Getting to the - Campbell

Since 1882
Getting to the Point - Part 2

Getting to the
Part 2: Hooked
By Dan Naegle
Campbell Bosworth Machinery Co.
Needles & Awls
In this article, we’ll compare the straight needle & awl machines and their needle & awl systems.
WHAT IS A
Needle & Awl Machine?
The needle and awl machine is designed to stitch leather just as you
would if you were hand sewing. The awl is set in the head of the
machine and the needle mechanism in the base. The awl punches a
hole through the leather as it descends and a barbed needle raises
and pulls the thread through for the lock, as the awl again descends
for another stitch. The machine can be either needle or awl feed. This
produces the best quality stitch for leather goods, but it’s not recommended for sewing fibrous materials.
The Straight
Needle & Awl Machines
THE CAMPBELL (RANDALL) LOCKSTITCH
The Campbell (Randall) Lockstitch
Designed in the 1880’s, the Campbell was the first
straight needle and awl machine successfully developed. Remarkably, the original design has remained
relatively unchanged, and the machine is still manufactured to the same specifications designed almost
125 years ago. The test of time has proven this machine to be a leader in its field and a bench mark for
other machines to follow.
PROS
CONS
Awl Feed design out-performs
needle feed machines
Max Speed limited to 300 SPM
Parts Available.
Throat depth limited to 9”
Specifications
Feed Type
Awl Feed
Throat Depth
9”
Max. Capacity
3/4”
Thread
3-10 cord
Max Speed
300 SPM
Stitch Length
14-5 SPI
The Campbell High Lift
One of the strongest stitchers ever built. The High Lift
is a special order Campbell, engineered to sew up to
1-1/8”. Ideal for heavy harness, cantle stitching, bareback riggings etc.
THE CAMPBELL
HIGH LIFT
Specifications
Feed Type
Awl Feed
Throat Depth
9”
PROS
CONS
Not recommended for materials
thinner than 3/8”
Throat depth limited to 9”
Max. Capacity
1-1/8”
Thread
3-10 cord
Sews the cleanest and tightest of
all extra heavy stitchers
Max Speed
300 SPM
Stitch Length
12-5 SPI
Parts Available.
Order On-line Anytime!
www.campbell-bosworth.com
1-800-327-9420
Business Hours: Mon. - Fri., 8 am -5 PM, CT
Fax 24 Hours a Day: 1-361-293-7817
WE ACCEPT:
Since 1882
Getting to the Point - Part 2
Landis #3
The Landis 3, a cousin to the Campbell lockstitch,
has been a popular stitcher among saddle makers for
decades. The 11” throat is great for sewing saddles and
the awl feed helps get through difficult to sew work.
Although the Landis 3 was discontinued some time
during the 1960’s, some parts are being remanufactured at CBMC.
PROS
Awl Feed
11” Throat
CONS
Limited to 300 SPM
Limited parts supply.
Specifications
Feed Type
Awl Feed
Throat Depth
11”
Max. Capacity
3/4”
Thread
3-8 cord
Max Speed
300 SPM
Stitch Length
12-5 SPI
The Campbell Cyclone
The Cyclone was developed in the early 1910’s for the
developing high speed industry. Designed by USMC,
the Cyclone remains one of the best engineered needle
& awl machines ever built, with a history of low maintenance and high reliability. The machine was designed
so well, that it became too expensive to produce, with
current price estimates of over $10,000 each. Although
the machines are no longer being manufactured, parts
are still available through Campbell Bosworth. These
machines are in operation in the US and parts of Europe.
PROS
CONS
Wonderfully Engineered.
Heavy Stitching at High Speeds
Estimated retail cost nearly $10,000
Awl Feed design out-performs
needle feed machines
Max Speed limited to 500 SPM
Parts Available.
Low Maintenance Cost.
Out of production.
Specifications
PROS
Feed Type
Awl Feed
Throat Depth
12”
Max. Capacity
1”
Thread
3-16 cord
Max Speed
500 SPM
Stitch Length
12-5 SPI
Landis #16
High Speed
Large Throat
The Landis 16 is known for its speed and reliability
and is a great machine for saddlery. It was discontinued some time during the 1960’s. Some parts are being
remanufactured.
CONS
Needle Feed
Specifications
Limited Parts Availability
Feed Type
Order On-line Anytime!
www.campbell-bosworth.com
1-800-327-9420
Needle Feed
Throat Depth
9”
Max. Capacity
3/4”
Thread
3-10 cord
Max Speed
400 SPM
Stitch Length
12-3 SPI
Business Hours: Mon. - Fri., 8 am -5 PM, CT
Fax 24 Hours a Day: 1-361-293-7817
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Since 1882
Getting to the Point - Part 2
Union Lockstitch
PROS
The Union is a high-speed production work horse, and
mostly found in medium to large scale factories. The
high speed mechanics do require regular maintenance
and adjustment. Parts are available. The Union can
be a reliable machine in the hands of an experienced
operator.
High Speed
Production Machine
Parts in Stock
CONS
Needle Feed
Regular maintenance
Specifications
Feed Type
Needle Feed
Throat Depth
12”
Max. Capacity
3/4”
Thread
3-12 cord
Max Speed
800 SPM
Stitch Length
12-4 SPI
Champion Peerless & Wide Throat
PROS
Low Cost Beginner
Machine
The Champions are good beginner machines, or low
production machines. They have been obsolete for
quite some time and good, sound machines are hard
to come by. With a little work and repair, they can be a
good machine for those with a limited budget.
The Wide Throat
good for saddlery
CONS
Needle Feed - Multiple
Adjustments
Obsolete - Parts hard
to find
The Peerless 30 has a
limited throat depth of
4-3/4”
Specifications
Feed Type
Needle Feed
Throat Depth
Max. Capacity
3/4”
Thread
4-9 cord
Max Speed
300 SPM
Stitch Length
12-4 SPI
4-3/4 & 10-3/4”
American Straight Needle
The American Straight needle features an needle feed
mechanism that feeds from left to right. It is primarily found in the back corners of shoe shops, but the
American has also served harness makers and saddle
makers alike. Many craftsmen begin with this machine
because of its low cost. The experienced saddle maker
will eventually upgrade to a better machine, since the
American only offers a 4” throat depth and a limited
supply of replacement parts.
Needle Feed
Throat Depth
3-1/4”
Max. Capacity
5/8”
Thread
4-12 cord
Max Speed
300 SPM
Stitch Length
8-5 SPI
Order On-line Anytime!
Better for shoe work
CONS
Limited throat depth.
Limited parts supply.
Difficult for saddlery work.
Specifications
Feed Type
PROS
Inexpensive beginner machine
www.campbell-bosworth.com
1-800-327-9420
Business Hours: Mon. - Fri., 8 am -5 PM, CT
Fax 24 Hours a Day: 1-361-293-7817
WE ACCEPT:
Since 1882
Getting to the Point - Part 2
How to chose your
Needle & Awl system
The System:
Like closed-eye needle
machines, each needle and
awl machine was designed
with a unique system.
The system represents the
needle and awl length and
shank diameter. Currently,
Groz-Beckert is the only
manufacture of these
systems, but you can sometimes find old stock from
other manufacturers at great prices. Not all systems are
available; however, due to the simplicity of the hook
and awl design, some systems can be modified or cross
referenced to fit obsolete machines.
Synthetic Natural
Thread
Cord
Metric
Size
Campbell-Randall
Cyclone
Union Lock
Landis 3
Landis 16
N
A
N
A
N
A
0-1/2
1
0-1/2
1
11
11
160
1
1-1/2
1
1-1/2
12
12
170
1-1/2
2
1-1/2
2
13
13
180
2
2-1/2
2
2-1/2
14
14
190
2-1/2
3
2-1/2
3
15
15
200
3
3-1/2
3
3-1/2
16
16
210
3-1/2
4
3-1/2
4
17
17
138
3
150
207
4
277
5
346
6
415
7
554
8
693
9
Synthetic
Thread
Natural
Cord
Metric
Size
277
5
160
346
6
170
415
7
180
554
8
190
American
Champion
N
A
N
A
5
5
5
4
6
6
4
3
7
7
3
2
--
--
2
1
The Needle Size:
Each machine manufacturer assigned a number system
to represent the needle & awl size. Groz-Beckert marks
their needles with the universal metric size on the shank,
i.e. GB-180. The old Torington needles are marked with
the original system needle size, as did Diamond / Organ
needles. Refer to the chart below to match your needle
size, represented in the “N” column.
The Awl Size:
The awl sizes should be a larger than the needle diameter. Really difficult materials, such as hard leathers, coated webbing, and plastics, may require an even
larger size. The Needle to Thread Chart shown below
also includes the recommended awl size to use with the
needle, as shown in the “A” column. These combinations are recommended by the manufacturer and will
vary by the application and thread type. Remember that
the smallest needle and awl combination will produce
the cleanest looking stitch, but if it is too small, you’ll
skip stitches or split your thread.
The Awl Point:
The universal style for needle and awl machines is the
chisel point. The chisel point produces a clean hole that
can be set by the operator to achieve a variety of stitch
styles, as seen below. Other discontinued styles included
square awl for shoe work, the oval point, and the corner
stitch point.
The American & Champion needle charts are rated for harder shoe leathers.
Harness and saddle leathers will allow for a smaller needle and awl set.
Tech Tip: If problems occur while sewing, check the needle
first. Burrs can cause snags, bent needles will also cause
skipped stitches, and if your needle is set too low, you will break
your thread. A damaged needle can be the quickest and cheapest repair to an ill mannered machine.
All in Awl…
The closed eye needle machine has become more popular in recent years, mostly due to its availability and
ease of use, but it will never replace the needle & awl. The needle & awl machine was designed for leather,
and nothing can compare it the look, strength, and tightness of its stitch. These machines excel heavy leather
stitching and are unbeatable. The needle & awl has been stitching strong for over a hundred years, and they
will continue to hold their place in the leather stitching market for decades to come.
Order On-line Anytime!
www.campbell-bosworth.com
1-800-327-9420
Business Hours: Mon. - Fri., 8 am -5 PM, CT
Fax 24 Hours a Day: 1-361-293-7817
WE ACCEPT: