Wales View - Visit Wales

Transcription

WalesView 2015
WalesView 2015
W
e took our cover photo on a glorious
late-summer day at Llanddwyn
Island, on the southern shores of
Anglesey. It’s a magical spot, which we chose for all
sorts of reasons: the beach, the mountain backdrop,
the old lighthouse, the quality of the light. Nearby,
there are the ruins of an ancient chapel dedicated
to the Welsh patron saint of lovers, St Dwynwen.
Gorgeous as it is, Llanddwyn wasn’t the only
contender. It’s always a big debate at Visit Wales:
where to shoot our cover picture. We’ve all got our
own favourite places, depending on which part of
Wales we’re from, where we went on holiday as
kids, and where we go now.
But this picture does capture beautifully what it
feels like at the end of a perfect day, in your own
perfect place. This magazine is full of days like this,
and places in which to spend them.
visitwales.com
Royal Welsh: HRH Prince Charles shares his favourite places in Wales
Bear in the Beacons: a wild weekend at the Bear Grylls Survival Academy
Food of love: a gastronomic tour of West Wales
What’s on 2015: it’s a big, busy year ahead
Plus travel and holiday information –– visitwales.com
Have you
packed
for Wales?
W
Contents
e don’t just mean flip-flops,
walking boots and spare
underwear (although they’d all
II I
IIII
I
be handy). We mean a sense of
adventure, an open mind, and an
appetite for discovery.
I I
I
I II
I II I
I
II
It has certainly been a year of
54
wonders for us. Good grief, we
live here, and yet we’re constantly
amazed by new experiences. For
18
instance, we learnt tons about our
I
I
I
landscape (and ourselves) on a Bear
I
I
Grylls survival weekend, deep in
Waterfall Country. We had a blast at
festivals like Hay, Abergavenny Food
I
and Green Man, which seem to get
I
I
18 Wild at heart
head-over-heels with the place. In the
same spirit, we asked a couple of local
boys, the naturalist Iolo Williams and
broadcaster Huw Stephens, to share
their own favourite spots.
6 Light fantastic
We’ve also got a very special guest
Front cover image: Llanddwyn Island, Anglesey – Kiran Ridley
contributor: HRH Prince Charles, who
shares a lifetime’s love of the Welsh
landscape acquired over his 55 years
We couldn’t fit everything in, of
much we enjoyed underground
go online to visitwales.com.
We’re packed. Are you?
To the lighthouse! A coastal tour of
our leading lights.
You can take the boy out of Cardiff,
but there’s still no place like home for
BBC Radio 1’s Huw Stephens.
26 Cross country
HRH The Prince of Wales shares his
favourite places in Wales and opens
up his own rural hideaway.
The naturalist Iolo Williams takes
us on a guided tour of his favourite
wildlife spots.
12 Proof of the pudding
28 What’s on in 2015
riding the world’s fastest zip wires, or
a myriad other activities and events,
24 Bright lights
trampolining in a vast slate cavern, or
dolphin-spotting in Cardigan Bay, and
Food writer Xanthe Clay has travelled
the world in search of great flavours
– and she found them by the plateful
in West Wales.
16 Feast your eyes
The Abergavenny Food Festival is the
biggest day in a year-round calendar
of foodie events and farmers’ markets.
I II I I
Wild swimming in hidden coves,
secret waterfalls and crystal
mountain lakes.
8 The Prince’s passions
as Prince of Wales.
course. If you want to hear how
A wild, wet weekend at the Bear
Grylls Survival Academy is a brilliant
bonding experience for a dad and
his daughter.
I
I
2 A Bear in the Beacons
Keep your diary clear. There’s a big,
busy year ahead.
40 Everyone’s a winner
We don’t like to brag, but we do
seem to have won quite a lot of
awards recently.
II
tour of West Wales, and to see her fall
II
writer Xanthe Clay on a gastronomic
II
love, so we were delighted to take food
II
I
I
I
I
8
I
I I
The greatest joy of our job is
introducing visitors to things that we
I I I II
better every year.
I
I
58
40
44
48
26
16
44 Sailing on a cloud
58 Walk the walk
We sent the killer from TV’s
Broadchurch and a cop from
Hinterland on holiday together.
Fortunately, in real life they’re
married with kids. Phew.
What’s your favourite Welsh walk?
That’s the question we asked
our social media followers, and
they came up with some brilliant
suggestions.
48 Tour de forts
62 Essential information
We’ve got more castles per square
mile than any country in the world.
Which of our 641 fortresses is your
favourite?
50 Pilgrim’s progress
The Rev Lionel Fanthorpe finds
inspiration in the ancient abbeys
and simple rural churches of
Monmouthshire.
54 Mud, sweat and gears
The Athertons are Britain’s greatest
mountain-biking dynasty, who
moved to Wales for our worldbeating trails. Very glad to have you.
Meet our holiday areas, and find out
everything you need to know about
getting here and getting around.
Visit Wales cannot guarantee the accuracy or reliability of
the information in this publication and hereby disclaim any
responsibility for any error, omission or misrepresentation.
To the fullest extent permitted by law all liability for loss,
disappointment, negligence or other damage caused by reliance
on the information contained in this guide is excluded. You are
advised to check all details and information with the business
concerned before confirming a reservation. All rights reserved.
Material in this publication must not be reproduced in any form
without permission from the copyright owners – please contact
Visit Wales. Opinions expressed in Wales View are not necessarily
those of Visit Wales.
Wales View is published by Visit Wales, the Tourism and
Marketing division of the Welsh Government ©2015.
Visit Wales, Welsh Government, QED Centre, Main Avenue,
Treforest Industrial Estate, Treforest, Pontypridd CF37 5YR
(WG22462)
Print ISBN: 978-1-4734-2537-8 | Digital ISBN: 978-1-4734-2536-1
68 Wales map
Managing Editors: Iestyn George and Charles Williams
Printed by Stephens & George Ltd
It’s a map. And handily, it’s of Wales.
Designed by Escape to Design
Photography
Crown copyright (2014) Visit Wales
Other photographic sources: James Dexter, Football Association
Wales, Robert Gale, Mark Greenwood, Andrew Hazard,
Paul Highnam, A Lavadinho / H. Magalhaes, John Lucas,
Rafal Maciejczyk, Steve Malpass, Dan Marsh,
Mel Parry Event Photography, Keith Morris, Warren Orchard,
Philip Roberts Photography, Maryke Phillips, Chris Pritchard,
Leigh Sherrett, Skyscapes by Escape to Design.
This publication is also available in Braille, large-format print, and/
or audio from Visit Wales.
[email protected]
Printed on recycled paper
visitwales.com
1
s
n
o
c
a
Be
A BEAR IN THE
The adventurer Bear Grylls has set up a Survival Academy in
Wales, teaching outdoor skills in the stunning surroundings of
the Brecon Beacons. For Charles Williams and his daughter
Elizabeth it was the toughest and most intense 24 hours of
their lives… and they loved every moment.
The adventure begins! Five family groups set off into the woods,
Captions tbc
far from the nearest supermarket.
12 2
visitwales.co.uk
visitwales.com
M
y eight-year-old daughter has
a picture of Bear Grylls on her
bedroom wall, which miffs me
slightly. She doesn’t have one of me. She’s
seen every one of his TV programmes, in
which he charges around the wilderness,
biting the heads off things and crossing icy
torrents in his pants.
Rather you than me, mate. But now the
Bear Grylls Survival Academy has set up
camp in the Brecon Beacons – specifically,
one of my favourite bits, the Waterfall
Country on the south-west edge of the
National Park. They do a special ‘24 Hour
Family Course’ for parents and children.
Well, we’ve just got to try it, haven’t we?
We arrive at Pontneddfechan Village
Hall on a blustery April morning, where
five adults and their offspring will spend a
day and night in the wild, being taught the
full monty of survival skills including, we
suspect, crossing icy torrents in our pants.
Our fellow adventurers are from London
and the Home Counties, with offspring
ranging from ten to teens. Our instructors,
meanwhile, are local lads led by Jeff, a
tough ex-Royal Marine Commando who
appears to have been hewn out of boulders
and timber. Our ropes expert and chef, Rob,
is a friendly Welsh Guardsman who (cue
awed respect from the juniors) lost most
of one hand to a bullet in Iraq. Then there’s
John, an ex-RAF mountain rescue man, and
a couple of local outdoor enthusiasts.
garlic) for our supper, and nibble at wood
sorrel and hawthorn leaves. When we’ve
gathered enough herbage, we set off along
the river, where dippers and wagtails flit
among the rocks. Instructor Owen is about
to hurdle the rotten carcass of a fallen tree
when he calls us to an abrupt halt. “Here’s a
stroke of luck,” he says. He peels back a flap
of decayed bark. It’s riddled with mealworms,
a wiggling mass of beetle larvae. “Who wants
to try one?” The adults look at each other
tentatively. Junior hands shoot up. Hmm.
They’re not as bad as they look, actually.
Barely an hour into the adventure, and
we’re already turning into something else,
something other than our usual urban selves.
OVER THE CHASM
We’re all kitted out in Bear Grylls-branded
gear: 30-litre rucksack, helmet, harness,
water bottle and canteen. There’s a
firesteel for the juniors and, for the adults,
a pleasingly big knife. Then it’s off into the
woods alongside the fast-flowing waters of
the Nedd Fechan, or Neath River.
Sure enough, it’s not long before the first
of many waterfalls appears. It’s so pretty,
you hardly notice the rope that is slung
ominously over the chasm. It’s not there
by accident. One at a time, we clip on to
the rope and launch ourselves into the air,
gliding 30ft (9m) above the rapids. This is
the first of very many obstacles that we’ll
encounter during the next 24 hours.
Back down at the river, we’re taught how
to filter river water into our canteens, which
we’ll purify later. Then we have a lesson in
foraging for edible goodies that abound in
the lush valley floor. We gather ransoms (wild
Top: Always filter and purify your water. You don’t know where it’s been - or what’s been in it.
Above: Ben (ten) king of the swingers.
More rope challenges follow, until we
finally climb out of the gorge and towards
our camp, marked by a fluttering Bear Grylls
flag. It doesn’t look like any other campsite
I’ve seen. It’s a rough upland field, boggy
and forlorn. There’s nothing there apart
from a few gnarled trees, one of which has
recently fallen over, and a few roughly sawn
pine trunks.
We’re given three tarpaulins, a reel of
paracord, and an hour to make somewhere
dry to sleep. Go! A lot of sawing, sweating,
swearing and knot-tying later, we have
three structures that faintly resemble
shelters. We’ve filled in the ‘walls’ as best we
can on three sides, but all three shelters are
completely open on the downwind side.
We gather armfuls of dead bracken to line
the floors as bedding. Luxury.
Then we’re summoned back to the
lower swamp for a lesson in knot-tying
and knife skills, and scour the surrounding
woodland for timber to stoke the fire
before supper.
visitwales.com
3
Time to make your bed. Literally.
Hot chocolate has never, ever tasted this good.
When you’re this far from the warmth
of your own kitchen, with its Aga and
fancy coffee machine, your perspective
changes entirely. Tonight, instant coffee
with powdered milk, drunk from a mess tin,
is the best drink in the world. Rob’s stew,
a one-pot slop of chicken legs boiled up
on the fire with hacked veg and foraged
greens, is a gourmet feast. The trout,
wrapped in wild garlic and steamed in moss,
deserves its own TV food programme.
it has stopped raining, and there’s even a
welcome splash of sunlight.
After breakfast (army ration sausageand-beans – again, delicious) Jeff takes
us for a lesson in setting traps and snares,
before we hoist our backpacks on and head
off for the last leg of our journey. A cuckoo
calls from the woods as we cross the boggy
field, up onto a moor, heading east. We’re
not merely strolling, though: when we
cross mountain roads, we do it militarystyle, ducking out of sight of cars. Then an
instructor ‘breaks’ his leg and the dads have
to carry him to a safe area – in another
inevitable swamp – while the children
miraculously succeed in making a signal fire
with just a firesteel and bits of tufty reed.
UNDER THE STARS
Over supper, the children chat about
Bear Grylls. They’ve all seen every single
programme he’s made, and know the
names of his children (Huckleberry,
Marmaduke and Jesse). The instructors
stoke the kids’ enthusiasm with regular
invocations of Bear’s blessed name: “If Bear
came across this situation, this is what he’d
do…” is a refrain we hear over and over.
And to be fair to the man, it works: our
children, supposedly part of the sluggardly
video-game generation, have spent a day in
incredibly tough circumstances, and are all
still bright and cheerful.
It’s 10pm and pitch-black now, so after a
quick pre-bedtime lesson in how to navigate
by stars, it’s time to sleep. It’s still raining,
obviously. We duck into our shelters, making
the children as comfortable as possible
given that they’re effectively sleeping in a
chilly bog with a few microns of nylon and
12 4 visitwales.co.uk
visitwales.com
some rotten bracken between them and
dying of exposure.
We lie in absolute darkness, listening to
the sounds of the Brecon Beacons on a
rainy night. Sheep bleating. Wind buffeting
the trees. Rain drumming on the tarpaulin.
The smaller children in their shelter,
laughing and jabbering away relentlessly.
Someone gently snoring.
I groan, sink as deep as I can into
the sleeping bag, pull the hood over my
head, curse Bear Grylls’ name, and yearn
for morning. Next thing I know, there’s
the sound of a farmer’s quad bike in the
distance. Odd. I poke my head out of
the sleeping bag, and it’s morning. I’ve
slept after all. There’s even better news:
THE WORST – THE BEST
There are just three hours to go now, and
we all sense that the weekend has been
building to something. As we rappel into
the steep gorge of the River Mellte, there’s
an ominous pile of buoyancy aids waiting
for us. The good news is, we’re not going
to strip to our pants to cross the river. No.
We’re doing this fully clothed.
For the first time in 24 hours, I see a
look on Elizabeth’s face that says, ‘Dad,
I really, really don’t want to do this.’ But
we’ve learnt an important military virtue:
when confronted with the inevitable,
there’s no point hanging around. Best just
to crack on.
We wade into knee-deep icy water,
edging out onto a rock shelf until it
plummets into the brown, fast-flowing
depths. Ready? Deep breath. Go! We throw
our rucksacks in front of us and bellyflop into the water. It’s cold. Shockingly,
breath-stealingly so. We kick furiously with
our heavy walking boots, urging ourselves
to the other side, where we emerge
gasping and soaked. That was both the
worst – and oddly, the best – thing we’ve
done all weekend.
By the time we reach a bunkhouse, a
little more than 24 hours after we’d set
off, we’re exhausted but elated. And the
strange thing is, we’re all really glad that it
rained. Not just rained – chucked it down.
We were given the chance to try survival in
the worst possible conditions, and not only
did we survive, but we did it with a big grin
on our faces.
It has been an amazing 24 hours. The
skills we’ve learnt may save our lives one day
(although I hope never to find out). But I’ve
never felt closer to my daughter, or more in
awe of her capabilities. From now on, every
stroll in the countryside will become a richer,
more intense experience.
Now who fancies a mealworm?
Necessities
THE BEAR
The adventurer
Bear Grylls loves
the wild simplicity
of life in Wales
What are your earliest
memories of visiting Wales?
Going on a school climbing trip to
North Wales, camping out, everything
drenched through, being tired, cold and
hungry, but finding this fire inside that
was ignited. The harder it got, the more
I came alive. It’s hard to describe, but
as a kid those climbing trips became a
very powerful draw for me – something
about battling nature and learning
how to survive it and getting smarter,
stronger along the way.
How about when you
returned here as a soldier?
I vividly remember going to the Brecon
Beacons to train before SAS Selection
started, and being overawed by the
scale of the peaks and the brutality
of the winter weather. I thought,
‘Man, this is going to be harder than I
thought.’ I was right.
What’s your favourite place
in Wales?
Definitely our little Welsh island
[St Tudwal’s West, off Abersoch]. When
we bought it in 2000 it was run down
and covered in rats. But we slowly did
it up and it’s now the most amazing
place I know anywhere in the world.
Great cliffs and caves to explore, wild
seas, amazing birdlife and seals, a
fantastic local community, and a home
that is cosy and just us, away from the
madness of the rest of our year.
Tell us about the Survival
Academy – why pick the
Brecon Beacons?
For its beauty, but also for the rolling Welsh
hills, deep craggy gorges and icy cold Welsh
white water. It’s a real variety that equips
participants for any situation. People learn
everything from navigation to river crossings
and fire-lighting. It’s about dynamic selfrescue survival skills, but also encourages
key life attitudes which make that critical
difference both in the wild and in life –
optimism, team work, initiative, courage,
resourcefulness and determination.
Can all kids be outdoor
adventurers?
As a father of three young boys I know
what kids hunger for. Great adventures
teach them not only great life and outdoor
skills, but they also boost their confidence
with a sense of knowing they can look after
themselves when the chips are down. And
ultimately it can save their life!
You’re a global brand now.
Have all those TV meetings and
fancy hotels made you soft?
Years of doing my job in swamps, deserts
and mountains have taught me a definite
gratitude for home, for sure. But even
though a warm bed and hot bath is amazing,
the best for me is being back among those
I love, my kids – the hugs and the fun
together. Luxuries are a nice but temporary
joy. They’re not vital for happiness. That
comes from inside.
beargryllssurvivalacademy.com
visitwales.com
5
The Light Fantastic
11
3
There are more than 30 lighthouses dotted around the Welsh
coast, helping to keep sailors safe and also looking splendid at
the same time. These are ten of our favourites.
1 South Stack
Great for… location
This has perhaps the most
spectacular setting of any Welsh
lighthouse. Cross onto the island
of Anglesey, then hop over onto
Holy Island, and finally down 400
stone steps onto yet another tiny
island, where there are tours to the
top of the 134ft (41m) tower. The
surrounding cliffs form the RSPB
reserve where peregrines, choughs
and countless sea birds live.
visitanglesey.co.uk
2 Trwyn Du
Great for… walking
We like the walk out to the headland
at Penmon Point, which has lovely
views towards Puffin Island, and
back across the Menai Strait to
Snowdonia. When it was built in
the 1830s, the lighthouse featured
South Stack, Anglesey
6
visitwales.com
2
4
a pioneering lavatory which was
supposed to stop seawater from
surging back up the pipe. It didn’t
work – which is perhaps why it has
been unmanned since 1922.
5
visitanglesey.co.uk
6
3 Llanddwyn
7
Great for… romance
There isn’t a more romantic spot in
Wales (or maybe the world…) than
Llanddwyn Island. Walk out through
the Newborough Warren National
Nature Reserve onto a slender, sandfringed island, past the ruins of a
chapel dedicated to St Dwynwen, the
Welsh patron saint of lovers. And at
the tip, a pair of simple whitewashed
lighthouses, with breath-taking views
across to Snowdonia.
visitanglesey.co.uk
10
8
4 Bardsey
Great for… tranquility
The usual square tower of Bardsey lighthouse is painted in jolly red-and-white
bands, and from this year its light will
shine red, too – it’s less dangerous for
migrating birds than the old white light.
There are nine self-catering cottages for
rent on this ‘Island of 20,000 Saints’ –
and if they can live without electricity or
an indoor toilet, then so can you!
bardsey.org
visitsnowdonia.info
9
5 Strumble Head
Great for… sea watching
This lighthouse sits on a small island off a
rocky headland called Pencaer, or Strumble
Head. This is one of Britain’s best places to
spot migratory birds and passing cetaceans,
and the old observation hut is popular with
bird and sea watchers (the most dedicated
of whom are known as ‘Strumblers’).
walescoastpath.gov.uk
visitpembrokeshire.com
6 Skokholm
Great for… birds
Skokholm and Skomer Islands form one of
the most important seabird breeding sites
in the world, including thousands of puffins,
Manx shearwaters and storm petrels.
Skokholm lighthouse was recently bought
by the Wildlife Trust and converted into
accommodation for the island’s wardens
and visiting researchers. There are daytrips to Skomer, or for a proper getaway,
you can stay on the islands, which lie in
a glorious Marine Nature Reserve that’s
populated by dolphins, porpoises and lots
of grey seals.
welshwildlife.org
7 Caldey
Great for… day trips
Here’s a great day-trip if you’re holidaying
in Pembrokeshire: take the boat across from
Tenby, explore the Cistercian monastery,
buy some home-made chocolate from the
shop, and walk across the fields to a clifftop
Skokholm, Pembrokeshire
West Usk, Mons
Bardsey, Llŷn
lighthouse which, together with its partner
on distant Lundy Island, guides ships into
the Bristol Channel. The monastery also
organises spiritual retreats for those who
want to stay and enjoy a few days of quiet
reflection.
caldey-island.co.uk
8 Nash Point
Great for… accommodation
There are actually two lighthouses here on
the Glamorgan Heritage Coast’s layer-cake
cliffs, both built to warn shipping away
from a treacherous sand bank. The larger
was manned until 1998; now it’s the only
working Welsh lighthouse to have a visitor
centre and to be a licensed wedding venue.
There are also keepers’ cottages for holiday
rental and a gem of a pub, the Plough &
Harrow, is within walking distance.
Trwyn Du, Anglesey
visitthevale.com
bridgendbites.com
9 Flat Holm
10 West Usk
Great for… beer
Great for… weddings
It’s just five miles (8km) from Cardiff,
but over the years Flat Holm has been
a saint’s retreat, a haven for pirates and
smugglers, a cholera sanatorium, a gun
battery, and – to stop ships bumping into
it – a good place for a lighthouse. You
can take a day trip from Cardiff, or stay
overnight at a stylish three-bed selfcatering cottage. There’s even a tiny pub
called the Gull and Leek.
This quirky little lighthouse was decommissioned back in 1922, and is now a cosy
B&B and wedding venue. Over on the other
side of the River Usk its smaller brother, the
East Usk Lighthouse, is still operational, and
now lies within the RSPB Newport Wetlands
reserve.
flatholmisland.com
visitthevale.com
For more information, see
trinityhouse.co.uk
Llanddwyn Island, Anglesey
westusklighthouse.co.uk
visitmonmouthhire.com
visitwales.com
7
THE
PRINCE’S PASSIONS
During his annual summer tour of Wales,
His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales stays at his
Welsh home, a beautifully restored farmhouse in rural
Carmarthenshire. We are honoured that HRH Prince Charles
shares with us his Welsh passions, and memories of
55 years as The Prince of Wales.
8
visitwales.com
How did Your Royal
Highness first discover
Llwynywermod?
“Wales has still
preserved its
wonderful sense
of community –
particularly in the
rural areas.”
After a long search lasting some 40 years!
Several houses and sites were explored
until, finally, we came across Llwynywermod
in an exceptionally beautiful part of
Carmarthenshire, on the edge of the
Brecon Beacons and within reasonable
reach of Cardiff.
Llwynywermod was originally part of
an old estate with the ruins of the old
house, the remnants of an 18th-century
landscaped park and various disintegrating
‘concrete and corrugated iron’ modern
farm buildings and an abandoned slurry
pit. All this required a lot of re-ordering
and restoration. I was determined that as
many local and Duchy of Cornwall natural
materials as possible could be used in the
rebuilding and restoration process and
that the house should be a showcase for
traditional Welsh craftsmanship, textiles
and woodwork, so as to draw attention to
the high quality small enterprises, woollen
mills, quilt-makers, joiners, stonemasons
and metal-workers situated in rural parts
of Wales.
How does the garden at
Llwynywermod compare
with your famously
beautiful gardens at
Highgrove?
I couldn’t possibly create another
Highgrove garden in Wales and so the
obvious thing to do was to make a
courtyard garden at Llwynywermod, with a
fountain in the centre, to provide that allimportant sound of running water, clipped
ilex trees to give height, structure and cover
for small birds and box-bordered beds. I
planted climbing plants up the walls such
as Albertine roses, magnolia grandiflora,
jasmine, honeysuckle and Boston ivy and
let all sorts of plants seed themselves in the
battered cobblestones outside the old barn
which forms one side of the courtyard.
The rain in Wales, and the shelter of the
courtyard, have meant that everything has
Llwynywermod was originally owned by William Williams, who was related to
Anne Boleyn, second wife of Henry VIII – 15th great uncle to its present owner,
Prince Charles.
grown abundantly and rewarded all the
effort. Trees have been planted in the old
parkland to bring it back to life and two
small wildflower meadows to the front and
side of the house, the latter containing an
apple orchard. I can only hope I shall live
long enough to see some of the trees reach
a reasonable size!
How important is it for you
to have a retreat in Wales?
Very important! Having been Prince of
Wales for 55 years, it enables me, on
various occasions, to be part of the local
community around Llandovery and to have
a base for entertaining and meeting people
from throughout the Principality. Wales
has still preserved its wonderful sense of
community – particularly in the rural areas
– and Llandovery, an old sheep-drovers’
town, somehow maintains those priceless
assets of its own community hospital,
family GPs, a rugby club (of which I am
proud to be Patron), a railway station and a
strong connection with the family farming
communities in the surrounding countryside.
Some may say this is old-fashioned, but to
me it is timeless; the bedrock of our humanity
in a profound relationship with Nature and
the very heart of Wales’s cultural, social and
spiritual heritage.
visitwales.com
9
The interior at Llwynywermod
Which are your other
favourite Welsh gardens?
I would have to say that Powis Castle
and Bodnant are two of my favourite
gardens – but, sadly, I have not been able
to see round so many others throughout
the Principality. Powis Castle has the
dramatic advantage of steep terraces
descending below the castle itself, each
terrace displaying the most magnificent
borders and all set in stunning, ancient
parkland. Bodnant is equally dramatic,
but in a different way. It is a plantsman’s
garden; beautifully laid out throughout
a sheltered valley and containing
magnificent great trees and under-planted
“Wales is blessed with
a series of landscapes
which are uniquely
precious, many of
which are the result
of Man working in
harmony with Nature
for thousands of years.”
The name Llwynywermod means
‘Wormwood Grove’, and is thought
to be connected to local herbalists
the Physicians of Myddfai, who
were famous for their knowledge of
herbal medicine.
with choice specimens of trees, shrubs
and rhododendrons from China and the
Himalayas, all growing in the kind of soil
and conditions all gardeners would give
their eye teeth for! The views from the
house, of mountainous countryside in the
distance, makes Bodnant one of Wales’s
national treasures.
Which are your favourite
landscapes in Wales?
Llandovery
10visitwales.com
What a difficult question! Wales is
blessed with a series of landscapes
which are uniquely precious, many of
which are the result of Man working in
harmony with Nature for thousands
of years. This, of course, is one of
the reasons I so love the rolling
landscape of Carmarthenshire,
around Llwynywermod, or the wild,
unspoilt, patchworked countryside
of Radnorshire, or the ancient,
mysteriously mossy, oak-filled valleys
of what used to be called Cardiganshire
when I was at Aberystwyth University
in 1969, but is now known as
Ceredigion. Of course, the most rugged
and grandly picturesque has to be
Snowdonia, battered and drenched by
constant Atlantic storms, crowded with
rocky mountain tops and a mecca for
artists and energetic climbers.
What are your fondest
memories of times
spent here?
Memorable times spent exploring midWales during my term at Aberystwyth
University and learning something
about the Principality and its ancient
language, folklore, myths and history.
As a watercolourist, what
are your favourite places
to paint in Wales?
The whole of Wales is a painter’s dream!
As you travel around the country there
are paintable views around every corner,
so often illuminated by the Western
light with its contrasting fingers of
lengthening shadows. In my case, there
is never enough time to stop and paint,
so I am permanently frustrated!
What part does Wales’s
unique environment play
in its attraction?
I would have thought the uniquely
attractive and enduring landscape of
Wales, with its mountains, patchworked
fields and woods; its coastline, castles,
villages and market towns, plays a vital
role in attracting visitors – it certainly
cast its spell on me a long time ago…
THE
PRINCE’S PLACES
Bodnant Garden
Llwynywermod
The Welsh home of The Prince of Wales
and Duchess of Cornwall sits within
192 acres near Myddfai, Llandovery
in Carmarthenshire. It was bought by
the Duchy of Cornwall in 2006 and
renovated using the expertise of skilled
Welsh craftsmen and women. The
grounds are a mix of woodlands and
meadows providing a variety of habitats
for wildlife, and the whole estate is
managed under organic principles.
Llwynywermod is used by The Prince and
The Duchess when they are in Wales on
their regular visits and annual summer
tour. At other times, the courtyard
cottages are used as occasional
holiday lets.
princeofwales.gov.uk/the-prince-ofwales/residences/llwynywermod
Carmarthenshire
Llwynywermod is located, appropriately, in
a county known as ‘the Garden of Wales’.
The Black Mountain falls away into the
Towy Valley, a lush agricultural region
punctuated by castles, market towns
and two special places for horticulturists:
the lost garden of Aberglasney, and the
National Botanic Garden of Wales.
discovercarmarthenshire.com
Powis Castle and Garden,
near Welshpool
High on a rock above its garden terraces,
Powis Castle, originally built around 1200,
began life as a Welsh fortress. But it was
the Herbert family who embellished it
over 400 years, each generation adding
to the magnificent collection of paintings,
sculpture, furniture and tapestries.
The world-famous garden, laid out under
the influence of Italian and French styles,
is one of the finest in Britain, while a
superb collection of treasures from India is
displayed in the Clive Museum.
nationaltrust.org.uk
Bodnant Garden,
near Conwy
Created by five generations of one family,
this 80-acre garden has spectacular views
across the Conwy Valley to the mountains
of Snowdonia. With expansive lawns
and intimate corners, grand ponds and
impressive terraces, a steep wooded valley
and stream, as well as awe-inspiring plant
collections, there are continually changing
glorious displays of colour.
visitwales.com
11
1
3
1. Elisabeth Luard, Xanthe Clay
2. Mangalitsa pigs
3. Birchgrove Farm
4. Ultracomida
5. Rob Rattray rack of lamb
2
4
12 visitwales.com
5
proof of the
The food writer Xanthe Clay has travelled
the world in hot pursuit of great cuisine. But on a trip
to Wales she discovers that dazzling food is on the menu
a lot closer to home. @xantheclay
W
ales is the best-kept secret in
food, although rumours of
foodie delights in the far reaches
of Ceredigion and Snowdonia have been
trickling through. Word is getting out of
passionate producers, chefs and farmers.
I’ve heard whispers of food, which has to be
tasted to be believed, hand-made by artisans
on such a small scale that you have to seek it
out because it is never going to turn up on a
supermarket shelf.
A few phone calls and spot of googling
later, and I realise there is just too much to
pack in. Foodie friends and fellow food writers
fall over themselves to tell me of hidden
treasures – the café that sells lobster rolls with
local seaweed butter; the flour mill run by two
retired postmen that’s the toast of bakers;
the Michelin-star chef who has set up on a
remote seashore.
After some painful narrowing down, the
three-night road trip is fixed, a great loop
round the delights of South and West Wales,
from Carmarthenshire to the far reaches of
Pembrokeshire, up the coast round Cardigan
Bay to Aberystwyth, and then into the heart
of Mid Wales.
We head down the M4 to spend our
first night at Llwyn Helyg Country House in
Llanarthne, a newly-built palace of a guest
house that is to regular B&Bs what Downton
Abbey is to Emmerdale. As if acres of marble
flooring and a sweeping staircase aren’t
enough, Llwyn Helyg’s USP is its ‘room of
sound’, a massive hall designed to have the
perfect acoustic for the awe-inspiring sound
system – music lovers will be entranced.
The bedrooms too would put many fivestar hotels to shame, and they could never
compete with the warmth of welcome from
owners Caron and Fiona, which even extends
to a lift to the local restaurant, Y Polyn, for
dinner.
WRIGHT STUFF
Now, Y Polyn might look like a modest pubrestaurant but don’t be deceived – it’s one of
those fantastic hidden-away places that those
in the know rather irritatingly like to keep
to themselves. “Never turn down a dinner
invitation to The Polyn!” a friend tells me,
but only when I mention it. Thanks for that,
I think.
You won’t get white linen tablecloths or stiff
service at Y Polyn – this is about great food
on wooden tables and a well-kept pint as well
as a solid wine list. We eat heritage tomatoes
from Blaencamel Farm on the CeredigionPembrokeshire border and local salmon
caught in the Towy Valley by a fisherman in
a coracle “the shape of half a walnut shell”,
owner Mark tells me. And to finish, a towering
chocolate and cherry ice-cream sundae, as
rich and fruity as Dame Edna Everage and just
as good fun.
In the morning, we stroll up the lane from
Llwyn Helyg to Wright’s Food Emporium, a
gem of a food shop and café in a Victorian
farmhouse-cum-inn – it turns out that even
in the 19th century farmers had to diversify.
Under the bare beams in the low-ceilinged,
slate-floored shop, Simon Wright, together
with his wife, chef Maryann, sells local cheeses
and charcuterie, as well as eggs, vegetables,
home-made jams and chutneys. Their son
Joel oversees the wine room, complete with
old-school record player and an intriguing
selection of wine and local beer.
The table in the panelled dining room
has plates loaded with clouds of meringues,
cheesecake and a deep treacle tart, crusted
on the top and melting toffee within. But
it’s breakfast time so we sit by the shelves of
cookbooks where Fergus Henderson is cheekto-cheek with Fanny Cradock, and eat a ‘Fried
Welsh Rarebit’ – like a mustardy toasted
cheese sandwich, packed with leeks and
with a generous smear of n’duja, a Calabrian
spiced sausage spread. Then comes some
delicate, thin-sliced spiced salt beef, served
warm with Wright’s homemade soda bread,
a nostril-clearingly hot horseradish mustard,
pickles and a delectable caraway seed-spiked
coleslaw.
At Wright’s we spot some very fine cured
pork, beautifully marbled bacon, sausages and
fennel and red wine salami, from a company
called Charcutier Ltd. I’d come across the
owner Illtud Ll ŷr Dunsford’s blog, a fascinating
and honest look at curing meat from a man
who has travelled the world in search of piggy
perfection. It seems like the least we can do
to take a short detour to Pontiets to meet
Illtud and his partner Liesel.
More poodle than porker
Illtud meets us at the modest farmhouse in a
T-shirt that reads ‘Tasty Salted Pig Parts’. This
is a man obsessed with pork, and with that
enthusiasm for his product that seems to be
a trait among Welsh producers. A farmer’s
grandson, Illtud would spend weekends
on the farm eating the home-grown pork,
“tenderloin fried in lard by my grandmother
in a pan that was never washed out”, and
learning how to cure meat in the old slate
trays that still stand in the farmhouse kitchen,
now transformed into a meat-curing space.
Out in the yard are Illtud’s pride and joy,
half a dozen Mangalitsa pigs, a curly-haired
Hungarian breed snuffling around, looking
more like poodles than porkers. Their meat
is special too, explains Illtud: sublime, dark,
richly flavoured and well marbled, like the
Spanish pata negra.
We finish our mugs of tea and wave
goodbye to Illtud. It’s time to make for
the sea, so we head for the coast road.
Chef Will Holland, who held a Michelin
star at restaurant La Bécasse in Ludlow has
opened up the appropriately named Coast
at Saundersfoot, while at Freshwater West
visitwales.com
13
6
there’s Café Môr, the permanent base of
the Pembrokeshire Beach Food Company,
which won the BBC Food and Farming
Awards this year for best takeaway.
Time is racing on, so we head up the
Ceredigion coast to visit my friend the
celebrated food writer Elisabeth Luard.
We wave as we pass Cardigan, home
of the award-winning Llwynhelyg Farm
Shop where they will nip out and freshly
pick salad leaves for you. With singleminded determination we drive on past
the Georgian fishing village of Aberaeron.
No time today for home-made honey ice
cream at The Hive, snuggled next to a fine
fishmongers on the harbourside where you
can watch the fishing boats delivering their
catch to the door.
7
8
SIMPLE AND DIRECT
We reach Elisabeth in the early evening,
driving up the long bumpy lane to her pinkpainted Georgian farmhouse perched in the
hills above Aberystwyth with views across
the valley to the Cambrian hills. Elisabeth
comes bounding out of the moss-green
front door, and we are soon ensconced in
the kitchen. Granddaughter Jess and her
friend Juliet are cooking padrones peppers
from local Spanish food shop Ultracomida,
and we sip wine from Wright’s while we
discuss the joy of Welsh food.
“I love its honesty,” Elisabeth tells me.
“It’s very simple, very direct, and it depends
on good ingredients – and people here are
very switched on to good ingredients.”
That night we eat tender, richly flavoured
lamb, with peas and a vividly coloured
salad of flowers, rocket and lettuce from
Elisabeth’s garden, then cheeses and
strawberries left to macerate in a scattering
of sugar. Elisabeth was clearly delighted by
the Welsh produce. “That lamb is from the
Ystwyth Valley, which we drive through on
the ten-minute journey to Aberystwyth.
You don’t get much more local than that.”
14 visitwales.com
9
10
Next morning, we make the journey to
Aberystwyth, arriving at the farmers’ market
just as the sun comes out.
Liesel was there, smiling broadly, with
the Charcutier Ltd stall doing a busy trade
and already nearly out of chorizo. At
Tŷ Mawr Buffalo Dairy stall I try a mild,
six-month matured buffalo cheese, and
a punchy knock-your-socks off tenmonther. There’s a stall selling free-range
duck – something supermarket shoppers
struggle to lay hands on – but Elisabeth
is already a couple of stands further on,
at the Blaencamel Farm stall, chatting to
farmer Peter Segger. As well as those
fragrant tomatoes I ate at Y Polyn, there
are taut-skinned aubergines, bags bursting
with squeaky-leafed spinach and kale,
purple sputniks of kohlrabi, satiny globes
of beetroot, perky leaves attached – all
for prices that make the supermarkets
look dear.
The next stall is manned by farmer
Sarah Tarbutt of Harmony Herd wild boar
cross pork. The pig-boars range freely
next to the appropriately named ‘Swine
Lake’ where, Sarah told me, when it’s hot
“they lie underwater with their noses up
14
6. Baravin
7. Elisabeth’s garden produce
8. Y Polyn restaurant team
9. Turbot at The Old Vicarage
10. Fresh from Llwynhelyg Farm Shop
11. Wright’s Food Emporium
12. Dà Mhìle orange liqueur
13. Elisabeth and Xanthe
14. Gouda-style Teifi cheese
11
12
13
like snorkels”. I have to buy some heavily
marbled bacon.
We take a tot of juniper-rose-scented
Dà Mhìle gin, made by the same DutchWelsh team who make the award-winning
Gouda-style Teifi cheese, then admire Cwca
Cartre’s cake stall, Mr Nice Pie and Mama
Singh’s authentic Indian cooking, before
stocking up on free-range eggs (a tray of
three dozen for £4.50) from Birchgrove
Farm. It’s time for a quick lunch of
Ultracomida’s fine Spanish fare – the Welsh
might have great produce of their own but
they aren’t parochial – before a tour of the
food shops including Rob Rattray’s butcher,
purveyor of last night’s lamb as well as whole
flitches of old fashioned bacon. I’m in food
heaven, but after a quick drink in the slick
harbourside restaurant-bar Baravin (yes,
Aber – as the locals call it – does urban cool
as well) we are on the road again.
We drive east through the hills and along
the River Severn to our last stop, The Old
Vicarage at Dolfor. This is another Welsh
secret. Tim and Helen Withers worked with
the legendary Joyce Molyneux at the Carved
Angel at Dartmouth, before running their
own seafood restaurant in Wiltshire. They
moved to the Victorian former rectory in the
heart of the sheep-farming country to be
close to family, and now run it as an elegant
guest house with first-rate food. You won’t
find any smears of sauces here, no foams
or teetering towers of vegetables. This is
old-school done properly: Tim’s twice-baked
soufflé was described by food writer Simon
Hopkinson as the finest outside London’s
two-Michelin-star Gavroche restaurant. As
we tuck in to the soufflé, two trembling
cloud-light domes with gilded tops, I can’t
imagine anything better.
And as Elisabeth tells me, “It’s wonderful
to love food. A lot of your life can be made
so happy, if only for a short time, if you
love food.”
discoverceredigion.co.uk
midwalesmyway.com
A luxury B&B in the lovely Towy Valley
near the National Botanic Garden of Wales.
llwynhelygcountryhouse.co.uk
The perfect gastropub for food pilgrims.
ypolynrestaurant.co.uk
Food, drink, deli, occasional guest chef
slots, cult cinema nights – all done the
Wright way.
wrightsfood.co.uk
One man’s obsession with charcuterie
leads to piggy perfection.
charcutierltd.wordpress.com
Michelin-star chef Will Holland lands his
own beachfront fish restaurant.
coastsaundersfoot.co.uk
SeaShore wraps and lobster rolls are on
the menu on one of Pembrokeshire’s finest
beaches.
cafemor.co.uk
Home-grown potatoes and salad crops
from the farm, with seasonal fruit and veg.
llwynhelygfarmshop.co.uk
Famous for its honey ice cream, and
there’s also the freshest fish landed daily.
thehiveaberaeron.com
Cult Spanish deli in Aberystwyth
and Narberth.
ultracomida.co.uk
A herd of pasture-fed water buffalo
produce a gloriously rich cheese.
buffalodairy.co.uk
Organic pioneers who have produced
arguably Wales’s finest veg for 30 years.
blaencamel.com
Free-range pork, bacon and sausages
from a happy herd of wild boar cross pigs.
harmonyherd.co.uk
Countless awards for cheese, and the
distillery is set to do the same.
damhile.co.uk | teificheese.co.uk
Butcher-farmer Rob Rattray produces
perfect meat from his own and other local
farms.
robrattray.co.uk
Posh pizza is the trump card at this
buzzing café-brasserie.
baravin.co.uk
No frills, no fuss, just beautifully cooked
food at this idyllic rectory.
theoldvicaragedolfor.co.uk
visitwales.com
15
the incrEdibles
In September, the culinary world centres on the Abergavenny Food
Festival, but the taste of Wales can been enjoyed throughout the year
in a banquet of food festivals and farmers’ markets.
A
bergavenny is a real foodie town.
Locals come here for the market,
which runs three days a week, every
week. There are fine wine auctions at the
saleroom. There are cracking pubs, including
a genuine heart-of-the-community coaching
inn, The Angel, which still does proper high
teas (but also cocktails and wagyu steaks).
Within five miles (8km) are three of the
best places to eat in Wales or anywhere
else: the Walnut Tree, The Hardwick and
The Foxhunter.
If Abergavenny is the epicentre of Welsh
food, for the third weekend in September
it becomes the centre of the entire food
world. Abergavenny Food Festival was
founded in 1999 by a couple of local
farmers, and it has grown into arguably the
best food event in Britain, with more than
220 stalls attracting up to 40,000 visitors.
Most people come simply to stroll
around the stalls, taste new things, and
buy something for supper or the store
cupboard. But there are also masterclasses
and demonstrations, debates and lectures,
where you can learn about everything from
foraging to fine wine, and get insider info
from some of the biggest names in food.
There’s also lots of live music and a big
Saturday night shindig in the castle grounds.
It’s a must-visit in the food industry
calendar, as chefs and food writers pile
into town to catch up with each other,
share gossip and, like the rest of us, amble
around. In previous years, you might
easily have found yourself alongside
food eminences like Raymond Blanc,
Antonio Carluccio, Anthony Bourdain,
Georgio Locatelli, Yotam Ottolenghi,
Pierre Koffmann, Claudia Rodin and Hugh
Fearnley-Whittingstall.
In the best foodie tradition, you
can taste before buying: go online to
visitwales.com/proof-pudding and have
a butcher’s at the short film we made with
Xanthe Clay at the 2014 Festival. We had a
fantastic time, and we know you will, too.
abergavennyfoodfestival.com
2
3
1
Farmers’ Markets
The ancient ideal of local food, bought direct from
the people who grew/raised/baked/brewed it, never
went away in Wales. Drive the backroads of rural
Wales and you’ll often find honesty boxes at the gate,
and signs saying things like ‘wyau ar werth’ (eggs for
sale) or ‘tato newi’ (slangy Welsh for ‘new potatoes’).
Traditional town markets are still important, too –
Swansea, Abergavenny, Mold and Machynlleth are
great examples.
Somewhere between the two lies the Farmers’
Market movement, which has been a powerful force
in bringing niche producers together to sell their
wares. Some markets are little more than a dozen
trestle tables in a village hall, held once a month.
Others, like Cardiff’s excellent weekly Riverside
Market, has spread to three venues and runs its own
community allotment.
Either way, whenever you visit Wales, there’ll be one
near you. For the definitive list of times and places, see
the Farmers’ Markets in Wales website: fmiw.co.uk.
XX visitwales.com
4
Food Festivals
5
Help yourself from our all-you-can-eat smörgåsbord of food festivals. Usually served with a side-order
of live music, and washed down with a glass of local happy juice. What’s not to like?
april
Broneirion Food Fair (Llandinam)
broneirion.com
Gorseinon-Swansea Food Festival
gdt.org.uk/foodfestival
may
Caerphilly Food Festival
caerphilly.gov.uk/foodfestival
Welsh Perry & Cider Festival
(Monmouthshire)
welshcider.co.uk
Wrexham Food Festival
wrexhamfoodfest.co.uk
june
Hay Summer Food Festival
breconbeacons.org/food-festivals
Newcastle Emlyn Food Festival
emlynfoodfestival.org.uk
july
Cardiff International Food &
Drink Festival
cardiff-festival.com
1. Cardigan
2. Abergavenny
3. Brecon
Cardigan Bay Seafood Festival
aberaeronfishfest.com
Lampeter Food Festival
lampeterfoodfestival.org.uk
august
Big Welsh Bite (Pontypridd)
rctcbc.gov.uk
Cardigan River & Food Festival
cardigan-food-festival.co.uk
september
Abergavenny Food Festival
Feastival (Bridgend)
bridgendbites.com
Narberth Food Festival
narberthfoodfestival.com
Newtown Food & Drink Festival
newtown.org.uk
Mold Food Festival
moldfoodfestival.co.uk
St Fagans Food Festival
museumwales.ac.uk/stfagans
4. Abergavenny
5. Cardigan
october
Anglesey Oyster & Welsh
Produce Festival
angleseyoysterfestival.com
Brecon Beacons Food Festival
(Brecon)
breconbeacons.org
Gwledd Conwy Feast
conwyfeast.com
Llangollen Food Festival
llangollenfoodfestival.com
Mumbles Oyster Festival
mumblesoysterfestival.com
Neath Food & Drink Festival
neathfoodfestival.co.uk
Newport Food Festival
newportfoodfestival.co.uk
november
Hay Winter Food Festival
breconbeacons.org/food-festivals
december
Abergavenny Christmas Food &
Drink Fair
Portmeirion Food & Craft Fair
portmeirion-village.com
visitwales.com
17
Stumbling across an idyllic sandy cove, or discovering a secret waterfall is the
unpredictable magic that makes a good day a bit special. Wales is full of these unexpected
surprises, as wild swimming expert and author Daniel Start has discovered.
Wild
AT
Heart
I
grew up on the River Wye near
Hereford and my family spent a
lot of time in Wales around the
Black Mountain and in the Brecon
Beacons, swimming among the
wonderful streams, pools and secret
waterfalls. I really caught the wild
swimming bug from an early age.
Here’s just a small selection of
Wales’s wild swimming locations –
both along the coast and inland – that
feature in my books. They all take that
little bit of extra effort to get to, so
they’re never crowded.
We know that swimming is one of
the best forms of exercise, but even a
little dip in a secret pool or a beautiful
lake is good for both body and mind.
You needn’t wander too far off the
beaten track to discover that wild
swimming gives you a spectacular
introduction to Wales’s natural history
wildswimming .co.uk
Porth Oer, Ll y^ n Peninsula
12
18 visitwales.com
Coast: the hidden beaches of Wales
Porth Wen, Isle of Anglesey
It’s one of the most interesting but spookiest of Anglesey’s many coves. Down an
unsigned, little-used path you come upon a ruined harbour and old brick works with a
honeycomb of furnaces and chimneystacks to explore. Enjoy the perfect white shingle
beach and rock arch as you think about the people who once lived and worked here and
rejoice that nature has reclaimed this quiet place for herself.
visitanglesey.co.uk
The Blue Lagoon,
Abereiddi, Pembrokeshire
West of Porthgain – a pretty harbour village
with a restaurant, pub and galleries – there
are more treats, including a swim through a
giant arch at Porth Dwfn, the wide sands of
Traeth Llyfn and finally Abereiddi’s famous
Blue Lagoon, a disused quarry long since
breached by the sea to become an inland
lake. The quarry’s old wheelhouse provides
three platforms for leaping into the deep
blue abyss below – a famous rite of passage
for local swimmers and visitors alike.
Porthdinllaen, Ll^yn Peninsula
A delightful car-free hamlet owned by the
National Trust, just below Nefyn & District
Golf Club. Near the lifeboat ramp there
are two tiny sandy coves that are good
for swimming. You may find yourself in
the company of seals basking on nearby
rocks. The T^y Coch pub is one of the
most recognisable spots in the area and
is a wonderful spot to relax on a sunny
summer evening.
visitsnowdonia.info
Mwnt beach, Ceredigion
Watched over by an ancient church,
this perfect sandy cove, sheltered by
sandstone cliffs, is great for snorkelling. As
you approach the coast through empty
countryside and down miles of tiny lanes
it’s difficult to imagine that this area
was the scene of a major 12th-century
battle. Whole skeletons are still unearthed
Porth Oer, Ll^yn Peninsula
periodically from the fields around. Mwnt,
though remote, is far from secret and is
popular with families, so if you’re yearning
for a wilder adventure, explore a few
hundred yards along the Wales Coast Path
to the east. Here you’ll find great slabs of
rock that shelve into perfect clear water,
ideal for sea-caving and snorkelling.
Porth Oer (Whistling Sands) is one of
a string of pearly coves formed as the
peninsula’s north-western coastal mountain
gives way to moorland. Porth Oer is perhaps
the best known of these coves and the
grains really do squeak underfoot, piping
shrill notes when the wind blows in from
the west. A small National Trust café
provides sustenance and the cliff walk
immediately south leads to the small island
headlands of Dinas Bach and Dinas Fawr
with sea caves for exploring.
visitsnowdonia.info
visitwales.com
visitwales.com
19
12
Bluepool Corner, Gower Peninsula
This is one of the best plunge pools in Britain, scoured out of the
rocks by wave-driven eddies that tumbled giant cobbles in its depths.
A friend and I had been given a tip-off about its location. We arrived
on mountain bikes, threw them into the long grass and scampered
down the rocky path to join a group of teenagers who were practising
somersaults into the dark purple waters. I eased myself in and swam
around for a while, ‘plumb lining’ to try to calculate the depth. As I
couldn’t touch the bottom, I rejoined the others who showed me how
to do backflips instead.
visitswanseabay.com
Confucius Hole and caves,
Broad Haven, Pembrokeshire
This is one of the most spectacular
stretches of coast in Britain with many
caves and sea caverns. Look out for
St Govan’s Chapel hidden in the cliffs near
Bosherston. If you are feeling adventurous,
there are several dramatic swims between
Broad Haven and Barafundle Bay. One of
the best is at Confucius Hole, a huge crater
that fills up into a great blue lagoon with
each tide. In calm seas you can enter via a
sea cave in the sea cliffs, though this is only
accessible at low tide.
Harlech beach, Snowdonia
The beach below Harlech’s imposing
14th-century castle has one of the few
dune systems in the UK that is growing,
extending further into Cardigan Bay. This
12
visitwales.com
20 visitwales.com
designated National Nature Reserve and
Site of Special Scientific Interest is well
worth further exploration and the large,
flat beach is well served with parking, shop,
toilets and camp site. Keep an eye out for
dolphins playing in the bay.
visitsnowdonia.info
Traeth Mawr, Monknash,
Vale of Glamorgan
The majestic Glamorgan Heritage Coast
features cliffs composed of stacked
limestone strata and flat limestone
pavements stretch into the sea. Monknash
makes a perfect base: from here a stream
with a ruined mill leads to the vast beach of
Traeth Mawr. If you’re looking for a roaring
fire and an impressive selection of ales and
ciders, head for the Plough and Harrow inn
back in the village, built from the ruins of
the adjacent monastery.
bridgendbites.com / visitthevale.com
Barafundle Bay, Stackpole,
Pembrokeshire
A permanent fixture in lists of Britain’s best
beaches, surrounded by lovely dunes and
woodland. On the end of the headland
you’ll find three fantastic natural arches
with Gaudi-esque spires supporting
them. It’s like a sunken gargoyle-covered
cathedral. This is coasteering country and
the intrepid might make their way along
the cliffs to Stackpole Quay, checking out
the massive Lorts Cave along the way. Wellearned rewards await at the National Trust
café or the Stackpole Inn.
Inland: wild swimming in Wales
Lady Falls, Brecon Beacons
The Waterfalls Woods are the most spectacular series of waterfalls in Wales, with aqua
forest lidos fit for the gods. Lady Falls is variable: sometimes it can be a roaring cascade,
at other times a trickle. If you’re well equipped and have time, you may be able to
bushwhack your way up a further 0.6 miles (1km) through the forest above Lady Falls to
find the falls of Einion Gam, named after the lover of Gwladys, daughter of 10th-century
King Brychan. This is twice as tall, and its pool is cut into a sheer-sided ravine.
breconbeacons.org | midwalesmyway.com
The Warren, Hay-on-Wye
The home of literary festivals and secondhand bookshops, is also the site of the
famous riverside ‘Warren’ – a stretch of
Wye-side shingle and shallows popular with
families. During the Hay Festival you’ll find it
packed with people from all over the world,
propped up on one elbow reading with
their picnics and Pimms.
midwalesmyway.com
Llyn y Fan Fach,
Carmarthenshire
This is one of two high tarns that sit
beneath the peak of the Black Mountain.
For many centuries legend has told of
a ‘Lady of the Lake’ who married a local
farmer with a pre-nuptial clause that if he
struck her three times, she would return to
her lake. The marriage ended in tears and
the Lady would rise, shimmering on the
first Sunday of August at two o’clock in the
afternoon. It’s a stunning location.
breconbeacons.org
discovercarmarthenshire.org
Rhaeadr Mawddach, Snowdonia
The gold from this valley near Dolgellau
made Princess Diana’s wedding ring and has
been the royal choice since Roman times.
The last commercial operation closed
down in 1998 but there are still many
old workings along the gorge. The most
prominent is Rhaeadr Mawddach, a large,
deep plunge pool at a huge waterfall, set
among goldmine ruins.
visitsnowdonia.info
Be safe –
Wild swimming is fantastic fun, but please do read up on the risks before taking
the plunge. For lots of essential safety advice, go to wildswimming.co.uk and
nationalwatersafety.org.uk. Don’t swim until you do!
visitwales.com
21
town&
country
22 visitwales.com
The splendid countryside of Wales draws
visitors from all over the world. Our capital
city, Cardiff, is also a major attraction.
Discovering these places for yourself is
part of the pleasure, but it can help to
enlist a friendly face for some expert
advice on where to go and what to see.
Huw Stephens, (left) at
The Pettigrew Tea Rooms, Cardiff,
while Iolo Williams (this page)
is happiest in the heather
Huw Stephens has been immersed in the music scene of his
native Cardiff for most of his life and has been broadcasting on
BBC Radio 1 since he was 17 years old. Iolo Williams, meanwhile,
is a wildlife expert and television presenter who has been exploring
every nook and cranny of the Welsh countryside since roaming the
hedgerows with his Taid (North Walian for grandfather) as a kid.
Both of them know their stuff. Just as well, really.
visitwales.com
23
Sŵn Festival
Shady character on Womanby Street
International rugby at the Millennium Stadium
Bright Lights,
Big City with
Huw Stephens
Cardiff
I was born about 20 minutes from the centre of
Cardiff. When I was getting into music in the ’90s
it coincided with a really exciting time for music
in the city. You’d see bands on telly like the Manic
Street Preachers, Stereophonics, Super Furry
Animals and Catatonia, then you’d see them in the
pub. It felt like I was living in one of the key music
hotspots in the world. Things really developed
from that point forwards.
As a city, there have been loads of changes over
the last ten years and Cardiff’s a really friendly and
sociable place to be. There are lots of little nooks
and crannies to explore.
The music scene in Cardiff covers all the bases,
from gentle country music to experimental
electronic music. It’s a very organic environment,
with lots of small venues and clubs providing great
spaces for musicians to play.
Right: Kelly Jones, Stereophonics
24 visitwales.com
Milgi Café
Sŵn Festival
The Sŵn Festival is a lively
celebration of independent
music, usually in October. It
features dozens of emerging
bands in venues right across
Cardiff. The city is an ideal
place for this kind of event –
and it’s a great time to visit.
2015 will be the ninth year
we’ve held the event and I’ve
been involved with it from the
beginning, when one of the
highlights was driving round
town trying to get a rapper
called Skinnyman a bottle of
whisky at 2am. There has been
some impressive music over the
years and there’s plenty more
to come.
swnfest.com
The Millennium Stadium
The fact that there is a 74,500
capacity sports stadium
right in the middle of the
city emphasises just how
important sport is to Cardiff.
The Millennium Stadium is
an amazing place and there’s
nothing quite like that buzz of
an international rugby weekend.
Cardiff Blues rugby team
is the regional side and they
play their home matches at
the ground alongside the
Millennium Stadium. Cardiff City
Football Club is a little further
away from the centre of town,
but the club is close to the heart
of the people of Cardiff.
millenniumstadium.com
cardiffblues.com
cardiffcityfc.co.uk
Cardiff’s record shops
Spillers Records is the oldest
record shop in the world, but
it’s no museum attraction.
Spillers is really active in
promoting new music and it’s
a fantastic place to find out
Sherman Theatre
Cardiff City Stadium
Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay
what’s going on locally. They
sell local music, they publicise
live shows, they put on their
own gigs and they’re always out
and about supporting the music
scene in Cardiff.
I also try to pop in to
Catapult whenever I’m in town.
Electronic music and dance
music have always had a big
part to play within the Cardiff
scene. It has had some big
success stories and the story
seems to get better every year.
Both shops are really at the
heart of the independent music
community in Cardiff.
spillersrecords.co.uk
catapult.co.uk
Clwb Ifor Bach
My favourite venue in the world
is Clwb Ifor Bach, just around the
corner from Cardiff Castle. The
direct translation is ‘Little Ivor’s
Club’, about as uncool a name
as you could imagine, which
perversely makes it really cool.
Anyway, Clwb or ‘the Welsh
club’ as it’s known has been
going for over 25 years. There’s
music across three floors – it’s
the great place to see bands on
the rise and it has excellent club
nights. I’ve seen some terrific
gigs there and I’ve put on some
huge nights there.
clwb.net
Food and Drink
Nobody can live by music alone
and there are tons of awesome
places to eat and drink in
Cardiff. Gwdihŵ is a nice little
café bar during the day and
it has gig nights on in the
evening. Another place worth
visiting is the Urban Taphouse
on Womanby Street, down the
road from Clwb Ifor Bach.
It serves craft beers from all
over the world, as well their
own Tiny Rebel beer, which has
won loads of awards.
My favourite place to eat in
Cardiff is Restaurant Minuet,
also known as Marcello’s, after
the former owner. It’s a tiny
place in the Castle Arcade, just
opposite Cardiff Castle. It serves
fantastic pasta dishes named
after Marcello’s favourite opera
singers. It has been a Cardiff
institution since the ’80s and it’s
well worth seeking out.
Milgi is cool in the heavily
student-populated area of
Roath. It’s a very chilled café
bar and I’ve been to some great
parties there.
Chapter Arts Centre is also
a short journey from the city
centre, but it’s well worth it.
It’s recognised as the creative
hub of Cardiff, with exhibitions
and installations, cinema,
theatrical performances and
music. It’s also great to just
hang out there and grab
something to eat and drink.
You can’t leave Cardiff
without visiting The Pettigrew
Tea Rooms, practically
next door to Cardiff Castle.
As well as exotic teas like
Russian Caravan and their
lovely cakes they do a hearty
Welsh breakfast. It’s a lovely,
indulgent place.
gwdihw.co.uk
urbantaphouse.co.uk
restaurantminuet.co.uk
milgilounge.com
chapter.org
pettigrew-tearooms.com
visitcardiff.com
visitwales.com
25
Cross
Country
with Iolo
Williams
Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
We have a handful of wildlife reserves in
Wales that can compare with anywhere
else in the world. And by that, I mean the
Amazon rainforest, the Great Barrier Reef,
or the Serengeti National Park.
Foremost among all of them for me is
Skomer Island. You have to go and make
every effort to stay overnight, between
mid-April and the end of June or early
July. That’s when it’s at its best – when
you’ve got hundreds of thousands of
seabirds there, including 6,500 pairs of
puffins – and everybody loves puffins.
There are razorbills and guillemots, the
short-eared owl, and if you stay overnight
you’ve also got the Manx shearwater. If
you had to pick a single species of bird for
which Wales is internationally important it
would be this bird. On three islands alone
– Bardsey (off the Ll ŷn Peninsula), Skomer
and Skokholm (off the Pembrokeshire
coast) – Wales has well over half the
world’s population of this species.
Over 150,000 pairs of Manx
shearwater come alive at night. There’s
an amazing story of one found on
Bardsey Island that was first ringed as an
adult bird in 1955 and was last seen on
the island in 2009. It was estimated that
it had flown more than four million miles
(6.4 million km) in its lifetime – that’s
further than flying from the Earth to the
moon eight times.
welshwildlife.org
visitsnowdonia.info
Lake Vyrnwy, Montgomeryshire
The area is famous for its reservoir and
the Lake Vyrnwy hotel, but the biggest
attraction for me are the moorlands
around Lake Vyrnwy. This is where I
grew up. There are a number of fantastic
walks and it’s very quiet. You rarely see
another soul.
The environment has changed quite
dramatically since I was a child. Back then,
several gamekeepers were employed to
26 visitwales.com
manage the moor, which had positives
and negatives. There used to be plenty of
red grouse for shooting, as well as curlews
and lapwings, but there were virtually no
birds of prey because the gamekeepers
would shoot, trap or poison them.
Nowadays you’ll spot birds of prey like the
hen harrier and the merlin, as well as the
rare black grouse.
My favourite spot in the area is the
Rhiwargor waterfalls. It’s a series of falls –
if they came down in one go it would be
by some distance the highest waterfall in
the UK. As a youngster I’d climb down off
the moors and go fishing there and, in my
early years of courting we used to take
the girls up there for a barbecue – very
fond memories…
lakevyrnwy.com
rspb.org.uk
midwalesmyway.com
Cwm Idwal, Snowdonia
Cwm Idwal is just off the A5, so it’s easily
accessible – and it’s home to some very
rare plants left behind after the last ice
age. The rarest of all is the Snowdon
Lily, found in maybe half a dozen places
in Snowdonia and nowhere else in the
whole of the UK.
But Cwm Idwal offers more than that.
It’s a beautiful quarry lake – Llyn Idwal –
surrounded by an amphitheatre of cliffs
and it’s a wonderful place to escape. It’s
one of those unique places that evokes
the Welsh saying, ‘Lle i enaid gael llonydd’
– a place for a soul to find peace.
Historically it’s quite significant too,
because it’s one of the places Charles
Darwin sought out to find out more
about the ice age. It helped him to
formulate his theory of evolution. You
could spend a month in Snowdonia and
still have plenty of places left to explore.
There are so many hidden gems, but
I can’t tell you about them, otherwise
they wouldn’t be hidden any more,
would they…
eryri-npa.gov.uk
visitsnowdonia.info
Aberdaron, Llŷn Peninsula
So many visitors to the area head to
Criccieth and to Porthmadog, maybe as
far as Abersoch, but will head no further
west. By doing so they’re missing out on
one of the best bits of Wales.
It’s a wonderful place to go walking,
from Aberdaron, all the way round the
end of the Llŷn Peninsula, with views
looking out towards Bardsey Island. I tend
to go in winter, when there are far fewer
people around and you get the wind
whistling in from the Irish Sea. It’s just a
lovely time of year to go there.
There are plenty of things to see
along the way – it’s one of the best
places to meet a very rare crow called
the chough. You’ll often see 20 or 30
birds wheeling above you, especially
in high winds. When I’m searching for
a bit of solitude and clean air this is
where I go.
aberdaronlink.co.uk
visitsnowdonia.info
Bute Park, Cardiff
It might come as a surprise that one of
my favourite pieces of the countryside is
in the heart of the Welsh capital. You are
surrounded by 300,000 people living in
the area, yet along the River Taff in Bute
Park you can see otters, salmon
and kingfishers.
There are nesting sparrow hawks as
well as your common garden birds, like
blue tits and great tits. It’s the habitat
of green woodpeckers, great spotted
woodpeckers and tawny owls.
Cardiff is a wonderful city to visit – even
more so for the fact that you can take
some time out from the hustle. You can
find a nice quiet corner and just watch
the wildlife, or you can pick blackberries or
nuts. In fact, you can do most things you’d
do in the countryside, right in the heart of
the capital city of Wales.
bute-park.com
visitcardiff.com
Aberdaron
Rhiwargor Waterfalls
Cwm Idwal, Snowdonia
Bute Park
Spot otters in the heart of the city
Skomer Island
Atlantic puffin, Skomer Island
Lake Vyrnwy
visitwales.com
27
Events Diary 2015
It’s a big, busy year ahead, what with all that Test Match cricket and
World Cup rugby, festivals major and minor, parades and parties, and
the kind of oddball events that we’re proud to say couldn’t possibly
happen anywhere else but Wales (Llanwrtyd Wells, we’re looking at you).
Porthcawl
St David’s Day Parade
We can’t list everything here, or this magazine would weigh three
tons. But you’ll find full details on the internet, and we humbly
suggest visitwales.com as a good place to start. And if you can’t
find an event to thrill, delight, inform or educate you – or simply
make you laugh – we’ll refund your Severn Bridge toll.*
* Terms and conditions apply, the main one being, we’re only joking
XX 28
visitwales.com
JANUARY
10th January
World MTB Chariot Racing
Championships & Saturnalia Beer
Festival, Llanwrtyd Wells
Saturnalia was the major midwinter Roman
festival. In this version, you’re encouraged
to wear Roman dress, eat Roman food,
quaff fine ales and party with friends. The
chariot racing is just about the silliest,
funniest thing you can do on a mountain
bike – or rather a pair of them, harnessed to
a chariot made from an old steel drum. It’s
all huge fun.
green-events.co.uk
February
3rd–13th February
Quiltfest, Llangollen
Anything and everything to do with
quilt making: exhibitions, competitions,
demonstrations and workshops. The quilts
reflect the individuality and diversity of
their makers, and yet they are bound by
common threads of a shared culture.
quiltfest.org.uk
5th–10th February
Abertawe Festival for Young
Musicians, Swansea
An annual event comprising of competitive
and non-competitive classes in Piano,
Strings, Woodwind and Ensemble sections.
afym.org.uk
6th February
Wales v England, Cardiff
The Millennium Stadium hosts the opening
fixture of the 2015 Six Nations rugby
championship, as Wales take on England.
This year’s clash is even more piquant than
usual: Wales and England are drawn in the
same Rugby World Cup group later this year.
MARCH
1st March
St David’s Day Parade
To celebrate our Patron Saint’s day, there’s a
big parade through the centre of Cardiff, and
plenty of festivals, concerts, street parties
and other special events all over Wales.
stdavidsday.org
Anglesey Half Marathon
Chariot racing, Llanwrtyd Wells
1st March
Anglesey Half Marathon, Anglesey
This popular annual race takes runners
across the world famous Menai Bridge and
follows the coast road to Beaumaris Castle
and back.
angleseyhalfmarathon.com
14th March
Wales v Ireland, Cardiff
The penultimate round of the Six Nations
rugby championship, and what we
confidently predict will be the Triple Crown
decider…
23rd–27th March
Zoom International Youth Film
Festival, South Wales
Wales’s largest film event for young people
has workshops, awards, glitzy evening
screenings for all the family and short films
from all over the world.
zoomcymru.com
Quiltfest, Llangollen
visitwales.com
29
April
Walking in the Brecon Beacons
10th–12th April
The Laugharne Weekend
Like the town itself, the Laugharne
Weekend is quirkily brilliant, with the
oddest (in a good way) assortment
of literary and musical talent ever
assembled in one place, from Patti Smith
to Wilko Johnson. One thing’s for sure –
Dylan Thomas would have loved it.
thelaugharneweekend.com
17th–19th April
Dark Skies Festival, Hay-on-Wye
The Brecon Beacons National Park
is an International Dark Sky Reserve,
and the perfect place to observe the
night sky at any time of year. At this
special event at Hay-on-Wye there’ll be
displays, Solar Observing, a Planetarium
experience, a visit to the Spaceguard
Observatory (home to the National
Near Earth Objects Information
Centre), and night-time observations in
the company of experts.
darkskiesfestival.org
22nd–25th April
Focus Wales, Wrexham
This four-day annual festival
showcases 150+ bands and standup comedians, and hosts a series
of interactive sessions with music
industry experts. FOCUS Wales
2015 will mark the festival’s 5th
birthday, building upon 2014’s record
attendance across a jam-packed
weekend of events
focuswales.com
25th–26th April
Wonderwool Wales, Builth Wells
A fantastic range of Welsh and British
artisan products and an opportunity to
meet the wonderful people who made
them, showcasing the best in Welsh and
British wool and natural fibres.
wonderwoolwales.co.uk
MAY
1st–31st May
Ramblers Cymru Big Welsh Walk
You’re just two feet from exploring Wales
on foot this May. Join Ramblers Cymru or
partners on a walk and celebrate Ramblers
80th year.
ramblers.org.uk/wales
1st–3rd May
Machynlleth Comedy Festival
Mach has grown into a major date on the
comedy calendar, without losing its sense
of fun and mischief. There’s a big, eclectic
line-up in several quirky venues, served up
with lashings of local beer and cider. No
wonder performers love coming here.
machcomedyfest.co.uk
1st–4th May
Talgarth Walking Festival, Brecon
Beacons
Walkers of all ages and abilities can
participate in guided walks in the unspoilt
and stunning Brecon Beacons.
talgarthwalkingfestival.org
Free wheeling
Cycling the Mawddach Trail (Lon Mawddach)
30 visitwales.com
There are 1,200 miles (1,931km) of cycle paths on the
National Cycle Network, including 331 miles (532km) of
traffic-free rides which are perfect for families. Gentle runs,
like Monmouth’s Peregrine Path, the Mawddach Trail near
Dolgellau, and the Millennium Coastal Path, take just an
hour or so. The 250-mile (402km) Lôn Las Cymru, from
Holyhead to Chepstow, may take a little longer. For all
these and more, see sustrans.org.uk.
Road cycling, meanwhile, has become a national
obsession. In fact, the archdruid of British cycling, Sir Dave
Brailsford, says, “It’s hard to get a better area for cycling,
or a more stunning part of the world. Wales has some of
the most unbelievably fantastic scenery and roads. Our
environment, the topography, the scenery, the lakes, the
coast, the relatively calm traffic – it all makes it just brilliant
for enjoyable cycling.”
Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza
Green Man Festival
Sounds Exciting
Wales has consistently exported great musical talent across
the world – ranging from opera stars like Bryn Terfel to
creative troubadours like Gruff Rhys. In more recent years,
there’s been a welcome reversal, with Wales attracting
emerging musical talent to its growing list of world-class
music festivals.
The Green Man Festival at the Glanusk Estate in Mid
Wales and Festival No. 6 at Portmeirion are among the
most picturesque settings for any music event on the
planet. There’s Wakestock, the celebration of music and
watersports, near Abersoch, and the electronic music
festival Gottwood on Anglesey, as well as established events
like Brecon Jazz, which celebrated its 30th birthday in 2014.
Nobody ever really knows how these things happen,
but there has been a continued growth in the vibrant
contemporary music scene in Wales, with the likes of
Cate Le Bon, Georgia Ruth and H Hawkline making waves.
Chances are it has got something to do with Sŵn, the
independent music festival which takes place across the city
centre venues of Cardiff every year.
greenman.netfestivalnumber6.com
wakestock.co.ukgottwood.co.uk
breconjazz.orgswnfest.com
2nd–4th May
Llandudno Victorian Extravaganza
This graceful seaside resort returns to its
roots to celebrate its Victorian heritage.
An event packed full of steam engines,
Victorian musical organs, vintage cars,
costumes, curiosities and side shows.
victorian-extravaganza.com
8th–10th May
Tredegar House Folk Festival,
Newport
A rollicking weekend of international dance,
music and song, held in this fine Charles II
country mansion. Ceilidhs and clog-dancing
will certainly feature, and the odd hurdygurdy cannot be ruled out.
tredegarhousefestival.org.uk
17th–19th May
RHS Flower Show, Cardiff
Held in Bute Park against the backdrop
of Cardiff Castle, the show provides an
inspirational display of vibrant gardening,
floral delights and expert advice.
rhs.org.uk
21st–31st May
Hay Festival, Hay-on-Wye
Calling it a ‘book festival’ doesn’t even come
close to describing what goes on at this
incredible gathering of the world’s greatest
writers and thinkers. There are 900+ events
over the ten days, featuring politicians and
poets, scientists and comedians, novelists
and astronauts, economists and ecologists,
musicians and philosophers – all coming
together to kick around big ideas that will
change the way you think forever. The
format couldn’t be simpler: you turn up in
a big tent and listen to these geniuses, and
ask them questions. Last year, for example,
we collectively grilled the head of Google
on his tax shenanigans, listened to Stephen
Fry rhapsodise about Shakespeare, and
watched Benedict Cumberbatch sneak up
behind Dame Judy Dench (you had to be
there…). There’s also great food and drink,
lovely scenery – and plenty of books, of
course.
hayfestival.com
Hugh Dennis, Hay Festival
16th–17th May
Royal Welsh Agricultural Society
Spring Festival, Builth Wells
The number one event for smallholding,
gardening and sustainable living.
rwas.co.uk/spring-festival
16th–17th May
Snowdonia Slateman Triathlon,
Llanberis
There are two brutally brilliant triathlons
this weekend: the Sprint and the Full. Or if
you’re utterly rock-hard, complete both and
earn the coveted title of Slateman Savage,
you nutter.
snowdoniaslateman.com
visitwales.com
31
Mount Snowdon, part of the Welsh Three Peaks Challenge
Cowbridge Food and Drink Festival
21st–24th May
Aberystwyth Cycle Festival
This celebration of cycling attracts Britain’s
best bikers. Visitors can watch all the onand off-road action and also experience
the beautiful and undiscovered lanes of
Ceredigion on their own bikes.
abercyclefest.com
24th May
Welsh Open Stoneskimming
Championships, Llanwrtyd Wells
Stoneskimming is the ancient art of
bouncing stones as far as possible across
water. You can enter the fray or just enjoy
the amusing stone-themed events.
green-events.co.uk
24th–25th May
Cowbridge Food and Drink Festival
This award-winning festival sees the town
at its most vibrant with a weekend of
culinary excellence and all-round family
entertainment.
cowbridgefoodanddrink.org
All Wales Boat Show, Conwy
25th–26th May
Abergavenny Steam & Vintage Rally
A marvellous day out for the whole
family with steam and vintage vehicles, a
children’s playground, food village, rural
crafts and handicrafts.
abergavennysteamrally.co.uk
25th–30th May
Urdd Eisteddfod, Caerphilly
One of the largest cultural youth festivals
in Europe, around 100,000 come to watch
more than 15,000 children and young
people compete in song, dance, drama
and design.
urdd.org/eisteddfod
JUNE, JULY & AUGUST
Cardiff Festival
It’s a long, hot summer of activity in the
capital, with all kind of entertainment –
including gigs, theatre, street entertainers,
food festival, powerboating – gathered
under the Festival banner.
cardiff-festival.com
Great Welsh Beer & Cider Festival
32 visitwales.com
4th–6th June (tbc)
Great Welsh Beer & Cider Festival,
Cardiff
The recent surge of interest in artisan beer
and cider is heart-warming, and largely
thanks to the dogged efforts of CAMRA,
who held back the tides of industrial fizzy
lager. In 2014, they assembled the biggest
collection of proper Welsh beer and cider
under one roof, and are promising even
more this year. Iechyd da, we say.
gwbcf.org.uk
5th–7th June
All Wales Boat Show, Conwy
A celebratory festival of all water-based
activities, from wakeboarding to luxury
yachts.
allwalesboatshow.com
6th June
Big Welsh Trail, Coed Llandegla Forest
A half marathon and and 6.3 mile (10km)
route takes in some stunning and aweinspiring trails through the 650 hectares of
this beautiful forest.
bigwelshtrail.com
Literary links
Llandudno – This elegant resort has always been
proud of its links with Alice Liddell, the little girl
who inspired Alice in Wonderland, and who spent
her childhood holidays here. There’s already an
Alice trail to follow around Llandudno, and this
year they’re celebrating the 150th anniversary of
Lewis Carroll’s much-loved adventure with a series
of special events.
visitllandudno.org.uk
Llandaff, Cardiff – Roald Dahl was born in
Llandaff, attended the local Cathedral School,
and spent most of his boyhood in what is now a
prosperous suburb of Cardiff – which he wrote
about in his autobiography, Boy. The centenary of
Dahl’s birth in 2016 will spark lots of celebrations
in various places around the city, including the
Norwegian Church in Cardiff Bay, where Dahl was
baptised.
visitcardiff.com
Llŷn Peninsula – The priest and poet RS Thomas
often cut a forbidding figure. Yet he wrote in
English, with dazzling skill, and often with tender
beauty. RS served several rural parishes but is most
associated with the wild farming communities of
Llŷn, where he spent the last 33 years of his life.
visitsnowdonia.info
Gower, Swansea – Dylan Thomas’s haunts were
also the setting for Kingsley Amis’s 1986 Booker
Prize-winning novel, The Old Devils. Amis taught
English at Swansea University throughout the
1950s and his son and fellow novelist Martin Amis
was brought up here.
visitswanseabay.com
Abergavenny and Hay-on-Wye – The back
roads between our two great festival towns skirt
the edge of the Black Mountain through utterly
gorgeous countryside. This remote rural idyll
has inspired lots of artistic works, including two
notable novels: Owen Sheers’ Resistance and
Bruce Chatwin’s On the Black Hill.
visitwyevalley.com
13th–14th June
Man v Horse, Llanwrtyd Wells
Man has beaten horse just twice in the
34-year history of this 22-mile (35.4km)
race through gorgeous countryside. The
jackpot rises by £500 each year until it
is won; the last winning human, in 2004,
scooped £25,000. It took 25 years before a
man finally beat a horse, Huw Lobb won in
2hrs and 5mins beating the fastest horse by
2 minutes.
green-events.co.uk
13th–14th June
Welsh Three Peaks Challenge
Can you climb three of the most iconic
mountains in Wales – Pen y Fan, Cadair Idris
and Snowdon – in a single weekend?
snowdon500.co.uk
Llandudno
Llŷn Peninsula
Three Cliffs Bay, Gower
14th June
Velothon Wales, Cardiff
Around 15,000 professional and amateur
cyclists will take to the hills in the biggest
cycling event ever held in Wales. There are
31 mile (50km) and 75 mile (120km) routes,
which begin and end in Cardiff.
velothon-wales.co.uk
26th June–5th July (tbc)
Unity Festival, Cardiff
Unity showcases all kinds of inclusive and
disability arts – theatre, dance, music,
family shows, comedy. Moreover, it’s
simply fantastic entertainment of the
highest quality.
hijinx.org.uk/unity
14th–21st June
Cardiff Singer of the World
This world-class competition has helped
to launch the careers of some of the
finest classical singers around (including,
back in 1989, both Bryn Terfel and Dmitri
Hvorostovsky).
bbc.co.uk/cardiffsinger
27th June–5th July
Pembrokeshire Fish Week
This whopper of a festival has more than
250 events celebrating the county’s great
seafood and beautiful coastline. Learn
to fly-fish, go crab-catching, tuck into
the freshest seafood, get digging in a
sandcastle challenge, and much more.
pembrokeshirefishweek.co.uk
visitwales.com
33
Welsh international footballer Gareth Bale
Game for anything
What do the world’s most expensive footballer,
Wales’s Gareth Bale, British & Irish Lions rugby
captain Sam Warburton, and Olympic gold
medal cyclist Geraint Thomas have in common?
They all went to Whitchurch High School in
Cardiff (which also produced two other recent
Olympians, sprinter Matt Elias and ice dancer
Lloyd Jones).
Sport is a national obsession here, and we’re
not really bothered which sport. In football,
Swansea City FC have charmed the Premiership
with a slick passing game, while Cardiff City
are battling to get back into the top flight.
The Wales rugby team has enjoyed a hugely
successful decade, supplying the bulk of the
2013 British Lions.
We’re hosting eight of the 2015 Rugby
World Cup games at the Millennium Stadium,
which was built to stage the 1999 tournament.
We’ve also hosted major events like the Tour of
Britain cycling race, the Wales Rally GB, Ashes
Test cricket, Red Bull Cliff Diving and The 2010
Ryder Cup.
visitwales.com
JULY
2nd–5th July
North Wales Bluegrass Festival, Conwy
The UK’s longest-standing bluegrass festival
brings in talent from all over the world,
including its spiritual home, Appalachia. It’s
a fascinating genre, with its earliest roots
in British folk, filtered through AfricanAmerican, gospel and jazz influences.
northwalesbluegrass.co.uk
3rd–5th July
International Ceramics Festival,
Aberystwyth
This three-day festival has grown to
become the UK’s leading ceramics event.
Have a smashing time. Actually, on second
thoughts, don’t…
internationalceramicsfestival.org
3rd–5th July
Long Course Weekend, Tenby
Pembrokeshire plays host to one of the
toughest triathlons in Wales. Half the
competitors don’t finish – and those that
do represent the cream of triathlon talent
in the UK and the world.
longcourseweekend.com
4th July
British Speedway Grand Prix, Cardiff
The Millennium Stadium hosts its 14th
consecutive FIM British Speedway Grand Prix.
speedwaygp.com
34 visitwales.com
Llangollen International Eisteddfod
Wet Weekends
Surfing off the Gower Peninsula
7th–11th July
Llangollen International Eisteddfod
An extraordinary cultural celebration
featuring 4,000 competitors from around
the world in song, dance and music, and
performances by the biggest singing stars.
