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THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE SPECIAL
THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE SPECIAL
www.europastar.com
THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE
THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE
Audacity and Expertise
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CHANEL BALE_Ok Def 18h16 EN v08.indd 1
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“I want to be part of what is going to happen...”
« Je veux être de ce qui va arriver…. »
Mademoiselle Chanel
© 1976, Éditions Hermann, 6 rue de la Sorbonne, 75005 Paris. France www.editions-hermann.fr
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Ultimate
Luxury
Timepiece
How Chanel turned
watchmaking upside down
with the introduction of ceramic.
Gabrielle Chanel. 1935. MAN RAY Trust / ADAGP Paris 2011
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Without audacity, expertise is futile. Without expertise, audacity is sterile.
But together, they strengthen each other. With expertise, audacity can
find new inspiration. When combined with audacity, expertise can
spread its wings, open new territories, and reveal original ideas.
metals? But, beyond the audacity and boldness of this idea, the actual
acquisition of this status required expertise, or more precisely many types
of expertise that came together to give birth to a watch that was a bit
disconcerting at first, but that went on to become so popular that it has
become a cult object—the J12 by CHANEL.
Audacity is a dream, an impulse that, to transform itself into reality, needs
the help of expertise. Without this technical mastery, without the patient
and gradual acquisition of knowledge, audacity remains lifeless.
That it was CHANEL to have the audacity of giving ceramic its letters of
nobility, thus upsetting the order of the watch world, would be surprising
only to those who don’t know the intrepid heritage left by the founder,
who once declared, “I have liberated women’s bodies; bodies that were
drenched in sweat, due to fashion’s finery, lace, corsets, underclothes,
padding.”* She also affirmed that, “Black has it all. White, too. Their
beauty is absolute. It is the perfect harmony. Put women in black or white
at a ball and you only see them.”**
It was audacity that allowed Mademoiselle Chanel—to cite one example
among many—to impose a ‘raw’ and rough material such as tweed onto
the baroque fashion scene of 1920s haute couture, and to create a high
demand for this ‘shepherd’s’ fabric by stylish women around the world.
And, it required as much technical expertise as audacity to weave this
tweed into the desired natural colors, and to work and wash the fibers
in a way so that they would become as supple and soft as possible.
With these words, Mademoiselle Chanel set the foundation for an
aesthetic that is as bold as it is devoted to the simplicity of shapes, the
rigor of color, and the authenticity of materials. It is an aesthetic that
strongly considers the essence of an object, is attentive to its comfort, and
uncompromising when it comes to the quality of its tailoring. These many
codes—aesthetic and pure—are also found in the J12.
Thanks to this expertise, audacity prevailed. What at first shocked the
world ended up by being totally accepted.
Who would have thought that, one day—just like Mademoiselle
Chanel’s original tweed—ceramic, by this same audacity, would
become a precious material on the same level as the rarest of precious
* "L’Allure de Chanel" by Paul Morand - Hermann - 1996 p9
**"Chanel" by Jean Leymarie - Skira - 1987 p122
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THE FIRST
WATCHMAKING ICON
OF THE 21ST CENTURY
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The first J12 to see the light of day, in the year 2000, was black—an
intense black that came not from an added layer or a galvanic treatment.
It was a black that was embodied in the material itself, in a type of
ceramic originating from one of the most ancient forms that mankind
has ever known. At its launch, the J12 sent shockwaves throughout the
world of timekeeping, completely shattering the customs of the day.
Even though Mademoiselle Chanel once declared to French writer Paul
Morand, “I started in couture by chance. I started creating perfumes by
chance,”* the birth of the J12, in fact, left nothing to chance. It was the
result of a determination to develop the brand’s watchmaking prowess
over the long term. The J12 can be credited to the efforts of Jacques
Helleu, then artistic director of the company, who brought CHANEL
into the world of timekeeping in 1987 with the aptly named watch,
Première, whose form directly evokes its place of birth—the legendary
Place Vendôme in the heart of Paris (see pages 28 and 29).
From then on, the J12 family expanded along with the rising strength
of CHANEL’s watchmaking ateliers, progressively mastering the
special techniques and savoir-faire. It consists of an entire watchmaking
sequence that must be dominated step-by-step in a metier that is as much
artistic as it is technical—a metier where engineers and artisans, designers
and technicians, watchmakers and stone-setters work side by side… to
name only a few of the skills that contribute to the realization of a watch.
Thus, over ten years, CHANEL would launch the J12 Superleggera,
combining aluminium and ceramic (see page 20); the J12
Chronograph, with an even sportier look (see page 22); and the very
recent J12 Marine, thus reaffirming the J12’s credibility as a diver’s
watch (see page 21). In the J12 GMT and its dual time zone (see page
23), the J12 showcases its cosmopolitan nature with the addition of a
traditional watch complication. In the J12 Calibre 3125, it integrates a
movement, specially developed in collaboration with Audemars Piguet,
whose rotor is made in ceramic and 22K gold. CHANEL then delves
even further into the art of timekeeping with the development of the J12
Tourbillon, before reaching its highest level of audacity and expertise
with the creation of the very remarkable J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse
(see pages 18 and 19). In the design, namely the case and bracelet,
CHANEL is also expanding its audacious adventure, combining the
ceramic of the J12 with diamonds and other precious stones. From this
mix of materials, which is a world first, is born an amazing brilliance,
including a type of sparkle never before seen in the J12 Noir Intense,
where a black ceramic watch is set with cut and faceted-like-diamond
baguettes (see pages 16 and 17).
Seven intense years of work were necessary to develop the J12, which
Jacques Helleu used to say that he created “first of all for me” and which
he wanted to be “timeless, brilliant black, indestructible, and would make
me think of certain masterpieces in the world of the automobile”. His
statement also explains the astonishment of the watch world, which
wondered why an haute couture brand would stray from its ‘jewelry
watch’ territory and have the audacity to launch into timepieces that
were sporty, masculine (even though it was also quickly adopted by
women), robust, and whose design proved right away to be as ‘timeless’
as its creator intended. These seven years of development led to a
watch that strongly reflects all of the CHANEL codes while combining
them with high technology, the automobile, and the world of navigation.
