Climbing guide to Badami
Transcription
Climbing guide to Badami
Climbing guide to Badami Bangalore Ramanagaram & Savendurga Copyright by Gerhard Schaar www.gerhardschaar.com Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Introduction I spent three months in India in the winter 2005/2006, where I got to know this beautiful country and its fascinating people and culture. It was not always easy for me, especially at the beginning. But after I figured out that it was me who had to change, that I have to start accepting things as they are, India got more and more interessting. The climbing is yet not that much developed, although the Indian climbers are very motivated, skilled and very friendly. So the potential is huge, and hopefully my little climbing guide helps to attract more climbers and finally to develop the place a bit more. There are some climbers who think there should no guides be published, to keep the areas as they are. I can not share this point of view, because I think that prpoer information is very much appreciated by people who come to a place the first time. Further I think that climbing is more fun when there are more people around, and if experiences can be shared and new things be done together. I also believe that if there are issues that one should be concerned of, they should be mentioned, discussed and not kept secret. Climbing in Badami and Bangalore is still a bit of an adventure, great lines, amazing rocks, strange people, monkeys, snakes and also bears can be found here. Enjoy the journey if you decide to embark on it and maybe you send my information about you new routes with a drawing, or you write me if you found uncorrect details in my guide. Thank you in advance! Gerhard Schaar th Aukland / NZL, 28 of May 2006 © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 2 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Badami Badami is a city of about 5000 people, located netween wonderful sandstone rocks and next to the Bothanathaa Lake. It is famous for its four stone cave temples, which are really worth seing. Climbingwise some famous climbers like the German Kurt Albert, the Italien Helmut Gargitter or the French Arnaud Petit have left their traces here. Best time: From November to February Transport: Badami can be reached by railway (Hubli-Sholapur rail route) and by road from Hubli (128 kms), Bijapur (132 kms) or Hospet (250 km). From Hampi go to Hospet, and from there go with the bus that leaves at 13.30 o´clock from the main bus station (80.- Rs.). The ride will take you about 5 hours. You can go back with the bus to Hospet from Badami at 6.00 or 7.00 o´clock. Accomodation: There are some Hotels in town, right next to the bus station. Rooms are available from 150.- RS. On. I stayed in the “Mocambiqua Hotel” and paid 160.- Rs. For a double room. Gear: • • • • 60m rope some slings 60 cm and 120 cm old 10m rope piece to put up top ropes full rack wit two sets of cams (#0 to #4) and2 sets of nuts General safety advise: Never leave your bags alone, it is either the monkeys or strange local people who are after your food and valuables. Women must not walk alone to the rocks at any time of the day. © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 3 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Location: Badami and Bangalore are located in the district of Karnataka. So is Hampi! You see, going there will really pay off! Karnataka Badami Hampi Bangalore © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 4 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Badami Gerhard with local boy and a new rope! © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 5 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Ganesh Area Acces detailed: © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 6 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Ganesh Area routes: 1. Sunshine Wall 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Battle of the worm ? Fire or retire French desaster Babu Killer Scoolpen Eag Number Freda Sunnele Millenium Crack Indian Sun Andrea Sene Cornflakes Hias Cliff 5+ 7c+ 7a+ 6c+ 6b+ 6a 6a 5b+ 6a+ 7a 6c+ 6b 6c+ 6b 6c+ 20m 20 m 25 m 22m 20m 20m 20m 18m 15m 18m 18m 18m 25m 22m 18m no bolts 6 bolts 5 bolts 4 bolts 3 bolts no bolts no bolts no bolts 1 bolt no bolts 1 bolt 1 bolt 4 bolts 2 bolts 3 bolts friends # 0,5 – 4 friends #1 friend #2 Pranesha C. on Millenium Crack 7a © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 7 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga 2. Top Rope Wall 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 unnamed unnamed unnamed unnamed unnamed unnamed unnamed unnamed project 6c 7a 6b+ 6a 5c 6a+ 6b 13m 13m 13m 13m 13m 13m 13m 13m Petra Musenbichler – Top Rope route nr.6 © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 8 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga 1st Tower – 2nd Tower – Japanese Monkey Routes – Paddy Field 1st Tower 2nd Tower Paddy Field Japanese Monkey Routes 1st Tower: 1 2 3 4 6b? 6a? 6b+? ? 