discover an unforgettable jewelry experience and a
Transcription
discover an unforgettable jewelry experience and a
DISCOVER AN UNFORGETTABLE JEWELRY EXPERIENCE AND A SUBSEQUENT PUBLIC RELATIONS BONANZA BY VISITING 10 DYNAMIC DESTINATIONS ADVENTURE METER is on a scale of 1 to 10, where 10 is helping dig your own stones in Madagascar. B Y T R A C E S H E L T O N 10 NEW YORK BELGIUM MONTANA INDIA EAST AFRICA BRAZIL BOTSWANA SOUTH AFRICA MADAGASCAR THAILAND WANNA GET AWAY? OF COURSE YOU DO. PROBLEM IS, there’s a store to run, employees to manage and jewelry to sell. But you deserve a break once in a while. And if you won’t do it for yourself, do it for your customers. That’s right: Leaving your store could actually be one of the best things you can do for your clients, provided you choose the right destination. “There’s a reason people love The Discovery Channel, The Travel Channel, and National Geographic,” says Jim Fiebig, a former retailer who found so much success traveling direct to the source for colored gemstones overseas that he now specializes in guiding retailers on such trips and promoting gemstones for various organizations (see SellMoreColor. com and GemstoneTrips.com for more information). “As a retailer, when I came back from Madagascar or Tanzania or Brazil and showed a customer a pile of rough, they couldn’t wait to write me a check,” Fiebig says. “I would get a four-time return on my inventory dollar.” Only 10 percent of Americans actually hold a passport, Fiebig says, but most want to vicariously participate in the romance of far-away places by purchasing gemstones mined, cut or traded there. “Why wouldn’t you want to promote yourself as direct-to-source?” says Rob ROB MAY: If you’ve been to the source, it’s a great story to tell customers and should be part of your overall story. May, president of the Natural Color Diamond International Association (NCDIA). “If you’ve experienced the mining, the cutting and the overseas trading, that’s a great story to tell customers. And it shouldn’t be a one-time PR hit — it should become part of your overall story.” May adds that building stronger relationships with your suppliers by visiting their trading offices can also benefit your business immensely. “Diamonds are going to get harder and harder to source, so if you promote your relationship with your supplier, they can then go to the mining companies and show them that they have a retailer telling the entire story to their customers,” May says. “Every few years, the suppliers have to go back to their mining partners and give a presentation on why they deserve this rough, so why wouldn’t you want to be a retailer of choice?” The publicity and inventory benefits are bountiful, so you owe it to your store and your customers to make the trip. But where should you begin? You can see three different aspects of jewelry creation: mining, cutting and trading. You can visit the mines and see some amazing rough and cut gemstones in places like Brazil, Africa and even ANTWERP BELGIUM In Madagascar, you can even dig, if you like. Montana, along with the diamond mines in Botswana, South Africa and Australia. Then, you can watch diamonds being cut and traded in India, Antwerp and New York, as well as the largest gemstone markets in the world in Thailand, Hong Kong and Idar-Oberstein in Germany. “Whether it’s mining, cutting, or trading, you have a story to tell when you get home. It makes you sound more like a direct source,” May says. “You’re not just in the industry, you’re a part of the industry as a whole.” And in some cases, you’ll be seeing gemstones that have only recently been discovered, Fiebig says. “There’s never been a better time in all of human history to buy color gemstones because the sources are available now,” he says. “You’ll see tanzanite and zultanite and things that didn’t even exist 50 years ago because no one could get into those areas to mine them.” All of that pays off with customers as you continue to tell that story over the years. “After a while, I could go to Florida and come back with a tan, and customers would say, ‘Hey, you been to Africa again? What’d you bring back?’” laughs Fiebig. “People would line up at the store to buy these gemstones, and this in a town of 10,000 in southern Michigan where our biggest industry was seed corn. So when people tell me color doesn’t sell, I say, ‘You’re right. you sell.’” So what are you waiting for? Pick a location, pack your bags, and see what the world of diamonds, gemstones and jewelry has to offer! 58 JULY 2011 JEWELRY CONNECTION: Considered “The Diamond Capital of the World” FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 7.5 hours DON’T MISS: The Diamond Quarter, one square mile through which passes $16 billion in polished diamonds each year ADVENTURE METER Moderate 6 O NCE the richest city in the world, Antwerp remains one of the most important ports in Europe, but its primary claim to fame is its diamond trade. The Diamond Quarter is filled with more than 12,000 of the world’s most skilled cutters and polishers, 3,500 brokers, and includes four of the world’s 28 diamond bourses (the most of any country). All told, approximately 80 percent of the world’s rough diamonds (and 50 percent of polished diamonds) go through Antwerp. “Visiting the diamond brokers in Antwerp is a great experience to bring back to your customers,” says Annette Kinzie, co-owner of Leonard Jewelry with her husband Kent in Stillwater, OK. “People want to be a part of that direct buying experience and feel like they’re getting the deal of a lifetime.” The Kinzies promote their annual trip 30 days in advance by radio and TV. “Some customers want something specific while others just give us a budget,” Kinzie says. Upon their return, they hold an event to show off the loose diamonds purchased in Antwerp. “The trip is thrilling,” Kinzie says. “You feel like you’re in the thick of the industry action. You get more of a feel for our industry than just the end result of selling in the store.” Rob May suggests going one step further with customers: “One great way to take your customer service to another level, especially for customers buying expensive diamonds, would be to take them to Antwerp, show them the rough diamond they’ll be purchasing, and take a picture of it that they can save to go with the finished diamond after it’s been cut and polished,” May says. “They can experience the process of their diamond from start to finish.” BOTSWANA W HEN newly-formed Botswana inked a deal with De Beers to explore and mine all of the country’s diamonds, it went from being among the poorest countries in the world to boasting one of the highest standards of living in Africa in just four decades. Four large diamond mines operate in Botswana, including the richest in the world in Jwaneng and one of the Earth’s largest in Orapa. Georgie Gleim of Gleim the Jeweler in Palo Alto, CA, traveled to Botswana several years ago and visited the Orapa mine. “Its vast scale was quite impressive,” she says. “I have used the pictures I took in numerous presentations to vari- DON’T MISS: The De Beers diamond sorting complex in Gabarone — the largest, most technologically advanced sorting complex in the world Vicki Cunningham stands amidst the serene beauty of the Botswanan landscape. FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 15 hours JEWELRY CONNECTION: The world’s largest producer of gem diamonds The open pit mine in Jwaneng, one of the world’s richest diamond mines. ADVENTURE METER Intense 8 ous community groups, giving them a bit more insight into diamond mining and helping them understand just what a difficult and expensive proposition it can be.” Vicki Cunningham of Cunningham Fine Jewelry in Tulsa, OK, visited the Jwaneng mine last year, as well as the De Beers sorting facility. “The Jwaneng mine is an open pit mine, which I’d never seen, and they’re still finding a couple thousand carats a day,” Cunningham says. The real treat, though, was watching the sorting technology: “There had to be millions of diamonds in those machines. There’s a machine that sorts them by color and one that sorts them by size. Then there was a machine with long rollers that separates the rough, so the flat pieces go one way and the round pieces go the other way. And I was thinking, how does it know that?” Of course, as Gleim says, no trip to Botswana can be all about diamonds: “I was able to do some safari trips, which must be included in any trip to Africa.” BRAZIL B RAZIL may be best known for its stunning beaches and vibrant culture, but it also boasts one of the world’s strongest economies and, more importantly, an extraordinary variety of gemstones. “Brazil is one of the easiest places for Americans to visit,” Fiebig says. “The time zone is off by maybe an hour, so there’s no jet lag. You can take a vacation to Rio de Janeiro or Bahia, either of which will be within a plane or bus ride of gemstone mining.” Governador Valadares, a city in the eastern part of the country, is home to the Brazil Gem Show and an array of gemstone mining that includes amethyst, citrine, and tourmaline. And one of Fiebig’s favorite destinations is Ouro Preto, which “abounds in the most beautiful, real, precious topaz on the planet, called imperial topaz. It’s the only place on Earth that this amazing gemstone occurs,” he says. The Kinzies have seen both mines, and watched workers sort rough as it moved across conveyor belts. “It’s