The Official Newsletter of The Philadelphia MG Club, Inc.
Transcription
The Official Newsletter of The Philadelphia MG Club, Inc.
Volume 29 The Official The purpose of The Philadelphia MG Club is to provided its members with an opportunity for social interaction and a forum for the exchange of information pertinent to the appreciation, enjoyment, and preservation of their MGs. The Philadelphia MG Club, Inc. is a nonprofit corporation organized and existing under the laws of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania President: Steve Harding 610-275-7960 [email protected] Vice-President: Mark Johnson 610-754-9710 MarkMGBLE@aoLcom Secretary Larry Macy 215-275-2823 [email protected] Treasurer: Jim Craig 215-368-0367 [email protected] Board Members at Large: Glenn Davis 610-436-4400 [email protected] Bill Hixson 215-932-0295 [email protected] Gordon Todd 610-584-4671 [email protected] 2008 MG Enthusiasts of the Year: Kristi Liebel & Lambert Liebel Club Web Site: www.phillymgclub.com Newsletter of OctoberlNovember Numbers 10 & 11 The Philadelphia MG Club, Inc. WELCOME We welcome Tom Bostock (79 MGB), Doug & Diane Small (77 MGB), Scott & Paula Evans (80 MGB), and Bill & Peg Robinson (58 MGA) to the Club. CLUB "GET-TOGETHERS" We have a new "home" for our monthly "Get-Togethers" ("GTs") - Phil's Tavern in Blue Bell, PA. The restaurant is at the intersection of Skippack and Butler Pikes. Park in the parking lot across from the restaurant As usual, the "GTs" start at 8 PM. See you there. IN THE WINDSHIELD (Upcoming Events) The November event is the Fall MG vs. Triumph Rally, on the 2nd - the Sunday that we put our clocks back an hour - so don't forget to do that or you won't show up on time! Mark McCarraher is the Rallymaster and has set up the Rally to end at the Boyertown Car Museum - not to be missed. The starting point for the Rally will be behind the new Wawa at the intersection of Ridge Pike and Lewis Road, just west of the Limerick Diner and next to a breakfast/luncheonette. car off at We will meet at 9 AM, with Driver'slNavigator's Meeting at 9:30, 10. The cost is $10 per person - to cover the cost of admission to the Museum and a hoagie lunch at the Museum. Our December event is the Annual Octagonal Holiday Lunch, on the 14th, week in at Northside Ortino's in Zeig1ersville. mvitations will be sent the November. IN THE REAR VIEW MIRROR (Past Events) On September 27th the MGs of Baltimore Club put on their annual "MGs on the Rocks" Car Show and a few intrepid Philadelphia MG Club members made the soggy trip down to Maryland for the Show. This Show usually attracts close to 200 cars, but this year because of the rain there were only 69 cars. Here is Kristi Liebel's report about the "Rocks" Show: "There were a few of us who braved the weather: Lambert, Wynter & Kristi Liebel (MG Midgets), Ryan & Annie Kubanoff (MG Midget), George Burton (MGB/GT), Jim Witte (without his MGB), and Bill & Peg Robinson (MGA.) Actually the weather was okay in PA, but when we got close to the Park the rain started. It rained on and off all day. It was probably one of the most tiring and gloomy Shows that we have attended. First Place went to George with his "Diamond in the Rough" BGT. Kristi & Wynter won Third for Chrome Bumper MG Midgets, and Lambert won Third for the Rubber Bumper Midgets. Bill & Peg took Second in the MGA class. That was all that we got, except for puddles in our cars and water in our shoes!" The other September Club event was the Radnor Hunt Car Show . See Glenn Davis' report about the Show further on in the newsletter. Our October Club event was our "Brits at the Village" British Car & Bike Show at Peddler's Village in Lahaska, PA. A comprehensive report will appear in the December newsletter. TECHNICAL ARTICLE This month's Technical Article, "Keeping Cool," is from the November 2008 issue of "Classic Motorsports" magazine. If you are wondering why there is an article about cooling systems in a fall newsletter just check out the box at the bottom of the last page of the article. BUSINESS MEETINGS & MINUTES We will continue to discuss business at the montWy "GTs." We have set aside half an hour (8:30 to 9:00) for business. We will discuss any business any Club member wishes to discuss. If you can't make the "GT" but want something discussed call (610-275-7960) or e-mail ([email protected]) me with your topic. Our new Club Secretary, Larry Macy, will have business meeting minutes available for your reading at any "GT" or call him for a copy. CLUB E-MAIL & WEB SITE ADDRESSES Larry Macy has set up a Club E-mail address so that Club members can communicate with each other about problems with MGs, plans to caravan to events, etc. If you'd like to be added to the list just send Larry an E-mail requesting inclusion at his "new" E-mail [email protected]. Also, Larry has arranged for Club members to have their own phillymgclub e-mail addresses. To get your own send Larry an e-mail at his e-mail address. The Club's Web site is www.phillymgclub.com and will soon undergo a makeover. EMBROIDERY SERVICE & CLUB HATS Because of family health problems Club member, Ed Bullard, and