holiday guide - San Francisco

Transcription

HOLIDAY GUIDE
SANFRANCISCO.TRAVEL
SAN FRANCISCO HOLIDAY GUIDE 2014/2015
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
5 MUST-SEES THIS HOLIDAY SEASON 2
REASONS SAN FRANCISCO IS AWESOME DURING THE HOLIDAYS 4
HOLIDAY SHOPPING 7
SAN FRANCISCO-MADE GIFT IDEAS 9
GREAT DRINKS ON A CHILLY DAY 11
12 DAYS OF SAN FRANCISCO CHRISTMAS 13
THINGS TO DO ON CHRISTMAS DAY 16
A LUXURIOUS START TO THE NEW YEAR 18
SOUNDS OF THE SEASON 20
A TASTE OF THE HOLIDAYS 22
FIVE MUST-SEES
IN SAN FRANCISCO
THIS HOLIDAY SEASON
SAN FRANCISCO LOVES THE HOLIDAYS SO MUCH that it can’t restrict
itself to a single giant Christmas tree. There are actually three: the famous
one in Union Square, an officially nondenominational one at City Hall,
and another at PIER 39. But once you’ve wished for peace on Earth and
goodwill to all, there’s still plenty to do besides wait in line at the Apple store.
Between major art shows, musical events and big performances,
winter is over-flowing with culture.
1
While devotees of cartoonist Charles Schulz
may still want to drive to Sonoma County
(home to his museum and an airport that
bears his name) thanks to the San Francisco
Symphony, the Peanuts gang is a little closer.
From Dec. 19–24 the beloved holiday classic,
“A Charlie Brown Christmas” gets a fresh
update as the symphony interprets Vince
Guaraldi’s jazz-inflected score with additional
video sets. It’s a great way to introduce new
generations to two of life’s eternal passions,
classical music and Snoopy.
CONTINUED
2
Higher up the cultural food chain is “@Large:
Ai Weiwei on Alcatraz,” a major show from
the Chinese dissident that runs through Apr.
26, 2015. Opening the island up to an exhibit
by an artist once detained for 81 days is
dramatic, especially given Ai’s emphasis on
prisoners of conscience. Visitors can sit in
previously closed-off cells and hear recordings
by Fela Kuti, or wander through the complex’s
vast spaces to view more site-specific
installations. There is no additional cost to the
$30 round-trip ferry, but advance reservations
are a must because the National Park Service
caps daily attendance.
sanfrancisco.travel . 2
3
Twenty-four years after his death, artist Keith
Haring’s influence has only grown. From HIV/
AIDS to racial equality, his ability to blend
levity and gravitas brought a much-needed
sense of hope to serious social issues. The de
Young Museum’s Keith Haring: The Political
Line (Nov. 8, 2014–Feb. 16, 2015) promises
to be a massive retrospective of the most
indelible street art of the ‘80s. The 130-piece
show includes previously unseen work as
well as some famous examples of Haring’s
energetic, line-driven style.
4
Take a break from the usual holiday fare
during Cirque du Soleil’s mind-bending
“Kurios – Cabinet of Curiosities” under
the Big Top at AT&T Park. Opening Nov. 14
this is the U.S. premiere of the show and the
exclusive Northern California engagement. An
exercise in whimsy and steampunk, “Kurios”
includes aerialists, contortionists, and an
“upside-down world” where a dinner-party
hangs upwards from a chandelier.
5
de Young Museum
September’s Folsom Street Fair may have
come and gone, but a lighter depiction
of fetish wear runs Dec. 2–28 at the SHN
Orpheum Theater. “Kinky Boots,” Harvey
Fierstein and Cindy Lauper’s high-heeled
musical about a failing shoe factory that teams
up with a drag queen in want of some sturdy
stilettos, was a breakout hit on Broadway in
2012. The winner of six Tony Awards (including
Best Musical), it’s a critics’ darling, an audience
favorite and a perfect choice for a city that
flies its freak flag at full mast.
@Large: Ai Weiwei on Alcatraz
REASONS WHY
SAN FRANCISCO
IS AWESOME
DURING THE HOLIDAYS
DON’T BE FOOLED by the warmth, palm trees and secularism,
San Francisco is actually quite the holiday wonderland for the last few weeks
of the year. From the traditional to the tongue-in-cheek, the sacred to the
XXXmas, the City by the Bay has something for everybody —
you might even get away with short sleeves!
Union Square
CONTINUED
Take a trip back in time to nineteenth-century London for The Great Dickens Christmas Fair &
Victorian Holiday Party at the Cow Palace on weekends (Nov. 22–Dec. 21). Roasted chestnuts,
carolers and Father Christmas harken back to the era’s bygone innocence (although the Victorian
component can get a little saucy). In a venue stuffed full of gifts and seven stages’ worth of live
entertainment, this is no abridged version of a Dickens classic.
If you want more of Tiny Tim, don’t skip “A Christmas Carol” (Dec. 5–28), the American
Conservatory Theater’s perennial favorite. Full of original music and dramatic staging, this timeless
tale is as fun the sixth time as it is the first. The Ghost of Christmas-Yet-to-Come might spook some
tots, but the theater’s tasty hot chocolate and cider should make up for it.
Right next door to A.C.T. is the Curran Theatre, where the traveling musical “Elf” will take up
residence (Dec. 12–28). Based on the 2003 Will Ferrell film, it’s the story of a wayward North Pole
toymaker coming to realize he’s actually human. His misadventures in New York in search of his
biological family and his child-like love of all things Christmas have made “Elf” a new holiday classic.
San Francisco Ballet
Speaking of classics, Tchaikovsky’s “The
Nutcracker” made its American premiere at
the San Francisco Ballet on Christmas Eve,
1944, and it’s been an annual hit ever since.
Packing 30 performances into 17 days (Dec.
12–29), the dancers introduce thousands of
young minds to the athleticism and grace of
ballet. Just don’t let the Mouse King’s army
follow you to the Land of Sweets.
For those who want high art without holiday themes, the San Francisco Opera’s production of
“Cinderella” (Nov. 9–26) is a stunningly elaborate affair. The original fairy tale and beloved Disney
film might be familiar but Gioachino Rossini’s less-well-known epic is filled with fantastic romance. If
you prefer a more traditional version — albeit with a twist — then reserve tickets for the renowned
African-American Shakespeare Company’s version of “Cinderella” (Dec. 6–21).
Having commuted from the Yukon tundra, the reindeer at the California Academy of Science’s “Tis
the Season for Science” aren’t just for petting. They’re there to teach kids and adults about insulating
fur and UV vision, too. Penguins, a Snowman Theater and live musical performances make this brilliant
program a must-see during its six-week run (Nov. 27–Jan. 5).
The waterfront is always a popular destination, but every December, PIER 39 and Aquatic Park
overflow with revelers applauding the Lighted Boat Parade (Dec. 12). Some 60 ships, decorated
nearly to the point of threatening their own buoyancy, sail from Fisherman’s Wharf to Crissy Field and
back. (Note: if you miss the parade itself, the fleet stays lit through the season.)
No Christmas season is complete without several Santas running amok. Ostensibly a toy drive, but
mostly an afternoon of carousing, SantaCon’s twentieth anniversary starts at noon in Union Square
(Dec. 13) and fans out across the city. In years past, there have been snowball fights in Duboce
Park, but weather permitting, it’s usually an excuse for scantily-clad Kris Kringles to flirt and be
photographed. In the spirit of the season, SF SantaCon is always good clean fun.
CONTINUED
When the SF SPCA and Macy’s in Union Square team up to display adorable, adoptable pets in the
windows, it’s a sight that would make the Grinch’s heart grow two sizes. Over 10 years, they’ve raised
almost half a million dollars and found homes for 2,300 furry friends. After all, this is the season to
remember the less fortunate, which can also mean puppies.
If you can’t see the Mormon Tabernacle Choir or get to Carnegie Hall, let Chanticleer come to you.
The famed all-male vocal ensemble is bringing A “Chanticleer Christmas,” its take on Renaissance
music studded with traditional carols and Gregorian chants, to seven major churches across the Bay
Area (Dec. 12–22). The acoustics alone are warm enough to chase away any winter chill.
San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus
For a slightly less traditional
take on Yuletide cheer, the
San Francisco Gay Men’s
Chorus hosts two different
events. On Dec. 12 and
13, the chorus will perform
pop-inflected holiday
classics with Well-Strung, an
accompanying string quartet.
The real extravaganza is the
25-year-old Christmas Eve
show at the Castro Theatre.
With local drag celebrities,
a 1980s Nativity and an ugly
sweater contest, it’s where
the sacred waltzes with
the profane.
If you really want to up the irreverence quotient, “A John Waters Christmas” comes to town Nov. 29
at Great American Music Hall. The iconic director ventures into the realms of high kitsch with this
one-man monologue, plummeting deep into his love of tacky seasonal novelty songs and true crime
holiday tales. (Strictly for people who want schlock in their stockings.)
Undoubtedly, the world’s largest Christmas hat is found at Beach Blanket Babylon’s “Seasonal
Extravaganza.” The long-running North Beach revue that combines topical humor, madcap sketches
and enormous headpieces plays up commercial excesses with a wink and a nod. Catch a performance
throughout the month of December, when innuendo stretches PG-13 to its limits. Pro-tip: BBB’s two
New Year’s Eve shows are the wackiest of them all.
One step up the drag ladder is the inestimable tradition of “The Golden Girls: The Christmas
Episodes,” an annual rite whereby four of San Francisco’s biggest drag queens play Dorothy, Blanche,
Rose and Sophia for 12 performances. They take a few liberties with the scripts, but only to make
Christmas in Miami unbeatable. Best of all, you can line up to have your picture taken with them after
the show — a great headstart on your Xmas card for next year.
HOLIDAY
SHOPPING
IN SAN FRANCISCO
THE SOPHISTICATION OF SAN FRANCISCO shines most brightly in
the city’s food scene, but world-class shopping is a close second. Whether
you’re looking for a special gift or secretly splurging on yourself,
the city is brimming with high-end boutiques, trend-conscious local
shops, quirky vintage stores and everything in-between.
Ringed by hotels and theaters, Union Square is as much a shopping Mecca as a public plaza.
Prominent department stores such as Macy’s, Barney’s and Neiman Marcus command attention,
but savvy newcomers such as the John Varvatos, Fresh, Inc. and Uniqlo have given the retail-rich
neighborhood a fresh gloss. Premier luxury boutiques (Prada, Burberry and Dior) and massive
shopping experiences like the Levi’s flagship store, Britex and Gump’s keep Union Square on top of
most San Francisco shoppers’ nice list.
Over the past 20 years, Hayes Valley has transformed from concrete jungle to major shopping
destination. On three blocks of Hayes Street (plus adjacent side streets), you can browse well-curated
shops that reward bold tastes. Discover reimagined Mexican folk art at Polanco, jewelry at Rand +
Statler, or leather goods at Reliquary. A slew of menswear options has recently opened, too, including
Welcome Stranger, Azalea and Aether. Don’t miss Proxy, an avant-garde space built from stacked
shipping containers and filled with emerging trends and talent.
CONTINUED
In the Mission District, thriving Valencia Street’s retail origins are visible in its thrift shops and
specialized bookstores. More recent arrivals to the corridor include uber-hip boutiques (Voyager Shop),
terrariums and taxidermy (Paxton Gate) and Japanese denim (Self Edge). Plucky holdout Aquarius
Records, the gift-filled Italian deli Lucca Ravioli, an audiophile’s paradise, Dijital Fix, and lifestyle
emporium, Harrington Galleries, are all among the best in their respective categories, citywide.
The stretch of Fillmore Street running from Sutter north to Clay Street is home to a greater
concentration of spas than just about anywhere else in the city. Major health and beauty chains
(Jurlique, L’Occitane, Nars and Kiehl’s) abound, and for apparel, Betsey Johnson and Marc by Marc
Jacobs preside over dozens of boutiques. Fillmore is also home to a wealth of high-quality dining, so if
you’re weary from a day of shopping adventures, a delicious respite is never far from reach.
While it might be confusing to some visitors, Union Street is nowhere near Union Square. This strip
of the Marina District is home to lavish health-and-beauty emporiums such as the Lash Lab and Neja
Cosmetics. Additional offerings include specialists in juice cleanses, pilates and yoga pants. Other
gems include jewelers such as David Clay and Jest Jewels; Moulin Pooch, possibly San Francisco’s
fanciest pet shop; and Ambiance, voted “Best Boutique” by SF Weekly for seven years running.
For a perfectly personalized gift, PIER 39’s more than 60 locally-owned shops are home to some of
the city’s most unique and specialized shopping. Only here can you find a store full of left–handed
merchandise (Lefty’s), hot sauce galore (Hot Licks) and cowboy couture (Wilder West) all in one place.
Be sure to keep in mind that Saturday, Nov. 29, is Small Business Saturday. Started by American
Express, everything about this event on the Saturday after Thanksgiving is big for shoppers — and
even bigger for supporting local businesses.
Westfield San Francisco Centre
CONTINUED
Just two blocks from Union Square, Westfield San
Francisco Centre offers San Francisco’s ultimate style
collection, the West Coast flagship Bloomingdale’s,
the second largest Nordstrom in the United States,
200 shops and restaurants, as well as San Francisco’s
largest day spa, Burke Williams. Polaroid Fotobar, the
first location in San Francisco, opens in time for the
holidays. Stop by and instantly print images from smart
phones, Facebook and digital platforms. Kate Spade
and Club Monaco stores have just been remodeled;
ASICS debuts this season along with a brand new
restaurant concept, TAP (415), from the team behind
Twenty Five Lusk. Westfield’s iconic dome comes to
life every evening with a spectacular 3D light show
that showcases one of San Francisco’s most beloved
traditions: the San Francisco Ballet’s “Nutcracker.”
MADE IN SAN FRANCISCO:
HOLIDAY
GIFT IDEAS
THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT GIFT leads people to do some strange things,
like skipping Thanksgiving dinner to brave the crowds on Black Friday. But
when it comes to finding one-of-a-kind items for everyone on your nice list, the
solution is here: handmade gifts from San Francisco’s creative community.
Weeks ahead of Black Friday, the Renegade Craft Fair gives you a jump start on holiday shopping.
The Fort Mason Center Festival Pavilion goes electric for two days (Nov. 8–9) as hordes of printers,
pressers, jewelers, crafters and accessorizers descend on the Marina. Best of all, entrance is free. San
Francisco is pretty cool and all, but the fact that we’re one of only seven cities with a Renegade Craft
Fair is among the ultimate stamps of hipness.
CONTINUED
Downtown
San Francisco
Formerly Bazaar Bizarre SF, the San Francisco
Bazaar Holiday Show takes over the airplanehangar-sized Herbst Pavilion at the Fort Mason
Center for its eighth-annual juried bonanza (Dec.
13–14). Some 150 selected vendors — including
chefs and food truck proprietors — will be hawking
their wares. Between the photo booth, the DIY
workshops and the Craft Raffle, you’ll find nearly
everything handmade and limited-edition, by locals
and for locals (or visitors in the know). It’s a great
way to tackle your list in style (even if you waited
until the last minute).
As Fort Mason’s grip on craft fairs tightens every year, culture vultures can skip from the Bazaar
straight to the SFMade Holiday Gift Fair in the Fleet Room. This slightly smaller event (also Dec.
13–14) showcases the work of 50 Bay Area artisans. Expect to find everything from screen-printed
t-shirts to local wineries, picklers and organic skin care products, among other items.
As with quality thrifting, sometimes the best crafts are found slightly off the beaten track. For the
benefit of your discerning eye and your procrastinating feet, KPFA Radio (94.1 FM) is holding their
200-artisan strong crafts fair at the Craneway Pavilion in Richmond on the weekend before Christmas
(Dec. 20–21). Innovative glassworkers, furniture-makers and photographers add to the usual collection
of bags and prints, while a host of non-profit booths keeps the vibe socially conscious.
Without the Urban Air Market or Black Market SF’s 1920s-themed curio collections taking place in
November or December, serious art fans steel themselves for Creativity Explored’s Annual Holiday
Art Sale (Dec. 5–31). Over 100 artists — from painters to sculptors — set up their stalls at this Mission
institution (now in its thirtieth year). It’s a perfect spot to start redecorating your living room with
locally made art.
Of course, there are plenty of options other than special seasonal events when it comes to locally
made goodies. At the Museum of Craft and Design, the gift shop’s “I Left My Heart in San
Francisco” collection includes locally printed tea towels with iconic San Francisco images, up-cycled
coasters, artistically inclined maps and more.
At the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero, you can get a taste of San Francisco any time of
year. Drop by La Cocina for an assortment of local edibles that you can use to fuel your shopping
adventures (or save to use as stocking stuffers). Or, head farther into the Bay on the last weekend
of every month for the venerable Treasure Island Flea. There, you’ll find hundreds of local vendors
selling everything from antiques to custom fashions as well as local wine, food and more.
You might need some help carrying everything you find during your visit. For a gift that’s as handsome
as it is handy, check out the selection of hand-made bags from Rickshaw Bagworks. Whether you
prefer a messenger bag, tote or anything in-between, they’re perfect for transporting your holiday
haul back home if you run out of space in your suitcase.
GREAT DRINKS
FOR A CHILLY DAY
Bartender at Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
The Slanted Door
GIVEN SAN FRANCISCO’S MERCURIAL CLIMATE, December can be
pleasantly temperate — although you should always be wary of fog or oceanic
winds, which can deliver a sudden chill. Chicagoans might bristle at
our definition of cold, but along with an emergency sweater, every
San Franciscan carries a mental list of places to seek warm refuge in
case the marine layer smothers a lovely afternoon. Whether you’re looking
to recharge with a tasty treat or need a spot to warm your bones,
here are some great drinks for chilly days.
CONTINUED
Riders on the city’s famous cable cars have long stopped for an Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista Café.
The first in America (according to the historical plaque), their method of aging and frothing the cream
so that it floats dates back to 1952. It’s not far from PIER 39, so it’s a great spot to warm up before or
after festivities like the Tree Lighting Celebration.
Smuggler’s Cove in Hayes Valley is a unique place: it’s devoted entirely to rum. And with 400 in stock,
there is no better venue for a hot buttered rum than this beloved tiki bar, lauded by Bon Appetit
and Esquire for its cocktails. Prepared with Demerara rum and a secret spice mix, it would warm up a
pirate of the Caribbean who’s marooned in the Arctic.
The hot toddy is an uncomplicated
drink that can be had almost
anywhere. But if it begins to feel more
like a folk remedy for the common
cold than a proper libation, head
to Elixir in the Mission. A staple of
any dive bar tour, this neo-Victorian
saloon serves more than 330 different
whiskeys, meaning that basic hot
toddy can take on vanilla notes or a
serious peaty flavor.
Samovar Tea
Lounge
If ever a jaded San Francisco resident claims there are no good restaurants on the waterfront, grab
them by the wrist and bring them to The Slanted Door, recently named Outstanding Restaurant in the
U.S. by James Beard Foundation, for afternoon tea (2:30–4:30 p.m. daily). Among the herbal blends
and oolongs, you’ll find black Hong Kong milk tea and Thousand Days red jasmine, perfect for when
the breeze is stiff. There’s an afternoon food menu as well.
Loose leaf tea lovers have long flocked to Samovar’s three tea houses (in the Castro, Yerba Buena and
Hayes Valley), but the opening of their decidedly high-concept Valencia Street location was an abrupt
shift. This minimalist, travertine-filled space was literally designed around the stone mugs, offering
restorative tonics like Green Ecstasy (made with Japanese sencha and matcha powder).
Tea’s resurgence pales beside the dominance of Third Wave coffee, however, and San Francisco’s
premier temple to caffeination remains the flagship Sightglass Coffee in SoMa. Beautiful, barn-like,
and Wi-Fi-less this café-roastery is as full of tech workers as industrial equipment and sacks of beans,
all of them queuing patiently for innovative drip coffees harvested from small lots.
Should coffee start to feel a little utilitarian, the eastern European hot chocolate at Boulette’s
Larder is a decadent affair: thick, fortifying and served straight out of a copper kettle. It’s a perfect
accompaniment to browsing the Ferry Building farmers market on a gusty Saturday morning, as it’ll
keep your hand nice and toasty.
But since this is San Francisco, Mexican hot chocolate must not be overlooked. No taquería has the
bragging rights to authenticity that La Oaxaqueña has. Slightly gritty though this block of Mission
Street may be, the cinnamon-y Mexican hot chocolate here is a genuine treat. Made with ground
almonds, it’s even better with a pinch of guajillo chili powder for that addictive burn.
12 DAYS OF
SAN FRANCISCO
CHRISTMAS
In keeping with the creatively disruptive spirit of San Francisco’s musicians,
merchants, chefs and other co-conspirators we have slightly revised the
timeless holiday tune “The Twelve Days of Christmas,” tongue-in-cheek, in time
for the 2014 holiday season. No re-gifting of water fowl required.
1
A PARTRIDGE IN A PEAR TREE
As you’ll recall, the original begins like this: “On the first
day of Christmas my true love sent to me a partridge in a
pear tree.” San Francisco’s Union Square may not have
a pear tree, but it’s gone one better: the city’s annual
Christmas tree, gaily bedecked with shiny, over-sized
ornaments right in the heart of the shopping district.
The big, beautiful Christmas tree shares pride of place in
Union Square with the handsome mahogany Bill Graham
Menorah erected every year to celebrate Chanukah and
honor Jewish tradition.
CONTINUED
2
TWO TURTLE DOVES
If you’re feeling lovey dovey, a
romantic setting is in order. You’ll
find a fine one at Chapeau! in the
Richmond District, which is regularly
named among the city’s top
restaurants. From the single rose
on each table to their rich, classic
sauces, couples will find an ideal
nesting spot (and an unforgettable
meal) here.
3
THREE FRENCH HENS
Why stop at French Hens?
Head to the San Francisco
Zoo and see birds (and other
creatures) from all over the
world. African ducks, Chilean
flamingos, Eurasian owls and
plenty more species can be
found there. From Dec. 19–30,
enjoy Zoo Lights, a magical
display of twinkling holiday
cheer complete with hot apple
cider and cocoa.
San Francisco
Fire Department
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FOUR CALLING BIRDS
Carols, 19th century-style costumes and dramatic staging stand in for birdsongs in the annual
production of Charles Dickens’s “A Christmas Carol” by the American Conservatory Theater, one of
the trustworthy highlights of every holiday season. ACT performs in its beautifully ornate, century-old
structure in the central theater district, where the spirit of the holidays is sure to be on display.
FIVE GOLDEN RINGS
Rings of gold, platinum and diamonds, not to mention gem-encrusted bracelets, necklaces, watches
and other jewelry of fine design and high quality, are the stock in trade of Shreve & Company, which
has served San Franciscans and welcomed visitors since 1854.
SIX GEESE-A-LAYING
Egg dishes are so often the centerpieces of toothsome breakfasts. Chickens fill-in for geese at the
bountiful breakfast table at Palm House, a Caribbean-seasoned favorite in the Marina neighborhood.
Don’t miss their flavorful interpretation of Huevos Rancheros. You’ll find more tasty egg dishes at Uva
Enoteca in Lower Haight, where traditional brunch dishes are given a rustic Italian twist.
SEVEN SWANS-A-SWIMMING
The resident swans at the Palace of Fine Arts have been a beloved fixture for years. The neo-classical,
open-sided Palace, the lone surviving building of the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition, is flanked by a
man-made lagoon, where swans gather and glide across the water. Weddings, photo opportunities or
just plain relaxing are some of the worthy ways to spend some time here. Rest assured, the photogenic
swans are ready for their close-up.
EIGHT MAIDS-A-MILKING
And where did that fresh milk go? Why, into milk chocolate, of course. Specifically, Ghirardelli
Chocolate poured over fresh-made ice cream sundaes at the Ghirardelli Chocolate Company shop
in Ghirardelli Square. This restored red brick historical landmark, a converted chocolate factory,
has graced the northern waterfront for years, and is an ideal place to dig into a sundae, buy a milk
chocolate bar and browse through dozens of shops.
CONTINUED
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NINE LADIES DANCING
Always a delightful sign of the season, San Francisco Ballet’s annual performance of “The
Nutcracker” runs this year from Dec. 12–29. The big party, lovely-limbed ballerinas, Tchaikovsky’s music
and enchanting staging have made this a tradition. You can see the classic in full-dress regalia at the
War Memorial Opera House.
TEN LORDS-A-LEAPING
Devoted basketball fans expect the hometown Golden State Warriors to lord it over the rest of the
NBA in the 2014–15 season, as the Warriors go after their first NBA title since the 1974–75 season. After
playing in San Francisco from 1962 to 1973, the Warriors jumped across the Bay to Oakland. The team
is scheduled to move into their new waterfront digs in San Francisco in 2018. Until then, sharp-shooting
Stephan Curry, Klay Thompson and friends play at Oracle Arena in the East Bay including games
against the Los Angeles Lakers on Dec. 23 and the Los Angeles Clippers on Dec. 25.
ELEVEN PIPERS PIPING
There may be more piano than piping but the holiday spirit will take center stage when songwriter/
pianist extraordinaire Burt Bacharach joins the San Francisco Symphony on Dec. 10 and 11 at
Davies Symphony Hall. A program of Christmas classics and Bacharach’s self-penned hits is on tap.
TWELVE DRUMMERS DRUMMING
There will be drummers a-plenty from the University of California Marching Band when the Golden
Bears football team takes on Brigham Young University on Nov. 29 at California Memorial Stadium.
On Dec. 5, the conference’s top two teams will face off at the new Levi’s Stadium in Santa Clara
for the Pac-12 Championship game. And more college football action will follow on December 30
for the San Francisco Bowl, which will feature the two best teams from the PAC-12 and the Big Ten
conferences squaring off to see who will have the happier New Year.
Embarcadero Center, with
Ferry Building tower in the distance
THINGS TO
DO ON
CHRISTMAS DAY
DECEMBER IS A BEAUTIFUL TIME TO VISIT SAN FRANCISCO (just don’t
expect snow). No matter how cold California natives might find the weather,
it’s guaranteed to be warmer than December 25 in at least 38 other states —
and considerably less crowded than the slushy sidewalks of Manhattan. While
Christmas itself can be a challenging day to plan activities, several notable
spots keep their doors open and the merriment level set to high.
After delivering presents to children worldwide, Santa unwinds by driving a Zamboni. All three
Downtown San Francisco ice skating rinks (Yerba Buena Gardens, the Embarcadero Center and Union
Square) are open on Christmas Day, the latter two until late in the evening. The Union Square rink is
particularly jolly, as the commercial bustle will have ceased but the adjacent holiday tree remains lit.
The Reindeer Romp at the San Francisco Zoo runs from Nov. 17 through Jan. 1, and since antlered
ungulates don’t know what day it is, it’s open on Christmas, too. On loan from the North Pole, the four
reindeer will mesmerize youngsters. Considering the zoo is across the street from the Pacific Ocean,
it’s hard not to love a bonus trip to the beach in late December, especially with a cup of hot chocolate
from the Lemur Café.
CONTINUED
The Botanical Gardens are Golden Gate Park’s most manicured jewel, and its gates are open to
everyone on Christmas Day, free of charge. Roam through 55 acres of native plants, succulents,
magnolias, a grove of redwoods, the Ancient Plant Garden, and the rest of the 8,000 species on
display, some of which might even be in bloom (especially the Mesoamerican Cloud Forest). If you’re
lucky, the weather will be temperate enough for a picnic.
Although closed New Year’s Day — and Yom Kippur, of course — the Contemporary Jewish
Museum is open on Christmas. Better yet, it’s a Community Free Day, so all the galleries are open
(which means advance registration is highly recommended). Art-making, musical performances and a
nosh from Wise Sons Delicatessen round out a wonderful holiday afternoon inside Daniel Libeskind’s
postmodern cube. And because CJM lacks a permanent collection, every year is different.
Union Square Ice Skating
Bringing together the Jewish comedic heritage with the venerable tradition of eating Chinese food on
Christmas, Kung Pao Kosher Comedy fills that gaping hole around dinnertime when all the Gentiles
are eating a roast. Comic Lisa Geduldig began performing at the 370-seat New Asia Restaurant in
Chinatown in 1993, and the tradition has expanded into two shows (a 21-and-over, family-style dinner,
and a teenager-friendly “Cocktail Show” later in the evening). Empowering the Chosen People to choose
something better than the standard Chinese joint, it also attracts plenty of LGBT San Franciscans.
The incomparably beautiful Palace Hotel turns into a holiday wonderland each year, with a giant
gingerbread house and tea with Santa every Saturday in December. Anyone looking for something
traditional can choose from six brunch seatings on Christmas Day, in either the Grand Ballroom or the
fabulous 19th century Garden Court. An upscale buffet — think crepes and a carving station — its
Yuletide grandeur befits both the occasion and the surroundings.
A LUXURIOUS
START TO THE NEW YEAR
IF YOU YEARN FOR A TOP-SHELF KICKOFF TO THE UPCOMING YEAR,
lavish experiences abound in the City by the Bay. From plush galas
to fireworks extravaganzas, here’s your guide to welcoming
the New Year in style in San Francisco.
Rising directly across the Embarcadero from the waterfront is the Hyatt Regency San Francisco
hotel, which has been justly renowned for hosting one of the biggest and best New Year’s Eve parties
in town. The “New Year’s Eve Champagne Resolution’’ is the place to dance, imbibe and wield
noisemakers as the clock ticks down the final seconds of 2014.
At the landmark Fairmont San Francisco, perched atop Nob Hill, the party starts with appetizers in the
Pavilion Room, followed by a New Year’s Eve dinner and show by singer Antonia Bennett (daughter of
Tony Bennett) in the Venetian Room, where her father debuted his first public performance of “I Left
My Heart in San Francisco.”
If partying-hearty leaves you feeling spent, rejuvenate yourself at one of the city’s posh spas. The spa
at the Intercontinental San Francisco offers the latest in relaxing aromatherapy, massage, pedicures,
manicures and much more. For relaxation with a view, make an appointment at Spa Vitale in Hotel
Vitale where the rooftop garden views of the San Francisco Bay are the perfect complement to a
relaxing suite of services.
If you prefer a smartly crafted cocktail and a laidback vibe, you’re in luck. Generations of locals and
visitors have hoisted a drink and taken to the dance floor in the Starlight Room, a 1940s favorite atop
the Sir Francis Drake Hotel. You could also pop in for a cocktail at a new favorite, the Interval, a
unique bar, cafe and library that opened in Building A at Fort Mason Center. Appropriately for the New
Year, the Interval focuses on the concept of time, with re-creations of historic cocktails and mechanical
displays from a clock designed to last 10,000 years.
CONTINUED
You can ring in the New Year in style aboard a Hornblower cruise on San Francisco Bay. On New
Year’s Eve, cruises enjoy an unbeatable view of the holiday fireworks display, “Fireworks Over the
Bay.’’ This eye-popping extravaganza can be seen from the waterfront just south of the Ferry Building
(walking distance from Justin Herman Plaza and downtown hotels). Get there early, as this hugely
enjoyable event attracts thousands, especially on clear nights.
If you’re planning to enjoy a lavish final meal of the year, there is no shortage of choices — but be sure
to make reservations well in advance if you want a seat at one of the city’s top eateries. Perfect for
any elegant occasion is French staple La Folie located on Russian Hill. Opened by husband and wife
Roland and Jamie Passot in 1988, it’s one of a handful of restaurants in San Francisco to have earned a
star from the renowned Michelin Guide. Another award-winning meal awaits at Ame, located in the St.
Regis Hotel. Run by the culinary team of Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani (also of Napa Valley’s Terra), the
ever-changing menu blends European and Japanese influences in creative ways.
Family-friendly New Year’s holiday fun is abundant in San
Francisco. The city’s best-known upscale shopping destination,
Union Square, sets up its annual ice-skating rink from Nov.
5–Jan. 19. It’s a great way to supplement retail therapy with
recreation. The Union Square rink stays open daily until
11:30 p.m., except New Year’s Eve when it closes at 9:30 p.m.
The annual holiday ice rink in Justin Herman Plaza at
Embarcadero Center operates Nov. 5–Jan. 4. The rink opens
stays open until 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and
11:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Music is, of course, a big part of New Year’s Eve and beyond.
Funk saxophonist and vocalist Maceo Parker holds center
stage Dec. 31–Jan. 4 at the SFJAZZ Center — the first
purpose-built, stand-alone building for jazz concerts and
education in the country. Parker will let loose for a “Funky
New Year’s Eve Party.” A tuneful, meaningful event will
transpire at the Asian Art Museum on Dec. 31 — but in late
morning rather than late-night. Tradition will be honored with
a ceremonial ringing of the museum’s 16th century bronze
bell to usher in the New Year complete with chanting of the
Buddhist Heart Sutra.
Hornblower’s San Francisco Belle
Major concerts and New Year’s galas continue well into January and February. On Jan. 15, the San
Francisco Symphony will celebrate music director Michael Tilson Thomas’s 70th birthday. MTT
welcomes six guest pianists playing an all-Liszt program, as Happy New Year meets Happy Birthday.
Then, on Feb. 21, the Symphony hosts a “Chinese New Year Concert and Imperial Dinner.” A 3 p.m.
reception at Davies Symphony Hall with Asian instruments, Chinese calligraphers, dancers and more
will be followed by a post-concert holiday dinner at gorgeous San Francisco City Hall. It’s a lovely way
to welcome the Year of the Sheep – 4713 on the Chinese calendar.
SOUNDS OF THE
SEASON
THE END-OF-YEAR HOLIDAYS ARE MUSIC TO THE EARS IN
SAN FRANCISCO, figuratively and often literally. From Puccini and Rossini
to Charlie Brown, Santa’s elves and the Sugar Plum Fairy, beloved
composers and characters come to life in a season brimming
with glad tidings and imaginative flights of fancy.
San Francisco Symphony
CONTINUED
Beginning Nov. 14, Cirque du Soleil returns to San Francisco with the U.S. premiere and exclusive
Northern California engagement of “Kurios – Cabinet of Curiosities.” The magician-acrobats and
uncannily gifted performances will transport audiences into a fantasy world where everything is
possible under the Big Top at AT&T Park.
San Francisco Opera stages two works in tune with feelings of the season at the War Memorial Opera
House. First up is “Cinderella,” based on the beloved children’s tale, running Nov. 9–26, and featuring
the grand score of Rossini. Also on the Opera House stage is “La Boheme,” from Nov. 14–Dec. 7,
showcasing the gorgeous sounds of Puccini.
San Francisco
Symphony
San Francisco majors in flamboyance, and no one does
flamboyance better than the musical comedy revue Beach
Blanket Babylon. Delighting audiences since producer
Steve Silver premiered the delightfully over-the-top show in
1974, it is never more fun than during the annual “Seasonal
Extravaganza.” Christmas songs with a twist, lampoons of
pop culture and politics, extravagant costumes and huge hats
add even more color to the holidays. Runs from Nov. 19–Dec. 30.
“Elf: The Musical” follows the adventures of Santa Claus’
most unique elf: a human boy who ventures from Santa’s toy
workshop to New York City to find his biological father. Based
on the movie starring Will Farrell, this witty and tuneful touring
production is at the Curran Theatre from Dec. 12–28.
“The Nutcracker,” the magical ballet set to the music of Tchaikovsky, has been a much-loved seasonal
treat ever since the San Francisco Ballet gave the work its first complete U.S. production back in 1944.
Now in its 70th year, San Francisco Ballet’s “Nutcracker,’’ choreographed by Helgi Tomasson, will
delight all ages Dec. 12–29 on stage at the War Memorial Opera House.
“Dancers, Prancers & Vixens” is the warm-hearted seasonal celebration of the San Francisco Gay
Men’s Chorus. The gifted singers perform traditional holiday tunes, as well as new work by young
Norwegian composer Ole Gjeilo, Dec. 12 and 13 at the Nourse Theater.
San Francisco landmark Grace Cathedral hosts “Sing You a Merry Christmas” on Saturday mornings,
Dec. 13 and 20 in its magnificent Nob Hill home. Produced especially for children under 8, the show
stars live performers portraying the elves in St. Nick’s toyshop.
The sound of laughter is very much part of holiday cheer. Check out one of San Francisco’s funniest
Christmas Day traditions, “Kung Pao Kosher Comedy,” and laughter will be music to your ears.
The San Francisco Symphony gets into the holiday spirit at Davies Symphony Hall with the familyfriendly “Christmas Spectacular” featuring “A Charlie Brown Christmas.” Based on the enduringly
popular creations of Bay Area cartoonist Charles M. Schulz, Charlie Brown, Snoopy and the whole
gang star in a live-action performance with music by the San Francisco Symphony. Classic Christmas
carols and sing-alongs of Yuletide tunes round out the show, which runs from Dec. 19–24. The
Symphony also offers Handel’s “Messiah” on Dec. 14.
A TASTE OF
THE HOLIDAYS
FORGET TURKEYS AND HAMS. From November through the New Year,
San Francisco is packed with a plethora of holiday treats — from fresh
Dungeness crab to gingerbread houses. Here are a few ways you can
get a taste of the holidays in San Francisco.
During crab season (November through February), fishing boats pull fresh Pacific catches and deliver them
to Fisherman’s Wharf. In San Francisco, crab refers to the tender, slightly sweet Dungeness crab, served
steamed and traditionally paired with sourdough bread and white wine. Enjoy the bounty at favorites such
as the Franciscan Crab Restaurant, which serves crab with a garlicky, buttery sauce; or Crab House,
on PIER 39, where they’re served on a hot skillet. Family-owned and operated for more than 50 years,
Scoma’s is known for its ample Crab Louis salad. For a different approach, Chinese restaurant R&G
Lounge whips up excellent salt and pepper crab. At the Sunset district Vietnamese eatery Thanh Long,
you can savor crab roasted in garlic sauce or drunken crab prepared in sake or wine.
Combine two holiday treats — chocolate and holiday lights — on Gourmet Walks Holiday Lights and
Chocolate Tours. Spend a Friday or Saturday evening (4:30–7:30 p.m.) in December embarking on a
seven-stop, chocolate-tasting downtown walk. See the lights of Union Square, Embarcadero Center and
the Westfield San Francisco Centre while sipping hot chocolate and nibbling a peppermint truffle.
CONTINUED
Check out the “Teddy Bear Tea’’ at the
Ritz-Carlton Hotel on Nob Hill if you’re
out with the kids and need to rest tired
feet. This charming holiday show stars
an entertaining elf and his animated
helper, along with a giant teddy bear
perfect for photo opps. Shows run at
10 a.m. and 1 p.m., Nov. 29–30, Dec.
5–7, 13–14 and 19–23. A portion of the
proceeds benefits the Make-A-Wish
Foundation, benefitting children with
life-threatening medical conditions.
Crabs cooking at Pier 39
The Fairmont Hotel atop Nob Hill showcases an enormous gingerbread house made from thousands
of ginger bricks baked by the hotel, adorned with icing and candy and displayed in the Fairmont’s
splendid main lobby. The life-sized gingerbread house is just for looking; complimentary hot chocolate
and cookies for its premiere on Nov. 29. The Fairmont’s annual “Gingerbread Holiday Tea’’ continues
through Dec. 31 in the Laurel Court Restaurant & Bar, just off the lobby.
Chinese food and fun are the common denominators at “Kung Pao Kosher Comedy,’’ a popular
event held on Christmas Day in Chinatown, where diners savor a Chinese restaurant meal — the
host restaurant is wont to change from time to time — while Jewish comedians serve up jokes and
stories. The event was started in 1993 by San Francisco comedian Lisa Geduldig to give the Jewish
community something to do on Christmas. It’s expanded since then to dish out entertainment to a
diverse audience.
“Omochitsuki Mochi Pounding’’ at the Asian Art Museum on Jan. 10 lends an international flavor to
holiday celebrations. Mochi pounding is the rigorous process used to make tempting, sweet mochi rice
cakes. The Kagami Kai group helps kick off the Japanese New Year at this handsome museum in the
Civic Center with music, dance and festive costumes, along with freshly made mochi cakes.
Absinthe
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SAN FRANCISCO
NOVEMBER 8, 2014–FEBRUARY 16, 2015
Through his graffiti-inspired drawings, paintings, sculptures, and murals,
Keith Haring created an immediately recognizable iconography that speaks
to a diverse population. Making its US premiere at the de Young with more
than 130 works of art, The Political Line lends gravitas to the artist’s career by
focusing on his political activism. Exuberant, profane, witty, and provocative,
the works in this exhibition trace Haring’s creative development and his
historical significance as an advocate for social justice.
This exhibition is organized by the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Director’s Circle: Penny and
James George Coulter. Curator’s Circle: Sloan and Roger Barnett, Ray and Dagmar Dolby Family
Fund, Holly Johnson Harris and Parker Harris, and the Shimmon Family. Conservator’s Circle:
The Buena Vista Fund of Horizons Foundation. Supporter’s Circle: Nancy and Joachim Bechtle,
Juliet de Baubigny, and Richard and Peggy Greenfield. Community Partner: WEBCOR Builders
Media Sponsors
Hotel Partner
Keith Haring, Untitled (Self-Portrait), 1985. Acrylic on canvas. Private collection.
Keith Haring artwork © Keith Haring Foundation

holiday guide - San Francisco

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