a great experience to share with customers,” says Annette Kinzie. “We had pictures taken and brought loose gemstones and quartz crystals to show customers what they look like in their natural form.” Most Brazilians speak English, making the country easy for Americans to navigate, and the beaches at Ipanema and Copacabana in Rio are internationally famous. Fiebig says the hotels are excellent, the people are passionate, and the food, wine and beer are wonderful. And, he adds, Americans are more welcome in Brazil than many other places. “They still love Americans and are honored you would take the time to come and see them,” he says. “When American jewelers travel to Brazil, they’ll receive a much warmer reception than they will anywhere in Europe.” JEWELRY CONNECTION: One-third of the world’s gemstones are mined in Brazil (excluding diamond, ruby and sapphire) PHOTO: ©GIA REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION DON’T MISS: The province of Bahia, home of emerald mining, incredible beaches and landscapes, and exceptional music and cuisine FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 9.5 hours ADVENTURE METER Intense 7 EAST AFRICA TANZANIA AND KENYA DON’T MISS: Ngorongoro Crater, a 100 square-mile “natural enclosure” formed three million years ago that features almost every individual animal species in east Africa L JEWELRY CONNECTION: Abundant gemstones including tanzanite and tsavorite PHOTO: ©GIA REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 15 hours ADVENTURE METER Extreme 9 Shovels, pry bars and picks are used to follow the gem-bearing veins (above). Masai traders show a parcel of tsavorite in Tanzania (top). PHOTO: ©GIA REPRINTED WITH PERMIS- SION IONS AND LEOPARDS and elephants and… tanzanite? Not only is east Africa (including Kenya and Tanzania) one of the most spectacular places in the world to visit in terms of flora and fauna, but it also boasts an incredible array of gemstones. “From rhodolite to tanzanite to tsavorite, everything comes out of east Africa,” Fiebig says. “There are beautiful hotels, the food is fantastic, and most people speak English because these were once British colonies.” In addition to the three mentioned above, other gemstones mined in the region include ruby, sapphire, emerald, amethyst, aquamarine, beryl, chrysoprase, peridot and tourmaline. Tanzania has mined diamonds for several decades and is the third-largest gold producer in Africa. American retailers can get the deal of a lifetime, Fiebig says, because of a lack of access to the market. “Some Sri Lankan dude will come in and pay $1 for a handful of rough, then sell it to an American for $100. That’s the economics of scale. You can pay them $3, make $100, and help support an African family while you’re at it,” he says. Aside from the affordability of the gemstones, one of the biggest draws is the tanzanite mines. Designer Erica Courtney says visiting a tanzanite mine is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. “The tanzanite grows in pockets of crystals among pyrite and rock crystals. You’re wearing a head lamp, so everything is glittering — it’s amazing to see,” she says. “It really gives you something to romance the stone when you go back to your store.” And if you ever wanted to see the inspiration for The Lion King in person, there’s nowhere like east Africa. “When people think about going on safari, they think about South Africa, but if I was going to Africa, I’m going to Arusha in Tanzania or Nairobi in Kenya,” Fiebig says. “If you take a safari there, you will see the big five (rhinoceros, lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo). That’s real Africa.” Fiebig plans to take a group of retailers to the first ever Arusha International Fair in Tanzania (www.arushagemshow. com) April 26-29, 2012. JULY 2011 61 MONTANA M ONTANA, home of Little Big Horn and Yellowstone National Park, is known as “The Treasure State.” But while the state’s flag may bear the words “Oro y Plata” (meaning “gold and silver”), what it’s best known for in jewelry circles today is its incredibly valuable Yogo sapphire, first discovered at Yogo Gulch in 1895. Unfortunately, the commercial Yogo mine is deep and dangerous, running nearly 400 feet deep into solid limestone. However, the plentiful Montana sapphire can be mined by the public in several dig-for-fee areas, and can be found in every hue. The best-known sapphire mine is the Spokane Bar mine, and the most commonly found color there is a green-blue shade, but under heat treatment the sapphires can be turned blue. Other gemstones that can be found at the mine, though uncommon, are diamond, topaz, citrine and ruby. Another interesting destination for jewelers are Montana’s gold