NP#205#Rebuild## # Information#taken#from

Transcription

NP#205#Rebuild## # Information#taken#from
NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
http://w w w .okcnetw orks.com /bronco/index.htm#
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Clean the case so that no dirt can get inside when you start to tear it down.
Remove the lock nut from the front output shaft assembly (Figure!1).!!
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Figure#1#
Note: If you do not have a flange holding tool, the easiest way to remove
this nut is with an impact wrench.
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Page 1 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Slide yoke off of the shaft and remove the 4 bolts from the front
seal/bearing retainer (Figure!2).!
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Figure#2#
Remove retainer from case (Figure!3).
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Figure#3#
Note: The use of a pick or small screwdriver may be necessary to pry the
retainer off.
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Page 2 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Remove the 8 bolts from the rear bearing retainer (Figure!4). This is a large
aluminum plate.
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Figure#4
Remove retainer plate from case (Figure!5).
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Figure#5
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Page 3 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Using a rubber mallet, tap the front output shaft assembly from the case
(Figure!6), and remove the assembly (Figure!7).
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Figure#6#
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Figure#7
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Page 4 of 43!
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Remove the snap ring from the front output shaft bearing and remove
bearing from case (Figure!8).
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Figure#8
Remove the 4 bolts from the input shaft seal retainer (Figure!9), and remove
retainer from case (Figure!10).
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Figure#9#
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Page 5 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Figure#10
Remove the 8 bolts from the rear drive output shaft assembly, and remove
assembly from case (Figure!11).
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Figure#11
There are 15 roller bearings in the assembly, put them in a small ziplock
bag.
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Page 6 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Remove the snap ring from the input shaft bearing (Figure!12).
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Figure#12
From inside the case, grab the input shaft assembly and pull the assembly
out (Figure!13).
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Figure#13#
Note: Tapping on the input shaft with a small hammer will ease removal.
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Page 7 of 43!
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Information#taken#from:#
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Using a blunt punch, drive the two 1/4 inch shift rail pin access hole plugs
into the case (Figure!14).
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Figure#14
Remove the two shift rail poppet nuts and springs from the case (Figure!15).
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Figure#15
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Page 8 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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There is a ball bearing in each hole that can be removed using a slim
magnet (Figure!16).
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Figure#16#
Note: If no magnet is available, you can tilt the case over and the ball
bearings will fall out.
Position both shift rails in neutral to line up the shift fork retaining pins.
Using a narrow punch, tap the shift fork retaining pins out (Figure!17 & Figure!
18).
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Figure#17#
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Page 9 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Figure#18#
Note: Pins will fall to the bottom of the case.
Remove the range shift rail (short one) first, then the 4 wheel drive rail
(long one) (Figure!19).
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Figure#19#
Note: When you remove the rails hold the shifter forks with the other hand
and remove them from the case. Keep them together.
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Page 10 of 43!
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Slide the rail pins out (Figure!20).
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Figure#20
Remove the idler shaft lock nut (Figure!21 & Figure!22).!!
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Figure#21#
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Page 11 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Figure#22#
Note: I used an impact wrench for this. It is a 1- 5/16 nut so make sure
you have this size socket.
Remove the washer behind the lock nut (Figure!23).
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Figure#23
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Page 12 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Remove the idler shaft rear cover (Figure!24).
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Figure#24
Use a punch and mallet to drive the idler shaft out (Figure!25 & Figure!26).
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Figure#25#
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Figure#26#
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Page 13 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Roll the idler shaft assembly to the right and pull it out of the large hole.
Remove the PTO access cover (Figure!27).
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Figure#27
Pull the shift rail seals (Figure!28).
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Figure#28#
Note: At this point you are finished with tear down. If you are going to
paint your case, this is the time to do that.
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Page 14 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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During tear down, it is a good idea to keep the parts from each assembly
together in bags (Figure!29).
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Figure#29
Assembly begins with a freshly painted case (Figure!30).
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Figure#30
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Page 15 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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If you need new bearings in the idler shaft assembly, drive out the old
races and put new ones in (Figure!31 & Figure!32). !!
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Figure#31#
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Figure#32#
Note: It will cost substantially less to rebuild if you don't have to replace all
your bearings. Mine only needed these two.
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Page 16 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Here are all the parts for the idler shaft assembly (Figure!33).
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Figure#33
Start with one of the bearings on a piece of cardboard (Figure!34).
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Figure#34#
Note: There are 4 shims in the assembly. Two of them go on top of this
bearing.
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Page 17 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Place the idler gear on top of the bearing (Figure!35).
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Figure#35
Place the spacer on the bearing and shims. Place the other 2 shims on the
top of the spacer (Figure!36).
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Figure#36
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Page 18 of 43!
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Place the other bearing into the race (Figure!37).
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Figure#37
Slide the assembly to the end of your workbench and place your hand
under the cardboard.
Place the assembly into the large hole keeping the cardboard underneath.
Slide assembly to the left until centered on the hole, then remove
cardboard (Figure!38 & Figure!39).
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Figure#38#
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Page 19 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Figure#39#
Place idler shaft into hole and lightly tap until it drops through (Figure!40 &
Figure!41).
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Figure#40#
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Figure#41
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Page 20 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Place washer and lock nut onto shaft and tighten to 90-130 ft-lbs (Figure!42
& Figure!43).
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Figure#42#
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Figure#43#
Note: Check for free rotation of idler shaft.
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Page 21 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Position the idler shaft cover so that flat side faces the rear bearing retainer
of the front output shaft. Install a new gasket and sealer, then tighten bolts
to 15-25 ft-lbs (Figure!44).
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Figure#44
Insert rail pins into place. Push them all the way in past the opening for the
shifter rails (Figure!45).
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Figure#45
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Page 22 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
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!
Install new shift rail seals (Figure!46).
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Figure#46
Start the four wheel drive shift rail (long one) into the case, solid end first,
with detent notches up.
Note: Do not insert all the way yet, just insert it a few inches.
Position shift fork onto the shift rail with the long end facing inward (Figure!
47 & Figure!48).
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Figure#47#
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Page 23 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
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Figure#48
Push the rail through the fork and into the neutral position.
Position the input gear and bearing into place and place snap ring onto
bearing (Figure!49).
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Figure#49
Start the range shift rail (short one) into the case from the front with
detent notches up.
Note: Do the same as above, just insert a few inches.
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Page 24 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
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!
Position the sliding clutch onto the fork. Position the clutch on the input
gear and align the fork with shift rail. Then push shift rail through the fork
and into the neutral position (Figure!50).
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Figure#50
Using a long punch, install the roll pins locking the shift forks to the shift
rails (Figure!51).
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Figure#51#
Note: Make sure the holes in the rails and the forks are lined up.
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Page 25 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Install front output shaft bearing into case and install snap ring (Figure!52).
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Figure#52
Next to go in is the front output shaft assembly.
Note: This was a little tricky to install so I will break it down.
There are three pieces that have to go in the case first (Figure!53).
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Figure#53
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Page 26 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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This is how they are positioned on the shaft once in the case (Figure!54).
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Figure#54
First, set the case on its side and support it with two 4X4 blocks (Figure!55).
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Figure#55
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Page 27 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Place the thrust washer on the bearing, then the front wheel high gear goes
in with the large oiling grooves facing upward. Then position the sliding
clutch onto the fork (Figure!56).
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Figure#56
Line up the thrust washer, high gear and sliding clutch with the bearing
bore and insert front output shaft through the high gear and bearing
assembly (Figure!57 & Figure!58).
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Figure#57#
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Page 28 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
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Figure#58
Install a new seal in the front seal retainer (Figure!59).
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Figure#59
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Page 29 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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Install a new gasket, apply sealer to both sides and tighten bolts to 20-40
ft-lbs (Figure!60, Figure!61 & Figure!62).
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Figure#60#
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Figure#61#
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Figure#62#
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Page 30 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Note: Make sure the oil drain hole on the gasket lines up with the hole on
the case.
Install new gasket and sealer on the rear bearing retainer (large plate) and
tighten bolts to 20-40 ft-lbs (Figure!63 & Figure!64).
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Figure#63#
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Figure#64
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Page 31 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Slide yoke onto front output shaft and torque lock nut to 90-130 ft-lbs
(Figure!65).
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Figure#65
Now we can install new seals and gaskets in the rear output shaft assembly
(Figure!66).
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Figure#66
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Page 32 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
http://w w w .okcnetw orks.com /bronco/index.htm#
!
Remove the lock nut from the shaft and slide yoke off (Figure!67).
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Figure#67#
Note: There is a rubber gasket under the lock nut.
Remove the five bolts from the seal retainer and remove from shaft (Figure!
68).
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Figure#68
Now you can lift the housing off of the shaft.
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Page 33 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
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!
When you lift the shaft, the roller bearings will fall out. Set them aside
(Figure!69).
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Figure#69
Clean up the housing and then your ready to put it back together.
First put the roller bearings back into the cup using petroleum jelly to hold
them in place (Figure!70).
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Figure#70
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Page 34 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Lower the housing on to the shaft being careful not to lose any of the roller
bearings (Figure!71).
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Figure#71
Next place the speedometer gear on the shaft (Figure!72).
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Figure#72
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Page 35 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Tap the bearing down into place and install snap ring (Figure!73).
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Figure#73
Install new seal in the seal retainer (Figure!74).
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Figure#74
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Page 36 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
http://w w w .okcnetw orks.com /bronco/index.htm#
!
Apply gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket, install the retainer and
torque bolts to 20-40 ft. lbs (Figure!75).
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Figure#75
Slide yoke into place, install rubber gasket and then lock nut. Torque nut to
90-130 ft. lbs (Figure!76 , Figure!77 & Figure!78).
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Figure#76#
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Page 37 of 43!
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#
Information#taken#from:#
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!
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Figure#77
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Figure#78
Install a new seal in the input shaft retainer (Figure!79).
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Figure#79
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Page 38 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Apply gasket sealer to both sides of gasket, install retainer and torque bolts
to 20-40 ft. lbs (Figure!80 & Figure!81).
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Figure#80#
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Figure#81
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Page 39 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Flip upside down and using a long needle nose pliers and petroleum jelly,
install needle bearings (Figure!82 & Figure!83).
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Figure#82#
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Figure#83#
Note: There is a spacer that you must place the needle bearings under. I
used a pick to hold it up while inserting bearings.
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Page 40 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Set case on its side supporting one side with a 4X4 block (Figure!84).
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Figure#84
Apply gasket sealer to both sides of gasket and drop assembly into place
(Figure!85).
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Figure#85#
Note: Try to line up the bolt holes before setting into place, you might have
to use a hammer to tap it into place.
Tighten bolts 20-40 ft. lbs.
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Page 41 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
#
Information#taken#from:#
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!
Install poppet balls, springs, and retainer bolts. Torque bolts 15-25 ft. lbs
(Figure!86).
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Figure#86#
Note: Poppet retainer bolts are hollow and will break easily if overtorqued.
Don't ask how I know this ;-)
Apply a small amount of sealer to the hole plugs and tap into place (Figure!
87).
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Figure#87
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Page 42 of 43!
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NP#205#Rebuild##
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Information#taken#from:#
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!
Apply gasket sealer to the PTO cover gasket and torque bolts 12-18 ft. lbs
(Figure!88).
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Figure#88
Fill with appropriate lubricant.
Install oil fill plug and tighten to 25-35 ft. lbs.
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Page 43 of 43!
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