The lines are all at once simple, fluid, and strong. The black is brilliant,
a “symbol of strength and energy”, while the contrasting dial is classic
and expressive. Above all, this unscratchable material, so beautiful and
yet so easy to wear, absorbs the heat of the body as this hard but
graceful ceramic wraps comfortably around the wrist. Three years later,
in 2003, came another shock. The J12 appeared in white! A white
sports watch? How dare they? The watch world was again stupefied
and yet… The white J12 not only became so popular that it created a
new watch trend, but it also heightened even further the status of the J12
as a cult object.
It is this extraordinary versatility that, step-by-step, has catapulted the J12
to its current status as the ‘first watch icon of the 21st century’. Some
think, however, that this status is a bit premature. Well, perhaps… But the
remarkable fact is that the J12, even considering all its transformations,
remains truly faithful to itself and is so immediately recognizable—
whether sporty or covered in diamonds, whether a high watchmaking
complication or in its most simple form. This, in itself, is an indication of
its exceptional nature. And doesn’t this then define what is an ‘icon’?
And it is not the arrival into the J12 family of a new face, the J12
Chromatic, dressed in a ceramic with unprecedented nuances, never
before seen, that will contradict this status of icon. No, definitely not. The
J12 is here for a long time to come.
* © 1976, Éditions Hermann, 6 rue de la Sorbonne, 75005 Paris. France www.editions-hermann.fr
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AudAcity And ExpErtisE
BrINgINg a
neW
COLOr
wATCHES
TO
An interview with
pHilippe mOUGenOt,
president of CHanel’s
Fine Jewelry and watch division.
we know that CHANEL does not start anything without deep
reflection. And now, you have just globally launched the J12
Chromatic: a new ceramic in a new color. How is this J12
different than just ‘one more’ J12?
PhM: There is no such thing as ‘just one more’ J12. Each of the J12
watches has its own important reason for being, and each brings its
own building block to what, in ten years, has become a veritable
institution. We can say, without danger of false modesty, that the J12
is becoming—if not already there—one of the rare watch icons, and the
only one born in the 21st century. And, it is not just me who is saying
this. But this status also involves a responsibility. It is acquired thanks to
a form of respect towards the product and towards those who want it.
Like a person who dictates his behavior to his creator, an icon imposes
its rules and its codes.
material itself, from the ceramic. This was not the first ceramic watch in
the world but it was the first to elevate this extraordinary substance to
the ranks of a precious material—on the same level as gold, or even
with the diamond as we demonstrated later with the J12 Noir Intense.
After this black model, we launched the J12 white, another of the
brand’s color codes. This was a revolution. Who believed in a white
watch? Especially a white sports watch? With the J12 white, we have
truly opened a new segment in timekeeping. With this same faithfulness,
we are repeating this audacious bet with the J12 Chromatic. It is not
only a new ceramic, but it is also a new color—a color never before
seen. It is difficult to describe it in words or even in pictures. It is a color
in motion, with a very particular shimmer and brilliance, a color that
at first glance seems to be metal—perhaps white gold or titanium. A
warm color that reacts differently according to the light. A color that
plays with black and white, sliding from one or the other of our two
major color codes.
After the black, after the white, a new color? We worked for a long
time to succeed in developing the color that we wanted for the J12
Chromatic. We also spent a lot of time developing a special ceramic,
a totally new titanium ceramic. But what delights me so much in this
development is precisely its faithfulness to what remains so profoundly
the J12.
very recently, CHANEL presented its J12 rétrograde
Mystérieuse, a grande complication that demonstrates your
determination to move into the arena of haute horlogerie, as
we now call this segment. Between the J12 Chromatic, that
emphasizes appearance, and the very complex J12 rétrograde
Mystérieuse, isn’t this a great departure for CHANEL?
PhM: To begin with, please note that, in these two cases, CHANEL is
And what does “faithfulness” mean in this case...?
PhM: The J12 must always be innovative, in materials as in colors. The
first J12 was black, a deep brilliant black coming from the mass of the
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being innovative. On one hand, this innovation involves the materials
and on the other hand, it concerns mechanical complications. In one
case as in the other, this is all about watchmaking in the most complete
sense of the term. Gradually, step-by-step, without skipping any of the
necessary stages, CHANEL has become one of the watch brands
that count. And, we have no intention of ignoring any aspects of the
watchmaking metier.
Châtelain, a very respected company that was founded in 1947.
As is well demonstrated by the J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse, cases
and ‘engines’ not only complete each other, but also enrich each
other. Thus, for example, we have the mysterious push-pieces made in
ceramic, which let the wearer select the various watch functions. But
the same thing applies to the complication itself of this watch, whose
slow retrograde motion of the minute hand was dictated by comfort
and ergonomic considerations of the case, leading to the choice of a
vertical crown. So, it is safe to say that only CHANEL can design such
an original new watch complication.
Our start in timekeeping began only in 1987 with the Première, an ultrafeminine proposition, with a high price tag, that incorporated all the
design codes of the brand. We continued this initial foray into ladies’
watches with the Mademoiselle, which, in passing, reintroduced the
pearl into watches, followed by the Matelassée, the first cuff watch.
Then, in 2000, we launched the J12, our first sports watch for both
men and women. With the J12, we began our venture into the art of
pure timekeeping with the introduction of the mechanical movement,
a COSC-certified chronograph. Then, we launched the first tourbillon
in ceramic, followed by one with a GMT movement. Soon after, we
began our collaboration with Audemars Piguet with an adapted
movement, and finally in 2010, we presented the very complex J12
Rétrograde Mystérieuse in collaboration with the Renaud & Papi
manufacture. All of this took place step-by-step, without ever dissociating
our watchmaking endeavor from our savoir-faire in terms of cases and
bracelets, an exceptional know-how, built upon since 1993 when
CHANEL purchased the high-end case and bracelet manufacturer,
This, then, is not an isolated incursion into watch complications?
PhM: No, of course not. The J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse illustrates
our determination to innovate in the art of watchmaking over the long
term—and the ‘long term’ has real meaning at CHANEL, believe me.
Just think of the best-selling perfume in the world, Chanel No. 5, which
dates back to 1921! We have this same philosophy when it comes
to timekeeping. Our driving force is creativity and we know that we
can make an authentic contribution to the institution of watchmaking,
at the crossroads of cases and movements, which we are known for,
thanks to our ability to conceive of new and original ideas. With the J12
Chromatic, this is what it is all about: introducing a never-before-seen
material, and bringing a new color to watches.
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THE J12 CHrOMATIC,
a neW era
FOr THE J12
This CHrOmatiC color SHimmerS
with a varying intensity and density
according to the ambient light.
The new J12 Chromatic is, by itself, exemplary of the creative approach
taken by CHANEL. It is a determined approach that favors, above
all, research, innovation, and the long-term. It is also an approach that
differentiates itself from the marketplace. The J12 Chromatic was born
out of the desire by CHANEL to invent a new color, to give a new tint to
ceramic, one that has never been seen before.
This determination is at the heart of the brand’s incessant watchmaking
quest to offer the greatest comfort possible to the wearer of the watch,
to assure the timeless quality of the piece, and to give it a very special
brilliance, like no other.
The choice of ceramic perfectly meets these criteria. From an
ergonometric point of view, ceramic is a safe and warm material that
takes the temperature of the body, while letting it breathe. Its hardness
gives it an exceptional longevity, protects it from scratches and dents,
and maintains its very particular brilliance.
But, the ceramic developed specifically and exclusively for the J12
Chromatic possesses even greater qualities. Incorporating titanium,
it is lighter than traditional ceramic and 25 percent harder and more
resistant (for more on ceramic and its technologies, see pages 12 to
15). And above all, it has a sparkle unlike any other.
Such brilliance can, of course, be measured in terms of rational criteria,
namely the diffraction and reflection of light, but it is primarily a subjective
appreciation. What really strikes the eye is the very particular quality of
the brilliance of the J12 Chromatic. This Chromatic color —let’s name this
new color ‘Chromatic’ since no other known term can by itself represent
it—shimmers with a varying intensity and density according to the ambient
light. To do justice to this remarkable hue, you have to wear the watch,
let it live, and allow it to change as it moves.
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THE J12 CHrOMATIC,
a neW era
FOr THE J12
Material, color, and sheen are inextricably linked. It passes from a
stormy sky to a shimmering ocean, becoming a mirror, a reflection of
the depths. The color is intense and changeable, vibrant and warm.
It conceals a mystery and is cloaked in a special duality. Both a color
and a non-color, it is an iridescent material that transforms the prevailing
light—the light of a particular time and place—into a special shimmer. For
this reason, its creators can affirm that they have found a way to ‘give
color to time’.
Having succeeded in obtaining such a unique color is certainly a
question of time: six years for research and development, and two
years for industrializing this timepiece. This does not even count the very
special polishing techniques that had to be developed (see also pages
12 to 15). It is also a question of paying very special attention to details.
With the distinctive characteristics of this new ceramic, the J12 Chromatic
timepiece had to do justice to the new color. Specific galvanic treatments
were thus developed to give the dial the tint that matches the Chromatic
tones. The same careful considerations were given to the decoration of
the dial, which features vertical brushing at the center, a sort of stamping
around the edge, applied indices, and rhodium-plated hands. The ring
of the bezel, made in Chromatic ceramic, was given a satin finish that,
by its contrast, accentuates the evocative power and subtlety of the J12
Chromatic’s reflections even more.
Seven models have been designed for the launch of the J12 Chromatic:
a 33 mm version with a quartz movement; a 38 mm version with an
automatic mechanical movement; a 41 mm model with an automatic
mechanical movement; two versions set with round diamonds; and two
models with baguette-cut diamonds set in a radial design. The latter
diamond-set watches open new horizons as the sparkle of the diamonds
mixed with the special brilliance of the Chromatic ceramic is unlike
anything seen up to now.
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THE ART AND
MASTERY OF
CERAMIC
The new Chromatic ceramic
pushes watchmaking ceramic technology
to the extreme.
Ceramics is the oldest of the fire art forms.
Already in the Paleolithic period, or nearly 30,000 years BC, humans
had mastered the firing of clay at a high temperature, which allowed
them to create and conserve objects for worship or for domestic use.
Throughout its history, which accompanied that of humanity, ceramics
took on a thousand faces depending on the particular civilizations.
It became an extremely refined art, allowing for the creation of the
most elaborate forms and lending itself to the most sophisticated and
elegant decorations.
replaced the antique earthen clays and were combined to create
high technology ceramics with specific physical properties intended
for advanced industrial, spatial, and medical uses. These high-tech
ceramics displayed truly remarkable properties: Great mechanical
resistance, combining low density with extreme hardness, comparable
to that of sapphire crystal and thus far superior to that of steel. They
are resistant to thermal shocks (ceramic tiles protect the space shuttle
during its re-entry into the atmosphere), to chemical attacks, and to
aging. They are perfect electrical insulators, and above all, they are
totally biocompatible, which means that they pose no danger to
people or to the environment.
A noble and universal art, and mastered by all the peoples of the
earth, ceramic materials were used from the beginning in construction.
Gradually, new applications were found as its methods of fabrication
improved and became more sophisticated.
These many qualities make high-tech ceramic an outstanding material
for watches, providing cases that are timeless because of the material’s
hardness and its exceptional resistance to scratching and aging. The
same ceramic also has other characteristics that make it a remarkable
material for use in timekeeping: its light weight provides incomparable
In the 20th century, a new branch of the ceramics art was created
called ‘technical ceramics’. Oxides, powders, and granules
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comfort to the wearer; in contact with the skin, its conductivity allows it
to absorb and exactly maintain the body’s temperature; and finally, its
particular brilliance—that we could qualify as an interior sparkle—and
the silkiness of its polishing confer upon this ceramic an extraordinary
and magical allure. All of these qualities respond to the eternal quest
by watchmakers to find just the right case: timeless, resistance, comfort,
beauty.
Its shimmering brilliance is so unusual that a person would be hardpressed to know exactly what material it is. Lighter than the other black
or white ceramics (because titanium is one of the lightest metals known,
with approximately 60 percent of the density of steel), but 25 percent
harder, while still being as biocompatible, the Chromatic ceramic
condenses the technologies and savoir-faire acquired by CHANEL
into this advanced, precise, and specific domain.
The new Chromatic ceramic developed by CHANEL pushes the limits
of watchmaking ceramic technology. The fabrication processes are
even more complex than those of the black or white ceramics, and
more than two years of research and development were necessary
to adapt them to industrial scale. The polishing times for this unusual
ceramic are twice as long, and the techniques used in polishing
sapphire crystal were adapted in order to obtain this new ceramic’s
particular sparkle.
The Chromatic ceramic
After the most intensely black ceramic in existence, followed by the
clearest and purest white ceramic, CHANEL has introduced the
Chromatic ceramic. This is a high-tech ceramic of a totally new type—a
titanium ceramic exclusive to CHANEL, and the result of lengthy
technological research. It offers nothing less than a new color, similar
to titanium or white gold, while conserving all the warmth of ceramic.
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THE ART AND
MASTERY OF
CERAMIC
The creation of a J12 passes
by numerous stages, some of which
cannot be disclosed due to
top secret fabrication processes.
A long process
Whether black or white, the fabrication of a J12 ceramic watch case
passes by the same rigorous steps, a long process that CHANEL has
totally mastered. As with all ceramics, everything begins with the ‘earth.’
But, in this case, the ‘earth’ is made up of a powder of zirconium oxide
and yttrium oxide, natural minerals that are mixed with pigments—to give
color—and with a binder substrate. This ‘earth’ is then placed into molds
whose shapes vary according to the pieces that are to be fabricated:
the case of the J12, the links of it bracelet (there are 20 types and
shapes of links), and other elements of the case, bezel, crown, and
push-pieces depending on the model.
One of the greatest difficulties in this process is to pierce the pieces
before firing and master the phenomena of retraction of ceramic that
occurs during the heating process.
The second essential step is polishing, which will give the ceramic its
brilliance, softness, and that special shimmer. Specific techniques had
to be developed, similar to those used in polishing sapphire crystal (in
decreasing order, the hardest materials are diamond, sapphire, and then
ceramic). For the polishing stage, the ceramic elements are subjected
to a veritable ordeal, conducted in several stages. They are placed in
satellites, which orbit for a long time between two millstones coated with
diamond powder, oriented along the contours to be polished. They then
pass into drums and are mixed with abrasive stones, which gives them
the final brilliance and the desired inalterable polish. Obviously, in this
mathematically high-tech and intuitive technology, there are secrets of
fabrication and artisanal savoir-faire that involve as much expertise as
audacity.
Once this ‘earth’ is molded, it is removed from its binder—which has
the particularity of being both strong enough to maintain the zirconium
granules together, but sufficiently soluble to be able to dissolve in water.
The piece then becomes an extremely fragile and porous form, a little
like a sand castle that could collapse at any moment. It is then placed
in an oven that reaches more than 1,000°C, which will harden the
ceramic to its point of highest resistance. (Obviously, certain secrets of
CHANEL’s innovative and exclusive methods of fabrication cannot be
revealed in detail.)
Once they are polished, the ceramic elements then pass to the assembly
stage. Putting together the J12’s very flexible ceramic bracelet is
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especially meticulous since the shape is angled both laterally and in its
thickness. The various links therefore have to be hand-assembled one by
one, and glued (a glue robot dispenses the exact micro-metrical quantity
needed), and then dried under ultra-violet light before putting them into
the oven. Each piece is carefully and individually checked in keeping
with very strict protocols.
watch cases and accessory elements. There are so many mechanical
operations carried out in turn by hand or by an impressive array of
multi-axis digital machines. Before being assembled and stone-set, the
elements of the J12 pass through the polishing center. The first phase
is automated. It is the pre-grinding step that ensures the geometric
uniformity of the piece. After this initial preparation, the pieces all undergo
individual hand polishing. At each of these stages, they are checked. In
all, a finished and encased timepiece will have been subjected to 1,000
visual checks before being declared in conformity with CHANEL’s very
stringent quality criteria. Before their final assembly, some of the watches
will pass through the stone-setting atelier. Here can be seen another of
the major innovations resulting from the J12—combining ceramic with
diamonds. This has opened many new design prospects in timekeeping.
(For more on CHANEL’s stone-setting activities, see pages 24 to 27.)
In addition to the ceramic elements of the J12, the metallic components—
steel, titanium, gold, and aluminium—of the CHANEL watches are also
made here. Design, planning, fabrication, polishing, and decoration
are carried out at the same time in the same manufacturing facility that
CHANEL has in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking valleys. This facility,
Châtelain, created in 1947 and currently employing 250 people,
makes the cases for CHANEL’s watches. Here, everything is organized
according to the production flow chart that, from planning to prototype to
finished watch, passes by a continuous series of processes, operations,
and quality controls. The machining of case backs, bezels, the small
bars that hold the links, and the fold-over clasps that are so simple yet
elegant and hardwearing, is done for CHANEL in this location, as are
the turning, milling, tapping, and fluting of all the parts that make up the
Despite all these innovations in ceramic watch cases and bracelets,
CHANEL is not resting on its laurels. The brand has taken the ceramic
from the exterior and added it to the interior of the watch, as well as
placed it right down into the heart of its movement.
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INNOvATION
at tHe Heart
OF TIMEkEEpINg
CHanel’s watchmaking innovations are
at the crossroads of the case and the
movement, where the allure of a design can
find their most successful
mechanical expression.
