god from the machine swanky ju-ma

Transcription

EXPLORING BALI
exploring
bali
DINING
SWANKY
JU-MA-NA
NIGHTLIFE
TROPICAL
SOPHISTICATION
SHOPPING
GOD FROM THE
MACHINE
ISSN 2086
2086-2539
2539
9
JUNE 2014
9
7 7 2 0 8 6
2 5 3 9 3 9
JUNE 2014
Rp. 30.000
www.nowbali.co.id
CONTENTS
page
JUNE 2014
34
exploring
bali
In this issue we celebrate Bali as a paradise of
stunning natural wonders. Our team traveled to the
corners of the island’s north, east, south, and west
to bring to you everything exquisite about the island.
Front Cover
“The Voyage Begins” by Christa
2
JUNE 2014 WWW.NOWBALI.CO.ID
10
WELCOME
PERFORMANCE
Tenun Dance: Story of women
as a creator.
12
WHAT’S ON
A round up of happenings,
launchings, things of note, and
people to watch.
26
WHAT TO DO
Experience and explore the
beauty and thrills of ATVing
through the rugged terrain of
Kerta village in Payangan.
40
KID’S FUN
Our writer Kartika Dewi
marveled at the adventurous
design of the Jungle Camp at
Grand Nikko Bali.
76
SPA & WELLNESS
Lombok historical spa.
78
SHOPPING
The Deus philosophy recalls an
era before the various pursuits
of fun – motorcycling, surfing,
skateboarding, whatever – were
marketed into fundamentalist
factions.
84
DINING
Ju-Man-Na – complete with
a stylish sisha bar, lounge,
and an exceptional wine
cellar – is intended to create
an unparalleled gourmet
experience in an ultraglamorous setting.
96
NIGHTLIFE
KU DE TA was the first to
revolutionize the nightlife and
entertainment scene in Bali,
particularly in Seminyak.
98
SECRET BALI
Rejang: A dance of many guises
106 STRANGER IN
PARADISE
Kuta’s Trancemaster Superstars
SOAPBOX
BALINESE DANCE
When you are fortunate enough to see
a really good, genuine Balinese dance
you will be enthralled. Well I certainly
hope you will be, as I was all those
years ago. There is a magic about the
performance which is quite different
from other dances. It is ritualistic, but
compelling and magnetic. It’s hard to
tear your eyes away.
First of course, comes the music. A
good performance must certainly
be accompanied by a full gamelan
orchestra which, if you have not
heard one yet, is unlike any music
in the west. A cacophony of gongs
and Xylophone type instruments,
pentatonic and repetitive but flowing like a wild mountain stream down a
hillside. It’s an experience all by itself.
Then out come the dancers. So brilliantly costumed, so beautifully made
up, so colourful and so delicate. It’s an assault on the senses with their
eyes flashing and their feet delicately tapping in a peculiar but attractive
bent-kneed stance. For me it was love at first sight.
As you watch you can’t help but wonder, “what are the finger and head
positions all about?” Is there really a meaning behind all the gestures and
eye movements? It’s fascinating and astonishing at the same time. How
can anyone remember the steps and movements?
But they do. And the immaculate timing between musicians and dancers
is rarely compromised. They are amazingly coordinated. Practice must be
punishing.
But - and there’s always a but - amid the bustle of cocktails bars, fashion
outlets, clubs, pubs, malls and chill places in Kuta, Legian, Seminyak,
Tuban, etc. the places to see a good dance have all but disappeared. You
have to go looking further afield. But it’s still there. Please spend one night
of your holiday watching a dance preferably in a quiet village somewhere
off the beaten track. Then you will really feel you are in Bali.!
Alistair G. Speirs
4
Phoenix Communications Publishing Division
TECHNICAL ADVISOR
BALI MANAGER
EDITOR
GROUP COPY EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
DESIGNER
HEAD OF SALES & MARKETING
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
Alistair G. Speirs
Weni Ariasty
Namhar Hernanto
Alison P
Kartika Dewi Suardana
Christa Sihombing
Indah O’Brien
Muhammad Husni
Edward Speirs
ADMINISTRATION BALI
Yohanes Ardianto
SECRETARY BALI
Ni Luh Artini ((Ari))
SECRETARY JAKARTA
Clora Matondang
ART DIRECTOR
PRODUCTION
SALES SECRETARY
MARKETING & PROMOTIONS
FINANCE
DISTRIBUTION
CONTRIBUTORS
DIRECTOR
HEAD OFFICE
CUSTOMER SERVICE
BALI OFFICE
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EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES
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Now! Jakarta and Now! Bali are published monthly by PT. Phoenix Communications. Opinions expressed in
this magazine are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors,
ommisions or complaints arising there from.
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WELCOME PERFORMANCE
LENNY PANDE FLUENTLY PERFORMS THE INDIGENOUS TENUN DANCE
8
TENUN
TEXT & PHOTO BY KARTIKA D. SUARDANA
I
I realized recently that I hadn’t watched the Tenun Dance performance
for quite some time. It wasn’t until the launch event of my second book
‘Real Bali’, published by NOW!Bali, where one of my lovely Balinese friends,
Lenny Pande, made an appearance on stage. A most welcome surprise,
Ms.Pande whom most know mainly as a journalist, this beautifully dressed
lady performed a dance created in the 50’s. It was the Tenun Dance, created
by I Nyoman Ridet and I Wayan Likes in 1957.
The moment Lenny made her entrance from within the crowd; all eyes
were fixated on her. The Tenun Dance portrays women as a creator. It
tells the story of those who weave beautiful fabrics, thread by thread,
that later become appreciated by all people regardless sex and age. The
basic elements of Balinese traditional dance can be seen
throughout this dance, such as agem – the halfsquat position, with a diagonally down facing head
position, and sledet – the rapid eye movements.
She kneels, then sat on her legs on the ground while
her hands moved gracefully in order to represent a lady
taking a piece of thread then arranging the thread at the loom
to start the weaving process. Lenny danced the whole weaving
process, and some dance passages thrived in depicting the beauty
of the activity. She mastered the technique very well even though
she hadn’t dance for 16 years.
Usually, more than one female dancer performs this dance, but
Lenny succeeded in occupying the whole stage by her self and
made left the audience in awe. Breaking the usual costume rule
for the dance, Lenny delightfully combined a long-sleeved, beige
kebaya – Indonesian female national top – with batik wrapped
around from waist to ankle. A piece of Balinese endek fabric
draped elegantly off her shoulder, matching the fabric she worn
as a headdress called lelunakan – Balinese female traditional
simple headdress style.
Accompanied by the soft and rhythmic sounds of the gender –
a pentatonic traditional instrument – that mixed nicely with
the soothing sounds of a bamboo flute and the stomping,
bass gong. The music arrangement definitely strengthened
the whole choreography.!
WWW.NOWBALI.CO.ID JUNE 2014
9
DANCE CALENDAR
Throughout the island, dances are performed
with some morning and some evening programs,
with different dances being performed in different
parts of Bali. The following gives you a good idea
of which dances are taking place at what time
and which village or location. For more detailed
information consult your hotel concierge or one
of the many information booths around the
tourist areas.
EVERYDAY
Tari Barong & Keris
Tari Barong & Keris
Tari Kecak
Tari Kecak
Tari Kecak
Tari Kecak
THURSDAY
Tari Legong
Tari Kecak
Tari Kecak Api
Tari Legong
Tari Barong & Keris
Mepantigan Arts
Kecak Sanghyang
Wayang Kulit
Puri Saren
Pura Taman Sari
Pura Batukaru
Pura Desa Kutuh
Pura Dalem Ubud
Arma Musium
Puri Agung Peliatan
Pondok Bambu
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
18:30 – 19:30
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
Puri Saren
Petani, Alaya Ubud
Pura Padang Kerta
Oka Kartini
Pura Dalem Ubud
Arma Musium
Bentuyung Village
Pondok Pekak
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
20:00 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
19:00 – 20:30
19:30 – 21:00
FRIDAY
Batu Bulan
Kesiman
Batu Bulan
Kesiman
Uluwatu
Tanah Lot
09:30 – 10:30
09:30 – 10:30
18:30 – 19:30
18:30 – 19:30
18:00 – 19:00
18:30 – 19:30
Tari Barong & Keris
Tari Legong
Tari Kecak & Api
Wayang Kulit
Tari Kecak Ramayana
Tari Barong & Keris
Jegog
Tari Katak
Puri Saren
Desa Junjungan
Wantilan
Pura Dalem Ubud
Br. Ubud Kelod
Pondok Bamboo
Arma Musium
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
19:00 – 20:30
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
20:00 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
SATURDAY
Puri Saren
Pura Desa Kutuh
Padang Tegal Klod
Monkey Forest
Balerung Stage
Pura Dalem Ubud
Lotus Pond
Br. Ubud Klod
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
20:00 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
MONDAY
Tari Legong
Tari Kecak & Api
Tari Barong & Keris
Tari Kecak Ramayana
Gamelan Wanita
Wayang Kulit
Legong Telek
TUESDAY
Tari Ramayana Balllet
Tari Spirit of Bali
Tari Kecak Api
Wayang Kulit
Tari Legong
Tari Legong
Gamelan Wanita
Gamelan & Tari
WEDNESDAY
Tari Legong & Barong
Wayang Kulit
Tari Legong
Tari Kecak & Api
Jegog
Tari Kecak Ramayana
Topeng Jimat
10
Puri Saren
Oka Kartini
Yamasari Stage
Padang Tegal
Pura Dalem Ubud
Pr. Dalem Tmn Kaja
Arma Musium
19:30 – 21:00
20:00 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
19:00 – 20:30
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
Tari Legong
Tari Legong
Tari Kecak Sanghyang
Tari Beauty of Legong
Tari Legong
Tari Kecak Ramayana
Tari Katak
Wayang Wong
Puri Saren
Puri Agung Peliatan
Padang Tegal
Pura Dalem Ubud
Istana Air Ubud
Pr. Dalem Tmn Kaja
Br. Ubud Klod
Arma Musium
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
Puri Saren
Padang Tegal Kaja
Oka Kartini
Arma Musium
Lotus Pond
Bentuyung Village
Pura Batukaru
Balerung Mandera
Br. Ubud Klod
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
20:00 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:00 – 20:30
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
19:30 – 21:00
SUNDAY
Legong Mahabarata
Wayang Kulit
Tari Legong
Tari Janger
Jegog
Tari Legong
Gamelan Wanita
FULL MOON
Tari Gambuh
Tari Keack Rina
Pura Desa Batuan
Arma Musium
19:00 – 20:30
19:00 – 20:30
WHAT’S ON
DRAGONAIR INAUGURATES DPS-HK ROUTE
The Hong Kong-based Dragonair has just recently inaugurated its Denpasar-Hong Kong route. The twice-a-week direct flight has
been established to cater for the increasing demand of passengers traveling between the two popular destinations. To celebrate this
inauguration, Dragonair is offering special introductory rates for this route in its Airbus A330-300. Furthermore, sister airline Cathay
Pacific is also offering special rates for other routes in Korea, Japan, USA, and Europe. For more info, you can call 021 515 1747.!
www.dragonair.com
WATERBOM ADDS FOUR MORE SLIDES
The Waterbom Bali is around the corner in presenting exciting innovation in the waterpark world by unleashing 4 new slides that are
bound to make smiles go wide and put the adrenaline to use. The four slides, namely Python, Constrictor, and two Green Vipers offer
different appeal.
The Python is going to be the biggest waterslide in the waterpark, a three-person slide ridden in a circular tube. The Constrictor and
the two Green Vipers are a juiced up versions of their predecessors (the Raft River and Jungle Ride). Not only are these slides going to be
quicker, but the journey will also be longer and more exciting with a take off point at the height of 19.62 meters.!
Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta
Phone: 755 676
12
WHAT’S ON
PLASTIC IS NOT FANTASTIC
Make your way to the Green School, just 15 minutes south of
Ubud, this coming 14 June and join fun workshops, trash fashion
show, fundraising fun-run, and enjoy live music performances
to make a statement that “plastic is not fantastic”. You can also
donate your recycled art creations to be auctioned during the
event – funds raised will be used to sponsor the “Bye Bye Plastic
Movement”.
While you’re there, you can experience Green School’s amazing
campus that was created by master craftsmen, designers
and builders, landscape architects and gardeners using a
blend of cutting-edge technology and traditional materials
and methods. The result is a truly inspirational teaching and
learning environment that stimulates critical thinking and
creative problem solving.!
Phone: 469 875
www.greenschool.org
BRI TOUCH INTERNATIONAL
UBUD VILLAGE JAZZ
FESTIVAL 2014
The 2nd annual Ubud Village Jazz Festival will be held, once again,
on the 8th and 9th of August 2014 at ARMA Ubud and will feature a
world-class line-up that is guaranteed to be even more impressive
than last year. With Acclaimed jazz musicians from Indonesia
such as Musicology, Yuri Mahatma, Astrid Sulaiman, Shadow
Puppets, Dwiki Dharmawan and Balawan, and international
musicians, such as Israeli jazz guitarist Gilad Hekselman.
This year’s theme is “Awakening Indonesia”, a lead up into
Indonesia’s Independence Day celebrations later in the month.
“Awakening Indonesia” will pay homage to the spirit of
independence by focusing on Indonesia’s young generation of
emerging musicians who are the brave, new voices of Jazz in
Indonesia. The Festival aims to provide important cross-cultural
and networking opportunities between International and local
jazz musicians and will showcase established and emerging
musicians over two days, on three stages. It will collaborate with
local industries, such as handmade drums from Jakarta and double
basses from Solo and bamboo installation for the stage décor.
This year, the BRI TOUCH International Ubud Village Jazz
Festival 2014 has partnered up with The Jazz Summer School
in Korea-Netherlands as an exciting initiative to promote Jazz
education in Indonesia. The Bali Jazz Summer School will be
held over 5 days before the festival and will be divided into 6
different classes. The tutors are Rotterdam-based professional
musicians who will also perform in the Festival.
For more info, please visit: www.balijazzsummerschool.com
Special early bird BRI TOUCH International Ubud Village Jazz
Festival tickets are now available online and will be available
until June. Don’t miss out on this extraordinary deal!
For further information or inquiries, please check our website:
www.ubudvillagejazzfestival.com!
14
WORLD OCEAN DAY
The Marine Foundation invites everyone to celebrate the
World Ocean Day at Desa Seni, during a series of events. The
celebration aims to help raise funds for a new ‘living sculpture
in the sea’ to be called Apsara, which will create new homes for
fish and coral in the Underwater Gallery in Jemeluk Bay, Amed.
The Jemeluk Bay Underwater Gallery is a series of public art
installations located underwater in Amed, created with artists
from around the world. These artworks are designed to help
regenerate the local marine ecosystem and spread the message
of the importance of preservation of the oceans and sustainable
management of the reefs.
During the week building up to World Ocean Day on 8 June, the
theme of the ocean will be infused into yoga sessions at Desa
Seni, with other special events to come.!
www.desaseni.com
POTATO HEAD BEACH CLUB
Jl. Petitenget Seminyak, 80361 Bali, Indonesia
P. +62 361 473 7979
E. [email protected]
www.ptthead.com
Twitter @pttheadbali
facebook.com/potatoheadbeachclub
WHAT’S ON
THAI AIRWAYS INCREASES
FLIGHTS SCHEDULE
To celebrate its 54th anniversary on 1 May 2014, Thai Airways
International doubles its daily flights from Jakarta to Bangkok
v.v, starting from 10 July onwards, and daily flights from
Denpasar to Bangkok v.v starting from 1 June onwards with
connecting flights to Paris, Frankfurt, India, Japan, and many
more. Experience the airline’s comfortable flights with their
A330 Business or Economy class, and enjoy excellent services
from the ground to the air with friendly crew and delectable
food onboard.!
www.thaiairways.com
EVENTS LINE UP AT JAZZ CAFE
NASI CAMPUR – SUNDAY 1ST JUNE
Nasi Campur is a multi- cultural, mixed genre band based in
Bali, and Jazz Café is proud to present this group of talented
young International musicians once more.
GRAND NIKKO 1ST
ANNUAL GOLF TOURNAMENT
Grand Nikko Bali in collaboration with Bali National Golf
Club proudly presents the Grand Nikko Bali 1st Annual Golf
Tournament, which will be held this coming 14 June. Come and
register to experience the exceptional golf tournament in a
ravishing ambiance of the island of Gods at a newly revitalized
golf club in Nusa Dua.
With IDR 1,500,000nett as the registration fee, you will enjoy
benefits outside the golf itself, including official golf shirt, precocktails and gala dinner. Great prizes to be won, such as the
“Hole in One” Grand Prize: return tickets and accommodation
to Osaka or Bangkok. There will be many lucky draw prizes to
be won as well. During the event, stay at Grand Nikko Bali for
special rate starting from IDR 1,350,000nett including breakfast
and get a free upgrade to the one bedroom pool villa, Nikko
Club Deluxe Beach Front Room or Ocean View Room.!
Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Nusa Dua
Phone: 77 33 77
MICHAEL HAAK – SATURDAY 7 TH JUNE
German Jazz Saxophonist Michael Haak presents a musical
fusion of Hip-Hop grooves, funk & jazz Bass lines, lounge
sounds, and spicy guitar chords, combined with the enchanting
melodies of sweet Jazz Vocals, as well as tender and screaming
Saxophone riffs.
RUMBATERIA –SATURDAY 14TH JUNE
Rumbateria is a newly formulated group, lead by Master Jazz
drummer Sandy Winarta and combining an extremely talented
group of musicians who like to be experimental and push the
boundaries of musical styles and genres.
DEEP SEA EXPLORERS – SATURDAY 21ST JUNE
Deep Sea Explorers are a young Bali based garage rock & roll/
blues band. Their sound is heavily influenced by a wide range
of musical genres, including: blues, rock & roll, fuzz-beat,
garage rock, and psychedelic and punk.
JAMAL MOHAMED WORLD MUSIC SPECIAL– SATURDAY 28TH
JUNE – ENTRY IDR 50K
Jamal Mohamed is an amazing Percussionist who has truly
found his medium and mastered it. He played at Jazz Café last
year and provided such a Jaw dropping show that we simply
had to invite him to play again.!
Jalan Sukma, Tebesaya, Ubud
Phone: 976 594
16
Authentic Japanese Cuisine
a taste of Japan
Goda Kats
Katsumimi
SAVOR AUTHENTIC JAPANESE CUISINE IN THE CONTEMPORARY SETTING OF BENKAY
JAPANESE RESTAURANT, WITH TEPPAN-YAKI, SUSHI BAR, YAKINIKU, SHABU - SHABU
AND SPECIAL DAILY PROMOTION.
BENKAY JAPANESE RESTAURANT at GRAND NIKKO BALI
Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, PO BOX 18, Nusa Dua, Bali - 80363, Indonesia
Tel: +62-361-773-377 Fax: +62-361-774-060
E-mail: [email protected] URL: http://www.grandnikkobali.com
WHAT’S ON
FASHION FESTIVAL 2014
This June 15 will see fashion enthusiasts swarming the BTDC
complex in Nusa Dua as the area’s premier shopping destination,
Bali Collection, throws the first ‘Bali Collection Fashion Festival’.
Feast your eyes on the latest designs by members of the Bali
Designers Association through their fashion or you can join
the many competitions held during the day such as cooking
competitions, coloring and drawing competitions, and many
more. For further information you can call 081 9999 21270, 771
622 or send an email to [email protected]
LEGENDARY DJ SIR NORMAN JAY
TO PERFORM AT
MOZAIC BEACHCLUB
Not wanting to rest on its laurels as Bali’s most elegant locale and
providing unrivalled fine dining experiences, Mozaic Beachclub
is also committed to be on the lookout to present the very best
in world-class musical performances for their sophisticated
and well-traveled clientele visiting and living in Bali. After their
enormously successful Earth, Wind & Fire Concert in March,
another fantastic event will blow away the crowds at Mozaic
Beach Club this coming Sunday, June 15. The whole beachclub
will take on a carnival atmosphere with a whole afternoon of
dancers and entertainers. Yet again, no expenses will be spared
on decorations and a special stage will be constructed backing
on the Indian Ocean.
For those who not only want to dance the day away but also the
night, DJ Shammui will play till late.
In the evening, Mozaic Beachclub will also be welcoming
Chef Alain Tolosa and his team from the famous restaurant,
Catalunya Singapore who will delight the island with a special
dinner menu served in their grand dining room from 7pm.
Bookings are essential.
Jalan Pantai Batu Belig, Kerobokan
Phone: +62 361 473 5796
18
WHAT’S ON
CONGRATULATIONS
CATHERINE JULIA.
YOU WON!
This month’s lucky NOW! Bali E-newsletter winner is
Catherine Julia, who correctly named the venue pictured
as FIRE at W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak. Ms. Julia, you
have just won two vouchers of W Bali’s “Hawker House
Street Feast Sunday Brunch” (a welcome drink, food
package and free flow of non-alcohol drinks). Indulge
yourself in their hedonistic offerings!
Have you signed up for NOW! Bali’s E-Newsletter yet? Get the
chance to win dining and leisure prizes at the best venues on
the island by subscribing to our free bi-weekly E-Newsletter
via the NOW! Bali website, www.nowbali.co.id.
BETTER LIFE IN A BOTTLE OF
WATER FROM STARBUCKS
Water changes lives. Together, we can help change the future of
those in need of safe water. Recently Starbucks Indonesia and
the Planet Water Foundation hosted the “Water for Change”
project in Deli Serdang, as part of its fourth Global Month of
Service. This program supports the advancement of Starbucks
Global Responsibility Goals which were designed to help make
communities stronger through environmental stewardship and
community engagement.
For every customer who has purchased a bottle of water in the
store, Starbucks Indonesia will donate Rp. 1,000 to Planet Water
Foundation to build Aqua Towers. Anthony Cottan, Director of
Starbucks Indonesia, said that “bringing hygienic water to areas
in need of clean water throughout Indonesia is the major goal
of this project and our customers can help us achieve this by
simply purchasing a bottle of water when they visit Starbucks.”
Cottan added, “This Aqua Tower will benefit more than 3,000
people in Deli Serdang”.
With 175 stores in Indonesia, Starbucks Indonesia recognizes
its responsibility to use its scale for good. Activities such as
Water for Change project provide an opportunity for Starbucks
partners (employees), customers and community members
to join together to demonstrate how Starbucks Indonesia is
making a local impact; inspiring and nurturing the human spirit
– one person, one cup and one neighborhood at a time.!
20
EDITOR’S CHOICE
COCKTAIL
OF THE MONTH
JUNE 2014
Vanilla Passion Foam
A luscious crisp marriage of vodka
infused with fresh vanilla beans,
homemade vanilla syrup, fresh
passion fruit & a touch of citrus.
KU DE TA
Jalan Kayu Aya, Seminyak
Phone: 73 6969
Read more about KU DE TA
on page 112
22
EDITOR’S CHOICE
DISH
OF THE MONTH
JUNE 2014
Wagyu No.9 Duo
Grilled striploin, braised beef, comte potato,
glazed root vegetables, red wine sauce
Ju-Ma-Na at Banyan Tree Ungasan
Jalan Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan
Phone: 300 7000
Read more about Ju-Ma-Na
on page 98-99
23
PERSONAL PERSPECTIVE
PROTECT
OUR SEAS
TEXT BY ALISTAIR G. SPEIRS PHOTO BY NAMHAR HERNANTO
24
I
Is there anything nicer than plunging into cool, crystal clear
water? I know that when I first came to the Far East, I was
absolutely amazed by the silky smooth, refreshing, fabulous
water I found here in Bali, and in Thailand and Malaysia. Wow,
it was a luxury.
to go in search of it. What we have instead is sometimes a
nightmare of garbage, so thick with waste that swimming
is impossible. That opening your mouth in the sea is life
threatening.
Is that what we have condemned our world to be? The world
shown in the cartoon film “Wall-E” where the people have to
leave the planet until it has been cleaned up. Where we close
our eyes and hope it will go away?
Where is it now? As you travel around Asia, the seas are no
longer azure, the fish no longer visible, the texture no longer
silk, but plastic. We have let our seas become our dumping
grounds and now we are suffering.
Perhaps you don’t think it’s your fault, and you’re right, but
please help us to, first of all put it right, and secondly prevent
it happening in the future. Give your help to those who are
cleaning up the beaches and rivers, speak to anyone you see
throwing garbage away and ask them to stop. Check with your
hotel or villa when the next clean up is taking place. Write
to the local government and ask them to take it seriously. It
seems they don’t.
Suffering because the joy of diving into that enervating water
is no longer easily available to us and our children. We have
I don’t want to lose that joy of swimming in fantastic clean
seas forever.!
25
CULTURE
GOD AND COSMIC
DUALISM IN BALI
TEXT BY JEAN COUTEAU ILLUSTRATION BY DEWA PUTU KANTOR
26
I
If one asked an educated Balinese what
the philosophical foundation of their
religion is, most will probably answer
the Rwabhinneda, a sort of dialectics
of
complementary
opposites.
The
Rwabhinneda is multi-pronged. It looks
at first simple, applied to basic realities.
People will thus talk about day and night
(lemah-peteng),
masculine-feminine
(purusa-pradana),
tangible-intangible
(sekala-niskala), good and bad (becikcorah) etc. Gods will be told to have their
demons and demons their gods (dewa,
ya—buta, ya). The Rwabhinneda is even
present in the folk stories of the asibak
hero –the one who has only half of his
own body. And last but not least, if you
are facing a big problem, you may have
someone telling you in a fatalistic tone
that “good and bad are always side by side”
(jele kelawan melah setata mesanding).
Yet, the Rwabhinneda is much more than
just popular wisdom. Or, rather, this
popular wisdom is the surface expression
of a complex philosophical system, that
of cosmic dynamism turned religion,
which one finds, in one form or another,
throughout most of the non-Moslem East.
And which is strangely in accordance
with the newest theory of the origin of
the world, that of the Big Bang - which
explains how all the known and unknown
manifestations of reality are endlessly
expanding after the initial Big Bang.
At the origin of the world, the old wise men
say, there was the awang-awung, the state
of non-reality, which first becomes a god,
the god of the void –Sang Hyang Embang--,
which in his turn becomes the unthinkable
–Sang Hyang Atintya—also called the
Supreme Siwa—ParamaSiwa. During those
transformations, God becomes creative
light, Sang Hyang Surya, the sun god, or/
and then Sang Hyang Kawi, the Creator
himself. God at that stage is still One.
The notion of God as the Sun God accounts
for the multiplicity of the Divine. What
does one see when one tries to look at the
sun? A blinding light and an unknowable
thing, just like Origin itself. But how does
one best perceive the sun? Through it rays
(prabha). And do we not see new rays for
every new movement of the body and of
the eye? Thus the gods are as numerous
and as uncountable as the rays of the sun.
Hence the origin of the term dewa, which
comes from dev or ray in Sanskrit. God
is therefore as unique and unknowable
(atintya above) as the gods are multiple
and potentially knowable through their
particular function and symbol. He is One
because he is Multiple. Wyapi-Wyapaka,
“he pervades the pervading”, as written
in the classical poem Arjuna Wiwaha.
This interpretation of the divine is thus
pantheistic. It is the opposite, even though
ultimately the same, as the concept of the
divine found in Mediterranean traditions.
In those traditions God is the contraction
of everything into an absolute Oneness,
whereas in Bali –and much of the East—it
is an expanding Oneness that turns itself
into an infinite number of manifestations.
During rites, this expanding notion of God
is well expressed in a mantra addressed to
the master of fire, Brahman the Creator.
The components of the fire made by the
burning incense turns into the gods of the
directions of the compass: The flame of
Brahma becomes Mahadewa; the charcoal
becomes Wisnu; the first spark Iswara; the
second spark Rudra; the smoke is Sangkara;
the “flower” made by the ashes is Sambhu;
and the whirling of the smoke is the divine
holy syllable, the Ongkara (OM). Thus to
every god corresponds god.
In its creative aspects, the Sublime
Creator, Sang Hyang Kawi (or Sang Hyang
Widdhi) engineers reality. His creative
energy creates its positive and negative
energetic principles: it becomes Brahma,
creator of the world, and Siwa, destructor;
whereas a third acting god intervenes, the
lord of Balance, Wisnu. The divine One
thus becomes a part of the Rwabhinneda
dualism, which further expands into the
cosmic Trinity (Trimurti) of Brahma, Wisnu
and Siwa.
So much for the creative forces. But those
forces take a material form. One finds again
here the Rwabhinneda. The male aspect of
the Rwabhinneda, the Purusa, is associated
with the spiritual, and represented by the
god of the sky, Akasa, whereas the female
aspect, the Pradana, is associated with
the material and represented by the earth
goddess, Pertiwi. Similarly, to the Supreme,
most ethereal ParamaSiwa correspond its
material opposite aspects created through
the prakrti action, called simply “Siwa”,
with SadaSiwa between the two. Here
again, the dualism turns into a trinity
called Tri Purusa (ParamaSiwa, SadaSiwa
and Siwa). And this goes on. To the four
gods of the compass and their Siwa center
correspond the five material elements
(earth, fire, wind, water and ether), the
PancaMahaButa. Eventually, the human
microcosm (Bhwana Alit) corresponds to
the universe (Bhwana Agung), the goal of
life being by Man to negate this dualism
and merge into the cosmic Oneness of
the ParamaAtma, the Sublime Soul of
the Universe, which is no else than God
himself.
One has thus an endless dialectic of
positive and negative, godly and demonic,
material and spiritual, one and multiple.
The mystery of the godly expands into
endless symbolism.
The illustrations of Dewa Putu Kantor
on the opposite page shows various
manifestations of the Rwabhinneda
principle. The human being, in the middle,
is both spirit and matter, good and evil,
black and white. Hence he is represented
as “sibak”, in two half parts. Furthermore
the man sitting on the lotus symbolizes
the human microcosm sitting on the lotus
flower, which symbolizes the macrocosm
–its petals representing the directions of
the compass. The visible man on the right
corresponds to the invisible and negative
forces to the left. On top is Atintya the
Sublime One, both male and female, lord of
the direction of the compass, god himself.!
Historian and art critic Jean Couteau
brings us stories depicting the life
on Bali, sometimes real, sometimes
myth, always meaningful.
27
DID YOU KNOW?
THE SECOND SMALLEST
IN THE WORLD
The Sumatran elephant is native to the Indonesian island of
Sumatra and is the second smallest elephant in the world
- the largest is the African elephant and the smallest is the
Pygmy elephant. Unfortunately, Sumatran elephants are now
considered endangered because of habitat loss due to illegal
logging. The heartfelt story of conflict between humans and
elephants in Sumatra is beautifully told in the Bali Safari &
Marine Park’s inspiring Elephant Show.
The park also established a haven for this amazing animal,
the “Kampung Gajah” or Elephant Village, where it houses 20
Sumatran elephants right now. Here, you can enjoy yourself
with the Elephant trail, cuddles with the baby elephants,
take some pictures, feed the elephants and you can also
see the elephants education show that tells you about their
characteristics, habits in the wild, and the differences between
the Sumatran and African elephant. Elephants are the biggest
wild land-animal as its body weight can reach up to 5,000 kg.
The spread of Asian elephants reach India, Peninsula, Sumatra,
and Sri Lanka.
If compared to African elephants, Asian elephants have smaller
bodies. These wild animals live in groups, which consist of 1030 elephants in a group. Their foods are all kinds of grasses
and fruits. Only male elephants have ivory tusks, which start
to grow at the age of 2 or 3 years old. A female elephant’s
pregnancy period is 22 months and she can give birth to 1 or 2
baby elephants.!
28
exploring bali
TEXT BY NAMHAR HERNANTO
In this issue we celebrate Bali as a paradise
of stunning natural wonders. Our team
traveled to the corners of the island’s
north, east, south, and west to bring to
you everything exquisite about the island.