A Fringe event has also sprung up, taking
place in the town a week later.
international-eisteddfod.co.uk
Wales loves its watersports. How much?
Well, there’s a white water rafting course a
stone’s throw from the National Assembly
building in Cardiff Bay.
You’re spoilt for choice of great
kayaking and canoeing trips along
the rivers and lakes of Wales; or go
in search of the perfect wave on the
Gower Peninsula’s surfing beaches.
There’s also lots of fun to be had on a
coasteering adventure in Pembrokeshire,
the birthplace of the sport. Whether it’s
scuba diving, windsurfing, kite surfing or
stand-up paddle-boarding, the choices are
plentiful. There’s 870 miles (1,400km) of
coastline to explore, after all.
An exciting addition opens in 2015:
Surf Snowdonia is the world’s first
publically accessible Wavegarden – a
984ft (300m) long artificial surf lagoon
being built in the foothills of our tallest
mountain range.
visitwales.com/activities
British Speedway Grand Prix, Cardiff
8th–12th July
Investec Test Match, Cardiff
Cardiff’s SWALEC Stadium hosts the
opening Ashes test match against Australia,
as it did in 2009 when England’s last pair
James Anderson and Monty Panesar clung
on for a famous draw.
ecb.co.uk
Wakestock, Abersoch
10th–12th July
Wakestock, Abersoch
Europe’s largest wakeboard music festival
with free-to-watch wakeboarding by day
and music by night.
wakestock.co.uk
10th–12th July
Vintage Festival 2015, Pembrey
An amazing array of vintage vehicles and
their owners, dressed to impress in 1940s
and 50s style, with live music, makeovers,
and vintage fun fair at this unique coastand-countrysidepark.
facebook.com/vintagefunfestival
visitwales.com
35
20th–23rd July
Royal Welsh Show, Builth Wells
This huge agricultural show isn’t just about
cows and combine harvesters. With live
music, stunt displays, crafts stalls, great food
and a host of other attractions, you don’t
have to be a farmer (or Welsh) to love it.
rwas.co.uk
Brecon Jazz
24th–26th July
Big Cheese Festival, Caerphilly
A celebration of the history, heritage and
culture of Caerphilly with an extravaganza
of street entertainers, living history
encampments, music, dance, falconry,
fire eating and much more, all set around
Caerphilly Castle, one of the largest in Europe.
visitcaerphilly.com/events/
AUGUST
August
Cardiff Bay Beach
Roald Dahl Plass turns into a giant beach
for the summer, with paddling pool, live
music, traditional seaside rides and plenty
of family activities.
cardiffbaybeach.co.uk
1st–8th August
National Eisteddfod of Wales,
Welshpool (Meifod)
Wales’s biggest arts festival is also its
oldest, tracing its roots back to the year
1176. It’s an eclectic mix of old and new,
traditional and modern, and a celebration
of Wales’s culture and language. You don’t
have to speak (or be) Welsh to enjoy the
spectacle of an old language having very
contemporary fun.
eisteddfod.org.uk
7th–9th August
Brecon Jazz
To give you an idea of the calibre of acts
at this top jazz festival, Burt Bacharach and
Gregory Porter were the stars last year. Who
will it be this year?
breconjazz.org
11th–12th August
Anglesey County Show, Holyhead
The largest two-day agricultural show in
Wales has more than 350 trade stands,
entertainment marquee and country pursuits.
angleseyshow.org.uk
36 visitwales.com
National Museum, Cardiff
National Treasures
The seven National Museums of Wales are
brilliant places to explore our history and culture
– and they’re all free to visit.
The National Museum, Cardiff, houses literally
millions of historic artefacts, and also has one
of Europe’s greatest collections of European
impressionist art.
On the outskirts of Cardiff is the open-air
St Fagans National History Museum, where dozens
of buildings have been moved brick-by-brick to
the grounds of the magnificent St Fagans Castle.
At Big Pit National Coal Museum in Blaenavon,
visitors can descend 295ft (90m) below ground
to sample the tough working conditions of a coal
miner. By contrast, the Teifi Valley is a picturesque
rural setting for the National Wool Museum,
a restored mill which produced Welsh shawls,
blankets and bedcovers famed across the world.
The story of the Roman occupation of Wales
is vividly told at the National Roman Legion
Museum in Caerleon, while the National Slate
Museum in Snowdonia explores the quarrying
heritage of North Wales. The newest addition,
the National Waterfront Museum in Swansea,
celebrates the story of industry and innovation
in Wales.
museumwales.ac.uk
Ironman Wales, Tenby
Ironman Wales, Tenby
Royal Welsh Agricultural Show, Builth Wells
15th August (tbc)
Pride Cymru, Cardiff
The city-centre Parade kicks off a day of
live music that ends with an unmissable
After Party. It’s the biggest and best LGBT
bash in the calendar.
pridecymru.co.uk
15th August
Race the Train, Tywyn
The narrow-gauge Talyllyn steam train
is the pace-maker at this fabulous multiterrain race. There are several options, from
the Toddlers Trot (a lap of the field) to the
full 14-miler (22.5km), which the train can
usually manage in about 1hr 48min.
racethetrain.com
20th–23rd August
Green Man Festival, Crickhowell
Green Man was founded in 2003 as a
one-day campfire folk event, and still stands
out proudly in the left-field. It’s bigger –
around 20,000 capacity these days – but
still inhabits its own glorious alternative
universe. The setting is gorgeous, and
there’s the sheer diversity of entertainment:
ten areas, 1,500 performers, 24-hour
events, comedy, poetry, literature, wildlife
National Eisteddfod of Wales
Festival No. 6, Portmeirion
walks – and some of the best music around,
from cutting-edge contemporary stars to
venerable legends.
greenman.net
28th–30th August
Wales Senior Open,
Celtic Manor Resort
A host of international golfers on the
European Seniors Tour take on the Twenty
Ten Ryder Cup course in this golfing challenge.
celtic-manor.com
europeantour.com
29th August
World Bog Snorkelling Championship,
Llanwrtyd Wells
Now in its 30th year, daring competitors
battle it out in a 196-feet (60-metre) trench
cut into a peat bog for the coveted title of
World Champion Bog Snorkeller.
green-events.co.uk
September & October
Rugby World Cup, Cardiff
The Millennium Stadium plays host to eight
fixtures in this year’s Rugby World Cup,
including two quarter finals.
rugbyworldcup.com
3rd–6th September
Festival No. 6, Portmeirion
Truly a festival unlike any other, No. 6 is an
intimate, bespoke weekend of music, arts
and culture, set in and around the most
stunning festival site you will ever see. Pet
Shop Boys, Manic Street Preachers, Beck
and My Bloody Valentine were memorable
headliners in recent years.
festivalnumber6.com
13th September
Ironman Wales, Pembrokeshire
A 2.4-mile (3.8km) swim, a 112-mile
(180km) cycle, followed by a marathon,
with only 17 hours to complete it all. Just
an average Sunday really…
ironmanwales.com
19th–20th September
Abergavenny Food Festival
One of the biggest events in the UK
foodie calendar, with local produce and
international delicacies, celebrity chefs,
master classes, tastings and street stalls
all on the menu. See page 16 for more
information, and visitwales.com/proofpudding for a film we made there in 2014.
visitwales.com
37
Elvis Festival, Porthcawl
Anglesey Oyster Festival
19th–21st September
Guided Birding Weekend, Skomer
Skomer Island is one of the most
precious places for wildlife we have, with
internationally-important colonies of
birds, surrounded by the crystal waters
of a marine reserve. This three-night stay
puts visitors in the heart of this ecological
paradise.
welshwildlife.org
25th–27th September
Elvis Festival, Porthcawl
Elvis lives, thanks to the thousands of fans
and the tribute artists who attend this
annual gathering of blue suede shoes,
Vegas jumpsuits, and whopping sideburns.
elvies.co.uk
38 visitwales.com
Wales Rally GB
OCTOBER
Gwledd Conwy Feast, Conwy
This weekend festival is one of the biggest
celebrations of the music, art and food
of Wales. The quayside, the castle and
medieval streets burst with flavours, sounds
and sights.
gwleddconwyfeast.co.uk
7th–11th October
Iris Prize Festival, Cardiff
Cardiff’s international gay and lesbian
short film prize welcomes the best new
filmmaking talent to the capital.
irisprize.org
10th–11th October
Anglesey Oyster & Welsh Produce
Festival, Trearddur Bay
It started as an informal event where locals would
gather to eat oysters and get merry, but now
shows off all kinds of excellent local produce.
angleseyoysterfestival.com
NOVEMBER
13th–16th November
Wales Rally GB, Conwy
The British leg of the FIA Championship
has been based in Wales since 2000. With
the start and finish in Conwy the drivers
undertake the legendary tough first stages
of Wales, with cars and drivers accessible to
spectators at Deeside Service Park.
walesrallygb.com
13th November–3rd January
Cardiff Winter Wonderland &
Swansea Waterfront Wonderland
Ice-skating and rides, mulled wine and
roasted chestnuts... feel-good festivities in
Cardiff and Swansea’s Christmas villages.
cardiffswinterwonderland.com
swanseachristmas.com
Cardiff Winter Wonderland
DECEMBER
Santa Steam Specials
Father Christmas is the VIP passenger on
weekend rides on Wales’s narrow-gauge
Great Little Trains in December.
greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk
6th–7th December
Blackwood Christmas Market
The town centre comes to life with
stalls along the high street, funfair rides
and traditional entertainment. With real
reindeer visiting – and Santa will certainly
be putting in an appearance!
visitcaerphilly.com
7th December
Wrexham Christmas Market
One of the most eagerly awaited events in
the town’s calendar, attracting thousands
of shoppers each year, with music and
entertainment throughout the day.
wrexham.com
13th–14th December
Caerphilly Medieval Christmas Fayre
A mix of farmers’ stalls, continental market
stalls and genuine food and craft producers,
with musical entertainment, children’s
workshops, street theatre and Santa’s
grotto. Look out too for the annual River of
Light Parade in the town centre.
visitcaerphilly.com
31st December
Nos Galan Road Races, Mountain Ash
This annual race commemorates the
18th-century Welsh runner Guto Nyth Brân
(who was supposedly so quick, he could
blow out his candle and be in bed before
it was dark). There are races for all abilities,
street entertainment, a funfair and fabulous
firework display.
nosgalan.co.uk
All information is correct as we go to
press, but plans can change, so do check
the websites for up-to-date information
– and see visitwales.com for many more
events throughout the year.
Santa Steam Special
Nos Galan Road Races
Five things you didn’t know about Welsh
• Welsh is descended from Common Brittonic,
a Celtic language that was once spoken across
most of Britain. By the 6th century it had
separated into Welsh, Cornish, Cumbric and – in
northern France – Breton.
• Today around 562,000 people speak Welsh –
that’s around a fifth of the population.
• There is no letter K in the modern Welsh
alphabet, but it was widely used until the 16th
century. When the New Testament was first
published in Welsh, the printers didn’t have
enough Ks, so they replaced them all with Cs.
• In 1865 a Welsh colony was established in the
Chubut Province of Argentina. Today around 50,000
Argentinians claim Welsh descent, and the language
is still spoken there by several thousand people.
•T
he two Voyager spacecraft, launched in 1977,
each contain a golden record with images
and sounds from Earth recorded on them,
to be discovered by extra-terrestrial life. The
recordings include a greeting in Welsh. Voyager
1 is now in interstellar space, more than
19,000,000,000km from Aberystwyth.
See page 67 for more on the Welsh
language or visitwales.com
visitwales.com
39
everyone’s
T^y Coch Inn, Snowdonia
3rd best beach bar in the world
1 First the bad news: cars are banned
from Porthdinllaen unless you’re staying in
the village. But the walk to the pub, either
along the beach or the clifftop through our
most spectacularly-situated golf course,
Nefyn & District, is stunning. Drop down
into the tiny fishing village, maybe have a
quick swim, and stroll up to the bar with the
sand still between your toes. No wonder
Cheapflights.com voted it one of the top
beach bars in the world.
tycoch.co.uk
visitsnowdonia.info
Wales Coast Path
Best travel region in the world
2 Lonely Planet recently named the
Wales Coast Path the best travel region in
the world, by way of tribute to the 870-mile
(1,400km) route, which makes Wales the
world's only country with a continuous
path around its entire coast. Here’s what
they said: “What a wonderful thing: to walk
the entire length of a country’s coastline,
to trace its every nook, cranny, cliff-face,
indent and estuary. How better to truly
appreciate the shape – and soul – of a
nation?” Well said.
walescoastpath.gov.uk
Monmouth,
Monmouthshire
Best place to live in Wales
3 In 2014 the Sunday Times voted
Monmouth in the top three places to live
in the UK, which came as no surprise to its
inhabitants. It’s a proper old market town,
with lots of interesting shops, restaurants,
pubs, museums, a theatre, music festival,
and a rich history: it was the birthplace
of Henry V, and its 13th-century gated
40 visitwales.com
And the award goes to… us! We don’t want to appear
immodest, but we really have won quite a lot of awards recently.
So please allow for a small fanfare as we open the
golden envelope to reveal just a few of them.
bridge is the last of its kind in Britain. The
best views are from Kymin, a Georgian
gentlemen’s dining room, now in the care
of the National Trust.
walled town has garnered over the years.
Is it better than our other award-winning
beaches, such as Barafundle, Three Cliffs or
Llanddwyn? You decide.
visitmonmouthshire.com
Aberystwyth Farmers’
Market, Ceredigion
Rhossili, Swansea Bay
Best in the UK
7 But wait! Here’s the beach ranked the
best in the UK, third best in Europe, and
among the top ten in the world by a recent
TripAdvisor survey. It’s certainly a glorious
spot, with three miles of pristine sands,
towering cliffs, an ancient shipwreck, and
amazing walks out onto the Worm’s Head
promontory.
4 Held on the first and third Saturday of
every month, this gem of a market attracts
the best local producers. It’s not huge –
there are rarely more than 30 stalls – but
it’s the sheer quality and quirkiness of the
produce that won it the top prize in the BBC
Radio 4 Food and Farming Awards 2014.
aberystwythfarmersmarket.co.uk
Best beach in the UK
visitswanseabay.com
Isle of Anglesey
Royal Porthcawl Golf Club,
Bridgend
Top Ten UK islands to visit
Golf Club of the Year
5 TripAdvisor users seem to like Wales
rather a lot. Our beaches regularly top their
polls, and now a whole island has made
their top ten. They love the prehistoric
stones, the beaches, the castles, the
landscape – pretty much everything, in fact.
8 This classic seaside links is often cited
as Wales's best and scores highly in world
rankings. It was voted Club of the Year in
the 2013 Club Mirror Awards, who were
mightily impressed with Royal Porthcawl's
venerable history, but also how friendly
and forward-looking the club is. Bernhard
Langer won the Senior Open Championship
here in 2014 (the tournament returns in
2017) and the course will host the British
Amateur Championship in 2016. See if you
can match Tiger Woods' albatross two,
which he scored on the 17th as a young
amateur playing in the Walker Cup.
royalporthcawl.com
bridgendbites.com
visitanglesey.co.uk
Tenby, Pembrokeshire
Best beach in Europe
6 The online travel organisation,
European Best Destinations, has named
Tenby’s Harbour Beach as the most
beautiful in Europe, adding to all the
other awards that this impossibly pretty
1
2
3
4
5
visitwales.com
41
10
11
9
6
8
7
42 visitwales.com
Celtic Manor Resort, Newport
Best UK Hotel
9 Celtic Manor Resort always seems to win Top Conference Hotel at the various industry
awards. But this terrific resort hotel complex is also a really good place for a luxury family
break, or a golfing weekend – the Twenty Ten Ryder Cup course is one of three fabulous
championship courses here. celtic-manor.com / visitmonmouthshire.com
Penarth Pier, Vale of Glamorgan
Pier of the Year
10 A £4m makeover has turned the pier’s art deco Pavilion into a gallery, cinema, café
and observatory, which helped it win the National Piers Society’s top award in 2014. It’s
also a lovely place to stroll, fish, and catch a paddle steamer. The world’s most expensive
footballer, Cardiff boy Gareth Bale, recently filmed a TV advert on the pier – locals are still
debating the fashion merits of the hairband he was wearing.
penarthpavilion.co.uk / visitthevale.com
Brecon Beacons National Park
International Dark Sky Reserve
11 There are just eight of these magical reserves in the world, and on a clear night
in the Brecon Beacons you can see the Milky Way, all the major constellations, bright
nebulas and meteor showers. They run regular stargazing events throughout the year,
and on 17–19 April 2015 there’s a special Dark Skies Festival, based at the world-famous
book town, Hay-on-Wye. breconbeacons.org / darkskiesfestival.org /
midwalesmyway.com
visitwales.com
43
Sailing
on a cloud
Matthew Gravelle played the killer in ITV’s hit thriller
Broadchurch, while Mali Harries is the cop in the gritty drama
Hinterland. Now the couple are starring in a true-life family
adventure with their two children. Ready, and… action!
F
or a small country, Wales is actually – well, quite big – as we’re discovering
on our epic journey from our home in Cardiff to a family weekend in
North East Wales. We’ve both travelled around Wales quite a bit for work,
and recently Mali has been spending a lot of time on the west coast filming the
dark cop drama Hinterland, or Y Gwyll, as it’s known in Welsh.
But this top corner remains an enigma to us, and we’re looking forward to
getting to know it a little better. We’ve got lots of adventures planned – canal
boating, archery, fishing, heroic amounts of eating and drinking, etc – on top of
the adventure of the journey itself.
The drive takes four hours, which is weird, when we could drive to London
in half that. But what a drive! The road rises up through the Brecon Beacons
National Park, skirting along the English border before
striking west into hills that soon turn into mountains. The
roads twist and turn through villages hewn from granite
and slate. Just to remind you where you are, big red
dragon flags flutter from some of the houses.
Historically, Bala was a centre of Welsh political and
religious fervour. In 1800, 15-year-old Mary Jones walked
25 miles (40km) to Bala from her farm, barefoot, to buy a
copy of the Welsh Bible, thereby becoming the pin-up girl
for Welsh Protestantism.
After a comfortable night at a welcoming village inn
near Bala, we are on the road early, winding our way up into the Clwydian
Range. Tomi is desperate to try fishing, so we’re heading for Llandegla Fishery,
where a very patient young coach called Jamie teaches us the dark arts of
angling. Tomi is at the age when his attention span can flit a dozen ways in
a single second, and yet under Jamie’s guidance, Tomi is totally engrossed in
learning how to bait his hook with sweetcorn, how to cast properly, how not to
get his hook caught in reeds and how to watch the float for signs that a fish is
lurking below.
Fishing is a very calming activity, we learn. We spend a very zen two hours,
catch absolutely nothing – maybe the trout are bored of sweetcorn – but
weirdly, it really doesn’t matter. It’s a lovely place to spend a couple of hours,
and besides, there’s plenty of home-smoked rainbow trout for sale in the café.
“Every good holiday
should have an element
of the unexpected, making
things up on the hoof.”
CRUISE CONTROL
It’s time for us to move on to Llangollen, a handsome market town that’s
thronging with visitors to the Fringe Festival, an offshoot of the famous
44 visitwales.com
1
1. Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
2. Llyn Tegid
3. Tomi, Matthew, Mali and Ela
4. View west across Vale of Clwyd from
Bwlch Pen Barras, Clwydian Range
2
3
4
visitwales.com
45
International Eisteddfod. We’re heading
for the Llangollen Canal, built as part
of a network of waterways to connect
the coalfields and limestone quarries of
Denbighshire to the Midlands. Its most
notable feature is Thomas Telford’s
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, the highest and
longest in Britain, 984 feet (300m) in
length and soaring 98 feet (30m) above
the River Dee.
We arrive at Trefor Basin to collect our
boat, a traditional barge called Brenig,
which appears to be painted in British
Racing Green (odd, since the speed limit
is 4mph (6.4kph)). The children scramble
on and explore, while I get an hour of
instruction from the nice man from Anglo
Welsh on how to skipper the thing.
By the time we push off from our
mooring, I know the theory, but actually
steering this immense beast – it’s got an
old-fashioned tiller, rather than a wheel –
takes some getting used to.
Crossing the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is the
easy bit. Telford thoughtfully built it in an
arrow-straight line, and the cast iron walls
are only just wide enough to pass through,
so steering isn’t an issue. Instead I can
take in the exhilarating views as we float
serenely in mid-air.
I was enjoying the ride so much I didn’t
really think about how it was coming to
an end. There are two barges coming
in the opposite direction and I seem to
have forgotten everything I learnt about
steering. I bump into a poor unsuspecting
barge owner, causing him to throw his
supper into his lap. Oops. Sorry.
Back at our mooring, we feast on
Llandegla smoked trout, with broad beans
and new potatoes from my dad’s garden.
After supper we do old-fashioned family
stuff – play cards, draw pictures. As night
falls, the children settle into their cabin and
enjoy the best night’s sleep of the trip. It’s a
really cosy and comfortable place to sleep,
like a stretched caravan, except better
insulated, with its own wood-burner.
A new day dawns and this driving lark
seems much easier today. It gives us the
opportunity to relax and spot nooks and
corners that you don’t see from any road.
“It’s like sailing on a cloud,” observes Ela.
If the canal boat was the biggest
adventure of our holiday, today is the
biggest mystery: we haven’t a clue where
we’ll be sleeping tonight. But that’s fine –
every holiday should have an element of the
unexpected, making things up on the hoof.
So we head for Denbigh – and as it
turns out, Denbigh is great. It’s a fine
walled town built on a hill so there are
great vantage points wherever you are.
It has got its own ancient castle and
medieval streets to explore. And as luck
would have it, the Castle House boutique
B&B happens to have a family suite free,
which is perfect for us. The lovely Angie
and Charlie, who own this beautiful
property, are warm and easy company,
and full of information about the history
of their beautiful Georgian home, which
was made over in the Victorian era by a
wealthy Somerset socialite.
The part we are staying in, it transpires,
is set under the ruins of a cathedral that
was built in 1578 by Elizabeth I’s favourite
courtier, the Earl of Leicester – at least, until
he fell out of favour (and money) so the
cathedral was never finished.
6
46 visitwales.com
7
5
BOWS AND ARROWS
We stroll down to the town walls, where the
children fire imaginary arrows at invisible
attackers. The Welsh were always renowned
for their archery skills. In fact, Henry V’s
best bowmen were Welsh, the famous
Men of Gwent who routed the French at
Agincourt. Perhaps it’s still in our DNA? Only
one way to find out.
We’ve booked a family archery session
with Llangollen Outdoors, whose butts (that’s
a technical term for an archery pitch, by the
way) are seated at Coed y Glyn, a working
Llangollen Canal
To see Matthew and Mali in
action on the Llangollen Canal,
go to visitwales.com/cloud-sailing
5. Matthew and Mali
6. River Dee, Llangollen
7. Lake Vyrnwy
8. Tyddyn Llan, Llandrillo
sheep farm on the banks of the River Dee,
where our instructor Lianne awaits.
None of us have ever tried archery
before, and it turns out to be excellent
fun. Lianne shows us how to stop arrows
being inadvertently (or intentionally) stuck
anywhere they shouldn’t be (eg, sheep,
other people). She’s an excellent teacher,
and – gratifyingly – we all get steadily
better with every arrow. By the end of our
session, we’re all popping the balloons that
Lianne has stuck to the target, which adds
a satisfying bang to the pleasure of actually
hitting the target. If ever we start fighting
the French again, we certainly feel better
equipped to deal with it.
It’s the last night of our holiday, so we’re
splashing out on a night at one of Wales’s
best restaurants-with-rooms, Tyddyn Llan in
Llandrillo. It’s an elegant Georgian country
house, run by Sue and Bryan Webb, who’ve
won a Michelin star for their food. It’s
everything you’d expect: a sumptuous sixcourse taster menu using lots of fresh local
ingredients, while the children love their
wild bass followed by Eton mess.
northeastwales.co.uk
The official tourism website of this lovely
corner of Wales
anglowelsh.co.uk
Matthew and Mali hired their classic
narrowboat from Anglo Welsh, who hire
out boats for day trips and multi-night
cruises from Trefor Basin
visitbala.org
Llyn Tegid, or Bala Lake, is Snowdonia’s
main inland watersports hotspot
llandeglafishery.com
Friendly fishery in the Clwydian Hills,
suitable for experts and novices alike
castlehousebandb.co.uk
Five-star B&B in an idyllic hilltop spot in
the walled town of Denbigh
The children are also dazzled by
the grounds, with an ornamental
pond, croquet lawn and lots
of nooks in which to conceal
yourself. If Michelin awarded
stars for how good places are for
playing hide-and-seek, Tyddyn
Llan would score top marks.
It’s time to head back home, but not
before one last adventure, thanks to our
sat-nav, which takes us on a route round
unbelievably windy roads, deep into the
hills. We go through the Tanat Valley, a
narrow cleft that separates the Berwyn
Mountains from the Montgomery Hills,
until we arrive at Lake Vyrnwy – beautiful,
dramatic, Alpine looking. We know the way
home from here.
“Ydy’n ni bron ’na ’to?”
Not long, Tomi, I promise. Not long.
llangollenoutdoors.co.uk
Archery is one of many activities on offer,
others include rafting, kayaking, gorge
walking and climbing
tyddynllan.co.uk
Michelin-star food is the big draw at this
elegant manor house in delightful grounds.
8
visitwales.com
47
A Tour de Forts
We’ve got more castles per square mile than any country in the world, a
whopping 641 of them at the last count. Picking a favourite is as about as easy as
breaking into Harlech Castle – which once withstood a seven-year siege, the longest in
British history. But we think these nine are… well, exceptional.
Carreg Cennen Castle, near Llandeilo
Manorbier Castle
48 visitwales.com
Castell Dinas Bran
Cardiff Castle
Pennard Castle, Gower
Carew Castle, Pembrokeshire
Great for… interior decor
There are three castles for the price of one
in the heart of Cardiff: inside the Roman fort
is a Norman keep, which overlooks a neoGothic mansion that was lavishly refurbished
by the 3rd Marquis of Bute. He was, in the
1860s, the richest man in the world, which
is evident in the ridiculous opulence of the
décor (and there’s more of the same a few
miles away at his other castle, Castell Coch).
Great for… myths
It’s not so much the scant, sandy ruins of
Pennard Castle that appeal, but its stunning
location by a wooded valley that leads to
Three Cliffs Bay. The story goes that the
castle’s lord was holding a wedding party,
when he was annoyed by a group of noisy
fairies holding their own party nearby. The
lord ordered his men to chase the fairies
away with their swords; in revenge, the
fairies swamped the castle with sand.
Great for… access
Set in a stunning location, overlooking a
23-acre millpond with a working tidal mill,
Carew displays the development from a
Norman fortification to an Elizabethan
country house. They have a wheelchair
available on-site, by which there’s easy
access to the castle, gardens, mill, shops
and a delightful mile-long (1.6km) amble
around the millpond.
cardiffcastle.com
visitcardiff.com
cadw.wales.gov.uk
visitswanseabay.com
Caernarfon Castle,
Snowdonia
Castell Dinas Bran,
Denbighshire
Great for… views
Built on the site of an Iron Age fort, there
isn’t actually much left of this 13th-century
castle, which was already a ruin by the 16th
century, when it was a nesting place for
golden eagles. Even they have flown now,
but it’s still worth the trek up the hill for the
stunning 360-degree panorama of the Vale
of Llangollen.
Caerphilly Castle
Great for… history
All castles have romantic histories, but
Caernarfon’s unique design, featuring
polygonal towers with banded colours of
stone, is deliberately designed to evoke
the romance and power of the Roman
Empire. More recently, it’s also where
HRH Prince Charles was invested Prince of
Wales in 1969.
cadw.wales.gov.uk
visitsnowdonia.info
Cardiff Castle
Carreg Cennen Castle,
near Llandeilo
Manorbier Castle,
Pembrokeshire
Great for… older children
You walk through a rare-breeds farmyard
before scrambling up the limestone crag to
this castle, where a couple of special thrills
await: the dizzying precipice behind the
castle, and a secret passageway which leads
to a cave and natural spring, far beneath
the castle.
Great for… swimming
The 12-century scholar Gerald of Wales
described this as “the pleasantest spot in
Wales”, although since he was born here, he
may just be biased. Still, it is a lovely place:
a medieval des-res overlooking a sandy,
dune-backed beach that’s a favourite with
swimmers and surfers.
carregcennencastle.com
manorbiercastle.co.uk
pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk
Chirk Castle, near Wrexham
Great for… gardens
Built on an outcrop above the meeting
point of the rivers Dee and Ceiriog, Chirk
Castle’s award-winning gardens contain
clipped yews, herbaceous borders, shrub
and rock gardens. The castle itself is
sumptuous and fascinating, the last Welsh
fortress from the reign of Edward I that’s
still lived in today.
Caernarfon Castle
Caerphilly Castle, Caerphilly
Great for… younger children
This big cheese is the biggest castle in
Wales, and comes with all the features that
kids expect: mighty towers, an enormous
moat, drawbridge, and siege engines that
actually work. It also has a shop and baby
changing facilities (not original features, but
very handy for parents).
cadw.wales.gov.uk
thevalleys.co.uk
visitwales.com
49
The Reverend Lionel Fanthorpe at Tintern Abbey
St Issui’s Church
St Issui’s Church interior
XX visitwales.com
Tintern Abbey
St Martin’s Church
a
pilgrim’s
progress
Wales has an intriguing religious heritage, from humble,
mountain-top chapels to historic abbeys and cathedrals.
Each one has a story to tell. We joined writer and historian,
The Reverend Lionel Fanthorpe, on a day of discovery in the far
corners of Monmouthshire.
O
ur journey starts with a fairly
simple idea. If you want to find out
about the heritage and history of
a country, then you’d do well to explore
its oldest interiors. There are places of
worship in Wales that date back a thousand
years and more and the majority of these
churches, chapels and cathedrals continue
to be in daily use. These ancient places
are wonderful capsules of history – where
you can see the sights, hear the sounds
and breathe in the same air as people have
done for centuries.
This is exactly how it feels to be standing
in the small hillside church of St Issui,
Partishow, above the remote Nant Mair
Valley in the Black Mountains.
It’s a place that would appear to have
been an active place of worship since the
Celtic Christian Issui settled here in the
6th or 7th century. The church was built
around 500 years later and has remained
a place of worship that feels completely
tucked away from the rest of the world
– one of those very rare places where
you get a sense of being completely
suspended in time.
THESE HOLY MOUNTAINS
The unusual sight of a chap wandering
among the gravestones, wearing a dog
collar and a Harley Davidson leather jacket
brings you back to the 21st century. The
Reverend in question is Lionel Fanthorpe.
He is the author of hundreds of books,
from prayers to science fiction, talking
stones to mysterious murders. He has
presented TV programmes for almost as
long as television itself has existed and is a
prize-winning poet. He is also a member of
Equity and Mensa.
He’s clearly in his element in what he
describes as “these holy mountains.”
“One of God’s greatest gifts,” he points
out, “is our sense of curiosity, our desire
to find out, to unravel mysteries that have
been there for hundreds of years. And
when you come to an old church like this
one at St Issui, then you begin to look
for the mysteries it may hold. There are
the enigmatic medieval paintings on the
walls, the intricate wood carving of the
16th-century rood screen, the ancient
churchyard cross… There’s a strong
feeling of intrigue and mystery and that’s
something that fascinates me.”
It’s just a short drive of around eight
miles (12.8km) to Cwmyoy in the Vale
of Ewyas in the Black Mountains, named
after the small Welsh kingdom of Ewyas,
established after the retreat of the Romans
from Wales in the 5th century.
Cwmyoy is situated near Offa’s Dyke
which marks the border between Wales
and England. The area is well known for
the Grade 1 listed ruins of Llanthony
Priory, established early in the 12th
century. Nearby, the remarkable St
Martin’s Church dates back to the 13th
century and is best known for still being
structurally intact.
It’s claimed that St Martin’s is the most
crooked church in Britain, with the church
tower listing over six feet (1.8m) which is
apparently more than the leaning tower of
Pisa. There’s a bit of creative licence in the
claim that the crooked nature of the church
structure is a result of a terrible earthquake,
which occurred at the precise moment
Jesus Christ was being nailed to the cross
on Calvary. Nonetheless, St Martin’s still has
to be seen to be believed.
“The other interesting element to the
church is a cross dating back to the 13th
century,” adds Lionel. “Apparently it used to
mark the pilgrims’ route up to Brecon and
onwards to St David’s in Pembrokeshire.
“The cross was housed for safekeeping
in the church, but disappeared in 1967. It
was tracked down by a local woman to an
antique shop in London and was retrieved.
It’s now permanently fixed to the floor of
the church.”
We close the door to St Martin’s as
gently as we can, just in case it’s the fateful
click that causes the entire building to
collapse to its foundations. As we breathe a
sigh of relief, Lionel whispers mischievously:
“You’re going to like this next place.”
WHAT THE BUTLER SWORE
The journey itself is certainly more than we
could have bargained for, even though it’s
just a short distance across the valley and
north towards Gospel Pass, named after the
route taken by 12th-century fundraisers for
the Crusades.
We find ourselves trundling slowly in
the wake of a tractor with an enormous
trailer stacked with hay bales. As the
overhanging trees scraping the bales
creates a snowstorm of hay, an oncoming
bike rider lurches past us, missing the car
by inches.
The cyclist is none other than
Eddie Butler, much-loved BBC sports
commentator and a man renowned for
his rich use of the English language. In this
case the communication directed at us is
distinctly Anglo-Saxon and certainly not fit
for broadcast.
It’s appropriate that there’s almost a
sense of farce to proceedings as we pull up
visitwales.com
51
at St Mary’s Church in the hamlet of Capely-ffin near Abergavenny. There it is, this tiny
place of worship, just 26 feet (8m) long and
13 feet (4m) wide, with its wonky turret, as
if a beehive has just landed on the roof.
Inside, there is a pulpit, a church organ
and even a gallery. It’s a truly remarkable
little building, built in the 18th century, on
the grounds of a 15th-century church fallen
to ruin. St Mary’s has been immortalised
by the 19th-century clergyman and diarist
Francis Kilvert (who compared its curiouslooking exterior with the expression of an
owl), as well as 20th-century artist and poet
David Jones.
Jones was part of a community of artists
who were led to Capel-y-ffin in the 1920s by
Eric Gill, creator of the Gill Sans and Perpetua
typefaces. Gill is said to have cut two of the
headstones in the churchyard. Gill, Jones and
the gang lived for four years along the road
at Llanthony Tertia, another location with an
eccentric history worth exploring.
“Homely isn’t it,” smiles Lionel. “I’ve
sometimes been asked to come and speak
at a house church and this reminds me of
that certain feeling you get from stepping
into someone’s home, that is quite
different from a traditional church.”
We leave the remote foothills of the Black
Mountains and repair to the Skirrid Inn in
the village of Llanfihangel Crucorney. As with
these things, it’s impossible to know whether
the Skirrid is the oldest pub in Wales,
but there can’t be many other drinking
establishments with a more colourful history.
If you think that a pint of cider in a
haunted pub is a hard act to follow then
you’ve never visited Tintern Abbey. It’s just
a 30-mile (48km) drive from our first port
Llanthony Priory
52 visitwales.com
“You don’t have to be
of religious faith to get
something wonderful
from visiting these
churches.”
of call to our final destination in the Wye
Valley but the modesty of Partrishow is in
direct contrast to the grandeur of Tintern.
It has been immortalised by an unlikely
trio of poets – William Wordsworth, Alfred,
Lord Tennyson and Allen Ginsberg – and
has been painted by eminent landscape
artist JMW Turner.
Tintern’s origins hark back to the 12th
century, when it became home to the first
community of Cistercian monks in Wales.
That community thrived for the best part of
four centuries – its reported annual income
in 1535 was £192, making it the wealthiest
abbey in Wales. A year later, however, the
abbey was surrendered in the first Act
of Supression, following a breakdown in
relations between the Church in Rome and
King Henry VIII.
Having fallen into ruin, Tintern had an
unlikely comeback in the 18th century as
one of the first tourist attractions in Wales.
The Wye Valley became very popular with
visitors in search of ‘the picturesque’, a new
concept created by the Reverend William
Gilpin, a one-man Trip Advisor of his time.
Mention of Tintern in his book Observations
on the River Wye, drew people from far and
wide to visit its splendid ruins.
But for Lionel, it’s the community created
in and around this magnificent place of
worship that gives Tintern its magic all
Tintern Abbey
these centuries later. “People seem to come
here to contemplate,” he says, “to wonder,
in the traditional sense of the word.”
Well, as we’re in this place of
contemplation, it seems appropriate to do
just that. In one day we’ve learned a lot.
We’ve asked a lot of questions, not all of
which have been answered. We’ve visited
the birthplace of Christianity in Wales
(arguably) and seen some sights to baffle the
keenest building regulations experts. Above
all, it feels like we’ve really got to know this
beautiful and mysterious part of Wales.
“Although I believe that each of these
separate places has a spiritual donation
to make to the visitor,” says Lionel, “you
don’t have to be a Christian worshipper,
or of any religious faith for that matter,
to get something wonderful from visiting
these churches.
“These are places where acts of goodness
took place – where people practised their
faith and learned about acts of good nature.
They vowed to be loyal, forgiving and kind,
not just to God, but to each other.
“The remarkable thing is that this didn’t
happen at these locations for a few years,
or decades, but for centuries. In my mind
it’s inconceivable that these special, ancient
environments, can be anything other than a
little magical.”
It’s not the easiest concept to grasp,
admittedly, but the Reverend makes a valid
point. We’re talking about tiny patches of
ground with great big stories to tell. These are
places that have drawn visitors for many years
– and will continue to do so for many more.
Join Lionel on his tour of these intriguing
sites at visitwales.com/pilgrim-progress
faithtofaith
Useful guides to set you on your way to
exploring historic places of worship in Wales
North Wales
The Sacred Doorways
Network
A collection of five trails
connecting churches and
chapels in rural Conwy.
visitllandudno.org.uk/
heritage/sacred-trails
Wrexham Open Churches
Network
Explore the architecture and
history of 16 churches in the
gentle countryside of the
North Wales borders.
openchurchnetwork.co.uk
The Celtic Circle,
Isle of Anglesey
A 25-mile (40km) heritage
trail on the west coast of the
Isle of Anglesey taking in ten
of the island’s most historic
and beautiful churches.
celtic-circle.co.uk
The North Wales
Pilgrims’ Way
A 130-mile (209km) walking
trail from Basingwerk Abbey,
Flintshire to Bardsey Island,
connecting many sacred sites
that were visited by pilgrims.
pilgrims-way-north-wales.org
Mid Wales
Peaceful Places
North Ceredigion’s sacred
landscapes are brought to
life on a trail featuring 14
churches and chapels, telling
the story of each in the
context of its surrounding
landscape and community.
peaceful-places.com
Living Stones
Heritage Trail
Three trails featuring 15
churches and chapels in
North Montgomeryshire.
living-stones.info
The Ann Griffiths Walk
A seven-mile (11km) walk
around the places associated
with Ann Griffiths – a prolific
18th-century hymn writer,
who was inspired to compose
by the drama and beauty of
the local landscape.
ldwa.org.uk/ldp/members/
show_path.php?path_
name=Ann+Griffiths+Walk
Monks Trod
Monks Trod, or Monks Way
as it is also known is thought
of as the path that Cistercian
Monks took between the
abbeys of Strata Florida in
Ceredigion and Abbey Cwm
Hir, 35 miles (56km) away.
cistercian-way.newport.ac.uk/
place.asp?PlaceID=173
Gwastedyn Church Trail
A circular 36-mile (57km)
trail over an established
Pilgrimage route.
rhayader.co.uk
Ceredigion Faith Trails
Historic church sites range
from the early churches of
St David at Henfynyw and
Llanddewi Brefi to the historic
chapels of Daniel Rowland
at Llangeitho and Thomas
Phillips at Neuadd Lwyd.
ceredigionfaithtrail.com/en/
index.php
Pan Wales
The Cistercian Way
A pan-Wales walking trail
linking the main Cistercian
Abbeys of Wales. Created
to celebrate the 900th
anniversary of the
Cistercian Order.
cistercian-way.newport.ac.uk
Llandaff Cathedral
South West Wales
Saints and Stones
A collection of five pilgrimage
trails across Pembrokeshire
linking sites with relevance to
the Christian faith.
saintsandstones.co.uk/
pilgrimages.php?section=sea
Gower Church Trail
A leaflet produced by
the Church in Wales
giving details of the
places of worship in the
first designated Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty
in Britain. It includes a
short walking tour around
St Madoc’s Church in
Llanmadoc.
the-gower.com/
placesofworship/church/
inthestepsofthesaints
St Govans Chapel
Neath Abbey
South Wales
Newport Chartist Walk
A trail around Newport
detailing important sites for
the history of Chartism in
the area. It includes some
religious sites such as
St Woolo’s Cathedral and
St Mary’s.
newport.gov.uk
St Trillo’s Chapel
Poets, Priests and Pubs
A selection of ten fascinating
walks celebrating the lives
and work of some of the
finest Welsh poets.
poetspriestsandpubs.org
Visit Cardiff Churches
and Visit the Vale
Churches
Comprehensive details of
Churches across Cardiff and
the Vale of Glamorgan.
visitcardiffchurches.com
visitvalechurches.com
St Woolos Cathedral
Llangelynnin Old Church
Gears
mud,sweat and
rachel atherton
Meet the Athertons. Rachel, Gee and Dan are a sibling
trio of professional bikers with a host of world titles to
their names. They compete at events around the world,
but nothing beats biking around their home patch
along the North Wales borders.
I
f you wanted proof that mountain biking is part of the fabric of Wales, then
all you have to do is speak to youngest sibling Rachel Atherton, the most
successful British mountain biker in the history of the sport.
Elder brothers Dan and Gee, meanwhile, join forces with Rachel to guide you
through some of the best experiences you can have on (or off) a mountain bike
in Wales.
“We moved up to Llanrhaeadr about ten years ago. We wanted to choose
somewhere that offered the best mountain biking and this area is my mum’s
spiritual home. She’s very earthy and really in touch with her hippy side, free and
outdoorsy. My dad’s equally enthusiastic about the outdoors life, but also has a
determined, competitive edge and believes you can achieve anything you want
to in life if you have the passion and the desire.
“A lot of our success in mountain biking comes from our upbringing. We grew
up outdoors and in tune with nature. It gave us such an appreciation of what’s
real and what’s important. We’ve got a couple of bike tracks that we built here
when we moved ten years ago, planting tiny little fir trees and conifers and now
the trees are huge and it’s wonderful to grow up with it.
“The Berwyn Mountains are awesome whether you’re on a bike or on foot.
The area around Llangollen is beautiful. We’ve got some tracks around
Betws-y-Coed too and that’s amazing because you can finish your ride and just
jump straight in the river.
“This area is so special to us. When we moved here there wasn’t really a
mountain biking scene. Now within an hour of this place there are four or five
Blazing a trail in the
Berwyn Mountains
54 visitwales.com
Rachel Atherton on
champion form
I feel privileged to be able to travel all over
the world to compete in my sport. I compete in
the Alps and the mountains of Canada. I’m happy
on the road, it’s great to travel around with Gee,
my brother, and the support team who work with
us. But it’s great to come home to our little corner
of Wales, with the knowledge that the place you
live in is just as amazing as any place you’ve been.
It’s so beautiful, so peaceful.
rachel
visitwales.com
55
1
2
3
well-established tracks. My older brother, Dan, has played a
big part building the tracks in the area. He’s just moved to
Machynlleth in the Dyfi Valley because of the potential there
for great riding, We reckon he’s run out of space to dig out
any more trails at home, so he’s had to go further afield.
“Riding in the Dyfi area makes me feel like I am
completely connected with the land. One minute you’re
smashing down a gnarly, eye-watering downhill, rocks flying
off your tyres and your heart pounding, literally bubbling
with the excitement. The next you’re hurtling onto a path
bathed in sunlight, with foxgloves fighting for space, bees
lazily floating around, a stream trickling below mossy
banks, the smell of pine and red kites circling high above.
The contrast is startling. I can’t help but be grateful for the
opportunity to experience our home country as it always
has been – and having an incredible time doing it! This is
why I love mountain biking in Wales.
“People often ask whether it’s possible to ride just for
kicks and for a few years I think we got wrapped up with
the training side of things. Now we’re back to basics – we
ride because we love it. It’s such a cool place. We might be
preparing for the next world cup event, but the people we
go out with will be friends from around the area who are
out for pure pleasure, to get the most enjoyment they can
out of the day. It does rub off on you, thinking maybe this
doesn’t class as a training day because we’re having too
much fun.
“Away from the bikes, we bought a little boat quite
recently so every opportunity we get we head over to
Aberdovey, or Ynyslas. We’ve always been in the mountains
and it’s great to explore the coastline, it’s like you’re on
a permanent holiday when you’re there. Dan summed it
up perfectly. He’d been out training all morning doing a
massive ride and he took the boat to Aberdovey and he
said: “I really can’t believe that this is my life.”
“He’s right. This is just day-to-day. What’s even better is
that you don’t have to travel far to get anywhere. You can
be up in the mountains one minute and right on the beach
20 min later.”
Biking without barriers
4
Wales has plenty of fully-accessible downhill runs, ranging
from a coaching track at Afan Bike Park, to intermediate
tracks at BikePark Wales and, for the more extreme rider,
Black-graded runs at Cwmcarn and Antur Stiniog. To
help make mountain biking accessible to all, the Welsh
Government supports Project ENDURO, which is creating
a new four-wheeled mountain bike for use by disabled
people. By 2015 we hope to have their bikes available
to buy or hire in several venues - see Project ENDURO’s
Facebook page for the latest news.
1. Antur Stiniog, Blaenau Ffestiniog
2. It’s never too late to enjoy the ride
3. White Levels Route, Afan Forest Park
4. Coed-y-Brenin, Snowdonia
5. BikePark Wales, South Wales Valleys.
56 visitwales.com
THE ATHERTONS’
guide to mountain
biking in Wales
…a warm welcome:
Coed Llandegla, North
Wales Borders
It’s not the most technical set
of trails in the world but the
downhills are really fun and
flowy and it has something for
everyone – you could easily
take kids on their blue track. We
always get a great welcome and
it’s not far from home so it gets
a definite thumbs-up from me.
Gee
Llandegla is brilliant, everyone
from the café and bike shop
staff to the riders themselves are
super-friendly and always happy
to chat. When I ride the loops
there it puts a huge smile on my
face because everyone is always
shouting hello to me as I overtake
them on the downhills, or as they
overtake me on the uphills!
Rachel
coedllandegla.com
… a tough ride:
Afan Forest Park, South Wales
Afan Forest Park has got some
mega trails with fantastic views
out over the coast. But they
are long and you’ve got to be
prepared to climb – going to
leave this one to Dan!
Gee
I raced (and won) an Enduro race
there so I have fond memories
in one respect – though most of
them are muddy, damn cold and
exhausted memories. There’s a
lot of climbing! Think how good
you’ll feel afterwards though –
some great riding to be had!
Dan
afanforestpark.co.uk
…a secret hideaway:
The ClimachX trail, Dyfi Valley,
North Wales Borders
5
…the perfect introduction: BikePark Wales, South Wales Valleys
This is absolutely the best place to start your riding life. The facilities are great
– a lovely café, bike shop, bike hire and kids pump track. There are crosscountry routes and downhill uplifts, plus there’s a great variety of tracks, from
super-easy to tricky rock gardens. Nothing is too hard or too steep.
Rachel
The team at BPW are putting in a load of work to keep improving. The
welcome is friendly and it’s not intimidating at all. We even took Gill, our team
PA up there, and she’s only ridden to the shops before!
Gee
This really is the hidden gem of
Wales, with no café or centre at the
bottom. It is easily overlooked, but
once you’re on the bike you will be
amazed with the mixture of natural
rocky trails and man-made sections,
finishing with one of the longest
descents in the UK. You’ll be smiling
all the way round.
Dan
The Dyfi Valley is breathtaking and
it boasts Wales’s finest attributes:
never ending woodland, rivers, moss,
old slate quarries, startling bed-rock
outcrops and even sea views over to
Ynyslas and Aberdovey.
Rachel
dyfimountainbiking.org.uk
bikeparkwales.com
…cheap thrills:
…all round facilities:
Antur Stiniog, Snowdonia
Coed-y-Brenin, Snowdonia
Stiniog is awesome, I love training
there for World Cups or riding with
a bunch of mates. It’s so well built
that the ‘cheap thrills’ are easy to get
because all you gotta do is let your
brakes off! The tracks are flat-out
fast and have some really good hard
technical rocky sections. Depending
on how brave you feel on the day,
there’s a solid choice of tracks, from
blue, red, all the way to double black.
The thrills are certainly easy to find!
Rachel
Dan Brown, our team director, loves
Coed-y-Brenin – mainly because
he can beat me there I think! The
uphills are definitely too long for
me! They’re doing a fantastic job of
making mountain biking accessible
to loads more people, which is
something we’re really passionate
about. They’ve got this new trail
called the MinorTaur which is great
for first timers, kids, and adaptive
bikes. There’s loads of fun stuff on it
too like table tops and real nice flowy
berms that anyone could enjoy.
We ran an Atherton Experience Day
at Antur Stiniog in 2014 and it was
an amazing day. The sun shone and
I did some coaching sessions up at
the top. It was cool to see people
just building confidence, rolling
down things at first then slowly
picking up the pace. The uplift
service is one of the best there is
so you’ll be able to cram in loads of
rides during your day.
Dan
anturstiniog.com
Gee
I’m always surprised when I ride
at Coed-y-Brenin how good the
trails are – and how many amazing,
downhill sections there are that pop
up off the main loop! The river is
awesome for a mid-ride dip and if
you are keen you can ride the back
roads to Dolgellau for a pub lunch!
Rachel
mbwales.com
…a relaxed atmosphere:
Revolution Bike Park, North Wales
Borders
We lived in Llangynog for a few years, so
it’s a kind of homecoming. You always end
up running into a few friendly faces. It’s
where big brother Dan built his infamous
and epic ‘quarry line’, the star of the film
we made with Red Bull in 2013. It’s not
open to the public to ride but watch
the film, and then go and ride the trails.
They’re challenging for sure but majorly
fun – and the guys who run it love digging
almost as much as Dan so there’s always
something new in the pipeline.
Gee
Revolution is amazing. It’s challenging on
pretty much all of the routes so you’re
always likely to find top riders training up
there. They’ve got a good system going
and they’re constantly pushing forwards
and changing things but they also let me
carve out the massive quarry line for the
Red Bull film and dig the world’s tallest dirt
quarter for Bas Keep and his BMX. They’re
always there at the cutting edge of all
things riding.
Dan
revolutionbikepark.co.uk
visitwales.com
57
walkthewalkt@lkthetalk
What’s your favourite walk in Wales? That’s the question we asked the 500,000 Visit Wales followers on
Facebook and Twitter, and they posted a whole lifetime’s worth of epic mountain treks, coastal strolls and rural
rambles. Here are just a few of our favourites.
Adam and Eve rocks, Tryfan
12 visitwales.co.uk
58 visitwales.com
2
“Stackpole Quay to Bosherston,
via Barafundle in Pembrokeshire.”
Wendy Lewis
hours
This ravishing stretch of coastline has cliffs,
sandy beaches, wooded valleys, tiny coves and
the best lily ponds ever. The walk begins at
Stackpole Quay, a tiny harbour used by local
fishermen and kayakers. Cross the cliffs to
Barafundle, often cited as the prettiest beach
in Britain, and onward to the Bosherston Lakes,
a haven for otters, water birds, dragonflies and
lilies. Lots of our Facebook fans mentioned
this walk, including one who notes, “Be careful
though as it’s possible to wander into the nearby
St Govan’s Inn and be waylaid by a delightful
ale.” You have been warned.
5 miles (8km) round-trip from Stackpole
3.5
hours
“The Elan Valley trail near Rhayader.”
Ann Lloyd
The Elan Valley reservoirs were built by the
Victorians to supply water to the English
Midlands, and they lie among 72 square miles
(115 square km) of the most spectacular and
peaceful landscapes in Wales. The nine-mile
(14km) Elan Valley Trail was created to allow
better access for walkers, cyclists, horse-riders
and the less able, following an old railway line
deep into this unspoilt oasis.
9 miles (14km)
elanvalley.org.uk
midwalesmyway.com
“The walk around Dinas Island, near
Fishguard, is fantastic.”
Sheila Hutson
We do like circular walks, and the hike round
Dinas Island is one of the very best. Start at
Pwllgwaelod (where there’s a good pub, which’ll
come in handy later) and climb the clifftop
path to the highest point on the Pembrokeshire
Coast Path. Drop down to the ruined church at
Cwm yr Eglwys, then back through the woods
to your starting point. Did we mention there’s a
pub there?
3 miles (4.8km)
2
hours
visitwales.com
59
5.5
“Cadair Idris on a sunny day is just
unbeatable. Stop for a bite to eat at
the lake. The views from the top are
unmissable.”
Mark Pettit
hours
Snowdon may be higher, but our straw poll revealed
Cadair Idris as the most loved mountain walk in
Snowdonia. Our favourite route is the Minffordd
Path, which rises steeply through the woods, before
crossing the moraine to Llyn Cau – which as Mark
says, is the perfect place for a picnic and paddle on a
sunny day. Then there’s another steep ascent to the
ridge that eventually leads to the summit, where the
views are incredible.
6 miles (9.6km) round trip from Minffordd
eryri-npa.gov.uk / visitsnowdonia.info
“The hike up Pen y Fan in the
Brecon Beacons.”
Linda Scanlon
The highest point in southern Britain, the summit
of Pen y Fan has soaring views across the Brecon
Beacons National Park. You can do the whole thing in
a couple of hours from the car park at Storey Arms, or
there’s a longer ridge walk, taking in all the subsidiary
peaks, from the Neuadd reservoirs – which is also the
point from which SAS soldiers do their famous ‘Fan
Dance’ march. The views at night are spectacular, too:
this is also an International Dark Sky Reserve.
2.5
4 miles (6.4km) round-trip from Storey Arms
breconbeacons.org / midwalesmyway.com
hours
“Tryfan – with a jump across
Adam and Eve!”
Sian Lowri Dunne
2.5
hours
60 visitwales.com
Tryfan lies like a sleeping stegosaurus on the side of
the A5 between Betws-y-Coed and Bethesda, daring
you to scramble up its spiny flanks. This is reputedly
the only mountain in Wales which is impossible to
climb without using your hands. We like it because
it’s short, sharp, and utterly stunning when you finally
scramble to the top. Adam and Eve are two telephone
box-sized slabs that mark the summit. To earn the
freedom of Tryfan you’re supposed to jump from
one to the other (strictly optional, in our book – it’s
properly scary). You can, however, earn bonus points
for pronouncing it ‘truh’van’, like we do.
3 miles (4.8km)
eryri-npa.gov.uk / visitsnowdonia.info
Have you got a
favourite w@lk?
Tweet us
@visitwales, or go to
visitwales.com/walking
for more
stupendous
strolls
North Wales
A blast along the beach on a windy day
in Talacre – blows away all the cobwebs
and leaves my senses singing and my
cheeks stinging!
Sue Stone
The coastal path from Lligwy Bay around
to Moelfre in Anglesey. A bit of crab
fishing off the rocks just by the lifeboat
house. Late lunch at the Kinmel Arms
before the walk back. Perfect.
Sarah Griffith
visitanglesey.co.uk
Down to the Tŷ Coch Inn on the beach
at Porthdinllaen.
Des Young
visitsnowdonia.info
Definitely the Miners’ Track up Snowdon!
Suzanne Jackson
visitsnowdonia.info
Over the Glyders in Snowdonia to have
lunch by Castell y Gwynt, watching the
train going up Snowdon in the distance.
Barry Anthony Starr
visitsnowdonia.info
Mid Wales
The old Precipice Walk near Dolgellau,
with fantastic views over the Barmouth
estuary. Heaven on earth!
Anne Redmond
visitsnowdonia.info
It has got to be the Roman road in
Trecastle, which leads into seemingly
endless hills and a great view of the
Brecon Beacons.
Nathaniel Christopher Watts
breconbeacons.org
midwalesmyway.com
The precipitous ridge of the Black
Mountain above Llyn y Fan Fach.
Ian Stanley
breconbeacons.org
The scramble up to Twm Siôn Cati’s cave
in the RSPB Gwenffrwd-Dinas reserve.
Niamh Hedges
rspb.org.uk/wales/
Aberporth to Tresaith, and lunch in
The Ship.
Amanda Owen
Patricia Case From Dinas Dinlle to Fort
Belan, near Caernarfon. There are lots
of lovely little flowers in the sand dunes.
visitsnowdonia.info
Along the cliffs from Aberystwyth
to Clarach.
Ruth Harrison
South West Wales
Bishopston to Pwll Du, via Brandy Cove,
on Gower. You’ll need boots, water, and
a dog.
Matt Jones
visitswanseabay.com
Rachel Forester The Four Falls trail in
the Brecon Beacons takes in some of
the most beautiful waterfalls I’ve ever
seen. breconbeacons.org /
midwalesmyway.com
Rhossili. It’s fantastic there along the tops
of cliffs, watching the hang gliders.
Deana Whitehouse
visitswanseabay.com
Whitesands Bay to St David’s Head. Lots
of places to stop off and enjoy the view,
take a swim and catch your breath. The
end point is a great place to watch the
world turn.
David J Houlston
The coast path near Llanelli. The estuary
has lots of wading birds.
Anne White
Stephen Cooke The Sugar Loaf
Mountain, the most iconic of the
seven hills around Abergavenny.
South Wales
The walk from Whitestone to
Whitebrook passes through one of the
loveliest parts of the Wye Valley – and
there’s a fab restaurant to end up in.
Chris Wakefield
Laura Jones The coast path from
The Cardiff Bay barrage across to Penarth
(and optional water taxi back).
Joyce Fletcher
visitcardiff.com
Llantwit Major, past the lighthouses to
Monknash, with a shandy at the Plough
& Harrow. glamorganheritagecoast.com /
visitthevale.com
visitwales.com
61
Meet our
holiday areas
1
2
3
4
Wales is divided into 13 distinct areas, each with its own
individual character. Allow us to introduce you.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
5
The Isle of Anglesey
Llandudno & Colwyn Bay
6
North East Wales
Snowdonia Mountains & Coast/Eryri Mynyddoedd a Môr
Mid Wales My Way
Ceredigion – Cardigan Bay & the Cambrian Mountains
7
Pembrokeshire – Britain’s only Coastal National Park
Carmarthenshire – Carmarthen Bay
8
9
10
13
10 Swansea Bay – Swansea, Mumbles & Gower
10 The Valleys – Heart & Soul of Wales
11
11 Cardiff – Capital of Wales
12
12 The Glamorgan Heritage Coast & Countryside
13 Wye Valley & Vale of Usk
1 The Isle of Anglesey
Anglesey offers unparalleled beauty, amazing
adventures, serious solitude and a warm
welcome. Easily accessible, this unique
island, with its coastline, varied beaches and
historic towns make it a superb base for all
the family. Those who have visited need not
be told. They just return…
+44 (0)1248 713177
[email protected]
visitanglesey.co.uk
facebook.com/visitanglesey
2 Llandudno & Colwyn Bay
Vibrant Llandudno, the Victorian seaside
gem with a history that goes back to the
Bronze Age. World Heritage Conwy with its
rich maritime past. Waterfront adventure in
Colwyn Bay at The National Zoo of Wales.
Year-round breaks, filled with family fun,
good food, great walking, world-class theatre
and a full calendar of exciting events. All
within easy reach of Snowdonia.
+44 (0)1492 577577
[email protected]
visitllandudno.org.uk
facebook.com/visitllandudno
twitter.com/visitllandudno
62 visitwales.com
3 North East Wales
Less than 20 minutes from Chester, we’re just
a short journey from the North West and the
West Midlands. From the bustling shops and
cultural events of Wrexham to the culinary
delights of the Mold Food and Drink Festival
to the world-famous Llangollen International
Eisteddfod. The area includes Rhyl, one of the
best recognised British seaside resorts and
the Clwydian Range & Dee Valley, Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty. We even have an
11-mile (17km) long World Heritage Site –
the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal and you
can walk the ancient Offa’s Dyke path running
through Chirk out to the coast at Prestatyn.
+44 (0)1978 292015
[email protected]
+44 (0)1745 355068
[email protected]
4 Snowdonia Mountains & Coast
The outdoor adventure playground of North
Wales that includes the Snowdonia National
Park, Llŷn Peninsula and Cambrian Coastline.
A wide choice of quality accommodation,
attractions and activities – castles, narrowgauge railways, golf, cycling, walking, awardwinning beaches, country parks, Wales Coast
Path, World Heritage Site, Areas of Outstanding
Natural Beauty and Heritage Coast.
+44 (0)1341 281485
[email protected]
visitsnowdonia.info
facebook.com/visitingsnowdonia
twitter.com/visit_snowdonia
visitsnowdonia.wordpress.com
5 Mid Wales My Way
Featuring Brecon Beacons National Park, Dyfi
Biosphere, Cambrian Mountains, Lake Vyrnwy &
the Berwyns and Offa’s Country. Magnificent
walks – two national trails, waterfalls and many
other breathtaking walks besides. Muddy
Wheels – cycling on- and off-road. A great track
record – four years with the Tour of Britain,
home to Dyfi Enduro and Beacons Beast. Family
traffic-fee routes to extreme mountain biking
await. Year-round events – from Hay Literary to
Machynlleth Comedy, from Green Man to the
Royal Welsh and Winter Shows, celebrating our
agricultural heritage. Stay in magnificent
mansions to wacky wigwams. All topped off
with mouth-watering cuisine, local whiskies and
marvellous wines. That’s Mid Wales My Way!
+44 (0)1874 622485
[email protected]
midwalesmyway.com
C
eredigion – Cardigan Bay & the
Cambrian Mountains
Discover the villages and harbours that
inspired Dylan Thomas and the expansive
landscapes, myths and legends depicted in
the gripping TV thriller Hinterland / Y Gwyll.
Delve into Wales’s history at Cardigan
Castle. Walk gentle or challenging sections
of Ceredigion’s coast path from promenade
strolls at Aberystwyth to hill fort climbs at
Llangrannog. Spot bottlenose dolphins and
enjoy family fun at award-winning beaches.
6
+44 (0)1970 612125
[email protected]
facebook.com/discoverceredigion
twitter: @visitceredigion
Pembrokeshire – Britain’s only
Coastal National Park
Rated by National Geographic magazine
experts as the second best coastline in the
world. With 186 miles (299km) of
magnificent and varied coastline and more
than 50 beaches, there’s plenty of space for
everyone. Choose between lively Tenby and
Saundersfoot or peaceful St David’s and
Newport. Perfect for outdoor activities or
just relaxing.
7
To find out more about Pembrokeshire
wansea Bay – Swansea,
S
Mumbles & Gower
Discover Dylan Thomas in Wales’s Waterfront
City, birthplace of our poetic hero and
playwright. Spend some time in the UK’s first
Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the
Gower Peninsula. Unwind on award-winning
beaches and explore unspoilt countryside.
Bring your board, bike and boots and enjoy
watersports, cycling and walking.
9
+44 (0)1792 468321
[email protected]
visitswanseabay.com
he Valleys – Heart & Soul
T
of Wales
World-class mountain biking and other
activities on, over and under landscapes that
are never short on drama. Proud
communities bursting to tell you their stories
about Wales’s largest castle, a World Heritage
Site, craft beers and ciders and an intriguing
cast of heroes from the mythological past to
the contemporary music scene. You haven’t
visited Wales until you’ve been to the Valleys
– the Heart and Soul of Wales.
10
+44 (0)29 2088 0011
[email protected]
thevalleys.co.uk
8 Carmarthenshire – Carmarthen Bay
Carmarthenshire stretches from
Carmarthen Bay in the south to western
Beacons and the Cambrian Mountains in
the north, wondrous gardens, awe-inspiring
castles and Wales’s longest beach, market
towns brimming with local produce and
chic shopping.
11 Cardiff, Capital of Wales
The capital of Wales has unique attractions,
top-class entertainment, a wide range of
accommodation to suit all needs and quality
shopping with a difference. Cardiff Castle,
the Millennium Stadium, National Museum
Cardiff, the Wales Millennium Centre and
famous Doctor Who Experience combined
with Cardiff Bay offer indoor and outdoor
entertainment for everyone all year round.
+44 (0)1267 231557
[email protected]
+44 (0)29 2087 3573
[email protected]
visitcardiff.com
The Glamorgan Heritage Coast
& Countryside
The dramatic Heritage Coast and popular
resorts of Barry Island and Porthcawl are
fringed by lovely Vale and Bridgend
countryside and green hills. Discover the
special character of an area steeped in
history – and it’s close to Cardiff, Wales’
cosmopolitan capital.
12
+44 (0)1446 704867 / +44 (0)1656 815338
[email protected]
[email protected]
visitthevale.com
bridgendbites.com
13 Wye Valley and Vale of Usk
Fantastic scenery and high-quality food and
drink from the Brecon Beacons National
Park to the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty. Explore castles, Roman
towns and beautiful gardens; then take in
award-winning vineyards, bustling market
towns and great local pubs. With the
renowned Newport and Abergavenny Food
Festivals, celebrated restaurants and artisan
producers, discover why we’re the Food
Capital of Wales.
+44 (0)1291 623772
[email protected]
Find out more by visiting
visitwales.com/brochures
Download as many
brochures as you like, select
up to three for free postal
delivery or call
+44 (0)333 006 3001.
The Black Mountains, Brecon Beacons
visitwales.com
63
Getting
to Wales
GLASGOW
Wales is easy to get
to. It’s a big plus point.
We’re just a few hours
by road and rail from
most of the UK’s
main centres. And
if you’re visiting us
from Ireland, you have
the choice of direct ferries to both
North and South Wales or direct
flights to Cardiff Airport.
EDINBURGH
LIVERPOOL
Fishguard
Pembroke
By road
Mileage and journey times by car
64 Birmingham – Aberystwyth
123 miles, 2hrs 44mins
Newcastle-upon-Tyne – Llandudno
Canterbury – Cardiff
Nottingham – Swansea
Coventry – Barmouth
Peterborough – Aberystwyth
Exeter – Swansea
Reading – Carmarthen
Leeds – Llandudno
York – Welshpool
London – Cardiff
Edinburgh – Cardiff
London – Tenby
Glasgow – Aberystwyth
Manchester – Caernarfon
theaa.com
National Express provides a nationwide
network of express coach services linking
major towns and cities in Wales as well as
the UK’s principal destinations.
nationalexpress.com
Megabus provides low cost intercity
travel in the UK, with buses running from
a number of major UK cities to Newport,
Cwmbran, Cardiff, Swansea, Carmarthen
and Pembroke Dock. Prices from £1 plus
50p booking fee (one way).
uk.megabus.com
visitwales.com
By sea
Irish Ferries
Dublin Port to Holyhead
Journey time: 1hr 49mins (Fast ferry)
Journey time: 3hrs 15mins (Cruise ferry)
Rosslare to Pembroke
Journey time: 4hrs
irishferries.com
Stena Line
Dublin Port to Holyhead
Journey time: 2hrs 20mins (Fastcraft)
Journey time: 3hrs 15mins (Superferry)
Dun Laoghaire to Holyhead
Journey time: 2hrs 20mins (Fastcraft)
Rosslare to Fishguard
Journey time: 3hrs 30mins (Superferry)
stenaline.ie
By rail
In the UK, fast and frequent rail services
run between London Paddington and
Cardiff, taking only two hours. There is a
half-hourly departure to Cardiff Central,
with an hourly continuation to Swansea
and onward connections to West Wales.
Direct trains to North Wales depart
from London Euston. There’s also a rail
service between London Marylebone,
Shrewsbury and Wrexham. Hourly
services run from Manchester to the
North Wales coast.
For general rail enquiries:
nationalrail.co.uk/thetrainline.com
By air
Cardiff Airport
cardiff-airport.com
A number of airlines offer direct flights
to Cardiff from other parts of the UK and
Ireland – check out their websites for
details:
Aer Lingus
Serving: Dublin
aerlingus.com
KLM
Serving: Dublin
klm.com
Citywing
Serving: Anglesey
citywing.com
CityJet
Serving: Belfast,
Edinburgh and
Jersey
cityjet.com
Eastern Airways
Serving: Newcastle
and Aberdeen
easternairways.com
The airport is situated in Rhoose, 12 miles
(20 km) south-west of Cardiff. Buses, trains
and taxis link the airport to the city centre.
The Cardiff Airport Express bus service
offers a direct link to the city centre. Taxis
cost approximately £26; a booking office
is located outside the arrivals hall. A rail
link connects the airport station to Cardiff
Central and Bridgend. Trains run every
hour from Monday to Saturday and every
two hours on Sundays. A complimentary
shuttle bus service is available between
the terminal building and the station for
passengers with a valid train ticket. Car hire
is also available.
Getting around Wales
By road
Wales’s most scenic drives count
amongst the best in Britain. Some
favourite routes with fantastic views
include the A466 along the Wye
Valley, the B4574 from Rhayader to
the Vale of Rheidol, the A4069 across
the Black Mountain range, the A4086,
A498 and A4085 around Snowdon
and Marine Drive around Great Orme,
Llandudno.
When you’re out and about in our
National Parks, use the convenient park
and ride bus services designed to cut
down on traffic:
Brecon Beacons National Park –
travelbreconbeacons.info/beacons-bus
Pembrokeshire Coast National Park –
pembrokeshire.gov.uk
Snowdonia National Park –
gwynedd.gov.uk
By rail
Rail services run through the regions of
Wales – usually on highly scenic routes
such as the Cambrian Coast, Conwy
Valley and Heart of Wales lines.
nationalrail.co.uk
arrivatrainswales.co.uk
scenicwales.co.uk
heart-of-wales.co.uk
For pure pleasure why not take a ride
on some of our 14 narrow gauge and
steam railways? Many are members
of the Great Little Trains of Wales
greatlittletrainsofwales.co.uk
Discounted rail and bus travel
The Explore Wales Pass offers unlimited
travel on all mainline rail services in
Wales plus most scheduled bus services.
Holders will also benefit from free
or discounted travel on some of the
narrow gauge Great Little Trains of
Wales and discounted entry to many of
Wales’s tourist attractions. The Explore
Wales Pass (£94) allows four days’ train
and eight days’ bus travel. The Explore
South Wales Pass and the Explore North
and Mid Wales Pass (£64 each) allow
four days’ train and eight days’ bus travel
within each regional area. There are also
a number of Rover and Ranger tickets
available, which all offer unlimited rail
travel for one day on specific areas of
the Arriva Trains Wales network. They
can be purchased from the station
booking office or on board the train.
arrivatrainswales.co.uk/
explorewalespass
Additional information
For up-to-date and reliable public
transport information –
traveline-cymru.info
For a handy route planner –
theaa.com or rac.co.uk
Information on UK road regulations –
gov.uk/browse/driving /highway-code
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch
St Mary’s Church in the hollow of the white hazel near a rapid
whirlpool and the Church of St Tysilio of the red cave
visitwales.com
65
Further information
Free brochures
Find out more about Wales by choosing some of the FREE guides available.
Check them out, and order or download them from visitwales.com/brochures
Adventure: visitwales.com/activities
Fishing: visitwales.com/fishing
Golf: golfasitshouldbe.com
Mountain biking: mbwales.com or visitwales.com/mountain-biking
Our other websites
There are a number of really useful Visit Wales websites to get information on the
different types of activities you can try on your holiday in Wales. Whether you want to
hurtle down a mountain with your rear brakes burned out, throw yourself off rugged
wave-lashed cliffs, fish for grayling on the River Wye, or play one of our championship
golf courses – we have a website for you. So what are you waiting for?
For up-to-date information on short breaks and proper holidays in Wales, go to the
official website: visitwales.com
66 visitwales.com
Walking: visitwales.com/walking
Whilst every effort has been made to ensure
accuracy in this publication, Visit Wales can
accept no liability for any errors, inaccuracies or
omissions or for any matter in anyway arising out
of the publication of the information. All websites
listed are checked at the time of going to press.
However, Visit Wales cannot be held accountable
for any change in the content of these websites.
visitwales.com
FAQs
How do I know I’m booking good quality
accommodation?
When choosing your holiday
accommodation, look for the Cymru/ Wales
quality mark of Wales’s official, nationwide
quality assessment scheme. Visit Wales and
the AA are the only checking agents in Wales,
checking out over 5,000 properties. Both
assess holiday accommodation to the same
criteria and award one to five stars, based
on the facilities and overall quality of the
experience. Also look out for that extraspecial property that has been awarded Visit
Wales’s Gold Award, given for exceptional
standards of hospitality, comfort and food in
serviced accommodation.
For more information on
accommodation in Wales, the Cymru/
Wales Quality Assessment scheme, general
grading information and star ratings go to:
visitwales.com/holidayaccommodation
Where can I find holiday information for
people with special needs?
Tourism for All is a free specialist
information service promoting accessible
tourism. It offers free guidance on travel
planning, transport, accommodation and
booking. tourismforall.org.uk
I’d like to learn some Welsh before my visit
– where do I start?
Take a look at the following websites to
pick up some basics:
bbc.co.uk/learnwelsh / s4c.co.uk/dysgwyr/
If you’d like to learn Welsh in Wales, the
Nant Gwrtheyrn Welsh Language & Heritage
Centre specialises in residential courses for
adults learning Welsh.
nantgwrtheyrn.org
Where can I get local tourist information?
One of the simplest and quickest ways of
getting local information is by calling in to
one of our Tourist Information Centres.
The staff are highly trained, have an
excellent knowledge of the area and will be
delighted to help you with booking your
accommodation, finding places to eat,
things to do, routes to take, national and
local events and obtaining maps, guides
and books. Normally, offices are open
between 10.00 and 17.00. For a list of
Tourist Information Centres see:
visitwales.com/contact/touristinformationcentres
Travel agents and tour
operators in the UK
and Ireland
To make it really easy to book your holiday
or short break in Wales you could use a tour
operator. There are a number of companies
who offer Wales-based holidays. They often
have specialist knowledge of particular
products and will be happy to help you find
the right holiday to suit your needs. There are
also Wales-based operators who can plan your
Wales itinerary with specialist and bespoke
tours to meet your exact requirements.
For companies go to:
visitwales.com/touroperators
Selling Wales to your clients
If you work in the leisure travel trade
or business tourism sectors, we have a
dedicated website to help you sell Wales
to your clients and enhance existing tours
to Wales or help introduce Wales into UK
programmes for the first time.
There’s everything from great places to
visit, how to get here, inspiring itinerary
ideas, operator and venue searches and
the latest product news where you can
sign up to receive regular product updates.
traveltrade.visitwales.com
A sense of place
Place names tell a story in Wales. You’ll
see the same words appear time and
again on our road signs, and they’ll
always tell you something of the local
history or landscape. Two in particular
appear very often: Llan indicates a
church or parish, usually followed by
the name of the saint to whom it’s
dedicated, as in Llandudno: the church
of St Tudno. Aber means the mouth or
confluence of a river, as in Aberaeron:
the mouth of the river Aeron.
Here’s a list of common names to
look out for on your travels:
Aber................... mouth/confluence of river
Afon.................. river
Betws................ chapel
Blaen................. source of a stream
Bryn................... hill
Bwlch................ a mountain pass
Caer................... fort, fortified camp
Capel................. chapel
Cas, castell...... castle
Coed................. forest
Cwm.................. valley
Din..................... hill fort
Dinas................. city
Dyffryn............. valley
Eglwys............... church
Ffordd.............. road
Ffynnon........... spring
Glyn................... deep valley
Gwaun.............. moorland
Hafod................ summer
Hendre............. winter farmstead
Llan.................... church, sacred enclosure
Llyn.................... lake
Môr.................... sea
Mynydd........... mountain
Nant.................. brook
Newydd........... new
Plas..................... hall, mansion
Pont................... bridge
Rhaeadr........... waterfall
Traeth............... beach
Tŷ....................... house
Ynys................... island
Mother tongue
When the Romans arrived in Britain,
every person in what is now England and
Wales spoke the same language: Welsh
(or at least, British, the Celtic language
from which modern Welsh is descended). Successive invasions from mainland
Europe drove the British language to
the western edges of Britain, where it
evolved into Welsh, Cornish and the
now-extinct Cumbric. The language also
hopped across to north-west France,
where the Breton language is still partly
intelligible to Welsh speakers. Nowadays
Welsh is spoken by around a fifth of the
population, especially in the north and
west of Wales, where it is many people’s
everyday working language. You’ll also
hear quite a bit of Welsh in major
towns and cities like Cardiff, where the
government and all major public bodies
are fully bilingual. So if you want to
know what our ancient British ancestors sounded like, just find your nearest
Welsh speaker and say shwmae!
visitwales.com
67
II
I
I
I
I I
I
I
I
II
I
I
I
I
I II
I II I
I I
I
II
II I
IIII
I
I
I
Have you
packed
for Wales?
W
Contents
e don’t just mean flip-flops,
walking boots and spare
underwear (although they’d all
II I
IIII
I
be handy). We mean a sense of
adventure, an open mind, and an
appetite for discovery.
I I
I
I II
I II I
I
II
It has certainly been a year of
54
wonders for us. Good grief, we
live here, and yet we’re constantly
amazed by new experiences. For
18
instance, we learnt tons about our
I
I
I
landscape (and ourselves) on a Bear
I
I
Grylls survival weekend, deep in
Waterfall Country. We had a blast at
festivals like Hay, Abergavenny Food
I
and Green Man, which seem to get
I
I
18 Wild at heart
head-over-heels with the place. In the
same spirit, we asked a couple of local
boys, the naturalist Iolo Williams and
broadcaster Huw Stephens, to share
their own favourite spots.
6 Light fantastic
We’ve also got a very special guest
Front cover image: Llanddwyn Island, Anglesey – Kiran Ridley
contributor: HRH Prince Charles, who
shares a lifetime’s love of the Welsh
landscape acquired over his 55 years
We couldn’t fit everything in, of
much we enjoyed underground
go online to visitwales.com.
We’re packed. Are you?
To the lighthouse! A coastal tour of
our leading lights.
You can take the boy out of Cardiff,
but there’s still no place like home for
BBC Radio 1’s Huw Stephens.
26 Cross country
HRH The Prince of Wales shares his
favourite places in Wales and opens
up his own rural hideaway.
The naturalist Iolo Williams takes
us on a guided tour of his favourite
wildlife spots.
12 Proof of the pudding
28 What’s on in 2015
riding the world’s fastest zip wires, or
a myriad other activities and events,
24 Bright lights
trampolining in a vast slate cavern, or
dolphin-spotting in Cardigan Bay, and
Food writer Xanthe Clay has travelled
the world in search of great flavours
– and she found them by the plateful
in West Wales.
16 Feast your eyes
The Abergavenny Food Festival is the
biggest day in a year-round calendar
of foodie events and farmers’ markets.
I II I I
Wild swimming in hidden coves,
secret waterfalls and crystal
mountain lakes.
8 The Prince’s passions
as Prince of Wales.
course. If you want to hear how
A wild, wet weekend at the Bear
Grylls Survival Academy is a brilliant
bonding experience for a dad and
his daughter.
I
I
2 A Bear in the Beacons
Keep your diary clear. There’s a big,
busy year ahead.
40 Everyone’s a winner
We don’t like to brag, but we do
seem to have won quite a lot of
awards recently.
II
tour of West Wales, and to see her fall
II
writer Xanthe Clay on a gastronomic
II
love, so we were delighted to take food
II
I
I
I
I
8
I
I I
The greatest joy of our job is
introducing visitors to things that we
I I I II
better every year.
I
I
WalesView 2015
WalesView 2015
W
e took our cover photo on a glorious
late-summer day at Llanddwyn
Island, on the southern shores of
Anglesey. It’s a magical spot, which we chose for all
sorts of reasons: the beach, the mountain backdrop,
the old lighthouse, the quality of the light. Nearby,
there are the ruins of an ancient chapel dedicated
to the Welsh patron saint of lovers, St Dwynwen.
Gorgeous as it is, Llanddwyn wasn’t the only
contender. It’s always a big debate at Visit Wales:
where to shoot our cover picture. We’ve all got our
own favourite places, depending on which part of
Wales we’re from, where we went on holiday as
kids, and where we go now.
But this picture does capture beautifully what it
feels like at the end of a perfect day, in your own
perfect place. This magazine is full of days like this,
and places in which to spend them.
visitwales.com
Royal Welsh: HRH Prince Charles shares his favourite places in Wales
Bear in the Beacons: a wild weekend at the Bear Grylls Survival Academy
Food of love: a gastronomic tour of West Wales
What’s on 2015: it’s a big, busy year ahead
Plus travel and holiday information –– visitwales.com

Wales View - Visit Wales

Transcription

Similar documents

HEART ATTACK - KNOW THE SYMPTOMS Poster

pdf - Ceidiog PR Consultants North Wales Public Relations

Newsletter - Gwynedd Business Network

Conference Dinner - Eurographics 2011

GUA_30-03-11_A_All_018 (Page 18)

“ EVERY TIME I GET CLOSE TO SOMEONE THEY PUSH ME AWAY.”

Assembly Bwletin Cynulliad - Institute of Welsh Affairs

Assembly Bwletin Cynulliad - Institute of Welsh Affairs