J12 Noir Intense
724 black high-tech
ceramic baguettes
It was Gabrielle Chanel who set the tone, and since then, innovation has
been at the heart of everything CHANEL undertakes. The guiding principle
of this innovation is always the same: swim against the tide, reverse the
roles of the objects created, divert them from their normal functions to give
them a hitherto unknown use. An example of this principle was mentioned
earlier about the use of tweed or jersey, which were transformed into
choice materials to create a new elegance, one that is modern, practical,
comfortable, and liberating. Another example is the legendary handbag,
the 2.55 (a quilted handbag created in February 1955), which, by the
simple addition of a small chain, freed up a woman’s movements.
was made in ceramic. The plate is the support base of the movement
on which all of the delicate mechanical architecture is based on. The
precision of its machining is thus fundamental since the entire construction
of the movement depends on the plate. Another first, the ceramic was
machined to tolerances of the order of 1/100th, which in itself is quite
a feat.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the ceramic plate—
so pure and so essential—is also a first in design terms since it gives
the J12 Tourbillon a very unique allure. Moreover, the upper bridge
of the tourbillon carriage is made in optical glass, which confers an
unexpected depth to the tourbillon movement. In addition, the tourbillon’s
bridge is made of white gold, evoking the pure lines of the watch’s
hands. This original association of ceramic, optical glass, and white gold
in the J12, a watch as profoundly implanted in the art of timekeeping as
it is a sports piece, provides an ultra-contemporary design.
The same is true in the watch world. The first innovation by CHANEL was
to transform ceramic into a precious material and, in passing, overturn
the codes of timekeeping. The second innovation, after the intense black
of the first J12, was the introduction of a white watch, thus inaugurating
a new trend, one that is often copied but never equaled. The third
innovation was the creation, with the J12 Chromatic, of a totally new
and unique color, once again transforming the art of ceramics. But there
is another innovation that, while it may be a bit less visible, is certainly
not any less striking—the use of ceramic in the actual watch functions.
CHANEL’s second venture of integrating ceramic into the heart of
the mechanical movement is the J12 Calibre 3125. The fruit of close
collaboration between CHANEL and the Swiss watch manufacturer,
Audemars Piguet produced an automatic watch with three hands. In
the haute horlogerie category, this calibre combines design perfection,
traditional artisanal timekeeping, and exemplary finishing. Made with
18K yellow gold and black ceramic, the J12 Calibre 3125 is equipped
CHANEL’s first incursion into this new domain dates back to 2005
with the presentation of the J12 Tourbillon, the first ceramic Grand
Complication in watch history. For the very first time, the movement plate
16
02.03.11 20:00
J12 Tourbillon
base plate in white
high-tech ceramic
Rotor in black high-tech
ceramic and 22-carat
gold for the Chanel
AP3125 calibre.
with an automatic movement that is a fusion between the Audemars
Piguet Calibre 3120 and the ceramic of the J12.
“When CHANEL came to see me with the goal of together creating a
complication watch, I asked myself what I could offer to this prestigious
brand that was active in the world of haute couture, of which I knew
very little. Everything became clear to me, however, when I visited the
apartment of Mademoiselle Chanel. In looking closely at her life, at
her creations, and her innovations, I then thought of an additional
innovation that CHANEL could bring to watchmaking: modify the use
of the winding crown and time corrector, which, since it is placed on the
side of the watch, is not very easy to use. So, why not place it vertically?
The rotor of the J12 Calibre 3125, mounted on ceramic ball bearings,
is composed of an oscillating weight in 22K yellow gold, rhodiumplated and polished to a mirror finish, and a black ceramic arm. This
high-precision movement with exceptional finishing has all the attributes
of an haute horlogerie timekeeper: transversal balance bridge, variable
inertia balance, precision automatic winding, rapid date corrector
mechanism, and a power reserve greater than 60 hours. It is a prestige
movement, allied with the design of the J12 to create a truly exceptional
timepiece.
It was with this idea in mind, that I went to meet the watch team at
CHANEL. We developed the idea of a vertical and retractable crown
that could be manipulated like a real tool, without having to take the
watch off the wrist. And, we added two push-pieces to activate and
select the functions of winding or setting the time done by the crown.
But in our first project, this vertical crown was lodged in an exterior
protuberance.
With the successful results of its incursion into the land of haute horlogerie
and its experience in the domain of the tourbillon, CHANEL decided to
push even further into unusual watchmaking by proposing a mechanical
complication that would be both innovative and original. This resulted in
the J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse, created and realized in collaboration
with the manufacturer Renaud & Papi, a specialist in avant-garde
movement development.
The CHANEL team, wanting to improve even more the ergonometric
aspects and design of the watch, asked me to remove this protuberance
by ‘pushing’ it into the interior of the watch. ‘OK,’ I answered them, ‘but
what do we do with the minute hand whose passage will be disturbed
by the crown?’ The only solution was to design a retrograde minute
hand.
But let’s have Giulio Papi, the designer and master watchmaker who
is at the origin of the J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse, tell the story in his
own words.
17
02.03.11 20:00
CHANEL was the first brand to
use ceramic in mechanical
watchmaking functions.
Pusher at 2 o’clock
that activates the
setting of the time
10-day power
reserve indication
Retractable
vertical crown
Tourbillon
Pusher at 4 o’clock
that activates the
winding of the
movement
Digital minutes disc
(11 to 19 minutes)
Innovation
at the heart
of timekeeping
18
02.03.11 20:00
But the instantaneous jump backwards made by a conventional
retrograde hand seemed a little too nervous, even almost stressful. This
did not correspond at all to the spirit of time according to CHANEL,
which is more sensual, and had to be something more contemplative.
So then came the idea of a retrograde hand, of course, but a slow
retrograde. When the minute hand arrived at the obstacle posed by the
vertical crown, it would then retrograde for ten minutes, the time for it to
move under the vertical crown and reposition itself on the other side. But
then came the question of how to count and read these ten minutes while
the hand was moving backwards?
error in reading the time is thus theoretically 30 to 40 seconds but it is
immediately corrected, to the extent that the eye does not perceive it.
Where CHANEL’s approach becomes globally innovative is in the way it
pushes, as far as possible, the integration of design into the mechanisms
at work in this watch. Thus, the ceramic crown is made retractable
by a simple push, and the two ceramic push-pieces, which allow the
manipulation of the functions of the crown, are perfectly inserted into the
decoration of the watch’s bezel. This is why the J12 Rétrograde is also
a Mystérieuse, joining the prestigious family of watches with a secret.
The development of this new complication took a long time: two years of
development and one year to successfully make the first prototype, then
two years to perfect it, in close collaboration between our movement
constructors and Châtelain, which is the case manufacturer for CHANEL,
as well as the creative teams at the Place Vendôme. The J12 Rétrograde
Mystérieuse is, however, only the first step. Other realizations are
under study and you will see in the near future that CHANEL’s style of
watchmaking still holds many surprises.”
We designed a small counter in a window that would display the
‘missing’ minutes, from 11 to 19 minutes, but that would be empty the
rest of the time. This solution seemed relatively simple on paper, but to
actually be able to do it, we had to come up with some very innovative
technical solutions. Three solutions thus presented themselves. Two
involved toothed gears that would allow the direction of the hand to be
reversed. The other solution, which we retained, used cams in a system
that prevented jamming, was stable in time, and offered little play. We
also had to mechanically coordinate the minute hand and the ten-minute
disc that appeared in the window. So, when the hand arrives at the tenth
minute, the disc has already started its journey by about 30 seconds,
and when the same hand, after regressing, comes to position itself at
the twentieth minute, the disc is not at zero but at 19½ minutes. The
As Giulio Papi explains from his vantage point as a master watchmaker,
the key to CHANEL’s watchmaking innovations is at the crossroads
of the case and the movement, where form, design, function, and
motorization are interlinked, where the allure and the elegance of a
design can find their most successful mechanical expression. Or, on the
other hand, where the mechanical can find its perfect form.
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02.03.11 20:00
J12
Superleggera
Highly symbolic, the Superleggera
emblem endorses the most elite racing
cars in the world.
“The expression ‘Superleggera’ has made me dream since I was 14
years old. At that time, I lived with my parents in Saint-Cloud. Along
the banks of the Seine was the atelier of an incredible mechanic,
Catanéo, a developer of great Italian race cars. I used to spend
entire afternoons watching him adjust and rev up the engines of these
high-powered cars. Very quickly, I noticed the Superleggera signature
on some of them. It was a mysterious signature, synonymous with
mechanical performance and unprecedented design, known only
to the initiated. When I wanted to create an exclusively masculine
J12 by associating it with the world of the automobile, this concept
immediately came to mind itself…”
concept was so exciting that the notion of ‘Superleggera’ spread into
architecture, design, and decoration.
In order to transpose the illustrious concept of lightweight into the
world of watches, CHANEL explored the universe of materials lighter
than steel, and rapidly opted for aluminium—but not just any aluminium,
a high-tech aluminium reinforced by anodizing, with a treatment that
made it as resistant as steel yet without changing its very specific
color. The desire to maintain the very light look of aluminium, with its
nearly white reflections, increased by a satin treatment, was important
because it strongly contrasted with the intense black of the ceramic,
making a powerful visual impression that graphically expressed the
sportiness and audacity of the piece.
In the mind of its creator, the name of ‘Superleggera’, along with its
graphic elements so emblematic of the 1950s, and above all with the
idea of a design combined with lightweight, immediately asserted itself
when CHANEL decided in 2005 to promote the masculinity of the J12.
In all, thanks to the integration of aluminium into the strategic zones of
the watch and its close alliance with ceramic, the J12 Superleggera
is approximately 20 percent lighter than a classic J12. It features
a titanium case back with a central sapphire crystal disc engraved
with the original red Superleggera logo, an aluminium and ceramic
bezel with a tachometer scale, screw-in ceramic and aluminium pushpieces, and a bracelet made of three rows of ceramic and aluminium
or rubber links. Its sportiness is exemplified by its silvered dial, with its
satin finishing, black numerals, and Superluminova indices and hands.
Water-resistant to 200 meters, the Superleggera is equipped with a
high-performance automatic chronograph movement, certified by the
COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).
Until then, the Superleggera emblem was a legend, a secret shared
among the initiated, aesthetes fascinated by the world of the automobile
and design, enlightened lovers of race cars, and impassioned fans
of fine engineering. The name appeared on some of the most elite
cars made starting in the early 1950s by the Italian Touring—ultralight body work that, combined with a multi-tubular alloyed chassis,
permitted the reinforcement of the cars’ structure while considerably
lightening the weight. Automobiles of the most prestigious brands were
equipped with ‘Superleggera’ bodies and this prestigious avant-garde
20
02.03.11 20:00
J12 MArINE
a COnQUeSt for new territories –
those of the depths of the sea.
One of the main sources of inspiration for the J12 is the world of the
sea and of nautical sports.
shocks, scratches, and ultraviolet rays, and whose openings allow
for water to run out, and whose tongued buckle allows for precise
adjustment even over a wetsuit.
Ten years after its first appearance, the J12 reaffirms its very masculine
maritime nature with the J12 Marine. Since diving is a sport that leaves
no room for error, the J12 Marine has been designed as a veritable
diving instrument. Equipped with an automatic mechanical movement,
it is ready to overcome any potential failings of electronic instruments
that the diver takes with him. Water-resistant to 300 meters (30 ATM),
the J12 Marine is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel that
has a luminescent disc at 12 o’clock, is notched, and graduated into
60 minutes for a precise countdown of the time underwater and the
decompression stages. The J12 Marine also features an anti-reflective
sapphire crystal, screw-in and protected crown, luminescent hands
and indices, and a composite rubber strap that is resistant to water,
As comfortable above the water as below it, the J12 Marine is as
attractive as it is sporty. An elegant watch, it features: a molded hightech ceramic case in black with a micro-granulated finish or in polished
white; a rotating bezel disc in blue or black ceramic or in sapphire
crystal struck with blue numerals; a blue or colorless treatment of the
sapphire crystal; a steel crown topped with a ceramic cabochon; and
a black or white lacquered dial with blued hands and a background
engraved with stylized waves. Its very flexible rubber straps and its
fine steel tongued buckle offer exceptional comfort to the wearer and
elevate this natural material to the ranks of the most noble of watch
materials.
21
02.03.11 20:00
J12 CHrONOgrApH
Strict lines, reliability,
sportiness and elegance for this
"SUperlative J12".
More than a simple ‘version’ of the J12, the J12 Chronograph is, in the
words of its creator, “a J12 in the superlative”. Larger (41 mm), more
imposing, this watch, that seems to be “made for cross-country racing”,
combines reliability, sportiness, and elegance. Its well-proportioned
volumes, its tight lines, the confidence of its design, the equilibrium of
the blacks and whites that compose it, and the subtle diamond line of its
flange all strongly exude a remarkable sense of harmony.
4 o’clock and 5 o’clock.
On top of this reliability, the case of the J12 Chronograph gives the
watch a high sporty allure. The screw-in back ensures that its hightech, scratch-resistant, and inalterable ceramic case is water-resistant
to 200 meters (20 ATM). The case also features two push-pieces,
which activate the chronographic functions (start, stop, return to zero),
a screw-in security crown with a crown protector made in the same
ceramic, and a notched steel unidirectional rotating bezel, which is set
with a laser-engraved ceramic ring. Reliability and readability go hand
in hand in this watch since its dial is struck with relief numerals, while the
indices and hands are luminescent.
The first complication watch of the J12 family, CHANEL’s first sporty
chronograph, the J12 Chronograph is COSC-certified. It is driven by
an automatic mechanical movement, beating at 28,800 vibrations per
hour, with a power reserve of 42 hours. It is well known for its reliability
under all conditions. It displays hours, minutes, and seconds (on a small
counter at 3 o’clock), and its chronographic function measures times
using the central hand (60 seconds), as well as a small 30-minute
counter (situated at 9 o’clock), and a small 12-hour counter (located
at 6 o’clock). In addition, the date is displayed in a window between
The imposing case of the J12 Chronograph also comes with an
articulated bracelet composed of 48 links in high-tech ceramic offering
total comfort with its triple deploymet buckle that was specially designed
and patented by CHANEL.
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02.03.11 20:00
J12 gMT
J12 time all
around the GlObe
The intrinsic qualities of the J12, its unchanging elegance, its comfort
on the wrist, its exceptional ergonomic aspects and readability make it
logically a perfect watch for the traveler. It was thus natural for CHANEL
to propose a version especially designed for the world traveler who
passes from one time zone to another.
As practical as it is precise, the J12 GMT is driven by an automatic
mechanical movement beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a
power reserve of 42 hours. Its precision can be adjusted by the single
crown that also activates the hours, minutes, GMT, and date.
The J12 GMT exudes a nearly classical elegance, fitting for the world
traveler. Its 42 mm high-tech ceramic case has been reworked in order
to give it an ultra-thin case measuring only 10 mm in thickness. Its bracelet
has a triple fold-over clasp that CHANEL has patented. Water-resistant
to 100 meters (10 ATM), equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire
crystal and phosphorescent Superluminova hands and indices, the J12
GMT is ready for any and all changes of scenery.
Thanks to its GMT complication (GMT is the acronym for Greenwich
Mean Time, which has long served as the standard reference for time,
and which is now synonymous for the zero time zone), the J12 GMT
simultaneously displays two time zones. The reference time—that of the
country being visited—is shown on the main dial while the home time
is indicated using a chromium-plated GMT hand whose red arrow
points to the outside bezel that is graduated into 24 hours (24 hours are
displayed to avoid confusion between day and night in the country of
origin). The wearer can easily reverse these functions, for example, by
displaying his home time on the central dial and the second time zone
using the GMT hand.
23
02.03.11 20:00
High
innovation
Jewelry
Between high-tech composite materials
and DIAMONDS from the dawn of time, this
marriage has produced exceptional results.
Diamonds and ceramic. One is the hardest substance to come out of
the earth. The other is the strongest material made by man. Both have
their origins in fire. The black and the white. The black of the ceramic,
the white of the diamond. An intense and somber shimmer absorbed
in the material for one, the fire of light that escapes from the other.
These strong contrasts between the two extremes of the color range
have always been part of the CHANEL design concept. It began with
the creative imagination of Mademoiselle Chanel who, in establishing
her rigorous design codes, broke with tradition and created a stylistic
legend. The same CHANEL stylistic rupture and the same codes are at
work in this innovative encounter where diamonds meet ceramic in the
same timepiece. This clash of materials produces a harmony that is as
inventive as it is fascinating. It also creates a new dialogue between
complementary skills, between watchmaking and jewelry, between
the case and the stone-setting. It represents a new equilibrium between
the technological mastery of the ceramic and the meticulous artisanal
selection of the most beautiful stones, whose purity and quality are of
the highest standards.
extent of its versatility. Always different, but always itself, it is totally
impressive. The very balanced design of its case and bracelet
marvelously lend themselves to prolific juxtapositions of ceramic, white
gold, yellow gold, and round or baguette diamonds. Sometimes these
encounters also augment, in a spectacular manner, the intense red of a
ruby, the deep green of an emerald, or the blue of a sapphire.
By taking over the J12, the diamonds and precious stones emphasize
to an even greater degree its very balanced architecture. With the J12
Noir Intense, (see page 16) this fusion of form and material reaches
perhaps its point of incandescence or, more precisely, its point of light
absorption. This is because the J12 Noir Intense is only ceramic. It is
black ceramic set in white gold that it covers entirely. The effect is striking.
The hundreds of facets of its 724 ceramic baguettes that have been
cut and faceted by hand, like the diamond baguettes, capture the light
in a most amazing way, first absorbing and then reflecting it in a very
subtle manner. The effect is unlike any other and quite different than can
be produced with a similar setting composed of black diamonds. The
shimmer is both subdued and intense, producing a particular quality of
light comparable to no other.
By pairing with the diamond, the ceramic of the J12 has opened new
creative prospects, dare we say. Between this composite material
coming from high technology and the carbon coming from the dawn
of time, the marriage has produced exceptional effects. Whether it
is discreetly set with pavé diamonds around the bezel or completely
radiant covered with baguette diamonds, the J12 demonstrates the
Audacity and innovation are hardly enough to describe this absolute world’s
first. Requiring more than 200 hours of stone-setting, the J12 Noir Intense is
equipped with the CHANEL-AP 3125 automatic mechanical movement,
personalized exclusively for CHANEL by Audemars Piguet. The rotor
24
02.03.11 20:00
25
02.03.11 20:00
HiGH
innOvatiOn
JEwELLEry
26
02.03.11 20:00
is made in gold but has ceramic arms. More than ever, with the series
of the J12 Noir Intense limited to only five watches, the J12 deserves
its status as an icon.
major characteristics of CHANEL’s watch production. This mutual
fertilization results in jewelry timepieces whose coherence in design,
decoration, style, and technique is undeniable.
This incredible and prestigious realization, with an unprecedented
complexity, polishing, and setting, would never have seen the light
of day if CHANEL did not have its own atelier for stone-setting. It is
located in the heart of its case facility, Châtelain. It is here that the
high-tech ceramic baguettes, diamonds, and other precious stones
of all kinds are patiently selected using a loupe. They are checked,
sorted, and arranged in view to being set, according to whether they
will decorate the bezel, case, bracelet, dial, or crown of a J12 or the
Première timepiece.
This consistency and savoir-faire are at the crossroads of two
complementary traditions: the tradition of Swiss jewelry watches and
the tradition of haute joaillerie from CHANEL, Place Vendôme. The
first collection of fine jewelry launched by Mademoiselle Chanel
under the name ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ (Diamond Jewelry) dates back
to 1932. Since that date, CHANEL has created a large number of
haute joaillerie pieces, which are often unique pieces or in very limited
series. Among them, each year, are high jewelry watches inspired by
themes that Mademoiselle Chanel held dear: ribbons, bows, tweed,
and even camellias, her favorite flower. With a sense of freedom, high
jewelry liberates itself from the stricter forms of traditional watchmaking,
leaving the doors of imagination wide open to create prestigious and
legendary timekeepers, patiently fashioned by the true artists, the
master jewelers.
The work of the artisan is precise and perfectly meticulous since
the precision of a perfect setting demands tolerances of only a few
microns. The physical proximity between the stone-setting atelier and
those of watch design and production reinforces even more the
interpenetration between cases and timekeeping. This is one of the
27
02.03.11 20:01
The Première
watch
In homage to the beauty of its birthplace,
the Première bears the exact geometry of
the famous Place Vendôme where it
was conceived.
28
02.03.11 20:01
CHANEL, with its propensity for numbers—the No 5 perfume, the 2.55
handbag, and the J12 watch—named its first watch, born in 1987,
quite simply ‘Première’.
pure and essential form, the Première would give birth to a long line of
watches composed of all sorts of materials, continuously transforming
itself, while maintaining its original shape.
As a tribute to the spirit of its place of birth, the shape of this watch is
exactly like that of the famous Place Vendôme, where it was designed.
The Place plays a central role in the history of CHANEL, where the
most prestigious boutique is located. Beginning in 1934, the Place
Vendôme was also the setting for a large part of Mademoiselle
Chanel’s life, as she chose to live in a suite at the Hotel Ritz, located on
the other side of the Place, where she passed away in January 1971.
It is rare that a watch case is so fine, so delicate and so recognizable
by its inspired shape and architecture. Never before has a watch
showcased so many creative possibilities of a bracelet. A supple
bond, fine and delicate like one of the ribbons Mademoiselle Chanel
loved so much - waterfalls of Akoya cultured pearls on a white gold
thread, cascades of diamonds, rows of high-tech white ceramic links or
black ceramic links inserted between white gold or steel links, plaited
leather and steel chains, or even rubber links.
With its octagonal case topped by a sapphire crystal with cut-off
corners, the Première watch very precisely takes the form of the Place
Vendôme. This even applies to the two simple baton hands that evoke
the shadow of the Vendôme Column in the center of the Place. With its
There are so many distinct facets, so many diverse incarnations, so
many faces to feminine watchmaking. For the Première, this is only
the beginning.
29
02.03.11 20:01
1987
launch of CHanel horology.
the première timepiece is
inspired by the shape of the
place vendôme and the stopper
of the no. 5 perfume bottle.
2004
launch of the collection J12
eDitiOnS eXClUSiveS.
limited editions set with the most
beautiful baguette gem stones.
2000
Launch of the J12, the first sports
watch by CHanel in HiGHteCH CeramiC for men and
women.
2005
J12 tOUrbillOn (limited
edition of 12 pieces)
CHanel enters into the HaUte
HOrlOGerie arena with a
mechanical manual tourbillon
movement. the base plate of this
movement is made out of ceramic
for the first time: a technical
revolution!
2001
J12 DiamOnDS.
the J12 is decorated with
diamonds, the favorite stone of
mademoiselle Chanel
2006
J12 HaUte JOaillerie
(limited edition of 5 pieces)
604 baguette diamonds (~31 carats).
2003
The first J12 in high-tech white
ceramic: immaculate and pure
white. A world-first timepiece
that imposes the color white on
watchmaking.
2007
kEy DATES
to celebrate its 20th anniversary
the première timepiece is
produced in a pearl version
that is smaller and even more
precious.
30
02.03.11 20:01
2008
new première collection
fitted with a HIGH-TECH
ceramic bracelet and white gold
or steel.
2009
J12 NOIR INTENSE: White
gold set with 724 black ceramic
baguettes, a technical and
aesthetic feat—the ceramic is
cut and faceted like the most
beautiful precious stones. this
exceptional piece is equipped
with the Chanel ap-3125
movement and is limited to 5
pieces.
première in white gold and
set with diamonds (~ 3.11 carats).
J12 rÉtrOGraDe
MYSTÉRIEUSE: A myriad of
innovations coupling complications
and world firsts—tourbillon, digital
minute reading, retrograde minute
hand, 10-day power reserve and
retractable vertical crown.
the work for this complication was
trusted to one of the most ‘state-ofthe-art’ conception/construction
workshops, that of Giulio papi
(aprp Sa).
J12 MARINE: An authentic and
professional diving watch, the J12
marine departs on a conquest for new
territories – those of the depths of
the sea.
CHanel brings a new color
to watchmaking with the J12
Chromatic. a model made of
titanium ceramic, a new material
which is highly resistant to
scratches. a unique color and
shimmer are obtained thanks
to the combination of titanium
and ceramic and polishing with
diamond powder.
2011
2010
J12 CALIBRE 3125: The J12 is
equipped with a new audemars
piguet automatic movement
personalized for CHanel and
exclusive.
J12 29 MM: The newest member of
the J12 family is created with a mini
case measuring 29 mm in diameter.
an XS model especially for women.
31
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32
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02.03.11 20:01
REf : H8529 GB
02.03.11 20:01
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