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FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2009
How You
w
o
R
t
Fron
Cope!
✓ Boxing
✓ Vodka
✓ Croquet
✓ Vampires
✓ Roulette
✓ Petting
PLUS!
Expert Advice from
in
p
o
n
lo
K
r.
M
d
n
a
z
O
r.
D
I’m Reem
Acra and I
cha-cha.
ND
SWAGGED A!
TAGGED
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 11, 2009
MISTAKEN RT!
LE
IDENTIT’sYDA
enise
n
A John Deria
t
h
paperweig
si
u
cl vely
designed ex
for Saks
“That
a starwhispered
s
Richards!” er as Doutzen Kroe
p
p
o
sh
ss
o
ck
cr
a
ru
st
er way
swished h floor at Saks.
the main
Bruce
Weber
Blake Lively
!
YOU REACT
YOUR DAILY DOSE
LINDSAY LOHAN
is the new “artistic
adviser” at Ungaro.
Thoughts?
SCENE Well, well, well!
The Barneys/Bergdorf retail
event monopoly got some
competition courtesy of
Steve Sadove, Ron Frasch,
and Charlize Theron. The
mighty trifecta celebrated
Saks’s renovated designer
Anna
third floor with the most
boldface assemblage so far.
Anna even stayed for dinner!
DULY NOTE
(Although not for the baked
D
L.S.D. was !
Alaska). So did Oscar,
only Vogue edthe
aside from A itor
Francisco, Zac, Vera, and
nn
strut the reda to
Peter. The evening’s most
carpet!
curious couple? Alexis Bledel
et Christian Siriano, who hammed
it up per usual. “Is he even sold
here?” sniped a social. Fake it ’til
you make it, baby! Fake it ’til
you make it!
FRANCISCO COSTA: I haven’t
heard that. Really? It’s interesting. If
she can manage, if she can do it, good
for her. Would I hire her at Calvin?
Um, we’re very busy. We have a
lot happening.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG:
I have no comment.
VERA WANG: Oh, great for her!
I think a lot of stars want to be in
fashion. My daughter’s friend told me
that designers are the new rock stars,
and I said, “Wow, that’s so nice to hear,
since I’ve been in fashion for 40 years!”
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO: I’m totally
jealous!
AMY ASTLEY: Good luck!
CAROLINA HERRERA:
I can’t think about that. Would
I hire her? No, not a chance!
You cannot hire a girl who
doesn’t have any experience just for the sake of the
publicity. I think it’s
very sad.
Lauren
Santo Domingo
ER
SAKS DINN
Ron Frasch
Ro
asc
with Zac Posen
Only the very nice
people. I’ll be
very selective with
that one.
RACHEL ZOE: I love Esteban
— CHARLIZE THERON,
on which FNO shoppers
at Dior will get signed
Vogue covers
so much, but I think whatever
they want to do for the house
is what they should do.
Esteban needs to go somewhere good, somewhere
big, somewhere where he can really show his talent.
BEE SHAFFER: I have no thoughts.
ROBERT BURKE: It’s…interesting.
JESSICA WHITE’S PUBLICIST: You think it’s great.
JESSICA WHITE: I think it’s amazing.
?
?
A.)) TEDDY
TE Y ROOSE
ROOSEVELT
circa 1910
Taraji P.
Henson
The third floor is more
couture. We’re actually on
two with Ralph, but we
came out to toast this one
because our clothes are
universal!
C.) GERALDO
Georgina
Chapman
—FRANCISCO COSTA
?
?
B.)) RO
ROBERT DE NIRO
IRO
in The Godfat
Godfather,
Part II
Michelle
Monaghan
Margherita
Margheri
Missoni
HAMISH
MISH BOWLES
Vogue
ue’s
’s Macho-Man
About-Town
Penn
Badgley
E ’STACHE!
H
T
E
C
R
U
O
S
Who do you think inspired HAMISH’s new look?
?
?
Dylan
Lauren
I love to sing,
really. But I can
only sing Spanish
songs!
—OSCAR DE LA RENTA
I don’t actually know
if I made one of these
dresses for Saks. I’m
just here to celebrate!
—VERA WANG
ON THE COVER: REEM ACRA BY VITAL AGIBALOW. THIS PAGE: SAKS PARTY, BOWLES, HERRERA: NICK HUNT/
PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; ROOSEVELT: LIBRARY OF CONGRESS; DE NIRO: EVERETT COLLECTION; PAPERWEIGHT: COURTESY
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE; LOHAN: BILLY FARRELL/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; KROES: PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; RICHARDS: GETTY
STUMP THE CHICSTER!
Where did Stefano Tonchi serve
who bears an uncanny resemblance to Jackie Astier
as creative director pre-T magazine?
Anna Sui: Not sure. But
he lives in my apartment
building!
Jessica White: That’s
a good question. Wait,
who’s Stephanie again?
Phillip Bloch: Avenue
magazine.
Robert Burke:
Armani?
Amanda Brooks:
J. Crew. When I
was 22 and dating
my future husband,
who was 37 at the
time, Stefano wanted
to put us in a catalog,
and my husband
wouldn’t do it.
It paid $2,500 a day!
Christopher Brooks:
Shit. I don’t know. But I
always want to call him
Honky Tonky.
FIT Couture Council
Dries Van Noten
MUSE ON THE MOVE!
I directed a short film this summer. It was quite a
challenge because we shot it underwater! —Daphne Guinness,
Daily
Double!
Iman
Diane von
Furstenberg
Yaz
Hernandez
YOUR DAILY DOSE
SCENE
Antwerp calling! The dapper Dries took
a break from collection prep to accept the FIT Couture
Council’s Award for the Artistry of Fashion. Maggie Gyllenhaal
presented the trophy at Cipriani 42nd Street as guests noshed
on cucumber-wrapped salmon, tomato gazpacho, and meringue.
Who won the coveted raffle prize—a splendid Dries coat? Jamee
Gregory, who shamelessly preened for the cameras as Maggie
smiled drily. “Why don’t they give it to someone who actually needs
it?” sniffed a guest. ☛ Anna Sui unveiled her Gossip Girl–themed
Target collection at a pop-up shop on Crosby Street, complete with
bookish models and goods for sale. “I relate most to Jenny,” the
designer confessed. ☛ And finally, the Cinema Society and the New
Yorker screened Beyond a Reasonable Doubt at Loews
Lincoln Square.
Before joining T, Tonchi was
creative director of Self
(1994–1996), a creative
consultant for J. Crew
(1996–1998), and the fashion
creative director at Esquire
(1998–2003). He was also the
fashion director of L’Uomo
Vogue (1987–1994) and a
co-founder of Westuff (1984–
1987), which later became
Emporio Armani magazine.
CT! y
FUN FA
is actuall
n
Van Note d Belgian
the secon honored
be
Taurus to ! (Kris Van
this week d his Dior
a
Assche h Q dinner
/G
e
m
m
Ho
ay.)
on Tuesd
Glenda
Bailey
FIT has thrown
me so many
great parties this
year. I feel like a
departing Miss
Universe!
—ISABEL TOLEDO
The most
intimate thing
you can ask a
designer to do
is to make your
wedding dress,
which I did this
spring when I
finally got married.
It’s completely
different from
making a dress
for a premiere.
—MAGGIE GYLLENHAAL
A MOMENT WITH…
from FIT, so that should be
Dries Van Noten students
quite inspiring. I love to discuss fashion
Welcome to New York!
It’s such a short trip. I’m only
here for 48 hours because I’m in the
middle of choosing all the shoes for my
collection.
