grant goodeve - Scenic Washington

Transcription

i n s i d e r t i p s · M A p s · O U t d O O r r e c r e At i O n · W i n e c O U n t r Y
w a s h i n g t o n s tat e 2 01 3
This Land is
Your Land
grant goodeve
rolls out the
Welcome Mat
8
BEsT sCEniC
road TriPs
Journey
into native
Culture
ScenicWA.com 1
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Contents
Our Washington State
6 | An Insider’s View
7 | Travel Highlights
8 | Introduction
Features
10 | Meet the Locals
For Northwest Backroads host
Grant Goodeve, it’s the people
that make this state great.
15 | Rediscover Seattle
Fresh things to do in the city
we thought we knew.
19 | Found in the South Sound
There is a world to explore between
Seattle and Tacoma.
23 | A Retail Odyssey
Our Backroads Insider explores some
great I-5 exits for shopping success.
26 | The Native State
The names of our indigenous tribes
fill this land along with the people and
traditions they carry.
31 | Power Trips
richard duval
Stunning spots that generate a lot of juice.
33 | Peak Experience
vieW of the CoWlitz ChimneyS driving
WeSt on highWAy 410 over CAyuSe PASS
“You couldn’t make up a more incredible
combination of scenery and serendipity
than the real stuff that’s right here...”
I N S I D E R T I P S · M A P S · O U T D O O R R E C R E AT I O N · W I N E C O U N T R Y
(See page 8)
nate Watters
36 | When in Wine Country
An Insider’s guide to touring vineyards
and tasting rooms like a champ.
Hit the Road
42 | Scenic Byways
W A S H I N G T O N S TAT E 2 01 3
THIS LAND IS
YOUR LAND
These eight great scenic road trips
guarantee that adventure is always on
the horizon.
GRANT GOODEVE
Rolls Out the
Welcome Mat
TRIPS
8 ROADBEST SCENIC
Journey
into Native
Culture
Get the most out of winters in the
Evergreen State by heading for the
white stuff.
78 | Places to Stay and Things to Do
Welcome to Washington
Scan to get a personal welcome from our definitive insider.
82 | Road Map
ScenicWA.com 3
scenicWa.com
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4 scenic Washington state 2013
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an insider’s view
Let’s get “outta here!”
A boss once told me his favorite part of vacation is
leaving the office. Ahh, the “outta here” moment—
it’s the best feeling in the world. You’re on your way,
and the destination is still pure, perfect anticipation.
Possibilities are endless, reality hasn’t intruded.
“
my 2013 travel picks:
the million-dollar
mile on sr 155
uS 101 along hood
Canal in november –
maple leaves so big
they might crack your
windshield.
uS 12 from Walla
Walla to Waitsburg:
Be sure to whistle
in dixie.
the mima mounds
near tenino.
i’ve been in Westport
surf, Wilbur wheat fields,
and the chaos of racing
commodes at conconully’s
annual outhouse races,
because i lucked into
tv producing years ago,
and turned it into an
excuse to poke around
this fantastic, funky state.
my goal? When you’re in
Washington and someone
asks “are we there yet?”
your answer will always be,
“Yep!”
Researchers in the Netherlands even found that the benefits of vacation
show up during the planning stages; looking forward to a vacation boosts
happiness for eight weeks.
Isn’t that great? I’ve got a plan for worldwide happiness. Let’s all go
away more this year. Spread vacations days out and take long camping
weekends in late summer, when weather in Washington State is
statistically the warmest. Book a winter getaway at Crystal Mountain
Resort where it’s almost always possible to find good snow. Reserve
rooms for storm watching on Long Beach, fly fishing along the Yakima
River, or wine tasting in Walla Walla.
I plan on contributing to the general welfare by taking a bunch of
small vacations and having multiple “outta here” moments. Commit
to fun now, and I guarantee the details will take care of themselves, as
you’re rolling down the road with a big fat smile on your face. Make it so
that whenever taxes, pressure washing the driveway, or company picnics
threaten your sacred weekend, you can honestly respond: “Sorry, no can
do. I’ve got plans!”
This magazine, the one you’ve got in your hands right now is a
potential mega-dose of happy. Getaways, adventures and discoveries
right here in Washington State. Many, many vacations, which properly
spaced, can keep you smiling the whole year. Scenic Washington 2013
provides plenty of good “outta here”.
So get going!
Anne Erickson
Head Writer and Backroads Insider
Scenic Washington State
Favorite places
from scenic Washington insiders
“
Palouse from
Steptoe butte–
spring or fall
Walla Walla–
grape harvest
mountain loop
highway–winter
Prosser balloon
rally–summer
“
i like destinations
where you can
set up a home
base and play
several courses.
bellingham, kitsap
Peninsula, Spokane
and the tri-Cities
are among my
favorites.
tipsoo lake–
summer wildflowers
“
Alpine lakes
Wilderness
multiple-lake
backpacking and
fishing loop hike.
forks, WA salmon
and steelhead on
Washington’s
most scenic rivers.
mt. St. helens
ape caves one
day, summit hike
the next.
Golf Insider
Shutter Stops
richard duval
culled from my frequent
travels around scenic
Washington, my wine,
scenic and landscape
images are found on
note cards, calendars
and bookstores and
numerous gallery
exhibits.
Explorer in
Residence
Oby scout
the Seattle Public
library (with an
exquisite fire hydrant
out front), emP and
the new Chihuly
garden and glass
at seattle center
are hard to beat for
architecture.
While i’m no stranger to a roll in extremely smelly
piles of goo, i prefer places that make me wonder
why. observatories make me realize how little we
know; great works of art, architecture and music
make me realize how much we have to offer.
Pacific Science
Center dinosaurs,
bugs and butterflies
– oh my! fort
Casey Big guns,
saltwater shore and
a lighthouse. nW
trek Wildlife Park
eye to eye with wild
animals and a zip
line too.
Family
Travel Insider
Marcus Yearout
i play golf much like
Bubba Watson… that is
to say i hit the ball, find
it and hit it again. that’s
where the similarity ends
but, hey, you’ve got to
start somewhere!
“
Intrepid Insider
nate Watters
snowshoeing,
snowboarding, fishing
or hiking—you’ll always
find me looking for a
new place to be. i’m a
photographer by trade
and there aren’t many
places i won’t take a
camera, so expect to see
plenty of photos
of my adventures.
Jennifer coleman
i like road trips, as
long as i’m driving. We
camp in a tent (oh, the
humanity!) and seek
adventure in the great
pacific northwest. my
boys have uttered the
fateful words ‘are we
there yet?!’ on many a
trip. oh, and the dog
comes too...
Tap into all of the great
travel insights from
Scenic Washington
insiders at
scenicwa.com/
asktheinsiders.php
“
William Church
Winery Woodinville
lucky 8’s Chinese
restaurant seattle
rhododendron
Cafe Bow
huckleberry’s
natural market
spokane
the black Cyprus
pullman
Wine & Food
Insiders
Adrianne Young
& erik cannella
erik and i weave food,
wine and writing into
our everyday. When not
working our farm, we’re
serving dinner at our
wine country restaurant,
café manson. We live to
find inspiring eateries,
wineries and markets.
Insider Blog
ScenicWA.com 7
this place is for real
Welcome to
Washington State.
It might happen when you ski in the mountains, and then dine at
a desert winery on the same day. It might happen when you see
the Space Needle perfectly reflected in a blue globe of glass blown
by Dale Chihuly.
You couldn’t make up a more incredible combination of scenery
and serendipity than the real stuff that’s right here, ripe for
discovery in Washington State. Honestly, people who have lived
here all their lives can still have jaw-dropping moments—moments
so stunningly gorgeous you can’t even brag about them because no
one would believe the boast. So, welcome to Washington—the state
that can’t wait to blow your mind.
lAy of the lAnd
Western Washington is the reason for the moniker Evergreen State,
though the truth is infinitely more colorful. Sun and sky lights the
Pacific waves a vibrant blue, tulip fields add rainbow hues come
April, and the mood can change from pearly gray to hot pink in the
span of an hour.
Of course there’s green too—hundreds of different shades.
Weather rolling in off the Pacific Ocean bumps up against our
mountain ranges, releasing rain and watering forests so well that the
largest temperate rain forest in the continental United States thrives
here. Western Washington is lush, treed and teeming with life.
our volCAniC PeAkS
A fence of volcanoes divides the state. (Again, can this place be
real?) The Cascade Range stretches from north to south—five active
volcanoes, including Mount St. Helens, which woke up and changed
grant gunderson
it might happen when you’re on a ferry packed
with commuters heading for seattle, and the
captain comes on the intercom and casually
remarks, “there’s a pod of orcas just off the
starboard side of the vessel.” and indeed,
there are orcas swimming southward. and
yes, that is mount rainier in the background.
lives and landforms on a bright day in May just 33 years ago.
Mount Baker, Glacier Peak, Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens and
Mount Adams are such singular peaks, jaded jet travelers push up
the shades and watch for them on the approach to SeaTac.
deSert PlAinS And neArly endleSS SunShine
Desert and sunshine in a state known for its rain? You bet! In
fact it actually occupies about two-thirds of our state’s land
mass. Eastern Washington (or “east of the mountains,” as
everyone here says) is dramatic with wide-open land and big
skies. Nothing compares to emerging from under the clouds
west of the Cascades into the sunny skies and warmth of
territory east of the mountains.
The bounty here is undeniable; pluck a peach in Quincy,
wander a Yakima vineyard and race your shadow along rolling
hiking in WAShington StAte’S enChAntmentS loCAted in the AlPine lAkeS WilderneSS
fields of wheat near Walla Walla. Or marvel at coulees carved
out by an ancient flood that rushed through this land, dropping
boulders as big as houses in its wake. Really.
duAl PerSonAlitieS CAn be A good thing
The magic of Washington is that it has eastern and western,
two decidedly different sides. Such contrast contained in one
state is grand excess, and locals take advantage of the difference.
Western Washingtonians head east for sun and space. Eastern
Washingtonians head west to catch salmon and cool off. And
everybody plays in the mountains when it snows.
yeS, it’S reAl!
So, yes, people commute with whales here. Yes, the Space
Needle really is as cool in person as it looks in all of the
magazine photos. And yes, when you are in Washington you
will have moments so beautiful you’ll hesitate to share them
for fear of disbelief. Here is mine, and I swear on the world’s
largest spruce tree (find it on the south shore of Lake Quinault)
it’s true.
I was sitting on a surfboard out in the Strait of Juan de Fuca
under a steely gray sky with a rainbow. I heard a plop and saw
a salmon arcing out of the water—then another and another.
They were chasing a school of feeder fish, and for a moment I
was surrounded by splashing flashes of silver salmon. So even
as a lifelong Washingtonian, I still had to exclaim, “Is this place
for real?”
Yes, it’s for real. Enjoy!
Anne Erickson, our head writer and ScenicWA.com Backroads Insider
ScenicWA.com 9
Meet the Locals
Northwest Backroads host
Grant Goodeve spotlights the
people that make this state great.
W
hen we moved to the Seattle area in 1989, I had no idea that
one day I would be the host of a regional outdoor/travel
show, Northwest Backroads, which would allow me to explore
the Pacific Northwest and especially the great state of Washington. In all
my years on the road shooting Northwest Backroads one thing remains
constant: the particular beauty of Washington and the unique character
of the people who live here.
W
When it comes to my favorite places to visit in Washington, I am partial to the
mountainous regions, especially the Methow Valley with its wonderful combination
of mountains, valleys, trails, vistas and a variety of recreation. Even still, two of the
best views around don’t require much travel from Seattle: the Olympics to the west
and Rainier to the southeast are easily accessible within a couple hours.
If you want to experience one of the most impeccable views in the world, venture
to Mineral Lake near Elbe and the Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainer National Park.
There you will find a lookout where Rainer looms over the lake. You won’t even need
a camera, as the image will remain indelibly etched in your memory.
While I could recommend myriad places in Washington to visit and explore, in this
article I thought that I’d share some of my favorite people I’ve met along the way; people
who have helped make our video adventures more meaningful and just plain fun. One
thing all these folks have in common is a love for where they live and an enthusiasm for
what they do.
nate watters and charles gurche
Clam Digging with Richard Cameron
Richard Cameron is a razor clam digger we interviewed on the Washington coast at
Copalis Beach near the Iron Springs Resort north of Ocean Shores. He was fanatical
about digging for razor clams. His zeal, along with the short clamming season and brief
window of opportunity for actually finding clams on the beach when the surf receded,
made pinning Richard down for an interview a world-class challenge.
Numerous times, while the camera was rolling and the interview was in progress,
Richard could not help himself and bolted out to the edge of the sea while the tide was
out, wielding his heavy razor-clamming pipe and pounding into the sand like a crazed
Viking. I don’t remember if he got that many clams, but we eventually got the interview
and, of course, plenty of video documenting Richard’s hilariously hyperactive clamming.
I have rarely encountered an individual who would so deserve to enjoy the fruit of his
labors, or in this case, the clams of his labors, in the form of a fine razor clam stew.
ScenicWA.com 11
On the Yakima River with Jack Mitchell
An equally enthusiastic companion was Jack Mitchell, an expert fly-fisherman and
owner of The Evening Hatch guide service that has locations throughout Washington.
On this trip, Jack took us on a float down the Yakima River outside of Ellensburg. The
day was perfect—the sun was bursting out of a clear blue sky, the temperature was in the
mid 70s and the sunlight shot back out of the river in elegant sparks. We shot five shows
that day, a new record. We filmed lots of scenic footage while enjoying an exhilaratingly
relaxing day on the water.
jAck mitchell Aiming to cAtch more fiSh
courtesy grant goodeve
yAkimA river cAnyon
The key ingredient to the energy in these shows was Jack, of course, who had not
been out on the water for several weeks because he had his guide service to run. This
otherwise intelligent middle-aged man began acting like a giddy youngster, especially
when he saw a good place to lay in his line or sensed that a fish was about to strike. It
was like Christmas morning all day long. Our guide flew from one side of the raft to
another casting his line with precision and glee. Catching the fish was only
one element in what was an obviously quasi-spiritual experience. If someone asked me if
I’ve ever seen joy in action, I’d say sure, right there that day on the Yakima River.
Living on Roquefort time with the Monteillets
A few years later on the far eastern side of Washington, I made a startling and important
discovery thanks to Pierre-Louis and Joan Monteillet of the Monteillet Fromagerie just
outside the town of Dayton. There I discovered that one could find true joie de vivre on
a cheese farm. And who knew that making something as mundane as cheese would be
so monumentally fun?
inge johnson
Of course, we should have known something was up when the crew arrived at the
cheese farm and were immediately invited into the owner’s county home for an early
afternoon lunch straight out of A Year in Provence. Amidst laughter, fine wine and
cheese, we were lulled into “Roquefort” time, the region of France where Pierre-Louis
was from. All to say, we almost forgot that we had a show to shoot.
As we headed to the cheese-making facility, we saw sheep and goats everywhere,
along with college-age kids from all over the world working the farm and learning the
cheese trade. Now it was my turn. Under the tutelage of the effervescent Joan Monteillet,
I proceeded to make my first piece of mozzarella. Not quite the same as landing a trout
but satisfying nonetheless—especially because of the Joan’s humor and hospitality.
The whole experience was highlighted by the appearance of my beautiful wife, Debbie,
who tasted and approved my cheesy work and gave me a big onscreen thumbs-up.
Saying “cheese” when smiling for the camera would never be the same again.
Annual Christmas Lighting Festival in December.
When all decked out for Christmas, Leavenworth
takes on the look of a life size snow globe.
Sliding through Leavenworth with the Experts
In Leavenworth, a favorite of anyone traveling around Washington, there were two
people I remember the best. One was a young lad around 10 years old who was part
of our extra casting as we filmed some sledding in the town center. It was a crisp, clear
winter evening and with the golden glow of the street lamps on the snow along with the
festively decorated trees and shops, one would have thought they were experiencing a
live Norman Rockwell re-enactment.
There was great festivity and laughter as the kids barreled down the hill on a variety
of sleds, toboggans and sheets of plastic, and then hustled up the hill only to head down
once again. I stood at the top and watched a group of young sled riders take a few runs.
Then I prepared to take my turn. My young aforementioned friend stood at the top with
me and soberly surveyed the hill. He gave me some sledding advice with the endearing
seriousness that only a kid with years of vast sledding experience could bring.
As I sat down he gave me a thumbs-up and the entire group chanted, “One, two,
three—go!” I had a rush of adrenaline unequaled since my rodeo and ski-racing days.
One big bump, a crash and burn later the cheerful if grim assessment of my 10-year old
expert was, “Wow, he totally biffed!”
ScenicWA.com 13
Just outside of Leavenworth proper is the
Sleeping Lady Resort, owned by Dorothy Bullitt
of KING-TV fame, where I assisted with dinner
preparations in the spacious dining hall with the
head chef, Kenneth MacDonald. To say the least,
Kenneth was focused and enthused about his work
and had the type-A, super-energetic personality
mixed with a good sense of humor that makes
shooting sequences for Northwest Backroads
such great fun.
Kenneth was from Scotland originally, and
since my full name is Grant MacKenzie Goodeve,
Kenneth MacDonald, Executive Chef,
Kingfisher Restaurant & Wine Bar,
along with the fact that I was conceived in
Sleeping Lady Resort
Scotland and that I once played the role of an old
Scottish gold-miner on stage in Seattle, I couldn’t help myself and began to speak
with a Scottish brogue. (After all, I am a classically trained actor!) Before long I was
no longer a television host, but had become “Angus,” chef Kenneth’s cousin and sous
chef from Glasgow.
To say we hit it off was an under-statement. During the on-camera interview where
we discussed creating cuisine from the fresh, organic produce grown right at the
Sleeping Lady Resort, we mainly cut up and cooked up a stew of laughter. For a fleeting
moment, NW Backroads ran the risk of becoming a new hit realty show, “Kenneth and
Angus Make Dinner.”
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tootSie clArke And grAnt goodeve
At the Pass with
Tootsie Clarke
I conclude my tour of favorite folks with
one of life’s greatest treasures, Tootsie
Clarke. Tootsie has run The Eatery on
the North Cascade Highway in the town
of Marblemount since 1982. She built
her reputation for good food and warm
welcomes on 16 hours a day of plain
hard work. And to meet Tootsie is to
encounter someone who glows from
within. She is both warm and sweet
much like her world-famous cinnamon
rolls. But also has a subtle sauciness and
pixie-like sense of humor. If you’ve ever
met her, you’ll never forget her.
One of Tootsie’s main claims to fame,
besides her cinnamon rolls, is that she
opens the mountain pass every year at
milepost 134 when Highway 20 is reopened to traffic. Every spring, Tootsie
can be seen carrying her signature
cinnamon rolls to pass out to everyone
assembled for the gate opening. This
past year, at the age of 90, she brought 90
cinnamon rolls for the crowd and even
confided to me that although she had
just healed from a broken arm injury
incurred during the winter, she could
still push open the gate to the pass.
People Make the Place
It’s not just the beauty, it is the people,
like Tootsie, along with all the many
friends we’ve made along the way, that
make shooting Northwest Backroads and
exploring Washington an ongoing gift.
Grant Goodeve, host of KING 5’s television show
“Northwest Backroads”
courtesy grant goodeve
courtesy sleeping lady
Making Dinner with
Kenneth MacDonald
rediscover
Seattle Fresh
things to
do in the
city we
thought
we knew.
1
2
1. greg vaughn
2. courtesy chihuly MuseuM
3., 4., 5. roseMary Washington
?
3
do you knoW
the locAtionS
of theSe
photoS?
4
5
it’s easy to think you’ve got seattle all figured out,
since so many of its icons have been around for a
while. the space needle just celebrated its 50th birthday,
everyone knows about the flying salmon at the pike place
Market, and yeah, the city shows up in a lot of movies and
tv shows. But this city that’s wedged between salt water
and snowy peaks is as dynamic as its stunning setting;
there’s always something new to discover here. Many of
seattle’s most popular spots have sides few have seen or
new additions that make them even more compelling.
ScenicWA.com 15
1. OLyMpiC SCuLptuRE pARK
2. ChihuLy gLASS MuSEuM At
SEAttLE CEntER
3. piOnEER SquARE
in thE SuMMER
4. piKE pLACE MARKEt
thEAtER’S guM WALL
5. intERnAtiOnAL DiStRiCt
and the massive doors designed
to withstand millions of pounds
of water pressure.
WAterfront neWcomerS
sylvester the Mummy at ye olde
curiosity shop and the otters
at the seattle aquarium have
new company on the seattle
waterfront. the great Wheel
takes visitors up 175 feet in the
air and dangles them 40 feet out
over the edge of the dock it sits
upon. the biggest wheel on the
West coast spins rain or shine
and is a welcome addition to the
seattle skyline. the waterfront is
still the launching spot for argosy
cruises and the popular tillicum
village tour of Blake island. diy
explorers with an artistic bent
must see the olympic sculpture
park at the north end of the
waterfront.
KITSAP TOURS
Just a ferry ride from
Seattle, Kitsap Tours takes
you beyond the city to
explore Bainbridge Island
and the Kitsap Peninsula.
Take the ferry from
Pier 52 in Seattle.
More information and
reservations online at
www.KitsapTours.com
ER
IM
M
When You Go
SW
and judy
wild ADS
HEN YOU
GO
more At the mArket
customers have been able to
meet the producers at pike place
Market since 1907, and no visit
to seattle is complete unless
it concludes with an armload
When
You
Go
of fresh-cut flowers
($8!)
from
Save 45% off admission
the Market. vendors
offering
to Seattle’s
6 must-see
attractions
with Seattle
gleaming produce,
fresh-fromCityPASS. You’ll skip
the-sea goodies
and
artisan
crafts
most
ticket
lines, too.
For more information
are perennial attractions.
For a
and to purchase
more in-depthbooklets
experience,
savor
or vouchers
visit citypass.com.
seattle offers tasting
tours of the
local food producers.
evening ghost tours of the
Market peel back the happy
hustle and bustle of daytime for
a look at this neighborhood’s
darker history. if that seems a
little macabre for your taste, visit
on the first day of spring and
get handed a fresh daffodil for
your lapel—a Market tradition.
another somewhat ickier
tradition near the Market at post
alley, is the Market theater gum
Wall. gross? Well actually, yes.
cnn dubbed it as one of the
World’s germiest attractions.
SeAttle center updAte
if pike place Market is the soul of
the hirAm m. chittenden
seattle, seattle center is its brain.
lockS—unplugged
this stimulating spot is home
commonly called the Ballard
to seattle repertory theatre,
locks, this spot actually got more
A PICK-UP
seattle opera, the seattle storm,
visitors thanMIGHT
the spaceBE
needle
Bumbershoot over labor day,
in 2011 (1,235,000, handily
beating the needle’s 1,200,000,
When You Go Folklife over Memorial day—the
list goes on.
according to the puget sound
the site of the 1962 World’s
Business journal). stroll this
Fair has new additions to show
park anytime to see everything
off as well. chihuly garden and
from pleasure craft to crab boats
glass reaffirms the center’s
locking through from puget
role as a vibrant part of seattle
sound to lake Washington.
culture. this brand new
visit in september and witness
attraction at the base of the
huge salmon fighting their way
CASCADES
space needle is a literal splash
into fresh water toNORTH
spawn;
the
INSTITUTE
of color designed and created
fish ladder has windows
and
can
North Cascades Environby renowned glass artist dale
Learning
captivate kids formental
a long
time.Center,
But
eco-friendly retreat in
chihuly. the exhibition hall and
for a real story toan
tell,
drop
by
in
the heart of the national
Diablo
Lake,
glasshouse surround visitors
mid-november topark
seeonthe
locks
learning adventures
with the free-form beauty, and
laid bare. everyoffers
year,
the
u.s.
for people of all ages
throughoutdrains
the year.
the outdoor “garden” planted
army corps of engineers
at the base of the space needle
the large lock for maintenance
360-854-2599
is such a great photo op that
and barnacle scraping,
revealing
www.ncascades.org
the museum has professional
cell phones, sunglasses and
photographers stationed there
other “treasures” boaters have
to snap surreal portraits or give
dropped overboard. this annual
free tips on the best places to
draining also reveals the tunnels
grab them yourself. try to see it
used to fill the locks with water
RA
A newcomer to the Seattle
waterfront, the great Wheel
has already proven to be one
of downtown’s most popular
attractions. photo by jamie
TO
P HO
BY
LA
at night, when the displays are lit
and it is even more fantastic than
during a daytime visit.
also, the center house got a
makeover and is now the seattle
center armory. the carnival fare
is gone (sorry, orange julius
lovers), but the easy vibe remains.
the armory is a great place to
grab anything from a wood-fired
bagel (eltana) to a basmati rice
bowl (Bigfood). it’s now a perfect
refueling stop for excursions to
the seattle children’s Museum,
the science center, Key arena
or the many other venues here.
seattle center just celebrated
its 50th birthday and is entering
middle age brilliantly.
the Chihuly Exhibition hall
and glasshouse should be at or
near the top of your “to do” list
while at the Seattle Center.
photo courtesy chihuly garden and glass
Ryan Hawk
Get real close to animals
at Woodland Park Zoo!
Woodland Park Zoo is located just minutes north of downtown Seattle. Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., October - April.
For information on Real Close tours, call 206.545.2022 or contact our tourism office at [email protected].
Visit www.zoo.org for directions and information.
ScenicWA.com 17
When You Go
to Seattle’s 6 must-see
attractions with Seattle
CitypASS. you’ll skip
most ticket lines, too.
and to purchase
booklets or vouchers
visit citypass.com.
the deco style of the Monorail stands in
stark contrast to Frank gehry’s design for
the Experience Music project.
photo howard frisk
43%
6 famous attractions
- Good for 9 days
- Skip most ticket lines
ONLY
the jetSonS meet
kurt cobAin
no spot marks the juncture of
old and new seattle more
perfectly than where the seattle
center Monorail meets the
experience Music project and
science Fiction Museum.
the famously controversial
building housing the museum
was designed by architect Frank
gehry; it looks like someone
fused a few chihuly sculptures,
melted a guitar over the top of
it all, and then punctured it with
a Monorail tunnel. Within the
eMp, find everything from the
command chair from the starship
enterprise, to a stratocaster
destroyed by Kurt cobain. it’s
a perfect convergence of pop
culture and promises to transport
any sci-fi or music geeks into a
state of bliss—especially if they
arrive via Monorail!
SeAttle, the movie StAr
Finally, an excellent way to knit
many of seattle’s iconic spots
together is with a silver-screen
tour of the city. here’s a preseattle visit suggestion: have
a “shot in seattle” film festival
(we recommend a slumber party
with plenty of popcorn and
viewing Sleepless in Seattle, The
Fabulous Baker Boys, Singles,
Say Anything and, of course, It
Happened at the World’s Fair,
starring elvis and the monorail).
download reel life in seattle
(www4.seattle.gov/filmoffice/
docs/map.pdf), for a self-guided
cinematic tour of seattle’s silverscreen spots. see the Sleepless
in Seattle houseboats (a ride
the ducks tour takes you right
by them), the places where
elvis rocked and rolled, and
the apartment that housed the
20-somethings in Singles.
space Needle
seattle Aquarium
Argosy Cruises harbor Tour
Pacific science Center
Ages 4-12
74 $49
$
As applicable, prices include washington state
sales tax and/or city of seattle admissions tax.
Buy at these attractions
Connect with CityPASS
(888) 330-5008 or citypass.com
eMP Museum
your choice of woodland Park Zoo
or The Museum of Flight
ATLANTA | BosToN | ChiCAgo | hoLLywood | housToN | New york CiTy | PhiLAdeLPhiA | sAN FrANCisCo | seATTLe | souTherN CALiForNiA | ToroNTo
estimated prices for the 2013 program year. Prices and programs subject to change.
Found in the
South
Sound
there is a world
to explore
between
Seattle and
tacoma.
here’s a radical idea:
next time you’re hankering
for a day-cation or are flying
to or from Washington via
Sea-tac Airport, book an
extra day or two nearby,
and poke around the
communities from Seattle
Southside to tacoma
(www.seattlesouthside.com).
there’s far more to this
place than the 33 million jet
passengers a year coming
and going. Visitors can
touch historic hydroplanes,
experience outer space or
stroll the world’s largest
private collection of
automobiles. they can bury
their toes in the sand and
watch the sun slip behind
the Olympic Mountains.
they can hit a smokehouse
that will have them eating
with their hands, or order a
martini at a local institution
that would impress Sinatra.
tAcomA nArroWS bridge
ScenicWA.com 19
Airways Brewing Company in Kent
(or its bistro if kids are in tow) for
craft beers like Final Departure and
Sky Hag IPA.
All kinds of eats
LeMay: America’s Car Museum in tacoma courtesy lemay car museum.
transportation museums
put the AWe in Awesome
2013
11th Annual
Studio tour
September
21-22 & 28-29
Studios Open 10am to 5pm
Gala Opening Reception
Friday, September 20
4pm to 8pm
Historic Train Depot
210 Railroad Ave
Centralia, WA
ARTrailsofSWW.org
Maybe it’s the proximity to Sea-Tac
Airport or maybe it’s the restless nature
of Pacific Northwesterners, but the
cities south of Seattle contain many
monuments to movement. Defy gravity
at the Museum of Flight, and boldly go
where many astronauts have gone before
at their new Space Shuttle Trainer.
If skimming across the water at 200
mph in a boat powered by a helicopter
engine is more your speed, take in the
Hydroplane and Raceboat Museum in
Kent, the only museum in the country
solely dedicated to thunderboats.
The newest addition
to the travel museum
triangle is LeMay
America’s Car Museum
in Tacoma. The can’tmiss-it building is
curved like a hood
scoop, and contains
one of the biggest
public collections of
automobiles in the world.
Top off a day of geeking out
on transportation with a visit to
Franchises abound here, but if you
want to eat like a local, try one of these
culinary adventures. Quarter Chute
Café at Emerald Downs is where the
groomers and jockeys eat. Come for
breakfast and watch thoroughbreds
parade by the picture windows on their
way to training.
Caveman Kitchen in Kent has been
making meat delicious with smoke for
40 years and is a secret local carnivore
spot. Stuck waiting for a red-eye flight?
Cab over to Thirteen Coins. This darkly
ambient restaurant is open 24/7, serves
delicious surf and turf standards, and
has cocoon-like bar chairs that have
sheltered weary travelers since 1967.
Finally, Copper Leaf at Cedarbrook
Lodge is so passionately local, Executive
Chef Mark Bodinet grows veggies and
cultivates a mushroom patch on the
grounds of the lodge. These morsels end
up sublimely prepared and plated at this
award-winning restaurant.
Save lots of time to play
For folks who prefer speeding, flying
or floating, this region is home to
a whirlwind of active attractions.
Experience free fall without jumping
out of a plane at Tukwila’s iFly, a
vertical wind tunnel where anyone
can experience flight.
Carve some figure eights or play
a round of putt-putt golf at the Kent
Valley Ice Centre. Wild Waves in Federal
Way has added zip lines and high
divers doing stunts to its already
mad mix of roller coasters, wave
pools, lazy rivers and deathdefying waterslide drops.
PGP Motorsports Park in Kent
is go-carting for the hardcore:
Its Italian-built racing carts
can reach speeds of 50 mph.
Speedsters 15 years old and
up can rent and fly around the
different tracks. Younger folk can
take a required safety class, and then
drive fast.
Zen-out in our great gardens
Public gardens in this region are a mini
tour of the Pacific Rim. Experience the
four essential elements of a Chinese
garden—water, stone, plants and
architecture—at The Chinese Garden
at South Seattle Community College.
Its Knowing the Spring Courtyard
was hand built by Chinese artisans;
the swooping roof lines and serene
plantings within will transport you
across the Pacific.
The Highline SeaTac Botanical
Garden features the Seike Japanese
Garden in addition to a rose garden, an
iris testing bed and a sensory garden.
Plus, it’s right under a runway approach
at Sea-Tac, so the low-flying jets add
sound and spectacle.
The Weyerhaeuser corporate campus
in Federal Way is home to the Pacific
Rim Bonsai Collection, a display of
more than 50 bonsais, some far older
than the state of Washington. Also on
campus is the Rhododendron Species
Botanical Garden, which is absolutely
stunning when blooms peak around
Mother’s Day.
Soos Creek Botanical Garden
and Heritage Center in Auburn is
a newcomer on the public garden
scene in this region. A 500-foot-long
perennial border, a heritage center
with displays about this area’s farming
history, and a well-stocked nursery
make Soos Creek a perfect spot to
while away a few hours on a Saturday.
Saltwater beaches Abound
Dash down to Dash Point State Park
in Federal Way where you’ll discover
wide expanses of sandy beach, camping
and 11 miles of trails to explore. The
boardwalk at Redondo Beach in Des
Moines is the perfect spot to linger as
the summer sun sets.
Saltwater State Park is another place
to get a beach fix, with more than a
thousand acres of trees, trails and sandy
beach. Rumor has it an ax is buried
beneath a tree somewhere here; park
founders did it to symbolically “bury
the hatchet” on the rivalry between
Seattle and Tacoma. Ask a ranger.
Federal Way
It’s Naturally Unique
Discover the Natural Beauty
of Federal Way
Centrally located between Seattle and Tacoma, Federal Way offers a wealth of
opportunities to explore nature at its finest. Bird-watch along the West Hylebos
Wetlands nature trails. Hike and bike forest trails or beach-comb at Dash
Point State Park. Explore the world-class Rhododendron Species Botanical
and PowellsWood Gardens, and marvel at the living art of the Pacific Rim
Bonsai Collection. Grab fresh fruit and flowers at the Farmers Market.
Federal Way’s economical accommodations and convenient location to
Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens and the Olympic Peninsula make it
the perfect place to base your Western Washington travels.
Come stay and play in Federal Way!
West Hylebos Wetlands
253-874-2005
www.hylebos.org
Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden
253-661-9377
www.rhodygarden.org
PowellsWood Garden
253-529-1620
www.powellswood.org
Pacific Rim Bonsai Collection
253-924-5206
www.weyerhaeuser.com/Company/Bonsai
Federal Way Farmers Market
253-261-8157
www.federalwayfarmersmarket.com
Courtyard by Marriott
253-529-0200
www.courtyardseattlefederalway.com
Hampton Inn & Suites Federal Way
253-946-7000
www.seattlefederalwaysuites.hamptoninn.com
PLAN
YOUR
VISIT!
For more tourism information,
go to www.visitFW.org
or call 253-838-2605.
City
ScenicWA.com 21
tacoma Art Museum (left) courtesy tacoma art museum; Washington State history Museum and Museum of glass in the background (right). photo stephen matera
top it off in tacoma
Take the World-Renowned
BOEING TOUR
SEE OUR SUPER
MODELS
WORK THE RUNWAY.
800.464.1476 • Futureofflight.org • 8415 Paine Field Blvd • Mukilteo • WA
From I-5 North or South, take Exit 189 to State Hwy 526 West
Second fiddle to that city to the north
no longer, Tacoma is a bustling urban
center that still feels homey. Check
out the city’s Museum District. These
places are not only key parts of Tacoma’s
downtown core, they are key shapes in
the skyline. The Cone (The Museum of
Glass), the Dome (Washington State
History Museum) and the Curve (LeMayAmerica’s Car Museum) are hard to miss
markers in the local landscape.
Also be sure to visit the Children’s
Museum of Tacoma, the Tacoma Art
Museum, and the Foss Waterway Seaport.
Hungry and in a hurry? Frisko Freeze
on Division is a legendary local burger
takeout hut. Abundant seafood-and-view
restaurants line Ruston Way.
Also, don’t miss Tacoma’s Stadium
District, home to the W.W. Seymour
Botanical Conservatory, and Stadium
High School, a splendid 107-yearold school perched on a cliff above
Commencement Bay that bears a striking
resemblance to Hogwarts.
It’s possible to get so busy in the
cities south of Seattle that you miss that
Space Needle photograph entirely. Don’t
worry; we won’t tell anyone–that’s what’s
postcards are for.
A Retail
Odyssey
Our Backroads Insider
explores the best exits
for shopping success.
by Anne Erickson
I’m the kind of traveler who avoids retail
in favor of random. As a result, I’ve dragged my
family to many funky spots with which they were less than
thrilled—like Starbuck, Washington: 75 miles of detour
that culminated in a couple of farms, a closed diner and a
sign that did indeed say “Starbuck” (“You owe me a white
chocolate mocha” was the refrain from the backseat).
So when I got the assignment to explore
shopping opportunities along I-5 between
the Canadian border and Lynnwood, I
knew I needed help. I recruited my sister
from Los Angeles because she’s sassy and
my 13-year-old daughter because I needed to
atone for previous road trips.
ScenicWA.com 23
Exit:
NExt
iNg
ShOpp
H
eading north on Interstate-5
we began our shopping odyssey
with the idea of heading up
north to the Washington/U.S. border
and stopping at retails hot spots as we
traveled south.
open air couture
Exit 200
Seattle premium
outlets in tulalip
As soon as we saw parking spaces at
Seattle Premium Outlets, we knew we had
to abandon our original idea of speeding
up to the Canadian border.We bailed off
of northbound I-5 at Exit 200 (signs say
to use Exit 202, but overshooting and
then doubling back puts you at the less
crowded north entrance). At the entrance,
a family happily posed for snapshots in
front of a sign—this is a destinationshopping trip for a diverse population of
deal seekers from throughout the Pacific
Northwest and Canada.
The stores at this open-air mall (grab
your jacket) are in the high-end range;
shoppers prowl for finds at Burberry,
Kate Spade and Juicy Couture. My sister
found gifts at Gap, while my daughter
coveted Uggs at Journeys. Then we
headed out, patting ourselves on the
back for hitting this mall early enough to
avoid the crush. That was when we heard
the dull roar coming from the Coach
store. That was when the sales lady
handed us the 30 percent off coupon.
That was when reason abandoned us.
A half an hour later we emerged from
the store aglow with three new purses.
My non-smoking sister fanned her
flushed cheeks. “I need a cigarette,”
she muttered.
international Flair
Exit 276
blaine, birch bay
and bellis fair
That urge satisfied, we got back to our
original plan and drove all the way up to
the end of I-5. 276 is the last exit before
Canada. Travelers passing over the
border for more than 48 hours can shop
at the duty-free shops in Blaine offering
alcohol, tobacco, fragrances and jewelry.
Exit 256
bellis fair
The closest big shopping
stop is Bellis Fair Mall at Exit 256, 20
miles south of the border in Bellingham.
It was so crowded my companions
threatened to use the kiddie train in
the mall as a taxi but decided against
it when the conductor informed them
the ride would cost $7. Instead they had
their brows shaped at Macy’s, one of
the mall’s anchor stores. Target, Kohl’s,
JCPenney and a theater also flank this
mall, making it a go-to spot for families.
Get the most BANG for
your get-away buck!
Visit LYNNWOOD
just minutes
north of Seattle.
Duty Free Americas
Stop, Shop, & Save
BEFORE visiting Canada
Looking for legendary
shopping? Come to
Lynnwood, and visit
Alderwood Lifestyle
Center with over 175
shops and restaurants
featuring the latest
fashions and unique
gifts. Stay overnight so
you don’t have to do it
all in one day. Rates in
Lynnwood are 40% less
than Downtown and
parking is free!
www.LynnwoodTourism.com
or call 425-670-5040
for more information
Bellingham’s only Full-Service Hotel
· Spacious rooms and suites
· Two restaurants (Café and
Neighborhood Pub)
· Indoor pool/hot tub
·
You’ll enjoy savings on
·
Spirits, Wine, Beer, Tobacco,
LynnwoodTourism_SCWA13
Fragrances,Cosmetics,
·
Watches, & so much more!
·
Currency Exchange available
20 - 12th Street
Blaine, WA 98231-4029
360-332-5223
www.dutyfreeamericas.com
DutyFreeAmericas SW12 1_6v.pdf
Fitness center
Free parking & shuttle
1_6v.pdf
Complimentary Wi-Fi
Pet friendly
· Meeting space for 10 to 600 people
· Outdoor Covered Patio with Firepits
and Swanky Seating
· Voted Best Place to Stay in Bellingham,
Best Happy Hour and Best Cocktail
· Located in heart of City Centre
714 Lakeway Drive (I-5 Exit 253)
Bellingham, WA 98229
888-671-1011 or 360-671-1011
[email protected]
www.TheLakewayInn.com
BWLakeway SW13 1_6v.pdf
tempting detour
Exit 255
Sunset
mt. baker highway
If there’s one activity that could have
caused us to bail on this mission, it is
the lure of Mt. Baker. Legendary for
snowboarding, world-record snowfall
and awesome summer hikes, this exit
tried to lead us astray but we stayed
true to our purpose and sojourned on.
antiques to
Boutiques
Exit 250
bellingham
fairhaven
Lakeway Drive. Speaking of Sojourn,
we discovered a really cute little
clothing and jewelry shop by that
name in downtown Bellingham. The
downtown core is filled with hipsterto-kitschy shops and eateries. A nice
stop at Woods Coffee on Holly Street
near the old town antique district,
provided a welcome respite from our
day’s journey. And get this, there was
a rocket ship in the parking lot across
the street… no kidding.
