pdf - Fly fishing at Tuckamore Lodge
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pdf - Fly fishing at Tuckamore Lodge
Tuckamore land Tuckamore is a typical Newfoundland term for the stunted balsam fir and spruce trees that grow in some alpine areas and along the coast. All along the shoreline of the Great Northern Peninsula and the Labrador Straits, you can find this rare and peculiar vegetation. Even more unusual, at certain times of the year, this vegetation can produce a very nice fragrance. This odor becomes stronger especially after a little rainfall or when trees are covered with dew. On windy days, the costal air can reach far inland and the people in Newfoundland call it the smell of Tuckamore. Personally, I describe it as “the perfume of the wild”. By Hans van Klinken the most important lessons in my him, I became a willing listener as he fly fishing development. The man discussed his philosophy of fly fishing was very generous, and willing to and his deep respect for nature and help by giving me useful tips and wildlife. His conclusions were eye information about the river and the opening for me. His stories and fly In the early eighties I had an area. His stories became even more fishing attitude touched my heart and unforgettable meeting on the amazing when he explained fairly innermost feelings so deeply, that it banks of the mighty Klara River in detailed how he personally connected caused me to make major alterations Sweden. I saw an older angler who fly fishing with nature and wildlife. I in my early developing writing style. was having much more success was completely in awe of his stories Years later, in the mid and late than I, and I was so interested in his and experiences. We invited him to nineties while we were visiting Barb skill and achievement that I struck join us for a nice shore lunch at our Genge’s Tuckamore Lodge in the up a conversation with him on the humble little campsite. We did not wilderness of Newfoundland, riverbank. For me, this particular fish anymore that day. Instead, while meeting turned out to be one of sharing a fine bottle of wine with How words and feelings come to life ➥ Tuckamore Land I experienced a similar awakening. water levels, water flows, bottom several grilse and even a few real When she expressed her long held structures and weather conditions salmon on a dry fly. However, very points of view about nature, wildlife, which I had gained in Norway. The few people believed me. This forced and ecotourism, I could not help but only study material I had available me to continue my exploration on find new inspiration for many of my was some very detailed information my own. By the end of the eighties, I Newfoundland & Labrador stories on what I had written in several of was successfully able to catch grilse that were still in progress. Their my fishing diaries over the years. in the northern part of Norway using willingness to teach me and to share Since the early seventies, I had caught dry flies quite easily. However, my their special feelings have been a great source of motivation over the years. Why Atlantic Canada? The answer is quite simple. I wanted to study and discover the crucial similarities of an Atlantic salmon taking (dry) flies in Norway as opposed to Atlantic Canada. My ultimate goal was to find out why a salmon takes a dry fly aggressively in certain rivers and yet refuses to come to the surface in other streams. In addition, I wanted to test twenty years of knowledge of water quality, | 78 | Chasing Silver Fly Fishing Magazine Tuckamore Land success was limited to only seventeen river systems in central and southwest the State of Maine, USA. My Klinkhåmer Special was Slowly, utilizing old fashion snail mail and handwritten letters, I started to garnering more international build up an intense correspondence recognition and as a result, I was with Al and Warren. It didn’t take I made was my success in catching able to make many new contacts. long before we were swapping flies, salmon with dry flies was limited With help from great friends like discussing our fishing techniques, to warm or even extremely warm the late Alan Bramley from the Uk, and of course sharing our many weather conditions. A similar striking and the late master fly tier Hans P.C experiences in catching Atlantic observation was that nine of the de Groot from Holland, I was put in salmon by dry flies on both sides from 17 rivers were either tidal, or still touch with other well known fly tiers the Atlantic. Al and I have developed in estuary regions with nice tidal and fly fishermen, such as Warren a deep personal relationship although current. The salmon or sea trout I Duncan from New Brunswick and we never had the opportunity to meet caught in these rivers were some of Al Worthington from New Hope Pa. one another in person. He imported the largest I have ever landed. Beginning in 1981, Alan Bramley quality capes and saddles and was the Norway. Another important observation In the late eighties my interest in was the owner of the famous hook owner of the Hackle Hut. I still have dry fly fishing for salmon and sea trout company Partridge of Redditch and about 40 letters from him, all written had become so intense that I began a big sponsor of my workshops and on his Hackle Hut note paper and to look for any article and story about seminars. In 1989, he produced the some envelopes postmarked to me Atlantic salmon caught by dry flies. My special Klinkhåmer hook after my from his fishing residence in Nova search quickly lead me to fly fishermen own design. It was Alan who put me Scotia. All are filled with his latest fly and fly tiers who were familiar with in touch with his very good friend fishing information, catching reports fly fishing in Atlantic Canada, New Warren Duncan. Hans de Groot Brunswick, Quebec and even in parts of introduced me to Al Worthington. ➥ www.chasingsilvermagazine.com | 79 | Tuckamore Land and fishing techniques. Sadly, I lost communication and friendship we to share with me some of his fly all the letters from Warren during a slowly lost touch with each other. I fishing secrets which only widened house renovation several years ago. allowed my free time to become more my respect for him. I had the pleasure But I consider myself very fortunate limited due to more conscientious and of meeting him once and the last that I still have some of the flies that time-consuming job responsibilities. time we corresponded by letter was he specially tied for me to try on my In my eagerness to learn as in early 1990. Thanks to reading his trips to Nova Scotia, New Brunswick much as possible about dry fly fishing books and watching several of his and Newfoundland & Labrador. I for salmon, I am most pleased videos, my excitement to visit Atlantic confess I have never tried them; they with the personal correspondence Canada had grown to a fever pitch! A simply were too beautiful to fish with, I shared with Lee Wulff. We began few years after Lee’s tragic death I was so I copied them and have used the with very technical correspondence able to make one of the most exciting copies instead. Warren was a great in which we mostly discussed his fly fishing journey imaginable. teacher and mentor to me, especially dry fly experiences and successes in A fly fishing trip in which I actively in perfecting my own hairwings. I still Newfoundland and mine in Norway. fished in the footsteps of Lee and marvel at his ability to create these Later, Lee was touched by my story visited several of his favourite fly tiny little heads and have always been and the fact that few people in Europe fishing spots in Newfoundland. I impressed at some bulky hairwing believed me about my catches of sea needed four trips and much support patterns as well. Unfortunately, I trout and salmon by dry flies. I think from friends to realize what I call “ only able to meet Warren once and, this alone, must have motivated Lee the great fly fisherman’s dream”. for me, he died much too soon. Even to help me. He sent me a few of his today, it remains impossible for me books and video tapes in return for to adequately express my thanks and some of my Klinkhåmer flies. I had deepest gratitude for what Warren included a handful of them in my and Al taught me and the information first letter to him. I, for some reason, they shared freely with me. It is also doubted that he would reply to me. In the mid nineties, my wife and I with regret that after several years of But he did, and he even was willing began taking extensive trips to fish | 80 | Chasing Silver Fly Fishing Magazine Barb Genge “The Lady of the Wild” Tuckamore Land the Salmon Rivers in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Labrador. And fish we did! Although we learned a lot, we found the most successful fly fishing techniques we employed on theses trips were not so much different from what I had been using in Norway for so many years. For us, Newfoundland quickly became our favourite destination to catch the elusive Atlantic salmon on dry flies. That is not to say other provinces in Atlantic and Eastern Canada are not also spectacular for dry fly fishing. To explain this you need to understand the work schedules in our regular jobs only allowed for travel in June and early July. Fortunately, this period of time coincided with the Newfoundland salmon runs. In addition, we had many friends who were willing to guide for us and that made the Newfoundland trips easy to organize. ➥ www.chasingsilvermagazine.com | 81 | Apri l’s Fav Land Tuckamore Five few hours. I just let the words flow without restraint and allowed my emotions about the subject matter fill in the blanks. When I evaluated the reactions I received from the readers, I was able to very quickly evaluate why these people had such favourable opinions about my story. The positive feedback I received had a profound impact on the way I like to write today What is so special about Tuckamore Lodge? Barb’s Tuckamore Lodge is a magnificent first-class wilderness accommodation that almost entirely is engineered in Scandinavian style. The lodge was built on the banks of Little Pond and fits beautifully in the landscape. After a huge renovation which started in 2004, Tuckamore lodge has turned into one of the best looking lodges I ever have seen. And because the lodge is accessible by road, it allows for outdoor activities year round. It is no wonder that Outside Magazine has recognized Tuckamore Lodge Although I dream of fishing some and her everlasting motivation and as one of the six best lodges for of the marvellous runs in autumn enthusiasm that I wrote a story about encountering Canada’s great outdoor while enjoying the Indian summer, I her and named it: “The lady of Wild”. activities. The lodge is situated in am afraid that will have to wait until Although this article was actually the north-eastern tip of the pristine I am fully retired. Anyway, during meant for publication in Canada only, wilderness of the great Northern all these wonderful trips we stayed I received some nice feedback from Peninsula. The exact location is about at many great locations and fished points far outside North America. 2.5 kilometres from the small village with experienced and knowledgeable And I had no way of anticipating the of Main Brook, and just a twenty-five guides: guides like Tony Tuck, positive reactions I received from minute drive away from St. Anthony Gord Robinson, Barry and Janice many non-fishermen. I must admit airport. The area is renowned for Sweetland, John McCarthy and not to the positive and varied responses to its abundant populations of moose, forget Tuckamore’s Junior. But in the my work made me proud, but there caribou, and black bear. Black bears end, whenever we went we seemed was something else. I had learned and the elusive even lynx are more to always end up at Tuckamore lodge another very important lesson of life: difficult to spot and you will need with Tuckamore Barb. I have been be yourself. some wildlife experience or help continually amazed by Barb’s skills “The Lady of the wild” was my from a professional guide to find and her ability to bring people back first story that actually had nothing them. But rest assured at early to nature with her stories of the wild. to do with fly fishing or fly tying. morning and late evening you should I became so impressed with Barb To my surprise I wrote it in just a always succeed in locating moose | 82 | Chasing Silver Fly Fishing Magazine Tuckamore Apri l’s FavLand Five with your camera or binoculars. and explore. We have driven our is you do not require a four by four The Caribou we discovered either favourite roads on more than one and when driving carefully you can from a far distance in small herds occasion and each time we ran into a navigate most of these roads with on the barren, or the occasional lone new experience or adventure. It can your normal car as well. I vividly individual encountered on a long easily happen as you pass the nest of recall how we might first observe wilderness hike to fish remote pools. an osprey four or five times before you whales and icebergs before getting With Caribou we learned they seem really notice it. You find that you have near the end of a road. There are to always show up at places and times been busy watching too many other other times when you will spot an when you least expected them. things. The ability to stay at Barb’s and ➥ The good news about access sightsees by car or boat around the tip of Newfoundland’s great Northern Peninsula has been one of our most favourite none-fishing activities. The shoreline is hypnotic, even mystical at times, and by just following the coastal network of roads freely you will pass the many historic fishing villages and breathtaking landscapes. The photographic possibilities are simply unlimited and unbelievable. I found that many of these roads dead-end at the coastline and most tourists generally bypass them. I can assure you that they are absolutely worth the time and effort to discover www.chasingsilvermagazine.com | 83 | Tuckamore Land iceberg from a distance and try to of it all. Most of the icebergs that you Ecological Reserve - one of the most find a road which will get you closer. will see in this area have been calved important botanical sites on the Occasionally they may be hidden by from glaciers along the Greenland Island of Newfoundland. These the landscape and your first glimpse coast the previous year. Scientist are just a few of the many outdoor of them will be just around a turn estimate that between 35,000 up to possibilities that exist at Tuckamore in the road. In summertime the 40,000 reasonably sized icebergs lodge. You can find more by visiting: coastal waters are home to many calve annually in Greenland, but http://www.tuckamorelodge.com/ species of whales and sometimes in less then a thousand of them will activities-and-tours-cat.htm large numbers. Personally we have make it as far south as St. John’s. It is spotted most whales in the month interesting to know the glacial ice that of July very close to the shore and icebergs are made of may be more have not experienced this later in the than 15,000 years old. The numbers Not many people will ever appreciate season. The entire coastal region is of Icebergs varies enormously year that Tuckamore Lodge has survived the summer residence to millions by year and most experts say that the solely because of the perseverance and of seabirds and many are building highest numbers and the biggest ones dedication of one great Lady. Barb their nests on small islands and are usual seen in spring and early Genge found herself in a marriage rock croppingss offshore so their summer. We have been very fortunate and an outfitting business, both of eggs and chicks are protected from to observe this and take some very which had just broken down. Facing the predators that inhabit the main spectacular photographs of icebergs huge debts and all by herself, except island. on our sightseeing trips. for her 12 year old son, many people A short distance from Tuckamore just wanted her to give up and go to Newfoundland’s southern most Lodge you also will find special away. It was hard times and she eastern shore, you find yourself in attractions such as L’anse aux was entering a male dominated Iceberg Alley, and the tip of the Great Meadows - a 1,000 year old Viking business. Knowing there would be Northern Peninsula is in the centre settlement, and the Burnt Cape no support from government and no From the east coast of Labrador | 84 | Chasing Silver Fly Fishing Magazine Blood, sweat and tears Tuckamore Land hunting licenses available; she began employees became her big secrets. grounds required an enormous the journey of recovery. She found Somewhere along the way, strength in knowing and believing Barb also became more creative watchful leadership, a few dedicated that anything worthwhile never and flexible. She was not afraid enthusiasts and highly motivated comes without hard work. Although to experiment with new ideas individuals began cleaning up the Tuckamore Lodge originally started related to the outdoors. It is my Salmon River with their bare hands. as hunting lodge, she was quick to understanding that she was one of Thanks to them, we now have a new realize she needed to give the Lodge a the first innovators who seriously and much larger generation of salmon new identity to be successful. Getting introduced ecotourism into Canada. in record numbers. It was not an easy the salmon to return in serious And she did it in a lasting and proper task for Barb to achieve her dream of numbers again would be her goal. In way. Her dedication and hard work creating a real fly fishing paradise in addition, she knew she would have has given new hope and direction the north. However, each guest and to improve her personal skills. She to a lot of people in the community returning angler is in awe at what studied hard, read the books that of Mainbrook……and preserved she has accomplished at Tuckamore were available, attended courses and Tuckamore Lodge. Lodge. seminars, and learn she did. Her clean up program. Under Barb’s The first step in her effort to The past, present and future strong commitment and need for get the salmon to return in serious self-realization would have made numbers again, was to restore even Abraham Maslow very proud. As the nearby rivers from the neglect During our very first visits to she strove to be the best-of-class, she and the aftermath of the logging Tuckamore Lodge, Barb was already improved not only her knowledge, but industry. To ensure that returning offering her fly fishing guests a real her management style as well. That, salmon would be able to follow their coupled with and a handful of faithful way upstream to the best spawning ➥ www.chasingsilvermagazine.com | 85 | Tuckamore Land fishing paradise. The nearby Salmon six and ten pounds. Real salmon of flies, for example, were absolutely River and Southwest River were (salmon over 3 kg and longer than great under those circumstances. We perfectly suited for my research in one year at sea) I caught only in the also caught a lot of Brook trout in identifying any connections between Salmon River and the number of real some inland lakes where guide Junior my fishing successes in Norway and trophy fish grows more and more took us. those salmon that took the dry fly each year. In addition to the Salmon, so well in Newfoundland. The travel for serious fly fishermen there is also for Atlantic salmon that I ever time from the lodge to the nearby the challenge of Brook Trout, Arctic experienced happened to me in the rivers is short, and the watercourse, Char, and Sea run Brook Trout. Newfie drought of 1999. It was a current and bottom structures were While fishing the Salmon River The most difficult fly fishing terrible year for a fly fishing tourist very similar to the rivers I had fished and Southwest brook quite extensively to be in Newfoundland because in Norway. The similarity of the in those days, I was also lucky to deal DFO (The Department of Fisheries river systems was very important to with some exceptional weather as & Oceans) had closed most rivers in test and evaluate my Norwegian fly well. I ran into very cold temperatures the south and southwest already. It fishing techniques in an objective and experienced very high water was a really bad year for most of the manner. Some of my conclusions I levels, but also had to fight a serious fishing lodges as well. The fishing will relate to you in the more specific heat wave in which the water had in Mainbrook also had become very fishing sections within this story. dropped to dramatic levels. poor, even with plenty of fish in the In the past, I always found a Air temperatures around 10 river. Using small dry or wet flies good run of grilse in the Southwest degrees Celsius and lots of rain during was useless, which we had already brook and Salmon River. The salmon our 1997 trip were responsible for us discovered by experience in the fishing season begins in late June not doing so well with our dry flies, south, and I wracked my brain to and continues to the early days of but we finally succeed while using wet find a solution. It is not that I can’t September. The Atlantic salmon in flies in much bigger sizes than most stand it when catches are poor or this area weighs, on average, between local people used. My Bondal series nothing; it is more the kick to catch | 86 | Chasing Silver Fly Fishing Magazine Tuckamore Land one when everybody fails. It was under the surface, and when I could was too slow and I didn’t strike or set always a personal challenge when move it with a very slow retrieval, it the hook either. No, it was hooked people would tell me that fishing maybe could work. It’s a technique properly, and it was a big salmon and will be useless. Realize well that we that is extremely popular for catching it gave me a really good fight. About were fishing with air temperatures whitefish by fly, and if you know that I 20 minutes later, the same happened. far over 30 degrees Celsius, with no use several of my grayling techniques Again and again it was a salmon and rain for several weeks. There were no to hook salmon by dry fly, why this another one, landed and released other fishermen as crazy as we were, couldn’t work as well? I prepared a before an hour was finished. In just but therefore we had the rivers to new leader and tied on a 4 lb. almost 2 hours I had caught the day limit ourselves and that is an unbelievable 2 meter long tippet, instead of the and all were salmon, and if no one feeling. I think a lot of people can’t normal 6 lb. I believed any trick to had seen it, you probably would not understand us, but if you are fishing present the nymph as deep as possible believe it. wild places and salmon are leaping under the surface could improve my everywhere, it is still very enjoyable chances. just to be there. While I studied the When my equipment was ready, Now, in present days and almost ten years after my last visit, I could not wait to see how the fishing Salmon river well, I discovered that I gave it another try, and at first it had further developed. I was totally at several places the current was didn’t look very hopeful. I started amazed because the salmon runs rather slow, almost dead. When to experiment by giving the nymph had improved again, and success most fish rolled at the edge of each more time to get down, and started in fly fishing had increased a lot current, it came to my mind to try to to use the Brooks method to present as well. There also were some new tempt some fish by using some small the nymph as deep as possible. Maybe salmon rivers to try, and we did some unweighted nymphs. I never tried a dozen of casts later I hooked a fish, amazing fly fishing in one of the it before in Atlantic Canada, so the and it felt like a big one, too. I was estuaries. It is now estimated that challenge was born. I could use the afraid I false-hooked it, but I also dead water to let the nymph sink well had my doubts because the retrieval ➥ www.chasingsilvermagazine.com | 87 | Tuckamore Land about twelve to eighteen thousand darkness was completely new to strength for their upstream journey young Atlantic salmon return to the me. The fishing is allowed until 100 and spawning. nearby rivers each year. I knew that meters before the underground hole Tuckamore Lodge would deliver many and it is absolutely worth to give it a fishing, and I always have to keep in catches to their visitors each day, and try! mind what Lee Wullf once told me: when it keeps improving like this, the fly fishing at Tuckamore will be something really special for the future “The only definite thing that you can Lessons learned by experiences and a good observation as well. For less experienced fly fishers I don’t like rules for salmon say about salmon, is that you can not say anything definite about them” and I really believe this rather strongly. From earlier lessons and experiences, Another striking lesson that I or when it is simply too windy to fish I have learned that as soon the air learned well in Atlantic Canada was the Salmon River or Southwest River temperature got higher than the that fishing rising water was not so it is very nice to visit the Beaver Creek water temperature, that is when you good across the Atlantic, but from and also have a look at the famous can start using dry flies for salmon. the time it has peaked and started to “underground hole” which can be It is even used as a rule of thumb by drop, it is prime time for many rivers. seen was a real geological wonder. As several of my close friends, but when (In Norway however, the best wet far as I understood is this the only air and water temperature gets too fly fishing for salmon I experienced place in the world where Atlantic warm it doesn’t work anymore, of was exactly the opposite, and caught salmon swim through underground course. When in mid summer the most fish during rising water) In both chambers and holes to reach their water temperature gets too warm and places I found dry fly fishing the best spawning grounds. I heard stories the oxygen have dropped to critical at normal and low water levels. that blind salmon reached their level, most salmon hiding in deep lies spawning grounds but that they with their nose down at the bottom to see fish move to be successful, and migrate underground in complete and prevent any activity to save their if you are in a pool that you know To fish a dry fly, you do not have holds fish, you can cover the water in a general way just as effectively as with any wet fly. I often fish a good looking pool with the picture of an empty chess board (or blank spreadsheet) in my mind, which I place over the pool. I only number the rows, and use the columns for when I start moving in the water. The nearest row I give number one, and I make the rows as long as the fish can have their lies. I don’t walk through the pool right away, but just fish it from the most upstream position first, and try to cover as many rows and squares as I can by casting slightly upstream and working my way downstream through my invisible grid. Every time I fish for salmon, I see lots of people getting in the water as far and deep as possible, and take their position exactly at the place were the salmon have their lies. The next mistake they make is | 88 | Chasing Silver Fly Fishing Magazine Tuckamore Land tannic acid colour that you see in many rivers in Atlantic Canada. It was a huge link to my successes in Norway, because most rivers in which I succeed all had concentrations of tannic acid. Unfortunately, I never performed any serious testing with regard to the correct concentration of tannic acid, which I really regret nowadays. On both sides of the Atlantic, I discover that when rivers are getting low, and fish stay longer in the pools, they come up for much smaller flies. I strongly believe that the longer salmon stay in one pool, the better or stronger their old feeding memory returns. I remember very well how I did my fly fishing in three huge pools directly below a big waterfall in the Nordelva river in Norway. At the time, this place did not have any road access at all. It is one of the few rivers casting too far out, and letting their keep them down, so in those rivers, that I know of, where salmon first flies cover water that actually holds no the above method is a powerful trick start to run upstream when the river fish at all. Therefore in small rivers, that works extremely well. is extremely low, because the only I even try to not get in the water at By other experiences and way for them to get up this waterfall all when I begin with this useful and observations in my dry fly fishing, was at very low water. The pools are very powerful trick. When I have a I discovered that there isn’t so deep and hold hundreds of fish, but I pool all to myself, I always will start much difference in fishing large or only succeeded when fish start head as much upstream as I can, and try small rivers, as long you know the and tailing, and while using small to cover as many rows and squares places that hold fish. However, a flies presented with an absolutely as possible. Each square I imagine smaller river has my preference, and drag free drift. The fish only porpoise about eight steps wide and long. personally I love fishing rivers that are for about 20 minutes, and only once This makes the fishing both much about 40-50 ft wide, because you can every four hours or so, but each time more effective and well organized. cover all the water from just one bank. I caught fish, and that has been going If I have finished all the rows within In spite of this preference, I my casting range, I make eight steps have had some great experiences with had exactly the same experiences in downstream. I do exactly the same fly fishing in estuaries, sea pools and several of Newfoundland’s rivers too. process, starting from my second brackish water in Norway, I hardly The most extreme example of any column and by starting, covering row have had any in Atlantic Canada, and small fly success is my catch of four number one first. This is how I work my recent experiences have led me to grilse in the same day on a # 16 dry fly myself through the entire pool, with believe that it matters not how far you in the Salmon River, and all fish were casts sometimes not much longer are away from the sea when using a head and tailers. ■ then 10-12 ft. dry fly in the rivers in Newfoundland. I am a big fan of long drifts, but I really don’t like coloured on like that for many years. I have The story continues in the next issue, and I also discovered that in some waters, water for dry fly fishing, and I Hans will be digging deep on catching too many long drifts scare the fish and absolutely don’t mean the brown Atlantic salmon with dry flies. www.chasingsilvermagazine.com | 89 |