Bali is an island where you can feast your
eyes on its awe-inspiring landscapes. The
enchanting natural beauty that awaits you
certainly justifies the long drives you may
need to take to get to her unspoiled, hidden
gems. To avoid getting lost during your
exploration, bring a map and familiarize
yourself ahead of time with two or three of
the towns you will encounter along the route;
although getting lost in Bali is never a bad idea!
We really hope you take the time to explore
the island with us, up-close and personal.!
north
P. 36
30
south
P. 44
east
P. 52
west
P. 60
31
let’s go!
Bali’s crisscrossed roads will lead the curious visitor to all kinds of unique
places; rustic little villages, awe-inspiring natural landscapes, and rituals that
you never even knew existed. While it may be tempting to stay on the beach
every day during your stay, getting off the main road and exploring Bali’s
deepest corners is what you should do to leave a memorable experience in
your travel diary. Take a random turn and make a stop, but take your time to
explore properly. Park your vehicle, put your walking shoes on, and prepare
yourself for a true Bali experience. !
BALI’S NEW “ONE STOP” ADVENTURE CENTRE
Yanie’s Restaurant • Blu Bar & Terrace Lounge • Shinto Spa – ArtSpace
Gallery Coffee Shop • Dewatan Bakery & Delicatessen
Jl Raya Kedewatan Ubud – Bali
P. 8989 777, F. 8989 551
www.baliadventuretours.com
32
33
A4
AWEINSPIRING
NORTH
MENJANGAN ISLAND
Mt. Prapat Agung
Gilimanuk
Seririt A4
Mt. Sangiang
Mt. Merbuk
JEMBRANA
Mt. Musi
Mt. Mesehe
Negara
REGENCIES
MOUNTAINS
POPULAR HUBS
MUNICIPALITIES
A3
WHAT TO DO
34
B1
PETULU BIRD
WATCHING
B2
TREK THROUGH
THE VILLAGE OF TARO
B3
AGUNG SUNRISE
ASCENT
B4
KERTA OFF ROAD
ADVENTURE
B5
SWING LIKE TARZAN
IN BEDUGUL
A1
GREEN BELT
OF THE
WEST
CHASING
A MAGICAL
SUNSET
A2
Singaraja
LAID
BACK AND
RELAXED
Lovina
BULELENG
Lake Buyan
Mt. Batur
Lake Bratan
Lake Batur
Lake Tamblingan
B5 Bedugul
Mt. Batukaru
Mt. Agung
A2
B3
BANGLI
Amed
KARANGASEM
B1 Tegalalang
Amlapura
TABANAN
KLUNGKUNG
B2
Mengwi
Tabanan
B4
A3
Gianyar
Candi Dasa
Padang Bai
BADUNG
Tanah Lot
Canggu
Klungkung
GIANYAR
Ubud
DENPASAR
LEMBONGAN ISLAND
Seminyak
Legian
Lembongan
Kuta
CENINGAN ISLAND
Penida
Serangan
Jimbaran
Uluwatu
A1
Pecatu
Benoa
Nusa Dua
PENIDA ISLAND
35
WHERE TO GO | NORTH
EXPLORATION
awe-inspiring
north bali
TEXT & PHOTOS BY NAMHAR HERNANTO
PURA PABEAN IN PEMUTERAN BEARS A NOSTALGIC STORY OF HOW
THE BALINESE FISHERMEN AND SAILORS AND TRADERS FROM OUTSIDE
BALI USED TO COME TOGETHER TO PRAY FOR A SAFE JOURNEY
37
WHERE TO GO | NORTH
“Driving around to the deep corners of the
island on your own can at times lead you
to pleasant surprises; especially if you get
lost! Of course, getting lost can be extremely
frustrating; but during a holiday on the
island, this can mean a closer encounter with
everything that is ‘real Bali’ – not to mention
that there are plenty of interesting things
going on when you’re off the beaten track. And
going north is just the way to do it!”
BANJAR HOT SPRING, WHICH IS LOCATED LITERALLY IN THE MIDDLE OF A
JUNGLE, PROVIDES YOU WITH AN ENOUGH DOSE TO RELAX - IT’S WHERE
YOU CAN ENJOY BATHING WITHIN A NATURAL TROPICAL SETTING.
38
EXPLORATION
I
It’s a bit odd to learn that such a beautiful place as North Bali
still doesn’t receive the number of visits it deserves – even in
the midst of the tourism boom Bali is currently experiencing.
The area’s rolling green hills are so inviting and you get to see
firsthand the authentic, traditional Balinese villages. A hill full
of colorful flowers and picturesque terraced rice paddy fields
will salute you along the way, while local villagers’ kids wave
at you with their genuine hospitality.
If attractions are what you’re looking for, then North Bali has
several unique places of interest that you won’t find down
south. The Banjar Hot Spring, which is located literally in the
middle of a jungle in Banjar sub district, will provide you with
the perfect dose of relaxation, a place where you can enjoy
bathing within a natural, tropical setting. The first bathing
area consists of a two-storey pool filled with dragon statues
spewing hot sulfur water – the upper pool is shallower and
slightly warmer than the lower one. Along the walls of the
two pools are small ridges where you can sit in the water. Be
careful when climbing down the stairs though, for the water is
not that clear and the steps are not really visible.
The other bathing area has a smaller pool but with stronger
discharged waters. Here the water pours from 3m high, giving
you a great scalp and back massage. There is also a restaurant
that serves decent food, so you can spend the whole day here,
being lazy in the hot sulfur water. Changing cabins and lockers
are provided just under the restaurant; if you feel like taking
a shower, there is an open air shower right next to the hot
springs.
Another nearby attraction in Banjar is the Brahma Arama
Vihara Buddhist Monastery. Located some 2km from the
hot spring, the Buddhist monastery is painted with colorful
decorations; it has a very bright orange roof, Buddha statues
with colorful backgrounds and Balinese decorative carvings.
This shows the solidarity amongst the Hindu and the Buddhist
community who live on the island.
On the very top of the monastery are complexes of stupas that
visitors call small Borobudur. There is a vast meditation area
and everyday many guests visit this temple. Some of them
come to relax and take the opportunity to meditate; others
to admire the beautiful buildings and surroundings. The area
is very peaceful and has panoramic views overlooking Lovina
Beach. Visitors are always welcome and are asked to respect
the tranquility of the area and the beliefs of the locals by
wearing sarong or sash upon entering the temple.
39
WHERE TO GO | NORTH
Adding to the existing attractions in the north coast of Bali
is the Hatten Wines. Opening its stunning Observation Deck
and Welcome Center in the village of Sanggalagit, the wine
company has made its biggest vineyards accessible to visitors.
Originally started in 2001, this 14-hectare vineyard is part of
the 35-hectares the company owns and manages on the north
coast. With several properties spread along the coastal road
from Seririt to Pemuteran, Hatten Wines has built the Welcome
Center and Observation Deck at Sanggalangit, creating a new
attraction for visitors of the North Coast promoting its beauty
and one of its main industries.
The architecture of the buildings is a statement of Hatten
Wines celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2014. The buildings
bring a bit of color in the greenery of the vineyards and stand
as a reminder of the modern approach Hatten Wines has to its
winemaking and its products. A modern platform is erected
above the grapevine’s treeline - the observation deck is a
striking, colorful structure with views of the vineyard, the
mountains and the surroundings.
The Welcome Center is a small, cozy structure wherein sits
a prominent tasting bar and lounging sofas that invite you
to enjoy the wine whilst admiring the vines. Planted at
different times, the surrounding vines explain their different
growth stages and guests can witness the grape’s lifecycle at
anytime of the year. This unique feature allows amateurs to
40
understand the growth process, whilst simultaneously trying
the wines served at the Welcome Center. For further info
about the vineyard tour, you can call 767 422 or send an email
to [email protected].
While the beaches in Bali’s mass resort areas might have a
reputation for being loud and crowded, the Pemuteran area
in North Bali is home to quiet coastal communities. That
being said; if you feel like escaping to a beach but want some
solitude and quiet, look no further.
Following a picturesque three-hour drive through the rolling
hills and plantations down to the coastal lowlands, you
will enter this area that lies on the quiet North West coast
of the island, sandwiched between the West Bali National
Park containing pristine coral reefs and luxuriant tropical
rainforest.
We’ve been there before – though only once – and, of course,
heard plenty of stories about the area; about the intriguing
EXPLORATION
Bio Rock Structures, a forest of wire frames through which
low voltage electric current is run to encourage fast coral
regeneration; a pleasant walk, wandering up the beach and
past the rural countryside for magnificent coastal views; and,
for the energetic explorer, to set out on a guided hike through
the West Bali National Park in search of deer, pigs, macaques
or the elusive Bali Starling.
While the wonders of Pemuteran that we already knew and
experienced astounded and enchanted us, our recent visit
to the area, which gave us time to explore more properly,
introduced us to another grandeur the area has. It was Pura
Pabean, a worshipping place and an architectural brilliance
that combines the Buddha, Hindu and Islam influences.
On the grounds that border the ocean, Pura Pabean hearkens
to a nostalgic story of how the Balinese fishermen and sailors
and traders from outside Bali used to come together to pray
for a safe journey. The word ‘pabean’ itself, which can be
translated into ‘customs’, implies that the temple was also a
stopover for the seamen centuries ago.
All in all, North Bali in general is a place where you can feast
your eyes on its awe-inspiring landscapes. The enchanting
natural beauty that awaits you certainly justifies the long
drive. This region is still relatively unknown, and to avoid
getting lost in this rural jungle, bring a map and familiarize
yourself ahead of time with two or three of the towns you will
encounter along the route.!
OBSE
OBSE
OBSERVATION
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((PHOTO
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COURTESY OF
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WINES
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SANGGALAGIT.
41
WHERE TO GO | NORTH
SLEEP IN NORTH BALI
Matahari Beach Resort & Spa
This resort is a perfect destination for connoisseurs of
luxury and relaxation.
Phone: 0362 92 312
www.matahari-beach-resort.com
Damai
Hidden in the jungle-clad hills overlooking the coast, this
retreat is dedicated to beauty and tranquility.
Phone: 0362 41 008
www.damai.com
Villa Mayo
A piece of paradise, this hidden gem offers oceanfront
tranquility from where both sunset and sunrise are best
observed. The in-house restaurant is just amazing.
Phone: 0818 555 635
www.villamayobali.com
Pondok Sari
Pondok Sari is well known for its tropical garden, its
traditional architecture and its shady trees on the sandy
beach next to the calm sea.
Phone: 0362 94 738
AN ARCHITECTURE
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42
43
WHERE TO GO | SOUTH
TEXT & PHOTOS BY KARTIKA D. SUARDANA
“Pictures of a breathtaking sunset in Uluwatu
can be found on postcards, websites about Bali,
tourism guides and so on. The beauty of an old
temple with a glowing, amber sun setting behind
it attracts hundreds of visitors daily. Uluwatu has
become a must visit site on the island.”
44
44
JUN
JU
JUNE
UN
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2014
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EXPLORATION
BREATHTAKING SUNSET OVER ULUWATU TEMPLE
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45
45
WHERE TO GO | SOUTH
THE
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46
EXPLORATION
U
Uluwatu is originally the name of the
temple, Ulu meaning land’s end and watu
meaning rock. This name truly represents
this temple as it is found at Bali’s most
southern tip, where Bali ‘ends’, perched
on the edge of a cliff. Once, the area
surrounding the temple was just dry earth,
with no water source, with only spots of
cotton trees that are able to survive the
arid conditions. Now it has developed into
an expensive and ‘most wanted’ area for
hotels or as it offers extravagant views
of the gleaming Indian Ocean. The name
Uluwatu now refers almost to the entire
area south of the fishing village Jimbaran.
Uluwatu is about 45 minutes drive from
Nusa Dua or one and half hour drive from
Kuta toward Jimbaran passing through
jungles and cliffs beside the vast blue
ocean.
One afternoon I drove to Uluwatu on a
quest for a magical sunset. Being early for
sunset I decided to stop by at Garuda Wisnu
Kencana, a cultural park showcasing an
unfinished bronze statue of Lord Vishnu
and Garuda (mythical bird). The entrance
fee we paid includes watching Balinese
dance performances scheduled every
hour at the amphitheater. Garuda Wisnu
Kencana refers to the condition of the
Lord Vishnu – a Hindu God who protects
life- sitting on his holy vehicle, which is
the mythical bird, Garuda. After years, the
47
WHERE TO GO | SOUTH
statue has not yet been finished; Vishnu’s head and torso
are situated on the highest ground of the area where a
holy spring is also located. Lower behind, on the spacious
green yard between the cliffs, the head of the Garuda is
showcased.
Continuing the trip to the edge, I couldn’t resist making
a stop at Padang Padang. This small idyllic beach looks so
different from the last time I visited. I feel the beach is now
over capacity, yet still enjoyable. I checked out what was
happening on the beach from the bridge, before I walked
down to the cave that connects the main road at the top of
the cliff to the beach far below.
At around 5 pm, I continued driving to the temple. Hundreds
of visitors had already flocked to the area. A family of
monkeys was the first to greet me as I entered the jungle
area. There is a pathway on the edge of the cliff that goes
directly to the temple. The path looks a bit like The Great
Wall of China because it stretches as long as 1km, give or
take, from west to east. It was great exercise, walking
through the path up to the temple while trying to avoid the
naughty monkeys. The cheekier ones are known to snatch
glasses, earrings, cameras and even slippers from visitors!
Finally, around 6pm, the sky slowly turned orange with few
lines of pink stretching the length of the horizon. The Indian
Ocean became a shimmering mirror, reflecting the sky’s
brilliance. The mountainous roof of the temple stands out
on the edge of the cliff making a great beautiful silhouette.
Far below the golden waters crashed against the foot of the
cliff, the sounds of swashing filling the air to welcome the
coming night.!
BIRD’S EYE VIEW OF THE TRANQUIL PADANG PADANG BEACH
48
EXPLORATION
49
WHERE TO GO | SOUTH
SLEEP IN ULUWATU
Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts Bali
This designer resort offers a sophisticated
contemporary design born from the
encounter between traditional Balinese
forms and high Italian style.
Phone: 8471000
www.bulgarihotels.com
Alila Uluwatu
The exquisite luxury villas lets you
rediscover the joy of pure relaxation in
unparalleled comfort and space.
Phone: 848 2166
www.alilahotels.com
Banyan Tree Ungasan
Perched 70 meters above sea level on the
cliffs of Bali’s southernmost peninsula, the
resorts lives up to its name, offering high
level of comfort and privacy.
Phone: 300 7000
www.banyantree.com
Harris Bukit Jimbaran
Overlooking the stunning Jimbaran Bay, this
4-star hotel features 245 rooms and suites.
Phone: 846 8777
bukitjimbaran-bali.harrishotels.com
OBSERVING SUNSET IN THE SOUTHERNMOST OF BALI’S PENINSULA
50
WHERE TO GO | EAST
52
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EXPLORATION
QUIET ATMOSPHERE IN THE FISHING VILLAGE OF AMED
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53
53
WHERE TO GO | EAST
“Amed is a stretch of coastline located on the northeastern part
of the island, in the Karangasem Regency that consists of seven
villages. The area can be reached in, give or take, 2 hours by car
from Ngurah Rai International Airport. It sounds far and takes time,
but after passing through the busy traffic in the south, the ocean
views on the right, green hills on the left, the humble village scenes
along winding roads and the backdrop of the majestic Mt.Agung
makes for an enjoyable journey.”
54
EXPLORATION
My idea of a holiday in Amed consists of taking long coastal
walks looking out towards the green mountains; or jumping
in to the crystal clear waters with the snorkel gear on and
admiring the beautiful underwater life under the sea. Amed
is one my favourite destinations because of its beautiful
views, both on land and under the sea.
It was a long weekend when I decided to pack and escape
the busy southern life. I booked a beachfront bungalow at
Uyah Hotel, which I wouldn’t describe as ‘high-end’ but
their location is more than ideal and I enjoyed the natural
hospitality offered. Surprisingly, I recognised a few faces
from Denpasar gathering at the hotel restaurant. There
were friends from environmental NGOs: Conservation
International, Coral, and Reef Check Indonesia, who
collaborate in a program, called the Eco Diver Program,
which trains the local professional divers in identifying
reefs, fish and other indicators to monitor the health of
the ocean.
PEACEFULNESS BLANKETS BALI’S EASTERN COASTAL AREA
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WHERE TO GO | EAST
56
Mornings in Amed are fresh and quiet. I spent the morning
walking along the beach. As the sun was rising slowly, as
if waking up from its slumber beneath the ocean, the sky
began to brighten. The surrounding hills were glowing
green as the sunlight bathed their surface. After a hearty
breakfast, I joined the Eco Diver Program volunteering to
document their underwater activity.
Diving in Amed is never boring. The coast has several
interesting spots offering captivating underwater beauty.
The gentle seabed slope in front of Garam Amed resort
and restaurant is the place to encounter some unique sea
critters such as the pipe horse or skeleton shrimp, amongst
others. Further east towards Jemeluk Bay, a submarine
post box has been installed 6m under the sea amongst the
coral reef, a part of the fisherman community’s marine
conservation efforts. Waterproof postcards are sold at
the community shop on the spot and visitors can send it
through the undersea post box that can be reached by free
diving or scuba diving. For more underwater fun, travel up
to Banyuning nearby Lipah Bay and explore the Japanese
Wreck that can even be accessed from the shore. The small
shipwreck, found 20m offshore, is said to be an old, World
War II Japanese sea patrol that sunk. The shipwreck is
surrounded with a great formation of coral reef, where an
abundance of reef fish and unique marine-life live.!
GET CLOSE AND PERSONAL
WITH OUR WILDLIFE
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Bali Zoo
@zoo_bali
BALIZOO
Jl. Raya Singapadu, Sukawati, Gianyar 80582, Bali, Indonesia
t. +62 361 294357 f. +62 361 298608 [email protected]
5HVHUYHRQOLQHDQGVDYHRIIRQDOOSDFNDJHV
AMED’S COLORFUL UNDERWATER ECOSYSTEM
www.bali-zoo.com
WHERE TO GO | EAST
SLEEP IN AMED
The Griya Villas and Spa
The Griya has 14 intimate and
luxurious
modern
Balinese
villas that are set amidst Amed’s
striking natural setting.
Phone: 0363 23571
www.thegriya.com
Santai
This beachfront resort offers
exotic atmosphere surrounded by
lush tropical gardens.
Phone: 0363 23487
www.santaibali.com
CORALS BUILDING UP ON THE SUBMERGED BALINESE STATUE IN AMED
58
WHERE TO GO | WEST
green belt
of the west
“Known as the ‘rice bowl’ of Bali, Tabanan is
just where to go if you long for tranquility and
relaxation – and if you would like to experience Bali
in its own special and traditional nature.”
THE REWARDING BIRD-EYE VIEW OF LAKE TAMBLINGAN AS YOU
DRIVE DOWN TOWARDS MUNDUK DIRECTION.
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WHERE TO GO | WEST
T
This beautifully landscaped regency is divided into a series
of environments. The lowlands are covered with rice fields,
while the surrounding high hills greet travelers with steeply
terraced fields carved out of the fertile soils. Take a walk
through the villages and sweep away in the melodies of the
gamelan orchestra at the bale banjar or community center.
You might well be the only visitor there at that time.
As you pass through the undisturbed beauty of the villages,
you get to witness the locals doing their daily activities; a
lady walking down the road in her traditional outfit, or one
fixing an offering in the village temple. Children normally
play by on the village streets, chasing one another or even
climbing a tree. There are numerous small roads and
unmade tracks; be brave and venture them, and learn that
the simple, unpretentious life of the Balinese people can be
so captivating.
Of course, Tabanan is very famous for the Tanah Lot
Temple. One of Bali’s most sacred sea temples, and
probably most photographed, Tanah Lot is dedicated to the
guardian spirits of the sea. Tanah Lot Temple is said to be
the work of a 15th century priest called Nirartha. While on
his travels along Bali’s south coast he found this beautiful
spot and rested there for the night. Local fishermen saw
him and he instructed them to build a holy place where the
Balinese Sea Gods could be worshipped.
Inside the actual temple compound itself there are tiered
shrines that follow the fundamental elements of Balinese
design, where the number of levels constructed are
symbolic to the complexities of the faith. There are other
formations within the area that indicate that the site is
not only of great religious importance, but also maintains
archaeological value. Hidden amidst the rocks and crevices
surrounding Tanah Lot there are a number of black sea
snakes. Although these snakes are tame, visitors are warned
to be cautious and refrain from unnecessarily aggravating
these reptiles or wandering off unaccompanied to explore.
These snakes are believed to be the guardians of the temple
and protect the entire area from unseen evil forces.
Only certain Balinese people about to perform the ritual
prayer or religious activities are allowed entry into the
temple – visitors are only allowed to observe from the
outside. Crowds especially gather on the terraces nearby to
watch the glow of the sunset behind the temple. Naturally,
there are plenty of souvenir shops and cafes with a view
to keep you well-supplied while doing so. Don’t forget to
check the coral life that exists in abundance below the
water’s surface.
62
EXPLORATION
THE MAJESTIC PURA GUBUG NESTLES ON THE EDGE OF LAKE TAMBLINGAN.
63
WHERE TO GO | WEST
Also most photographed in Tabanan is the challenging 18-hole golf course
found at the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort, the Nirwana Bali Golf Club. The
golf club is a visual masterpiece of dramatic ocean views and lush Balinese
landscapes. The golf course offers a spectacular adventure for golfers of all
skill levels.
Test your accuracy and consistency like a PGA Professional or simply relax
and enjoy the views with three holes running along the cliffs of the Indian
Ocean and terraced rice paddies providing unique hazards at this resort. For
a truly memorable experience, relax, rejuvenate and reward yourself as you
play your way around the award winning golf club.
Moving to the village of Mengwi you’ll find an attraction that not a lot of
visitors know about: Sangeh in Mengwi. Many Balinese people consider
Sangeh as the real Monkey Forest in Bali – not to be confused with the
popular one located in Ubud. The story of this monkey forest goes back
to the 17th century when an adopted son of the King of Mengwi received
a heavenly message to build a temple on Sari Hill. His obedience towards
God’s order has turned the once barren landscape with no plants at all into
a green expanse surrounded and protected by trees. It is said that all this
greenery was supernaturally teleported by God Ida Bhatara from His holy
volcano, Mount Agung. However, that wasn’t the only bout of magic that
occurred that day, for hundreds of monkeys were also sent to the temple’s
area to occupy the trees.
64
EXPLORATION
A LOCAL TAMBLINGAN VILLAGER SPENDS A QUIET AFTERNOON FISHING IN THE LAKE.
65
WHERE TO GO | WEST
These monkeys immediately began
their roles as protectors inside and
around the temple. Some faithful
elders in this area claim that they
can verbally communicate with these
monkeys – but only when they are
praying and very focused. Not only
that, the elders also said that actually
anyone has the ability communicate
with the monkeys. If we are in a highly
focused state of mind, then it is said
that we can hear the monkeys talking
to us – and that we can talk back to
them. Today, this area is called Sangeh;
due to its abundance of trees and
monkeys, Sangeh is also referred to as
the Monkey Forest.
Also, different from the ones in Ubud
or Uluwatu, the monkeys in Sangeh
are not aggressive. So it is considerably
safe to still wear your sunglasses or hat
when visiting the area. Despite the fact
that being able to talk to monkeys may
not be totally true, why not you can
always give it a shot and find out for
yourself?
Further up the regency is the popular
Bedugul, a large area covering the
western highlands of Bali, and just the
place to go to when the coastal area’s
heat and humidity finally get to you.
Bedugul entertains visitors to the area
with three lakes that provide everything
from water activities recreation to
grandeur shows especially when
Balinese Hindu ceremonies take place
at the Pura Ulun Danu Bratan (Lake
Bratan Temple).
The Lush pine forest seems to create
freshness in the air around Lake
Bunyan. Gazing over the lake from
higher ground with a hot cup of coffee
in hand can definitely give you that
well-deserved break from hectic daily
life.
Driving down to the direction of
Munduk Village, and not too distant
from Lake Bunyan, is the other lake
that offers nothing but breathtaking
natural beauty and pure peacefulness:
Lake Tambilngan. The peaceful and
serene water of this lake contrasts
the wild forest of the surrounding
(commonly bustling with the sounds of
insects). And making it dramatic is the
majestic Pura Gubug that sits on the
edge of the lake.
Certainly, you cannot leave Bedugul
without making a stop at the
Candikuning Market, a delight for
fresh fruits, vegetables, and flowerlovers. A five-minute drive from the
market is the Kebun Raya Eka Karya
(Bali Botanical Gardens) that offers
above all else, coolness and tranquility
with some 1,500ha of stunning walks,
rainforest, conifer groves, palms, tree
ferns, etc.!
SLEEP IN TABANAN
Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali
This five-star resort offers a wide
range of exquisite rooms, leisurely
pursuits and pampering services
that are available right at your
doorstep.
Phone: 815 900
www.panpacific.com
Alila Villas Soori
This luxurious beachfront resort
leads you to depths of relaxation you
never knew existed.
Phone: 894 6388
www.alilahotels.com
Strawberry Hill Hotel
Incorporating
features
of
a
typical Indonesian mountain-style
residence, Strawberry Hill sets new
standards for accommodation in
the Bedugul area.
Phone: 0368 21265
www.strawberryhillbali.com
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66
WHAT TO DO
kerta
off road
adventure
TEXT BY NAMHAR HERNANTO PHOTO BY EDWARD SPEIRS
68
EXPLORATION
N
Now this is not your typical “pony-ride” tour, for you’ll experience
and explore the beauty and thrills of ATVing through the rugged
terrain of Kerta village in Payangan. Just minutes away from
Ubud, you can enjoy some of Bali’s finest scenic vistas on a high
altitude through an ATV/buggy adventure with Bali Quad Discovery
Tours. The adventure takes place in a rural area, offering a great
experience of driving your own off road vehicle (or enjoying the
ride as a co pilot) with the opportunity to learn about the way the
local people live.
The Bali Quad Discovery Tours’ experienced guides are extremely
knowledgeable in local history as well as geography. The ATVs
and Buggies are the easiest and safest to operate that even riders
with no prior experience can operate; this provides you a safe and
enjoyable experience while navigating through your adventure.
You’ll be guided to some of the most stunning spots on the
island through small tracks, where you’ll encounter the
friendly locals.
There will be a practice session prior to the adventure, when
you can familiarize navigation by trying out your preferred
vehicle on a training circuit. And after driving some test tracks
on the practice spot, you will be able to operate it yourself
and start for some 2 hours of an adventurous sightseeing tour.
During the tour there will be a short break at a sightseeing
point where you can relax while enjoying the beautiful view of
the nearby rice fields and the surrounding hills. Limitation for
self driving is 16 years of age. Younger participants (starting
from 5 years of age) can join the tour as a co-pilot.!
Bali Quad Discovery Tours
Jalan Wirasatya VI No. 4X, Denpasar
Phone: 720 766
69
WHAT TO DO
trek through
the village
of taro
TEXT & PHOTO BY NAMHAR HERNANTO
70
EXPLORATION
T
Taro village in Ubud is characterized by its terraced rice fields,
dense forests, and dramatic, rolling landscapes. The vastness and
beauty can be quite startling to visitors. Any visitors approaching
the area will appreciate it, and it is worth stopping just to absorb
the beauty of it all. Yet, most of the travelers that pass through
Taro are unaware that the village’s charm extends beyond its
forests. And this is why you need to make a stop at this village; but
take your time to explore properly.
That’s right, explore properly! And the way to do it is by going
on a guided trekking by Bali Adventure Tours through the hills
of Boenjaka in the village. This will give you a chance to wander
through a bamboo forest and see the timeless routine of planting
and harvesting rice from the endless stretches of emerald green
rice fields that unfold before you. Your trek guides will introduce
the flora and fauna you pass throughout the tour, including king
and queen palm trees, ferns, wild orchids, hanging liana and a
variety of birds such as the Java Kingfisher, and Black Bali Starling.
You will also be taken to a traditional Balinese family compound on
the hill, and see firsthand how the locals do their daily routines. En
route agricultural plantations of coffee, coconut, and palm can be
seen, and tropical fruits such as the snake skin fruit (salak), durian,
jackfruit, papaya, oranges, mandarin, mangoes, and mangostene.
In addition, you can sample spices such as cinnamon, ginger, and
turmeric direct from their natural source.
The 2-hour trek includes an exclusive passage directly through the
spectacular Elephant Safari Park where majestic and endangered
Sumatran Elephants meander by within inches of your trail. Lunch
is served in the safari inspired coconut and teak wood open-air
restaurant overlooking the bathing lake of the Elephant Safari
Park before a return drive south through the unspoiled Balinese
countryside.!
Bali Adventure Tours
Phone: 721 480
www.baliadventuretours.com
71
WHAT TO DO
petulu
bird watching
B
Being a part of Ubud district, Petulu is a village famed for its artists, dancers and carvers.
The quiet atmosphere of this village offers a traditional glimpse of Bali within one of the
most scenic settings on the island, where one can easily see the modesty of the villagers as
they skillfully make palm-leaf trays to lay their offerings in pristine natural surroundings.
And what many don’t know is that the village is also home to hundreds, if not thousands,
of white herons.
There is a belief that these herons are a reincarnation of thousands of Balinese who were
slaughtered in a massacre during the Indonesian Communist Party regime in the 60s, when
tge anti-communist witch hunt swept over the nation. According to the villagers, these
‘souls of the slaughtered’ appeared in the village exactly one week after an attempted
communist coup led to failure in 30 September 1965. No herons had been seen in the
village before then.
Surely, Petulu will leave an unforgettable afternoon for everyone visiting the area;
especially when flows of the herons are flocking the village to roost there. Standing on
the rim of the rice fields with your head looking up straight observing the sky provides
a magical vision – the blue sky above turns crimson with little white dots of the herons
from a distant that will gradually grow bigger as they are approaching and flying low
before finally hopping onto their nests. As the sun sets, the trees of Petulu will change
appearance into clumps of white as the herons nest there. However, you might need to
get a safe spot or walk quickly under the trees if the herons are already roosting, for the
copious droppings in the road will indicate it’s wise not to hang around!
72
73
WHAT TO DO
agung sunrise
ascent
TEXT & PHOTO BY EDWARD SPEIRS
T
The sunrise trek up Mt. Agung is one of the most spectacular
outdoor experiences you can have in Bali. It is both challenging
and breathtaking, but an absolute treat for any nature-lover
or explorer. This majestic volcano is located in east Bali,
Karangasem Regency. Those coming from the south often
make their way through Klungkung and Candidasa to get
there.
The best experience of Agung is definitely the sunrise ascent,
which begins at around 1.30am. This is done from the easiest
route up the southern face of the mountain. With walking
stick in hand, jacket on your back (as it gets very cold) and
headlamp ready, you will make your way up a set of stairs
74
that takes you to temple Pura Pasar Agung, which is already
at 1,700m above sea level. The first half of the trek passes
through thick vegetation, along softer earth paths. You will
have to watch your step and your head as you meander
through low hanging branches and thick roots.
At around 2,200m above sea level the vegetation will stop
and will be replaced by hard, volcanic rock that you must
scramble over carefully. This hard rock continues up until
you reach the crater, 3,042m high. It will be around 5:50am
by this time, whereby you can sit and watch in absolute awe
as the sun rises behind Mt. Rinjani in Lombok, and its warm
light reveals the whole south coast, from which you can see
from the best viewing nest in Bali.
The descent is slow and must be done carefully, but offers a
completely different experience as you can now see all that
you missed during the dark, night ascent. Trekking up Mt.
