The Colourful Lives of the Fay Hut

Transcription

Vol. 18, No. 3
●
Fall
2003
The Colourful
Lives of the
Fay Hut
page 4
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Alberta, Canada T1W 2T8
Phone # (403) 678-3200
Fax # (403) 678-3224
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David Toole, President
Rod Plasman, Secretary
Gord Currie, Treasurer
Cam Roe, VP Activities
Peter Muir, VP Access / Environment
Carl Hannigan, VP Facilities
Bob Sandford, VP Mountain Culture
David Zemrau, VP Services
Mike Mortimer, Director, External Relations
Peter Fuhrmann, Honorary President
Bruce Keith, Executive Director
Submissions to The Gazette are welcome! The deadline
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Letter from the Editor
Mother Nature continued to reveal her darker side this summer and indifference to
our wilderness playground. Hard on the heels of the deadliest snowpack in decades, a
summer drought in the West left the backcountry dry as a tinderbox. Some 800 wildfires
raged through British Columbia alone, destroying entire ranges of forests along with whole
subdivisions of homes. Alpine Club Members felt the impact directly as well. First was
the wholesale closure by governments of access to huge tracts of backcountry in B.C. and
Alberta. Mountain communities were held hostage in their own towns, often smothered in
dense clouds of acrid smoke. And the winds which finally cleared the air only heightened
the fury of the uncontrollable flames. It was a bizarre time, looking out from your house or
campsite at hiking trails and climbing routes just out of reach.
Second, and more symbolically, the Fay Hut was razed to the ground by the Tokkum
Creek fire. This secluded gem was the first backcountry hut established by the fledgling
Alpine Club some 75 years ago. A tragic loss to our Members.
As the smoke dissipates, questions are raised. Namely, are we managing our aging forests
correctly? And, is this another symptom of the global warming phenomena? While the
experts carry out their studies and debate our stewardship of the mountain environment, the
seasons march on. Soon winter snows will cover the ground, lending stark beauty to the
blackened landscape… and the cycle of regeneration begins.
Bonnie Hamilton
Letter to the Editor
Dear Editor:
I am concerned by the Club’s moves to increase occupancy at the Clubhouse by
advertising it in non-Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) publications and by affiliating it with the
youth hostel federation. My concern is purely selfish - I’m afraid that I’ll find the Clubhouse
or huts full if I don’t book a month or more in advance.
The Clubhouse is my home away from home when I’m visiting the Rockies. ‘Home is
the place, when you have to go there, they have to take you in.’ If the Clubhouse is booked
solid for July and August, it’s no longer my home. I don’t want the ACC run like a business
– I want it run like a club. I don’t want “my” clubhouse filled with non-members, with me
left outside.
David Brown
What’s Inside...
Editorial
3 Letter from the Editor
3 Lettter to the Editor
Mountaineering / Climbing
6 With Thanks Brad
8 One and a Half Hours of Perfection
10 Making Canadian Mountaineering
History
11 A Toolbox Full of Skills
16 Emotions Run High on Mt.
Athabasca
17 General Mountaineering Camp
– looking forward to 2004
Awards / Notices / Classified Ads
18 14th Annual Mountain Guides’ Ball
23 Awards, Awards, Awards
23 Classified Ads
Facilities
4 The Colourful Lives of Fay Hut
Mountain Culture
8 Video Guide Highlights Thunder
Bay Ice
12 Mountain Photography
19 Canadians Climbing in High Style
19 CAJ Promo Winners
21 New Bugaboos Guidebook Rocks!
International News
14 Water, Water Everywhere...
18 Global Warming Trends
National News
20 ACC Renames Hut
22 National Office News
22 Volunteers Required for ACC
Centennial Events
22 Volunteering = Free Ticket
What’s Outside...