What are you squeezing in?
My press agents put quite an itinerary
together. Tomorrow I’m meeting
with young people.
How’s Belgium?
Summer was beautiful because we had
amazing weather in Antwerp for once. I
worked on my collection and gardened.
What do you like to grow?
Anything! Just give me some seeds, my
tools, and some soil, and I’m a happy man.
Paging Page Six!
Was that Christie Brinkley’s ex
Peter Cook we saw checking out
baby furniture at the Restoration
Hardware party Wednesday
night? (Don’t ask.) The nubile
babe on his arm even looked like
that Bianchi chick!
Lorenzo Martone
and Amanda
Setton
Anna Sui for Target
Michael
Douglas
with Amber
Tamblyn
Michelle
Trachtenberg
David Cross
oubt
Beyond a Reasonable D
screening
I’m not wearing
Anna Sui for Target.
This is a Dior bag
and shoes, but
everything else is
just like…not.
—TAYLOR MOMSEN
TARGET: NEIL RASMUS/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (8); FIT COUTURE COUNCIL: NICK HUNT/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (6); SCREENING: BILLY FARRELL/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (4); PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (3); SHUTTERSTOCK (2)
I believe in lots
of meditation...
lots of yoga…
and playing with
my son.
—MONET MAZUR
Jessica
Szohr
Jeanie Syfu,
acclaimed
hairstylist to
A-list celebs
and Fashion
Week veteran,
is giving you
the insider
scoop on all
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Want even more tips from
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2010 and join the action!
ficially single.
The Bally creativ
e director
and Nate Berkus
, his boyfriend
of at least thre
e years, parted
ways in August.
ODD
TIMES
wing
Which of the follo
lines?
are actual NYT by
1. Anahad O’Connor
2. Vikas Bajaj
ter
3. Jean Michel Toas
4. Anne Raver
5. Osama Macavoy
rg
6. Jacques Steinbe
e
um
Ba
7. Maia de la
r
8. Roland X. Facteu
KEY: 1, 2, 4, 6, and 7
are real.
Stylist
Secrets !
Revealed
BACK ON
TH
MARKET! E
Br
B ian Atwood is
of
Phillip Lim
YOUR DAILY DOSE
HEARD At the Amanda
Brooks I [heart] Your Style book
party: “There are a lot of people
I respect who are anti-style. I
like a really, really badly dressed
person, an obstinately badly
dressed person.” —Christopher
Brooks ☛ It’s a great book to
read everywhere, including
the loo.” —Diane von
Furstenberg ☛ “I believe
in self-knowledge.”
—Amanda Brooks ☛
“Anything you can put in
about Muscle Milk in
Friday’s paper? Marc
Jacobs just placed a
special order for a case of
100-Calorie Muscle Milk
Bee Shaffer
Light…” ☛ Next up on
Bravo: a docu-series on
photogs Markus Klinko
and Indrani. Expect crews
at Thuy…
Amanda Brooks
book party
Karlie
Kloss
HSN Dinner
For my sweet 16, I got
a string of Mikimoto
pearls. When I was
growing up, you waited
until you were really
ready to put on a set for
the first time. Maybe it’s
a southern thing?
I’m following two
rules: no carbs after
6 p.m. and plenty of
Ambien. Don’t pretend like you don’t
need a sleep aid!
—NATE BERKUS
—MOLLY SIMS, CELEBRATING
HER GRAYCE LINE FOR HSN
AT RAOUL’S
THINGS TO
DISCUSS…
Brooks et filles
1. The motives of Esteban and Olivier
2. Who will pop first: Dasha or Pop?
3. The unsinkable Alexandra Richards
4. Your credit card balance
5. Grauso back to Vera?
H...
CATCHING UP WIT
Barry Schwartz
sioner.” I hand feed him a
million dollars. We call him the “Pen
vin?
-Cal
post
to
up
been
What have you
couple apples every day.
I trade in markets on a
I breed horses almost full time, and
How often do you see Calvin?
We live two
regular basis. I also travel a lot.
Not often. We’ve really dropped off.
ry the horse? He’s
Ave
Sean
with
lved
invo
you
are
.
How
different lives
been winning a lot lately...
What do you think of Francisco?
put
was
hip
ners
part
The
.
I see a lot of him.
My wife is one of three partners
I love him! He’s absolutely wonderful.
ner of
part
and
er
train
se
[hor
I’m really
no
job.
tefa
DeS
lous
together by John
Francisco has just done a fabu
s a little piece too.
Francisco Costa]. I think Francisco own
proud of him.
his name?
How did Sean Avery the horse get
What do you wear to the track?
rds
awa
A
CFD
the
at
y
Aver
to take two dozen suits
John and I met the human Sean
A suit and a tie. It’s Saratoga! I need
would you
“How
,
said
John
red.
hono
enjoy the old formalities.
I
t.
was
o
mee
the year Francisc
with me if I go for the whole
”
in your closet?
have
still
you
do
in
like to have a horse named after you?
How much Calv
t
abou
John
d
Calvin clothes in the
of
calle
ction
Afterward, he even
My wife has the biggest colle
to
you ever see my closet…
If
it!
to
adds
still
she
it. Hopefully he will be able to come
world, and
nice
a
is
floor in our house
y
one
reall
y
have
Aver
we
Saratoga. Sean
t ’s just for us. It looks like a
that
horse. I want to run him at Belmont
gigantic closet with more Calvin
and have the other Sean come.
than you could ever imagine.
suits
s
Is he your favorite?
t
abou
es—
do the horse and fashion
t
Wha
W
Oh, I have 100 hors
wor
w lds have in common?
50 or so here on the farm—and
Noth
N ing! Fashion is in the future.
a lot that I’m very fond of. But
Which Sean Avery
Ave
horse world is in the past.
The
T
I have one horse here that’s 21
do you prefer?
a
to
e
clos
years old who won
BROOKS PARTY: AMANDA SCHWAB/STARTRAKS (3);
HSN DINNER: JOE SCHILDHORN/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (2);
PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (4); COURTESY BARRY SCHWARTZ (1)
I M G
P U B L I S H I N G
REQUEST
FOR INFO:
How did
Jill Zarin and
her entire
entourage
score invites
to the Saks
dinner?
P R E S E N T S
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Treatments by
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Eyewear
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Beauty by
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Design
Inspiration
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Cocktails
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love by
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YOUR DAILY DOSE
HE DOGS!
TH
CALL OFF T
NILSSON!
A
L
WE FOUND RS
en, dude?
Where have you be traveling, which
e
I’ve spent a lot of tim y and has allowed
ur
lux
a
ite
has been qu
bal
of inspiration. A glo e
me to collect a lot
u’v
yo
w
ho
k
hin
u to ret
recession forces yo
y I’m
wh
is
ich
wh
st,
pa
done things in the
t my next project.
really excited abou ard to the shows?
rw
Are you looking fo
the
always the best in
is
y
erg
en
New York’s
this
an
th
ing
rill
th
e
or
m
world—and never
hing
feeling that everyt
week. You get the
is possible.
?
