golden legacies ornate horology

ASIA PACIFIC EDITION
golden
legacies
Bulgari
Mousson
Robert Mazlo
PLUS:
Emma Stone
Wearable Tech
Multi-Finger Rings
76
April — May 2015
ornate
horology
Rose Gold Watches
SIHH Masterpieces
Ruby-Set Timepieces
T he
Gold
Edition
robertobravo.com
Noah’s Ark Collection
Then a wind blew on earth's surface.
Waters became descending. Skies were covered.
Rain calmed down.
gold . diamond . ruby . color sapphire . tourmaline . enamel . handmade
Goldheart Jewel Galleria . ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, #B2-65 Singapore 238801 t: +65 6509 8832
Noah’s Ark Collection
SIGN IN
nnovation. Technology. Progress. Hallmarks of the
human spirit, without which we would still dwell in
caves, adorning ourselves with bones on strings. But
progress also threatens and disrupts, especially in the
arena of cutting-edge technology. As media people, we are standing
at the very centre of a perfect storm, brought on by the explosion
of digital and social media. Car makers are staring down the barrels
of guns pointed at them by the likes of Apple and Google. Taxis are
fighting with Uber, retailers with Amazon, and so on. And now, the
luxury industry is starting to feel the heat, and especially so jewellers
and watchmakers.
In the 1970s, the ascent of quartz timepieces almost silenced the
venerable Swiss watch industry forever. It collectively fought back
with snazzy designs, a gumption for marketing and — yes — cutting
edge technology. Complicated Swiss watches went on to conquer
hearts and minds of buyers everywhere. Now the stakes are raised
once more. If print media is greatly challenged by smartphones
and tablets — the first wave of personal tech — watchmakers and
jewellers suddenly find themselves grappling with its second wave,
the proliferation of ‘’wearable tech’’.
The “tablet generation” sees technology just as personal and
individual as their parents see their jewellery and watches. And
thus begins another epic battle for the hearts and minds of a future
clientele, this time for a highly tech-oriented and digitally-dependent
one. A brand new arena, where aesthetics, purpose and function will
have to find a way not only to coexist, but merge. And where, in our
opinion, the future of watch and jewellery making will be decided.
We will observe and report as the battle unfolds.
Thank you for reading this, our annual Gold Edition, filled with
gilded treasures. There is nothing quite like it anywhere.
Rainer Sigel
Publisher
8
CONTENT
8
SIGN IN
The Second Coming
14
TEAM
18
BOUTIQUE
New & Exclusive
FACETS
36
ALTERNATE CHARISMA
Transformable fine jewellery
72
THE MAGENTA SEDUCTION
Passion, power and pizazz by crimson jewels
92
CROSSING ALL DIGITS
Stand out in these elegant multi-finger rings
106
SENTIMENTAL STRANDS
Pendants for your most affectionate affairs
TIMELESS
58
PINK INCARNATIONS
80
THE SCARLET SUPREMACY
The enduring style of rose gold watches
Horological masterpieces enhanced by the passion
of ruby
98
THE ROYAL COURT OF HOROLOGY
Nine exemplary women’s timepieces from SIHH
98
INTERVIEW
84
TALES FROM THE BLUE GROTTO
Chantecler — Jewellery inspired by the island of Capri
DESIGN
28
A GLIMPSE OF DIVINITY
Nubian civilisation seen through jewellery
40
CONSPIRACY OF CHIC
Smart jewellery goes for aesthetics & functionality
54
THE MEMORY RELAY
Roberto Mazlo’s ornamental jewels
62
A HYMN TO NATURE AND LIFE
Mousson’s romantic fine jewellery
66
TROVE OF GRANDEUR
An iconic jewellery museum in the heart of Vicenza
54
10
74
THE AURELIAN LEGACY
Bulgari’s testimony to timeless beauty
94
LOSS & REBIRTH
A look at the ancient Japanese art of kintsugi
102
THE GOLD MENAGERIE
Beth Gilmore’s love affair with elaborate patterns
SOLO COLLECTION.
Bangkok - SCINTILLA GIOIELLI
Kuala Lumpur - SUEN JEWELLERS
Jakarta - CROWN JEWELLERY
Singapore - ATELIER ONE
CONTENT
18
KNOWLEDGE
88
A BRUSH OF BLUSH
Rose gold brings radiant glow to jewellery
and timepieces
STYLE
32
GOLDEN GIRL
46
SHINING DAWN
Emma Stone takes Hollywood by charm
Elegant and fashionable interpretations
of gold
48
RED CARPET — STYLE INFINITY
A parade of panache at recent celebrity
soirées
70
LUCKY 8 TO WIN
78
HAUTE GEMS
Basic black meets glorious gold
Serene shades in Spring’s Couture
creations
REVIEWS
108
EXPRESSION OF BRILLIANCE
32nd Hong Kong International
Jewellery Show
110
PHOTO SHOOT
Gilded Temptations
ATELIER
32
12
120
GALAS
130
HOROSCOPE
132
RING GUIDE
Our bimonthly forecast
Where size matters
134
SHOW DIARY
136
TIME-HONOURED TREASURE
De Beer’s 24k gold-plated hourglass
HIGH JEWELLERY EXPERIENCE
ROME CAPRI TAORMINA PARIS LONDON GENEVA MADRID BARCELLONA VIENNA OSLO ISTANBUL ALMATY KIEV MOSKOV DNIPROPETROVS’K
BAKU DOHA JEDDAH RIYADH DUBAI HONG KONG SINGAPORE NEW YORK BOCA RATON CHICAGO BUENOS AIRES CARACAS MANILA
www.verdigioielli.com
REPRESENTATIVE OFFICE: 3905 SCOTTS SQUARE - SINGAPORE - +65-65389498 - [email protected]
TEAM
A passion for writing and discovering stories has
led Katrina Balmaceda to live and work as a
newspaper journalist in her hometown of Cebu,
Philippines, a business reporter in California,
USA, and a private aviation and a property editor
of Jetgala and Palace magazines in Singapore.
Now back in Cebu, she freelances for various
publications, teaches at a university, and enjoys
the tropical island life.
CONTENT
MANAGING EDITOR Rainer Sigel
ASSISTANT EDITOR Maripet Ledesma Poso
ASSISTANT EDITOR Koh Chuin Ying
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Syahmin Ritzwan
PRE-PRESS Maggie Shi
MASTHEAD Sylvia Weimer / Spacelab Design Sydney
CONTRIBUTORS
Aniko Navai, Nina Hald, Katrina A. Balmaceda, Shirley Moskow, Astrid Colley, David Yip,
Olive Cuenca, Preeta Agarwal, Carol Lee, Jonathan Ho, Sam Koh, Jennifer Henricus,
Laura Rysman, Desmond Lim, Ching, Dollei Seah, Greg Oh
Jennifer Henricus is a lifestyle and travel writer
who enjoys tracking international trends in
architecture, interior design and fashion. The
globetrotter lived in Hong Kong, London and
Melbourne before finally settling in her home
town, Colombo, Sri Lanka. She is happiest when
sharing her city’s secrets with visiting friends.
COMPANY
PUBLISHER Rainer Sigel
MANAGING DIRECTOR Michelle Tay
ASSISTANT MANAGER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Gynn Lee
ASSISTANT MANAGER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Edna Chai
CIRCULATION & PRODUCTION MANAGER Caroline Rayney
OFFICE MANAGER Winnie Lim
MARKETING ASSISTANT Anne Goh
CONTACT
120 Lower Delta Road #13-11
Cendex Centre, Singapore 169208
T: +65 6273 0620
F: +65 6273 0632
Sam Koh is Oriental Publishing’s newest
contributor. He specialises in writing about cars
and luxury timepieces. When not test driving new
cars or dreaming about the next watch to invest in,
he spends time with his wife and two daughters,
plays golf or tennis, or has his nose in a book.
EMAILS
ADVERTISING [email protected]
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Opinions expressed are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by
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COPYRIGHT NOTICE
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(L-R:) The talented team behind this issue’s photo shoot: Syahmin
Ritzwan, Gynn Lee, Greg Oh, Kira, Koh Chuin Ying, Ching, Dollei Seah
and Desmond Lim
TRADEMARK NOTICE
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Printed by KHL Printing Co, Singapore
MCI(P)047/04/2015
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COVER PHOTO CREDITS
PHOTOGRAPHY Ching
STYLING Desmond Lim
HAIR Greg Oh
MAKEUP Dollei Seah
MODEL Kira | Upfront
ON MODEL
JEWELLERY DAMIANI
ATELIER OPENER
Image courtesy of Chaumet
14
BOUTIQUE
Inspired by the Zip necklace worn by
the Duchess of Windsor, Van Cleef
& Arpels introduces the Cadenas
iconic timepiece at the recent Salon
International de la Haute Horlogerie
2015. “A jewel that tells the time”, the
watch features a double-snake chain
acting as a bracelet and has lines that
resembles a padlock. The Cadenas
Sertie watch has a mother-of-pearl
dial and is available in yellow gold
adorned with diamonds.
www.vancleefarpels.com
Schreiner Fine Jewellery extends its La Fleur series with a
handmade Haute Joaillerie Diamond and White South Sea Pearl
Suite collection. It consists of a necklace, ring and earrings set
adorned with round diamonds, natural fancy yellow diamonds and
white South Sea pearls in white gold. www.schreiner-jewellery.com
Moraglione launches the Ingrid collection that features
elegant rose gold sets. A charming pink gold arm candy,
this bracelet allows you to keep you favourite mementos
close by with interchangeable charms in rose, yellow
and white gold. www.moraglione.com
18
A geometrically dynamic collection
by Selberan, the Ilona Luxe
collection has a one-of-a-kind
shape that is modern and luxurious
at the same time. The yellow
gold Ilona series features structured
triangle 18k yellow gold grids that
create a three-dimensional effect,
embellished with carefully
positioned sparkling Selberan
diamonds. www.selberan.com
Italian jeweller Chimento
recommends the latest Armillas
yellow gold bangles. The bangles
feature faceted geometric shapes
and soft flexible details of different
textures. Stack the bangles
together, alternating between
different textures, to create an
edgy look. www.chimento.it
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BOUTIQUE
Jaquet Droz brings a Venetian
Golden Age twist to the Grande
Seconde Cerclee, Lady 8 and
Petite Heure Minute 35mm designs
with the Sunstone. Embellished with
flecks of gold scintillate on its dial, this
timepiece is designed to capture splinters
of light. www.jaquet-droz.com
Channel your inner deity
with Lalique’s Soleil De Gaia
collection. This yellow gold
ring is paved with 92 diamonds,
68 black spinels, two pear
cabochon-cut hematites, one
cabochon-cut opal triplet and
engraved white mother-ofpearl. www.lalique.com
Sporting a fuchsia
dress, Anne
Hathaway graced
the 19th Annual
Art Directors
Guild Awards with an Antonini Aurea diamond cuff.
Featuring 577 diamonds set in white gold, the wavy cuff
almost took the spotlight away from the American actress.
www.antonini.it
Known for their bejewelled bangles, Verdi is constantly coming
up with new and innovative designs that keep old and new
collectors excited. Founded in 1971, the Italian jewellery brand
ventures into new materials – mixing the past, present and
future in terms of design inspirations. www.verdigioielli.com
Taking inspiration from the fluttering of butterfly wings and the beauty of flowers, Palmiero
designed the Winged Flowers as a celebration of the harmony between animals and nature.
The collection features a range of rings embellished with diamonds and coloured stones in
white gold. www.palmierogioielli.com
20
BOUTIQUE
To commemorate its 60th anniversary,
Corum launched the Admiral’s
Cup Legend 42 Flying Tourbillon
timepiece. It features a bridge and base
plate made of stainless steel that has
the strength to achieve a visual effect
of the tourbillon floating while it makes
one revolution a minute. In 18k red gold,
the timepiece features a smoked sapphire
crystal dial with hourly nautical pennants
that pays tribute to the nautical heritage of the
Admiral’s Cup. www.corum.ch
The official jewellery
partner to the EE British
Academy Film Awards
(BAFTA), Yoko London
features this pair of elegant
drop pearl earrings. They
highlight a pair of 12-13mm
South Sea pearls in 18k
yellow gold encrusted with
0.49ct dazzling diamonds.
www.yokolondon.com
Continental Diamond introduces this
18k yellow gold bracelet from the Woven
Jewellery collection. With intricate details
and superb craftsmanship, this statement
piece stands out on its own. Match it with a
plain black dress for a night out or an afterwork event. www.continentaldiamond.com
Setting the gold standard, Goldgenie created a 24k gold road bicycle adorned with
diamonds. The company provides bespoke services by giving different finishes
on the saddle and handlebars, including exotic skins and fine leathers to suit
customers’ tastes. Supplied by British company Giant, the bicycle is the first in the
range to be gold-plated by Goldgenie. www.goldgenie.com/gold-racing-bike.php
22
American actress Julia Roberts walked down the
Screen Actors Guild Awards red carpet looking all chic
yet casual. She paired her black Givenchy jumpsuit
with Tiffany & Co drop earrings, bracelet and ring
that are embellished with custom-cut chrysoprase and
princess-cut diamonds in platinum. www.tiffany.com
BOUTIQUE
Founded in 1921, Schoeffel is one of the luxury
jewellery brands that embraces the beauty
of pearls. From the Couture Collection, the
Caleidoscope ring captures the gentle tides
of the seas with their wave-like design.
They feature golden South Sea pearls and
diamonds mounted in yellow gold.
www.schoeffel-pearl.com
Embracing the purity of love and romance, Roberto Bravo
introduces its latest White Dreams Collection featuring
rings, pendants, earrings and bracelets in 14k yellow gold.
The three-dimensional white flower features diamonds
and enamel. www.robertobravo.com
Chopard embraces the animal
world with the latest addition
to its Haute Joaillerie collection,
a hedgehog-shaped secret
watch. Flaunting the brand’s
exceptional gem-setting technique, the timepiece features 18k
white gold that is entirely paved with diamonds and encrusted
with moonstone spikes, creating a three-dimensional effect.
When opened, the timepiece reveals a tiny, baby hedgehog
holding a watch dial in its paws. www.chopard.com
Arguably more expensive than
diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines are
famous for their vividness. Qayten
carefully selects the best combination
of gems to create an elegant necklace
called Mongofiera. It features a chain
of Akoya pearls, accompanied with
sparkling diamonds and precious
Paraiba tourmalines, adding a touch of
colour to the piece. www.qayten.net
24
Hans D. Krieger ensures that every piece of
jewellery it creates embodies a timeless and classic
character. The brand takes pride in their attention
to minor details, releasing small series of exclusive
and exquisite pieces — just like these rings that
are available in both 18k rose and white gold,
which are encrusted with natural champagne and
colourless diamonds. www.kriegernet.com
BOUTIQUE
Gems Pavilion launches its latest collection
that features champagne-coloured diamonds.