Agung is challenging. You must be confident, fit and cannot
be afraid of heights. You should be well prepared and well
informed. Make sure to use a professional guide like those
from www.mudigoestothemountain.com or book with Alila
Manggis (phone: 0363 41011).!
75
WHAT TO DO
swing
like tarzan
in bedugul
K
Kids just love role playing. And what is a better role to play than
Tarzan? That’s right, the Bali Treetop Adventure Park allows
children and parents to swing like the king of the jungle. With
different circuits, you and your family can find the right circuit
for your level and age, or even try the more challenging circuits.
Suitable for those aged 4 to over 60 with a maximum weight
of 120kg, the outdoor challenges offered at the park are set
amongst towering trees in the cool breeze of Bedugul. But
don’t worry, for throughout the entirety of the circuits you will
remain attached to a life-line support. Patrol guides will also be
situated along the circuit ready to advise and assist as needed giving support from above and below.
There are seven levels of circuit with seventy-two challenges –
squirrel yellow circuits (for kids aged 4 to 6, 95cm minimum),
squirrel green circuits (for kids aged 4 to 8, 95cm minimum),
green circuits (over 6 years old, 110cm minimum), blue circuits
(over 8 years old, 120cm minimum), orange circuits (over 8
years old, 120cm minimum), red circuits (over 10 years old,
130cm minimum), and black circuits (over 12 years old, 140cm
minimum). As long as you respect the minimum height
requirements for each particular circuit, you are free to try as
many circuits as you please in two and a half hours.!
Eka Karya Bali Botanical Garden, Baturiti, Tabanan
Phone: 852 0680
www.balitreetop.com
76
KID’S FUN
ADVENTURE TIME
AT JUNGLE CAMP
TEXT BY KARTIKA D. SUARDANA PHOTOS COURTESY OF GRAND NIKKO BALI
78
I
I marveled at the adventurous design of the Jungle Camp at Grand Nikko Bali. This creative kids club is divided into two areas,
an indoor playground and outdoor playground. Found in the indoor playground is a range of different active games, such as
colourful building blocks, bowling and foosball, amongst other things.
The outdoor section of this extensive kids club serves as the real reason for its name, ‘Jungle Camp’ - kitted out with a jungle
gym, surrounded by green vegetation and a tropical cave-like atmosphere. Here the kids can climb cargo nets, run across
suspended bridges, crawl through a hanging tunnel and slide down into a soft sand pit below. Even more impressive is the
climbing wall situated in the corner. When I was there a little boy was doing his best to clamber to the top, with one of Jungle
Camp’s staff holding tight onto the safety rope and giving instructions at the same time. The nearby sandy pool creates a
casual beach atmosphere and children can make a sand castle here too.
I had a little chat with Mrs. Erni, the staff on duty. She told me that the camp is for children from 4 to 12 years old. The camp,
located at the Hotel’s Cliff Tower, offers various programs by the hour, although different every day, the programs can also
be customized accordingly to the children’s likes. Some of their most wanted programs are drawing & painting, wearing
Balinese dress with photo session, arts & crafts, and clay painting.
However, the Jungle Camp’s activities aren’t restricted to the kids club’s area only, because the kids are also brought to play
in the pool, go crab hunting on the beach, feed the camels and fish, or the visit the secret passages of the hotel in order to
learn how the hotel operates from behind the scenes.!
Jalan Nusa Dua, Kuta Selatan • Phone:+62 361 773377
79
SPA & WELLNESS
LOMBOK’S
HISTORICAL SPA
TEXT BY SARAH PREWITT
“As the temperature cools and the island
enters the start of its dry season many find
this the perfect time to explore Bali’s outlying
islands. With many of Bali’s spa resorts and
day spa ‘branches’ now on neighbouring
islands, such as Lembonggan, any of the Gilis,
Lombok or Sumbawa, why not plan a fun
escape and go on spa trip? While you explore
the wonders of these different islands, you
can also explore some of the different healing
techniques available there.”
80
T
The Tugu Hotel in Lombok is an ideal
place to explore the culture, history and
geography of Bali’s nearest neighbor. A
vastly different culture, and a majestic
landscape await visitors to the Tugu Hotel
at Sire Beach, North Lombok.
Tugu’s spa, The Hening Swarga Spa, follows
the theme of the hotel and presents the
past of Indonesia in all it’s mystery and
romance. This historic experience begins
as you make your way across the grounds
to the architecturally captivating building
set against a backdrop of swaying palm
trees and the silhouette of Mount Rinjani.
The spa menu here includes traditional
massages from Lombok that differ in their
approach to the Balinese style. In Lombok
they focus on the joints of the bones and
also apply deeper pressure on muscles
rather than the ‘long’ strokes used in
Balinese massages. They are particularly
good for any kind of sports stress or
tensions related to repetitive strain
injuries or longs hours working at a desk.
The romance of the resort also flows into
the spa, with treatments for couples to
take together including bathing rituals
taken in a Hamam style bathing pavilion,
where a beautifully tiled bath is drawn,
scented and scattered with petals.
Follow the magical stories of ancient
times through the interiors of the hotel
and immerse yourself in an exploration
of history while you explore your own
patience and discipline by taking advantage
of the daily yoga classes.
On nearby Gili Meno, the wonderful people
of Karma Group have recently opened
their new Reef Resort, and while the spa
facilities are minimal they deliver their
award winning massages in the beach spa
huts and in the privacy of the guests’ sea
facing, lumbung style accommodation.
Explore the art of deep relaxation and
give your mind and body the luxury of a
wholesome rest, in this in this supportive
and dream-like environment of the beach
fringed resort.
Just off the coast of Sumbawa, the idyllic
and exclusive resort of Amanwana
immerses its guests in a program that
includes the exploration of the rainforest,
the coral reef and the magical lake of
Setonda Island. In the elegantly tented
resort itself, the spa facilities invite
guests to enjoy semi-outdoor massage
experiences under a rainforest canopy.
Nearer to Bali, the island of Nusa
Lembonggan is just a day trip away for
most visitors. However, the best way to
visit is to spend a few days there to explore
all three of the islands in the cluster. Catch
up on some sleep on calm, early nights and
during the day indulge in the very pleasant
treatments at the GLO Day Spa that has
opened on the island. Alongside the highly
acclaimed treatments and services offered
at all GLO Salons, the mani-pedis, the
crème baths and gorgeous massages with
natural oils, GLO on Lembonggan offers
island-appropriate treatments for the hair
and body that take care of sun exposure,
prevent over dehydration and keep skin
plump and happy under the tropical sun.
When exploring the islands remember
that prevention is always the best policy,
so take care of sun exposed skin by using
sun block and moisturizing creams, wear
a hat when out in the sun, and after a day
of exposure find a gentle massage with
cooling oils to ease the heat from the skin,
or take a Balinese Luluh for a reviving soak
in a herbal bath. Explore and enjoy.!
81
SPA & WELLNESS
OTHER SANCTUARIES
These other spa and wellbeing centers are well known for their unique
treatments, luxurious facilities and exceptional experiences.
SUPER FACIALIST SU-MAN HSU
RETURNS TO AWAY® SPA
Su-Man Hsu will be in-house at the W Bali’s renowned AWAY®
Spa from 14 June until 24 June, offering her legendary ‘five star’
signature facials to hotel guests and in-the-know locals. SuMan has built an esteemed reputation over the past ten years
as an international leader in skincare, carefully re-crafting the
art of the luxurious facial. She is the woman behind countless
A-Listers’ seemingly ageless beauty, including Juliette Binoche,
Frienda Pinto and Anne Hathaway, who have described their
body treatment with Su-man as “a life-changing experience”.
Su-Man’s signature facial, inspired by the principles of Shiatsu
and Pilates, begins with an intensive skin analysis so she can
tailor the facial to each client’s specific needs. The skin is deeply
cleansed with steaming, before Su-Man extracts impurities,
exfoliates, tones and moisturizers the face with her carefully
designed massaging techniques and her own specially created
skincare products.!
Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak
Phone: 473 8106
WELLNESS ESCAPE AT PEPPERS SENTOSA
SEMINYAK
With the growing demands of living in
today’s fast paced world taking its toll, it
is often all too easy to overlook the need
to simply slow down and take care of
ourselves. The newly rebranded Peppers
Sentosa Seminyak truly understands
this problem and has created a choice of
three-day and seven-day wellness escape
programs to restore balance to one’s life.
colon hydrotherapy, spa treatments, yoga
classes, and breathing and meditation
sessions. Additionally, a nutritious meal
plan or a complete juicing course together
with cooking classes, lectures and other
activities complement each program. The
wellness escape programs will be held on
a monthly basis commencing in the second
and fourth week of June.!
To ensure maximum results, all programs
include nutritional consultations, a
private healing session, detox massages,
Jalan Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget
Phone: 733 398
HEAVENLY SPA BY WESTIN
Heavenly Spa by Westin has just launched
one of Asia’s few dedicated kids spas.
Parents can enjoy some well-deserved
pampering in the brand new spa, while
the little ones are being treated to a mini
pamper in the Westin Kid’s Spa by the
beach and then have heaps of fun at the
resort’s Westin Kids Club.
personal indulgence, is a nature-inspired
sanctuary offering a nurturing menu that
combines traditional spa services and
healing practices with holistic programs for
body, mind and spirit rejuvenation. There
are also separate thermal facilities for male
and female, each featuring a hydro-pool,
salt wall sauna and steam room.!
Heavenly Spa by Westin, which was
launched end of last year for unparalleled
Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, BTDC Lot
N-3, Nusa Dua • Phone: 771 906
82
SHOPPING
GOD
FROM THE MACHINE
PHOTOS COURTESY OF DEUS EX MACHINA
D
Deus ex Machina (god from the machine) roared into Australia’s cultural
consciousness in 2006, with some neatly customized motorcycles and
a quaint notion that doing something is more fun than just owning
something. Deus ex Machina is a step bigger than a brand: it’s a culture.
The brand’s openness and enthusiasm strike a chord with people,
wherever they are... Deus (“day-us”) didn’t set out only to sell custom
parts and hand- built motorcycles, but to celebrate a culture of creativity.
The Deus philosophy recalls an era before the various pursuits of fun –
motorcycling, surfing, skateboarding, whatever – were marketed into
fundamentalist factions.
Custom motorcycles are at the core of the Deus philosophy. While
focusing on the design and construction of bespoke custom motorcycles,
Deus also promotes and celebrates a custom motorcycle culture that
first appeared in Europe and America in the 1940s, a culture of pure
enthusiasm born of the desire to turn the humble motorcycle into the
ultimate expression of applied art. Workshops are located in Sydney,
Bali, LA and Milan.!
Jalan Batu Mejan 8, Canggu
Phone: 368 3395
84
TIGER DOG
IDR 120,000,000
Engine
Honda Tiger 250cc
Specification
Custom Alloy Tank
Hurricane hand grip and hand bar
Hand made alloy fender front and rear
Yamaha YZ 250 tromol front
Yamaha TW 225 custom tromol rear
Yamaha Byson front shock
Bridgestone tire
Emgo speedometer
Yamaha Vega ZR front brake
Kawasaki KLX 150 rear brake
Yamaha F1ZR custom exhaust
Replica Harley 5’5 chrome head lamp
Emgo Japan winter sign lamp
SHOPPING
SILVER STREAK
IDR 120,000,000
Engine
Yamaha Scorpio SSX 225
Specification
Vantura hand bar
TK japan black rim
Posh japan tail light
Custom exhaust
Custom leather seat
Posh japan speedometer and switch
Custom alloy tank
KNN air filte
Deli tire SB 117 120-80/18’
Firestone 400-18 rear tire
Hurricane hand grip
Replica HD 5’5 head lamp
DEUS SANTALUM
BOOT
IDR 1,600,000
86
DEUS CUSTOM
SINGLE SPEED
SPECIAL FIXIE BIKE
IDR 20,000,000
Frame
Customs deus special italy frame
Wheels
Leaf cycle rims set (front-rear) 32H
Stem
Nittotechtomic 22,7mm
Handle bar
Nitto bar 22,7mm
Saddle
San marco concord
Crank
Miche 48T, BCD 144, Length165mm
Pedal/strap
Welgo / toshi single strap
Tyre
Gatorskin.
Bottom-bracket
Miche 110m
Headset
Miche
Brakeset
Shimano
Seatpost
Micheprimato 22,7mm
DEUS CANVAS
RUGSACK
IDR 1,900,000
SHOPPING
HOME PAMPERING
If luxurious spa treatments have been a part of your stay in Bali, you may
find yourself wanting to recreate the experience at home. From scented
candles to classic and timeless fragrances to rejuvenating skin formulas,
these items below will make you feel like you’re being pampered in a
lavish spa.
MARIANNE GUEDIN CANDLES
The luxurious candle line from Marianne Guedin features
hand-blown glass vessels, hand-run natural French wax,
and beautiful packaging. Each candle is inspired by Guedin’s
memories and features an intoxicating blend of fragrances.
The beautiful glasses can be reused as candles and each are
totally unique, thanks to the time honored glass blowing
technique.
ACQUA DI PARMA COLONIA ESSENZA
The world of Colonia has been developed around the structure
of the original creation of 1916, with the Colonia classic serves
as the inspiration for new, harmonious variations such as the
Colonia Essenza. The mythical perfume evolves, becomes
richer, and is completed through the perfect interpretation of
a sole theme - the true, inimitable, unique La Colonia Italiana.
KIEHL’S MICRO-BLUR
SKIN PERFECTOR
The newest multi-benefit
formula from Kiehl’s, the
Micro-Blur Skin Perfector is
a lightweight skin formula
that provides an immediate
blurring effect and visible
improvement of pores and
skin texture over time.!
Kuta Beachwalk, First Floor A-11 • www.glowlivingbeauty.com
88
DINING
EDITOR’S
CHOICE
JUNE 2014
SWANKY
JU-MA-NA
TEXT BY NAMHAR HERNANTO PHOTO COURTESY OF JU-MA-NA
“Stylish and über-chic, Ju-Ma-Na at the Banyan Tree Ungasan enlivens
my taste buds with its avant-garde menu that comprises fine ingredients
and distinctive flavors. The immaculate fine dining cliff-top restaurant —
complete with a stylish shisha bar, lounge, and an exceptional wine cellar
— is intended to create an unparalleled gourmet experience in an ultraglamorous setting.”
90
I
I clearly remember my first visit to Ju-Ma-Na years ago, when, as I stepped into it, I was
immediately bowled over by the restaurant’s chic ambience. Today, the restaurant still amazes
me, especially with its cliff’s edge location that privileges patrons with a dramatic view of the
Indian Ocean and dusking sky with its degrading colors of pinks and oranges as the sun sets in
the horizon.
Meaning “white pearl” in Arabic, Ju-Ma-Na is shaped like a rounded pearl with white interiors
and exteriors dominating the restaurant’s décor. It’s a fine restaurant indeed, but Ju-Ma-Na also
makes for an excellent chill-out venue for watching the sunset while enjoying the numerous
mixes of cocktails on offer.
I am always impressed at the genuine amicability of the staff – in keeping with their Balinese
values – but also their polished and highly efficient service. As a prelude to my meal, I’m invited
to wash my hands in a beautiful golden bowl filled with rose-scented water. It is indeed a lovely
little cleansing ceremony.
The menu exudes excellence, with its feast of delectable fresh seafood with an Asian twist.
The chefs at Ju-Ma-Na pride themselves on using only the freshest ingredients to create
a contemporary fine dining menu. The “Butter Poached Rock Lobster” (corn agnolotti, baby
vegetables, edamame, lobster veloute) is a definite delight for any seafood lover. Red meat options
such as the “Wagyu No.9 Duo” (syrah braised short ribs, grilled strip loin, comté potatoes, glazed
roots vegetables, red wine sauce) is an art on a plate — it tastes as great as it is presented.!
Ju-Ma-Na at Banyan Tree Ungasan
Jalan Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan
Phone: 300 7000
91
DINING
A DAY
WITH THE CHEF
W
Who doesn’t love going out for a fancy meal? Making reservations,
dressing up nice and enjoying an incredible meal prepared by a
talented chef - dinner out can be a real feast for the senses. And
while on holiday, trying a new dish at a nice local restaurant is
one experience, but actually learning how to make it is an entirely
different one. Now this is the kind of souvenir we like; one that
doesn’t take up space in your carry-on and that you can enjoy over
and over again!
As a dining institution, Mozaic has enjoyed international praise for
its outstanding, innovative French cuisine laced with Indonesian
flavors - Mozaic is the only restaurant in Southeast Asia selected
by Traditions & Qualité as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde
(Great Tables of the World) and to have its wine list awarded
year after year by Wine Spectator. And taking its fine reputation
from Ubud down to the beach of Batu Belig, Mozaic Beachclub is
buzzing with life, especially during its cooking classes.
The celebrated Chef James Ephraim has fashioned a program that
is designed to teach you a few kitchen tricks, the art of discovering
the freshest Balinese ingredients and applying the philosophy
92
of Mozaic through modern cooking techniques; all while you
luxuriate in the beautiful setting of Mozaic Beachclub. But don’t
worry if you can’t find the ingredients at home, for Chef James
will share the substitutes familiar to your country, and, most
importantly, how to adapt the cooking techniques in your own
kitchen.
The four-hour cooking class starts at 9am on Mozaic Beachclub’s
deck, overlooking the ocean, where you will be briefed about the
menu (appetizer, main, dessert). You will then be guided for a
kitchen tour before finally getting down and dirty with the real
business: cooking! Of course, food is all about satisfying your
senses; hence the importance of presentation as it is equally
essential to feast your eyes. Presentation techniques in this class
will definitely take your food creation to the next level.
Signing up for this cooking class will give a tick in every box for a
wonderful, memorable holiday in Bali.!
To make your reservation, contact:
Mozaic Beachclub
Jalan Pantai Batu Belig, Kerobokan
Phone: +62 361 473 5796
Email: [email protected]
Chef James Ephraim
A native of England, Chef James Ephraim started
his culinary stint as a sous-chef with the highly
praised Grosvenor Hotel.
This famous venue
introduced Chef Ephraim to exclusive events with
regular appearances at the Estate of the Duke
of Westminster. Leaving his native England for
extraordinary experiences in the South Pacific and
Australasia, Chef Ephraim was part of the opening
team of Bracu Restaurant in New Zealand as chef
de cuisine, and extended his stay down-under
thereafter at Lizard Island Barrier Reef Resort.
During culinary discovery holidays, Chef Ephraim
completed a stage at Mugaritz in Spain, The Saint
James in Bordeaux and culinary experiences
throughout Asia. Embracing the philosophy of Chef
Chris Salans in the use of Bali’s freshest ingredients,
Chef Ephraim has been a key asset in creating the
modern Mozaic Balinese Cuisine which has been
presented at the famed Ubud Mozaic Restaurant
Gastronomique in the last few years.
DINING
FAT CHOW
COZY IN THE ALLEY
I
In between the rows of souvenir shops, small hotels and home
stays that line Poppies lane II, a famous road that runs up
from Kuta beach, Fat Chow stands out amongst its neighbors.
This little restaurant is open to the street, showcasing its
attractive interior; a chic yet retro Hong Kong style that
brings ‘oriental Chicago loft’ to mind.
Damien, the young gentleman who is both the owner and chef,
envisioned a restaurant that brings Asian comfort food to the
mouths of its visitors. Some of the dishes here are based on
those we may easily find on the streets of Indonesia, Thailand,
Vietnam, Hong Kong and other Asia countries. His love for
comfort foods and his constantly creative mind lead to the
birth of the fusion choices found on the menu, such as the
soft and spicy Chick In Pandan Leaf and savory Tokyo Prawn.
94
Their Tom Yum was love at first taste - an explosion of sour
and spicy flavours. This hot soup comes in generous portion
too. Their Oriental Burger is for those who love a taste of
something homemade. A great balance portion of veggies
and meat is placed between the soft sesame buns, and unlike
your ordinary burger, it is served with a side of crispy wonton
instead of French fries.
Don’t feel like having anything too heavy? I found their ‘Try
Them All’ choice on their ‘bites to share’ menu, small tasters
of chosen dishes. I suggest a combination of Chick In Pandan
Leaves, Chicken Wings triple cooked, Tokyo Prawn, and Pork on
Fire. That combination takes you on a mini ‘mouth-journey’
around Asia. I then wrapped-up my cozy moment at Fat
Chow with a fresh kick of Bruce Lee Berry, one of their freshly
made juices.!
Jalan Pantai Kuta, Kuta • Phone:+62 361 753516
g
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,QWHQVR
by
FINEST QUALITY COFFEE BEANS
FROM THE HIGHLANDS OF INDONESIA
FULL OF FLAVOUR BODY AND AROMA
MEDIUM TO DARK ROAST
Contact: [email protected]
DINING
WARISAN’S
NEW HAUTE CUISINE
A
As haute couture for cuisines, quite a number of restaurants on the
island such as Warisan represent the very best in quality, innovation,
technique and presentation; what goes into each dish is more than food.
And so for food enthusiasts, Warisan is not something to be taken lightly
as the restaurant represents the definition of its culture, based on the
newfound pleasure of conviviality, the hunt and curiosity for new tastes.
Warisan, which means “heritage” in Indonesian, has been serving
western dishes to its loyal patrons for more than 20 years now. Following
a major re-modeling, Warisan Restaurant has opened its doors to an
even more sumptuous and memorable experience. The restaurant’s new
German chef, Jörg Kocher, has created an exciting new menu to delight
the most demanding taste. He and his kitchen team are sure to please
and impress with their culinary creations, polished service and attention
to detail.
“Fresh” is probably the only word Kocher has in his culinary dictionary.
With 28 years of cooking experience around the world, Kocher knows
his way around the kitchen to create scrumptious balanced dishes only
from freshest produce. The new items now listed in Warisan’s haute
cuisine such as “Salmon Confit” (with potato-herb pure, tomatoes, and
olives) and “Lamb Chop with Spice Crust” (served with potato parmesan
dumplings and artichokes) are garnering popularity and labeled as the
restaurant’s new signature dishes.
Food connoisseurs and celebrities such as Michelle Yeoh, Ashanti,
Yoko Ono and Grace Jones have found their way to the restaurant for a
memorable dining experience. With a lush courtyard under the fragrant
frangipani trees, Warisan serves its magic at its best.
Jalan Raya Kerobokan No. 38, Br. Taman, Kerobokan
Phone: 73 1175
96
P A T I S S E R I E
&
C A F E
KUTA | JI. Raya Kuta No. 65 Br. Abianbase Kuta 80361 Bali Indonesia | T +62 (0)361 755149 | F +62 (0)361 767340
DENPASAR | JI. Hayam Wuruk No. 181 Tanjung Bungkak Denpasar 80235 Bali Indonesia | T +62 (0)361 243147/8 | F +62 (0)361 243145
SEMINYAK | JI. Kayu Jati No. 1 Seminyak Square Seminyak 80361 Bali Indonesia | T +62 (0)361 738033
coming soon in SANUR
E [email protected]
Visit us at www.balibakery.com
DINING
UBUD
INSTITUTIONS ...
TEXT BY AYU SEKAR
“Everyone comes to Ubud for at least a day, to see what Bali used to be like and its
always a memorable day, a bit of an adventure. While restaurants abound, and with
great new eateries popping up almost every week there are several old favourites,
which you just have to try.”
98
T
Top of everyone’s list is Ibu Oka Restaurant opposite the
Palace on Jl Suweta. This just keeps getting more popular
as swarms of Chinese visitors, Indonesians from Jakarta,
Surabaya and Medan come to delight in Oka’s pork. It is
almost mandatory in Japanese guidebooks and Australians
remember it from the good old days.
Recently the main restaurant opposite the Palace has
undergone a renovation, making it look more like a
restaurant and much less like an exotic “old Bali” kind of
place. Now guests sit at tables and chairs, not on the floor
and the succulent roasted pig has been shifted out to the
kitchen at the back. A sign of the times!
Now Ibu Oka has opened a new restaurant at the back
of her family compound. Looking onto a river valley, it is
surrounded by trees and greenery in a large open space.
Beneath the restaurant is the traditional kitchen where
most of the work is done.
Each morning starting around 4am, the pigs are
slaughtered and cleaned, stuffed with the spicy bumbu
and set to cook at their own fireplace. To cook the pigs,
coffee wood is used, with the smoke imparting an extra
richness to the meat.
While quality has never been compromised, the taste
that you get at this famous institution is a little less
flavoursome than it used to be. Spices and flavor have
been reduced to cater to tourist’s palates. What a shame.
But for an excellent plate of succulent roasted pork, it is
still the place to go. You can always add some sambal.
Order a cold Bintang beer or a lovely, fresh orange juice
to go with the meal and sit watching other tables waiting
anxiously for their own delicious plates to be served.
Those wishing for an even more authentic babi guling
should head to one of the smaller warungs that abound on
Ubud’s outskirts, or for the brave, head to the downstairs
produce area in Ubud Market and try Wayan’s sublime
roasted pork complete with the full compliment of spices.
She uses only small Balinese black pigs and the taste is
incredible.
You can watch the market at its busiest while indulging
(or buy a takeaway packet and bring to your hotel) and see
a slice of the Bali that many tourists miss. Its fun and a
great meeting place for local artists and wanderers.
There is no need to book at any of these local restaurants
where you can be assured a great meal.!
WANA is the first of its kind in Bali, a restaurant set within a tropical rainforest.
Experience exploring the wild, while sampling exotic South East Asian cuisine and
sipping seductive cocktails without having to travel to the jungle.
Open daily from 09:00 a.m - 10:00 p.m.
www.wanarestaurant.com
WANA RESTAURANT.LOUNGE.BAR
@WANA_RESTAURANT
BALI ZOO Jl. Raya Singapadu, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali
0361 294357
*No admission ticket to the Zoo is required when dining at Wana
DINING
FOOD WITH
A VIEW
TEXT & PHOTO BY AYU SEKAR
“There is one trip to make whilst in Bali that even
the most jaded must surely make!“
100
T
The huge volcanic caldera of Kintamani / Mt Batur is a
delight on so many levels. The cool humidity free air is a
great start and the myriad walks in the area make it even
better. Some like to climb up Mt Batur, starting well before
dawn around 2am, to make sure they reach the peak in
time to see the first rays of the sun sneaking over the still
darkened vast landscape.
Other walks involve traversing soft leaf covered trails that
lead to the nearby Mt Abang, about three hours away. Hot
springs by the vast Lake Batur are the place to soak away
any aches and pains incurred earlier in the day. Sunset, as
the first chill starts to hit, is the best time to submerge the
body into one of the steaming pools.
For the less active, sitting on one of the delightful balconies
of the Lakeview hotel watching the mountain and clouds
is just as delightful.
Everyone needs to eat while there and there are afew
options. Most folk stop for and ersatz lunch at one of the
tourist places with a view. The Lakeview also offers lunch
but their lunch comes with a variety of fresh salads, some
with edible flowers as sates, soups and generally very
good fare.
Kadek Krishna Adidarma, the charismatic man in charge
at Lakeview has brought up the standards of food to new
levels. He has introduced lots of new organic dishes and
is always working to improve the standards. Overnights
or longer stays are also available in the hotel where all
rooms come with a view.
Those who wish organic could try the Sari Organic
Restaurant offshoot in the main road which also comes
with a view.!
Lakeview Hotel
Jl. Raya Penelokan, Kintamani
T: 0877 6244 7177
Sari Organik, Kintamani
T: 0361 879 6029
E: [email protected]
PADMA RESORT BALI
DINING
MORE
INTERNATIONAL
RECOGNITION FOR
HATTEN WINES
Hatten Wines’ Jepun Spakling Rosé,
methodic hampenoise, has won
a silver medal at Le Mondial du
Roséin Cannes last month. Results
were published online on May 5th
confirming the Balinese winemaker
surpasses
all
expectations
by
winning a silver distinction in
a French competition. For
its 20th anniversary events
and celebration activities,
Hatten Wines entered the
Jepun Sparkling Rosé in the
French competition in April.
The bottles of Jepun Spakling
Rosé will soon be proudly wearing
the medal, alongside with the Rosé
wine and the Alexandria’s gold
medals from CWSA 2013.!
APPOINTS NEW JAPANESE CHEF
FOR TENKAI
With its ongoing development and continuous effort to deliver
quality products and services, Padma Resort Bali at Legian has
appointed Masahiko Morikawa to take charge in the kitchen
of their Tenkai Japanese restaurant. Morikawa began his
culinary career back in 1986 and perfected his skills at a famous
restaurant in Nagoya. He later joined Okura, a leading Japanese
hotel brand, to assume the role of assistant chef in 1994.
Leaving Japan, Chef Masahiko then worked for Wasabi Bistro
at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. This
was followed by an appointment as executive chef at the same
restaurant for the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Singapore.!
Jalan Padma No.1, Legian • Phone: 752 111
The Cellardoor
Jalan Bypass Ngurah Rai (Simpang
Siur), Kuta
Phone: 767 422
STEPHANE SIMONDS STEPS IN
TO CIRE’S KITCHEN
SINGLE MALT WHISKIES &
COCKTAIL BAR OPENS ON OBEROI
Bringing Cire’s new culinary concept to life is recently appointed
Executive Chef Stephane Simond. Originally from France,
Chef Stephane began his career with an apprenticeship in a
Michelin-starred restaurant in his hometown in the Alps. You
can now experience the future of fine dining at Cire restaurant
with the unveiling of a fresh new dining concept focused on
healthy, sustainable and locally sourced produce. The menu is
created completely from local produce sourced from Indonesia,
predominantly from Bali, that is as organic and sustainable as
possible.!
Single Malt is an extension of Meja Kitchen, the restaurant
tucked beneath the IZE Hotel Seminyak. It offers a mix of
seating areas including booths for two or four, high leather
bar chairs and an outdoor-balcony area that can seat up to 20
people. Unlike any other bars, Single Malt, as its name hints,
has one of the most extensive whiskey lists in Bali with over 50
bottles of rare whiskies from as far as India, Japan and Sweden.
Jalan Belimbing Sari Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu
Phone: 848 2166
The cocktail list, with a wide selection of standards, introduces
some new whisky based cocktails recipes created by their
talented mixologists. They aim to engage both ladies and men
alike and introduce them into wonderful world of whiskey. Open
on Tuesday to Sunday from 6pm to 2am the bar captures the city
crowd during the week offering special themed nights, complete
with a range of music all in an elegant lounge atmosphere.!
Jalan Kayu Aya (Oberoi) No. 68 • Phone: 846 6997
102
DIM SUM AT MAMA SAN
A selection of Dim Sum dumplings are now popping up on the Mama
San menu, and are also available at the upstairs bar area from 6pm 11pm, Monday through Saturday. Treats like the lamb and pumpkin
potstickers with chilli oil and black vinegar have become a firm
favorite as well as the La lot Vietnamese grilled mince pork belly
wrapped in betel leaves with nouccham dressing.!
Jalan Raya Kerobokan No. 135 • Phone: 730 436
CHINESE BUFFET DINNER
AT TEPAN NOODLE
RESTAURANT
Known as a dining spot where you can savor Japanese
delights like teppanyaki, sushi and sashimi, the Tepan Noodle
Restaurant at Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel now introduces a
Chinese Buffet Dinner every Wednesday. You can experience the
restaurant’s extensive Chinese menu that features traditional
delicacies alongside popular dishes that cater for a wider range
of taste buds.!
Jalan Kartika Plaza, Kuta • Phone: 751 067
TEPPANYAKI EXPERIENCE AT
MAYA SARI ASIATIQUE
Stemming from Maya Ubud’s desire to create a memorable and
distinguished epicure experience, Maya Sari Asiatique, Maya
Ubud’s Asian-style signature restaurant offers a distinctively
different atmosphere for those looking to be impressed with
best dining option, the authentic Teppanyaki. Offering only
the freshest seafood and prime cuts with a signature mix of
specialty sauces and alcohol to create robust flavors, the flambé
dishes are whipped up right before your eyes.