What are you loving drei Tarkovsky—
An
by
is,
lar
So
w
sa
t
I jus
d I just finished Stieg
quite impressive. An eit three years after
alb
,
Larsson’s first book d Swede!
ba
a
I’m
e.
els
everyone
FT
MORNING-A
Greetings from London…
ER QUIZ
’s
hion’s
hi
hio
ash
Fas
Fas
he following were actual
th
i h off the
hich
Wh
?
nts
eve
or
s
Night Out-related promo
ted a hair and
1. Sylvana Soto-Ward hos
ld.
infe
makeup workshop at Kle
0 or more
,00
$10
nt
spe
o
wh
2. Shoppers
a private
for
pon
at Asprey received a cou
Farrell.
ly
Bil
c’s
PM
h
wit
n
portrait sessio
Nine West
the
at
d
me
3. Third Eye Blind perfor
store on Fifth Avenue.
Spanish consulate
4. Paco Rabanne and the
test at Zara.
con
g
tin
-ea
rizo
hosted a cho
ney Island
Co
ted
5. Laura Lobdell recrea
te with
ple
com
p,
sho
age
Vill
at her West
costumed
and
s,
dog
spiked snow cones, hot
mermaids.
open past midnight
6. Patricia Field stayed
hing demos.
rus
airb
tom
and gave cus
chase at La Perla!
pur
7. Free thong with any
Soho and
ts’
duc
Pro
al
tur
8. Korres Na
” cocktails
tox
“de
d
Brooklyn shops offere
.
nts
ida
iox
ant
h
infused wit
hosted a
9. David & Sybil Yurman
ty.
par
re
sto
d
me
western-the
zed a drag queen
ani
org
e
Ric
o
tin
San
10.
igner floor of
beauty pageant on the des
Loehmann’s.
o greeted local
11. Lauren Santo Doming
ggers
blo
newspaper editors and
s
tel’
Ho
k
Par
in the Bryant
FNO media lounge.
12. Dasha Zhukova signed
autographs at Chico’s.
KEY: 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 11 all really happened
PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (5); GETTY (4); SHUTTERSTOCK (2);
COURTESY JENNI KAYNE (1); COURTESY NAEEM KHAN (1)
QUEL P
Harvey Weins OWER TRIO!
tein, Elisabeth
M
and Sir Philip
Green at the G urdoch,
Q Men of
the Year Awar
ds
JENNI KAYNE
The best part about
showing in New
York is all the great
restaurants. We’re
going to Hundred
Acres tonight.
—JENNI KAYNE
NAEEM
Then & Now
“Age 19…
mobster,”
says the
designer of
his adolescent
look. So chic,
so petit—no
wonder he
was Halston’ss
protégé!
Survival of the Chicest
It’s dark out there, darlings! Aside from reading the Daily, how are you staying sane?
Alexis Bryan
Morgan,
Vanity Fair
Shopping
sales. I got
practically a
year’s worth of
baby clothes
at the Gap for
under $50!
Esteban
Este
Cortazar,
Cort
Former Ungaro
Designer
My recession
remedy is to
save as much
money as I can.
It makes
m
me
feel
fee better.
Kevin
Carrigan,
Calvin Klein
My remedy is to
keep spending.
To get out of
this mess, the
economy needs
consumers
to keep
consuming!
We’ve got to
stay optimistic
and positive.
Susan Woo,
Designer
For me, it’s
yoga. I get a
high and an
excitement that
not even a bad
economy can
dampen.
PATRICKMCMULLAN .COM (20); GETTY (11); SHUTTERSTOCK (10)
Amy Astley,
Teen Vogue
A vodka tonic
with a lot of
ice and a lime
usually does
the trick!
Glenn O’Brien,
Consultant
Winning
money at
cards, golf,
croquet, or
boccie always
lightens my
mood.
Tatiana
Sorokko,
Stylist
I prefer
escapism, so
to combat my
black moods,
I usually turn
in one of two
directions.
First, to Dr.
Hank Lawson
of Royal Pains
to take the
edge off.
If that doesn’t
work, I’ll try
a little bloodletting with
sexy bad-boy
vampire Eric
Northman on
True Blood.
Jen Kao,
Designer
Spending as
much time
outside as
humanly
possible.
Bumsuk
Choi,
General
Idea
I go out more
than I did
before, and I
act as though
I am doing
better
than ever. It’s
worked so far.
Sasha
Pivovarova,
Model
Lots of
sunrises
and sunsets!
The best part
is they’re
free!
Beth
Ostrosky,
Activist
Spending the
day giving
kisses to the
dogs and cats
and watching
them being
adopted
into loving
homes.
Thuy Diep,
Designer
I like to make
pint-size
versions of
my favorite
collection
samples
for my Jack
Russell
to wear.
Dressing
him up never
fails to cure
my woes,
recession or
otherwise.
Sari
Sloane,
Intermix
Sunshine
and a good
night’s sleep
will make
anyone feel
better when
starting
their day!
Feeling
skinny
always
helps too.
Justin Giunta,
Designer for
Subversive
Jewelry
I like to look at
art. Any art will
do. Whatever is
available. The
transcendent
power of art
helps lift my
spirits during
the recession.
Christian
Siriano,
Designer
I sit at
home, eat
Popsicles,
and stream
movies on
Netflix.
Lonneke
Engel,
Model
I spend my
time reading
magazines
and books,
listening to
people, and
looking
online for
charity
initiatives
that make
the world a
bit better.
Lydia Fenet,
Christie’s
The best
recessiondepression
remedy is
walking on
the High
Line. It’s so
beautiful up
there and
everyone
looks like
they’re
enjoying a
mini respite
from the
everyday
grind.
Joanna Coles,
Marie Claire
My recession
remedy is a
large vodka
martini and
Mad Men.
Charlotte
Ronson,
Designer
I’ve been
hosting a
movie night
at my house
for all my
friends. It’s
super-fun,
and I make a
sick batch of
popcorn.
Lars
Nilsson,
Designer
One thing
that always
lightens up
my mood
is art and
flowers. For
example,
a picture
by Storm
Tharp from
Portland
or a photo
of poppy
flowers from
my friend HP.
Tia Cibani,
Ports 1961
Yoga helps
me get
through
the more
stressful
times!
Nicole Miller,
Designer
Last week I
took a break
one day
and went
to trapeze
school. A
couple of
months ago
I tried rock
climbing and
had a great
time—the
trapeze
seemed like
the next thing
to do. I was
talking to a
friend about it
over drinks at
the Standard
one night and
the next day
she booked
it. At that
point there
was no
backing out!
Monica
Botkier,
Designer
My 4-yearold daughter
loves to look
at magazines
with me and
asks for all
the beautiful
dresses she
sees. So in
keeping with
the recession,
we decided to
start sketching
our version of
the dresses
so one day
we can make
them.
Savannah
Miller,
Designer
The recession
fired me
up, and I’m
working harder
and faster....
And I’m
drinking lots
more coffee.
Scott Lipps,
One Model
Boss
Watching
Top Chef.
I’m hoping
seeing The
September
Issue will help.
Yigal
Azrouël,
Designer
What’s a
recession?
Rebecca
Taylor,
Designer
Buying
lipstick lifts
my spirits. A
little lip color
goes a
long way!
JUST FOR YOU, RACHEL!
himself!
Coping advice from Dr. Oz Garcia
1. Eliminate coffee. Number
one. It’s terrible.
energizing morning meal.
2. Instead, have green tea. It
gives you a lift and energy but
also calms you during times of
high pressure.
3. Don’t skip meals, and
always have breakfast. Granola,
berries, and yogurt is a great
Lela Rose,
Designer
Cooking is
definitely a
cure to many
of my stressful
times. I just
love to be in
the kitchen.
It’s something
that’s very
creative and
also very
relaxing. We
literally make
homemade
ice cream on a
nightly basis.
Robert Tagliapietra
and Jeffrey Costello,
Designers
We quit smoking!
Stefan
Miljanic,
Gilded Age
I like to get in
my car and
drive to my
summer house
in Martha’s
Vineyard
where I have
archives of
some ’80s
and ’90s
magazines
that I like to
revisit.
4. Exercise in the morning to
help clear your mind so you can
think better throughout the
day. If you can break the habit,
get a workout first instead of
breaking out the BlackBerry as
soon as you wake up.
5. Always get adequate sleep.
Stuart
Weitzman,
Designer
I’ve been
trying to
escape to the
U.S. Open here
and there and
have been
playing PingPong in my
office. These
are two of my
favorite things
to do!
Rachel Roy,
Designer
Dr. Oz Garcia’s
vitamin drips:
They help me
find clarity and
energy, two
things I can
always use
more of. There
can never
be enough
healing
going on!
SELF-HELP
Dancing!
Reem Acra
Cha
Cha
!
a
h
C
So you think you can dance? You ain’t seen nothin’ yet. We don’t know what they
put in that Beiruti water, but this designer—whose bridal and evening gowns are
adored by celebs around the globe—sure is loving her new hobby. Mid-tango on the
arm of instructor Manuel Rioja at the You Should Be Dancing! studio on 8th Avenue,
Reem rocked and the Daily marveled. BY ASHLEY BAKER
How did you stumble upon dancing?
I’ve always wanted to dance, since I was a kid. It took me
years to make the move, and once I did I stuck to it. It’s been
a year now.
When you were a child how did you entertain yourself?
It’s always been my designs, since I was a child. I had a livein seamstress. Later I got into vintage shopping, but as far as
exercise or anything like this, I didn’t have any until last year.
What was the catalyst?
I woke up one day saying, Enough is enough. I have to do
what I like to do. I’ll make time. It doesn’t matter when I
take a class—it could be 10 in the evening. It’s like I live two
lives: designer by day, dancer by night. I do it at least two or
three times a week. I go before dinner, after dinner… Let’s
just say I keep it up.
Let’s talk about your shoes…
I didn’t know there were shoes this comfortable until I
tried these on! It’s amazing—like being barefoot with high
heels. Can you imagine that feeling? I got them at a special
dance store. Once you enter that world, it’s unbelievable
what you find.
What are your favorite dances?
I love the hustle, maybe because I’m so comfortable with it.
I thought I’d hate tango, but once I experienced it I realized
how fabulous it is.
What’s your signature move?
You’ll see. I hate to say that I have a signature anything.
What do I know?
Can you dip?
Maybe.
What about lifts?
We practiced them for an hour each of the last two days.
Today marks our third session—let’s see if we can do it.
Do you watch Dancing with the Stars?
Sometimes, when I’m flipping. If I had time I’d love to watch
it, but unfortunately I don’t sit and watch TV too often.
Would you ever consider being on it?
When the time comes? I don’t know. For now it’s not an
option. I’m still an amateur.
Are your clients surprised to hear about your hobby?
No. I have a very classic look in my design, and that
translates to my dancing. Even though it’s hot and sexy, it
can look classy and fabulous.
P H O T O G R A P H S B Y V I TA L AG I B A L OW; S K E T C H C O U R T E S Y R E E M AC R A
Will we see any dancing ensembles on the runway this
season?
Yes.
Have you been back to Lebanon lately?
I’ve been twice this month. We knew a long time ago that
Beirut is a happening place, but now it’s in the press, so
everybody is hearing about it.
We heard you were hanging out with the president.
Over there I’m a big celebrity—the pride of the Lebanese
people. It’s so nice to be welcomed. I left Lebanon 26 yearss
ago, when I was really young. For them, somebody who
left 26 years ago… They thought I wouldn’t understand thee
language or anything, but they were surprised that I was
still in touch.
If you could have any dance partner in the world?
Antonio Banderas.
What dance would you want to do?
Whatever he wanted. He could lead.
TEACHER
TALK
So, Manuel, how long have you been working with Reem?
Less than a year.
What were her skills like when she started?
She could follow naturally, and she had good arms. Strong legs. You could feel her
passion and joy for it immediately. A good sense of music, too. In dance there
are three important factors: dancing with a partner, dancing with the music,
and then making it your own with style and choreography. She had all those
qualities right away. It was just a matter of strengthening them.
How has she improved?
She takes direction now. At first it was hard for her to let me be the boss. But
now she trusts me when I say “Do this again.”
Is she better dressed than your other clients?
Absolutely. There’s this persona—she comes in with a simple black skirt and top,
but you still notice her. She has a presence.
So you can tell she’s a designer?
Not necessarily a designer, but someone who’s got chicness.
Where do you see her dancing skills taking her in the future?
We’ve got to showcase her first. That would be a big step.
She’ll definitely have a good costume.
That’s what I’m really excited about. I love to make costumes too!
She sketches,
too! Reem’s
dream dance
look
It was hard
to give up
control at
first, but
now I just let
him lead.
ACRA-BATICS
Reem and Rioja
have the time of
their lives.
SELF-HELP
Eating!
Haute
&
y
c
i
Sp
Prabal Gurung’s exquisite taste has already earned
him Cathy Horyn’s plaudits. But what about his
palate? The Daily made him take us on a
three-course date so we could see what he was into.
BY EMILY POPP
How psyched were you about Cathy’s
rave last season?
She’s known for her brutal honesty, so if
you believe your good reviews, you also
need to take the bad ones you get the next
season with the same weight. I’m extremely
grateful for positive reviews, but they do
nothing for my ego. I’ve got miles to go.
Well handled! Before you launched your
own line, you were design director at Bill
Blass. How are you adjusting?
At Blass I literally had everything at my
disposal. Then all of a sudden I had to be
the one running around, pounding the
pavement. I went out to dinner with my
friends and told everyone I was thinking
about doing a presentation, and they all
responded immediately, like, “What can we
do? We’ve just been waiting for you to say
the word!” They’re all rooting for me.
How big is your team?
Two in design, two in PR. Fashion gets a
bad rap for being bitchy and superficial,
but the evolution of my collection and my
support team are a testament to absolute
faith and the result of pure love.
But your clothes are so uptown-y.
Please explain!
I’m a downtown boy. I’m not very fancy.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GIORGIO NIRO
I’ve always lived on the Lower East Side
or in the East Village. I guess I like the
juxtaposition with how I am and where
my head’s at.
Right now your head is focused on food...
Yeah, my mom’s philosophy is that you
should eat to live, but I live to eat. I was
exposed to all different cuisines as a kid.
My family is from Nepal, so I grew up
there, but I was born in Singapore and also
lived in India, London, and Australia. We
always had chicken with rice and lentils
and meals were heavy on vegetables and
beans. I didn’t realize it then, but my diet
was actually very well-balanced.
What’s a typical lunch like these days?
Elaborate. At Blass everyone would order a
salad or maybe a wrap, but my friends and
I would order these multicourse hot meals.
I didn’t want to feel bad about what I was
eating, so we would eat in the design room
and lock the door.
So you’re a pretty big eater?
My friends know to cook for “Prabal plus
one” even when I’m coming alone.
Favorite breakfast?
Bacon, egg, and cheese on a toasted roll.
All-time favorite dish?
Momos. They’re Tibetan-style dumplings.
If you were edible, what would you be?
Spicy tuna. It has a fresh, pink glow and a
little kick.
What city has the best food?
Paris. They have amazing Vietnamese, and
their Indian is up there, too. Brick Lane
Curry House right here in New York in the
East Village has this dish called phaal
that’s the spiciest thing I’ve ever had. On
the menu all it says is, “If you do manage to
finish your serving of curry, a bottle of beer is
on us.” I took one bite and couldn’t continue.
How spicy can you go?
I can get up there. I always drain the bottle
of hot sauce wherever I am. My mouth is
watering just talking about this.
How do you repent?
I usually go to the gym four or five days a
week and take two classes: the 30/60/90
class at Equinox and a Brazilian Butt Lift
class. I also lift weights and run.
Brazilian Butt Lift class?
There’s a lot of hip movement.
Do you cook at home?
Not in New York, but I love cooking when
I’m in Nepal. I want to say I’m good, but
I’m probably not. My most ambitious
project was Black Forest cake. I ended up
adding so much liquor that it turned into
something else entirely.
What’s your favorite post-dinner spot?
Sugarland in Brooklyn on Saturday nights.
Not everyone in fashion goes to Brooklyn,
but I love it there.
You’ve got moves?
I can hold my own.
Which songs get your blood pumping?
As soon as I hear the opening notes of
“Holiday,” I’m on the floor. I also love music
festivals. I went to Coachella a few summers ago and actually got to see Prince,
which was the highlight of my life. I’m
almost positive he was wearing Tory Burch.
Prabal’s Picks!
APPETIZER
LIQUITERIA, EAST VILLAGE
Gurung’s Grub: Extra-large “Berry
Powerful” smoothie with a protein
booster and a wheat grass shot
“I know it’s silly, but when everybody else gets obsessed with a
particular food, I can’t go near
it. Like gourmet yogurt or how
there’s always a line outside
Magnolia. I’m like, You’re going to
wait in line for a cupcake?
Seriously?”
ENTREE
LE JARDIN BISTRO, NOLITA
Gurung’s Grub: Tuna tartare and a
glass of Sancerre
“I can’t stand places that are
pretentious. Here it’s so warm,
relaxed, quaint, and homey. It’s
tough in New York to find places
like this. So often it’s just about
getting the table!”
DESSERT
SHANGHAI KITCHEN, CHINATOWN
Gurung’s Grub: Dumpling soup and
sautéed pea shoots with spicy sauce
“I love lemon and lime on anything, although I draw the line at
milk. You’re either a tarty person
or a sweet person. I’m a tart—but
not in every sense.”
SELF-HELP
ELP
Punching!
Shadowboxing with
It’s been a little over a year since Philly-bred designer
Ralph Rucci—America’s only legit couturier—got out of
therapy and into the ring, seeking solace in the sweet
science. He still has little patience for the indignities of
the modern fashion industry, but he’s punching his way
through the darkness. BY ASHLEY BAKER
How did you get into boxing?
It was a natural progression. My
trainer, Will Torres, works holistically,
so we started with weights, then
core strength, then boxing. I stopped
therapy a year ago. This takes its place.
What goes through your mind when
you’re in the ring?
Absolutely nothing.
Would you consider yourself an
aggressive person?
Absolutely. I wouldn’t have been in this
business for 30 years if I didn’t have a
certain level of aggression.
Has boxing made you a better
designer?
In some ways, yes. Will is my shrink
and my sounding board. He knows
everything about my work and my
private life, because I’m here every
morning working out my frustrations.
What’s been bothering you lately?
I haven’t yet broken through the barrier
of what this new season will be about.
I have these techniques in mind, but I
have no clarity. It’s very frustrating.
You’re the only American designer
with permission to call himself a
couturier. Does it ever get lonely?
It’s not a question of loneliness; it’s a
question of aloneness. My work is often
seen as too rarefied and uninclusive.
I wish that weren’t the case.
What about fashion people who toss
around the word couture as if it were
a synonym for expensive. Are they
just begging to get clocked?
It drives me absolutely insane, to
be honest. It’s taken generations to
develop a proper fashion vocabulary—
you can’t just make an expensive dress
and call it couture because it sounds
good! It’s about the designer and his
house and the techniques he’s used.
What about the rumored “end of
couture” everyone keeps yammering
on about?
JAB, CROSS, HOOK
Rucci’s threemove opus
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GIORGIO NIRO
There’s no such thing. As long as there’s
a woman who wants a custom dress
made, couture will keep going. It’s a
technique of dressmaking. Couture
shows are becoming advertising vehicles
to sell nail polish and lipstick.
Where does Chado Ralph Rucci fit into
the fashion industry?
I purposely stay away from trends and
the mainstream, because I like to push
myself and the boundaries I’ve already
discovered. Of course, this makes things
very, very difficult, because it prevents me
from ever being satisfied. But intellectual
stimulation is the most important part
of the job for me. So, how do I fit into the
fashion industry? I think my suggestions
are completely unto me. If you like
TRAINER TALK
So, Will, how long have you guys
been working out together?
Two and a half years. When we
started, his technique was a
little off, but he always had
conditioning and power.
What’s Ralph’s signature move?
The right hook.
Would you want to encounter
him in a dark alley?
Only if there were cops around.
Did Ralph’s boxing ability
surprise you?
He’s surprised me countless times.
Once we got his technique down,
he was so powerful in his lower
and upper body. That was exciting
to watch.
Could he ever box professionally?
He can certainly take a beating. I
could see him doing mixed martial
arts, for sure.
Ralph Rucci
❛
I don’t relate to
many people, really.
RUCCI ON
THE RUNWAY:
Five-figure
frock, anyone?
them, great. If you don’t, you don’t
have to choose them. I do this, first and
foremost, for my own evolution.
How are you currently evolving?
Well, we’re at a time socially when it’s
almost in bad taste to buy excessively. I
happen to make very expensive clothes,
and my audience doesn’t consider
cost. Never has. So I have two choices.
Either I can cater to my existing client
base to help me build the business—
which, let’s just say, is a woman of
a certain age with a great deal of
money—but eventually hit a brick
wall because there’s limited possibility.
Or I need to chase a more youthful
audience. The youthful audience has
bought into fashion suggestions that
are so unattractive, so unnecessarily
asexual, that I have to address them.
But how do I address them when
the clothing and the workmanship
R U N WAY: F I R S T V I E W
of the clothing will remain very,
very expensive? You don’t just get
a clientele that pays this kind of
money for clothes overnight. You
have to develop it over decades.
And the basis for that relationship
is…?
Trust! Trust must be there to
spend that much money on
clothes. My clothes are not
expensive because they’re
geared toward any specific
audience; they’re expensive
because of the techniques,
the workmanship and the
fabrication. It has nothing to
do with age, really. I don’t
consider at all whether
something is young or
old. In fact, when you use
such polarizing adjectives,
you better just jump out
a window because you’ve
lost it. You’re finished. Age is the
most misused concept in fashion.
It’s our number one fetish, really…
It’s an obsession that disallows
any objectivity, because most often
kids that are 19 and 20 years old,
they haven’t even had time to
develop any taste! They have no
education. They haven’t been exposed
to enough things.
Were you received differently when
you showed your collection in Paris?
Absolutely. The Europeans fully
embraced me. The first time I went
to Paris, in 2001, it was in response
to the enormous disappointment we
had from having no press coverage
whatsoever in the U.S. for decades. I
knew that if I took it to Europe there
would be a shake-up, and there was.
The Europeans understand that
couture is a craft.
Do you relate better to European
designers than to American ones?
I don’t know. I don’t relate to many
people, really. I have European
designers that are friends and American
designers that are friends. In both cases,
the friendships are not based on the
notion of designing women’s clothes.
