddesses for her latest collection Emilia Wickstead has dressed everyone from the Duchess of Cambridge to Diane Kruger, so it makes sense that strong women are her focus this season. The designer looked to timeless icons of the 1950s, including Lauren Bacall and Grace Kelly. ‘I was inspired by their ability to be comfortable and happy in exploring their identity,’ says Wickstead. ‘I wanted to capture this, and create something fresh and exciting.’ Taking an evocative image of Romy Schneider as her starting point, Wickstead translated it into voluminous silhouettes and bold prints, with billowing gowns awash with colourful florals and dresses featuring gathered hems for a ‘puffed-sleeve’ effect. Sporty stripes also materialised in feminine pastels on an empire-line silk dress. ‘I love to mix traditional with contemporary to add some punch to delicate shapes,’ says Wickstead. ANNA ROSA VITIELLO 72 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk MOODBOARD COURTESY OF EMILIA WICKSTEAD. PHOTOGRAPHS: IMAXTREE STYLE MY LIFE, MY STYLE The knitwear designer Alex Gore Browne opens up her Cotswolds home – and her wardrobe – to reveal a collection of eclectic vintage treasures By LUCY HALFHEAD Photographs by HARRY CROWDER W hen I was growing up, I wasn’t into fashion at all,’ admits the British knitwear designer Alex Gore Browne, as we walk along the river that separates her garden from the sheepflecked Wiltshire countryside beyond. ‘I used to love constructing intricate little theatre scenes out of cereal boxes. Now, when I knit on the machine, it’s the process of transferring the needles and casting off that I find very therapeutic.’ Gore Browne launched her eponymous label in 2000 after completing a BA in Textile Design at Central Saint Martins. Along with her peers, who included Jonathan Saunders and Roksanda Ilincic, she trained under the tutor and course director Louise Wilson. ‘Louise was absolutely terrifying,’ she says, ‘but, boy, did 74 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 you want to work hard.’ Her sophisticated handmade pieces soon caught the eye of Alexander McQueen and Matthew Williamson, who sourced fabrics from her, and Joseph Ettedgui, who bought the entire collection for his Brompton Cross shop. Today, she is a knit consultant for McQueen, working from a sun-dappled studio at Tidmington House, where she lives with her husband Jo, the son of Lord Bamford and heir to the JCB-digger business. They met in Ibiza through a mutual friend, and married at Chelsea Old Church in 2007 in front of 100 friends and family, followed by afternoon tea at Claridge’s. ‘I made my own dress for the wedding and my bridesmaids’ dresses,’ she says. ‘It took me about a month… never again.’ The couple moved to the Cotswolds six years ago, and are now happily settled there Above: Alex Gore Browne in her bedroom, wearing a top, £745, from her own label. Silk skirt, £775, Roksanda. Below: freshly picked flowers on the mantelpiece. Below left: the entrance to Tidmington House STYLE www.harpersbazaar.co.uk Above: jumper, £785, Alex Gore Browne. Silk skirt, £1,260, Jenny Packham at Net-A-Porter candles follows you from room to room, as do the family’s trio of canine companions, Button the beagle puppy, Tigger, a whippet, and the black labrador, Moon. Log fires crackle, and glass vases overflow with foxgloves and peonies from Willow Crossley Flowers. Upstairs in the children’s bedrooms, fairy lights are strung across the Barneby Gates stencilled star wallpaper, and Bamford body products line the bathroom shelves. The rich paint colours on the ground floor are the perfect backdrop for a beguiling collection of vintage prints and retro toys, including a glass cabinet of miniature cars that mirror the Alfa Romeo, Porsche and BMW parked on the drive outside. Gore Browne is an aficionado of the websites Selling Antiques and 1stdibs, as well as July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 75 ▼ with their two children: Tilly, who is seven, and five-year-old Teddy. They live 20 minutes up the road from Daylesford, the 1,500-acre organic estate founded by Jo’s mother, Lady Bamford. They had driven past this Grade II-listed house countless times before, and admired the elegant façade, which is visible from the road, when eventually it came up for sale. But it was also the previous owner’s bold use of colour that clinched it for them. ‘It was so refreshing to see,’ says Gore Browne, ‘because you get a lot of neutrals and beige everywhere today. Tidmington felt like a real home.’ It’s true; the house is effortlessly welcoming. The heady scent of Bamford car-boot sales and Chipping Norton’s Station Mill Antiques Centre. ‘There’s also the Newark Antiques & Collectors Fair… I’ve been there a lot,’ she says. ‘I really enjoy searching for evocative pieces.’ This seems to apply to Gore Browne’s wardrobe too: ‘I love sourcing unique vintage garments – I’ve got an amazing allin-one with culotte trousers that used to be a beach robe from the 1950s.’ She also has a weakness for Chinti and Parker cashmere jumpers (arranged by colour like a rainbow in her walk-in-wardrobe) that she wears with her own fluid knitted skirts or thrown on over Frame Denim jeans. ‘I do love dressing up,’ she says. ‘It’s nice to put on a pair of Aquazzura heels when I go back to London, because you just can’t do that here. Basically, you’re stepping out into mud for nine months of the year.’ So at home you’re more likely to find her in American Apparel leggings and Repetto ballet pumps for doing the school run. ‘Another benefit of working from home,’ she says. When they bought Tidmington, Gore Browne converted the dining-room into a magical children’s playroom, complete with swings and giant beanbags, that gives Giffords Circus a run for its money. ‘We’re just not formal people at all – we do a lot of ‘It’s the process of transferring the needles and casting off that I find very therapeutic’ 76 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. STYLED BY ANNA ROSA VITIELLO. HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY RACHEL SINGER CLARK, USING BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AND TOM FORD BEAUTY. PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF ALEX GORE BROWNE, KAT PISIOLEK AND GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS Right: a piece from Gore Brown’s A/W 16 line. Below: a collection of yarns. Bottom: jumper, £595, Alex Gore Browne STYLE PHOTOGRAPH: XXXXXX Below: lace and cotton dress, £300, SelfPortrait at Net-A-Porter. Cardigan, £1,285, Alex Gore Browne fancy-dress in this house,’ she says. For her 40th-birthday party last year, guests were invited to the ‘Tidmington Wilderness’ – a wonderland conjured up by Amanda Sheppard and India Langton’s Rose Productions, where multi-coloured balloons cascaded from upper windows and down the exterior walls of the house. Gore Browne wore Pucci and danced all night in the ribbon-draped marquee, after a Daylesford feast. ‘It was amazing,’ she says, ‘the greatest show on Earth.’ But despite the allure of this rural idyll, following a career break after the birth of her children, Gore Browne has returned to her knitting machine, and is preparing to unveil a collection for A/W 16. Her trademark feminine flourishes are visible in her new Pierrot-style cocktail sweaters in feather-light cashmere and merino wool – delicate beading, ruffles and the perfect gold trim. ‘I’m never confined by the boundaries of knitting,’ she says. ‘I’m inspired.’ ALEX’S WORLD £70 Charlotte Tilbury at Net-A-Porter Print, £220 Hugo Guinness Cushions, £295 each Yastik by Rifat Ozbek Coffee-table book, £9.95 Anthropologie www.harpersbazaar.co.uk July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 77 ACCESSOR IES nt H by e d i S li ma ne A BSOLUTELY FA BULOUS £9 6 0 S aint L au re Edited by AVRIL MAIR Pre-fall 16’s combination of prints, patterns and a punchy palette captures the essence of English eccentricity Photograph by PAUL ZAK Styled by FLORRIE THOMAS ACCESSORIES £1,770 Gucci £455 Lanvin £680 Lanvin ar d From a se lection Cho p £2,350 Chanel Cuff, £400 Hermès £ 15 Lu xo tti ca £1,150 Jimmy Choo 6 D ol ce & G a b ba na at Clutch, £1,880 Hermès £270 Gucci at Net-A-Porter SI R E N C A L L ful leopard Pillar-box red and play spots for high-octane glamour £595 Jimmy Choo £2,100 Dior From a selection Harry Winston £2,400 Céline £525 Jimmy Choo PHOTOGRAPHS: KAT PISIOLEK AND GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS £2,100 Calvin Klein Collection ,80 £7 0 B oodl e £512 Oscar de la Renta s £ 1 , 8 5 0 Stell July 2016 | cC ar tne y H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 79 ▼ www.harpersbazaar.co.uk aM £136 Ralph Lauren at Luxottica £395 Dolce & Gabbana at Browns £535 Casadei an g le , £ 3 45 F di Hairclip, £695 Dolce & Gabbana at Net-A-Porter en B £820 Max Mara £1,990 Gucci £620 Marni £275 Burberry at Net-A-Porter FI E L D DA Y Embellished emerald tones £2,050 Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane £445 Gianvito Rossi at Net-A-Porter create a floral fantasy £260 Tod’s at Net-A-Porter From a selection De Grisogono £1,775 Valentino Garavani £1,195 Alexander McQueen Bangle, £345 Fendi Bangle, from a selection David Morris 80 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R £485 Erdem | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHS: KAT PISIOLEK AND GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS Necklace, £1,100 Gucci at Browns ACCESSORIES £ 1 , 360 V al en t in o Garav an i MOONAGE DAYDR E A M ▼ These glorious Valentino Garavani boots may not be practical for festival season, but wherever they take you, adventures are sure to follow PAUL ZAK ACCESSORIES £ 2 , 2 5 0 Lo SIMPLE PLE ASUR ES ui u i t to n sV Stay cool in the city heat with Louis Vuitton’s effortlessly elegant colour-block tote PAUL ZAK £310 Dior From a selection Céline £40 Pandora £521 Dolce & Gabbana at Sunglass Hut Stole, £880 Louis Vuitton £355 Escada £475 Jimmy Choo £3,000 Louis Vuitton Brooch, from a selection David Morris CIND ER ELL A STO RY £665 Gucci £560 Manolo Blahnik ue prove the sky’s Polka-dots and peacock bl the limit for present-day princesses £115 Hermès G ri s og o n o , 6 0 0 De About £780 Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci £ 11 £260 Prada at David Clulow £2,7 0 D io r 0 £415 Aquazzura From a selection Dolce & Gabbana www.harpersbazaar.co.uk From a selection Dolce & Gabbana Ring, from a selection David Morris July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 83 ▼ PHOTOGRAPHS: KAT PISIOLEK AND GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS £1,290 Cartier AT WORK Wallet, £395 Mulberry Edited by D LY Sunglasses, £380 Dior I A SL A T Compact, £43 Chanel ER Phone case, £240 Louis Vuitton Watch, from a selection Patek Philippe Money clip, £100 Aspinal of London ZA K UL PA Card holder, £575 William & Son Ph o t o g ra p h b y Purse, £225 Paul Smith £220 for 100ml Armani Privé BOLD STROKES Apply a painterly dash of red and black Sticker, £45 Anya Hindmarch Styled by CHARLOTTE DAVEY Pen, £220 Asprey SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS Pen, £880 Hermès Lipstick, £19.50 Laura Mercier Keyring, £180 Bottega Veneta £1,950 Prada DOUBLE LIFE In our digitally driven age, finding the free time for creative expression can be difficult. But could another job be the answer? Helen Kirwan-Taylor explores the benefits of having a portfolio of careers A s I type this, I note with resignation that I have once again dripped red acrylic paint across my keyboard. This sort of thing never happened before I decided to embark on a new life as a ‘co-careerist’ – a person who does more than one thing for a living. For the past two years, I have divided my time between journalism and multimedia art. My second career came about by accident. I used to make artworks for friends, then I showed one to an American retailer who said: ‘I want to sell them.’ Subsequently, a gallerist in London suggested we do a show in six months. Had I not experienced years of working to tight deadlines under extreme pressure, I could never have done it. I now earn about as much money in my studio as I do at my desk. And I am, of course, not alone. Today, more than a million people in Britain have more than one job. Many are obliged to do so to pay the bills; for others like me, however, it’s about finding an outlet for personal expression in an increasingly technology-focused world. 86 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 It is not, after all, financial necessity that has inspired Gwyneth Paltrow to add food writer and businesswoman to her CV, driven Angelina Jolie to tie a humanitarian string to her bow, nor, I suspect, induced Yana Peel to become the new director of the Serpentine Gallery, as well as an investor, philanthropist, children’s author and CEO of the debating forum Intelligence Squared. Psychologists call it ‘effort-driven reward’ – the surge of serotonin you feel when admiring a creative task you’ve just completed. ‘Many of us put a passion on hold while moving up in our careers; then you get to middle age and you feel you have to express yourself,’ says Dr www.harpersbazaar.co.uk AT WORK Helen Kirwan-Taylor Henrietta Bowden-Jones, a psychiatrist specialising in addiction, who has recently applied to study for an MA in creative writing. ‘It’s easier for people who have already achieved in one field. They have a sense of accomplishment and, to a certain extent, are allowed to fail.’ In her case, writing her book affords her some muchneeded respite from the reality of her demanding medical career. But there is more to this trend than personal fulfilment. Having several jobs may mean you become better at everything you do. Josephine Fairley, the co-founder of Green & Black’s organic chocolate, is a serial entrepreneur and journalist who is evangelical about the benefits of a portfolio of careers. ‘The solution to one work problem often comes when I’m focused on something different,’ she says. ‘When I took time off, I found I was bored and boring.’ ‘Creativity is combining things that weren’t combined before,’ explains Robert Root-Bernstein, a professor of physiology at Michigan State University (and also an author and a professional artist). ‘Therefore, creativity requires more than one line of expertise.’ He argues that the co-careerist brings the skills from one job to the other, most notably ‘imaging’, ‘abstracting’ and ‘body thinking’ – using sensation and emotions as well as analysis – themes explored in his book Sparks of Genius, written with his wife Michele (a creative-writing PHOTOGRAPHS: TOM CRAIG/TRUNK ARCHIVE, COLIENA RENTMEESTER/TRUNK ARCHIVE, TINA HILLIER, COURTESY OF HELEN KIRWAN-TAYLOR, GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS It’s all about finding an outlet for personal expression in a technologyfocused world and history lecturer, author and haiku poet). Certainly, I find that the more time I spend on my art, the more fluid my writing becomes. The more I experiment in my studio, the more I also experiment with my words. As a journalist, I’m used to everybody wanting to talk to me. As an artist, I have to make four calls for one that is returned. Consequently, I’ve grown a thicker skin and have more tenacity. When writing gets stressful, I dream of my studio. When an artwork isn’t turning out as I want it to, I seek solace at my computer. Journalism can be done on demand; art requires the right mindset. I find that in both sides of my life, I no longer procrastinate (because that means going back to the other job, and nothing focuses the mind more than having a paying client). Of course, there are sacrifices to be made. I structure my life to be up early, so that requires less socialising, and I work weekends and holidays. I stop if I’m tired, but that rarely happens: switching worlds makes each one feel fresh and new. Left: Angelina Jolie. Right: ‘&’, an artwork by Helen Kirwan-Taylor loosely based on Gustav Klimt’s ‘The Kiss’ SMART THINKING JO GLYNN-SMITH’S essential advice for a stylish business life £298 J Crew £220 Longchamp £395 Anya Hindmarch THE SHOES For dashing around town, invest in some smart trainers and avoid those inelegant moments when changing from heels to flats in the street. www.harpersbazaar.co.uk THE NOTEBOOK Even in this digital age, there is a satisfaction to writing down lists or inspirational thoughts in a proper notebook. THE BAG Not just a beautiful accessory of the perfect size, Aspinal’s Editor bag is equipped with an inbuilt mobile-phone-charging function and the new Aspinal Tile Tracker, which allows you to track your bag via your mobile for added security. THE COAT There’s good reason why the trench-coat is such a classic for work: it’s lightweight, waterproof and goes with everything. £895 Aspinal of London July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 87 TALKING POINTS PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY KUSAMA ENTERPRISE, OTA FINE ARTS, TOKYO/SINGAPORE AND VICTORIA MIRO LONDON, © YAYOI KUSAMA Edited by HELENA LEE & CATRIONA GRAY Yayoi Kusama’s ‘The Scent of a Flower Garden’ (2015) FOREVER YOUNG The evergreen Yayoi Kusama continues her fascination with the infinite in nature-inspired new works. Plus: Erica Wagner on AS Byatt; Althorp’s literary gathering; and the Masterpiece art fair TALKING POINTS ART ABOUT TIME A London exhibition of new pieces by Yayoi Kusama examines infinity, as her place in the echelons of the art world is finally being aknowledged By CLAIRE WRATHALL hiny, colourful, playful yet meaningful, vibrant with polkadots and plump with pumpkins, the work of the 87-year-old Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama has irresistible and broad appeal. Indeed, if interest in an artist can be gauged by the numbers of people who flock to their exhibitions, Kusama is arguably the most popular artist in the world. In 2014, more than two million people in Latin America alone queued for her retrospective ‘Infinite Obsession’, camping out overnight in Mexico City to be certain of seeing her installations. Part of Kusama’s legend is fuelled by the dramatic details of her life: she famously renounced her avantgarde existence in 1960s New York to return to Japan in 1973, eventually admitting herself to a Tokyo psychiatric clinic, the better to manage the anxiety and depression that have plagued S 90 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 her since childhood. She has lived in the clinic for nearly 40 years. Kusama is herself something of a work of art, her diminutive figure instantly recognisable in photographs or in crowds by her synthetic vermilion Louise Brooks bob, carmine lipstick and A-line polka-dot dresses. Even her wheelchair sports dots. (The dots, she has said, are a way of ‘translating the obsessional images… the products of neurosis and therefore inextricably connected with my disease’.) But then, self-image and fashion have long been part of her practice. Even by the permissive standards of 1960s New York, the dresses she designed (and wore) there were shocking, with circular cut-outs positioned to reveal the wearer’s breasts and rear. Not so the collection she created for Louis Vuitton in 2012, which ran to drop-waisted dresses, cropped trousers, classic trench-coats, www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY KUSAMA ENTERPRISE, OTA FINE ARTS, TOKYO/SINGAPORE AND VICTORIA MIRO LONDON, © YAYOI KUSAMA, PHOTOGRAPHY © NORIKO TAKASUGI Above: the artist Yayoi Kusama at the age of 10 in 1939. Right: her ‘The Festival Day’ (2015) silk squares and bags, all covered with irregular polka-dots. The seeds of Kusama’s fascinating career trajectory were sown when, in her twenties, she came across the work of Georgia O’Keeffe. The American artist’s luscious, highly stylised floral paintings were a revelation. ‘I’d been dreaming of going to America and escaping my family,’ she tells me by email from the clinic in Tokyo. (Her English is fluent, but she is uncomfortable speaking it.) ‘So I wrote to her. And miraculously, she responded with great kindness. Her letter gave me the courage I needed to leave.’ As a young woman in New York, she thrived and innovated, experimenting with silkscreen wallpapers three years before Andy Warhol’s Cow Wallpaper (Warhol had come to the opening of her 1963 show, ‘One Thousand Boats’, and told her he loved it); and exhibiting her soft sculptures ahead of Claes Oldenburg’s. The first of her discombobulating Infinity Mirrored Rooms also predated Lucas Samaras’ mirrored Room No 2, which was hailed as ground-breaking. ‘There has finally been a realisation that, arthistorically, she is an incredibly important figure,’ says her friend Glenn Scott Wright, the co-director of the Victoria Miro gallery. ‘The annoying thing for her was that the artists she influenced were men; they got taken up by the art world, and she didn’t.’ Fast-forward several decades, and after a period of relative obscurity, Kusama was invited to represent Japan at the 1993 Venice Biennale. She created another mirrored room filled with pumpkin sculptures, in which she resided, dressed as a magician. The motif of the pumpkin continues to fascinate her. ‘My love of them stretches back to when I was a little child’, she says. She grew up during World War II, when pumpkins were the principal food on which her family subsisted. ‘I have always found them to be such tender things to touch and so wonderfully humorous, humble and appealing. They have a warm feeling and human-like quality in their form. They make me feel happy. They are my friends. And I will always celebrate them in paintings and sculptures.’ The latest iteration of her pumpkin sculptures, this time in mirror-finished bronze, are among the never-before-seen works in her new London show, currently on display at both Victoria Miro galleries. ‘I love bronze as a material,’ she adds. ‘Its warmth and endurance are very suited to the character of the pumpkin.’ Mirrors, too, continue to loom large in ‘There has finally been a realisation that, art-historically, she is an incredibly important figure’ Right: her ‘Lights of the Heart’ (2016). Above right: a portrait of Kusama her work. ‘There will be three spellbinding new mirror rooms in my exhibition,’ she says. ‘In the new version, you’ll be able to walk into the space and be surrounded by an infinite field of illuminated pumpkins.’ She has even produced some new paintings, part of an ongoing series she calls ‘My Eternal Soul’. She says her canvases ‘ join all the philosophies of my art: an explosion of ideas that represent my preoccupation with infinity and the search for peace and love that has always been at the heart of my work. I feel my happiness through their vibrant colours; their strength and clarity flood me with energy’. Although she is now in her late eighties, Kusama shows no sign of slowing down. ‘I am an artist. My work is my life. I have so much I want to do [that] I am determined to live until I am 300 years old. Each day I create a new world by making my art. I will never run out of ideas. All I hope to do in the time left is to turn as many of them into concrete forms as possible.’ ‘Yayoi Kusama’ is at Victoria Miro, 16 Wharf Road, London N1, and 14 George Street, London W1 (www.victoria-miro. com), until 30 July. July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 91 TALKING POINTS BEST FOR… CERAMICS ADRIAN SASSOON As well as dealing in antique china, Sassoon also represents leading contemporary ceramicists including Hitomi Hosono and Felicity Aylieff. www.adriansassoon.com BEST FOR… SCULPTURE BASED UPON ART & ANTIQUES Founded in 2004 by twin brothers Ian and Richard Abell, this London-based studio has become celebrated for its large-scale metallic artworks. www.basedupon.com REAL DEALS For lovers of fine art, antiques and design, the annual Masterpiece London 2016 fair is an unmissable treat, whether you’re seeking a piece of modern jewellery or classical sculpture. Although it attracts a strong contingent of international exhibitors, the British dealers have plenty of treasures to catch the eye. CG Masterpiece London 2016 (www.masterpiece fair.com) runs from 30 June to 6 July at the Royal Hospital Chelsea. BEST FOR… FURNITURE ROSE UNIACKE The queen of serene interiors hosts a curated selection of 20th-century antiques to grace any home. www.roseuniacke.com BEST FOR… PAINTINGS DICKINSON From Van Goghs to Renoirs, this fine-art dealer has a varied but first-rate selection of canvases. www.simondickinson.com 92 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 BEST FOR… JEWELLERY SYMBOLIC & CHASE Be it a Cartier ladybird brooch or a lovebird diamond ring from Van Cleef & Arpels, each of Symbolic & Chase’s vintage gems is utterly charming. www.symbolicchase.com Parkland on the Althorp estate PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY ADRIAN SASSOON LONDON, DICKINSON, SYMBOLIC & CHASE, ROSE UNIACKE, BASED UPON, SOPHIE CARRÉ, HARRY CORY WRIGHT. A DISTANT LANDSCAPE – BLUE & WHITE MONUMENTAL VASE (2014) BY FELICITY AYLIEFF. THE TALE OF THE KANGAROO AND THE DINGO (2014) BY ROBIN BEST. STILL LIFE WITH BOOKS AND BIRD (2014) BY FELICITY AYLIEFF. TURQUOISE AND MAGENTA BY NATASHA DAINTRY (2014). MISS ALICE VASE (2015) BY KATE MALONE. A YELLOW GOLD, SILVER, ENAMEL, RUBY AND DIAMOND BUTTERFLY BROOCH (C 1900). A GEM-SET AND DIAMOND FALCON STICKPIN C 1800. A CARTIER CORAL, DIAMOND AND BLACK LACQUER LADYBIRD BROOCH (1970S). AU BORD DE L’EAU (1885) BY PIERRE-AUGUSTE RENOIR. ITALIAN GLOBE CHANDELIER ITALY (C 1950). MOULIN DE LA GALETTE (1887) BY VINCENT VAN GOGH, RIBBON BAR (2012) BY BASED UPON BOOKS T But other tales remain intangible, his summer heralds the 13th or are still unfolding here; perhaps in annual Althorp Literary the minds of those authors that come Festival, and although I to speak at the festival, or in their confess to being superstitious by spontaneous conversations with nature, the prospect of returning to such a mag ical place still fills me Whether you seek convivial discussion ardent readers and fellow writers. As for myself – I always appreciate the with delight. It is the fourth year or moments of tranquillity, the Althorp chance to be alone for a time, beside that Harper’s Bazaar has partnered the lake that encircles the small island with the festival, though I had expeLiterary Festival is a tonic for the soul where Diana, Princess of Wales, rienced the marvels of Althorp on By JUSTINE PICARDIE was buried, returned to her childseveral occasions before then, as an hood home at last after her death in author and a guest. 1997. Her grave is hidden by trees The memory of my first visit still and the dark water; mysterious, unknowable. It is in remains vivid: the sight of a great stately home these quiet moments that I find myself thinking of my coming into view, as the long drive curved through own sister, who died three weeks after Diana; and of swathes of green parkland. Inside the house, a grand the incomprehensible catastrophes that led to their high-ceilinged hall, hung with 18th-century equine deaths; and of what it means to lose a sibling; and of paintings; beyond, an imposing oak staircase leading coincidence and tragedy and fate… up to a Tudor panelled picture gallery and a regal Yet whenever I walk away from the lake, it is not array of portraits. But aside from the visible treasures with the shadow of foreboding, but of hope – beck– exquisite art, delicate china and antique furniture; oning towards the welcoming house and warm a library filled with rare and beguiling books; a conversations; towards convivial experiences, and a corridor lined with marble busts of Roman emperors – there is also a tantalising sense of the stories contained within these renewed faith that maybe, in these precious moments to come, the walls. Some have already been told, most notably by Charles opening lines of a different story might just begin to emerge… Spencer, the 9th Earl, the founder of the literary festival and himself Justine Picardie will be speaking at the Althorp Literary Festival on Friday a distinguished writer and historian. 1 July at 4pm. Visit www.spencerofalthorp.com for details and to book. SPIRIT OF THE PLACE A WOMAN OF TASTE This month, English Heritage unveils a blue plaque on the front of Elizabeth David’s Chelsea home – the first time that the accolade has been awarded to a food writer. David found fame by bringing the flavours of Provence to post-war Britain and, in 1949, also began writing regularly for Harper’s Bazaar. Her column’s advice on packing the perfect picnic still rings true today: ‘The fare should be simple, with a fresh and countrified air. Such elegant foods as foie gras seem to lose their fine lustre when eaten out of doors, whereas the rustic charms of black olives and crusty French bread find their natural affinities upon hillside and seashore.’ CG www.harpersbazaar.co.uk July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 93 Left: wallpaper by William Morris from 1889. Below: fabric by Mariano Fortuny BOOKS THE ART OF CR AFT The cover of AS Byatt’s 2009 novel The Children’s Book is a work of art in itself. The hardcover shimmers blue, rich as lapis; and reproduced on this background is an image of a Lalique brooch, jewelled and By ERICA WAGNER ornate. A dragonfly stretches its wings, above the title and below the author’s name; or at least it looks like a dragonfly at first glance. Peer more closely, however, and you’ll see a woman’s head where the insect’s should be, the face and full breasts gleaming turquoise. From the slender body sprout golden claws, like the talons of an eagle, and the blue-green wings shimmer with gold tracery, startlingly lifelike. And the novel begins in the V&A – or what would become the V&A, because in 1895, at the book’s outset, the institution was still called the South Kensington Museum – founded to inspire British craftsmen and designers. The Children’s Book, like so much of the author’s work, is intimately linked with the idea of craft and craftsmanship; of what can be made when we really take the time to look at the world. And so it should come as no surprise that Byatt’s latest offering is a slender but deliciously rich meditation on two artists who blurred the boundary between art and craft, and whose patterns and designs were intimately linked with both history and the natural world. Peacock & Vine finds Byatt reflecting on the life and work of the English artist William Morris (1834–1896) and the innovative Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny (1871–1949). The book is a gift to any lover of the author’s work because it is, in part, a Above and right: details from the Valentino Haute Couture S/S 16 collection 94 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHS: © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON, PRIVATE COLLECTION/ DE AGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES, GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY, IMAXTREE In her latest work, AS Byatt shines the spotlight on two 19th-century creative greats TALKING POINTS Clockwise from below left: Mariano Fortuny. One of his fabric prints. Morris. His chrysanthemum wallpaper revelation of her thinking process: how one moment of reflection leads to another; how seemingly eccentric connections can be strengthened and supported by close consideration and close observation. Byatt sees the world as few others are able to. Towards the end of the book, she describes watching visitors pass through an exhibition of Monet’s paintings of Rouen Cathedral, only glancing briefly at each canvas as if they could then be ticked off a list. Byatt is startled by this behaviour. By contrast, she sat on a bench in front of the paintings, trying to take in every detail of colour and shade. ‘It is not possible to remember whole cathedrals, only impressions. But it is exciting to try.’ Indeed it is, if you are willing to take the time to do so, and not only when you are strolling through a gallery. The work of these artists still resonates in the present day: the fluid, luxurious designs of the Valentino Haute Couture spring/summer 16 collection were inspired by the work of Fortuny. Very much more than a fashion designer, he was also a pioneer in photography and lighting design. And Morris was a polymath who, when he wasn’t designing textiles, was campaigning for socialism or translating Icelandic sagas. Both were interested not simply in individual objects, but in creating a whole world. Each took patterns from nature and transformed them: feathers, flowers, the ripe swell of a pomegranate, that most symbolic of fruits. I thought of the opening of Byatt’s novel Babel Tower, when a character imagines writing a poem about a pomegranate: ‘He thinks of Persephone as he used to imagine her when he was a boy, a young white girl in a dark cavern, before a black table, with a gold plate containing a heap of seeds. He had supposed the six seeds she ate were dry seeds, when he was a boy and had never seen a pomegranate. Her head is bowed, her hair is pale gold. She knows she should not eat, and eats.’ Babel Tower was published a few years before the turn of the century, but part of the pleasure of reading this wonderful author is to see her looping back to the images that have fascinated her, which will always fascinate her. The full name of the heroine of Babel Tower and the three other novels that make up the Frederica Quartet – The Virgin in the Garden, Still Life and A Whistling Woman – is Frederica Potter; and there’s a lot in that surname. Byatt has said of herself that she is a ‘Northern puritan by upbringing’, descended from generations of potters in the Five Towns. Craftsmanship is in her blood. When I first became enraptured by her work at university, it was this attention to craft, to making, that so captivated me. You can’t read her work and slide past it, as those gallery-goers did when they skated past Monet. Art is always an invitation to pay attention. As a writer, I have found that if getting older has one advantage (and actually, you know, there are many), it is that I am far more willing to take the time to be attentive, to really look. There is beauty in the work of William Morris and Mariano Fortuny, to be sure – but there is beauty all around us too, all the time. ‘Peacock & Vine’ by AS Byatt (14.99, Chatto & Windus) is published on 7 July. DESIGN ANIMAL MAGIC To mark the 150th anniversary of Beatrix Potter’s birth, Penguin is releasing five new editions of the author’s much-loved stories (£6.99). Each has a cover created by a contemporary designer, from Orla Kiely’s hedgehog pattern for The Tale of Mrs Tiggy-Winkle to the floral-print reworking of Squirrel Nutkin by the duo behind Preen. CG www.harpersbazaar.co.uk July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 95 DADDY COOL Kit de Waal, the author of the highly anticipated debut novel My Name is Leon, recalls how her dapper father informed her own fashion sense My first notions of style came from my father. He was six feet four, handsome and athletic. Every West Indian man had a nickname and to his friends, my father was ‘Slender’. He loved clothes. Although we had little money, he would buy ‘suit lengths’ in mohair and fine wool and leather-soled Chelsea boots or dress shoes; when he died, we found drawers and cupboards of silk ties and matching handkerchiefs. He never went out anywhere. There were very few places in the 1960s where a black man could take his white wife. So he had his suits tailored for their style and beauty. He worked all his life as a bus driver, which is where he met my mother, an Irish conductress as small and neat as he was tall. She said that when she met him he reminded her of the film star Harry Belafonte. Even going to work was an opportunity for my father to look good. Some of my first memories are of being in the kitchen while my father pressed his bus uniform before his shift. He would stand over the ironing board and arrange his navy serge trousers under a sheet of thick, brown paper. In his massive hand, the iron looked like a toy. He would turn the dial to maximum and plant it down carefully, watching the paper curl at the edges. The smell of scorching paper filled the room. The trousers tamed, my father would start on his jacket; a jacket was never to be pressed. It was coaxed into obedience with steam ART Natasha Law’s ‘Tie Back in Gray’ (2014) Left, from top: Kit de Waal aged about four. Her father from a constantly boiling kettle. Holding it high over the stove, my father brushed the cloth with his asbestos hands, whirring it around like he had a motor for a wrist, smoothing the front, tugging the back, folding back the lapels again and again. After 10 minutes in his hands, the thing looked new. He always steam-ironed his shirts and wore a Windsor knot in his tie. It would often take my father an hour to leave the house, a straight parting in the left side of his hair, dampened with Bay rum. If he took us anywhere he liked for us all to dress up. We wore Crimplene dresses in pale blue, our hair scraped back into a bun. My brother would wear a dickie bow and a blazer. Although my Irish grandmother never got on with my father, she was similarly stylish. I remember her pale-green twin-sets and tweed skirts. She had her hair set regularly, and on special occasions would wear a long chiffon skirt and pearls. I have a photograph of her with my grandfather, sitting on their sofa looking very debonair; she must have been 75 at the time. When I left home at 16, I lived the life of a hippie with the attendant cheesecloth smocks, jeans and sandals. There’s so much of the 1970s in today’s fashion that I often lament getting rid of some of the beautiful stuff I had then: suede skirts, mohair jumpers, platform shoes. These days, I buy a lot from COS and Toast, and every now and again an expensive handbag, but I also have my father’s habit of buying clothes and ‘keeping them for best’. Of course, ‘best’ never comes, or comes so late that the thing is dated by the time I put it on. It’s what I’m working on at the moment: seizing the day – or at the very least, the day dress. ‘My Name is Leon’ by Kit de Waal (£12.99, Viking) is published on 2 June. LAW UNTO HERSELF Natasha Law is known for her bold depictions of the female form, but her ambition is to make you overlook her subject matter completely. ‘What I really want is for your eye to be drawn to the colours, so you don’t see the figure,’ she says. Many of her paintings depict young women in the act of undressing: it’s the shapes made in these ‘very banal or awkward moments’ rather than the eroticism that attracts Law. ‘Women possibly spend more time faced with other women’s bodies than they do their own,’ she observes. ‘The female form is a subject that I’m familiar with from the inside and outside – it’s me, but it’s equally that “other”.’ Based in Peckham, Law juggles her time between work and family. Her three children are all fledging creatives, and given that their father is a scriptwriter and their uncle is Jude Law, they have probably inherited plenty of talent. ‘I’ve tried to open their eyes to other options,’ she says, ‘but ultimately you want them to do what makes them happy. And my job certainly brings me that.’ CG ‘Natasha Law’ is at Eleven Fine Art (www.elevenfineart.com) from 24 June to 27 August. www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF KIT DE WAAL, COURTESY OF ELEVEN, LONDON (WWW.ELEVENFINEART.COM), GETTY IMAGES, ALAMY, KAT PISIOLEK AND GRAHAM WALSER/HEARST STUDIOS. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. OPPOSITE: BACKGROUND FABRIC, £98/1.5M SHEET, LANGTON TEXTILES BOOKS TALKING POINTS Roller, £15; applicator, £22, both The Painted House Rug, from a selection Christopher Farr Cushion, £59.95 The Charleston Shop Paint in Charleston, £39.50 for 2.5 litres Farrow & Ball £950 Susan Osbourne Books, £1,200 for 29 Lorfords Candlestick, £315 Paul Young at Online Ceramics Shade, £45; base, £110, both Cressida Bell INTERIORS Statuary head, £450 Lorfords Wardrobe, about £1,400 L&K Antiques £695 Graham and Green DO THE CHARLESTON Celebrate a century of the Bloomsbury Group’s unique country-house style Plate, £60; saucer (sold with cup), £38, both Bloomsbury Ceramics Compiled by SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD and MARISSA BOURKE £600 The French House From £9 each Neptune Bespoke cushions, from £48 each Cabbages & Roses From a selection Frost Antiques Plates, £8 each Anthropologie Caddies, £550 each by Claudia Rankin at Wilson Stephens & Jones HOROSCOPES The future revealed: your essential guide to JULY By PETER WATSON CANCER CAPRICORN 22 June – 23 July 22 December – 20 January A secret ambition may soon become a reality. Don’t feel guilty that you haven’t discussed it with those closest to you. You shouldn’t sacrifice the chance to broaden your horizons because you’re afraid of being labelled a deserter. No one has the right to hold you back. MOTTO OF THE MONTH You wouldn’t worry what people think of you if you knew how rarely they do it. Uncertainty about joint financial or business deals might have scared you off. But that’s no reason to steer clear. Find out if the situation has improved and whether all has been clarified. Proceed with cautious optimism, provided everything appears to add up. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Attitude is that little thing that makes a huge difference. LEO AQUARIUS 24 July – 23 August 21 January – 19 February Fears about income, work or wellbeing shouldn’t dominate. Jupiter’s tie-up with Mercury will remind you that many of your talents or resources are overlooked. If an exciting new challenge arises, never doubt you’ll have access to what’s required to make a success of it. MOTTO OF THE MONTH With one drop of ink, you can make the world think. Some others may ridicule your means of getting onerous tasks out of the way. But with a Sun-Neptune link on your side, you’ll happily apply unconventional, creative techniques to areas that have been left untended for too long. Ultimately you will be the winner. Will you care what anybody else thinks or says? Absolutely not. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Better untaught than ill-taught. VIRGO PISCES 24 August – 23 September 20 February – 20 March Others may admire your unusual take on property or financial matters. But will they back you up if things go awry? Ensure your approach won’t require huge risks. You’ll be excited at the prospect of doing something different. But what are the potential costs? MOTTO OF THE MONTH Why worry if you’re not understood? It’s far worse not to be understanding. The care and attention you give to one or two special individuals is rewarded a thousand-fold. Even so, you sometimes feel drained of the energy and enthusiasm required for you to engage in something novel and inspiring. Don’t be afraid to admit that you would like – and need – some time for yourself. It’s your right. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Do not cut down the tree that gives you shade. LIBRA ARIES 24 September – 23 October 21 March – 20 April Do you allow your private life and your everyday responsibilities to clash rather too often? In mid-July, with the Sun confronting Uranus, you might be forced to make a hard and fast decision between your sense of duty and something precious you’ve craved for a while. Refuse to feel guilty if, for once, you pamper yourself. MOTTO OF THE MONTH A steady income is often the way to mediocrity. Unexpected news mustn’t rock your home and family life entirely. As you adjust to the enforced changes involved, try to look and feel quite unfazed by it all. One or two less-worldly individuals will model their behaviour on yours. If you can put on a brave front till things settle down, everyone will benefit. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Charity sees the need, not the cause. SCORPIO TAURUS 24 October – 22 November 21 April – 21 May Having been distracted from your career path or some fairly heavy commitments for a while, you might soon feel the need to get back in the driving seat. Although certain others will be glad of your interest and support, they mustn’t be left feeling threatened by your reappearance. Ease your way in slowly and respectfully. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Virtue is not knowing but doing. People asking endless questions about your long-term plans should be put in their place. But don’t feel you must respond in a rude or unpleasant way. Find subtle means of discouraging them from interfering in areas that are none of their business. One particular topic really mustn’t be discussed openly. You’ll soon find out why. MOTTO OF THE MONTH An eye for an eye will make the world go blind. SAGITTARIUS GEMINI 23 November – 21 December 22 May – 21 June Why feel obliged to respond to people demanding financial or emotional support? You’d obviously help if you felt their needs were genuine. But you’ll wonder whether they’re capable of helping themselves. Don’t be afraid to focus on yourself for a change. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Tortoises get nowhere until they stick out their necks. Refuse to allow bills or bank accounts to come between you and those close to you. Pluto’s run-in with Venus could raise questions or unearth awkward facts and figures. You’ll have a tendency to overreact. You must remember that your relationships mean a great deal to you. Mischief-makers should be given short shrift. MOTTO OF THE MONTH Before you leap high, you must take a long run. For an in-depth personal reading, visit www.harpersbazaar.co.uk. 98 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk FR E E NE XT MONTH WITH 4 L’OCCITANE GIFTS TO COLLECT WORTH PHOTOGRAPHS: KAT PISIOLEK/HEARST STUDIOS, GETTY IMAGES. FREE GIFT AVAILABLE WITH NEWSSTAND COPIES ONLY a total of £32 Receive an exclusive L’Occitane beauty product ONLY WITH THE AUGUST ISSUE Choose your favourite travel-size shower oil, face cream, scent or hand cream – or collect all four harpers 2016 z a a r. c o. JULY uk w. ba ww 21ST-CENTURY BRITANNIAS The Game of Thrones actress Emilia Clarke swaps dragons and conquest for diamonds and couture; fashion and literature elide as Karen Elson summons the spirit of Daphne du Maurier; and we meet five women at the heart of Tate Modern’s renaissance SWEPT AWAY Emilia Clarke is riding the crest of a wave of success in Game of Thrones, and now she is also set to shine in a film adaptation of the British bestseller Me Before You. Here, she talks to the novel’s author Jojo Moyes about fame, feminism, wigs and wonderment… PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID SLIJPER STYLED BY LEITH CLARK All clothes and jewellery throughout, to order, Christian Dior Haute Couture, except where stated E Three scenes with Emilia Clarke SCENE 1 The first time I talk to Emilia Clarke is at Pinewood Studios, where we have just begun shooting the film of my book, Me Before You. She is a tiny, gorgeous presence, fuelling her way through the long days with everpresent flasks of water with strawberries, cucumber, mint. Clarke is rigorous about staying in shape, and in a break between scenes we lunge and squat our way around the lot while chatting (mine are comical enough that a producer’s assistant takes pictures from behind). Emilia’s working day started some time around 5.30am. As we wrap that evening, her personal trainer is waiting to do another hour with her. There may have been rehearsals for the following day’s scenes after that. Throughout all this, she will smile. By the end of the shoot, in June, most of the production team will be slightly in love with her. DAVID SLIJPER THIS PAGE: gold, diamond, tourmaline and emerald earrings; pink gold, diamond, sapphire and tourmaline bracelet, both Dior Joaillerie. OPPOSITE: pink gold and diamond earrings, from a selection, Dior. Pink gold, diamond and sapphire ring, Dior Joaillerie DAVID SLIJPER SCENE 2 Paris. Our last day of filming. Emilia has been diagnosed with a fractured hip, following a treadmill accident that resulted in weeks of intense pain. One of our final scenes involves her reading a letter in a café, weeping, then walking across Parisian cobbles in five-inch heels. She completes each take beautifully, but every time the word ‘cut’ echoes across the Place Dauphine, her face drains of colour and the crew rush over with crutches. The pain is such, she tells me later, that it makes her want to throw up. By the end of the day, when we exchange gifts and tears, she can no longer stand, and receives hers sitting on a kerb. Hours later, she will fly off to promote the Schwarzenegger blockbuster Terminator Genisys, in which she plays the female lead. She will complete that worldwide tour on crutches, immaculately made up, the smile in place. ‘Nothing grinds my gears like people not turning up or not being ready to work,’ she says. ‘The show must go on. This is ingrained in me.’ Emilia Clarke is old-school. Louisa Clark, the heroine of Me Before You, is a quirky girl from a small town, who is given the job of helping care for Will Traynor, an angry, paralysed man, and manages to change his mind-set – and her own life – in the process. The story is romantic, funny and sad, and in casting the film, MGM wanted someone who could make an audience laugh and cry; an ordinary girl who manages to convey something extraordinary. I had assumed the actress who played Daenerys – the Khaleesi – in HBO’s Game of Thrones would be too glacial, too poised, too blonde (it turns out it’s a $7,000 wig). But Clarke, in person, is quite different: a brunette with a palpable warmth and a megawatt smile, a girl who swears like a trooper and has a keen sense of the absurd. She has that rare ability to look quite ordinary one moment, and incandescent the next. After an endless audition process, the studio asked me to rate my top three Louisas. I had to tell them that I only had one. I had never pictured Louisa Clark fully in my head as I wrote her, but I did now. Hollywood is littered with embittered writers complaining that their characters are nothing like the people on screen. I just sat back in awe every day and watched as Louisa, with what Will calls her ‘bad jokes and your ridiculous clothes and your complete inability to ever hide a single thing you felt’, appeared in vivid Technicolor in front of me. ‘Lou is definitely the character closest to me in real life,’ says Clarke, sitting in a Los Angeles café so low-key I’m embarrassed to submit expenses. Our table outside is an upturned crate. They do not take reservations. The servers do not register the identity of the brunette in the cream jumper. ‘I spent my time on Game of Thrones growing into an adult, but Louisa shows my more bright-eyed and bushy-tailed side. On a personal level, it’s been really nice to allow myself to just be me, and she is a heightened version of that. I’m not Khaleesi. I stoop!’ (she doesn’t). Later, she will joke that it’s a pleasure to finally play a part where nobody is trying to kill her. Emilia Clarke grew up with her brother Ben in Berkshire; her father is a theatre sound engineer, her mother a businesswoman who runs marketing teams for large global consulting companies. From her parents, she inherited her work ethic, as well as an understanding that everyone on a stage set is equal. She describes her family as close, and as her biggest advocates. Game of Thrones has made her famous, yet thanks to the wig, she’s preserved an ongoing level of anonymity. But roles as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s on Broadway, in the films Dom Hemingway with Jude Law and Terminator Genisys, and as the face of Dior’s Rose des Vents jewellery collection – in addition to growing tabloid interest – mean that privacy is disappearing fast. The trailer for Me Before You was released in February. Within two weeks, it had notched up over 60 million views. More than half the comments on her Instagram feed, she noted, were now about her as Louisa Clark. ‘The joy of that wig is that I’ve had years to come to terms with where I’m at. It’s easier to handle because of it. You’re like, “OK, I feel comfortable, everyone’s nice. I’m not surrounded by paparazzi”,’ she says. (In fact, I register the exact moment the man at the counter realises who he’s been talking to. Five minutes after we sit down at our crate with our salads, a table is magically found.) Working on a film set can be notoriously tricky: everyone has stories of clashing egos, badly behaved stars (and, yes, writers). But even grizzled, veteran crewmembers observed what a happy production Me Before You was. Perhaps it was down to the director Thea Sharrock, who hails from theatre and is collaborative rather than dictatorial, but it was unquestionably helped by the fact that Clarke and Sam Claflin (Finnick from The Hunger Games; Alistair Ryle in The Riot Club), who plays the male lead Will Traynor, plainly loved working together. It was not unusual to see the two of them skidding around the set on Will’s electric wheelchair, or pranking each other in the trailers. For a weepie about a man who doesn’t want to live, there was an awful lot of laughter. ‘These movies happen once in a blue moon. Lou has this quote, “This has been the best six months of my entire life.” That was true for me,’ Emilia says. ‘Our crew had such a giggle. Everyone just got on. Thea is an absolute dreamboat. She’s an actor’s director and, let me tell you, they are few and far between.’ ‘She brought a level of professionalism and total dedication to work every day, but never at the expense of fun,’ Sharrock says of Emilia. ‘She was never afraid of hard work, always wanted to be Game of Thrones has made her famous, yet thanks to the $7,000 wig, she’s preserved an ongoing level of anonymity DAVID SLIJPER Pink gold and diamond earrings; matching ring; white gold, diamond, garnet and emerald ring, all Dior Joaillerie DAVID SLIJPER pushed further than she thought she could go. She gave herself entirely to the part of Lou, so much so it was hard sometimes to distinguish Clark from Clarke.’ Me Before You is a female-led film; unusually for a Hollywoodbacked production, it has a female director, female writer and three female producers. After the testosterone-fuelled sets of Terminator Genisys and Game of Thrones (which has been repeatedly criticised for scenes of sexual violence against women), this was a new experience for the actress. ‘I’m normally surrounded by dudes. Doing Me Before You meant I didn’t have to be continually proving myself in a man’s world, having to try and force people to listen to me. I’ve got a really strong mum. I was brought up thinking that men and women are equal. It’s only as I’ve got older that I’ve been like: “Mum! What the f…? Why are they treating me differently because I’ve got a pair of tits?”’ I am reminded of a time on set when I happened to tell her my daughter was having to deal with sexist behaviour for the first time. A few days later, I was handed a bag containing a designer dress and a leather bag that Emilia had brought in for her. ‘This sounds awfully Oprah Winfrey, but I can’t be having a good time unless I feel other people are having a good time,’ she says. ‘A life lived in isolation is not a life lived.’ For several years, she has had a peripatetic life, flitting between the UK and LA. ‘I came out [to LA] in January with my best friend and only meant to stay a month but I’m still here.’ She is based in hipster Venice, rather than Beverly Hills, which she jokingly refers to as ‘Beverly Hells On Earth’. ‘There are particular pockets of LA where you have to be “on” all the time,’ she says. ‘A friend says it’s like a smog hangs over LA – a smog of anxiety and desperation and fear,’ though she says learning to love the City of Dreams has been good for her confidence. ‘California living is easy-breezy. You’re not up against the weather or people’s slightly pessimistic attitudes. When you sift through all the Botox and glamour, you can find a relaxed California vibe. It’s lovely.’ Her career – and geography – may be taking her into a rarefied space, where it’s harder to work out which friends are real and where old friends struggle to understand a new reality. I tell her about a podcast in which the Oscar-winning actress Julianne Moore discusses the transient nature of film relationships. Her theory is that if you manage to take one friendship away from a production it is unusual. Clarke agrees. ‘That’s why this movie was so exceptional. Thea will be godmother to my children. Fact. And Sam and I have known each other for a while. So we will always know each other. ‘Sometimes you get really close to someone but you know you won’t see each other after the movie is done – “red carpet buddies”. That can be a big thing to come up against, because you constantly have to check in with your friends at home. They’re all, “But you’re off living the dream”, and I say, “No I’m not”. Actually everyone else has got a life, and you have to put your life on hold to make a movie.’ Honesty, she says, is the key. ‘We’ve been through it. If I sense that they’re starting to get a bit funny about [her success], I’ll be hugely honest. Call it First World Problems or Holly-problems. Or whatever. But I’ve fought them on it, and been like “Oi. Nothing’s changed.”’ The smartest thing, she believes, is bringing them along on the journey. Hence, she is writing a script with her best friend Lola. ‘You take them to [showbusiness events] and they’re not cynical, they’re like, “Wow! This is amazing!”, and you see these things with fresh eyes. They’re a touchstone. It’s healthy.’ SCENE 3 The Lancôme pre-Baftas dinner in February; Emilia is there accompanied by Thea Sharrock. During the evening, I find myself shielding her from male attention. It might be because of the smile, or her diminutive size, but men approach Emilia a lot. She tells me about a household name she had to firmly rebuff the previous evening (I’ll save his blushes, and won’t mention who). Later that night, she will be enthusiastically serenaded, gospel-style, by another. ‘I don’t get hit on a lot,’ she insists. ‘Last year I could have been wearing a sandwich board and ringing a bell and nobody would have noticed!’ I glance at the men at the next table who have given up trying not to stare, and I find that hard to believe. As I leave, a man approaches and asks for a picture ‘for my son. He’s a huge Game of Thrones fan’. I lose count of how many times this happens. She keeps smiling, even as his hand slides around her shoulder. I wonder how many of these sons actually exist. I remember feeling quite glad she wasn’t on her own. Clarke talks a lot about the importance of keeping family and friends close. A nomadic lifestyle – and a prodigious work rate – makes it hard to hold down a relationship. She split from the comedian Seth MacFarlane in 2013. Last year, she says, was ‘tough’, but she is dating again ‘and every choice I make is about freedom. And fun’. For now, she is enjoying what she calls ‘a good day’ in her career, and trying to build in some time to enjoy herself after a couple of whirlwind years. A romantic comedy looms this summer, as well as a gritty role in a lower-budget movie. As perhaps befits someone whose father has witnessed the trajectory of hundreds of acting careers, and believes the most valuable lines an actor can learn are: ‘Do you want fries with that?’, she says she has learned to take success day by day. ‘It will go away, without a shadow of a doubt. Everyone goes in peaks and troughs. The balance is having the confidence to go “OK, I’m going to take that good thing, and try and believe two per cent of it and just be in that moment. Just being present, instead of looking over your shoulder.”’ Emilia laughs. ‘For now I’m in a lovely spot.’ ‘Me Before You’ is in cinemas nationwide from 3 June. Me Before You has a female director, writer and producers – a new experience after the testosterone of Game of Thrones See Stockists for details. by Kevindress, Ryan at Art Hairjacquard Silk & Commerce, using Unite to order, Giles Deacon Beach Day Texturizing Spray. Couture. Leather and velvet Make-up byaMonika Blunder boots, from selection, for Smashbox at the White Wall Marco di Vincenzo. Group. Manicure gold, diamond andby Nettie Davisring, at the Wall Group. ruby from a selection, SetGrisogono. design by Colin Donahue. De Vintage Production by Jill Roy at metal and paste earrings, 3 StarGillian Productions. £55, Horsup. Metal Stylist’s(worn assistant: Nicole brooch in hair), £7 Deutsch Shaffer Butler & Wilson DAVID SLIJPER TOM CRAIG B E S I DE T H E S I LVE R S E A A timeless summer story on the Sussex shore PHOTOGRAPHS BY AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA STYLED BY CHARLIE HARRINGTON Stretch cotton frilled jacket, £1,545; matching trousers, £475, both Christopher Kane. Studded leather sandals, £295, Church’s THIS PAGE: silk dress, £1,350, Mary Katrantzou. Leather platform slingbacks, £405, Robert Clergerie. OPPOSITE: jacquard top, £440; cotton trousers, £490; tulle dress, £520, all Stella McCartney AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA THIS PAGE: organza cape, £3,500; seersucker shirt, £625; wool twill jumpsuit, £1,095, all Roksanda. Patent sandals, £390, Gianvito Rossi. OPPOSITE: felt dress, £675; cotton long-sleeve tunic, £295; leather loafers, £395, all Mulberry. Jacquard skirt, £830, Chloé AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA Embroidered cotton shirt, £640; cashmere jumper, £1,150; silk and velvet skirt, £4,000; leather shoes, £750, all Dior AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA Silk and cotton top, about £460; matching skirt, about £875; calf-skin boots, about £875, all Céline AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA THIS PAGE: ruffle-front dress, £971, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. OPPOSITE: silk dress, £1,345; silk bra, £395; embellished suede belt, £895, all Alexander McQueen. Suede platform sandals, £490, Stuart Weitzman AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA THIS PAGE: silk dress, £1,380, Paul Smith. Silk and cotton coat, £1,650, Emilia Wickstead. Leather sandals, £405, Robert Clergerie. OPPOSITE: tweeded tulle tunic, £6,335, Chanel AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA THIS PAGE: silk dress, £695, Coach. Silk skirt (worn underneath), £1,850, Ralph Lauren Collection. Linen jacket, £1,350, Hillier Bartley. Leather shoes ( just seen), £125, Russell & Bromley. OPPOSITE: fil coupé dress, £2,660, Erdem. Cotton trench cape with detachable collar, £1,895, Burberry. See Stockists for details. Hair by Kota Suizu at Caren, using Leonor Greyl. Make-up by Ciara O’Shea at LGA Management, using Chanel S/S 2016 and No 5 Body Cream. Production by Kerry Danson at Pure Production. Stylist’s assistant: Lucy Kebbell. Model: Hollie-May at Models 1 AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA THIS PAGE: leather jacket, £1,435; crepe midi-dress, £2,545; brass, palladium and crystal brooch, £985, all Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. Gold and pink-opal earrings, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana. OPPOSITE: velvet and jersey dress, £1,735; cotton hat, £225, both Prada. Ring, model’s own Karen Elson escapes to a landscape inspired by Daphne du Maurier, in ethereal visions of velvet, tweed and silk PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIK MADIGAN HECK STYLED BY LEITH CLARK ERIK MADIGAN HECK THIS PAGE: silk dress, £725, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini. Gold, wood and turquoise ring, £235, Aurélie Bidermann. Necklace, model’s own. OPPOSITE: wool jumper, £1,435; leather skirt, £4,720, both Valentino. Gold and ruby ring (right hand), £2,885; gold, tourmaline and diamond ring, £4,290, both Cassandra Goad. Tights, £22, Tabio. Velvet heels, £395, Rupert Sanderson PHOTOGR APHER THIS PAGE: wool jacket; silk pyjamas; gold and pink-opal earrings; velvet slippers, all from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana. OPPOSITE: nappa leather coat, £2,550, Bally. Silk shirt ( just seen), £305, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini. Tights, £22, Tabio. Velvet heels, £395, Rupert Sanderson ERIK MADIGAN HECK ERIK MADIGAN HECK THIS PAGE: tweed cape, £3,200; matching tunic, £3,950; matching skirt, £2,550, all Chanel. Gold and pink-opal earrings, from a selection, Dolce & Gabbana. Velvet heels, £395, Rupert Sanderson. OPPOSITE: velvet cape, £1,535, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. Lace dress, £3,215, Miu Miu. Gold and ruby ring, £2,885, Cassandra Goad PHOTOGR APHER THIS PAGE: silk and lace top, £2,505; gabardine trousers, £1,130, both Lanvin. Crochet beret, £230, Gucci. Gold and wood earrings, about £335, Aurélie Bidermann. Suede heels, £495, Gianvito Rossi. Cotton socks, £12, Falke. Necklace, model’s own. OPPOSITE: wool jacket, about £1,545; matching trousers, about £570; wool mix jumper, about £935, all Céline. See Stockists for details. Hair by Panos at CLM Hair & Make-up, using Tigi Bed Head. Make-up by Mary Frost at Jed Root, using Chanel S/S 2016 and No 5 Body Cream. Production by Amy Guthrie Production. Stylist’s assistant: Tilly Wheating. Shot on location at Molland Manor House, Kent (www.mollandhouse.co.uk). Model: Karen Elson at Tess Management ERIK MADIGAN HECK THE NEW TATE MODERN STATE OF THE ART Ahead of the launch of the bold reimagining of the iconic London gallery, we celebrate four female artists breaking the mould, and the curator championing their work there BY SOPHIE ELMHIRST PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANÇOIS DISCHINGER RACHEL WHITEREAD Sculptor with her ‘Untitled (Floor), 1994 – 5’ ‘My mother was an artist, and when I was 13, she held a groundbreaking exhibition called Women’s Images of Men at the ICA, put together in our basement in Muswell Hill. I was completely fascinated by it, and felt very proud of the women.’ T July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 141 ▼ ate Modern, on a typical Sunday morning, is somewhere between playschool, rave and church. Toddlers hurl themselves down the wide concrete slope in the Turbine Hall, hipsters prowl the galleries, and the rest admire the collection, take coffee on the sixth floor and watch boats skim past on the Thames. There is none of the usual reverence or hush associated with visiting a museum: it’s full, noisy, steaming with life. ‘It represents access,’ says Daria Martin, an artist whose film, Birds, will form part of the ‘new’ Tate Modern. For the gallery is about to re-launch: in June, a vast extension called the Switch House will open, designed by the original Tate Modern architects Herzog & de Meuron. There will be a full re-hang of the collection and the unveiling of a new area, the Tanks, dedicated to live art and performance. The Tanks were, literally, the oil tanks that fuelled the old Bankside Power Station out of which the original Tate Modern was carved. You can still smell the oil, apparently, but now the space is, according to the artist Marvin Gaye Chetwynd, ‘harsh, concrete and beautiful’. Her film, Hermitos Children, will play there, beanbags laid out for viewers, 142 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHS: FRANÇOIS DISCHINGER, TATE PHOTOGRAPHY, © DARIA MARTIN, © RACHEL WHITEREAD Martin. 3 Marvin Gaye Chetwynd and Joe Scotland in the Tanks, at Tate Modern. 4 Dock (2014) by Phyllida Barlow work will sit in the re-hung Boiler House – the original Tate Modern building – in a room at the end of a sequence of galleries. The piece is monumental, but also collapsing, as her sculptures often are. It looks like a 3-D puzzle, a giant and broken Rubik’s Cube – multi2 coloured and tilted to one side, stairs on the ceiling, walls mid-tumble. It was inspired by a radio programme she heard about Hurricane Katrina, and the account of a man returning to his house in New Orleans to find it, literally, upsidedown. Now, here it is, her own upside-down house, still and massive. For Barlow, it was ‘an astonishing surprise’ to show here, and to be given a room of her own. ‘To have a gallery to itself, and also one at the end of a sequence of galleries. There’s something truly remarkable because it seems exactly the place that that partic3 ular work needed to go.’ Of these four artists, Barlow is the oldest at 72. She remembers, painfully clearly, the moment one of her tutors at the Slade said to her: ‘I won’t be having many conversations with you about making work, because I know by the time you’re 30 you’ll be making jam and having children.” And I said to him: “Well what’s wrong with that?”’ She was delighted by her comeback, and acknowledges that the tutor was right in one sense – she had five children – but drastically and happily wrong in another. Barlow has had one of those careers that seems to get better as she gets older, the recognition for her work only growing with time. She’s proof to a younger generation that the notion of having to sacrifice everything, including yourself, for the sake of your art is both outdated and false. All of the artists featured have children, all balance competing demands on their time, all make bold and innovative work. Whiteread’s sons are 10 and 15, and so far show little interest in art. She doesn’t mind, but notes a difference from her own experience ▼ a sense that the way people watch is just as important as what they’re watching. ‘My vision over the next few years is one that is more international and more diverse,’ says the new director Frances Morris, who has worked at the gallery since it first opened in May 2000. ‘It will expand the traditional stories of 1 modern art and ‘isms’ to encompass different views from around the world. It will focus on how artists work and the way we experience art here and now. It’s an incredible opportunity to tell the story of modern art in fresh and exciting ways.’ For the artists who are part of that story – such as the four women featured here – Phyllida Barlow, Rachel Whiteread, Daria Martin and Marvin Gaye Chetwynd – Tate Modern is more than simply a home for their work, or a bastion of London’s contemporary-art scene. Martin, an American, describes how she first came here from working in the ultra-commercial atmosphere of LA. ‘There’s much more public and institutional support here,’ she says. As for Tate Modern: ‘It’s a big machine, but it makes contemporary and modern art less opaque. And that’s great.’ Because it can be bafflingly opaque: who hasn’t stood in front of a piece of conceptual art, read the blurb, and wondered if they’d missed some vital briefing that explained what they were meant to think? Tate Modern, somehow, demystifies even the most obscure work, makes it fun. When the new building opens – a kind of enormous, distorted tailfin rising up behind the original gallery – there will be three weeks of live performances including Tania Bruguera’s performance piece using police on horseback to herd the visitors, and Tino Sehgal’s gallery attendants who randomly break into song. You’ll also find children’s spaces, performances by community choirs, film screenings and Tate Exchange – 50 organisations, from charities to universities, taking over a floor of the gallery to debate and respond to the art. A hyperactive host of things, that is, to dismantle 4 any remaining barriers to the work, and bring people in. 1 Embankment by The sculptor Phyllida Barlow describes Rachel Whiteread. the moment an audience meets a work of art, 2 A still from Birds and becomes, as she puts it ‘equal protag(2001), a 16mm onists: that to me is a great thrill’. Her own film, by Daria MARVIN GAYE CHETWYND Performance artist pictured: her piece ‘Hermitos Children, the pilot episode’ (2008) ‘When I walked into the new Tate Modern building it felt like a thrill. It was like, “Oh wow, I want to get lost in here, this is amazing.” I think the public will own it quickly and say, “This is ours, this is our space.”’ PHYLLIDA BARLOW Sculptor with her ‘Untitled: Upturned house 2’ (2012) ‘I feel it’s important to be an artist, not a woman artist, and to be within a context, for better or worse, of the whole historical footprint of art and its anomalies and idiosyncrasies.’ when, growing up, she’d draw and paint to find relief from boredom. ‘One of the things I blame is the internet,’ she says. ‘Creativity gets switched off by this demon that’s always in the house… My kids say, “I’m bored”, and I say, “Good! Work out how to not be bored!”’ Her own work, like Barlow’s, is large-scale, hefty, suited to Tate Modern’s industrial-size dimensions. In the new re-hang, she will show Untitled (Floor), a cast of a wooden floor made up of 14 slabs of polyester resin. This kind of super-size sculpture, she’s found over the years, is not the sort of thing that collectors tend to buy for their homes – and so she’s grateful for a gallery with enough funds to purchase it and enough space to show it. It’s also not always the genre of work associated with women artists. ‘There’s a macho side of this world,’ says Barlow, ‘especially sculpture.’ Fortunately, in the form of Frances Morris, Tate Modern has a new director who has long championed the work of women artists. ‘There has been a significant increase in the percentage of women artists in Tate’s collection over the past 50 years, and this gap is narrowing,’ says Morris. ‘The playing field isn’t level yet, but I really hope that visitors will see how women have been and are an incredibly important part of the story of art across the world.’ That, for Barlow, is key – not to make women artists a special case, but for them to be shown and seen as equals. As she says of Frances Morris: ‘She has a very powerful understanding of the broader context of art, male and female: all art. I don’t think her attitude to women artists is patronising in terms of isolating them.’ In the new Tate Modern, these four artists will simply form part of the cacophonous whole – a great, sprawling, cavernous, concrete powerhouse, which still smells, just a little, of oil. 144 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 FRANCES MORRIS D i re ctor of Tate Mo der n pictured in the Tanks ‘I want to focus on how artists work and the way we experience art here and now. It’s an incredible opportunity to tell the story of modern art in fresh and exciting ways.’ DARIA MARTIN Artist and film-maker pictured on Level 2 of the Switch House ‘There used to be such a myth around the idea that artists must be all-consumed by their work at all times, and it must be their first and only love. I think many artists through the ages, both male and female, have deflated that myth.’ BEAUTY PHOTOGRAPH: EMMA TEMPEST Edited by SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD HEAT WAVE Your summer routine made easy, from perfect bronzers and the best sunscreens to frizz-free hair and the most evocative perfumes. Plus: the beauty secrets of the British actress and model Gabriella Wilde BEAUTY BAZAAR Limited Edition Gelée Bronzer, £33 Estée Lauder £6.99 L’Oréal Paris £30 Clarins N Cheek & Lip Tint in Honeysuckle, £16.75 Jouer at Cult Beauty Sun-kissed Face Gelee, £23 Clinique G T O U C H E I Does anyone really want to look tanned any more? A glowing tint is How to look naturally radiant one thing, but a homogenously bronzed complexion looks both instead of blandly tanned passé and ageing, especially if By SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD achieved using a deep self-tanner and bronzing powder, which all too often result in a mottled, obviously made-up finish. 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FINER TRESSES: Braun Satin Hair 7 Iontec Brush won’t straighten your hair, but it does brush away the halo of frizz thanks to the ion technology. £165 BEAUTY BAZAAR BEAUTY BAZAAR SAFE AND SOUND outdoors and reapplied every two hours to maintain the SPF value stated on the bottle,’ says the dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. The LA-based dermatologist Dr Harold Lancer recommends using one to two ounces for your entire body, which means at least a teaspoon-sized amount for your face and neck. DO YOU NEED TO WEAR SPF IN THE UK? Lock out harmful rays and keep your skin healthy with our pick of the best sun protection By VICTORIA HALL ‘Even on a grey day, up to 80 per cent of UV rays can penetrate the clouds, so you should wear a minimum SPF15 every day wherever you are,’ says Dr Mahto. Many face creams contain an SPF15 or above. 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Few of us apply sunscreen correctly, which can have lethal consequences. ‘Sunscreen should be applied 30 minutes before going Prince’s Trust Limited Edition Invisiblur Perfecting Shield SPF30, £69.50 Murad 154 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R Prevage City Smart Hydrating Shield, £55 Elizabeth Arden THE PRODUCTS Pivoine Sublime in Amber Rose, £12 L’Occitane Protecting Fluid SPF50 UV, £65 Crème de la Mer | July 2016 Mineral Matte UV Defense SPF30, £39 SkinCeuticals Silky Bronze Cellular Protective Cream For Face SPF30, £80 Sensai Gelcream Light SPF50, £24 Heliocare www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHS: ENRIQUE BADULESU/TRUNK ARCHIVE, KAT PISIOLEK/HEARST STUDIOS An SPF50 will give you 98 per cent protection, while SPF30 offers 97 per cent. The length of protection offered by different factors depends on how quickly your own skin burns. For example, if you burn within three minutes without any sun cream, an SPF30 should protect you for 90 minutes and an SPF50 for 150 minutes. 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The key to avoiding excess-baggage charges is to invest in multi-tasking products that give you the results you need with the minimum of fuss. Foreo’s Luna Go cleansing device – a lightweight, extraportable version of the Luna 2 – is one such example. Fitting easily into your make-up bag, it’s a compact cleansing solution that uses cutting-edge technology to give you a glowing complexion. By directing pulsations through its soft silicone touch-points, the ultra-hygienic device lifts away layers of dirt, oil and make-up residue, leaving your skin deeply cleansed, while lower-frequency pulsations help fight the signs of ageing. Plus, it’ll remain charged for up to 30 uses, with no replacement brushes needed, so it’ll last you all holiday long. You can tailor the treatment to your needs by choosing from four different brushes, each designed for a specific skin type: sensitive, normal, combination and oily. After using the device, you’ll find your skin primed to absorb your favourite skincare and make-up products even more effectively. Assuming you can fit them into your cabin baggage, that is… The Luna Go costs £69. For further information, visit www.foreo.com/HB2016. BEAUTY BAZAAR SUN-K ISSED SCENTS i B r ow n £1 48 fo r 100 m l Cr e e d £4 9 fo 70 fo r 100ml Tom Fo rd £ r1 0 0m lG ue rl a in Z UL Photo graph by PA AK BY VICTORIA HALL r fo r £ 50 e obb ud 50 lB 0m While these perfumes may have different notes, they all share one miraculous power: with one spritz you’re transported to a far-flung beach, warm sand between your toes m 10 l E steé L a £ 5 0 fo r BAZAAR PROMOTION Hannah, 35 A lighter touch The latest innovations and techniques for applying facial fillers offer discreet yet game-changing results T here was a time when you could always tell that your friend, neighbour or work colleague had dabbled with facial fillers. The tell-tale signs of pillowy eyes, overly plumped cheeks and puffy lips gave the game away. Fast-forward 10 years and you’re now wondering why she looks so good, rather than questioning what she’s had done. Juvéderm facial fillers are made up of ‘cross-linked’ hyaluronic acid, which can be synthesised as a runny or thick gel. The variety of consistencies allows for a tailored approach to treatment, depending on the area of the face and ageing concerns. Juvéderm Voluma is slightly thicker in its consistency, and is used to restore facial volume; whereas Juvéderm Volbella is thinner, and so is used to treat fine lines and delicate areas such as the lips. Allergan, which makes Juvéderm facial fillers, leads the way in the development and training of the practitioners who use its products. In the UK alone, it trains up to 1,500 physicians every year, so they are trained to the highest standards, and know how to EXPERT C O N S U LTAT I O N D R TA PA N PAT E L , AESTHETIC P R AC T I T I O N E R get the best possible results from using the Juvéderm range. The way in which fillers are applied has changed over the past decade, too. Experienced practitioners take a holistic approach, and look at your face as a whole, rather than pinpointing specific lines to plump. The medical director at the Phi Clinic in London, Dr Tapan Patel, uses a concept developed by the Brazilian surgeon Mauricio de Maio that assesses how treating one area could have a positive impact on the adjacent zone. In this sense, it has never been more important to find the right practitioner for you. To find your nearest clinic, go online at locator.juvederm.co.uk. DATE OF PREP: MAY 2016 UK/0279/2016 You’re wondering why she looks so good ‘The aesthetics industry is rapidly evolving and new, sophisticated injection techniques allow practitioners to work in an increasingly effective way, ensuring a better aesthetic outcome. I continue to invest a lot of my time developing my skill set, so I can pass on the benefits to my patients. I’d recommend that all patients ask their practitioner about his or her recent training experience, as the success of any treatment is dependent on this. I use an approach, developed by the leading Brazilian plastic surgeon Mauricio de Maio, that assesses the face as a whole, to determine the impact that treating one area will have on another. This allows me to offer genuinely bespoke treatment plans that deliver incredibly effective yet subtle-looking results.’ Green Tomato Leaf Candle, £44 Jo Malone London and Marthe Armitage BEAUTY BAZAAR Gabriella Wilde. Below right: the Somerset countryside, where she lives Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery PowerFoil Mask, £16 Estée Lauder £38 Neom O rg a n i c C o co n ut Vi rg in O il , .3 £4 WELLBEING PHILOSOPHY ‘Rather than taking supplements, I eat healthily and get all the vitamins I need through my diet. Most days, I have a green juice with spirulina, flaxseed and chia seeds – I avoid adding too much fruit, as it is just another form of sugar. Now that I live in the Somerset countryside, I find walking is the best form of exercise. I also meditate as often as possible, and I try to get away on a week-long silent retreat around twice a year. They give me so much energy. I really recommend them.’ BEAUTY ICON ‘Vibrant, healthy women inspire me, rather than anyone noticeably “made-up”. My mother has always been a role model, and I also love Carolyn Murphy’s natural look.’ Gabriella Wilde £6.95 Dr PawPaw MAKE-UP ESSENTIALS ‘I rarely wear mascara during the day. Instead, I always use an eyelash curler and apply Estée Lauder’s Little Black Primer, £20, which makes lashes appear as though they’ve been dyed. If I look a little tired, I apply a white eyeliner to the inner corner of my eyes to make them seem bigger and brighter. Defined eyebrows are important to me, as is a really good gel eyeliner.’ £50 Estée Lauder £36 Diptyque 158 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R £10.20 Bioderma Sold with candle (above) Jo Malone London | July 2016 £21 Aveda PHOTOGRAPHS: REGAN CAMERON, GETTY IMAGES, KAT PISIOLEK/HEARST STUDIOS essential, and I use it all over my body. Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Synchronised Recovery Complex II Serum is my skincare must-have; I apply it in the morning and at night. I always take off my make-up with Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water and use Dr PawPaw Original Clear Lip Balm on my lips.’ TRAVEL TIPS ‘When I travel, I pack a sheet mask and spritz my face with Evian’s water spray, £2.99. I also try to drink as much water as possible on flights and avoid any salty foods that might dehydrate The British actress me further. To calm puffy eyes, I boil green-tea-bags, and model shares her freeze them overnight and wellbeing ethos then place them over my lids.’ THE BEAUTY EDIT: £40 Estée Lauder 9 B io n a SKINCARE NECESSITIES ‘Organic coconut oil is an HAIR HEROES ‘I’m a huge fan of Aveda’s shampoos and conditioners, as the formulas are gentle, but still leave my hair thoroughly cleansed. Once a week, I also use a home-made coconut oil mask to replenish and rehydrate.’ RELAXATION REMEDIES ‘Sleep is crucial for me. My bedroom is a calming oasis and anything work-related is kept in a separate room. Scents help me fall asleep. I use a lavender room spray or diffuser and light a Jo Malone London candle while I’m reading in bed.’ BAZAAR PROMOTION Express Radiance Ice Cubes, £48 for eight Anne Semonin Precious Serum, £96 for 30ml Anne Semonin Good to glow Radiate health and happiness with a tailormade skincare regime inspired by Parisian chic Phytarosa Serum, £96 for 30ml Anne Semonin T here’s something about a Parisian woman’s approach to beauty that can’t be put into words: flawless skin; a glowing complexion; a certain je ne sais quoi that emanates from every pore… Behind the scenes though, that look of insouciant elegance takes careful maintenance. The secret lies in tailoring the skincare regime to individual needs and to the changing of the seasons. Whereas during winter, suffering from dry patches may be an issue, come summer an oily T-zone may be more of a problem, so it’s crucial to keep re-evaluating one’s skin. The French brand Anne Semonin specialises in bespoke skincare, with products and treatments adapted to each customer. Adjust your regime regularly by choosing from an array of serums, from the radiance-boosting Precious Serum to the skin-soothing Phytarosa Serum. Each formula is packed with active ingredients and is lightweight in texture, leaving skin feeling soft and nourished, rather than sticky or tight. For a multi-tasking skincare solution with an advanced anti-ageing formula, try the new Super Active Cream, available exclusively at Harrods. Wild indigo and peptides relax facial muscles for a Botox-like effect, while marine ingredients including rock samphire and porphyra seaweed energise cells and protect the skin from environmental damage. As summer approaches, fast-track your way to looking bright and beautiful with the brand’s Express Radiance Ice Cubes. A travel essential, they contain a powerful blend of plant extracts and mineral salts that helps soothe, de-puff and restore radiance. They’re perfect for rehydrating skin after a flight, and are even more effective if used after gently exfoliating with the Resurfacing Peel Mask. For a summer glow that will truly last, book a facial at one of Anne Semonin’s European spas. The brand’s founder has been a facialist to such luminaries as Grace Kelly and Catherine Deneuve, so you’ll be one step closer to mastering the art of French style. Available at Harrods, Space NK, selected spas across the world and at www.annesemonin.com. The Super Active Cream is a worldwide exclusive at Harrods. The secret lies in tailoring the skincare regime to individual needs and to the changing of the seasons Super Active Cream, £159 for 50ml Anne Semonin Resurfacing Peel Mask, £74 for 75ml Anne Semonin ESCAPE PHOTOGRAPH: HARRY CORY WRIGHT Edited by LUCY HALFHEAD THIS OTHER EDEN Cliveden House in Berkshire The best of British: bucolic boltholes, magnificent estates, coastal havens and urban retreats IN SEARCH OF ALBION Our favourite destinations, from Arcadian cottages to grand country mansions B E S T FO R C E L E B R AT I O N S T H E FA R M H O U S E at Wilderness Reser ve, Suf folk Thatched and pink like a giant sweet, the Farmhouse is part of the impeccably landscaped Wilderness Reserve in Suffolk, a collection of manors and country cottages set within the 4,500-acre Sibton Park Estate, and brought back to life by the Foxtons founder Jon Hunt. After a ramble across the Reserve’s Arcadian pleasure grounds (including tennis courts, a swimming pool with a hot tub, and a rowing lake), the Farmhouse’s rural fantasy land awaits. There’s a wooden dining table of regal proportions – perfect for a feast of artisanal cheeses, with fresh sourdough bread from the local Two Magpies Bakery. These can be delivered to your door, along with the morning newspapers to curl up with in the drawingroom. Turquoise walls, quirky furniture and ceramics, and roll-top baths in the six bedrooms complete the fairy-tale interiors. It’s a good base for seaside adventures in the coastal towns of Aldeburgh and Southwold, where you can lose yourself in a magical world of pier games, striped beach huts and fish and chips. LUCY HALFHEAD 162 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHS:: CAMERON MAYNARD/APERTOPHOTOS.COM Wilderness Reserve (020 7484 5700; www.wildernessreserve.com), from £562 a night for the Farmhouse, based on a seven-night stay (sleeps 12). ESCAPE B E S T FO R G L A M O U R S O H O FA R M H O U S E Oxfordshire Fashion’s favourite retreat, Soho Farmhouse has wellington boots ready and waiting in your cosy cabin, lest mud ruins your Manolos. The members’-club outpost near Chipping Norton has facilities galore, including a Cowshed spa, a boating lake and an indoor-outdoor pool. The cabins are imbued with relaxed refinement, including rockingchairs, velvet sofas, hair straighteners and hot-water bottles. Roaming milk floats – one with a bar and one to cook breakfast in bed – mean you never have to emerge. We loved hopping on our bicycles to explore the deli, the cookery school, the pub and the Main Barn restaurant. This summer, a 60-seat Electric Barn Cinema and Japanese restaurant add to the fun. LH Soho Farmhouse (01608 691000; www.sohofarmhouse. com), from £160 a night for a Farmyard Room and from £285 for a Studio Cabin. B E S T FO R FO O D I E S THE FOREST SIDE Cumbria The two-Michelin-starred restaurant L’Enclume has long been the culinary jewel in Cumbria’s crown, but there is a new contender for that accolade. The Forest Side, a restaurant with rooms, is housed in a splendid slate mansion in Wordsworth’s Grasmere. Kevin Tickle, formerly the souschef at L’Enclume, now oversees the kitchen and the daily-changing menus. Local produce from the garden and surrounding 60 acres takes centre-stage; the theme is maintained in the bedrooms, where the Harrison Spinks beds are lined with wool from the Herdwick sheep that graze nearby. Enjoy the atmosphere of playfulness and simple luxury – from the delicious cocktails to the bird-ofparadise wallpaper – in a setting worthy of poetry. HELENA LEE The Forest Side (01539 435250; www.theforestside.com), from £209 a room a night B&B. www.harpersbazaar.co.uk July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 163 ▼ B E S T FO R A G I R L S ’ W E E K E N D W I L M I N G T O N P R I O RY E a s t S u s s e x The Landmark Trust, which celebrated its 50th anniversary year in 2015, has a portfolio of some 200 charmingly eccentric property lets, providing stressed-out urbanites with unusual escapes. Wilmington Priory’s beautiful rooms and contemporary kitchen immediately inspire a sense of calm – no ageing furniture, unreliable electricity supplies or draughts for today’s Landmarkers. The original architecture has been lovingly preserved, including a mediaeval façade, and a double-height wing, which is now home to a ping-pong table and offers sweeping views of the South Downs. LH Wilmington Priory (01628 825925; www.landmarktrust.org.uk), from £481 for four nights (sleeps six). ESCAPE B E S T FO R H O R T I C U LT U R A L I S T S THYME Cotswolds Idyllic is an over-used word when it comes to the British countryside, but it is entirely appropriate for Thyme, the Cotswolds’ newest hotel, carefully restored from ancient farm buildings in the pictureperfect village of Southrop. Catch up on some holiday reading under the majestic oak beams of the characterful barn, dine on seasonal food at the 17th-century local pub, or meander along the River Leach to the hotel’s kitchen garden, filled with geese, pigs and, in the summer months, huge beds of fragrant flowers. The interiors are just as splendid: sumptuous sofas covered in tweed are sourced from the local town of Tetbury, life-size leather sheep look on as you drink at the aptly named Baa, and there are roll-top baths in nearly every room. TERESA FITZHERBERT Thyme (01367 850174; www.thyme.co.uk), from £260 a room a night B&B. B E S T FO R H O U S E PA R T I E S HEDSOR HOUSE Buckinghamshire Dating back to 1166, Hedsor House was originally designed by William Chambers, the architect of Somerset House. Badly damaged by a fire in 1795, it was rebuilt in the Italian-villa style, but with a domed hall rather than a courtyard. It’s under this impressive ceiling that today’s guests gather for chic cocktail receptions. This stately home is exclusively available to large groups looking to play lord of the manor for a few days. The current owners, the Shephard family, are responsible for the 10 newly refurbished luxury suites, which provide overnight accommodation so you can keep on dancing till dawn. There is also an elegant bridal suite with three inter-connecting rooms where the wedding party can prepare for their big day. LH Hedsor House (01628 819050; www.hedsor.com), from £5,450 for a 24-hour exclusive hire (sleeps 22). B E S T FO R R O M A N T I C S B AT T Y L A N G L E Y ’ S L o n d o n Named after an 18th-century eccentric, Batty Langley’s in Spitalfields is the latest venture from the hoteliers Peter McKay and Douglas Blain, who own Hazlitt’s in Soho and the Rookery in Clerkenwell. Located in a historic brick terrace on Folgate Street, Batty Langley’s is deliberately small, with only 29 rooms. Each has its own character, but all are furnished with carved wooden four-poster beds, oil paintings and Georgian antiques. By contrast, the bathrooms are unashamedly modern. Downstairs, there’s an honesty bar, where you can mix your own drinks before settling in front of a crackling open fire. Although there’s no restaurant, breakfast is delivered to your room, complete with freshly baked bagels from nearby Brick Lane. CATRIONA GRAY Batty Langley’s (020 7377 4390; www.battylangleys.com), from £250 a room a night. 164 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.harpersbazaar.co.uk July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 165 ▼ B E S T FO R LO N G WA L K S T H E P E AC O C K AT ROWS L E Y D e r by s h i r e The village of Rowsley is a gateway to the Peak District; sitting at the confluence of the Rivers Derwent and Wye, it’s ideal for exploring the majesty of Chatsworth House and the surrounding moors. Once the dower house of Haddon Hall and now a boutique hotel owned by the estate’s proprietors Lord and Lady Edward Manners, the Peacock at Rowsley charms with its nooks and crannies, buckling floors and impeccable service. Relax in one of the 15 bedrooms, or by the open fire of the restaurant, where dishes include an amuse-bouche of tiny fish-finger sandwiches and a full English breakfast in the guise of an elegant starter. And if you’re here for the great outdoors, the hotel not only offers guided historical walks to the nearby estates and peaks, but a candlelit bath in your room to soak your aching limbs afterwards. HL The Peacock at Rowsley (01629 733518; www.thepeacockat rowsley.com), from £120 a room a night. ESCAPE B E S T FO R FA M I L I E S T H E S T M AW E S H O T E L C o r n w a l l Opening for its first summer season this year, the St Mawes Hotel, in the namesake seaside village on the southern Cornish coast, is a more laid-back affair than its sister property down the promenade, the Idle Rocks. Rooms have a breezy, beachy decor, with striped throws and seagrass carpets; some have bunk-beds or mezzanine floors for families. The heart of the hotel is the pub, frequented by the locals and holidaymakers alike, with jolly live music acts on Saturday nights. Its food makes the most of the seaside setting, with crab linguine, mussels and lobster on the menu, plus delicious pizza options for children. CAROLINE LEWIS The St Mawes Hotel (01326 270170; www.stmaweshotel.com), from £185 a room a night. 166 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 PHOTOGRAPHS: HARRY CORY WRIGHT, DREW GIBSON, ALAMY B E S T FO R T R A D I T I O N A L I S T S CLIVEDEN HOUSE Berkshire It is hard to find a hotel more woven into English history; first built in 1666, the former home of Nancy Astor has hosted Churchill, the Beatles and every single monarch since George I. It was also in the Italianate mansion’s walled swimming pool that John Profumo first encountered Christine Keeler, sparking the affair that would alter the course of British politics. But visitors don’t come here for the heritage alone. As well as 38 bedrooms and suites opulently decorated with silk canopy beds, there’s a Michelin-starred chef at the helm of the hotel restaurant, tennis courts and champagne boat trips to nearby Henley. TF Cliveden House (01628 668561; www.clivedenhouse.co.uk), from £445 a room a night. SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Just £15.95 for one year* ONLY £3.98 AN ISSUE FREE DELIVERY DIRECT TO YOUR DOOR SAVE 33% PHOTOGRAPH: PAUL ZAK ON THE COVER PRICE RING 0844 848 1601 AND QUOTE ‘KTC10462’ OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINES.CO.UK/TC/J16 Terms and conditions: *offer valid for UK subscriptions by Direct Debit only. The minimum subscription term is four issues; issues are received quarterly. After your first four issues, Direct Debit subscriptions will continue at the rate of £15.95 every four issues thereafter, unless otherwise notified. Subscriptions may be cancelled by providing 28 days’ prior notice. The standard price for four issues is £23.80, based on a basic cover price of £5.95. All savings are based on the standard cover price of £5.95. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer and closes on 1 July 2016. For overseas subscription queries, ring +44 1858 438794, or visit www.hearstmagazines.co.uk. BT landline calls to 0844 numbers will cost no more than 5p a minute; calls made from mobiles and other networks usually cost more. Johnny Coca, Vanessa Lunt and Caroline Issa Karla Otto L’ENTENTE CORDIALE Justine Picardie Christopher Kane and Emilia Wickstead Justin Thornton and Erdem Moralioglu A celebration of British style in the heart of the French capital Edited by TERESA FITZHERBERT Anna Murphy It may have been Paris Fashion Week, but at the Peninsula Paris, Harper’s Bazaar’s editor-in-chief Justine Picardie and the hotel’s general manager Nicolas Béliard were celebrating the brilliance of London designers. Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic, Erdem Moralioglu, Mary Katrantzou, Johnny Coca and Simone Rocha were among the talented guests at a dinner in the hotel’s Cantonese restaurant LiLi. Sabine Getty, Anna Murphy and Caroline Issa also took a break from the front row to feast on duck and sautéed scallops under the glittering chandeliers. There was a ripple of excitement when Kendall Jenner was spotted in the lobby, proving that even fashion’s finest can get a little star-struck. TF Mary Katrantzou Roksanda Ilincic Simone Rocha Daniella Pickup, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos PHOTOGRAPHS: OLIVER HOLMS Justine Picardie and Sabine Getty FLASH! Jessica Raine Romola Garai James Norton Marc Quinn SOUTH BANK SHOW Olivia Colman The National Theatre’s fundraiser was a resolutely British affair Heida Reed The Bright Young Things Gala, staged to raise money to support emerging talent, was an appropriately theatrical affair. On arrival at the National Theatre, guests were immediately immersed in a modern version of A Midsummer Night’s Dream before they were escorted to their tables on stage. The evening had a particularly British flavour, from the moments of comedy (Olivia Colman accidently bid on a holiday in the auction) and the talent attending (War & Peace’s James Norton, and the theatre’s artistic director Rufus Norris), to the Nyetimber reception and menu of rare Herefordshire beef from the enterprising chef Ollie Dabbous. With £216,000 raised from the auction, followed by more merry performances after dinner, there was no doubt that the future of theatre was looking bright. HELENA LEE Jessie Buckley, James Norton and Melinda Stevens Andrew Scott Rufus Norris July 2016 | H A R P E R’ S BA Z A A R | 169 STOCKISTS A–B Alex Gore Browne (www.alexgorebrowne.com) Alexander McQueen (020 7355 0088; www.alexandermcqueen.com) Amanda Wakeley (020 3691 2982; www.amandawakeley.com) Anthropologie (020 7529 9800; www.anthropologie.com) Anya Hindmarch (020 7493 1628; www.anyahindmarch.com) Aquazzura at Net-A-Porter (www.net-a -porter.com) Armani Privé (+33 1 56 89 01 18) Aspinal of London (020 7493 9509; www.aspinaloflondon.com) Asprey (www.asprey.com) Aurélie Bidermann (www.aureliebidermann.com) Bally (020 7499 0057; www.bally.co.uk) Barrie at Burlington Arcade (www.burlington-arcade. com) Bella Freud (www.bellafreud.com) Bloomsbury Ceramics (www.bloomsburyceramics.com) Boodles (020 7437 5050; www.boodles. com) Bottega Veneta (020 7838 9394; www.bottegaveneta.com) Boucheron (020 7514 9170; www.boucheron.com) Browns (020 7514 0016; www.brownsfashion.com) Burberry (020 7806 8904; 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www.hermes.com) Hillier Bartley (www.hillierbartley.com) Hugo Guinness at Wilson Stephens & Jones (020 7221 5265; www.wilsonstephensandjones.com) J–L J Crew (020 7292 1580; www.jcrew.com) Jacob Cohen at Harrods (020 7730 1234; www.harrods.com) Jimmy Choo (020 7493 5858; 170 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | July 2016 www.jimmychoo.com) Joseph (020 7629 3713; www.joseph-fashion. com) Kurt Geiger (020 7836 8478; www.kurtgeiger.com) L&K Antiques (www.gustafssonhb.com) Langton Textiles at Tissus d’Hélène (www.tissusdhelene.co.uk) Lanvin (020 7491 1839; www.lanvin.com) Links of London (020 7930 0400; www.linksoflondon.com) Lorfords (www.lorfordsantiques.com) Louis Vuitton (020 3214 9200) Luxottica (www.luxottica.com) M Manolo Blahnik (020 7352 3863; www.manoloblahnik.com) Marc Jacobs (www.marcjacobs.com) Marks & Spencer (www.marks andspencer.com) Marni (020 7245 9520; www.marni.com) Mary Katrantzou at Matchesfashion.com Max Mara (020 7499 7902; www.maxmara.com) Miu Miu at Net-A-Porter (www.net-a-porter.com) Mulberry (020 7491 3900; www.mulberry.com) N–P Nancy Gonzalez at Net-A-Porter (www.net-a-porter.com) Neptune (www.neptune.com) Net-A-Porter (www.net-a-porter.com) Next (www.next.co.uk) Online Ceramics (www.onlineceramics.com) Oscar de la Renta at Mytheresa.com The Painted House (www.thepainted house.com) Pandora (www.pandora.net) Paul Smith (0800 023 4006) Peter Pilotto at Browns (020 7514 0016; www.brownsfashion.com) Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini (020 7235 2349; www.philosophy official.com) Polo Ralph Lauren (020 7535 4600; www.ralphlauren.com) Prada (020 7235 0008; www.prada.com) Preen by Thornton Bregazzi (020 8964 9995) Pringle of Scotland (www.pringleofscotland.com) R Ralph Lauren (020 7535 4600; www.ralphlauren.com) Robert Clergerie (020 7935 3601; www.robertclergerie.com) Roksanda (020 7613 6499; www.roksanda.com) Rupert Sanderson at Net-A-Porter (www.net-a-porter.com) Russell & Bromley (020 7734 6991; www.russellandbromley.com) S–T Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane (020 7235 6706; www.ysl.com) Salvatore Ferragamo (020 7629 5007; www.ferragamo.com) Sergio Rossi (020 7811 5950; www.sergiorossi.com) Simone Rocha (020 7629 6317; www.simonerocha.com) Stella McCartney (020 7518 3100; www.stellamccartney.com) Stuart Weitzman (www.stuartweitzman. com) Sunglass Hut (www.sunglasshut.com) Susan Osbourne (020 8969 6255; www.susanosbourne.co.uk) Tabitha Simmons (www.tabithasimmons.com) Tiffany & Co (0800 160 1837; www.tiffany.co.uk) Topshop (0344 848 7487; www.topshop.com) V–Y Valentino (020 7235 5855; www.valentino.com) Victoria Beckham (020 7042 0700) William & Son (020 7493 8385; www.williamandson. com) Wilson Stephens & Jones (020 7221 5265; www.wilsonstephens andjones.com) Yastik by Rifat Ozbek (www.yastikbyrifatozbek.com) SUBSCRIBE to HARPER’S BAZAAR For this month’s fabulous subscription offer turn to page 56, or ring 0844 322 1768. www.harpersbazaar.co.uk BAZAAR PROMOTION The science of nature With organic beauty on the rise, Bazaar discovers how one brand has led the way I f you had to predict what the beauty industry will look like in 10 years’ time, a super-charged serum or hi-tech gadget is likely to come to mind. Few women would consider organic beauty as a theme. However, Mintel’s 2025 report suggests it will be a key trend. Today, almost half of the UK population prefer to opt for natural and organic beauty products. Bazaar caught up with the Organic Pharmacy’s founder Margo Marrano to find out how the brand combines health and beauty and how it has stayed ahead of the curve… ON THE BRAND’S ETHOS Gene Expression, £190 The Organic Pharmacy Herbal Toner, £31.95 The Organic Pharmacy ‘My first job was working in a pharmacy on a Saturday, and I was enthralled by how the pharmacist would blend ingredients in the amber bottles and cure various ailments. It taught me that it is possible to create an organic product that is more effective than its synthetic counterparts without compromising on your health or beauty. All of our products are results-driven and contain only the best-quality ingredients in precise dosages. It’s also very important that they are beautiful to look at and luxurious to use. What makes me happy is to hear all the wonderful feedback from customers about how our products and treatments have changed their lives and skin for the better.’ Antioxidant Face Gel, £54.95 The Organic Pharmacy ON HI-TECH ORGANIC ‘Hi-tech naturals and science have always been important to me. It’s vital that every product does what it promises, so I combine organic-plant actives, cosmeceuticals and vitamins, as well as hi-tech naturals such as stem cells, hyaluronic acid and growth factors to rejuvenate and restore the skin.’ Rose Diamond Day Cream, £290 The Organic Pharmacy Carrot Butter Cleanser, £39.95 The Organic Pharmacy ON THE BRAND’S LATEST INNOVATIONS ‘It took four years of research to ensure the Rose Diamond Day Cream was perfect, as I wanted it to be a powerful alternative to intrusive treatments and injectables. It contains five key ingredients, including pure diamond powder to blur fine lines and brighten skin, and hibiscus-seed extract to boost collagen production and increase skin firmness. The cream has impressive clinical results, with 85 per cent of testers seeing a noticeable difference in their skin’s elasticity, smoothness and texture.’ ON THE FUTURE ‘We’ll continue to innovate. For autumn, there’ll be a new Rose Diamond Eye Cream and other additions, so watch this space.’ For further information, visit www.theorganicpharmacy.com ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE Summer essentials Look good, feel great ENGLISH CASHMERE CARDIGAN The English Cashmere Cardigan is made in England from 100% cashmere. Unique to DAWN SUNFLOWER DRESSES French Velvet, this delightful fitted and very feminine design, will enhance the female form. Beautifully hand finished in England, with Models: Megan DuBose. stunning contrasting ribbon and delightful jewel Hair/makeup: Coleen M.Singson buttons. Looks equally as good worn classic, Model: Drea Cadigan. quirky or casual. Hair/makeup: Jessica Colella Available in four colours. £270. Photographer: Dominic Senador Visit: www.frenchvelvet.co.uk or call to www.dawnsunflower.com order on 01325 460669. LOOK YOUNGER LONGERTM REGENTIV’S THE SPECIALIST SERUM (WITH RETINOL) Lines, wrinkles, crepey eyes, neck, sun and skin damage can all benefit from this potent formula. Developed by Harley Street skin specialists with concentrated Retinol, Vitamin BLUE VELVET MASON PEARSON E, Aloe Vera and Mason Pearson have been making hairbrushes Blue Velvet, the home of contemporary sunscreen. for over 125 years. These come with tufts and luxury footwear direct from the heart Users say, “Since starting with The Specialist of either pure bristle, bristle and nylon, or of Europe. Serum my friends have asked what I am using all nylon, and are available from all good Always one step ahead, they have and my skin has never looked better”. department stores and chemists and cost established themselves on their quality To order visit www.regentiv.co.uk from £26.50 to £123.00. and first-rate service. Tel: 01923 212555. 30ml £29.95, 50ml For a free brochure and haircare leaflet, Visit them at: 174 Kings Road, SW3 4UP £44.95, 100ml £79.95, 200ml £149. write to Mason Pearson Brothers, Dept 51, or call 020 7376 7442. Free P&P. Regentiv Specialist Skin Care, 37 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AB, Buy online: www.bluevelvetshoes.com PO Box 400, Herts, WD17 3ZW. or call 020 7491 2613. ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE Luxury escapes On the move YOGAFRIENDS FUERTEVENTURA Would you like to be active, do yoga and sports and also relax deeply? Come and join Yogateacher Annette Arndt and her team, year around in the ever spring climate of Fuerteventura, Canary Islands, to celebrate an island-style yoga and sports vacation. The Retreat is peacefully set in Casa Yogafriends, Enjoy your brunch by the pool after morning BALI’S ULTIMATE VILLA – THE LUXE BALI, PADANG PADANG BEACH Yoga, enjoy the highest quality standards of Wake to a Bali Sunrise over breaking waves below, as Bali’s sacred mountains stand sentinel services. Join us for two daily Yoga-sessions, beyond the bay. Breakfast on exotic fruits in the rainforest grove. Descend a landscaped path to delicious organic food, volcano hiking, guided the Indian Ocean. Sip sunset cocktails to panoramic vistas on the Penthouse Terrace – or floating in trail running, massage, etc. You will be taken on the cliff edge infinity pool. Three sumptuous Suites; Home Theatre, Spa, Sauna, Gym, Steam Room; a very unique mind and body journey to be fully original artworks; drinkable activated rainwater from every tap; discreet staff and talented Chef. recharged, rebooted, and inspired! Attention to every detail. Ultimate Luxury. More infos on www.yogafriends.eu. www.theluxebali.com For inquiries contact us via [email protected] www.baliluxuryvillas.com/en/villa/villa-the-luxe-bali one of Fuerteventura´s most beautiful luxury villas. CHATEAU LOU CASTEOU TENNIS ACADEMY, COTE D’AZUR, FRANCE CHATEAU LOU CASTEOU, BODY TONIC LUXURY FITNESS RETREAT September 7-12th 2016. October 12-16th 2016. Lose weight and Enrol now to book your place. Four nights improve your fitness level. Set in the beautiful luxury accommodation in the chateau. French Cote d’Azur countryside, minutes from Daily professional tennis coaching sessions. the sea, this luxurious fitness retreat provides Champagne reception. All meals, drinks, wines the perfect balance of energetic fitness classes, Beachcover create exquisite hand embroidered and aperitifs. Tennis Tournaments and Award outdoor activities including coastal and mountain beach kaftans for style conscious women and Ceremony. Transfers from Nice airport. treks, aqua-gym, circuit training, gourmet meals children. The ideal light weight accessory to Price: £1,295 inc. VAT per person, per room and pampered luxury to help guests improve take you from your hotel room to the pool or or £980 inc. VAT per person, for two guests their fitness level or kick start a fitness regime. beach. Available in sizes 6-22 and children’s sharing a room. The chateau is also available Five days luxury accommodation in the chateau age 2-12. Looking for something a little for private rental and is ideal for special events, in en-suite bedrooms with sea or mountain views. different for your next holiday? parties and luxurious holidays. Fabulous nutritious, low carbohydrate meals and Visit their website www.beachcover.com Please contact [email protected] with elegant three course dinners with wine. Please Email [email protected] or call questions and for reservations. contact [email protected] with questions 01189 404120 for more information. www.loucasteou.com and for reservations. www.loucasteou.com BEACHCOVER FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK Bazaar fashion Sand by Saya is known for comfortable and eco-friendly sandals featuring elegant crystal embellishments. Designer Saya draws inspiration from scenes around New York City, where the sandals are handmade on an antique sewing machine. These versatile sandals are a must-have for beach getaways or city girls on the go. Visit sandbysaya.com COLLECTION & CO Radara™ We are an online vegan footwear brand, targeting fashion enthusiasts seeking an affordable shoe-drobe update. Unique HA micro-channelling patches to reduce wrinkles and revitalise skin www.collectionandco.co.uk www.radara.co.uk HANDBAG CARE & REPAIR SPECIALISTS Nationwide handbag renovation service for leather & fabric bags ideal for home or travel! Before After Protect & Freshen Your Toothbrush! steripod® clip-on toothbrush protector freshens and protects for up to 3 months with active vapours. Fits manual & electric tootbrushes. No cables or batteries. toothbrush protector www.steripod.co.uk Available at Boots & Superdrug • HANDBAG RESTORATION OR COLOUR CHANGE • REPLACE ZIPS & LINING • REPAIR SCUFFS, SCRATCHES, BURNS & TEARS • REMOVE LIQUID & ALL OTHER STAINS web: www.handbagclinic.co.uk tel: +44 (0)1207 279963 / email: [email protected] Bazaar Classified GENERAL INTEREST HEALTH & BEAUTY SUBSCRIBE TO ONE OF OUR TOP-SELLING MAGAZINES Whether you are looking for fashion and beauty tips, ideas, gossip or wanting easy and delicious recipes – look no further! The UK's Premier Cosmetic Surgery Group Fall in love with yourself just a little bit more Book your consultation with a UK BAAPS and/or BAPRAS registered plastic surgeon today! “ Your magazine subscription will keep you busy for the entire year – I was thrilled with the level of care I received with MyBreast. I couldn’t be happier “ Trust Pilot Reviewer a great gift for family and friends – or simply a treat for yourself! or call 0844 848 1601 www.mybreast.org 0843 778 1525 Your local 45 minute Surgeon Consultation will cost £25 Interest Free Finance options available subject to Terms and Conditions. Comprehensive Aftercare. For details of classified advertising call 020 3728 6260 CLAIRVOYANCY COURSES & TRAVEL Do You Love Style & Fashion? Start earning money doing a job you’ll love... Train to be an Image Consultant & Personal Shopper with leading industry experts Image Professional™ 020 7439 5500 www.goodhousekeeping.co.uk/institute/cookery-school www.imageprofessional.co.uk or CALL 01273 494396 Going to Orlando? Let me help you plan your holiday of a lifetime I am a Personal Travel Planner with DreamFinder Travel; Authorized Disney Vacation Planners For more information email penny@dreamfindertravel.net or find me on Facebook as Penny’s Magical Vacations with DreamFinder Travel FASHION £32.95 www.helenreynolds.net extra mins charged at £1.83 per min FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK visit www.hearstmagazines.co.uk Thomas LaVone is a Newark, New Jersey based custom couture designer known for exceptional evening wear. Born into a family of artisans, craftsmen, and sewers Thomas would be destined for a career as a designer. He attended San Diego Mesa College design school in California and attained an internship with Richard Tyler. Thomas would later move to New York and spend 10 years in the fashion industry as a technical designer. He has worked for Tommy Hilfiger, DKNY, Jones New York, Planet Gold (Private Label) and Victoria’s Secret, to name a few. Thomas LaVone evokes a timeless feminine aesthetic that is both polished and striking. An unparalleled craftsmanship beguiles the standard with perfect lines and exceptional fit. www.thomaslavone.com FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK P H OTO G R A P H ER : J O E CL A R K M UA : D. M A R I E H A I R S T Y L I S T: J E W EL DAV I S FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK BA ERIE O R JOAI LL ZAAR DI D AV I D The traditional etiquette of jewellery and evening gloves is arcane — but may we suggest casting caution aside and displaying your favourite diamonds for all to see? And yes, you shall go to the ball… PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL ZAK STYLED BY CHARLOTTE DAVEY SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS CHANEL DE BEERS GLOV ES , DOLCE & GABBANA AFF D MOND ...WEAR JEWELS OVER YOUR GLOVES? R IA G ORRIS S M