Exit 253
Brett Baunton
ScENic
dEtOuR
NExt tRip
before our next stop off Exit 229. There’s
not a lot of cover between The Outlet
Shoppes at Burlington, so fortify with a
warm beverage.
Vancouver, B.C.-based Lululemon
Athletica was on my sister’s list—she’s a
fan of its yoga-inspired workout wear.
I found a canvas shirt at Filson for my
stepdad for just $37. The Nike outlet
interested my daughter enough for a
trek through the blustery night, but after
that we were ready for a meal and some
warmth. We could have slipped indoors
for some shopping at nearby Cascade
Mall, but we had one more region to hit
before closing time.
grand plan
Exit 181
Alderwood mall
lynnwood
After a little less than an hour of driving
south, Exit 181 took us to Alderwood,
one of Washington’s biggest shopping
centers. The seafood dinner at Anthony’s
and the fireplace blazing at the north
entrance gave us a second wind.
As we powered through H&M
and Urban Outfitters and escaped
Nordstrom by ducking under the
metal door as the store closed, all we
really wanted was more time and more
disposable income. We wrapped up
at Daiso Japan, where we purchased a
lucky cat statue, a scrubbing cloth for
the shower, a hanger with panda faces
on it, a set of fake eyelashes, and a bowl
with “I eat a lot” printed on the side.
Grand total: $5.
next exit
home
retail roadtrip:
final rest Stop
We had mobbed four malls in 12 hours.
And I learned that a single interstate,
a handful of good deals, and two game
companions can make for a hell of a
road trip.
fairhaven/
chuckanut drive
Continuing just a couple miles south,
we encountered the charming little
village of Fairhaven. It has a lot of
historic significance to the region
and is filled with 1890s flair. Boutique
shops, a great bookstore called Village
Books, and restaurants aplenty line
the streets. There is a cruise terminal
at the edge of town where you can
catch a ride to the San Juan Islands
or a ferry to Alaska. Fairhaven sits at
the northern entrance to Chuckanut
Drive, a national scenic byway, so if
you want to take a break from freeway
driving, this is one humdinger of
an option and will rejoin I-5 at
Burlington.
good sports
Exit 229
the outlet Shoppes
at burlington
Fortunately I bought my daughter that
white chocolate mocha I owed her
ScenicWA.com 25
colvillechehalis
chinook dosewallips
d u c k a b u s h
duwamishhama
hamaKlickitat
lummiMakah
M e t h o w n e z p e rc e
nooksackokanogan
puyallupQuileute
Quinaultsauk
seattlesemiahmoo
s h u k s a n
skagitskokomish
skookumchuck
s k y k o m i s h
s n o h o m i s h
s n o q u a l m i e
spokanesquaxin
stillaguamish
s u i a t t l e
suquamishsumas
ta c o m a tu l a l i p
WallaWallaWapato
WhatcomWishkah
Wynoocheeyakima
the
Native
State
“She Who Watches” (“tsagaglalal”) native American pictograph overlooking the Columbia River near
horsethief Lake; Columbia hills State park, Columbia River gorge, Washington. photo greg vaughn
the names of our indigenous tribes fill this land
along with the people and traditions they carry.
no other state in the nation has
more major cities with native
american names than Washington.
these names illustrate how deeply
native culture is woven into the
fabric of this state’s past and
present. Whether staring into the
eyes of “she Who Watches” on
the banks of the columbia river
or screaming down a waterslide
at the great Wolf lodge —
which is majority owned by the
confederated tribes of chehalis—
many Washington experiences
are linked to native culture,
whether you know it or not.
the culture of the coASt
Go to Neah Bay, home of the Makah
Tribe, for easy surf breaks at Hobuck
Beach Resort and a one-of-a-kind
day hike to Cape Alava, Washington’s
extreme northwest tip. This is also the
takeoff point for hiking legendary Shi
Shi Beach, named best nature beach
by the Travel Channel. Visitors to the
Makah’s land must purchase a $10 per
car recreational pass (it lasts a year).
They’re available at many businesses in
Neah Bay, including Washburn’s General
Store where you can browse the wares
at the northwestern-most mercantile
in the continental United States. For a
culture/nature double feature, take the
cutoff near Sekiu to Lake Ozette, hike
out to Ozette Beach, and then go to the
Makah Museum in Neah Bay to see the
artifacts recovered from the site of the
oceanfront village.
Further south along Washington’s
coast is La Push, home to the Quileute
Nation. Whaling and fishing sustained
the tribe for thousands of years, and
today thanks to a pop culture blip called
Twilight, La Push has been shoved into
the national spotlight. But once the
movies are a memory, La Push will still
have wild beaches, abundant saltwater
fishing, and a vibrant tribal culture that
has nothing to do with werewolves
and vampires.
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ScenicWA.com 27
roseMary Washington
traditional events demonstrate countless centuries of culture and history. Seafair powwow at the Daybreak Star indian Cultural Center, Seattle
the legendS of the WeSt
Anytime someone shucks an oyster or
digs clams on the Hood Canal, they’re
experiencing what sustained native
people here for centuries. Some tribes
in this area even built floating shelters
they could move with the tide—and the
food. And there are those names again.
Rivers called Hama Hama, Duckabush
and Dosewallips. Further south, near
Shelton, the Squaxin Island Tribe
Museum Library and Research Center
shows why the Squaxin are called “The
People of the Water.”
The Mima Mounds near Little
Rock are uniform humps that dot the
prairie south of Olympia. The origin
of these mounds remains a mystery,
but one thing is certain: Layers of ash
are present in the mounds, because
native people cleared the prairie with
controlled burns and then harvested
the roots of the Camas that thrived
there after the competing plants were
scorched. Visit in spring for the best
wildflower show, and see the purple
Camas that still thrives today.
Chief Sealth’s grave in Suquamish on
the Kitsap Peninsula is another spot
that illustrates just how intrinsically
the Northwest’s past and present
are linked. The city of Seattle took
its name from Sealth, a leader with
Duwamish and Suquamish ancestry
who was both a fierce warrior and
skilled negotiator. Born in 1780, he
could have been a young lad playing
on the beach to witness the arrival of
Captain George Vancouver in 1791 and
lived to experience the settlement of the
city that bears his name. Sealth died in
Suquamish—his father’s homeland—in
1866. His gravesite, which was renovated
in 2011 in a joint effort by the Suquamish
and the city of Seattle, recounts Sealth’s
life in two story poles and retains the
marble gravestone that was erected
in 1890. Both native and non-native
pilgrims still regularly visit the resting
place of this important leader.
Nearly every beach, forest and river
in western Washington can tell you
something about the first inhabitants of
this state, but sometimes an interpretive
center can condense the story. And if
you visit just one, make it the Tulalip
people’s new Hibulb Cultural Center.
Tribal elders and leaders were asked
what they’d like to see in a cultural
center, and the result is the Tulalip
story told in the words of the Tulalips
themselves. Listen to recordings of tribal
storytellers in an interactive longhouse,
and see artifacts like historic canoes and
baskets stained with decades of berry
gathering. A 50-acre nature preserve
surrounds the center with salmon-bearing
streams, mature evergreens and plants
important to native culture.
Salmon are one of the things that
eastern Washington and western
Washington tribes have in common.
This important food source is a vital part
of tribal traditions on both sides of the
mountains. Salmon habitat protection
and restoration are paramount to all
Washington tribes, and they work jointly
with federal and state government to
manage salmon fisheries. Walk newly
dried-up reservoirs and see salmon
returning to a newly freed river at the
Elwha Dam removal sites. Or visit the
Leavenworth Fish Hatchery in spring,
and watch tribal families harvesting
spring run Chinook from traditional
wooden platforms, much like their
ancestors did.
FOUR-DIAMOND
LUXURY
Indulge in the luxury & entertainment of Tulalip.
Unrivaled amenities, impeccable service, award-winning dining
and the most excitement in Washington State are all part
of your unforgettable four-diamond experience.
R E S E R VAT I O N S : 8 6 6 . 716 . 716 2
T U L A L I P R E S O R T. C O M
ScenicWA.com 29
The desert plateaus, river valleys and
rolling hills of eastern Washington are
Indian country in every sense of the
phrase. The city of Yakima is named
for the Yakama Nation (spelled with
an “a”)—a people whose original lands
stretched from Canada down to The
Dalles. By all means, visit The Yakama
Nation Cultural Center (the structure is a
replica of a Yakama winter lodge), one of
the older tribal museums in the state. But
consider staying in a teepee at the Yakama
Nation Resort RV Park and heading
into the hills to glimpse the wild horses
that roam Yakama lands. For horses
of a different color, look for the herd
galloping atop a ridge just out of Vantage.
Grandfather Cuts Loose the Ponies is a
sculpture depicting an Indian creation
tale of the Grandfather Spirit freeing
horses, which represent free will, from
the basket from which all life springs.
One of eastern Washington’s most
famous geological features—Steptoe
anne ericKson
the lAndS of the eASt
roseMary Washington
“grAndfAther cutS looSe the ponieS”, creAted by ArtiSt dAvid govedAre,
SitS on A ridge high Above the columbiA river neAr vAntAge.
Butte—served as a scouting post near
the battle site in Rosalia. The 3,600-foot
summit offers stunning views of the
gorgeous Palouse wheat fields—think
“amber waves of grain.” Near Walla Walla,
the Whitman Mission National Historic
Site and Fort Walla Walla offer a glimpse
at the conflict filled past of this region.
In northeast Washington, the Spokane
Tribe called themselves “Children of
the Sun” long before tourism boosters
grabbed ahold of the concept. Rent a
houseboat at Twin Rivers, and appreciate
that placid Lake Roosevelt was once a
rushing river that provided salmon and
life to its people. A visit to the Grand
Coulee Dam is not complete without
a trip to the Colville Tribal Museum
to learn about the human and cultural
impact of the dam.
SR-155 winds out of Coulee Dam and
through hills strewn with monumental
boulders left behind by glaciers.
Watchful drivers will see Root Diggers
out in a field—a sculpture by Colville
artist Virgil “Smoker” Marchand. A rest
stop in Nespelem features yet another
Marchand sculpture—Chief Joseph,
who led a small band of Nez Perce under
pursuit by the U.S. Army from Oregon
into Canada before being exiled to the
Colville reservation.
But Indian culture in Washington is a
living, breathing thing. Stand on a beach
along the Paddle Journey route (2013’s
journey is Paddle to Quinault) and listen
as singers welcome each canoe. Touch
a cedar’s rough and
useful bark, and
thank the next
salmon that feeds
you. In Washington,
discovering Indian
country is not a
matter of where you
look; it’s a matter
of how you see what
surrounds you.
power trips
Stunning spots
that generate a
lot of juice.
We’re the number one hydroelectric producer
in the nation, and we come in sixth on wind
power. here’s the really good news: Many
energy-producing places are in stunning
parts of the state, and most offer free tours.
to hang your head over the edge of the
grand coulee dam or lay your hand on one
of those mighty windmills along i-90, read on.
hydro hangouts
The Grand Coulee Dam is the Big Kahuna of destination
power plants. Built during the Great Depression and
completed in 1944, it’s still the biggest hydroelectric plant in
the United States and among the largest concrete structures
in the world. Coulee Dam, the company town surrounding
the dam, occupies three counties (Grant, Okanogan and
Douglas) and is home to the world’s largest man-made
sand pile, a leftover from dam construction. Backwaters
from inundated portions of the Columbia River by our
hydroelectric dams are now some of Washington State’s best
recreational destinations. Lake Roosevelt, which stretches
151 miles upstream, and Banks Lake downstream from
Grand Coulee are both prime playgrounds for boaters and
campers. The Grand Coulee Dam Visitor Center is open
year-round, but for a closer look take the free tour that’s
available April through mid-October—it’s the only way to
actually get on the dam. Our guide spun such a dramatic
tale of this grand dam that the bus erupted into spontaneous
applause at tour’s end. (www.usbr.gov/pn/grandcoulee/)
Boundary Dam is literally the end of the road in
northeast Washington. Despite its remote location on the
Pend Oreille River, Seattle City Light welcomes visitors
to the dam between Memorial Day and Labor Day and
provides free lakefront camping with a good dam view
(sorry, couldn’t be helped). Launch a boat on the reservoir
behind Boundary Dam to see spectacular waterfalls,
beaches and caves that can only be accessed from the water.
Snoqualmie Falls, located in the foothills of the Cascades Range east
of Seattle, features the world’s first hydropower plant built completely
underground. Begun as one man’s vision to harness the energy of one
of the pacific northwest’s most powerful waterfalls, the 112-year-old facility will provide 22% of puget Sound Energy’s self-owned hydroelectric
capacity this year. photo jamie and judy wild
ScenicWA.com 31
jaMie and judy Wild
roSS lAke nAtionAl
recreAtion AreA,
diAblo dAm
g
Dinin
dams destroyed
Another Washington dam superlative:
North Olympic Peninsula is home to
the biggest dam removal project in
North America. The demolition of the
Elwha Dam (completed in 2012) and
the Glines Canyon Dam (will be done
by mid-2013) on the Elwha River is
expected to restore salmon runs and
return the river to its wild state. A short
(wheelchair-accessible) walk off SR-112
leads to a viewpoint of what was the
Elwha Dam.
Take a right turn on westbound US101 after crossing the Elwha, and walk
The North Cascades Highway (SR-20)
doesn’t just have massive mountain
views—it’s got three dams, Gorge, Diablo
and Ross Lake. The smallest, Gorge
Dam, is an easy detour in Newhalem
and can be visited year-round. Walk
across the suspension bridge to the
Gorge Powerhouse Visitors’ Gallery and
the short, steep hike alongside Ladder
Creek Falls. A colored light show that
bathes the falls in color was recently
restored, adding a retro vibe for night
visitors. Drive across Diablo Dam and
take in 1920s architecture coupled with
ife
Wildl
staggering mountain and lake views.
Further upstream is Ross Dam,
accessible by boat or hike from the
highway. Take Seattle City Light’s boat
tour and see the island where the man
who built these dams, James D. Ross,
kept pet monkeys back in the 1920s.
(www.seattle.gov/light/tours/skagit/)
Natural beauty
our
T
t
a
e Bo
Lak
o
l
b
a
Di
Hiking
on what was the bottom of Lake Aldwell,
the Elwha Dam’s reservoir.
Windmills
While driving I-90 from Ellensburg to
Vantage, it’s hard to miss the tall, white
towers with blades spinning in the everpresent winds. This is the Wild Horse
Wind and Solar Facility, where free daily
tours (April through November) take
visitors inside these behemoth wind
turbines. Visitors can pace along a blade
on the ground for perspective on the
sheer size of these power generators.
The nearly 10,000 acres of shrub steppe
desert these monoliths stand upon
are open to mountain bikers, hikers
and hunters if they fill out an access
permit at the center. Wildflowers begin
blooming in April, and any time of year,
the turbines add a surreal touch to the
Columbia Gorge views. Visit the pse.com/
inyourcommunity then select “Kittitas”
for tour information.
Experience
the North
Cascades
Take a Skagit Tour or
explore on your own.
Explore the beauty, adventure,
learning and fun in the North Cascades.
North Cascades National Park
Enjoy summer learning and recreation.
www.nps.gov/noca or 360-854-7200
North Cascades Institute
To learn more about what awaits you in the magical
North Cascades, visit www.skagittours.com
or call 360-854-2589.
Connecting people, nature and community
through education since1986.
www.ncascades.org
or 360-854-2589
Photo credits: Rick Allen, David Astudillo, John Harter, Elizabeth Penhollow & NEllen Regier
peak experience
Get the most
out of winters
in the Evergreen
State by heading
for the white stuff.
Skiing in the mt. bAker Ski
AreA bAckcounty, north
cAScAdeS WAShington
photo grant gunderson
“There’s snow in the mountains!”
That’s a phrase that’s music to the
ears of many Washingtonians. It
appears to state the obvious, but
anyone who’s been here during a
cold, rainy spell in the fall has seen
the magic. The rain stops in the
night, the day dawns bright and
clear, and mountain peaks that
were dark green now gleam white,
sporting their first dump of snow.
If you listen carefully, you’ll hear,
“Woooo-hoooo!” echoing across the
state. That’s the cry of native snow
lovers, a species that’s nowhere
close to extinction in Washington
since there’s plenty to sustain them.
ScenicWA.com 33
crystal mountain
has it All
Washington has 11 major ski areas
and many more if you count small-town
ski hills. The bulk of these are spread
along the spine of the Cascade Range
with a few notable exceptions tucked
away on the state’s eastern edges. Crystal
Mountain on the northeast flank of
Mount Rainier is Washington’s biggest
ski resort and often is the first to open
its lifts when the snow arrives.
Crystal is also the only Washington
ski resort to offer abundant onmountain accommodations. They range
from condos and standard hotel rooms
to pension-style, shared-restroom
arrangements above the very Europeanfeeling Snorting Elk Cellar & Deli. Even
if you’re not a skier or boarder, Crystal
is a fantastic winter destination; it
doesn’t get much better than enjoying
a fireside pint and
then hopping on
the Mount Rainier Gondola for a
cozy 10-minute ride to the summit.
At the top, skiers will speed off into
Green Valley or cross over to North
Way. Or gear geeks will drop into the
new RDL (Rossignol, Dynastar, Lange)
Test Center to demo state-of-the-art
ski equipment. But no skis are required
to dine at 6,872 feet at the Summit
House Restaurant—or to take in the
magnificent view of Mount Rainier from
this spot.
going Strong at 50!
If you visit Crystal during the
2012-2013 season, bring a present
or at least sing “Happy Birthday” as
you wind up Crystal Mountain
Boulevard. This venerable resort is 50
years old and continues to get better
with age. Three new snowcats carve the
slopes into corduroy, and now you can
enjoy a mid-day botana from the new
street-style taco truck parked at the base
area. Ski and board rentals, retail shops and
restaurants spread out from base to peak
round out this friendly resort area. There’s
also a ski school—many a Washington
kid made their first “pizza” at Discovery
at Crystal.
Suffering from a
Seasonal maladay?
We have many other ways to cure all
sorts of seasonal disorders here beneath
the 49th parallel when the days get short
and the weather gets gloomy. The good
citizens of Conconully beat winter blues
by pushing potties down snowy streets
every January: 2013 marks the 26th
running of Conconully’s Outhouse Races
(www.conconully.com/outhouseracing.php).
WAShington Ski AreAS
49 degrees north
chewelah
www.ski49n.com
509-935-6649
mount Spokane
spokane
www.mtspokane.com
509-238-2220
bluewood
dayton/Walla Walla
www.bluewood.com/pin
509-382-4725
White pass
yakima
skiwhitepass.com
509-672-3101
mission ridge
Wenatchee
www.missionridge.com
509-663-6543
Skiing in the cAScAdeS hAS been A fAmily
AffAir for generAtionS. StevenS pASS Ski
reSort (Above) photo by jamie and judy wild;
AlpentAl Ski reSort (top) photo by stephen matera
Nothing beats soaking in a hot spring
as steam rises and snow falls. Intrepid
snow hikers can reserve a soak at remote
Goldmyer Hot Springs near North Bend
(www.goldmyer.org). Folks who eschew
reservations can seek out a soak at
Baker Hot Springs. For a more civilized
take, try a vintage-style soak at Carson
Mineral Hot Springs Resort or a luxe
one at Bonneville Hot Springs Resort—
both located in the Columbia River
Gorge National Scenic Area.
Smaller Slopes
are family favorites
Want some winter fun on a budget?
Consider Washington’s lesser known ski
hills; Echo Valley in Chelan will set you
back $25 per adult ticket, and Badger
Mountain Ski Area near Wenatchee
costs a whopping $10.
Hurricane Ridge in the Olympics is
the only ski area in Washington that’s
located within a national park, and it’s
also a fabulous place to cross-country
leavenworth Ski hill
leavenworth
www.skileavenworth.com/locations/ski-hill
509-548-6975
ski. Rangers at the Ridge also lead free
snowshoe tours on winter weekends.
Workout bonus: Going up requires just
as much skill and sweat as going down
when you’re clinging to a rope tow
(www.hurricaneridge.com).
For generations, families have flocked
to Leavenworth for the Christmas tree
lighting and other holiday festivities, but
to many, the main draw is the tubing
hill at the edge of town. Cross-country
skiing and snowshoe trails are also
plentiful here in little Bavaria.