What do you think of “fast fashion”?
It’s okay. I wear Levi Strauss jeans and
plain white T-shirts. Fast fashion is
perfect for what it is.
But it’s safe to say it’s something
Ralph Rucci would never do…
The name designer that makes
couture doing a line for H&M? Totally
ludicrous. It would be like making a
Birkin bag out of clear plastic.
You’re fun! Why has the American
press denied you your due?
That’s a big, big question. But the
answer should come not from me
but from others. I say what I think.
And, um, I’ve always talked about—
I can’t go there. Let’s just say I say
what I think.
You also paint in your spare time.
Are you a painter first and a boxer
second?
I also use the painting as a
psychiatric exercise because I
stopped seeing shrinks.
Has it proved fruitful?
It’s essential, because I don’t think
about anyone liking my paintings,
or buying them. It’s just me and the
canvas trying to get past something or
understand something.
What would you buy first: a Rucci
painting or a Rucci dress?
Well, if I were in that position I’d
already have rooms full of Joseph
Beuys and Cy Twomblys, so I guess
I’d buy a dress.
What would you like to come back as
in your next life?
Incense in a church.
How will you be remembered?
That’s a frightening question.
SELF-HELP
Tennis!
The Daily
M
A
SL
Because no one should ever have to choose between
Fashion Week and the U.S. Open, we invited Hilary Rhoda
and Jelena Jankovic to face off on the court. Though Hilary
got her behind handed to her, as expected, they sure were
fun to watch! The final score: 6-0.
BY VALENTINE UHOVSKI
The Daily : To be fair, Hilary, you were
at a bit of a disadvantage. How did
you prepare for the match?
Hilary Rhoda: I grew up playing during
the summer and recently hired a pro in
Westchester so I could start practicing
seriously again. Not that it helped!
The Daily : What was it like playing
against Jelena?
Hilary: Incredible, but I’m pretty sure she
went easy on me.
Jelena Jankovic: In tennis we all have our
strengths and weaknesses. Your forehand
is actually pretty good! But it’s not like it’s
your full-time job. It’s a completely different thing. We run around like crazy on
the court and sweat all over the place, but
models have their own stuff to deal with.
The Daily : Has Jelena inspired you to improve your game, Hilary?
Hilary: Of course! When you play
against someone who’s that much better
than you, you’re shamed into working
harder. I need to improve everything!
The Daily : You both essentially live on
airplanes. How do you stay sane?
Jelena: Every week I’m in some weird
city. I wake up in the morning and call a
friend, and she asks me, “Where are you
right now?” I get confused sometimes.
Switzerland, Germany… Sometimes you
don’t know what time it is or where anything is. All the other girls on the tour are
so strong, though, so I have to keep up.
Hilary: I’m lucky. I can pass out anywhere—especially on planes.
Jelena: I can’t do that. Sometimes I’m so
exhausted it’s impossible to sleep.
Hilary: What do you do to train?
Jelena: I don’t work out as much as some
of the other players. I don’t like to be
bulky, because it’s not good for movement. I do a lot of light weights and agilPHOTOGRAPHS BY GIORGIO NIRO
ity exercises. I like to look feminine on the court.
The Daily : You’re both quite close
to your mothers, right?
Hilary: Jelena’s mom is here, and mine
wanted to be here to root for me too, but
her plane from Baltimore got canceled
three times. She’s everything to me. She’s
my manager. She moved to New York
with me when I was 18.
Jelena: Same with my mom. I travel
with her all the time. She just had
surgery and missed some of my tournaments, and it was really weird not
having her in the box.
The Daily : What did you two want to be
when you were kids?
Hilary: I had major veterinarian aspirations.
Jelena: I played piano and tennis, but I
never dreamed of being a top player. It
was like a miracle that fell from the sky. I
even studied rhythmic gymnastics; that’s
why I can do splits on the court! I’ve also
loved acting since I was a little kid. In the
future, I’d like to have my own show. But
I’m only 24 years old, so I have at least
four or five years left on the court. Or
maybe I’ll just stay home and do nothing when I retire!
The Daily : What was your last major
purchase?
Jelena: I’m buying stuff all the
time. Right now I’m renovating
a ranch house in San Diego. It
needs a gym, a theater and a tennis court, of course.
Hilary: I just closed on a
house in Southampton. I’ve
only been there a couple
of times, but my mom is
helping me decorate. I
wouldn’t know where to
begin.
The Daily : Jelena, what’s your fashion
fantasy?
Jelena: I love watching the models on
the runway. I want to know their walking secrets. I want to know how they
stay balanced. I’d be way too embarrassed to walk the runway. I’d probably
fall off!
The Daily : What do you think about
when you’re working, Hilary?
Hilary: When I started, I felt a little bit
awkward in front of the camera. But
then it all became second nature. With
the runway I just look forward and pretend no one is staring at me.
Jelena: At the amfAR gala in Cannes I
wore this long dress, but I was terrified
of walking the red carpet in it. I thought
I might rip it or something. And these
Fashion Week catwalks are sometimes
made out of glass or plastic or I don’t
know what! Then again, you’d probably
be scared of walking out at Arthur Ashe
Stadium in front of 20,000 people with
millions more watching on TV.
The Daily : You stay on Long Island during
the Open, right?
Jelena: Yes. I love the city, but I don’t
like the traffic. It drives me insane!
Hilary: I have a car in the city and
deal with it all the time. You just
have to plan ahead. Are you going
to Fashion Week?
Jelena: I was invited, so if I stay in
the city long enough, I will.
The Daily : Who are your favorite
designers?
Hilary: So many: Marc Jacobs, Zac
Posen…
Jelena: I like Marc too. But
Zac who? I’ll have to remember
that one!
T R O P H Y: G E T T Y
❛
We run
around like
crazy on the
court and sweat
all over the
place, but
models have
their own stuff
to deal with.
MATCHY MATCHY
Hilary and
Jelena bond
at the CityView
Racquet Club.
T
N
U
O
C
S
I
D TI O N
EDI
SELF-HELP
Daily Intervention!
Designers in Crisis
You’re not the only one feeling cheap! Inside fashion’s mental markdown.
BY EMILY POPP AND KATHARINE ZARRELLA
THE JEWELRY MAVERICK
THE UPTOWN DRESSMAKER
THE ECO-CHICSTER
Would you say your stuff is expensive?
Yes.
Why is that?
If you’re going to put a price on value, then it’s
going to be high. If you want less value, then it
won’t be as high. Value is expensive.
How are these constant sales making you feel?
It’s a part of the process, but obviously I don’t feel
great about them. I recognize the other side of it
from the store’s perspective, but no, they’re not
something I want or desire.
Do you shop sales yourself?
Hell, yeah. I’m always on the lookout for sales. I’m
not ashamed of it. Who doesn’t like sales? I don’t
always go straight for the discounted racks, but I
always look through them.
Have you ever seen a 70%-off tag on one of your
own pieces?
I’ve never seen my jewelry discounted, but if it ever
came to that my first thought would be that it’s a
style that I should never make again.
Do sales make you anxious or depressed?
I try not to take these things to heart. It’s not
personal.
Should there be a moratorium on sales?
I want to see everything appreciated for its full
market value. But no sales sounds un-American.
Tell us about your first visit to Century 21.
I was invited by a friend who was one of their
vendors, so I got an extra 50% off, if you can even
imagine. I was overwhelmed by the sense of urgency to get rid of the stuff. It just reminded me that
fashion is super-temporal.
You mean ephemeral?
Yes.
Have you gone back?
Absolutely not.
So you’d rather pay retail?
Yes. Chaos is not something I seek out.
Would you say your stuff is expensive?
Yes and no. I actually consider it to be very well
priced considering the quality and detail. That’s
helping us right now. I mean, only one or two
percent of the population can afford our price
point, but the ones who can are okay with it.
What other factors contribute to your price point?
All our fabrics are European. And the laborers, of
course. They’re expensive.
How are these constant sales making you feel?
I’m fine with them. That’s what stores do. But
they seem to be putting stuff on sale earlier and
earlier to try to get the customers to come in. The
problem is that the customers get so used to everything going on sale that they wait until it does.
The more that happens, the fewer designers will
be able to survive.
Have you ever seen a 70%-off tag on one of your
own dresses?
I’ve seen things of mine on eBay for $89 that
retailed for $800!
Do you ever shop sales incognito?
Not exactly undercover, but I do love getting deals,
especially on shoes and handbags.
For what will you always pay retail?
Fresh produce.
Do sales make you anxious or depressed?
If you end up with only one or two pieces on the
sale rack, it’s not so bad. But if you have several,
particularly of the same style, you need to learn
from that experience.
Tell us about your first visit to Century 21.
I’ve lived in New York for 19 years. I went to
Century 21 for the first time when I had been here
about two months. I’m trying to remember… I’ve
gotten some really good stuff there over the years—
Marc Jacobs, Mizrahi. I also got some really great
things I never wore but only bought because they
were so cheap.
Would you say your stuff is expensive?
No.
Why not?
Other designers pay for publicists and salespeople
and showrooms and insurance and rent and overpriced fabrics. I don’t.
How do you feel when you see one of your designs
on a sale rack?
I feel like throwing up. It doesn’t happen often, but
it really does depress me. You sort of just want to
make it disappear. It’s like, what did I do wrong?
Sometimes I didn’t do anything wrong; it was just
too soon. Maybe it was a high-waisted pant, but it
was winter, and this was before Spring 2007, when
they really wanted it. Sometimes styles are ahead of
their time. But going forward I think you’ll see less
and less of my clothing on sale, because we’re producing less of it. Fixing the supply-and-demand. At
least, that’s the goal.
Do you shop sales yourself?
I like Acne, but I prefer to pay full price. If something’s on sale, to me it means it’s not good.
Should there be a moratorium on sales?
No. But they should be calendared, the way
Anna said at the big CFDA meeting last month.
Collectively as an industry we should suggest that
all the sales be held until winter, after New Year’s.
[Editor’s note: As DVF pointed out at the same meeting, such a move would violate antitrust laws.] It’s
really Calvin’s fault. He started delivering winter
coats at the end of March! Faster, faster, faster,
sooner, sooner, sooner. We all followed, all of us little
people in the ’80s. Everyone except Donna. Donna’s
always been about delivering stuff when it’s needed.
She’s a brilliant lady.
Tell me about your first visit to Century 21.
I’ve never been, but I went to Daffy’s once. It made me
sick to my stomach. They had a few decent pieces and
the rest was just junk.
S H U T T E R S T O C K (8)
RUNWAY
Spring 2010
VENA CAVA
Lisa Mayock and Sophie
Buhai once again managed
to translate their potentially
indecipherable message into
accessible, beautiful clothes
that cool girls love to wear.
Leather jeans got a fresh
twist in navy, whimsical prints
were grounded with cozy
cardigans, and the simple
black dress got a woven
embellished neckline.
BCBGMAX AZRIA
Print may have been the theme of the BCBG
show—which went all the way to rock star
sophistication via abstract expressionism
sm
à la Pollock—but the designer’s great
accomplishment was delivering a new and
wickedly attractive jersey. Fusing structure
and fluidity, he made delicately draped
dresses with harsh edges and architectural
shoulders and necklines, and an unexpected
white crepe and jersey blocked frock that
simply stole the show.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GIORGIO NIRO
“O NE OF THE MOST DEEPLY
MOVING ROMANTIC FILMS
IN MEMORY.”
SELF-HELP
Surviving!
KENNETH TURAN,
”THIS...TALE OF PASSION...
LOOKS TO BE CAMPION’S
MOST POPULAR FILM
SINCE ‘THE PIANO’.”
JOHN POWERS,
“SEDUCTIVE PLEASURE.”
KAREN DURBIN,
“A POTENT REMINDER
OF ROMANCE.”
CARYN JAMES,
“SUMPTUOUSLY
PHOTOGRAPHED
LOVE STORY.”
HetoaBveteseny!s
Do you want to be Nicolas Ghesquière or
not? We asked fashion’s reigning contract
queen, consultant Betsey Pearce, to tell
us what she tells the countless struggling
designers who beg her for business
advice each year. In a stunning act of
Fashion Week charity, she laid down her
commandments and didn’t even charge us!
Listen and ye shall be saved… BY ASHLEY BAKER
MANOHLA DARGIS,
1. THERE ARE MORE
IMPORTANT THINGS THAN
BEING FAMOUS
“Your job is not only to decide what
pieces your customer will need
next season but to determine the
direction of fashion itself. That
takes work. As in you-sitting-alonewith-a-sketchbook-until-six-inthe-morning-for-a-month-straight
work. Yes, it’s important to be
recognized, but it’s also important
to understand that—appearances
to the contrary—fashion is about
connecting with customers and
moving product. If you want to get
serious, stay home.
2. YOU’RE A DESIGNER—WHY
AREN’T YOU DESIGNING?
“Yes, a good small company is
generally made up of a few hardworking, highly capable individuals
who wear a bunch of different hats.
But way too many young designers
spend only one or two percent
of their time actually designing.
As the business becomes more
complex every year, each of those
areas needs specific expertise. But
the most important element is
always your designs. Without them
you’ve got nothing.”
3. SCHOOL YOUR INVESTORS
IN THE REALITIES OF THE
BUSINESS
“If you have friends or family or
a really nice grandma, it’s easy to
borrow money. But you may get
to a point where, just to stay alive,
you’re forced to take investment
money in return for a hopefullynot-too-large stake in your
company. But resist the temptation
to take the money and run. Your
C O U R T E S Y B E T S Y P E A R C E ; S H U T T E R S T O C K ( 2)
EXCLUSIVE ENGAGEMENTS START SEPTEMBER 16
investors need to understand that
fashion is not a three-to-five-year
play with guaranteed returns. It’s
a risk, but with massive potential
upside. That way, no one can
whine or sue you if things go south.
Though they probably will anyway.”
4. IDENTIFY YOUR GOALS AND
MAKE SURE EVERYONE ON
YOUR TEAM SHARES THEM
“Arrangements don’t last when
there’s a rift between the designer
and management. A designer may
take advantage of valuable resources
without thinking about the longterm objectives of the company, or
management may not provide the
tools a designer needs to really do
a good job. The latter tends to be
more common than the former,
unfortunately.”
5. TRADITIONAL ADVERTISING
IS THE LEAST EFFECTIVE
WAY TO MOVE YOUR BRAND
FORWARD
“I love fashion magazines, but
the cost benefit of putting ads in
them for young designers is so
much less than what you can do
with effective marketing and PR,
which requires cleverness, not
cash. Print ads may add awareness,
but they don’t make a real dent in
your sales. The most important
media for young designers is a
combination of clever, cutting-edge
interactive, and strategic PR. It
doesn’t have to cost a lot.”
6. ACCEPT THAT FASHION IS
IRRATIONAL
“It’s not economical for buyers to
go in, see goods and then order
20 of these, 70 of those. In an
industry where the product lines
are reinvented every quarter,
orders are filled on spec. But the
nature of luxury goods is that
they’re very hard to make and
require serious craftsmanship.
Together, these two factors make
for an inherently irrational
business model. The best advice
I’ve heard is to try to maintain a
balance between affordable pieces
and true one-of-a-kinds. One
store owner who has managed
to stay afloat told me he’s
maintained the same proportion
between affordable and standout
pieces, because his customer
expects him to provide them.
Brands that have a wow factor are
going to benefit.”
7. KNOW THAT THIS TOO SHALL
PASS
“The downturn right now is
completely unpredictable. Most
nascent brands—whether they’re
in the $5–$15 million range or
the $20–$50 million range—will
require another injection of capital
before this is over or else will grow
very, very slowly. The companies
that will be successful when this is
over are nimble and optimistic.”
8. RESIST TUNNEL VISION
“Successful managers know that
they don’t know everything. It’s
easy for all of us to tackle the
things at which we are most
competent and put the rest out
of mind. But the designers
that are going to succeed
are vigilant and
prepared to adjust to
whatever tomorrow
brings.”
Daily
London Fog peacoat
WHERE:
www.londonfog.com
WHY: From an iconic brand with a rich
and enduring heritage, this sophisticated
peacoat will take you from day to night.
Made from dark-gray flannel wool, the doublebreasted coat comes with elegant silver buttons and a belted
waist. What more do you need during Fashion Week?
PRICE:
WHAT:
$119
DHL scarf
WHERE:
Always in style, DHL employees, who come
from more than 220 countries and territories,
dress in the latest fashion accessories as part of
their daily corporate wear. Catch a glimpse of the
custom-designed scarves used worldwide as you
roam around Bryant Park during Mercedes-Benz
Fashion Week.
Donna Karan Eldridge bag
WHERE:
www.trytyku.com
The Tents at Bryant Park
WHY:
WHAT:
TY KU Soju
WHERE:
WHAT:
www.bergdorfgoodman.com
For the bohemian who still wants to be
polished, the Eldridge bag echoes her textured
life in black and metallic leather or metallic haircalf. The bag can be worn four different ways:
cross-body messenger, open tote, buttoned-up
bucket, or buttoned-down pouchette.
WHY:
Launching this month, TY KU is the only
soju to ever win the Five Star Diamond Award—no
wonder, with celebs like Lady GaGa and Ne-Yo
indulging in this chic spirit. It’s 100 percent natural
with no additives or preservatives and has only onethird of the calories of vodka. Now that’s something
to toast to!
WHY:
PRICE:
$1,495
“ D A I LY A D D I C T I O N S ” I S A S P E C I A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G S E C T I O N
ready, willing
&
marketable
Why are Berkeley College interns and graduates in such high demand?
Berkeley College interns and graduates are better qualified to join your workforce because of the sum total of student benefits,
®
unique among colleges and universities, that only Berkeley College offers…The Berkeley Advantage .
Student training goes far beyond the classroom:
• Taught in small classes by experienced faculty who work in today’s industries.
• Mandatory internships related to their programs of study are required of all students.
• Advisory Boards provide suggestions and recommendations, particularly regarding curriculum content, that keep students
abreast of the latest marketplace needs.
• A consistently high graduate employment rate year after year in the students‘ fields of study.
Berkeley students bring pro-active, professional attitudes to the business world, first as interns, and then as hard-working, enthusiastic, full-time
employees. Graduates possess the industry-related knowledge and experience so necessary in today’s demanding business market.
Find out how ready, willing, and able
our interns and graduates are.
Call Sandy Cohen at:
212-986-4343, ext. 1-4167.
Email: [email protected]
BerkeleyCollege.edu • [email protected]
NY: New York City (Midtown and Lower Manhattan) • White Plains
NJ: Newark • Paramus • Woodbridge • West Paterson (formerly West Paterson)
BERKELEY COLLEGE ONLINE: BerkeleyCollege.edu/Online
Photo Credits: Courtesy of London Fog, Courtesy of DHL, Courtesy of TY KU, Courtesy of Donna Karan
WHAT:
s
n
o
i
t
c
i
d
d
A
SELF-HELP
Pharma-chic!
MR.
KLONOPIN
Has
His
Moment
Just in time for Fashion Week,
the Daily sits down with the industry’s
wonder drug du jour.
BY ASHLEY BAKER
You’re a schedule IV narcotic prescribed to
So you work the same way Valium does?
treat epileptic seizures. Why the sudden
I take a bit longer to metabolize, but I stay in
o?
log
y
rfl
tte
bu
popularity among the fashion set?
your system for ages.
“A
LUNESTA:
?”
rn
ico
un
As I’m sure you know, I’m also great for
So you’re addictive?
a
Seriously? Why not
y
treating panic disorder and general anxiety.
What isn’t, honey? You say it like I’m
all
u re
XANAX: “So ’90s. Do yo
There’s a lot of that going around lately.
Fen-Phen! Think of me the way you think
by
want to take a pill abused
You don’t say! I hear people mention your
of rosé. We actually target the exact same
Michael Jackson?”
name literally every other day. You’re the
pleasure centers in the human brain.
don’t
le
op
pe
t
os
“M
:
TA
Josephine de la Baume of prescription
Really?
NA
SO
.”
ks
an
th
,
ht
nig
a
sedatives!
I don’t know. Some doctor told me that.
s
need 12 hour
ht
nig
elat
What can I tell you? It’s dark out there.
What about your side effects?
e
AMBIEN: “If you lik
But how did you get so fabulous? You’re not
Drowsiness, dizziness, short-term memory loss—all
th
wi
KFC runs and having sex
somebody’s kid, are you?
things most fashion types would find desirable. Some
strangers, it’s awesome.”
I wish! Luck and timing, basically. I’ve actually
people experience a loss of libido, which is fine since I
g off my
MELATONIN: “I’m takin
been FDA-approved for years now, but in the
hear you are too busy to have sex.
er.”
ov
is
w
vie
er
int
is
Th
.
last few years a lot of patients have developed
What are the most common reasons you’re
ike
m
“immunities” to several of my competitors.
prescribed?
Rebranding myself as an “alterna-Valium”
Everything from deadline-related agita to collection
seems to have done the trick. Also, fashion
envy to borderline personality disorder. I’ve found there are
people like to control their feelings and
few situations in life that can’t be improved by wrapping one’s mind in a
are always looking for the cool new whatever.
thin layer of gauze.
Right now, that’s me.
Who are your biggest fans?
But there must be something else to it…
Usually it’s the ones with the nicest offices, but it takes all types. There
To be honest, I’ve been thinking about this a lot
are plenty of laid-off receptionists with a taste for moi.
lately. Maybe it has something to do with exclusivity? And who are your main competitors?
I’m pretty press-shy. I don’t pitch myself to the
Sound mental health…a calm, centered lifestyle…living outside New York
Today show or run cheesy ads on Lifetime. That’s City…yoga. Also, Adderall.
important to people of taste. Oh, and my price
Who needs you most?
point’s pretty high. My generic stepbrother,
Mario Grauso, for starters. Call me, dude! Kidding. Not really… Fashion
clonazepam, is covered by insurance, but
publicists around show time.
I’m certainly not! Needless to say, he
Okay, who doesn’t?
doesn’t share my refined aesthetic.
Olivier Theyskens.
KLONOPIN ON…