his wife, Pat, the Club's embroiderers, may not be able to make the "GTs" as often as they have in the past. The Bullards will still be able to embroider shirts, but it would be best to check with them fust. Their phone number is 610-367 2809. We still have a few Club hats with the Club logo on them. Hats earn you 10 points towards the "MG Enthusiast of Year" Award. They cost $10 and can be purchased at any Club event. IN CLOSING I hope to see you at the Fall MG vs. Triumph Rally - where we will (hopefully) retain the "Lucas Cup." W e've all been there, bl iss full y ing along in our classics only to corne to a halt thanks to a steam ing, hissing radiator. Once car stopS roil ing, the next step is usually to pop the hood and blame something beneath it. In teal ity, the blame lies with us owners. A cooling system is fairly simple in terms of cause and effect. but allowing just one link in the chain to falter can lead to problems. When time to troubleshoot or improve a cooling system. many people misunderstand the basic thermodynamic principles involved and waste time, money or some combination of both. We're here to help. Hot Topic Before you can think about keeping your engine cool, you need to know why it gets hot in the first place. One is directly correlated to the other. Our cars run on rhe Otto thermodynamic cycle. described and developed in the 19th century by German inventor Nikolaus Otto. The Otto cycle is perhaps best known for describing the action of a four-stroke engine. MGB Horsepower 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 Whatever your car's power output, not making peak horse power all of the e, 50 it doesn't always need maximum capacity. In the ( of our MGB, inf Oi ll p ill starts near lO dl l' I builds to s IIIdX III II II il power rvel O., II engine e!:, Kdse 20 10 -. o Classic Molorsporls 107 power to idle and about 15 to 20 to cruise. Lesser known, but germane this is where the heat of combustion goes. The engine will produce more power and heat, The good news is that engines turn heat but only under brief periods of acceleration. into power. The bad news is that only about Most radiators can absorb this incremental power at the one-third of that heat turns increase in heat. crank. Another third of the heat goes straight Let's say someone convinced us switch out the exhaust pipe. The last third goes an electric fan since the engine fans usually rob some power. After the change, we're suddenly the cooling system. running very hot at idle. Is it because of the Engineers and mechanics have been work power upgrade? No, the Otto thermodynamic ing for more than a century to make engines than this, bur the truth is that more cycle tells us we can't be making any more they've only made slight progress. Some of the power and heat at idle. The problem must lie engines our there don't with the fan. If it's not pulling its weight most of their heat and power or, more appropriately, pulling enough air even send 40 the crankshaft. through the radiaror-then the car will run think a little further: How much hOI at idle. Now power and corresponding heat does a Understanding how the system works can car generate? We're going to use a basically stock make for quick detective work when prob example. 93-horsepower MGB as our lems arise. Now let's get a little deeper into We put data acquisition equipment on the the subject and discuss the basics of our MGB and found that during aggressive street cooling system. driving, the car spends about 30 percent of its time at or near idle thanks to stoplights, traffic A Collection of Parts and coasting a halt. The car spends about A cooling system is made of a radiator, water of its time at cruise, with only the 60 pump, thermostat, coolant, some hoses tie remaining 10 percent of its time under accel everything together and usually a fan or two. eration or load. Each of these components must be sized and While it seems obvious assume we have a matched to each other and their applicarions. If there's a failure in the system, you could find 93-horsepower MGB all the time, the truth is that we only have that 93 horsepower for short yourself on the side of the road. bursts of time-at high engine speeds and under hard acceleration. The rest of the time Radiator: Radiators come in ' two basic have a pretty low-horsepower engine. styles. Older vehicles use down-flow radiators, Some more figures know: only takes where the coolant flows from the top of the radiator to the bottom. Newer vehicles tend abOUt 5 horsepower keep engine idling. use cross-flow radiators, where the coolant When the car is cruising on a level surface, it enterS on one side and exits our the other. only needs about J 5 20 horsepower keep rolling-that's why your foot doesn't have to These radiarors are often wider than they are push pedal tall, and they're usually more efficient than The accelerator pedal could also be called their down-flow counterparts. "horsepower pedal" or "heat pedal," as The most common materials used in older cars are copper and brass. The cores it limits the peak power (and heat) engine makes. This actually makes our are made of