A perfect complement to rose and yellow gold,
champagne-coloured diamonds accentuate
femininity and enhance romantic
vibe. Here, Solitaire picks an 18k
pink, yellow and white gold
earrings embellished with white,
champagne and yellow-coloured
diamonds. www.gemspavilion.com
All-rounder Hollywood star Jennifer Lopez attended the AOL
Build Speaker Series at AOL Studios in New York wearing a
Marli diamond ring and earrings set. To let her earrings do the
talking, Jennifer kept her hair up in a tight bun and wore a
minimalist top. www.marlinyc.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Joaillerie 101 Art Deco watch adorned with
round brilliant diamonds sparkled in the arm of German actress
and former fashion model Diane Kruger at the Elle Style Award
Party. The ultimate expression of elegance and femininity, the
dainty watch has reinvented the rules of the game of seduction
since the 16th century. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
26
Bibigi introduces its latest white
gold ring adorned with dazzling
diamonds and flowers made of
enamel. Its main feature is the
interchangeable top part, which
can be removed and replaced with
different designs from the Seasons
collection. www.bibigi.it
One of Solitaire’s favourite brand picks for classic,
timeless pieces is this limited edition ring by
Victor Mayer. With a total of 194 diamonds, this
statement ring boasts of electric blue fire enamel
and tanzanite in 18k white gold. There are only 25
pieces available. www.victormayer.com
The Science of Seductive Jewellery
www.qayten.net
DESIGN
JEWELS OF ANCIENT NUBIA
by Shirley Moskow
The life and times of a golden civilisation
seen through ancient jewellery
ince ancient times, we
have associated gold with
immortality. In many
cultures, myths, magic, fact
and fiction connect gold with powerful gods.
Material culture, too, sheds light on ancient
beliefs. Often, royalty used gold objects and
wore gold jewellery depicting deities, not
only to pay homage to gods, but also to claim
for themselves the attributes of divinity.
A major exhibition, Gold and The Gods:
Jewels of Ancient Nubia, on display at the
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, USA, through
May 14, 2017, takes us on a journey through
28
the Nubian civilisation. “The highly
sophisticated and dynamic cultures and
their spectacular jewellery demonstrate
the technical skill and aesthetic sensitivity
of Nubian artists,” says Denise Doxey,
curator of Ancient Egypt, Nubian, and N
ear Eastern Art.
Gold was most prized in Nubia, and
jewellery its most important product.
Archaeologists excavated gold artefacts in
Nubia, once an important trading crossroads
and cultural centre in the Nile Valley region,
now called Sudan. Gold jewellery and
other treasures bearing images of gods
Amulet of Hathor
nursing a queen, Nubian,
743-712 BC. Harvard
University-Boston
Museum of Fine Arts
Expedition
OPPOSITE PAGE
Bracelet with image
of Hathor, Nubian,
Meroitic Period, 250-100
BC. Gold, enamel.
Harvard UniversityBoston Museum of Fine
Arts Expedition
Photos courtesy of
Museum of Fine Arts,
Boston
29
DESIGN
30
OPPOSITE PAGE
(CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT)
Winged Goddess
Pectoral, Nubian,
Napatan Period, Reign of
Piankhy (Piye), 743-712
BC. Faience. Harvard
University-Boston
Museum of Fine Arts
Expedition
Mask of Queen
Malakaye, Nubian,
Napatan Period, Reign
of Tanwetamani, 664-653
BC. Gilt silver. Harvard
University-Boston
Museum of Fine Arts
Expedition
Necklace with human
and ram's head pendants,
Nubian, Meroitic Period,
270-50 BC. Gold and
carnelian. Harvard
University-Boston
Museum of Fine Arts
Expedition
Hathor-headed crystal
pendant, Nubian,
Napatan Period, Reign of
Piankhy (Piye), 743-712
BC. Gold, rock crystal.
Harvard UniversityBoston Museum of Fine
Arts Expedition
THIS PAGE
Double Hathor-head
earring, Meroitic
Period, 90 BC-50 AD.
Gold, enamel. Harvard
University-Boston
Museum of Fine Arts
Expedition
Photos courtesy of the
Museum of Fine Arts,
Boston
were discovered in royal burial chambers.
The walls were decorated with murals that
showed how the Kushites — the indigenous
African people of Nubia — wore their
necklaces, collars, bracelets, breastplates
and rings. The Kushites also decorated the
heads of horses with gold bead nets. Gold
was sacred and ancient people wore gold
jewellery for divine protection. Egyptian
deities like the sun-god, Ra, and the goddess
of love and motherhood, Hathor,
were popular in Nubia. In addition,
Nubian artists acquired new skills like
faience and enamelling, which they
expressed in innovative designs.
They enhanced the gold pieces
with rare stones such as
lapis lazuli, rock crystal,
carnelian, malachite and
quartz brought by traders
from Mediterranean lands as
far away as Afghanistan.
The borders between
Nubia and Egypt shifted
several times over the
millennia. In 1902, when
Egypt built the first Aswan
Dam, rising waters
threatened to flood many
ancient historical sites.
Irreplaceable Nubian
artefacts would be
lost forever. Therefore,
in 1907, Egypt asked
for assistance in
documenting the area
between the dam and
the Sudanese border. The international
community responded, joining The
Archaeological Survey of Nubia. It was a
race against time. Harvard University and the
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, were among
the first to carry out scientific excavations
in Sudan. They continued working in the
region through two world wars until 1947.
They played a major role in the discovery
and excavation of ancient Nubian civilisation.
As was the practice at the time, Egypt
rewarded them for their contributions with
half the objects they discovered. That gift
made the museum the repository of the
finest collection of Nubian jewellery outside
Egypt.
A gold bracelet from about 100 BCE
with images of Hathor incorporates the
new technology of enamelling. Coloured
enamel in the traditional Egyptian colours
of red, green and blue fill negative spaces in
the decoration. Another artefact, a double
Hathor head earring, depicts a lotus flower
with enamel inlay. Ra was believed to have
emerged from a lotus flower. A spectacular
winged goddess pectoral (743-712
BCE) depicts a nude, winged faience
goddess crowned with a sun disk,
uraeus (serpent) and feathers.
Ostrich feathers were prized.
Archaeologists also excavated
men’s jewellery, including
numerous signet rings.
“The remarkable jewels
and decorative objects in
this exhibition illustrate the
ingenuity, sophistication and
skill of Nubian craftsmen,”
says Yvonne J. Markowitz,
the curator who helped
prepare the display at
the Museum of Fine
Arts. “The land itself
was an important
source of gold, which
Nubian metalsmiths
worked to create
stunning adornments
meant to last an eternity.
Gilding, casting, granulation (decorating
gold sheets with small spheres of precious
metal), repouseé (creating relief patterns
by hammering from the underside) and
enamelling were some of the techniques
perfected in Nubia.”
Gold and the Gods: Jewels of Ancient Nubia
is an unrivalled, world-class exhibition of
precious objects — a reminder that the
land was the hub of an important trade
civilisation and the crossroads of culture in
the ancient world.
31
STYLE
32
EMMA STONE
by Aniko Navai
Funny, versatile and very likeable,
Emma Stone takes Hollywood by charm
Emma’s diamond cuffs
in 18k yellow and white
gold from the 2015
Tiffany Blue Book
collection, TIFFANY
& CO
OPPOSITE PAGE
Academy Award
nominee Emma Stone
wearing
a chartreuse
At the premiere
of The
custom-made
Elie Saab
Bridge in Los Angeles,
gown
Tiffany
cuffs
Krugerand
wore
a Jonathan
at
the Oscars
Saunders
dress2015
Photo
Image Credit:
courtesySteve
of Rex
Granitz/WireImage
Features
resh from her Oscar
experience, her first
nomination as the
outspoken yet adorable
daughter of Michael Keaton in the Academy
Award Winner movie Birdman, Emma
Stone — Hollywood’s latest ‘It’ girl —
remains modest and unpretentious. “Well
this is surreal. I am completely knocked
out,” she says with a deep throaty laugh.
“I am very proud and lucky to be part of
Birdman and I can’t believe it came to this.”
Born in 1988 in Scottsdale, Arizona,
Emily Jean Stone joined a local children’s
theatre at age 11, where she performed in
numerous plays. She was part of an improv
troupe — an experience that sparked her
interest in becoming a comedy actress. At
14, the then budding comic ingeniously
made a PowerPoint presentation titled
Project Hollywood 2004 to convince her
parents to allow her to move to Los Angeles.
The tactics worked; she uprooted her
family and got herself a sitcom in the pilot
season. It was just a matter of time before
the studios discovered the versatility of
this bubbly redhead. Suddenly, she was
in different films, from the Spider-Man
franchise, to independent features such as
The Help and now, Birdman. On her way to
becoming a golden girl, she has also become
a fashion and beauty icon, lending her face
to various brands.
Although she loves wearing jewellery to
events and in films — she was seen rocking
a stunning Tiffany diamond cuffs to the
Oscars and a series of elegant Van Cleef
& Arpels pearl pieces on the set of Magic
in the Moonlight — Emma is a jewellery
minimalist. What’s more, she admits to
being inept when it comes to them. “I lose
jewellery like it’s my job,” she laughs.
33
STYLE
Emma at the 21st Screen
Actors Guild Awards in
Los Angeles, wearing
diamond ear cuffs by
Repossi
Danse du Lion long
necklace, which Emma
wore in the film Magic
in the Moonlight, VAN
CLEEF & ARPELS
from scratch. And the fact that they make
them by hand is stunning.
I cannot please anybody but myself. If I
was trying to appear beautiful to everyone
I’d be in a real losing battle because it’s so
subjective. I look at Diane Keaton in the
L’Oreal commercials and Ellen DeGeneres
in Cover Girl and thought, ‘you guys are
funny, you have personality, you are exactly
what beauty should be’. They are an
inspiration to young girls who don’t feel
like they need to look like a model to be
beautiful. It’s not my job to be beautiful.
It’s my job to be an actor and to try to be as
human as possible on a daily basis. If there’s
anything that I could try, it is to inspire
people to be themselves.
I wear the same thing every day. In fact, I
had a pair of pants, it just ripped right down
the centre because I just wore them every
day, so I bought a new pair of the same ones.
And I’m wearing those ones through. I don’t
really think too much about fashion. I kind
of have like a uniform I guess at this point.
I love Lanvin a lot. But Calvin Klein made
one of the coolest dresses I’ve ever gotten
to wear. Being more exposed to fashion has
been really interesting because you see the
artisanship behind creating these dresses
34
I’ve seen more more clothes, that’s all. And
everything is just mine for the day, and then
I have to give it back at the end of the day.
It’s always a sort of Cinderella thing. But
I know what I like to wear or what I think
looks all right. The red carpet is a little bit
overwhelming just because it’s a lot all at
once. I’ve worked with the same people
on hair and make-up since I was 17, so
whenever we’re together we just talk about
life and have fun. I have ended up becoming
really close friends with the people that help
create that, and that changes it because it’s
just a kind of collaborative fun experience.
No, I’ve never thought about that! Though
it would be super cool if everyone started
wearing yellow leather shoes like mine.
No. I can live without any beauty product. I
need food, water and shelter. And shoes. I’m
allergic to almost everything. But I’ve been
filling my eyebrows in lately. And I’ve been
using mascara. I mean, I wear mascara every
day. And any girl who says she doesn’t is
lying!
FACETS
TRANSFORMABLE JEWELLERY
by Preeta Agarwal
Transformable
yet wearable fine
jewellery that delights
and surprises
Schreiner presents a handmade two
row pearl necklace with white South
Sea pearls and diamonds, featuring an
emerald and opal brooch on one side.
With a total of 29.53ct diamonds, 10
pear-shaped emeralds, 57.57ct opals
and 58 pearls, this necklace-brooch
masterpiece is a stunner. The vibrant
green emeralds bring out the
colours of the opals with
a pure white pearl and
diamond backdrop.
The detachable
brooch is in itself
an eye catcher and
can be worn to
accentuate any
dress or coat.
36
ewellery pieces that can be converted
into alternate treasures are a delight
to wear. The surprise element adds a
subtle mystery and fresh versatility to the
jewellery, and this makes for a growing trend. Some
of the world’s largest names in jewellery have caught
up on the trend and started exploring the concept of
modular jewellery. Using the simplest mechanisms, the
unconventional concept is starting to redefine the way
we wear and look at jewellery.
Part of Chanel’s latest Café
Society collection, launched at
the Biennale de Antiquaires 2014,
is the Collier Tuxedo necklace. A
black and white masterpiece
crafted in 18k white gold with
diamonds and carved black onyx,
this necklace is one of most eyecatching pieces in the collection.
Imitating a thin black tie, the
elegant long Y-shaped necklace
has interchangeable parts that
can also be worn as a short round
necklace with just one large
central flower. A floral brooch,
reminiscent of the early 20th
century, can also be detached
from the same necklace.
Famous for their ideal cut
diamonds, Lazare is also known for
their simple yet unique jewellery.
The brand presents the Ringo
pendant as part of its Eternal
Links collection — a pendant that
can be worn in two ways. It consists
of five eternal rings joined together
in an increasing order of size, all
studded with a total of 61 Lazare
diamonds. The pendant can either
be worn horizontally with the chain
passing through all five links or can
be suspended from the top.
Inspired by the colours of water,
the aquamarine pendant necklace
is one of the subtle creations from
Chaumet’s latest Lumiere d’eau
collection. The white gold necklace’s
main attraction is the central pendant
featuring a 32.62ct aquamarine,
which can be detached and worn as a
brooch. Combinations of diamonds,
sapphires and aquamarines in
trillions and baguettes add a certain
edge to the central aquamarine. A
5.65ct aquamarine finishes off the
whole look as a little droplet hanging
from the clasp.
37
FACETS
Chow Tai Fook’s latest Disney
Princess collection brings in magic
and good luck, featuring fairy
dust and flying fairies. The centre
of attraction is the elegant white
gold all-diamond necklace with a
delicate butterfly perched on one
side. The butterfly flies off at times
and can turn itself into a brooch or
a hair ornament, depending on the
wearer’s wish. The necklace, with
fairy-like twirls and curls, comes with
matching rings and earrings.
This Garrard Tudor Rose Pearl necklace
is a result of intricate craftsmanship.
A multi-string marvel, it features a top
row of diamonds followed by five rows
of Japanese Akoya pearls, interspersed
with diamond-studded rose leaves on
both sides, holding the strings and
forming the clasp. The main element
of this elaborate beauty is the rose
itself, which can be worn as a one-side
element on the necklace or separately
as a brooch. The piece highlights a
3.99ct round Burmese ‘pigeon blood’
ruby centrepiece with a delicate ruby
and pearl tassel.
38
www.lilijewelry.com | [email protected] | [email protected]
is a trademark and proprietary design of Lili Diamonds
DESIGN
A model wearing a
Misfit Shine Fitness and
Sleep tracker
WEARABLE TECH
by Katrina A. Balmaceda with Rainer Sigel
Smart jewellery goes for
aesthetics, functionality
and technology
40
Ralph Lauren’s Polo
Tech Shirt
emember when the
connection between
the couture runway
and Silicon Valley
came mostly in the form of gem-encrusted
or leopard-print mobile phone cases? It was
only a matter of time until the digital world
and its disruptive technologies would come
knocking on the doors of the venerable
luxury industry. The first such assault — the
advent of the quartz watch in the 1970s —
almost knocked out the centuries-old Swiss
mechanical watch industry. In the end, they
recovered spectacularly, and over the past
decade in particular have gone from strength
to strength.
Now they may be called out yet again,
along with fine jewellers everywhere, and at
an urgency unimaginable even a year ago.
In retrospect, it should surprise nobody that
the two industries would jointly explore a
field that is changing the way we connect to
people and things — wearable technology.
The ascending “tablet generation” sees
technology as immensely personal in terms
of function and need, much like their
parents see their mechanical watches and
fine jewellery. All it took was for technology
to move away from boxy and cold aesthetics,
and towards elegance and design. And that
point has arrived.
Joining forces means understanding
each side’s vision and appeal, as well as
limitations. As with any new product,
questions hover. How personal can a device
get, and how functional can or should a
fashion accessory be? How much technology
can be crammed into a tiny space and
how much power does it consume? Most
of all, would a piece of ‘wearable tech’ one
day become such an important part of our
routines that it would be worth going back
home to, halfway to the office or a party, if
one realises it was left behind?
Some questions are beginning to find
answers. For instance, the concern over the
fickleness of fashion — and thus the desire
to change a device’s look — is addressed
with changeable bands for smartwatches,
and pendant choices for necklaces and
rings. Others are harnessing the wearer’s
motion to power a device. Even couture is
getting involved — Ralph Lauren offers the
Polo Tech Shirt for athletes, designers are
experimenting with solar garments, and a
startup has revealed a prototype of a belt that
tightens or loosens on its own to maximise
the wearer’s comfort. Potential future
developments include flexible screens, smart
contact lenses, electronic payments, and even
the use of wearable gadgets as car keys.
Solitaire looks at a few ‘wearable tech’
pieces with promising solutions for
channelling one’s inner geek and goddess.
41
DESIGN
The Artemis jewellery line by Sense6 Design and the Cuff
collection by Deepa Sood both allow wearers to alert their loved
ones and contact police, medical or fire personnel in emergency
cases. The Artemis module may be attached to any compatible
piece of jewellery by the brand, including necklaces and
bracelets, and comes with an audio recorder that lets a security
operator hear what’s going on. To send an alert, the wearer must
press it three times in rapid succession. A battery charge lasts
two weeks. Cuff, worn on the wrist, contacts other Cuff wearers
or sends SOS messages — along with vital information such as
your medical history and insurance provider — to your friends’
phones through an app. A single charge powers it for seven days.
An alternative to current fitness
trackers is Misfit’s Bloom Necklace, a
stainless steel necklace with a pendant
carved in an open floral pattern. This
pendant serves as a carrying case
for Shine, a fitness tracker and sleep
monitor — also by Misfit — that comes
in several colours. It connects to an app
that lets you set goals and compare your
progress with that of your friends. Shine
runs on a watch battery to eschew the
need for charging.
You can put away your phone and focus on your dinner date with the
Memi bracelet by Leslie Pierson and Margaux Geurard or with Ringly,
made in New York City by a small team. Both connect to your phone
through an app and discreetly vibrate when you receive a message,
a phone call from selected contacts, or a calendar alert. To stop
vibrations for an incoming phone call, tap your Memi twice, or
completely turn it off by pushing a barely-there side button.
Charging produces five days of power. Stone options for the 18k
gold Ringly are black onyx, pink sapphire, rainbow moonstone,
emerald, and tourmalated quartz. When the battery runs low every
two days, simply place the ring on its box, which doubles as a charger.
42
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Cuff bracelets
Artemis pendant
Misfit’s Bloom
necklaces
Ringly in pink sapphire
Memi bracelets
Fans of mechanical watches need not worry
— Swiss forays into Silicon Valley have so
far maintained classic horological aesthetics.
Montblanc’s TimeWalker Urban Speed e-Strap
tweaks only the band by adding a digital
display. The e-Strap measures, among other
things, walking speed, distance travelled,
and calories burned, and can also serve as a
remote control for your phone’s camera and
music player. It can also undertake typical
smartphone functions, such as reading SMS,
previewing email, checking social media
updates, and monitoring calls.
Union Horlogère Holding, which owns
Swiss watchmakers Frederique Constant
and Alpina, has partnered with Silicon Valley
company Fullpower Technologies to form
Manufacture Modules Technologies, which
plans to release 10 smartwatch models this
year under the banner Swiss Horological
Smartwatches. The details released so far
reveal classic analog dials, with the smart
functions embedded in a sub-dial at six
o’clock that comprises two concentric circles.
These show the date, a sleep indicator, and a
counter up to 100 —
information that gets
transmitted to an app on
your phone.
Apart from telling time, the muchawaited Apple Watch not only lets you
send and receive messages and calls
and dictate text messages — with your
fingertip, you can send a virtual tap
or even a drawing to fellow wearers.
Hold up your wrist to read a message;
lower it to dismiss it. It also comes
with a fitness monitor and location
tracker. A digital crown may be rotated
to zoom in and scroll, or pushed to
return to the home screen. One can
choose from two case sizes and a variety
of bands, including sporty straps and chic
chains.
A perhaps unexpected player in the
smartwatch field is LG, which is offering LG
Watch Urbane and takes visual cues from
classic timepieces. A clean face features
three sub-dials at six, nine and 12 o’clock.
Sensors include an accelerator, compass
and barometer, while functions include
measurements of pulse and heart rate, as
well as 4GB of storage. On the other hand,
Intel’s MICA (My Intelligent Communication
Accessory) avoids looking like a watch
with the help of fashion brand Opening
Ceremony. The smartbracelet hides a 1.6-inch
touchscreen that faces the wrist and displays
SMS, emails and social media
feeds. One version uses a black
watersnake skin base with pearls
from China and a lapis stone from
Madagascar, while another features
a white watersnake skin base
embellished with tiger’s eye stones
from South Africa and obsidian
from Russia.
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Montblanc TimeWalker
Urban Speed e-Strap
LG Watch Urbane
Apple Watch in rose
gold
Intel’s MICA
smartbracelet
43
DESIGN
Christophe & Co. chose Italian design house
Pininfarina — known for its sports-car designs
— in creating the limited-edition Armill,
a luxurious collection that uses 18k gold,
diamonds, precious stones, high-tech ceramic,
and carbon fibre in its frame. The result is a
sleek men’s bangle that can be individualised
according to the owner’s style, connectivity
needs, and even wrist size. An embedded
module lets the wearer summon valets and
personal assistants with a press of a button. It
can also serve as authentication for entry to
exclusive events and member’s clubs.
Armill owners enjoy 24/7 concierge service,
which is offered for free for a certain period
depending on the model — one year for
the entry-level Virtus, two years for Orion,
and three for the top-end Apollo. The
module may be updated as technology
advances, and possible future functions
include integration with smart home,
yacht, or vehicle, gesture recognition, and
contactless payment. The smartbracelet
comes with rotors typically found in
timepieces that generate power through
wrist movement.
And now, here’s something entirely
different — Netatmo’s June, a bracelet that
measures sun exposure. Its corresponding
mobile phone app tells you when your
UV exposure warrants a hat, sunglasses,
another layer of sunblock, or shade.
As an alternative to thick instruction manuals,
Zenith offers Zenith Watches — The
Experience, an app that guides owners of the
brand’s watches on usage, maintenance and
technical explanations. This will help watch
owners improve their timepieces’ lifespan and
understand their inner workings.
FROM TOP
Christophe & Co’s
Armill bangle
Netatmo’s June
bracelet
44
STYLE
MIX & MATCH
ome call it the world’s most seductive metal. Homer, author of The Iliad
and The Odyssey, referred to it as “the glory of the immortals and a sign of
wealth among ordinary humans.” For its beauty and splendour, the precious
element is central to ideas about identity and social status — so much
so that it has found its place in jewellery, dress and all things associated with luxury and
exclusivity. Solitaire puts together some of the prettiest, newest and most coveted items to buy
now and love forever — all in gold.
46
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Brooks earcuff, MARIA
BLACK; Magnipheasant
necklace, STEPHEN
WEBSTER; Gold Snake
bag, BULGARI; Cha Cha
Cha earrings, DANIELA
VILLEGAS; Luxurious
Moisture-rich lipstick in
Cipria, GUCCI; Cherub
heels, SOPHIA
WEBSTER at ON
PEDDER; Trapezoid link
bracelet, MONIQUE
PÉAN; Vanda velvet
clutch, DOLCE &
GABBANA; Rapunzel
ear cuffs, POLLY
WALES
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Interchangeable pink
gold, diamond and
pearl bar, ASHERALI
KNOPFER; Anette Gold
clutch, CHARLOTTE
OLYMPIA at ON
PEDDER; Vanguard
Lady V32 QZ R D
5N watch, FRANCK
MULLER; Chameleo
ring, VENYX
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP RIGHT
Gold heels,
AQUAZURRA at
ON PEDDER; Eros
gold earrings, ELENA
VOTSI; Sublimage
L'Essence, CHANEL;
Peace 18k pink gold
ring, LITO; L'Or
Radiance Concentrate
with Pure Gold,
GUERLAIN
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Vita Vitae Entwine
pendant, SARAH HO;
Addicta mirror, KOKET;
L'Or de Vie La
Cure, DIOR; Aviator
sunglasses, CHANEL
TOP RIGHT
Embellished
woven-cotton dress,
REED KRAKOFF;
Love Story perfume,
CHLOÉ; Grande
Seconde Circled Lady
timepiece, JAQUET
DROZ; Flip ring,
TILDA BIEHN
47
STYLE
RED CARPET TRENDS
This year’s Oscar Best
Actress Julianne Moore
in a custom-made
Chanel gown and
Chopard jewellery
by Maripet Ledesma Poso
A parade of panache at recent
celebrity soirées
hey came. They sparkled. They conquered — our
hearts, that is. From London to Los Angeles, from
the BAFTAs to the Oscars, stars did what they
do best on the red carpet: mesmerise. This year’s
red carpet pinnacles were all about clean silhouettes, uncluttered
ensembles and understated elegance. Red and white were the
wardrobe colours of choice, while pearls and diamonds still reigned
supreme in the jewellery department.
48
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Best Actress nominee
Felicity Jones looked
all regal and glamorous
in an Alexander
McQueen ball gown
and vintage Van Cleef
& Arpels jewels
Reese Witherspoon in
Tom Ford gown and
Tiffany jewellery
Marion Cotillard in
a Dior gown and
Chopard jewellery
Lupita Nyong’O in a
Calvin Klein gown and
Chopard jewellery
In Hollywood, fashion furore was thick
in the air as stars once again stole the
spotlight, this time for the 87th Academy
Awards. Resplendence was the name
of the game — celebrities decked in
white and alabaster numbers accented
with exquisite diamonds glowed and
shimmered, to the fans’ delight. Best
actress winner Julianne Moore, who
was magnificent in her portrayal of an
Alzheimer’s sufferer in Still Alice, stunned
in a custom-made Chanel gown and
Chopard diamond rings and earrings. So
did Oscar favourites Marion Cotillard,
who rocked her Dior haute couture
number with diamond earrings, and
Lupita Nyong’O, who was sensational in
a Calvin Klein custom-design pearl gown
and diamond drop earrings. Looking
all dazzling in a monochrome Tom Ford
gown and Tiffany pieces was Reese
Witherspoon, who was nominated for her
role in Wild.
49
STYLE
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
A pearl and diamonds
ring, which Sarah Jane
Crawford wore to
the BAFTAs, YOKO
LONDON
Emilia Fox in a vintage
Temperley silk dress
A stunning pair of
pearl earrings, which
Emilia Fox wore to the
BAFTA Gala Dinner,
YOKO LONDON
Sarah Jane Crawford
in an Ariella Couture
pink dress
A dainty pearl and
diamonds bangle,
which Kara Tointon
wore to the BAFTAs,
YOKO LONDON
Kara Tointon in a gold
Julien Mcdonald Art
Deco-inspired gown
The Brits know how to strut their stuff.
The recent 68th British Academy Film
Awards, the BAFTAs, once again proved this.
Yoko London was on hand to make sure this
happened, with the luxury pearl jeweller as
official jewellery partner of BAFTA 2015.
Seen in some of their finest and rarest pieces
were nominees, presenters and event VIP’s.
Mr Selfridge star Kara Tointon sizzled in
a gold Julien Mcdonald Art Deco-inspired
gown with a stack of Yoko London pearl and
diamond bracelets paired with a dainty underthe-finger ring. Looking all sweet and crisp
was television and radio presenter Sarah Jane
Crawford, who matched her Ariella Couture
pink dress with silver Jimmy Choo heels, and
finished off the ensemble with a simple Yoko
London ring and bracelet. Meanwhile, veteran
TV actress Emilia Fox was a refreshing
sight at the BAFTA Gala dinner in a vintage
Temperley silk dress and pearl jewellery, also
from Yoko London.
50
FACETS
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Actress Alma
Jodorowsky at the
BAFTAs
A stunning necklace in
pearl and diamonds,
worn by one of the
VIPs at the BAFTAs,
YOKO LONDON
British radio DJ Edith
Bowman
A gorgeous pair of
front-back pearl and
diamond earrings, which
Edith Bowman wore to
the BAFTAs, YOKO
LONDON
Under-the-finger pearl
ring, which Alma
Jodorowsky wore to the
BAFTAs
51
STYLE
52
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Supermodel Behati
Prinsloo in a Kaufman
Franco gown and
De Grisogono jewellery
Naomi Watts in a Gucci
column gown and Bulgari
clutch and jewellery
Oscar veteran Kate
Blanchett wearing a
turquoise, aquamarine
and diamond necklace
from Tiffany at the Oscars
Teardrop-shaped Gocce
earrings and Jiya ring,
worn by Behati Prinsloo
to the Golden Globes,
DE GRISOGONO
A close-up of Naomi’s
Bulgari clutch
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Juliana Margulies
wearing Bulgari high
jewellery and Serpenti
clutch at the Golden
Globes
A close up of Juliana’s
Bulgari clutch and ring
Scarlett Johansson
caused quite a stir at
the Oscars in a green
Versace gown,
punk-inspired
hairstyle and Piaget
Mediterranean Garden
ear cuffs
Just over a month before the Oscars, the
stars were aglow for the 72nd Golden Globe
Awards, often called the ‘wild child’ of
awards season. True to form and in contrast
to the white splendour of the Oscars, the
Golden Globe saw a mix of brighter, bolder,
more eclectic ensembles. Naomi Watts
glowed in a Gucci column gown accented
by a Serpenti High Jewellery necklace
and a clutch from Bulgari. Fifty Shades of
Grey sensation Dakota Johnson did not
disappoint in a Chanel long bustier gown
embroidered with silver sequins and crystal
stones, while supermodel Behati Prinsloo
looked spectacular in a sleek Kaufman
Franco gown and De Grisogono jewellery.
Amid all the intricate magnificence and
glamour, it was sheer class and simplicity
that dominated the red carpet. And Taylor
Schilling, star of the hit TV drama series
Orange is the New Black, clinched it — a
backless Ralph Lauren red gown,
ballerina-like bun, red lipstick and Tiffany
& Co simple jewellery.
Taylor Schilling in a
backless Ralph Lauren
red gown and Tiffany &
Co jewellery
Dakota Johnson in a
Chanel long bustier
gown
53
DESIGN
ROBERT MAZLO
by Katrina A. Balmaceda
Timeless tales narrated
through ornamental jewels
54
FROM TOP
Robert Mazlo at work
Joan in Love ring
The Diver
OPPOSITE
Jack ring
emories can
manifest themselves
in dreams, or
be churned out
as helpful advice. Some seek them out
willingly to turn them into stories and
cautionary tales. For artist and craftsman
Robert Mazlo, the most natural evocation of
the past is to reshape it into timeless jewels.
Of all his memories, this may be one
of the most precious: one day in the early
1970s, as he was helping out at their familyrun atelier in Beirut, Lebanon, a stylish
lady came to express dissatisfaction with
a bespoke ring that they had made for
her. “My father told me to come and see
if I could find a way to create something
different,” recalls Robert. He remembers
being impressed by her elegance and
asking why she disliked the ring. The lady
explained that the diamond was smothered
by the closed setting. Robert then suggested
staging the stone on the body of the ring
by sculpting a coral branch shaped like five
fingers, only two of which would seize the
stone. It was the first original piece he had
ever created — and the lady loved it.
“During a lifetime, you sometimes have
the opportunity to meet a few remarkable
persons who, hopefully, will change the
way you think, without even measuring
the influence they have. Thanks to this
woman, I was comforted with the idea that
I was in the right direction,” says Robert.
He was studying at an art institute in Italy
at the time, and eventually established
his own studio in his hometown. At the
outbreak of civil war in Lebanon, he moved
to Boulogne, France, where the Mazlo
workshop is located today.
As opposed to modern studios where
one person specialises in a given task
and a jewel goes through a dozen pair of
hands, Robert has mastered all the stages
of the creation of jewellery — allowing
him to materialise his ideas faithfully.
His creations typically spring from an
emotion or a memory, which germinates
throughout a long period of research
and conceptualisation before his hands
finally fulfil his vision. Sometimes, happy
accidents help form the final product.
“This is called serendipity. Art is an
improbable mix between skill, curiosity
and luck,” says Robert. “The craftsman
literally thinks through his hands.
Honestly, I often only understand what I
have done afterwards. There’s
no room for reflection
during action.”
55
DESIGN
56
DESIGN
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Mazlo's prayer beads
Personal talismans that
Mazlo wears hint at his
story and beliefs
His mother's ring
OPPOSITE
The 2000 Years
necklace
When reflection does commence, it yields
much insight not only about the materials
and the creative process, but also about the
jeweller himself. Robert views the materials
— gold, coloured diamonds or other
precious stones — as “sparring partners”
that reveal their strengths and weaknesses,
as well as his own. Such materials, he says,
have memory, as well as a “singularity” or
imperfection that render them unique and
irreplaceable.
He views his clients the same way, and
thus listens to their stories and soaks in
their personalities when they come asking
for bespoke creations. Similarly, personal
talismans worn around Robert’s neck hint
at his story and beliefs. An amber bead
helps channel his inner tensions. An ancient
Phoenician pendant made of a sheet of gold
formed as a female divinity harks back to his
Lebanese roots. His family is represented
by his late mother’s wedding band, and
by a gold medal depicting Saint George
and the Dragon, which his grandfather
gave him when he was a child. These hang
on a handmade gold chain, also from his
grandfather.
With his penchant for the past, it is no
surprise that Robert’s next exhibit, Une Vie
(A Life), will comprise 22 unique jewels
that represent “emblematic moments that
anyone, in this world, is likely to experience
during a lifetime”. He aims to take the
conversation beyond mere memory by
focusing on the links between “objects
and souvenirs in the contemporary world,
which is mostly influenced by virtuality and
immaterial supports”.
On the other hand, to become timeless,
oth art and ornament,
jewels must be both
al message that transcends
offering a universal
alue. He laments the fact that
their anecdotal value.
ome people bring them in
few jewels last. “Some
the afterlife, some are lost, many are sold or
cycled, many are transformed.
destroyed and recycled,
ect, jewels are destroyed to
Like no other object,
erase memories, and particularly souvenirs of
eople do not want to recall,”
love stories that people
says Robert. This is why we rarely possess or
wned by our ancestors —
wear jewellery owned
till in their original form.
especially those still
57
TIMELESS
ROSE GOLD WATCHES
by Carol Lee
The iconic Patek Philippe World Time
71755 has been given an update for the
manufactu
manufacture’s 175th anniversary.
Perfect fo
for jetsetters, this latest World
Time Moon
M
continues telling time
in all of
o the world’s 24 time zones
at a gl
glance, with two rotatable
scale disks.This limited edition
watch showcases the moonphase
watc
display
disp in the centre of the dial
composed
com
of two extremely thin,
superposed glass.The result is
supe
an un
unusually large, richly detailed
moon
moon, complete with faithfully
reprod
reproduced lunar craters. All are
powered by the new ultra-thin
self-winding mechanical movement,
self-wind
calibre 240 HU LU.The ladies’ model
is slightly smal
smaller in 18k rose gold with
diamond bezel.
58
f recent trends are anything to go by, rose gold
is having its glowing moment now. Rose gold,
increasingly seen in watch brand collections
of late, is an alloy made from gold and copper.
Depending on the ratio, the colour ranges from soft pink to
a stronger and more reddish orange shade. Compared to the
silvery and yellow shades of other metals, rose gold — whether
as a watch case, strap or simply as an accent — is more versatile
and stylish given its warmer tone. It also helps to add a softer
touch when mixed with white or yellow gold or coloured
gemstones.
‘Pretty complicated’ is how one can
describe Audemars Piguet’s new
Millenary timepiece. Housed within its
pink gold and diamond case is the new
calibre 5201, a hand-wound movement.
Designed to reveal its balance wheel
which is usually hidden at the
back, this movement is tailormade for the oval case with
unique decorations.Time
is presented on a white
mother-of-pearl off-centred
disc with pink gold Roman
numerals and hands. A pink
cabochon sapphire tops the
crown, while diamond-set lugs
complement the brown alligator
leather straps.
The sun and the moon take
centre stage in this Reine de
Naples Day/Night timepiece.The
day/night complication is shown
on the upper dial with lapis lazuli
depicting the sky and encrusted
with clouds of white mother-ofpearl.The sun, represented by
the balance wheel, and the moon,
engraved on a titanium disc, rotate
together in 24 hours.The lower
half marks the hours and minutes
on a silvered, engine-turned dial
with signature open-tipped, bluedsteel Breguet hands. Available in
rose or white gold case set with
143 diamonds.
Blancpain’s Villeret Ultraplate 6606-3642-MMB
timepiece exudes understated elegance with its
red gold double-stepped 40mm case and Mille
Mailles bracelet. Named after Blancpain’s native
village of Villeret, this unisex slender watch boasts
an elegant opaline dial with Roman numerals,
seconds and power reserve indicator at 6 and
9 o’clock, and date display at 3 o’clock.The
sapphire crystal caseback reveals the handwinding movement with a power
reserve of 100 hours.
59
TIMELESS
This limited edition Margot is a thoroughly feminine timepiece
that features a daisy which helps women find out if “he loves me”
or “he loves me not”. Romantics will be delighted at the whimsical
mechanism which causes one (or two) of the 12 white, satin-lacquered
titanium petals to disappear under the dial with a simple press of
the pusher at 2 o’clock. Each action is accompanied by a distinct
crystalline chime. At the centre of the flower is a citrine from which a
pair of pink gold-tipped, steel hands tell time. Embracing the flower
is a pink mother-of pearl dial in a red gold case set with baguette
diamonds and white alligator leather strap.
Franck Muller goes big and bold with this
Cintree Curvex model. It may not have
any fancy complications, but it stands out
with a large 45mm by 32mm 18k rose
gold case that hugs the wrists, thanks to
its tonneau shape and carefully crafted
contours. Powered by a quartz movement,
it has an hour, minute and seconds display
over a sun-stamped lacquered white dial
with oversized relief Arabic numerals.
Complementing the case is the hand-sewn
brown alligator strap.
The darker cousin of rose gold makes this Pavonina timepiece shine
with elegance and style. It has a 31mm 18k red gold case and matching
bracelet adorned with diamonds. Protected by a domed sapphire crystal
and powered by a quartz movement, the red gold-plated hands point to
diamond hour markers on a white mother-of-pearl guilloche dial, while
the date is revealed at 6 o‘clock.
60
DESIGN
MOUSSON ATELIER
by Jennnifer Henricus
Inspired romantic fine jewellery from Russia
62
A pair of yellow
gold earrings with
diamonds, rubies
and pink sapphires
from the Heartbeat
collection
Stunning sets of rings
and earrings from
the Rolling Stones
collection
OPPOSITE PAGE
Yellow gold earrings
with pink sapphires
from the Rolling
Stones collection
arge, fine rutilated quartz,
its tiny gold inclusions
simulating a gentle breeze
blowing through a golden
field, is embraced by 18k yellow gold and
diamond highlights. Deep purple amethyst
sits in an open-work, with intricate nest
of yellow gold representing the life and
times of the Steppe nomads. Molten yellow
and white gold poured into free-form
shapes that encase colourful, heart-shaped
gemstones in its curves and crevices tell
a story of romance. These diverse designs
and stories are from three collections —
Wind, Rolling Stones and Heartbeat — by
Mousson Atelier.
Created by a group of Russian jewellery
professionals who pooled their individual
talents in 2008, Mousson Atelier is a
cutting-edge design studio based in St
Petersburg, Russia. The innovative atelier
attempts to redefine jewellery creativity by
focusing on unusual gemstones and fine
manufacturing techniques to create pieces
that capture passion, shifting moods and
untold stories. “Creativity is a motion, a
search. It is always a bit rebellious, too,”
says Mousson’s Olga Sheveleva. “We
abandoned the stereotypes and focus on
being innovators in everything we do. We
are not afraid to experiment. We try new
techniques, designs and conceptions.”
Though attempting to be unorthodox,
Mousson Atelier’s jewellery is firmly
grounded in the classic tradition of fine
jewellery making that St Petersburg is
famous for, which dates back to the time
of the Tsars. “Jewellery making is still alive
here and, fortunately, there are specialists
who are passionate about making fine
jewellery. At Mousson, we create timeless
pieces that will potentially become future
heirlooms,” she adds.
The studio’s palette of inspiration is vast.
The Rolling Stones collection, for example,
captures a mood of precious
lightness and joyous
movement of the nomads,
while Heartbeat is about
passion and romance.
The studio has a fullfledged art and design
department with four
designers, each with
a distinct style. “Our
design philosophy draws
inspiration from nature
and life and is focused
on elegant but fanciful
natural lines expressed
in attractive bright
colours. We like to
think of our jewellery
as a hymn to nature
and life itself,” Olga
elaborates.
63
DESIGN
Fine and unusual gemstones are at
the heart of Mousson Atelier’s creations.
All gemstones are cut at the company’s
workshop. These precious stones are usually
the inspiration and the starting point of
the creative process. But what makes the
pieces stand out are their exceptional finesse,
enabling the studio to work with a range of
gold alloys — from bright yellow, to pink,
white and black.
Interest in Mousson jewellery is growing
worldwide, and there is exceptional demand
from consumers in Asia so much so that
the company has now decided to set up a
subsidiary in Bangkok. The Mousson Atelier
in Thailand will open in spring this year and
will expand partnerships in Asia. “We had
a lot of success at the Hong Kong Jewellery
Fair in September last year, and we are now
looking forward to promoting the brand at
the jewellery fair in Singapore in July 2015.”
Looking ahead, the company wants
to grow in terms of creativity and
manufacturing techniques to position
Mousson as a cutting-edge fine jewellery
brand. Given the company’s skills and
philosophy, it seems well on its way.
64
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Earrings in black gold
with rutile quartz and
diamonds from the
Wind collection
Ruby pendant in yellow
gold with diamonds,
rubies and pink
sapphires from the
Heartbeat collection
Yellow gold pendant
with rutile quartz and
diamonds from the
Wind collection
Ruby ring in yellow
gold with diamonds,
rubies and pink
sapphires from the
Heartbeat collection
White gold ring with
rutile quartz and
diamonds from the
Wind collection
DESIGN
MUSEO DEL GIOIELLO
by Laura Rysman
The magnificent jewel
sanctuary in the
heart of Vicenza
19th century crown
in gold, silver and
diamonds. From the
collection of Mrs Flora
Abraham Sassoon. On
display in the Symbol
gallery
OPPOSITE
Olga Noronha medically
prescribed jewellery
— Cervical Collar,
handmade gold-plated
and silver. On display in
the Future gallery
66
new museum
dedicated solely to
jewellery has opened
its doors in Vicenza
late last year, an important milestone in the
Italian town most famous for celebrating
the art and richness of the goldsmith’s
craft. Nestled between Verona and Padova,
Vicenza looks back at centuries of designing
and crafting fine jewellery. The museum
is found at the Basillica Palladiana, an
emblem of Vicenza and a magnificent
icon of Renaissance architecture. The
grand structure was the seat of regional
governments for many centuries, and now
welcomes the public into its long-shuttered
interiors. Rebuilt in the 16th century by
Andrea Palladio, one of Italy’s greatest
architects, it is famed for its elegant, orderly
exterior, composed of the columned arcades
that defined Palladio’s style.
The restoration and construction of the
museum space was a collaboration between
the city of Vicenza and the Fiera di Vicenza,
host of VicenzaOro, one of the world’s
leading jewellery fairs. Matteo Marzotto, the
fair’s president, led the project which he
sees as a key to defining Vicenza’s role as
an enduring jewellery hub. The result is an
intimate, cloistered museum with modern
touches applied by renowned designer
Patricia Urquiola. Working within the
building’s heritage, she created interiors that
reflect the museum’s synthesis of history
and progress.
The museum is one of the world’s first
dedicated entirely to jewellery. Avoiding
chronology and the pageantry of precious
materials, it is divided into nine thematic
rooms instead, each exploring different
aspects of jewellery. The head curator of the
museum, Alba Cappellieri, explaines: “This
is not just a container; this is not a storage
space. We want to bring you on a vivid
journey of many styles, eras and ideas.”
A visitor passes marooned fragments of
67
DESIGN
68
FROM TOP
Necklace by Karl
Lagerfeld for Chanel.
Haute Couture
Collection Fall/Winter
1983/1984. Created
by Ugo Correani,
Milan, 1983. From the
collection of Deanna
Farneti Cera. On display
in the Fashion gallery
Silver embossed and
engraved Necklace
Nécessaire. From the
private collection of
Bianca Melesi Maggi.
On display in the
Function gallery
Flowers necklace in
white gold, diamonds,
pink sapphires and
Burmese rubies by
Chantecler, 2001. From
the private collection of
Chantecler. On display
in the Beauty gallery
OPPOSITE
The Magic Gallery.
Photo by Cosmo Laera
All IMAGES are
courtesy of Museo del
Gioiello, Vicenza, Italy
medieval frescoes before
ascending to the coppertoned gallery rooms
where arched ceilings evoke
ancient construction. The
geometry of the contemporary
display cases hints at the
multitude contained within. It
takes the visitor on a journey
through the nine galleries, each
with its own identity. First is
the Symbol gallery which features
pieces that commemorate status, wealth,
faith and power. The journey continues
on to the Magic gallery, where
amulets, talismans and oneiric forms
bring the surreal to life. The Icon
gallery is a tribute to jewellery’s power
to depict and to deify, and to the indelible
styles that have become the touchstones of
the language of jewellery.
The Function gallery reminds us of the
many ways utilitarian items have been
fashioned like jewellery to dignify and
beautify daily life, with pieces like chatelaines
and belt buckles. Beauty, jewellery’s greatest
gift of adornment, displays a gleaming case
of dazzling necklaces. Here, the art of Italian
jewellery is at its prime, featuring exquisite
pieces from some of the country’s
greatest jewellers — Stefano
Hafner, Roberto Coin, Chantecler,
Pomellato, among others.
With Fashion, the viewer is
treated to a plethora of designs
as imagined by an industry
where boldness and the codes of
high and low jewellery mix freely.
A realm where new combinations
are possible: a stupendous silk dress by
Gianfranco Ferré stands out, a bejewelled
and articulated golden feather crossing
the entire bodice with metalwork. All
ideas of fine jewellery are pooled in the
Design gallery, with conceptual pieces
created by industrial processes in plastics,
steel and ceramic — where architectural
or anthropomorphic shapes replace the
decorative motifs of the goldsmith’s world.
The expressive and sculptural potential
of jewellery is on view in Art. And finally,
the avant-garde Future installation probes
new materials and technologies that have
transformed the world of jewellery from
the ‘70s to the present, leaving the viewer
wondering where jewellery will go next with
the burgeoning revolution of 3D printing.
From the sumptuous to the surprising —
with the collaborative vision of 11 different
curators — the museum is a rich discovery
of jewellery with over 400 pieces on display.
A tribute to Vicenza’s deep love for jewellery
and the art, the museum is a radiant
reflection of the many ways we have used
jewellery to express and contain the many
facets of our very existence.
69
STYLE
M
arc Jacobs’
Velvet-Trimmed Metallic
Jacquard Blazer can
give a daytime outfit
a bold update when
worn with black
separates. Padded
shoulders, a tailored
silhouette and a loose
fit complete this
seductive menswearinspired jacket.
W
inged creatures play a central motif in Stephen
Webster’s Fly By Night fine jewellery collection, which
are “accented with the pretty poison of thorns and
meticulously detailed moth wings”. This Forest Cuff features
18k rubies, rose gold, and black and white diamonds for an
enchantingly dark take on magical fairy tales.
MIX & MATCH
by Koh Chuin Ying
Go-to black meets this edition’s celebrated metal
Go-t
I
n Hermès’ early days, designs incorporated equine themes from
bridles to harnesses. In the brand’s latest Haute Bijouterie collection, the
jewels revisit this aesthetic in elegant geometric fashion. In this Brides de
Gala piece, a horse’s headgear is reworked such that the main necklace is
made up of a horse’s tack, accompanied by suede straps, a bit and snaffle
— all embellished in rose gold, diamonds and sapphires.
A
watch winder is
a device used to keep
automatic watches
running when they
are not worn. Boca do
Lobo’s Knox Watch
Winder is not only
that, but also a piece
of artwork in its own
right. Named after Fort
Knox — one of the
most secure locations
on Earth — this luxury
safe will guard your most
prized timepieces.
70
I
n her Eros
collection, Greek
jewellery designer
Elena Votsi reveals “the
inspiration, the mystery
and charm beneath
the luxurious arrows
and the multicoloured
folded hearts”. The
idea being that arrows
symbolise the sun’s
rays and life, beautifully
juxtaposed here with
black diamonds.
P
ersonalised clutches featuring catchphrases and
names in a loopy Old Hollywood cursive font are having their
moment. But for those special nights out, Edie Parker — the
brand that started it all — has created this Fiona Faceted clutch
that features gold and silver square confetti in a hand-poured
acrylic casing that opens to a mirror-lined interior.
I
f you still needed a reason to believe that black
and gold are an unbeatable combination, Jacqueline
Cullen’s Hand-carved Electro Formed Whitby Jet
Drop earrings are the surefire answer. These pieces
showcase a heavy 18k gold overlay in a matte finish,
completed with a 180-million-year-old fossilised
wood known as Whitby jet.
R
ussian-born French artist Romain de Tirtoff, better known as Erté,
created theatrical designs that reflected the lavish lifestyles of early 20th
century. Fast forward to today and one can see that his Art Deco work has
influenced modern designers, like Erickson Beamon in this Out Of This
World mask. Lacquered eyelash embellishments, smooth velvet and goldplated brass mesh make this headpiece a true head turner.
71
FACETS
RED AND GOLD JEWELLERY
by Nina Hald
Passion, power and pizazz
exuded by crimson jewels
cross cultures and eras, red has been
, excitement,
. All of these symbolic
values have made red one of the most
appreciated hues. As an archetypical colour, red demands
attention. In some cultures, it signifies power and royalty.
In ancient Rome, red was worn only by the privileged
and powerful. And in jewellery, ruby is the ultimate
embodiment of the colour red — a precious stone of
timeless charm, imbued with multiple meanings and
enveloped in an aura of legends.
The Flowers Collection by Italian designer
Carlo Palmiero is devoted to the joys and
beauty found in nature. With such expertise
in the display of pavé setting in exquisite
jewels, Palmiero represents nature through
the brilliance of precious stones and the
nobility of gold. This ring is made of white
gold set with multi-coloured sapphires and
diamonds.
72
In the established “homage” tradition of
Frey Wille, this Ballerina clasp bangle
celebrates the city of Venice — once
known as Serenissima. The bangle has
red and warm brown fire enamel panels
framed in 24k gold-plated mounting. In
addition to the references of the well-known
window-art on the Doge’s palace is the lion
of Saint Mark’s, seen with an open book, a
historic sign of peace.
Inspired by Chantecler’s 1947 collection on the opening
of its first boutique-atelier, Capri 1947 embodies the values
and passions of that unique era. The most colourful version
is set with red, orange and pink corals, orange sapphires
and diamonds. The exquisite workmanship fashions the
high jewellery pieces into small miracles of Italian skill. The
combination of varying heights and sizes of cabochon-cut
stones gives these creole earrings movement, softness and
three-dimensionality.
Fope combines yellow
gold and coral in this
bangle from the 900
collection. The
collection is an
Italian icon and
expresses the very
essence of the spirit
of the company, with
its classic mixture of colours. With
a particular blend of visions from
the past and contemplations of the
present, Fope draws on a backdrop
of emotions and seduction, in order
to bring forth creations that match
beauty with elegance.
Artist jewellers Gary Wright and
Sheila Teague, Wright & Teague,
have been working with Gemfield’s
Mozambican rubies. The couple’s
signature flower motif is carved into
the gold and set with rubies, thus
creating a powerful allegory for
the rubies as a symbol of birth and
renewal. The earrings’ line of dainty
rubies forms a joyful river of fire.
Malaysian jeweller Selberan celebrates its
40th anniversary with the Petit Rococo Ruby
collection. The 18th century decorative
style featuring asymmetric compositions
with sensuous curves is translated into a
charming and feminine range of jewellery
made in 18k white and yellow gold, accented
with especially selected, fiery red rubies and
diamonds.
73
DESIGN
BULGARI
by David Yip
The Mediterranean Hues
necklace
74
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Diva pink gold bracelet
with mother-of-pearl
Diva pink gold necklace
with mother-of-pearl
and pavé diamonds
MVSA pink gold
bracelet with full pavé
diamonds
he allure of gold
old is
ancient and palpable.
alpable.
It stirs the passion
sion of
the people who
ho wear
it and the designers who create with
th it. The
king of metals once again lends gravitas
avitas to
two new Bulgari collections. In the Diva
collection, gold and gems are used to
celebrate the divas of the silver screen
een
— glamorous goddesses such as Ava
va
Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor, and Italy’s
y’s
own beloved Sophia Loren, who
exuded the Dolce Vita lifestyle of
the 50s and 60s. Drawing inspiration
on
from iconic Hollywood wardrobes
such as Elizabeth Taylor’s costumess
in the film Cleopatra, these oneof-a-kind rings, necklaces, braceletss
and earrings in white, pink and yellow
low
gold feature rare and vivid gems in
n bold
colour combinations — a design hallmark
allmark
for which Bulgari is known. Uniting
ng the
collection is a fan-like motif that is used in
geometric arrangements, or transformed
ormed
into the petals of a flower or scales of a fish,
or hung in elegant clusters that evoke
oke the
Orient.
In a necklace pendant from this
collection, pavé diamonds and lustrous
mother-of-pearl are arranged on a pink gold
fan-like delicate expressionist artwork. In
another piece — a pink gold sautoir — a
series of berry-sized fan pendants with pavé
diamonds and inlaid mother-of-pearl is
suspended like translucent dewdrops from
the chain. In another bracelet, a similar
ensemble of pendants, inlaid with motherof-pearl, hangs from a double-strand chain
of pink gold. Gold’s richness serves to
underscore the glitzy decadence of the era
that inspired these pieces and helps frame
the fluid designs that make them so exotic,
yet eminently wearable.
Gold also features prominently in the
other new collection from Bulgari. The
MVSA collection honours the Muses of
ancient Greece, nine sisters of mythology
who ruled over the arts, poetry, music
and dance. For centuries the Muses were
believed to have held the secrets to artistic
inspiration and epitomised feminine beauty.
MVSA pink gold
ring with full pavé
diamonds
They are the creative
wellsprings behind
these Bulgari art pieces.
The MVSA Collection is an
ensemble of rings, necklaces,
bracelets and earrings, 26 pieces in all,
embodying the traits of the Bulgari style —
vibrant materials, dynamic arrangements of
ith
compact shapes, a melting pot of stones with
unusual colours, shapes and cuts.
The fil rouge of the MVSA
Collection is the takhti cut, which
reached a pinnacle of sophistication
in the Mughal Empire of ancient
75
DESIGN
FROM TOP
The Odissi necklace
The Viola necklace
MVSA pink gold
earrings with takhti-cut
chalcedony, rubellite
beads, pink tourmaline
beads and pavé
diamonds
MVSA pink gold ring
with takhti-cut blue
chalcedony and pavé
diamonds
MVSA pink gold
bracelet with takhti-cut
amethysts, rubellite
beads and pavé
diamonds
India before declining in popularity.
Bulgari became the first jeweller
to reintroduce the takhti cut in
modern times, reinterpreting it
for a contemporary audience and
revealing its soft, sensual drama. The
takhti cut graces gemstones such as
blue topaz, amethyst, citrine, chalcedony,
onyx, rubellite, prasiolite, tourmaline and
diamonds. Gold is used to enhance nuances
of colour, radiance and intensity of these
stones, especially in the high jewellery
pieces within the collection. Mediterranean
Hues, for instance, is a seascape necklace in
yellow gold whose 68.10ct emerald pebbles,
64.56ct amethysts and 60.73ct tourmalines
combine to form a mosaic of extraordinary
suppleness that is ardently feminine. Odissi,
another necklace in yellow gold that features
a truly regal emerald at its centre, echoes the
movements of Indian classical dance with
its delicate and sinuous design. In the Viola
necklace, 16 uniquely shaped amethysts
76
totalling 504.54 carats were patiently
collected over time and not re-cut but merely
polished. An interlacing of yellow gold and
brilliant-cut diamonds, together with pink
tourmalines and round red spinels, complete
this creation. Cascade, a necklace in white
gold featuring rose pear-shaped diamonds,
round brilliant-cut diamonds and baguette
diamonds, conjures the image of crystalline
drops of water.
As these two collections amply show,
gold is a versatile, resonant and harmonious
setting material for any gemstone. In the
hands of a master jeweller like Bulgari, gold
has the wonderful capacity to capture the
eye, the heart and the imagination.
STYLE
MIX & MATCH
Electric Shock ring,
FERNANDO
JORGE
by Koh Chuin Ying
Serene shades find their way
into Spring’s Couture creations
VALENTINO Haute
Couture Spring 2015
Clutch, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
at ON PEDDER
Prive Diamond Baguette
cuff, JEMMA WYNNE
Embrace the femininity of rose
gold and pair it with nude undertones
from similar colour charts,
like dusty pink, beige and taupe
The Uprising baroque
pearl ring, ORNELLA
IANNUZZI
Van Gogh stone-embellished
leather mule, RENE
CAOVILLA at ON
PEDDER
78
J12 Soft Rose 38 mm
watch, CHANEL
Amulette de Cartier
pendant in pink gold
and pink opal with a
diamond, CARTIER
2%0+.Ǝ#+( Ĩ,(0! Ǝ)%..+.! Ǝ
sunglasses, LINDA FARROW
LUXE at ON PEDDER
Stargazer Collar,
Stephen Webster
Seto striped quartz
earrings with white
%)+* Ǝ,2\Ǝ%*Ǝøÿ'Ǝ
recycled white gold,
MONIQUE PÉAN
Mirage Skimmer pump,
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD
City Classic Metal
#!Ǝ0!401.! Ĩ(!0$!.Ǝ
tote, BALENCIAGA
Fly Me To The Moon
Amore Almond
Cabochon ringg
Wonderland Josephine
necklace in 18k
yellow gold with pink
sapphires and white,
grey, brown and black
diamonds, LITO
ARMANI PRIVÉ Haute
Couture Spring 2015
79
TIMELESS
RUBY-SET TIMEPIECES
by Sam Koh
Blancpain
Blancpain’s foray into the
bejewelled watch arena hit a high
note with this 138-piece limited
edition creation.The bezel of the
Villeret Ladies Ultra Slim
Ref 3300-35A28-099B comes in
white gold, surrounded by two
rows set with rubies.The white
dial is set further with another row
of rubies, enhancing the contrast
between fiery precious stone and
icy precious metal.The watch has a
100-hour power reserve, is waterresistant to a maximum of 50m, and
d
comes with a comfortable 34mm
diameter case paired with a red
crocodile leather strap.
Horological masterpieces enhanced by
the passion and glory of ruby
80
or many reasons, rubies are considered
as one of the most captivating gems.They
embrace everything a precious stone should
be, with dazzling colour, enduring hardness
and exceptional lustre. A rare gemstone, especially in its finer
form, the ruby’s classic beauty has made it a prevalent element
in the crowns, tiaras and jewellery of royalty.Watchmakers, too,
have stepped up and incorporated these precious stones into
their creations, combining a lady’s daily time-keeping routine
with her desire for exquisite jewellery.
Breguet has outdone itself again with the Marine
Chronographe 5829 Haute Joaillerie timepiece. It combines
sports performance with exceptional gemstone brilliance by
adopting the main features of Breguet’s model 5827, with a
case entirely set with baguette-cut precious stones.Totalling
approximately 11.17 carats, 186 diamonds enhance the case
bezel, lugs, frame, push pieces and crown of the timepiece.
The case measures 42mm — fashionably sized but a tad
larger compared to other bejewelled timepieces.This beauty
sports the individually numbered and signed Breguet calibre
583Q/1 that is decorated in “Côtes de Genève”, has a 48-hour
power reserve and an 18k white gold rotor.
Chanel decided to up the J12’s ante
by engaging top Swiss watchmakers to
incorporate the Tourbillon complication
into the exquisite timepiece, producing
the Chanel 05-T.1 movement.
The brand then combined fine
watchmaking and high jewellery
with the Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie.
The dial is composed of two 0.3mm
ceramic plates and nine index
diamonds, with the Tourbillon nestled
comfortably at the bottom of the watch
face.The bezel, watch case and bracelet
are surrounded by 568 baguette-cut rubies.
Only one piece was ever produced, and it
remains one of the more outstanding models
in all of fine jewellery horology.
To commemorate the Year of the Dragon in 2012, Jaquet
Droz created a timepiece that showcased the most
respected of Asian symbols.The Petite Heure Minute
Relief Dragon comes with luscious materials of 18k gold
and precious stone.The dragon symbolises the power and
wisdom of the Emperor, and this watch is definitely fit
for one. Delicately engraved in red gold and with a ruby
mounted on the dial, the dragon is shown surfacing from
an ocean of black mother-of-pearl. Upon closer inspection,
one will notice that its tail is also engraved on the oscillating
weight, made of black onyx and visible through the back of
the case, giving the illusion that the animal is moving right
through the watch. Only 88 pieces were commissioned.
81
TIMELESS
This Bulgari High Jewellery Serpenti watch comes alive in the
form of a magnificent timepiece. Available in white gold, the
‘scales’ of the snake are set with 124 sparkling brilliant-cut
diamonds and enamel. From its 18k white gold head carrying
32 brilliant-cut diamonds, two pear-shaped ruby snake eyes
peer out. Functionally beautiful, the serpent’s resplendent jaws
open to reveal a high-precise Quartz movement.This dazzling
40mm timepiece comes in an 18k white gold case with eight
marquise-cut diamonds. Another set of 159 brilliant-cut
diamonds adorn the length of its body.
DeLaneau once earned the title of ‘The
Jeweller of Watches” through its creations of
colourful jewellery timepieces. It’s not difficult
to see how they got that accolade when you
set your eyes on the Graces, the brand’s latest
and boldest creation.This line was chosen as
a finalist in the ‘Jewellery’ category at 2013’s
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.The
watch has 284 Burmese rubies of varying sizes
and glow with such fire that one alone would
be mesmerising, much less an entire wrist
wrapped with them. Positioned in the middle
of the ruby bracelet is an oval dial set with 210
rubies and surrounded by a white gold case set
with 58 diamonds.
82
INTERVIEW
CHANTECLER
Flirty and fabulous
jewellery inspired by Italy’s
glamorous island getaway
84
boutique was founded by Pietro Capuano
(nicknamed Chantecler) and our father,
Salvatore, attracting international movie stars,
princesses and celebrities.
In Capri, everything is more vibrant — the
perfume of jasmine, the colours of the
sunset, the intriguing smile of a young
woman. Being natives of Capri, our challenge
is to reproduce the shades of nature and
the shapes of its architecture, replicating
elsewhere the intensity of the emotions that
only Capri can give.
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Maria Elena Aprea,
Chantecler’s Creative
Director
Large earrings set in
pink gold, amethyst,
phosphosiderite, pink
sapphires and diamonds
from the Capri 1947
collection
Medium charm set
in pink and white
gold, diamonds and
rubies pavé from the
Campanelle collection
Medium charm set in
white gold, diamonds
and red coral from the
Campanelle collection
Ring set in pink
gold, amethyst,
phosphosiderite, pink
sapphires and diamonds
from the Capri 1947
collection
OPPOSITE
Necklace in turquoise
and diamonds pavé from
the Cherie collection
ndorsed and worn by
the world’s most famous
divas in the 1950s, such
as Jacqueline Kennedy
Onassis, Ingrid Bergman and
Audrey Hepburn, Chantecler’s jewellery
pieces evoke infinite joie de vivre. The
brand, inspired by the eccentricity and
light-heartedness of Capri, offers distinctive
designs reminiscent of the island’s laidback
yet sophisticated lifestyle. Founded by Pietro
Capuano and Salvatore Aprea in 1947,
Chantecler continues to captivate jewellery
lovers all over the world. Maria Elena
Aprea, Chantecler’s Creative Director,
speaks to Solitaire about the brand’s
creative journey.
In the middle of 1990’s, the inevitable
generational transfer took place. We
transformed the sophisticated niche brand
into a worldwide recognised company, while
remaining strongly committed to our uniquee
heritage. It was important
nt for the
brand to have a solid presence
esence
and an international showcase
owcase
in the most prestigious business
hubs in order to start thee
wholesale distribution. So
we opened two flagship
stores in Italy, and more
abroad.
Capri’s enchanting beauty is the raw
material behind Chantecler’s creative
genius. The island has inspired visitors for
centuries not only for its shimmering seas
and stunning coves and beaches, but also
for its fine art, culture, unique atmosphere
and lifestyle. During the Dolce Vita era in
the 1950s, as a result of the creativity of
the island and the unmistakable flair of
its talented artisans, Capri became the
symbol of chic, understated style. Social
life was sparkling when the first Chantecler
85
INTERVIEW
The history of Chantecler’s Campanelle goes
back to 1944. It was inspired by the legend
of Saint Michael, who aided a young boy
desperate for having lost his sheep by giving
him a wish-granting bell. With every jingle a
wish came true, and so the young shepherd
found his lost sheep. Fascinated by the
legend, Pietro Capuano and Salvatore Aprea
forged a bronze bell and gave it as a symbol
of peace to Franklin Delano Roosevelt,
President of the United States. Since then,
after 70 years, the Campanelle still remains
as Chantecler’s icon.
Our jewels are pleasure jewels as opposed
to duty or power jewels. Duty jewels are
those that a woman needs to have for her
social standing, like a wedding band or an
engagement ring. Then there are the power
jewels that are there to demonstrate social
power. For pleasure jewels, you choose them
for what they are, for the emotions they give
you, for their beauty and the excellence of
their craftsmanship.
The Asian market has been showing a
strong interest for our brand since 2007,
when the Tokyo boutique was opened. Since
then, Chantecler has slowly developed a
certain brand awareness in that market
and has been rewarded with the opening
86
of three more boutiques in Hong Kong
in 2013 and 2014. Asian clients are very
sophisticated and knowledgeable. We
carefully listen to the suggestions from our
partners and create pieces that are suitable
for these affectionate clients. Collections
such as the Campanelle and Marinelle are
warmly welcomed in Japan and Hong Kong.
One cannot miss the deliberate use of
colours and the daring combinations in
our pieces, which are deeply reminiscent
of the isle of Capri — the turquoise of the
water in the blue grotto, the white and soft
pastel shades of the houses, the coral of the
Pompeian red of the Roman ruins. All these
illustrate the uniqueness of Capri and are
evoked by a Chantecler jewel.
When I create a piece of
jewellery, I look for inspiration
in everything that characterises
the Island. I try to reproduce
with utter dedication its beauty
and design creations, ensuring
that even the most hidden
finishing and every single detail
reflect perfection.
FROM TOP
Different charms in
turquoise, diamonds
pavé, rubies pavé and
pink coral from the
Campanelle collection
Necklace in onyx and
diamonds pavé from the
Cherie collection
Jacqueline Kennedy
Onassis with Salvatore
Aprea and Pietro
Capuano
KNOWLEDGE
ROSE GOLD JEWELLERY
by Astrid Colley
Rose gold brings
radiant yet subtle
glow to jewellery
and timepieces
88
High jewellery necklace
in rose gold and
diamonds, FOPE
Elio engraved pink gold
watch, BUCCELLATI
OPPOSITE
Sophia Loren pink gold
bracelet with diamonds,
DAMIANI
ewellery lovers
around the world
are basking in the
warmth of much
softer tones of gold — soothing,
delicate and a lot easier to mix
and match. The differences
among pink, rose and red gold
lie in the varying amount of
copper mixed in with the gold.
Pink uses the least amount of
copper, followed by rose; the red
variety has the highest copper
content. Silver tones down the
hue, with rose gold using about
2.75 per cent silver, and pink
gold — the lightest of the three
— containing about 5 per cent.
Depending on the ratio, the colour can
range from orange-yellow to dusky pink
and red-orange.
Rose gold was popular with royalty in
Russia in the 1800s, while the US caught
up on the trend in the 1920s. Red gold had
its heyday in the 1970s and 1980s. These
days, it’s the varying shades of pink and
rose gold that are all the rage.
Rose gold blends well with either white
or yellow gold, allowing the wearer to layer
multiple pieces. The idea of combining
rose gold with white and yellow
gold was initiated by Cartier in the
1920s when the company released
the first Trinity ring. Today, jewellers
love to offer rose gold pieces as
part of mixed-metal ensembles
of multiple necklaces or stacked
bangles and rings.
Jewellery in rose gold also looks
rich and luxurious when accented
with white, cognac and canary
diamonds. Fope’s high jewellery
pieces from the Mia Luce
collection highlight intricatelycrafted woven rose gold and
diamonds. The collection showcases
multi-strand necklaces, lariat, rings
and bracelets. It also features Fope’s
iconic Novecento mesh chain design,
which is known to rest on skin like silk. At
Buccellati, some of the most popular rose
gold pieces are watches, necklaces and
cuffs that are accented with diamonds. “We
often use a combination of pink, white
and yellow gold,” says communication
director Maria Cristina Buccellati. Known
for intricately engraved pieces, Buccellati’s
Macri bracelet comes in solid gold, etched
and set with diamonds that form the shape
of a diamond.
89
KNOWLEDGE
90
FROM TOP LEFT
Long necklace in
rose and yellow gold
with white and brown
diamonds from the
Ingrid collection,
MORAGLIONE
Sophia Loren pink gold
earrings with diamonds,
DAMIANI
Josephine Aigrette
bracelet in rose gold and
diamonds, CHAUMET
High jewellery bracelet
in rose gold and
diamonds, FOPE
OPPOSITE
INSIDE: CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Arabesque earrings in
rose gold and diamonds,
POMELLATO
Aria pink gold band,
DE BEERS
Arabesque ring in
rose gold with amber
and brown diamonds,
POMELLATO
OUTSIDE
Honolulu necklace
in pink gold,
BUCCELLATI
Another Italian brand,
Pomellato, designs rings with
h the
centres and shanks in varying
ng
sizes, thickness and gemstones
nes
to provide stacking options.
Its Sabbia rings come in three
ree
sizes, and with black, white or
brown diamond accents. The
he
wearer can choose to wear
one of each size or a different
ent
type of gemstone accent to
mix and match. “Every piece
ce of
jewellery has the opportunity
ity
to create a unique point of
view,” says managing director
tor
Andrea Petochi. The brand
d has
also released a bold line called
alled
Arabesque, which features pieces
that play with rose gold through
rough an
openwork ramage pattern,, combined
with diamonds and large coloured
stones.
Some companies are focusing
ocusing on
pieces that have a delicatee and feminine
feel. De Beers recently launched
unched its
dance-inspired Aria Collection
ection in pink
gold, with a pendant and band in layers
of pastel tone gold and decorated
ecorated with
dainty diamonds. At Damiani,
miani, the focus
has been on refined pieces
es with dramatic
flair. “We have a lot of requests
quests for rose
gold pieces and as such we’ve had to
satisfy these requests by launching new
esident Giorgio
collections,” says vice president
ourites is the
Damiani. “One of my favourites
h pays homage to
Sophia Loren line, which
the beauty and charm off the Italian actress.
Pink gold and diamondss pieces, bracelet,
bine with the soft
rings and earrings combine
amonds There’s
curves of a circle and diamonds.
also a beautiful choker in pink gold with
diamonds set on a black silk ribbon.”
More and more couples are also opting
for rose gold as their metal of choice for
anniversary gifts, engagement rings and
weddings. To celebrate Valentine’s Day,
French jeweller Chaumet released six
new pink gold pieces from its Joséphine
collection. According to the brand, the
pink hues, matched with a graceful tiara
motif, was fashioned for the contemporary,
independent woman. The Joséphine Aigrette
bracelet and Tiara rings are embellished
with pear-shaped diamonds that are
perfectly symmetrical, with an openwork
structure that allows light
to fully penetrate through
the stones. The rings’
central diamonds range from
0.40 to 1 carat, with a bezel
that is unique to each ring as it
maintains a balance in proportion.
Rose gold compliments most skin
tones and gives stones a lot of depth and
colour. From everyday pieces to high
jewellery, rose gold is becoming a new
classic. Its versatile colour makes it a
smart addition to women’s wardrobes,
providing more options for mixing,
matching and stacking.
91
FACETS
MULIT-FINGER RINGS
by Preeta Agarwal
Stand out in these jazzy and elegant multi-finger rings
ver the past year, the jewellery industry saw the revival of
one of the bolder yet graceful jewellery trends —
between-the-finger rings. From high fashion to
fine jewellery, these dramatic multi-finger rings
created quite a stir and charmed many designers and collectors.
Sidestepping the long-standing rule of cocktail rings,
these pieces range from bold to delicate and are unique
conversation starters.
Elegantly poised wings grace this ring by Damiani from its recently
launched Swan collection. Stunning in white gold, black and white
diamond feathers unfold around two fingers as a large blood red
garnet proudly holds them together, sitting atop in-between fingers.
The ring graces the hand in such a way that it creates a dramatic colour
combinations and hints of Art Nouveau swirls.
92
The Ispahan ring, from the new collection
recently launched by Boucheron, features rock
crystals, giving an impression of a miniature
masterpiece. The rock crystals create a
stunning effect on the wearer’s fingers, as
subtle shades of blue, from hematite in
the centre and cabochon blue sapphire
on tips, play with each other. This
two-finger ring set in white gold has an
edgy and theatrical appeal.
A bespoke creation by the Hong Kong-based designer
Marielle Bayworth, this two-finger ring is part of her latest
Aya collection. An organic free form in 18k white gold
features pavé white and yellow diamonds from Scarselli.
The abstract ring is intriguing and captivating with its bold
form, and the vivid yellow diamonds against the white
backdrop reminds us of a painter’s palette.
This butterfly two-finger ring is
a recent addition to the collections
offered by Yoko London, best known
for their fine range of pearl and diamond jewellery. Three
fluttering butterflies go around two fingers, studded with
0.70 carats of white diamonds, while a 12-13mm South Sea
pearl sits boldly on top of one finger. Connected with thin
lines of 18k yellow gold, vibrant butterflies and perfectly
round-shaped pearl offer a visual contrast to each other.
Another nature-inspired two-finger ring is the Snake ring
from Arpita Navlakha’s Sutra Jewels. Laced with a total
of 3ct diamonds, the snake entwines around two fingers
with a pear-shaped diamond resting on its head. Keeping
true to its inspiration, the ring is made in 18k black gold,
which is rare and unique.
Not just made for two or three fingers, Stefere’s knuckle ring laces all four
fingers. Five butterflies with pavé diamonds, emeralds and sapphires adorably
dance around the fingers, reminiscent of a fairy tale. A large but delicate ring
— with all butterflies carefully connected to each other with smooth, thin and
curved 18k gold lines — it is designed for comfortable wearing.
93
DESIGN
KINTSUGI
by David Yip
Teapot and a cup,
repaired using the new
kintsugi technique —
a new way of gluing
porcelain with gold
based on the old
kintsugi technique
94
FROM LEFT
Sisters Gieke and Lotte,
founder of Humade,
an art haven based in
the Netherlands that
specialises in the new
kintsugi technique
A beautiful porcelain
plate fixed using the
new kintsugi technique
intsugi is one of
the least known of
traditional Japanese
arts. Literally meaning
“joining with gold”, kintsugi is the technique
of piecing together broken pottery or
glass with lacquer, rice glue and gold. The
art embodies the Japanese philosophy
of “no mind”, which teaches freedom
from attachment to anything, living in the
moment, and the acceptance of change and
fate as aspects of human life. In Japanese
aesthetics, flaws and imperfections are
embraced, and visible marks of wear and
usage are valued. The art of kintsugi makes
no attempt to hide the damage. Instead, the
repair is literally illuminated. Paradoxically,
the repaired item often becomes more
valuable in the process.
Kintsugi’s origins date back to the late
15th century, when the Japanese shogun
Ashikaga Yoshimasa sent a damaged Chinese
tea bowl to China for repairs. When it came
back, they saw that it was repaired using ugly
metal staples, which prompted the Japanese
craftsmen to look for a more elegant method
of restoration.
In the beginning, kintsugi was a simple
repair craft that used a mixture of rice
glue and urushi (lacquer). Powdered gold
was usually
applied to the
repaired patch
or seam before the
urushi set, although
the materials and levels
of embellishment varied. The
process of repair was dictated by the lines
and contours of the breakage, and inevitably
resulted in a visually attractive presentation.
Over time, larger repairs were enhanced by
decorative patterns and illustrations painted
with urushi or a fine grade of powdered
metal, a technique known as maki-e. The
skill and artistry of the craftsmen reached
such a perfection that collectors were known
to break valuable pieces so they could be
repaired using this method.
This abstract approach for restoration
using laborious yet creative methods in
95
DESIGN
building up layers of lacquer is now highly
celebrated and has inspired a younger
generation of artists. In the past, there were
artisans who specialised in kintsugi, but
demand for it has fallen. Today, kintsugi
is practised in conjunction with other art
forms, such as maki-e lacquer ware and the
new kintsugi technique, which is derived
from the old style. However, the last 10 years
have seen a surge of interest, particularly
among the Japanese youth, in whom
changing attitudes towards mass production
96
and conformity are tied to a growing
appreciation for conserving and recycling
precious resources.
With its celebration of imperfection and
impermanence, kintsugi speaks powerfully
of the idea of loss, destruction and rebirth
in human affairs — nothing is pure or lasts
forever. Timon Screech, Professor of Art at
the School of African and Oriental Studies
in London, commented, “As far as I know,
kintsugi is the only art that has taken this as
its very purpose.”
Plates repaired using the
new kintsugi technique
All IMAGES are
courtesy of Humade,
a Dutch art haven that
offers DIY kintsugi kits
(www.humade.nl).
TIMELESS
SIHH LADIES’ WATCHES
by Jonathan Ho
manliness is softened with a luxurious diamond-set 18k pink gold
bezel — 40 brilliant-cut gems totalling 0.73 carats accentuate the petite
silver-toned Grande Tapisserie dial with pink gold hour appliques.
Driven with a robust quartz movement, it is the timepiece for the
indomitable woman.
Nine exemplary
98
industries — watchmaking
— is waking up to the
fact that ladies, too, appreciate timepieces not
only for their aesthetics and jewellery appeal,
but also for artful mechanical details.The
varied display of ladies’ bejewelled yet high
complication timepieces shown at the Salon
International de la Haute Horlogerie 2015,
known as SIHH, symbolises this evolving
awareness within the watch industry.What’s
more, it shows that women, without a doubt,
can really have it all.
The Excalibur Brocéliande is a timepiece
bu
built to mythic proportions like its
namesake, the Brocéliande forest
n
from the Arthurian legends. It
fr
iis Roger Dubuis’ tribute to the
rromance of watchmaking, featuring
3.44 carats of precious stones, all
inlaid on the iconic case and flanges
of the maison’s signature Excalibur
ccollection. A red leather strap
d
dresses the pink gold case, accented
with semi-precious ‘ivy foliage’
w
sto
stones in autumnal colours, held aloft
via slender gold wire, gem-encrusted
branches. So subtly entwined is this
branc
artistry with the skeleton gearwork that you
could almos
almost miss the flying tourbillon.
Celebrating 260 years,Vacheron Constantin released a
svelte Harmony double-pusher chronograph, an exquisite
interpretation of the chronograph issued in limited 260
pieces.The Chronograph Small Model Calibre 1142 is set
within a graceful 18k pink gold cushion-shaped case and
set with 1.20ct diamonds. Her beating heart is a superbly
decorated and rebuilt Lémania chronograph whose
vibrational frequency has been modified from 2.5 to 3 Hz.
Slender and bequeathed with an all new in-house
52850 calibre worthy of the Portugieser’s 75th
anniversary, IWC’s latest Annual Calendar is also an
understated tribute to the firm’s American founder,
F.A. Jones. At 44.2mm, the timepiece wears large,
but the elegantly brushed sunray-finished dial gently
guides your perception towards the twin power reserve,
the subsidiary second counters, and the uncluttered
aesthetics of the trio of annual calendar apertures.The rare
combination of the Annual Calendar complication and a power
reserve of eight days is a fitting emblem for women on-the-go.
99
TIMELESS
There’s much to be said about RM 19-02
Tourbillon Fleur. The stunning gem-set
magnolia motif is a complication beyond
compare.The flying tourbillon escapement
within rises a full millimetre from the
breast of the delicate, hand-crafted, five
petal magnolia, as it opens, raising her
bejewelled stamen towards the dial.The
clever innovation can be activated at
will through a pusher at 9 o’clock, and
the Tourbillon Fleur is potent symbol of
the maison’s penchant for beauty and
technology in 30 limited edition timepieces.
This artisanal homage to haute horlogerie is all about
performance and sophistication.The sum competence of
Montblanc ‘s Villeret Manufacture resides within the 281
components that comprise the hand-wound tourbillon
calibre. It has an unprecedented triple time zone with local
time display and a pair of globes which show 24 time zones
from both hemispheres.The 47mm Villeret Tourbillon
Cylindrique Geosphères is sized for men, but its delicate details
and the myriad of intricate decoration and finishing make this
timepiece perfect for both genders.
100
FACETS
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetic Complication, the
Jour Nuit Oiseaux de Paradis, sets our heart
aflutter.Taking the innovative mechanics
of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, the maison
has dedicated itself to all new
in-house complications with the
Agenhor module, here utilised to
great form to show the passage of
24 hours — the hand-enamelled
cloisonné Bird of Paradise makes
a full rotation once per day
in perfect complement to her
diamond-set bezel.
Cartier’s Ballon Bleu de Cartier Vibrating
Setting is brilliant not just in the craft, but
in its modern execution of a 19th century
‘trembling setting’ technique. Reinvigorated
and reinterpreted, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier
serves as a quiet stage for the brilliance of
the diamonds within.There are over 200
hundred brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial,
each vibrating in concert with each other. Its
living expression is articulated by an ingenious
invisible system which turns extra-thin 430
MC into a 42mm timepiece luxury incarnate.
Discreet and bearing a white, sunray-decorated dial with
Roman numeral appliques, the new women’s Classima
from Baume & Mercier is an able companion
for work and play. Designed with an
unblemished caseback and paired with
purple alligator strap — individually
curated for square scales and
secured to wrist by pin buckle,
the Classima Women Quartz
in steel is chic, befitting
modern elegance.
101
DESIGN
BETH GILMORE
by Jennnifer Henricus
A designer’s labyrinthine love affair with
gold and elaborate patterns
102
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Beth Gilmore at her
studio in Bloomsbury,
London
Beth's favourite pair
of earrings — the
Dichroma earrings, in
18k yellow gold with
fancy-cut bi-colour
quartz
Gold, stackable rings
Ring in 18k white gold
with white diamond
Ring in 18k yellow
gold with mink brown
diamond
OPPOSITE PAGE
Garland necklace in
18k yellow with white
diamonds
ainterly designs,
combining gold
and gemstones in a
contemporary but
unorthodox manner are the signature style
of Beth Gilmore, an award-winning Londonbased designer. Her beautiful, unfussy pieces
blend intricacy with clean lines, aesthetic
simplicity and careful restraint.
Beth tends to focus on contrasts using a
variety of metal and gemstone colours. But
what’s most apparent in her pieces is the
overall harmony with an underlying subtle
tension – a quiet, almost intangible duality
that gives her jewellery its unusual visual
appeal. “It’s a bit like cooking. You have to
have the right balance of flavours to have
a successful dish,” Beth explains. Clearly
a gold artist, she uses gold alloys as her
colour palette and hand-makes all her
pieces in her studio in Bloomsbury,
London. Her love affair with gold
started when she was 18, during an art
foundation course. Gold’s numerous
colour alloys are the main stimulus for
her creativity. Add to that her fondness for
elaborate and unusual gemstones plus a
fascination for intricate patterns inspired by
vintage textiles, and the result is a series of
unique pieces that she likes to describe as
“wearable works of art.”
“My designs are a marriage of materials
— gemstones and precious metals. I enjoy
approaching this pairing from both angles:
selecting unusual precious stones and
designing around them, or creating intricate
gold patterns and then using gemstone
highlights for extra visual appeal,” shares
Beth. Among her popular collections is
the Dichroma, inspired by qualities of
bi-colour gemstones such as ametrine and
bi-colour citrine. Using these, she creates
moods of light and shadow on each piece
by manipulating the different colours of
metals to complement and contrast with the
gemstones. Her favourite is a pair of large
Dichroma earrings, featuring fancy-cut
bi-colour quartz that she set in 18k gold. She
plated half of the piece with black rhodium
to mimic the shadow running through the
stone. “I immensely enjoyed working on
this piece because I had complete creative
freedom and only my tastes to please!”
Explaining the creative process
applied for this piece, Beth
started by working on a precise
technical drawing, before
making the leaf areas and
the mounts in gold. The
leaves were stamped to
give them the intricate
surface pattern. These were
soldered to the mount.
Once the stones were set,
the piece was given a final
polish before being plated
103
DESIGN
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Tapering necklace in 18k
yellow gold with diamonds
18k yellow gold earrings
with onyx briolets from the
Dichroma collection
Shaded necklace in 18k
yellow gold and silver
Dichroma ring in 18k yellow
gold and ametrine
Dichroma ring in 18k yellow
gold and bi-coloured
citrine
with black rhodium. The earrings received a
lot of attention and were selected as a show
pick by Architect Zaha Hadid
did at Goldsmiths
Fair 2014. Recently, she expanded
panded the
idea of Dichroma into metal-only
taal-only pieces,
incorporating various colours
urs of gold alloys
into a single piece. She hass now extended
this approach into a new co
collection
ollection called
Spectra, which is based on
n the subtle
shifting of hues within a piece.
ieece.
Surprisingly, jewellery wasn’t
wasn’t Beth’s
first love. She stumbled upon
po
on it by chance
during an art foundation co
course.
ourse. “Until
that point I had been moree interested in
fashion, shoe design and even
ven saddlery
courses! I had never considered
dered working
with metal, but I just fell in
n love with gold
from first introduction.” She
he honed her skills
in goldsmithing and jewellery
lery making at
Central St Martin’s and thee Royal College of
Art in London. These skillss clearly underpin
her studio practice and have
ve won her several
awards, the most recent being
eing an award from
the Goldsmiths Craftsmanship
nship and Design
Council.
Jewellery lovers all over the world have
started to notice Beth’s artistry, with an
increase in private clients in Asia.
Her typical client is a confident,
stylish, professional woman who
wants unique pieces to reflect
her individuality. “Often it’s
someone who says ‘I don’t wear
a lot of jewellery but I love your
work.’” She does a lot of private
commission work, while pieces
from her collections are available
at a number of specialist shops
and galleries in the UK, Europe and
North America. Currently, her work is on
display at the British Fashion Council’s Rock
Vault scheme curated by designer Stephen
Webster.
104
FACETS
PENDANTS
by Syahmin Ritzwan
losest to the heart — literally and figuratively — pendants usually carry
with them sentimental value. Among all jewellery, they tend to hold the
deepest of meanings, secrets and promises. The pendant is one of the
earliest forms of accessory — medieval men used rocks, bones or shells
and tied them with a vine or string to be worn around their neck. Over the years, the
pendants have become a symbol of assurance and a reminder of unconditional love;
and materials used are now mostly gold and precious stones.
106
FROM LEFT TO
RIGHT
Luna piccolissima
pendant from the
Alphonse Mucha “Sarah
Bernhardt” collection,
FREY WILLE; Rubellite
and ruby pendant
with white diamonds
in 18k white gold, ISE;
Ruby and diamonds
pendant in 22k gold and
oxidised sterling silver;
ARMAN SAKRISYAN;
Rock It! pendant cage,
ORNELLA IANNUZZI;
Be it a gift from a lover or an heirloom passed down through
generations, pendants that are kept and held dearly are considered
lucky charms or protective amulets. They are made to be detachable so
they can be used on different chains and necklaces or independently
as a brooch. Considered one of the most versatile jewellery, the
pendant highlights the fine curves of a female’s neck. Solitaire picks
out gold pendants from jewellery designers, such as Jewelmer, Victor
Mayer, Roberto Bravo and more, that help capture our intimate and
emotional moments.
FROM LEFT TO
RIGHT
Key pendant in 18k
rose gold, opalescent
white fire enamel,
diamonds and rubellite,
VICTOR MAYER;
Serpent Boheme long
necklace set with pavé
diamonds, in yellow
gold, BOUCHERON;
White flower pendant
featuring diamonds and
enamel, ROBERTO
BRAVO; Pendant with
keshi-shaped golden
South Sea pearls, set
in 18k yellow gold with
diamonds, JEWELMER;
Long necklace in
rose and yellow gold
with white and brown
diamonds from the
Ingrid collection,
MORAGLIONE
107
REVIEW
HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
by Maripet Ledesma Poso and Michelle Tay
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Le Grand Bleu necklace
in 14k gold, colour
sapphires, diamonds and
enamel, ROBERTO
BRAVO
Wild Rose necklace in
rose gold and diamonds,
FOPE
Mon Secret bracelet and
Guimard ring
(with diamonds) in 18k
gold with golden South
Sea pearl, JEWELMER
very March, Hong Kong is home to two
of the world’s biggest jewellery and gem
shows. Welcoming more than 76,000
buyers from 140 countries and regions,
the 32nd Hong Kong International Jewellery Show –
held in tandem with the 2nd Hong Kong International
Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show – was organised by the
Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC).
This year’s instalment proved to be bigger than last
year despite persistent global economic challenges,
HKTDC reported.
“The two shows recorded a slight increase in buyer
attendance. It is a very encouraging result,” shared
Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director.
Attendance from long-established markets such as the
US, the UK, Italy and Japan recorded a double-digit
Bigger, brighter Hong Kong jewellery
twin fairs
108
Madame Butterfly
bracelet in rose gold
with blue sapphires,
white and brown
diamonds and
semi-precious stones,
MORAGLIONE
percentage growth, while those from the
emerging markets such as South Africa, Israel
ael
and Thailand showed a significant growth —
strengthening Hong Kong’s stand as one of
the biggest jewellery sourcing hubs.
The seven-day jewellery twin fairs kicked
off with the opening of the Hong Kong
International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show on
March 2, giving visitors a peak at a great selection
ction of
diamonds, pearls and precious gemstones sourced
ourced all
the way from Brasil, China, India, Myanmar, Italy, the
US and South Africa. Two days later, the Hong
ng Kong
International Jewellery Show, which specialises
ises in
finished jewellery, followed suit, offering a grand
rand array
of masterpieces from all over the world — from
rom classic
to the contemporary. With the overlapping shows
hows in two
different venues, guests had the option to visit
sit different
booths, exhibitions, forums and seminars according
cording to
their preference. To complete the whole jewellery
ellery fair
experience, cocktails and fashion shows weree organised
to give both the guests and the exhibitors proper
oper venues
to network and showcase their products.
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP
This year’s twin fairs
proved to be bigger and
better despite global
economic challenges
A model showcasing high
jewellery pieces
Red imperial topaz
from Ouro Preto
and lavender
sapphire from ALine
GmbH
Blue Dolphin pendant
in diamonds and blue
sapphire, ORO TREND
Earrings in 18k white
gold with South
Sea pearls, YOKO
LONDON
Secretary for Commerce
and Economic
Development of the Hong
Different forums and
Kong SAR Government,
Gregory So (right), visited seminars were held
during the twin shows
Cally Kwong’s booth
109
STYLE
18k gold ring, bangles
and necklace featuring
elegant weaves called the
Novecento mesh from the
900 collection, FOPE
Ladies Moon Phase
Ref. 7121J-001 timepiece
featuring yellow gold case
inspired from vintage
Officer-style case,
PATEK PHILIPPE
110
111
STYLE
Pink gold earrings with
takhti cut amethysts,
amethyst beads, rubellite
beads and pavé diamonds;
Pink gold ring with takhti
cut amethyst and pavé
diamonds; Pink gold ring
with full pavé diamonds;
Pink gold bracelet with
full pavé diamonds; Pink
gold bracelet with takhti
cut amethysts, rubellite
beads and pavé diamonds;
Pink gold bracelet with
takhti cut amethyst, all
from the MVSA collection,
BULGARI
Ocean Biretrograde 36mm
Automatic 18k rose gold
timepiece with diamonds on
white light mother of pearl,
HARRY WINSTON
112
ANTI-CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP
18k rose gold black and
brown diamonds ring; 18k
rose gold black and white
diamonds bracelet; 18k
rose gold black and white
diamond pendant; 18k rose
gold diamond bangle; 18k
rose gold diamond ring, all
from EMPEROR
Astrale Eclipse Black Enamel
Ref. J012633202 timepiece in
rose gold, JAQUET DROZ
113
STYLE
18k rose gold rings and
earrings with diamonds and
onyx, all from EMPEROR
Royal Oak Offshore Quartz
in pink-gold case and white
rubber strap timepiece,
AUDEMARS PIGUET
114
TOP HANDS
Rose gold rings adorned
with round brilliant
diamonds and tourmaline,
ANNAMARIA CAMMILLI
BOTTOM HANDS
Rings from Endless,
Ipanema, Olga and Dancing
in the Rain collection;
Dancing in the Rain
bracelet, NANIS
Cat's Eye Day & Night
white mother-of-pearl
dial timepiece,
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
115
STYLE
Yellow gold ring with purple
sapphire with diamonds;
Lilac jadeite with diamonds;
Rose gold ring with garnet,
rubies, fancy colour
sapphires and diamonds;
Rose gold ring adorned
with purple sapphire with
diamonds; Rose gold bangle
with fancy colour sapphires,
all from LA PUTRI
18k pink gold necklace and
ear clips in matte finish;
18k pink gold ring (on hand
wearing watch) with pavé
diamonds, all from the X.F.
collection, QAYTEN
Reine de Naples in rose gold
Ref. 8928BR/51/J20 DD00
timepiece, BREGUET
116
ANTI-CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP
18k white gold ring with
diamonds and pink sapphire;
18k rose gold ring with
morganite and white, pink
and yellow diamonds;
18k rose gold bangle with
diamonds, all from YULI
INC. FINE JEWELLERY
Red gold Eros ring pavéd
with rubies and princess-cut
diamonds; Red gold Psyché
Daytime ring featuring two
butterflies pavéd with pink,
orange and yellow sapphires,
diamonds and tourmalines;
Psyché Wings ring with pink
sapphire pavéd with yellow,
orange and pink sapphires,
fire opals and diamonds, all
from LALIQUE
117
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124
WHY ARE WE HERE?
It is perhaps the most important question we have ever asked.
And possibly the most difficult to answer.
Trees as we know produce oxygen.
Birds and insects pollinate the plants that feed us.
We know that some animals need plants to survive.
And some animals need animals.
Giant whales couldn’t survive without tiny plankton.
Giant trees couldn’t survive without insects.
But could life on this planet survive without us?
WHAT IS OUR PURPOSE?
Of all the species that share this world, we are
the only one with the power to protect the entire planet.
The only one with the power to protect every species on this earth.
Including ourselves. Every species is here for a purpose.
Image courtesy NASA
And each of us has a part to play.
Let’s do ours.
WWW.ONEEARTH.ORG
craftsmanship.”
126
IF LUXURY IS YOUR LIFE,
WE SPEAK YOUR LANGUAGE
ORIENTAL PUBLISHING PTE LTD
120 Lower Delta Road #13-11
Cendex Centre, Singapore 169208
T: +65 6273 0620 F: +65 6273 0632
W: www.oriental-publishing.com
ORIENTAL MEDIA & EVENT SERVICES CO., LTD
44C Cuu Long Street, Ward 2,
Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
T: +84.8 3844 1612 F: +84.8 3846 2296
W: www.oriental-ltd.com
128
THE FINE ART OF JEWELLERY
WWW.SOLITAIREMAGAZINE.COM
The most recognised magazine title read and collected
by jewellery connoisseurs throughout the Asia Pacific
Solitaire Magazine
@solitaire_mag
@solitairemagazine
HOROSCOPE
Rose gold bangle with
diamonds, VERDI
HOROSCOPE
(21 MAY – 20 JUNE)
by Olive Cuenca
Showcasing how fabulous your life is on
social media and at work may earn you more
foe than friends. Be mindful of what you
share in both your professional and personal
life as it may promote envy and gossip. Be
genuine in your interactions and offer a
helping hand if needed. Beware of two-faced
friends. Pearls in titanium give its wearer an
understated elegance.
Be conscious of how you say things, as
misunderstandings are likely to occur. Assist
others in every possible way you can. Quartz
promotes luck to get you through each day.
(22 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER)
Disagreements are likely to occur due to
communication breakdown. Be transparent
and speak your mind. Choose your words
wisely to avoid aggravating an already sour
situation. A beach holiday is recommended.
Aquamarine, emerald and deep-blue
sapphires evoke beach colours.
(21 JUNE – 22 JULY)
Your financial luck will soar as the year
progresses, and you are likely to find yourself
getting busier with very important projects
and personal commitments. Save up for the
rainy days and avoid spending on impulse
or on investments that don’t give tangible
benefits. Citrine heightens awareness and
clarity.
(22 DECEMBER – 19 JANUARY)
Time to plan your next vacation! It’s normal
to feel the urge to just forget about work
for a while and indulge in life’s finer things.
The mantra “work hard, play hard” applies.
Health is robust, and so are finances. Invest
in coloured gemstones like ruby, emerald and
sapphire.
(JULY 23 – AUGUST 22)
Get your real intentions across before
embarking on a new endeavour, as
communication problems are bound to
happen, especially in business. Making
financial investments is not only about
earning money, but also about building
personal relationships. Entrust your dollars
only to people you know very well. It’s also
good to invest on your health, as you may
be susceptible to illnesses. Cat’s eye brings
understanding and discernment.
(20 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY)
Questions left unanswered may disrupt work
and hinder you from performing at your best.
Worrying won’t help. Remember that some
things are better left unanswered. Engage in
activities that will calm your mind and focus
your energy on things that matter. Citrine
promotes clarity of mind.
(AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22)
(19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH)
A career change is not recommended this
year. Keeping a low profile at your current
job may be beneficial. There will be a few
opportunities for you to earn extra income.
Be mindful of your time, though, as every
professional commitment you make will
translate to lost personal time. Keep your
communication lines open with family and
friends. Garnet enhances your career luck.
You may feel like your life is like running
a marathon lately, with so much tasks to
accomplish in such a limited time. It can
be exhausting. Keep your focus and take
everything one step at a time. Keep your
health in check. Now is a great time to start a
healthy lifestyle. Wear amber for vitality.
them one by one. Seek help if needed. Soon
you will be in your element again. Smokey
quartz promotes physical energy.
(23 SEPTEMBER – 22 OCTOBER)
You are bound to feel a little chaotic,
especially when there are too many things
going on at the same time. This has happened
to you before, and you gloriously rose above
all challenges. Take a breather, re-focus and
prioritise. Identify the problems and tackle
130
(23 OCTOBER – 21 NOVEMBER)
Sometimes it may feel like you are drowning
alone in a sea of complex tasks at work.
Speak up! Be proactive by delegating tasks
to others to increase the team’s productivity.
(21 MARCH – 19 APRIL)
Career success may seem elusive. It’s best to
stay positive rather than feel unhappy and
lose your interest at work. Find inspiration
in everything you do and deliver your best
no matter how menial the task may be.
Your efforts will soon be rewarded. Set
yourself apart with exotic gemstones such as
chrysoprase.
THE FINE ART OF JEWELLERY
WWW.SOLITAIREXUAN.COM
Presenting the Chinese-language version of Solitaire,
exclusively distributed in Singapore and Malaysia
Solitaire Magazine
@solitaire_mag
@solitairemagazine
RING
RING
GUIDE
GUIDE
Finding Your
Ring Size
Your Ring
Place your ring on top of any one of
these circles. The size of your ring is
where the circle sits snugly around
the inner circumference of the ring.
A ring is a very intimate piece of jewellery; some are worn
every day. This means it should fit well and feel comfortable,
so here are some important sizing tips.
12 (16.7MM)
2 (13.2MM)
3 (14MM)
13 (16.9MM)
1
4 (14.1MM)
1. Mia Luce ring in rose
gold and diamonds,
FOPE
2. Butterfly ring in
14k gold, colour
sapphire and enamel,
ROBERTO BRAVO
3. Mila Kunis Maternity
ring with Gemfields’
emerald, MARINA B
4. Ring in pink gold and
diamonds, VERDI
5. Caramella stack
rings, SETTE
14 (17
(17.3MM)
5
5 (14.3MM)
2
15 (17.7
(17.7MM)
6 (14.7MM)
3
16 (18.1MM)
7 (14.9MM)
4
8 (15.3MM)
17 (18.5MM)
9 (15.7MM)
Where Size Matters
A person’s ring size may change over time
owing to age, injury or weight change. A
jeweller may be able to resize your ring,
although this depends on its design.
If your finger falls between two sizes, choose
the larger size to make sure it will fit; a wider
ring may require a slightly larger size, because
it covers more of your finger.
Measure your finger size at the end of the day
when your fingers are at their largest (like
sizing shoes).
Wrap a piece of string or a strip of paper
around your finger. Mark the point where the
two ends meet. Measure the string or paper
against a ruler to get the circumference of
your finger. Divide that by 3.14 to get the
diameter of your finger. Look up your ring size
using the table shown on the right.
Don’t measure finger sizes when your hands
are cold; let them warm up to room
temperature.
18 (19.0MM)
10 (16.1MM)
19 (19.4MM)
11 (16.5MM)
(Sizing is for China, Singapore, Taiwan, Macau and
Japan; Hong Kong uses a different scale)
132
LIFE BEYOND FIRST CLASS
WWW.JETGALA.COM
Asia Pacific’s ultra luxury magazine with a focus
on private jet aviation and bespoke lifestyle for men
Jetgala Magazine
@jetgala
@jetgala
SHOW
FACETS
DIARY
April 2015
June 2015
J
October
O
t b 2015
31 MAR — 4 APR
38th MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show
Expo Centre Sharjah, UAE
www.mideastjewellery.com
25 — 28 JUNE
June Hong Kong and Gem Fair
1 Expo Drive, Wanchai, Hong Kong
www.events.ubm.com
9 — 18 OCT
JewelFest 2015
Ngee Ann City Civic Plaza, Singapore
14 — 16 APR
VICENZAORO Sao Paolo T-Gold
Expo Barra Funda, Brazil
sao-paulo.vicenzaoro.com
17 — 20 APR
Malaysia International Jewellery Festival
Spring Edition
Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, Malaysia
www.mij.com.my
23 — 26 APR
VICENZAORO Dubai Edition
Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai, UAE
www.vicenzaorodubai.com
May 2015
28 MAY — 1 JUN
Couture
Wynn, Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
www.thecoutureshow.com
29 MAY — 1 JUN
JCK Las Vegas
Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino, Las Vegas,
Nevada, USA
lasvegas.jckonline.com
134
July 2015
2 — 5 JULY
Singapore International Jewelry Expo 2015
Marina Bay Sands, Singapore
www.sije.com.sg
September 2015
5 — 9 SEP
VICENZAORO Fall
Vicenza, Italy
fall.vicenzaoro.com
10 — 14 SEP
56th Bangkok Gems and Jewellery Fair
Bangkok, Thailand
www.bangkokgemsfair.com
16 — 20 SEP
September Hong Kong and Gem Fair 2015
AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong
www.events.ubm.com
18 — 22 SEP
September Hong Kong and Gem Fair 2015
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre,
Hong Kong
www.events.ubm.com
30 SEP — 2 OCT
SIHH Watches & Wonders
Hong Kong
22 — 25 OCT
UBM-Singapore Jewelry and Gem Fair
Marina Bay Sands, Singapore
singaporejewellerygemfair.com
25 — 27 OCT
Valenza Precious Instinct
Valenza, Italy
30 OCT — 1 NOV
The Munich Show
Munich, Germany
www.munichshow.com
VIETNAM’S FIRST &
LEADING WATCH MAGAZINE
WWW.THOIGIAN-MAGAZINE.COM
Vietnam’s only watch magazine with
a proud and consistent ten-year history
Thoigian Magazine
JEWEL BOX
DE BEERS
by Maripet Ledesma Poso
A masterpiece as precious as time itself
constant reminder
that time
passes quickly,
the hourglass
exemplifies the cycle of life and the notion
of its finiteness. It symbolises the passage
of each fleeting moment, the brevity of
life. On the other hand, it reminds us
that, indeed, ‘time is precious’ and that we
should always make the most of it. Taking
this aphorism to heart, De Beers created a
masterpiece as precious as time itself.
The Starburst Diamonds 2000, a
breathtaking 24k gold-plated hourglass,
dazzles with approximately 2000 floating
diamonds inside a clear liquid, totalling
35 carats. Sitting beautifully in a goldplated brass self-illuminating stand
with four turned pillars, the hourglass
looks divine in all its blue, black and
gold sophistication. This elaborate time
teller was among the auctioned pieces
by Sotheby’s Hong Kong in its May 2013
Important Modern Watches Auction.
136