With an open setting of courtyard fountains and gardens, Maya
Sari Asiatique allows you to dine with your partner or friends at
a comfortable and relaxing pace while being entertained by the
expert chef’s entertaining cooking style. Every Tuesday the special
menu “Maya’s Indo-Teppan Grill” is available, offering a gourmet
selection of Indonesian inspired dishes freshly cooked on the
teppan hot plate. Dishes range from spiced fish cooked in a banana
leaf, deep sea prawns with soya glaze, marinated chicken satays,
succulent prime Angus beef, and favorite nasi goreng.
ONE ELEVEN’S SEXY
BREAKFAST
Guests at One Eleven are invited to enjoy a very sexy breakfast
in any way they wish: perhaps still tucked under their soft,
Egyptian cotton duvet and goose down pillows, or perhaps
during a lazy sprawl on the manicured lawn in pajamas or
perhaps during a ‘cheeky dip’ in the villa’s private pool. At this
luxury abode, rules do not exist, as to how you are served.
Resident Chef Wayan and his team are known for the
generosity of their servings and their attention to visual
presentation. After all, a good host always shares in abundance.
The Daily Breakfast Table includes a spread of pastries and
a selection of freshly baked breads and croissants, assorted
flavored yoghurts, a choice of cereal, local fruit platter with
an accompanying pitcher of choice fresh juices, whilst not
neglecting the preferred blend of Nespresso coffee and for the
queen of the villa, her selection of TWG tea.!
Jalan Pangkung Sari No.3, Seminyak • Phone: 731 343
Jalan Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud • Phone: 977 888
103
DINING
THE FIRST
TIME
TEXT & PHOTOS BY CHAINE DES ROTISSEURS
104
“Everyone remembers a first time. And so it will be for the lucky 34 Chaine des Rotisseurs
members and guests who travelled from Indonesia, Singapore and across Australia to attend
the inaugural Bali Outre-Mer event held in Margaret River, south Western Australia. Whilst
this was a first time outing for the nascent Chaine chapter, such was the outstanding success
of this 3-day sojourn that this writer imagines future events will all be over-subscribed.”
T
The festivities began on Friday evening of 2 May 2014 with guests
enjoying drinks and canapés at a “Welcome to Western Australia”
sundowner at the iconic Matilda Bay restaurant on the Perth
foreshore. As the sun set on the beautiful Swan River, the Perth
lights twinkled and international guests mingled with local Perth
Chaine members.
Saturday morning, 3 May 2014, saw the excited guests transferred
by coach from our hotels to the magical Margaret River region,
a pleasant three-hour journey through the beautiful South West
region of Western Australia. At Cullen Winery, we were given an
exclusive insight into the organic, sustainable philosophy of Cullen
and how this philosophy translated into their red and white wines
including their standout Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon and
Kevin John Chardonnay.
As is tradition at Chaine, the Gala Dinner began with all guests
resplendent in black tie and gowns ready to be spoiled. We
arrived at Vasse Felix, the oldest winery in the Margaret River
region. Remember, Australia is a very young country when
comparing with other wine regions of the world. To those not
familiar with Australian wines and the Margaret River region,
it is important to remember that the Margaret River Cabernet
Sauvignon, Chardonnay and the Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends
are recognised as the some of the best in the world.
Sunday morning, 4 May 2014, and our intrepid party were once
again on our comfortable coach, kangaroo spotting, as we were
driven to the boutique family winery, Woodlands Wines. Our
host on this beautiful morning was the son of the original owner,
Andrew Walton who delighted his audience with an exclusive tour
of the winery with an explanation as to how their wines were
made with a vibrating hopper rather than screwing the grapes.
The next winery to receive us with a delightful lunch was the nonconformist Arimia. Chief Winemaker Cameron Haskell, believes
“Grapes are a great documenter of time and place” and therefore,
“we like to make wine that works with food and is versatile”.
Arimia’s 12 wines cover everything from Blanc de Blanc to Petit
Verdot, Mourvedre and Zinfandel.!
If you are interested in further information about the
Chaine des Rotissuers you can check the website www.
chainedesrotisseurs.com or contact Thurston Saulsman
[email protected].
Vasse Felix winery : www.vassefelix.com.au
Woodlands Wines winery: www.woodlandswines.com.au
Arimia winery : www.arimia.com.au
105
MY INNER VOICE
REASONS
FOR BECOMING
A SOMMELIER
T
and children, or find time to sit and read. Furthermore, a
sommelier is always on his feet, moving from table to table, to
the wine cellar, therefore it’s important we stay in good shape.
So the important thing to remember here is that when you’re
drinking and eating, never overdo it.
The decision to become a sommelier is something that must
be thought about over and over. To be a part of this palatepleasuring business, you must remember that the rules are
strict and you must know and recite a wine’s past time and
time again. As a sommelier myself, I will tell you about the
enjoyment of working in the world of wine.
For me, the joy of being a sommelier comes from the many
situations in which my job places me. I find myself immersed
within a world comprised of Drinkers, Eaters, Thinkers,
Talkers and Writers, wherein I too must be a unique and active
participant.
As we are advised to consume at least two to three litres a day
to stay healthy, the Drinker in me believes that at least one
of these litres could and should be of a substance that tastes
better than just plain water. To drink wine is the opportunity
to test one’s own palate and to develop the skill of your taste
buds again and again. The varieties of wine found around the
world have never been better than today. Winemakers are
constantly innovating in order to find new, exciting blends
and components. So the real joy of drinking wine everyday
is that with it’s many varieties it is never boring. Even upon
tasting a once-tasted wine, its familiar flavour can bring me
back to a memory, not dissimilar to the episode of “the little
madeliene” bringing back an “essence of the past” in Marcel
Proust’s Remembrance of Things Past.
Eaters are those with the same mentality as drinkers but
the difference being they focus on food. However, once
these Eaters find out that all kinds of dishes certainly taste
better when paired with the right wine, they reach a whole
new level of pleasure. Eating and drinking are two of life’s
greatest pleasures, but the joy for me is to be able to leave
the restaurant and still have a conversation with my wife
I am also a Thinker, because without thinking in my job
many tables would be left without food or wine! Most of
my thinking goes into pairing a wine with a dish; I strive to
find the perfect couple. It is always a great feeling when a
guest compliments the ‘harmony’ of their food and wine. As
a Thinker and sommelier, planning becomes a big part of my
life. I must make plans for the next wine trip, to renew the
wine list, to train my assistants and to stay one step ahead in
all preparations. To think, plan and being ahead of the game is
crucial and brings me great pride in my work.
Talking or speaking is to be human. It is innate, so central
to life and therefore if it must be done it should sound nice,
polite, sophisticated and personal. The weapons of war can be
less dangerous than harshly spoken words, so I endeavor to
always speak kindly. The same goes when speaking of food and
drink, the words must be gentle and elegant. My favourite way
of describing wine is to use words that would also compliment
a woman. If, for example, I would say something like, “this
wine is like a woman, she is 28 years old and is the Queen of
her village in Bora Bora”, I mean to say that the wine is very
new and you, my guest, have never drunken such a beauty.
I have always considered myself to be a bit of a writer. I like
to write not only to preserve the beauty of thoughts in the
written word, but also to clear the mind for future thoughts.
My passion as a sommelier is my ability to make wine menus
and also infuse beautiful wine lyrics into them. Being a writer
and a sommelier therefore makes my work unique. Outside of
work however, my mind is filled with many stories to write
down and preserve for my sons.
I love my job as a sommelier. I love it like a farmer loves the
soil; like a musician loves their instrument or an artist loves
an empty canvas.!
Harald Wiesmann, Restaurant Manager of the Asian inspired Haute Cuisine
Kayuputi and Chief Sommelier at The St. Regis Bali Resort, has a very interesting
career history spanning a number of years with different roles in various countries.
His 41 years of international experience has led Kayuputi to receive prestigious
awards from the Wine Spectator Magazine (USA) for four consecutive years
since its opening five years ago. While for the first two years the restaurant was
awarded “Award of Excellence,” these last three years Kayuputi has been honoured
with “Best of Award of Excellence,” making it the first and only restaurant in the
whole of Indonesia to win this coveted award for the third time. Just recently, the
fine restaurant received “Award of Travelers’ Choice for Travelers’ Favorite Fine
Dining Restaurants in Indonesia” and 2nd place for “Travelers’ Favorite Fine Dining
Restaurants in Asia” from Trip Advisor.
107
NIGHTLIFE
EDITOR’S
CHOICE
JUNE 2014
TROPICAL
SOPHISTICATION
TEXT BY NAMHAR HERNANTO PHOTO COURTESY OF KU DE TA
108
K
KU DE TA has established itself as the landmark
beachfront venue for ultimate parties, large
celebrations, and always lives up to its
reputation as a Seminyak party playground
for the stylish, jet setter residents and visitors
alike.
As glorious warm weather descends in Bali,
residents and visitors alike tend to head for
the island’s many scenic sundowner spots.
Let’s face it, there’s little that’s more satisfying
at the end of a frantic day than sipping on a
colorful, cool concoction while a magnificent
sunset vista unravels before you. With cozy
corners built for ease of conversation, relaxed
lounge areas and quality food and drink
offerings, KU DE TA is a perfect place to spend
long afternoons.
The trendy beachfront venue is indeed ideal
for a refreshing cocktail while admiring the
magical sunset; but as the moon rises and
temperature cools down, KU DE TA gets
hot. KU DE TA was the first to revolutionize
the nightlife and entertainment scene in
Bali, particularly in Seminyak. The venue’s
legendary parties such as the “White Party”
and “Bikini Party” continue to rock the island.
More than a decade has passed since KU DE
TA first announced its arrival back in 2000 and
the legacy of one of Asia’s most distinctive
and beloved lifestyle destination icons
continues to go from strength to strength.
The uniquely gracious and hospitable spirit
of the Balinese and the stunning world-class
Seminyak beachfront location of KU DE TA
are at the very foundation of what makes the
venue so magical, but it’s the reputation KU
DE TA has fostered for cutting edge design
and architecture and the roster of big name
international performers that consider
the place a tropical home-from-home that
maintains the vibe and popularity of one of
Bali’s most revered lifestyle icons.
Right on the beach and chic with cheek,
KU DE TA is a tropical sophistication.
Jalan Kayu Aya No. 9, Seminyak
Phone: 73 6969
109
NIGHTLIFE
COCKTAILS TO
PARTIES
From the best upscale weeknight cocktail
parties to the biggest weekend celebrity
events, these clubs and bars are your ticket to
the amazing nightlife on the island.
1
3
2
4
5
1. POTATO HEAD BEACH CLUB This club is certainly an attraction in itself. Exclusively designed with impressive sky-high and geometric
façade, the crazy parties that kick off after dark at the club are a tribute to the club’s expansive bar, resident DJs and whopping sound
system. If you’re not feeling suitably dressed on your arrival, Potato Head also has its own on-site boutique. Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak
• Phone: 473 7979 | 2. UNIQUE ROOFTOP BAR UNIQUE is perhaps the only Bali in bar that will bring you both sunset and sunrise views
– if you stay up late enough! Designed around a central swimming pool with oversized lounges, sofa beds and a mezzanine for guests
seeking a more intimate experience, this breathtaking roof-top Bali bar exudes an ultra-glam yet relaxed club atmosphere. UNIQUE at
Rimba Jimbaran • Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran • Phone: 846 8468 | 3. RYOSHI SEMINYAK For people who appreciate excellent
live jazz music, Ryoshi provides the perfect place to kick up your heels. A busy night in Ryoshi, such as on a Monday, the dining scene is
literally buzzing with energy. Another thing buzzing about the venue is the monthly Bali Comedy Club live standup show when patrons
can have the chance to laugh themselves silly. Jalan Raya Seminyak 15, Seminyak • Phone: 731 152 | 4. THE 101 ROOFTOP Jl.Legian’s first
sunset cocktail bar can be found at The 101 Rooftop at The 101 Legian Hotel, Bali. It has become an amazing place to unwind; playing
chilled out music out under the stars whilst the beach breeze blows through your hair. The ambience found at this rooftop hotspot
adds a new light to the Legian party scene. Jalan Legian no. 117, Kuta • Phone: 3001 101 | 5. JIM’BAR’N ROOFTOP BAR This HARRIS Bukit
Jimbaran venue offers party atmosphere with wonderful views over Jimbaran Bay. Serving as the perfect place to de-stress and enjoy
the night air, tied with their unique cocktail innovations, Jim’BAR’n is gaining a good reputation amongst the hippest partygoers on the
island. Jalan Raya Uluwatu 2000X, Jimbaran • Phone: 846 8777!
110
SECRET BALI
112
REJANG
A DANCE OF MANY GUISES
TEXT & PHOTOS BY AYU SEKAR
“The slow and stately Rejang
dance is one of Bali’s special
dances. Its attractions lie
not so much in the intricate
movements, a la Legong, but
more in the extraordinary
accoutrements, in particular, the
headdresses used. The dress is
always graceful and elegant with
the torso wrapped tightly in
gold brocaded bands while long
sashes of red or yellow are used
as part of the performance.”
113
SECRET BALI
T
The dance is always performed in the inner courtyard at temple ceremonies, so that only the privileged
may see. It is a sacral dance performed for the gods.
Each area, or even each banjar, has its own specific designs, some so intricate, that each takes days
to make. Flowers are folded and moulded, tamed into unique shapes that are put together to create
spectacular forms. Buds are added to create more form. Add shaky gold coated flower decorations; mini
crowns with brightly coloured jewels and you have a headdress fit for a princess.
The dance itself is slow and stately, performed with grace and delicacy, which while it appears to require
little technical skill, is full of subtleties that only a seasoned observer will notice. It always appears
entrancing and regal. To sit in a temple ground and watch the beautiful young and heavily bedecked girls
emerge in their finery, always creates a thrill.
Some of the best dances are performed in remote areas where they have kept hold of ancient traditions.
Asak near Bug Bug is one of these places, Tengganan near Candidasa and both are Bali Aga Villages.
Batuan and Bungaya are also reputed to have fabulous Rejang performances for those who like it.
Somebody told me once, that in the days of yore, the last dancer in the line would be kept for sacrifice,
but this is a legend that most others have denied vehemently. Whichever, it all adds to the mystique of
the Rejang.
The costumes are so extraordinary that they lure photographers from all over the island, creating a hot
house sort of camera club climate, but it is always fun and adds to the atmosphere.!