2nd Tower 1 7c? Japanese Monkey Routes 1 7b? 2 6c? Badami – new potential everywhere! Paddy Field 1 Ciapati 2 pitches 2 Fio and Sachin 3 Hot Sun 6a 6a 6a 40 m 30m 25m © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com 6 bolts friends 2 bolts friends 3 bolts friends page 9 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga www.beal-planet.com © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 10 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Ganesh area bouldering 1. Boulder: 1. 6b 2. 6a+ 3. 6b+ 4. sit down ??? 4. s.s. 6b 2. Boulder: 1. 6a 2. 6b 3. 6b+ 3. Boulder – a: 1. 6c 2. 7a 3. 5c 4. 5b 3. Boulder – b: 1. 6b 2. Highball 6b+ 4. Boulder: 1. 7b 2. 7b+/c 3. 6b 4. 6a Further there are many lines spread all over the Ganesh area. Feel free to try everything that looks good. But be aware of the danger of Snakes!!! © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 11 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Hermit Wall Access: © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 12 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Hermit Wall: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Puss Max Old Rope Koufi Annan Hungry Climber Por my lost friend Namasté Indian Spirit Por my Claudia Indian Dream Hindu Climber Joudl Sene Cornflakes Hias Cliff 7b+ 6a 6b 7b+ 7b 7a 6b+ 6c+ 7a+ 7a+ 6b+ 6c+ 6b 6c+ 20 m 15m 20 m 20m 32 m 30m 30m 30m 26m 26m 25 m 25m 22m 18m 1 bolt friends # 2-4 2 bolts 5 bolts 4 bolts 1 fix nut friend #1 5 bolts 5 bolts 3 bolts friend #1 4 bolts friends #2 4 bolts friends #2 5 bolts friend #1 4 bolts 4 bolts friends #1 2 bolts friend #2 3 bolts Boothanatha Lake, Temple and Hermit Wall © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 13 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Badami deluxe 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Badami deluxe Jumping Indian Horn Please Tension Traverse Ziet The white line Remember my daughter Kingfisher strong Kingfisher Premium Zepela Sinha The happy lion Strapback The grey chair Dizzy Honey Moon Surga & Sawli The last day in Badami Rope and me Go to Hampi The crazy driver 6c 6b 6b+ 6a 5c 5c 6c 6c 6b 5b 6c 6b+ 6a+ 6b+ 7b 7a 6c 5b 6b 7a © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com 35m 15m 12m 15m 30m 18m 18m 18m 18m 20m 20m 20 m 25m 25m 25m 25m 25 m 12m 14m 20m 3 bolts friends #1-3, rocks 2 bolts no bolts 1bolt, friends # 0-1 no bolts no bolts 1 bolt friends #1-3 1 bolt friends # 0,3 – 1 1 bolt friends # 0,3-1 no bolts no bolts no bolts 1 bolt friends # 0,3 – 1 no bolts 5 bolts A. Petit 5 bolts 4 bolts friends #1 no bolts 1 bolt 1 bolt page 14 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Temple area The locals Narashima M. S. (7b arete Temple area) and Madhu C. (Battle of the worms, Ganesh Area) © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 15 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Areas around Bangalore Location: please see the map on page 5! Climbing Wall: In Bangalore there it is a 15 m high climbing wall located at the SRI KANTEERAVA STADIUM City Taxi (Metered taxi) - Each taxi has a meter and you pay according to the fare on the meter. Approximately $0.20 per km. Taxi – You can hire various types of cars as taxis. Mostly taxis charge for a minimum of 250kms per day. Depending on the type of car, taxis may charge $0.10 per km to $0.50 per km. There are also options to hire these cabs inside the city. There are packages like 4 hours – 40kms, 8 hours – 80kms. OTHER CLIMBING INFORMATION Bangalore has about 10 adventure gear stores. The stores are scattered all over the city. The best option is to get in touch with Terasolutions so they can arrange getting around for you or with you. These stores usually stock climbing ropes, harnesses, carabiners and quick draws. You can also hire tents, rucksacks, sleeping bags and mats at these stores. There are good rock climbers in the city. Local climbers can climb as hard as 5.14a/b or V10 – V11. The climbers are technically sound and use the best gear available. Climbers use crash pads for bouldering. Mostly crash pads are personal and climbers may not give it on hire . Though there are a lot of climbers in the city, not all are exposed to natural climbing and safety procedures. It is best to identify the right climber if you want to take him along as a guide. A climbing guide may charge you depending on his experience and knowledge of the areas and routes. Bouldering Area of Turuhalli Turuhalli is about 15kms from the centre of Bangalore. It is off the Kanakapura Road. A lovely bouldering area, it has routes of all grades. Though it is closest to the city, there are no shops/stores close to the area. One has to carry their own food and water. It is best to stay in the city and go there for a morning or an evening climb. Though there are a lot of routes, the hardest is Arnaud Petit’s ULTRAFLASH (V12V13). The maximum height of the boulders is about 15 – 18mts. You can find about 30 – 40 climbs of V3 and above. Mostly slabs and walls, there are a few over hanging problems too. The local climbers from Bangalore visit Turuhalli a couple of times every week, so you would probably meet the locals there. © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 16 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Arrangements for climbers: If you want your climbing trip to be fully arranged, with transport, guiding and accomodation, you should contact: Terasolutions - Rajesh Shivanna Tel no: +91 98867 66141 E-mail – [email protected] Website – www.terasolutions.co.in TERA solutions is an adventure solutions company, aimed and providing quality information and services related to adventure. Rajesh S, the founder of TERA solutions has been in the adventure field for about 15 years and has worked as a trainer and guide in rock climbing, backpacking, white water rafting, camping, etc, for over 12 years. TERA solutions is aimed at providing precise and complete information about all adventure sports and destinations in India. The company has tie-ups with a lot of organizations and individuals all over the country including the Himalayas. Though the potential for adventure sports is very high in India, the people do not have an inclination. You might come across a lot of people who may not be very qualified but claim to be so. TERA solutions aims to consider all these factors and promote adventure and make sure that each trip is safe, enjoyable and adventurous one. One of the key things TERA solutions aims at doing is to promote rock climbing in a major way. There is a lot of potential for rock climbing in India. TERA solutions can arrange a full rock climbing trip to all climbing destinations in India. We can design an itinerary depending on your needs and desires. We can arrange transport, stay, climbing guides, gear and any other needs. We can also organize for a guide to take you around town and make sure you find all the right things you need. Map: © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 17 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Ramanagaram Ramangaram is about 50kms from Bangalore off Mysore Road. An amazing climbing area with granite pillars, Ramanagaram has more than 20 bolted routes with varied difficulty. The area was visited by French and English climbers as early as 1988-89. They put up some nice bolted and natural (traditional) routes from 20 to 200 m. One of the best ways to reach Ramanagaram is public transport (state government bus). Bus fare may cost anything from $0.50 to $2.00 (depending on the type of bus). Busses can be found from Bangalore in the central bus station in Majestic area. There are a lot of busses, almost one every 15mins. The journey is about 90mins, depending on the traffic in the road. The busses maybe crowded and may not suit all travelers. There are air conditioned busses too. Gerhard in „UIAA“ 6c+ Ramanagaram town is about 5kms from the climbing area. There are no hotels near the climbing area. It is best to carry / cook your own food. Drinking water is not available at the area. The only option to stay near the rocks is with a local farmer (Thimmya´s House!). This person has his house very close to the rocks and is safe to stay with him. Gerhard and Petra on the top of Shanti Tower / Ramanagaram © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 18 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Overview areas: © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 19 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Ramaragam – Routes: Shanti Tower and Petra in “Shanti” 1st picth © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 20 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Savendurga Savandurga, meaning FORT OF DEATH, was one of the forts of Kempegowda, who founded Bangalore. Savandurga is an interior place about 60kms from Bangalore. Savandurga is a huge monolith with about 8 routes on the main dome. Routes range from 150mts to 300mts. The area has both bolted and natural routes. Reaching Savandurga is a little hard if one does not know the place. Though there are busses plying from Bangalore to Savandurga, it is best to arrange for your own transport as the busses are not always prompt. You can stay in one of the many Marriage Halls which have rooms. They may cost anything from $2 to $5 per day. It is better to arrange to cook your own food. Mineral/bottled water is available at the area. Savendurga Overview: © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 21 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Savendurga – Routes: The following free pdf downloads are available on www.gerhardschaar.com • Climbing & travelling guide Hampi • Climbing & travelling guide Ton Sai / Railey • Climbing & travelling guide New Zealand • Climbing & travelling guide Australia • The “different” climbers guide to Yosemite © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 22 Climbing guide to Badami – Bangalore – Ramanagaram - Savendurga Thanks: I want to thank my girlfriend Petra first of all for all the support throughout the whole journey. Without her help this little guide would have have been possible. I also want to thank the local climbers from Bangalore, Rajesh, Pranesh and Narashima very much for their hospitality and help during our stay in Bangalore. The rides with the motorbikes through town and to Ramanaragam are unforgetable. I especially want to thank Rajesh Shivanna for the contributions and corrections of the guidebook, as well as my two climbing mates from South Africa who helped me with a rough drawing of the areas and principal information. My thanks also go to Michi Tresch and Marcel Küng from Switzerland, for lenting us their bouldering pads in Badami. © Copyright by www.gerhardschaar.com page 23