as - Solitaire Magazine

awards fever
italy’s best
Fope
JJewels Milano
Roberto Coin
Verdi Gioielli
Anne Hathaway
and jewels from
the red carpet
PLUS:
Trend
reports from
SIHH and
VicenzaOro
masters of metal
Jack du Rose
Pierre Sterlé
Tom Rucker
64
March — May 2013
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SIGN IN
the
ingof
K
Metals
THIS ISSUE
SHOWCASES
THE BEST IN
GOLD DESIGN
AND SWOONWORTHY NEW
COLLECTIONS
FROM AROUND
THE WORLD
G
old has long been considered the most valuable
of metals, and for good reason: it keeps its shine
even when buried for thousands of years, and
takes a billion pounds of igneous rock to
recover a mere four pounds of the metal,
making it even rarer than diamonds.
Among its extraordinary qualities, gold — especially in yellow
and pink tones — possesses unparalleled warmth when
transformed into jewellery, making it the material of choice for
many Asian designers like Amee Philips, Cindy Chao, Jessie Foo
Yuli and the late Munnu Kasliwal.
This issue showcases the best in gold design, from the refined
style of 20th century French jeweller Pierre Sterlé, to the cuttingedge works of Tom Rucker and his GEO.2 laser technique. We
feature new technologies in gold jewellery making, such as 3D
printing, and unique finishes seen on timepieces.
We also shine the spotlight on top trends seen at the recent
VicenzaOro show, and profile some of the biggest jewellery names
in Milan, Vicenza and Venice — Italy’s jewel hubs.
That is not all. Our celebrity cover model Maggie Grace (from
the TV series Lost and movie Taken) dons pieces from Bulgari’s
new high-jewellery line. This issue also features swoon-worthy new
collections from around the world. From Denmark, internationally
acclaimed designer-goldsmiths present jewellery specially made for
the ballet La Bayaderé. We meet avant-garde designer Jennifer Trask
from the US, who creates jewellery in bone; and in London, we
speak with metal master Jack du Rose, whose award-winning works
include a collaboration with Damien Hirst.
Plus, with mechanical watchmaking more vibrant than ever —
especially for women’s models — we’ve dedicated more pages to
timepieces. We cover novelties from one of the biggest shows of the
year, Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva,
get to know watch designer Janek Deleskiewicz, and present the
latest in design and trends under a new section called Solitaire Time.
With this, we endeavour to keep you informed and inspired.
Enjoy the read!
Emilie Yabut-Razon
Editor
8
CONTENT
38
ontents
8
SIGN IN
The King Of Metals
14
TEAM
20
BOUTIQUE
New & Exclusive
FACETS
36
DECO DECADENCE
Tempting jewels on red carpets
38
ROCOCO ROCKS
Baroque-inspired earrings
44
METAL WORKS
Floral statements in curled gold
46
GOLDEN EDEN
Fascinating jewellery inspired by the
Château Versailles
22
54
THE SERPENT’S TRACE
An auspicious motif leaves a sophisticated
mark
56
ORBITING THE NIGHT SKY
Hannah Martin presents a new collection
58
ROMANTIC ASYMMETRY
Coloured stones make their mark in unique
jewellery
66
GOLDEN CHARMERS
Venetian brooches offer a brilliant blast
from the past
70
SMELLING THE ROSES
Falling in love with the colour of young love
76
ROCK MUSE
Beauty reflected in opals
78
REGAL TIES
A passionate jeweller celebrates its heritage
20
10
84
TALENT TO SPARE
One-of-a-kind creations and stackable gems
88
TREASURED TROVES
Stylish cases for timeless jewels
106
HOT COUTURE
Black diamonds and gold
Necklace by Fabergé
Mila Kunis wears Zambian emeralds from Gemfields, the world’s leading producer of ethically-sourced coloured gemstones.
Beauty, set in stone. www.gemfields.co.uk +44 (0)20 7518 3400
CONTENT
ontents
94
90
DESIGN
40
ENDURING GRACE
When jewels are the ultimate arbiters
of style
50
WRITTEN IN BONE
Jennifer Trask’s unusual inspirations
72
JAIPUR STYLE
Paying homage to the late Munnu Kasliwal
74
UNBREAKABLE BONDS
Italy’s maestro of mesh, Fope
86
PERFECT PULSE
Tom Rucker’s laser-created jewels
90
THE GOLDEN TOUCH
Pierre Sterlé’s legacy
104
STRENGTH & BEAUTY
Danish designers illustrate the spirit of
the ballet, La Bayaderé
REVIEW
94
WOMEN ON TOP
Ladies’ watches at the Salon International
de la Haute Horlogerie
100
TREND SETTERS
Italian jewellers set the style for gems at
the VicenzaOro
TIME
48
KNOWLEDGE
CHIMING BEAUTY
Minute repeaters are back in glittering
fashion
68
80
STYLE
Secret watches conceal time with jewelled
virtuosity
108
118
Trends in contemporary gold collections
125
ATELIER
128
GALAS
Sparkling Soirées
THE PRINCESS HAS ARRIVED
138
THE METALLURGIST
140
RING GUIDE
Jack du Rose
142
JEWELLERY SHOW DIARY
RISE OF THE PHOENIX
144
JEWEL BOX
Amee Philips
12
STAR GEMS
A Quarterly Forecast
Anne Hathaway
64
LACED & LAYERED
IN HIS ELEMENT
INTERVIEW
60
GEMS FOR GENTS
Jewellery is now finding favour in a new
generation of men
GILDED HOURS
A one-on-one with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s
Janek Deleskiewicz
32
GOLD PRINTING
Man and machine create golden magic
HIDEAWAY GEMS
Gold endures as the premier material for
keeping time
114
116
Gilded Racer
TEAM
CONTENT
EDITOR Emilie Yabut-Razon
MASTHEAD & TEMPLATES Sylvia Weimer / Spacelabdesign Sydney
BUSINESS EDITOR Rainer Sigel
EDITORS Katrina Balmaceda, Sandy Tan
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Charmaine Tai
CONTRIBUTORS
Aniko Navai, Charlene Co, Lisa-Ann Lee, Lynnette Lee, Melissa Pearce,
Nina Hald, Olive Cuenca
COMPANY
PUBLISHER Rainer Sigel
MANAGING DIRECTOR Michelle Tay
SENIOR MANAGER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Jaime Lim
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVE Shirleen Low
CIRCULATION & PRODUCTION MANAGER Caroline Rayney
OFFICE MANAGER Winnie Lim
MARKETING ASSISTANT Anne Goh
CONTACT
120 Lower Delta Road #13-11
Cendex Centre, Singapore 169208
T: +65 6273 0620
F: +65 6273 0632
Passion for jewellery runs in Aniko Navai’s family.
Her grandmother, a great beauty, had a collection
of European Art Deco diamonds, and her mother
accessorised her haute couture Dior gowns
with custom-made pieces by Cartier. Throw in
her Hollywood connections, and you’ve got the
perfect jewellery correspondent to the stars. In this
issue, she interviews Oscar hopeful and current
Hollywood It girl Anne Hathaway.
Aside from covering the movers and shakers of
the industry, Sydney-based writer Melissa Pearce
enjoys profiling emerging design talent and iconic
brands. In this issue, she does a one-on-one with
avant-garde jewellery designer Jack du Rose.
Beyond the jewellery box, she also files travel
and lifestyle features and is a contributor to an
Australian travel publication. Melissa is restless by
nature and will journey far for a good meal.
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Printed by KHL Printing Co, Singapore
MICA(P)144/09/2012
In this issue, Lisa-Ann Lee finds out why an
increasing number of men are taking a shine
to jewelled accessories. Apart from exploring
trends in the jewellery industry, she also writes
about interior design, the arts and luxury. Her
work has appeared in prestigious publications
in the region.
Lynnette Lee’s affair with luxury began right
here at Solitaire, picking out trends in jewellery,
horology, fashion and the red carpet. This issue,
she talks to Siddharth Kasliwal, son and successor
of the late great Munnu Kasliwal, about his
father’s legacy. Having lived in Singapore, Tokyo
and Hong Kong, Lynnette loves making sense of
quirky trends and is always inspired to see the
beauty in a city.
COVER PHOTO CREDITS
PHOTOGRAPHER Contarsy+Karecha for Highmark Studios
MODEL Maggie Grace
STYLIST Nikko Kefalas
HAIR Naomi Porto
MAKE UP Roberto Morelli –Link NYLA
MANICURE Ann Marie Walts
ON MODEL
6LON&KLijRQDQG/DFH*RZQZLWKNQRWWHG6NLUWE\&$5/260,(/(
Serpenti yellow gold necklace with peridot and moon quartz beads, and pavé-set
diamond scales (9,00 cts), SGD 84,900, BULGARI
Serpenti yellow gold one coil bracelet with peridot head and alternating pavé-set
diamond scales (4,20 cts), from SGD 42,500, BULGARI
Serpenti yellow gold one coil ring with peridot head and pavé-set diamond scales
(1,40 cts), SGD 15,950, BULGARI
Serpenti yellow gold earrings with peridot and moon quartz beads, and pavé-set
diamond scales (1,20 cts), SGD 23,0000, BULGARI
ATELIER OPENER
Image courtesy of Piaget
14
Baselworld 2013
Hall 2.2, Booth A09
Bangkok, Baechtold, Tel +662 939 7028 30 / Hong Kong, King Fook, Tel +852 2526 6786
Kuala Lumpur, DeGem, Tel +603 2282 3618 / Nagoya, Sunmenard, Tel +81 52 962 4755
Shenzen, Frank & Label, Tel +86 0755 2658 0852 / Singapore, DeGem, Tel: +65 6688 7032
BOUTIQUE
Cleopatra’s
Treasure
Azza Fahmy combines mythology and
jewellery in its Pharaonic Collection,
inspired by the art and architecture
of the new Kingdom and the Amarna
periods of ancient Egypt. Love of nature
is elegantly expressed in the Vulture
Collar, which shows the bird spreading
its wings. Inspired by Queen Aahotep’s
armlet (circa 1540 BC), the necklace
comes in gold and silver, with a scarab as
a clasp. www.azzafahmy.com
FLYINGFREE
Known for its artistic enamel designs, Frey Wille’s Emotional
Spiral from the Soirée Viennoise Clutch Collection features
a colourful abstract on its yellow gold and rhodiumpalladium plated trim. Made in Italian lamb leather, the
clutch has a detachable chain and is available in a variety of
designs. www.freywille.com
MOTION
RAY
Art Deco by designer
Osvaldo Marzo is the first
jewel flashlight that can be worn on a
gold or silver necklace or used as a key
ring. Made from ebony, satinwood, mother
of pearl and 14k gold, the flashlight is
encrusted in black and white diamonds,
coral, and Akoya pearls. Only available
online, each piece is unique and made to
order. www.eluxio.com
Precious
Project
La Putri presents the IVY collection, which showcases two
decades of work by jeweller Vladyslav Yavorskyy. Each piece is
one of a kind and handcrafted using gemstones of the highest
quality, displaying classic design with a modern twist. The Star
Blue Sapphire earrings feature two unheated sapphires totalling
24.88 carats, surrounded by diamonds. www.laputri.com
Coated Treasures
Italian jeweller Nanis releases its latest collection made up
of charming round-shaped pendants in yellow or rose gold
studded with black and white diamonds. Named Africa
after the coats of giraffes found in the region, the series also
includes rings in yellow gold and diamonds with drops of
cabochon-cut natural stones. www.nanis.it
20
Ph paolorutigliano.com
Optic Chic Collection - www.leaderline.it
VICENZAORO - BASELWORLD - INHORGENTA - JA - JCK
BOUTIQUE
Q
GOLDEN
ROUND
TianPo’s Gold Lovin’ collection features
jewellery in 24k yellow gold, using circles as
the main motifs. The series plays with different
finishes and textures. The Gold Lovin’ ring
is created with a wave design to make fingers
look more slender. The set also includes two
necklaces. www.tianpo.com
astrale
visions
The latest watches from Bulgari’s Astrale
collection feature a rainbow of gemstones in
various cuts, including cabochon, teardrop and
heart shape. Available in either 18k pink or
white gold, 66 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling
1.63 carats create the backdrop for the coloured
gems, set in spirals around the mother-of-pearl
dial. Each 36mm watch is fitted with a quartz
movement. www.bulgari.com
Known for his whimsical designs, Florentine jeweller
Alessandro Dari has released a collection called
Il Giardino Della Vita (Garden of Life). He pays
homage to the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital
of Innocents) — a historical building in Florence —
with the Garden Of Life ring, showing the intricate
façade in gold and using an egg-shaped amethyst
as the centrepiece. The piece is also encrusted with
rubies and diamonds, and finished in yellow gold,
silver and bronze. www.alessandrodari.com
Dedicated
Cadence
VELVET
Dream
Swiss watchmaker Roger Dubuis has chosen
fashion icon Daphne Guinness to be the face
of its Velvet collection, a series of ladies watches
encrusted with gems. Guinness — in this photo by
renowned photographer Nick Knight — is wearing
the Roger Dubuis Velvet Diamonds, with a 36mm
pink gold case set with 100 diamonds. White
transfer Roman numerals on the mother-of-pearl
dial are enhanced with a rose gold fillet. The watch
is fitted with the self-winding movement RB833.
www.rogerdubuis.com
22
Ph paolorutigliano.com
www.jjewels.it - Barocco Collection
VICENZAORO - BASELWORLD - INHORGENTA - JA - JCK
BOUTIQUE
Woven
Allure
Florentine jewellery designer Carolina
Bucci launches Fred Pinet, a silk woven
wrap bracelet in 18k yellow gold that can
also be worn as a scarf. The intricate piece
has been created with Bucci’s signature
style of using a textile loom to weave the
gold and silk threads.
www.carolinabucci.com
EVERYTHING’S
ROSEY
With a rose as the central motif, French jeweller
Bliss Rose’s Augustine collection showcases a
brooch, bracelet and five rings in 18k pink gold,
with cognac and brown diamonds in various sizes.
An agate oval slab serves as the base for the coral
rose centrepiece. www.blissrose.fr
Tropic
Thunder
Jewelmer unveils its Spring/
Summer 2013 collection, The
Tropics, comprising necklaces, rings,
a bangle, and a pair of earrings set
with diamonds and either one or two
golden South Sea pearls in 18k gold.
Inspired by rich rainforests, the jewels
form delicate leaf patterns.
www.jewelmer.com
Fiery
Fashion
WINNINGSWING
Branching out into fine jewellery, Omega releases its Aqua Swing collection inspired
by the Seamaster watch’s wave design. Crafted in 18k yellow, pink and white gold, the
rings are either polished or set with diamonds, and can also come in white or black
ceramic. The rings’ unique shapes are designed for stacking. www.omegawatches.com
24
Hong Kong’s TSL Jewellery and fashion
designer Vivienne Tam have collaborated to
launch a fine Jewellery Collection inspired
by the five elements in Chinese chorology —
Metal, Wood, Water, Fire and Earth. For the
Fire collection, an 18k yellow, white and rose
gold with garnet necklace at 9.94 carats is
paired with a set of matching earrings at 6.46
carats. www.tsljewellery.com
BOUTIQUE
Treasure
Trove
Chopard’s new line of jewellery is meant to
match the Imperiale watch they redesigned
in 2010. Various gems are used for the
motif that is inspired by the embroidery
used to decorate imperial gowns and
cushions. A bracelet, pendants, rings
and earrings complete the set. The large
Imperiale pendant comes in 18k rose gold
with either a pink quartz or amethyst.
www.chopard.com
PRIZED
Information
Apophis, the latest creation from
ZaNa Design, is a USB flash drive
that uses a meterorite as one of its
materials. Made of African Black
Wood, the device is also accented in
either 925 silver or 18k yellow gold.
Each flash drive comes with a 64GB
capacity and a lifetime warranty.
www.zanadesign.eu
Swirl
Inspired
Damiani presents a decadent cuff
called Décor studded with 16.15 carats
of diamonds set in white gold, forming
swirl patterns that wrap around the
wrist. The architectural design is kept in
place with a spring lock. The piece has
matching rings and earrings, in white
and black diamonds. www.damiani.it
LimitedBubbles
New York jeweller Paolo Costagli has released the Decision
Dice as part of his Bespoke Collection. Offered in pairs,
the dice is made of solid 18k yellow gold, and each side
is embedded with diamonds that form either Y or N, a
humorous and luxurious solution for busy women who need
to make fast decisions. www.paolocostagli.com
Dutch luxury designer Van Perckens has created the world’s most
expensive champagne cooler in solid 20k gold — about 7kg — in
combination with precious stones. The limited edition Nr. 8 also comes
in sterling silver, and silver with gold plating. www.vanperckens.com
26
DECIDING
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INTERVIEW
32
ANNE HATHAWAY
the
by Aniko Navai
that has arrived
From an endearing royal in the Princess Diaries series,
to Jake Gyllenhaal’s pained yet stoic wife in Brokeback
Mountain, Anne Hathaway has blossomed into one of
Hollywood’s most prolific young actresses.
A
OPPOSITE
Anne Hathaway wears
The Tiffany Lucida Star
diamond necklace valued at USD10 million
to the 2011 Academy
Awards. The Tiffany &
Co platinum necklace
is set with 94 carats of
diamonds in platinum
nne Hathway has
grown out of her
Disney ball gowns,
successfully reinventing
herself through
challenging roles, including one that has earned
her a Golden Globe and Critics Choice Award
this year as Fantine in the movie version of
the musical Les Miserables.When I warned her
last November that she wouldn’t be spending
many nights in her jammies this awards season,
Hathaway got teary-eyed. She didn’t want to jinx
the biggest reward lurking on the horizon.
It was serendipity that her father watched
Les Miserables when the musical first opened
in London’s West End, and brought home
the cassette tape as soon as it was released.
Hathaway’s mother got cast as an understudy
for the first Fantine on the US stage. When
Hathaway learned that Hugh Jackman was
pushing for the film to become a reality, she
moved mountains to get the part. She happily
cut her trademark tresses and dramatically
changed her vocal approach so she could
perform and sing live for Fantine’s close-ups.
She got her SAG card when she was 14,
and has loved every minute of it since. Her
squeaky clean image perfectly matched the
young royal in the Princess Diaries series, and
for a while in real life, she tried to emulate
the people-pleasing lady she thought the
world expected a Disney princess to be.
She almost paid for living in a bubble too
long. “I met a lot of bad ones,” Hathaway
recently admitted, talking about her past
romantic choices — including a famously
disastrous relationship with a boyfriend who
got arrested for global fraud. Hathaway was
lucky to get out with her image untarnished.
With all that behind her now, Hathaway,
now 30, is a happily married Hollywood
star celebrating a blossoming career. Her
husband, Brown graduate and actor Adam
Shulman, is the creative force behind James
Banks Design, a jewellery studio named
after his grandfather. Schulman actually
co-designed the engagement ring he gave
Hathaway with Kwiat jewellers. Hathaway
gushes, “It’s the most precious piece of
jewellery I have!”
33
INTERVIEW
FROM LEFT TO
RIGHT
Anne Hathaway with
diamond studs at
the Les Miserables
premiere in New York;
Anne wears Chanel’s
Franges Swing and
Plume bracelets as well
as Camelia earrings,
all in white gold with
diamonds, to the 2013
Golden Globe Awards,
where she would win
the award for Best
Supporting Actress
I REMEMBER QUITE A FEW YEARS
AGO YOU WERE SITTING IN THAT
CHAIR FIDGETING, AND HERE YOU
ARE, A GROWN WOMAN, VERY MUCH
COMFORTABLE IN HER SKIN. CAN
YOU GIVE US A LITTLE INSIGHT
INTO YOUR JOURNEY?
I would love to disagree with you but
it’s totally true. I think, part of it was just
learning what all this is. I think one of the
most important parts of my journey over the
past dozen years is that I have embarrassed
myself again and again, and I have failed
again and again, and eventually that all adds
up, and gives you strength of character. So I
just feel a little bit more comfortable. I know
what’s coming. I don’t have to be so afraid
of everyone anymore. Personally, I’m just
living a happy life now — a very authentic life
surrounded by people that I love. I’m deeply
in love in my marriage, and that of course has
had a profound effect on me. AND PROFESSIONALLY?
I’ve gotten more opportunities as an actress
to grow and I just feel very fortunate that
I’ve gotten work with directors who took me
into roles before I was ready and helped me
achieve something that was better than what I
had done before. THERE HAVE BEEN MANY
ACTRESSES PLAYING FANTINE,
BUT YOUR PERFORMANCE IS AN
ABSOLUTE STANDOUT. WHICH
34
ACTRESS HAS INFLUENCED YOUR
PORTRAYAL?
The most memorable performance of I
Dreamed A Dream is the one that my mother
gave for me. My mother understudied the
role of Fantine when I was seven years old
in the first national tour of Les Mis. That was
the moment that this musical and my soul
fused because I love my mother so much and
because of her powerful performance I felt
Fantine’s suffering much more. THIS PAST AWARDS SEASON WE’VE
SEEN YOU IN VALENTINO, CHANEL
AND GIANBATTISTA VALLI. HOW DO
YOU FEEL ABOUT DRESSING UP FOR
THE RED CARPET?
I love it. I’ve come to a point where I think
they’re so fun because of that level of
attention to detail. I don’t have time to do
it every day — making sure your nails are
perfect, hair is conditioned, skin is exfoliated,
and you have that glow. Then you get to wear
a beautiful dress. When it comes to my own
HOW ARE YOU BECOMING A BETTER life I’m as low maintenance as they get, but I
PERSON?
like the red carpet because it’s a chance to let
I was very impatient growing up — very
my inner drag queen shine.
impatient with myself, with the way time would
move. I just wanted everything to go faster
DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST
WATCH YOU EVER RECEIVED?
and as a result I missed a lot of things. So all
I’m trying to do now is respect the speed that Yes. I received an award from the Palm Springs
time moves and be much more patient and
Film Festival a number of years ago and I got
forgiving of myself. I usually keep myself pretty a watch from that, a Cartier Tank watch that I
busy but Les Mis needed a long recovery time wear. But my first watch was a Seiko, and it was
so my next film won’t be till next year. a birthday present for my 13th birthday.
“I love the red carpet, I think they’re so fun
because of that level of attention to detail”
FACETS
AWARDS FEVER
by Lynnette Lee
Tassels, bold geometry and
architectural shapes are the
stars this awards season
Whether they were rocking old Hollywood curls, blackand-white ensembles, or gorgeous embroidered gowns,
this year’s screen queens paired their glamorous couture
with Art Deco diamonds.
Amy Adams, Marion Cotillard and Jennifer Lawrence
chose delicate jewels with swirling motifs from Tiffany
& Co. and Chopard, while Claire Danes and Downton
Abbey’s Michelle Dockery paraded chunkier pieces,
including a huge black diamond cocktail ring from Neil
Lane, and Bulgari earrings with alternating emeralds and
diamonds set in gold. Deco details were also spotted in the
large, luxe pieces worn by Helen Hunt and Ellie Kemper.
Earrings were the jewels of choice this season,
with Nina Dobrev’s string of shapes, Julianne Moore’s
arabesque sunbursts and Sofia Vergara’s massive diamond
and ruby chandeliers stealing the spotlight.
This year’s screen queens
paired their glamorous couture
with Art Deco diamonds
36
C
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT
The Center of My Universe pendant
Th
and ring by Rachminov for
an
Forevermark; Jennifer Lawrence
Fo
wears Chopard diamonds to the
we
Screen Actors Guild awards;
Sc
Julianne Moore wears Bulgari to the
Ju
Golden Globes; earrings in yellow
G
gold with more than 20cts of oval,
go
pear-shaped and pave diamonds
pe
from Bulgari; Stacey Kiebler wears
fro
A.Link for Forevermark diamonds
A
to the Golden Globes; Bulgari’s
Serpenti bracelet in white gold with
Se
more than 50cts of diamonds; A.
m
Link for Forevermark lattice band
Li
FOPE.COM
ONLY THE ORIGINAL FLEXIBLE BRACELET IS MARKED
FACETS
BAROQUE OPULENCE
by Lynnette Lee
Rococo
Rocks
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM
Fancy yellow and
colourless diamond
drop earrings, KINGFOOK; Earrings in white
gold with 2 Colombia
sugar loaf emeralds
(33.22cts), amethysts
and purple sapphires,
DE GRISOGONO;
Belle earrings in white
gold with tanzanite, blue
sapphires, amethysts and
rubellites, CHOPARD;
High jewellery earrings
with 2 pear-shaped emeralds (9.43cts), and 16
square diamonds in white
gold, CHOPARD;
Vermeil earrings with
blue topaz and iolites and
pearls, PERCOSSI PAPI
Get decadent with baroqueinspired earrings dripping with
precious and antique gems
Ever since Dolce & Gabbana debuted their collection of gilded
threads and matching jewellery last fall, baroque has become the
new ‘last word’ in making a sartorial statement.
Inspired by the hyper-opulent art movement that started
in Italy in the 17th century, baroque styling is all about
embellishing yourself with jewels — both on the body and
clothes. Decorative flourishes and tapestry motifs make for a
craftsman’s masterpiece, and are perfect for a glam-rock appeal.
Long, face-framing earrings are essential to this dramatic
look, so go all out with kaleidoscopic gems, antique-style
surrounds or fabulous filigree. For a 21st century touch, go for
pairs that are mirror images of each other.
Baroque is all about
embellishing yourself with jewels
38
DESIGN
VERDI GIOIELLI
by Lynnette Lee
Enduring
Grace
Verdi Gioielli’s Giovanna Protti
explains why jewels are the
ultimate arbiters of style
40
OPPOSITE PAGE
Chain cuff in 18k gold
and diamonds
THIS PAGE
Coiled earrings in 18k
gold and diamonds;
drop earrings in gold
with pink and yellow
sapphires
I
n the ’60s, go-go boots
and Day-Glo jewels were
the look to get. The ’70s
brought the rise of hippies,
feathers and psychedelic baubles. The ’80s
were all about big silhouettes, while the ’90s
celebrated minimalism and futuristic shapes.
The new millennia brought yet more trends
to the fore, like platforms, skinny jeans and
boyfriend blazers.
So what’s a style-conscious woman to
do? How do you wear what you like without
looking slightly out of the loop? For starters,
try looking at your jewels. Jewellery trends
move with the pace of overall life changes
and human eras, not at the speed of the
seasons. With good jewellery, fashions don’t
lose their shine quite so quickly, if ever. Pieces
made decades ago can still be considered
exquisite today, as more time is spent to
appreciate, touch and hold them. As any true
aficionado knows, generations come and go,
but jewels can last through the ages. After all,
if diamonds were disposable, what else could
we hold dear over generations?
The jewellery world is an excellent place to
look for inspiration to this sartorial problem,
and like in fashion, the Italians know more
about it than most. According to Giovanna
Protti, art director of Italian couture jeweller
Verdi Gioielli for more than 20 years,
diamonds, gold and gems are merely objects
if they are not imbued with personality. A
piece should tug at your emotions and come
to life when you put it on. The key to finding
enduring style is in the dream you create
for yourself when you discover a jewel you
True style lies in elegance,
WSTLMWXMGEXMSRERHVIÁRIQIRX
41
DESIGN
8LIOI]XSÁRHMRKIRHYVMRKWX]PIMWMRXLI
HVIEQ]SYGVIEXIJSV]SYVWIPJ[LIR]SY
HMWGSZIVENI[IP]SYMHIRXMJ][MXL
FROM TOP TO
BOTTOM
Cuffs with multicoloured gems in 18k
gold; interlocking
rings in 18k white gold
with black and white
diamonds; white and
rose gold bangles with
pearl and diamond
accents
42
identify with. Jewels are precious, meant to
last more than a lifetime. And like any Italian
will tell you, or any visit to Venice, Florence
or Rome will show you, true style lies in
elegance, sophistication and refinement.
“Creativity is not an end in itself in the
world of fine jewellery. It is always necessary
to keep an ear tuned to the world, the dictates
of high fashion and changes in culture, and
do your best while respecting your own logic
of refined sophistication,” Protti reveals.
It’s a formula that has worked for Verdi
for over 40 years. Its creations continually
challenge existing notions of style through
designs that speak through eras. Its signature
creation, the Spring Bracelet, is still a favourite
in its exciting new forms for 2013. With
confidence in its Italian identity and a keen
eye on the world, Verdi Gioielli is made for
the woman who has her own point of view, a
true model of style.
Diamonds
FACETS
m works
etal
COCKTAIL RINGS
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
Curled gold makes a statement in floral-inspired rings
Cocktail rings, wildly popular in the 1940s and ’50s, signified a time for celebration, glamour and enjoyment.
Women would hold their champagne flutes aloft with a flash of sparkle on the third finger of their right hand.
While we’ve seen floral motifs on cocktail rings many times over, the architectural quality of these gold designs
provides a new form of expression. This season, let your fingers do the talking with curled, spiral and wavy
structures forming gracious petals adorned with diamonds, coloured gems and pearls.
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Rose gold ring with
diamonds, SOO KEE
JEWELLERY; Foulard
coloured gold rings
with diamond accents,
GILORO; Garden Flower
ring with 7.22ct spessartite
garnet and yellow and
white diamonds in 18k
yellow gold, CARATELL;
Henne ring in 18k pink
gold with 26.83ct pink
opal and diamonds,
ADLER; Flower ring in
rose gold and diamonds,
POH HENG; Vitta
ring in 18k gold with
golden South Sea pearl,
JEWELMER
44
Baselworld 2013 / Hall 2.2 / Booth H45
I TA LY
Anastasia Collection
Custom made design available upon request
Exclusive Dealer for Malaysia Poh Kong Jewellers, Kuala Lumpur
www.moraglione.com
FACETS
BREGUET
by Sandy Tan
Golden
Fascinating jewellery pays homage
to France’s historical garden
The Palace of Versailles in France still stands
as an architectural marvel that houses a long
history, with famed gardens that cover some 800
hectares of land. Its L’Orangerie greenhouse,
known for its exotic trees and plants, form an
inspirational blueprint to Breguet’s L’Orangerie
jewellery collection. The bright-hued pieces feature
spessartine garnets, pink tourmalines, spinel,
rubies, yellow beryl and diamonds.
The collection presents a necklace, pendant,
ring, a pair of earrings and a bracelet — each
featuring radiating flower motifs. The necklace
is set with 18k white and yellow gold pavé
diamonds, pavé rubies and pink tourmalines,
all laced into a floral centrepiece.
The 18k yellow ring features two flowers
with a central 1.15-carat Burmese ruby,
which gives a dazzling contrast to its
cluster of spinel. The bold designs are
further enhanced by the soft glow
of white and yellow gold.
Precious stones are highlighted by
VEHMEXMRKÂS[IVQSXMJWMRIEGLTMIGI
46
Dolce Rosa Collection
TIME
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Audemars Piguet’s
Tradition Tourbillon
Minute Repeater has
a triple complication,
with a minute
repeater, tourbillon
and chronograph. A
47mm titanium case
houses the handwound
calibre 2874; Piaget’s
latest complication in
its ultra-thin series, the
Emperador Coussin
Minute Repeater sets a
record for the thinnest
automatic minute
MINUTE RE
REPEATERS
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
Minute repeaters are back in
glittering fashion
repeater at 9.4mm.
The case is crafted
in pink gold, and the
dial comes in sapphire
glass, revealing the
movement within; The
MasterGraff Diamond
Minute Repeater comes
in a white or rose gold
case fully paved with
330 baguette diamonds
totalling more than 30
carats, GRAFF; Louis
Vuitton’s Tambour
Minute Repeater comes
in an 18k white gold
case, with the bezel set
with black baguette
diamonds
Striking watches were
created in the 17th century
to allow people at court to
discreetly check the time in their
pocket during trials and councils
without offending the monarch.
Later on, a bell, usually attached to
the inner back cover of the watch, was
introduced for the hammer to strike,
and the first chiming watches were
born. The bells were then replaced by a
set of coiled wire gongs to reduce space.
Today, minute repeaters chime three
different sounds: the hours signalled by a low
tone, the quarter-hours by a sequence of two
tones, and the minutes by a high tone. The
repeater function is among the most complex
of complications, and a selection that
combines precision mechanical engineering
with the glitter of precious stones and metal
make this selection of minute repeaters a
pleasure to both sight and sound.
The minute repeater
function is among
the most complex of
complications
48
)HZLS^VYSK7H]PSSPVUZ[HUK+
HU[VUPUPP[
DESIGN
JENNIFER TRASK
by Charmaine Tai
written
in bone
50
OPPOSITE PAGE
The Garland neckpiece
uses pre-ban ivory,
antler and diamond
(Image courtesy of
Dmitri Belyi)
THIS PAGE, FROM
LEFT
Tulipa in antler and
bone; Germinate
necklace in mule deer
antlers, cow and ox
bones, nutria teeth and
pigeon skulls
An avant-garde jewellery artist draws
inspiration from the most unusual sources
m
ost jewellery designers
create pieces with an
actual wearer in mind.
Jennifer Trask, though, takes the opposite
approach, designing pieces that many
women couldn’t even imagine wearing.
The artist has made a name for herself by
fashioning large neck pieces and brooches
from animal bones, antlers, teeth, pre-ban
ivory — even pigeon skulls.
As a diamond transforms to a sparkling
gem from a rough pebble, Trask seamlessly
pieces together bone fragments and turns
them into inspired creations. The result is
thought-provoking jewellery brought to life
through unconventional techniques and
materials others pass off as uninspiring.
Trask’s works are drawn from Mother
Nature, her love of biology echoing in her
delicate bone carvings. Her pieces do more
than just accentuate a woman’s beauty
— they reflect strength and personality.
She says: “The people who wear my
work are confident, and they appreciate
beauty beyond the classical definition.”
Considering herself an artist instead of a
jewellery designer, she first took a metalsmithing course as an elective subject
when she was 18. “The precise yet handson nature of working in metal appealed to
me,” she says.
Despite starting out using silver, mineral
crystals, feathers and pearls, she now
incorporates materials that were largely
unseen in the jewellery world. One of
her first works, Lunaria, designed in 2005,
saw her weaving shed python skin and
dragonfly wings with moonstones and
citrines. The piece was later showcased in
the Racine Art Museum.
Her jewellery does more
than accentuate a woman’s beauty
´MXVIÂIGXWWXVIRKXLERHTIVWSREPMX]
51
DESIGN
CLOCKWISE, FROM
TOP
Jennifer Trask makes
all jewellery by hand in
her studio in Hudson
Valley; The Cluster 1
brooch is made of bone
fragments, teeth, and
silver, complemented by
diamonds; The Skeleton
Keys are made of bone,
cast iron, silk and pearls
Trask soon looked to her box of
ephemera for inspiration. Among its
contents were bones that were either given
by friends or found in the woods.
She initially made small brooches
from snake vertebrae and deer bones
and progressed to bigger pieces. As Trask
continued finding her voice in her art,
she began sourcing a variety of bones
from hunters, but kept an ethical
cal promise
to never use those from an endangered
angered
species.
Her most recent collection, Vestige:
tige:
Written in Bone shows a bolder side
de of
Trask — surreal, strong, with an edge.
e. Her
Acanthus neckpiece is carved from antlers,
tlers,
boar’s tusks and wood, and patterned with
18k gold wire and 23k gold leaves. Her
pieces are meant to come into close contact
act
with the wearer’s bones, mirroring the
vulnerability of life and death.
Trask’s collections can take years to
complete, as proven by Vestige: Written
in Bone, which has been in progress
since 2011. “A necklace can take months
to create,“ she explains, “as the materials
dictate some of the possibilities.” She sums
up her design process with a quote from
Vincent Van Gogh: “It is looking at things
for a long time that ripens you and gives
you a deeper understanding.”
Despite her growing popularity, she
remains rooted, producing works in a quiet
studio in Hudson Valley. Her collections
have been featured in various museums,
even permanently in the Smithsonian
American Art Museum’s Renwick Gallery.
Though she regularly holds exhibitions
in the US, she has also ventured to other
cities, including London, Munich, Basel
and Seoul.
8LSYKLXTVSZSOMRKNI[IPPIV]FVSYKLXXS
PMJIXLVSYKLYRGSRZIRXMSREPXIGLRMUYIWERH
QEXIVMEPWSXLIVWTEWWSJJEWYRMRWTMVMRK
52
robertocoin.com
Palline Collection
FACETS
SERPENT JEWELLERY
by Sandy Tan
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Coiled Serpent bangle
and ring in yellow gold
with diamonds; Serpent
Boheme bangle in yellow gold 750 with 64
round diamonds totalling 2.58 carats, all from
Boucheron
The
Trace
An aauspicious motif leaves
a sophisticated
sop
mark
54
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Shaune Leanne’s
serpent necklace in 18k
yellow gold; Matthew
Campbell Laurenza’s
rattlesnake brooch in
sterling silver, gold plating and red-orange sapphires; Chopard’s L.U.C
XP Urushi Snake watch
in 18k rose gold with 29
jewels and 65-hour power reserve; Boucheron’s
Serpent Boheme large
ring in yellow gold and
pave diamonds
he Chinese Zodiac has
always been a source of
inspiration for jewelleryy
designers. This year is
guided by the Water Snake, the sixth of 12
animal signs. The serpent represents several
qualities: wisdom, intuition, resilience,
creativity and an adventurous spirit.
Enigmatic and unique jewellery designs that
are being introduced this year are informed
by the silhouette, colour and skin texture of
the serpent. Although it is the year of the
black snake, high jewellery brands are not
deterred from going for gold.
Several high jewellery brands have only
begun to use the serpent motifs in their
pieces but for some others, the serpent has
long been a muse. Boucheron has interpreted
the serpent motif in various ways since 1858.
Its Serpent Bohème collection features
coiled yellow and white gold pieces ending in
pear-shaped heads, with sculpted scales and
studded with diamonds.
Chopard’s L.U.C Urushi Snake ultra-thin
timepiece features a unique decorative dial,
handpainted with a coiling snake motif and
garden of cherry blossoms to symbolise
good luck. A traditional Maki-e lacquering
technique is used, using treated sap derived
from Urushi, a Japanese varnish tree. The
lacquer is then sprinkled with gold powder
coating, applied by using bamboo tubes and
fine brushes. The watch features an L.U.C
Calibre 96.17-L movement, housed in an 18k
rose gold case.
The 18k yellow gold serpent necklace
by Shaun Leane features a fluid silhouette,
accented by brilliant diamonds. Its
Enigmatic and
unique jewellery
designs introduced
this year are
informed by the
silhouette, colour
and skin texture of
the serpent
T
craftsmanship lends itself to the
company’s heritage in goldsmithing.
The piece is an example of Leane’s
work that has been inspired by Alexander
McQueen, whom he has worked closely
with on special jewellery collections.
Known for his enamel jewellery designs,
Matthew Campbell Laurenza’s gold collection
includes a rattlesnake brooch, which differs
slightly from the designer’s usual eclectic,
whimsical and colourful designs. It is made
in sterling silver with gold plating and redorange sapphires.
55
FACETS
HANNAH MARTIN
by Charmaine Tai
rbiting the
Night Sky
A look into Hannah Martin’s
new collection
Jewellery is meant to make its wearer unique and
desirable, a task that sculptural jeweller Hannah Martin
takes to heart. The London-based designer works on
each piece using hand-crafting techniques only.
Her latest project, Solaris, evolved from her previous
collection Story V — The Man Who Knows Everything.
Dedicated to a man beyond time, the series pushes
aesthetic limits by fusing ancient and modern art. While
the first collection focused on triangles and a bright
palette, the second blends the darkness of the period of
Russian Art Deco with the period of Enlightenment.
Martin harmonises architecture with gems, where
intensely coloured precious stones such as blue
sapphires and onyx are combined to produce a
hallucinogenic effect. Most of the pieces are rounded
and dark, a stark contrast to the silver and gold razoredged jewellery in her first collection, It’s Only Rock ‘N’
Roll.
The Orbit Enlightenment Ring is a statement piece
made up of two black rhodium rings studded with
sapphires and amethyst, orbiting a contrasted white
gold circle. The Onyx Orbit Pendant is a symbol of the
endless notion of time. It has a talismanic appeal
with sapphires and emeralds circling a black
rhodium sphere.
The winning piece though, is the Solaris
Enamel Signet Pavé. Using black enamel,
Martin creates a subtle contrast by paving
the ring with sapphires and black rhodium,
conjuring the dark powers of alchemy.
The Onyx Orbit Pendant
symbolises the endless notion of time
56
CLOCKWISE, FROM
TOP
The Onyx Orbit Pendant
with emeralds, sapphires
and black rhodium;
Solaris Enamel Signet
Pavé 18k white gold ring
with sapphires; Onyx
& Emerald Orbit Stud
earrings with 0.21 carats
of emeralds; Orbit
Enlightenment Ring with
dark blue sapphires,
purple amethyst and
white diamonds
Hong Kong ‐ Shanghai ‐ New York
by appointment only: Tel: +852 2191 9282 ‐ [email protected]
www.scarselli-asia.com
FACETS
JJEWELS MILANO
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
Romantic
Asymmetry
Coloured stones make their
mark in one-of-a-kind jewellery
Since its launch in 2008, JJewels Milano has had one goal: to
create pieces of jewellery with long-lasting value. Inspired by
nature and art, its jewels come in a harmonious combination of
motifs and colours. Precious stones like lavender jade, quartz and
chalecedony are selected for their size and unusual shape, cut to
highlight their colour, and matched with round-cut diamonds
and sapphires in varying weights and complementary hues.
The result is a balanced asymmetry that, despite the size of the
focal stone, echoes with grace and lightness. And due to the
irregularity of the cuts, a design can never
ever be repeated, making
each piece truly unique.
FROM TOP TO
BOTTOM
Pavone necklace and
earrings; drop earrings
from the Barocco
collection; earrings
from the Arcobaleno
collection; Barocco ring;
Pavone ring; Arcobaleno
rose gold ring with
lavender jade, sapphires
and diamonds
58
Inspired by nature and art,
jewels come in a harmonious
combination of motifs and colours
INTERVIEW
JACK DU ROSE
by Melissa Pearce
The
7etallurgist
A conversation with a most unusual designer
60
s
tarting out as a model
maker for iconic British
jewellers like Shaun
Leane and Stephen
Webster was Jack du
Rose’s ‘trial by fire’ apprenticeship. It would
be hard to secure a more fortuitous entry into
the business, but on top of it all, Jack du Rose
(his real name) was invited at age 24 to be part
of the team behind one of contemporary art’s
more peculiar pieces of late — Damien Hirst’s
much-hyped diamond-encrusted skull.
Jack du Rose’s part in the project was to
create the master model for the skull and to
establish how many 3.5-mm diamonds were
needed to pavé-set it. This, it turned out,
was to be 8,601 stones with a total weight
of 1,106.18 carats. When a goldsmith friend
approached du Rose about the project, he
was given no idea that the result of his efforts
would one day be on display at the Tate
Modern. At the time, he didn’t even know
who was behind the concept.
Five years on, it’s his own museumquality pieces that are taking centre stage
at artist Sam Taylor-Wood’s studio in
Clerkenwell, East London. It is quite a feat to
adequately describe his works — they speak
for themselves with resolute and rarefied
brilliance and complexity. The now 31-yearold Londoner speaks to Solitaire:
OPPOSITE
Poison Moth brooch
in white gold with pink
diamond orchids
THIS PAGE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Jack du Rose, who
has worked with many
designers, cuts his own
signature; Golden Lion
cuff with champagne
and white diamonds,
and caramel sapphire;
The Key pendant in
rose gold and pavé
white diamonds
WHO ARE SOME OF YOUR
FAVOURITE ARTISTS?
My favourite artists are sculptors and I spend
huge amounts of time sculpting my pieces,
which just so happen to be smothered in the
world’s most exquisite gemstones and can
be worn! One of my favourite artists, from a
jewellery perspective, is René Lalique. His
work was really my greatest inspiration to
want to create my own. I am also a great
admirer of Damien Hirst for his expertise
in product development and marketing
as an art form. I do not mean that
as a backhanded complement; I
genuinely think his work is absolutely
masterful in those respects. As Andy
Warhol said: “Good business is the best
art.” But if I could have a piece by any artist
it would be Glenn Brown. I never fail to be
blown away by his work; I find it aesthetically
extraordinary and technically masterful.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE
MATERIALS TO WORK WITH?
Gold and diamonds are a joy to work with,
figuratively and literally. I gravitate towards
the most exotic and exceptional of gemstones
— whether it be a very special sapphire
or vividly coloured pink diamonds, each
has its own character. That is the mark of a
really special stone, it is not like any other
inanimate lump of matter — it almost feels as
though it has something more to it, not quite
a consciousness — that would be patently
absurd, but something like a soul, a sort of
secret life of its own.
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY ABOUT GOLD
AS A MATERIAL?
The permanence of gold is an enormously
attractive quality — it is virtually immune
to decay. I think making exceptional things
in gold is a hankering after immortality. I
know now that even if I never make another
thing in my life, I have made eight very
extraordinary pieces of precious
art which in all likelihood
will exist for thousands
of years — long after
all the natural
resources which
constitute
them are
gone.
61
INTERVIEW
“Gold and
diamonds are a
joy to work with,
ÁKYVEXMZIP]ERH
literally”
ARE THERE ANY JEWELLERS
OR JEWELLERY DESIGNERS
YOU ADMIRE?
I presume you mean living
jewellers. Laurence Graff and Victoire
de Castellane. Graff, for his vision
and insight that have taken him from a
humble start to one of the biggest players
in the world’s jewellery market. Victoire de
Castellane is one of the very few truly creative
and fearless visionaries in an industry that I
think fosters, encourages and even champions
the most tawdry mediocrity in a most
embarrassing way.
WHAT HAS BEEN THE MOST
CHALLENGING PIECE YOU HAVE
PRODUCED THUS FAR?
My blue-ringed octopus bracelet was the most
difficult piece I have ever made by a long
way. I had to redesign it two or three times,
resculpt it from scratch perhaps four or five
times and amend, adjust and refine endlessly
for months in order to make it just so. It was
extremely difficult to make it look as effortless
and as balanced as it does and be as wearable
as it is. It is set with pavé stones everywhere,
inside and out — every twist and turn of
every tentacle, whether you can see it or not,
is set with stones and the catch is totally
hidden. You need to be taught how to open it,
otherwise it is an almost unfathomable puzzle.
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
The Blue Ringed
Octopus brooch in
yellow gold features
blue skull motif with
blue sapphires, black
opal, and champagne
and white diamonds;
The Vipers brooch
features serpent motifs
with ruby eyes, and
cherry blossoms with
pink diamonds; The
Dart Frog ring features
mandarin garnet, lagoon
tourmaline, emerald
with white-diamond
encrusted vines
62
YOUR FIRST COLLECTION TOOK YOU
OVER THE WORLD MANY TIMES IN
SEARCH OF THE RIGHT GEMSTONES
AND ARTISANS. CAN YOU SHARE THE
STORY OF A PARTICULAR HUNT?
The most challenging hunt was for a stone
that is easily overlooked − the blue-green
tourmalines in the Poison Dart Frog ring. I
had decided upon the colour combination
using this very specific shade of blue-green
and then had to try to find it. Months and
months of searching went by and just at
the point where I was about to give up and
change the whole colour palette, I found the
perfect colour tourmaline from a German
guy whilst in Hong Kong, who had a stock of
appropriate rough in Bangkok. I then had to
have each and every one of the thousand plus
stones in that material specially cut.
WHAT IS SOMETHING THAT PEOPLE
MAY BE SURPRISED TO LEARN
ABOUT YOU?
How about that I got a D in GCSE art and
also a D in GSCE Design when I was 16
because I was very rebellious and refused to
do the written component of the course. My
teachers wouldn’t let me continue to do art
or design at A-level. Instead I did Economics
and German and was terrible at both. I was so
disillusioned that I completely stopped doing
anything artistic other than creative writing.
It wasn’t until after university that I started
again.
It never fails to amuse me to think that
I was banned from doing art at school and
went on to contribute to creating one of the
most famous pieces of art in the world just a
few years later.
INTERVIEW
AMEE PHILIPS
by Lisa
Lisa-Ann Lee
Bold and dramatic, Amee Philips’ pieces
showcase the designer’s fiery creative energy
and boundless spirit
64
h
OPPOSITE
Soaring Phoenix earrings
set in 18k white and
yellow gold, with 6.48cts
of rubies and 1.26cts
of diamonds; Empress
Phoenix necklace in 18k
white gold, rubelites, a
ruby and diamonds; Imperial Phoenix pendant
in 18k white gold, a ruby
at 0.02cts, diamonds
and rubelites
THIS PAGE, ABOVE
Amee Philips is a Malaysian designer whose
creations are popular
in Asia, the US and
Europe; Soaring Phoenix
necklace set in 18k white
gold, yellow sapphires,
rubies and diamonds
er jewellery
has been worn
by celebrities
such as Kristie
Alley, and
featured in Rolls Royce’s 150th anniversary
commemorative book. How does an
interpreter with no previous knowledge of
gemstones or connections to the industry
become an internationally fêted jewellery
designer with a patented invention to her
name?
Amee Philips, the woman behind the
eponymous Malaysia-based jewellery brand
known for its statement phoenix pieces, likes
to say that her career started by accident
when she first bought some tumble stones
for her mother. But that’s just one part of the
story. For this glamourous mother of four,
her remarkable rise to fame has also been a
case of grit and derring-do. “I’m a very daring
person,” says Philips matter-of-factly. “That’s
how I was able to leave for Germany on my
own after getting my passport when I was
21.” Indeed it was this confidence that led
her to venture into jewellery design during
the Asian economic crisis of the ’90s. A few
years into the business, she would invent the
V-clip — a jewellery connector that allows
the wearer to mix and match pendants —
that is currently patented around the world.
In 2011, an encounter with New Yorkbased fashion designer Zang Toi, whom
she met in Penang while unveiling her
Nyonya Baba collection, would lead to her
biggest break yet. “We always tell people it
was ‘love at first sight’ because he instantly
liked my energy,” she says with a laugh. This
meeting led to a collaboration between
Philips and Toi, in time for the fashion
designer’s Spring 2012 runway show
at New York’s Fashion Week. The
collection, called Arabian Nights, was
a hit, and propelled Philips’ brand
into the spotlight, turning it into an
international name overnight.
Currently with a presence in New York
and London, Philips also has her sights
on China and is planning a big launch
in Beijing soon. Solitaire catches up
with her to find out more about her
distinct style.
WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO COME UP
WITH THE V-CLIP?
I’m always evolving and I like to do things
that other people can’t and don’t usually do.
When I started wearing jewellery, I’d always
wonder: “Why can I only wear a pendant
in a particular way? Why can’t I wear it with
my pearl string or choker?” With the V-clip, I
empower women to wear their jewellery the
way they want. They can design their own
jewellery at home with the clip and a few of
our add-ons. During a show in London, I
met a jeweller whose family had been in the
business for 150 years and he told me: “This
is amazing. Why didn’t we come up with the
idea before?” It was very encouraging.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST
COLLECTION FOR ZANG TOI.
This February’s show has a Russian theme
and the designs are inspired by the imperial
crown and Fabergé eggs. The designs for
Zang Toi are very big and bold and will
involve 20 kilograms of gold.
WHAT ARE YOUR SOURCES OF
INSPIRATION?
I usually get my inspiration when I’m clearing
my gemstones. I’ll put them on the table, look
at their colours, think of how to fit them in a
necklace or ring and breathe life into them.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR UPCOMING
COLLECTIONS.
In the middle of March, I’ll be launching
the Phoenix collection. If Cartier has its
leopard, Amee Philips has the phoenix.
People like them because they represent
power, immortality, good luck and prosperity.
Since they’re such colourful creatures, it gives
us the opportunity to use a lot of coloured
gemstones as well.
DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGN STYLE.
There’s art to my designs. Every piece of
jewellery has a story. A choker, for example,
is not just something you wear around your
neck. It has to be like a Picasso — even if
you don’t wear it, you can enjoy [looking at]
it. In fact, a few of my customers actually
buy my pieces and frame them to put on
their walls.
65
FACETS
NARDI
by Charmaine Tai
66
G
olden
harmers
C
Venetian brooches offer a
brilliant blast from the past
F
OPPOSITE
The late actress and
fashion icon Grace Kelly
wore one of Nardi’s
moretti
THIS PAGE, FROM
TOP
Moretto Paola comes in
two versions, one with
rubies and sapphires,
and the other with pink
sapphires
or some, owning a piece of jewellery
with a piece of history etched into
it makes an important addition to
their jewellery collection. Guilo Nardi
knew this when he founded Nardi in
1931. He carved a name for himself
by creating Blackamoor (or moretti) brooches, figurines that
depict Africans, usually wearing a turban and a chest piece, and
covered in rich stones. The faces are carved in ebony or tortoise
shells, while the clothing come with gemstone embellishments
and are covered in gold.
Blackamoors are often traced back to 18th century
Venice, because of goldsmithing techniques that
were typical for that period. The jewels are also said
to encapsulate the spirit and classical image of
Shakespeare’s Othello.
The moretti have been worn by the likes of Ernest
Hemingway, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. Each
moretto is unique, portraying a different sense of
style, true to the nature of Venice being a melting pot
of cultures. Nardi’s The View of Venice reveals the city’s
signature landmarks while Moretto Paola was specially
created for the Queen of Belgium.
Moretto Albero della Vita
is made from 18k gold
and set with diamonds
67
TIME
SECRET WATCHES
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
hideaway
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Harry Winton’s Rosebud
secret watch; Piaget’s
Limelight Garden Party
watch; Cartier’s Parrot
watch and ring and
Montre Tortue secrète
de Cartier from the
Les Heures Fabuleuses
collection
Gems
Secret watches conceal time with
jewelled virtuosity
The best secrets are truly those that are impossible to keep, and what better way
to draw attention to your wrists than to wear a sparkling conversation piece that
combines fine watchmaking and high jewellery? Secret watches are true examples
of versatility and function, and this year it’s all about nature. Cartier presents the
Montre Tortue secrète de Cartier watch, with a case in rhodium-plated white gold set
with morganite and brilliant-cut diamonds. A swivel of the tortoise’s shell reveals a
translucent lacquered and silvered flinqué dial. Piaget’s secret watches within the
Limelight Garden Party series feature a floral motif on white mother-of-pearl dials,
with brilliant- and marquise-cut diamonds set in 18k white gold. Harry Winston’s
Rosebud, designed in the shape of a rose, can be converted into a pendant, or a brooch
and is set with baguette, pear-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and the
removable cover. And what if it was a ring that could secretly tell the time? Cartier’s
Parrot watch and ring comes in rhodium-plated white gold set with diamonds, a
mother-of-pearl beak and emerald eyes. Almost imperceptible under the bird’s
feathered, is a watch face with hours and minutes.
68
FACETS
PINK & GOLD
by Lynnette Lee
Fall head over heels
with jewels in the
colour of young love
The allure of pink can be summed up in a
sentence: a clear, flawless diamond is great — not
to mention valuable, but how much lovelier life
would be with a rose-tinted one? Pink is the
colour of peace, beauty and young love, and its
variety of shades means there’s something to
flatter every skin tone.
Better-known gems like pink sapphires,
pink tourmalines and ultra-desirable pink
diamonds occur in every imaginable shade, from
orangey-pink to purplish-pink, while others like
morganite, kunzite and rose quartz are typically
a soft, light pink. As a rule of thumb, the more
intense the colour, the more valuable it is. To
enhance their colour, pink gems are often set in
warmer shades of gold such as yellow, rose or red,
giving the impression of warmth and depth.
Smelling
the
70
Roses
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Rose ring in gold with
pink sapphires and diamonds, CINDY CHAO;
Mosaique Delilah necklace with a 26.89ct pink
pear-shaped morganite
in pink and white gold
with diamonds and
coloured sapphires,
BOUCHERON; Dior
Joaillerie earrings in
18k pink gold with diamonds; and pink quartz,
DIOR; chameleon
brooch in pink gold with
coloured sapphires, and
diamonds, BOUCHERON; Rhodes coloured
sapphire ring in pink
gold, NOVARESE &
SANNAZZARO
DESIGN
MUNNU KASLIWAL
by Lynnette Lee
The jewellery giant you may
never have heard of
aipur
Style
72
WISE FROM LEFT
Mughal contemporary
earrings in 22k gold
set with iolites; ruby
and diamond leaf
and branch necklace;
Mughal contemporary
choker in gold with
amethysts
THIS PAGE, FROM
LEFT
Navratna turtle brooch
with multicoloured
gemstones, pearls and
diamonds; emerald
bead, pearl and diamond neckace in yellow
gold; Munnu Kasliwal’s
jewellery was popular
among the likes of late
Princess Diana and
actress Nicole Kidman
Born in Jaipur to a family of court
jewellers to Maharajahs, Munnu Kasliwal
grew up around opulence
ith a talent, catalogue and
pedigree that rivals even
the bigger names in the
jewellery world, Munnu
Kasliwal was an icon in his native India, and
halfway through his rise to international
laurels when tragedy stuck. In 2011, he was
diagnosed with terminal brain cancer. News
of his death last August set loose tremors
amongst his illustrious clientèle of royals,
politicians and stars all over the world. He was
only 54.
Born in Jaipur to a family of court jewellers
to Maharajahs, Kasliwal grew up around
opulence. Despite having no formal training,
he developed an amazing aesthetic sense and
took to jewels instinctively. “You know they say
it takes many generations to build a business,
and only one to take it down? He took it to a
completely different level, in a nicer way,” says
his son, Siddharth.
Gem Palace, the family business, became
a word-of-mouth success among the likes of
Princess Diana, Nicole Kidman and Gwyneth
Paltrow. In 2001, Kasliwal introduced his
family’s jewellery business to the world by
opening his first store outside India in Paris.
It caught the eye of a curator at New York’s
Metropolitan Museum of Art, who invited
Kasliwal to create a Mughal-inspired jewellery
W
collection for the museum’s gift shop
during a Mughal exhibition. The museum
commissioned just 30 to 40 pieces worth
a maximum of USD10,000 each. Instead,
Kasliwal produced 300 pieces ranging from
USD5,000 to USD380,000, combining
traditional Mughal designs with semiprecious stones, a concept that was almost
taboo in those times.
Launched in October 2011, the collection
was a runaway success and became an
unforeseen blessing for the museum which
struggled in the aftermath of September 11.
After the exhibition, the museum offered
Gem Palace a permanent exhibit. It was the
first time a jeweller from Asia was displayed
at The Met, and the only jeweller to be
permanently on show. Soon after, Barney’s
New York came knocking on their door. The
rest is now jewellery history.
As successor, Siddharth is keeping his
father’s legacy alive with an upcoming
international exhibition of his best works,
including those that have already been sold.
To Kasliwal, the greatest sin against such
beautiful objects was to keep them locked
away in a safe, never to be shared. Siddharth
says: “Somebody once said it’s not important
to live a long life, but a grand life, and he
clearly did that.”
SPELL OF SPINEL
Munnu Kasliwal had a talent for predicting design
trends. One of his most stunning pieces is a necklace
set with an old-mine diamond and a spinel weighing
264 carats on a simple velvet cord. His son Siddharth
recalls: “My father always told me that spinels were
going to become very popular so he started collecting them at a very young age. In the early ’90s they
were worth nothing, and now they cost a fortune.”
Looks like Munnu was right.
73
DESIGN
FOPE GIOIELLI
by Lynnette Lee
Unbreakable
onds
B
History and excellence are
interwoven in the DNA of Italy’s
maestro of mesh
74
OPPOSITE PAGE
The Flex’it Vendome
collection’s bracelets
come in 18k white gold
with white and black
diamonds
THIS PAGE (L-R)
Flex’it necklace in 18k
white gold with white
diamonds; Flex’it rings
in 18k yellow, rose or
white gold options
with white or black
diamonds; Flex’it
bracelets in 18k yellow,
rose or white gold with
round pavé diamonds;
limited-edition 18k rose
gold ring with vivid
pink sapphires
F
ortune favours the bold.
For Umberto Cazzola, a humble
Italian goldsmith, the road to success
began in the small town of Vicenza, where
he set up his first goldsmith factory in 1929.
Little did he know that several generations
on, the modest business would become one
of the most sophisticated names in Italian
jewellery, located in the very heart of the
country’s jewellery trade.
When Cazzola’s grandson became
president of the company, Fope created
its international hallmark. In 1980, the
company unveiled the Novecento mesh, a
patented weave made entirely of 18k gold.
Fine, flexible yet remarkably durable, it is
a stretchable band that adjusts itself to the
body, eliminating the need for rigid clasps.
Heralded as a feat of jewellery engineering,
the innovation shot the brand to new heights
among insiders and connoisseurs. Since then,
the Novecento mesh has become synonymous
with Fope. Bracelets are the stars of each
collection, best showcasing the company’s
ingenious technology. Instead of a clasp, gold
coils and links stretch then spring back into
place, ensuring a snug and secure fit.
Fope continues to impress with its
artistic instincts. The company’s latest pieces
celebrate the famous weave in new designs
and precious metals. The Flex’it Vendôme
series adds a sleeker, flatter dimension to the
classic design, available in white, red or yellow
gold and enhanced by rounded square motifs
in white or black diamond pavé. Fope has also
created mesh with Silverfope, an innovative
new alloy of silver and palladium that provides
the same flexibility and quality but is less
expensive than gold, presented in the Air
collection.
The Novecento mesh has become
synonymous with Fope
75
FACETS
THIS PAGE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Scorpio clip in white
gold set with 12.93-kt
black opal, diamonds
and multi-coloured
sapphires, VAN
CLEEF & ARPELS;
necklace with platinum
lightning ridge opal,
emerald bead and
diamonds, OSCAR
HAYMAN; brooch in
white gold with black
rhodium, tsavorite,
white diamonds and
sapphire, ALESSIO
BOCHI; fire opal and
diamonds earrings,
TIFFANY & CO.;ring
in 18k white rhodium
gold, diamonds, tourmaline and tanzanite,
set with opal, CHAUMET
OPPOSITE
Dentelle Opalle
D’Orient bracelet with
Australian black opal,
diamonds, rubies, spessartite and tsavorite
garnets, DIOR
Black opals with a complete colour
spectrum and in blue-green hues are rare
76
OPAL JEWELLERY
Rock
by Sandy Tan
Beauty reflected in a million-year-old gemstone
Opal, known for its unique
colour gradient and intrinsic
ability to diffract light, can make
a winning statement. Bigger, bolder
gemstones have become wardrobe
essentials, especially with the season’s solid
and colour-block ensembles.
In the Middle Ages, opals were believed to bring
luck. The largest cradles of the stone are found in South
Australia, Mexico and Africa, and the size and internal
structure determine its quality. Opals ranging from black to
pink are prominent in the latest high-jewellery designs, usually
complemented by diamonds and coloured stones.
Chaumet’s 12 Vendôme collection features 12 sets of
sophisticated tiaras, rings and necklaces, reinterpreted from
the maison’s vintage pieces, a number of which have an opal
as a focal point. A cabochon-cut white opal from Ethiopia sits
on an 18k white rhodium gold ring topped with tourmalines,
tanzanites and diamonds.
Australia’s Alessio Boschi, former head designer of
Autore, won at the recent IU Awards for jewellery design with
his Ivy Set. The brooch, in white gold set with black rhodium
featuring tsavorite, white diamond, and sapphire features a leafshaped blue-green Australian opal.
Dior’s new high jewellery Dear
Dior collection includes one-off
rings, earrings and bracelets, featuring
Parisian gold and jewel craftsmanship.
The Dentelle Opalle D’Orient bracelet shows
off an Australian black opal surrounded by a
ÂSVEPFIHSJHMEQSRHWVYFMIWWTIWWEVXMXIERH
tsavorite garnets.
Van Cleef & Arpels has created celestial masterpieces
for its Palais de la Chance’s Zodiac collection. The Scorpio
clip features a 12.93-carat black opal with an anatomy of
diamonds, multi-coloured sapphires and spinel set in
white gold.
Black opals with a complete colour spectrum and
in blue-green hues are rare. American jeweller Oscar
Heyman’s award-winning, handcrafted necklace features
four black opals, a cabochon emerald, 83 emerald beads and
335 round diamonds.
Celebrity jeweller Lorraine Schwartz’s discerning eye
for bold and unique stones translates into her black opal
with natural pink diamonds and paraiba drop earrings.
Supermodel Heidi Klum donned the glamorous pair at the
2012 Emmy Awards.
77
FACETS
ABOVE
The Anastasia collection
features teardrop
silhouettes in white and
brown diamonds and
pink quartz set in pink
gold
BELOW
Ingrid pink and white
gold flexible bracelet
with white diamonds
m
MORAGLIONE
by Sandy Tan
Ties
A passionate jeweller celebrates
its heritage
oraglione’s story began 90 years ago
in Valenza, Italy’s iconic centre of fine
jewellery making. The company had
endured World War II, the post-war era and overcame economic
ups and downs. By the 1980s, it had expanded its market reach
to the Middle East and Asia. The jeweller revisits its historical
archives in contemporary collections designed by Fabio
Amelotti, featuring pieces that highlight the quality of precious
and semi-precious gemstones. Amelotti also emphasises the use
of colour to complement smooth and feminine lines.
Moraglione’s current collections pay tribute to royalty —
inspired by Princess Grace of Monaco, the classic and romantic
Grace collection features pieces set with Mediterranean
blue sapphires, diamonds and semi-precious stones. The
Isabella collection, named after Queen Isabella of Spain, uses
moonstones, ranging from shades of grey to pink, plus rubies
that depict the Spanish landscape. Named after Princess
Anastasia of Russia, the Anastasia collection uses pink gold,
white and brown diamonds, a well as doublet stones (natural
quartz of various shades, layered with mother of pearl) that paint
a frosty effect reminiscent of Russia’s winters.
Round and oval precious stones adorn the popular Sofia
collection, named after Queen Sofia of Spain. The colourful
pieces are fit for casual occasions, formal dinners or parties.
Another classic reinvention is the Margherita collection, named
after the 19th century Italian Queen of Savoy, which pieces
feature use of white, brown and black diamonds with sapphires,
emeralds and rubies — designed in the shape of a daisy.
Its celebratory 1922 range consists of necklaces, bracelets,
rings and earrings tied in a signature ribbon design, and set
in white gold with white diamonds, as well as black rhodium
coating. Versions with rose gold and brown diamonds are also
available.
Amelotti emphasises the
use of colour to complement
smooth and feminine lines
78
TIME
Gilded
Hours
GOLD WATCHES
by Charlene Co
Gold endures as the premier material for keeping time
80
Y
ou just can’t go wrong with gold. Other precious metals emerge, but
gold is, and always will be, the metal of choice where extravagance
and lasting value are prime objectives.
Gold has been used as currency in great civilisations, and has
been romanticised in popular culture for eras. It holds much historical significance
— Etruscans created handmade crafts with threads of gold. Egyptians equated the
material with the sun, and reserved its use for their royalty, the Pharaohs. The Incas
called it “the sweat of the sun” while the Chinese thought of gold as the sun’s yang.
Beyond its historical value, gold is an alluring material with which many of the
world’s finest watches are crafted. And it’s not purely for rarity. Gold has the advantage
of keeping its colour and resisting oxidation. The softness of the metal also allows
it to be alloyed to other materials (hence its different colours) and be finished more
creatively. This year, the gilded trend continues in various forms — innovative finishes
on the case and dial, rediscovered ancient art, engraving, lacquering, and appliqués.
Bovet Amadeo Fleurier
Bovet’s Amadeo Fleurier 0 Tourbillon 7-Days pays a
fitting homage to the brand’s 190th anniversary.
Equipped with the patented Amadeo case, the
piece can be transformed into a miniature table
clock, a pocket watch or a reversible wristwatch
without the hassle of any tools. Its case can be
rendered in high polished 18k red or white gold,
and is fitted with an alligator skin strap and an
18k red or white gold ardillon buckle,
while its chain comes in 18k red or
white gold.
Panther Rotonde de Cartier
Cartier digs deep in history as it skilfully executes the millenniaold, highly regarded technique of granulation in its 42mm Panther
Rotonde de Cartier watch. The ancient art involves creating balls
out of threads of gold that are cut and heated, which are then
assembled and secured in a gold plate. The process, while strikingly
rudimentary, renders no less than a breath-taking, highly dramatic
relief that can make any Etruscan princess swoon.
81
TIME
Harry Winston’s
Midnight Moon
Phase
Harry Winston’s Midnight
Moon Phase watch is elegantly
fresh with its 18k rose gold
champagne sunray satinbrushed dial, highlighted with
an engraved tree décor filled with
contrasted tainted lacquer in rose
gold. As if that wasn’t pretty enough,
it is studded with what Harry Winston
knows best: diamonds. The piece is
encrusted with 95 brilliant-cut diamonds
totalling about 0.97 carats.
Franck Muller Gold
Croco Collection
If it is seamless integration you are looking for, Franck
Muller does admirable work with its Gold Croco watch. The
beauty of the piece is how its dial smoothly and flawlessly
extends into its alligator strap by virtue of its perfectly
sculpted curves and the milling on the dial and case that
creates “scales” identical to that of its crocodile strap.
Beyond its historical value, gold
is an alluring material with
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watches are crafted
Jacob & Co
Crystal Collection
de Grisogono Tino
de Grisogono gets into the rose gold fever with the Tino
watch, which hails from the brand’s successful range of
Instrumentino Watches. Its high polished 18k rose gold
case is matched with a salmon pink guilloche dial with rose
gold appliqué Arabic numerals and indices, while a black
diamond crown provides for a nice contrast. The piece is
fitted with a light pink galuchat strap and a polished 18k
rose gold folding buckle.
82
Jacob & Co makes an intriguing
and highly inventive addition
to its Crystal Collection
with the World is Yours –
Five Time Zone watch.
The piece outlines
the map of the world
using Wesselton
brilliant-cut white
diamonds, encased
in a 44-mm,18k rose
gold case that has
been carefully carved
and polished by hand.
This collection is meant
to showcase the brand’s high
watchmaking capabilities, and
certainly, this watch delivers.
WWW.BASELWORLD.COM
FACETS
ROBERTO COIN
Talent
by Lynnette Lee
to
Spare
FROM TOP TO
BOTTOM
Necklace from the
Fifth Season collection
in electroform with
galvanic colour; Siberian
Tiger Limted Collection
bangle in white gold
with colourless and
black diamonds, pink
sapphires and enamel;
Dragon Limited
Collection bangle and
ring in white gold with
colourless diamonds,
emeralds and enamel
stackable rings from the
Fifth Season collection
Celebrity jeweller Roberto Coin
covers the bases with one-offfable
a-kind creations and stackable
everyday gems
Thanks to his signature style — a blend of individuality, Italian
talian h
heritage
eritage
and craftsmanship — Roberto Coin has emerged as a grand
and nam
name
me in
contemporary jewellery, and a favourite in the world of fashion.
shion.
This year, the designer unveils the Unique collection, his ultim
ultimate
mate
expression of opulence and workmanship, with cobras rendered
ndered
d in
glittering blue sapphires and black diamonds. New limited
d editio
edition
on
masterpieces feature fully pavéd dragons and Siberian tigers.
gers.
For everyday wear, the Fifth Season collection continues
ues the
tradition of Italian chic with wearable bangles, rings and necklaces that
look great on their own or stacked in different colours.
In unique Roberto Coin tradition, each piece is set with
th a sma
small
all
ruby on the reverse. Hidden from sight and worn against the skin
skin,
n it
is a secret between the designer and the wearer, an intimate wish for
protection, joy and peace.
New limited edition masterpieces feature
fully pavéd dragons and Siberian tigers
84
DESIGN
TOM RUCKER
by Katrina Balmaceda
Using powerful lasers to create
most delicate jewels
86
om R
Rucker’s
k ’
unconventional jewellery
has been much publicised
in recent years. His
technique, which he calls GEO.2, involves
laser-welding pieces of platinum wire that
are 0.2-mm thin — and some works require
hundreds of thousands of these, such as his
Geo Geosphere necklace, which was made
using more than 700,000 laser joins.
Not content to sitting back, Rucker
recently completed another challenge he
had set for himself: a life-size bust of Nelson
Mandela made of platinum and Meissen
porcelain, which took one year and 1.9
million microscopic laser spots to create.
Rucker thinks this may be the start of a series
of platinum-wire sculptures of world icons,
but refrains from setting a deadline as yet,
knowing how much time the work requires.
Rucker continues to challenge himself
in design. He is focusing on using more 18k
gold in his jewellery — a material pleasing to
the eye, but extremely tricky for GEO.2. Gold
has higher heat conductivity than platinum,
which means it spreads energy more quickly
instead of concentrating it on a smaller area.
It thus requires multiple and more powerful
laser pulses.
After some trial and error, Rucker
developed a gold alloy that is less heatconductive, but with welding joins as strong
T
and durable as plati
platinum’s. “There are a lot
of points I had to bear in mind in coming up
with my own formulated alloy, such as health
and safety, strength and hardness — and
last but not least, a pleasing and rich yellow
colour,” he says.
Rucker likes to combine various metals
and precious stones in his pieces —
contrasting, for example, the sparkle of
platinum with the warmth of yellow gold. His
award-winning Geo Supernova uses polished
and matt-finished 18k gold, platinum 950
(specially formulated for use in GEO.2)
and more than three carats of natural fancy
gold-yellow and rare white diamonds. He
also reveals that he has been working on an
“extremely rare and difficult-to-process” metal
these past two years and may use it in his
jewellery designs in the future.
The lightness and strength of his creations
are inspired by architecture and aeronautics,
while his aesthetic eye looks to the solar
system and to nature for inspiration. His
designs also hint of his constant striving for
perfection — they are mostly round because,
he says, a circle is “a shape which simply
can’t be more perfect”. Rucker knows
his pieces do not attract mainstream
attention. Instead, they are “for
those individual and understated
people who share my passion for
perfectionism and originality.”
OPPOSITE PAGE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Geo Deimos necklace made with 61
natural fancy yellow
diamonds; Geo Infinity
necklace in 177 natural
fancy yellow diamonds
totalling 4.28cts;
Geo Halfmoon ring in
platinum 950 and gold
750; Geo Supernova
kinetic ring in rare
white diamonds and
natural fancy gold
diamonds totalling
3.02cts
THIS PAGE, FROM
TOP
Geo Shush kinetic
ring in platinum 950
and gold 750, with 86
natural fancy yellow
diamonds totalling
0.92cts; Geo Multisphere necklace in 190
rare white diamonds
totalling 3.19cts
(All images courtesy of
Hanover Saffron)
Rucker created a life-size bust of
Nelson Mandela made of platinum
and Meissen porcelain with 1.9 million
microscopic laser spots
87
FACETS
JEWELLERY BOXES
by Sandy Tan
Treasured
Beaux Arts Galleria
Two applied clusters of grapes
adorn Beaux Arts Galleria’s
antique jewellery box. The 24k
gold-plated rectangular box
features a hinged lid and blue
velveteen lining. The owners
of the box — Samir Fayez and
Awatifs Aoun, also founders
of Beaux Arts Galleria — first
acquired it at an estate sale in
Saudi Arabia in the 1970s.
Stylish cases for timeless jewels
Jewellery boxes, much like jewellery pieces themselves, are documents of
time — a husband’s gift to his wife to mark a wedding anniversary, or an
heirloom for a daughter, passed on through generations. Young girls love
to rummage through their mother’s jewellery box in secret, hoping to find
a piece to call their own one day. And designers today excel at creating
unique jewellery cases that will soon, too, become keepsakes.
Cartier
Cartier’s Panther and Jungle jewellery box features exquisite light
brown wooden marquetry with details in a golden finish that contrast
with black sycamore wood. On the inside are compartments for
rings, earrings and necklaces, covered in signature black Alcantara®.
88
M.S. Rau Antiques
This 1880 gilt-bronze jewellery box is crafted in the
shape of an ornate secretaire and has an ebonised base.
The case, believed to be French in origin, is decorated
with classical torch appliqués, satin-lined interiors
and bevelled glass. Another antique case presented by
M.S. Rau Antiques, which dates back to 1850, features
porcelain and enamel panels in shades of blue, pink
and cream. An ormolu-mounted frame sits on scrolled
feet while the interior is lined with blue silk. The handpainted case was owned by an 18th century pastoral
couple from Austria.
Linda Fredheim
Lalique
Bespoke glass and crystal-ware
maker Lalique has created the
Perle jewellery box using carbon
fibre and Macassar wood from
Indonesia. Each piece takes 28 days
to complete: 14 layers of lacquer are
applied to each panel for a durable
and waterproof finish before the
panels are hand polished. On the lid
is an intricate crystal inlay.
Australian furniture designer
Linda Fredheim’s Navigate
features a towering case
made of Tasmanian eucalypt,
myrtle, plywood and printed
silk embellished with brass,
silver and steel jewellery by
Karin Beaumont. The printed
silk is based on artist Michaye
Boulter’s original painting,
which was exhibited at
Carnegie Gallery in Tasmania,
Australia, and features artistic
works inspired by rivers and
oceans.
(Image courtesy of Peter Whyte)
Jewellery boxes are trinkets of time
89
DESIGN
PIERRE STERLÉ
by Jennifer Henricus
With his unique work,
Pierre Sterlé became a major
influence on 20th century
fine jewellery design
90
m
OPPOSITE PAGE
The Bird brooch in
18k gold and coral,
with wings carved with
hardstone lined with
diamonds (courtesy of
Primavera Gallery,NY)
ovement, humour
and refinement. The
leading characteristics
of Pierre Sterlé’s
distinctive jewellery, which continue to win
him an international following more than
three decades after his death.
Sterlé’s vision for beauty was centred
on movement and fluidity. He used many
innovations to achieve this and is credited
with pioneering unusual methods to use
gold: his fil d’ange (angel wire), a braided
pattern, reportedly inspired by a visit to the
Egyptian Museum in Cairo, gave his pieces an
unrivalled fluidity.
This penchant for twisting gold wire
earned him the unlikely nickname, “the
torturer of wire”. Foxtail chain was also an
important method for movement and was
almost a signature for him, swishing in his
extraordinary jewels as feathers of a bird,
fins of fish, tentacles of a sea creature or fine
details of flowers. Some of his designs had
intriguing asymmetry, elements that added a
greater sense of movement to each piece.
“His vision of femininity was a beautiful
understanding between timeless grace and
modern aesthetics,” says Sophie Jackson at
Symbolic & Chase, a London gallery that
offers a few Sterlé pieces.
Sterlé’s genius lay not in any specific
jewellery-making skill, but in a fantastic
imagination that brought to life amazing
pieces. The story goes that while working
for one of Paris’s top couturiers, he pulled a
petal from a bowl of roses, and used a simple
straight pin to attach it to the shoulder of a
dress. The result was so perfect that he had it
made in platinum and diamonds, one of his
first jewels. His unique talent was recognised
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Necklace in 18k gold
with tourmaline, citrine,
aquamarine and amethyst (courtesy of the
Primavera Gallery, NY)
The Lightning ring in
18k yellow and white
gold; gold and pavé
diamond Ribbon twist
bangle; passion was
the main motivator for
Pierre Sterlé
91
DESIGN
by prestigious jewellery houses and he
worked for several, including Boucheron
and Chaumet. In 1934, at the age of 29, he
opened a salon in Paris and soon attracted
a following of chic jewellery buyers, not just
for his unique designs but also because of his
charismatic charm. The writer Collette was
among his devoted clientèle, as were King
Farouk of Egypt and the Maharani of Baroda.
Sterlé loved colour, using coral, turquoise,
mother of pearl and a multitude of gems in
the way artists use paint, often combining
precious and non-precious stones in the
same piece. When he chose to work in
diamonds he seemed to impose a more
restrained grace and movement: ribbons of
round and baguette diamonds in white gold
or platinum mountings move gently around
each other, or form wing or leaf shapes, while
tassels of diamonds flutter from necklaces
and bracelets. This unique style won him
the De Beers Diamond Award in three
consecutive years — 1953, 1954 and 1955.
Unfortunately Sterlé found himself in
financial difficulty several times in his career.
According to Jackson he was not motivated
by money but was driven by his passion for
design and an obsession with quality — the
main reasons for his financial woes.
Some experts say it was his foray into the
world of perfumes that was his undoing: he
launched two perfumes in 1955 and in order
to meet his high quality standards, he ended
up spending more on the manufacturing
process than he could sell them for, incurring
huge losses that forced him to sell his
property and art collections.
FROM TOP
Sterlé flower brooch in
18k gold with diamonds,
citrine, aquamarine,
amethyst and tourmaline (courtesy of Primavera Gallery, NY); brooch
in diamonds, platinum
and gold, circa 1950s
and bird brooch in engraved labradorite, diamond, yellow gold and
platinum, circa 1960s
(courtesy of Christie’s);
18k gold, platinum and
diamond brooch, Paris,
circa 1950 (courtesy
of Sotheby’s); vintage
Comet brooch with
a ‘fox-tail’ chain and
a peridot (courtesy of
Primavera Gallery, NY)
Despite these difficulties he continued to
design jewellery and enjoyed success at the
1966 Paris Biennale. But financial troubles
continued to beset him and in 1976 he was
forced to liquidate the company. Chaumet
bought all his remaining stock and Sterlé
became the brand’s artistic advisor. Sterlé
died in 1978 at the age of 73. But his unique
influence on the world of jewellery lives
on, proven by the many auctions where his
pieces are sold for more than their estimates,
a fact that would have both pleased and
astounded him.
The writer Collette was among his
devoted clientèle, as were King Farouk
of Egypt and the Maharani of Baroda
92
REVIEW
SIHH REVIEW
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
Women on Top
Mechanical timepieces for the fairer of the species abound
at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
94
L ike many past editions, the
2013 Salon de la Haute
Horlogerie (SIHH) was a stellar
showing of new technologies, timekeeping
innovations and aesthetics. But this year, the
advancements weren’t just dedicated to men’s
models, but also to mechanical timepieces
for women, catering to a growing worldwide
demand for such watches.
Women’s watches were, in fact, the
highlight of several brands’ collections.
Vacheron Constantin dedicated its entire
novelty collection to ladies’ models, including
complications under its Patrimony line,
bejewelled pieces in the Malte Lady series
and metiers d’art in a collection inspired
by flowers. Piaget presented a new range
called the Limelight Gala featuring a stylish
new case shape, and extended its range of
high-jewellery pieces with gold-wire models
in the Couture Precieuse collection. Jaeger-
FROM TOP TO
BOTTOM
Excalibur 36mm in pink
gold with diamonds,
ROGER DUBUIS;
Royal Oak Automatique
in rose gold with diamonds, AUDEMARS
PIGUET; Limelight Gala
in gold with fully pavéd
diamond dial and bezel,
PIAGET
LeCoultre celebrated its 180th anniversary
with a unique sky-mapping function in its
Rendez-Vous Celestial, while Audemars Piguet
showcased women’s versions of its most wellknown lines, the Jules Audemars and the
Royal Oak.
Meanwhile, Roger Dubuis and Ralph
Lauren unveiled high-jewellery watches
with large baguette-cut and pavé diamonds.
Van Cleef & Arpels continued its foray into
poetic complications with the Lady Arpels
Ballerine Enchantée watch, telling time using
a retrograde movement in the form of a
ballerina’s skirt.
From stylish and understated to bold and
bejewelled, the latest timepieces from SIHH
help women step up the horological ladder.
Shaped to Perfection
Brands presented all sorts of case shapes,
starting with with Cartier’s Crash timepiece,
which looks like it came right out of Salvador
Dali’s studio. First released in 1967, the
whimsical case design was inspired by
a damaged watch that was brought to a
Cartier repair shop in London. This latest
edition comes in 18k pink gold or white
gold, with a gem-set bezel and a version
with a diamond-set bracelet. At Vacheron
Constantin, the diamond shape sets the
stage for actual diamonds to shine with
the Lady Malte collection. The models
come in the line’s signature tonneau
cases and feature diamond-studded
bezels and dials. Inspired by the fanciful
spirit of the 1960s, Piaget’s Limelight Gala
timepieces come in round cases with
elegantly extending lugs, forming a curvy
‘9’. Their silhouette is accented with a bezel
set with a row of progressively sized brilliantcut diamonds, while the dials feature black
Roman numerals matched with a satin strap.
95
REVIEW
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM
Rendez-Vous Celestial
in white gold with
diamonds, JAEGERLECOULTRE; Lady
Arpels Ballerine
Enchantée Poetic
Complication, VAN
CLEEF & ARPELS;
Couture Precieuse chain
cuff watch in rose gold,
PIAGET; Velvet High
Jewellery watch with 304
diamonds (13.6cts) including baguettes in 50
different sizes, ROGER
DUBUIS
Watch bracelets featured handworked patterns and were made of
precious metals set with diamonds
Strap Savvy
Cases weren’t the only elements vying for
attention this year. Brands like Cartier, Piaget
and Ralph Lauren presented models with
bracelets featuring hand-worked patterns and
made of precious metals set with diamonds.
Cartier’s Tank Americaine Medium comes with
a white-gold bracelet etched in a fish-scale
pattern, set in diamonds to match the case
and the bezel. Piaget’s Couture Precieuse chain
cuff watch from the 1970s makes a grand
reappearance with intricate mesh bracelets in
rose gold, plaited and twisted like threads to
highlight the work of a couturier. The watch
comes with ruby, turquoise or white motherof-pearl dials.
It’s Complicated
Mechanical watches are more complex to
make, but enjoyable to wear and can last
longer if you like to fiddle with gadgets.
Jaeger-LeCoultre continued to expand
its range of women’s mechanical models
with the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin
96
REVIEW
This year, the advancements
weren’t just dedicated
to men’s models but also
mechanical timepieces
dedicated to women
Duetto Duo. Constructed with the brand’s
signature reversible swivel case at a mere
8.87mm, the watch is equipped with the hand
wound Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 864/A, and
assembled, crafted and decorated by hand.
The hours and minutes dial in front features
a silvered guilloché motif, while the back has
a second time zone indication on mother-ofpearl marquetry. The steel and 18k pink-gold
versions are set with 30 diamonds on the
case, while the 18k white-gold model has 153
diamonds.
Parmigiani Fleurier’s Pershing Chronograph
002 CBF placed a feminine spin on a sporty
watch. Fitted with the automatic movement
PF334, the timepiece features a small
seconds dial at 3 o’clock, a date window and a
quarter-second chronograph. Created in rose
gold, the bezel is set with 56 Top Wesselton
diamonds (approximately 1.28cts), and the dial
comes in tinted mother-of-pearl. A limited
edition of 58 pieces, Montblanc’s 58 Seconde
Authentique Joaillerie is a unique chronograph
equipped with the hand-winding calibre M62,
which showcases a unique layout of subdials,
including seconds at 6 o’clock. A total of 144
brilliant-cut diamonds are set on the bezel
that borders the white mother-of-pearl dial.
98
Enamel Art
There was an abundance of metier d’ art
watches as well, mostly presented by Van
Cleef & Arpels and Vacheron Constantin.
From engraving and sculpture on gold, to
enameling and miniature painting, the talents
of master watch artists were showcased
in four impressive collections: Vacheron
Constantin’s Florilege, and Van Cleef &
Arpels’ Charms Extraordinaires, Cerf-Volants
and Lady Arpels Papillon.
FROM TOP TO
BOTTOM
Metiers d’Art Florilege
White Lily watch in
white gold with handguilloché and Grand Feu
cloisonné transluscent
enamelling,
VACHERON
CONSTANTIN;
Charms Extraordinaire
with champlevé enamel
dial in a 32mm white
gold case,
VAN CLEEF &
ARPELS;
58 Seconde Authentique
Joaillerie chronograph
with diamonds on the
bezel, MONTBLANC;
Grande Reverso Lady
Ultra Thin with Valextra
strap; JAEGERLECOULTRE; Pershing
Chronograph 002 CBF
in gold with diamond
bezel, PARMIGIANI
FLEURIER
@SDKHDQYTOOHMFDQBG
Crown
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or watch winder?
Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking
at www.hautehorlogerie.org
Crown | The winding crown is a knurled or fluted button of various shapes, held
between the thumb and forefinger and used to wind the watch. Some crowns incorporate a mobile pushbutton for operating a chronograph mechanism or to release the
cover of a hunter case.
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REVIEW
VICENZAORO REVIEW
by Charmaine Tai with Michelle Tay
Italian jewellers set the style
for gems in 2013
The winter edition of VicenzaOro saw more than 29,000 visitors browsing
the extensive collection of fine jewellery, watches, jewels and gemstones on
display. The six-day exhibition held from 19 to 24 January featured more than
1,500 international brands, many of which are headquartered in Italy.
The show offered a first look at 2013’s jewel trends. With the theme, “The
Future. Now”, dramatic, one-of-a-kind pieces were the stars. Structural gold
and silver jewellery, as well as coloured stones, took centre stage.
The general consent for the year is to frame eye-catching jewels in various
hues of gold. Casato highlights rose gold for its rings, while Le Vian forecasts
the use of honey and strawberry gold as a setting.
100
Striking It Rich
Strong-coloured jewels like sapphires, amethysts and rubies
are able to stand alone, but when used in abundance and
in different shades, they form a statement piece. Novarese &
Sannazzaro combines them to form butterfly motifs, while
Tirisi uses bold-coloured jewels in its Milano collection.
Miiori’s FlashSet allows the wearer to have the best of both
worlds: a multi-coloured face when viewed at one angle, and
a classic white diamond face at another.
Pale coral, turquoise and opaque green are often
matched to produce a colour gradient
OPPOSITE
Keshi Necklace 1 with
diamonds and pearls,
YOKO LONDON
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Fire & Ice Necklace set
with white diamonds
and coloured gemstones, MIIORI; Sahara
earrings, NOVARESE
& SANNAZARO;
Anthalya Ring, NOVARESE & SANNAZARO; Anima white and
rose gold ring with diamonds, CHIMENTO;
Infinity rings in in yellow
gold with diamonds,
yellow gold, and white
gold and diamonds,
CHIMENTO; earrings
by ZYDO
Riding the Waves
Jewellers are going for circles and wavy designs
instead of producing sharp, edgy looks. Utopia
incorporates circular patterns in its Melodia
collection and coiled snake motifs in its Eden
collection. Chimento’s Infinity and Diana
collections weave layers in bangles and cuffs,
while Giloro’s Wire collection transforms the
otherwise streamlined designs into swirly pieces
of art. Zydo, known for its cutting-edge, white
diamond pieces, presents twice-looped
earrings for a simple yet classy look.
101
REVIEW
Radiant Eclipse
Though darker coloured gems may not
ot
reflect as much light, they don’t take a
back seat this season. Onyx, brown and
d
black diamonds, as well as dark-coloured
red
tourmalines and pearls, are great accents to
bold-coloured outfits. Talento opts for onyx
and black pavé diamonds in its Parisien
collection, while Yoko London uses
Tahitian pearls for its Baroque collection
and Keshi necklaces.
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
White gold ring with
onyx, tanzanite and
round-cut white and
black diamonds,
TALENTO; flower
motif necklace from the
Black&Blue collection,
LE VIAN; pendant
from the Bolero collection, UTOPIA; Pearl
necklace from the
Black&Blue collection,
LE VIAN; 18k rose gold
ring with rubies and
white and champagne
diamonds, CASATO;
Tai Tee earrings,
CASATO; Funny Shape
ring and drop earings,
LEADERLINE
Pearly Pastels
Though mostly used in bridal fashion, the
pastel colour trend has caught on as seen in
Le Vian’s rings and Moraglione’s Anastasia
collection. Blue White Group’s Leaderline
collection uses creamy shades, as do JJewels’
Funny Shape, Zarina and Arcobaleno
collections. Pale coral, turquoise and opaque
green are often matched to produce a colour
gradient. The gems are then set on rings and
bracelets for stacking.
Structural gold and silver jewellery, as well
as coloured stones, took centre stage
102
DESIGN
LA BAYADÈRE JEWELLERY
by Nina Hald
Seventeen Danish designers
illustrate the spirit of the
ballet, La Bayadère
&
104
OPPOSITE PAGE
La Bayadère choker with
535 brilliants totalling
6.2cts, moonstone, rutilated and lemon quartz,
green tourmalines,
citrines, a mabé cultured
pearl and a drop-shaped
South Sea cultured
pearl set in 18k red gold
(Image courtesy of Hedi
Lerkenfeldt)
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Allan Scharff’s Buddyguard ring in 18k gold,
sterling silver and a
black faceted diamond
in 11.1cts; hair ornament
in gilded silver with a
2.6 carat blue topaz
and a briolette cut
citrine of around
12.2cts; Birgitte
Munch’s natural zircon
necklace in 14k rose
and white gold paved
with 91 brown brillants
totalling 2.88cts, a
1.7ct morganite and
a baroque freshwater
cultured pearl; three
hairpins in 14k rose
and white gold paved
with brown diamonds
and morganites
(Images courtesy of
Iben Kaufmann)
he lights are dimmed, the curtain raised,
and you find yourself in a magical realm
where gravity seems suspended for ever
so brief moments in time. This is the
world of ballet and its dancers. The right to soar across the
stage is a hard-earned privilege, obtained through years
of relentless training. Strength is nothing without beauty,
and vice versa. And it is this combination of traits that has
inspired a unique jewellery exhibition.
Seventeen Danish designers and goldsmiths,
including Bodil Binner and Ole Lynggaard, have
come up with a collection of precious jewels in
homage to the ballet La Bayadère. The exhibition,
called Strength & Beauty – Jewellery for the Royal Ballet,
is the jewellers’ take on costumes conceived by set
designer Richard Hudson. Just as glittering and beguiling
as the iconic dance, shown in an enchanted curved arcade
of the Royal Ballet of Denmark’s Old Stage in the heart of
Copenhagen, the jewellery creations are nothing short of
spectacular, in superlative sizes set with gemstones and pearls.
La Bayadère was choreographed by Marius Petipa (18181910) in 1877, and is known as one of his masterpieces
because of its dramatic, lyrical dances. The word bayadère has
two meanings: a female temple dancer, and a long tassel pearl
necklace that was at the height of fashion from 1900 to 1910.
The very long string of pearls was worn once around the
throat, with a tassel on each side of the body.
T
Just as glittering and beguiling
as the iconic dance, the jewels are shown
in an enchanted curved arcade of the
Royal Ballet of Denmark’s Old Stage
105
FACETS
YULI JEWELLERY
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
As a celebrated Asian jewellery designer, Jessie Foo Yuli
has always looked at her life and the world around her
as sources of inspiration. Her jewellery is an eclectic mix
of classic and avant-garde styles, as seen in her diamondstudded Dreamy Star collection, and meteorite and
satellite cocktail rings from the Space series.
This year, she presents a collection of one-of-a-kind
pieces created with diamonds, jade, emeralds, rubies and
sapphires called the Breaking Dawn. Launched at the
Hong Kong International jewellery show in March, the
pieces symbolise new beginnings, breaking into a new
year, and moving forward into the new century. This black
diamond and gold necklace is one of the emblematic
pieces of the collection, using more than 118 carats of
black diamonds and 9 carats of white diamonds.
Black diamonds and gold signify a new era
for a prominent Singapore jeweller
106
Breaking Dawn necklace
in 18k gold with 38 black
diamonds totalling
177.84cts and 9cts of
white diamonds
DESIGN
THIS PAGE
Image courtesy of
Stefano Ricci
OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Bracelet from JOHN
HARDY; belt from
FREY WILLE
108
MEN’S JEWELLERY
by Lisa-Ann Lee
n 1928, Cartier created one
of its most iconic pieces and
its single largest commission
to date – the Patiala necklace.
This magnificent Art Deco creation took
their master craftsmen three years and 2,930
diamonds – among which was the world’s
seventh largest DeBeers diamond – to
complete. The person who wore this fabulous
necklace was not, as many might assume, a
woman, but a man – Maharaja Bhupinder
Singh of Patiala. The necklace would later
adorn the neck of his son and heir, Maharaja
Yadavindra Singh.
The maharajas of India were not the
only men to appreciate a finely crafted
accessory. Indeed, history tells us that their
royal counterparts in China, Russia and the
Ottoman Empire were no less appreciative
of jewellery either. These days though, the
sartorial tastes of movers and shakers are
markedly less ostentatious, if the style choices
of Bill Gates and Mark Zuckerberg are
anything to go by.
That said, recent trends seem to indicate
that men — and not just the Cristiano
I
Ronaldos and P. Diddys of the world — are
once again starting to appreciate the value
of a well-made accessory. According to a
2010 study conducted by Philadelphia-based
luxury marketing consulting firm Unity
Marketing, despite the economic downturn,
the growth in men’s jewellery spending
exceeded that of women’s jewellery, increasing
10 per cent between 2007 and 2009 in the US.
Asia is also reporting similar trends.
Guy Bedarida, head designer and creative
director of John Hardy, observes that
today’s men are “more adventurous”
compared to their counterparts of 10
years ago, whose idea of jewellery was
limited to bracelets, necklaces and
cuff links made with precious metals.
“Today, men are looking for unique
materials to give [themselves] an
individual identity,” he says.
Men are also starting to see jewellery
as more than a style accessory, says Jelita
Setifa, marketing manager at Mondial.
“Men are starting to see diamond
jewellery as one of the alternatives for
investment.”
Gems
for
Gents
No longer the providence of soccer players and rappers, men’s
jewellery is now finding favour with a new generation of men as
they look for ways to add flair and style to their wardrobe
109
DESIGN
She also adds that there is an increased
desire for male accessories that reflect the
wearer’s individuality and achievements. “Men
are more aware of fashion and are thus more
concerned about items such as clothes, ties,
shoes and bags. They seek something that can
be worn, which can also serve as a ‘symbol’ of
their success,” she notes.
HEAVY METAL TREND
COLOUR
UR ME DIFFERENT
While silver, platinum and white gold remain
the go-to choice for most owing to their
low-key hues, other precious metals are
also starting to find favour with gentlemen
looking for something other than the same
old. Indeed, according to Setifa, rose gold is
becoming increasingly popular with its Asian
clientele owing to its ability to add a subtle
flair to one’s appearance. “It can be used as
an accent to make the [accessory] look more
dynamic,” she says.
But why stop at precious metals? For
men looking to express their own sense of
individuality, their choice of accoutrements
is limited only by their sense of imagination.
These days, men have the option of mixing
and matching different and unconventional
materials such as precious stones, mixed
metals and coloured cotton cords. “That’s why
when I introduced the Fall 2012 collection
for men, I included bronze metal beads
and meteorite and even antique coins for
discerning males who are looking for an edge
but do not want to appear overly flamboyant,”
says Bedarida.
Where men
en are concerned, the
subject of coloured gemstones can
be a tricky one to navigate and goes
some way to explaining why the
colour palette
ette for men’s jewellery is so
limited. For
or starters, there is the issue
of masculinity
nity to contend with. How far
can one flirt
rt with the colour chart if one
doesn’t want
ant to be consigned to the usual
greys and silvers? For some, like the editors
of GQ, the advice is to stay away from
accessoriess that sparkle or are too bright.
For others
ers like Leong Wong, fashion editor
for Esquire Malaysia, there’s nothing wrong
with beingg adventurous and adding a bit of
sparkle to your outfit. The key is not to overdo
things. “Keep
eep the jewels to a minimum with
strong coloured
oured stones,” he says, adding that
blue and green stones are usually a good
colour for most gents.
If you’ree looking for a subtle way of adding
a little colour
our and personality to your outfit
without going
oing overboard, cufflinks are an
accessory to consider. It used to be said that
you could tell a lot about a man by his shoes.
shoes
“Men are starting to see diamond
jewellery as one of the alternatives
for investment”
TOP, FROM LEFT
Chain from Supernova
collection, TSL; ring
from MONDIAL
LEFT
Cufflinks from
VICTOR MAYER
110
10
DESIGN
Style
File
Don’t be afraid of colour. While men’s jewellery
tends to come in monochromatic shades, that
doesn’t mean that you have to limit yourself to silver
doesn’
similar-hued accessories. Experiment with differor sim
materials and coloured gemstones to see what
ent ma
suits you
y best.
RETURN OF THE PINS
Thanks to TV shows such as Mad Men,
the past few years have seen a revival of
traditional men’s accessories such as lapel
pins, tie pins and bars. During the 2012
Academy Awards for example, actors Tom
Hanks and Christopher Plummer drew the
attention of the style set with their discreet
lapel pins.
If you’re looking to add an edge to an
otherwise monochromatic suit, there’s always
the option of jazzing things up with a wellplaced pin or brooch, as demonstrated by
fashion doyen Karl Lagerfeld, who is almost
never seen without one. It’s also a look that
112
was employed to dramatic effect at Prada’s
last autumn/winter fashion show in Milan,
with actors Adrien Brody, Emile Hirsch and
Jamie Bell sporting military-style brooches.
Whatever you choose to wear, keep
in mind that confidence is key and that
as with all things, you should wear what
you’re comfortable with.
Size isn’t everything.
Although they’ve been
around for 800 years,
cufflinks have lost none
of their elegant allure
and a distinctive pair
can subtly set you apart
from the rest of the
sartorially challenged
crowd.
Image by Helga Esteb / Shutterstock.com
These days, the same ca
can
an also be said about
his cufflinks.
hi
ffli k F
For example,
l the
h gambler
bl iin you
might find an affinity with a pair of rouletteshaped ones or if you’re an avid sailor, you
might find a pair of nautical-themed ones
more to your taste.
Indeed, for designers such as Londonbased Robert Tateossian, these traditional
men’s accessories have become a canvas
for creativity. No longer limited to solid
geometrical shapes, today’s cufflinks range
from the whimsical to the downright quirky,
taking on all kinds of shapes and making
use of unusual materials such as blue topaz,
tourmaline cat’s eye and natural rubies.
FROM TOP
Maritime North Star
Collection; Cufflinks
from FREY WILLE;
Compass in black and
white, ZACAN; Signet
Cushion rings from
David Yurman
Mix and match: Johnny Depp is a man who loves
his accessories and he isn’t afraid to show them off,
often wearing different combinations of rings, chains
and bracelets without losing his sense of masculinity.
What’s important is knowing how to make them an
extension of your personality without looking like
you’re trying too hard to be trendy.
Ƥ ƣ ƧƭƪΎPPAƟƝΎƬƧ
ƤơƣƝΎƧƭƪΎ
ƤơƣƝΎƧ
ƟƝΎƬ DA
DAƱΎAƬΎ
WWW.FACE
WW.FACEBOOK.SOLITAIREINDONESIA.COM
CEBOOK SSOLITA
NDON SIA.CO
PT.Adi Permata Gemilang
Jl. Hang Lekir No. 4D, Senayan Kebayoran Baru – Jakarta Selatan 12120, Telp : 722 2496 – 99, Email : [email protected]
www.cremepublishing.com
TIME
INTERVIEW
JANEK DELESKIEWICZ
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
E
In his
114
lement
The man who keeps fine
watchmaking on the map
F
or over twenty years,
Janek Deleskiewicz
has had a hand in
the creative design of
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s
watches. While he doesn’t hail from a line
of watchmakers, his keen eye for detail and
artistic flair are among the reasons that
the company has continued to expand its
portfolio. Several iconic models, like the
Reverso, the Atmos clock; the Master and
Hybris Mechanica series, and most recently,
a collection dedicated to women, the RendezVous, were out under his care. As JaegerLeCoultre celebrates its 180th anniversary,
Deleskiewicz’s unique talent comes to the
fore as he explains how he keeps the brand’s
heritage alive in timepieces that also reflect
refinement and innovation.
“Women know value
when they see it. I
think it’s good that
we have a lot more
models to offer”
OPPOSITE PAGE
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s
Grande Reverso Duetto
in stainless steel
THIS PAGE FROM
TOP
When it comes to
designing timepieces,
Janek Deleskiewicz
has a unique sense of
style; the latest Atmos
Marqueterie clock, in
tribute to the art of
Gustav Klmt
IT’S YOUR 180TH ANNIVERSARY THIS
YEAR. IF YOUR FOUNDER ANTOINE
LECOULTRE WERE ALIVE TODAY,
WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO HIM?
I’d say that I am very proud of his creations.
I have the same respect for him as I have
for my grandfather — I think he was a
genius and a visionary. Perhaps he will not
be surprised by what has happened to the
manufacture, because during his life, he never
lost confidence in his watchmaking ability.
DO YOU THINK JAEGER-LECOULTRE
IS ON THE SAME PATH AS IT WAS IN
THE BEGINNING?
I think Antoine would be very proud of
what we have achieved. But he will not be
surprised. When I started working here (in
1987) we decided that the vision of JaegerLeCoultre was to be the reference in fine
watchmaking. I don’t know if we are now, but
I hope we have started the process, and are
showing through our creations that we are
capable of making watchmaking art.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE WATCH
FROM THIS YEAR’S NOVELTIES?
I think the Gyrotourbillon is one of our best
achievements. For the ladies, I think it’s the
Rendez-Vous Celestial. The watch signifies a
strong evolution of mechanical watchmaking
for ladies.
WHAT CAN YOU SAY ABOUT THE
GROWING DEMAND FOR WOMEN’S
MECHANICAL WATCHES?
For us it’s been a success, there is a real
demand, specifically for the Rendez-Vous
Automatic, and the Reverso Duetto. Women
today know what they want – specific
complications and specific mechanisms.
But it’s not only the new models. The 101,
which still holds the record for the smallest
mechanical movement ever made, was created
by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1929. Women know
value when they see it.
WHAT IS IT ABOUT YOUR JOB THAT
YOU LOVE?
Everything! The travel, interviews, meeting
with my designer friends and watchmakers.
I love the people. I feel better when I can do
different things during the week. Monday I can
be at the manufacture, then the next day I can
be in a meeting with the cinematographers
who make our films.
SO YOU HAVE A HAND IN THE
CREATION OF THE BRAND’S WATCH
MOVIES?
Yes. I have a hand in the concept for these
movies. Our primary objective is to show
beauty, a great representation of the product.
My aim is for people to recognise that the
watch is a Jaeger-LeCoultre by just the visuals.
To define the brand so that if you don’t have
time to spend reading, just seeing the watch
you will know it is a Jaeger-LeCoultre.
HOW DO YOU INSPIRE YOUNG
DESIGNERS TO THINK OUT OF THE
BOX? DO YOU CONSIDER YOURSELF
A MENTOR?
I am not a teacher. I do not like influencing
a person’s ideas and style too much. If you’re
from New York, then you must design like a
New Yorker, and if you’re from Rome, then I
expect that your designs are Italian. It’s very
important to keep your character. It’s always
good to have that, to bring something new to
the manufacture.
115
KNOWLEDGE
GOLD PRINTING
minds
beautiful
by Katrina Balmaceda
Man and machine create golden magic
THIS PAGE
Golden Neem
necklace in 18k
yellow gold, DANA
BLOOM
OPPOSITE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Golden Neem ring
in 18k yellow gold;
Golden Neem necklace in 18k yellow gold
and 0.5 carats of diamonds; Golden Neem
ring in 18k yellow
gold and 0.5 carats
of diamonds, all from
DANA BLOOM;
Sphaira ring in yellow
gold 750, BETTINA
GEISTLICH;
Happy Bird earrings in
gold, MICHIEL
CORNELISEEN
116
A golden bird sits on a golden swing,
hinged to a golden cage. Hours before,
they were but gold dust; the powder was
then fed to a 3D printer that laser-fused
the material to form 18k gold earrings.
Designed by Michiel Cornelissen and
manufactured by 3D Worknet, they are
said to be the world’s first golden earrings
to come straight out of a printer.
The claim is not far-fetched. Jewellers
have been 3D-printing wax prototypes
for years, but only recently has a machine
been built that can directly print gold. The
process is called selective laser melting,
or “cusing” — using high-powered laser
beams to melt and weld metal powder in
a chamber filled with inert gas. The
printer repeats the process layer
by layer until the design,
which comes from a
CAD (computer-
aided design) file, is completely formed.
Such a new development means the
equipment is pricey and the process has
yet to evolve and be refined.“There are
still many restrictions and limitations [in
3D printing], but they are outweighed
by the possibilities that are opening up,”
says Cornelissen, who studied design
engineering and spent more than 10
years working at Philips Design. The
technology shows its merit and promise
in Cornelissen’s Merry Bird and Happy
Bird jewellery — the parts are made as
whole pieces, the earrings require no
post-production, and the bird’s swing truly
sways. Handcraftsmanship is precious
and romantic, but the growing use of
laser cusing might herald an age where
jewellery designers are also engineers.
“I think in the future it will go in that
direction; manufacturers will print directly
in gold,” says Tel Aviv-based jeweller Dana
Bloom, who once worked as a designer at
Cartier. But at the moment, she prefers to
Jewellers have been
3D-printing wax prototypes
for years, but only recently has
a machine been built that can
directly print gold
print only the wax prototype
and perform
perfor the rest of the
process — in
including sketching,
finishing, cold connections and
soldering — by hand. She says: “In
order to keep the high quality and
uniqueness, it is important to give the
final touch of the jewel by hand. It gives
it the sensual feeling of a precious piece.”
Swiss designer Bettina Geistlich says
that 3D printing is widely practised in
the jewellery industry because it enables
jewellers to create items that would be
impossible to make using traditional
methods. Her Sphaira ring won the
Red Dot Design Award in 2009 and was
digitally designed, featuring a bouquetlike ball formed by six congruent shapes
joined movably but inseparably.
Similarly, the sinuous outlines and
complex vein patterns of Bloom’s
Golden Neem collection would have
been impossible to create without digital
aid in making the prototype. Golden Neem
— leaves with a healthy web of capillaries,
yet wilting — is inspired by nature living
and languishing.
Some analysts say that 3D printing,
which is heavily used to make aeronautic
components, car parts, dental crowns and
prosthetics, could lead to an “additive
manufacturing” revolution. And while this
increases the risk of easy piracy, Bloom
says one can always guard the design file,
and looks to the advantages instead, such
as the ease of making rings in different
sizes and customising designs.
Geistlich cautions: “3D printing is
only an additional tool. It never replaces
creativity.” Bloom adds: “Our goal is to
create new designs that won’t look like
they were designed on computers.” After
all, machines still require beautiful minds
to create exceptional products.
117
GOLD COLLECTIONS
by Sandy Tan
LACED
and
Layered
1
Contemporary gold collections of ornamental beauty
Since ancient times, gold’s malleability has always presented unique opportunities for bold and
intricate jewellery designs. Contemporary collections continue to feature delicate craftsmanship, filigree
ornamental work, gold hammering and latticework, presenting textures and patterns for the setting of
precious stones. Solitaire presents a selection of elegant pieces to match any ensemble.
118
2
THIS SPREAD
1. Di Amour necklace in
pink gold with diamonds,
CHANTECLER; 2.
Cloverlead and floralinspired gold and diamond
necklace, SOO KEE
JEWELLERY; 3. Dangling
earrings in yellow gold,
MASTERPIECE BY KING
FOOK 4. Copley cuff in
yellow gold, HEARTS ON
FIRE; 5. Camelia cuff in
gold, DIOR
3
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119
THIS SPREAD
1. Mode Gold Twirl bangle in
yellow gold, GOLDHEART;
2. Mode Weave rings in
champagne gold, rose gold
and brilliant diamonds,
GOLDHEART; 3. Bracelet
in rose gold and diamonds,
KINGFOOK; 4. Flex’it Niue
bangle in rose gold with
black diamonds, FOPE
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1
2
3
4
120
5. Mode Weave ring in
rose gold and brilliant
diamonds, GOLDHEART;
6. Pétales Entrelacés ring
in pink gold with diamonds,
MONTBLANC; 7. Mode
Weave bracelet in rose gold
and brilliant0-cut diamonds,
GOLDHEART; 8. Men’s
bracelet, tie clip, ring and
cufflinks from the Royal
Cord Collection, 18k yellow
gold, DAVID YURMAN
6
5
7
8
9
10
11
121
5. Ring in rose gold and
diamonds, MATTIA
CIELO, available at
KINGFOOK; 6. Geometric
drop earrings in rose gold,
DEGRISOGONO
7. Revelation necklace in gold
and cord, POH HENG
THIS SPREAD
1. Queen of Splendour
necklace, POH HENG;
2. & 3. Fish-inspired bracelet
and rings in yellow and
noble gold with diamonds,
H. STERN; 4. Mode
Tri-Angle ring in rose gold
and brilliant-cut diamonds,
GOLDHEART
1
3
2
122
5
6
4
7
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123
ATELIER GALAS
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124
ATELIER GALAS
telier
125
GALAS
Life begins at 40
Singaporean retailer Cortina Watch celebrates
40 years with a time-themed gala dinner
Cortina Watch commemorated its 40th founding anniversary
with a black tie gala dinner at the Fairmont Ballroom of
Fairmont Hotel Singapore on November 15. Anthony
Lim, CEO, chairman and founder of Cortina Watch,
welcomed more than a thousand guests, and expressed
his appreciation for partners and customers who have
supported the company over the last 40 decades. Themed
“Time after Time,” the gala dinner dazzled with video
montages of Cortina’s milestones as well as a performance
by Singaporean singer Joi Chua. At the event, the watch
retailer presented more than USD100,000 in donations to
several beneficiaries, including the Singapore Clock and
Watch Trade Association.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Cheryl & Jeremy Lim; Svetlana Zaragovodnyaya & David Ponzo; Jeremy
Lim, Thierry Stern, Yati Paulsen, Anthony Lim & Dirk Paulsen; the board of
directors at Cortina Watch; Ingrid Prasatya & Doris Lu
128
LIKE OUR PAGE TODAY AT
WWW.FACEBOOK.SOLITAIREMAGAZINE.COM
GALAS
Lunch for a Cause
American jeweller David Yurman hosts a ladies
luncheon in Hong Kong for a good cause
More than 50 guests gathered for a good cause at a ladies
charity luncheon hosted by David Yurman in the Peak Suite
of the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong on 28 November.
Models wearing silver and diamond jewellery from David
Yurman’s Labyrinth collection paraded in style and
encouraged guests to learn more about the brand’s newest
creations. Various jewellery pieces went on sale, with 10 per
cent of the total proceeds raised benefitting Hong Kong’s
Suicide Prevention Services. Guests included honorary
patrons of the charity Wendy Kwok and Linda Lau, as
well as Angel Li, Lelia Chow, Eleanor Morris and Ella Lau.
Showing its appreciation to guests, David Yurman donated
five signature silver cable bracelets in a lucky draw.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
A model wears the latest from David Yurman, guest enjoying the Clé de Peau hand
treatment; Josephine Chiu & Linda Lau; Amanda Lau & Anita Tang; from top left:
Yvonne Ma, Ella Wong, Debbie Pun, Linda Lau, Ella Lau, Wendy Kwok, Joyce Lau
& Anna Suen; Eleanor Morris, Lelia Chow, Queenie See & Angela Tam
130
GALAS
Race Time
A star-studded racing extravaganza at SIHH
marks IWC’s partnership with Mercedes AMG
Petronas Formula One
A glittering bevy of A-list celebrities including Kevin Spacey,
Ewan McGregor, Zinédine Zidane, Karolina Kurkova, Ross
Brawn, Eric Dane, Adriana Lima, Luís Figo and Matthew
Fox attended the IWC Race Night on January 23 at the
Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in
Geneva. The event, which marks IWC Schaffhausen’s
partnership with Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One
for the Ingenieur Collection, was attended by at least 800
guests including Asian celebrities such as Anita Yuen, Julian
Cheung and Francis Ng, as well as British band Jamiroquai.
IWC launched its very first Ingenieur in 1955, and its
latest partnership with Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula
One celebrates the technical tour de force of the updated
Ingenieur collection.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
A new model from IWC’s Ingenieur collection; Formula One driver Nico
Roseberg; the IWC booth at SIHH; Zinedine Zidane & his wife; Julian
Cheung, Anita Yuen & Francis Ng
132
GALAS
Mini Museum
Vacheron Constantin reinforces its Asian presence
with a second boutique in Hong Kong
On 27 November, Vacheron Constantin opened its second
boutique in Hong Kong — its 31st worldwide — with a
special exhibition honouring the 100th anniversary of
tonneau-shaped timepieces. Located at the Landmark in
Central, the 100-sqm boutique served as a mini museum
for a series of historical tonneau-shaped timepieces flown
in from Geneva. CEO Juan-Carlos Torres, Commercial
Director Yann Bouillonnec and Asia-Pacific Managing
Director Julien Tornare welcomed guests at the cocktail
reception, which featured novelties from the Malte
Collection and the Haute Joaillerie timepieces, exclusively
available at Landmark Prince’s boutique. Guests were also
invited to an exclusive dinner at the Mandarin Grill, with
a menu created by three-star Michelin Chef Alain Passard
and music provided by clarinet soloist Paul Meyer and the
Gémeaux Quartett from the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Chef Passard with Pansy Ho; Margarita Leung; Michelin star-worthy dinner
at the Mandarin grill; Charles Yang; CYLee, Helen Tang and Dr & Mrs
William Lo
134
GALAS
Trend-setting Concept
Richard Mille draws up global boutique blueprint
with the unveiling of Singapore flagship
Richard Mille makes a mark in the Lion City with the
opening of its first global concept boutique at Grand Hyatt
Singapore, located on the Orchard Road shopping belt.
Covering 200 sq m, the showroom is one of the brand’s
largest and sets the stage for all future Richard Mille
boutiques — a watchmaking workshop, lounge bar and
24 dramatic showcases are some of its most outstanding
features. Richard Mille, the brand’s founder, and Dave Tan,
CEO of Richard Mille Asia, welcomed more than 300 guests,
including Hollywood actress and brand partner Michelle
Yeoh, to the showroom’s opening party on December 14.
Performances by deejay Leo Lanvin and Korean girl group
MISS A added glitter to the event.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Michelle Yeoh wearing an RM051; Datuk Kumar Prabakaran & Datin Rajoo
Rajeswari; DJ Leo Lanvin from Paris; Philip & Sharon Heng with Mr & Mrs
Guniawan; Mr & Mrs Alan Chong; Laurence Wee; Simon Low and Mr & Mrs
Mark Poh
136
www.ejewelryhk.net
email: [email protected]
Unit 1008, 10/F
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No.1 Science Museum Road
Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel (852) 3114 0888 Fax (852) 2367 9931
A PETER HO PRODUCTION
HOROSCOPE
Pisces ring with two
Lionfishes crossing tails
set in diamonds and coloured sapphires, a blue
moonstone cabochon
and a black diamond in
white and yellow gold,
ALESSIO BOSCHI
A QUARTERLY FORECAST
by Olive Cuenca
Aries
Libra
Your fashion sense speaks volumes about
your attitude, creativity and what you can
contribute at work. Keep your standards
high and encourage people around you to
do the same. Beware of backbiters who drain
you of your time and energy. Retain your
vigour with amber, dark quartz and jade.
Dwelling on past issues will do you no good.
Forget the wrong turns you’ve made but
not the lessons learned. A relative in need
will contact you for advice and both of you
will end up learning something along the
way. Adjust your priorities if needed. Smoky
quartz inspires clarity of mind.
Taurus
Scorpio
(21 MARCH – 19 APRIL)
(20 APRIL – 20 MAY)
The hard times are over; spring opens up
plenty of opportunities for you to grow
career-wise. Promising projects, exciting
business trips, informal meetings and new
acquaintances will keep things fresh. Be
in your element with a healthy work-life
balance. Shades of red will let your star burn
bright.
(23 SEPTEMBER – 22 OCTOBER)
Pisces
(19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH)
(23 OCTOBER – 21 NOVEMBER)
Own up to your mistakes but seek help if
needed. Things happen for a reason and
you will just have to accept mishaps as they
come. Take a few more blows and your life
drama will take an unusual twist. Brace for
a very productive April and May. Topaz and
citrine make great companions in difficult
times.
Competition at work is greater than ever
and the extra hours you’ve put in will keep
you at the top of your game. Focus on your
strengths and learn from past mistakes. Your
contribution to the team, no matter how
small, will go a long way. Emerald attracts
luck and will help you stay focused.
Spring is the best time to
bounce back gracefully
after hitting a wall.
Seek opportunities
Sagittarius
where you can fully
Don’t give up on a project you consider
optimise your talents and too difficult for you to complete. Some of
life’s best victories are borne out of difficult
skills. Articulate your
situations. Embrace challenges and take
in stride. South Sea pearls,
competence but resist the everything
which are products of at least five years of
temptation to embellish
nurturing, will remind you that dedication
pays off.
your accomplishments.
Blue is your lucky colour Capricorn
and will keep you ahead You could be looking too far for a solution
of the pack. Turquoise and when the answer is right in front of you. Be
and mindful of others’ needs. Save
tanzanite will guide you observant
up for rainy days but be generous when
charity knocks. Cat’s eye promotes vitality
to career victory.
and harnesses discerning power.
Leo
Virgo
Aquarius
Pick your battles carefully, for in every battle
you lose precious time and energy, which
can be used in more meaningful tasks,
including that personal project you’ve been
putting off for years. Health, love and family
are robust. Topaz, citrine and garnet will
bring determination and success.
Make yourself available for a surprise
invitation from an old contact. Network
well and you’ll meet people who can help
you in your career and love life. Be open to
opportunities and get ready to step out of
your comfort zone.Various coloured sapphires
will help you make the right choices.
Blessings come in many forms and what you
consider a wrong decision now will bring
plenty of great surprises in the future. Be
patient and learn life’s lessons with gusto.
Timing makes all the difference, especially
in asking for a raise or promotion. Yellow
gemstones create a happy vibe.
Gemini
(21 MAY – 20 JUNE)
The desire to re-invent one’s self is high
but energy is low. Stay focused. Dig deep
into your creative spirit and recycle some
tried and tested ideas. Reconnecting with
family and friends will help you re-focus and
energise. The multi-faceted opal will help
bring out the best in you.
Cancer
(21 JUNE – 22 JULY)
(JULY 23 – AUGUST 22)
138
(22 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER)
(22 DECEMBER – 19 JANUARY)
(AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22)
(20 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY)
RING
RING
GUIDE
GUIDE
Your Ring
A ring is a very intimate piece of jewellery; some are worn
every day. This means it should fit well and feel comfortable,
so here are some important sizing tips.
Finding Your
Ring Size
Place your ring on top of any one of
these circles.The size of your ring is
where the circle sits snugly around
the inner circumference of the ring.
12 (16.7MM)
2 (13.2MM)
3 (14MM)
13 (16.9MM)
4 (14.1MM)
Colour-changing
purple sapphire ring in
gold with diamonds,
nds,
CINDY CHAO;;
Chameleon diamond
mond
ring in gold with fancy
coloured diamond
nd
pave, CHOPARD
RD
Leaves ring with
emerald-cut citrine
ine in
yellow and blackk gold
with coloured stones,
ones,
NOVARESE & SANNAZZARO
Sirena ring with rose
quartz and diamonds
onds in
rose gold, VALENTE
ENTE
MILANO; Golden
den
Nectar Inspirationn ring
with cushion-cutt citrine
(9.8cts) and 44 diad
monds set in 18k yellow
gold, PIAGET
14 (17.3MM)
5 (14.3MM)
15 (17.7MM)
6 (14.6MM)
16 (18.2MM)
7 (14.9MM)
8 (15.3MM)
17 (18.5MM)
9 (15.7MM)
Where Size Matters
A person’s ring size may change over time
owing to age, injury or weight change. A
jeweller may be able to resize your ring,
although this depends on its design.
If your finger falls between two sizes, choose
the larger size to make sure it will fit; a wider
ring may require a slightly larger size, because
it covers more of your finger.
Measure your finger size at the end of the day
when your fingers are at their largest (like
sizing shoes).
Wrap a piece of string or a strip of paper
around your finger. Mark the point where the
two ends meet. Measure the string or paper
against a ruler to get the circumference of
your finger. Divide that by 3.14 to get the
diameter of your finger. Look up your ring size
using the table shown on the right.
Don’t measure finger sizes when your
hands are cold; let them warm up to room
temperature.
18 (18.8MM)
10 (16MM)
19 (19.4MM)
11 (16.5MM)
(Sizing is for China, Singapore, Macau, Taiwan, Japan.
Hong Kong uses a different scale)
140
VICENZA
May 18 - 22, 2013
INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF GOLD, JEWELLERY,
SILVERWARE, WATCHES AND GEMSTONES.
www.vicenzaoro.com
www.vicenzafiera.it
SHOW
FACETS
DIARY
March 2013
August 2013
November 2013
5-9 MAR
HKTDC International Jewellery Show
Hong Kong, China
www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en
27-29 AUG
Japan Jewellery Fair
Tokyo, Japan
www.japanjewelleryfair.com
16-18 MAR
China International Gold Jewellery
and Gem Fair
Shenzhen, China
http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/szj/
September 2013
8-11 NOV
China International Gold, Jewellery
& Gem Fair
Shanghai, China
http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/shj/
April 2013
1-4 SEP
International Jewellery London
London, UK
www.jewellerylondon.com
25 APR - 2 MAY
BaselWorld
Basel, Switzerland
www.baselworld.com
18-22 MAY
Vicenza Oro Spring
Vicenza, Italy
www.vicenzaoro.org
6-8 JULY
JAA Brisbane Jewellery Fair
Brisbane, Australia
ww.jaa.com.au
12-15 OCT
Singapore Jewellery & Gem Fair
Singapore, Singapore
www.jewellerynetasia.com
142
Show
Diary
18-21 JULY
Singapore International Jewellery Show
Singapore, Singapore
29-31 JULY
JA New York
New York, USA
www.nationaljeweler.com
22-25 JAN
International Jewellery Tokyo
Tokyo, Japan
www.ijt.jp
6-8 OCT
Delhi Jewellery and Gem Fair
Delhi, India
www.jewelleryfair.in/delhi
June 2013
July 2013
20-24 JAN
Salon International del a Haute Horlogerie
(SIHH)
Geneva, Switzerland
www.sihh.org
October 2013
31 MAY - 3 JUN
Vicenza Oro Italian Club
Las Vegas, USA
www.vicenzaoro.org
4-7 DEC
Dubai International Jewellery Week
Dubai, UAW
www.jewelleryshow.com
18-23 JAN
Vicenza Oro Winter, T-Gold
Vicenza, Italy
www.vicenzafair.com
13-17 SEP
HK Jewellery and Watch Fair
Hong Kong, China
www.jewellerynetasia.com
31 MAY - 3 JUN
JCK Las Vegas
Las Vegas, USA
Lasvegas.jckonline.com
December 2013
January 2014
8-12 SEP
Vicenza Oro Fall
Vicenza, Italy
www.vincezaoro.org
May 2013
20-23 JUN
Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair
Hong Kong, China
www.jewellerynetasia.com
1-3 SEP
JAA International Jewellery Fair
Sydney, Australia
www.jaa.com.au
JEWEL BOX
DANTE’S DESIGN
by Emilie Yabut-Razon
Swiss artist Dante Rubli presents a unique collectible, a
sculpture of the legendary Lamborghini Miura in 24k gold.
The piece was exhibited at the Abu Dhabi Formula 1 Grand
Prix in November, and only 50 pieces will be made, either in
solid 24k gold (USD104,000) or a silver base finished with
24k gold (USD52,000). Each piece comes with a piano black
lacquered case. This is the fourth in the award-winning
artist’s series depicting iconic sports cars, which includes the
Ferrari 250 GTO and the Aston Martin DB5.
Gilded
Racer
144