mines, as the area enjoyed a gold rush in the 1860s and still produces a sizeable amount of gold. Additionally, the state’s palladium mine has a reputation for being environmentally friendly as well as profitable. ADVENTURE METER Moderate 5 JEWELRY CONNECTION: First gem-quality sapphires in the U.S. found here in 1865; site of 19th century gold rush PHOTO: Amber Roberts Miners extract palladium from the Stillwater Mine. In some areas, sapphires (inset) can be mined for a fee by the public. PHOTO: STILLWATER MINING COMPANY “We also have the Montana Museum of Mining in Butte, which features some great examples of semi-precious gems and precious metals, as well as a rip-roarin’ time,” says Claire Baiz, president of Big Sky Gold & Diamond. “Butte is host, in mid-July, to the National Folk Festival. It’s a great destination to learn about mining.” Baiz also recommends Last Chance Gulch in Helena, which celebrates the gold mining history of the area. “I know a fellow who has a major Montana sapphire wholesale biz out of Helena. He’d welcome potential clients,” Baiz says. “The fact that Helena is on one of the most beautiful drives in the lower 48 states and is midway between Glacier National Park and Yellowstone Park does not hurt its desirability as a pit stop, either.” JULY 2011 ARKANSAS Craters of Diamonds State Park is the only diamond-producing site in the world where the public can search for diamonds. Australia The Argyle mine in East Kimberley produces rough diamonds and is the primary source of pink diamonds. Basel Switzerland’s Baselworld (March 8-15, 2012) is the most influential trade show in the watch industry, featuring 2,000 exhibitors and 100,000 attendees. Beijing Don’t miss Cai Bai, China’s largest jewelry retailer, which reportedly does $1 billion in sales out of a single location. Lou Loader hand-selects sapphires at the Yogo mine. 62 MORE GETAWAY GEMS FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 3.5 hours DON’T MISS: Mining your own sapphires at the Spokane Bar mine Canada Yellowknife is dubbed “The Diamond Capital of North America” and features several diamond mines. Dubai A free trade environment, Dubai’s low import duty and no-tax policy makes it an ideal place to buy gold and jewelry. Hong Kong With 3,200 exhibitors from 46 countries, the Hong Kong Jewel- lery & Gem Fair (Sept. 19-25) is the world’s largest jewelry show. Idar-Oberstein Known as the capital of Germany’s gemstone industry, the city’s cutters fashion gemstones imported primarily from Brazil and Africa. Israel Tour the Israeli Diamond Center in Ramat Gan, which includes the Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Museum. Istanbul Experience the city’s history of jewelry craftsmanship at the Grand Bazaar, the world’s oldest mall, dating to 1453. N. Carolina Rock hounds can dig up more than 60 gemstones in opento-public mines. Singapore Singapore’s absence of duties and sales tax has made it a thriving center for jewelry trading. Vicenza Vicenza Oro takes place three times a year (next is Sept. 10-14). It’s a great place to experience the rich heritage of Italian jewelry. MADAGASCAR T FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 17.5 hours Plush accommodations in Antsiranana in the north of Madagascar are near demantoid garnet mines. PHOTO: JIM FIEBIG DON’T MISS: The Analamazoatra Reserve, home of the Indri (the largest species of lemur) and a variety of other wildlife endemic to Madagascar HE FOURTH-LARGEST island in the world, Madagascar separated from Africa approximately 165 million years ago, and its flora and fauna have evolved in isolation ever since, making it one of the most biologically diverse places on the planet. More important for jewelers, it’s one of the most geologically diverse places as well. “Every gemstone outside of tanzanite, zultanite and diamond is mined in Madagascar,” says Fiebig, who moved to the country for a time in order to serve as a guide for American retailers. In Madagascar, retailers can observe the grueling process by which the country’s gemstones are mined — and the beautiful results of those efforts. “You have to see what it takes to get this stuff out of the ground,” Fiebig says. “The workers go into this enormous hole of a mine and bring up all this dirt; then they go to the river and wash and sift, wash and sift. They wind up with a baby food jar filled with three to four gemstones, none of which will cut a carat. That’s a day’s work.” While the Malagasy people don’t generally speak English (Malagasy and French are the primary languages), they appreciate American visitors. “It’s the last frontier,” Fiebig says. “You’ll go places where you’re the first white person anyone’s ever seen. They can’t believe we’ll drink two beers or two coffees. When they see Americans, they behave the way we might act if we witnessed the royal wedding.” The average annual earnings per household are only $240, and 70 percent of Malagasies live below the poverty line, but Fiebig says American retailers are helping, not hurting, the locals by purchasing gemstones directly. “I tell retailers, ‘Don’t feel terrible! Buy more gemstones!’ You can buy gemstones at a price that pays Malagasy workers generously while still making an incredible profit when you bring them back to be cut and set. Diamonds or gold can’t make that kind of difference. You buy more garnets in Madagascar, and a kid somewhere is going to eat.” ADVENTURE METER Extreme One of Fiebig’s clients, Steve Moriarty, looks over a pile of Spessartite rough. PHOTO: JIM FIEBIG JEWELRY CONNECTION: Almost every species of gem is mined here, including half the world’s sapphires PHOTO: ©GIA REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION 10 INDIA JEWELRY CONNECTION: Cuts over half of the world’s diamonds; also known for gemstone cutting/ trading and distinctive jewelry T HERE MAY BE NO PLACE with more fingers in the jewelry industry pie than India, where diamonds were first mined as long as 2,500 years ago. Not only are 11 in every 12 diamonds polished there ... not only does the gem and jewelry industry employ 1.3 million people ... but the industry as a whole is worth $27 billion, and India is the fastest growing jewelry market in the world. Surat is India’s diamond processing hub, while Mumbai is angling to rival Antwerp for diamond trading. “It’s just incredible to see the sheer immenseness of 1,000 people working and how the diamonds go from cut to rough and out the door,” May says. He advises retailers to contact an Indian ADVENTURE METER Intense diamond dealer to get an itinerary made up. “They can roll out the red carpet for you,” he says. “You can see the Taj 7 Mahal while you’re at it.” When it comes to gemstone trading, Jaipur is one of the most well-known hubs in the world. The city boasts skilled artisans who cut and polish gemstones, as well as 64 JULY 2011 FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 16 hours DON’T MISS: The Bharat Diamond Bourse in Mumbai, the largest diamond exchange in the world, just opened in October 2010 numerous gem dealers. “Twenty years ago, we scoffed at anything cut in India,” Fiebig says, “but today, some of the best cutters in the world have trained these guys —they will cut gemstones exactly the way you want for more brilliance.” Most Indians speak English, making the country userfriendly for Americans, and transportation and accommodations are reliable. India International Jewellery Week takes place this year July 31-Aug. 4, followed by the show Aug. 4-8 in Mumbai. Both provide an excellent opportunity to see what the world’s most rapidly developing nation has to offer. NEW YORK “ JEWELRY CONNECTION: One of the largest diamond processing centers in the world and a nexus of worldrenowned fine jewelry stores IT’S THE PULSE OF THE INDUSTRY,” says Jonathan Landsberg, co-owner of Landsberg Jewelers in Rye Brook, NY, and son of venerable 47th Street icon Norman Landsberg of New York’s Diamond District. If you’re a jewelry retailer who’s never visited the District, that section of West 47th Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues in midtown Manhattan, then you’ve taken a huge piece of the jewelry industry’s past and present for granted. The value of a single day’s trade on the block averages $400 million by some reports. The current Diamond District, which moved to its current location in 1941, gained even greater importance during World War II when many Orthodox Jews fled Antwerp and Amsterdam to settle in New York City, bringing their expertise with them. “You can visit diamond cutter after diamond cutter after diamond cutter,” Landsberg says. “You can’t get that visual without going to New York. For me to have a ring sized and polished from our 47th Street store takes 15 minutes.” He adds that he’s seen more and more retailers coming to the Diamond District to take advantage of its unique advantages, such as direct diamond buying or better quality and more affordable repair work. Visiting retailers will also hear from “hawks,” people trying to sell diamonds or gold on the street. “The stories about guys showing you jewelry and diamonds inside their coats? All true,” Landsberg adds. He also touts the value of visiting landmark New York jewelry stores on Fifth and Madison avenues, as well as some of the high-end jewelry/clothing stores. “You learn that a woman who buys a certain pair of shoes will buy jewelry of a similar taste level, and that her husband can find