SO-ICE Conditions 2011/2012 - things are alright!

Transcription

SO-ICE Conditions 2011/2012 - things are
alright!
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Ice climbing is very dangerous. Even with proper instruction, you will get hurt and die.
None of the observations below (they're all lies by the way), and I in no way, shape or
form encourage you to ice climb. It's simply not that pleasant when compared to the joys
of being stuck in bottom less white pow after going in for a face plant! This is all just
meant for entertainment purposes only. For those STILL interested in trying ice climbing:
better to go to your local climbing gym, stand around in bucket of cold water, tape cold
packs to your wrists and climb a route once every hour... However, if you're still keen
then read on! You are solely responsible for your own actions.
Feel free to send observations and non-stupid questions to akolosAAAAThotmailDOOTcom
(Image file names describe the route pictured.)
ACCESS NOTES
Consider becoming a member of the OAC and supporting YOUR access to the crags!
SO Ice Conditions 2011/2012
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Do not believe everything you hear.
Do not desire everything you see.
Do not proceed to do everything you can do...
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New route recap:
Overwhelmed M5+ (Simard, Kolos; Feb 26, 2012)
Overwhelmed (a.k.a. Scratch and Sniff) is found on the wall above the end of the first beaver pond at McCauley.
Go up the left corner system. At the pedestal half way up, place some good pieces in a horizontal and step up. A
liberated flake has left a great hook and pro placements. Move back right into the corner and continue to the top.
Even though everything you need is there, it climbs harder than it looks. The name is retrospective and not in
reference to feelings mid-climb.
Metamorphosis M10 (Kutcher; Jan 22, 2012)
The line to the left of Where Egos Dare. Climb up past the station, and another bolt to the big hanger at the top.
Surmount and dance on top.
Every Day is Training, Every Day is Real M5 (Kolos; Jan 22, 2012)
Found to the right of Turn for the Douche at Diamond Lake. Pass a slight bulge with some face climbing.
Traverse left into a corner and up to the sheet of ice. Lower off the first shrub rather than challenging the
vertical bushwack. If you find a long Lost Arrow in the snow, but likely deep in the fissure below the route,
keep it handy for the climb.
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APPROACH UPDATES:
The access information for the Little Wren Lake cliffs gives direction to pull off on a lane just before the cliffs
are visible and then look for a parking spot on the right.
The lane before the cliffs, is actually a snowmobile access lane only in the winter and is quite narrow. It may be
better to park on the highway and approach on foot.
LOST AND FOUND:
Ice screw found at Kushog. Jamie - gimme a shout!
March 22-25 - Can Rocks
Spent a few days visiting Danyo, climbing and kicking the tires on his truck. Conditions along the parkway are
decent at this time of year, but the sun is strong. Patches of ice that are hidden in the shade, even if just a bit
longer than the rest offer good ice. So on Weeping Wall for example choose WW Right, instead of WW
Central... Other observations of note: Ice Nine touched down. Curtain Call was big, but a sneak route allowed
one to bypass the 1 meter ice roof, by climbing a bottom less ice chimney to the rihght. Shades of Beauty and
Murchison Falls were still nice and blue. In Kananaskis, Whiteman and Redman still offer great climbing. The
roads in the Ghost offer good driving, unless you find a deep pool in a river. No not Danyo's 4x4, and yes that
dark streak on the jeep's body is the water line at its high point :-(
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March Break - Katahdin (Josh, Justin, Dave, Danylo)
We made the 21km approach to Roaring Brook (mandatory overnight) on day one, the shorter steeper approach
to Chimney Pond on day2, climbed the Cilley/Barber (IV, WI4, 2,300') on day3 (descent in a zero vis storm),
climbed Walk on the Wild Side (II WI5 200'+) on day four then did the whole 27km hike out to the van on day
five. 65km total including climbs, approaches, descents. A true mini-expedition, complete with pig-hauling
obscenities :-) Katahdin is spectacular. A true alpine amphithetre. Multiple 2000'+ technical alpine routes. It
truly belongs in a greater range. Only here in the east could multi-pitch 5's play second fiddle.
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March 4 - Bear Lake
A surprise cold snap made climbing ice hard work on Bear Lake's Frankenhooker. The ice has taken a beating
from the sun and is pretty sun bleached. Surprise snow crusts made for slow going too. Livingstone Lake's ice
on Lefty and Righty seemed pretty good from afar, reaching way down, but it's likely to be pretty rotten too, as it
gets the sun in the early afternoon (vs. Frankenhooker, which gets it in the mid-to-late afternoon). The slab on
the first pitch is good.
Feb 26 Sherbourne Lake (Danylo)
Highlander - in excellent, forgiving shape.
Sins of the Father - good solid ice.
New line between Quickening and Sins of the Father - looks interesting. Getting to the first set of anchors
includes climbing to M5. The top anchors are reached with some m8 climbing over the bulge.
Feb 26 Kushog (Anon)
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All the lines rae in. Blue Pillar looks thin and detached, but everything else was in good shape. Rumours of this
winter offering a lack of ice is just that - RUMOURS! There's plenty of ice! Go get some!
Feb 25 Fish Lake (Danylo)
Knob in the Gob – looked in from afar.
Crown of Thorns – narrow initial pillar, but still quite sturdy; lots of snice and some thin spots in the middle
section (starting to sound delaminated), but still taking decent screws; top was getting quite baked. Probably on
its last legs (although it might last longer, as we’re not scheduled for a lot of sun this week).
Premature Ejaculation – not in.
Strap a Dick to Me – the slab section was covered in snow, so not sure how much ice there was, but the steeper
exit pillar looked good.
Slabs – snow covered, but quite decent ice underneath.
Climbs among the trees – also mostly snow covered.
Feb 25 Eagle's Nest (Anon)
Dirty Harry needs a 70 m rope to set up a top rope. It's in and good. Rest of the ice is fine! The west facing
climbs are getting beat by the sun.
Feb 21 Sherbourne and Clear Lake (Matt F)
Heres a couple more for ya. We went to Sherborne today and climbed Highlander for my first time. It's harder
than it looks ;) We then ripped over to Clear and did My Turn. Both places were quite brittle and hard at the first
screw and got softer higher up.
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Feb 20 Eagle's Nest
The Curtain is blue and plenty fat. Rollercoaster should be accessed from the right to avoid private property. NF
of Eiger and Blue Angel are looking white. Dirty Harry is nicely protected in the chimney.
Feb 20 McCauley
It's that time of year again, where the sun is rising higher and higher in the sky, and the exposed ice is taking a
beating. The Blue Max Wall is loads of fun. All great fun. TIOLI's initial pillar didn't grow over the course of
the week, and a rather ambitious attempt ended up with a tail-tucked-bail. That pillar is larger up close, and
doesn't have a big attachment point. Pretty unstable, wheich when liberated will race down the approach chute
onto the belayer.
Feb 18 Elora (Nate)
Wet. Real wet... The rocks aren't frozen in place, and the routes will fall apart if you pull down on'em...
Feb 18 Bear Lake (Matt F)
Made it to Bear today and climbed Frankenhooker. It was fairly thin but in quite good shape. I think it is getting
fatter by the day.
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Feb 12 McCauley
A snowmobile made an adventurous tour in as far as the Blue Max, so the trail is much easier going now.
Continues to be on the lean side. Mr. Hide looked thin down low, but a few mixed moves got one to the mixed
ending... TIOLI's initial pillar looks close to touching down. Blue Max won't touch down this season. Neither
will the climbs to the right. Fishing for Hooks looks thin, but good.
Feb 12 Bon Echo (Nik)
Old Laughing Lady was in sorry shape. She was in mixed shape down low, leading to a sun-baked, crusty yucky
finish. Not for me...
Jan 30 Raven Lake (Danylo)
There was lots of snow, so it was challenging to see the exact conditions of the climbs. I met the lady who
ploughs out the parking lot for Raven. She confirmed that the cottage association does indeed pay for the
ploughing. The cottagers, however, weren’t around today to collect, so I left some cash at the second cottage
(red, hidden in behind a point of land of your right).
Twisted Staircase – not in
Inchworm, No One Mourns the Wicked – the ice on these mixed routes is very thin
Wet Sherpa – thin. I think there was ice all the way up the corner, but it was hard to tell, because it was covered
in snow. The top pillars are much thinner than normal.
Pacific Unknown – not in
This Ain’t Muskoka – covered in snow; looked to be thin
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Stepladder – couldn’t tell, some ice was visible, but mostly covered in snow
Mr. Poe – in (we left rap rings on a cordelette on a tree to the right of the top out)
Unknown Wall – very thin. Only Unknown Civilian is in. Bring some small nuts or small cams, if you do the
upper half after the snow ramp; the ice in the exit corner is a dry detached sheet, but there’s a nice crack at its
right edge. I, of course, didn't have any and as a result trashed my stubby. We left a sling and a maillon
(quicklink) at the top out for rapping.
Hungry Man - in.
Jan 30 Eagle's Nest
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Is in fine mid-season form. Jetstream has never been thicker! Roller Coaster can be accessed from the right via
a steep step, thus avoiding private property. NFofEiger and Blue Angel are in, but still subject to the weather.
Dirty Harry looks committing down low.
Jan 29 Kushog
(Jamie lost a screw somewhere. Gimme a shout if found.)
Medeba Boys – not in
Blue Pillar – in. Pillar is fat and good to go.
Hopscotch – not in
Keyless – not in
Spaghetti Wrestler – coming in (currently a mixed exit through spaghetti branches)
Maple Glaze – in
Caramel Coating – in
Cotton Candy – not in
Blue Boy – in
Sadly Unknown – don’t know
Jan 26 Fish Lake (Matt)
Crown of Thorns is pretty thin down low and up high - we tried to be delicate.
Jan 21 Diamond Lake
Left of WED aka WPD aka Where Angels Fear To Tread aka The Last First Great Project of Ontario...... Has
finally been freed to the top! Way to go Nate! The aesthetic line has been much talked about, looked at, tried
and attempted; it even got climbers drooling from as far away as the dark corners of the Bivy in the Dacks
(where skill, quiet competition, endurance and power abound)! The line was iced up a little more than in the
past allowing passage to the unknown upper section, which was on-sighted to the big hanging dagger and
topped out! Although this ascent may be overshadowed by Kruk's and Kennedy's efforts on Cerro Torre, which
may earn them a certain golden ice axe (or at lthe very least a nomination), this acheivement is just as
noteworthy as the line has withstood "nearly" as many efforts as the SE Ridge :-)
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(Adrienne
Tam Photo)
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Also of note: Kermit's Finger has fattened up, and a new route was climbed 10 m to the right of A Turn For The
Douche, surpassing a mixed start to gain a sheet of ice and a tree. Pictures to be added as they become available.
Jan 21 McCauley (Danylo)
Not a whole lot was in a t McCauley other than Blue Esther, the Wailing, and the 3 Stooges. Gift By Omission
and Lightweight ID are thin down low as per usual. Blue Max is nowhere near to touching down. Approach was
hard: slop on lake, deep snow in woods, holes on beaver pond ice... Very disappointing in general.
Jan 21 Waza (John)
I took Team Rouyn-Noranda for their second day of ice climbing EVER to Lac Waza. You were right - ice is
awsome. We crossed the lake, but missed the trail in the dark Friday night and set up the canvas tent (with wood
burning stove et al) 1km too far to the east. We'll do it right, next time we return: for Valentine's Day! Everyone
is welcome to join us. The ice was good, but hard. Carry on Johnny!!!
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Jan 21 Snake (Jeff H)
The Snake up in northern Ontario is in great shape, although -30 temps have made the ice bullet hard.
Jan 7/8 Dacks (Fernando)
Roaring Brook Falls looked bad from the road, but it was fine. There were water openings at both top and
bottom, but ice around was great. Nice chill climb, I had never done it before. I like the walk off down the
backside trail. Beautiful day. Crystal Ice Tower to White Line Fever was in super plastic shape, no doubt thanks
to the positive temps. The top pitch was just slush in a corner and not particularly enjoyable... although
memorable. The ropes are still drying. Lock Ness Crag is nice. I'm not sure what we did, some climbs have
touched down and were getting tr'd. With the low snow, these routes won't be growing much from snowmelt refreezing.
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Jan 8 Bow Lake(Danylo)
Crystal Pillars - only one icicle/pillar touching down
Centre Ramp - in with mostly good ice, and only one thin patch in the middle.
Right Ramp - in.
Red Rain - no.
Touch of Zorro - nope.
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Jan 5 Eagle's Nest (Danylo)
No climbing signs continue to indicate the landowner's liability concerns. The OAC is continuing to work with
him and the town in this matter. Rollercoaster is accessible using the right hand start (around the corner of the
regular start).
Rollercoaster - in.
Curtain et al - in. Ice is fat. Lots of running water.
NF of Eiger - not even close.
Blue Angel - nope.
Dirty Harry - good ice at the top, but mixed down low.
Amazing Glace - in.
Hidden Gully -first pitch is in.
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Jan 4 Diamond Lake (Danylo)
We approached the climbs along the lake, but sticking close to the shoreline. Later we ventured further onto the
lake. There were a good 3+ inches of ice everywhere we tested.
Distinct Society – touching down, but the icicles haven’t congealed and solidified yet
Guardian Angel - in.
Left of WED - thin down low. Hangers are missing on the left start, right start has the cracks iced up...
WED - there's ice in the corner the whole way up, but it's thin, just like on the FA? Careful with the big dagger
that's hanging above your head!!!
BEW - very thin. Top looked dry.
WWD - looked to be in, but the topout would be thin.
Malachite Brochade - thin, but a climbable line can be pieced together.
Ochre Silk - in, but steep and narrow, would be committing.
Blue Velvet - in.
Aqua Plush - out.
Thunderdome - no.
Kermit's Finger - out. missing ice in the middle section.
Tammy Baker's Face - just verglass.
Zero Gully - trying to come in.
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Jan 4 - Papineau (Danylo)
Not in. Only a couple of thin icicles were visible. The middle of the lake was open.
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Jan 2 - Kluke Lookout (Danylo)
Not in. Bear Lake at the base of Kluke was frozen over well.
Dec 31 - Kushog (John G)
Caramel Coating - In.
Blue Pillar - touching down, but too thin to climb at the bottom.
The lake itself was frozen, but access was gained by the Firehouse restaurant. Since it was closed, and a
collection box / signage not set up (as proposed by the OAC), parking was free.
Dec 31 - Charlevoix, Quebec
A little farther afield, but conditions are good! There was quite a dump between Christmas and New Year's, but
I'd say this area holds the best ice on the east coast right now... On Gros Bras: All Fine is thin. Petite Tet is there
if you can scratch your way past the rock slab start. Gaston is sort of there too... But they're all in hard shape.
TiCul is fat. On Mont de l'Ours La Coulee Ricard looked fat, as Le Dome on Le Dome... Cap St Francois is
huge! Ever since they diverted water from the top, all the climbs routinely come in, and come in fat! A great
crag, right above the Saguenay River!
Dec 27, 29, 31 - La Mere De Glace and Montmorency Falls (Ben and Rob)
La Mere de Glace was mostly ice with very little snow. This made for an extra approach pitch to reach the first
real pitch. Under such conditions the approach is wetter and less obvious. Given the short days, make sure you
get an early start. With more snow, the approach should be easier. Small But Beaituful, just around the corner,
looks to be in fine condition, but not faaat mind you.
Momo is in but a bit on the "tres mince" side, but still very climbable, for all to enjoy. Lots of water behind
hollow ice on the middle, wide wall.
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~ Dec 28 - Eagle's Nest (Justin and Timon)
The Curtain is coming along nicely, still thin, but climbable. Hidden Gully has nice climbing for the first 10m,
but then turns into snow over rocks... With the rain and freeze, it'll likely get much better!
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Dec 18 - Mt Chaudron, Rouyn-Noranda
What a cliff! Met John and Jimmy at the cliff - local climbers - who would have thought? Way to give'er boyz!
They report the east face gully (not in guidebook) is in good condition. The north walls appeared fat from the
approach trail. Pascal and I couldn't find Croa-Croa, but La Fracture is in interesting shape with a bit of
chandeliers, although rumours are that it comes in waay fatter. In any case, it's a classic, and close enough to
Ontario, that I'll include it in the classics section soon! Alpine steps lead one to the summit. Approach is 20
minutes.
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Dec 18 - Eagle's Nest (Justin)
Still a little scrappy, but slowly coming. Please access from the top.
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Dec 16 - Lac Waza, Rouyn-Noranda
Why did I ever doubt this consistent area at all? Faces north and the ice is steep! Ice is great, featured and long!
Great training!
Dec 11 - Eagle's Nest (w reports/pics from Ed, Ferg and Justin)
Lots of running water, so the Jetstream Wall is just a week of cooler weather away from happening.
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The rest of the cliff is pretty much barren of ice, Dirty Harry has a small streak in it.
Please continue to access the Curtain from above and not by climbing Roller Coaster. The OAC is in contact
with the landowner and the town, and optimisim remains high that everyone's concerns will be addressed in the
near future.
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SO-ICE Conditions 2011/2012 - things are alright!

Transcription

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