copper due to its excellent con MGB more efficient, as it only uses the power ductivity, while the tanks are made of brass current operation. Instead of since copper would quickly harden and break. it needs for wasting 93 horsepower of fuel , wear and hear Unfortunately, brass and copper radiarors when idling, it only uses 5 horsepower. And weigh quite a bit. instead of wasting 93 horsepower just to cruise Aluminum radiators weigh less, but they along, it only uses J5 20. are technically not as efficient-aluminum When we mash the pedal to accelerate, has a lower heat transfer rate than copper. we're still not making our fuji 93 horsepow However, a well-engineered aluminum radia er-at kast not right away. We're making will often outperform an OEM brass and the power that is somewhat proportional copper unit. engine's speed , as. shown in our horsepower A third style of radiator has found its way into a large part of 's production curve. For example, at 2500 rpm under load, cars, including some of our classics from the we're making 50 horsepower. Moving up the tachometer, at 3500 rpm we're making 75 " late '70s and early '80s like the VW Rabbit and Mazda RX-7. Japanese manufacturers horsepower, while our MGB's peak 93 horse pioneered compact, high-efficiency radiators. power comes at 5000 rpm. Now, take our 93-horsepower MGB They usually have aluminum cores fitted with and port the cylinder head, increase the com efficient, tightly spaced fins and tubes mated plastic tanks. pression ratio and install a more aggressive camshaft. These upgrades will increase the Radiator Cap: No matter what the radiator car's horsepower to J 15. Will it need a bigger radiator? Probably construction, the cap does more than just plug of unit. also pressurizes the cool not. If the car is driven in the same manner the as before, it will still only need about 5 horse raise the boiling point ing system in order the track-a coolant booster plus water is a popular cooling system recipe.) Don't use these products to try to cure other problems. Remember, you need to treat the cause, not the symprom. If your cooling system passes inspection, then these products usually make it wotk a little better, If your cooling sys tem has a leak, a plugged radiator or a similar issue, then you have other problems to fix. of coolant. For every pound of re the radiaror cap holds, the boiling point is raised 3 degrees Fahrenheit. Our newer classics have caps in the 10 to 15 psi range, thus raising boiling point 30 ro 45 otten have lower ptessurized degrees. Older systems-4 ro 6 psi is common. Really old cars have open systems-no pressure at all-which don't benefit an boiling point. 011 Water Pump: Water pumps are often driven via a belt and pulley. Most by the water pumps ate cast from iron or aluminum and will have cast or stamped impellers. When fail, either leak at their seals, wobble at their bearings or both. Thermostat: Thermostats regulate the flow of coolant through the engine and radiator. A cylinder filled with expanding wax pellets causes a pisron found inside the thermostat ro open at a predetermined poim--commonly 160, 180 or 195 degrees Fahrenheit. A thermostat stays closed at warm-up ro bring the engine up to its ideal operating temperature as quickly as possible. Once the engine is warmed up, the thermostat opens to regulate the flow of water our of the engine and through the radiaror. The thermostat ensures that the warm coolant cools off suffi ciently in the radiaror before it heads back into the engine. When the thermostat is closed, engine through a water recirculates within bypass line in the thermostat housing. A common trick, especially on race cars, is ro remove the thermostat. This trick is rarely beneficial and is not recommended since a properly operating thermostat does nothing but help petformance. We highly recommend that you keep your thetmostat. However, if you must remove it, ir's importanr ro replace ir a resrricror, a componem thar resembles a large flow of coolant washer. The resrricror slows and helps ro control the foaming that occurs unrestricted. when a rhermostat housing is Coolant: The coolant found in the radiaror and cooling system is usually a 50/50 mix of water and ethylene-glycol, the latrer commonly known as antifreeze or engine coolant. Coolant rechnology has greatly improved in recent years, mainly in corrosion resistance and environmen friendliness. is a misnomer, as this all-importam liquid both lowers the point and raises the boiling point of the coolant. Always maintain a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. Too little coolant can lead ro freezing and overheating, as well as corrosion problems. Too much usually leads ro overheating. Coolant boosters like Red Line WaterWetter, DEI Radiator Relief and Royal Purple Purple Ice also .exist, and these productS lower coolant temperatures by reducing surface tension. Some designed ro reduce corrosion and lubri are cate the water pump. (Since many racing regu lations prohibit cars from running coolant-it can cause a very slippery mess should any land ..................................................................... .............. ... ........... ..................................................................... The factory installed ashroud inside the Triumph TR6's engine compartment to direct all the incoming air through the radiator. Air that's allowed to bypass the radiator doesn't help cool the engine. Fan: The radiator doesn't do much good unless thete is air flowing through it. To help, most cars have a fan or two. Fans are powered by either the engine or an electric moror, and each type has its advantages and disadvantages. Engine-driven fans gener move more air through the radiator, bur can be guilry of robbing small amounts of power and running inefficiently at low engine speeds, like idle. Electric fans can be mounted forward or aft the radiator. Front-mounted fans are called pusher fans, while rear-mounted fans are called pullers. Puller fans are bener since they block less airflow most pushers, but they're often tougher to mount because of engine clearance issues. Generally, electric fans are mote helpful for cooling an engine at lower speeds, while engine-driven fans work better ar higher speeds. A few sundries complere cooling system. Many systems have shrouds around the fans to bener direct airflow. Cars with engine driven fans often have a fan clutch ro prevenr parasitic loss at higher engine speeds. Cars electric fans usually have a thermostatic switch so the fan will only turn on when ir's needed. Expansion tanks are common additions. They catch the small amount of over flow thar results when coolant expands as it's heated. These tanks allow the r:ldiator to recover this overflow when ir cools down. Of course, street cars usually have a hearer and at least one heater valve to regulate flow. System Now we've covered the basics of how a cooling system works, start the trouble shooting process. There are two tools that come in handy when troubleshooting. The first rool is a digital infrared thermom eter, and you can buy a nice one for abour $30. The useful tool is a ptessure tester prices starr at $75, bur some auto parts srores have loaners available. You can probably get by without the pressure tester, bur you'll never to its regret buying the thermometer wide range of uses. The first thing most people blame when thermostat, there's a cooling problem is followed quickly by radiator. While rhese are some other are good places to inspect, basic components to check out first. Step one is to determine if the engine is overheating. Don't JUSt trusr the gauge, which can otten be inaccurate. Confirm its accutacy by checking various locations in the drivetrain with your infrared thermometer. Good spots to check are the rop and bottom of the radiator, cylinder head, the block and the thermostat opening. As a rule of thumb. if an engine is nor boiling over-meaning it's not puking ontO the ground-it's not overheating. car is overheat Many people worry that ing if the coolanr temperature goes above 190 or 200 degrees. While this can be discomfort ing, it takes about 250 degrees to start damaging an engine. Most classic cars normally run at around 180 degrees, but temperatures 10 or 20 degrees higher do not necessar ily mean there is a problem. In fact, engines are technically more efficient at higher remperatures-that's why many long as rhe car not modern cars run above 200 degrees. boiling over, a few extra degrees could actually be helping. When it. comes ro coolant temperatures, the most important thing ro keep in mind is consistency. If the car normally runs around 200 and is not boiling over, it's However, if the car usu probably nothing ro worry aJJy runs around 180 but is hitting 210 on hot days and at idle, there might be an issue. Once you've determined that there is, in fact, a problem, ensure that rhe cooling sysrem is absolutely full with a 50/50 mix of water and coolanr. If the system is not full, air pockets can cause flow problems, hold steam or both. When filling a cooling system, make sure the heater valve is open so you're filling the entire system . Then squeeze the upper hose ro feel that there is coolant inside of it. Now check rhe coolant. Ir should be green, not brown, and a hydromerer will tell you its general condition. If the coolant fails the test, dispose of it responsibly (animals find coolant tasty yet lethal) and replace it. The next step might sound obvious, but it's imporrant: Check forleaks in the system, no matter how small. Even a pinhole leak causes two different problems : First, the system won't stay full. Second, the leak will not allow the system ro build pressure, reducing the boiling point significantly. If you find a leak visually, use your pressure tester to pressurize the system. This should help locate the leak. If that doesn't work, it might be time to perform a leakdown test and see if coolant is getting into the engine via blown gaskets or a warped or cracked head. The engine must also be in a good state of tune. Lean fuel mixtures and over-retarded or over-advanced are notorious for causing overheating, but any poor run ning condition can exacerbate cooling problems. Next, check or replace the thermostar. Starr the engine cold and use your infrared thermometer ro moniror the temperature of the block and thermostat housing. LEFT: The digital infrared ,thermometer is your best friend for trouble .shooting cooling system issues. Here we're checking the tempera ture of the engine block It up, You can buy infrared for $30. RIGHT: (001 nt upper the hose is effective and easy way to make sure the long as the thermostat is closed, the thermostat system is full. ABOVE: housing will stay at or slightly above air temperature, A simple pressure tester thermo can help diagnose Meanwhile, the block will warm up stcadily. If stat is working properly, the temperaturc of the thermostat cooling system leaks. housing and the block will be cqual when the thermostat Don't want to buy one? auto parts stores opens. In other words, when the block hits 180 degrees, the thermostat will open and the thermostat housing will have loaners available. go from 90 degrees to 180. And as we already discussed, : It trick, don't be tempted to remove the thermostar. If yours doesn't but this electric fan led to cooling problems. pass muster, replace it. Look at airflow next. Before you blame the fan, make First, its mounting loca sure rhat the grille and radiator slats are clean. Bugs and tion at the front of the other road trash, especially on radiator slats, can signifi radiator was blocking cantly inhibit airflow. A trip ro the pay-'n'-spray car wash airflow. Second, it didn't move nearly as can quickly blow everything clean. air can get out of the engine much air as the stock, Next, check to see important for air ro escape the engine-driven piece. compartment. It's JUSt ... engine compartment as it is ro get in. If you or anyone else has made modifications that prevent the air from leaving, thar might be your problem. Now srarr thinking about rhe fan. If the car has its original fan (or fans) and they're properly working, then the problem probably isn't here. Engine-driven fans on our classics are always very robust and consistently do the job-that is, until they turn about 50 years old. By this age, it's possible that their fans have become bent or out Classic Motorsports 111 of balance. Th'e fan rivers might also be loose. Periodically inspect your car's fan-you don't a blade flying off. Original equipment electric fans also tend be very robust. long as the fan's electric thermostat is turning it off and on in spec and the motor 'is spinning the fan quickly enough, the fan is most likely working as intended. Aftermarket electric fans are another story. We've rarely seen an aftermarket fan as efficieilt as OEM counterpart. a result, we've fixed scores of cooling problems by removing usually undersized aftermarket units and purring OEM fans back in. If you feel that you must use an aftermarket fan, make sure buy biggest, best-flowing fan you can-the cheap ones just don't do the job. Once you've checked each of these points, suspect radiator. it's finally time engine at operating temperarure, take your infrared thermometer and scan various parts of the radiator. Temperatures should be consis- . tent with slightly higher numbers on the inlet end-a variance of 10 to 20 degrees ftom inlet outlet is common. You might find spots where the radiator is at ambient air tempera ture. This is a sure sign of clogged tubes, mean ing the radiator is not working at capacity. At this point, getting the radiator repaired, recored or replaced altogether might be your only solution. If you're considering a new replacement, do some research .first. Some of replacements on the market are coming from Third World sources, and their quality great. If that's the case, your isn't option. radiator recored is probably a You'll note we haven't spent much time on water pump. It's very rare for water pumps be problem, as long as they're leaking. Every now and then a water pump impeller will come loose. If happens, you'll have a radical and obvious overheating problem you should be able diagnose your infrared thermom thermostat will eter. The engine will get hot, radiator won't warm up. open, but Cooling Runnings Now that we've gone through theory, prac tice and diagnostics, you've hopefully gained knowledge thar will help your car keep its thermo cool. If you keep in mind the dynamic cycle and understand what's ducing the heat and when, you'll be more skilled at preventing issues with your .. cooling system. And that means miles of trouble-free driving. But It's Almost Fall Fall is just around the corner, so it's okay to put off that cooling system work, right? Wrong. Get the system ready now, and come spring you'll be out driving around instead of waiting for parts to arrive. IN MEMORIUM Our new Editor and Club member since 2000, Dave Ushler, passed away October 6th. Although Dave had been fighting cancer for awhile, many of us (including his family) believed death would be further away than it was. Dave worked for Lucent (formerly Bell Labs) until he went on disability. One of his jobs at Lucent was editor of their in-house newsletter. When he retired for Lucent he volunteered to take over the Club newsletter editorship - mostly for something to do with his time. In fact, Dave put together the September newsletter while he was in the hospital having radiation treatments. Dave joined the Club in late October 2000 after attending our car show, then know as "MGs at Mercer," as we then held the show at the Moravian Pottery and Tile Works in Doylestown. He was somewhat active in the Club - I recall his attending some rallies - but I found at at his Memorial Service that he very much eulogy enjoyed his blue 1972 MGB. His nephew mentioned in that "Uncle Dave" was known by two initials - M and G! At the time of his death he and I were working on a special MG 2008 newsletter - you might remember Dave lurking about hundreds of pictures of the goings on! during MG 2008, Dave will be greatly missed, not just as an enthusiastic Club member and our Editor, but in his inspiration as he battled his cancer. In Loving Memory of DAVID 1. USHLER OCTOBER 2008 To those I and those who me When I am gone, release let me go. I have so many things to see and do. You mustn't tie yourself to me with tears, Be happy that we had so many years. I gave you my love, you can only guess How much you gave to me in happiness. I thank for the love you have shown But now time I travel on alone. So grieve awhile for if grieve you must Then let your grief be comforted by trust. only for a little while that we must So bless the memories within your heart . I won't be far away, for life goes on. if you need call and I will come. Though you see or touch 111 be near. And if you 1isten with your heart you'll hear All of my love around you soft and dear. And when you must come this way alone 111 greet you with a smi1e and 'Welcome Joseph A. Richboro, PA 215-968-8585 Funeral Home New Britain, PA 215-340-9654 MGs AT RADNOR HUNT By: Glenn Davis The Radnor Hunt Club Concours d'Elegance is a 3 day event (this year September 12, 13 and 14) which culminates with a world class car show on Sunday held on the stately grounds of the Radnor Hunt Club in Malvern, Pennsylvania. The event kicked off with a Welcome Barbeque on Friday evening presented by Victory Brewing Company (a micro brewery in Downingtown, PA). On Saturday, a road rally was held on the beautiful back roads of Chester County which ended with a buffet picnic lunch. On Saturday evening their was a black tie art show and cocktail reception, featuring the automotive artwork of artist Roger Blanchard. Mr. Blanchard personally attended the art show and was available to discuss one-on-one his pictures and method of painting. There were also original works of his available for sale. The art show was immediately followed by a gala and silent auction. 1934 MG-PA/B Lemans by Roger Blanchard The Concours d'Elegance on September 14 was attended by several members of the Philadelphia MG Club including Richard Williamson (1966 MGB); Steve Harding (1974 1/2 MGB GT); Gordon Todd (1954 MGTF); Allen Venditti (1980 MGB); Ken Collins (1973 MGB GT); AI French (1979 MGB LE); Jim Witte (1977 MGB); Bill and Peg Robinson (1958 MGA); Mark and Lynn Johnson (1968 MGC); and Don Scholl (MGTC). Although it was a wann day the crowds came out in record numbers to view the superb collection of world condition classic cars and motorcycles which ranged from a 1932 MG Jl Sports Tourer to a 1966 Corvette Penske Sunoco L-88 Sting Ray and everything in between. Among the one hundred cars, the Morris Garage marque was well represented. In addition to the Sports Tourer, there was an MGB, a 1935 MG P, and an MGA. There are clearly cars in our membership that are worthy of being included in the 2009 show and thought should be given to nominating PMGC members' cars for next year. The crowd also was able to view the wares of a variety of vendors. New automobiles were on site, some of which were available for a test drive. Aston Martin, Bendey, Rolls Royce and Lotus, among others, had their latest models on display. There was also a display of ornate horse drawn carriages (including horses) driven and occupied by individuals in period costume. Two food tents insured that the crowd did not go hungry or (the beverage selection included a "never empty" commemorative glass pint of Victory draft beer). An elegant VIP sit down lunch was also available. In addition to the concours cars, the Club Field (a special parking area for car clubs to display their autos) had an impressive collection of MGs (including a PMGC tent), Jaguars, Porsches, Rolls Royce, and others. I was advised by Bill O'Connell, rally chairman and member of the Radnor Hunt Concours d'Elegance Committee, that the intent is to make the Club Field a permanent part of the yearly event. The concurs judges cast their ballots and selected a 1947 Delahaye 135M Cabriolet as the "Best of Show." The selection for the motorcycles went to a 1965 Ducati Desmo. 1947 Delahaye 135M This was a superbly organized and well run event which was of great interest to auto enthusiasts and I encourage PMGC members to consider attending this event in 2009. --- .... - - - - --The Philadelphia MG Club, Inc. 104 Valley View Road East Norriton, PA 19401-1844 -- --- - --- - - - The Philadelphia MG Club's Web Site: