Index to Modernist Cuisine Kitchen Manual

Transcription

A
INDEX to the Kitchen Manual
ABALONE
A
abalone
Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with
Yuba and Enoki, 84
best bets for cooking, 83
acetaldehyde, Marinated Spaghetti Squash, 26
acetic acid
Constructed Veal Cream, 300
for lowering pH, 22
Achatz, Grant
Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and
Thyme recipe, 113
Bacon Powder Squares recipe, 206
Eggs Benedict recipe, 236
Mozzarella Balloons recipe, 249
Shrimp Cocktail recipe, 80
Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel recipe, 289
Vanilla Olive Oil Powder recipe, 207
acidity. See pH
acids. See also acetic acid; ascorbic acid; citric
acid; lactic acid; malic acid; tartaric acid
concentrations of, 23
for lowering pH, 22
oxalic, to preserve color and flavor of fresh
juice, 31
acorn squash, cooking sous vide until tender,
best bets for, 139
Activa
in coarse-ground sausages, 125, 126
for frankfurters, 129
GS
Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon
Dashi, 254
Flourless Gnocchi, 254
for gelatin gels, 252
Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95
Rare Flatiron Steak, 89
Sous Vide Duck Ham, 109
Sous Vide Rabbit Loin, 70
Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93
for mortadella, 129
RM
for blood sausage, 129
Buckwheat Dough, 194
in buckwheat pasta, 191
Chawanmushi, 242
Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup, 311
Dashi, 254
for egg gels, 252
Fermented Shrimp Sheets, 134
Fried Chicken Sausage, 137
364 Activa, RM (continued)
Modernist Fried Chicken, 166
Pork Tenderloin with Juniper, 69
Rare Beef Sausage, 137
Salmon Custard, 253
Skate Pavé with Bread Crust, 78
Sous Vide Duck Confit Pavé, 82
for soy gels, 252
TI
in coarse-ground sausages, 126
YG
for dairy gels, 252
Modernist Burrata, 247
Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252
Adrià, Albert, simulation of nature in dishes
of, 208
Adrià, Ferran, 311
Agar Carbonara recipe, 275
Beet Meringue recipe, 335
Black Olive Puree recipe, 306
Black Sesame Rice Crisps recipe, 343
Blood Orange Foam recipe, 317
Corn Foam recipe, 318
Crimini in Amber recipe, 271
fast hot-spring quail egg recipe, 232
Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam recipe, 340
Ham Consommé with Melon Beads recipe,
211
Hot Apricot Marshmallow recipe, 334
Hot Butter Foam recipe, 324
Hot Egg Mayonnaise recipe, 303
hot potato foams made by, 324
Liquid Pimento Olive recipe, 294
Melon Caviar recipe, 291
Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake recipe,
333
Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres recipe, 294
Oysters with Mignonette Air recipe, 313
Parmesan Nuggets recipe, 206
shellfish custard of, 276
simulation of nature in dishes of, 208
Soy Sauce Cloud recipe, 339
Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto recipe, 198
Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 284
Thickened Oil recipe, 306
Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto recipe, 262
Aduriz, Andoni Luis
Clay Potatoes recipe, 199
Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles
recipe, 314
VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
Aduriz, Andoni Luis (continued)
Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea
Lettuce recipe, 99
Fossilized Salsify Branch recipe, 199
Idiazábal Gnocchi recipe, 258
Monkfish with Constructed Skin recipe, 95
Quinoa and Idiazábal with Bonito Stock
Veil recipe, 281
Sweet Pea Clusters recipe, 284
Watermelon Meat recipe, 197
Aerated Chocolate, 349
Aerated Coffee Ice Cream, 349
Aerated Foie Gras, 348
Aerated Gruyère, 348
Aerated Mango Sorbet, 347
Aerolatte. See whipping wand, handheld
agar
Agar Carbonara, 275
Beef Shank Rillette, 87
for brittle edible films, 229
Chili Pearls, 265
for coating gels, 269
for cold gels, 260
Dairy-Free Whipped Cream, 326
Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade, 281
Eggless Mayonnaise, 309
for fluid gels, 285
Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus
Glaze, 272
Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273
for hot fruit gels, 279
for hot gels, 274
Hot Orange Gel, 279
Knot Foie, 264
for light foams, 316
Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino, 320
Olive Oil “Mayonnaise,” 309
Olive Oil Noodles, 266
Veil, 281
Salt Gel, 261
Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame,
Ponzu, 266
Sherry Gel Cube, 267
Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel, 262
Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto, 198
for tender edible gels, 229
for thick foams, 322
Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto, 262
Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 289
Aged Rare Beef Jus, 216
AVOCADOS
air-cooling
Pommes Pont-Neuf, 160
vacuum cooling compared with, 161
air-drying
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham, 110
Century Egg, 234
Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,” 111
Lemon Strips, 228
roasting chicken in combi oven, 3
Salted Halibut, 112
Saucisson Sec, 134
Sea Urchin Bottarga, 111
airs, 312–313
best bets for, 312
albumin powder
as adhesive for breading, 167
for airs, bubbles, and froths, 312
Beet Meringue, 335
Eggplant Foam, 324
Green Olive Meringue, 339
Gruyère Soufflé, 340
in semolina pasta, 191
for set foams, 330
alcohol (ethanol)
best bets for adding flavor with, 24
extracting flavor with, 26–27
for washing citrus oil, 26
ale, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
Algin 400F, Lemon Strips, 228
alkaline ramen, dough for, best bets for, 191
Alléno, Yannick, Venison Loin Rossini recipe,
69
almond flour, Edible Earth, 208
almonds
Almond Polenta, 207
Marcona Almond Butter Paste, 205
Mughal Curry Sauce, 222
Toasted Almond Milk, 228
alpha tocopherol, to preserve color and flavor
of fresh juice, 31
amaranth risotto, best bets for, 152
The American Cheese Slice, 300
American Wagyu Beef Cheek, 89
anchovies, seasoning with, 21
Anderson, Scott, Crispy Sweetbreads recipe,
100
Andrés, José
Carbonated Mojito Spheres recipe, 291
Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips
recipe, 329
Ankimo Torchon, 97
apple cider/apple juice
Apple Cider Consommé, 43
hard, batter made with, best bets for, 163
Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and
Water Chestnuts, 73
Salted Caramel Apple Puree, 145
Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage
Juice, 47
apples
acidity of, 278
chips using, best bets for, 162
compressing/impregnating, best bets for,
195
cooking sous vide until tender, best bets for,
138
Curry-Impregnated Apple, 196
dehydrating, best bets for, 185
freeze-drying, best bets for, 188
Hot Green Apple Gel, 280
Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam, 320
preserving, best bets for, 182
puree of
best bets for, 55
best bets for cooking apples for, 144
smoked, best bets for, 183
White Coleslaw, 302
apricots
acidity of, 278
195
138
dried, Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 217
Hot Apricot Marshmallow, 334
aquarium bubblers
Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles, 314
Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam, 313
aquarium salt, Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119
aquavit, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
Armagnac, infusing flavors into liquids with,
24
Arnold, Dave
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 119
Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil recipe,
41
Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 288
Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, 160
Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, 241
Aromatic Alsatian Mustard, 176
arrowroot, thickening with, best bets for, 200
artichokes
acidity of, 278
Artichoke and Potato Chaat, 158
baby
cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for,
143
frying naked, best bets for, 159
Chinese, cooking sous vide with fat, best
bets for, 143
mature, cooking sous vide with fat, best
bets for, 143
puree of, best bets for, 55
Sous Vide Artichoke, 142
Arzak, Juan Mari
Egg Blossom recipe, 232
Strawberry Milk Shake recipe, 62
INDEX A
ascorbic acid
Beet Meringue, 335
Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291
Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus, 33
Gremolata Crisp, 346
for lowering pH, 22
to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice, 31
Asian pears, chips using, best bets for, 162
asparagus
acidity of, 278
Asparagus Royale, 241
195
cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147
139
green, frying naked, best bets for, 159
Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 142
white, frying naked, best bets for, 159
aspartame, Lemon Strips, 228
autoclaving
Autoclaved Onion Soup, 150
Fresh Cheese Curds, 247
autumn squash. See also specific kinds of squash
139
Avicel CG200, Pea Vine Salad, 222
avocados
acidity of, 278
Avocado Puree, 201
365
B
B
BACON
bacon
Agar Carbonara, 275
Bacon Chip, 104
Thyme, 113
Bacon Dashi, 18
Bacon Jam, 304
Bacon Powder Squares, 206
Canadian, Eggs Benedict, 236
consommé using, best bets for, 42–43
cooking in combi oven, 2
infusing flavor into liquids from, 20
seasoning with, 21
Shrimp and Grits, 190
Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338
Spaghetti Carbonara, 192
Bactoferm
F-LC
Fast-Cured Pepperoni, 135
for fermented sausage, 132–133
F-RM 52, Saucisson Sec, 134
T-SPX, for fermented sausage, 132
bagels, Everything Bagel Broth, 258
Bagna Càuda Consommé, 44
Baked Beans, 149
Baked Potato Broth, 19
Baked Potato Foam, 324
baking soda
to accelerate Maillard reaction, 203
marinade technique using, 119
bamboo shoots, cooking sous vide until
tender, best bets for, 139
bananas
acidity of, 278
Banana Yogurt, 41
138
Hot Banana Gel, 280
puree of, best bets for cooking bananas for,
144
Bandel, Horst, Rye Bread recipe, 337
Banyuls Glaze, 38
barbecue sauces
East Texas Barbecue Sauce, 221
House Barbecue Sauce, 220
Kansas City Barbecue Sauce, 220
Kentucky Barbecue Sauce, 219
Memphis Barbecue Sauce, 221
North Carolina (Eastern Region) Barbecue
Sauce, 221
North Carolina (Lexington-Style) Barbecue Sauce, 219
South Carolina Barbecue Sauce, 219
Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel, 327
barbecuing, grilling vs., 49
366 Barbot, Pascal, Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart recipe, 98
barley, pearl
best bets for, 342
cooking under pressure, best bets for, 149
puffed snacks made from, best bets for, 342
Ragout of Grains, 156
risotto using, best bets for, 152
barley malt powder, Edible Earth, 208
Basic Mayonnaise, 303
basil
Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil, 292
Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad,
215
Batali, Mario, Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style
recipe, 84
Batter Bind S, Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171
batter-frying, 163–166
batters for
best bets for, 163
textures for, 163
The Colonel’s Fried Chicken, 165
Crispy Halibut Cheek, 165
Fried Pickles, 164
Oyster Beignet, 166
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with
Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164
bay leaves, infusing flavor into liquids from, 27
BBQ Caramels, 231
bean sprouts
Pad Thai, 193
beans. See also specific kinds of beans
acidity of, 278
beef. See also oxtail
Beef and Oyster Tartare, 65
Beef Brisket, 88
in Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121
Beef Short Ribs, 90
Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti, 212
Braised Short Ribs, 90
Brown Beef Stock, 10
cold-smoking, best bets for, 120
Combi Oven Rib Eye, 4
Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad, 108
Crispy Beef Strands, 108
fillet of, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120
Frankfurter, 130
Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules, 60
freeze-drying, 58
in hamburgers, 123
Hanger Steak Tartare, 65
jaccarding, 114
Kalbi Flank Steak, 114
Microwaved Beef Jerky, 108
beef (continued)
Oxtail Pho Broth, 16
Pot-au-Feu Consommé, 45
Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade
and Porcini, 70
short ribs of
hot-smoking, best bets for, 120
Sous Vide Beef Juice, 40
Sous Vide Rare Beef Jus, 40
tartare, best bets for, 64
tenderloin of, curing, best bets for, 103
beef cheeks
Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121
pastrami, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120
beef juice, best bets for, 34–35
beef jus
best bets for, 34–35
rare, best bets for, 34–35
beef stock
aromatics for, best bets for, 8
beef tongue
in Beef Cheek Pastrami, 121
beer
Guinness “Pâte de Fruit,” 265
infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
beeswax, Sea Urchin Bottarga, 111
beets
acidity of, 278
Beet Flexicurd, 296
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119
Beet Meringue, 335
Borscht Broth, 14
139
Sous Vide Baby Beet Salad, 138
beignets
batter for, best bets for, 163
Oyster Beignet, 166
Pork Trotter Beignet, 169
Potato Beignets with Caviar, 283
Zucchini Blossom Beignets, 341
bell peppers
acidity of, 278
Smoked Pepper Puree, 203
Strawberry Gazpacho, 33
Berasategui, Martín, Ling Cod with BergamotInfused Milk recipe, 75
bergamot
Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk, 75
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon, 319
BROTHS
beurre blanc, Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296
biscuits, Buttermilk Biscuits, 336
Black Butter Emulsion, 297
Black Cod, 76
black currants, acidity of, 278
black gram, Crispy Dosa, 181
black olives
Black Olive Puree, 306
Licorice Powder, 52
black pepper, infusing flavor into liquids from,
20
Black Sesame Rice Crisps, 343
black truffles
Black Truffle Concentrate, 57
Boudin Blanc, 131
Cromesquis, 168
Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle
Puree, 250
Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar, 244
Truffle Jus, 212
blackberries
acidity of, 278
Constructed Red Wine Glaze, 24
puree of, best bets for cooking berries for,
144
Sous Vide Berry Juice, 32
blast chiller, roasting chicken in combi oven, 3
blender
Thyme, 113
commercial
Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree, 56
Hazelnut “Cream,” 310
Jus Gras, 310
for making fruit and vegetable purees, 55
Pistachio Puree, 57
hand
Cheesy Whip, 301
Citrus Air, 312
Oysters with Mignonette Air, 313
Pork Loin Roast, 94
immersion
Foie Gras Cherries, 270
Horchata Foam, 316
Parmesan “Polenta,” 288
Parsley Foam, 313
Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel, 286
Razor Clam “Takoyaki,” 171
Tom Yum Broth, 18
blood oranges
Blood Orange Foam, 317
Blood Orange Sabayon, 318
Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 59
blood pudding. See boudin noir
Blood Pudding Custard, 298
blood sausage, best bets for, 128–129
blowtorch
Avocado Puree, 201
Edible Prune Coals, 347
Foie Gras Parfait Spheres, 270
Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown, 122
Pork Ribs, 88
and Porcini, 70
Steamed Blancmange, 335
blueberries
acidity of, 278
Blumenthal, Heston
Aerated Chocolate recipe, 349
Blood Pudding Custard recipe, 298
British banger recipe, 124–125
Citrus Spice recipe, 52
Crispy Halibut Cheek recipe, 165
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour recipe, 332
Edible Wrappers recipe, 230
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel recipe, 289
on gazpacho flavor, 33
Hot and Cold Tea recipe, 286
Lemon Strips recipe, 228
Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin recipe,
284
“Marmite broth” recipe, 14–15
Microwave-Fried Parsley recipe, 157
Mock Turtle Soup recipe, 48
Onion Fluid Gel recipe, 288
Passion Fruit Jelly recipe, 287
Pommes Pont-Neuf recipe, 160
Potato Puree recipe, 151
Salmon Poached in Licorice recipe, 272
Tomato Confit recipe, 179
Boeuf en Gelée, 277
boiling point, vacuum pressure vs., 47
bok choy
Sichuan Bok Choy, 158
Bone Marrow Custard, 276
bonito
Hon Dashi, 15
Veil, 281
Borscht Broth, 14
boudin blanc
Boudin Blanc, 131
chicken, best bets for, 128–129
veal or blend, best bets for, 128–129
boudin noir
Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242
Boudin Noir Custard, 239
Bouillabaisse Broth, 17
Boulud, Daniel, Boeuf en Gelée recipe, 277
Braised Lamb Shoulder, 88
Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash, 155
Braised Sauerkraut, 177
INDEX B
Braised Turnips with Saffron, 140
Braised Veal Foreshank, 89
Branson 8150 ultrasonic bath, 161
Bras, Michel, 208
Licorice Powder recipe, 52
Molasses Butter recipe, 29
Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion recipe,
304
bratwurst, best bets for, 128–129
bread
Corn Bread, 256
Egg Salad Sandwich, 238
Eggs Benedict, 236
Hamburger Bun, 334
Moroccan Batbout Flatbread, 338
Rye Bread, 337
bread crumbs, for breadings, 167
breading, 167–172
adhesives for, 167
breadings for, 167
liquids for, 167
breakfast-style sausage, best bets for, 124–125
brines
best bets for, 101
Juniper Brine, 109
phosphates in, 101
brining
Ankimo Torchon, 97
best bets for, 103
Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli, 5
Fossilized Salsify Branch, 199
Fried Pickles, 164
judging when complete, 101
Lutefisk, 114
Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres, 294
Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster, 60
smoking after, 101
Sous Vide Pork Belly, 88
Sous Vide Salmon, 78
Watermelon Meat, 197
brioche, Boudin Noir Bread Pudding, 242
British banger, best bets for, 124–125
broccoli
acidity of, 278
Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter,
298
bromelain
bronze powder, Frozen White “Truffle,” 198
broths, 14–19
Bacon Dashi, 18
367
B
BROTHS
broths (continued)
Borscht Broth, 14
Cured Ham Broth, 18
Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Leaf, 16
Everything Bagel Broth, 258
freeze-drying, 58
prefreezing temperature for, 59
Goulash Broth, 19
Ham Broth, 16
Hon Dashi, 15
Laksa Broth, 17
Mushroom Broth, 19
Tom Yum Broth, 18
brown butter
Brown Butter Fumet, 26
Brown Veal Stock, 11
Brussels sprouts
acidity of, 278
Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts, 159
bubbles, 314
best bets for, 312
buckwheat pasta dough
best bets for, 191
Buddha’s Hand Vodka, 47
buffering, 23
bulbs, best bets for microwaving, 157
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa, 255
burrata, Modernist Burrata, 247
butter
Black Butter Emulsion, 297
brown. See brown butter
Centrifuged Carotene Butter, 40
chantilly-style foam of, 322
Coffee Butter, 350
Condrieu Butter, 25
Deep-Fried Hollandaise, 305
Hot Butter Foam, 324
Molasses Butter, 29
Oyster Butter Emulsion, 297
Sea Urchin Butter, 297
Shellfish Butter, 29
Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise, 305
Ultrastable Beurre Blanc, 296
Whipped Butter, 329
buttermilk
Buttermilk Biscuits, 336
for farmer’s cheese, 245
Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 59
butternut squash
139
368 butternut squash (continued)
Pickled Butternut Squash, 180
Squash Glaze, 39
button mushrooms
acidity of, 278
Boudin Blanc, 131
Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart, 98
C
cabbage. See also specific kinds of cabbage
Caesar Salad, 189
cakes
Green Tea Cake, 333
Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake, 333
calcium chloride
feta cheese, 247
Ham Consommé with Melon Beads, 211
Hot and Cold Tea, 286
Melon Caviar, 291
mozzarella cheese, 247
for spherification, 290
calcium gluconate
for cold gels, 260
Dill Spheres, 259
Hot Quince Gel, 280
calcium hydroxide, Fossilized Salsify Branch,
199
calcium lactate
Caper Droplets, 293
Compressed Melon Terrine, 196
Gruyère Spheres, 293
Liquid Pimento Olive, 294
“Poached” Egg, 292
Prosciutto and Melon “Raw Egg,” 295
calcium sulfate
Firm Tofu, 248
for tofu, 245
Camembert cheese, chantilly-style foam of,
322
Campden tablets. See sodium metabisulfite
Canadian bacon, Eggs Benedict, 236
Candied Puffed Oats, 345
canning jars
Caramelized Crème Fraîche, 203
Coffee Butter, 350
Eggless Citrus Curd, 307
Garlic Confit, 176
Lamb Garlic Jus in a Jar, 37
Modernist Béchamel recipe, 202
Molasses Butter, 29
Preserved Lemons, 174
cantaloupe
138
Cantonese Fried Rice, 2
CHAWANMUSHI
capers
Caper Droplets, 293
seasoning with, 21
capon broth, best bets for, 14–15
Cappuccino Foam, 315
Caramelized Carrot Soup, 150
Caramelized Coconut Cream, 214
caramels, BBQ Caramels, 231
carbon black powder
Spiced Ash, 206
carbonating fruit, 62–63
carbonating siphon
Carbonated Golden Raisins, 63
Ginger Cola, 311
Orange Soda, 62
Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh
Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63
Carême, Antonin, 241
Carmona, John Paul, Beef Cheek Pastrami
recipe, 121
carrageenan
iota
Chestnut Cream, 328
for cold gels, 260
for constructed cheeses, 299
Crimini in Amber, 271
Cromesquis, 168
for fluid gels, 285
Gruyère Custard, 275
Mac and Cheese, 192
Popcorn Pudding, 287
Whipped Cheese, 317
kappa
Beet Flexicurd, 296
for cold gels, 260
for fluid gels, 285
Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,” 268
lambda
Herbed Cheese Spread, 227
Instant Crème Fraîche, 227
Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding, 202
Low-Fat “Cream,” 226
Modernist Béchamel, 202
Pistachio Gelato, 310
carrageenan, lambda (continued)
for thickening cold liquids, 211
for thickening hot liquids, 210
Tomato Whey Broth, 212
Whipped Cheese, 317
carrots
acidity of, 278
Carrot and Dill Fricassee, 141
139
cooking sous vide with fat, best bets for, 143
Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam, 340
Glazed Carrot, 25
Glazed White Carrot, 139
Nukazake, 175
Root Vegetable Risotto, 156
Carsberg, Scott
Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade recipe,
281
Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar
recipe, 244
cashews
Cashew Halvah, 207
cauliflower
acidity of, 278
Cauliflower Crème Anglaise, 235
Cauliflower Foam, 326
Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 263
caviar
Melon Caviar, 291
cavitation. See ultrasonic bath
celery
acidity of, 278
195
celery root
Celery Root Mousseline, 57
139
Pickled Celery Root, 179
cellulose, microcrystalline
Maple Vinegar Gastrique, 216
in mortadella, 129
Pea Vine Salad, 222
Red-Eye Gravy, 225
INDEX C
cellulose, microcrystalline (continued)
cellulose gels. See methylcellulose; methylcellulose gum gels
cellulose gum
LV
Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry
Marinara, 214
White Grape Syrup, 213
XO Sauce, 213
centrifuging
Yuba and Enoki, 84
Banana Yogurt, 41
Centrifuged Pea Juice, 41
Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, 41
Cinnamon-Scented Pea Juice, 25
extracting citrus essential oil, 47
Goulash Broth, 19
Instant Tofu Noodles, 283
Melon Water, 31
Meyer Lemonade, 31
Orange Soda, 62
Pistachio Consommé, 44
Potato Puree, 148
Salmon Custard, 253
Spring Garlic Consommé, 44
Strawberry Consommé, 32
Tomato Water, 40
century egg
best bets for, 234
Century Egg, 234
ceviche, Fluke Ceviche, 117
Chaat Masala, 50
Champion-style juicer
Corn Custard, 256
Tomato Water, 40
Chang, David
Bacon Dashi recipe, 18
Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts recipe, 159
Kimchi recipe, 175
Shaved Foie Gras recipe, 105
Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca recipe,
328
Chapel, Alain, Pigeon with Shellfish Butter
recipe, 72
chard stems, cooking sous vide until tender,
best bets for, 139
chawanmushi
best bets for, 239
Chawanmushi, 242
369
C
CHEDDAR CHEESE
cheddar cheese
Cheddar Soup, 301
Cheese Puffs, 344
Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder, 53
Mac and Cheese, 192
cheese. See also specific kinds of cheese
Cheese in a Tube, 300
Cheese Puffs, 344
Cheesy Whip, 301
constructed, 299–301
best bets for, 299
seasoning with, 21
slices of, best bets for, 299
cherries
acidity of, 278
138
Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine,
230
Pickled Bing Cherry, 180
and Porcini, 70
chestnuts
Chestnut Confit, 143
Chestnut Cream, 328
Chestnut Puffs, 336
143
chicken. See also poultry
Boudin Blanc, 131
breast of, brining, best bets for, 103
Chicken Tikka Masala, 118
Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 3
Gong Bao Chicken, 119
leg of
brining, best bets for, 103
Low-Fat Chicken Sausage, 136
oysters of, Yakitori, 115
Poulet au Feu d’Enfer, 72
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock, 11
Sauce Vin Jaune, 308
Spiced Shellfish Stock, 9
thighs of, cooking sous vide, best bets for,
82
Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock
Infusion, 10
whole
wings of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82
Yakitori, 115
chicken feet, Puffed Chicken Feet, 95
370 chicken gizzard, cooking sous vide, best bets
for, 96
chicken juice
brown, best bets for, 34–35
chicken skin, Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93
chicken stock, best bets for, 6–7
chickpea flour, Burmese Chickpea Tofu
Laksa, 255
chickpeas
green, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147
Puffed Chickpeas, 344
chili peppers
Chili Pearls, 265
Chili Tomato Spice Blend, 49
chipotle, Spiced Chili Oil, 29
dried, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20,
27
piquillo, freeze-drying, best bets for, 188
Chinese artichokes, cooking sous vide with
fat, best bets for, 143
Chinese banquet stock
Chinese everyday stock
Chinese ginger soy fish broth, best bets for,
14–15
chips, fruit and vegetable
best bets for, 162
dehydrating formulas for, 186
chives, freeze-drying, best bets for, 188
chocolate
Chocolate Chantilly, 322
siphoned soufflé using, 338
chocolate water, best bets for, 42–43
chorizo
Chorizo French Toast, 243
Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo
Powder, 332
Christian Hansen M-EK-4 mold culture, for
fermented sausage, 132
chufa nuts
Horchata (Chufa Milk), 228
Horchata Foam, 316
cider. See apple cider/apple juice
cinnamon
infusing flavor into liquids from, 20, 27
citric acid
Beet Meringue, 335
for cold gels, 260
Dill Spheres, 259
Hot Orange Gel, 279
Hot Quince Gel, 280
citric acid (continued)
for lowering pH, 22
Lychee and Lime Soda, 315
Meyer Lemonade, 31
Pink Grapefruit Confit, 146
for posset, 245
to preserve color and flavor of fresh juice,
31
Sous Vide Lemon Curd, 304
Citrus Air, 312
citrus fruits. See also specific fruits
juice of
for lowering pH, 22
zest of, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20,
27
citrus oil
distilling, 47
extracting mechanically, 47
how to wash, 26
Citrus Spice, 52
clams. See also geoduck clams; razor clams
Clam Juice, 36
Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop
Mochi, 32
Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto, 154
Clay Potatoes, 199
Clove Oil, 25
Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136
coating gels, 269–273
best bets for, 269
temperature, textures, and firmness of, 269
cockles, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79
cock’s kidneys
Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98
cockscombs
Puffed Cockscomb, 94
cocoa
Cocoa Nib Curd, 246
Cocoa Tajarin, 194
19th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry
and Cocoa, 80
cocoa tajarin
Cocoa Tajarin, 194
dough for, best bets for, 191
coconut
fresh, cooking under pressure, best bets for,
149
coconut cream
Coconut Chutney Foam, 325
Coconut-Lobster Emulsion, 319
coconut milk
caramelized, cooking under pressure, best
bets for, 149
CRISP COAT UC
coconut milk (continued)
Steamed Sticky Rice, 152
cod
Black Cod, 76
Miso-Cured Black Cod, 106
salt cod broth and, best bets for, 14–15
skin of, Monkfish with Constructed Skin,
95
Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Velouté, 203
coffee
Coffee Butter, 350
Cognac, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
cola brine, best bets for, 101
cold extraction, of flavors, 350
cold gels, 260–268
textures of, 260
cold-pressing, for making citrus oils, 31
cold-smoking
Frankfurter, 130
of meats, best bets for, 120
Russian Smoked Salmon, 121
Smoked Pork Cheek, 122
Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon,
184
coleslaw
Red Coleslaw, 46
White Coleslaw, 302
colloid mill
for making purees, 55
Pistachio Puree, 57
Romesco Sauce, 54
combi oven
Combi Oven Rib Eye, 4
Combi Oven Roast Chicken, 3
cooking bacon in, 2
cooking eggs in, 2
Ham and Cheese Omelet, 240
Hamburger Bun, 334
Omelet Base, 243
Roast Pigeon Crown, 4
roasting chicken in, 3
Silken Tofu, 246
Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage, 307
toasting spices using, 48
Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178
Compressed Muscat Grapes, 196
compressing produce, 195–199
best bets for, 195
condenser. See rotary evaporator
Condrieu Butter, 25
Confit Cure Mix, 106
Confit Egg-Yolk Puree, 288
Connaughton, Kyle
Fluke Cured in Kombu recipe, 110
Sous Vide Ponzu recipe, 22
consommé, 42–46
clarifying, 43
madrilène, best bets for, 42–43
Oxtail Consommé, 46
Oyster Consommé, 42
constructed cheeses, 299–301
best bets for, 299
constructed creams, 310
convection oven
toasting spices using, 48
conventional oven, Ham and Cheese Omelet,
240
coriander seeds, infusing flavor into liquids
from, 27
corn
on cob
cooking sous vide until tender, best bets
for, 139
Corn Bread, 256
Corn Croquetta, 169
Corn Custard, 256
Corn Foam, 318
Corn Pebbles, 209
Crispy Corn Pudding, 172
dried, Shrimp and Grits, 190
corn starch, thickening with, best bets for, 200
corned beef cure, best bets for, 102
cornmeal batter, best bets for, 163
cottage cheese, fresh, best bets for, 245
crab
Crab Oil, 30
Dashi, 254
Puffed Crab Cracker, 344
Infusion, 10
INDEX C
Cracco, Carlo, Seafood Paper recipe, 113
crackers
Tapioca Starch Cracker, 343
cranberries
acidity of, 278
138
cream. See also creams
Agar Carbonara, 275
Goat Milk Ricotta, 248
Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237
Sauce Allemande, 237
for set foams, 330
Shellfish Custard, 276
cream cheese, Crispy Cream Cheese, 229
cream of wheat, for breadings, 167
Creamed Spinach, 215
Creamed Watercress, 56
creams, 226–228
best bets for, 226
constructed, 310
Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut
Cream, 54
Jus Gras, 310
crème anglaise
best bets for, 235
crème brûlée
best bets for, 235
crème fraîche
Banana Yogurt, 41
Cream, 54
crimini mushrooms
139
Mushroom Broth, 19
Mushroom Jus, 37
Mushroom Ketchup, 217
Crisp Coat UC
Cheese Puffs, 344
Corn Croquetta, 169
for fruit and vegetable chips, 162
Pork Loin Roast, 94
371
C
CRISP COAT UC
Crisp Coat UC (continued)
Water Chestnuts, 73
Restructured Potato Chips, 162
Watermelon Chips, 162
crisps
Rice Crisp, 343
Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333
Crispy Boiled Peanuts, 151
Crispy Cream Cheese, 229
Crispy Dosa, 181
Crispy Duck Tongues, 87
Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding, 205
Crispy Okra, 167
Crispy Sweetbreads, 100
crispy tempura batter, best bets for, 163
Cromesquis, 168
crosnes, cooking sous vide with fat, best bets
for, 143
Cruz, Jordi, Olive Oil Noodles recipe, 266
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour, 332
Crystallized Rose Petals, 187
cucumbers
acidity of, 278
195
Fried Pickles, 164
Nukazake, 175
Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 176
Cured Ham Broth, 18
cured meats, seasoning with, 21
cures
vacuum sealing, 106
wet, best bets for, 102
curing
best bets for, 103
Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises,
105
Fluke Cured in Kombu, 110
Foie Gras Parfait, 104
Foie Gras Torchon, 104
Grapefruit-Cured Salmon, 107
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon, 122
House-Cured Bacon, 107
Miso-Cured Egg Sheets, 236
Water Chestnuts, 73
372 curing (continued)
Salted Halibut, 112
curing salt, for fermented sausage, 132
currants, red
acidity of, 278
for lowering pH, 22
Curry Oil, 30
curry sauces
Goan Curry Sauce, 224
Kerala Curry Sauce, 224
Masala Curry Sauce, 225
Muslim Curry Sauce, 223
custards, 233
chawanmushi
best bets for, 239
Chawanmushi, 242
Corn Custard, 256
Deep-Fried Custard, 255
egg white, best bets for, 235
royale
best bets for, 239
Salmon Custard, 253
Smoked Egg Crème Caramel, 244
textures of, 233
cuttlefish, best bets for cooking, 83
CVap oven
Omelet Base, 243
Silken Tofu, 246
cysteine. See also L-cysteine
D
Dacosta, Quique
Frozen White “Truffle” recipe, 198
Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam recipe,
313
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth recipe,
318
daikon radishes
139
dairy brine, best bets for, 101
dairy emulsions, 296–298
dairy gels, transglutaminase, best bets for,
252–253
dairy products. See also specific dairy products
smoked, 244
best bets for, 244
dashi
Dashi, 254
Dashimaki Tamago, 241
dates
Date Puree, 145
pitted, best bets for cooking for puree, 144
deep-frying
with batter. See batter-frying
of breaded foods, 167
Chestnut Puffs, 336
Corn Croquetta, 169
Crab Oil, 30
Crispy Okra, 167
Cromesquis, 168
Fried Green Tomatoes, 168
of fruit and vegetable chips, 162
naked, 159–161
best bets for, 159
Onion Rings, 170
Pectinase-Steeped Fries, 160
Mochi, 32
Pork Loin Roast, 94
Pressure-Cooked Carnitas, 92
Puffed Chicken Feet, 95
DUNLOP, FUCHSIA
deep-frying (continued)
puffing skin on a pork roast, 93
Water Chestnuts, 73
Rice Crisp, 343
Scallop Mochi, 345
Starch-Infused Fries, 161
Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries, 161
Toasted Garlic Chips, 159
Ultrasonic Fries, 161
Degeimbre, Sang-Hoon, Lychee and Lime
Soda recipe, 315
dehydrating. See also drying
Bacon Chip, 104
Thyme, 113
Beet Meringue, 335
Cheese Puffs, 344
Citrus Spice, 52
of fruits and vegetables, 185–187
best bets for, 185
formulas for, 186
Garlic Nougatine, 185
Green Pea Wafer, 186
Licorice Powder, 52
Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin, 284
Mandarin Leather, 187
without a microwave, 108
by microwaving, 157
Onion Rings, 170
Powder, 332
Pineapple Glass, 187
of puffed snacks, 342
puffing skin on a pork roast and, 93
Rice Crisp, 343
Scallop Mochi, 345
Seafood Paper, 113
Spinach Paper, 187
of vegetable purees using microwave, best
bets for, 157
deionized water, Lemon Strips, 228
delicata squash, cooking sous vide until
delta decalactone, Whipped Butter, 329
depositing funnel, Mock Turtle Soup, 48
Deviled Eggs, 233
Dewar flask, Cryopoached Green Tea Sour,
332
dextrose
DE 36, Spray-Dried Buttermilk, 59
in fermented sausage, 133
Frankfurter, 130
in frankfurters, 129
Saucisson Sec, 134
diglycerides. See mono- and diglycerides
dill
Dill Spheres, 259
disodium phosphate, for constructed cheeses,
299
Douglas fir buds, Grapefruit-Cured Salmon,
107
DQ Curing Salt, Blackstrap Molasses Country
Ham, 110
dragon fruit, compressing/impregnating, best
bets for, 195
D-ribose powder, Beef Tenderloin with Jus de
Roti, 212
Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine, 230
droplet maker, Melon Caviar, 291
dry ice
for carbonating fruit, 62
Strawberry Milk Shake, 62
dry rubs
best bets for, 102
Kansas Rub, 49
Memphis Rub, 49
sweet, best bets for, 102
using, 49
drying. See also air-drying; dehydrating;
freeze-drying; spray-drying; vacuum-drying
of fermented sausage, 132, 133
Tomato Confit, 179
Ducasse, Alain
Asparagus Royale recipe, 241
Jus de la Presse recipe, 34
and Porcini recipe, 70
duck. See also poultry
breast of
curing, best bets for, 103
105
leg of
INDEX D
duck (continued)
duck eggs
Century Egg, 234
Liquid Center Duck Egg, 232
duck foie gras. See foie gras
duck stock, best bets for, 6–7
duck tongue
cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82, 96
Dufresne, Wylie
Aerated Foie Gras recipe, 348
Almond Polenta recipe, 207
Avocado Puree recipe, 201
Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel
recipe, 327
Cheese Puffs recipe, 344
Corn Pebbles recipe, 209
Crispy Cream Cheese recipe, 229
Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding recipe,
205
Deep-Fried Hollandaise recipe, 305
Dashi recipe, 254
Edible Earth recipe, 208
Egg Salad Sandwich recipe, 238
Eggs Benedict recipe, 238
Fermented Shrimp Sheets recipe, 134
Gruyère Spheres recipe, 293
Hanger Steak Tartare recipe, 65
Horseradish Foam recipe, 327
Instant Tofu Noodles recipe, 283
Knot Foie recipe, 264
Popcorn Pudding recipe, 287
Sous Vide Duck Ham recipe, 109
Sunny-Side Up “Eggs” recipe, 268
dumplings, Goat Cheese Dumplings, 246
Dunlop, Fuchsia, Gong Bao Chicken recipe,
119
373
E
E
EAST TEXAS BARBECUE SAUCE
East Texas Barbecue Sauce, 221
Dashi, 254
Edible Earth, 208
edible films, 229–231
best bets for, 229
Edible Wrappers, 230
eel
egg emulsions, 302–305
egg gels
blended, 239–243
best bets for, 239
separated, 235–238
best bets for, 235
transglutaminase, best bets for, 252–253
egg white foam, as liquid for breading, 167
egg whites
custards made with, best bets for, 235
droplets of, best bets for, 235
Eggs Benedict, 236
French Scrambled Eggs, 240
Fried Egg Foam, 326
Instant Swiss Meringue, 323
for set foams, 330
egg yolks
batter made with, best bets for, 163
298
custards made with, textures of, 233
droplets of, best bets for, 235
Eggs Benedict, 236
for fluid gels, 285
Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel, 287
as liquid for breading, 167
Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast, 241
for set foams, 330
3 74 egg yolks (continued)
sliceable, best bets for, 235
temperature for setting of, 233
eggplant
acidity of, 278
195
Eggplant Foam, 324
eggs, whole, 232–233. See also duck eggs;
quail eggs
Arzak egg blossom, best bets for, 232
baked, two-stage, best bets for, 235
Chawanmushi, 242
custards made with, textures of, 233
Deviled Eggs, 233
Egg Blossom, 232
for fluid gels, 285
freeze-drying, 58
fried, Nathan’s two-stage, best bets for, 235
hot-spring, fast, best bets for, 232
Omelet Base, 243
onsen, best bets for, 232
pasteurized, best bets for, 232
Pâte à Choux, 341
poached, 240
preserved and pickled, 234
best bets for, 234
scrambled, American, best bets for, 239
scrambled, French
best bets for, 239
Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303
smoked, 244
best bets for, 244
soft-boiled, best bets for, 232
Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion, 304
Elder Flower Vinegar, 23
elderberries, acidity of, 278
electric mixer. See also stand mixer
Pork Loin Roast, 94
Whipped Butter, 329
electric whisk. See whisk, electric
Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel, 136
emulsions, 302–309
dairy, 296–298
egg, 302–305
endive, Belgian, cooking sous vide until
enoki mushrooms
Yuba and Enoki, 84
139
enzyme clarification, Tomato Water, 40
Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit, 182
Escoffier, Auguste, Sauce Allemande recipe,
237
escolar
Escolar with Red Wine Butter, 75
espresso machine steam wand, CoconutLobster Emulsion, 319
essential oil, to preserve color and flavor of
fresh juice, 31
ethanol. See alcohol (ethanol); specific alcoholic
beverages
evaporator. See rotary evaporator
Everclear, for washing citrus oil, 26
Exotic Spice Mixture, 53
extracting flavor
with alcohol, 26–27
best bets for, 27
Fines Herbs Extract, 27
Hazelnut Oil Extract, 26
House Bitters, 27
cold extraction for, 350
extracts, best bets for, 27
F
farce royale
Farce Royale, 126
farmer’s cheese, best bets for, 245
fats. See butter; infusing flavors, into fats; oils;
specific fats and oils
fava beans
Fresh Bean Salad, 141
fennel bulbs
acidity of, 278
139
Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad,
77
fennel seeds, infusing flavor into liquids from,
27
fermenting. See also sausages, fermented
Crispy Dosa, 181
fermentation methods for, 133
fermented pickles formula and, 173
Hamburger Bun, 334
Kimchi, 175
Rye Bread, 337
Saucisson Sec, 134
sous vide, 133
Fermento, House-Cured Bacon, 107
feta cheese, how to make, 247
fiddlehead ferns, Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns,
160
figs
acidity of, 278
195
Pickled Figs, 177
filtering. See freeze filtering; vacuum filtering;
wine filter
fir tree buds
about, 107
Firm Tofu, 248
fish. See also seafood; specific kinds of fish
cooking sous vide, 74–78
best bets for, 74
fillets
Sous Vide Fish Stock, 12
white, Seafood Paper, 113
fish roe. See also caviar
fish sauce, seasoning with, 21
Fish Spice Mix, 51
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES
fish stock
fish tank bubblers. See aquarium bubblers
Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel, 289
flans, savory, best bets for, 239
flashing. See blowtorch
flavor
best bets for adding with alcohol, 24
extracting with alcohol, 26–27
infusing. See infusing flavors
Flojel 60, thickening with, best bets for, 201
flour
almond, Edible Earth, 208
chickpea, Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa,
255
rice, for pasta dough, best bets for, 191
for set foams, 330
White Lily brand, 336
flower petals
dried, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Hibiscus Glaze, 272
fluid gels, 285–289
best bets for, 285
quick-setting, 285
temperature and viscosity of, 285
fluke
Fluke Ceviche, 117
FMC Biopolymer, Pea Vine Salad, 222
foams, 312–341. See also puffed snacks
best bets for, 312
light, 316–321
best bets for, 316
set, 330–341
thick, 322–329
vacuum-set, 347–350
foie gras
Yuba and Enoki, 84
chantilly-style foam of, 322
in Chorizo French Toast, 243
Cromesquis, 168
Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache, 109
Lettuce, 99
raw, cold-smoking, best bets for, 120
Sous Vide Foie Gras, 96
torchon
INDEX F
foie gras, torchon (continued)
Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and
Hibiscus Glaze, 272
Knot Foie, 264
Shaved Foie Gras, 105
water- vs. milk-soaking, 97
fondants
Salsify Fondant, 143
Sweet Potato Fondant, 144
fondue, best bets for, 299
food processor
Edible Earth, 208
Fish Spice Mix, 51
Halibut Brandade, 112
Laksa Broth, 17
Mock Turtle Soup, 48
Razor Clam with Sauce Verte, 85
Salmon Poached in Licorice, 272
Seafood Paper, 113
Soy Milk, 227
frankfurters
beef, best bets for, 128–129
beef and pork, best bets for, 128–129
Frankfurter, 130
freeze-drying, 58, 59–61
best bets for, 58
Caesar Salad, 189
Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 189
Onion Sablé, 188
prefreezing temperatures for, 59
of produce, 188–190
best bets for, 188
Ramen Stock Powder, 61
Ramen Vegetables, 61
Seared Strawberry, 189
freeze filtering, Mock Turtle Soup, 48
freezing. See Pacojet
French toast, Chorizo French Toast, 243
squeaky, 247
Fried Egg Foam, 326
375
F
FRIED PICKLES
Fried Pickles, 164
frittatas, best bets for, 239
frother, handheld. See whipping wand,
handheld
froths, best bets for, 312
Frozen Crème-Fraîche and Pine-Nut Cream,
54
Frozen White “Truffle,” 198
fructose
Hot Banana Gel, 280
Melon Water, 31
Meyer Lemonade, 31
Orange Soda, 62
Marinara, 214
Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade, 181
fruits. See also citrus fruits; specific fruits
acid concentrations of, 23
acidities of, 278
carbonating, 62–63
compressed and impregnated, 195–199
best bets for, 195
cooking sous vide in sugar syrup until
tender, 146
best bets for, 146
138
dehydrating, 185–187
best bets for, 185
formulas for, 186
fruits and vegetables, best bets for, 185
best bets for, 188
heat-treated, best bets for, 183
for lowering pH, 22
purees of, cooking sous vide for making,
144–145
best bets for, 144
funnel. See depositing funnel; separatory
funnel
376 G
Gagnaire, Pierre, Green Olive Meringue
recipe, 339
game broth, best bets for, 14–15
game stock, aromatics for, best bets for, 8
garlic
Garlic Confit, 176
Green Garlic and Pork Sausage, 127
Pickled Garlic, 174
puree of, best bets for cooking garlic for,
144
seasoning with, 21
Toulousain Garlic Sausage, 126
garum, Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 204
gelatin
160 Bloom
Blood Orange Foam, 317
Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier
Butter, 298
for cold gels, 260
Corn Croquetta, 169
Corn Foam, 318
for crisp edible gels, 229
Cromesquis, 168
Dashi, 254
Farce Royale, 126
for fluid gels, 285
Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze, 272
Fried Egg Foam, 326
Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321
Ham Broth, 16
Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 262
gelatin, 160 Bloom (continued)
Monkfish with Constructed Skin, 95
Passion Fruit Jelly, 287
Powder, 332
Veil, 281
Ponzu, 266
for set foams, 330
Shiitake Marmalade, 216
Shrimp Cocktail, 80
Soy Sauce Cloud, 339
Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips,
329
300 Bloom
Chestnut Puffs, 336
200 Bloom, Edible Wrappers, 230
240 Bloom, Halibut in Verbena Bubble, 273
gelatin gels, transglutaminase, best bets for,
252–253
gelato, Pistachio Gelato, 310
gellan
high-acyl
Beet Flexicurd, 296
for cold gels, 260
Firm Tofu, 248
Halibut Cheek Gel Base, 270
for hot gels, 274
Hot Quince Gel, 280
Madeira Gelée, 264
low-acyl
Dill Spheres, 259
Firm Tofu, 248
GUINNESS “PÂTE DE FRUIT”
gellan, low-acyl (continued)
for fluid gels, 285
for hot gels, 274
Hot Quince Gel, 280
Madeira Gelée, 264
Onion Fluid Gel, 288
Squid-Ink Fluid Gel, 259
Suet Mousseline, 325
gels. See coating gels; cold gels; egg gels; fluid
gels; gelatin gels; hot gels; methylcellulose
gum gels; starch gels; transglutaminase gels
geoduck clams
Geoduck with Seawater Foam, 314
geosmin, 286
gin, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
ginger
Ginger Cola, 311
Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade, 116
glasses, produce dehydrating formulas for, 186
Glazed Pearl Onion, 140
glazes
Banyuls Glaze, 38
Glazed Carrot, 25
Glazed Oxtail, 90
Squash Glaze, 39
Glice. See mono- and diglycerides
glucono delta-lactone
Cocoa Nib Curd, 246
Silken Tofu, 246
for tofu, 245
glucose
glucose syrup DE 40
Bacon Chip, 104
BBQ Caramels, 231
Cream, 54
glucose syrup DE 40 (continued)
Mozzarella Powder, 53
Olive Oil Gummy Worms, 267
Onion Arlette, 231
Pistachio Puree, 57
Scallop Mochi, 345
for set foams, 330
Sour Rhubarb Sorbet, 54
glycerin
Edible Wrappers, 230
Lemon Strips, 228
glycerin monostearate
Frankfurter, 130
gnocchi
Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258
Goan Curry Sauce, 224
goat cheese
Goat Cheese Dumplings, 246
goat milk, Goat Milk Ricotta, 248
gold leaf sheets, Mock Turtle Soup, 48
gold powder, Frozen White “Truffle,” 198
goose. See also poultry
gooseberries
acidity of, 278
for lowering pH, 22
Gouda cheese
Mac and Cheese, 192
Goulash Broth, 19
grains. See also specific grains
freeze-drying, prefreezing temperature for,
59
granita, Passion Fruit Granita, 50
grapefruit. See also citrus fruits
acidity of, 278
for lowering pH, 22
grapes
acidity of, 278
195
138
INDEX G
grapes (continued)
gravy
Red-Eye Gravy, 225
Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy, 204
Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus
Jus, 33
green beans
green cabbage, in Sauerkraut, 177
Green Mango and Cashew Salad, 223
green olives
Olive Marmalade, 243
Green Papaya Pickle, 180
Green Pea Yuba, 249
greengage, acidity of, 278
greens. See also specific greens
leafy, best bets for microwaving, 157
tender, freeze-drying, 58
grilling
barbecuing vs., 49
Smoked Octopus, 123
Sous Vide Octopus, 85
Yakitori, 115
grouse, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71
Gruyère cheese
Cheesy Whip, 301
in Siphoned Soufflé à la Lorraine, 338
Whipped Cheese, 317
guar gum
Cream, 54
for hot gels, 274
guava, acidity of, 278
guinea hen. See also poultry
leg of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 82
Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 83
377
G
GUM ARABIC
gum arabic
Ginger Cola, 311
Meyer Lemonade, 31
Orange Soda, 62
gum tragacanth
gummy worms, Olive Oil Gummy Worms,
267
gums. See specific kinds of gums
378 H
hake, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
halibut
Lutefisk, 114
Salted Halibut, 112
halibut cheeks
ham. See also jamón Ibérico; prosciutto
Cured Ham Broth, 18
fresh, best bets for cooking, 86
ham and cheese sausage, best bets for, 128–129
ham broth
Cured Ham Broth, 18
Ham Broth, 16
hamachi, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
Hamburger Bun, 334
hamburgers
best bets for, 123
grinding meat for, 123
hanging. See air-drying
hazelnut oil
hazelnuts
Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil, 41
hearts of palm, cooking sous vide until tender,
best bets for, 139
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes, 205
heat-treated fruit, best bets for, 183
herbs. See also specific herbs
frying by microwaving, best bets for, 157
Herb-Embedded Pasta Veil, 191
hibiscus flowers, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet
and Hibiscus Glaze, 272
high-acyl gellan. See gellan, high-acyl
high-methoxyl (HM) pectin. See pectin, highmethoxyl
Hokkaido squash
139
puree of, best bets for cooking squash for,
144
hollandaise sauce
hominy, Shrimp and Grits, 190
homogenizer. See rotor-stator homogenizer
Hon Dashi, 15
honey
31
Saffron Honey Foam, 314
Spiced Honey Glass, 230
honeycomb tripe, cooking sous vide, best bets
for, 96
honeydew melons, Compressed Melon
Terrine, 196
honshimeji mushrooms, Compressed
Dill-Pickled Vegetables, 178
Horchata Foam, 316
Horseradish Foam, 327
Hot Banana Gel, 280
Hot Egg Mayonnaise, 303
hot gels, 274–281
best bets for, 274
fruit, best bets for, 279
fruit and vegetable, 278–281
textures of, 274
hot liquids, thickening, best bets for, 210
Hot Orange Gel, 279
Hot Quince Gel, 280
hot-smoking
best bets for, 120
Frankfurter, 130
Smoked Potato Confit, 184
House Bitters, 27
Humm, Daniel, Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise
recipe, 305
I
ice cream
freeze-drying, 58
overrun in, 349
ice-water bath
Deviled Eggs, 233
Farce Royale, 126
Green Tea Cake, 333
Oyster Escabeche, 81
Potato Salad, 140
Red Wine Cabbage, 147
Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion, 138
Sous Vide Lentils, 142
Sous Vide Mussel Juice, 37
Sous Vide Mussels, 79
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon, 319
Steamed Live Spot Prawn, 81
Thickened Oil, 306
Tomato Confit, 179
Idiazábal cheese
Veil, 281
immersion blender. See blender, immersion
impregnating produce, 195–199
best bets for, 195
Indies Spice Blend, 48
infusing flavors
into fats, 28–30
best bets for, 28
infusing flavors (continued)
into liquids, 20–26, 151
with alcohol, 26
best bets for, 20
innards. See offal; specific organ meats
Insta Cure No. 1
in basic pink brine, 101
in basic sweet cure, 102
in basic wet cure, 102
in corned beef cure, 102
Farce Royale, 126
Frankfurter, 130
in mortadella, 129
in pink salt rub, 102
Insta Cure No. 2
Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,”
111
Saucisson Sec, 134
Invincible Vinaigrette, 306
iota carrageenan. See carrageenan, iota
isomalt
Bacon Chip, 104
Bacon Jam, 304
Beet Flexicurd, 296
Beet Meringue, 335
Corn Bread, 256
230
Cream, 54
Green Tea Cake, 333
Onion Arlette, 231
Onion Sablé, 188
for set foams, 330
Italian sausage
Italian Sausage, 130
sweet, best bets for, 124–125
Iuzzini, Johnny
Beet Flexicurd recipe, 296
Green Tea Cake recipe, 333
INDEX J
JUS
J
jaccarding, 114, 118
jalapeño chips using, best bets for, 162
jam, Bacon Jam, 304
Jamón Ibérico, Ham Broth, 16
Japanese flavor combinations, 23
Japanese rotary slicer, Yogurt Foam and Sweet
Potato Chips, 329
Japanese stock
jasmine essential oil, Apricot and Jasmine
Puree, 217
Jerusalem artichokes
139
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes, 178
jicama, acidity of, 278
John Dory, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
juice. See also specific fruits and vegetables
additives to preserve color and flavor of, 31
juicer, Champion-style. See Champion-style
juicer
juniper berries
Juniper Brine, 109
jus, 34–41
Clam Juice, 36
Jus de la Presse, 34
Jus Gras, 310
Mushroom Jus, 37
Root Vegetable Jus, 36
Sous Vide Prawn Jus, 39
Sous Vide Vegetable Jus, 36
Tagine Base, 39
Toasted Oat Jus, 38
379
K
K
KABOCHA SQUASH
kabocha squash
139
143
144
Kamozawa, Aki
Aerated Gruyère recipe, 348
Compressed Melon Terrine recipe, 196
fast hot-spring egg recipe, 232
Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe, 246
Pasta Marinara recipe, 193
Pulled Mushroom recipe, 197
Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe, 333
Kansas City Barbecue Sauce, 220
Kansas Rub, 49
kaolin clay
Clay Potatoes, 199
Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads, 99
Spiced Ash, 206
kappa carrageenan. See carrageenan, kappa
Keller, Thomas
Cauliflower Panna Cotta recipe, 263, 276
Curry Oil recipe, 30
Salmon Tartare Cornets recipe, 67
Tomato Powder recipe, 157
Kentucky Barbecue Sauce, 219
Kerala Curry Sauce, 224
ketchup, Mushroom Ketchup, 217
kidneys
cock. See cock’s kidneys
mammal, cooking sous vide, best bets for,
96
soaking step for cooking, 97
kielbasa, best bets for, 124–125
kimchi
Kimchi, 175
Kinch, David
on aging of turbot or sole, 76
Beef and Oyster Tartare recipe, 65
Beef Cheek Pastrami recipe, 121
Corn Croquetta recipe, 169
Corn Custard recipe, 256
Corn Pudding recipe, 256
Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth
recipe, 76
king trumpet mushrooms, Pulled Mushroom,
197
kiwi
acidity of, 278
195
kminkowa, best bets for, 124–125
Knot Foie, 264
380 kohlrabi
139
puree of, best bets for cooking kohlrabi for,
144
Koji-Aji
konjac gum
Chestnut Cream, 328
Knot Foie, 264
Mushroom Jus, 37
in rice flour pasta, 191
Truffle Jus, 212
kudzu root starch
Peanut “Tofu,” 257
thickening with, best bets for, 200
kumquats. See also citrus fruits
kuri squash
139
144
kuzu root starch. See kudzu root starch
L
lactic acid
Crispy Dosa, 181
for lowering pH, 22
for paneer, 245
for ricotta cheese, 245
Watermelon Rind Kimchi, 175
Whipped Butter, 329
lactose, Clay Potatoes, 199
Laiskonis, Michael, Chili Pearls recipe, 265
Laksa Broth, 17
lamb
Rack of Lamb, 68
shank of, best bets for cooking, 86
shoulder of, best bets for cooking, 86
lamb stock
lamb sweetbreads, cooking sous vide, best
bets for, 96
lambda carrageenan. See carrageenan, lambda
langoustines. See also prawns
lap cheong, best bets for, 132–133
L-cysteine, Hamburger Bun, 334
leathers, dehydrating formulas for, 186
lecithin. See soy lecithin
leeks
acidity of, 278
139
Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal
Breast with Bulbous Vegetables, 91
legumes. See also specific legumes
59
lemon verbena
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth, 318
lemongrass, infusing flavor into liquids from,
20
lemons. See also citrus fruits
acidity of, 278
Citrus Air, 312
Citrus Spice, 52
Fluke Ceviche, 117
lemons (continued)
Lemon Strips, 228
for lowering pH, 22
Meyer Lemonade, 31
Pickled Lemon, 179
for set foams, 330
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil, 29
zest of, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20
lentils
lettuce
acidity of, 278
195
freeze-drying, 58
best bets for, 188
Smoked Lettuce, 195
licorice
Licorice Powder, 52
Liebrandt, Paul, Foie Gras Torchon with Beet
and Hibiscus Glaze recipe, 272
limes. See also citrus fruits
acidity of, 278
Citrus Air, 312
Citrus Spice, 52
Fluke Ceviche, 117
for lowering pH, 22
liquid nitrogen
to adhere coating gels, 269
Buttermilk Biscuits, 336
Dill Spheres, 259
Glaze, 272
Pork Loin Roast, 94
liquid smoke
BBQ Caramels, 231
Smoked Lettuce, 195
liquids
cold, thickening, best bets for, 211
hot, thickening, best bets for, 210
infusing flavors into. See infusing flavors,
into liquids
LM pectin. See pectin, low-methoxyl
lobster
freeze-drying, 58
Jus de la Presse, 34
and Cocoa, 80
Poached Lobster, 296
Poached Lobster Tail, 81
tail, brining, best bets for, 103
lobster mushrooms
139
Lobster Mushroom Confit, 144
locust bean gum
Agar Carbonara, 275
Chili Pearls, 265
for cold gels, 260
Hot Banana Gel, 280
for hot gels, 274
Hot Orange Gel, 279
Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot, 262
lotus root
low-acyl gellan. See gellan, low-acyl
low-methoxyl pectin. See pectin, lowmethoxyl
Lutefisk, 114
lychees
acidity of, 278
lye. See sodium hydroxide
INDEX M
MANGOES
M
Mac and Cheese, 192
mackerel
Madeira wine
Madeira Gelée, 264
Maillard reaction, 119
acceleration by baking soda, 203
Malaysian Aromatic Oil, 30
malic acid
Beet Flexicurd, 296
Hot Quince Gel, 280
for lowering pH, 22
Passion Fruit–White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette,
23
31
malt syrup, Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura with Smoked White Soy Sauce, 164
malt vinegar, Malt Vinegar Powder, 206
maltodextrin
DE 8, Lemon Strips, 228
DE 9, Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice, 59
DE 19, Creamed Watercress, 56
Maltrin M100
for set foams, 330
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon,
319
Whipped Cheese, 317
mangoes
acidity of, 278
138
381
M
MANGOES
mangoes (continued)
puree of, best bets for cooking mangoes for,
144
mannitol, Frozen White “Truffle,” 198
Manson, Sam, simulation of nature in dishes
of, 208
Marchesi, Gualtiero, Risotto Milanese recipe,
153
Marinated Spaghetti Squash, 26
marinating
baking soda technique for, 119
pH level of marinade for, 114
pressure-, Yakitori, 115
vacuum tumbling to reduce time required
for, 114
marmalades
and Porcini, 70
Marmite, seasoning with, 21
“Marmite broth,” best bets for, 14–15
Masala Curry Sauce, 225
Mason jars. See canning jars
Matsuhisa, Nobu, Miso-Cured Black Cod
recipe, 106
Maximin, Jacques, Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil
Puree recipe, 56
mayonnaise
McGee, Harold, Mac and Cheese recipe, 192
meat slicer
meats. See also specific kinds of meat
59
organ. See offal; specific organ meats
tender, cooking sous vide, 68–70
best bets for, 68
tough cuts of, 86–92
pressure-cooking, 91–92
Melon Caviar, 291
melons. See also specific kinds of melons
acidity of, 278
195
Melon Caviar, 291
Melon Water, 31
Memphis Barbecue Sauce, 221
Memphis Rub, 49
382 Meneau, Marc, Cromesquis recipe, 168
merguez, best bets for, 124–125
meringues
Beet Meringue, 335
mesophilic starter, Fresh Cheese Curds, 247
Methocel. See methylcellulose
methylcellulose
A15C
for methylcellulose gels, 282
Onion Rings, 170
E4M
Corn Croquetta, 169
Pork Loin Roast, 94
Sweet Pea Clusters, 284
F50
Milk Foam, 317
for set foams, 330
F450, for methylcellulose gels, 282
K100, Whipped Yogurt Crisps, 333
K100M
K700M
SGA 150
for cornmeal batter, 163
Pâte à Choux, 341
SGA 7C
Green Tea Cake, 333
methylcellulose gum gels, 282–284
best bets for, 282
properties and applications of, 282
Meyer Lemonade, 31
microwaving
dehydrating by, 157
films for, 157
Green Tea Cake, 333
Knot Foie, 264
microwaving (continued)
Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and
Ginger, 92
Microwave-Fried Parsley, 157
Parmesan Nuggets, 206
of puffed snacks, 342
Scallop Mochi, 345
Tomato Powder, 157
of vegetables, 157–158
best bets for, 157
milk. See also milks
goat, Goat Milk Ricotta, 248
Milk Foam, 317
Puree, 250
in Parmesan Crème Brûlée, 237
Stable Latte Foam, 350
milk curd, basic, best bets for, 245
milk frother, handheld. See whipping wand,
handheld
milk shake whipper, Cappuccino Foam, 315
milks, 226–228
best bets for, 226
Soy Milk, 227
Toasted Rice Milk, 228
milling. See also colloid mill
of nut butters, 54
mint, freeze-drying, best bets for, 188
mirin, Sous Vide Ponzu, 22
miso
eggs cured with, best bets for, 234
seasoning with, 21
mochi
Mochi, 32
Scallop Mochi, 345
molasses
Molasses Butter, 29
monkfish
Sous Vide Monkfish Pavé, 77
monkfish liver, Ankimo Torchon, 97
mono- and diglycerides
298
Thickened Oil, 306
monosodium glutamate
seasoning with, 21
Monterey Jack cheese, Cheese in a Tube, 300
morels, Green Asparagus and Morels with
Asparagus Jus, 33
Moroccan Batbout Flatbread, 338
mortadella, best bets for, 128–129
Morton Tender Quick, in slow-curing rub,
102
mousseline, Celery Root Mousseline, 57
mozzarella cheese
fresh, how to make, 247
Mozzarella Balloons, 249
Mugaritz. See also Aduriz, Andoni Luis
Vegetable Coals recipe, 197
mulberries, acidity of, 278
mung bean puffed snacks, best bets for, 342
Murata, Yoshihiro
Hon Dashi recipe, 15
Peanut “Tofu” recipe, 257
Ponzu recipe, 266
Mushroom Broth, 19
mushroom jus
Mushroom Jus, 37
mushrooms. See also specific kinds of
mushrooms
acidity of, 278
139
dried
best bets for cooking for puree, 144
fresh, best bets for cooking for puree, 144
musk ox tartare, best bets for, 64
Muslim Curry Sauce, 223
mussel jus, best bets for, 34–35
mussels
mustard
Mustard Vinaigrette, 308
and Porcini, 70
mustard oil, Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil,
173
mustard seeds
pressure-cooking, 151
Mycryo spray-dried cocoa butter, Aerated
Chocolate, 349
myoga, Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop
Mochi, 32
INDEX N
N-ZORBIT M
N
naked frying, 159–161
best bets for, 159
nanoemulsions, 311
napa cabbage
acidity of, 278
Kimchi, 175
natto, seasoning with, 21
navy beans, Baked Beans, 149
nectarines
acidity of, 278
138
nettles, purees of, best bets for cooking nettles
for, 144
nigari granules, for tofu, 245
19th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry and
Cocoa, 80
noodles. See also pasta
freeze-drying, 58
Norén, Nils
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters recipe, 119
Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil recipe,
41
Parmesan “Polenta” recipe, 288
Pectinase-Steeped Fries recipe, 160
Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast recipe, 241
North Carolina (Eastern Region) Barbecue
Sauce, 221
North Carolina (Lexington-Style) Barbecue
Sauce, 219
Novation Prima 600, thickening with, best
bets for, 201
NovoShape PME enzyme, Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles, 176
Nukazake, 175
nut butters
milling, 54
for set foams, 330
nutmeg, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20,
27
Nutrifos 088
Farce Royale, 126
Salmon Custard, 253
nuts. See also specific kinds of nuts
pressure-cooking
best bets for, 149
to soften, 222
N-Zorbit M
Almond Polenta, 207
Bacon Powder Squares, 206
Caesar Salad, 189
Cashew Halvah, 207
Cheese Puffs, 344
Corn Pebbles, 209
383
N
N-ZORBIT M
N-Zorbit M (continued)
Edible Earth, 208
Licorice Powder, 52
Malt Vinegar Powder, 206
Powder, 332
Pistachio Puree, 57
Spiced Ash, 206
Spinach Paper, 187
Vanilla Olive Oil Powder, 207
384 O
oats
puffed, Candied Puffed Oats, 345
rolled, for breadings, 167
steel-cut
cooking under pressure, best bets for,
149
Toasted Oat Jus, 38
octopus
Smoked Octopus, 123
offal. See also specific organ meats
tender, cooking sous vide, best bets for,
96
tough, cooking sous vide, best bets for,
96
oils, flavored. See also citrus oil
Clove Oil, 25
Crab Oil, 30
Curry Oil, 30
Spiced Chili Oil, 29
okra
Crispy Okra, 167
olive oil
Olive Oil Spread, 213
Thickened Oil, 306
olives. See also black olives; green olives
omelets
best bets for, 239
Omelet Base, 243
160 Bloom gelatin. See gelatin, 160 Bloom
onions
cipolline
for, 139
Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion, 141
195
Freeze-Dried Onion Powder, 189
Onion Arlette, 231
Onion Rings, 170
Onion Sablé, 188
Onion Stock, 11
onions (continued)
pearl
for, 139
pressure-cooking with, 150
puree of
best bets for, 55
best bets for cooking onions for, 144
red, acidity of, 278
soup made from, cooking under pressure,
best bets for, 149
Squash Glaze, 39
sweet
acidity of, 278
for, 139
“OpenCola,” 311
oranges. See also blood oranges; citrus fruits
acidity of, 278
Citrus Spice, 52
Hot Orange Gel, 279
for lowering pH, 22
Orange Soda, 62
organ meats. See also offal; specific organ meats
ostrich, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71
oven-frying, Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli,
5
ovens. See specific kinds of ovens
overrun, in ice cream, 349
oxalic acid, to preserve color and flavor of
fresh juice, 31
oxtail
Glazed Oxtail, 90
oysters
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119
Oyster Beignet, 166
Oyster Butter Emulsion, 297
Oysters with Cava Foam, 327
P
Pacojet
Cream, 54
for grinding frozen liquid before freeze
drying, 59
for making vegetable purees, 55
Pacojet Pea Soup, 53
Passion Fruit Granita, 50
Pistachio Puree, 57
Seafood Paper, 113
Pad Thai, 193
Paella Rice, 153
Paella Stock, 9
Pain d’Épices Powder, 51
paneer, best bets for, 245
panna cotta, Cauliflower Panna Cotta, 263
papayas
acidity of, 278
papers, dehydrating formulas for making, 186
paprika, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20
parcooking, of puffed snacks, 342
Parmesan cheese
Parmesan water, best bets for, 42–43
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Agar
Carbonara, 275
parsley
Microwave-Fried Parsley, 157
Parsley Foam, 313
parsnips
acidity of, 278
Passard, Alain
Scallop Tartare recipe, 66
Smoked Potatoes with Vin Jaune Sabayon
recipe, 184
passion fruit
acidity of, 278
Passion Fruit Granita, 50
Passion Fruit Jelly, 287
PHO BROTH
passion fruit (continued)
Powder, 332
23
pasta, 191–195
Cocoa Tajarin, 194
doughs for, best bets for, 191
59
fresh, smoked, best bets for, 183
Mac and Cheese, 192
Pad Thai, 193
Pasta Marinara, 193
Ramen Noodles, 194
Semolina Pasta, 195
wheat, dried, best bets for, 342
pasta machine, Scallop Mochi, 345
pastis, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
pastrami
beef cheek, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120
brisket, hot-smoking, best bets for, 120
meat cuts for making, 121
Steingarten on, 121
pastry, Pâte à Choux, 341
pastry bag, Olive Oil Noodles, 266
Pâte à Choux, 341
Patterson, Daniel
Grapefruit and Black Pepper recipe, 321
poached scrambled eggs recipe, 240
Pea Vine Salad, 222
peaches
acidity of, 278
195
138
peanuts
Pad Thai, 193
pears
acidity of, 278
195
138
Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil, 173
puree of, best bets for cooking pears for, 144
peas
acidity of, 278
INDEX P
peas (continued)
Green Pea Yuba, 249
pecans, smoked, best bets for, 183
pecorino cheese
in Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258
smoked, Pecorino with Truffle Honey on
Cedar, 244
Pecorino Romano cheese, Poached Apple
with Pecorino Foam, 320
pectin
high-methoxyl
BBQ Caramels, 231
for cold gels, 260
low-methoxyl
for cold gels, 260
104, Grapefruit and Black Pepper, 321
104 AS, Beet Flexicurd, 296
Pectinex
Smash XXL
speeding and increasing yield from
centrifuging with, 41
Ultra SP-L
Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi,
32
pepperoni, best bets for, 132–133
peristaltic pumps, for spherification, 290
persimmons
acidity of, 278
138
pH
best bets for lowering, 22
of fruits and vegetables, 278
of marinade, 114
raising to accelerate Maillard reaction, 203
slow vs. fast fermentation and, 133
pheasant. See also poultry
pho broth, best bets for, 14–15
385
P
PHOSPHATES
phosphates. See also disodium phosphate;
polyphosphates; potassium phosphate;
sodium hexametaphosphate; sodium
phosphate; sodium tripolyphosphate
basic brine using, best bets for, 101
in brines or wet cures, 102
phosphoric acid, Orange Soda, 62
pickle chips, best bets for, 162
pickled eggs, 234
best bets for, 234
pickles
fermented, formula for, 173
Kimchi, 175
Nukazake, 175
Pickled Figs, 177
Pickled Garlic, 174
Pickled Lemon, 179
Pickled Quail Eggs, 234
Pickled Ramps, 178
Pickled Tapioca Pearl, 174
salt, formula for, 173
sour vinegar, formula for, 173
sweet vinegar, formula for, 173
Piège, Jean-François
Spaghetti Carbonara recipe, 192
Steamed Blancmange recipe, 335
pig, suckling, cooking sous vide, best bets for,
68
pigeon. See also poultry
leg of
Farce Royale, 126
Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 72
Toasted Oat Jus, 38
pigeon blood, Boudin Noir Custard, 239
pigeon gizzards, Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98
pigeon hearts, Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98
pigeon stock, best bets for, 6–7
pig’s blood, Blood Pudding Custard, 298
pine buds, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20
pine nuts
Cream, 54
pineapple
acidity of, 278
195
138
386 pineapple (continued)
pink brine, basic, best bets for, 101
pink salt rub, best bets for, 102
pipetting, Edible Wrappers, 230
piping bag, Idiazábal Gnocchi, 258
pistachios
Boudin Blanc, 131
Pistachio Puree, 57
215
plant foods. See also citrus fruits; fruits; root
vegetables; vegetables; specific plant foods
cooking under pressure, 149–151
best bets for, 149
smoked, 183–184
best bets for, 183
plums
acidity of, 278
195
138
pluots, Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop
Mochi, 32
Point, Fernand, Poulet au Feu d’Enfer recipe,
72
Polcyn, Brian, Blackstrap Molasses Country
Ham recipe, 110
polenta
instant, for breadings, 167
Marinara, 214
polyglycerol polyricinoleate, Aerated
Chocolate, 349
polyphosphates
in coarse-ground sausages, 125
for frankfurters, 129
shortening presalting time for sausage with,
126
polysorbate 80
pomegranates
acidity of, 278
Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 204
pommes aligot, best bets for, 148
Pommes Soufflées, 342
ponzu, Sous Vide Ponzu, 22
porcini mushrooms
139
and Porcini, 70
pork. See also bacon; ham; jamón Ibérico;
prosciutto; suckling pig
Banyuls Glaze, 38
chops from
freeze-drying, 58
leg of, curing, best bets for, 103
Pork Loin Roast, 94
Pork Ribs, 88
Pulled Pork Shoulder, 89
ribs from
Saucisson Sec, 134
shank of, curing, best bets for, 103
shoulder of
tenderloin of, brining, best bets for, 103
Infusion, 10
pork and Banyuls roasting jus, best bets for,
34–35
pork belly
pork butt
pork cheek
pork fatback, Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage, 136
pork hocks, best bets for cooking, 86
pork jowl, curing, best bets for, 103
pork skin
Pork Loin Roast, 94
puffing, how to, 93
pork stock, best bets for, 6–7
pork trotters
PUMPKIN
port wine, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
posset, best bets for, 245
potassium carbonate, in alkaline ramen, 191
potassium chloride, Sunny-Side Up “Eggs,”
268
potassium phosphate, for spherification, 290
potato foam, best bets for, 148
potato starch
Water Chestnuts, 73
potatoes
acidity of, 278
Clay Potatoes, 199
143
mashed, best bets for, 148
Pommes Soufflées, 342
Potato Puree, 148, 151
Potato Salad, 140
puree of
best bets for, 55, 148
best bets for cooking potatoes for, 144
Potato Puree, 148
roasted, best bets for, 148
184
215
pot-au-feu
poultry. See also specific kinds of poultry
livers of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96
tender
red, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71
white, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 71
tough, 82–83
poultry stock
prawns. See also langoustines
Shrimp Cocktail, 80
pregelatinized starch crackers, best bets for,
342
pregelatinized starch paste
Pregelatinized Starch Paste, 200
preserved eggs, 234
best bets for, 234
preserves
sugar, formula for, 173
preserving, of produce, 173–182
best bets for, 182
formulas for, 173
pressure canner, Fresh Cheese Curds, 247
pressure-cooking
Baked Beans, 149
with baking soda, 150
Banyuls Glaze, 38
for broths, 15
Cured Ham Broth, 18
Garlic Confit, 176
Ham Broth, 16
Hot Quince Gel, 280
for making jus, 35
Mushroom Broth, 19
Mushroom Jus, 37
of mustard seeds, 151
of nuts, to soften, 222
Paella Rice, 153
Paella Stock, 9
Marinara, 214
Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 151
INDEX P
pressure-cooking (continued)
Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans, 149
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto, 154
for stocks, 6–7, 9–11
Toasted Oat Jus, 38
of tough cuts of meat, 86
of tough poultry, 82
of tough shellfish, 83
Infusion, 10
pressure-frying, The Colonel’s Fried Chicken,
165
pressure-marinating, Yakitori, 115
produce. See citrus fruits; fruits; plant foods;
root vegetables; vegetables; specific fruits and
vegetables
proofing cabinet, Hamburger Bun, 334
propylene glycol alginate
Jus Gras, 310
Salmon Custard, 253
Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth, 76
prosciutto
Chawanmushi, 242
Ham Broth, 16
protein curds, 245–250
best bets for, 245
prunes, Edible Prune Coals, 347
puffed chips, 162
puffed snacks, 342–346
best bets for, 342
Pulled Mushroom, 197
pumpkin, acidity of, 278
387
P
PURE-COTE B790
Pure-Cote B790
purees
Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 217
Date Puree, 145
fruit
best bets for, 55
best bets for cooking fruits sous vide for,
144
Pistachio Puree, 57
potato, best bets for, 148
Potato Puree, 148
smooth, making, 55
Tamarind Paste, 145
Tamarind Puree, 218
vegetable, 55–57
best bets for, 55
best bets for cooking vegetables sous vide
for, 144
PVC tubes, Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto,
262
388 Q
quail
Water Chestnuts, 73
quail eggs, Pickled Quail Eggs, 234
Quatre Épices, 48
quiche fillings, best bets for, 239
quince
acidity of, 278
Hot Quince Gel, 280
quinoa
Veil, 281
R
rabbit
Paella Stock, 9
shoulder of, best bets for cooking, 86
Rack of Lamb, 68
radishes. See also daikon radishes
acidity of, 278
Nukazake, 175
raisins, Carbonated Golden Raisins, 63
Ramen Noodles, 194
ramp bulbs, Pickled Ramps, 178
Ras el Hanout, 52
raspberries
acidity of, 278
Rautureau, Thierry, Spot Prawns with Foie
Gras Nage recipe, 307
razor clams
red cabbage
acidity of, 278
Red Coleslaw, 46
in Sauerkraut, 177
Juice, 47
Red Coleslaw, 46
red currants. See currants, red
red onions, acidity of, 278
red wine
Red-Eye Gravy, 225
Redzepi, René, Edible Earth recipe, 208
refractometer, 231
Rémoulade Sauce, 302
rennet
for basic milk curd, 245
Cocoa Nib Curd, 246
for farmer’s cheese, 245
for fresh cottage cheese, 245
rhubarb
acidity of, 278
195
rhubarb (continued)
for lowering pH, 22
puree of, best bets for cooking rhubarb for,
144
rhubarb water, best bets for, 42–43
Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and
Porcini, 70
5ˇ ribonucleotides, seasoning with, 21
D-ribose powder, Beef Tenderloin with Jus de
Roti, 212
rice. See also risottos
Arborio
bomba
Paella Rice, 153
Socarrat Tuile, 345
brown
carnaroli
Risotto Milanese, 153
Lettuce, 99
forbidden, risotto using, best bets for, 152
Japanese, short-grain, risotto using, best
bets for, 152
jasmine, Crispy Dosa, 181
puffed snacks using, best bets for, 342
Rice Crisp, 343
rice flakes, pressed, for breadings, 167
rice flour pasta, dough for, best bets for, 191
rice starch, thickening with, best bets for,
200
Rich Brown Stock, 7
ricotta cheese
best bets for, 245
Ripert, Eric
Escolar with Red Wine Butter recipe, 75
Fluke Ceviche recipe, 117
risottos, 152–156
best bets for, 152
cooking sous vide, 152
parboiling, 152
pressure-cooking, 152
Robuchon, Joël
Shellfish Custard recipe, 276
Roca, Joan
Eggplant Foam recipe, 324
Oysters with Cava Foam recipe, 327
Smoked Octopus recipe, 123
Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and
Orange Sauce recipe, 87
rockfish, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
Roellinger, Olivier
Exotic Spice Mixture recipe, 53
Indies Spice Blend recipe, 48
and Cocoa recipe, 80
Romano beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 141
Romera, Miguel Sanchez, Steamed Cod with
Cod Roe Velouté recipe, 203
Romesco Sauce, 54
root vegetables. See also specific vegetables
best bets for microwaving, 157
rose petals, Crystallized Rose Petals, 187
rosemary, infusing flavor into liquids from, 27
rotary evaporator
distilling using, 47
Juice, 47
rotary slicer, Japanese, Yogurt Foam and
Sweet Potato Chips, 329
rotor-stator homogenizer
Jus Gras, 310
for making purees, 55
rubs. See dry rubs
Ruhlman, Michael, Blackstrap Molasses
Country Ham recipe, 110
rum, Carbonated Mojito Spheres, 291
rutabaga
acidity of, 278
139
puree of, best bets for cooking rutabaga for,
144
in Sauerkraut, 177
Rye Bread, 337
INDEX S
SANDERS, HARLAND
S
sabayon
184
319
sablefish, cold-smoking, best bets for, 120
saffron
sake
salads. See also coleslaw
Caesar Salad, 189
Pea Vine Salad, 222
Potato Salad, 140
215
salami, best bets for, 132–133
salmon
lox-style, 121
Russian style, cold-smoking, best bets for,
120
Salmon Custard, 253
Salmon Tartare Cornets, 67
Scottish-style, 121
salmon jus, rare, best bets for, 34–35
salmon skin, Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows, 95
salsify
139
Puree, 250
salt
aquarium, Beet Juice-Fed Oysters, 119
brines and. See brines; brining
Salt Gel, 261
Salted Halibut, 112
seasoning with, 21
salt cod broth, best bets for, 14–15
Sanders, Harland, The Colonel’s Fried
Chicken recipe, 165
389
S
SANDWICHES
sandwiches, Egg Salad Sandwich, 238
sardines, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
sauce gun
sauces. See also barbecue sauces; curry sauces
freeze-drying, 58
Rémoulade Sauce, 302
Romesco Sauce, 54
Sous Vide Ponzu, 22
saucisson sec
Saucisson Sec, 134
Sauerkraut, 177
sausages
coarse-ground, 124–127
Farce Royale, 126
emulsion-style, 128–131
Boudin Blanc, 131
Frankfurter, 130
fermented, 132–135
Saucisson Sec, 134
Modernist, 136–137
savoy cabbage
Sauerkraut, 177
White Coleslaw, 302
scallions
acidity of, 278
Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and
Ginger, 92
scallops
Chawanmushi, 242
dried, seasoning with, 21
freeze-drying, 58
Mochi, 32
Scallop Mochi, 345
Scallop Tartare, 66
390 sea bass, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
sea urchin tongues
Sea Urchin Butter, 297
Ponzu, 266
Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca, 328
seafood. See also fish; shellfish; specific kinds of
seafood
59
Seafood Paper, 113
seafood brine, basic, best bets for, 101
seaweed
Lettuce, 99
Hon Dashi, 15
Seaweed Tapenade, 218
Seaweed Vinegar, 23
seeds. See also specific kinds of seeds
self-coagulated eggs, best bets for, 234
semolina pasta
dough for, best bets for, 191
Semolina Pasta, 195
separatory funnel
washing citrus oil, 26
Serra, Richard, 329
sesame seeds
Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds, 151
shallots
139
143
puree of
best bets for, 55
best bets for cooking shallots for, 144
seasoning with, 21
Shaoxing wine, infusing flavors into liquids
with, 24
shellfish. See also seafood; specific kinds of
shellfish
best bets for, 79
tender, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 79
tough, 83–85
shellfish jus, best bets for, 34–35
shellfish sausage, best bets for, 128–129
shellfish stock
Shellfish Stock, 7
sherry
and Cocoa, 80
sherry vinegar, Sherry Gel Cube, 267
shiitake mushrooms
139
dried, frying naked, best bets for, 159
fresh, frying naked, best bets for, 159
Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and
Shiitake, 97
shimeji mushrooms, cooking sous vide until
shrimp
Pad Thai, 193
Shrimp Cocktail, 80
shrimp paste, seasoning with, 21
Silken Tofu, 246
silver powder, edible, Monkfish with
Constructed Skin, 95
simplesse, Aerated Foie Gras, 348
siphon. See also carbonating siphon; whipping
siphon
for making batters, 163
184
skate
skin, puffed
chicken, Ultracrisp Chicken Crown, 93
SOUS VIDE METHODS
skin, puffed (continued)
pork
how to puff, 93
Pork Loin Roast, 94
slicer, rotary, Japanese, Yogurt Foam and
Sweet Potato Chips, 329
slow-curing rub, best bets for, 102
smoke gun, Smoked Octopus, 123
smoked dairy products, 244
best bets for, 244
smoked eggs, 244
best bets for, 244
Smoked Lettuce, 195
smoked plant foods, 183–184
best bets for, 183
smoking. See also cold-smoking; hot-smoking
Beef Brisket, 88
Beef Short Ribs, 90
after brining, 101
of fermented sausage, 132
Pork Ribs, 88
Smoked Octopus, 123
184
snails
Sous Vide Braised Snails, 83
snapper
Sous Vide Snapper, 78
Socarrat Tuile, 345
soda siphon. See carbonating siphon
sodas
Ginger Cola, 311
Orange Soda, 62
sodium alginate
Caper Droplets, 293
Melon Caviar, 291
sodium benzoate, to preserve color and flavor
of fresh juice, 31
sodium carbonate, in alkaline ramen, 191
sodium caseinate
sodium caseinate (continued)
298
sodium citrate
Cheddar Soup, 301
Cheesy Whip, 301
in ham and cheese sausage, 129
Madeira Gelée, 264
sodium hexametaphosphate
Dill Spheres, 259
for fruit and vegetable gels, 278
Hot Quince Gel, 280
sodium hydroxide
Century Egg, 234
Lutefisk, 114
sodium metabisulfite, to preserve color and
flavor of fresh juice, 31
sodium nitrate, in Wiltshire tank cure, 102
sodium nitrite, in Wiltshire tank cure, 102
sodium phosphate
Cheesy Whip, 301
Joha SDS2, for constructed cheeses, 299
sodium tripolyphosphate
in basic phosphate brine, 101
sole
aging of, Kinch on, 76
319
sorbets
sorbitol
Bacon Chip, 104
Glaze, 272
for hot gels, 274
Hot Orange Gel, 279
INDEX S
soufflés
soups
Cheddar Soup, 301
cheese, best bets for, 299
Lettuce, 99
onion, cooking under pressure, best bets
for, 149
sous vide methods
Yuba and Enoki, 84
Agar Carbonara, 275
Ankimo Torchon, 97
Bacon Dashi, 18
Bacon Jam, 304
Baked Beans, 149
Banana Yogurt, 41
Beef Brisket, 88
Beef Short Ribs, 90
best bets for cooking fruits sous vide until
tender, 138
until tender, 139
with fat, 143
Black Cod, 76
Borscht Broth, 14
Boudin Blanc, 131
298
for broths, 15
Chawanmushi, 242
Chestnut Confit, 143
391
S
SOUS VIDE METHODS
sous vide methods (continued)
Chili Pearls, 265
Clam Juice, 36
for coarse-ground sausages, 125
Coffee Butter, 350
Corn Custard, 256
Curry Oil, 30
Date Puree, 145
105
for fermenting, 133
Lettuce, 99
Garlic Confit, 176
Glazed Carrot, 25
Glazed Oxtail, 90
Goulash Broth, 19
Hon Dashi, 15
Hot Banana Gel, 280
Hot Orange Gel, 279
Lobster Mushroom Confit, 144
Lutefisk, 114
for making consommé, 43
for making jus, 35
Milk Foam, 317
392 sous vide methods (continued)
and Cocoa, 80
Onion Rings, 170
Pickled Figs, 177
Pigeon with Shellfish Butter, 72
Pork Loin Roast, 94
Pork Ribs, 88
Potato Puree, 148, 151
Potato Salad, 140
Pulled Mushroom, 197
Water Chestnuts, 73
Rack of Lamb, 68
and Porcini, 70
for risottos, 152
Rye Bread, 337
for sausages, emulsion-style, 129
Shrimp Cocktail, 80
Socarrat Tuile, 345
Sous Vide Artichoke, 142
Sous Vide Foie Gras, 96
Sous Vide Green Asparagus, 142
Sous Vide Guinea Hen, 83
Sous Vide Pigeon Offal, 98
Sous Vide Ponzu, 22
Sous Vide Snapper, 78
319
Sous Vide Turnip, 139
Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 90
Sous Vide Vegetable Stock, 13
Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style, 84
77
for stocks, 7, 12–13
Orange Sauce, 87
Tamarind Paste, 145
Tamarind Puree, 218
tender meats cooked using, 68–70
best bets for, 68
for tender offal, 96
for tough cuts of meat, 86
for tough offal, 96
Turkey Wing, 204
Venison Loin Rossini, 69
215
XO Sauce, 213
STRAWBERRIES
Yakitori, 115
South Carolina Barbecue Sauce, 219
soybeans, Soy Milk, 227
soy gels, transglutaminase, best bets for,
252–253
soy lecithin
deoiled powder
Citrus Air, 312
Horchata Foam, 316
Parsley Foam, 313
Tomato Vinegar Foam, 315
liquid
Jus Gras, 310
soy milk
about, 248
Firm Tofu, 248
Green Pea Yuba, 249
Silken Tofu, 246
Soy Milk, 227
soy sauce
23
seasoning with, 21
Sous Vide Ponzu, 22
spaetzle, Sour Cream Spaetzle, 252
spaghetti squash
acidity of, 278
spelt
spherification, 290–295
best bets for, 290
reverse, 290
suspending solids in gelled spheres and,
290
spice mixes. See also dry rubs
Chaat Masala, 50
Citrus Spice, 52
Exotic Spice Mixture, 53
Fish Spice Mix, 51
Indies Spice Blend, 48
Licorice Powder, 52
Pain d’Épices Powder, 51
Quatre Épices, 48
Ras el Hanout, 52
Spice Mix Emulsion, 309
Sweet Spice Blend, 50
Spiced Ash, 206
spices, toasting, 224
spinach
acidity of, 278
puree of
best bets for, 55
best bets for cooking spinach for, 144
Spinach Paper, 187
spray-drying, 59
spreads
cheese, best bets for, 299
spring onions. See scallions
squash. See also specific kinds of squash
139
Squash Glaze, 39
squid
squid ink
Vegetable Coals, 197
stand mixer
for coarse-ground sausages, 124
for fermented sausage, 132
Hamburger Bun, 334
Pâte à Choux, 341
Rye Bread, 337
for set foams, 330
Whipped Cheese, 317
star anise, infusing flavor into liquids from,
20, 27
starch. See also specific kinds of starch
modified, as adhesive for breading, 167
starch gels, 255–259
starch thickeners
modern, 201–209
best bets for, 201
traditional, best bets for, 200
starch/water slurry, as liquid for breading, 167
INDEX S
steam oven. See also combi oven; CVap oven
Chawanmushi, 242
steamer, low-temperature, Ham and Cheese
Omelet, 240
steaming
Corn Custard, 256
Omelet Base, 243
Silken Tofu, 246
Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad, 77
Steingarten, Jeffrey
on pastrami, 121
stir-frying
Pad Thai, 193
Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns, 160
stocks
freeze-drying, 58
Onion Stock, 11
Paella Stock, 9
Rich Brown Stock, 7
Shellfish Stock, 7
sous vide methods for making, 12–13
Infusion, 10
White Stock, 6
strawberries
acidity of, 278
195
Marinara, 214
393
S
STRAWBERRIES
strawberries (continued)
Stupak, Alex
Aerated Coffee Ice Cream recipe, 349
Pistachio Puree recipe, 57
Whipped Cheese recipe, 317
sturgeon
Subijana, Pedro, Eggs Benedict recipe, 236
suckling pig
shoulder and leg of, best bets for cooking,
86
Orange Sauce, 87
sucrose, for cold gels, 260
sucrose esters
Milk Foam, 317
sugar preserves, formula for, 173
Sugimoto, Takashi, Green Pea Yuba recipe, 249
summer squash. See also yellow squash;
zucchini
139
sunchokes. See Jerusalem artichokes
sunflower seeds, cooking under pressure,
best bets for, 149
super methylcellulose SGA 150, Oxtail
Consommé, 46
sweet cure, basic, best bets for, 102
sweet potatoes
acidity of, 278
Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips, 329
sweet whey powder, Strawberry Milk Shake,
62
sweetbreads
Shiitake, 97
Swiss cheese, The American Cheese Slice, 300
syringe
Melon Caviar, 291
394 T
Tagine Base, 39
Takazawa, Yoshiaki, simulation of nature in
dishes of, 208
Talbot, H. Alexander
Aerated Gruyère recipe, 348
Compressed Melon Terrine recipe, 196
fast hot-spring egg recipe, 232
Goat Cheese Dumplings recipe, 246
Pasta Marinara recipe, 193
Pulled Mushroom recipe, 197
Whipped Yogurt Crisps recipe, 333
tamarind
for lowering pH, 22
Tamarind Paste, 145
Tamarind Puree, 218
tangerines. See also citrus fruits
acidity of, 278
tapioca pearls
tapioca starch
crackers made with
best bets for, 342
tarbais beans, Pressure-Cooked Tarbais
Beans, 149
taro, acidity of, 278
tarragon, infusing flavor into liquids from, 20
tartar sauce, Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce, 303
tartares, 64–67
best bets for, 64
Salmon Tartare Cornets, 67
Scallop Tartare, 66
tartaric acid
for cold gels, 260
for lowering pH, 22
Melon Water, 31
31
for set foams, 330
tea
green
Green Tea Cake, 333
Techamuanvivit, Pim, Pad Thai recipe, 193
temperatures
for cooking poultry sous vide, 71
for cooking tough shellfish, 83
temperatures (continued)
for fish cooked sous vide, 74
prefreezing, for freeze-drying, 59
for setting of egg yolks, 233
tempura batter, best bets for, 163
Thai chicken sausage, best bets for, 124–125
Thai stock
Thermomix, Blood Pudding Custard, 298
thermophilic starter, Fresh Cheese Curds, 247
Thickened Oil, 306
thickening
of cold liquids, best bets for, 211
of hot liquids, best bets for, 210
starches for. See starch thickeners
This, Hervé
Chocolate Chantilly recipe, 322
Pickled Quail Eggs recipe, 234
Thompson, Bradford, Preserved Lemons
recipe, 174
Thompson, David, Thai chicken sausage
recipe, 124–125
300 Bloom gelatin. See gelatin, 300 Bloom
thyme, infusing flavor into liquids from, 27
tigernuts. See chufa nuts
tilapia, Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and
Ginger, 92
time-temperature combinations, for cooking
tough shellfish, 83
Toasted Oat Jus, 38
toasting spices, 224
tofu
best bets for, 245
Firm Tofu, 248
Ponzu, 266
Silken Tofu, 246
Tom Yum Broth, 18
tomatoes
acidity of, 278
195
green, Fried Green Tomatoes, 168
Pasta Marinara, 193
Marinara, 214
puree of, best bets for cooking tomatoes for,
144
seasoning with, 21
tomatoes (continued)
Tomato Confit, 179
Tomato Powder, 157
Tomato Water, 40
tongue. See beef tongue; duck tongue; veal
tongue
transglutaminase gels, 252–254. See also
Activa entries
trehalose
Candied Puffed Oats, 345
230
Onion Arlette, 231
Infusion, 10
Trisol
Cromesquis, 168
Fried Pickles, 164
Troisgros, Michel, Cocoa Nib Curd recipe,
246
Trotter, Charlie, Quail with Apple-Vinegar
Emulsion and Water Chestnuts recipe, 73
trout
77
truffles. See also black truffles
tuiles, Socarrat Tuile, 345
tuna
belly of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
298
loin of, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 74
turbot
aging of, Kinch on, 76
turkey. See also poultry
Turkey Wing, 204
whole, brining, best bets for, 103
wings of, cooking sous vide, best bets for,
82
turnips
acidity of, 278
turnips (continued)
139
143
puree of, best bets for cooking turnips for,
144
in Sauerkraut, 177
Sous Vide Turnip, 139
spring, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 147
200 Bloom gelatin, Edible Wrappers, 230
240 Bloom gelatin, Halibut in Verbena Bubble,
273
INDEX U
UNI
U
Ultra-Crisp CS
ultrahigh-pressure homogenizer, for making
purees, 55
ultrasonic bath
extracting citrus essential oil, 47
flavor extraction for broths using, 22
ultrasonic homogenizer, for making purees, 55
Ultra-Sperse
A
Potato Puree, 148
5
Avocado Puree, 201
M
Almond Polenta, 207
Cheese Puffs, 344
3
Cromesquis, 168
Pomegranate and Garum Jus, 204
Ultra-Tex
8, thickening with, best bets for, 201
4, Crispy Goat’s Milk Ricotta Pudding, 205
umami brine, best bets for, 101
umami flavor, 23
Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel, 289
uni. See sea urchin tongues
395
V
V
VACUUM CHAMBER
vacuum chamber
Smoked Lettuce, 195
vacuum concentrating
Red Coleslaw, 46
Juice, 47
vacuum cooling, air cooling compared with,
161
vacuum evaporator, Vacuum-Concentrated
Apple and Cabbage Juice, 47
vacuum filtering
Tomato Water, 40
vacuum oven, Green Olive Meringue, 339
vacuum pressure, boiling point vs., 47
vacuum reduction
Condrieu Butter, 25
Glazed Carrot, 25
Red Coleslaw, 46
vacuum sealing
Ankimo Torchon, 97
Black Cod, 76
Chaat Masala, 50
Chestnut Cream, 328
Citrus Spice, 52
Cocoa Nib Curd, 246
Cocoa Tajarin, 194
Confit Cure Mix, 106
396 vacuum sealing (continued)
Cured Beef Tenderloin “Bresaola Style,”
111
105
for extracting flavor with alcohol, 26
Fish Spice Mix, 51
Fried Pickles, 164
Glazed Oxtail, 90
Ham Broth, 16
Hon Dashi, 15
Horchata Foam, 316
Laksa Broth, 17
Lemon Strips, 228
Lutefisk, 114
Melon Caviar, 291
Melon Water, 31
Milk Foam, 317
Pasta Marinara, 193
Pâte à Choux, 341
Pickled Lemon, 179
Pickled Ramps, 178
vacuum sealing (continued)
Pistachio Puree, 57
Marinara, 214
Ramen Noodles, 194
Ras el Hanout, 52
Rye Bread, 337
Salmon Custard, 253
Salted Halibut, 112
Sauerkraut, 177
Scallop Mochi, 345
Seaweed Vinegar, 23
Smoked Octopus, 123
184
Sous Vide Ponzu, 22
319
Soy Milk, 227
Tagine Base, 39
Tom Yum Broth, 18
Tomato Confit, 179
Infusion, 10
Turkey Wing, 204
VONGERICHTEN, JEAN-GEORGES
vacuum sealing (continued)
vinegar, 23
215
Whipped Butter, 329
Yakitori, 115
vacuum tumbling, to reduce marinating time,
114
vacuum cooling, Pommes Pont-Neuf, 160
vacuum drying
of fermented sausage, 133
vanilla beans
scraping seedpods of, 48
veal. See also oxtail
breast of, best bets for cooking, 86
shank of, best bets for cooking, 86
veal heart, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96
veal liver, cooking sous vide, best bets for, 96
veal marrowbones
veal stock, best bets for, 6–7
veal sweetbreads
Shiitake, 97
veal tongue
Sous Vide Veal Tongue, 90
Vegemite, seasoning with, 21
Vegetable Coals, 197
vegetable jus, best bets for, 34–35
vegetable stock
vegetables. See also greens; root vegetables;
specific vegetables
acidities of, 278
chips made from
best bets for, 162
puffed, 162
compressed and impregnated, 195–199
best bets for, 195
cooking sous vide for purees, 144–145
best bets for, 144
vegetables (continued)
cooking sous vide in sugar syrup until
tender, 146
best bets for, 146
138, 139–142
cooking sous vide with fat, 143–144
best bets for, 143
dehydrating, 185–187
best bets for, 185
formulas for, 186
fibrous, best bets for microwaving, 157
best bets for, 188
heat-sensitive, cooking sous vide, 147
best bets for, 147
microwaving, 157–158
best bets for, 157
purees of, dehydrating using microwave,
best bets for, 157
venison
Venison Loin Rossini, 69
verjus
for lowering pH, 22
vermouth
Versawhip, for thick foams, 322
Versawhip 600, Barbecued Eel with Whipped
Caramel, 327
Veyrat, Marc, 311
Citrus Air recipe, 312
Halibut in Verbena Bubble recipe, 273
Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino recipe,
320
Truffle Jus recipe, 212
vin jaune
184
vinaigrettes
23
vinegar, 23
eggs coagulated using, best bets for, 234
for lowering pH, 22
Seaweed Vinegar, 23
sherry, Sherry Gel Cube, 267
INDEX V
Viscarin TP 389, Lemon Strips, 228
vital gluten, in cocoa tajarin, 191
vitamin C. See ascorbic acid
vitamin E. See alpha tocopherol
vodka
for extracting flavor with alcohol, 26
House Bitters, 27
for washing citrus oil, 26
Vongerichten, Jean-Georges, 311
Spiced Chili Oil recipe, 29
Shiitake recipe, 97
Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade
recipe, 116
397
W
W
WAFERS
wafers, produce dehydrating formulas for, 186
Wakuda, Tetsuya, Steelhead Trout Confit
with Fennel Salad recipe, 77
walnut oil, in Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil
Puree, 56
Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad, 215
wasabi, Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes,
Fresh Wasabi, and Miso Powder, 63
water bath
Chawanmushi, 242
Crispy Dosa, 181
Deviled Eggs, 233
Egg Blossom, 232
Molasses Butter, 29
Salmon Custard, 253
Smoked Octopus, 123
water chestnuts, Quail with Apple-Vinegar
Emulsion and Water Chestnuts, 73
watercress
puree of, best bets for cooking watercress
for, 144
watermelon
acidity of, 278
chips made from, best bets for, 162
195
Watermelon Chips, 162
watermelon rind, Watermelon Rind Kimchi,
175
Waters, Alice, Razor Clam with Sauce Verte
recipe, 85
water-vapor oven. See CVap oven
wax beans, yellow, Fresh Bean Salad, 141
waxy corn, thickening with, best bets for, 200
wet cures
best bets for, 102
phosphates in, 102
wet-rendering, Fried Chicken Sausage, 137
wheat, thickening with, best bets for, 200
wheat pasta, dough for, best bets for, 191
398 whey protein concentrate
Cheddar Soup, 301
Cheesy Whip, 301
whey protein isolate
Horchata Foam, 316
Whipped Butter, 329
Whipped Cheese, 317
whipping siphon
Boudin Blanc, 131
Cheesy Whip, 301
Chestnut Cream, 328
Chestnut Puffs, 336
Corn Foam, 318
Eggplant Foam, 324
Fried Egg Foam, 326
Green Tea Cake, 333
Oyster Beignet, 166
for set foams, 330
319
Whipped Butter, 329
Yakitori, 115
whipping wand, handheld
Citrus Air, 312
whipping wand, handheld (continued)
Horchata Foam, 316
Milk Foam, 317
Parsley Foam, 313
whisk, electric
Pork Loin Roast, 94
for set foams, 330
whiskey, infusing flavors into liquids with, 24
white beans, cooking under pressure, best bets
for, 149
white cabbage, Sous Vide and PressureCooked Veal Breast with Bulbous Vegetables,
91
White Coleslaw, 302
White Lily brand flour, about, 336
White Stock, 6
white wine. See also vermouth
whitefish, cold-smoking, best bets for, 120
whole egg batter, best bets for, 163
wild rice
Socarrat Tuile, 345
Wiltshire tank cure, best bets for, 102
wine. See red wine; white wine; specific kinds
of wine
wine filter, Tomato Water, 40
wine press, Jus de la Presse, 34
winter squash. See also specific kinds of squash
puree of
best bets for, 55
best bets for cooking squash for, 144
Wolfert, Paula, Duck Leg Confit with Pommes
Sarladaises recipe, 105
Wondra, thickening with, best bets for, 201
Worcestershire sauce, seasoning with, 21
X
xanthan gum
Almond Polenta, 207
Apricot and Jasmine Puree, 217
Chawanmushi, 242
Chili Pearls, 265
Citrus Air, 312
for cold gels, 260
Corn Foam, 318
in curry sauces, 223
Eggplant Foam, 324
for fluid gels, 285
Ham Broth, 16
Hot Banana Gel, 280
for hot gels, 274
Jus Gras, 310
Knot Foie, 264
Oyster Beignet, 166
Marinara, 214
Salmon Custard, 253
ZUCCHINI BLOSSOM BEIGNETS
xanthan gum (continued)
Seaweed Tapenade, 218
for set foams, 330
Spice Mix Emulsion, 309
Tamarind Puree, 218
in wheat pasta, 191
XO Sauce, 213
XO Sauce, 213
INDEX Y
Z
Yakitori, 115
yams, Japanese, cooking sous vide with fat,
best bets for, 143
yeast batter, best bets for, 163
yellow squash
acidity of, 278
139
yellow wax beans, Fresh Bean Salad, 141
yogurt
Z
Zhu, Mrs., Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions
and Ginger recipe, 92
zucchini
acidity of, 278
139
399

Index to Modernist Cuisine Kitchen Manual

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