No 298 / Winter - Trends Guide 2014

Transcription

EDITOR’S
LETTER
SPECIAL TRENDS GUIDE
W
ith the holidays behind us, we look forward to another year of bringing you the latest in
designer jewellery from around the world as well as profiles on artistic individuals and other
news of the industry. To kick off 2014, our special Trends 2014 edition offers images and insight
into design from the Americas to Europe to Asia. And, since jewellery and fashion are linked, and
because colour is a major design direction in both, this issue highlights Pantone’s top ten fashion
colour directions for Spring/Summer 2014.
But, while colour is important, black and white combinations continue to prove their staying
power for 2014, with examples on pages 50 and 51. We also cannot underestimate the
dazzle of diamonds, in both white and fancy colours, which are featured on pages 52
and 53. As a salute to the Year of the Horse, we evoke a variety of exotic equines on
pages 48 and 49, while pages 54 and 55 pay tribute to the glamorous golden pearls
from the South Seas.
Besides colour—a defining element in S/S fashion—sheer details, fringe, crop tops,
and exaggerated silhouettes made strong fashion statements on the runways.
Some designers even brought a little extra sparkle to their creations, with the addition of shimmering sequins, crystal clusters, costume gems, and other elegant
and elaborate embellishments.
The major directions for jewellery design for 2014 are mostly a continuation and
evolution of past trends. The most important direction remains the use of colour,
generally represented by gemstones, enamel, and even pearls. These Colour
Combos reflect a mix of similar or contrasting shades. Nature’s Bounty evokes
the natural world, with flowers and butterflies leading the trend, although snakes
and marine creatures are close behind. The last few years have seen a big
increase in openwork pieces, evoking Airy Elegance, in response to high metals prices. While the hoop remains the most popular form of earring, Exotic
Earwear is sharing its spotlight. Edgy designs have moved mainstream as
more designers engage in Skullduggery. Enticing Tassels continue their popularity in a variety of materials, while Wide Wristwear comes in all shapes and
can be worn on the wrist or upper arm. As people look more towards organic
and natural looks, the Au Naturel trend is reflected in the use of rough stones,
drusies, or other “earthy” materials as well as eco-friendly gold, silver, and gems.
New to our top trend list this year are Multi-Finger Rings, which adorn two or
more fingers or even the hand, and Opulent Opal, with its remarkable versatility
and increasing popularity among designers and consumers.
Other articles in this issue include a special section on Making a Difference,
where we feature six Awesome Individuals in our industry who are giving back
to the global community in their own wonderful ways. Our usual designer profiles and interviews are also on the menu, as is a look at jewellery featured at the
world’s trade fairs over the last few months.
The entire team at CIJ Trends & Colours wishes you a wonderful and very
prosperous year.
Cynthia
Whit NY, featuring Pantone’s
Violet Tulip and Celosia Orange.
06
Cynthia Unninayar
Editor-in-Chief
I N
T H I S
I S S U E
On the Cover
48
P51SLR ring with rose
tourmaline in 18K rose
gold by Jochen Pohl.
Cover Feature, page 10
www.jochenpohl.com
18
Trends & Colours – Misis
Top Ten Trends – Ambermix
Editor’s Letter
06 Special Trends Guide
Cover Feature
23
10 Jochen Pohl – The Power of Simplicity
Top Ten Trends – Garrard
Interview
12 Jye Luxury Collection – Jewellery to Treasure
Profiles
Trends & Colours
14 Magerit – Artistic Expression
28 Caroline C – Transcending Art
40 Muzo Emeralds – An Adventure in Green
48
50
52
54
Design Trends
17 Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2014
Fashion Colours
The Year of the Horse 2014
Black and White Beauties
Dazzling Diamonds
The Power of Gold
60
30 Top Ten Fashion Colours for 2014
36
Making a Difference
42 Awesome Individuals
Marketplace
58
64
70
74
Dazzling Designs in Venice and Vicenza
Thailand Looks to the Future
Intergem Proclaims Another Successful Show
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair – Another Record Year
Marketplace – Sanalitro
Index
80 Editorial and Advertisers Index
Book Review
82 The Ultimate Orient – The Search for the Perfect Pearl
Fashion Colours – Emilio Sosa
Editor: Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors: Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Barbara Wheat, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising Contacts: Alexandra Montandon, [email protected], T 41 22 307 7847; Nathalie Glattfelder
[email protected], T +41 22 307 7832; Italy - Alessandra Arati, [email protected], T +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena [email protected], T +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong, [email protected],
T + 852 9658 1830 / India - Bhupal Potdar, [email protected], T +91 98 2115 1035 / USA - Karen Nuckols, [email protected], T +1 610 986 7285 • Graphic Design: Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director:
Philippe Maillard • Website: www.CIJintl.com. Published by Europastar HBM SA, 25 Route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, T +41 22 307 7837; Fax: +41 22 300 3748; Email: [email protected]
Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2013 by Europa Star HBM SA • www.europastar.com
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ Trends & Colours.
08
C O V E R
F E AT U R E
JOCHEN POHL – THE POWER OF SIMPLICITY
Today, Jochen Pohl’s reputation for making perfect jewellery extends well beyond Europe. From
the meticulous selection of the most beautiful gems and the impressively powerful form of his
pieces to perfect and uncompromising in-house craftsmanship, it all has to be just right
By T.R. Flora
W
hen the goldsmith and jewellery
designer founded his company
17 years ago, he had a clear idea of
what his signature would be—totally
unrivalled artistry that would always
take its inspiration from the stone,
around which the form, or design if
you will, develops organically.
Exceptional precious stones make
his pieces stand out in any jeweller’s
display window. Today, the location of
his company in Idar-Oberstein gives
him the opportunity to see and buy
rare stones before the rest of the trade.
His favourite stone? He struggles for
an answer. Tourmaline, sapphire, garnet… He is like a parent who loves all
his children equally, even though they
are all so different. Pohl has not forsaken white diamonds, however. For a
goldsmith, white is just one colour of
many in the family of gems.
Gemstones expand his creative
freedom, which is something he holds
dear. It is the freedom to surprise,
alternating between precise and playful forms. It is the freedom to use
different materials and to explore
different stylistic directions. It is the
freedom to quite literally expand the
collection’s range of facets.
Another insight into Jochen Pohl’s
success can be summed up in two
words: respect and dignity. He has
respect for the work of his employees, for the precious stones he cuts,
and for the things that inspire him,
for example, architecture. Form and
design, however, are only part of the
holistic approach he takes. They are
complemented by the materials, the
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unique properties of the gems, and—
above all—by the craftsmanship. The
pieces need to be crafted with care,
diligence, feeling, and passion in order
to create that which Jochen Pohl values so much—jewellery with a certain
poise, elegant dignity, and the power
of simplicity.
Not only can you see the carefully
balanced composition that characterizes Jochen Pohl’s pieces, but, even
with your eyes closed, you can feel
their almost gentle equilibrium and
distinctive character.
Heritage, Philosophy, Perfection
Jochen Pohl was born and raised
in the world-famous gemstone capital of Idar-Oberstein in Germany. As
a 27-year-old goldsmith, he founded
his own company in 1996. From the
outset, the focus was on outstanding
precious stones.
Because of his contacts with many
precious stone dealers in his hometown and his own unique feel for exceptional stones, his very first jewellery collection was distinctive due to
its notable gems. After all, the careful
selection of stones, respect for their
beauty, and an appreciation of their
unique personality—as Jochen Pohl
himself calls it—form the fundamental
first step in his artistic process.
Without exception, all of Jochen
Pohl pieces are made in his in-house
workshop by experienced master
craftspeople. Anyone who has ever
witnessed the many steps involved in
a goldsmith’s work and the extraordinary degree of precision required will
know that experience and devotion
are needed in spades. And it all takes
time—time that the designer is prepared to take, out of deference for the
stone and the precious metal, which
have taken millions of years to form.
The Jewel’s Personality
Jochen Pohl designs his pieces as
subtle stages that are perfectly tailored to the individual character of
the stone in question. They are miniature sculptures with a surprisingly
modern form—atmospheric creations
composed from exceptional gemstones and the most precious metals.
In order to do justice to the remark-
able crystals, his pieces have always
been characterized by a minimalist and
almost sculptural design style.
But their true character only comes
to the forefront when you hold them in
your hand. Instead of a metallic hardness, you feel an unexpected and sensual softness and balance. The solid
metals used do not diminish the lightness of the ring on the finger. This
singular property offers an equilibrium
that makes his pieces so distinctive,
and highlights how essential their feel
and texture are to their development.
For all their visual opulence and even
radical minimalism, this equilibrium
is shared by all Jochen Pohl pieces,
and evokes the power of simplicity.
(jochenpohl.com)
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I N T E RV IE W
JYE LUXURY COLLECTION – JEWELLERY TO TREASURE
One of today’s fastest growing brands is Jye Luxury Collection. Starting as a purveyor of premium
pearls more than 30 years ago, it is now a creator of luxurious jewellery. To learn more about its
plans, CIJ Trends & Colours spoke with the creative force behind the brand, Jennifer Chang.
Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar
CIJTC: What made you shift from being a seller of fine pearls to a manufacturer of fine jewellery?
Jennifer Chang: In the early 1990s, I realized that the cultivation of pearls would likely lead to their oversupply, and I also like
the creative aspects of making beautiful and high-quality jewellery.
CIJTC: You produce many gemstone pieces. Which stones do you prefer and what percentage of the collections are colour and what
are mainly diamond lines?
JC: We specialize in fine precious stones—very high qualities of rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and some jade, two carats and
above, set in 18K gold or or platinum. Our production is divided fairly evenly between coloured gems and diamond pieces.
We also do a bridal line, which is made mostly with diamonds.
CIJTC: Who is your target clientele?
JC: Consumers with disposable income, generally over 40, although we have clients in their 20s and 30s, who see
jewellery not simply as adornment, but also as investment. Unlike property, there are no taxes or maintenance fees
with jewellery and, importantly, there is great pleasure of wearing it.
CIJTC: So, do you advise your clients to purchase high-end pieces for investment?
JC: It depends on the client. First and foremost, they must love the jewellery. It is true, however, that the
prices of fine emeralds, for example, have increased more than 50 percent in the last five years. Fine jade
has gone up more than tenfold over the last decade, and continues its vertical ascent.
CIJTC: How much of your collection is fine jewellery, pieces that you might term investment quality?
JC: It accounts for about 30 to 40 percent of total sales, with prices ranging from $3500 to $430,000 depending
on the size and quality of the gemstone.
CIJTC: What efforts have you made to increase brand awareness of Jye Luxury Collection?
JC: In previous years, we promoted the brand basically to the trade, but now we are looking at new marketing tools for both
the trade and consumers.
CIJTC: What are some of these new marketing endeavours?
JC: One example is our ad campaign over the past five months that appeared in the United Airlines flight
magazine, Hemisphere, which has 7.2 million copies in circulation every month. The response has been very
positive and has created increased brand awareness among consumers, as well as helping to promote our
retailers, since we don’t sell directly to the public. Another example is that, since 2009, our jewellery has won many
prizes, including the JCK Jewelers’ Choice awards, and this recognition helps gets our name out.
CIJTC: Are you active in social media as well?
JC: We post once or twice a week on Facebook and Pinterest, and our social media team tweets twice a day, since Twitter is a good
way to share the latest designs. We also publish an e-newsletter for our retailers to keep them up to date on new pieces.
CIJTC: What are your plans for the brand over the next few years?
JC: We will continue our brand awareness initiatives on a consumer level while working with retailers. I would also like to add that we
are now an official AGS vendor. We will continue our goal of ensuring that our retail partners are able to provide their customers with
the ideal piece of jewellery, one that they will treasure for many years to come.
12
Centuri
on Scottsdale,Booth #714
AGTAGemFai
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Tradeshowroom San Franci
sco (
415)6218880 j
yescorp@yahoo.
com www.
j
yescorp
.
com
P R OF I LE
MAGERIT – ARTISTIC EXPRESSION
With a name evoking the ancient term for the city of Madrid—meaning ‘place of many
streams’—Magerit draws inspiration from the world’s many cultures and regions in its
quest to create original and exquisite jewellery art.
By Cynthia Unninayar
E
stablished in 1994, its two
founding partners—hailing from a
long dynasty of jewellery making families in Madrid—wanted to breath new
life and fresh ideas into the sector.
And, this breath of fresh air resulted
in inimitable and immediately identifiable high quality collections that depart from the tenets of traditional jewellery, while drawing inspiration from
architecture, history, mythology, and
nature.
These creative and original designs
are divided into a range of collections,
from Atlantis, drawing inspiration
from the mysterious sirens of the sea,
to Zodiac, with its singular depiction
Atlantis
of the twelve signs. In between are a
number of original lines such as Vitral,
inspired by the distinctive genius of
Gothic architecture, Mythology, centred on the powerful figure of Medusa,
Babylon, featuring motifs from the
ancient city, and Scorpion, which
highlights the fearsome arachnid.
The brand’s latest collection is the
sophisticated Versailles, inspired by
the artistic period heralded by Louis
XIV and evoking the harmony and joie
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Babylon
de vivre associated with this golden
age. Each piece has been imbued
with a strong sense of realism and reflects the customs and lifestyle of the
Sun King and his glorious era, including the majestic palace and its ornate
engravings and fountains.
Magerit takes pride in its high quality artisanal jewellery, and limits production to 4000 pieces per year, all
made in the brand’s workshops in
Madrid. As a guarantee of authenticity and quality, each piece is engraved
with its own serial number, thus ensuring its exclusive nature as a unique,
handcrafted jewel.
These miniature works of wearable
art are sold in more than 100 fine
Scorpion
jewellers in 20 countries, from Europe
to the Ukraine, passing by Asia,
North America, and the Middle East.
To promote the brand and help their
retail partners, the brand “offers coop
advertising, trunk shows, and other
types of ‘brand-awareness events,”
explains José Carrera, Vice President
of Sales, who also manages the USA
market from Spain, visiting it three to
four times a year. He also indicated
that the brand has plans for opening a
sales subsidiary there in the future.
While quality and design are the
two main pillars of the brand, Magerit
is also committed to socially responsible practices. “Magerit uses the best
Versailles
raw materials from legitimate sources,
who share the same high level of corporate ethics as our company,” insists
José Carrera. These resources then
pass into the hands of highly skilled
craftsmen who combine their artisanal prowess with the use of advanced
technology to maintain the high standards of the brand. The result is not
simply a beautiful piece of adornment,
but also a form of artistic expression.
(mageritjoyas.com)
© 2013J
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TOP
T E N
T R E N D S
TOP TEN TRENDS IN JEWELLERY DESIGN
FOR 2014
Tresor
In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we present
the top ten design directions for jewellery in 2014, with examples from a variety of
creative designers from around the globe.
1
Marco
Bicego
AG Design
Colour Combos
Designs made
with single colours
are sharing the jewellery
spotlight with creative combinations of hues, evoked in
gemstones, enamel, metals, and
pearls, as designers mix it up
with contrasting or complementary shades to create beautiful
pieces showcasing a wide
variety of harmonious
tones.
Yoko London
Andrea
Candela
Bizzotto Gioielli
Joia
Palmiero
Kavant
Cornelia
Goldsmith
Outfit by Emerson
by Jackie FraserSwan (photo:
MBFW NYC)
Goldiaq
Creation
Louis Fiessler
17
TOP
Misaki
T E N
T R E N D S
FOR 2014
2
Graff
Mathon
Paris
Nature’s Bounty
Perennial favourites in
fine jewellery are those that
evoke the natural world. For
2014, the most popular flora and
fauna themes are flowers, butterflies, birds, and marine creatures.
Snakes, frogs, pets, insects, and
jungle animals nicely round out
Nature’s Bounty.
Paula
Crevoshay
Commelin
Georland
Magerit
TTF
Haute
Joaillerie
Oro Trend
Misis
Staurino
Gwennie Tam
Luca
Carati
Outfit by Roberto
Verino (photo:
MBFW Madrid).
18
Caroline C
Sillam Jewelry
Ambermix
TOP
T E N
T R E N D S
FOR 2014
3
Chete
Airy Elegance
Cordova
Leaderline
A creative counterpoint to the economic
times of the day, the lacy look evokes airy
elegance in all types of metals and materials, with or without gemstones and diamonds, to create a luxurious look for less.
Lafonn
Bergio
Pranda
The Fifth Season
Sifani
Charles
Krypell
Ivanka Trump
Amali
Ramon
Carla
Amorim
Garavelli
Charles
Garnier
Outfit by Taashi Shoji
(photo: MBFW NYC).
Jewelmer
Joaillerie
Facet
19
TOP
Just
Jules
T E N
T R E N D S
FOR 2014
4
Exotic Earwear
While hoops remain the most popular type of earrings,
other forms of earwear are also in the designer jewellery
spotlight. These include shoulder dusters, exotic earcuffs, and unusual designs. They come in many shapes
and sizes, often adorned with diamonds, pearls enamel,
and gemstones.
Caroline C
Leyla Abdolahi
Dada
Arrigoni
Chad
Allison
Vianna
Brasil
Autore
Bapalal
Keshavlal
Outfit by Project Runway
(photo: MBFW NYC).
20
Damiani
Nikos
Koulis
TOP
Bohemme
T E N
T R E N D S
Olivier de
FOR 2014
Saintloup
5
Hellmuth
Skullduggery
The most popular motif in “edgy” jewellery is
the skull. Interpreted literally and figuratively
in gold, silver, and other types of materials,
skulls are often embellished with diamonds
and gemstones. They are so popular that
even prestigious and mainstream brands are
adding skulls to their traditional lines.
Speake-Marin
Lydia
Courteille
Horsecka
Wendy Yue
Vida
Pippo Perez
Outfit by Mark
and Estel (photo:
MBFW NYC).
Sicis Watches
Madstone
21
TOP
T E N
T R E N D S
FOR 2014
A & Furst
Waskoll
6
Bulgari
Enticing Tassels
Denise
James
The tassel trend continues into 2014 with
an even wider variety of earrings and
pendants in a multitude of coloured gemstones, rough diamonds, seed pearls, and
metallic chains.
Rudolf
Friedman
Graff
Entice
by KGK
Garrard
Jolie B. Ray
Faberge
Royal
India
Mazza
Stephen
Webster
Katie
Decker
Bayco
Carla Amorim
Sillam Jewelry
Outfit by Supima (photo: MBFW NYC).
22
Clara
Williams
TOP
T E N
T R E N D S
FOR 2014
FR Hueb
Sutra
7
Multi-Finger Rings
Jewels for the fingers are receiving a great deal of
attention from the world’s designers today, who
are decorating not one but two or more fingers with
one piece of jewellery. A fun trend for 2014, these
multi-finger rings come in plain metal or adorned
with an assortment of gemstones and diamonds.
Dada Arrigoni
Stephen
Webster
Parulina
Garrard
Imogen
Belfield
Noudar
Pamela
Froman
Christine
Hafermalz-Wheeler
Valery Demure
Outfit by Mara Hofman
(photo: MBFW NYC).
AS 29
23
TOP
T E N
T R E N D S
FOR 2014
8
Wide Wristwear
Jye Luxury
Collection
Zorab
Wide wristwear is worn in a variety of creative
ways, on the wrist or as a signature piece on the
upper arm. Whether simple metal or adorned
with gems or enamel, cuffs offer the perfect
way to add individuality to any ensemble.
Marina B
Jewelmer
Joaillerie
GL Group
Victor
Veylan
Ramon
Daniel Espinosa
Rebecca
Outfit by Maria Barros
(photo: MBFW Madrid).
24
Garrard
H.Weiss
TOP
Vincent
Agor
T E N
T R E N D S
FOR 2014
9
Collette
Jewelry
Au Naturel
Nina
Runsdorf
Federica
Rettore
This trend encompasses two related trends: the growing
use of “eco-materials” based on concerns for the en-vironment, sustainability, and social responsibility; and a
move towards a more “natural” look reflected in the use
of geodes, lava, and iminerals as well as highly “included”
and affordable gems such as sapphires and emeralds in
their rough or raw state.
Pearce
Design
Sun Jewels
Pamela
Huizenga
Rina Limor
Kavant
Todd Reed
Toby
Pomeroy
Absolute
OroAfrica
Outfit in recycled fabric by
Lori Del Genis, Conscious
Elegance.
25
TOP
Carelle
T E N
T R E N D S
Susan
Wheeler
FOR 2014
Katherine
Jetter
10
Opulent Opal
Arunashi
Cloaked in mystery for centuries, opal is unlike
any other gem. With its vibrant fireworks of colour,
each piece is unique and lends itself to a myriad
of creative designs. Today, opal enjoys newfound
popularity with jewellers around the world.
Dreamtime
Barbara
Heinrich
Pamela
Huizenga
MVee
Suna
Bros.
Michael
Endlich
Sharart
Alessio
Boschi
Cody Opals
Victor Veylan
Outfit by Kayta Leonovich
(photo: MBFW NYC).
26
Suzy
Landa
Paula
Crevoshay
Margery
Hirschey
Yael Designs
P R OF I LE
CAROLINE C – TRANSCENDING ART
Great art elicits an invisible world—a world that transcends mere beauty.
By Diana S. Zimmerman
Caroline Chartouni
I
s it possible for a piece of jewelry
to transcend art? One glimpse at
Caroline Chartouni’s exquisite designs
and you’ll know it is.
This award-winning designer, whose
background embraces art forms as
diverse as fashion, interior design, and
painting, doesn’t just create spectacular jewelry. Her highly original pieces
create emotional focal points that are
not just loved, but cherished by those
who are fortunate enough to own
them—and desired by those who admire from afar.
“Every piece I create must pass a
‘love test,’” she explains, “or I won’t
let it go.” It’s not enough for Caroline
that the fortunate new owner merely
“likes” her meticulously crafted jewel.
He or she must feel an emotional
attachment to it.
Before she begins a design, Caroline
spends time with her clients, not only
discussing what they like, but learning
about them as individuals—their lifestyles, their tastes, their personalities,
and why they want the piece.
28
AGTA Spectrum Gem Diva Award 2013.
Is it to say “I love you,” or to enhance
their individual style, or dazzle on an
evening out? “Only then can I start to
design,” she says.
Passionate about every single detail,
Caroline personally oversees the production of each of her pieces, which
are made in New York, and only uses
18K Fair-Trade gold for the settings.
She frequently travels the world
searching for the perfect gems for
her clients. “Finding matched 10 or
15-carat stones isn’t always easy,” she
admits, having gone half way around
the globe on numerous occasions to
locate them. Among the many precious stones she seeks are the highest quality tourmalines, including
Paraiba and rubellite, tanzanites, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, and others. And, with many of her remarkable
pieces, the stones often dictate the
setting. “The design must enhance,
not upstage their unique qualities,”
she adds.
Indeed, the fascination of her designs lies in the subtlety of their beauty.
“A strong design should never scream,
‘Look at me,’” insists this uniquely individual designer. “It should beckon you
to explore every nuance. And as you
do, to feel a sense of magic and joy
that captures the moment.”
Having grown up and studied in
Paris, she credits the abundant art
and beauty of the city for influencing
her passion for design. “As a child,”
she explains, “my mother gave me the
creative freedom and support to view
the world and nature through an open
window, without limitations. I’ve been
an artist and designer all my life.”
AGTA Spectrum
Award 2014.
And this creative freedom led to two
AGTA Spectrum Awards: in 2013 for a
pair of delicately facetted rose quartz,
pink gold, and diamond earrings; and
in 2014 for an elegant pair of earrings
crafted of diamonds, emeralds, tanzanites, and Paraiba tourmalines.
Caroline began by designing clothing, and then creating the jewelry to
go with her stylish fashions. People
would inquire where she bought the
piece she was wearing—a piece that
she designed.
“They’d ask if they could buy it,” she
reminisces. “And that’s how I got into
the jewelry business. Today, each time
I create a new piece for a client, I feel
the same way I did when designing for
myself. I feel the joy of having created
something beautiful, and that it will
make someone happy.”
Making others happy is probably
an understatement for Caroline’s
loyal clientele—many of whom return
time after time for another chance to
fall in love with their next Caroline C
piece of jewelry—jewelry that indeed
transcends art. (carolinec.com)
29
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
TOP TEN FASHION COLOURS
Jye Luxury
Collection
FOR SPRING 2014
In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends guide, we again present the top ten
fashion colours for Spring 2014 as forecast by Pantone in its Fashion Color Report Spring
2014. Calling it “a season of colourful equilibrium,” the report continues that “designers take a modern twist on the traditional by pairing soft pastels with vivid brights...
Inspired by a mixture of blooming flowers, travels abroad, and strong, confident
women, designers use colour to refresh, revive and defy conventional wisdom.
“This season, consumers are looking for a state of thoughtful, emotional and
artistic equilibrium. While this need for stability is reflected in the composition of the palette, the inherent versatility of the individual colours allows
for experimentation with new looks and colour combinations,” explains
Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute®.
These fashion colours are also brought to life by a variety of jewellery designers as seen on the following pages.
Omi Privé
Leaderline
Syna
Bellarri
2(X)IST Watches
Gumuchian
Imperial topaz,
Constantin Wild
30
Pamella Roland by Pamella DeVos using
Pantone Celosia Orange, a warm and
optimistic, spontaneous hue.
Hilat
Meissen
Joaillerie
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2014.
Sylvie
Thistle & Bee
Gem Platinum
Graff
Rahaminov
Diamonds
AcP by
Quadamas
Ramon
Art 7
Nanis
Oly Lynggaard
Rodney Rayner
Rachel Roy using Pantone Freesia,
a blazing yellow tropical, floral-inspired
shade, with warmth and energy.
31
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
Mark Schneider
Kabana
Different Gems
Nouvelle
Bague
Costis
Denise
James
Le Vian
Old World Chain
Nanette Lepore using Pantone Cayenne,
a high-pitched red that adds a dash of spicy
heat to neutrals.
32
Clementina
Duarte
Jack
Kelege
FOR SPRING 2014
Ti Sento
Katie
Decker
Giovanni
Ferraris
Moraglione
A & Furst
A & Furst
Loretta Castoro
E & V Jewellery
Rebecca
Delance
Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swain, using
Pantone Hemlock, a summery, ornamental green,
that provides a decorative touch very different from
the greens of recent seasons.
Tourmaline,
Wild & Petsch
33
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
La Reina
Penny Preville
Gavello
Eichorn
Color Story
Effy
James Kaya
Denny Wong
Robert Wan
Sachin + Babi using Pantone Placid Blue; like
a picture-perfect, tranquil, and reassuring sky, it
induces a sense of peaceful calmness.
34
Elke Berr
FOR SPRING 2014
Kwiat
Sharart
Chaumet
Sethi
Couture
Jacqueline
Diani
Armadani
Casato Roma
Bavna
Sicis Watches
Tirisi
Jewelry
Swarovski Gems
Jackie Aiche
Jochen Pohl
M.Patmos by Marcia Patmos, using Pantone Dazzling
Blue, a scintillating, polar opposite to Placid Blue.
35
T R E N D S
Mimi
&
C O L O U R S
David Lin
Jades
Dada Arrigoni
Isabelle
Langlois
Erica
Courtney
Rivoir
Bellon
Garavelli
Vianna Brasil
MCL
Emilio Sosa, using Pantone Violet Tulip, a
romantic, vintage purple, evokes wistful nostalgia.
36
FOR SPRING 2014
Caroline C
Pamela
Huizenga
Mathon Paris
Thistle & Bee
Gavello
Mousson Atelier
Kunzite,
Constantine Wild
Kara Ross
Coge
Alice K
Yael Sonia
Alexandra Mor
Juicy Couture using Pantone Radiant
Orchid, a bold counterpart to Violet Tulip.
37
T R E N D S
Crivelli
&
C O L O U R S
Pamela
Huizenga
Adami & Martucci
Kendra
Scott
Eli Jewels
Magerit
Victor Mayer
H. Weiss
Inbar
Roberto Coin
Bohemme
BCBGMaxAzria, using Pantone Paloma, which serves
as a quintessential neutral, interesting enough to be worn
alone or combined with any color for sophisticated poise.
38
Ponte Vecchio
Anzie
JFA Designs
FOR SPRING 2014
Vianna Brasil
J Jewels
Bizzotto Gioielli
Jochen Pohl
Bonato
Mattiolli
Al Coro
Adeam by Hanako Maeda, using Pantone Sand, a
lightly toasted and amiable neutral, conjures images
of the beach and the carefree days of summer.
39
P R OF I LE
MUZO EMERALDS – AN ADVENTURE IN GREEN
The mystique and appreciation for emerald is said to stretch back in time at least 6,000 years.
Literary works by Aristotle and Pliny the Elder mention emerald, and it is well known that
Cleopatra had a love for this beautiful green gemstone.
By Barbara Wheat
T
he history of emeralds in South
America is well known through
the mining efforts of the Incas and
the Spanish conquistadors who
developed a vibrant emerald trade
between Colombia, Peru, and Mexico.
The finest of these gems were known
to come from the emerald mines in
Muzo, in Colombia. Muzo emeralds
were sent all over Europe, to the
Spanish Royal Court, and even as far
away as India where they were set
into the treasures of the great Moguls.
Muzo is the oldest emerald mine still in
operation with over five centuries of
uninterrupted activity.
Emerald mining continues today at
the legendary Muzo mines, which are
located in the foothills of the eastern
branch of the Andes Mountains, about
100 kilometers north-northwest of
Bogotá. This extraordinary source has
provided the world with spectacular
stones, and continues today to pro-
A 12.01-ct hexagonal-cut Muzo emerald set
with diamonds and spessartite garnets, in
gold and platinum, which sold at Sotheby’s
for $1,440,219, a record per-carat price.
40
The Muzo region and the Rio Minera River
(photo: Serge Sibert).
duce exceptional emeralds that are
prized for their size, clarity and, of
course, their ideal colour.
In November 2009, Muzo International, a branch of Texma Group, was
awarded the exclusive rights to operate the mines. When it comes to
mining emeralds, Muzo International
also takes a “green” approach in the
process of getting the gem from mine
to market. After the emeralds are
extracted, they are polished and facetted by the company’s skilled cutters,
working under company policies that
ensure strict adherence to environmental initiatives and safety protocols.
Muzo International has achieved, and
exceeded, standards established by
Colombian legislation for occupational
safety, workers rights, and employee
health. At the same time, additional
efforts have addressed issues related
to reforestation, sanitary conditions,
and public health that have benefitted
the entire area.
A miner finds a
168-carat rough
emerald (photo:
Serge Sibert)
The company is dedicated to maintaining a business culture committed
to sustainable mining development
within a responsible framework providing positive outcomes for the individual, the mining community, and the
environment.
The company differentiates its emeralds by ensuring that the gems
and the methods by which they have
been processed are of the highest quality. When necessary, only
non-permanent cedar oil is used to
embellish the stones. Furthermore,
each stone is accompanied by a certificate issued by an independent gem
laboratory confirming its origin and authenticity as a Muzo emerald. Traceability is achieved through individually
numbering each facetted emerald so
that it can be traced back to the rough
it originates from.
A magnificent 13.83-ct emerald facetted in
Muzo International’s Bogotá workshops,
from a 73.42-ct rough.
Among the most famous gems to
come from Muzo is the Fura Emerald,
a 15,000-carat (2.270 kg) rough stone
discovered at the mine 14 years ago.
With its exceptional size, it is five times
larger than the more famous Unguentarium emerald in the Vienna Imperial
Treasury.
Muzo is also where the most valuable rough emerald in the world was
found, based on its outstanding colour
and brightness—the 2,000-carat Tena.
The stone was named for a mythical
queen from the region whose tears
were said to have created the emeralds. Its estimated worth far exceeds
that of the emerald brooch once
owned by Russian Empress Catherine
the Great that sold at auction in 2010
for $1,650,500.
Emeralds from Muzo come in all
sizes and are prized for their quality,
clarity, and ideal colour, ranging from
saturated green to a slightly bluishgreen. One such stone, a magnificent
12.01-carat blue-green emerald, shattered the world record for carat price
at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva, garnering $1,440,219 for an unheard of
$119,000 per carat.
Another exceptional, transparent,
and enhancement-free Muzo emerald (9.27 carats) was sold at Christie’s for $835,682. The report from
the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, certifying its Colombian origin
A 207.315-ct rough Muzo emerald, mined
in the Tequendama shaft, level 74, February 28, 2012, giving rise to two pear-shape
emeralds of 42.66 cts and 41.46 cts.
One of Muzo International’s community
service projects is a primary school funded
by the company (photo: Serge Sibert).
Experience and expertise are needed
to find the right angles for cutting the rough
emeralds (photo: Serge Sibert).
Cut in Muzo International’s Bogotá workshops: a 25.17-ct emerald (left) from a
43.75-ct rough, mined in Muzo, February
29, 2012, and a 27.59-ct emerald from a
48.52-ct rough, mined May 21, 2013.
stated, “Natural emeralds from Colombia of this size, colour, and purity represent a great rarity and the
described gemstone is thus a very
exceptional treasure.”
With a dedication to the highest
standards, Muzo International also
takes pride in the fact that its cutting
workshops in Bogotá have obtained
ISO 9001 certification. This official
recognition establishes a solid framework for a systematic approach of all
internal processes in order to satisfy
the expectations of its customers.
Ronald Ringsrud, an emerald expert
and dealer with more than 30 years
of experience, has been appointed
Director of Operations and Sales at
Muzo International this year. He is well
regarded in the gemstone industry, and
known especially for his book, which
was released in 2009—Emeralds, A
Passionate Guide.
Muzo International emeralds are sold
exclusively through a network of representatives, which includes the most
trusted names in the gemstone and
jewellery industry. By controlling every
aspect of emerald production, from the
mines through the expert cutting and
polishing, as well as the marketing of
the finished stones, Muzo International
not only maintains absolute control
over the quality of its stones, but is
also improving the quality of life for an
entire region. (muzoemerald.com)
41
MAKING A DIFFERENCE
AWESOME INDIVIDUALS
Each day, we have the opportunity to serve or be served.
A life well-lived requires both. – Ancient Proverb
By Diana S. Zimmerman and Cynthia Unninayar
W
ith so much in the news that is
negative, this article focuses on the
positive. It features awesome individuals
who not only run successful businesses,
but find time to give back—to make a difference, and in doing so are changing the
world one endeavour at a time. They are
true examples of the best our industry has
to offer and true role models for all.
Lithos Jewelry – Rose and Lornie
Mueller
Never believe that a few caring people
can’t change the world. For, indeed,
that’s all who ever have. – Margaret Mead
About 450 million years ago, the seas
saw the emergence of one of nature’s
most remarkable predators. A creature so
amazing that, to this day, it is the object
of legends, novels, and modern-day filmmaking. Feared by many, but admired and
respected by those who truly understand
their crucial role in the survival of our
oceans, it is, of course, the shark.
While most people discount the shark’s
importance, one caring couple has made
it a life-long passion to stop their oftenbrutal slaughter. Owners of Lithos Jewelry
(a premier jewellery store with an AGScertified gem-testing laboratory and an
incredible selection and collection of black
and white South Sea pearls), Rose and
Lornie Mueller are GIA Graduate Gemologists and AGS Certified Gemologist
Appraisers. In addition to running a successful business in these economic times,
Rose and Lornie are avid scuba divers.
“There are more than 300 shark species,” Rose explains. “Sharks mature and
reproduce late in life, usually at about 10
years of age, and have limited births. It is
estimated that over 100 million sharks
are killed year by man. This number rep42
Avid scuba divers as well as jewellers, Lorne and Rose Mueller were instrumental in protecting sharks in Palau.
resents approximately seven percent of
the total shark population. These predators serve an important function in this
ecosystem. They are really quite lazy and
prefer to go after only the weak and infirm fish. Eliminating these fish keeps the
gene pool strong. It is vital that sharks are
protected.”
Rose and Lornie’s determination to help
save these magnificent creatures began
with a trip to Palau, an island nation of Micronesia. “We make this difficult journey,”
Lornie adds, “so we can scuba dive with
the sharks. We have been in the midst of
60 or more at a time. We’ve watched them
feed naturally, and move with grace and
amazing speed against raging currents.
And, we have never felt threatened.”
In April 2009, on their 15th trip, Rose
adds, “Lucy, the manager of Palau Pacific
Resort told us about a bill in the Palau
Senate that would allow shark finning. We
were devastated. This heinous act had
decimated the shark population in most
countries of the world.”
The couple knew they needed to take
action. “We returned home and began a
campaign to stop this bill,” she continues. “I sent certified letters to our Senators in Florida and to Secretary of State,
Hillary Clinton. Our government was in the
process of gifting a large sum of money
to Palau and I thought that it could be
tied to a bill to prevent shark finning. But,
I didn’t receive even one response.”
A gray reef shark pays little attention to Lornie
and Rose as they swim near it. “We have never
felt threatened when in the midst of sharks.”
“I continued to contact as many international dive operations as I could and urged
them to write to the senators in Palau,”
Rose explains. “Finally, I contacted the
Ocean Futures Society run by Jean-Michel
Cousteau, and explained the situation to
his research assistant, Holly Lohuis. JeanMichel personally wrote each senator to
plead this cause. He also submitted the
study he’d done on the effect of finning
on the tourism industry in the Maldive
Islands. His intervention, and the response
of thousands of divers around the world,
made them rescind this bill. It marked the
beginning of Palau as the world’s first
shark sanctuary!”
A black-tip shark swimming with Trevally fish,
one of the many graceful sharks Rose and
Lornie have swum with over the years.
Rose and Lornie have completed over
1,300 dives and 18 visits to Palau. “Sadly,”
she says, “there are fewer sharks, indicating that some finning still occurs, but at
least it’s being watched. For this, we are
grateful. People can make a difference.”
And Rose and Lornie Mueller certainly
have. Two awesome individuals who made
an effort to do what is right, not only for
innocent creatures, but also for humanity.
Lornie photogrphed this white-tip shark as
it swam peacefully in the waters of Palau.
Delance Swiss Watches – Gisele
Rufer
We do not need magic to transform our
world. We carry all the power we need
inside ourselves already. We have the
power to imagine better. – J.K. ROWLING
Gisèle Rufer is definitely not your ordinary watchmaker. There is, in fact, nothing
ordinary about her. Her brand, Delance
Swiss Watches, was founded in 1996, and
creates jewellery timepieces exclusively
for women. In just a few years, Delance
watches have become a talisman or, if you
will, a “taliswoman” for femininity, worn
by remarkable women all over the world.
It’s no wonder that, when it comes to
feminine causes, Gisèle is an internationally respected champion. “I am involved in
many philanthropic projects,” she explains,
“but I am especially passionate about the
ones that involve women.”
One of her favourite causes is the
Women’s Foundation of Nepal (WFN) an
NGO founded in 1988 by a group of professional Nepalese women who share a
deep sense of social responsibility and a
desire to help women in that nation.
WFN strives to alleviate their problems
through increased public awareness of
opportunities for economic and social development by promoting gender equality,
fostering social responsibility and selfreliance in developing villages and towns,
and through direct social work. It empowers women to improve their lives and
strengthen their families and their communities through hands-on programs.
“Scarf-making is one of WFN’s projects
to help women—who are often subject to
domestic violence—elevate themselves
to self-reliance,” says Gisèle. “Purchasing
these scarves and shawls is a good way
to help. At Delance, we regularly buy them
for gifts to our clients.” This “give twice”
approach not only directly helps women in
Nepal, but also creates awareness of their
situation with Delance’s clientele.
Gisèle is also involved with the Maison
Shalom in Burundi. “Maggy Barankitse
is a remarkable woman who created this
Gisèle Rufer, right, offers a Delance
watch to the winner of a drawing to
raise money for WIN. Both women
are wearing shawls from the Nepal
organization WFN.
association in 1993 to help restore dignity
to war and AIDS orphans, as well as street
children and others in poverty,“ explains
Gisèle. “We regularly donate watches for
her fundraising efforts. Together, there is
nothing we can’t achieve.”
In addition to her mentoring projects
and watch donations, Gisèle is active in the
international women’s networking group,
WIN, and travels the globe for its various
activities and forums. “I believe women
can really help other women,” she insists.
Maggy Barankitse during a presentation of her
humanitarian work at a WIN networking event.
Just as Gisèle Rufer’s stunning watches
embody all that is feminine—intelligence,
strength, beauty, knowledge, and power—
so do her actions. “I feel that women hold
a special empowering energy, the knowledge and use of which Western women
have now reclaimed in our work and our
lives. We have an obligation to help all
women around the world, regardless of
caste, race, or religion, to do the same.”
43
M A KR IKN EG T AP LD AI FCF EE R–E NDCOE H A J E W E L L E R Y A N D W A T C H E S
M
Rosy Blue – Chikashi Miyamoto
We must become the change we want to
see in the world. – Mohandas K. Gandhi
Rosy Blue is one of the world’s largest
diamantaires. The company’s success is
due as much from the exceptional quality
of its products, as it is from the laudable
ethics and integrity of the individuals who
run it.
In September, 2013, Rosy Blue sponsored one of its employees, Chikashi
Miyamoto, to take part in the Turin to
Monte Carlo cycling challenge of the
Tour of Italy (Giro d’Italia) in support of
Akshaya Patra, an international charity that
provides food for education to more than
a million children in India. “Supporting the
Akshaya Patra Foundation is very important to me,” Chikashi Miyamoto explains,
“because no child should be forced to
choose between earning money and basic
education. My primary charitable cause is
children, and my personal and professional
association with the country of India for
almost 30 years led me to the Akshaya
Patra cause.”
Miyamoto points out a few reasons he is
so passionate: “One in three malnourished
children lives in India. Twenty-six million
primary school aged children are not in
school, and 40 percent of students drop
out before reaching the 5th grade.”
“Witnessing poverty-stricken children on
the streets every time I visit the country,
after which my daughter is named, is heart
wrenching. The only way to have an enduring impact on generations to come is
to enable these children to be educated,”
he adds. “The Turin to Monte Carlo route
includes extremely demanding climbs, but
the challenge is nothing compared to what
India’s poorest children must endure day
in and day out.”
The cycling challenge covered 470 km
and 11,700 m of gruelling climbs that
encompass some of the most difficult
mountain passes featured in previous
Giro d’Italia routes. It included climbing
six passes over 2,000 m with the highest
point reached on Day 3, Colle dell’Agnello
(2,744 m), the sixth highest paved road in
the Alps. [As a point of comparison, this
year’s Tour de France had only one pass
over 2,000 m, and it was 2,001 m.]
“To date, the campaign has raised more
than £13,000,” he says. “If we include uncollected pledges, the total is currently
over £14,000. Given that the ride is a fully
supported one, and involved international
Chikashi Miyamoto pauses on Day 3 at the border between France and Italy, at an altitude of 2744
meters, during the Turin-Monte Carlo cycling challenge.
Chikashi Miyamoto raised more than £14,000
for the Akshaya Patra Foundation, which feeds
more than 1.3 million children in India. (Photo
courtesy of Akshayapatra.org.)
Two members of the convivial group of 23 riders who set off from Alpignano, Italy on the five-day
Turin to Monte Carlo cycling challenge, pause at one of the mountain passes in the fog.
44
travel, the cost of participation is quite substantial. Rosy Blue made this fundraising
campaign possible by paying a substantial
portion of the participation costs.”
The diamond industry hasn’t always garnered the best reputation, but with companies such as Rosy Blue and awesome
individuals such as Chikashi Miyamoto, the
world is a much better place.
Jewelmer – Jacques Branellec and
Manuel Cojuangco
Hope has two beautiful daughters;
Anger and Courage. Anger at the way
things are, and Courage to see that they
do not remain as they are. – Augustine of
Jacques Branellec examines the many organisms
that thrive in the protected pearl farms, which serve
as bio-regenerators for the area’s seas.
cyanide dropped into the water will kill the
other marine organisms, including coral,
over 1,000 square meters. Even when
diluted, its toxicity persists for 20 years.”
“In the equally illegal dynamite fishing,
sticks of the explosive are thrown into
the water and kill not only the target fish,
but all the other fauna and flora nearby,”
he continues. “The dead fish that float to
the surface are scooped up, but all the
others fall to the bottom.” In addition to
taking decades for the coral to recover
from these violent explosions, the sound
deafens birds, marine mammals, fish, and
other animals, causing disorientation,
disease, and death.
A third challenge is the unlawful technique of “slash and burn” used in cultivating rice. The desertification of the land and
resulting silt that enters the ocean upsets
the natural balance in the coastal ecosystem, leading to its ultimate destruction.
Facing these issues on a daily basis,
Jacques and Manuel realized that simply
prohibiting these practices will not work
because for some (but not all) of these
wrongdoers, it is a question of survival.
The only durable answer to these problems is to change the prevailing mentality
and behavior by offering other options. In
2006, they created “Save Palawan Seas
Foundation (SPSF)” to provide workable
alternatives that are both economically
rewarding and environmentally friendly.
The SPSF includes conservation and
management strategies to facilitate the
long-term sustainable use of aquatic resources of the province of Palawan. It also
operates a free medical clinic for residents
of the neighbouring communities.
The most destructive challenge is the
illegal practice of sodium cyanide fishing.
“In order to capture live fish for the restaurant trade in parts of Asia,” Jacques says,
“fishermen drop the deadly poison into the
ocean. It stuns the fish, which are scooped
up in nets, only to end up in an aquarium
in an Asian restaurant to be selected as
someone’s dinner. Just one teaspoon of
The SPSF’s model farm is used to teach the local
community about the benefits of organic farming.
Hippo (354-430)
The focus of Manila-based Jewelmer
has been on creating pearl farms to produce the highest quality golden pearls in
the world. Along with their success, however, co-founders Jacques Branellec and
Manuel Cojuangco are looking to the
next level, where environmental protection, sustainability, and social responsibility are vitally important—where Jewelmer
can contribute to making an even bigger
difference.
“While pollution, climate change, rising
sea levels, and shore erosion are a threat
to the global community,” says Jacques
Branellec, “Jewelmer is also confronted
with challenges on a micro level, problems
with a direct bearing on the health of our
oysters and hence our pearls.”
A free medical clinic is just one of Jewelmer’s
projects to help the local population.
Among SPSF’s activities are classes for
the local population on organic farming,
cultivation of seaweed (large buyers have
shown great interest), fish farming in sea
pens, sea cucumber farming, handicrafts,
and raising bees. “The results have been
nothing short of spectacular!” Jacques
confides. “We have people lining up for
this type of education,” adds Manuel, “and
some have even started small businesses
and sell their products to tourist resorts or
other communities in the area.”
Among the SPSF’s environmentally-oriented
activities are classes on raising honey bees.
Jewelmer’s activities have garnered
unexpected but welcome attention from
outside, as Jacques explains: “A man
from Europe who visited the pearl farms
and also the SPSF was so impressed with
the bee-farming project that he returned
home and started a foundation to complement this work. He subsequently created
400 hives in the Philippines, with the proceeds of each hive going to finance one
child’s schooling for one year. He came
as a tourist and returned as a benefactor.
Even if we think our own impact is limited,
it has, in reality, no limits.”
45
MAKING A DIFFERENCE
Simons Jewelers – Simon Katz
For it is in giving that we receive. – St.
Francis of Assisi
For over 35 years, Simons Jewelers
has been one of St. Louis’ finest jewellers,
featuring designer jewellery and watches
that range from classic to unique, and from
serious to fun.
And, the company also makes an awesome statement when it comes to caring
and compassion. “The Humane Society
of Missouri is one of the oldest and most
respected animal welfare organizations
in the United States,” says owner Simon
Katz. “It is an open admission shelter receiving thousands of animals yearly. I’m
amazed that an organization that receives
no tax support or United Way funding can
accomplish all they do for the animals.”
A dog owner himself, with two rescue
dogs, Simon goes on to say: “I’m very proud
to be among HSMO’s dedicated supporters and gratified that I can help them to
achieve their mission of providing second
chances for abused, neglected, and abandoned animals.”
Two rescue dogs that were adopted by animal
lovers, Simon Katz and wife Francine, owners
of Simons Jewelers in St. Louis.
Simon Katz doesn’t just support this
important cause; he works diligently to
make sure others are aware of its efforts.
One example is an annual fundraising
event called “A PAWS for Celebration,”
held every October in his store.
46
Simon Katz and wife Francine at the PAWS for Celebration event held in their store to benefit the
Humane Society of Missouri. Over the years, they have raised more than $800,000 for the HSMO.
Every guest receives a $50 gift certificate good for any jewellery purchase
through the end of the year, plus a chance
to win a $5,000, $2,500 or $1,000 shopping spree. “This year’s fundraiser included
a special showing of incredible jewellery from Roberto Coin, Mazza Jewelry,
Roberto Demeglio, and Joshua J,” he says.
“We make sure there is something for
every taste and budget.”
“Over the years our attendance has
certainly grown,” adds Simon. “In the very
beginning, we had 150 or so guests. Now,
our attendance is anywhere from 325 to
450 people. And this year, we had quite
a bit of competition, all in St. Louis. The
St. Louis Cardinals were playing Game 5
against the Pittsburgh Pirates, and the St.
Louis Blues hockey team was playing the
Chicago Blackhawks. We expected a drop
in attendance, but more than 400 people
came and the event was quite successful.
Over the past 20 years, we have raised
more than $800,000 for the HSMO.”
Thanks in part to Simons Jewelers generous support, the HSMO is opening a
new facility, in another part of St. Louis,
called the New Best Buddy Pet Center, with a section called the “Katz Cozy
Canine Wing.”
Kathy Warnick, president of the HSMO presents
Simon Katz with a certificate of recognition and
designation of the new “Katz Cozy Canine Wing.”
For most companies, helping just one
charity would be enough. But Simons
Jewelers is not like most companies. “We
are involved in many local charitable organizations. Being in the jewellery business
and having relationships within your community makes you aware of the needs of
those less fortunate. I think a strong component of our success is that we believe in
giving back to our community.”
Simon Jewelers is more than just a
highly successful business. It is a business
that is making a difference for so many—
some of which have been abandoned and
abused, and others who sometimes simply
need a helping hand.
YVEL Jewelry – Isaac and Orna Levy
We make a living by what we get. We
make a life by what we give. – WINSTON
receive a monthly stipend while attending, and employment opportunities after
completion of the one-year course.
CHURCHILL
Isaac and Orna Levy are co-founders of
the prestigious Yvel jewellery brand whose
award-winning pearl and gemstone collections are sold in over 650 exclusive retail stores worldwide. Yvel’s innovative and
contemporary jewels are manufactured at
the Yvel Design Center, a 50,000-square
foot complex in Motza, near Jerusalem.
of its kind in Israel, the Levys also receive
some additional financial support for the
program from friends around the world
and a few humanitarian organizations.
Students design and manufacture their
own jewellery, branded under the name
Megemeria, in a variety of motifs, with all
profits generated by sales returning to the
company to fund the continuation of the
school. The collection features pendants,
earrings, bracelets and rings made of 24K
gold-plated brass, with prices ranging from
US$40 to US$400.
Megemeria means “Genesis” in the Ethiopian
native language of Amharic.
Orna and Isaac Levy, founders of Yvel.
Yet, Isaac and Orna’s mission in life goes
far beyond their remarkable company,
and begins with a dream of assisting new
Ethiopian immigrants to integrate professionally and socially into Israeli society.
In 2012, the couple realized their dream
when they opened the Megemeria School
of Jewelry and Art.
Megemeria means “Genesis” in the native Ethiopian language of Amharic, an apt
title since the school provides Ethiopian
immigrants with a fresh new beginning by
offering each student practical training in
the art of jewellery manufacturing, as well
as job placement assistance for graduates
upon completion of the program.
Located in the Yvel Design Center, this
first-of-its-kind educational facility offers
a unique opportunity to 21 Ethiopian students each year who receive professional
hands-on training in the jewellery-related
arts of goldsmithing, stonesetting, design,
and manufacturing, as well as enrichment
classes in Hebrew and math. Students
Remembering his personal difficulties
relating to his immigration experience to
Israel as a young boy from Argentina, Isaac
says that he had “a strong desire to create
a better way of embracing immigrants into
Israeli life and culture.”
He decided to concentrate his efforts on
the vulnerable Ethiopian community, who
often face multiple challenges when integrating into Israeli society. A remark from
one of the students shows how the efforts
have paid off: Isaac and Orna Levy try and
tell us that we are equal in society, only
now I can feel it. We will have a profession
and can work and progress like everyone
else. Our children will see this and be very
happy for us.”
Investing their own money into the
project, the first corporate social project
Ethiopian students receive hands-on training in
jewellery-related arts at the Megemeria School as
well as help with job placement after graduation.
Megemeria jewellery is crafted by the students
in 24K gold-plated brass in a variety of motifs.
The Megemeria collection, inspired by
the immigrants’ personal and collective
journey to Israel, is sold through Yvel distribution channels and at the Yvel Design
Center. Visitors can observe the students
in action as they learn the arts and crafts
of jewelry making and design.
Isaac and Orna have not only realized
their dreams, but are dream-makers for
hundreds of individuals and their families.
In a world where so many are left with only
the nightmares of trying to survive, this
couple is the epitome of Megemeria, the
Genesis of a new life.
None of us can ever really know the
type of impact we can have on another’s
life until we try. But our actions—large or
small—will have an impact, just as these
awesome individuals have shown. And,
it doesn’t take much. Even a smile can
change a person’s day.
Perhaps Stella McCarthy summed it
up best: “Everyone can do simple things
to make a difference. And every little bit
does count.“
47
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
2
1
3
5
4
6
7
1. Swarovski marcasite and epoxy pendant by Monplaisir (Thailand).
2. Enamel, diamond, and gold pendant by Masriera (Spain). 3. Jade,
diamond, and gold pendant by David Lin Jades (USA). 4. Silver and
enamel brooch by Misis (Italy). 5. Silver and gold pendant by Jane A.
Gordon (USA). 6. Silver charm by Rosato (Italy). 7. Porcelain statue
by Lladro (Spain).
48
8
9
10
15
16
17
11
12
13
14
8. Silver pendant by Kabana (USA). 9. Diamond, emerald, and gold pendant by MVee
(Hong Kong). 10. Diamond and gold pendant by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy). 11. Gold, and
diamond ring by Roberto Coin (Italy). 12. Multi-gemstone and gold brooch by Wendy Yue
(Hong Kong). 13. Gold and diamond brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 14. Fully articulated
gold “Colt” pendant with diamond hooves by Bielka (USA).
49
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
3
2
1
BLACK & WHITE
BEAUTIES
One is the presence of all colour while the other
is the absence of all colour. When combined
together, however, black and white create beautiful
jewellery crafted in gold, platinum, or silver, set
with diamonds, sapphires, quartz,
pearls, onyz, or jade.
5
6
7
10
8
9
11
50
1. Silver and diamond ring by Eli Jewels (USA). 2. Gold and diamond earrings by Luca Carati
(Italy). 3. Blackend gold and diamond earrings by Stephen Webster (Britain). 4. Gold and
diamond pendant by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 5. Gold and diamond earrings by Coomi
(USA). 6. Gold and diamond ring by Facet (Italy). 7. Silver and diamond earrings by Revabella
(USA). 8. Enamel and silver bracelet by Metalsmiths Sterling (Canada). 9. Silver and enamel
charm by Rosato (Italy). 10. Tourmalinated quartz by Tavares Gems (Brazil). 11. Outfit by
Zimmermann (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
12
13
14
15
17
16
18
20
19
22
12. Gold and diamond earrings by Union Suiza (Spain). 13. Gold, diamond,
and pearl earrings by Reena Ahluwalia (Canada). 14. Gold, diamond, and pearl
pendant by MVee (Hong Kong). 15. Gold and diamond ring by Andrew Meyer
(USA). 16. Platinum and diamond ring by Jörg Heinz (Germany). 17. Gold and
diamond ring by Bibigi (Italy). 18. Gold, diamond, and onyx ring by Gordon
Aatlo Designs (USA). 19. Gold and diamond ring by Cris Porto (Brazil). 20. Gold
and diamond ring by Sethi Couture (USA). 21. Gold and diamond ring by AS
29 (Belgium). 22. Pearl and diamond pendant by Antonini (Italy). 23. Outfit by
Roberto Verino (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).
21
23
51
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
4
2
3
1
5
6
7
DAZZLING
DIAMONDS
From rose cuts to brilliants and
everything in between, diamonds come
in all shapes and sizes, and, of course,
colours. Fancy diamonds not only bring
record prices at auction but are dazzling
in a wide variety of colourful creations.
8
12
10
11
13
52
9
1. Gold and diamond ring by Green G (Hong Kong). 2. Gold and diamond pendant by Artistry Limited
(USA). 3. Yellow and white diamond and gold pendant by Sylvie (USA). 4. Blue and white diamond and
gold pendant by Erica Courtney (USA). 5. Gold and diamond pendant by Samra (Dubai). 6. Gold and
diamond earrings by Louis Vuitton (France). 7. Gold and diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India).
8. Pink and white diamond and platinum ring by Jack Kelege (USA). 9. Pink and white diamond and gold
ring by Claude Thibaudeau (Canada). 10. Gold and diamond ring by AcP/Quadamas (USA). 11. Gold and
diamond ring by Alfieri & St. John (Italy). 12. Gold and diamond earrings by Gumuchian (USA).
13. Outfit by Bibhu Mohapatra (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
15
16
14
17
18
19
20
21
23
22
24
25
14. Gold and diamond pendant by Jye Luxury Collection (USA). 15. Gold and diamond necklace by
Bulgari (Italy). 16. Gold, diamond, sapphire, and ruby pendant by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 17. Contra
Mundum Diamond Glove by Shaun Leane for Daphe Guiness (Britain). 18. Gold and diamond pendant
by A.Link (USA). 19. Gold and diamond pendant by Michael M (USA). 20. Gold and rose-cut diamond
ring by John Apel (USA). 21. Gold and diamond ring by Azuelos Jewelry (Morocco). 22. Yellow and
white diamond and gold ring by Eclat Jewels (USA). 23. Pink and white diamond and gold ring by
Christian Tse (USA). 24. Gold and diamond cuff by Messika (France). 25. Gold, diamond and emerald
ring by Pasquale Bruni. (Italy). 26. Gold and diamond pendant by Mathon Paris (France). 27. Outfit by
Tadashi Shoji (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
26
27
53
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
THE POWER
OF GOLD
Renowned brand Jewelmer Joaillerie
evokes the power of gold in its new
S/S 2014 collections entitled Charleston,
Guimard, C’est la Vie, and Madame de
Pompadour, as well as in elegant additions
to its Tropics, Rosone, Dolce Vita, Petite
Fleur, and Via Rosa lines, all combining
the opulence of 18K gold, diamonds, and
precious gemstones with the glow of the
rare and exquisite golden Philippine
South Sea pearl.
(Jewelmer.com)
Outfit by Son Jung
Wan, S/S 2014
(photo: MBFW NYC).
54
Outfit by Dolce &
Gabbana, S/S 2014
(photo: AS).
55
Brilliance
Mee ts
march 27 –
april 3, 2014
MARKETPLACE
DAZZLING DESIGNS IN VENICE AND VICENZA
A World Heritage Site renowned for its beauty, architecture, and art, Venice was the perfect setting to host the
prestigious by-invitation-only event, About J, last September. Following this elite exhibition was VicenzaOro Fall,
the second in the city’s trilogy of trade fairs, which took place in an atmosphere of cautious optimism.
V
enice’s luxurious Hilton Molino
Stucky—a neo-gothic palace built
at the end of the 19th century and located on the western side of Giudecca Island—served as the venue for this
year’s About J, organized by the Fiera
di Vicenza. The exclusive by-invitationonly event attracted some 200 highend retailers from 39 countries who
came to see the products of 34 luxury
Italian and international brands.
Reactions to About J
Among the exhibitors at About J
was Marco Valente, president of the
eponymous Italian brand whose cleverly designed and adjustable rings
generated a lot of interest from buyers: “This is our first time at About J
and we are having an excellent show.”
Similar sentiments were echoed by
another Italian designer, Federico
Mariani whose trendy tassel jewellery did not go unnoticed: “We joined
About J for the first time, and the
show has been very good.”
Strong interest was also reported by
Ricardo Vianna, president of Vianna
Yellow and white diamond
brooch by Picchiotti.
58
Brasil, one of two Brazilian brands that
also attended the event last year: “We
are delighted with the show, its setting,
and the quality of the buyers.” The other
Brazilian brand, Brumani, also enjoyed
a good show. Its creative director,
Eduardo Bruner, stated, “About J is an
exciting show with a nice environment.
Attendees were serious in doing business and finding new designers. We
met old clients and opened some new
accounts.”
Platinum and rose gold earrings set
with diamonds and conch shells by
British brand SHO (About J).
A limited-edition elephant ring in white and
black diamonds and jade by Roberto Coin.
First-time exhibitor Sarah Ho, of
London-based SHO Jewellery also
expressed her satisfaction with the
show and the quality of buyers, while
About J veteran, British designer
Rodney Rayner, added, “The show has
a great environment, qualified buyers,
and has always been good for us.”
Anna Gaia of Italian brand Utopia
concurred with this general sentiment., adding, “About J is a great
vehicle for making contacts. It is not a
common type of show in Europe, and
could be expanded to other locations.”
Utopia’s U.S. representative, Manuel
Martin, agreed, “About J is a very valuable show because it gives brands
and buyers the opportunity of meeting
in an informal social setting.”
From a buyer’s point of view, the
show was also worthwhile as Jannie
Iwema of Bonebakker Jeweliers in
Amsterdam stated: “This is my second
year at About J and again, it was a very
good show. I found many interesting
designers.”
An exotic long-finger ring in
gold by Stephen Webster
(About J).
Annamaria Cammilli celebrated the
brand’s 30th anniversary with a collection
of elegant flower rings and pendants in
18K rose gold and diamonds.
Diamond and gold
charm by Rosato.
Gold and ebony necklace
by Oromalia.
Trendy tassel pendant made
of brown and white diamonds
by Mariani (About J).
Earrings in pink gold, brown sapphires, white and
brown diamonds, and rose-cut red diamonds
by Italian brand Brusi (About J).
Second-time attendee to the event,
Camilo Lievano, of Bogota-based
Lievano, echoed these comments:
“I found About J to be a really good
show this year, as it was last year. I
always find something new.”
Lisa Glynn of Pennsylvania-base
Diane Glynn Distinctive Jewelry,
commented: “About J has been a
really good—and enjoyable—show,
with lots of new creations.” First time
attendee, Adriana Cauduro of Brazilbased Adriana Cauduro Joalheira,
explained: “This is my first About J
and I can honestly say that the whole
environment is excellent. I appreciate
the show a lot.” Another first-timer
to the event was Irina Metikhova, of
Kazakhstan-based Arezzo Jewellery
Boutique: “I found About J to be so
very interesting with so many good
designers. The only problem was that
the time was too short.”
On to VicenzaOro Fall
Held immediately after About J,
VicenzaOro’s 1200 exhibitors from
30 countries welcomed more than
18,000 buyers, including 7,160 overseas visitors from 111 nations, notably
Rings that can imperceptibly change size, crafted in gold,
diamonds, and rubies by Marco Valente (About J).
the Euro Zone, Central and Eastern
Europe, the UAE, Saudi Arabia, North
America, and Asia, especially China.
According to fair officials, the “return” of many Italian retailers was an
encouraging sign, perhaps signalling “the much-desired end of the
most critical phase of the recession.” They went on to add, “For the
first time, after two years of negative
signals, the second quarter of 2013
showed a positive result for Italian
jewellery exports (ISTAT data) that
have grown in terms of both value
(+6%) and volume (+2.6%) over the
same period last year. Particularly significant is the growth in exports to the
Hammered gold and diamond bracelet
by Vendorafa.
United States (+12% in value) and to
the UAE (+32% in value).”
The Fiera di Vicenza, organizer of
About J and the trilogy of VicenzaOro
fairs, continues its efforts to help the
Italian jewellery industry by strengthening its network of international
partnerships. Among them are: an
agreement with the Hong Kong
Trade Development Council in view
of increasing the Italian presence at
the March 2014 edition of the Hong
Kong International Jewellery Show;
a new partnership with the Armenian
Jewellery Association, which owns the
leading international jewellery exhibition in Armenia; and the participation
of VicenzaOro and T-Gold International in Dubai International Jewellery
Week, seen as particularly important
since the UAE is the second largest
export market for Italian jewellery.
Regarding reactions to the Fiera di
Vicenza’s activities in promoting the
sector, its president, Paolo Mantovani
commented, “In this period, I have
noted the satisfaction of a large part
of the exhibitors regarding the good
spirit in the business. The buyers who
came to VicenzaOro were motivated
59
MARKETPLACE
Titanium rings by Zancan.
Diamond and platinum
ring by I Gregori.
Double hoop earrings in diamonds
and gold by Zydo.
and pragmatic, and I am convinced
that the range they found lived up
to their expectations. Now we must
concentrate on the next dates, refining our organization and our services
to make them increasingly orientated
towards customer satisfaction.” The
reaction of a retailer from Canada,
Anita Malbranck of the Diamond Gallery, regarding the range of products,
echoed Montovani’s comments: “This
is my first time at VicenzaOro and I
find the selection of jewellery to be
almost overwhelming. It is very fashion-forward and unique, with pieces
that will appeal to my clients.” Peter
Stravrianidis of New Jersey-based
Venus Jewelers, was also a first-time
visitor and agreed that “VicenzaOro is
an excellent show for his needs.”
Among the other activities sponsored
by the Fiera di Vicenza was a preview
of the TrendBook 2015+ by Paola
DeLuca, creative director of TrendVision, the fair’s independent research
centre. She presented an overall view
of the global jewellery market, indicating that the U.S. market has matured
but remains strong, while Europe is
weakening, and then added that Asian
markets continue to drive global sales.
DeLuca went on to discuss five types
of consumers and products that reflect
these types based on her research.
In terms of Italian design, a wide
range was present at VicenzaOro and
about J, as it is every year.
60
Ring in amethyst, citrine, gold, and
diamonds by Sanalitro.
“Claire de Lune”
earrings in Tahitian
pearls, white gold,
and diamonds by
Utopia.
Changes for 2014
Three years ago, the Fiera di
Vicenza embarked upon an ambitious €32 million program to update the fair and its venue. “By
2014, our structure will be completely updated,” said Montavani.
“The project is in an advanced
stage of execution and includes
a new pavilion, space and equipment redevelopment of the Congress Centre, a comprehensive
reassessment of layout, logistics
support, and services (specifically,
food services), a reorganization of
access routes, and a new 600-space
parking lot.”
One of the more prominent changes will be the creation of “The Boutique Show.” Mantonvani explained
that this special section is “part of an
effort to reorganize the flow of merchandise and visitors. The Boutique
will incorporate Concept Store proposals to offer exhibiting companies
integrated exhibition options, as well
as set-up, assembly, disassembly, and
storage solutions.
Jewellery crafted from such gems as the
bright blue hemimorphite combined with
opal, blue topaz, peridot, and diamonds,
by U.S.A. designer Kara Ross (About J).
Other events planned for 2014 are
a “Speed Greet” area, dedicated to
fostering networking among selected
exhibitors and worldwide retailers and
buyers, and the inauguration of the
“Museo del Gioiello” in the centre of
Vicenza that will host cultural events,
workshops, and other activities.
VicenzaOro Winter 2014 will be held
January 18-23; Spring 2014 from
May 10 to 13; and Fall 2014 from
September 6 to 10.
(Vicenzaoro.org, aboutjevent.it)
SEPTEMBER
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
3,600 exhibitors from 48 countries & regions
Over 52,000 buyers from 154 countries & regions
Up to 135,000 square metres of exhibition space
Over
Theme Pavilion Highlights:
The FINE DESIGN PAVILION hosts around 70 internationally
renowned jewellery companies, bringing to the city
exquisite jewellery set with luxurious and rare diamonds,
gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejewelled
watches, invaluable antique and vintage jewellery and
exclusive one-offs from around the world.
The FINE GEM PAVILION is dedicated to the world’s
finest loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Over 50
esteemed exhibitors from around the world will display a
variety of loose gems of the highest quality.
The HONG KONG PREMIER PAVILION is the perfect
setting to show what Hong Kong has to offer to the world’s
luxury markets as a jewellery powerhouse. It features
over 40 of the city’s brightest brands in a prestigious and
elegant setting befitting their exquisite masterpieces.
The INTERNATIONAL PREMIER PAVILION features over 60
prestigious international jewellery companies presenting
prominent jewellery brands and their latest collections.
Theme pavilions housed in two world-class venues:
AsiaWorld-Expo
• Gemstones
• Diamonds
• Pearls
• Packaging, Tools &
Equipment
• Fine Gem Pavilion
AsiaWorld-Expo
$LUSRUW([SUHVV
Packaging,
Tools &
Equipment
Diamonds
Halls 9 &11
Hall 11
Hall 9
Diamonds
Halls 5 & 7
Pearls
Hall 1
Gemstones
Hong Kong Convention
& Exhibition Centre
• Hong Kong Pavilion
• Hong Kong Premier Pavilion
• International Premier Pavilion
• Fine Design Pavilion
• Silver Jewellery
• Jadeite Gallery
• Designer Avenue
• Jewellery Accessories
• Pearl Jewellery & Finished
Jewellery
• Asian Fine Jewellery
• International Fine Jewellery
• Antique & Vintage Jewellery
Hall 2
Fine Gem
Pavilion
Halls 3, 6, 8 & 10
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre
Jewellery Accessories
Hall 5D
Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery
& Finished Jewellery Hall 5E
Silver Jewellery
Grand Foyer
Silver Jewellery Mezzanine 4
International Premier
Hong Kong Pavilion
Halls 3C, 3D & 3E
Pavilion Halls 3B & 3C
Designer Avenue Mezzanine 2
Grand Hall
Jadeite Gallery
Asian Fine Jewellery
Halls 5B & 5C
Fine Design
Pavilion
Hong Kong Pavilion
Hall 1 Concourse
Halls 1A, 1B & 1C
Expo Drive Entrance
Halls 5F & 5G
International Fine Jewellery
Halls 3F & 3G
Antique & Vintage
Jewellery,
Hong Kong Premier Pavilion
Halls 1D & 1E
Harbour Road
Entrance
Convention Hall
The
WORLD’S
NUMBER
ONE
Fine Jewellery Event
SEPTEMBER
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
15 - 19 September 2014
AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong
Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging
17 - 21 September 2014
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre
Fine Finished Jewellery
UBM Asia Ltd
Tel: (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677
Fax: (852) 3749 7319
Email: [email protected]
www.JewelleryNetAsia.com
M A R K E T P L A C E
THAILAND LOOKS TO THE FUTURE
Looking to the future was the unofficial theme of the 52nd Annual Bangkok Gem & Jewelry Fair
held in September at the Impact Exhibition and Convention Center.
By Karen Nuckols
O
rganized by the Thai Gem and
Jewelry Traders Association
(TGJTA) in cooperation with the
Department of International Trade
Promotion of the Thai Ministry of Commerce, the fair is one of the top five
largest gem and jewellery shows in
the world. Some 40,000 visitors and
buyers from 125 countries visited the
show to see the products displayed by
the event’s 1,800 exhibitors.
The majority of exhibitors were from
Thailand, and many featured silver
products. Not surprising since Thailand is the world’s largest producer of
silver jewellery. The fair again showcased a special section of silver jewellery, with designs ranging from simple
sterling silver earrings to elaborate
gemstone-studded necklaces.
Also featured were one-offs in sterling, such as the pieces sold at the
stand of Thai brand, Goldlip. Spokesperson Petra Wolbeek noted she had
an excellent show, mostly because all of
Goldlip’s jewellery is one-of-a-kind.
“People crowded in the first day to get
the best choices, “ she said.
The Design Pavilion, located in the
show lobby, was also a popular destination for buyers. The theme this year
was “Technology Affecting Nature.”
Samai Tocharoen, Director of Public Relations for TGJTA, elaborated:
“People of today perceive and consume nature that co-exists with science and technology, creating the next
evolution of nature.” The pavilion was
co-sponsored by the TGJTA and the
Department of Industrial Promotion
of the Thai Ministry of Industry.
In addition to silver, the second largest category of exhibitor was dedicated to gemstones, which were abun64
The ribbon-cutting ceremony opened the 52nd Annual Bangkok Gem & Jewelry Fair.
dant. Buyers could find everything
from melee to large stones of every
description.
Attractive Buyer Incentives
The fair’s organizers have established a number of on-going initiatives
to increase the participation of international vendors and buyers at future
events while, at the same time, making it easier for the jewellery trade in
Thailand to do business abroad.
First and foremost of these initiatives is the waiving of the 20 percent
import duty on items brought into
Thailand for display and sale at the fair.
The Bangkok fair is one of only two
The crowds wait to enter the Bangkok Gem &
Jewelry fair on the first day.
Silver pendant in blue agate druzy, blue topaz,
and blue and pink sapphires, with black rhodium
and 22K gold plating by Goldlip.
duty-free shows in Asia. Introduced
in August, there is a 15-day grace
period before and after the start of
the fair for products to be brought
into the country. These include precious stones, pearls, and metals, coins,
and imitation jewellery.
Somchai Pornchindarak, President
of the TGJTA, explained, “For the first
time ever, our international exhibitors
are able to offer for sale their imported gems and jewellery products
at duty-free prices.” Foreign exhibitors
Connecting Global Competence
February 14 – 17, 2014
MESSE MÜNCHEN INTERNATIONAL
INHORGENTA.COM
Inhorgenta-Blog.com
Gemstone and silver earrings by Beauty Gems.
Diamond jewellery by Mahallati.
can now also sell their goods at lower
prices and Thai vendors can keep
prices low thus providing buyers from
around the world more purchasing
power at the fair.
Suttipong Damrongsakul, CEO of
the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair,
further expanded upon the importance
of waiving the import duty, “We want
to make the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair more international by having
more exhibitors from other countries.
Of course, this will attract more buyers
to our show because they will have a
wider choice of goods.“
Exhibitors agreed that the duty-free
policy would help increase the number of both buyers and vendors at the
fair. Mohammed Mahallati, COO of
Mahallati Co., Ltd., a diamond jewellery manufacturer based in Bangkok,
stated, “The 20 percent duty free policy is a good start to help grow the
show. It gives buyers more incentive to
come to Thailand and not just attend
the Hong Kong show. Any time you do
something to help the customer, more
will come.”
The second important initiative
aimed at strengthening Thailand’s position as a gem and jewellery hub was
the Zero VAT Pavilion where buyers
were exempt from paying the seven
percent value-added tax on rough
to selecting those to visit. At the same
time, vendors get the chance to understand buyers’ needs and prepare
offers in advance.
A fourth incentive to attract overseas buyers was the offer of a free
three-day, two-night hotel accommodation for first-time visitors, which was
appreciated by those who took advantage of it. “This was a particularly good
incentive,” says Avi Layani of Topaz
B.K.K. Co. LTD. “We need new buyers
since we have a lot of merchandise to
offer here.”
66
A variety of earring styles in 925 sterling silver,
from classic to whimsical, by Topaz B.K.K. Co.
gems and raw materials imported into
the country for manufacturing.
The third factor to enhance the popularity of the fair was the continuation
of the Business Matching Service.
This service helps foreign buyers locate and communicate with exhibitors
before the fair. Once at the fair, buyers have the opportunity to preview
suppliers’ profiles and products prior
Multi-gem necklace by
Blue River.
Importance of ASEAN+6
The second annual ASEAN+6 gem
and jewellery presidents’ summit was
held during the fair. It was moderated
by Suttipong Damrongsakul who announced a sub-committee comprised
of representatives from Malaysia,
Myanmar, Vietnam, Thailand, Hong
Kong, India, and South Korea that
would follow up on various agendas
discussed at the two summits.
“As the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) opens in 2015, it will be a
new market of 600 million people…
with a very high capacity for the regional gems and jewellery industry,“
said Damrongsakul, who added that
this market would help shore up lagging sales in Europe and the United
M A R K E TP L A C E
Rubies by TC Mining.
Sapphire, diamond, and ruby rings by Pranda.
Diamond and sapphire earrings by Beverley K.
States. He went on to add that, as part
of AEC, the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry
fair could become a very effective link
to the world and vice versa.
Of special interest at the fair was
Pranda’s celebration of its 40th Anniversary. In honour of the event, the Thai
brand sponsored an evening event in
which employees demonstrated their
design skills known as the Pranda
Process, the core values instilled in
and reflected by all employees. Also
on exhibit was jewellery from a number of the brands for which Pranda
manufactures.
“For the past 40 years, the Pranda
Group has accomplished the impossible in the jewellery world. We
are able to mass produce fine quality jewellery products that were once
achieved only through the handmade
process by highly-skilled master goldsmiths,” observed Mr. Prida Tiasuwan,
Chairman of Pranda Group. “By being
able to meet the global mass demand
for consistence in high quality jewellery, we are truly the master of mass
craftsmanship and have changed the
old perception that commercialized
jewellery could never be beautiful and
long lasting.”
The branding of Thai gems and
jewellery included the release of an
updated edition of “Thailand’s Best
Gems & Jewelry Guide Book,” a comprehensive directory of members of
the Jewel Fest Club (JFC). Founded
Mumbai, India. “The beautiful designs
also tell us about the trends. Compared to other countries, Thailand
offers a better opportunity for us to
meet the good sellers and buyers.
Basically, if you come here for four
days, you can find everything.”
Ms. Maret Viljoen, owner of Viljoen
Juweliers Co., Ltd in South Africa was
thrilled to be at the fair. “I am very
excited about the event. It’s a good
place to explore things from the rest
of the world, an eye opener for the
rest of the industry.”
“We come here because we want to
see what’s happening inside Thailand
and get good trade information on
stone vendors that are only available
in Thailand,” said John Croston, Vice
President of Manufacturing for David
Yurman in Hong Kong. “Here you have
certain specialties and certain cuts
that are only available here. Thailand
is the capital for sapphire and corundum. Not being here is a mistake because Thailand is different from some
other nations. It continues to expand
the labour pool with training and apprentice programs that really help the
jewellery industry.”
As various government agencies
and the fair’s organizers continue to
work together to help Thailand look
to the future, the fair will continue to
grow. Next year’s 53rd edition will be
held February 25 to March 1, 2014.
68
Silver and Swarovski Marcasite pendant
by Monplaisir.
in 1997, the JFC has the support of
the TGJTA and the Tourism Authority
of Thailand. Its objectives are to: promote customers’ confidence in Thailand’s gem and jewellery trade; set the
standards of retail business in the industry; educate consumers; and solve
the problems caused by the fraudulent
practices of some retailers. Consumers can look for the Jewelry Fest Club
logo in shop windows to be assured of
a satisfactory buying experience.
Buyers’ Comments
“This event is really wonderful to
see,” said Hatim Motiwala, owner of
Burhani Jewellers Dazzling Creations
and Maimoon Collections Co., Ltd in
Carved lion sculpture by KdeCraft.
(bangkokgemsfair.com)
Today, more than any other time, adding colored gemstones
and cultured pearls to your business is important in improving profits and
distinguishing yourself in the marketplace. But where do you begin to buy
smart and buy safe? Rely on an AGTA Member. Our Members annually
sign the strictest Code of Ethics that signifies their commitment to
maintaining the industry’s highest standards and they fully disclose
gem enhancements. At the AGTA Gem Fair ™ Tucson, in the secure
comfort of the Tucson Convention Center, you will find the highest quality,
best value and broadest selection. You’ll
connect with US- and Canadian-based
professionals plus attend seminars and workshops that will educate and inspire. Look to
an AGTA Member to help you find your
true color at the 2014 AGTA GemFair Tucson.
Show/Hotel Information: AGTA.org
AGTA Office: 800-972-1162
M A R K E TP L A C E
INTERGEM PROCLAIMS
ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL SHOW
Intergem 2013 opened to promising crowds on October 1 in Idar-Oberstein, Germany
and fulfilled this promise of success to the very end.
By Karen Nuckols
F
or the first time, Intergem began on
a Thursday and closed on Sunday
rather than opening Friday and ending
on Monday, which seemed to please
the visiting crowds. Kai-Ewe Hille,
Intergem’s managing director, stated
that about 3200 visitors and buyers
attended the 29th edition of the show,
which was about the same as last
year. Given the economic climate in
some parts of the world, Hille considered this to be an excellent turnout.
One of the larger pieces of opal found at
Pedro Segundo, Brazil by Brasil Opal.
During the show, one of the more
inspirational talks was given by Sir
Gabi Tolkowsky, famed diamond cutter. In a very philosophical approach,
Tolkowsky began with the everchanging clouds, and continued to observations about humanity, love, and
friendship, before finally turning to
diamonds. He mused that a diamond
reflects his soul, and while perfect
diamonds are something to behold,
those with inclusions—imperfections
to many—are one-of-a-kinds, never to
be repeated by nature.
70
For the 139 exhibitors at Intergem,
reflections of their soul were seen not
only in diamonds, but also in pearls
and gemstones of all sizes and descriptions. At this show, they speak
to the designers and to those selling facetted gems, pearls, strands of
beads, and objets d’art in a way that
is different from other fairs. There is
a passion among the exhibitors that
was reflected in Tolkowsky’s talk, especially among the 54 local exhibitors
who have long family histories in the
gem and jewellery business.
Constantin Wild of the company,
W. Constantin Wild, spoke of “Great
Temptations” which evoke the stones
he presented for the first time in his
premium line of “more than just rare.”
He explains: “More and more gemstone lovers and women who wear
jewellery wish they had this kind of
very large, unusual, high-quality stone.
Coloured gemstones like these are
very rare and mostly unique: the larger the stone, the smaller the chance
that similar specimens exist. That also
makes these thoroughly individual
jewellery and collector’s items very
suitable as secure investments.” Wild
went on to add that the demand for
rare stones is growing at a rapid rate.
Wild hails from a centuries-old
dynasty of goldsmiths and gemstone
cutters, and now manages W. Constantin Wild & Co., founded in 1847. He is
the fourth generation of the family to
operate the business, and has had an
intimate knowledge of the gemstone
market for more than 25 years.
Opal ring by Andrea Sohne.
Jochen Knitte of Brasil Opal displayed a number of opal specimens
from the Pedro Segundo area in Brazil.
His stones were the only opals from
Brazil, and he mentioned that the
German dealers had never seen anything like them. Opals in this area of
Brazil were discovered in 1989. The
rough pieces he was showing were
found in March 2012, the largest alluvial deposit find in over 20 years.
Knigge said this opal has a very
low water content, so is perfect for
doublets and watch faces.
Wild & Petsch’s Alexander Wild
responded to a question about the
younger generations wanting to continue in the gemstone and jewellery
tradition that goes back over 500
years in the Idar-Oberstein region. He
said he is not concerned, that there
are still children, both men and women,
Green amber by Hermann Grimm KG.
who are continuing family businesses. He also noted
that Hong Kong and Intergem were good shows for him,
since he carries a wide variety of high-quality stones, and
that customers know he can get what they need.
Achim Grimm of Hermann Grimm KG who runs the
business with his son, Sebastian, sells a unique variety of
cut stones at all price points. One of his favourites is green
amber, which he says he will be selling again in Tucson in
February. He is putting together a large inventory of
stones for that show. He also was pleased with sales in
Hong Kong and at Intergem.
An array of colourful gemstones
displayed by Rolf Goerlitz.
Andrea Sohne spoke about her growing jewellery design business. “It used to be just Christmas sales, but
now people buy when they want to. The last two years
have been very good.” She attributes her success to her
very wearable but unique one-of-a-kind designs.
Konrad Henn of Karl Feller, stated “With the fair starting on Thursday (Reunification Day) this year instead of
Friday, it made it very easy for jewellers, goldsmiths, and
others to visit.” He added that he saw buyers from Ireland,
England, Austria, and Asia, including a large Indian company. Henn also said three representatives from Cartier
visited at his invitation.
Jorn Petterson of Adamas Smykke-design, a jewellery
store owner and his wife
from Bamberg, Norway
were enthusiastic about
their first-time visit to the
show. “We bought some
bread and butter stones,
plus some spice,” he
smiled.
During the coming year,
the fair office will certainly be
abuzz with plans for the milestone 30th edition, which will
be held October 3 - 6, 2014.
Puzzle watch by August Veeck.
(intergem.com)
72
Sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre
n Exhibitors : 85 Antwerp diamond companies.
n Visitors : jeweller retailers, designers,
manufacturers. By invitation only.
n www.antwerpdiamondfair.com
n MARKETPLACE
HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR
ANOTHER RECORD YEAR
Split between two venues, the 31st edition of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
attracted a record crowd of nearly 53,000 buyers from 154 countries and regions.
By Karen Nuckols
W
ith the waterfront Hong Kong
Convention & Exhibition Center (HKCEC) serving as the base
for finished jewellery and AsiaWorld
Expo (AWE) near the airport hosting
the exhibitors of loose stones, pearls,
components, and packaging, this edition was the largest in the fair’s history with a combined area of 135,000
square metres, and also attracted the
largest vistor attendance ever.
Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs,
UBM Asia, explained the reason for
this remarkable result: “Given its strong
global reputation, participating in the
September Fair has become a tradition for serious international jewellers.
The September Fair offers virtually every product in all major categories in
the gemstone and jewellery industry.
The latest edition proved once again
to be the ideal platform for conducting business, gathering market intelligence and networking.”
In terms of sales, Lau went on to
say, “Demand for diamonds and gemstones was robust. The 6.8 percent
growth in visitor numbers from Asia
compared to last year’s edition tells
us that the region continues to be the
engine of growth for the luxury jewellery market. Specifically, the number
of buyers from the Chinese mainland
was up 11 percent and from India up
11.6 percent. We also noticed growth
in the number of buyers from other
Asian nations such as Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam.”
Even with a fair as successful as
this, the show organizers realize how
important it is to offer initiatives to
74
Gold and diamond rings by BK Jewellery.
assist visitors by facilitating their buying experience. This year UBM introduced the Fair Mobile App, which,
according to Jime Essink, President
and CEO of UBM Asia, Ltd., includes,
“interactive floor plans and the latest
information about the fair, making
it easier for buyers to find their way
around the two venues and thus plan
their visits more efficiently.”
Building on the success of the
Trade Buyer ID project launched in
Gold and diamond jewellery
by Continental Jewellery.
2012, UBM lets
buyers with the
Trade Buyer ID
card enter any of
its fairs without
registering. Over
10,000 jewellery
buyers from 92
countries hold this
Gold and diamond
“Bamboo” ring
ID card.
by Green G.
Other new features
included the introduction of the diamond auction organized by the Alrosa
Group, Russia’s leading diamond company. The pearl auctions continued as
well.
Adding to the international flavour of
the show, the Japan Pearl Promotion
Society and the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association hosted special events
in its “Think Pearls, Think Japan” initiative centring on Japanese pearls.
Happy about the success of these
events, Angela Chien, Manager of
Shinyu Co. Ltd., in China stated, “The
September fair’s status as a major B2B
event makes it the ideal platform for
the ‘Think Pearls, Think of Japan’ campaign. It successfully drew people’s
attention to pearls from Japan. We
will participate again in 2014.”
At AWE, gemstone dealers reported
a strong demand from China for tourmaline, tanzanite, and emeralds. “Since
the price of tourmaline is quite high
now, they are opting to go for stones
of 2 to 3 carats,” said Nirmal Bardiya,
president of RMC Gems India. Previously, Chinese buyers wanted larger
stones. Other vendors reported the
trend towards smaller, high-quality
Ruby and diamond tassel earrings by MVee.
Quartz and diamond ring by Forever Jewels.
Gemstone and diamond ring by Peter Lam.
stones as well. Popular stones sought
by buyers from other parts of the
world included garnets, blue topaz,
and Paraiba tourmaline. Bardiya noted
that because of the scarcity of Brazilian Paraiba, buyers are taking African
material, but even that is becoming
scarce.
Sudhir Jain, Vice President of FEI in
New York noted, “We met some target
overseas buyers from Europe, India,
and the United States, and did good
business.” Sophie Jin, a representative
of Drybooms Diamonds in Belgium
said there was a higher demand for
diamonds compared to last year. “We
met a number of target buyers from
Asia, especially from China,” she said.
At HKCEC, a wide range of jewellery styles was available, from the simple to lavish. Nature influenced many
designs, including enamel butterflies
from Commelin and Mathon, both of
France, and gold and white diamond
butterfly earrings from Unicorn Jewelry Design of Hong Kong. Gwennie
Tam’s nature-inspired jewellery included a spouting whale ring of opals
and diamonds.
Traffic was heavy in the Hong Kong
Pavilion but somewhat slower at the
Premier Pavilion. In spite of this, some
exhibitors said they did brisk business. Frank Ferrari, International Sales
Gemstone and diamond pendant
by E&V Jewellery.
Officer for Jewelmer, was one of the
happy exhibitors. “The September
Fair is one of the world’s best jewellery trade fairs. It is a great platform to
promote our brand,” he said. “This year,
our booth gained lots of attention and
attracted many potential buyers from
around the world, particularly Australia, China, Turkey, and Russia.”
Ingo Henn of Henn of London also
was pleased with traffic: “We met a
lot of serious buyers from around the
world, particularly from Asia.” Hiroko
Saito, of Hiroko Saito in Japan, agreed
with that assessment: “We are happy
with the result of our participation because we met our target buyers from
China and Hong Kong.”
Buyers’ Comments
First-time fair visitors and veterans
alike shared their experiences at the
show: “Hong Kong is an important
jewellery trading hub and the September fair is a huge sourcing platform
with good exhibitor quality and product
variety. The show is fabulous, exiting
and interesting. I met many new suppliers from China, India, Hong Kong,
and Thailand,” noted Esther Fortunoff,
President of Fortunoff Fine Jewelery
in the USA.
First-time visitor Miho Aizawa, Manager of Chantecler in Japan had this
to say: “It is a very big and well organized show, and the quality of exhibitors and products is very good. The
fair’s mobile app is very user friendly
and helped me find suppliers easily. I
will visit again next year.”
Eighth-time visitor, Roland Noser,
chief buyer of pearls and international
production manager for Bucherer in
Switzerland, commented, “It is a highly
influential B2B jewellery fair and is
well organized. The quality of exhibitors is good, and the product range is
wide. I upgraded my badge to a Trade
Buyer ID this year as it is very convenient and environment friendly. I will
visit again, definitely.”
A sampling of some of the talented
Asian jewellery designers and brands
can be seen on these pages.
The 32rd edition of the fair will be
held from September 15-21, 2014
with the AWE section taking place
September 15 to 19 and the HKCEC
from September 17 to 21.
75
MARKETPLACE
Pendant made of pyrite,
red leather strands,
and gold chains
by Vasundhara.
Jade and diamond necklace
by TTF Haute Joaillerie.
South Sea golden pearl and
diamond necklace by Jewelmer.
Gold and diamond
ring by Elan.
JNA Awards
Established by Letitia Chow, founder
of JNA and 2013 chair of the judging
panel, the second annual JNA Awards
dinner was held at the Grand Hyatt in
Hong Kong on September 12. Nearly
90 entries were received from companies in 13 Asian countries and regions. From those entries a short list
of 39 companies in 14 categories
emerged, which were then featured in
a glossy publication, “Jewellery Industry Best Practices,” given to all dinner
guests.
According to Wolfram Diener, senior
vice president of UBM Asia, “Our list
of honourees serves as a testament to
the fact that Asia’s jewellery industry
is full of thriving and innovative businesses and individuals with diverse
talents. The quality of the entries has
been outstanding, and it is an honour
for UBM Asia to work closely with
them to further develop the jewellery
industry and market in Asia. We are
delighted to extend our congratulations to them all.”
JNA’s highest honour, the Lifetime
Achievement Award, went to Leung
Sik Wah for his exceptional contribu76
tion to the jewellery and gemstone industry. Leung, who is based in Hong
Kong, was instrumental in establishing Hong Kong as a pearl auction
hub. Among his other achievements,
Leung is the Honorary Life President
of the Diamond Federation of Hong
Kong, China and Chairman of the
Hong Kong Tourism Board’s Quality
Tourism Services Scheme, established
to promote integrity and transparency in retail jewellery in Hong Kong.
“Hong Kong has not only become a
shopper’s paradise for jewellery retail,
but also a manufacturing and trading
powerhouse. It is also one of Asia’s
brightest diamond and pearl trading
centres,” Leung commented. “The
JNA Awards has a positive impact on
the industry and I feel blessed to be a
part of such a prestigious endeavour.”
The Outstanding Contribution of the
Year Award went to Wallace Chan, a
celebrated jewellery artist, whose outstanding work spans 40 years. Chan
is internationally recognized as one
of several Chinese jewellery artists.
He pushes the creative boundaries
of design and jewellery making. He
Opal and diamond
“Spouting Whale”
by Gwenie Tam.
was the only Chinese jewellery artist
to be invited to the 26th Biennale de
Antiquaires in Paris in 2012, where he
showed his collection of one-of-a-kind
luxury pieces set with imperial jade,
diamonds, and coloured stones. “I am
delighted and honoured to have been
selected for the prestigious award,” he
said. “This recognition serves as a reminder of my glorious journey in the
industry.”
Some of the other award winners
were: Jewelmer International Corporation and Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd for Employer of the Year;
TTF Haute Joaillerie for Outstanding Enterprise of the Year, Mainland
China; Dharmanandan Diamonds Pvt
Ltd and Pranda Group for Sustainability Initiative of the Year; and Chow Tai
Fook Jewellery Group Ltd for Retailer
of the Year. The complete list can be
seen at jnaawards.com.
DESIGN
BUILDING
QUALITY
TOTAL MASTERY OF YOUR BOOTH AT BASELWORLD 2014
1630 BULLE-SWITZERLAND | PHONE +41 26 919 88 77 | RABOUDGROUP.COM
EDITORIAL & ADVERTISERS’ INDEX
2(X)IST Watches 30
A & Furst 22, 33
A.Link 53
Absolute OroAfrica 18
AcP by Quadamas 31, 52
Adami & Martucci 38
AG Design 17
AGTA Gem Fair 69
Al Coro 39
Alessio Boschi 26
Alfieri & St. John 52
Alice K 37
Amali 19
Amberif 80
Ambermix 25
Andrea Candela 17
Andrea Sohne 70
Andrew Meyer 51
Annamaria Cammilli 59
Antonini 51
Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 73
Anzie 39
Armadani 35
Artistry Limited 52
Arunashi 26
AS29 23, 51
August Veeck 72
Autore 20
Azuelos Jewelry 53
Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 71
Bapalal Keshavlal 4, 5, 50, 52, 53, 20
Barbara Heinrich 26
BaselWorld 56, 57
Bavna 35
Bayco 22
Beauty Gems 66
Bellarri 30
Bellon 36
Bergio 19
Beverley K 68
Bibigi 51
Bielka 49
Bizzotto Gioielli 17, 39
B K Jewellery 27, 74
Blue River 66
Bohemme 21, 38
Bonato 39
Brasil Opal 70
Brusi 59
Bulgari 22, 53
Carelle 26
Carla Amorim 19, 22
Caroline C 20, 25, 28, 29, 37
Casato Roma 35
Chad Allison 20
Charles Garnier 19
Charles Krypell 19
Chaumet 35
Cheté 19
Christian Tse 53
Christine Hafermalz-Wheeler 23
Clara Williams 22
Claude Thibaudeau 52
Clementina Duarte 32
Cody Opals 26
Coge 37
Color Story 34
Commelin 25
Constantin Wild 30, 37, 72
Continental Jewellery 74
Coomi 50
Cordova 19
Cornelia Goldsmith 17
Costis 32
Couture Show 61
Cris Porto 51
Crivelli 38
Dada Arrigoni 20, 23, 36
Damiani 20
David Lin 36, 48
Delance 33, 43
Denise James 22, 32
Denny Wong 34
Different Gems 32
Dreamtime 26
E & V Jewellery 33, 75
Eclat Jewels 53
Effy 34
Eichorn 34
Elan 76
Eli Jewels 38, 50
Elke Berr 34
Entice by KGK 22
Erica Courtney 36, 52
Faberge 22
80
Facet 19, 50
Federica Rettore 18
Fondation Haute Horlogerie 81
Forever Jewels 75
FR Hueb 23
Garavelli 19, 36
Garrard 22, 23, 24
Gavello 34, 37
Gem Platinum 31
Gemfields 9
Gemveto 25
Georland 25
Giovanni Ferraris 33, 49
GL Group 24
Goldiaq Creation 17
Goldlip 64
Gordon Aatlo Designs 51
Graff 22, 31
Green G 52, 74
Gumuchian 30, 52
Gwennie Tam 25, 76
H.Weiss 24, 38
Hellmuth 21
Hermann Grimm 72
Hilat 30
HK Jewellery & Gem Fair 62, 63
HK Jewellery & Jade Mfgr
Assn 77
HK Trade Devel. Council 67
Horsecka 21
I Gregori 60
Iladro 48
Imogen Belfield 23
InBar 38
Inhorgenta Munich 65
Isabelle Langlois 36
Ivanka Trump 19
J Jewels 39
Jack Kelege 16, 32, 52, 53
Jackie Aiche 35
Jacqueline Diani 35
James Kaya 34
Jane A. Gordon 48
Jewelmer 19, 24, 45, 54, 55, 82
JFA Designs 39
Jochen Pohl C.I, 10, 11, 35, 39
John Apel 53
Joia 17
Jolie B. Ray 22
Jörg Heinz 51
Just Jules 20
Jye Luxury Collection 12, 13, 30, 53
Kabana 32
Kabana 49
Kara Ross 37, 60
Katherine Jetter 26
Katie Decker 22, 33
Kavant 17, 18
KdeCraft 68
Kendra Scott 38
Kwiat 35
La Reina 34
Lafonn 19
Le Vian 32
Leaderline 19, 30
Leyla Abdolahi 20
Lithos Jewelry 42, 43
Loretta Castoro 33
Louis Fiessler 17
Louis Vuitton 52
Luca Carati 25, 50
Lydia Courteille 21
Madstone 21
Magerit 14, 15, 25, 38
Mahallati 66
Marco Bicego 17
Marco Valente 59
Margery Hirschey 26
Mariani 59
Marina B 24
Mark Schneider 32
Masriera 48
Mathon Paris 25, 37, 53
Mattiolli 39
Mazza 22, 34
MCL 36
Megemeria 47
Meissen Joaillerie 30
Messika 53
Metalsmiths Sterling 50
Michael Endlich 26
Michael M 53
Mimi 36
Misaki 25
Misis 25, 48
Monplaisir 48, 68
Moraglione 33
Mousson Atelier 7, 37
Muzo International 40, 41, C.IV
MVee 26, 49, 51, 75
Nanis 31
Nikos Koulis 20
Nina Runsdorf 18
Noudar 23
Nouvelle Bague 32
Old World Chain 32
Olivier de Saintloup 21
Oly Lynggaard 31
Omi Privé 30
Oro Trend 25
Oromalia 59
Oscar Heyman 49
Palmiero 17
Pamela Froman 23
Pamela Huizenga 18, 26, 37, 38
Parulina 23
Pasquale Bruni 53
Paula Crevoshay 25, 26
Pearce Design 18
Penny Preville 34
Peter Lam 75
Picchiotti 58
Pippo Perez 21
Ponte Vecchio 38, 53
Pranda 19, 68
Raboud 78, 79
Rahaminov 53 31
Ramon 2, 3, 19, 24, 31
Rebecca 24, 33
Reena Ahluwalia 51
Revabella 51
Rina Limor 18
Rivoir 36
Robert Wan 35
Roberto Coin 38, 49, 58
Rodney Rayner 31
Rolf Goerlitz 72
Rosato 48, 50, 59
Rosy Blue 44, C.III
Royal India 22
Rudolf Friedman 22
Samra 52
Sanalitro 60
Sethi Couture 35, 51
Sharart 26, 35
SHO 58
Sicis Watches 21, 35
Sifani 19
Sillam Jewelry 22, 25
Simons Jewelers 46
Speake-Marin 21
Staurino 25
Stephen Webster 22, 23, 50, 58
Sun Jewels 18
Suna Bros. 26
Susan Wheeler 26
Sutra 23
Suzy Landa 26
Swarovski Gems 35
Sylvie 31, 52
Syna 30
Tavares Gems 50
TC Mining 68
The Fifth Season 19
Thistle & Bee 31, 37
Ti Sento 33
Tirisi Jewelry 35
Toby Pomeroy 18
Todd Reed 18
Topaz B.K.K. 66
Tresor 17
TTF Haute Joaillerie 76
Union Suiza 51
Utopia 60
Valery Demure 23
Vasundhara 76
Vendorafa 59
Vianna Brasil 20, 36, 39
Victor Mayer 38
Victor Veylan 24, 26
Vida 21
Vincent Agor 18
Waskoll 22
Wendy Yue 21, 49
Wild & Petsch 33
Yoko London 17
Yvel 47
Zancan 60
Zorab 24
Zydo 60
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R E V I E W
THE ULTIMATE ORIENT
THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT PEARL
One of the most fascinating autobiographies of the year,, Jacques
Branellec’s The Ultimate Orient – The Quest for the Perfect Pearl
is a story unlike any other,, filled with extraordinary adventures in
extraordinary places that few can ever even dream about.
T
he often overcast skies of a small port in the Brittany
region of northwest France quickly gave way to the
call of the open seas. The compelling narrative of Jacques
Branellec, from navigator to commercial pilot to environmentalist pearl farmer to community leader, chronicles
the trials and errors and often death defying challenges—
both from nature and man—that he experienced during his
many travels around the world. The book is also filled with
love and laughter, friendship and family, philosophy and
wisdom.
The first steps of Branellec’s daring adventures took
him initially to North America, then to the lost atolls of
Tahiti, where this professional pilot constructed airstrips
against all odds, thus opening the islands to the world.
It was also in Tahiti where he established his first cultured
pearl farm, succeeding in a domain that had previously
been reserved for the Japanese. Today, the black pearls
that he developed are Polynesia’s primary export.
After Tahiti, this adventurer sailed around the world,
continuing his quest for the perfect pearl in the waters
of the Caribbean, Panama, the Galapagos, the Marquesas Islands, Tonga, Fiji, the New Hybrides, Australia, and
New Guinea. Finally, he landed on Palawan, one of the
most remote islands in the Philippines. There, he discovered the Badjaos, who have transferred the secrets of
diving to depths as great as 80 meters from one generation to the next. With the help of these “gypsies of
the sea,” Branellec collected giant oysters—whose size
can attain an incredible 26 centimetres in diameter—
that he used to produce the largest pearls in the world.
He formed a partnership with respected Filipino businessman, Manuel Cojuangco, and together they created
Jewelmer, now known for its exquisite golden pearls.
Over the course of his many dives, Branellec brought
to light the wreck of a 15th century Chinese junk, and
describes the trials and tribulations of its exploration. The
wreck finally revealed a fabulous treasure of nearly 5,000
pieces of inestimable archaeological value.
82
In more than 240 pages, Jacques
Branellec shares the incredible
story of his search for the perfect
pearl. This hardcover book will be
available for sale at US$29.00 as
of January 2014 at Jewelmer and
Amazon.com, with proceeds to
benefit SPSF. (Jewelmer.com)
ISBN 978-971-0321-36-0
Concerned about the eventual extinction of the archipelago’s natural oyster beds, Branellec and the team at
Jewelmer spent years researching and mastering the
reproduction of the prized mollusks in hatcheries. The
resulting highly valued jewels from the South Seas soon
became the pride of the Philippines and the nation’s
national symbol. Today, Jewelmer is the largest pearl producer on the planet, and its Jewelmer Joaillerie division
produces a line of spectacular golden pearl jewellery.
Realizing his quest for the perfect pearl, Branellec then
turned his attention to the environment and how people
can make a difference not only in helping protect the natural world, but also in improving the lives of the island’s
inhabitants. In 2006, Jewelmer created a special organization called Save Palawan Seas Foundation (SPSF), whose
programs over the last few years have provided workable
alternatives for coastal communities. These include effective conservation and management strategies to facilitate
the long-term sustainable use of marine resources of the
province of Palawan.
With expressive detail, Jacques Branellec shares with
the reader his more than four-decade physical and spiritual
journey from the occident to the orient, where he finally
discovers the Ultimate Orient.
complete
collection.
the right diamond, of the precise
quality, with the perfect
finish and in the exact quantity —
this is our promise, every time.
comprehensive and consistent production
of the highest quality diamonds in an
array of styles enables a flawless service, inspiring
trust in our customers.
from the largest international brands to the
smallest specialist jeweller, rosy blue can present
a portfolio of polished diamonds to accommodate
any order, anywhere in the world. and beyond
our customary ranges, our designers will devise
new cuts to meet any vision.
w w w. r o s y b l u e . c o m
The DTC SighTholDer logo iS a TraDe mark
uSeD unDer liCenCe from The De BeerS group
25.17 ct emerald cut in our Bogotá workshops, from a 43.75 ct rough,
mined in Muzo, Colombia, February the 29th 2012.
27.59 ct emerald cut in our Bogotá workshops, from a 48.52 ct rough,
mined in Muzo, Colombia, May the 21st 2013.
BaselWorld 2014 – March 27-April 03 – Hall 3.0, Booth D31
www.muzoemerald.com

No 298 / Winter - Trends Guide 2014

Transcription

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