Beauty Packaging

Transcription

Beauty Packaging

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief
New Technologies
Highlight
Color Cosmetics Packaging
Cylindrical caps can be decorated in an eye-popping way thanks to
unique technology from Tapematic USA, Inc.
Makeup is the new skin care as far as retail figures go,
and packaging often plays a key role in consumers’ preferences
for everything from portability to multifunctionality. Customization, decoration and evolving
formulations are challenging suppliers to look at cosmetic components in a whole new way.
C
olor Cosmetics are hot, hot hot—overtaking
skin care in sales for the first time in years. Along
with this upward spiral comes a scrambling for
popular brands. At press time it seems inevitable that
P&G is about to put two of its premier properties CoverGirl and Max Factor on the auction block. And rumors
surround a possible purchase of trendsetting Too-Faced
Cosmetics and South Korean’s fun and affordable brand
30 • Beauty Packaging
Too Cool for School by The Estée Lauder Companies.
Whether mass or prestige, consumers are looking for
products in packaging that stands out with a high-end
look. And suppliers are responding by delivering cosmetics that are not only attractive, but also portable, effective, multifunctional, customized and cleverly named to
boot—as makeup aficionados want it all.
But in this industry, just when you think you have a
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June 2015
New Technologies Highlight Color Cosmetics Packaging
handle on the latest trends, suddenly things can take on a
new dimension. As you’ll read in this article, one forecast
is for cosmetics that have taken their cue from the food
and drink industry, and thus, require refrigeration, which
presents a whole new challenge for cosmetic packaging
suppliers. While mascara tubes have taken on a plethora
of shapes and sizes over the last few years, we found one
that has now broken the mold to adapt to consumers’
desire to get every last drop of a formulation. Digital applications and decorating techniques for packaging have
also started to gain ground in the Color Cosmetics world.
Trends from Korea also continue to shape new product launches, with alphabet creams and cushion compacts
impacting new developments worldwide. Pipettes, too,
have emerged as exacting applicators for launches from
blush to foundation.
Viktorija Gnatoka/global packaging analyst at Mintel,
tells Beauty Packaging, “I love the packaging from South
Korea designed by LG Household & Health Care. The
packages are aesthetically very beautiful and highly functional—and many embrace the heritage of the culture
and country.
Research from NPD backs up the trend, showing that in
the first quarter of 2015, makeup outperformed the overall prestige market and experienced double-digit growth
across many segments, including lip liner, eyebrow makeup,
and face applicators. Sales reached $1.1 billion.
“The shift in where women focus their color needs
and desires is a natural one, and it will no doubt change
again,” says Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst,
The NPD Group—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s
board of advisors. “Color is key when it comes to makeup. It’s the area where consumers play with fashion and
are willing to experiment as they seek ways to make bold
statements and refresh their look.”
Multifunctionality Multiplies
With consumers leading on-the-go, action-packed lives,
multifunctional products have captured their interest, leading to a variety of packages that can perform dual functions
and be pulled from a purse for day or night applications.
Gnatoka says functionality—and multifunctionality—
has been on the rise with consumers wanting products
that can perform several functions at the same time. “UsLancôme’s Le Duo Contour &
Highlighter Stick and Sephora’s
Upside Down Mascara feature two
different ends of the product for
various applications.
Trends from South Korea continue to shape new Color Cosmetic
product launches. Shown here are a few favorites from Viktorija Gnatoka,
global packaging analyst at Mintel.
Cosmetic Sales on the Rise
According to new research from RnRMarketResearch.
com, the Color Cosmetics market is projected to register
approximately $47 billion by 2019, with the high market
share held by North America and Europe together, due
to high consumer disposable income, innovations in color cosmetics and new product launches.The high growth
is forecasted to be in the Asia-Pacific countries, mostly
China and India, due to an increase in disposable spending—and a rising preference for prestige products.
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June 2015
For Kat Von D Shade + Light Eye Contour Palette ($46), Kat tapped into
makeup pro secrets and her own work as a sketch artist to create what the
brand says is the first eye shadow palette specially designed for eye contouring.
ers of multifunctional products are motivated by simplifying their beauty routines and by an ability to achieve
the desired look faster,” she says.
This leads to an increase of novel applicators such as
brushes, sponges, etc., that assist consumers in product
application. Gnatoka explains, “We have seen applicators
with cooling and massage effects that sometimes visually seem to be a replica of regular beauty devices. For
example, for Spring 2015, Lancôme launched Le Duo
Contour & Highlighter Stick that features two different
ends of the product for different applications, and Sephora introduced its multitasking upside down mascara.
At HCT Group, Winnie Sung, director of sales, has
also seen a comeback of dual functionality in both formulation as well as packaging. She says HCT Group has
received a lot of requests for formulations that can be
used multiple ways—such as lip and cheek tints or eye
shadows that can be used wet and dry, as well as packaging with multiple functions such as the supplier’s new
airless pumps with applicators in the cap or base. “I think
that with women leading busier lives, taking on multiple
roles in the office and at home or just traveling more in
general, there is a need for cosmetics to keep up with our
sometimes hectic lifestyle, be portable and take on multiple roles as we often do. It’s easier to tote around a few
streamlined items than lugging around a large makeup
bag full of products,” says Sung.
Nicole Amorosino, director of product sales, HCT
Group, agrees with Sung, saying that in the past year or
so, there have been more and more innovations in packaging that is multifunctional. “We have seen many twoin-one products over the years, but lately more packages
are being developed that could be as many as four-in-one.
I think this is really speaking to the market and how the
consumer behaves.The consumer is looking to buy more
products that serve more than one function, and that they
can take with them on the go.”
In addition to multifunctionality, multiple color choices
Ittse Makes Makeup Fun
Ittse, a newly launched San Francisco startup from two luxury cosmetic brand pros,
brings playfulness and interactivity together in a beautifully designed cosmetic palette with a magnetic compartment in which you can mix and match more than 100
magnetized pressed shadows, brow and complexion products for instant customization. The palette is offered in three fashionable colors. All refill pans are packaged in a reusable, crystal clear, plastic clamshell and tucked into a charmingly
decorated, soft-touch, cardboard sleeve adorned with gold foil. A sheet of “it-girl”
stickers is enclosed to add to the fun.
Gretchen Chevalier, founder & CEO, says, “In creating a new beauty business
it was my mission to respond to a specific consumer demand that I’d seen go unanswered for years—an extensive line of high-quality yet affordable color cosmetics that are completely customizable. It was
paramount that the palette packaging be both functional and chic while also satisfying the customizable requirement. Thus
I selected luxuriously finished outer fabrics with gold accent stitching and sized the pallette to accommodate the optimal
number of products while still being comfortable and sleek in the palm of a hand.”
beautypackaging.com
June 2015
Tarte’s new tarteist clay paint liner ($24)
lays claim as the first eyeliner in a tube.
The squeezable cream liner comes complete
with a unique palette tip delivery system
and angled brush.
are also all the rage. Ed Fabiszak, VP
sales & marketing at SussexIM, says
there has been a reemergence of larger palette compacts that offer greater
makeup options within a single package.
Virginia Lee, analyst for Euromonitor International, points to Advent calendars for holiday 2014 that offered
recipients and self-gifters the opportunity to try multiple products. She
says nail polish maker Ciaté offered the
Ciaté Mini Mani Manor Advent Calendar, which offered nail art lovers 24 nail
polishes along with glitter sprinkles and
caviar pearls inside a box that looks like
a house.
Another noticeable trend this past year has been the
return of contouring palettes with multiple shades designed to reveal and conceal.
Mike Daum, Derik Industrial, says they have seen a
continuing and growing trend for contouring/sculpting
kits/color palettes. “We are getting a large number of
inquiries from brands ‘chasing’ this trend,” says Daum.
Customization Trend
Another evolving trend in Color
Cosmetics is customization—and
here, packaging suppliers have lots
of opportunities. Gnatoka says: “No
two consumers are the same and
they are looking for products that
help express their personality.”
She says, “In beauty we have seen
brands giving consumers a choice
of thousands of personalized formulations such as, for example,
Ioma Ma Crème, but the packaging
has not yet been leveraged. There
are definitely many opportunities to customize packaging in beauty where indeed each consumer is beautiful in
their own way.” For instance, Gnatoka points to Mypackonline, from Digital Packaging in France, which offers to
customize packaging such as boxes, by adding the name
of the person, a photo and a recorded video with the QR
code that will turn the regular pack into a gift.
Customization can also apply to collections that meet
certain marketing criteria.
Fabiszak says he has seen growth in smaller, or targeted
market launches with packaging developed specifically
for a group’s demographics or for a seasonal launch. “Seasonal launches link improved formulations with special
decoration packaging,” he says.
Doug Goodman, president, Goodman Packaging, is a
manufacturer’s rep that has worked with Sussex for decades. He says, “SussexIM has recently responded to standard requests with innovation in technologies including
multi-shot injection molding, small lot customization via
IMLs, personalization via digital watermarking and smart
phone applications, and final assembly in process.”
Always a Delight
Of course, consumers’ desire for a product provides the
most compelling reason for a sale, and is perhaps the most
visible connection to a well-designed and executed package. Mintel’s Gnatoka says “delight” is another trend that
essentially speaks to the aesthetic appeal of color cosmetics packaging.
“The absolutely beautiful packaging of
the Dior Diorific range creates a desire to
not only use—but even to simply own
the product,” says Mintel’s Gnatoka.
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June 2015
“Despite functional attriics line in March 2015 with
butes of packaging that enhance
lipsticks in black architectural
product experience and often
packaging trimmed with gold.”
reinforce the claims made on
While classic black has perpack (for example, certain brush
vaded Color Cosmetics, we seltype for volume or curl masdom see packaging in its flipside
cara), color cosmetics packagof pure, pristine white—but
ing should have that first impact
that has now changed with a
on store shelf with the beautiful
covetable new custom collecand impressive packaging,” she
tion from HCT Group.
says. She cites the Dior Diorific
HCT Group’s Sung, tells
range, which launched around
Beauty Packaging: “Recently,
last year’s holidays. “The absowe created an all zamac cuslutely beautiful packaging cretom cosmetics line for the new
ates a desire to not only use—
brand Lilah b. Using the mateHCT Group created a unique rial, zamac, in an entire line is
but to simply own the product,”
and stunning white, all-zamac extremely rare. This metal is
says Gnatoka.
custom cosmetics line for the new brand Lilah b. quite costly and hard to manGold, the epitome of luxury
has been used on a number of
ufacture so most of the time
packages over the past year, especially among prestige brands. zamac components are used as promotional items or only
Euromonitor’s Lee, says, “Black and gold was a popular as a minor part of the component. We had to get recolor combination for new launches. Fashion house Gu- ally creative in engineering the item—a compact with
cci entered the world of color cosmetics with glossy black a swiveling lid—so that it created the look we wanted
compacts stamped with a gold Gucci logo in fall 2014. without blowing over the customer’s budget.” She says
Actress Eva Mendes introduced her Circa color cosmet- they had to have it look substantial all while trying to use
Smith & Cult
Uniquely Caps Nail Polish
Smith & Cult was created by beauty veteran Dineh Mohajer (co-founder), credited with revolutionizing the color cosmetics
industry with her launch years ago of Hard Candy. Now, Mohajer’s Nailed Lacquer delivers smooth coverage and brilliant
shine in an exclusive 5-Free formula. The name Smith & Cult is meant to express two sides within us: “Smith” is the good
girl, “Cult” is the edgy one.
As far as the unique and eye-catching packaging, Mohajer says: “To be completely candid,
I just make stuff I like/love/dream about. I knew I wanted the packaging, like the name, to
encompass the complexity of our collective beauty experiences. That desire morphed into the
creation of elegantly polished, gold-toned cylindrical caps only then to be hammered to deathish in my backyard (my neighbors were a bit concerned). The juxtaposition of the damaged
caps and flawless bottle parallels the spectrum of our beauty experiences. These imperfections make us who we are, and despite the ups and downs, ultimately more beautiful.”
The provocative story continues on the brand’s website with details on how each shade
was inspired and how it’s representative of the experiences depicted by the heroine in her
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June 2015
turing thousands of pieces and across various materials,”
she explains. “In the end,” says Sung, “the pieces came
out beautifully. The weight of the zamac and the natural
cooling feeling of the metal provided a great tactile quality with an immediate sense of luxury. There really isn’t
another line like it in the market.”
Decorative Techniques/Use of Color
One of the greatest challenges for Color Cosmetics
brands comes in keeping up their image and ensuring that
techniques, including its Card Effect printed paper, which the supplier says is
new products remain fresh and desirable. Gnatoka stresses
ideal for top plate inserts on its Radii Square or Round cardboard compacts.
that packaging definitely contributes to creating this image. She says. “Whether that’s creating a certain celebrity
as little material as possible to keep costs within target range or emphasizing the image of a person, packaging
and to ensure the compact was not going to be too heavy. becomes sort of a personification of all those attributes
In addition to that challenge, says Sung, Lilah b’s core together. Use of various decorative techniques, inks, emcolor was a creamy shade of white. “White is a notori- bossed elements on pack—all create these effects.” Howously challenging color for cosmetic packaging in that it ever, Gnatoka says it is equally important to maintain the
is a hard color to keep consistent throughout manufac- balance and not make packaging so overly complicated
HCP offers a multitude of decorative
June 2015
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Beauty Packaging • 39
SussexIM uses in-mold labeling to create special effects and patterns, which
cially on primary packaging, that creates a whole different
dimension of how packaging is perceived and what look
it creates on shelf.” Bold shapes and designs also stand out.
HCP offers a multitude of decorative techniques, including its Card Effect printed paper, which the supplier
says is ideal for top plate inserts on its Radii Square or
Round cardboard compacts. Eye-catching combinations can be achieved through multiple deco processes
on matte or gloss laminate with embossed or debossed
designs. Foil blocking and shimmer inks are also available, and brands can even
add jewels.
can be targeted to appeal to demographic groups, geographic or cultural
differences, seasonal trends, etc.
The Eyes Have It
that consumers are turned off. She says, “There is always
that thin line that brands have to maintain: “An ability to
stand out on shelf, but also not to turn off the consumers.
Smart use of colors as well as a change in packaging color
often helps to refresh the brand.”
This is why decorative techniques used on packaging
have continuously expanded with suppliers innovating
seemingly endless possibilities.
Gnatoka says knockout techniques include embossed
elements on pack as well as metallized inks—both of
which always create a special effect. “But,” she says, “we
have also seen the use of holograms and 3D effects, espe-
Mascara has long been
known to inspire new
shapes, colors and imaginative decorative techniques—and often hinged
on the applicator. Now,
the latest craze toward
enhancing eyebrows has
spawned a category with
numerous products.
Euromonitor’s Lee says
bold, thick eyebrows were
“in” in 2014, with mul-
CoverGirl Full Lash Bloom Mascara
offers feminine appeal with curvy
hot pink packaging and a brush in
the same color.
Pacifica’s Power of Love
Pacifica just launched its Power of Love Collection exclusive to Target for Spring
2015 as part of Target’s Made to Matter Program, a product collection of leading
natural, organic and sustainable brands. Pacifica’s Power of Love BOGO features
a natural lipstick ($9.99). For every lipstick purchased, Pacifica will give one to a
woman in need. There is also an eye shadow palette.
Brook Harvey-Taylor, Pacifica’s founder and president, says: “We believe in sharing our core value, compassion, with all women. That is why for every Power of
Love lipstick we sell at Target, one lipstick will be donated to a woman in need. By
working with great organizations such as Dress for Success and others of the like,
we can support women in transition.”
For Brook Harvey-Taylor’s backstory on the colorfully packaged, sustainabilitycommitted brand that’s growing by leaps and bounds, please see the Online Exclusive at beautypackaging.com
beautypackaging.com
June 2015
The new award-winning squeezable mascara tube from
Clinique’s new Pop Lip Colour + Primer provides rich
AmorePacific allows users to soften, reposition, and transfer
color + smoothing primer in one swash. Formulated with
the mascara to the applicator with just a light
shea and murumuru butters, the long-lasting flexible
squeeze of the tube so they will get the
polymer blend promises to provide superior moisture
same great experience with each application.
maintenance for lips.
tiple product launches designed to
sculpt. One very unique product,
she says, was the Maybelline Brow
Drama Sculpting Brow Mascara.
“Unlike other gel brow products
that come with a spoolie shape
brush, the Maybelline product featured a round, sculpting ball brush,”
says Lee.
In general, Lee says mascara
brushes are becoming bigger, colorful, and more extravagant. She cites
Maybelline’s Pumped Up! Colos-
sal Mascara with the brand’s
biggest brush—and the brush
tip is yellow. The CoverGirl
brand launched Bombshell
Volume Mascara, which
comes with a pink brush
for the base coat and a black
brush for the topcoat. The
CoverGirl Full Lash Bloom
Mascara offers feminine appeal with curvy hot pink
packaging and a brush in the same color. Meanwhile,
Lancome’s Grandiose Wide-Angle Fan Effect Mascara
June 2015
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For its 2015 Color Collection, the House of
Dior borrowed from its Couture arm,
reimagining designer Raf Simon’s “Tie
Dye” fabric for the creation of an entire
makeup collection—a mix of sun-washed
pastels and blazing color blocks, with subtle
gradations of shades that allow for infinite
combinations. (The Dior Addict Tie Dye
Lipstick features an unexpected innovative
two-tone stick, with a second color infused
in the shape of the Christian Dior “CD” logo
from top to bottom.)
touts the patent-pending “first swanneck wand” to fan out the lashes.
Now, a new and unique mascara package has broken the mold. Just last month, the
pack was singled out for technological advancement and
enhancing the users’ experience, receiving a 2015 DuPont Award for Packaging Innovation.
AmorePacific’s squeezable mascara tube eliminates
consumer frustrations with inconsistent delivery, dried
out product and inability to extract mascara from the
tube. The package claims to be the first matte silicone
mascara tube in the world, and is made of silicone with
an aluminum laminated inner pouch.
The enhanced functionalities of the squeezable mascara tube help to reduce the amount of unusable formula
remaining in the tube and extend
the useful life of the mascara,
while providing a unique tactile sensation.
Mascara tubes can also be
decorated in an eye-popping way
thanks to technology from Tapematic USA, Inc. Tony Denning,
president, says, “Tube printing
[for all types of tubes] is performed on the Tapematic CPrint
cylindrical UV digital printer utilizing CMYK + White printing
processes. With printing speeds up
to 4,800 parts per hour, the CPrint is a
perfect solution for companies that wish to
offer unique full color printing on a wide range
of cylindrical objects.”
Additionally, Tapematic offers a solution for printing
on the top of flat—or even concave—objects, such as
caps, providing some unique decorating opportunities.
The combination of digital printing and Tapematic’s PST
line, which is a fully automated in-line 3D coating and
metallization/sputtering system, accommodates various
shapes and sizes for the cosmetics industry. Denning says,
“Various effects are achievable which are not available
utilizing any current existing technology.”
Building Foundations
Foundations, too, now appear in upgraded packaging to match their advanced formulations—many of
which also include SPF and other skin benefits.
Alex Cripchuck, senior vice president of commercialization, PakLab, says they have also noticed a
“significant increase” in skin care products that offer some color as a payoff apart from the usual immediate benefits like skin smoothness, hydration or
sun. He says, “Tinted moisturizers, in the three basic
shades of light, medium and dark are now being sold
even as part of medicated acne treatments.”
Natural mineral ingredients and silk powder in four rich shades of brown and gray, from Dr Hauschka, enhance
the natural beauty of the eyes—and are ideal for a combination of day-to-night looks. The palette can also be
used on brows. All the packaging from the brand is eco-friendly and is made from recyclable materials.
beautypackaging.com
June 2015
Lee says as foundations become lighter in texture to
meet consumers’ desires for a weightless formula, the
packaging is going beyond glass bottles with screw tops
and pumps to include glass bottles with bulb glass droppers. “The rapid growth in BB and CC creams which
blend benefits of foundation and skin care has prompted
companies to introduce more foundations with skin care
benefits,” explains Lee.
She offers a high-end example: Bobbi Brown’s Intensive Skin Serum Foundation SPF 40, which includes
cordyceps mushroom. Lee says, “The foundation’s bulb
glass dropper reinforces the scientific positioning of the
Bobbi Brown foundation.” At a lower price
point, says Lee, is Maybelline Dream Wonder
Fluid-Touch Foundation “which claims to
be ‘12X Thinner’ than
the leading Maybelline
foundation and also has
a dropper.”
In addition to the actual packaging, foundation makers introduced
new applicators to improve the application
Paklab “turnkeyed” its color BB (sheer
process. Lee says Procter
& Gamble launched coverage) creams for the Mandalay Bay
CoverGirl Ultra Smooth Casino and resort in Las Vegas, under the
Hair Smoothing Foun- name Bay Soleil.The product is based on
dation with a silicone color encapsulation, which “blends with
natural skin color and covers imperdisc applicator to minifections using the same principles as
mize the appearance of
military camouflage technology.”
fine facial hair. Bare Escentuals introduced bare
Minerals bareSkin Pure Brightening Serum Foundation
SPF 20 and its accompanying Perfecting Face Brush. The
Perfecting Face Brush has a fluid reservoir that is claimed
to offer a no-mess, even application.
In keeping with this trend, HCP has received lots of
interest in its 10ml airless pump, which signifies prestige
through its aluminum casing, and has a window to show
the product level. The airless pump has been used for
June 2015
Bobbi Brown’s new glossy, black opaque glass bottle
with dropper and black-on-black crest links skin care
and foundation, and communicates luxe positioning.
serums, foundation primers
and foundations.
Packaging also plays a
strong role in the presentation and delivery of mineral
powder foundations and related products.
According to Michael Salemi, COO, The Packaging
Company, “Cosmetic compact sifters have been used
to package loose power in
the beauty industry for quite
awhile; however, not every beauty company deemed rotatable sifters necessary.”
beautypackaging.com
He says more companies are now realizing the value of a rotatable sifter as
they allow the user to dispense only the
amount of product that is going to be used
each time—which allows the product to
stay fresh longer. Not to mention, they
keep product safe from spills during travel.
Recently, The Packaging Company
customized a sifter to match the cap. Salemi says, “A major cosmetics company
sent us a unique, custom color to
match; this color was used for
a sifter compact cap as we
manufacture custom color rotatable sifter compacts. By adding a special
color and/or artwork, a
cosmetic company can make a standard compact look unique.”
L’Orchidee Rose, Sisley’s highlighting blush with
white lily, enhances the complexion with a luminous sheer tint that is easy to apply and totally
customizable. The trio of shades is specifically designed to contour and enhance by diffusing light
and leaving skin with a subtle bronzed radiance.
tomers are becoming more content with utilizing existing packaging and dressing it up in different
ways… whether it’s in the form
of changing up deck-plate layouts
for compacts or simply changing
the decoration and aesthetics of the
fashion parts. In my opinion, the larger
brands appear to be keeping to the basics
with packaging design as they appear to be
minimizing the costs associated with the more intricate designs. I believe part of the reason is due to
the new formulations coming to market, new ingredients
Dressing Up the Basics
and texture, etc… which equal increased costs—thereAs Salemi noted, adding color can make a big difference fore, less is being spent on the actual packaging.”
in making a custom or stock package stand out. And as
Instead, Eade has seen the increased use of heat transfer
the cost of formulations grows, many brands are turning labels. He says, “The customer is able to achieve so much
to stock packaging to help defray costs.
more for so much less via the use of this decoration techDarren Eade, VP of sales, Kemas, says he has noticed nique.” According to Eade, heat transfer labeling offers
cost issues causing a slowdown in brands utilizing inno- the customer an increased ability to add detail and color
vative decorative techniques on their packaging. He says, to their design and apply it at an affordable cost.
“I think the industry has taken a step back over the past
Eade says in-mold labeling has enabled Kemas to pro12 months and doesn’t appear to be progressing the way duce unique decorative images and keep costs down.
it should or could be. From our perspective, the brands
This was the case with a recent brand request to recreate
are willing to explore more decorative options,
a specific textured finish that had only been
however, the final result is always driven by
done on metal in the past. “The challenge
the cost.”
for us, he explains, “was to try and repHe says, “We’re noticing that cuslicate this finish through an in-mold
process, thus, minimizing the overall
Tigi’s whipped foundation in a spherical “comproduct cost while achieving the
pact” adds a sense of playfulness in a package
same effect.”
that is pleasing to hold, and fun and easy to reSussexIM uses in-mold labeling
trieve from a purse. The oil-free foundation boasts
to create special effects and patterns,
a powder finish, and contains green tea, aloe and
which can be targeted to appeal to
Vitamins A & C, all of which the brand says help to
demographic groups, geographic or
fight the signs of aging and restore suppleness.
cultural differences, seasonal trends, etc.
beautypackaging.com
June 2015
Keeping Up
With Formulations
The star of Guerlain’s summer 2015 collection is My Terracotta Bronzing Powder ($55).
Make it your own by dressing your compact in a summery-colored sleeve. Both the Caribbean-blue
Not only are ever-advancing
turquoise and sunset-inspired coral sleeves are reusable, and simple to remove and reapply.
formulas affecting packaging costs, they’re also dictating appropriate materials to
be used in order to ward off
incompatibility issues—and
work to preserve the precious and sensitive products.
SussexIM’s Fabiszak says
he has noticed that many of
the new formulations being
developed are direct pour
into the primary package,
which results in bonding
problems. “We are working on developing solutions to lies in innovation,” such as with the true liquid to powthe unforeseen bonding problems that arise,” he says.
der color foundation produced by the company’s R&D
According to Paklab’s Cripchuck, “Uniqueness still team. He says, “The product went from wet to dry in a
June 2015
beautypackaging.com
few seconds and the effect was so dramatic that finding
the right component that would prevent the remaining
product in the pump from caking was the biggest challenge for us this year. The solution demanded a complete shift in our thinking and we finally resolved the
issue by modifying the delivery system with the help of
Aptar, one of our preferred supplier partners.”
New packaging challenges are also on the horizon
as refrigerated beauty products expand into the cosmetics category.
Ali Poston, director of product development and marketing, Kolmar Laboratories, Inc., tells Beauty Packaging:
“The food and beverage industry is really driving the
trends in both color cosmetic formulation and packaging.”
She says, in packaging, “You see this with brands
like Tony Moly, which uses their packaging to tie directly into their product marketing. For example, their
mini lip balm packaging that looks like a piece of fruit
provides a playful yet distinguishable solution to identifying the ingredients within the product.”
Kolmar’s Ali Poston says the influence of food and beverage is driving innovation in the texture of color cosmetics as well as with the packaging. She says
this is already happening in Asia with brands like JejuBaram [pictured], and
“will certainly be a shift for the U.S. market as well.”
However, to take that influence a step further, says
Poston, “The most interesting conversation happening
in color cosmetics is refrigerated beauty products. The
influence from the food and beverage industry is going to take merchandising color cosmetics to a new
level, therefore affecting both formulation and packaging development.” She says we are going to start to see
beauty products being shipped, stored and marketed
much like products in the food and beverage industry.
“We are seeing this now,” she says, “with the surge
of nutricosmetics and products like beauty juices that
address the ‘beauty from within/you are what you eat’
trend, which requires refrigeration.”
Poston says the influence of food and beverage is
not limited to nutricosmetics though—it is also driving innovation in the texture of color cosmetics.
“With new innovation in color cosmetic formulation
evolving into products that offer transformations in texture and provide more of a sensory experience for the
consumer, innovation in packaging, in all its forms, will
be crucial to accommodate these sensitive systems. As we
see the rise of refrigerated beauty products and products
that need temperature controlled storage conditions, we
will see a shift in packaging and delivery of color cosmetics, as we are seeing a bit more in skin care.”This, she says,
is already happening in Asia with brands like, JejuBaram,
and will certainly be a shift for the U.S. market as well.
Future Trends
Technology is also expanding its role in the future of Color
Cosmetics packaging. Mintel’s Gnatoka, tells Beauty Packaging, “I think we will see higher use of 3D printers to create
unique designs and packaging details that will contribute
to the whole pack.” Blending with the multifunctionality
momentum, Gnatoka says, “We have seen blurring categories in Color Cosmetics and in the beauty market in general, and I think this will eventually be reflected in packaging with novel hybrid packs that combine the attributes of
two products in one. We might see a combination of the
best two parts from two packs that will enhance the product experience and improve application.”
For example, Gnatoka says, “According to Mintel in
South Korea, a new generation of hybrid lip tints is on the
rise, and accounted for 14% of total lip cosmetic launches
in the country in 2014. This novel lipstick format responds to consumers’ interest in long-wear and hydrating
lip products. This eventually will lead to novel packaging
solutions to support such product launches.” BP
For more on
Color Cosmetics Packaging,
go to BeautyPackaging.com
beautypackaging.com
June 2015

Beauty Packaging

Transcription

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