- Inkaterra

Mysterious
Machu Picchu
Journey into the lost city of the Incas
Written and photographed by
Kathy M. Newbern and J.S. Fletcher
Sun Gate is an entranceway to Machu
T hePicchu,
not only for travelers of Peru’s Inca
After a four-day hike, dedicated trekkers receive an
astounding view of the remains of the
Lost City of the Incas.
Trail, but also for the sun. “Inti Punku,” or “sun’s door,”
was built in this mountain pass so on the solstices,
sun rays would pass precisely to the Temple of the
Sun on the sacred site below.
Today, the small stone ruins are an entry point
near the end of the 31-mile Inca Trail – a four-day hike
— that affords dedicated trekkers a sudden, astounding view of the remains of the Lost City of the Incas.
Instead, we make the hour climb up from the
ruins to the Sun Gate and find a lean, lanky backpacker sitting on a stone slab. Mike Blumenthal, 26,
of Cranston, Rhode Island, is grinning broadly.
We understand why: This place, high in the
Andes, enchants.
Blumenthal shares his thoughts: “I think everyone
should visit Machu Picchu. I first came five years ago
and had to come back. There’s something magical
about it. The sight of it alone is breathtaking, and you
end up sitting, staring at it for a long time trying to get
the image ingrained in your head.”
That image seems surreal: 15th-century ruins of
stone-fronted terraces, stone temples, stone stairs,
walkways and streets that have to be seen because
they defy imagination.
From 1200 to 1533, the Incan Empire, centered
in Peru, ruled land in South America that stretched
from what is current-day Ecuador down the Andes
Mountains to the southern tip of Chile. At its zenith,
the estimated population was 12 million.
They worshiped the sun, developed a calendar and traded with other cultures. They built roads,
aqueducts and massive stone structures that rivaled
those produced by the finest stonemasons anywhere.
And yet the empire fell to Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro within two years of his arrival.
Incan cities were either ransacked or demolished
and built over, or abandoned and grown over by jungle vegetation. The Inca people shared a similar fate,
either killed or absorbed by their victors.
Traces, at least, live on in the mysterious myth,
unprecedented wonder and overpowering awe that
Machu Picchu evokes. This mountaintop city survived
because of its secluded, sheltered location.
Remarkably, it wasn’t “found” until July 1911
by Yale University archaeologist Hiram Bingham. Of
course, local residents knew about it and led him to
“machu picchu,” meaning “ancient summit” or “old
mountain.”
Bingham wrote, “The sanctuary was lost for
centuries because this ridge is located in the most
inaccessible corner of a hard-to-reach section of the
central Andes ... yet, here, in a remote part of the
canyon, on this narrow ridge flanked by tremendous
precipices, a highly civilized people, artistic, inventive,
well organized, and capable of sustained endeavor,
at some time in the distant past built themselves a
sanctuary for the worship of the sun.”
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Alpacas are valued for their fine wool,
as well as being a prized food.
Nearly intact in Bingham’s day was a village that seemed to sprout from the mountains. An estimated 1,000 people
inhabited 200-some structures, many deemed religious.
Machu Picchu’s purpose remains unknown. Speculation ranges from a temple for priests to a defensive fortress that
could not be seen from below to a stopping point on the Inca Trail where goods were carried from the fertile lowlands to the
central government in Cusco.
Visitors usually arrive here by train from Cusco to the little town of Aguas Calientes, named for the local thermal springs.
But now it’s officially called Machu Picchu Pueblo, predicated on the rise in tourism after the site was voted one of the New
Seven Wonders of the World. One guide laughingly calls it “pizza town” because of the 60+ pizza restaurants.
We opt to arrive via one of the world’s great train trips: the Cusco-to-Machu Picchu Hiram Bingham train that accommodates 84 passengers in “a world of polished wood, gleaming cutlery and glittering glass.”
This journey starts with a champagne welcome and native dance performance at the rail station. Once onboard,
reserved seats in the two elegant dining cars make for cozy conversation with fellow travelers who have also decided to
“do” Machu Picchu in style. The train descends through a panorama of landscapes, including patchwork farms, some still using terrace systems.
Soon, the plains narrow as we enter a deep gorge carved by the Pomatales River until it meets the Urubamba River. There
are glimpses of an ancient, abandoned highway that led to the rubber plantations of the Amazon.
Meanwhile, the kitchen car bustles as the wine brunch is prepared. We’ll soon sample alpaca loin with a local Chardonnay.
In the open-ended observation car, passengers eagerly snap photos and record video of the scenic Sacred Valley of
the Incas while being serenaded by a guitarist and singer.
There’s a brief stop in Ollantaytambo, where vendors swarm the tracks hawking colorful backpacks, dolls and blankets.
A little further, we see a campsite and trekkers at a popular entry to the Inca Trail.
In the bar car, we make a surprising discovery as we chat with Romulo Lizarraga Valencia, our guide for the day. He is
coauthor of the book Journey to Machu Picchu: Spiritual Wisdom from the Andes. His knowledge of the region is extraordinary and intricate, having been born here and having hiked the Inca Trail more than 300 times.
Even more startling is his revelation that it was one of his relatives who first “uncovered” Machu Picchu from the elements. Agustin Lizarraga was our guide’s great uncle, brother to his grandfather, and the two farmed together.
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The book’s chapter, The True Discoverers of Machu Picchu
Ruins, notes: “One day (in 1900) after clearing a great stretch of
plant growth, he climbed the cleared slopes to explore an area he’d
never entered. There, Agustin found an ancient stairway rising from
the banks of the Urubamba River, west of the mountain and leading to a place that is known today as the Sacred Plaza of Machu
Picchu. The fire had burned the surrounding terraces and almost
reached the ruins. Agustin was very excited when he saw level areas
filled with rich soil, apparently waiting to be cultivated. Then he realized his discovery was much greater: The terraces formed the outer
edge of a vast, mysterious city hidden in the jungle.”
We feel honored knowing we’ll see the ruins with the aid of truly
local eyes.
From the rail station, a private bus carries our group slowly up
the narrow, switchback-laden dirt road to the site. There are audible
“ahhhs” when the ruins, also known as the historical reserve, first
come into view. Seconds later, we arrive outside the only hotel at
the ruins, Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge. (But we’ll be staying two
nights back in town at the unique Inkaterra Machu Picchu). Site admission ($40) is included in the train passage as is the
bus, guided tour, afternoon tea at the Lodge, plus cocktails and a
four-course, wine dinner on the return. There’s no better way to get
here and be more pampered in the process.
Our long-anticipated visit to Machu Picchu does not disappoint.
We savor our first views: stone ruins and terraces dating back six
centuries, llamas lazily munching grass, cloud-topped mountain
surrounds, and the tiny dot of the town and toylike blue train far
below beside the winding Urubamba River.
Breathtaking, yes, but we remember to breathe deeply since
here at 7,874 feet, our heads may be swimming with beauty, but our
lungs are clamoring for more oxygen.
We heed the printed advice: Go at your own pace, drink lots of
water and do try the local coca tea to combat symptoms.
Our guide, Romulo, takes us through the ruins in about three
hours, each new vista as mesmerizing as the last. He points out the
highlights, including the Temple of the Sun, where during the winter solstice (in the southern hemisphere), a shaft of sunlight shines
through the sole trapezoid-shaped window to light up the temple.
There’s the Guardhouse above the terraces, the Main Square
and Main Gate, and the dry moat dividing the agricultural and urban
sectors. The urban areas include the Sacred District, the Popular
District and the District of the Priests and the Nobility.
He showed us the site’s observatory, plus the huge sundial Intihuatana Stone or “hitching post of the sun,” which was a precise
indicator of the two equinoxes.
There’s also the Ceremonial Rock, Palace of the Princess (its
name a mystery), Temple of Three Windows, Group of the Three
Doorways, plus the Temple of the Condor.
Romulo weaves stories of wealth, science, religion and culture
amid the dry-stone craftsmanship everywhere, making us all question why such a site was abandoned.
This page: Inkaterra La Casona is a stylish boutique hotel, with
impeccable services, in a striking 16th century mansion — perhaps
the first Spanish construction in Cusco. Opposite page: Inkaterra
Machu Picchu ombines a spectacular location with chic accommodations,
amazing tours, a tranquil spa and traditional Peruvian haute cuisine.
Photos courtesy of Inkaterra.
Nearly 3,000 people a day visit Machu Picchu on the peak days
of the “dry season,” May to September, and amazingly, 70 percent
make it only a day trip. That’s a shame because that’s not enough
time to experience the magical effect of South America’s most
famous archaeological site.
A one-day guided tour generally will only cover the main grounds.
Stay longer to climb to the Sun Gate, or even climb Machu Picchu
mountain and Huayna (pronounced Wayna) Picchu. The adventurous and fit might tackle all three; many manage two.
Mike Blumenthal is one of them, climbing Huayna in the morning
and the Sun Gate, where we met him, in the afternoon.
For those who want to climb Huayna, he notes it’s limited to only
400 people per day — 200 from 7–8 a.m. and 200 from 10–11 a.m.
Everyone must stand in line, starting as early as 4:45 a.m., to get a
ticket at the gate, and the tickets are gone shortly after 7.
Because of frequent early-morning fog, the first group risks poor
visibility, so Blumenthal recommends trying for the second group
plus buying your bus and entrance tickets the day before, and getting in line early for the bus from town.
He said, “The climb itself is steep and takes 45 minutes to an
hour on average. There are stone stairs the whole way up, but the
steepness and elevation make it very difficult. The reward is the
amazing view from the top. You are able to see the shape of the
ancient city and gaze in wonderment as to how it was all built this
high in the Andes.
“Still the most fun thing about (Machu Picchu) is being able to
go off on your own and explore the interior. I ran around looking in
each building like a little kid because I wanted to see all of it, every
last room. There’s simply nothing like it anywhere in the world.”
Our Sun Gate hike was work every step (though we’d wisely prebooked massages at Inkaterra for the evening).
No one knows what happened to the Incas of Machu Picchu,
but one thing is certain: Their bodies may have gone, but their spirit
still walks the ruins and the mountains they once ruled.
If You’re Going
Abercrombie & Kent offers customized Machu Picchu itineraries with
expert guides. Some trips add on the Galapagos (see separate story in this
issue). Visit www.abercrombiekent.com or call 800.554.7016.
Plan to spend a day or two in Cusco to get acclimated to the altitude. (The city
is at 11,150 feet; Machu Picchu is at nearly 8,000.) The bustling city plaza has a restored
cathedral built over one of the most important Inca temples. Four blocks away is San Blas, the
colorful arts shopping district with zigzag streets.
For stylish, serene accommodations, try Inkaterra La Casona, a boutique hotel in a former manor house with 11 suites
(ask for one of the two plaza suites). Impeccable service starts with your personal concierge, who will arrange tours, dining, trains, taxis and more. It continues a few minutes later with the arrival of coca tea (to increase oxygen absorption and
combat altitude sickness). For details, visit www.inkaterra.com/en/cusco or call 800.442.5042.
PeruRail trains run daily from Cusco to Machu Picchu. Contact them at www.perurail.com. The luxury Hiram Bingham
train departs at 9 a.m. daily from Poroy, a 20-minute taxi ride from Cusco. Visit www.orient-express.com and click on luxury
trains or call 800.524.2420 for more information.
Local buses ($12 round-trip) make the 20-minute trip from the town of Machu Picchu to the Machu Picchu historical
reserve every 30 to 40 minutes from 5:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Return buses run from 10:30 a.m. to 5:45 p.m.
To enter the site, you’ll need the equivalent of $40 in local currency, cash only. You can get a Machu Picchu stamp in
your passport just inside the entry gate, so be sure to take it along (safely tucked away).
Book accommodations well in advance — there are two luxury properties:
• The Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge is the only hotel adjacent to the site. Contact www.sanctuarylodge.net or
800.237.1236.
• The award-winning, eco-conscious Inkaterra Machu Picchu is tucked amid a 12-acre cloud forest, but it doesn’t skimp on
pampering. There are 85 casitas (rooms) amid grounds boasting the world’s largest private collection of indigenous orchids
(372 species and free tours), plus a gourmet restaurant with free happy-hour pisco sours, a swimming pool and UNU spa
with a private, outdoor hot tub for two tucked in the foliage. A spa highlight is the Andean Sauna treatment, a candlelit,
sweat-lodge experience in an “igloo” of indigenous bamboo and fresh eucalyptus leaves that smell heavenly. For details,
visit inkaterra.com/en/machu-picchu or call 800.442.5042.
Hikers who take the Inca Trail reach Machu Picchu
through the Sun Gate, which gives the first glimpse of
the ruins far below.