July - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

Master Gardener Newsletter
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•
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New Mexico State University
Cooperative Extension Service
U.S. Department of Agriculture
College of Agricultural, Consumer &
Environmental Sciences
Doña Ana County Extension Office
530 North Church Street
Las Cruces, NM 88001
Phone: (575) 525-6649 Fax: (575) 525-6652
Editor: Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener
Newsletters can be downloaded at the NMSU website: http://aces.nmsu.edu/damg
e July 2010 f
Volume 11, Issue #7
Plant-of-the-Month
AFGHAN / ELDARICA PINE
Page
Contents:
• Plant-of-the-Month
Next Month: Lavender
• Hotline Client Data
1-5
The Afghan Pine (pinus eldarica) is also known as the
Desert Pine, Mondell or Mondale Pine, Goldwater Pine,
Elder Pine, the Lone Star Christmas tree and Eldarica
Pine among other names, but the most widely accepted
name is the Eldarica Pine. This plant has the following
characteristics:
h Ranges in height from 30 to 60 ft, but can reach 90 feet
and can spread to 25-30 feet in width.
h Evergreen with an upright and pyramidal shape with
dark green foliage; open and airy as compared with
other trees.
h Symmetrical pine tree that becomes somewhat
rounded with age; grows in a natural Christmas tree
shape without pruning.
1
• Lunch & Learn Presentation
5
• You Know You’re Addicted To
Gardening When…..
6
• Great Plants To Attract Butterflies 7
• Southwest Butterfly Species
8-9
• Tips for Butterfly Gardening
• Planning A Butterfly Garden
10
10
• Landscaping With The
Desert Willow
• “Bandera” Rocky Mountain
Penstemon
11
11
• Safe Exercising in the Garden
12
• New Dwarf Butterfly Bush 12 & 18
• Community & School Gardens
13
• 2 New Gardening Books
14
• July Honey-Do List
• Weed Watch (Nutsedge)
15-16
h Its paired medium green needles are 5 to 6 inches long and will require some clean-up.
h Its cones are a true cone shape that are 3 inch oval to oblong reddish-brown in color.
h Its branches are very sturdy, has stiff long needles and gives off a mild and fresh fragrance.
The Afghan/Eldarica Pine which looks similar to a Scotch pine, has become a great choice for
people who want to grow Christmas trees on marginal soils in tough climates. Once established,
this tree is drought, heat and wind tolerant. However, it does not tolerate wet conditions very well.
It can tolerate alkaline soils and prefers sandy to sandy loan soil with a pH range of 6 to 8.5. It is
adaptable to a wide range of conditions. Surface roots are usually not a problem and this pine is
Article Continued on Page 2
not known to be susceptible to Verticillium Wilt.
17-18, 21
April 2010 Hotline Client Data
• Veggies A-Z (Beets)
19-21
• MG Matters
• July MG Birthdays
• Thanks for the Goodies
22-23
23
23
# Total Contacts
# Telephone Calls
# Email Contacts
51
45
6
24
Geographic Area
Deming
Doña Ana
El Paso
Las Cruces
Mesilla Park
Radium Springs
2
1
3
42
1
2
• Hotline Assignments
Deadline for submitting
articles and information for
the August 2010 newsletter
is Monday, July 26th.
Contact Info:
Ann Shine-Ring, Editor
[email protected]
(575) 640-7177
Subject of Inquiry
Animals
5
Disease
2
House Plants 1
Insects
8
Lawns
6
Shrubs
7
Soil
5
Trees
18
Vegetables
6
Water
10
Weeds
2
Misc.
1
May 2010 Hotline Client Data
# Total Contacts
# Telephone Calls
# Email Contacts
76
69
7
Geographic Area
Anthony
Array
Chaparral
El Paso
Hatch
Las Cruces
Mesilla Park
3
2
3
3
1
63
1
Subject of Inquiry
Animals
3
Disease
10
House Plants 2
Insects
11
Lawns
6
Shrubs
8
Soil
4
Trees
12
Vegetables
8
Water
8
Weeds
2
Misc.
2
Thank you to MGs Janie Elliott, Joan Lane & Valice Raffi for compiling the above data.
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. Doña Ana County, NMSU and USDA cooperating.
Master Gardener Newsletter—July 2010
Page 2 of 24
Afghan/Eldarica Pine—Continued from Front Page
Pinus eldarica can survive the coldest of winter climates with annual
temperatures as low as -50° F and needs summer days with high heat.
Full sun is preferred and the availability of water will determine its
growth rate. Unlike most pine trees, it is a fast grower under ideal
conditions—up to 7 ft in two years. The Afghan/Eldarica Pine will under
good growing conditions survive and prosper between 15 and 20 years.
Unfortunately, in 2008 Texas arborists estimated its life span at under
10 years and have recommended that it no longer be used in
commercial landscapes in northern Texas because of canker and borer
attacks.
Because of its durability, the Eldarica is also used widely as a multirow or single-row windbreak or shelterbelt tree. These trees make an
excellent windbreak for distances of 200 to 280 ft from any structure. In
addition, this pine planted in windbreaks makes valuable nesting habitat
and breeding areas for upland game and songbirds. In winter, seeds
and fruits of trees and shrubs provide food for non-migratory species.
Unfortunately Pinus eldarica does not attract hummingbirds or nectarfeeding varieties of garden birds. No impressive autumn foliage display
is shown by Pinus eldarica so look for an alternative plant if you are
looking for a tree with pleasing fall leaf properties. This pine is also not
known as a butterfly attracting plant
Eldarica can also be planted as a fine-textured screen and is a
specimen recommended for buffer strips around parking lots or for
median strip plantings in the highway and as a reclamation plant, but it
has no proven urban tolerance. Cultivation or chemical weed control to
reduce competing vegetation will improve planting survival and growth.
Trees should not be over-watered, and soils should be allowed to dry
between irrigations. Among the best pine for much of the low desert it
also thrives near the Pacific Coast and the seashore.
The Afghan/Eldarica Pine prefers elevations below 5,000 feet and is
not recommended north of Socorro although sometimes it’s used in
other areas in somewhat protected environments. Avoid planting in
Southwest areas at elevations of 4,000–8,000 ft. where oaks are
prevalent; the Comandra Blister Rust often kills these pines there.
Origin—The Afghan/Eldarica Pine, a desert-loving conifer, was first
observed some 2,500 years ago in the desert regions of the Middle
East in a corner of southern Russia near the Caspian Sea. About 500
B.C., Persian nobility used the Eldarica Pine to create forested gardens
where few other plants could even survive. It was so prized that
commoners were forbidden ownership of the tree—from which comes
its name—"The Tree of Royalty."
Tree Care Summary: Eldarica Pine
Description: Large evergreen, 30-50 ft. high, 25-30 ft. wide,
rapid growth when young. Upright or pyramidal, dense form.
USDA zones 10-13.
Site Location: Thrives in heat, drought, wind, indifferent soil.
One of the best low desert pines. Good for wind or shade
buffer. Water until established; then infrequently, but deep.
Avoid planting lone tree in yard where it will dwarf other
structures.
Needles: In pairs, 5-6 in. long, dark green. Will require some
needle clean-up.
Flower: Flower yellow, inconspicuous. Cones 5-6 in. oval to
oblong, reddish to yellow brown, which open in third year.
Winged seeds are wind-dispersed.
Trunk: Single, dominant trunk up to 3-in. diameter. Bark is
orange-red, thick, deeply fissured at base, flaky in upper
canopy.
Pests: Host to sap-sucking aphids which do little harm to tree,
but tree will secret excessive honeydew onto yard and objects
below. The Southwestern Pine Tip Moth may damage some
twigs. Other pests could be Diplodia, Cotton/Texas Root Rot,
Chalcid Wasp, bark beetles, pine tree scale, etc.
Pruning Needs: Little, if any pruning is required. Lift canopy
depending on purpose of tree as ornamental or buffer.
Branches do not droop. Use a hand or hedge shear to keep
the tree to the desired shape. Prune in May or September but
only if needed
SOURCES: Please see Page 5 for the list of all sources
of information used in the compilation of this article.
(Research and compilation of sources for this article
provided by Ann Shine-Ring, Certified Master Gardener.)
Afghan/Eldarica Pine—Continued from Page 2
Introduction to the Southwest—The Afghan/Eldarica Pine was first
introduced to the southwestern U.S. from Asia in the fall of 1961. The
U.S. Dept. of Agriculture brought five pounds of Pinus eldarica seed
from Afghanistan and distributed it to several universities to research the
tree’s adaptability. This pine tree is now found in landscapes throughout
California, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.
Since that time, many County Extension horticulturists have
recommended the planting of Eldaricas as living Christmas trees for the
southwest area's alkaline soils. Time has proven this to be a horrible
recommendation because only after 10 years when the tree is large and
expensive to remove does it begin to deteriorate and eventually die. The
Texas Forest Service states that, "In Central Texas, the major problem
with Afghan pines is that people over water and over fertilize. Because
Afghans grow in approximately 20 inches of annual rainfall, or
approximately two-thirds of this area's rainfall, they never need to be
watered here. Therefore, if you want to grow Afghan pines, find the
hottest, driest place, water twice after planting, and then never water
again, especially by a sprinkler. The quickest way to kill an Afghan (pine)
is to irrigate and grow grass next to them”.
Some nurseries are providing a public service by not selling Afghan
pines. If you want to purchase a living container-grown Christmas tree
for your landscape, it is recommended that you choose from Italian
Stone Pine, Cedrus Deodora (Deodar or Himalayan Cedar), Aleppo
Pine, or Blue Point Juniper only.
Chalcid Wasp
Wasp Pits To Tree Bark
PESTS:
Chalcid Wasp—In the spring of 2008, Texas Forest Service Urban
Forester, Oscar Mestas, found dying Afghan pines in El Paso. Subsequent surveys have found dying Afghan pines in several other
communities in west Texas as well as southern New Mexico. All the
dying trees were found to have been infected by an insect, a tiny Chalcid
wasp, probably Eurytoma species, family Eurytomidae. This infestation
was centered within small pits under the tree’s bark (shown above). The
only trees that appeared to be affected by this wasp were Afghan pines.
(Be sure to see Page 5. Mr. Mestas will be this month’s presenter at the
July 15th Lunch & Learn Presentation).
These pines appear to be susceptible to the wasp’s infestation
regardless of age. In younger trees the larvae are usually found on the
smooth bark on the tree’s main trunk in the top 1/3 of the crown, while in
older trees the infestation was found primarily in the branches and twigs
in the upper crown. Multiple attacks from the wasp stress the trees and
severe infestation may cause the trees to die.
The wasp’s larvae construct pits in the tree’s xylem (bark). The pines
appear to have been infested by the wasp over many years as
evidenced by old pits covered by new wood. Mestas suggests that
multiple wasp attacks kill the smaller twigs and branches, stressing the
tree. Infested pines can survive low-density attacks but severely infested
trees may eventually die. Further, Mestas believes that unspecified
environmental factors could be influencing the Chalcid wasp attacks.
Page 3 of 24
PESTS-Continued
Southwestern Pine Tip Moth—The Southwestern Pine
Tip Moth, (Rhyacionia neomexicana) injures young
ponderosa pines in the Southwest, central Rockies, and the
Midwestern plains. Larvae feed on and destroy new,
expanding shoots, often seriously reducing terminal growth
of both naturally regenerated and planted pines. The tip
moth is especially damaging to trees on reseeded and
planted burns in Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado. It can
cause damage to the twigs of your Eldarica Pine.
Southwestern Pine Tip Moth
This moth has been found in Arizona, New Mexico,
California, Colorado, Utah, Nebraska, southern Montana,
and southwestern North Dakota. It probably occurs
throughout the interior range of ponderosa pine which is the
moth’s principal host plant. Other species of pines are
attacked in Christmas tree plantations and in ornamental
plantings. Plantings of several pines have been damaged
(i.e., Scotch, Jack and Austrian), most susceptible pines
being only 6-8 ft tall. Seedlings may be attacked the same
year they are planted. While the incidence of this moth
attack the Eldarica Pine is low, if this pine is stressed and is
located near ponderosa pines, it may be venerable. The
Texas Forest Service has recommended foliar spray for an
immediate effect control of this moth but these sprays must
be applied all season long. Systemic soil application can
protect seedlings for up to 2 years after application, but
these require adequate soil moisture and take time for trees
to uptake the chemicals.
Pine Tree Windbreak Killed By Diplodia Pinea
Diplodia Pinea (Tip Blight Fungus)—The Afghan/Eldarica
Pine is one of the most popular pine trees in our region,
however it's also become a target for Diplodia pinea. If your
Eldarica is dying from the base up and inside out on the
branches, then it probably has Diplodia and can be
considered a "goner". " A look at the trees in our area may
reveal several declining Eldaricas, however, pine tree
decline could also be caused by a number of factors, such
as drought stress, herbicide damage or even over-watering.
So, this perfect pine may not be invincible.
Diplodia pinea is found worldwide and in North America it
causes shoot blight and stem canker of conifers in
Christmas tree plantations, windbreaks and ornamental
plantings.
Afghan/Eldarica Pine—Continued from Page 3
PESTS-Continued
Diplodia usually attacks trees stressed by one or more of the following
factors, 1) poor site location, 2) drought, 3) hail or snow damage, 4)
mechanical wounds, and 5) insect activity. Diplodia kills trees by yearly
killing new foliage or by initiating girdling stem cankers on stressed
trees. Nursery seedlings are usually killed in the first year of infection.
Older and drought-stressed Eldaricas appear to be more susceptible
to Tip Blight than younger and well-managed trees. This fungus spreads
during rainy periods and it causes dieback of new growth. The long-lived
fungus is present year around in leaf sheaths, dead needles, twigs and
pinecones either on the tree or on the ground. Once this fungus is
introduced it cannot be removed—it can only be managed. Spores are
spread by wind, splashing rain, irrigation water, animals and pruning
equipment. Cankers can develop after a tree becomes infected, which
leads to oozing sap.
Tip Blight can be reduced by: 1) pruning trees when conditions are
dry, 2) disinfecting pruning equipment, 3) removing dead plant materials
including pine cones, 4) spraying a bordeaux mixture or copper
fungicides beginning at "green up" until the weather is dry to suppress
spore production, and 5) improving irrigation if trees are not getting
enough water but be cautious about over-watering.
The best control for Diplodia is prevention. Avoid planting highly
susceptible conifer species where Diplodia has been a problem. Native
species are more susceptible to infection when planted on poor sites or
subjected to other stresses. Trees planted on the best sites will be more
vigorous and if wounded (i.e. logging wounds) their wounds will heal
more quickly. To avoid transferring Diplodia spores to healthy trees, do
not shear infected Christmas trees while wet.
Cotton (Texas) Root Rot—The Afghan/Eldarica Pine is moderately
susceptible to Cotton (Texas) Root Rot caused by the soil borne fungus,
Phymatotrichopsis omnivora (Phymatotrichum omnivorum). Infected
trees turn a dull green and die slowly from late spring through early fall.
Once symptoms appear, roots are rotted and can no longer keep up with
the water demand of the plant. However, most pines are considered
only slightly susceptible to Texas Root Rot, and in Arizona there are only
a few records of this disease.
Comandra Blister Rust—This disease of pines is caused by the
fungus, Cronartium comandrae. In Arizona, it is a severe disease of
Pinus eldarica which is an introduced pine species. Comandra is
indigenous to Arizona and the natural host is the ponderosa pine. This
fungus is not a problem on mature trees but may cause death in very
young trees. Since both hosts are required for the fungus to complete its
life cycle, Comandra is problematic only in areas where Pinus eldarica
and Comandra grow in close proximity to one another.
There is no effective control for Comandra. This disease is known to
occur in the Prescott and Sedona areas of Arizona where both hosts are
present, but is only rarely observed on its native host in other parts of
Arizona. Infected trees should be replaced with non-susceptible native
trees. Many five-needle pines are subject to this fungus (a bark disease
that can be fatal) when grown in the vicinity of currants or gooseberries.
Other Pest Problems—The Afghan/Eldarica Pine will also have to be
watched for bark aphids or mites, bark beetles, pine needle scale, etc. If
you notice any of these pests, spray them immediately with an
appropriate insecticide. Also, like all pines, Pinus eldarica are vulnerable
to air pollution which causes abnormal needle drop and poor growth and
may even kill trees. Pines are also subject to a number of diseases and
pests, but healthy, well-grown plants will usually maintain their vigor with
comparatively little attention.
Page 4 of 24
Planting Seeds Instructions
Scarification: Soak in water, let stand 24-36 hours.
Stratification: Cold stratify for 30 days.
Germination: Sow seed 1/4" deep, tamp soil, and mulch the
seed bed. Can also be sown in fall for spring
germination.
Other:
Can also be soaked for 48 hours, change
water each day, then plant.
Planting an Afghan/Eldarica Pine Tree
First of all, you will need, 1) insecticide (optional), 2) shovel
or spade, 3) water and hose, 4) sandy or sandy loam soil,
and 5) general purpose fertilizer 3-1-2.
Steps To Planting Your Eldarica
1. Locate the place where you want your Eldarica to grow.
The ideal place will have full sun and well-draining soil. Be
sure that this location has plenty of room to accommodate
a fully-grown tree (up to 50 ft. tall and up to 25 ft. wide).
2. Dig a hole that is double the width and height of the root
ball or container that your Eldarica is growing in. With the
tip of your spade or shovel, loosen the dirt at the bottom of
the hole to help improve drainage.
3. Fill the hole with water. Allow the water to drain away
naturally while you proceed with the next step.
4. Mix equal amounts of soil and sandy loam soil. The
Eldarica grows better in sandy loam soil.
5. Remove the tree from its container. If you have trouble
removing the pot, simply cut the pot with a sharp knife.
Exercise caution so you don't cut too deep and damage
the tree’s roots.
6. Add some of the amended soil back into the hole, so that
when you place the root ball inside, the top of the root ball
will be level with the ground. When you have it right,
backfill the amended soil around the root ball. Tamp the
soil as you go to remove air holes.
7. Water the tree thoroughly. For the first month, water it
once, every other day. After that, gradually decrease the
watering to once a week for the first year.
Fertilizer Tips & Warnings
Use a general-purpose fertilizer with a NPK ratio of 3-1-2.
Apply it according to package directions once every spring
and fall. Almost all plants grown in gardens need to be fed
using fertilizer in order to see them at their best.
Be sure to watch out for insects infesting your tree
especially during the first few years of planting it. The
Eldarica is most susceptible to bark aphids and mites. You
can spray the tree with horticultural oil (for example, use an
ultra fine spray of Sun Spray oil) or an appropriate insecticide
to get rid of these pests.
Summary
The unfortunate fact is that the Afghan/Eldarica Pine has
been over-planted, which is always a danger. One pest can
move into an area and wipe out a single species, which is
why a mix of different tree species in a community or
landscape is less vulnerable to being wiped out. Also,
considering other tree species also will help. J
Information Sources for this Article Are Listed on Page 5
Page 5 of 24
BRANIGAN MEMORIAL LIBRARY
“LUNCH & LEARN”
PRESENTATION
Date:
Time:
Place:
Sources: Plant-of-the-Month
• Afghan Pine Chalcid in Forest Health Highlights 2008, Texas Forest Service
• Afghan Pine Pests New and Old, Sun Country Landscape Conference, 2008,
Texas Forest Service
• Afghan Pine, Mondell Pine, on Desert Tropicals.com;
Link: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Pinaceae/Pinus_eldarica.html
• Afghan Pine/Pinus Eldarica, on DATreeStore.com;
Link: http://www.datreestore.com/afpipiel.html
• Common Conifers in New Mexico Landscapes, Bob Cain, NMSU Extension Forest
Entomologist
• Coniferous Trees, on Gardening From the Ground Up;
Link: http://gardeningfromthegroundup.us/Coniferous%20Trees.htm
• Diseases of pine ( Pinus eldarica ) in Arizona, University of Arizona Plant
Pathology, Feb. 10, 2010;
Link: http://ag.arizona.edu/plp/plpext/diseases/trees/pine/pinepo.html
• Eldarica Pine (Mondell), Pinus eldarica (Afgan), on AV Tree Farm;
Link: http://www.avtreefarm.com/files/elderica.htm
• How To Identify and Control Diplodia Shoot Blight, Collar Rot, and Canker of
Conifers, USDA Forest Service, North Central Research Station, 1983
• How To Plant Eldarica Pine Trees, by Gail Delaney on eHow.com; Link:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6503863_plant-eldarica-pine-trees.html
• How To Plant Eldarica Pine Trees, on GardenGuides.com
• Landscaping with Native Plants of the Southwest (2007), George Oxford Miller,
Voyajeur Press
• Pinus eldaria, Mondell Pine Fact Sheet ST-462, U.S. Forest Service, E. Gillman &
D. Watson, Oct. 1994
• Pinus Eldarica | Afghanistan Pine | Tree, on Plant Supplies.com;
Link: http://www.plant-supplies.com/plants/pinuseldarica.htm
• Pinus Eldarica on SunsetPlantFinder;
Link:http://plantfinder.sunset.com/sunset/plantdetails.jsp;jsessionid=B60855AFCE6
9502375DF8350F7F907CC?id=2193
• Pinus Eldarica, on CrescentBloom.com;
Link: http://www.crescentbloom.com/plants/specimen/pi/Pinus%20eldarica.htm
• Plant Files: Afghan Pine, Eldar Pine, Mondell Pine, Mondale Pine (Pinus eldarica)
on Dave’s Garden; Link: http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/55416/
• Popular Afghan Pine Is Susceptible To Tip Blight Fungus, by Deborah Benge
Frost, Midland Reporter-Telegram, 6/18/09
• Short-Lived Christmas Trees, on PlantAnswers.com;
Link: http://www.plantanswers.com/short_lived_trees.htm
• Southwestern Pine Tip Moth, Forest Insect & Disease Leaflet No. 58, U.S. Dept. of
Agriculture Forest Service.
• Tree Care Summary: Mondell or Afghan Pine/Pinus eldarica, Doña Ana County
Master Gardeners, 2009
• Tree of the Month: Eldarica Pine in Arbor News, Feb. 2008;
Link: http://www.treeconsult.com/ArborNews/Feb2008.pdf
Thursday, July 15
12:00-1:00 p.m.
Branigan Memorial Library
Location: Upstairs in the new
Roadrunner Meeting Room
Speaker: Oscar Mestas, Regional Urban
Forester, Texas Forest Service
Topic:
AFGHAN PINE PESTS:
NEW & OLD
Synopsis: Is it the Pine Tip moth or diplodia
pinea fungus? How do you tell the
difference? Why does my pine tree have all
those bumps and sap on its branches?
Jeff Anderson has approved a one-hour
education credit for attending this
presentation. Attendance at this
presentation is strongly recommended to
MGs who work our Hotline.
Information provided by
Sylvia Hacker, Certified Master Gardener
Seed/Plant Exchange Suggestion
Hope Movsesian, Certified Master
Gardener, has suggested that we do a
seed exchange at our monthly meetings.
Anyone with seeds, bulbs, or extra
plants to share is encouraged to bring
them to our next monthly meeting.
Page 6 of 24
You Know You're Addicted to Gardening When...
(aka You Know You’re a Master Gardener When…)
Author Unknown
Your neighbors recognize you in your pajamas, rubber clogs and a cup of coffee.
You grab other people's banana peels, coffee grinds, apple cores, etc. for your compost pile.
You have to wash your hair to get your fingernails clean.
All your neighbors come and ask you questions.
You know the temperature of your compost every day.
You buy a bigger truck so that you can haul more mulch.
You enjoy crushing Japanese beetles because you like the sound that it makes.
Your boss makes "taking care of the office plants" an official part of your job description.
Everything you touch turns to "fertilizer".
Your non-gardening spouse becomes conversant in botanical names.
You find yourself feeling leaves, flowers and trunks of trees wherever you go, even at funerals.
You dumpster-dive for discarded bulbs after commercial landscapers remove them to plant annuals.
You plan vacation trips around the locations of botanical gardens, arboreta, historic gardens, etc.
You sneak home a seven-foot Japanese Maple and wonder if your spouse will notice.
When considering your budget, plants are more important than groceries.
You always carry a shovel, bottled water and a plastic bag in your trunk as emergency tools.
You appreciate your Master Gardener badge more than your jewelry.
You talk "dirt" at baseball practice.
You spend more time chopping your kitchen greens for the compost pile than for cooking.
You like the smell of horse manure better than Estee Lauder.
You rejoice in rain...even after ten straight days of it.
You have pride in how bad your hands look.
You have a decorative compost container on your kitchen counter.
You can give away plants easily, but compost is another thing.
Soil test results actually mean something.
You understand what IPM means and are happy about it
You'd rather go to a nursery to shop than a clothes store.
You know that Sevin is not a number.
You take every single person who enters your house on a "garden tour".
You look at your child's sandbox and see a raised bed.
You ask for tools for Christmas, Mother/Father's day, your Birthday and any other occasion you can think of.
You can't bear to thin seedlings and throw them away.
You scold total strangers who don't take care of their potted plants.
You know how many bags of fertilizer/potting soil,/mulch your car will hold.
You drive around the neighborhood hoping to score extra bags of leaves for your compost pile.
Your preferred reading matter is seed catalogs.
And last but not least: You know that the four seasons are:
√ Planning the Garden
√ Preparing the Garden
√ Gardening
~and~
√ Preparing and Planning for the next Garden
Source Link: http://gardeningjones.com/blog/?p=381
(Website: Gardening Jones: Information, Tips and Recipes From a Self-Proclaimed Gardening Addict)
Thank you to Nancy DeLouise for contributing this very funny and all too true article.
Page 7 of 24
GREAT PLANTS FOR ATTRACTING BUTTERFLIES
Excerpt from Plants to Attract Butterflies to Your Backyard, in Desert Connections, Tucson Botanical Gardens
Butterflies are happy to come to our backyards if we provide what they need. Some things to consider in making plant choices are that
nectar plants (flowers) attract a wide variety of butterflies, and that larval food plants attract very specific kinds of butterflies seeking
plants on which to lay eggs and that will nourish the caterpillars.
Since many common butterflies are on the wing throughout the year in our area—as long as it isn’t too cold or hot and dry—we can
use different flowering plants to provide nectar throughout the year. In late fall, mountain marigold and rabbitbrush robe themselves in
golden heads attracting a host of species. During the spring, patches of wildflowers come alive with butterflies. Late summer flowering
shrubs include red bird of paradise, butterfly bush, Mexican sunflower, lantana, desert lavender, and bee-brush; perennials include
desert verbena, butterfly mist, floss-flower, and native passion vine. Strategic plantings or massing of these plants will fill a garden with a
wide variety of butterflies.
Some caterpillar food plants make excellent background plantings, screens, or spots of greenery. Desert hackberry, a tall native shrub
of desert washes is the food plant of the Empress Leilia, and the American Snout. Fern acacia, a tropical-looking, low native shrub that
makes a soft accent near a patio or pool, is also the food plant of the Acacia Skipper, and the Mexican Yellow.
Ornamentals
Agapanthus
Agastache
Aster
Beebalm
Black-Eyed Susan
Blackfoot Daisy
Blue Mist
Bluebonnet
Butterfly weed
Cape Honeysuckle
Carolina Jessamine
Chrysanthemum
Columbine
Coneflower
Coreopsis
Cosmos
Dame’s Rocket
Daylily
Delphinium
Dianthus
Flame Acanthus
Gaillardia
Gaura
Globe Amaranth
Goldenrod
Hairy Wedelia
Heliotrope
Hibiscus
Lantana
Liatris
Mexican Buckeye
Mexican Mint Marigold
Mexican Oregano
Moss Rose
Oregano
Penstemon
Phlox
Purple Coneflower
Rosemary
Salvia
Sea Pink
Sedum
Spirea
Sweet Alyssum
Sweet William
Trailing Lantana
Verbena
Veronica
Wallflower
Yarrow
Zinnia
Shrubs
Baja Fairy Duster
Bee Brush
Bush Dalea
Butterfly Bush
Desert Broom
Desert Lavender
Desert milkweed
Fern Acacia
Flame Honeysuckle
Gay Feather
Honeysuckle
Indigo Bush
Jupiter’s Beard
Trees & Large Shrubs
Canyon Hackberry
Catclaw Acacia
Chaste Tree
Citrus Trees
Desert Hackberry
Feather Bush Tree
Feather Tree
Kidneywood Tree
Mesquite
Mountain Laurel
Tenaza Tree
Sources:
• Butterfly Attracting Plant List, Wildseed Farms Market Center
• Butterfly Plant List, Desert Connections, Tucson Botanical Gardens, 2010
• Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert, Arizona Municipal Water Users Association, 2008
• Plants That Attract Butterflies, Backyard Living Magazine, March 2009
Long-Pod Senna
Mexican Sunflower
Mountain Marigold
Pineleaf milkweed
Rabbitbrush
Red Bird of Paradise
Saltbush
Sweet Bush
Verbena
Wooly Butterfly Bush
Yellow Bird of Paradise
Wolfberry
Page 8 of 24
Butterfly Species Found in the Southwest
Excerpt from Butterfly Gardening, Butterfly Species in the Southwest, on eNature.com;
Link: http://www.enature.com/gardening/butterfly_southwest.asp
(These are some of the common, showy butterflies of this region and the food plant(s) appropriate for caterpillars of each species.)
Family:
Description:
Queen (danaus gillippus)
Nymphhalidae; brush-footed butterflies
Deep fox-brown above and below with black margins and finely lined black veins. Fine white
dots speckle margins
Habitat:
Deserts, coasts, prairies, watercourses, and other places with milkweeds.
Range:
Nevada and Southern California east to Kansas and Texas, around Gulf to Florida and South
Florida and south to South America
Caterpillar Plant: Milkweed (asclepias)
Comments:
Cannot stand cold winters; male Queen possesses brushes, or hair pencils, within the tip of its
abdomen. As courtship begins, these brushes are extended, releasing a compound that
subdues the female during mating.
Family:
Description:
Nymphhalidae; brush-footed butterflies
Salmon-orange with black blotches, black-patterned margins, and broadly black forward tips
with clear white spots.
Habitat:
Anywhere, especially flowery meadows, parks and mountain tops.
Range:
All of North America well into sub-Artic and south to Panama; naturalized in Hawaii.
Caterpillar Plant: Various mallows and thistles
Comments:
Perhaps the most widespred butterfly in the world because of its ability to overwinter. Unlike the
Monarch’s annual round trip outings, the Painted Lady’s movements are one-way.
Painted Lady (vanessa cardui)
Family:
Description:
Sara Orangetip (anthocharis sara)
Pieridae; whies and sulphurs
Male is white, female white or yellow; orange patch new forward tip normally a brilliant redorange, sometimes paler; some populations have black and white barred tip and black
margins outside orange patch.
Habitat:
Aspen woods and meadows in Rockies; desert canyons and arid slopes, mountain roads,
ridges, streamsides, alpine seeps, sea-level pastures, & hay fields; many kinds of sunny
places.
Range:
Coastal southeast; Alaska to Baja, California, north & east to East Rockies at mid-elevations.
Caterpillar Plant: Various mustards
Comments:
Ability to exploit a wide diversity of habitats across broad area. However, it cannot carry on
summer and fall generations as caterpillars are limited to flowers & seedpods for their food.
Gray Hairstreak (strymon melinus)
Family:
Lycaenidae; gossamer-winged butterflies
Description: Deep slate-gray with orange spot on hindwingl female is browner. Bold orange and blue
patches above tail. Abdomen has orange sides.
Habitat:
Open deciduous woods, coastlines, roadsides, chaparral, old fields, parks, vacant lots and
other open spaces.
Range:
British Columbia to Maritimes, and south to Baja, California, Florida, also to Venezuela and
Columbia.
Caterpillar Plant: Various mallows and legumes
Comments: Its caterpillar is known regionally as the “cotton square borer” and has occasionally damaged
commercial bean, hops and cotton crops.
Family:
Lycaenidae; gossamer-winged butterflies
Description: Male uniform light purple to lavender-blue without white inner hindwing margin; female dull violet
with broad brown border and brownish suffusion to bases of forward and hind wings; hindwing
spots iridescent pale blue to silver-colored.
Habitat:
Weedy, open sites; common along watercourses.
Range:
Resident in south Texas to central California; is a summer emigrant to Illinois and Nebraska,
also American Topics.
Caterpillar Plant: Leadwort (plumbago) and wisteria
Comments: Flies northward in summer, flying back in the fall and winter to frost-free strongholds; exploit
ephemeral habitats, such as flats, streambeds, and wastes, where weedy annuals spring up
between frosts and floods.
Marine Blue (leptotes marina)
Page 9 of 24
Butterfly Species Found in the Southwest—Continued From Page 8
Gulf Fritillary (agraulis vanillae)
Pipevile Swallowtail (battus philenor)
Giant Swallowtail (papilio cresphontes)
Two-Tailed Swallowtail
(papilio multicaudata)
Monarch (danaus plexippus)
Family:
Nymphalidae; brush-footed butterflies
Description: Brilliant red-orange above with a few black spots, black network along hingwing border and a
cluster of tiny white spots near forewing costa.
Habitat:
Subtropical forest edges, city gardens, canyons, open sunny areas with abundant flowers.
Range:
San Francisco Bay to Baja, California; resident throughout southern U.S. into Mexico;
emigrates northward into Great Basin, Rockies, Midwest, Great Lakes and mid-Atlantic states.
Caterpillar Plant: Passionflower (passiflora)
Comments: Haunts the Gulf of Mexico and may be seen flying far out over the water; cannot withstand
northern winters.
Family:
Papilionidae; swallowtails
Description: Coal-black to dark gray with brilliant, metallic blue, especially toward the hindwing margin
(male brighter than female); hindwing has row of cream to yellow spots around rim; hindwing
has row of big, bright orange spots curving through blue patch along margin and white
marginal spots.
Habitat:
Open woodlands, canyons, meadows, fields, gardens, streamsides, orchards & roadsides.
Range:
South Ontario and New England south throughout East to Florida; west through Nebraska
and Texas to Arizona and California; north to Oregon, also south into Mexico
Caterpillar Plant: Dutchman’s Pipe (aristolochia)
Comments: Agriculture has caused Pipeviles to spread and extend its range; adult favors honeysuckle,
swamp milkweed, orchids, buddleia, azalea, lilac and thistle; birds avoid this butterfly
because of the host plants of its caterpillar which give it an unpleasant flavor.
Family:
Description: Very large; long dark, spoon-shaped tail which has yellow center; dark brownish-black above
with 2 broad bands of yellow spots converging at tip of forewing; orange spot at corner of
hingwing flanked by blue spot above.
Habitat:
Sunny, open area, forest edges, glades, roads, rivers, and citrus groves.
Range:
South Canada south through U.S. east of Rockies through Mexico; west along border into
Arizona and California; more common in South and south-central states.
Caterpillar Plant: Citruses, Hoptree (ptelea trifolianta) and Prickly Pear (zanthozylum)
Comments: Known as “Orange Dog” by citrus growers, it is sometimes considered a citrus pest and
subjected to massive spraying; capable of flying long distances and often strays into northern
and Midwestern regions.
Family:
Description: Large two tails on each wing; yellow with narrow black stripes; hindwings’ edge above
and below lined with bright blue patches; black border spotted with yellow and orange.
Habitat:
Semiarid canyonland, mid-level mountains and gardens, also moister parts of dry area,
especially canyon bottoms.
Range:
East British Columbia and eastern Washington along Canadain borders to Dakotas; south
to Oklahoma, Texas and throughout California to Baja; also Mexico and Guatamala.
Caterpillar Plant: Chokeberry (prunus virginiana) and Hoptre (ptelea trifolianta)
Comments: Largest western tiger; smaller Three-Tailed Tiger Swallowtail, a Mexican species, rarely
appears in lower Rio Grande Valley of Texas and in Southern Arizona.
Family:
Nymphalidae; brush-footed butterflies
Description: Very large with forewing that is long and drawn out; bright burnt-orange with black veins and
black margins sprinkled with white dots.
Habitat:
On migration, anywhere from alpine summits to cities; when breeding, habitats with
mildweeds, especially in meadows, weedy fields and watercourses. Overwinters in coastal
Monterey pine, Monterey cypress, eucalyptus groves in California and fir forests in Mexican
mountains.
Range:
Nearly all of North America from south of Hudson Bay through South America; absent from
Alaska and Pacific Northwest Coast; established in Hawaiian Islands and Australia.
Caterpillar Plant: Mildweeds (asclepias)
Comments: Flies northward in summer, flying back in the fall and winter to frost-free strongholds; exploit
ephemeral habitats, such as flats, streambeds, and wastes, where weedy annuals spring up
between frosts and floods.
Thank you to Dale Petzold, Certified Master Gardener, for finding this wonderful, informative website.
Page 10 of 24
TIPS FOR BUTTERFLY
GARDENING
Excerpt from Wild About Butterflies,
Tips for Butterfly Gardening on Desert Connections,
Tucson Botanical Gardens
Choose a Warm, Sunny Location
Butterflies are warm-weather fans. Take advantage
of warm southern exposures to prolong flowers of
fall-blooming species.
Plant in Masses
Masses of colorful, fragrant flowers are more likely to
capture the attention of a passing butterfly. One
plant here and there will not be nearly as attractive to
butterflies as five flowering plants grouped together.
Choose Flowers That Are Flat-Topped or Clustered
and Have Short Flower Tubes
Butterflies like landing pads where they can sit
comfortably to sip nectar.
Choose Flowers in the Yellow, Orange, Red and
Pink Range
These are preferred by butterflies, but they will
also visit flowers of other colors.
Plant with Different Blooming Periods in Mind
Butterflies may be on the wing year round in our
area.
Include Larval Food Plants for Different Species
For a truly effective butterfly garden, you need to
provide places for the adults to lay eggs and leaves
for the caterpillars to eat.
Provide Windbreaks
The butterflies won’t be buffeted by the wind and
won’t have to expend extra energy as they fly about
looking for food and mates.
Provide Shade
Even warn-weather creatures need some shade,
particularly when temperatures rise above 95
degrees.
Provide Flat Stones or Rocks
Butterflies like places to rest and places to bask in
the sun.
Provide Areas of Damp Soil
Male butterflies like to take in the salts and nutrients
from muddy soils.
Don’t Use Herbicides or Pesticides
Herbicides may kill the larval food plants; pesticides
may kill both the caterpillars and adults. Q
PLANNING A BUTTERFLY GARDEN
Excerpt from Plan a Butterfly Garden by Paul deMarrais in Horticulture, May 2009
Watching butterflies flit about our gardens all season long always inspires us.
Here are some suggestions on how to appropriately plant our gardens to
support all stages of a butterfly’s life cycle.
Hosting Caterpillars. In order to host butterflies each summer, it’s imperative
the garden offers food plants for the spring and summer caterpillars that will
morph into those butterflies. It must also contain host plants for the larvae. Each
species has a specific food plant or family of plants upon which they feed. Most
of the caterpillars of familiar butterflies feed on trees or on plants that are
categorized as weeds. By allowing some border areas to remain natural we can
easily provide necessary food plants for the future butterflies.
Try to keep a number of small wild cherry (Prunus) seedlings in your yard to
provide food for the caterpillars that will be reborn as red spotted purples. Elm
(Ulmus) and hackberry (Celtis) seedlings also spring up, and rather than
remove them, keep them pruned back. Their fresh growth will attract red spotted
purple butterflies to lay eggs on them.
Many herbs are excellent food sources for caterpillars. Female black
swallowtails lay eggs on parsley, fennel, dill and rue (Ruta graveolens). Giant
swallowtail larvae also feed on rue. Orange, swamp and tropical milkweeds
(Asclepias) attract female monarch butterflies to lay eggs; their caterpillars will
feed well. Passionflower vine (Passiflora incarnata) is a lovely climbing native
plant with spectacular complex flowers that bloom in midsummer. It’s a food
plant for gulf and variegated fritillary larvae.
Feeding Butterflies. Adult butterflies require nectar plants for food to give them
the energy necessary for flight. Though many flowers contain nectar for
butterflies, there are a few superstar performers. In late August, a lush butterfly
bush (Buddleia davidii), full of blossoms and great spangled fritillaries and
monarch butterflies, offers a list to our tired gardening spirits. We can watch
those winged wonders while we wait for the cooler, colorful days of autumn.
Butterfly bush is available in a variety of colors, provides dozens of fragrant
blooms from July through fall and is the queen of all nectar plants. It’s a must for
the butterfly garden. (See Pages 12 & 18, New Dwarf Butterfly Bush)
The butterfly garden should also include the tough, drought-tolerant bloom of
the coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), with cultivars of many colors. It will invite
the great spangled fritillary. Drought-tolerant Brazilian verbena (Verbena
bonariensis) brings grace to the garden with its long-stemmed purple flowers.
Cut it back after the first wave of flowers to encourage rebloom later in the
season. Many types of butterflies enjoy this overlooked super performer.
To invite eager swarms of butterflies into your yard, plant butterfly milkweed
(Asclepias tuberosa). It’s easily grown from seed and has become a favorite at
garden centers in recent years. And don’t forget the familiar zinnia (Zinnia
angustifolia). It’s a favorite for butterflies of all types, and it gives your garden a
much-needed dose of wonderful late-summer color. Q
.
—Landscaping With the Desert Willow—
NMSU, Author: Ronald Hooks, Guide H-702, August 1983
Hooks states that the Desert Willow or Desert Catalpa is a member of the
trumpet-creeper family (bignonia). It is a native plant that is widely used for
landscaping our homes, parks and highways. The Desert Willow is a shrub
or small tree that rarely grows more than 30 ft. in height.
Its peak bloom period occurs from May through June, however, blooming
does continue through August if adequate moisture is available.
The range of the Desert Willow is from central Texas to southern
California and from Chihuahua, Mexico to Albuquerque. It occurs at
elevations of 1,500 to 5,000 ft. along washes and arroyos of porous or sandy
soil. However, it has been successfully grown above 7,000 ft. in New Mexico
and at lower elevations in Utah and Nevada.
Hooks discusses how the Indians and Spanish settlers used the Desert
Willow in a variety of ways. He also discusses the ornamental value of this
plant.
Other sections of this interesting article discuss:
• Seed Propagation (Seed Collection & Planting)
• Asexual Propagation (Cuttings & Layering)
• Transplanting & Care
This research article is no longer available online at NMSU but it is part of
the MG Hotline library and a copy can be obtained. Its Library location is
Blue Binder #2, Plants Section.
You can also find an article on Landscaping with the Desert Willow online
that was written by Darrell Sullivan on GrowIt.com. It is an exact copy of
Hooks’ article.
Link: http://www.growit.com/bin/KnowArt.exe?MyKnow=215
Other excellent sources of information on the Desert Willow include:
Y Desert Willow Landscape Plants, on GardenGuides.com
Link: http://www.gardenguides.com/search?q=desert+willow&filter=all
This article covers the flowers of the Desert Willow: pink-flowered, purpleflowered and other flower colors.
Y Desert Willow on eHow.com
Link: http://www.ehow.com/desert-willow/
This website addresses many subjects related to the Desert Willow:
1) How to transplant a Desert Willow, 2) how to prune a Desert Willow,
3) how to root a Desert Willow, 4) how to plant a Desert Willow, 5) how to
propagate a Desert Willow, 6) how to germinate Desert Willow seeds,
7) how to care for a Desert Willow Tree, and 8) about Desert Willow Trees
Y http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/aridplants/Chilopsis_linearis.html
(University of Arizona, Pima County Cooperative Extension, Arizona
Master Gardeners).
This website covers the characteristics of the Desert Willow plant.
Page 11 of 24
Bandera Rocky Mountain Penstemon
NMSU Circular 472, Revised by Curtis Smith, Nov. 2009
This is a newly revised circular that was recently
added to the MG Hotline Library. Dr. Smith states that
this penstemon is a herbaceous, perennial plant that is
useful for beautification, soil stabilization, and
ornamental landscaping. He also states that it helps to
diversify wildlife diets.
Topics Covered:
Origin & Description
Suitability
Establishment & Propagation
Availability
Figure 2 in the article shows the area of adaptation for
the Bandera Rocky Mountain penstemon. Smith states
that, “the natural range of the Rocky Mountain
penstemon is central and northern New Mexico,
Colorado, southern Wyoming, Utah and northeastern
Arizona. It is found on rocky to sandy loam soils at
elevations of 6,000 to 11,000 ft…” as well as under
cultivation in gardens and lawns where it can be grown
at lower elevations.
Dr. Smith states that few disease or insect problems
have been found to be associated with this plant.
However, Fusarium Wilt has been observed on Bandera
growing on irrigated sandy loam. Occasionally, scale
insects will attack these plants that have low vigor
This article is available online at:
Link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_circulars/CR-472.pdf
Additional information on the Bandera Rocky Mountain
Penstemon can also be found at:
Rocky Mountain Penstemon, USDA Plant Guide at Link:
plants.usda.gov/plantguide/doc/pg_pest2.
Rocky Mountain Penstemon, at GardenGuides.com
Link: http://www.gardenguides.com/taxonomy/rockymountain-penstemon-penstemon-strictus/
This website article provides a thorough review of the
following: 1) uses of this plant, 2) general characteristics,
3) required growing conditions, 4) cultivation and care,
and 5) general upkeep and control.
Page 12 of 24
Safe Exercising in Your Gardening
Excerpt from “Safe Gardening” in Amer. Chiropractic Assn. News, April 2010*
Article Submitted by Mona Nelson, Certified Master Gardener
As our weather has warmed up, many of us will spend much more time
outside tending plants, mowing the lawn and pulling weeds. Gardening can
provide a great workout, but with all the bending, twisting, reaching and pulling,
you may not be ready for exercise of the garden variety. Here are some tips for
safe exercising to keep you and your garden in shape.
Prepare for Gardening. Stretch your muscles before reaching for your
gardening tools. The back, upper legs, shoulders, and wrists are all major
muscle groups affected when using your green thumb. Treat gardening as an
athletic event. A warm-up and cool-down period is as important in gardening as
it is for any other physical activity. To warm up, walk for 5-10 minutes to get
your heart rate up.
Perform Stretches. Before stretching for any activity, breathe in and out, slowly
and rhythmically; do not bounce or jerk your body, and stretch as far and as
comfortably as you can. Do not follow the “no pain, no gain” rule. Stretching
should not be painful.
• While sitting, prop your heel on a stool or step, keeping the knees straight.
Lean forward until you feel a stretch in the back of the thigh, or the hamstring
muscle. Hold this position for 15 seconds. Do this once more and repeat with
the other leg.
• Stand up, balance yourself, and grab the front of your ankle from behind. Pull
your heel towards your buttocks and hold the position for 15 seconds. Do this
again and repeat with the other leg.
• While standing, weave your fingers together above your head with the palms
up. Lean to one side for 10 seconds, then to the other. Repeat this stretch three
times.
• Do the "hug your best friend" exercise. Wrap your arms around yourself and
rotate to one side, stretching as far as you can comfortably go. Hold for 10
seconds & reverse. Repeat 2 or 3 times.
• Be aware of your body technique, form and posture while gardening. Kneel,
don't bend, and alternate your stance and movements frequently.
Remember Gardening Ergonomics.
• Use tools, such as shears or clippers with a spring-action, self-opening
feature, to prevent strain on the muscles and joints. Make sure the tools are
well-oiled to open and close easily.
• When lifting potted plants or bags of mulch and dirt, bend your knees and lift
straight up, keeping your back as straight as possible. Use your knees, rather
than the back muscles, to lift, and avoid twisting and turning while lifting.
• Sit while working or take sitting breaks to conserve energy and decrease
stress on your back, knees and hips.
Don’t Ignore the Pain. If you already feel muscle aches and pains and did not
complete the warm-up and cool-down stretches, there are ways to alleviate the
discomfort. Apply a cold pack on the area of pain for the first 48 hours or apply a
heat pack after 48 hours, and consider chiropractic care.
Spinal manipulation can help alleviate the pain due to overuse injuries and
improper gardening techniques. The goal of a doctor of chiropractic is to
manipulate the spine and help stimulate your body's natural healing process.
*This article was provided for your information and is not intended as “medical advice”.
New True Dwarf Butterfly Bush
The Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) has been a garden
mainstay for generations. It can grow up to 6 ft. by
mid-summer and start putting out panicles of
colorful flowers that attract every bee and butterfly
in the yard. Unfortunately, Buddleias have also
been proved to be aggressive and even invasive.
You are going to love the new miniature Lo &
Behold® 'Blue Chip' Buddleia. It has all the charm
of a full size buddleia, but it’s compact enough to
plant in a pot on your patio. It’s deer resistant,
drought tolerance and the only maintenance
besides watering is removing the spent flowers to
encourage more.
Lo & Behold® is intended to become a series, so
there should be more colors introduced in the near
future. It can be planted in USDA Hardiness Zones
5-9, loves full sun, its mature size is 24-36"H x
30"W, its color is lavender blue and it flowers from
mid-summer on.
This is a breakthrough variety of Buddleia with all
the fragrance and butterfly appeal of traditional
varieties but in a small, easy to maintain package.
'Blue Chip' stays under three feet tall without any
pruning, and blooms continuously from mid summer
to frost without deadheading. It is frost tolerant,
non-invasive and very easy to grow. Pruning is
generally not needed, but the bush may be trimmed
in the spring. It's great for perennial gardens and
the growing container garden market. 'Blue Chip'
also makes a fantastic mass planting.
Features
• Attracts Butterflies
• Fragrant Flowers
• Attracts Hummingbirds
• Heat Tolerant
• Deadheading Not Necessary • Deer Resistant
• Low Maintenance
• Drought Tolerant *
*Even drought-tolerant annual and perennial plants
will need water for the first few weeks while they get
established. Shrubs and trees will need to be
watered for the first year after they are planted.
After this, little or no supplemental water will be
necessary when planted in the ground. No plant is
truly drought tolerant in a container; water is
necessary for all plants in containers.
Page 13 of 24
Community & School Gardens Report
By Darrol Shillingburg, Certified Doña Ana County Master Gardener
TO ALL FELLOW MASTER GARDENERS:
In an attempt to inform you about Master Gardener involvement in community and school gardening projects, I will be
including a monthly report in our MG newsletter instead of the spontaneous meeting reports. If you have questions and/or
comments, we can address those during meeting report times or by email if you prefer. You can contact me at
[email protected] and thank you for your continuing interest.
Community Gardening
There is not much new from Community Gardens. I am preparing a lecture on Second Season Gardening for Fairlight
Community Garden on July 6th. The lecture will also be the educational presentation for the July 21st Master Gardener
meeting. So if you want to hear it twice, now you know.
School Gardening
The Community Support Committee for school gardening has completed the draft for a Memorandum of Understanding
between LCPS and CLC. After revisions, modifications and final adoption, it should provide a foundation document to guide
financial and political support as well as volunteer involvement in school gardening projects. They are also working on a
resource catalog for school garden programs, including a list of guest speakers and subjects available for classroom
presentation. As this listing is developed and coordinated with curriculum standards there will be multiple opportunities for
Master Gardeners to develop presentations suitable for different subjects and grade levels. For example, I am working with
Beth Kaime (Conlee Elementary) to develop a presentation and class activity on soil testing for their 5th grade classes. It
could be an excellent entry into soils structure, fertility and biology for young gardeners (and teachers). As the standardized
curriculum and guest speaker lists evolve, I will include those in future school garden reports – with particular focus on
involving Master Gardeners in these educational outreach activities.
The Committee will continue meeting monthly with additional projects carried out by subcommittees. This is an open
community group that would welcome and appreciate your participation. Meetings are the third Wednesday of the month at
1:00pm. Let me know if you wish to participate.
Hermosa Heights Elementary School Garden Project
The low-pressure drip irrigation system is proving itself this summer. All plants in the raised and in-ground beds look
healthy, showing only isolated instances of water stress.
The 2nd graders Pizza Garden with tomatoes, sweet peppers, jalapenos, Serranos and basil, oregano and chives is
blooming and setting fruit on schedule. All of the plants need a general fertilizing – which I will do next week. We are
demonstrating that there are ways to continue school gardens through summer with automatic watering and weekly
monitoring.
We now have soil tests for both the raised and in-ground beds at Hermosa Heights, thanks to Master Gardener funding
for the soil tests. Resolution of salinity, compaction and fertility issues is ongoing. Hopefully, buy fall all planting beds will
reach optimum condition for the next round of garden learning. A write up on the soil tests and recommendations is still in
process.
Community Support
The High Hopes Garden Club asked Master Gardeners for information about community and school garden projects that
they could support financially. After our meeting, the Club is in the process of splitting $720 between one community garden
and one school garden program. Thanks to Dixie and Colette for initiating the funding effort and the fine luncheon meeting –
an excellent model for all future meetings.
Respectfully,
Darrol Shillingburg, Doña Ana County Master Gardener
Page 14 of 24
2G
REAT NNEW
EW G
ARDENING BBOOKS
OOKS
GREAT
GARDENING
THE HOT GARDEN: Landscape Design For the Desert Southwest
By Scott Calhoun (Rio Nuevo Publishers, May 2009)
"Put your desert eyes on," is Scott Calhoun's first advice to
gardeners facing arid Southwestern regions with extreme
climate conditions. Then he shows how to translate the
natural beauty of the region - mountains, canyons, sculptural
succulents and incandescent sky - into gorgeous yet waterthrifty landscape designs that complement existing
architecture as well as the environment that surrounds it.
Spectacular photographs help to tell the tale, showing
flowering plants that are also tough as nails, vivid purple
walls, and cacti with "punk rock hairdos," along with creative
touches drawn from Native American and pop culture.
Gardeners at all levels will find insight, inspiration, tips, and
tricks to help them create and foster beauty in the desert.
100 color photos; 20 b/w illustrations
Source: Rio Nuevo Publishers
HOT POTS: Container Gardening in the Arid Southwest
By Scott Calhoun & Lynn Hassler (Rio Nuevo Publishers, May 2009)
Bring life to your outdoor space: detailed information about
creating a decorative yard, patio, or balcony in arid climates
and discusses the variety of plant options available. Awardwinning author, Scott Calhoun, and local nature expert,
Lynn Hassler, provide a unique approach to container
gardening by creating a title that is specific to the
Southwest region. This publication provides detailed
information about creating a decorative yard, patio, or
balcony in arid climates and discusses the variety of plant
options available—from vegetables and fragrant flowers to
colorful containers that create an atmosphere of tranquility
and attract nature.
90 color illustrations
Source: Tucson Weekly & Amazon.com
Page 15 of 24
Dixie’s Honey-Do List for July
Many of our suggested garden tasks is information coming directly from
Month-by-Month Gardening in the Desert Southwest by Mary Irish (2002).
We wanted you to know that this is an outstanding gardening resource book.
GENERAL: Hopefully the “monsoon” season will start soon but there are no guarantees. Continue life support. Be prepared to harvest
rainwater with buckets placed under down spouts. Also, this is a good time to update your garden journal with notes on plant
performance successes and failures.
ORNAMENTALS
• Plant seeds of pansy, stock, and snapdragon this month for fall transplant. You can still sow seed of cosmos, globe amaranth,
lisianthus (Texas bluebell), marigold and sunflowers. They will grow quickly if kept well watered and will bloom again in late summer.
• Continue to plant summer-flowering native annuals like Arizona poppy, coyote gourd or chinchweed. These plants may germinate with
the onset of our summer monsoons.
• Deadhead flowering plants but stop pinching back chrysanthemums now to allow flower bud formation.
• Roses and other ornamentals may develop brown dried leaf margins. This may be due to heat stress and/or salt burn. Irrigate deeply
to leach salts. Water-soluble fertilizers are salty so water well before and after application.
• This is a good time to propagate new plants for our fall plant sale.
• Provide shade for newly planted succulents, container plants, everything. Water plants in containers everyday. Be sure that the water
drains through the holes. Skip watering if it rains more than 1/2 inch. As temperatures and humidity increase fungal infections may
become a problem. Irrigate early in the day to maximize water uptake and minimize disease.
• Fertilize annuals in pots with a water-soluble formula once this month. Do not over-fertilize if it is very hot. Do not fertilize plants in the
ground.
• Water plants from below to prevent mildew and provide plenty of mulch to reduce water loss.
• Time to order winter annuals from catalogs.
FRUITS, NUTS, CITRUS & SHADE TREES
• Continue with cover sprays to apples and pears but re-read pesticide label directions about when to stop
sprays. Continue zinc sprays to young pecans.
• If citrus trees look chorotic, use a soil probe to check and see if water is being used between waterings. It
is always best to water deeply and less frequently.
• Maintain vigilance against tree pests such as stink bugs, leaf footed bugs, and fruit beetles. All may
damage ripening fruit but remember some damage is tolerable. Cut out the bad spot and enjoy the fruit.
• Be on the look out for signs of peach tree borer damage that is a gummy substance near the base of the
tree. Treat now according to label directions.
• Continue deep watering schedule.
• Do not fertilize any fruit trees this month.
For additional information check out these MG Hotline Library resources:
Establishing Fruit Trees in the Home Orchard (NMSU Guide H-316) Fruit Species & Varieties for Home Orchards (NMSU Guide H-310)
Establishing Shade & Fruit Trees (NMSU Guide H-420)
Minor Small Fruit Crops in NM (NMSU Guide H-326)
VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND HERBS
• Early this month plant Chinese cabbage, cauliflower, and sweet corn. Continue to plant Armenian
cucumber, black-eyed peas, bush beans corn, melon, pinto beans, pumpkin and winter squash after midmonth. Also plant broccoli, cabbage, Swiss chard, collard greens, kohlrabi, and turnips.
• Monitor watering of lavender, rosemary, sages and thyme carefully during the monsoon season. These
herbs enjoy a dry summer, but if temperatures have been exceptionally hot, water deeply to keep them
healthy. Double-check to make sure they get adequate drainage as they will rot easily in hot, wet soil.
• Summer squash may be planted anytime this month.
• Amend soil and prepare fallow beds for fall planting.
Page 16 of 24
Dixie’s Honey-Do List for July-Continued
VEGETABLES, FRUIT AND HERBS—Continued
Home Vegetable Gardening in New Mexico (NMSU Circ. 457)
Ten Steps to a Successful Vegetable Garden (AZ-1435)
Tomatoes-English & Spanish (Blue Binder #2, Vegetable Section) Vegetable Varieties of NM Backyard/Market Gardens (NMSU Circ. 572)
Vegetable Garden Basics (Blue Binder #2, Vegetable Section)
Why Don’t My Tomatoes Set Fruit? (Blue Binder #2, Vegetable Section)
LAWNS/GRASSES
• It may be necessary to raise lawn mower height again.
• Do not fertilize fescues, blue grass, or rye grass.
• If you did not fertilize your warm season grasses last month, then do so now.
• Water lawns deeply to a depth of 8–10 inches.
• Grubworm damage may become obvious with dead patches of grass lifting up like a piece of carpet. Grass
has no roots to hold it down. Treat early this month while larvae are young, near soil surface, and easier to kill.
For additional information check out these MG Hotline Library resource articles:
Bermuda Grass Spring Seeding (NMSU Guide H-506)
Mowing Your Lawn (NMSU Guide H-505)
Care of Established Turf Grass (#2 Blue Binder, Plants Section)
Turf Grasses For New Mexico (NMSU Guide H-508)
Fertilizing Your Lawn (NMSU Guide H-503)
Watering Your Lawn (NMSU Guide H-504)
ROSES
• Watch for symptoms of heat stress: 1) plants with leaves that turn brown and fall off, 2) have flowers
that are small or misshapen and with bleached-out colors, and 3) have dying limbs or canes that crack
or split may be suffering from too much sun and heat.
• Keep your roses deeply watered, mulch heavily and do provide afternoon shade.
• Many roses will lose leaves during the heat of summer, but if you maintain a steady watering schedule,
they will recover once the temperatures cool down.
• Continue to wash off roses every day or two to add extra humidity, keep dust down and to control
spider mites, aphids, and powdery mildew. Aphids can easily be removed by hand, a strong jet of
water or soapy water spray but spray early in the day as you may burn leaves when the sun is out.
Fertilization Guide for Roses (Handout)
Roses in the Garden & Landscape: Cultural Practices and Weeding (UC-7465)
Growing Roses (NMSU Guide H-165)
Roses in the Garden & Landscape: Insect, Mite Pests & Beneficials (UC-7466)
Rose Calendar for Las Cruces & El Paso (Handout) Roses: Diseases and Abiotic Disorders (UC-7463)
CACTI & SUCCULENTS
• Water large cactus, yuccas, ocotillos, and desert spoon at least once a month. Be sure
to water deeply, to a depth of at least 3 feet and in a large radius around the plant.
• Water all other warm-season succulents at least every 3 weeks to a depth of 2-3 feet,
depending on the size of the plant, and in a wide radius around the plant.
• Do not overwater desert-adapted plants. Acacia, dalea, lavender, rosemary and salvia
do not like wet feet.
• Cochineal scale, which looks like a white cottony mass, may become a problem on
cactus. Hose them off frequently.
• Prune only if necessary this month. Old blooming stalks from hesperaloe, agaves, or
yuccas may be pruned any time they are dry and blooming has been completed.
• Do not fertilize succulents planted in the ground. You can fertilize container-grown plants with a water-soluable fertilizer once this
month. Use only low-nitrogen forumulas for succulents, especially agaves and cactus.
Bird of Paradise Bushes (#2 Blue Binder, Plants Section)
Controlling Cholla Cactus (NMSU Guide B-804)
Cacti, Agaves, Yucca and Ocotillo (AZ-1225)
Problems & Pests of Agaves, Aloe, Cactus & Yucca (AZ-1399)
Care of Desert-Adapted Plants (AZ-1048)
MISCELLANEOUS
• Maintain your compost pile by watering and turning it; add mulch and weed-free grass clippings.
Page 17 of 24
WEED WATCH: NUTSEDGE
GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. Nutsedge is a member of the Cyperus genus, with purple (Cyperus rotundus) and yellow (Cyperus
esculentus) nutsedge varieties being the worst of the genus. Both purple and yellow nutsedges are perennial plants and the only plants of
the genus that grow from tubers. Nutsedge is usually found in landscaped and turf areas growing in clumps.
Nutsedges are a problem in lawns because they grow faster, have a more upright growth habit, and are a lighter green color than most
grass species, resulting in a non-uniform turf. In gardens and landscapes, nutsedges will emerge through bark or rock mulches in shrub
plantings and vegetable and flowerbeds throughout the growing season.
Nutsedge seeks out the moist, poorly drained sections of your yard or garden. Its leaves are grass-like and yellow-green, while the spiky
head is purple or yellow. It's a tough weed to control because it grows from tiny tubers, or nutlets, that form on roots. Pull out the roots and
some tubers will stay behind to grow. Although nutsedges resemble grasses and often are referred to as “nutgrass,” they aren’t grasses but
are true sedges and are very difficult to control
Nutsedge grows from tubers on roots (shown in above photo) and can grow up to 3 ft tall if left uncut. Its leaves are grassy and yellowgreen. Purple-spiked nutsedge is found mainly in California and the southeast, while the yellow-spiked nutsedge is commonly found in
lawns during warm, damp conditions. Growing all over North America, nutsedges prefer moist, sunny areas. They can be crowded out of
space by mulch or other plant growth. Nutsedges thrive in waterlogged soil, and their presence often indicates drainage is poor, irrigation is
too frequent, or sprinklers are leaky. Once established, however, they will tolerate normal irrigation conditions or drought.
Nutsedge has three long, leaflike bracts at the base of each flower head. Yellow nutsedge has light brown flowers and seeds, while
purple nutsedge flowers have a reddish tinge and the seeds are dark brown or black.
Yellow and purple nutsedges produce tubers, which are incorrectly called “nuts” or “nutlets,” thus the origin of their common name. The
plants produce these tubers on rhizomes, or underground stems, that grow as deep as 8 to 14 inches below the soil surface. Buds on the
tubers sprout and grow to form new plants and eventually form patches that can range up to 10 feet or more in diameter. Yellow nutsedge
produces round, smooth, brown or black tubers that can be up to 1/2 inch at maturity. Only a single tuber forms at the end of a rhizome,
and the tubers have a pleasant almond taste.
One weed often confused with yellow or purple nutsedge is tall umbrella sedge (C. eragrostis) another perennial sedge that grows in
wet, soggy soils. Tall umbrella sedge is a large, light green sedge that doesn’t produce tubers. It spreads by seed or by new plants that
form on short, thick rhizomes around the base of the mother plant. If left unmowed, it grows taller than nutsedge, but in a mowed turf you
can distinguish it from nutsedges by its tendency to grow in tight clumps that are less than 1 ft in diameter, its wider leaves and stems, and
its short, thick rhizomes and lack of tubers.
Another weed often confused with nutsedges is green kyllinga (Kyllinga brevifolia) which also is a major problem in turf and ornamental
plantings. Green kyllinga flowers are visibly different from those of nutsedges, and the plant produces rhizomes but not tubers.
LIFE CYCLE. Yellow and purple nutsedges are perennial plants. Their leaves and flowering stalks generally die back in fall as
temperatures decrease, but tubers and rhizomes survive in the soil and sprout the following spring once soil temperatures remain higher
than 43°F for yellow nutsedge and higher than 59°F for purple nutsedge.
The majority of tubers occur in the top 6 inches of soil where they can survive for 1 to 3 years. In field crops, research indicates most
nutsedges sprout from tubers, and seeds don’t contribute much to the spread of the plant; however, no work has been done to examine the
role of seed in the spread of nutsedge in the landscape.
NUTSEDGE & CHILE PRODUCTION. Most of the common weeds in New Mexico chile fields, including yellow and purple nutsedge, serve
as alternate hosts for root-knot nematodes. Weeds also serve as alternate hosts for other pests, including nematodes, insects, and viruses.
Silverleaf nightshade (Solanum elaeagni-folium) and field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) are the most important overwintering hosts for
four viruses found in Southern New Mexico chile. Silverleaf nightshade and other weeds in the Solanaceae family are also alternate hosts
of pepper weevil in other regions.
Nutsedge impacts chile production in several ways. First, chile peppers emerge slowly from the soil and continue to grow slowly, making
them more susceptible to competition from weeds for sunlight, nutrients, water, and space. Research at NMSU has shown that weeds
emerging after thinning can reduce yields even if fields are kept clean prior to thinning. Second, weeds in the field at the end of the growing
season interfere with the harvesting process and have usually produced seed that allows the weed to complete its ultimate goal is to make
seed that will allow the weed to come back next year. Article Continued on Page 18
Nutsedge—Continued from Page 17
CULTURAL CONTROL & MANAGEMENT. The best approach for avoiding
nutsedge problems is to prevent establishment of the weed in the first place.
Once established, nutsedge plants are difficult to control. Prevent establishment
by, 1) removing small plants before they develop tubers, 2) eliminating the wet
conditions that favor nutsedge growth, 3) using certain fabric mulches in
landscape beds, and 4) making sure nutsedge tubers aren’t brought in with
topsoil or other materials. In addition to consistently removing small plants, you
can reduce nutsedge populations by drying, shading, and using properly timed
applications of herbicides. Young nutsedge plants can be pulled by hand. Allow
the plant and root to dry in the sun for a full day before composting. Cut larger
plants at ground level before the heads begin to seed. Till under large areas to
destroy tubers in the fall.
Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. If you can limit production of tubers,
you’ll eventually control the nutsedge itself.
To limit tuber production, remove small nutsedge plants before they have 5
to 6 leaves; in summer this is about every 2 to 3 weeks. Up to this stage, the
plant hasn’t formed new tubers yet. Removing as much of the plant as possible
will force the tuber to produce a new plant, drawing its energy reserves from
tuber production to the production of new leaves.
Continually removing shoots eventually depletes the energy reserves in the
tuber, because the nutsedge will have to use 60% of its reserves to develop the
first plant and 20% for the second. However, mature tubers can resprout more
than 3 times. Even though these newer sprouts start out weaker than the
previous ones, plants can develop from them and produce new tubers unless
you remove them.
The best way to remove small plants is to pull them up by hand or to hand
hoe. If you hoe, be sure to dig down at least 8 to 14 inches to remove the entire
plant. Using a tiller to destroy mature plants only will spread the infestation,
because it will move the tubers around in the soil. However, repeated tillings of
small areas before the plants have 6 leaves will reduce populations. If you find
nutsedge in small patches in your turf, dig out the patch down to at least 8
inches deep, refill, and then seed or sod the patch.
Nutsedges don’t grow well in shade, so changing landscape plantings might
reduce their growth. For example, a highly infested, annually planted flower bed
might be better off if you replant it with a tall, dense ground cover or shrub.
Low-growing ground covers won’t shade out nutsedge.
Mulching—The commonly used black polyethylene plastic mulches do not
control yellow or purple nutsedge, because the sharp points at the ends of their
leaves can penetrate them. Landscape fabrics made from polypropylene
polymers are available that effectively suppress nutsedge growth and have the
added benefit of being water and air permeable, unlike polyethylene. If the
planting permits, mulching with a thick, nonwoven landscape fabric covered
with a bark or gravel mulch will suppress nutsedge growth. For complete
control, however, you still will need to remove any emerging nutsedge plants.
Mow High to Help Control Nutsedge—Depending on your turf type and
latitude, you can help control this weed by changing the way you mow. Mowing
your lawn at about 3 inches lets the grass crowd out nutsedge and other
weeds. Mowing short stimulates nutsedge.
CHEMICAL CONTROL. Few herbicides are effective at controlling nutsedge,
either because of a lack of selectivity to other plants or a lack of uptake. For
herbicides that are suitable, apply them when they’ll be most effective. Most
herbicides aren’t effective against tubers.
Page 18 of 24
Dwarf Butterfly Bush—Continued from Page 12
Origin. Native to Western China, and root hardy to
Zone 5, Buddleia is considered a dieback shrub in
Michigan and other northern climates. Simply put,
this means that although it produces woody stems,
it behaves like a perennial and dies back close to
the ground. And just like a perennial, it makes no
difference to the plant. Simply cut back the dead
stems in early spring, stand back and watch the
plant explode with growth. Buddleia blooms on new
wood, so its floral display is not diminished by its
dieback behavior. In fact cutting Buddleia back
benefits the blooming and overall plant habit. Even
in the south where its wood remains alive, an
annual spring whacking makes for a nicer plant.
Dwarf Plants. Dwarf and compact Buddleia are the
wave of the future. While older cultivars we
selected for flower color they are notorious for
having rangy habits. New and improved selections
are delivering the color but on neater, better
branching plants. Dwarf cultivars are relatively new.
Lo & Behold® – A New Series of Miniature
Butterfly Bush. Undoubtedly, the most exciting
news for the Butterfly bush has to be the
introduction of a new series of miniature plants
called Lo & Behold®. The first release is Lo &
Behold® 'Blue Chip' and as the name indicates it
has blue flowers. Other colors will be introduced
over the following years. Lo & Behold® plants are
remarkable for several reasons. Their small 20"
mounded habit makes for the perfect flowering
ground cover or container plants. Unlike other
Butterfly bushes, this series is continuous flowering.
That's right, continuous flowering without the need
to prune or deadhead. J
Sources:
• Lo & Behold® 'Blue Chip' Buddleia hybrid,
http://www.provenwinners.com/plants/detail.cfm?ph
otoID=9188&page=1&searchKeywords=blue%20ch
ip (PW ProvenWinners.com)
http://www.springmeadownursery.com/article_7.htm
(SpringMeadowNursery.com)
http://gardening.about.com/od/whatsnewinthegarde
n/ig/New-and-Cool-Plants-for-2009-/Lo---Behold--Blue-Chip--Buddl.htm (About.Com)
Thank you to Dale Petzold, Certified Master
Gardener, for alerting us about this new plant.
VEGGIES: A To Z
—BEETS—
The beet (Beta vulgaris) is a plant in the amaranth family. It is best
known in its numerous cultivated varieties, the most well known is
probably the red or purple root vegetable known as the beetroot or
garden beet. However, other cultivated varieties include the leaf
vegetables chard and spinach beet, as well as the root vegetables sugar
beet, which is important in the production of table sugar, and
mangelwurzel, which is a fodder crop.
Beta vulgaris is a herbaceous biennial or rarely perennial plant with
leafy stems. The leaves are heart-shaped and its flowers are produced in
dense spikes, each flower is very small, green or tinged reddish, with five
petals; beets are wind-pollinated. The fruit is a cluster of hard nutlets.
The beet is well adapted to all parts of the U.S. It is fairly tolerant of
heat; it is also resistant to cold. Beets are a cool-season crop and grow
well in the cool temperatures of spring and fall. However, it will not
withstand severe freezing. In the Northern States, where winters are too
severe, the beet is grown in spring, summer, and fall. Beets do poorly in
hot weather. This vegetable is well suited to large or small home gardens
since it requires little room. Beets are grown for both the roots that usually
are pickled and the young tops that are used as greens.
ORIGIN. The beet has a long history of cultivation stretching back to the
second millennium BC. The plant was probably domesticated somewhere
along the Mediterranean, whence it was later spread to Babylonia by the
8th century BC and as far east as China by 850 AD. Available evidence,
such as that provided by Aristotle and Theophrastus suggests that the
leafy varieties of the beet were grown primarily for most of its history,
though these lost much of their popularity much later following the
introduction of spinach. The beet became highly commercially important
in 19th century Europe following the development of the sugar beet in
Germany and the discovery that sucrose could be extracted from them,
providing an alternative to tropical sugar cane. The sugar beet remains a
widely cultivated commercial crop for producing table sugar.
The roots and leaves of the beet have been used in folk medicine to
treat a wide variety of ailments. Ancient Romans used beetroot as a
treatment for fevers and constipation, amongst other ailments.
HOW TO GROW BEETS.
–Site Selection. Choose a site that gets full sun and has light soil with a
pH of 6.5 to 7.0 Dig deeply to at least 10“ to promote good root development, and amend the soil with plenty of organic matter.
Beets can be planted in partial shade and grow best in deep, welldrained soils. Beets have deep roots that can reach depths of 36-48“, so
do not plant them where tree roots will compete.
Beets do best in sandy soil in the spring and heavier soil in the fall
because sandy soil warms faster than heavier clay soil. They do not grow
well in tight clay. In poorly drained areas, plant rows with ridges that are
4-6” tall and 18-24” apart as beets are very important in low, poorly
drained areas. They allow the soil to drain and air to enter.
Page 19 of 24
HOW TO GROW BEETS (Continued)
–Soil Preparation. Before planting, make sure the soil is
free of rocks, trash and large sticks. Mix fine pieces of plant
material such as grass, leaves and small sticks into the soil
to enrich it. Loosen the soil to 8-10“ deep.
The soil should have adequate organic matter to prevent
it from crusting because crusty soil causes beetroots to be
tough. Beets are also sensitive to soils deficient in boron.
Have your soil tested or ask your County Extension agent
about boron deficiencies in your area.
Be sure all plant material is covered with soil so it will
break down quickly. Using a hoe handle, stick or similar
object, make a furrow 1⁄2” deep down the center of the
ridge. Make successive sowings at intervals of about 3
weeks in order to have a continuous supply of young,
tender beets throughout the season.
Where cultivating is by hand, the rows may be about 16”
apart; where it is by tractor, they must be wider. Beet seed
as purchased consists of small balls, each containing
several seeds. On most soils, the seed should be covered
to a depth of about an inch. After the plants are well
established, thin them to stand 2-3” apart in the rows.
Beets are sensitive to strongly acid soils, and it is wise to
apply lime if a test shows the need for it. Good beet quality
depends on quick growth; for this the land must be fertile,
well-drained, and in good physical condition. Midsummer
heat and drought may interfere with seed germination. By
covering the seeds with sandy soil, leaf mold, or other
material that will not bake and by keeping the soil damp
until the plants are up, much of this trouble can be avoided.
–Planting. Sow seeds outdoors beginning two or three
weeks before the last expected frost. (Like most root crops,
beets rarely show up as started plants in nurseries.) Seeds
should be 1-1 1/2” deep and 2” apart, with at least 1 ft
between rows. Beet seeds are somewhat bigger than the
seeds of other root crops, and they look like bits of cork.
Each one is actually a cluster (or corm) with 3 or 4 seeds.
Each beet seed produces 2 to 6 plants.
Cover seeds lightly with loose soil and sprinkle with
water. Use seed treated with a fungicide to prevent the
young plants from rotting. Plants should be up in 7 to 14
days. In hot weather, cover seed with sand or light-colored
mulch. About 10 ft of row per person will provide enough
beets to use fresh or for canning.
Beets can be grown all winter in many areas of the
southwest. Farther north they should be planted as soon as
the soil can be worked in spring. Soil temperature must be
at least 40°F for beet seeds to sprout.
The beet planting area can also be covered with floating
row covers immediately after planting to deter leaf miners
and other marauders. Article Continued on Page 20
BEETS—Continued from Page 19
HOW TO GROW BEETS (Continued)
—Thinning & Weeding. Thin plants when they're 2” tall, and be
ruthless—crowded roots will not develop properly. (Besides, the
culled leaves will be yummy in salads.) See the seed packet for
exact spacing, but as a general rule, put 3-4” between plants of
smaller varieties, and 6” between those with larger roots.
Keep the beet plants free of weeds that use nutrients and
moisture. Scratch the soil next to the plants with a rake or hoe.
Encourage rapid growth (a key, along with even moisture, to
sweet-flavored beets) by feeding every three weeks with a diluted
organic fertilizer that's low in nitrogen. On the other hand, if you're
after lush greens rather than tasty roots, use an organic fertilizer
with an even balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
—Fertilizing. Scatter 1 cup of a complete fertilizer such as 10-2010 for each 10 ft of row. If the garden soil has a lot of clay, add
compost. Mix the fertilizer 4” into the soil with a rake and work into
beds. Scatter 1 tablespoon of fertilizer for each 10 ft of row beside
the plants when they are 4 to 6 inches tall.
—Watering. Give plants at least 1” of water a week, and maintain
a regular schedule; uneven watering can result in dry, cracked
roots. Beet root systems can reach 36” or more if adequate soil
moisture is available. Once plants are established, mulch with
compost to conserve moisture and deter weeds.
—Harvesting. Beets should be ready to harvest 7-8 weeks after
they are planted. Young, tender tops often have a mild quality, but
the greens can be used until they get large and strong flavored.
Pull the plants and cut off the root. If the tops are to be used,
wash and place them in plastic bags in the refrigerator for 1 or 2
days. Roots will keep 1 to 2 weeks in plastic bags in the
refrigerator. If all the beets are not used, pull them and place in a
compost pile or spade them into the soil. Harvest both roots and
greens when they're small and tender for the best flavor.
BEET VARIETIES. Dedicated beet lovers swear that juicy, deep
red beets fresh from the garden make the finest eating available. If
you plant plenty of beets, you can enjoy an early feast of beet
greens, beet salads all summer and an ample winter supply for the
root cellar. Beets are grown for both the root and top. The tops of
any variety can be used for greens when prepared properly.
In addition to the table types, sugar beets are grown
commercially for making white sugar. Table beets taste sweet
because they, too, are loaded with natural sugar.
When selecting a beet variety, consider the crop's intended use.
Red and purple roots are the most popular, but you can also opt for
white and gold varieties, which won't "bleed" when cut.
Cylindra or Tender Sweet (55 to 60 days to maturity)—shaped
long; tender, stores well and are easier to slice
Detroit Dark Red (60 days to maturity)—very popular variety that
adapts well to various regions and is great for freezing, canning or
storing. Many of the new hybrids are improved Detroit types. It can
be grown for both greens and roots and grows well in a wide range
of soil and temperature conditions.
Early Wonder (48-55 days to maturity)—transplants well and
produces especially good greens.
Golden Beet (50-55 days to maturity)—orange-skinned with yellow
flesh; remains tender and sweet as it matures, and yields greens
that taste delicious whether fresh or cooked. Tastes exactly like the
red beet. Golden Beet does, however, germinate more slowly than
most other varieties.
Page 20 of 24
BEET VARIETIES (Continued)
Little Ball (56 days to maturity)—small, baby beets, developed
especially for canning whole; roots stay small (about one and a
half inches) even as they age.
Long Season (78 to 80 days to maturity)—very tasty leaves and
rough-looking but tender, sweet roots, which are excellent for
storage.
Luz Green Leaf (80 days to maturity)—round shape; grown
primarily for its leaves which do not grow bitter as they grow
bigger; tender and sweet; makes a very pretty patio plant and
can be planted with flowers.
Pacemaker (50 days to maturity)—early variety; short tops,
excellent-quality roots.
Red Ace (55 days to maturity)—hybrid with improved vigor and
better germination, faster growth in spring, more uniform red
roots, and higher disease resistance. The bright red-veined
green tops hold a long time without losing their quality.
Red Cloud (60 days to maturity)—improved flavor and garden
performance; extremely high sugar content makes this beet very
flavorful; improved top strength makes this beet easy to harvest.
Ruby Queen (52-55 days to maturity)—early maturing; excellent
for pickling and canning; keeps well through winter
Warrior (57 days to maturity) —highly uniform, globe shape
develops quickly, holds quality as roots grow large; dark red
color inside and out; tops fringed with red.
INSECTS. Many insecticides are available at garden centers for
homeowner use. Sevin® is a synthetic insecticide, while Btbased (Bacillus thuringiensis) insecticides and sulfur are organic
options. Sulfur also has fungicidal properties and helps control
many diseases. Before using a pesticide, read the label and
always follow cautions, warnings and directions. These pests
include the flea beetle, webworm, aphid and beet armyworm.
DISEASES. Diseases on beets are most severe in cloudy, damp
weather. Check plants daily and treat them with an approved
fungicide if diseases appear. Neem oil, sulfur, and other
fungicides are available for use. Always follow label directions.
SERVING BEETS. Beets can be served fresh, or they can be
preserved plain or pickled. The usually deep-red roots of garden
beet are eaten boiled either as a cooked vegetable, or cold as a
salad after cooking and adding oil and vinegar. A large
proportion of the commercial production is processed into boiled
and sterilized beets or into pickles. In Eastern Europe beet soup,
such as cold borscht, is a popular dish. Jews traditionally eat
beet on Rosh Hashana (New Year).
Beets and beet greens can be canned, frozen, or pickled.
OTHER USES & NUTRIENTS. Betanins obtained from
beetroots, are used industrially as red food colorants to intensify
the color of tomato paste, sauces, desserts, jams and jellies, ice
cream, sweets and breakfast cereals. Beet pulp is fed to horses
that are in vigorous training or conditioning and to those that may
be allergic to dust from hay. Beetroots can also be used to make
wine.
All parts of the beet plant contain oxalic acid. Beet greens and
Swiss Chard are both considered high oxalate foods which have
been implicated on the formation of kidney stones. Beetroots
contain small amounts of vitamins and minerals, while beet
greens are an excellent source of Vitamin A and calcium.
Page 21 of 24
BEETS—Continued from Page 20
Nutsedge—Continued from Page 18
OTHER USES (Continued).
Beets are one of the most boron-intensive of modern agricultural
crops, a dependency possibly introduced as an evolutionary
response its pre-industrial ancestor's constant exposure to sea spray.
A lack of boron causes the plant’s meristem and the shoot to
languish, eventually leading to heart rot.
RED/PURPLE COLORING. The color of red/purple beetroot is due to
a variety of betalain pigments, unlike most other red plants, such as
red cabbage, which contain anthocyanin pigments. The composition
of different betalain pigments can vary, giving breeds of beetroot
which are yellow or other colors in addition to the familiar deep red.
Other pigments contained in beet are indicaxanthin and
vulgaxanthins (yellow to orange pigments known as betaxanthins).
Indicaxanthin has been shown as a powerful protective antioxidant
for thalassemia, as well as prevents the breakdown of alphatocopherol (Vitamin E).
Betacyanin in beetroot may cause pink or red urine in some people
who are unable to break it down. This is called beeturia. J
CHEMICAL CONTROL (Continued).
To date, there is no single herbicide effect for both
varieties of nutsedge in flower gardens. Most available
herbicides are for pre-emergent plants, so knowledge of
which type of nutsedge, either purple or yellow, is important
before using any type of herbicide. Overuse can also destroy
the ornamentals that surround the nutsedge.
Halosulfuron-methyl is a new herbicide on the market that
is being used to control both yellow and purple nutsedges in
grassy or turf areas. Glyphosate can also be used since both
of these herbicides are post-emergent applications.
Organic methods of dealing with nutsedges, whether
yellow or purple, include weeding and cultivation around any
ornamental flowers or other areas that herbicides cannot be
used. Organic herbicides work best on young plants and
cannot effectively control established colonies of nutsedge.
Ingredients in organic herbicides include clove oil, acetic acid
and citric acid work best on a wide range of young broadleaf
weeds.
To avoid damage to neighboring plants, any herbicide
should be sprayed when the wind is calm and the sun is hot.
The area should be dry and the temperature should be at
least 70 degrees. Care should be taken as even organic
herbicides can damage the soil if applications are repeated
too often.
In lawn situations, regular mowing works best to control
both yellow and purple nutsedge. By keeping the plants
mowed low to the ground, the plant's food source is cut off
and the tuber will eventually die. Any plants in areas not
accessible by the mower can be dealt with using garden
shears or a weed trimmer. If seed bearing plants are trimmed
or mowed, collect all clippings and dispose of the debris in a
shady area or allow to heat inside plastic lawn bags to kill the
seeds. J
SOURCES:
About Beets, by Sara Pacher, in Mother Earth News, May/June
1989;
Link: http://www.motherearthnews.com/print-article.aspx?id=71024
Beet Varieties, National Gardening Association, Link:
http://www.garden.org/foodguide/browse/veggie/roots_getting_star
ted/604
Beet, on Wiikipedia; Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beet
Easy Gardening: Beets, by Joseph Masabni, Assistant Professor &
Extension Horticulturist, AgriLIFE Extension, Texas A & M
University, Publication E-504, April 2009
Growing Beets–How To Grow Beets in the Garden, on
GardeningKnowHow.com;
Link: http://www.gardeningknowhow.com
How To Grow Beets, on eHow.com;
Link: http://www.ehow.com/how_2004_grow-beets.html
SOURCES:
Nutsedge Pest Notes, UC Davis Statewide Integrated Pest
Mgmt. for Home Gardeners and Landscape Professionals,
Publication 7432, April 2003; Link:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/WEEDS/nutsedge.html
Nutsedge Weed, in GardenGuides.com
Link: http://www.gardenguides.com/857-nutsedgeweed.html#ixzz0sksrPHiQ
Weed Management in Chile, NMSU Circular 548, by
Richard D. Lee, Extension Weed Scientist and Jill
Schroeder EPPWS Weed Scientist;
Link: http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_circulars/circ548.html
Weeds: Nutsedge, on Scotts.com; Link:
http://www.scotts.com/smg/solve/solution/solutionArticle.js
p?detailId=13700018
Page 22 of 24
—Monthly Meeting, June 16, 2010—
WELCOME, INTRODUCTIONS & NEWS—Juliet Williams
COMMITTEE/PROJECT REPORTS
MG Hotline—(Pam Crane) Pam announced that there are still a few slots open for interns in June. Also, please remember to use the
speaker phone when taking a call so everyone can hear what is being said. That makes each call a better teaching and learning opportunity.
Newsletter—(Ann Shine-Ring) Ann said the Plant-of-the-Month for July will be Afghan pines. There will also be articles on butterflies of
this area, beets and nutsedge. There is now an index of all the newsletter articles posted on the NMSU website for easy reference. The
older back issues had to be taken off the university-based website because of space issues, but there will be a binder with all the back
issues in the MG office. Also, Darrol has all back issues of our newsletter on his website (www.darrolshillingburg.com). Suggestions and
articles for the newsletter are always welcome. Juliet reported that our newsletters got rave reviews at the NM Master Gardener State
Conference, as did the display that Hope put together. Many thanks to Ann, Hope, Sylvia and all who worked on the various components of
the “Bragging Board”.
Farmer’s Market & April 24 Plant Sale—(Barb Sallach) Barb reported that the Farmers market went well last weekend, but attendance
was light due to the heat. We have signed up for the third Saturday of the month for the next four months. July 17 will be the next one, but it
hasn’t been confirmed at this point. It is not too early to think about a plant sale for September.
Lunch & Learn Presentation—(Sylvia Hacker) Sylvia announced that she will be presenting a program on Pollinators Other than Bees on
June 17. The Program for July is Afghan Pines presented by Oscar Mestas. In August, the presentation will be about bats.
Fall Garden Expo—(Ann Palormo) Ann asked to have a committee formed to plan the Expo and to review what we have done in the
past, what worked, what didn’t. Also, a good date in the fall needs to be set. Contact Ann at ([email protected]) if you are interested in
working on this project.
Other Announcements—
• Livestock and 4-H Agent Rafa Realivasquez is leaving for another job in Texas. We would like to add another hotline day to take some of
the pressure off Jeff while he is covering two positions. We are thinking Mondays would be good as many problems seem to arise when
people get out into their yards over the weekend.
• Jeff said that our funding will continue this fiscal year but there will be discussion again next year. Most of the County Commissioners are
supportive of continuing the program. Since the Commissioners receive the MG newsletter, we might want to consider putting a notation
of our volunteer hours worked each month and what kinds of issues came in on the hotline. Valice and Joan Lane volunteered to do a
summary of hotline questions each month.
• Juliet has a copy of the evaluation form used by the Albuquerque MG’s to decide whether to send MGs to help out an organization and
who to send. MGs in Albuquerque do make house calls, which we don’t usually do. Jeff says if MGs want to make house calls, we
should let him know and he will evaluate the request.
There was also discussion of how to get more publicity for the many projects we do. Valice suggested an evaluation or feedback form that
organizations we work for can fill in for a record of our community service.
OLD / CONTINUING BUSINESS
4-H County Contest—(Jeff Anderson) Jeff said that our County contest went well. He and Juliet are leaving this afternoon for
Lordsburg for the district contest which takes place June 17.
State Master Gardeners Conference, June 10-12—(Juliet Williams) The Conference was very good, but few people attended from
Doña Ana County. Topics were good and speakers were excellent. The leadership meeting was very useful for the various MG groups to
discuss problems and successes. It was clear that we have one of the best, if not the best MG Program in New Mexico, with a very good
relationship between the MGs and the County Agent. Also thanks to Sylvia for the items she donated to the silent auction. Sylvia affirmed
that we are lucky to have Jeff as our agent. We will probably host the next conference either next year or in two years.
NEW BUSINESS
Organization—Jeff and Juliet would like to begin quarterly organizational meetings with Committee chairs, Coordinators and any other
interested parties with the goal of making sure we are all on the same page, people are okay with continuing their tasks, and determine if
help needed, etc. It was agreed to meet quarterly on the Wednesday before the monthly MG meetings (second Wednesday) beginning on
July 14 from 9-11am at the CES Office. The next quarterly organizational meetings will be held on October 13, January 12 & April 13.
State 4-H Hort Contest (Tuesday, July 13, 2010)—Juliet passed around sign up sheet for the State 4-H Contest. If you are interested
in volunteering, please contact Juliet at ([email protected]).
Gulf Oil Spill—A seminar on this topic was held at UTEP, June 17–12:00 noon. Clean up efforts and past oil spills were discussed.
Integrated Pest Management Workshop (June 27, 2010) Flyers explaining this free workshop were provided on the back table, also
Jeff emailed this announcement out to all MGs a few days ago. The workshop will be held at the Cooperative Extension Office.
Green Infrastructure Conference (August 26, 2010) This should be a very interesting conference on how to make Las Cruces more
green, including rain harvesting and other topics. There will be $50 registration feec. MGs who volunteer to help get free registration but will
need to pay for their lunch.
Page 23 of 24
—Monthly Meeting, June 16, 2010 (Continued)—
EDUCATIONAL PRESENTATION: CATCH IT WHILE YOU CAN (RAIN-HARVESTING) By Dr. Curtis Smith
Dr. Smith is planning a statewide Water Rights information/discussion/training for MGs so we are all more familiar with water
politics and rights for the residents we serve. This training will held on the Internet in order to reach all MG groups in New Mexico. More
information is coming about this.
A Note on Pests: Several different types of beetle have attacked pine and juniper in New Mexico. They have killed some trees,
but this seems to have opened up space in the canopy to allow remaining trees to get more sunlight, and thus become healthier and
more able to fend off attackers. Healthy trees emit pitch to expel attacking beetles.
Xeriscape planting includes efficient irrigation. New Mexico water is poor quality, whether you get it from the Rio Grande, ground
water from a well, or from the city because of dissolved salts in the water. The more you water, the more salts build up in the soil. Thus,
it is very important not to over-irrigate. The best quality water available for gardens is rainwater.
Any paved surface, such as walkways, driveways or parking lots, can be used to collect rainwater and direct it to planting beds
with the use of berms and swales properly located near the paved area. City engineers in Albuquerque are now designing and regrading medians so water from the street drains into the median. The use of large berms and swales around trees can help direct rain
water to where the smaller roots of the tree are located, several feet away from the tree trunk.
Runoff from the roof should be directed to planting beds around the house, but these should be 18” away from the house to avoid
soaking the foundation. Swales can also direct roof run off to trees in the yard. Tree roots can be up to 4 x the height of the tree away
from the tree trunk, and tree roots will grow into areas where there is water, but they cannot pass through areas that are completely dry
to get to the water. Deep watering is necessary for trees if you live on the mesa.
Ollas are unglazed clay pots; they have been used for centuries but various civilizations to provide water to plants. The olla is
buried in the ground and plants are planted around it. Fill the olla with water and it will slowly seep into the soil. Within a short time, the
plant’s roots will surround the olla and absorb water directly from the sweating clay, thus providing 100% usage of the water. Ollas of
various sizes and shapes are available from East Central Ministry in Albuquerque (www.eastcentralministries.org click on urban farms,
then ollas) or you can make your own using clay pots. Attach two clay pots of the same size together using GEII silicon calk (bathtub
calk) also fill one of the holes. Bury the pots with the remaining opening just above the soil and fill as needed. Plant close to the olla.
This is a great way to get water to plants when you are going to be away for several weeks, or to get water to plants where there is no
water source. However, plants will need some top watering until their roots adapt to the olla.
Snacks: Thanks to Linda Morgan, Laurie Davidson, and Dale Petzold for our delicious snacks today. Next month, Nancy DeLouise,
Joan Lane and Susan McNeill will be the goodies makers.
Next MG Business Meeting – Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Bonnie and Juliet
C C C
MANY THANKS FOR THE GOODIES
We appreciate your thoughtfulness
July Goodies
Nancy DeLouise
Joan Lane
Susan McNeill
August Goodies
Doug Brown
Laurie Davidson
Sherry Hulsey
JULY MG BIRTHDAYS
Larry Dickson
Frank Connor
Dee Davis
Mona Nelson
Nancy DeLouise
Joan Lane
July 3
July 7
July 10
July 17
July 18
July 29
Page 24 of 24
(Hotline assignments listed were current as of 6/29/10)
Interns please notice that there are open spots for Interns in July & August
Please remember to be present on your assigned date for the Hotline. If another Master Gardener forgets,
please give him or her a “reminder” call. We are always very busy this time of the year so we need to have
full coverage on the Hotline. Thank you.
Master Gardener Hotline Assignments for July
Master Gardener Hotline Assignments for August
Friday, July 2
Alberta Morgan
David Hutchinson
Sylvia Hacker (I)
Tuesday, Aug. 3
Mike Lee
Susan McNeill
Christine Chavez (I)
Tuesday, July 6
Leigh Matthewson
Jodi Richardson (I)
(I)
Friday, Aug. 6
Alberta Morgan
Russ Boor (I)
(I)
Friday, July 9
Marti Taylor
Pat Anderson
Linda Morgan (I)
Tuesday, Aug. 10
Leigh Matthewson
Holly Richardson (I)
(I)
Tuesday, July 13 Bonnie Eisenberg
(I)
Friday, Aug. 13
Bonnie Eisenberg
Sylvia Hacker (I)
(I)
Friday, July 16
Tuesday, Aug. 17
Leigh Matthewson
Dale Petzold
Russ Boor (I)
Tuesday, July 20 Leigh Matthewson
Susan McNeill
Jane Zimmer (I)
Friday, Aug. 20
David Hutchinson
Sylvia Hacker (I)
(I)
Friday, July 23
Tuesday, Aug. 24
Mike Lee
Dale Petzold
Ann Palormo
Charlotte Duttle (I)
Ann Palormo
Joan Lane
Sylvia Hacker (I)
(I)
(I)
Tuesday, July 27 Larry Dickson
Susan McNeill
Friday, Aug. 27
David Hutchinson
(I)
(I)
Friday, July 30
Tuesday, Aug. 31
Leigh Matthewson
(I)
(I)
David Hutchinson
Dale Petzold
Sylvia Hacker (I)
Next Monthly Meeting of the
Doña Ana County Master Gardeners
C CC
July 21 @ Cooperative Extension Office
9am-11am
Reminder: The date for our September monthly MG
meeting has been rescheduled to Sept. 22nd

July - Darrol Shillingburg

Transcription

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