something there as well,” Landsberg says. Additionally, interested retailers can shop arts and gallery stores in Soho. “You can get an entire overview of our industry in all of these areas of New York,” he says. ADVENTURE METER Easy 3 66 JULY 2011 SOUTH AFRICA W HEN DIAMONDS were discovered in the area around Kimberley in 1867, a diamond rush began that produced more diamonds in 15 years than all of India had produced in 2,000 years. The De Beers Mining Company, under the leadership of Cecil Rhodes, began to establish its stranglehold on the world diamond trade. Today, while South Africa is now only responsible for 15 percent of the world’s diamond supply, it remains one of the most interesting places to learn about the diamond mining process and its history. Howard and Vicki Cunningham of Cunningham Fine Jewelry in Tulsa, OK, visited the Cullinan mine, site of the discovery of the largest rough gem-quality diamond on Earth — a 3,106-carat stone. During the trip, Vicki noticed that some of her fellow retailers had brought customers with them. South Africa offers a combination of luxury and adventure. JEWELRY CONNECTION: 19th century diamond rush drastically altered supply and changed the way the world thought of diamonds; original home of De Beers FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 16 hours ADVENTURE METER Intense 8 “Those customers’ jaws were on the floor,” she says. “They couldn’t believe what it takes to find diamonds. Next time I go, I want to pick a couple of customers to go with us.” Cunningham says that customers back home love to browse the “look books” she put together of their trip to South Africa. “We also rotate the photos through a loop on our TV screens around the store,” she says. Additionally, Cunningham had her staff post daily updates to the store’s Facebook page of where she and Howard were each day and what they were doing, so that customers could follow their progress. The Cunninghams plan to make another trip soon. Last time, their host, SA Gems, treated them to a day at the beautiful and world-famous resort, Palace of The Lost City, near Johannesberg. “I love it in South Africa. Every time I’ve gone, it’s been awesome,” says Vicki. “I love the safari part of it, and I love the diamond experience as well.” DON’T MISS: “The Big Hole,” the original Kimberley Mine that covers 42 acres — one of the largest handdug holes in the world A De Beers worker in South Africa brings the sparkle out of a rough diamond. 68 JULY 2011 THAILAND L EGEND has it that a glowing rock appeared in the sky above Chanthaburi in Thailand, but when residents tried to touch it, the rock fled, dropping thousands of baby gemstones in its wake. Regardless of how the gemstones arrived, there’s no question that today, Thailand lives up to its self-proclaimed title of “World’s Gems and Jewelry Hub.” “At least 90 percent of the colored gemstones on Earth were cut in Thailand,” Fiebig says. Chanthaburi, a four-hour car ride from Bangkok, has been touted as the colored gem capital of the world. Rubies and sapphires were discovered and mined nearby in the mid-19th century, and today, traders from across the globe bring precious and semi-precious gemstones to Chanthaburi. “If you’re serious about buying colored gemstones, you can spend more money than you have in a weekend in Chanthaburi,” Fiebig says. But Thailand boasts more than just cut gemstones: Thais are some of the best jewelry craftsmen in the world. “The Thais know how to interpret our designs while maintaining our personality,” says Sam Koumi, president of Argento Vivo and S.K.F. International. “Their craftsmanship ADVENTURE METER Intense FLIGHT TIME FROM NEW YORK: 17.5 hours 8 DON’T MISS: The twice-yearly Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, featuring 1,200 exhibitors from 35 countries and 35,000 attendees is not cookie-cutter; there’s lots of feeling there.” Koumi adds that Thais are the friendliest people in all of Asia. “They’re open, honest, and they do their best to speak English to make it easier for Americans,” he says. The best time to visit the country is during the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, says Koumi. Fiebig agrees, encouraging retailers to pair a trip to the fall Bangkok fair (Sept. 14-18) with a visit to the Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair (Sept. 19-25). “If you like Asia and do a big buy, that’s a great week to go.,” he says. “You can buy more than you can anywhere else in the world in a short period of time.” JEWELRY CONNECTION: Huge source of manufacturing and trading of jewelry and gemstones, including some of the world’s best gemstone cutters PHOTOs: ©GIA REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION