Bull Rising - Greater Durham Chamber of Commerce

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Bull Rising
Durham’s journey from hard times to hip
Chris Hildreth
Durham Convention & Visitors Bureau
Durham scene
American Tobacco Campus
BullRising
By Eric Ferreri
A decade of redevelopment has breathed life
into downtown Durham. But the city’s remarkable
turnaround is about more than bricks and mortar.
24
www.dukemagazine.duke.edu
Moments after Brad Brinegar told the staff
of McKinney advertising agency that it
would be moving from Raleigh to
Durham, six employees came to him
with some version of the same question:
“Why are you giving me a death sentence?”
Brinegar, McKinney’s CEO, understood the concern. This was 2003, and
Durham hardly had a stellar reputation.
The city’s center was a ramshackle version of its once-vibrant self. The redbrick tobacco warehouses that had
pumped life into the city’s economy had
fallen silent years earlier, when cigarette
production moved out of town. Huge
Chris Hildreth
Heather Jacks and Durham Convention and Visitors Bureau
Golden Belt
Brightleaf Square
Greater Durham Chamber of Commerce papers, oversize, David M. Rubenstein Rare Book & Manuscript Library, Duke University, Durham, North Carolina.
The way we were: Panoramic 1925 photo of downtown shows W.T. Blackwell and Company factory and American Tobacco Company manufacturing plant, left; the twin steeples of Duke Memorial
Church and the Liggett & Myers plant in the center distance; and a cluster of buildings near the intersection of Main and Corcoran streets, including the Durham Loan & Trust Building, Washington Duke
Hotel, and U.S. post office.
swaths of downtown were vacant and in
disrepair. It seemed the only thing that
earned downtown Durham headlines in
those days was its high crime rate.
The site Brinegar had chosen for his
company was the granddaddy of those broken-down buildings, a decaying former
American Tobacco cigarette factory that
had been empty for more than a decade.
Sandwiched between a car dealership and
the then-eight-year-old Durham Bulls
Athletic Park and just off the heavily traveled Durham Freeway, the warehouse was
an unmistakable eyesore whose blight had
become a symbol for downtown Durham’s
struggles. It sat close enough to the ball-
park that a particularly well-struck foul
ball might shatter a warehouse window—
not that many were left by the early 2000s.
Its insides had been unattended for so long
that when construction workers began gutting it, they found trees growing within
the walls. In some places, the floors were
covered ankle-deep with pigeon droppings.
If you’ve been away from Durham for a
while, you very well might not believe
what you see today at the American Tobacco complex. Eight years after its reopening, the former cigarette factory has
become a poster child for mixed-use urban
redevelopment, a sprawling, eye-catching
collection of restaurants, bars, offices, and
shops that, along with several other new
projects in the area that followed its lead,
has brought about a stunning rebirth of
Durham’s core. In many of those renovated
spaces, innovative new businesses are taking root, fueling Durham’s surprising new
standing as a vibrant, hip center of entrepreneurial activity. A burgeoning restaurant scene—once dominated by fried
chicken and burgers—has caught the attention of critics at The New York Times,
who last year placed Durham on a list of
“41 Places to Go in 2011.” (Locals point
out with glee that Durham was mentioned
right between Iraqi Kurdistan and
Kosovo.)
DUKE MAGAZINE
March-April 2012
25
In less than a decade, downtown
Durham has turned from a place best
avoided at night to a destination where
growing numbers of people flock to work,
eat, or take in a game or a concert.
But this renaissance didn’t come easily.
Durham Convention & Visitors Bureau
body saw a particular reason for the university as such to get involved.”
The collapse of the city’s tobacco industry
underscored that separateness. In the 1990s,
as Duke’s star was rising, Durham’s was
falling. American Tobacco pulled out of the
city in 1987. Liggett & Myers followed in
2000, leaving several square miles of downtown virtually dormant. Shops pulled out
’84 arrived at
of downtown and headed for the suburbs.
Office buildings went unrented. Downtown began to
feel like a ghost town.
In 1996, Duke formed the
Duke-Durham Neighborhood Partnership, a flagship
initiative of then-President
Nannerl O. Keohane to formalize the university’s stake
in Durham. Now run by
Duke’s Office of Durham and
Regional Affairs, the partnership has sparked programs to
aid local schools, improve access to health care, and boost
home ownership in the twelve
neighborhoods surrounding
the campus.
Around the same time, interest in downtown renewal
was gathering steam. Duke
leased space in West Village,
an office, retail, and housing
project just off the downtown
loop that was championed by
former basketball players
Christian Laettner ’92 and
Brian Davis ’92. Jim Goodmon, president of Raleighbased Capitol Broadcasting,
built Diamond View, an office
building overlooking the
Durham Bulls ballpark. But
Goodmon had his eyes on a
bigger prize—the American
Revival: The renovated American Tobacco Campus now features restaurants, an amphitheater, offices, and
Tobacco complex across the
“Bull River,” a quarter-mile-long river walk.
street.
CIVIL COEXISTENCE
When Mike Schoenfeld
Duke as a student in
1980, Durham was a
small, sleepy Southern city
where Duke happened to
be located. The city ran on
tobacco; its downtown infrastructure of factories
and warehouses churned
out Pall Mall, Lucky
Strike, and Chesterfield
cigarettes, fueling the
city’s economy and filling
its air with the wafting
smell of processed tobacco.
But the lives of Durham’s
mostly middle-class residents and Duke students
rarely intersected. Students might occasionally
mingle with residents over
barbecue at Bullock’s or
fried chicken at Pete Rinaldi’s. Hartman’s Steakhouse on Geer Street was
long a popular haunt. But
when they sought entertainment, they tended to
venture out of town, remembers Schoenfeld, now
Duke’s vice president for
public affairs and government relations.
“The idea of off-campus
fun was driving to Chapel
Hill, which actually felt
like a college town,” he
says. “You lived in Durham,
lived in Durham and participated in its
civic life. And there were small-scale efforts
at town/gown partnerships. In the 1940s,
for example, Duke Chapel helped residents
of East Durham after a cotton mill went
belly up. Two decades later, medical students set up a clinic in Edgemont, one of
Durham’s decaying neighborhoods.
But institutionally, Duke largely kept to
itself, recalls Jim Wise ’70, a Raleigh News
If you’ve been away from Durham for a while, you very well might not believe
what you see today at the American Tobacco complex.
26
www.dukemagazine.duke.edu
& Observer reporter who has written three
books about Durham and its history. “Duke
was pretty much its own place,” he says.
“Individual faculty or staff members would
get involved, join the Kiwanis Club or run
for city council, or get involved with the
public library or the choral society. But no-
Initially, many were skeptical of Goodmon’s plan. “We finally realized this was
the one good shot to get something going
Downtown bound: American Tobacco Campus’ “On the Lawn”
series draws crowds for live music, movies, dance performances, and festivals.
Chris Hildreth
but there was relatively little to make you
feel like you were in a city.”
That’s how it was for much of Duke’s history. While the university had a mostly
friendly relationship with its host city, it
was a relatively separate coexistence. Of
course, many faculty and staff members
NEW:
a Durham Station: Opened in July
free Bull City Connecter, which connects
downtown, Duke, and Ninth Street.
(601 W. Main St.)
2009 in the historic Walker Warehouse to serve as a transportation port for
the area. Led to the creation of the fare-
b Durham Farmers’ Market:
Relocated in 2006 to the pavilion at
Central Park on Foster Street, the market—
with its more than 60 vendors—is open
every Saturday. (501 Foster St.)
c Durham Bulls Athletic Park: The
ballpark has undergone a series of
on-field and structural renovations since
its inaugural game in 1995 and now has
seating-capacity for 10,000. It will host the
2012 Triple-A National Championship
Game. (409 Blackwell St.)
Durham Performing Arts Center:
d The 2,800-seat theater was opened
.
h St
Nint
.
Blvd
t.
dS
Broa
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eg
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Upgrade: The Reed Building, part of the
American Tobacco Campus, now houses the
Cuban Revolution restaurant and national
advertising agency McKinney.
St.
ke
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th
Nor
Ben Casey and American Tobacco
in 2008 and is host to Broadway productions, stand-up comedy, and come summertime, the American Dance Festival.
(123 Vivian St.)
DUKE EAST CAMPUS
West Main St
reet
a
b
147
Erwin Rd.
k
a Chubby’s Tacos: Authentic
Mexican restaurant uses
local and organic ingredients. The
menu includes a tilapia burrito
that will change your life.
(748 Ninth St.)
Ox & Rabbit: Opened in
b 2008 in the storefront where
McDonald's Drugstore used to be,
this old-fashioned soda and sundries shop will concoct a milkshake,
soda, malt, or egg crème while you
explore the shop full of quirky
housewares, souvenirs, and books.
(732 Ninth St.)
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Looking up: The historic Lucky Strike water tower serves
as a focal point for the American Tobacco Campus.
c Parker and Otis: Part café,
part gift shop, the busy market offers sandwiches, candy, and
gourmet items with outdoor patio
seating. (112 S. Duke St.)
d Piedmont: Dedicated to
local
ingredients, this elegantly casual
restaurant offers contemporary
American cuisine from a menu that
changes daily. (401 Foster St.)
e Toast: Quirky and delicious
Italian paninoteca, opened
in 2007. Combines locally grown
produce with meats and cheese
imported from Italy. Voted
Durham’s favorite healthy meal in
a 2011 survey by the Convention &
www.dukemagazine.duke.edu
Ben Casey and American Tobacco
FOOD:
.
Swift Ave
DUKE CENTRAL CAMPUS
Hill
apel
W Ch
St.
c
IMPROVED:
a Smith Warehouse: Former tobacco
warehouse adjacent to Duke’s
East Campus was renovated in 2011 and
now houses several Duke arts and
humanities programs.
(114 S. Buchanan Blvd.)
c West Village: The first redevelopment project in downtown
Durham’s revitalization, the complex is
home to office space, retailers, and
apartments. (N. Duke St. between W.
Morgan St. and Fernway Ave.)
b Brightleaf Square: Formerly a
string of tobacco storage warehouses, Brightleaf has since been rededicated as a downtown district lined with
restaurants and retailers. (N. Gregson St.
between W. Main St. and W. Peabody St.)
American Tobacco Campus: It lay
d dormant for many years after
the departure of the tobacco companies.
Now, following serious renovations that ended in 2004, it has
been reopened as a downtown
district to dine, shop, and work.
(Blackwell St. between Wallard
St. and W. Pettigrew St.)
TO DO:
a American Tobacco Trail:
Newly constructed twenty-twomile bicycle trail turns an empty rail bed
and a tobacco legacy into a place for
healthy exercise. (7616 Fayetteville Rd.)
industrial plants. Popular with artists,
teachers, and theater groups looking
to make creative reuse of empty fire
extinguishers and yards of double-knit
polyester.
Scrap Exchange: Recycling
d
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b
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g
f
h
d
c
Roxboro St.
d
Blackwell
St.
f
Something old, something new: American Tobacco Campus’ Washington
Building was in a state of severe disrepair, including collapsed roofs in spaces
once used to store tobacco leaf.
b
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Alston Av
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East Main Street
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Ben Casey and American Tobacco
t.
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a
scavenge materials discarded by
c
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gs
Ri
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b center where locals
a
Visitors Bureau. (345 W. Main St.)
Dame’s Chicken & Waffles: Soul
f food mecca that pairs crispy
chicken with crunchewy waffles (sweet
potato is a fave) and schmears of sweet
flavored butters. (317 W. Main St.)
g Tyler’s Taproom: Classic American
bar/restaurant in the heart of the
American Tobacco complex serves a
selection of more than sixty craft and
speciality import beers.
(324 Blackwell St.)
(107 W. Main St.)
i Scratch: A friendly local bakery
that specializes in artisan baking
with a focus on pies, cakes, and custom
desserts. (111 Orange St.)
j Reliable Cheese Company: Cut-to-
order cheese shop offers a selection of cheeses from small producers in
the U.S. and Europe. They also sell sandwiches, charcuterie, bread, and speciality
grocery items. (405 E. Chapel Hill St.)
ENTERTAINMENT:
Manbites Dog Theater: Nonprofit
a theater company focuses on new
and challenging theatrical events that
nurture developing artists and
entertainers. (703 Foster St.)
b The Carolina Theatre: Presents
live performances and thoughtprovoking film, including Oscar-nominated live-action shorts and animated
short films. (309 W. Morgan St.)
Food Trucks: More than 45 swarm
h Revolution: Chef Jim Anile’s trendy
restaurant focuses on culinary
creativity, with TV monitors broadcasting
kitchen action to the dining room.
k the area, popping up at locations
throughout the city. Favorites include:
Bulkogi Korean BBQ, OnlyBurger, and
Parlez-vous Crepe. But to find one, you’ll
Fullsteam Brewery: Brewmeisters
d here strive to create a “distinctly
Southern beer style” that celebrates the
culinary and agricultural diversity and
history of the region.
(726 Rigsbee Ave.)
e Whiskey: A private club/bar that
offers specialty liquors, cocktails,
and cigars. (347 W. Main St.)
The Pinhook: Popular music
c Motorco: A short walk from the
downtown area, this music hall
and bar hosts live music and local
events. (723 Rigsbee Ave.)
f venue for local bands, excellent
DJs, trivia nights, and low-key chilling
out. (117 Main St.)
DUKE MAGAZINE
March-April 2012
29
Durham Convention & Visitors Bureau
at American Tobacco—the big, ugly eyesore,” says Tallman Trask III, Duke’s executive vice president. “Duke isn’t going
anywhere, and the deterioration of downtown was not beneficial to us.”
Duke couldn’t do much on its own, nor
did it want to. The university preferred
not to buy property outright because as a
nonprofit it would be exempt from property taxes, meaning the city would lose the
potential tax revenue from the space. And
as much as its leaders agreed with the aims
of redevelopment, Duke isn’t in the development business. “We don’t want downtown Durham to be downtown Duke,”
says Scott Selig M.B.A. ’92, Duke’s associate vice president for capital assets. “That
wouldn’t be interesting. We wanted an
eclectic place with a broad economic base.”
York Wilson
Durham Convention & Visitors Bureau
Culinary destinations: Durham boasts a wide range of eating options including Guglhupf Bakery, a growing fleet of food trucks, and the James Beard Award-winning Magnolia Grill, clockwise from top.
Ultimately, Duke agreed to lease 100,000
square feet at American Tobacco, but it
waited to sign the lease until three for-profit
companies had signed on for an equal share
of space. That strategy proved helpful in convincing McKinney—which makes ads for
national clients such as Nationwide insurance and Sherwin-Williams and gave birth
to the Travelocity “Roaming Gnome”—to
take the leap. McKinney CEO Brinegar says
when employees raised concerns about safety,
he pointed to Duke. “Duke can’t afford it
being unsafe for its own people,” he told his
workers. “They have to make it safe, or they
have a big problem.”
30
www.dukemagazine.duke.edu
McKinney soon was joined at American
Tobacco by Glaxo and Compuware, a software company run by Peter Karmanos,
who also owns the Carolina Hurricanes
hockey team. Glaxo has since left, but
McKinney and Compuware are still there,
along with about sixty other ventures.
The rebirth of the American Tobacco
campus may be the highest-profile redevelopment project in Durham, but it’s far
from the only one. In the past decade, several other warehouses and rundown buildings have been rehabilitated, giving rise to
dozens of new bars and restaurants and an
explosion of downtown residential spaces.
The number of people who call downtown
home has risen from just 200 in the mid1990s to more than 1,500 today. Many
live in retrofitted lofts that take advantage
of the old tobacco warehouses’ quirky industrial architecture.
Duke’s footprint stretches through all
this progress. In addition to West Village
and American Tobacco, the university has
50,000 square feet of space at Brightleaf
Square, a commercial development off
Main Street, and houses 500 employees on
six floors of the Durham Centre, a fifteenstory building across from the Carolina
Theatre. In all, Duke now has at least
1,800 employees occupying more than
500,000 square feet of downtown space.
Duke recently contracted to purchase its
first downtown facility, the 114,000square-foot Carmichael Building, where
tobacco was once dried and stored.
“Duke became that credit-worthy client
that let us get so many other projects
going,” says Bill Kalkhof, president of
Downtown Durham Inc., a nonprofit that
promotes area revitalization. “Duke has
easily been one of the most influential
players downtown and, in terms of leasing
office space, the most influential.”
The boom in office and residential space
downtown has provided a foundation for
new cultural and entertainment options,
including the Durham Bulls Athletic Park,
galleries and artist studios at the rehabbed
FOODIE HAVEN
Collard greens aren’t hard to find in North
Carolina. But for this billowy staple of the
Southern dinner table to wind up on a plate
served at Magnolia Grill, it must have a
slight frosted purple tint to its otherwise
green leaves. That’s the telltale sign that
the green has been exposed to cold.
“A lot of old-fashioned Southernistas believe collards become sweetest when ex-
“You either like it or you don’t, and those who
like it don’t care that other people don’t.
That’s attractive to chefs.”
markschuelerphoto.com/Durham Convention & Visitors Bureau
Locus for locavores: More than sixty local vendors sell produce, eggs, meat, cheese, and other items at the Durham Farmers Market.
Golden Belt textile mill, and the Durham
Performing Arts Center, which opened in
2008 in a strikingly modern glass-walled
building near the Bulls park. DPAC’s
2,800-seat theater has become a magnet for
Broadway shows and A-list performers,
drawing a total audience of more than a
million in its first three years. DPAC’s
2011 attendance figures ranked fourth nationally among performing-arts centers.
There’s something else important about
all those DPAC showgoers—something
just as important to Durham’s renaissance
as quirky postindustrial office space:
They’re hungry.
going for it was geography. Get outside the
city limits and you’ll find a ring of active
farms growing a wide range of fruits and
vegetables. Magnolia’s collard greens, for
example, come from Brinkley Farms, a
family farm eighteen miles north of
Durham in Creedmoor. Barker developed a
relationship with the farm over several
years through the Carrboro Farmers’ Market, where he shops for the restaurant’s produce. (Brinkley also sells at the weekly
posed to frost,” explains Ben Barker, chef
and co-owner of the restaurant. “It accentuates the sugars in the greens.”
Ben and Karen Barker opened Magnolia
Grill in 1986 at the nadir of Durham’s tobacco age. They set up shop in the old
Wellspring Grocery, just down Ninth
Street from the beer halls and sandwich
shops that bordered East Campus. Their
restaurant was different—fancy and pricey
with a dedication to local ingredients. But
it caught on, and the restaurant’s success
would help lay the groundwork for the
city’s food revolution.
One of the main things Durham had
farmers’ market in Durham’s Central Park.)
That chef-farmer relationship is an important aspect of the farm-to-fork movement, which emphasizes fresh, local foods
produced sustainably. “It’s not cheaper; in
fact, it tends to be more expensive,” Barker
says of buying local. “But there’s less waste,
and you have an ongoing relationship with
the person who planted the seed. And it
tastes better.”
That combination earned Ben Barker a
James Beard Award in 2000 as Best Chef
in the Southeast, a top honor in the restaurant industry and one indicator that the
Durham food scene was on the rise. Three
years later, Karen, the restaurant’s pastry
chef, won one. (Note: If the Barkers ever
ask you over for dinner, accept.)
In 2006, Gourmet named Magnolia Grill
one of the top fifty restaurants in the country. But the wealth was spreading. Young
chefs, attracted by Durham’s low rents and
burgeoning food scene, flowed in. Magnolia itself turned into something of an incubator, training a number of chefs who went
on to open their own kitchens. Now the
city serves up everything from duck confit
at a French bistro to beef tongue tacos from
a takeout taqueria to Chinese dumplings
and Korean barbecue from trucks that
tweet their location each day.
“There’s no pretentiousness in Durham,”
says Sam Poley, a former chef and current
director of marketing and communications
for the Durham Convention & Visitors Bureau. “You either like it or you don’t, and
those who like it don’t care that other people don’t. That’s attractive to chefs.”
Durham’s rising foodie profile has not
gone unnoticed. In 2008, Bon Appétit
tabbed the Durham-Chapel Hill area
“America’s foodiest small town.” The New
DUKE MAGAZINE
March-April 2012
31
Szostak Designs, DPAC and Durham Convention & Visitors Bureau
York Times also has written glowingly
about Durham’s food scene three times
since 2010. One Times article from 2011
declared that from a former “ghost town…
an exciting, unexpected food hub has
emerged.” Another quoted former coowner of Pop’s and current owner of Six
Plates Wine Bar Matthew Beason, who reflected on the days a decade earlier when
he drove to the airport to retrieve a weekly
shipment of duck confit and pâté from
New York. “Now, virtually every place in
town makes its own,” he said.
As a social issue, Durham residents take
the farm-to-fork movement seriously, says
Chris Reid, a contributor to Carpe Durham,
a local food blog. If it was once a bonus for
a restaurant to use local ingredients, it is
now practically a requirement, Reid says.
“There’s a lot of farmland within thirty
miles, so the farm culture in North Carolina
is helping fuel the revival,” she says. “With
Vital signs: Durham Performing Arts Center, above; interior
entranceway to artist studios in Golden Belt, below right
every restaurant that opens now, that has to
be the focus. I think we expect it.”
If, on a sun-splashed afternoon, you sneak
out of work a little early for a cocktail or
two at Tyler’s Taproom in the American
Tobacco complex, you might luck into
some live music. Or maybe the hosts of the
Durham Bulls radio show are talking baseball at its makeshift studio outside Tyler’s
front door. Or perhaps, if you beat the
crowd, all you’ll hear is the soft gurgling
of the man-made stream that runs down
the middle of the campus, twisting this
way and that and looping under a pedes32
www.dukemagazine.duke.edu
Chris Hildreth
PERFECT TIMING
Chris Hildreth
Batter up: Durham Bulls Athletic Park opened in 1995 and expanded to 10,000 seats for the 1998 season, the year the Bulls began
playing in the Triple-A International League.
“I’m not sure the opportunity was really
there before then.”
Or perhaps since. Had the American Tobacco project come along in a rockier economic climate, like, say, today? “It
couldn’t have happened,” his Duke colleague Selig says.
And the buildings themselves played a
crucial role. American Tobacco is a complex of more than a dozen century-old
buildings, all used at first to manufacture
and store cigarettes. Flush with money at
the turn of last century, American Tobacco
built them to last, with strong construction and distinctive detailing. They’re
huge, wide, and for the most part rectangular—perfect spaces for myriad businesses.
“These buildings worked 100 years ago,
they work now, and they’ll probably work
100 years from now because they’re big,
open boxes,” Selig says. “It couldn’t have
happened without the bones of buildings
this well-built.”
Once decrepit and dreary, this complex
now buzzes with activity. You can get your
hair cut, have a slice at the pizza joint, or
learn to make a soufflé at a cooking class
at the Art Institute. You can even get married there, at Bay 7, an all-purpose banquet hall sandwiched between the local
public radio station and some offices.
Across the complex at McKinney, Brinegar remains pleased with his decision to relocate his advertising agency to Durham.
The space has worked out nicely. The
firm’s 147 employees are spread out over
two floors; their old offices in Raleigh had
them splayed on five different floors.
There, they had space for a single conference room. Now they have a dozen.
But there’s something more that has
changed since those first days in 2003.
“What we had ten years ago was determination, money, and opportunity.”
trian bridge. The scene is both idyllic and
urban, busy and serene. Overhead, the cigarette factory’s original white water tower,
175 feet tall and still emblazoned “Lucky
Strike,” strikes a long shadow.
If you’ve been around Durham for any
length of time, you still shake your head
at the turnaround, considering how far this
place has come from its ragged years of
abandonment. The renaissance has been
neither perfect nor complete. Downtown
still has its share of vacant storefronts and
dilapidated buildings, and too many city
residents suffer in poverty.
But the progress of the past decade was
not an accident, nor was it a product of
Duke’s investment, Jim Goodmon’s vision, or the leap of faith taken by businesses such as McKinney. It was a
confluence of factors, a three-legged stool
of government action, business leadership,
and grassroots activism, with each leg dependent on the others for support.
“What we had ten years ago was determination, money, and opportunity,” says
Trask, the Duke executive vice president.
When McKinney relocated, Brinegar was
the only McKinney employee who lived in
Durham, a sole believer in a brighter future ahead. Today, he’s got company:
About 100 of the company’s employees
■
now call Durham home.
Ferreri is a former reporter for the Durham
Herald-Sun and the Raleigh News & Observer. He now writes for Duke’s Office of
News and Communications. This is his first
story for Duke Magazine.
DUKE MAGAZINE
March-April 2012
33