114
115
ESSENTIAL NUMBERS
EMERGENCIES
Airport Information
935 1011 - ext. 5123
Ambulance : 118
Fire Department : 113
PLN (Electricy) : 123
Ubud Clinic
Jl. Raya Campuhan No. 36, Ubud
P. 974 911
CONSULATES
Australia (Incl. Canada & New Zealand )
Jl. Tantular 32, Renon, Denpasar
P. 241 118
www.dfat.gov.au
Police : 110
Search & Rescue
111 / 115 / 151
Bali Tourism Office
Jl. S. Parman, Renon, Denpasar
P. 222 387
Central Post Office
Jl. Raya Puputan, Denpasar
P. 223 566
Brazil (Honorary Consulate )
Jl. Kayu Aya 20c, Seminyak
P. 844 6530
Emergency: 0818 344 928
Chile (Honorary Consulate )
Jl. Pengembak Gg. 1/3 , Sanur
P. 756 781
www.echileindo.or.id
Czech Republic (Honorary Consulate )
Jl. Pengembak 17 , Sanur
P. 286 465
HOSPITALS
Bali International Medical Center (BIMC)
Hospitals
Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta
P. 761 263
Kawasan BTDC Block D, Nusa Dua
P. 3000 911
www.bimcbali.com
Denmark (Honorary Consulate )
Ruko Sunset Indah No. 1, Kav. 3
Jl. Sunset Road No. 89, Kuta
P. 821 6979
France (Consular Agency )
Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 1, Sanur
P. 285 485
International SOS
Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 505X, Kuta
P. 710 505
www.internationalsos.com
Germany (Honorary Consulate )
Jl. Pantai Karang No. 17, Sanur
P. 288 535
Kasih Ibu Hospital
Jl. Teuku Umar 120, Denpasar
P. 223 036
www.kasihibu.co.id
Hungary (Honorary Consulate )
Marintur - Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219 Sanur
P. 287 701
Nusa Dua Medical Service
Grand Hyatt Hotel, Nusa Dua
P. 772 392 / 771 118
Italy (Vice Consulato )
Lotus Enterprise Building,
Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran
P. 701 005
Sanglah Public Hospital
Jl. Diponegoro, Denpasar
P. 227 911
www.sanglahhospitalbali.com
Surya Husada Public Hospital
Jl. Pulau Serangan 1-3, Denpasar
P. 235 041
Siloam Hospitals
Jl. Sunset Road No. 818, Kuta
P. 779 900
www.siloamhospitals.com
Japan (Consulate General )
Jl. Raya Puputan No. 170,
Renon Denpasar
P. 227 628
Malaysian Consulate
AlamKulKul Resort
Jalan Pantai Kuta, Legian
P. 752 520
Mexico (Honorary Consulate )
Puri Astina Bld, Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin No. 1A,
Renon – Denpasar
P. 223 266
Netherlands (Honorary Consulate)
Jl. Raya Kuta No. 127 – Kuta
P. 761 502
www.moa.nl/jak
Spain (Honorary Consulate )
Komplek Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Vallet No. 11
Jl. Patih Djelantik, Kuta
P. 769 286
Swedish, Finnish & Norway Consulate
c/o Hotel Segara Village
Jl. Segara Ayu, Sanur,
P. 282 223
M. 081 7972 3658
Switzerland & Austria (Consulate)
Jl. Patih Jelantik, Komplek Istana Kuta Galeri,
Bok Valvet2 #12 – Kuta
P. 751 735
USA (Consular Agency )
Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188, Tanjung Bungkak –
Denpasar
P. 233 605
United Kingdom (Honorary Consulate )
Jl. Tirta Nadi 2, No. 20 – Sanur
P. 270 601
www.ukinindonesia.sco.gov.uk
CAR RENTALS / TAXIS
Blue Bird
Jl. By Pass Nusa Dua No. 4
Jimbaran,
P. 701 111
www.bluebirdgroup.com
Express Group
Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 57 xx, Jimbaran
P. 777 723
www.expressgroup.co.id
Golden Bird Bali
Jl. By Pass Nusa Dua No. 4, Jimbaran
P. 701 621
www.bluebirdgroup.com
Trac Astra Rent Car
Jl. By Pass Nusa Dua, Jimbaran
P. 703 333
www.trac.astra.co.id
117
Contact: Robert Epstone 08164701948 or
Sarah Chapman 081239891514
Website: www.solemen.org
Facebook: Indonesia Sole Men /171448079551178
w w w. e a s t b a l i p o v e r t y p r o j e c t . o r g
Education | Nutrition | Primary Health Care | Environmental Education
You can help to provide employment for begging women and children from
Muntigunung.
How?
Buy the ROSELLA
TEA, produced by the people of Muntigunung
Available in selected hotels and boutiques.
Every purchase employs a person for two days.
Organic Farming | Toilets, Water & Sanitation | Bamboo Reforestation
How can you help ?
1.
2.
3.
4.
Sponsor career development for high-school children
graduating in 2011+
Sponsor more families toilets (2000 needed !)
900 families need safe water facilities
1,000 hectares need bamboo planting for reforestation,
sustainable community & economic development
Help us to help them
help themselves
- 100% natural
- Rich in vitam in B1, B2, C and D
For orders/Sales contact:
Phone: 081 353 996 996
E-mail: [email protected]
For general information on the Muntigunung Development Program:
www.zukunft-fuer-kinder.ch/en
INTERVIEW
THE JOHN FAWCETT
FOUNDATION
“There are over 4 million blind people in Indonesia, and over 3 million of these
are cataract blind, a condition which is curable in most cases. However for most
Indonesians the cost of a cataract operation is far beyond their financial capacity
and they remain blind throughout their lives, a burden on their families and
communities.
The John Fawcett Foundation (JFF) is committed to do as much as it can to
eradicate curable blindness, particularly in Bali, and to this end is seeking funding
to expand its very successful mobile eye clinic model to other economically
disadvantaged areas of Indonesia. NOW! Bali sat down with John Fawcett and
learned more about his foundation.”
120
When and how was the John Fawcett Foundation founded?
It all started when the then Bali Governor Ida Bagus Mantra came
to me for help. He was looking for a way to eradicate the number
of blindness cases caused by cataracts here on the island. And so
the John Fawcett Foundation was founded, and together with its
Indonesian counterpart, the Yayasan Kemanusiaan Indonesia, the
“Sight Restoration and Blindness Prevention Project” started in
1991 with the mobile eye clinic, offering cataract surgery free of
charge for economically disadvantaged people in the villages of
Bali.
What are JFF’s goals?
To relieve sickness, suffering and distress in families of the lower
socio-economic groups, occasioned through blindness, eye
disease, cleft lips and palates, and serious crippling and debilitating
diseases, particularly in children, through the provision of medical
equipment, medical care, medical advice, welfare and support
services. We also aim to promote literacy and numeracy projects
to alleviate poverty as the root cause of problems in health,
nutrition, crime and war; to raise, receive, hold and invest funds
to finally support such work; to carry out such other related
activities as the Foundation’s Committee may determine; and to
operate without alignment to any governmental, institutional,
political or religious organization.
How does JFF achieve its goals?
The Foundation’s success in achieving its goals since the beginning
of its involvement in Indonesia has been dependent on the work of
a large number of very dedicated volunteers who freely give their
time. These include logistics people in Australia who organize
medical equipment and supplies, medical personnel who come
to Bali and teach local doctors and medical staff in new surgical
techniques, those who help to raise funds, and numerous others.
Your donation can change a life. To make a cash donation
or if you are able to donate any of the items mentioned
above you can contact JFF and/or visit their office at:
Jalan Pengembak 16, Blanjong, Sanur
Phone: 270 812
Are there any other programs that JFF provides for the
underprivileged people?
The John Fawcett Foundation is committed to more than sight
restoration. Other projects include
Children’s Corrective Surgery, Education Assistance, Assistance to
Desperately Ill Children and
Young People, and Prosthetic Eyes.
What is the biggest obstacle in running the programs?
It’s definitely the funds. The projects that we run are not cheap. We
also have an urgent need for the following ophthalmic equipment:
• Ophthalmic A-scanners, complete with probe and manuals
• Keratometers – optical type
• Tonometers – non-touch
• Auto-refractors – bench or hand-held
• Ophthalmic slit lamps
• Ophthalmic microscopes
• Ophthalmic instruments for cataract surgery
• Ophthalmic operating tables
• Speed sterilizers for surgical instruments - small
Do you have a strategy to overcome this problem?
We actively seek out donors and sponsorships to help fund our
programs. I’d like to thank those who have been helping us for
their generous support. It is thanks to them that The John Fawcett
Foundation is able to provide medical and other humanitarian
assistance to needy people.!
Tax deductable donations can be made from Australia,
United Kingdom, and United States of America. To learn
about this you can visit www.balieye.org.
121
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TEXT AND IMAGES BY MADE WIJAYA
KUTA’S TRANCEMASTER
SUPERSTARS
They have Facebook pages that seem devoted to serious ceremonial activities — the spooky Calonarang
witch battles being the most popular — until you look down to the friends section and its all buxom
blondes in swimwear. This is Kuta after all.
I have recently been introduced to a group
of sweetie-macho trancemasters in Kuta.
By day they are all parking attendants,
security guards or surf shop owners but
at night, when the barong and rangda
come out, they turn into extras from
Michael Jackson’s Thriller! They have
Facebook pages that seem devoted to
serious ceremonial activities — the spooky
Calonarang witch battles being the most
popular — until you look down to the
friends section and its all buxom blondes
in swimwear. This is Kuta after all.
Celebrity photographer Linggar Saputra
Wayan of the Kuta Photographers
Club introduced me to the Tuban-Kuta
ceremonial scene. With Saputra I have
devoted much of the last two months to
the trancees’ ceremonial activities in the
Kuta palace, Puri Satria Dalem Kaleran,
which sits hard on the Kuta Market, and
the Pura Dalem Tunon temple which sits
quietly beachside between the Dynasty
and Bintang Ramada hotels.
We have documented, first, the huge trance
ceremonies surrounding the releasing of
the barong and rangda masks from their
headdresses (see last month’s stranger
column on strangerinparadise.com for a
full report) and, lately, the return of said
masks to their headdresses — with their
new coifs — and all the spooky ceremonies
surrounding these pivotal events.
Over the course of these two months,
Saputra and I have taken thousands of
photographs and made six half-hour
videos. I have started photo-bombing his
most important ‘moments’ (most Balinese
photographers are momentologists, i.e.
they wait in the wings until the fat lady
sings) and he has started ad-libbing over
my video-cam narrations.
Together we have followed the emergence
from the pack of one junior trance master,
I Lolot (see photograph opposite of I Lolot
in full Terminator mode), and documented
his metamorphosis into a trance sergeant
major.
In the process Lolot has grown gold chains,
blond tips, and has added a staggering array
of scary tattoos for the climactic moments
when he rips off his shirt and gives one of
his boy band of junior trancees a kiss of life
or a claw to the face to snap him out of it.
He has gone from being fag to the senior
priests, chief sandalwood burner and otherworldly sound effects wizard to being
commandant of the tripped-out teenagers.
Watch the video links below to see him
in action Melaspas/Pasupati Barong Singa
Ceremonies: http://youtu.be/7Q2e7dfGPbA
and Ceremonies at Pura Dalem Tunon,
Kuta. Pasupati Rituals: http://youtu.be/
mhJrYjt2Pzg.
On the 16th May, Sugian Bali on the Balinese
calendar, the final acts of the two months
of ceremonies were held. At midnight the
proceedings moved to the Kuta graveyard
for the Ngerehang rituals — which involve
the witch spirits being ‘harvested’. One of
I Lolot’s colleagues flew into wild trance,
ripped off his shirt and ran to the Juwet
tree next door, spewing ectoplasm, but
forgetting that next door is now a function
lawn for a smart hotel and that a wedding
reception was in full swing. Saputra’s
OPPOSITE PAGE
I Lolot (Dewa Gagah) posing in
front of his favorite witch mask
before the mass trance-in at
the Kuta Palace house shrine
BELOW
Photographer Linggar Saputra
Wayan, Kuta’s celebrity
photographer
123
FACES & FASHION
AT THE PURA DALEM TUNON CEREMONIES
MAY 2014
Barong
Ba
arong
ar
ong da
d
dance
dancers
ance
ncers
r at the
rs
h Ku
Kuta
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a
pa
palace
alace
al
acee ho
house
usee te
templ
temple
mpl
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JUNE
2014
124
WWW.NOWBALI.CO.ID
Rangda mask at the Pasupati ceremonies,
Kuta palace
LINGGAR SAPUTRA WAYAN’S PHOTOGRAPHS
Trancing pepatih guard barong at Pura Dalem Tunon
I Dewa
Dewa Ng
Ngura
Ngurah,
u h,
ura
h tem
temple
temple
pl pr
p
prince
incee
inc
125
VALE
MARK SHAND 1952 - 2014
For years the most dashing Englishman — married to London deb of the year Clio Goldsmith in 1990 — Mark Shand made his mark in Bali
in the 1980s as co-owner, with Hon. Harry Fane, of the Garuda Park estate on the beach at the end of the Batu Belig Road. There was a
sign at the front gate that read, ‘If you are a friend of a friend.....go away’. The boys, as they were known, were the epitome of upper
class englishness. Aloof and often naked they were fearless adventurers: diving at night to spear sharks off Lembongan, hunting wild boar
illegally in Chinese sugar baron estates in East Java, sailing to Komodo in a native outriggers where they famously met up with the cruise
vessel chartered by Mick Jagger and refused to go aboard) and trekking into the jungles of West Irian to find the tribesmen who had eaten
Michael Rockerfeller. (Shand’s book of this adventure, ‘Skullduggery’, described how they had produced a letter from the British High
Commisioner in Jakarta (a close friend of Shand’s uncle) which saved their lives). In Bali they only befriended local Balinese: in particular
legendary Sanur-based Nusa Lembongan-born boatsman Made Monoh and beefcake Seminyak lothario Wayan Ledang. Their estate,
designed by Linda Garland, was looked over by ancient Madurese retainers
called The Mins. They coined the term “the Barlows” (as in: can’t join you
The Route
tonight, we are having dinner with the Barlows).
During his Bali years a bevy of London beauties accompanied Shand to
Garuda Park: Marie Helvin, Bianca Jagger, Tahitian Diane and Brazilian
artist Sylvia Martien.
After marrying Goldsmith the Shands were regulars on the August party
scene at Batujimbar. Over the past two decades Shand was involved in
The Elephant Family charity which did much to help elephants and their
mahouts in India. His two books on his adventures, co-written with Gita
Mehta, won many awards. Shand was also the first of the great blonde
mahoots.
He is survived by his daughter Ayesha, and his sisters Camilla, Duchess of The voyage of the
Gin Pahit from Bali to
Cornwall and Anabel Elliot.
Flores and back, 1989
Mark Shand, Nyoman & Hon. Harry Fane
The Gin Pahit
, captain
Made Monoh
(Photos courtesy of Hon. Harry Fane)
126
Trance-master Aji Agus Salim leaves the wedding reception next to the graveyard. Photo: Linggar Saputra Wayan. Bottom right: (left to right)
Willem Bake, A.A.Putra, the Stranger. Bottom left: The atmosphere inside the Kuta palace house temple during the Pasupati ritual
photo of trance-master Aji Agus Salim
emerging is worth one million words. (See
this page).
All of the ceremonies were exquisitely
organized by the Kuta palace — a palace
descended from the Gelgel (Klungkung)
Dalem Sri Kepakisan dynasty — right down
to the distribution of matching chequered
skirt cloths (saput) for all the 300 men
taking part in the ceremonies.
Only once did one of the senior priests
have to beat Lolot and his gang of ghouls
into place with some slaps to the back (see
video) when they threatened to disrupt
delicate barong placating rites during the
night session at the temple.
Everything went like clockwork, as if they’d
been rehearsing for months; excepting the
trances of course, which never ceased to
amaze with their ingenuity. One minute
Lolot was wrapped around the senior
priest for 20 minutes, shuddering and
wimping, an hour later he’d be hurling
himself at the barong’s beard. The most
tender trance moment came when two of
the pepatih (trancees) knelt at the feet of
the parked barong during a 15 minute ritual
— like goal keepers to the netherworld (see
photo previous page).
Two young Brits stumbled across the
ceremonies — they were looking for a
shortcut to the main road — and stayed to
watch from the temple’s main entrance for
about a minute. And four Germans were
apprehended in the temple’s forecourt:
they thought it was the ‘Oktoberfest in
April’ the hotel Dynasty had organized.
Otherwise it was tourist-free event despite
being sandwiched between two of Kuta’s
biggest hotels.
robbed, raped or slashed. The Facebook
page Bali Crime Reports has nearly 20,000
members.
The new urban expatriate is bursting at
the seams and has attracted packs of
criminals, as urban sprawl tends too.
Expats have no real rights or official lobby
(beyond, say, the Hotels and Restaurants
Association and the various consulates)
so it will be interesting to see how the
authorities take this.
The expat community, now quite large
(about 30,000 permanent and 50,000 other
temporaries), is fed up with the rise in
street crime.
19 May 2014: Kuta-Canggu expats have
organized a meeting to discuss violence
against women a at community hall in
Seminyak. Members from local banjars,
the police and the military are there.
The statistics are scary: almost every day a
woman is dragged from her bike and either
127

god from the machine swanky ju-ma

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