Ice skate outdoors under stars and
snowflakes at the Winthrop Ice and
Sports Rink. And during any wintertime
trip to Leavenworth, don’t forget to
throw a saucer in the trunk—there’s a
small sledding hill smack in the middle
of town.
Don’t hole up just because the sun sets
early and the weather’s wet and cold.
Get outside and enjoy that Washington
winter—light therapy works best when
it’s reflected off freshly fallen snow!
Stevens pass
leavenworth
www.stevenspass.com
206-812-4510
loup loup
twisp/okanogan
www.skitheloup.com
866-699-5334
north cascade heli-skiing
Mazama/Winthrop
www.heli-ski.com/blog
800-494-heli
mount baker Ski Area
Bellingham/glacier
www.mtbaker.us
360-734-6771
hurricane ridge
port angeles/olympic national park
hurricaneridge.com/
360-565-3131
the Summit
seattle/snoqualmie pass
www.summitatsnoqualmie.com
425-434-7669
crystal mountain
enumclaw/Mount rainier national park
crystalmountainresort.com
360-663-2265
ScenicWA.com 35
When in
Wine
Country
An insider’s guide to touring vineyards
and tasting rooms like a champ.
By AdrIAnnE yOunG
As restaurant owners who live in wine country,
Erik—my husband/business partner/driver/master of illusion/chef—
and I are required to go wine tasting more often than not. When we
travel, we make a point of visiting local wineries, because if wine is a
language, each region has it’s own accent. In other words, if we really
want to know an area, we taste its wine. Even if we really don’t want
to know an area, we taste its wine.
Chefs Erik Cannella and Adrianne young weave
food, wine and writing into their everyday. When
not working their farm, they’re serving dinner at
their wine country restaurant, Café Manson.
photo top, greg vaughn: rows of wine grapes at
sagemoor vineyards along columbia river, columbia
valley, washington
While we enjoy visiting wineries, wine tasting for us is exactly like watching football on
TV—it is either a delightful way to pass the time or pure hell. In both wine tasting and
football, one’s capacity for enjoying the activity depends on whether one likes the subject
or if you’re simply there because your spouse has an enthusiasm that will not be tamed.
Here is how we
approach wine tasting...
even when we’d rather
be watching football.
It depends on who is in control
of the mute button.
The biggest misconception about both
wine tasting and football is that you have
to appear to know what is going on and
that you must talk about it endlessly. Oddly enough, the more you know about wine or
football, the less you want to talk about wine or football and the more you simply want
to let wine or football happen without listening to someone else chatter about it.
Plan to meet your basic needs.
No one ever turns on the game without putting the wings in the oven and chips on the
table. Why should it be any different when venturing off to a few wineries? Have a meal
plan before you have a wine tasting plan. Pack water and a snack because there will be a
moment when you’re just not going to want to bother talking about where or what to eat.
When we’re in Walla Walla, we pick up cured meats and pickles from Olive
Marketplace and Café just in case we can’t get to a lunch spot. In the Chelan Valley, call
Fromaggio—a great little cheese shop that will pack you a picnic basket. Many wineries
in Washington encourage picnics.
Reservations not required but a good idea.
If you don’t have a place in mind for dinner, ask around while
you’re out wine tasting. When you receive a suggestion that
you trust, call and make a reservation right then and there.
At 6:30 p.m. wine country restaurants get attacked by wine tasters without reservations,
so if you want to eat at 7 p.m., ensure yourself a table.
Create a Route.
The idea of casually hopping from winery to winery is romantic but, on the whole,
completely impractical. Erik and I find that unless we have a plan, things go awry
quickly. When we don’t have a route, we’re either looping around in gravel driveways or
arriving at tasting rooms that are closed for the day. In the back roads of wine country,
many marriages are tested and countless vacations are threatened.
More than wine! Be sure to round out your
wine tasting experiences with some of the
local attractions in wine country. horseback
riding, white water rafting and golf are all great
ways to spend a few delightful hours between
tasting rooms.
ScenicWA.com 37
38 scenic Washington STATE 2013
Or just make one stop.
Washington’s Premier
Family Owned Winery
Celebrating 30 years
of Great Wines
r i f fi n W i n e r y ™
© 2 012-13 , B ar n ar d G
©2013, Barnard Griffin Winery™
Determine a tasting route that starts furthest away from your starting point and leads
you back. Make sure the wineries are open on the day you plan to visit.
We plan for four wineries, which allows for wiggle room if we get a heads-up about a
new winery that we must try.
When in Woodinville, our last stop is always at William Church Winery because
it often has appetizers, music or an activity beyond tasting. Plus, it’s right next door
to Purple, an excellent restaurant. Live music at Gilbert Cellars on Friday nights in
downtown Yakima is the perfect end to a tasting route because we can sit, relax and
simply enjoy each other’s company.
All New db GLASS GALLERY
All New TASTING ROOM
All New WINE BAR
All New PATIO
TASTING ROOM
Open Daily: 10am-5pm
WINE BAR
Tuesday - Thursday:
4pm-9pm
Nectar in Spokane pours wine from five different Washington State wineries.
The Tasting Room in Pike Place Market is an excellent option if you’re on the west side
of the mountains.
Friday & Saturday:
Noon-9pm
Sharing the love.
LIVE Music most
Weekends
Here’s a little secret about tasting: It’s OK to share a tasting glass. Most
wineries charge a tasting fee and then refund that fee if you buy a bottle. But
according to the winery owners we’ve talked to, the tasting fee barely covers
the cost of the wine they’re pouring let alone scraping lipstick from the glass
rims. So it isn’t as if you’re lowering their profit by sharing your flight glass with
your date, and as an added value, you can think of it as foreplay.
Sunday:
Noon-5pm
878 Tulip Lane
Richland, WA 99352
509.627.0266
[email protected]
Come fly with me.
Don’t like the idea of tasting fees? Alaska Airlines has teamed up with a host of wineries in
Walla Walla, Tri-Cities and Yakima Valley that won’t charge you at tasting fee if you present
them with your inbound boarding pass. Tasteandtote.com lists the details, but given that on
your return trip they won’t charge a baggage fee for a case of wine, it’s worth looking into.
If you fly into the Tri-Cities, make a point of getting to Red Mountain’s Fidelitas, where
you’ll find the definition of a Washington cabernet sauvignon. Maryhill and Columbia
Crest are a must visit for the simple fact that they’re gorgeous and you’ll look gorgeous
at the tasting counter.
Play against the blitz.
It’s a given that you’re going to be outnumbered by the wines you want to try while
remaining upright. Here’s our strategy in tasting: We know we like sauvignon blanc, and
we know that our friends love malbec. Immediately, we buy a bottle of both and forgo
tasting them at the winery.
This strategy saves us a tasting fee and eight ounces of wine a tour and sets us up to
spend that eight ounces at dinner. It’s also a great way to compare wineries at leisure.
While I know it seems excessive to open three bottles of malbec at once, with the right
friends, it makes for a fantastic dinner party.
20 minutes on the clock isn’t 20 consecutive real-life minutes.
In this sense, winery time and football time are exactly the same. You think you’re
going to breeze in for a tasting, and then an hour later, you’re
not any closer to leaving than when you walked into the
place. For this exact reason, we do not make plans to meet
up with friends mid-tasting. There is no possible way of
ad proofs.indd
knowing when we will be done at a particular winery.
Washington Winery
of the Year
-2009 Wine Press NW
Over 1000 Awards in 10 Years
37 wine portfolio
Tasting Room & Gift Shop
Free Live Music All Summer
Open 10am - 6pm
7 days a week
Phone: 877-MARYHILL
www.maryhillwinery.com
1
9774 Hwy 14
Goldendale, WA 98620
ScenicWA.com 39
When You Go
The only exception to this rule is on Bainbridge Island,
where everyone can recite the ferry schedule in their sleep.
Tell the fine folks at Eleven Winery that you have a ferry
to catch, and they’ll breezily pour your flight with the
perfect timing.
Anything can happen in 9 seconds.
There have been tasting tours when Erik and I have seen
some highs (Wineglass Cellars in Zillah) and some lows. But
All AdventureS
rAfting
you never know when you’re going to pull up to a shack in the
Choose between five
middle of nowhere and find a glass of wine that downright
of the premier rivers in
Washington and Oregon
changes the way you think about wine. Ventimiglia Cellars
States. River Rafting trips
are 1/2 day, all day or
in Chelan was one such place. One late summer afternoon, we
overnight expeditions and
lots of fun!
drove the gravel road and wound past towers of apple bins to
White Salmon, WA 98672
a little shed. It had been a long day and there were certainly
1-800-74-FLOAt
spots with more shade to be had. Less than an hour later, we
www.
alladventuresrafting.com
found ourselves dancing, laughing and drinking a red blend
that tasted like an amarone.
linktoplAy
That’s the payoff of wine tasting. Like there are field goals
you’ll never forget watching, there are wineries you’ll never
forget visiting. While there will be endless commentary in
both, the fact of the matter is you can never predict when
CAVE B yuRtS near quincy and
the gorge Amphitheatre
you’ll score. Adrianne Young, ScenicWA.com Wine and Food Insider
Your guide to
places I mentioned.
—Adrienne Young
Olive Marketplace and Café
21 e. Main st., Walla Walla
509-526-0200
www.olivemarketplaceandcafe.com
Fromaggio
145 e. Wapato Way, Manson
509-888-6452
www.fromaggiomanson.com
William Church Winery
14455 Woodinville-redmond rd.,
Woodinville
425-482-2510
williamchurchwinery.com
Gilbert Cellars
5 north Front st., yakima
509-249-9049
www.gilbertcellars.com
nectar
120 n. stevens, spokane
509-869-1572
drinknectar.com
The Tasting room Seattle
1924 post alley, seattle
206-770-9463
tastingroomseattle.com
Maryhill Winery
9774 highway 14, goldendale
877-627-9445
www.maryhillwinery.com
Eleven Winery
287 Winslow Way e., Bainbridge island
206-780-0905
www.elevenwinery.com
Fidelitas
TourismWallaWalla_SCWA13_1_3sq.pdf
51810 n. sunset rd., Benton city
509-588-3469
www.fidelitaswines.com
Wineglass Cellars
260 north Bonair rd., Zillah
509- 829-3011
www.wineglasscellars.com
Ventimiglia Cellars
20 howser rd., chelan
425-466-2788
www.ventimigliacellars.net
Think
300 days
of sunshine
adventure
escape
oasis
getaway
wine
water
golf
sports
gourmet
Think
Spokane
Seattle
Tri-Cities
Kennew ic k | Pasc o | R i c hl a n d
P. O. B o x 2241
Tr i- C it ie s , WA 99302
( 800) 254-5824 (509) 735-8486
w w w. V is it T RI- C IT IES. com
w w w. G o l fW in eC ount r y. com
Okanogan
6
2
4
Port
Angeles
Colville
Whidbey Island
1
3
Ocean
Shores
Seattle
Tacoma
5
Long Beach
7
Coulee Dam
Spokane
Wenatchee
Yakima
8
Pullman
Tri-Cities
Walla Walla
Vancouver
hit the
Road
8 GReat Scenic Road tRipS
that guarantee adventure is
always on the horizon.
the road trip might be
a national pastime, but
it’s been perfected in
Washington. there is no
better way to explore the expanse
of this corner of the country than
from behind the wheel with the
road leading the way, along the
coast and through fields, to the
most spectacular sites in the Pacific
northwest. there are dozens of
scenic drives on our map that any
state would be happy to boast. For
the purposes of this guide, we have
selected our favorite eight. starting
with a tour of Puget sound’s ferry
cruises, these trips will show off this
state’s greatest treasures, from quaint
island life to majestic mountains. as
you pass through the lush rain forests
and astounding desert landscapes
you will find unforgettable landmarks
that reveal the history of this land,
and you will meet the people who
are paving the way for a bright future.
Point your headlights to the horizon.
there’s a world to discover.
North CasCades highway
(washiNgtoN (state route
20) aNd early wiNters spires.
42 alan
scenic
Washington state 2013
Photo
majchrowicz
1
2
1. Water Byways
Hop aboard a Washington State Ferry
to tour our most unique (and officially
designated) Scenic Byways. paGe 44
2. North puget sound
& island loop
3
This section of the Cascade Loop will take
you through tiny waterfront communities
onto Whidbey Island and by Skagit Valley
tulip fields. paGe 46
3. pacific Coast
Travel our Pacific coastline to get a
glimpse of wild, untamed beauty.
Seastacks and wide open beaches await
at every turn. page 51
4
4. North olympic peninsula
From Victorian Port Townsend you’ll
follow the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Cape
Flattery with a detour to Hurricane Ridge
in the Olympic National Park. paGe 56
5
5. Mt. rainier
This road to Paradise may not be paved
with gold, but the grandeur and majesty
of Mt. Rainier National Park cannot be
overstated. Towering waterfalls and
thousand year old stands of cedars are
just the appetizer. paGe 61
6. sherman pass to
pend oreille Country
Dig for fossils in Republic then cross
one of our highest mountain passes to
Washington’s “hidden” treasure along
the Pend Oreille river tucked up in the
northeast corner of the state. paGe 67
6
7. Coulee Corridor
7
Gouged out by massive glacial floods
a mere 16,000 years ago, this is hands
down Washington’s most unique visitor
experience. Grand Coulee Dam and Dry
Falls are a must. paGe 71
8. palouse scenic Byway
Another creation of the Lake Missoula
glacial floods, the gentle hills and dales
of the Palouse were once mere ripples of
the giant river that flowed here centuries
ago. A visit to Palouse Falls and a drive
to the top of Steptoe Butte should not be
missed. paGe 75
View all our
state and
national
Scenic
Byways.
8
Photo credits
1. stePhen matera
2. bart rulon
3. marcus yearout
4. jamie and judy Wild
5. inge johnsson
6. donnelly austin
7. john marshall
8. bigstock
scenicwa.com 43
sCeNiC Byway 1. WateR ByWayS
q
q
ferry
cruise
guide
Washington is a
state with abundant
opportunities to
experience water, and
the fun isn’t just reserved
for folks who own boats.
Washington has the largest
state ferry system in the
United States, and those
ubiquitous green-and-white
boats are an excellent budget
cruise—no route in the state
costs more than $7.70 to
walk on and ride round trip.
Plus, every seat in the house
has a great water view. Each
ferry run in the Puget Sound
reflects the personality of the
community it serves.
www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
The ClassiC
seattle to
Bainbridge island
afloaT: Sunrise
paints the Olympics
pink; sunset does
the same for the Seattle skyline.
Watch cruise ships, cargo vessels
and tour boats navigate the waters
of Elliot Bay.
aboard: Commuters; the ones
with shorts and blinking lights
attached are bike commuters.
Blend in with locals by bringing
a laptop.
washiNgtoN state Ferry headiNg to the saN JuaN
islaNds. washiNgtoN state Ferry routes are part oF
the state highway systeM, aNd MaNy are desigNated
oFFiCial state sCeNiC Byways. Photo stePhen matera
ashore: The Great Wheel, Pike
Place Market and the Olympic
Sculpture Park on the Seattle
side. On Bainbridge, walk about a
quarter-mile up from the ferry, to
find on-trend Winslow. Shops like
Danger (jewelry and furniture)
and Petit and Olson (clothing,
cool stuff) have that off-thebeaten-path cachet, and Greg
Atkinson’s Restaurant Marché
offers local fare prepared with a
French accent.
The naval
offiCer
seattle to Bremerton
afloaT: Same views
as “The Classic”, but they
last longer during this 60minute crossing. Keep an eye out
for sea lions sitting on the buoys
outside Rich Passage.
aboard: Puget Sound
Naval Shipyard workers and
servicemen, commuters living
on the Kitsap Peninsula. Blend in
with locals by bringing reading
material for the long boat ride.
ashore: Bremerton’s newly
parked-out waterfront is adjacent
to its downtown core. Tour the
USS Turner Joy, a Vietnam-era
Navy destroyer, or learn what
life’s like aboard an aircraft carrier
at the free Puget Sound Navy
Museum.
The Charmer
edmonds to Kingston
afloaT: All those
buoys north of the
Edmonds dock mark
an underwater park for divers.
Salmon fishermen in all manner
of watercraft near both ferry
docks in late summer are always
entertaining.
aboard: Shift workers at
Boeing’s Everett plant, road
trippers heading to the Olympic
Peninsula. Blend in with the
locals by riding a motorcycle onto
the boat.
ashore: Edmonds has
excellent sandy beaches,
restaurants on the waterfront
and boutiques. In Kingston, grab
a lunch at J’aime les Crepes or
handcrafted ice cream in flavors
like fig and goat cheese at Mora.
scenic Byways
water Byways
When You Go
Adventure Quest
KAyAKing tours
Whale-watching kayak
tours in the prime orca
whale waters. Day trips
to Lime Kiln Whale Watch
Park and camping expeditions to outer islands.
Expert guides, small
groups, families welcome.
360-378-5767 or
888-589-4253
www.sea-quest-kayak.com
The Thriller
Port Townsend
to Keystone
afloaT: Weather blowing
in through the Strait of Juan
de Fuca, and the ferry passing
through a narrow passage at the
Keystone dock, can make this an
exciting ride
afloaT: You may see
members of resident
Orca pods in the late
spring and summer. Inter-island
walk-on travel on this route
is free.
aboard: Truckers, residents,
and tourists in the summertime.
Blend in with the locals by
knitting, busking or critiquing
the captain’s vessel-handling skills
while docking at Keystone.
aboard: Tourists and
extremely relaxed islanders. Blend
in with the locals by stuffing your
car with provisions from the
mainland—bonus points for an
appliance tied to the roof. Look
cooler than the other tourists by
walking on with your kayak.
ashore:Port Townsend is the
arts hub of the North Olympic
Peninsula. Walk the downtown
and discover all things boating at
the Northwest Maritime Center.
Visit Fort Casey and hike the
beaches of Ebey’s Landing near
Coupeville on the Keystone side.
The islander
Mukilteo to clinton
Mystic seA chArters
Mystic Sea Charters
Guaranteed Whale
Sightings, Five star
rating! See the whales,
the wildlife and the San
Juan Islands aboard the
classic 100ft. Mystic Sea.
Excellent indoor and
outdoor viewing,
onboard naturalist, marine
mammal education focus.
1-800-308-9387
www.mysticseacharters.com
orcAs islAnd
eclipse chArters
Cruise aboard world
famous “Orcas Express”
for great whale watching
& historic lighthouse tours.
Professional naturalists.
8368 Orcas Road
Orcas, WA 98280
800-376-6566
www.
orcasislandwhales.com
The odyssey
Anacortes to the
san Juan islands
afloaT: Calm waters
in the lee of Whidbey
Island and brand new jets
from Boeing’s nearby production
facility overhead.
aboard: Commuters,
commercial trucks and folks
seeking island life. Blend in with
the locals by taking advantage of
Island Transit.
ashore: Mukilteo Lighthouse
Park, Diamond Knot Brewery
and Alehouse, and an Ivar’s
on the mainland. Also, a
rich collection of aviation
attractions nearby might justify
a short drive. Clinton is the
gateway to Whidbey; enjoy the
waterfront park at the ferry
landing and merchants selling
everything from homemade
soap to barbecue nearby. A
loop home via Deception Pass is
recommended if you have the time.
ashore: Don’t overlook
Anacortes in the hurry to get
to the San Juan ferry terminal:
Downtown is a perfect lunch
stop, and to really get the lay of
the land, drive up to Cap Sante
Park for a 360-degree view.
lopez island is the first stop on
the route—locals call it “Slowpez.”
This is the most laid-back and
rural of the San Juans. Lopez
Village has a handful of eateries
and shops to explore; cyclists
flock here for the annual Tour de
Lopez in April.
shaw island is the smallest island
with a ferry stop, and if you
visit, don’t be startled if you see
a nun running a tractor: Shaw is
home to Our Lady of the Rock, a
Benedictine monastery that farms
to support itself.
san Juan island bustles with
activity in the summertime.
Friday Harbor is the hub of this
archipelago, and a jumping-off
point for whale watching, kayak
excursions and island tours.
orcas island is the largest of the
San Juans and home to Moran
State Park, Washington’s fourth
largest—don’t miss the views of
the surrounding islands from
atop Mount Constitution.
The GeTaway
West seattle to Vashon island/
southworth and Tahlequah
to Point defiance
afloaT: Nearby Blake
Island State Park has paddle-in
campsites and splendid views
of Seattle.
aboard: Intrepid Vashon Islanders
who have figured out how to live in the
country and work in the city. Blend in
with the locals by being friendly—this is a
neighborhood ferry.
ashore: Bike onto the boat and enjoy
a vigorous pedal to Vashon, about five
miles south of the ferry dock. In town, the
Hardware Store serves “great good food” in
a building that once housed, you guessed
it, a hardware store. Further up the road in
Burton, duck into the Vashon Island Coffee
Roasterie for a dose of caffeine and island
culture. Utilize the ferry at the south end of
the island, and this trip becomes the scenic
route to Tacoma—that ferry delivers riders
to Point Defiance.
Spike
Africa
Join theAdventure!
Aboard a classic windjammer and see the
San Juan Islands from the deck of our
historic sailing vessel.
Day and Sunset Sails, Extended
Voyages, Special Events, Weddings and
Private Charters.
360.378.2224
Spike Africa
sails from Friday Harbor
www.SanJuanSchooners.com
scenicwa.com 45
Tulips to
Tidepools
& a touch of
the mountainS
sCeNiC Byway 2. noRth puGet Sound & iSland loop
enjoying the entire cascade loop requires a 2–3 day
commitment so choosing just the western portion
may be a better fit for your schedule. this snohomish
county, whidbey island and skagit county loop,
a great day trip, will take you through seaside
communities, tulip fields and into the foothills
of the cascade mountain range.
skagit Valley tulip Field iN at MouNt VerNoN duriNg the
aNNual tulip FestiVal iN april. Photo inge johnsson
scenic Byways
North puget sound
& island loop
region’s reputation as an aviation hub.
Tour the mighty Boeing plant at the
Future of Flight Aviation Center,
or visit Historic Flight at Kilo 7 and
the warplanes of the Flying Heritage
Collection for a historical perspective on
taking to the air.
Fidalgo islaNd, Mt erie oVerlook
start iN Mukilteo
Money Magazine ranked Mukilteo
ninth in its 2011 list of best towns to
live in. Between the Puget Sound views,
the waterfront park, and charming
downtown, it’s easy to see why the
town ranked so high out of a field of
100. Mukilteo also delivers for anyone
interested in learning more about this
charles gurche
relax iN laNgley
The Mukilteo ferry delivers cars to
Whidbey Island every day on the halfhour. After getting off the boat in tiny
Clinton, follow signs to the village of
Langley, which overlooks the Saratoga
Passage and has eateries, bookstores,
galleries and coffee roasters. Langley
is also on the Whale Trail; the town is
one of the best land-based gray whale–
watching spots in the state. Look for
them February through May, and if you
see one spout, don’t forget to ring the
town’s whale bell.
soak iN the history
Continue northward on Whidbey
through Greenbank, home to a farm
of the same name that’s famous
for loganberry wine and pie. Find
another patchwork of farms on Ebey’s
Landing—some have been here since
the mid-1800s. Today this narrow
saddle of island is the first national
historic reserve in the United States.
Stop in nearby Coupeville, one of
the oldest towns in Washington, and
pick up a walking tour map of the
more than 50 buildings listed on the
National Registry of Historic Places.
Visit the “Big” City
Penn Cove, the body of water on
the east side of Ebey’s Landing is the
home of the famously tasty Penn
Cove mussel. Look for them at many
Island groceries; most restaurants that
serve seafood have them on the menu
as well. Oak Harbor is Whidbey’s
biggest city, thanks to nearby Naval
Air Station Whidbey Island. The town
has a wonderful, driftwood-strewn
waterfront and hosts Driftwood Day
every September. Participants use
C
L
LaConner
HANNEL
ODGE
ESCAPE TO LA CONNER
“It’s our Pleasure to Spoil You!”
SnohomishCo_SCWA13_1_3sq.pdf
Snohomish County! Seize fun and adventure!
Just 30 minutes up the road from Greater Seattle is a treasure trove of
opportunity that’s waiting to be discovered. A unique collection of
communities where the anticipation of adventure meets the thrill of
discovery. All with hotels up to 40% less than Seattle!
Come on up... to Snohomish County!
www.snohomish.org
888.338.0976
www.laconnerlodging.com
360-466-1500 or 888-466-4113
*Deluxe Accommodations
*Spa Services
*Museums
*Wine Tasting
*Shopping
*Fine Dining and MORE…
scenicwa.com 47
scenic Byways
North puget sound
& island loop
sNow geese FloCk Near Mt. Baker eVery wiNter. Photo By Bart rulon
planninG tipS
This loop involves a 20-minute
ferry ride from Mukilteo to Clinton,
so check the ferry schedule before
setting out (www.wsdot.wa.gov/
ferries/). Bring hiking boots, beach
gear, and a cooler to cram full of
mussels and farm stand produce.
diStance: 136 miles
tRavel time: 5 hours, but this
trip could nicely fill a full day.
BeSt time: Any time of the year.
April is the best for seeing fields of
flowers near La Conner.
BeSt foR: Beaches and
lighthouses, acres of farmland, and
logging towns in the foothills. This
drive serves up Washington State
icons from ferries to forests and
delivers travelers back into the city
in time for dinner.
aSk the inSideR
Richard duval
Photo ops abound:
Mukilteo Lighthouse
next to ferry to
Whidbey Island’s
Farmer’s Markets; the
view from Comfort’s
winery; beach pics at
Ebey’s Landing; late
light on Coupeville;
Deception Pass (fog
on bridge is way
cool); farm country
in Skagit Valley; boat
and driftwood pics on
Camano Island.
www.scenicwa.com/blog/
guide/shutter-stops
whatever they find on the beach to create
a sculpture, and winners get trophies
made of—you guessed it—driftwood!
Nearby, the PBY Memorial Foundation
Naval History Center features a behemoth
amphibious seaplane and other displays
that put Whidbey Island’s proud military
history in context.
Cross to la CoNNer
The crown jewel of Whidbey is Deception
Pass; the dramatic cliffs spanned by the
two bridges are so scenic that people often
park their cars alongside the road and
recross the bridges on foot to better see
the roiling water below. Take the short
hike down to Bowman Bay on the north
side of Deception Pass to put toes in the
sand one final time on this road trip.
After SR-20 meets Fidalgo Bay and
takes a hard right at the light, look for
another right turn onto Reservation
Road and head south—this road will
take you through the Swinomish Indian
Reservation and into picturesque La
Conner via its iconic bridge. According to
legend, it’s orange because that’s the color
the primer paint was, and the locals liked
the bright color so much they just kept
it that way. Adding further confusion, it’s
called the Rainbow Bridge. La Conner has
long been home to a charismatic mix of
fisherfolk, loggers and artists.
The Shortest Distance to Far Away ®
Enter to
win an island
getaway!
Free maps, guides, lodging and event info at
WhidbeyCamanoIslands.com
explore skagit’s Best
Farm roads grid the Skagit Valley, and
they all pass big barns, turn-of-thecentury farm houses and fields of flowers
in spring—it’s hard to pick a bad one. But
leave La Conner on Chilberg Road, and
then take a right onto Best Road, which
will take you past the Rexville Grocery.
Stop here. There’s a generous counter
with stools for visiting, milk chocolaty
Aero bars, escargots in the freezer and a
tiny coffee roaster on the counter. Settle
in, chat up the owners, Stuart and Joyce
Welch, and have a “Why not quit my job
and move here?” moment. Best Road
becomes Fir Island Road; duck off into
miniscule Conway to do some browsing
before getting on the interstate. Located
at the end of town, The Conway Muse is
a former dairy farm that now houses one
of the neatest music venues in the area.
Good food and service are guaranteed.
scenicwa.com 49
courtesy oF boeing
Future oF Flight aViatioN
CeNter aNd BoeiNg tour
to grasp the size of the Boeing everett
plant, look for an employee entrance. see
that dot down there? Now take a moment
to let your mind adjust to the scale. pretty
big huh? on the tour, see jet fuselages
in flight before they have wings, learn
how many parts a 747-400 has (6 million)
and watch workers pedaling around the
plant on
transportation
tobikes—required
Seattle’s 6 must-see
for negotiating
the
biggest
attractions
with
Seattlebuilding by
CityPASS.
You’ll
skip
volume in
the world.
get
advance tickets
mostat
ticket
lines, too.
for the tour
www.futureofflight.org.
see our adand
on to
page
22.
purchase
When You Go
MIGHT BE A PICK-UP
When You Go
RA
SW
IM
M
ER
booklets or vouchers
visit citypass.com.
TO
P HO
Owned by Upper Skagit Indian Tribe
BY
LA
NORTH CASCADES
INSTITUTE
North Cascades Environmental Learning Center,
an eco-friendly retreat in
the heart of the national
park on Diablo Lake,
offers learning adventures
for people of all ages
throughout the year.
Fly fishermen and idyllic family farms are among the common sights you’ll
encounter throughout Snohomish and Skagit Counties. Stillaguamish River
shown above. top photo stephen matera; bottom photo anne erickson
360-854-2599
www.ncascades.org
More Rewards...
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for Great Deals!
• Two Hotels
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On I-5 at Exit 236
One Hour North of Seattle
theskagit.com • 877-275-2448
Casino opens at 9 am daily. Must be 21 or older with valid ID.
take the detour
Dip onto southbound I-5 just long
enough to take Exit 208 to Arlington,
a small town tucked in a fork of the
Stillaguamish River (the Stilly if you’re
local). The charming downtown is home
to Bistro San Martin, a well-reviewed
fine dining gem that serves worldinspired local cuisine—reservations are
a good idea. If you want to see where
some of the ingredients come from, take
the Red Rooster Route, a self-guided
ramble to local farms. Follow Jordan
Road along the river to Granite Falls,
the gateway to the magnificent
Mountain Loop Highway.
wrap it up with retail
It’s always fun to wrap up a long road
trip with a little retail therapy. Try
Snohomish for charming antique stores
and boutiques in old brick buildings,
or relax over an order of Mick Jagger
Fries (sweet potatoes with brown sugar,
naturally) on the riverfront deck of
the Fred’s Rivertown Alehouse and
watch others shop. Or if something a
little more urban is calling your name,
head west from Snohomish via SR-96
to intersect with I-5 at Mill Creek and
then south to Lynnwood, a retail mecca.
Find everything from the delightfully
specific (The Root Beer Store) to the
all-encompassing (Alderwood, one of
Washington’s largest malls), and pick up
something to take home.
The Hidden coast
3. pacific coaSt sCeNiC Byway
at first glance… it looks simple. there it is beckoning
blue on the left side of your map—the Pacific ocean.
But if it were just a matter of pointing the car west
and driving, this travel planner wouldn’t exist.
washington’s coast does not have a major highway
hugging its every curve like another coast to the
south we won’t mention here.
Pacific Coast
Hidden Coast
Cranberry Coast
seCoNd BeaCh iN olyMpiC NatioNal park at low tide. Photo inge johnsson
scenicwa.com 51
scenic Byways
pacific Coast
planninG tipS
Grab rain gear and a change of
shoes—and maybe a clam shovel.
diStance:
• Olympia to Aberdeen: 49 miles
• Hidden Coast:
41 miles
• Cranberry Coast:
48 miles
(add another 48 miles if
traveling on to the Pacific
Coast Scenic Byway)
tRavel time: 3 hours for each
beach, a full day for real exploration.
BeSt time: Year-round, and room
rates are generally a bit lower
during the winter storm-watching
season—one of our personal
favorite times to visit.
BeSt foR: Beachcombing,
Rainforests, Waterfall Trail,
Sand Castles, Kite Flying,
Fishing, Lighthouses, Surfing,
Clam Digging
aSk the inSideR
Jennifer coleman
The big decision is do we stay & play
on the beach all day or climb to the
lighthouses? Explore the bunkers of
an old military fort or hike the coastal
forest? Don’t miss Long Beach &
Cape Disappointment State Park.
www.scenicwa.com/blog/guide/
family-travel-insider
liNktoplay
FUN AT OCEAN SHORES
Watch this and let the planning begin!
loNg BeaCh peNiNsula. Photo jamie and judy wild
Washington’s coastline plays hard to get,
teasing with a glimpse of sea and then
jogging eastward along a prime oyster
bay. The reward for patient travel?
A love affair that will last the rest of
your life.
take a hike
To truly explore the roadless parts
of Washington’s north coast, grab a
backpack, a tide chart, and a camping
permit from Olympic National Park
and get hoofing. You’ll use fixed ropes to
climb over headlands, watch seals hunt
in breaking waves, and touch images
carved in stone by people who lived
here long ago.
This area, the Olympic Coast National
Marine Sanctuary, is the longest stretch
of virgin coastline in the United States.
And it’s a bucket-list hike. (See north
Olympic Peninsula for more about
Washington’s north coast).
If a resort sounds better than a
rucksack, US-12 from Olympia is the
fastest drive to the most ocean options.
Aberdeen is the junction for two different
journeys with one thing in common:
They’re Washington State scenic byways
that offer many opportunities to plunge
bare feet into the chilly Pacific.
ride oN a retro road
Head north through Hoquiam to find
the Hidden Coast Scenic Byway. Al’s
Hum-Dinger, right where SR-109 jogs
hard left, fries a tasty burger if anyone’s
hungry. Hundreds of thousands of
shorebirds feed at the Grays Harbor
National Wildlife Refuge during spring
migration. April and May are the best
times to see these birds darken the sky
with their numbers.
Ocean Shores was a big deal back in
the 1960s. Nightclub owners flew stars
in for grand openings; Pat Boone took
up residence and hosted celebrity golf
tournaments. Today this town retains
that ’60s vibe—maybe it’s those retro
signs on the way into town. Drive the
beach, paddle the freshwater canals,
or rent a scooter. The Quinault Beach
Resort & Casino is a spot to drop some
discretionary dollars, and campers pack
nearby Ocean City State Park during
razor clam digging weekends.
Copalis has remote appeal and plenty
of mom-and-pop motels with pathways
through the dunes to the ocean. Visitors
often erect driftwood markers or put
up glow sticks at night to mark the trail
where they emerged, so they can find
their way back after walking this stretch
of beach.
Another curious feature of this place:
ghost trees. These long dead gray snags
along the Copalis River are ancient
evergreens that died when flooded by
salt water after an earthquake in 1700.
No adult drive to Copalis is complete
without a stop at the Green Lantern Pub.
During razor clam digs, expect to find
guys selling clam guns in the parking lot
and diggers dressed in garbage bags for
waterproofing playing shuffleboard and
enjoying pitchers.
The wide, sandy beaches continue
as 109 winds northward. Camp on
the waterfront or hole up in a yurt at
Pacific Beach State Park. In January,
look for glass balls that have been
“planted” on the beach. In September,
celebrate Kelper’s Day. At road’s
literal end is the village of Taholah
and the Quinault Indian Nation. Visit
www.quinaultindiannation.com for
information about the tribe, guide services
and the Quinault Tribal Museum.
Long
Timeless.
Invigorating.
Delicious.
CraNBerry harVest
CraNBerry Coast sCeNiC Byway
Choose SR-105 from Aberdeen to
discover the Cranberry Coast. Westport,
a fishing town on Grays Harbor, has
a lively downtown and marina—walk
down the dock to Float 8 for fresh
seafood and incredible smoked tuna at
the Seafood Connection. Or walk up
the 135 steps spiraling to the top of the
Grays Harbor Lighthouse.
800.451.2542
funbeach.com
scenicwa.com 53
loNg BeaCh, iNterNatioNal kite FestiVal
jamie & judy Wild
In Grayland, many of the cranberry
bogs planted more than a century ago
by Finnish farmers still produce. Learn
more about the red berry we consume
every Thanksgiving at the Furford
Cranberry Museum (named for a
harvesting implement designed by
Julius Furford).
This byway then curves along the
north shore of Willapa Bay, the second
largest estuary on the Pacific Coast and
an excellent oyster producing body of
water. In Raymond, all of those critters
and people along the road are actually
sculptures; this town has more than 200
pieces of metal art. The byway ends at
South Bend, a little bayside town with
one foot in logging, the other in seafood,
and plenty of places to launch a boat,
picnic on the shore, or slurp a Willapa
Bay oyster.
discover this region’s boomtown past on
a walking tour of historic Oysterville.
Visit on Fourth of July to see the Long
Beach Peninsula in fine form. It starts
quietly with a little parade through
Ocean Park and then explodes into an
orgy of festivities on the beach. With
so many people blowing things up, it’s
hard to distinguish the official fireworks
display from campers lighting their own
up and down the beach.
Motels abound for those wanting to
avoid camping amid the shelling on the
beach. Adrift Hotel is a fresh twist on the
standard beachfront bedroom and even
provides bikes to pedal into town.
The impressive Astoria-Megler Bridge
crosses the Columbia River into Oregon’s
easy-access coastline. Lewis and Clark
buffs may want to visit Clark’s “dismal
little nitch” not too far from the bridge’s
entrance. It provides a great view of
the Columbia River shipping lanes and
Astoria, Oregon, on the opposite bank.
let the tides guide you
True road warriors can continue on
US-101 through South Bend and catch
the last of the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway.
This stretch never looks the same twice,
thanks to the tides. Curves are constant
companions as are shorebirds and elk
Detour onto SR-103 for the Long
Beach Peninsula, a perfect stretch of
beach (“the world’s longest,” as the
sign lavishly claims) with a strong
personality. Grab saltwater taffy and skid
go-carts in the town of Long Beach, or
take your tiMe
Don’t plan to see all that our rugged
Pacific Ocean coastline has to offer
in one trip; it just isn’t possible. Take
tiny bites of this apple and plan plenty
of time to lollygag. We know that
Washington’s wild beaches will always
call you back because there’s always one
more discovery around the next bend in
the road.
2013 WHEN
Oceanside Resort & RV Park
When You Go
· Oceanfront cabins
· Watch whales & seabirds
· Launch a kayak or surfboard
· Tribal ceremonies
· Lonesome Creek Store & gift shop
· 71 units, all with kitchens, 43 of
which are cabins
· Pets with restrictions
· Campground and full service RV Park
ADVENTURE QUEST
KAYAKING TOURS
Whale-watching kayak
tours in the prime orca
whale waters. Day trips
to Lime Kiln Whale Watch
330 Ocean Drive, P.O.
Box
Park
and67
camping expediLa Push, WA 98350
tions to outer islands.
(360) 374-5267 Expert guides, small
groups, families welcome.
Toll Free: 1-800-487-1267
360-378-5767 or
www.quileuteoceanside.com
888-589-4253
www.sea-quest-kayak.com
Quileute SW13 1_6v.pdf
When You Go
ORCAS ISLAND
ECLIPSE CHARTERS
Cruise aboard world
famous “Orcas Express”
for great whale watching
& historic lighthouse tours.
Professional naturalists.
8368 Orcas Road
Orcas, WA 98280
800-376-6566
www.
orcasislandwhales.com
When You Go
When You Go
MYSTIC SEA CHARTERS
Mystic Sea Charters
Guaranteed Whale
Sightings, Five star
rating! See the whales,
the wildlife and the San
Juan Islands aboard the
classic 100ft. Mystic Sea.
Excellent indoor and
outdoor viewing,
onboard naturalist, marine
mammal education focus.
SKAMANIA LODGE
Just 45 minutes from
Portland, in the
Columbia River Gorge,
Skamania Lodge is
naturally perfect for
meetings, vacations
and getaways.
1-800-308-9387
www.mysticseacharters.com
astoria Bridge
When You Go
1131 SW Skamania
Lodge Way
Stevenson, WA 98648
800.221.7117
SKAMANIA.com
scenic Byways
pacific Coast
LewiS and cLark SLept
here. The last miles of this drive
follow the footsteps of Lewis and
Clark. Explore the interpretive
center at Cape Disappointment
to see how difficult those tracks
were to make. A series of muralsized “timeline” panels guide
visitors through the westward
journey of the Lewis and Clark
Expedition using sketches, paintings, photographs and the words
of Corps members themselves.
The center also features a short
film presentation, a gift shop and
a glassed-in observation deck
with fabulous views of the river,
headlands and sea. Additional
displays focus on local maritime
and military history.
www.parks.wa.gov/stewardship/
lewisandclarkcenter/
LighthouSe tourS
A couple of nearby lighthouses,
Cape Disappointment and
North Head, offer guided tours
and make for fun excursions.
Hours vary seasonally, call ahead
(360) 642–3029.
PHOTO GREG VAUGHN
Discover Unforgettable Grays Harbor, WA
50 Miles of Pristine Beaches
Hiking, Walking & Camping
A destination for all seasons…
where memories are waiting to be made!
World-class Sport Fishing
Come visit Grays Harbor on the beautiful Washington coast. Home to a
temperate rain forest, breath-taking views, and over 50 miles of beaches.
Need more info? Find us Online at www.visitgraysharbor.com
or call 1-800-621-9625.
Abundant Wildlife
scenicwa.com 55
The ulTiMATe
rainforeStS & miSty moutainS
sCeNiC Byway 4. noRth olympic peninSula
Pacific Coast
if the washington you desire is the one with old
growth forests dripping with moss, crystal-clear
lakes, misty mountains, and chainsaw art in front
yards, this is your drive. Pack a raincoat and toss
some rubber boots in your trunk and discover the
place that put the “green” in evergreen state.
waterFall at olyMpiC NatioNal park. Photo deBorah richardson
scenic Byways
North olympic peninsula
port towNseNd
Crowds drop away, replaced by Olympic
Mountain views and salt spray once the
car crosses the Hood Canal Bridge on
SR-104. A detour north along SR-19 will
lead through Chimacum Valley, a place
that’s rediscovering its farming roots with
artisan cideries and organic farms. Duck
into the big yellow building with a chick
painted on it—The Chimacum Corner
Farmstand—for locally grown goodies.
Follow signs to Port Townsend, an
eclectic and artistic community with
personality in spades. The entire town
is on the National Register of Historic
Places, but it is best known for its
salty nature—attend the Wooden Boat
Festival in September, enjoy a beer on
the beach at the Pour House, or grab a
slice from Waterfront Pizza, a longtime
PT institution. Fort Worden State Park
offers campgrounds, a long stretch of
sandy beach, a lighthouse and concrete
military bunkers to explore.
Located in the rain shadow of the
Olympic Mountains, Sequim is known
as the driest area in western Washington
and is home to the state’s biggest
Lavender Festival. Hot air balloons
converge here in September, drawn by
the still air and flat topography.
The fertile Dungeness Valley is ripe
with U-pick everything during the
summer months and offers a perfect
panorama of the Olympics spreading
along the southern horizon.
aValaNChe lilies aloNg hurriCaNe ridge iN
washiNgtoN state’s olyMpiC NatioNal park
duNgeNess spit
inge johnsson
the raiN shadow
port aNgeles
This small town sandwiched between
the Olympic Mountains and the
sparkling Strait of Juan de Fuca bills
tall ships glide past ViCtoriaN port towNseNd
scenicwa.com 57
john marshall
Curving more than five miles out into
the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Dungeness
Spit is the longest natural sand spit in
the United States. Beach hikers can go
inside the New Dungeness Lighthouse at
the end of the spit and see unobstructed
views of the strait and the Olympics. The
spit is part of the Dungeness National
Wildlife Refuge, an area populated by
ducks and seabirds, harbor seals, sea
lions and the occasional whale. scenic Byways
itself as “The Authentic Northwest.”
For an authentic Port Angeles
experience, stop at Swain’s for
outdoor gear and a bag of 25cent popcorn. Then enjoy some
seafood at one of the many eateries
downtown: Michael’s Seafood and
Steakhouse has fine dining in an
intimate basement space. Next Door
Gastropub has outdoor seating and
tasty steamer clams; don’t miss the
fine bigfoot portrait inside.
Events range from the Crab
Festival in October to the Juan de
Fuca Arts Festival over Memorial
Day weekend. Port Angeles is also an
international port. The Coho, a car
ferry that travels to Victoria, British
Columbia, sails from here several
times a day. Another spit, Ediz Hook,
encircles this town’s harbor; drive or
bike it for a superb view of this town
nestled beneath the peaks of the
Olympic Mountains.
hurriCaNe ridge
Olympic National Park’s famed
Hurricane Ridge is 18 miles south and
5,200 feet up from Port Angeles. Day
hikers can find marmots and deer,
meadows full of lupine and glacier
lilies, and jaw-dropping views all the
way to Canada. In winter, Hurricane
Ridge Ski Area (the only Washington
ski area within a national park) is
packed with skiers and sledders.
coves here are surfable. One not-sosecret spot that’s been discovered by
standup paddle-boarders is Crescent
Beach; you’ll share these waters with
leaping salmon in the fall.
Continue west through the
fishing towns of Clallam Bay and
Sekiu to where SR-112 becomes the
Cape Flattery Tribal Scenic Byway
during its last 12 miles, culminating
at Neah Bay. This entire stretch
is pure Olympic Peninsula. Walk
through the fir forest and along
remote beaches under the pearly
sky to a favorite salmon hole; repeat
until relaxed.
lake CresCeNt
olyMpiC NatioNal park, sol duC Falls aNd Bridge
oVer the sol duC riVer. Photo jamie and judy wild
Another popular draw: free ranger-led
snowshoe tours every weekend at 2 p.m.
(snowshoes provided).
strait oF JuaN de FuCa
sCeNiC Byway
Lovers of true back roads should take
SR-112 out to the very corner of the
continent. Along the 61 miles of the
Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway is
the Joyce General Store, selling candy,
cast iron pans and bait for 100 years
and counting. Some of the beaches and
Continuing west on US-101, the
byway is sandwiched between the
steep foothills of the Olympics
and the crystal-clear waters of
Lake Crescent. Historic Lake
Crescent Lodge (built in 1916) has
both accommodations and fine dining:
Franklin D. Roosevelt stayed here in the
late 1930s and decided to sign Olympic
National Park into existence. To see Lake
Crescent like a local, pick a calm day to
paddle across from the lodge. On the
other side is the Spruce Railroad Trail,
an excellent bike and ramble path with
detours into old railroad caves. This side
also has deep water that glows turquoise
blue, and Devil’s Punchbowl, a cove with
cliffs that are perfect for jumping.
planninG tipS
diStance: 186 miles Seattle to Kalaloch,
via the Bainbridge Island Ferry.
tRavel time: Give yourself 5 hours, more if you
want to explore as you go. This is an ideal weekend
trip from the Puget Sound area. Port Angeles is a good central
place to overnight.
BeSt time: Year-round.
BeSt foR: This trip requires a ferry ride from the Puget Sound
region, unless you want to drive through Tacoma, which may be
the preferred route in the summer. During the summer season,
Friday afternoon ferries heading out of Edmonds and Seattle
can have long waits (an hour and a half to two hours). Similarly,
when everyone heads back on Sunday, the eastbound ferries
from Kingston and Bainbridge Island can have long lines. Leave
the city early on Friday and return late (after 6 p.m.) on Sunday.
More fun and less waiting for ferries!
scenic Byways
ruBy BeaCh, olyMpiC NatioNal park
twilight CouNtry
Destinations for Memories
to Last a Lifetime
Southwest on US-101 is the town of
Forks, a pilgrimage site for fans of
Stephanie Meyer’s Twilight novels. But
long before vampires and werewolves
hit town, Forks was—and still is—a
popular place for hikers and sport
anglers fishing for salmon and rainbow
trout in the Hoh, Sol Duc, Bogachiel
and Calawah
Rivers. To visit
La Push, home of
the Quileute Tribe,
and access Pacific
beaches, detour
north on SR-110.
hoh raiN Forest
Log Cabin Resort
olympicnationalparks.com
facebook.com/olympicnationalpark
866-776-5422
Less than an hour south of Forks
on US-101, take the cutoff to the
astonishing Hoh Rain Forest, one of the
last old-growth temperate rain forests
in the Western Hemisphere. This place
measures annual rainfall in feet (14 a
year is the average), and the wildlife
viewing and birding opportunities are
abundant. Several hikes of varying
difficulty and length will lead you
through the moss-draped canopy—try
the 0.8-mile Hall of Mosses trail if time
is short. There’s also a visitor center,
camping, and an outfitter along the
way that offers guide services and, yes,
raingear for sale.
kalaloCh aNd ruBy BeaCh
US-101 veers toward the coast now, then
southward along chain of beaches within
the Olympic National Park, some of the
last protected wilderness beaches in the
contiguous United States.
Ruby Beach has a meandering creek,
garnet-colored sand and shallow pools
to play in during low tide. Kalaloch
(pronounced clay-lock) is a wide flat
beach with campsites and the popular
Kalaloch Lodge perched on the bank
above. Bluff-side cabins and a restaurant
with spectacular views of the Pacific
draw visitors from all over the world to
this superlative beach.
liNktoplay
HOH RAINFOREST, OLYMPIC PENINSULA
Get a virtual interpretive tour of the rain forest.
inge johnsson
on the
road to Paradise
5. Mt. RainieR roAd trip
Some mornings, Mount Rainier looks so close to
Seattle you’d swear someone put casters on it and
scooted it northward during the night. Sorry, the
mountain is actually 80 miles away. It’s so huge it just
looks like it’s sitting right outside your hotel window.
But this trip will get you breathtakingly close to that
famous snow cone mountaintop. Plus, you’ll get to
post the quintessential Pacific Northwest brag on
Facebook: “On the road to Paradise!”
This Scenic Road Trip
connects directly to
both the Chinook
Pass All American
Scenic Byway and the
White Pass National
Scenic Byway.
PhOtO chaRleS guRche
ScenicWA.com 61
the FuN starts iN the Foothills
Starting near Tacoma—whose name comes
from Tahoma, the Native American name
for Rainier—strike out for Eatonville,
a small town nestled in the foothills of
Mount Rainier. There will be wildlife along
this trip, but to be sure, Northwest Trek
Wildlife Park has trams and walking tours
and guaranteed sightings of everything
from cougars to caribou. They’ve recently
added zip line challenge courses.
Elbe is a great stop if you have a Thomas
the Tank Engine fan in the car. The
Mount Rainier Scenic Railway chugs on a
14-mile trip through nearby foothills yearround. Honk and wave to (or stop and
wander through) artist Daniel Klennert’s
whimsical metal sculptures—they’ve been
turning heads along SR-706 for years.
Nisqually’s gateway
has its owN rewards
National park signs should be massive,
rough-hewn and span the roadway—the
Nisqually entrance to Mount Rainier
National Park doesn’t disappoint. The
entrance has a certain woodsy gravitas;
It feels like the gateway to the fifth
national park established in the
United States.
Like most roads into mountains,
this one follows a river—in this case,
the Nisqually. Longmire was park
headquarters in 1899 when the park was
established. Today the stout stone-andtimber original administrative building
still stands and houses a museum devoted
to the park’s history. Short trails weave
past everything from homesteads to hot
springs, and this stop is a good precursor
to the awesome beauty that lies ahead.
waterFalls aNd sCeNiC
Vistas are eVerywhere
By now the road name has changed
to Paradise Road. And what would a
road to Paradise be without spectacular
waterfalls? The two stars here are
Christine and Narada Falls, dramatic
two-tiered beauties that are both easily
accessible from the road into the park.
Look for a turnout for Christine four
miles from Longmire.
Narada is three and a half miles further
along and has the delightful habit of
making mist rainbows in the right light.
In the winter, check for ice climbers on
the frozen upper fall.
scenic Byways
CoMet Falls, Mt. raiNier NatioNal park
charles gurche
View FroM trail at paradise Visitor
CeNter, Mt. raiNier NatioNal park
inge johnsson
Mt. rainier
planninG tipS
Bring hiking shoes, cameras and
the kids. This drive has big nature,
big fun and the biggest peak in
the Cascade Range.
diStance: 185 miles
tRavel time: 4.25 hours
A couple of days would be ideal,
though this drive can be done in
one very long day.
BeSt time: Spring, summer, early
fall. Stevens Canyon Road closes
in the winter, but the road to
Paradise stays open year-round—
unless a storm temporarily shuts
it down.
BeSt foR: Nature hikes, Grove
of the Patriarchs and near endless
photo ops of Mt. Rainier.
aSk the inSideR
nate Watters
An extra day to hike
Unicorn Peak just off
of Stevens Canyon Rd.
will reward you with
incredible views of
Mount Rainier all the
way down to Mt. Hood
in Oregon. Bring your
crampons if you go
before July.
scenicwa.com/blog/
guide/intrepid-insider
scenicwa.com 63
scenic Byways
Mt. rainier
paradise liVes up to its NaMe
Crest Trail Lodge
Seasons Motel
AAA Rated 27 units nestled in the
community of Packwood
AAA Rated 49 unit Motel
· Microwaves and refrigerators
· Wireless internet
· Flat screen TVs · Night Caps
· HOT continental breakfast
available every day in the lobby
from 7-10 am.
Crest
trail
LODGE
Crest Trail Lodge
12729 US HWY 12
Packwood, WA 98361
360-494-4944
www.whitepasstravel.com
CrestTrail SW13 1_6v.pdf
· Refrigerator and microwave in
every room
· Flat screen TVs
· HOT continental breakfast daily
· Located between Mt. Rainier &
Mt. St. Helens
S eaS onS
M O T E L
Seasons Motel
Junction Hwy 12 and 7
Morton, WA 98356
Phone 877-496-6835
SeasonsMotel SW13 1_6v.pdf
Paradise is surrounded by the iconic
images of the national park: the
meadows painted with lupine and lily
in the summer; a lake that reflects
the mountain so perfectly it’s as if a
photographer designed the landscape;
the vintage grey-timbered Paradise Inn;
and of course Mount Rainier. This area
is the heart of the park—climbers setting
out for the summit, families taking day
drives. Tourists from all over the world
converge here, and it’s easy to see why.
raiNier is worthy oF reFleCtioN
If you manage to pry yourself away
from the over-the-top beauty of
Paradise (don’t forget a picture for your
Facebook post), there are more treats
further down the road. Take Stevens
Canyon Road (closed winters) toward
Ohanapecosh, and in just a few miles,
you’ll encounter one of the definitive
photo opportunities of Rainier towering
behind the appropriately named
Reflection Lake.
Continuing down the hill, pull over
for a dizzying glimpse of Box Canyon, a
deep, mossy gorge carved by the Cowlitz
River; it’s just three-tenths of a mile of
paved pathway and a perfectly scenic
leg-stretching stop.
old growth giVes New liFe
The Perfect Little
Alta Crystal Resort
Mount
Rainier and
ect Little Mount Rainier Resort
Crystal Mountain Resort
mended by AAA, Fodors,
The Perfect Little
rs and Trip Advisor.Recommended by AAA,
Mt.
Rainier Resort
Frommers
& Trip Advisor
pool and hot Fodors,
tub
Recommended
by AAA,
ng chalet suites and romantic
Fodors,pool
Frommers
&tub
Trip Advisor.
·
Heated
&
hot
moon cabin
Heated pool
& hot tub. Charming
· Charming
g activities like bonfires
and chalet
BBQs suites &
chalet suites &cabin
romantic honeymoon
honeymoon
tion lodge & field.
cabin.
Evening
activities
like bonfi
res
· Bonfires, BBQs, recreation
lodge
o Sunrise entrance.
& BBQs. Recreation lodge & field.
· Next to Sunrise entrance
Next to Sunrise entrance.
Mill Village Motel
AAA Rated 32 unit Motel
· Refrigerator and microwave in
every room
· Flat screen TVs
· HOT continental breakfast
available every day in the lobby
from 7-10 am.
Mill
Vill age
MOTEL
68317 State Route 410 East
68317 State
RouteWA
41098022
East
Greenwater,
Greenwater,
WA 98022
800-277-6475
800-277-6475
www.altacrystalresort.com
www.altacrystalresort.com
[email protected]
[email protected]
Mill Village Motel
210 Center Street E
Eatonville, WA 98328
360-832-3200
AltaCrystal EW10 1_6v.pdf
AltaCrystal SW12 1-6v.pdf
MillVillage SW12 1_6v.pdf
Drive another winding 16 miles along
Stevens Canyon Road and stop at the
Grove of the Patriarchs Trail, just before
you cross over the Ohanapecosh River.
Even if you don’t need to stretch your
legs or make a rest stop, this one-anda-half-mile loop through a cathedral of
old growth trees shouldn’t be missed.
These cedars, firs and hemlocks grew
to such a ripe old age—more than 1,000
years old—because they’re on an island
in the middle of the river, protected
from forest fires. A suspension bridge
crosses onto the island and into this
land of giants. Find a quiet place to sit
and breathe deep. Studies are showing
that time spent in deeply forested places
is good for health—linger in this grove
with these ancient denizens and add
some years to your internal clock.
scenicwa.com 65
scenic Byways
Mt. rainier
hot spriNgs oFFer
Muddy respite
The nearby Ohanapecosh Campground
has forested sites along the river. Don’t
come expecting to luxuriate in the
Ohanapecosh Hot Springs—there was a
resort back in the ’60s, but the park has let
the springs return to their natural state.
Hot water does burble out of the
ground in this area, but immersing
yourself in it would require being OK
with a mud bath as well.
CiVilizatioN awaits your returN
Southward, the road joins US-12, but
you won’t be shocked by civilization
just yet. Keep the adventure unfolding
by heading east over White Pass, home
to White Pass Ski Area, a big ski hill
(thanks to a recent expansion) with a
decidedly down-home vibe. Close the
loop by turning westward and exploring
small towns along this route that is part
of the White Pass Scenic Byway.
Located between all of Washington’s
big-name mountains (Rainier,
Adams and St. Helens) Packwood is
oN a Clear day you CaN see
Mt. st. heleNs to the south.
the Most reCeNtly aCtiVe
VolCaNo iN the CoNtiNeNtal
u.s. CaN Be explored at
Mt. st. heleN’s NatioNal park.
Photo Brett Baunton
a recreational hub for hikers, skiers,
snowboarders and snowmobilers as
well as campers and anglers. If you
pass through on Memorial Day or
Labor Day weekend, you’ll see tents
lining US-12 and all over town.
It’s a wildly popular semi-annual
flea market; Stop and nose around,
maybe the perfect souvenir (chainsaw
bear? antique butter churn? bottle of
homemade wine?) will find you.
In April, Mossyrock bursts into brilliant
color as acres of tulip fields come into
bloom. Later in the season, blueberries
are so abundant there’s a festival devoted
to them the first weekend in August.
lakeside CaMpiNg aBouNds
Riffe Lake is a big reservoir that offers
all kinds of water play. Ike Kinswa State
Park, four miles north of Mossyrock,
has forested campsites, heated camping
cabins at a steal of a nightly rate, and
46,000 feet of shoreline for your boating,
swimming, hiking and fishing pleasure
on Mayfield Lake.
SR-12 rejoins I-5 about 16 miles
west of Mossyrock. Head north and
homeward, or reward yourself for the
miles with a stop at McMenamins
Olympic Club in Centralia.
For more loop tour ideas, visit
www.visitrainier.com.
State
Secrets
6. SheRman paSS to pend oReille countRy sCeNiC Byway
this trip doesn’t show up in tons of travel guides, but
it combines three of washington state’s most scenic
byways (sherman Pass, north Pend oreille and part
of the international selkirk loop) into one adventure.
Folks who take this drive will uncover washington
treasures ranging from remote caves to u-dig fossils
to trees that look like solid gold when their needles
turn in the fall. here’s a guide to washington’s
northeast corner.
Sherman Pass
kettle MouNtaiNs seeN FroM sherMaN pass. Photo donnelly-austin
scenicwa.com 67
scenic Byways
sherman pass to
sherMaN pass
Head east from Republic up and over
5,575-foot Sherman Pass; in October,
the larches color up and become
shocking orange accents in a sea
of green Douglas firs. Time it right
and travel the pass when the needles
have dropped and SR-20 is carpeted
in gold. A pullout with interpretive
signs at the White Mountain/Sherman
Overlook allows you to view the
ghostly gray snags left behind by
devastating fires in 1929 and 1988.
Ten miles or so further east is the
Log Flume Heritage Site; don’t let the
logger next to the old log flume startle
you—it’s a statue.
The Grand Coulee Dam’s construction
created a 150-mile-long recreational
mecca and destroyed the old town of
Kettle Falls. No place illustrates this
better than Kettle Falls Campground,
with high-bank riverfront sites, a
marina complete with houseboats for
rent, and interpretive signs explaining
the town that once thrived near this site.
Of course, Kettle Falls relocated
and proudly claims to be home to
“1599 Friendly People and One
Grouch.” Every June, the town
appoints a new Grouch at Town
and Country Days—the title goes to
whomever raises the most quarters for
the Chamber of Commerce.
ColVille to
little peNd oreille
A short drive south along US-395
leads to Colville, a town that’s
surrounded by prime hunting and
fishing areas. The Little Pend Oreille
National Wildlife Refuge is 42,000
acres of free camping, abundant
fishing, and wildlife spotting
opportunities galore. Moose, black
bear, and the Canada lynx
(a threatened species) are just
bart rulon
kettle Falls
courtesy oF seattle city light
repuBliC
Downtown Republic is an authentic
remnant of the old frontier town,
filled with 19th- and early
20th-century buildings. Enjoy
a walking tour past murals and
photographs depicting the area’s
rich gold mining history. The
Stonerose Interpretive Center in
downtown Republic is an excellent
family stop; visitors can participate
in a public dig of an Eocene fossil
bed and, except in the case of
extremely rare finds, can keep
whatever fossils they uncover.
An $8 admission fee (kids under
6 are free) buys the best hands-on
archeology lesson in the state.
Check www.stonerosefossil.org for
updated schedule information.
loNg Billed Curlew
BouNdary daM
some of the animals that find
home in this refuge (www.fws.gov/
littlependoreille/wildlife.html). This
leg of eastbound SR-20 is refreshingly
remote and rewards travelers with the
placidly gorgeous Pend Oreille River as
well as interesting options to the north,
planninG tipS
This is one remote ramble,
especially as you travel further
eastward. Republic, followed by
Kettle Falls and Colville are the
biggest population centers.
Check the condition of Sherman
Pass if traveling in winter.
diStance: 100 miles from
Republic to Boundary Dam.
tRavel time: 4.25 houRS
A couple of days would be ideal,
though this drive can be done in
one very long day.
BeSt time: Mid- to late October
for spectacular fall color.
BeSt foR: Fossil digging and big
game (moose and elk) spotting.
aSk the inSideR
oby Scout
Take a guided boat tour
of the reservoir behind
Boundary Dam near
Metaline Falls. You’ll see
rusting mining equipment,
abandoned mine shafts
and pristine waterfalls that
can’t be accessed any
other way.
guide/obyexplorer-in-residence
PEND OREILLE COUNTY
ColVille NatioNal Forst, sulliVaN lake
along the North Pend Oreille Scenic
Byway, or south, along part of the
International Selkirk Loop.
ioNe
When the road ends in Tiger (check
out the small visitor center and
museum here), head north and the
first town you’ll hit is Ione (eyeOWN), founded in 1910. If you’re
traveling in June you might encounter
Down River Days, a celebration of
the Pend Oreille that includes racing
snowmobiles across it. The North Pend
Oreille Lions Club also operates a
scenic train tour out of the depot here
during summer and fall—the fall color
rides are especially spectacular as the
train winds along the river gorge.
MetaliNe Falls
The river is your constant companion
on the right as the road winds to
Metaline Falls. It’s especially gorgeous
as steam rises off of it on chilly
fall mornings. Metaline Falls is a
picturesque town that once made
concrete for a living—today it’s home
to many Boundary Dam workers.
Linger on the bridge on the way
into town, and look down at the rapid
that was once a waterfall and the town’s
namesake. A single wide main street
is home to Kathy’s Restaurant, a good
stop for breakfast. But remember to
bring cash, since they don’t accept
credit cards!
Keep an eye out for homes and
buildings with characteristic curves
in the roofline that were designed by
world-renowned architect Kirtland
Cutter. The Performing Arts Center in
town is one of his designs that is open
to the public to explore and appreciate.
BouNdary daM
aNd gardiNer CaVe
Beyond Metaline Falls SR-31 winds
along beaver ponds and abandoned
homesteads, and then Ys off into
a couple of compelling dead ends
before border. The left Y takes you
to Crawford State Park and Gardener
Cave, the third longest limestone
cavern in Washington. Rangers lead
tours into the cave on every day except
charles gurche
PEND OREILLE COUNTY
Come back to the olden days
by the north-flowing Pend
• Step back
in time.
Oreille
River.
Ride our restored antique
train.
Ride
the restored
• Tour millennia-old
antique
train.
Gardner
Cave.
•
•
Tour millennia-old
Watch tundra
swans
Gardner Cave.
herald spring.
Paddle the Pend Oreille
Experience
our “zoo”
River.
– migration route for
• Camp in the wilderness.
creatures along the River.
•
Visit us at
www.porta-us.com
Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance
(PORTA)
P. O. Box 1182
Newport, WA 99156
509-447-5286
scenicwa.com 69
usk, peNd oreille riVer
Wildlife refuges,
wetlands, fossils,
a buffalo herd
and more friendly
smiles than you
can fathom are
all part of the
northeast corner
experience.
Photo by J. Foster Fanning
Republic
w
a
s
h
i
n
g
t
o
n
Scenic trails & drives
Fresh air and blue skies
Birding/wildlife viewing
World-class fossil hunting
Historic hotel museum
Uncrowded camping & RVing
Fishing and water sports
One great brewery
No traffic lights
No hurry
L i fe as i t sho ul d be !
Republic Regional Visitors
& C o n v e n ti o n B u r e a u
(509) 775-3387
fer r yco u nt y. co m
Tuesdays and Wednesdays between
in the spring and summer. Check
www.parks.wa.gov for more
specifics—it’s a long way to drive
to be disappointed, and the cave is
inaccessible without a ranger.
Take the right branch of the fork
and tour Boundary Dam, or camp at
the free lakefront campsite operated
by Seattle City Light. Boundary is one
of the prettiest dams in Washington,
good looking enough to be cast in the
1997 movie The Postman. There’s a
poster signed by the movie’s star and
director, Kevin Costner, in the Dam’s
visitor center, but far more compelling
is the vast limestone cavern that is the
biggest underground powerhouse in
the nation. Seattle City Light lets people
tour Boundary Dam from Memorial
Day through Labor Day.
usk, Newport aNd BeyoNd
There’s no loop potential here, so
heading south is the only alternative.
The Pend Oreille is easy on the eyes
coming and going though, and the
70-mile stretch from Oldtown, Idaho,
to Boundary Dam is a designated water
trail with camp spots that can only be
reached by boat.
SR-31 becomes SR-20 at tiny
Tiger and meanders along the river
to Cusick, Usk and the Kalispel
Indian Reservation. Go over the
bridge that crosses the Pend Oreille
at Usk and explore LeClerc Road,
which winds along the river on the
east side.
Along this road, discover a buffalo
ranch at the Camas Center, a state
of the art recreation facility, and The
Manresa Grotto, a cave overlooking
the river where the Kalispel have held
religious services since the 19th century.
Stick with the river and continue into
Newport to learn more about the
Kalispel tribe in Pioneer Park. Visit
in spring and see fields full of purple
Camas in bloom and a 4,000-year-old
oven in which the Kalispel Indians once
used to bake this starchy root.
The only fault with this drive is the
inevitable re-entry into civilization
as it loops south toward Spokane.
If time allows, you may just want to
flip another U-turn and head back
the way you came!
jamie and judy Wild
scenic Byways
sherman pass to
Desert Oasis
7. coulee coRRidoR sCeNiC Byway
this road trip leads to fishing lakes, desert hikes, healing
waters and the fields that grow your food. take a boat
to a lakeshore campsite complete with boulders for
diving into the deep. explore caves in a prehistoric
flood site. Breathe sage-scented air and feel the hot
sun. discover the many reasons refugees from the
“wet side” of washington flock here in the summer.
Coulee Corridor
sCaBlaNds. Photo john marshall
scenicwa.com 71
Solar-Powered
Vacations
in Grant County, Washington
Easy to Get to and
Family-Affordable
Concerts at the Gorge Amphitheater
Surfing at the Moses Lake Surf n’ Slide
Water Park
Wineries and Tasting Rooms
Golfing at one of 15 Golf Courses
Water Sports at over 100 Lakes
World-Class Hunting and Fishing
Wildlife and Geographical Tours/Sites
Visit the Grand Coulee Dam
At tourgrantcounty.com you’ll
find:
Complete Accommodations,
Campgrounds and RV Park
Listings
Complete Events, Activities and
Festivals Calendar
Popular Grant County Attractions
Listing
Free Grant County / Eastern
Washington Travel Planner
For more information, contact:
Grant County Tourism Comission
PO Box 37, Ephrata, WA 98823
509.765.7888 • 800.992.6234 • tourgrantcounty.com
scenic Byways
pothole lakes aNd Near eNdless
outdoor reCreatioN are all that
reMaiN aFter the glaCial Floods
greg vaughn
Coulee Corridor
FarMs aNd wildliFe
Setting out northward from Othello on SR-17,
the Columbia National Wildlife Refuge is a
mix of shrub-steppe desert, marsh and farm
fields, all of it habitat for everything from
Sandhill cranes to great horned owls. Othello
hosts the Sandhill Crane Festival in April,
prime time to see these magnificent birds.
The refuge gives way to Potholes Reservoir
and State Park with campsites and year-round
boating and fishing.
Moses lake aNd healiNg waters
Don’t be startled by low-flying jets as
you drive through Moses Lake—Boeing
has a test facility here. Moses Lake is the
biggest city along the Coulee Corridor,
and it’s a great place to stock up on supplies,
especially fresh produce from the Moses
Lake Farmers Market.
Continue northward to the shores of Soap
Lake. Beachgoers caked in black mud are
a common sight here—Soap Lake’s water
and mud are legendary for their healing
properties. For decades this has been a spa
destination for people seeking treatment for
conditions like eczema and arthritis.
Even if you’re not spending the night,
check out the Notaras Lodge—with its cabins
made of fat pine logs and decorated in themes
ranging from “Old Mexico” to “Luck of the
Draw,” it’s a local institution that you’d only
find in a town where playing in the mud
is A-OK.
planninG tipS
The Coulee Corridor Scenic Byway
winds north from Othello to Omak
along SR-17
diStance: 100 miles.
tRavel time: 2.5 hours (not
counting drive time from Seattle)
BeSt time: Summer! This is a
trip for those who like it warm.
But if you don’t, consider spring
for wildflowers or fall for glowing
cottonwoods.
BeSt foR: Desert Hikes,
Camping, Swimming, Cave
Exploring, Bird Watching, Amazing
Vistas, Grand Coulee Dam, Lake
Roosevelt National Recreation
Area, Steamboat Rock
aSk the inSideR
Jennifer coleman
Float the day away at Lake Roosevelt; sandy
beaches, cool clear water & sunny days make
for a perfect camping spot. Take the kids to
the Grand Coulee Dam to impress them with
the sheer size and amount of cement used in
the construction of the dam.
www.scenicwa.com/blog/guide/family-travel-insider
liNktoplay
THIS LAND IS YOUR LAND
Sing along with Woody’s classic!
scenicwa.com 73
BalsaM root BlooMiNg uNder the
Basalt CliFFs oF steaMBoat roCk
CaVes aNd dry Falls
Now the corridor earns its name as it
enters into coulees—basalt drainages
where massive amounts of water once
flowed. Now only narrow lakes remain,
each with its own personality. Basalt
caves overlook Lenore Lake, and the short
hike to access them is family-friendly, if a
bit steep.
Next is Alkali Lake and then Blue Lake
with pullouts packed with anglers during
summer. Families pack the small resorts
in this area all summer long and ski boats,
party barges and air mattresses coexist on
these warm waters. After Sun Lakes State
Park (camping, cabins, a golf course and
boat launches) the road climbs up to the
Dry Falls Interpretive Center.
This small natural history museum is
perched on a bank above what was once
the world’s largest waterfall, carved out
by repeated cataclysmic flooding during
the last ice age. This is a necessary stop
for learning exactly how this compelling
landscape came to be.
the MillioN dollar Mile
Now the route crosses an earthen dam
and continues along Banks Lake. Anglers
might want to stop at Big Wally’s to stock
up on fishing supplies; this truck stop—
whose motto is “shut up and fish”—has
an entire room in the back devoted to
bait, line and lures.
SR-155 hugs the shores of Banks
Lake and then climbs into a narrow gap
between basalt cliffs. This spot is known
as “The Million Dollar Mile” and is one
of the most expensive stretches of road in
the state. The riverbank here was too soft,
so the roadbed had to be blasted out of
solid stone. This dramatic drive is worth
every cent.
steaMBoat roCk
aNd Northrup CaNyoN
At this point, the 800-foot butte that
marks Steamboat Rock State Park is in
view. This popular camping area just
added a new desert loop, complete with
camping cabins. Here you’ll find boat
ramps, a big day-use area with sweeping
lawns and multiple beaches, and
campsites that accommodate everything
from ski boats to 30-foot RVs.
This place gets packed in the summer,
so reservations are a must. Nearby
Northrup Canyon is an easy hike to an
old homestead. Look for rusted tin cans
and broken porcelain plates left behind
by Grand Coulee Dam workers, and
watch for rattlesnakes as well.
donnelly-austin
whirligigs aNd the
graNd Coulee daM
Now you’ll enter a string of tiny towns
all tied together by the Grand Coulee
Dam, the largest concrete structure in the
United States. Electric City is home to the
Gehrke Windmill Garden, a fading (and
classic) roadside attraction that has been
spinning in the wind for decades.
Look for food trucks offering tacos and
ice cream, and this is the go-to town for
campers seeking bug spray, sunblock and
gas. By all means visit the Grand Coulee
Dam; the Visitor Center aptly illustrates
the massive impact this structure had on
all of Washington.
Also, the free laser light show that’s
been projected nightly on the dam for 25
years is getting a makeover. The Bureau
of Reclamation plans to debut a brand
new show in May 2013.
Boulders aNd BigFoot
As this byway leaves the Grand Coulee
behind, the landscape is different but
no less stunning as it rises through the
Colville Indian Reservation. Wide rolling
hills dotted with mighty basalt boulders
characterize this region, and then beyond
Nespelem, you’ll find thick pine forests
and beautiful Disautel Pass. Look for
Bigfoot here—a sculpture by Colville
metal artist Virgil “Smoker” Marchand
has been startling folks along this route
for seven years. (For more on this stretch,
see the Indian Country article.)
oMak aNd Cultural Crossroads
This byway concludes in Omak, in the
heart of Okanogan Country. Omak
is best known for its annual Omak
Stampede, Indian Encampment & Pow
Wow—you can see the steep course
racers run their horses down on the way
into town.
A rich Hispanic influence means
Omak also has one of the best Cinco
de Mayo celebrations in the state. Try
Rancho Chico for Mexican fare when
driving through—this friendly restaurant
is always packed with locals. The
Breadline Café is another find; put the
final exclamation point on this road trip
with their home-style eats, eclectic décor
and tasty selection of local microbrews.
l
i
l
n
o
g
R
A
Tapestry
8. palouSe Scenic ByWay scenic Byway
traveling the roads of the Palouse scenic Byway, it’s tempting to
speed. those long stretches of glorious road rolling out in front of
the car just call for pushing the gas pedal down. resist the urge—
you don’t want to get a ticket, and there may be a tractor putting
along the highway up around the next curve. Plus, the byway’s
rolling hills and big horizons should be savored. the Palouse scenic
Byway is more a web of traveling options than a straight line from
point a to point B. it’s a perfect ramble through the small towns,
proud barns and wheat fields of washington’s breadbasket.
wheatFields iN the palouse regioN oF washiNgtoN. Photo alan majchrowicz
scenicwa.com 75
scenic Byways
palouse scenic Byway
palouse Falls
jamie and judy Wild
sMall towN liFe
SR-26 eastbound skirts Dusty, an
unincorporated town that’s home to
the most famous yodeler in the world,
Wylie Gustafson, better known as the
voice of Yahoo. Further east is Colfax
and the Codger Pole. The 65-foottall chainsaw carving is a monument
to a grudge match football game
played by two local teams 50 years
after their original game in 1938 ended
in controversial victory for Colfax’s
archrival St. Johns. In 1988, the same
players took the same field to play a
rematch. Nobody knows for sure who
won the new game, but the chainsawcarved faces of the 51 “codgers” who
played continue to grin down on visitors.
Continue eastward to Palouse, one
of the oldest communities in Whitman
County. Settle into the Green Frog
Cafe for coffee and a snack, or visit
the Roy Chatters Newspaper and
Printing Museum to see a unique
collection of early newspaper
publishing equipment.
BattleFields, Buttes aNd trails
Some of the most popular natural
attractions in this area are ones that
deliver views of the countryside.
Kamiak Butte County Park is three
miles south of Palouse along SR-27.
Climb the Pine Ridge Trail (a 3.5-mile
loop) to look over rolling hills and the
Wallowa Mountains to the south. This
park also has a handful of campsites.
For a drive-to panorama, Steptoe
Butte State Park is off US-195 about
12 miles north of Colfax. The road
corkscrews to the top of this 3,612foot natural edifice and a boggling
view of southeast Washington. This
day-use park is a go-to location for
photographers and anyone who wants
to see the lay of this fertile land.
History buffs should look for the
Steptoe Battlefield and Monument in
Rosalia. It commemorates an 1858
battle between the local Indians and
the U.S. Army. The butte served as a
lookout for the U.S. Army prior to
the battle.
planninG tipS
From Seattle, take I-90 east to
Vantage, and then follow SR26 east to hook into this byway
just past Washtucna (about 220
miles/3 hours and 20 minutes
from Seattle). The lightly
traveled roads and rolling hills
are perfect for bicycling.
diStance: 208 miles
tRavel time: 5 hours to get
it all done—spend at least one
day to do it well.
BeSt time: Spring, summer
and fall are best.
BeSt foR: The journey is
the pleasure of the Palouse.
The geology varies, dips and
swerves as you drive next
to train tracks and through
coulees. In winter the fog
sets in and the land feels
both welcoming and lonely.
Under the summer sun, the
less travelled roads allow for
gentle daydreaming against
the backdrop of your favorite
sound track.
aSk the inSideR
adrianne young
Find farm field dinners,
elegant little restaurants
tucked away in small towns.
Bring your boots and a
camera for a rural photo
expedition. Prepare for your
heart to stop as your first
glimpse of the Palouse Falls
and know that you’ll leave
a little bit of it behind when
you leave the park.
guide/wine-food-insider
wheel FeNCe at dahMeN
BarN Near uNioNtowN
Cougar CouNtry
Pullman, the best-known city in this
region, is home to Washington State
University. The WSU campus boasts
a beautiful blend of both classic and
contemporary architecture.
Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shoppe sells
both ice cream and cheese made at WSU’s
on-site creamery. Grab a “grabber,” aka
the world’s best ice cream sandwich, or
find famously delicious Cougar Gold
cheese here. But remember the line can
get long on football game days.
Another interesting site on campus
is the Bear Center. No formal tours are
offered, but it’s possible to observe the
grizzlies in their exercise yard at Airport
Road and Grimes Way.
uNioNtowN aNd dahMeN BarN
South of Pullman, SR-195 unwinds into
quaint Uniontown. Road trippers who
arrive in April might catch the annual
Sausage Feed—a decades-old tradition
that’s a fundraiser for the community
center and a great excuse to sample the
ultimate in local fare; townspeople make
the sausage for the feed.
The Dahmen Barn exists for all people
who have ever driven past a spectacular
old barn and wanted to commit the
crime of trespass to explore it. In 2006, a
newly refurbished Dahmen Barn opened
its doors to the region’s arts community
and the public. Visitors today can watch
performances, see artists at work, and
purchase local products and artwork.
The iconic wheel fence that surrounds
the barn has more than 1,000 rusted
spokes and hubs at last count—each with
its own story. Admission to the Dahmen
Barn is free.
Get started online!
pullmanchamber.com
800-365-6948
Washington State Parks
C
ome for the day...
N
...Stay for the
Ocean
City
ight
Va ca ti o n Ho m es · Yur ts · C ab i n s & m ore .
Cape Disappointment
Dosewallips
Battle Ground Lake
Celebrating 100 years of Washington state parks
Events and information available at www.parks.wa.gov
www.AdventureAwaits.com
Information Center: (360) 902-8844
scenicwa.com 77
AnAcortes
Anaco Bay Inn
916 33rd St, Anacortes, 98221, 360-299-3320/877-299-3320, www.anacobayinn.com
Majestic Inn & Spa
419 Commerical Ave, Anacortes, 98221, 360-299-1400/877-370-0100, www.majesticinnandspa.com
Resta
urant
Break
fast In
clude
d
Intern
et/W
iFi
Micro
wave
/Fridg
e
Swim
ming
Pool
Pets
Welc
ome
100%
Smok
e Fre
e
be r o
f Roo
ms
$$/$$
22
$$$/$$$$
21
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BellinghAm
Best Western PLUS Lakeway Inn & Conference Center
$$/$$$
714 Lakeway Dr, Bellingham, 98229, 888-671-1011, www.thelakewayinn.com
Holiday Inn Express Bellingham
$$/$$$
4160 Meridian St, Bellingham, 98226, 360-671-4800/1-800-HOLIDAY, www.hiexpress.com/bellinghamwa
Bow
Skagit Valley Casino Resort
5984 N Darrk Lane, Bow, 98232, 360-724-7777/877-275-2448, www.theskagit.com
Onsit
e
Num
Hotels, Motels & Resorts
$ = Under $70
$$ = $70–$120
$$$ = $120–$200
$$$$ = Over $200
Rates
Washington has an abundance of places to stay and things to do for every
price range. This quick reference guide from our advertisers is a great start.
Then explore the comprehensive resources available at www.ScenicWa.com.
(Off-P
eak/P
eak)
Places to Stay & Things to Do
101
103
Bremerton
Super 8 Motel
5068 Kitsap Way, Bremerton, 98312, 360-377-8881/800-800-8000, www.super8.com
$/$$
75
cAstle rock
Mt. St. Helens Motel
1340 Mt. St. Helens Way NE, Castle Rock, 98611, 360-274-7721, www.mountsthelensmotel.com
$$/$$
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McMenamin’s Olympic Club Hotel, Pub & Theatre
112 N Tower Ave, Centralia, 98531, 360-736-5164/866-736-5164, www.mcmenamins.com
$/$$
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60
$/$$
45
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70
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eAtonville
Mill Village Motel
210 Center St E, Eatonville, 98328, 360-832-3200, www.whitepasstravel.com
$$/$$
32
ellensBurg
Super 8 Ellensburg
1500 Canyon Rd, Ellensburg, 98926, 509-962-6888/800-800-8000, www.super8.com
$/$$
ePhrAtA
Best Western Rama Inn
1818 Basin St SW, Ephrata, 98823, 509-754-7111, bestwestern.com/hotels/best-western-rama
$$/$$
chelAn
Midtowner Motel
721 East Woodin Avenue, Chelan, 98816, 509-682-4051/800-572-0943, www.midtowner.com
crystAl mountAin/mt. rAinier (sunrise entrAnce)
Alta Crystal Resort at Mt. Rainier
68317 SR 410 E, Crystal Mountain 98022, 360-663-2500 / 800-277-6475 www.altacrystalresort.com
Crystal Mountain Hotels
33818 Crystal Mountain Blvd, Crystal Mountain 98022, 888-754-6400 www.crystalhotels.com
Crystal Mountain Lodging Suites
33000 Crystal Mountain Blvd, Crystal Mountain 98022, 360-663-2558 / 888-ON-THE-MT
www.crystalmountainlodging.com
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chehAlis
Best western Plus Park Place Inn & Suites
201 SW Interstate Ave, Chehalis, 98532, 360-748-4040/877-748-0008, www.parkplaceinn-suites.com
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FederAl wAy
Courtyard Seattle Federal Way
31910 Gateway Center Blvd S, Federal Way, 98003, 253-529-0200/800-321-2211, www.marriott.com/seafw
Hampton Inn & Suites Seattle/Federal Way
31720 Gateway Center Blvd S, Federal Way, 98003, 253-946-7000/800-HAMPTON,
www.seattlefederalwaysuites.hamptoninn.com
FerndAle
Silver Reef Hotel, Casino & Spa
4876 Haxton Way, Ferndale, 98248, 360-383-0777/866-383-0777, www.silverreefcasino.com
Super 8 Ferndale
5788 Barrett Avenue, Ferndale, 98248, 360-384-8881.-/800-800-8000, www.super8.com
FridAy hArBor
Best Western PLUS Friday Harbor Suites
680 Spring St, Friday Harbor, 98250, 360-378-3031/800-752-5752, www.fridayharborsuites.com
kent
Hawthorn Suites by Wyndham Kent
6329 South 212th Street, Kent, 98032, 253-395-3800/800-337-0202, www.hskent.com
lA conner
La Conner Channel Lodge
205 N First St, La Conner, 98257, 360-466-4113/888-466-4113, www.laconnerlodging.com
lA Push
Quileute Oceanside Resort & RV Park
330 Ocean Drive, La Push, 98350, 360-374-5267/800-487-1267, www.quileuteoceanside.com
lAcey
Super 8 Motel
112 College St, Lacey, 98503, 360-459-8888/800-800-8000, www.super8.com
leAvenworth
Icicle Village Resort
505 Highway 2, Leavenworth, 98826, 509-548-7000/800-961-0162, www.iciclevillage.com
lynnwood
city of lynnwood lodging
4114 198th St SW, Lynnwood, 98406, 425-670-5040, www.lynnwoodtourism.com/stay-here
Courtyard by Marriott
4220 Alderwood Mall Blvd, Lynnwood, 98036, 425-670-0500/800-321-2211, www.marriott.com/sealn
Embassy Suites Hotel
20601 44th Avenue W, Lynnwood, 98036, 425-775-2500/800-628-0611
www.seattlenorthlynnwood.embassysuites.com
morton
Seasons Motel
200 Westlake Ave, Morton, 98356, 360-496-6835, www.whitepasstravel.com
mount vernon
BEST WESTERN PLUS Cotton Tree Inn & Convention Center
2300 Market Street, Mount Vernon, 98273, 360-428-5678/800-622-6886, www.cottontreeinns.com
Days Inn Mount Vernon
2009 Riverside Dr, Mount Vernon, 98273, 360-424-4141/800-329-7466, www.daysinn.com
Tulip Inn
2200 Freeway Drive, Mount Vernon, 98273, 360-428-5969/800-599-5969, www.tulipinn.net
oceAn shores
Canterbury Inn
643 Ocean Shores Blvd, Ocean Shores, 98569, 360-289-3317/800-562-6678, www.canterburyinn.com
The Polynesian Resort
615 Ocean Shores Blvd NW, Ocean Shores, 98569, 800-562-4836, www.thepolynesian.com
PAckwood
Crest Trail Lodge
12729 US Hwy 12, Packwood, 98356, 360-494-4944/800-477-5339, www.cresttraillodge.com
Num
be r o
f Roo
ms
Onsit
e Res
taura
nt
Break
fast In
clude
d
Intern
et/W
iFi
Micro
wave
/Fridg
e
Swim
ming
Pool
Pets
Welc
ome
100%
Smok
e Fre
e
Rates
(Off-P
eak/P
eak)
$ = Under $70
$$ = $70–$120
$$$ = $120–$200
$$$$ = Over $200
$$/$$$
160
$$/$$$
142
$$$/$$$
105
$$/$$$
78
$$$/$$$$
61
$$/$$$
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152
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•
•
$$$/$$$$
40
•
•
•
$$/$$$
28
•
•
$/$$
98
•
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•
•
$$$/$$$$
107
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$$/$$$$ 1000+ •
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•
$$/$$$
164
•
$$/$$$
240
•
•
•
•
$$/$$
49
•
•
•
•
$$/$$$
120
•
•
•
$/$$
65
•
•
•
$/$$
40
•
•
•
$/$$$$
45
•
•
$$/$$$$
69
•
•
•
$$/$$
27
•
•
•
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ScenicWA.com 79
Num
be r o
f Roo
ms
Onsit
e Res
taura
nt
Break
fast In
clude
d
Intern
et/W
iFi
Micro
wave
/Fridg
e
Swim
ming
Pool
Pets
Welc
ome
100%
Smok
e Fre
e
Rates
(Off-P
eak/P
eak)
$ = Under $70
$$ = $70–$120
$$$ = $120–$200
$$$$ = Over $200
Port Angeles
Lake Crescent Lodge
416 Lake Crescent Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-928-3211/888-723-7127, www.olympicnationalparks.com
$$/$$$
52
•
•
Port ludlow
The Resort at Port Ludlow
One Heron Road, Port Ludlow, 98365, 360-437-7000/877-269-1873, www.portludlowresort.com
$$/$$$
37
•
•
91
•
•
28
•
•
•
29
•
•
•
QuinAult
Lake Quinault Lodge
$$/$$$
345 South Shore Rd, Quinault, 98575, 360-288-2900/800-562-6672, www.olympicnationalparks.com
log cabin resort
$$/$$
3183 East Beach Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-928-3325/888-896-3818, www.olympicnationalparks.com
Rain Forest Resort Village
$$/$$$$
516 South Shore Rd, Quinault, 98575, 360-288-2535/800-255-6936, www.rainforestresort.com
seAtAc
Super 8 Motel
3100 South 192nd, SeaTac, 98188, 206-433-8188/800-800-8000, www.super8.com
seAttle
The Edgewater Hotel
2441 Alaskan Way Pier 67, Seattle, 98121, 206-728-7000/800-624-0670, www.edgewaterhotel.com
SpringHill Suites by Marriott Seattle Downtown
1800 Yale Ave, Seattle, 98101, 206-254-0500/888-287-9400, www.shsseattle.com
$/$$
119
$$$$/$$$$ 223
•
•
•
$$/$$$
14
•
•
•
sPokAne
Northern Quest Casino
100 N Hayford Road, Airway Heights, 99001, 509-481-6000, www.northernquest.com
$$$/$$$$
250
•
•
tulAliP
Tulalip Resort Casino
10200 Quil Ceda Blvd, Tulalip, 98271, 360-716-6000/888-272-1111, www.tulalipresort.com
$$$/$$$$
370
•
union
Alderbrook Resort & Spa
10 East Alderbrook Drive, Union, 98592, 360-898-2200, www.alderbrookresort.com
$$$/$$$$
93
•
union gAP
Super 8 Motel
2605 Rudkin Rd, Union Gap, 98903, 509-249-8880/800-800-8000, www.super8.com
$/$$
96
$/$$
77
$$/$$$
127
$/$$
101
$/$$
14
$$$$/$$$$
84
woodinville
Willows Lodge
14580 NE 145th St, Woodinville, 98072, 425-424-3900, www.willowslodge.com
Things to Do
Morning Glory Balloon Tours
429 Eastside Rd.
Winthrop, WA 98862
509-997-1700
www.balloonwinthrop.com
Do Ocean Shores
Fly a kite; paddle a board; build
a sand-castle. Have fun!
www.DoOceanShores.com
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westPort
Breakers Boutique Inn
971 N Montesano, Westport, , 360-268-0848, www.breakersinn.com
•
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234
wAllA wAllA
Best western Plus Walla Walla Suites Inn
7 East Oak Street, Walla Walla, 99362, 509-525-4700, www.bestwesternwashington.com
Marcus Whitman Hotel & Conference Center
6 West Rose St, Walla Walla, 99362, 509-525-2200, www.marcuswhitmanhotel.com
Super 8 Motel
2315 Eastgate St N, Walla Walla, 99362, 509-525-8800/800-800-8000, www.super8.com
•
•
•
$$/$$$$
seAview
Shelburne Inn
4415 Pacific Way, Seaview, 98644, 360-642-2442/800-INN-1896, www.theshelburneinn.com
•
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ScenicWa.com
For more things to do go to
www.scenicwa.com/listing/main/things-to-do
Num
ber o
f Spa
ces
Hook
-Ups
Dump
Statio
n
Show
ers
Pull-T
hroug
h
Groce
ries/Ic
e/Pro
pane
Swim
ming
Tent C
ampin
g
FerndAle
Cedars RV Resort
6335 Portal Way, Ferndale, 98248, 360-384-2622, www.holidaytrailresorts.com/thecedars
$$/$$
167
•
•
•
•
•
lA Push
$$/$$
62
•
•
•
•
•
long BeAch
Andersen’s on the Ocean - A Friendly & Full Service RV Park
1400 138th St, Long Beach, 98631, 360-642-2231, www.andersensRV.com
$$/$$
60
•
•
•
$$/$$
52
•
$/$$
37
•
$$/$$
17
•
$$/$$
80
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
e
Welc
om
•
Pets
iFi
Jacuz
•
$$$/$$$$
5
•
•
vided
s Pro
Linen
ound
$$/$$$
12
•
•
•
•
glAcier
Mount Baker Lodging
7463 Mt Baker Highway, Glacier, 98244-5177, 360-599-2453/800-709-7669, www.mtbakerlodging.com
$$/$$$$
26
•
•
•
•
lA Push
$/$$$$
43
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
(Off-P
Max.
AnAcortes
Guemes Island Resort
4268 Guemes Island Rd, Anacortes, 98221, 360-293-6643/800-965-6643, www.guemesislandresort.com
Rates
Year
R
Min.
Stay
Req.
panc
Occu
eak)
eak/P
Cook
ing U
tensil
s
Cable
or Sa
t. TV
Intern
et/W
iFi
Pets
Welc
ome
Port Angeles
Colette’s Bed and Breakfast
399 Finn Hall Rd, Port Angeles, 98362, 360-457-9197/877-457-9777, www.colettes.com
y
•
silver creek
Harmony Lakeside RV Park
563 State Route 122, Silver Creek, 98585, 360-983-3804, www.harmonylakesidervpark.com
t Tub
t. TV
•
0
4
QuinAult
Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort
12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles, 98363 866-476-5382, www.olympicnationalparks.com
•
et/W
or Sa
Cable
•
$$$/$$$$
Vacation Houses & Cabins
•
nits
eq.
h/Sho
e Bat
Stay R
•
ilwAco
China Beach Retreat
222 Robert Gray Dr, Ilwaco, 98624, 360-642-2442, www.chinabeachretreat.com
$ = Under $70
$$ = $70–$120
$$$ = $120–$200
$$$$ = Over $200
•
Intern
FridAy hArBor
horseshu guest ranch
131 Gilbert Lane/PO Box 1639, Friday Harbor, 98250, 360-378-2298, www.horseshu.com
Firep
4
Min.
$/$$$
•
•
Privat
f Roo
ber o
eak)
eak/P
Rates
Num
clAllum BAy
Winter Summer Inn B&B
16651 Hwy 112, Clallam Bay, 98326, 360-963-2264, www.wintersummerinn.com
(Off-P
Bed & Breakfasts
$ = Under $70
$$ = $70–$120
$$$ = $120–$200
$$$$ = Over $200
•
wer
•
ms
silver creek
Harmony Lakeside RV Park
563 State Route 122, Silver Creek, 98585, 360-983-3804, www.harmonylakesidervpark.com
•
•
lace U
Port Angeles
Elwha Dam RV Park
47 Lower Dam Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-452-7054/877-435-9421, www.elwhadamrvpark.com
Log Cabin Resort
3183 East Beach Rd, Port Angeles, 98363, 360-928-3325/888-896-3818, www.olympicnationalparks.com
Sol Duc Hot Springs
12076 Sol Duc Hot Springs Road, Port Angeles, 98363 866-476-5382, www.olympicnationalparks.com
•
zi/Ho
Rates
$ = Under $20
$$ = $20–$50
$$$ = Over $50
(Off-P
eak/P
eak)
RV Parks & Campgrounds
$$$/$$$$ 5-10
$$/$$$
4-6
•
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•
ScenicWA.com 81
Vancouver, BC
99
o
ait
Str
fG
e
or
gia
Blaine
Point
Roberts
1A
546
Lynden
Ferndale
539
Cowichan
Lake
18
WHATCOM
Baker
Lake
Orcas Island
1
Roche
Harbor
17
Stra
it
Neah Bay
of J
uan
112
San Juan
Island
14
Forks
Sequim
R
5
Marysville
Everett
104
Port Ludlow
Port
Gamble
Kingston
Quilcene
Lynnwood
99
Edmonds
JEFFERSON
Kalaloch
Poulsbo
Brinnon
Silverdale
MASON
GRAYS
HARBOR
Hoquiam
Grays
Harbor
101
12
8
Brady Satsop
Elma
Montesano
105 Aberdeen
Grayland
Tumwater 510
12
507
Oysterville
South
Bend
Astoria
m
Colu bia R.
Skamokawa
LEWIS
Ne
410
R
lem
ha
Randle
Mount
St. Helens
National
Monument
Kelso
.
Lake
Merwin
COWLITZ
Yale
Lake
503
47
White Pass
12
YAKIMA
li tz R.
504
Castle Rock
101
202
Crystal Mountain
123
Cow
Riffe Lake
Cathlamet
30
Morton
12
505
Toledo
504
WAHKIAKUM
Longview
26
Ashford
Mount Adams
SKAMANIA
Swift
Creek Res.
KLICKITAT
Woodland
26
5
503
CLARK
141
142
White Salmon
30
Stevenson
500
6
Vancouver
Camas
14
Washougal
Portland
Cle
Elum
Mount
Rainier
National
Park
Packwood
Mayfield
Lake
5
401
Roslyn
Enumclaw
508
Winlock
101 Naselle Grays River
4
Ilwaco
706
Pe Ell
6
103
Long Beach
Snoqualmie
Pass
169
Tenino
12
Lake
Wenatchee
Chehalis
PACIFIC
Nahcotta
Ocean Park
KING
PIERCE
Centralia
Raymond
90
410
7
105
North Bend
18
410
Buckley
702
THURSTON
Rochester
Snoqualmie
161
507
Lacey
101
Tokeland
Willapa
Bay
5
Olympia
R.
Westport
Tukwila
Kent
Puyallup
Lakewood
li s
e ha
Ch
Ocean
Shores
Shelton
102
Skykomish
Issaquah
Federal Auburn
Way
Tacoma
Index
90
Renton
Gig Harbor
3
2
203
Woodinville
Shoreline
Kirkland
Redmond
Bellevue
202
Sea-Tac
16
McCleary 108
109
Union
106
Snohomish
9
405
Puget
Sound
Belfair
Moclips
Copalis Beach
Seattle
Port Orchard
119
Hoodsport
Pacific Beach
Bainbridge
Island
Bremerton
Quinault
Ocean
KITSAP
3
101
Lake
Quinault
Pacific
SNOHOMISH
92
525
Port
Freeland
Langley
Hadlock
Olympic
National
Park
.
Ho h
R.
Arlington
Camano
Island
Greenbank
20
uc
D
110
101
530
Coupeville
Port
Townsend
Port Angeles
Lake
Crescent
S ol
CLALLAM
La Push
9
20
113
Marblemount
Oak Harbor
Whidbey Island
112
Ross
Lake
Rockport
SKAGIT
Mount Vernon
La Conner
20
Victoria
Sekiu
Clallum
Bay
Ozette
Lake
Burlington
20 20
de F
uca
Lake
Concrete Shannon
20
Skagit R.
SedroWoolley
Anacortes
Lopez Island
North
Cascades
National
Park
9
5
11
Friday Harbor
542
542
Bellingham
3
1
Abbotsford
Carson
84
Bingen
30
Goldendale
C
Lyle
Maryhill
14
North Bonneville
35
The Dalles
205
197
9
C A N A D A
U . S .
Pasayten
Wilderness
3
3
Osoyoos
Oroville
97
Northport
25
R.
Curlew
Osoyoos
Lake
Trail
21
um
395
bia
Ione
Winthrop
Stehekin
FERRY
155
Spoka
Coulee Dam
R.
at c
h ee
2
R.
2
Almira
Harrington
17
Wenatchee
Odessa
R.
ia
Ephrata
195
90
28
Ritzville
Moses Lake
Lind
262
26
Steptoe
395
WHITMAN
ADAMS
17
21
Othello
26
261
Union Gap
127
24
Zillah
240
22
Sunnyside
12
R.
ma
Grandview
Yaki
82
225
Richland
Prosser
97
82
221
395
14
Clarkston
124
Lake
Wallula
Dayton
Prescott
Pasco
Kennewick
Lewiston
193
12
k
Sna
BENTON
Toppenish
Pataha
eR
241
Pomeroy
Starbuck
FRANKLIN
Uniontown
.
395
Colton
GARFIELD
261
95
195
260
Connell
24
97
Moscow
Pullman
Selah
Yakima
Palouse
27
Washtucna
24
12
272
Colfax
26
243
27
195
23
90
Potholes
Res.
Vantage
90
Tekoa
271
GRANT
George
82
904
395
Rosalia
283
95
Coeur
d’Alene
Lake
I D A H O
281
27
Cheney
Quincy
KITTITAS
90
SPOKANE
231
23
Soap Lake
Rock Island
Ellensburg
Spokane
LINCOLN
Coulee City
21
28
53
Post Falls
Couer
d’Alene
Opportunity
97
97
41
2
Davenport
Cashmere
b
206
291
Wilbur
155
DOUGLAS
Orondo
Colum
Deer Park
ne
W
en
2
231
174
Banks
Lake
172
2
Loon Lake
Springdale
Waterville
Leavenworth
20
395
174
Chelan
97A
Usk
211 Newport
Bridgeport
17
971
STEVENS
Keller
PEND
OREILLE
Chewelah
mbia R.
Colu
Brewster
57
Cusick
25
21
97
Pateros
207
Colville
Franklin D.
Roosevelt
Lake
Okanogan
153
CHELAN
20
Omak
Twisp
Lake
Chelan
Okanogan R
.
97
Conconully
20
Kettle Falls
.
eR
reill
Mazama
20
Republic
20
O
Pend
Tonasket
Metaline
Falls
31
Curlew
Lake
OKANOGAN
3
Co
l
3
WALLA WALLA
COLUMBIA
Waitburg
ASOTIN
Umatilla
National Forest
129
Wallula
12
Walla Walla
11
O R E G O N
Hells
Canyon
3
14
umbia R.
Col
74
19
97
30
84
Washington State
y R.
ScenicWA.com 83

grant goodeve - Scenic Washington

Transcription

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