Front cover: Fay Hut with Lawrence Grassi
& Sidney Vallance – Courtesy of the Whyte Museum
Back cover: Yamnuska & the Bow River; photo by Richard Berry
Alpine Club of Canada ● Gazette ● Fall 2003
3
The Colourful Lives of Fay Hut
by Amy Krause
On
August 1, 2003 the Alpine Club
of Canada’s (ACC) Fay Hut
was destroyed in a forest fire. Fay was the
first backcountry hut built and operated
by the ACC, erected in 1927 on a bench
overlooking the Tokumm Valley in a remote
corner of Kootenay National Park, British
Columbia.
Parks Canada spokesperson, Shelley
Humphries, reported that the Tokumm
Creek blaze was one of eight fires ignited in
Banff, Kootenay and Yoho National Parks
between July 30 and August 1, 2003. Fire
response was prioritized based on proximity
to locations with people and structures at
risk. With resources stretched to capacity,
the hut and nearby campground could not
be saved. Fires in the region also destroyed
the bridge near the Floe Lake trailhead, the
campground theatre at Marble Canyon,
park warden station garage and a second
bridge.
Nancy Hanson, ACC Director, Facilities
& Mountaineering, reports that the ACC is
currently working with Parks Canada to
consider options for the future of Fay Hut.
A decision will be made in the coming
months.
Fay Hut withstood major windstorms
in 1949 and 1961, bear burglary, packrat
infestations, boozing by Lake Louise
summer staff and even a death sentence,
when it was slated to be burned and
replaced by a plaque. It seems that only
nature could have destroyed Fay Hut. Its
blackened remains belie a colourful life.
The Fay Hut – winter 2003
4
Fay Hut’s story begins at the ACC’s
1925 Lake O’Hara camp. Around the
fire, someone suggested the Club build a
permanent backcountry hut. “Such hut,”
claimed then ACC President J.W. Hickson,
“would enable members to make a round
of tours under reasonable conditions apart
from the annual camps.”
A fundraising committee was quickly
struck and a reconnaissance mission
undertaken in May 1926.
The search began in Prospectors’ Valley,
which the Swiss guides had recommended
knowing that the adjacent summits, in the
Valley of the Ten Peaks near Moraine Lake,
had not yet been climbed. The scouting
party traveled up Marble Canyon to
Kaufmann Lake, traversed the shoulder of
Mount Tuzo and “found a splendid location
for a hut upon a high plateau,” overlooking
the Tokumm Valley and cooled by the
breath of Fay Glacier1. Sam Ward, of Banff,
was awarded the building contract and
construction began in autumn 1926.
The proposed hut site was spectacular
but posed challenges. According to hut’s first
register entry, “The work was carried out
under considerable difficulty. Packhorses
could only be brought to the foot of the cliff
below the hut and all material was packed
by Mr. Ward and his men up the cliff.”
Because of this, it was deemed impractical
to build the hut as originally planned – of
stone.
On July 1, 1927 Fay Hut hosted its first
guests. Four women and five men, including
fundraising committee and club executive
Photo by Emil Kaminski
members who signed their names with
care in the first hut register. The register
can be viewed at Banff ’s Whyte Museum
of the Canadian Rockies. It is salted with
handwritten messages from celebrated
climbers such as Rudolph Aemmer and
Georgia Engelhard and includes the
following inscription, barely decipherable
for the tremor in writer’s hand:
“Thanks to Dr. Hickson I have the great
pleasure of visiting in my twenty-fifth visit
to the Canadian Rockies this hut in the
naming of which so great an honour was
done me.”
Dr. Charles P. Fay, the hut’s namesake,
visited the hut in 1930 at the age of 85. Fay
was a professor of modern languages, former
president of the American Alpine Club and
a highly accomplished mountaineer. He
was also an outspoken advocate of climbing
in Canada when Canadian politicians
threatened to ban the sport after the
Canadian Rockies’ first mountaineering
death in 1896.
Fay Hut remained popular for many
years, even after additional ACC huts
were constructed. Unfortunately, register
entries reveal it was also popular with local
wildlife.
“June 24, 1952 – hut completely and
thoroughly ransacked by bear. Pots & pans
strewn all over, stove turned upside down.
Windows were broken, etc., etc.” Of the
locals, however, none were better known
than the legendary Fay Hut packrat.
“Promptly at 11:00 a loud scampering
on the roof, loud chewing and pulling on
boards, bending of tin covers, frequent
appearances at windows looking in
1
Report of the Hut Fund Committee, The Gazette, #11, June 1926. p.14
– obviously frustrated and very disgruntled
at not being able to enter his property.
At this point Bob and I decided to take
the offensive and meet the enemy on his
ground. We proceeded outside, whereupon
there was a most exciting chase around the
cabin… until Bob finally found him…
blinded him with his extra bright flashlight
and I soundly dispatched him with several
resounding whacks.”
In 1972 the hut was turned over to
Kootenay Park for maintenance, with
$2000 worth of repairs made. During the
1970s however, ‘wildlife’ included Lake
Louise area summer staff who made the trek
to Fay Hut an annual tradition. They and
others came not to climb but to party and
the elderly hut fell into a state of disrepair.
By the late 1980s, Kootenay Park
wardens had struggled too long to keep
the antiquated hut in livable condition. Fay
Hut was slated for demolition. The plan was
to burn it and erect a plaque in its place. It
might have happened, were it not for Peter
Fuhrmann.
“As mountaineers,” Fuhrmann mused,
“we are always thinking of steep rock and
steep snow, but the majority of people who
go into the mountains need a place to go to
feel safe where there are not a multitude of
objective hazards. Without the hut, the area
precludes them.”
Fuhrmann, a legend in his own right
with long years of experience in the area
as a professional mountain guide and Parks
Canada’s safety specialist, believed the
site was vital to allow intermediate level
mountaineers to access terrain at their skill
level in the region. The Neil Colgan hut was
too far from Marble Canyon and its other
approaches too technical. In Fuhrmann’s
eyes, Fay was also key to a highline traverse
from Marble Canyon to Lake Louise, a
route he felt would be one of the finest in
the world, but impossible without Fay Hut.
Fuhrmann and his colleague Hans
Fuhrer convinced Kootenay National
Park and the ACC executive the hut was
worth saving and sought to raise $16,000
for renovations – more than eight times
the amount invested in its original
construction.
Recognizing Fay as an historic resource
and Kootenay’s only backcountry hut, the
Park superintendent contributed $6000.
The ACC’s Rocky Mountain Section raised
another $10,000 and in the summer of
1991 an ACC work crew gave Fay Hut a
new lease on life and assumed responsibility
for the site.
After the renovation, which included
larger windows and a propane heating
and lighting system, overnight stays at Fay
Hut increased from 250 in 1992 to over
530 stays in 2002. People came for the
north faces and ice couloirs that still pose
significant challenges but also to enjoy less
technical terrain with family and friends.
Until August 1, Fay Hut remained a
key stopover in the Marble Canyon to
Lake Louise traverse and the only hut
in the region that provided intermediate
mountaineers with access to peaks of
this level, without presenting significant
objective hazards on the
approach.
Fay Hut Register 1927
courtesy of the Whyte Museum
It was also, a just plain charming place
to be.
“I hope that someday the fad of
mountaineering will wear off in my country
and the few of us who climb for the pure joy of
it will be able to keep up our huts as this one is.
Thank you all who made possible this fine Fay
Hut.” — Tom Creasy, Corvallis, Oregon,
August 1, 1937
Special thanks to Elizabeth KundertCameron, Craig Richards, Nancy Hansen,
Shelley Humphries and Peter Fuhrmann for
their generous assistance in preparing this
article.
The Fay Hut – August 2003
photo by Shelley Humphries
5
Cyril Shokoples & Brad Harrison on Mt. Chaba
With Thanks Brad
by Bonnie Hamilton
For
many years people have
spoken about the General
Mountaineering Camp (GMC) like it was
a pilgrimage to Mecca; everyone should do
it at least once in their lives. Guides, camp
coordinators, staff and guests all speak about
the special atmosphere, the sense of history
and the camaraderie encircling the camps,
not just the climbing. This atmosphere
for the last 19 years has been due in large
part to one single person. This person had
the perseverance and vision to bring a
mountaineering experience to Alpine Club
members like no other in the world. His
name is Brad Harrison.
Brad has been involved in the camp
since the age of three, when he rode his
brother’s horse into camp via the Ice River.
He’s attended every camp since then, except
in 1967, when his father didn’t want to
take him all the way to the Yukon. Brad’s
father, Bill Harrison, was an outfitter who
worked with legendary characters such
as Conrad Kain, the Feuz brothers, J.
Munroe Thorington and Lizzie Rummel.
Over the years he guided and outfitted for
mining, hunting, fishing and survey parties.
Beginning in 1954 in the Goodsir Range,
Brad and Bill have been associated with
every subsequent GMC.
After almost 30 years of watching and
helping his father, Brad took over in 1984.
The GMC was having financial problems
and the ACC decided to turn everything
over to Brad after reviewing his proposal,
with the condition that if he could make
a profit, the GMC would continue. They
pocketed $1100 dollars that summer.
6
Brad is just as committed to making the
GMC a success today as he was back then.
During the summer of 2003, his typical day
ran 13 to 19 hours or longer, beginning as
early as three a.m., making breakfast and
waking climbers. Brad’s list of chores is huge
and includes everything from construction
to cooking, from managing employees to
guiding. One task Brad always keeps in
the fore is the fun factor for his guests. At
one camp where two people were in the
Canadian Rockies for the first time and
where most daytrips were too forbidding for
them, Brad organized a slower, easier peak
even though he had a huge list of everyday
jobs to complete. It was the highlight of
their trip and the only peak they got up.
Two of Brad’s favorite guests are Louise
and Richard Guy. They are much a part of
the reason the GMC exists today, as it was
their hard work, commitment and passion
for the mountains that kept the camp going
in the 80s. Louise even wrote personal
invitations to encourage guests to sign up
for the next summer’s camp!
Last year Brad was chatting with Louise
and she said the hardest part was getting off
the ground in the morning. “Once they’re
up they’re rolling,” Brad said. So this year
when they showed up for camp, Brad had
built a double-wide bed for them complete
with a thick foamy covered with cotton
sheets.
Brad’s enthusiasm and compassion for
his guests extends to his employees as well.
As veteran guide Helen Sovdat explains, “I
keep coming back for the camp atmosphere
and because Brad’s work ethic and energy
inspires me.” She recalled a guest who was
very keen on a trip but upon discovering
Helen was the guide announced he wasn’t
going. Brad took it upon himself to inquire
into the motivations of this decision and
discovered it was, in fact, Helen’s femaleness
that scared him off. Brad convinced the
guest Helen was a very competent guide
and it would be a great outing. Brad then
returned to Helen in the cook tent with
only two words; “Bury him.” It’s said
that guest returned the next day from the
outing, “crawling on his knees,” and with
much more respect for Helen.
Being very protective, Brad takes it upon
himself to ensure everyone’s holiday is safe
and very memorable. A true mountain man,
he rose to meet the challenge when a black
bear began pestering the camp. Brad walked
outside where the bear was sniffing about
and decided to scare it off with a rock. He
picked it up, took aim and threw it. The
rock hit the bear right between the eyes and
was never heard from again.
“Every year, Brad does something to
make our lives easier. It’s important to him
that our work is comfortable,” says Laurie
MacMillan, a cook for nine years. “At the
Moby Dick camp, Brad came into the
cook tent and told us he had some extra
wood and asked what he could build to
help us out, thinking maybe we could use
something practical like an extra table. We
told him a nice lounge chair would be nice.
He rolled his eyes, shook his head, mumbled
under his breath and walked out. We sort of
forgot about it until he came back a while
photo by Billl Milsom
later with a three person lounger complete
with three reclining positions! We were sort
of surprised, but then that’s Brad.”
Brad’s organizational skills and
dedication trickle down to the kitchen and
like any vibrant home, that is where the
heart is. Watching the synergy of the cooks
as they flow about the cook tent is truly an
honour. The preparation of complicated,
delicious dishes in a rustic kitchen straight
out of the early 1900s, complete with a
moraine for a floor, is carried out with
much passion.
“It’s my favourite kitchen in the world,”
says Sarah Harper, an expert cook of 10
years. The contentment and happiness in
that kitchen is contagious.
“It’s the love that goes into the food
which makes it taste so good,” Laurie
confesses. “I come here because I love it and
for no other reason.”
Is there any greater reason?
As Cyril Shokoples, a GMC guide since
1981 says, “It’s the history of the camp,
community with the guests and the tightknit guiding atmosphere that brings me
back.”
And as Paul Gray, a camp veteran says,
“Man, I’ve become friends with the staff
and guests and they’ve become family. I
look so forward to coming every year just to
see everyone!”
The efforts taken by Brad have been
very proactive and sometimes ingenious,
in keeping up with the times to make his
camp a better place. One year there was a
gastrointestinal bug that plagued the camp,
so Brad took it upon himself to talk to many
specialists, including an epidemiologist
about sanitary conditions and how they
could be improved. He came up with the
idea of using a foot pump for hand washing
stationed strategically around camp. It seems
this simple act of religious, antiseptic hand
washing has made the camps even safer than
being out in the general population.
His role as a steward of the environment
must also be applauded. In his father’s era,
hundreds of guests attended the camps
with no thought to the damage done on
the landscape. It’s a different time now and
the pressures from various jurisdictions,
including the ACC itself, have demanded
environmental impact take a priority. Brad’s
proactive role in making sure all the camps
are self-contained and don’t leave a trace
have left little for the bureaucrats to say.
There are even before and after photos to
prove it.
Brad’s inventiveness can sometimes
Before he joined the Ski Patrol at Whistler Blackcomb and set
the new first responder record, Charlie Buchanan spent his
time with the U.S. Military training as a Navy Seal, parachuting
at night from 27,000 feet, breaking in and out of submarines
and learning survival techniques in jungle, desert and
arctic regions. So it goes without saying he’s no
stranger to living in harsh conditions. Which is
probably why Charlie feels so at home in cold
steel. The Cold Steel Jacket from Marmot. He
knows that no matter how intense the weather
gets, his Cold Steel Jacket will give him a bombproof barrier against any assault mother nature
can stage on him. He relies on the Cold Steel’s
False Twist Nylon and Gore-Tex® XCR shell to
keep him warmer and more comfortable than any other guide
jacket when the temperatures drop like the cliffs and cornices
he places warning signs in front of at Whistler Blackcomb. He
depends on it’s amazing breathability so he can stay drier and
warmer. And he likes the fact that it’s designed with
Stretch Gore-Tex® panels, anatomic articulation and
Angel-Wing movement. So he’s not only totally comfortable in Cold Steel, he can bend and flex in it too.
It’s no wonder people who work outdoors for
a living are the inspiration for the clothing
that works for them. The Cold Steel
Jacket from Marmot. Count on it.™
Photo Bruce Rowles
It takes a Ski Patroller and former Navy Seal
to fully appreciate the comfort
that can only come from Cold Steel.
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lead to comical situations, such as during
the Clemenceau camp where participants
experienced the worst weather in the history
of the camps, climbing only 11 out of 28
days. Brad was using his radio by bouncing
signals off the nearby peaks, but with heavy
snowfall it wasn’t working anymore. Brad
convinced a couple of guides to lug the
radio, heavy car battery and antennae to the
nearby ridgetop.
“There we are in a complete whiteout,
in a raging storm trying to hold up this
huge antennae, freezing our fingers with
the winds cutting through us, while Brad
sat comfortably underneath a tarp trying to
reach the base,” recalls Cyril Shokoples. “It
was almost more than we could bear when
we heard him finally get through to a CMH
lodge and start chatting up Tiffany while we
suffered in that weather.”
Well, that’s Brad, I guess.
No matter what the challenge,
profitability, liability, environmental or
health issues, Brad has risen to the challenge.
Unfortunately for us, he feels it’s time to
move on to other pursuits and his future
involvement in the GMC will be smaller.
He wants to take some time off for himself,
do some climbing and develop his other
interests. In addition to the GMC, Brad is
part-owner of Golden Alpine Holidays, a
company that owns three lodges catering to
backcountry hikers and skiers, plus he holds
down a fulltime job with Air Canada.
Thanks for everything Brad.
7
One and a Half Hours of Perfection
by Nick Buda
I
am a perfectionist. Noting the signs
of imperfection that litter my life,
you would be inclined to disagree. My
disorganized office. Late for everything.
My procrastination. My profession, though
dominated by numbers, is as imperfect
as science allows while still maintaining
credibility. Don’t even talk to me about
girls.
My pursuit of perfection does not
show itself in an obvious, easily observable
form though. On very rare and precious
occasions, it manifests itself. Due to the
nature of my passion though, it is usually
only shared by one other person, if with
anyone at all. And while these others may
be there, they are most often not completely
aware of what has transpired.
I pursue perfection in my ice climbing.
I obsess over it sometimes. In ice climbing,
I believe perfection is achieved in numerous
ways, relative to and interpreted by its
participants. For me, it is achieved only
Nick Buda at Kama Bay
rarely, when I climb a perfect pitch. For
me, this means leading a climb at my limit
in good style, or soloing. Thus far in my
climbing career, I have experienced one
such pitch. The experience is still affecting
and changing me a week later.
Fortunately, I am a very patient
individual. It began early in the season,
when I heard a particularly aesthetic
climb was in excellent condition. I went
up for a look with a favorite partner and
close friend. It was during the 45-minute
approach, during most of which the climb
is in full view that I realized perfection
wasn’t happening that day - nor any form
of climbing for that matter. The climb was
in perfect condition - a perfect freestanding
pillar topped with a powerful-looking
overhanging curtain, above which was a
whole lot of steep, exposed, pumpy ice.
Protection looked possible but difficult.
The excuse (or logic, depending how you
look at things), was that it was too cold to
climb such a feature.
photo by Leah Knutson
I was back with two
more close friends as soon as
the next warm day arrived.
I began, surmounting the
crux with horrible style, lots
of hangdogging on screws.
It was not the day. Not the
way I wanted to climb it.
Emotionally spent, I retreated.
One month later I returned
after another deep freeze. The climb had
changed in character. Much more sustained,
gently overhanging for a long ways. And a
nasty looking cave at the top. It was harder
than I thought. Still, I kept motoring up
until I paid for my impatience (not waiting
for a prolonged mild spell). The wild
temperature fluctuations had left the fragile
ice features on the climb under tension. I
pulled one off and tried to eat it as it fell.
Stars. Blood. Numb arm. Feet dangling.
Awareness, control, resetting of feet in the
ice. And again, retreat.
Ideal conditions came and went, but I
left things alone. I was alone in my thoughts.
Strong partners offered belays, but I made
excuses. I realized after getting spanked on
several moderates that something wasn’t
right. No head for this stuff. I quit. Very
nearly sold six years worth of ice climbing
gear. I retreated into trips, work and a messy
personal life. Hiding behind these, I noticed
the balance was missing. I needed perfection
just once this winter.
Time for a change. I hop in the car
one morning instead of going to the
office, without even bothering to cancel
an important meeting. I seek a new
perspective. I park at the river and begin the
pleasant walk upstream, listening to water
rushing beneath the ice and losing myself
in thought and rhythm. Barely stopping
to attach crampons, I’m soon lost in the
magnificent ambience of a classic ice climb.
Video Guide Highlights Thunder Bay Ice
by Rob Alexander
With
the hot days of August gone and the cool days of October
setting in, only one thing remains on the horizon: winter.
And with winter comes ice and with ice comes ice climbing.
And Jevon Hagen wants you to be ready for the ice climbing season with his
recently finished video guide to ice climbing in the Thunder Bay, Ontario area.
Not intended as a comprehensive guide, Midwest Ice: A Guide to the Thunder Bay
Ice Climbs gives ice climbers from other regions a view of what Thunder Bay has to
offer. With that knowledge, it’s then up to them to get more information, if needed.
In this guide, Hagen features 14 climbs in the Feaver Falls, Pigeon
River, The Bowl, Pillers of Pearl, Dorion Loop and Orient Bay Areas.
Each segment of the video, just under 10 minutes long, starts with a
general shot of the waterfall, its name and grade. The shot then moves
in tighter for a better view of what some of the climbs have to offer.
Hagen filmed and edited the video guide with
a $500 grant from the Alpine Club of Canada’s
(ACC) Helly Hansen Mountain Adventure Award.
For more information try Thunder Bay Ice Flows, go to
www.norlink.net/~alpinecc/local-ice.shtml
8
Soloing through the crux, I’m completely
lost in the sound of metal and ice, the
hypnotic soundtrack of the river rushing
below. It’s over in ten minutes, but the
mental state is not. I’m back where I want
to be, ready for a challenge again.
I begin to look at my nemesis differently.
I know I can do it. It is just a matter of
approaching it the right way. I have the
experience to protect it properly. I know
I can hang from an arm indefinitely to
arrange protection. I know it is getting
rotten in the sun, but I’m confident it
will still be manageable in a few weeks
time. I need to tackle a few similar but less
committing routes first. Dump tones of gear
into other climbs to get used to it. Hit the
gym a little harder to max out the lock-off
power. Remember the sport climbing moves
from summer to climb the wild features in
style. Remember how to turn desperation
into art. Forget about my complicated
personal life for the time being. Relax! I
want this BAD.
With this new outlook, my climbing
improves instantly. I begin ticking
longstanding projects and actually enjoy it!
I solo half a dozen classics in an afternoon.
I remember the joy of the thoughtful,
gymnastic movements extreme ice requires.
It’s time.
Attempt number three. A new partner,
but one I have come to completely trust in
a short time. I approach, relaxed, ready to
endure and perhaps even enjoy. I rack up
and I’m off. I will myself to climb through
the pump. I relax as each carabiner snaps
shut. Elvis takes a hold of my leg and then
falls away. Stay in control. I get through the
initial pumpfest, making efficient use of
ridiculous stemming on wild ice features.
I tackle a particularly awkward series of
overhanging cauliflowers perfectly, using
drop knees, flagging a leg for balance.
My swings are just enough to go on, no
wasted energy, no exaggerated testing
of placements. I find no hand rests on
overhanging terrain. Ridiculous! Even a
hand jam. A feature breaks, this time I’m
ready and in control and manage to deal
with it. I dispatch the cave with style. I’m
giggling now, it’s just so right.
Everything is ideal. The pump is that
perfect sort where you enjoy the pain a bit,
but can shake it out. The moves are the
wildest I’ve done on pure ice. I only move
up when the gear is acceptable. I endure,
and ultimately enjoy.
At the top, my eyesight has improved
immeasurably. Everything is sharper and
clearer. The air seems remarkably fresh and
clean. The pitch was perfect. My partner
concurs.
I did the whole thing on my own terms,
with just the right amounts of uncertainty
and control. Realizing that the pitch was
actually well within my limits, my eyes are
now opened to possibilities. Next season,
I will pursue even harder routes. I will
continue my pursuit of perfection. I am,
after all, a perfectionist.
9
Making Canadian Mountaineering History
by Lynn Martel
Nancy
Hansen admits she’s
a “list person.” She
especially likes making ‘to do’ lists. And
on Monday, September 1, 2003 Hansen
finished a ‘to do’ list that earned her a
place in Canadian mountaineering history
by becoming the first woman – and only
sixth person overall, to climb all 54 of the
Canadian Rockies peaks over 11,000 feet
(3353 metres), by climbing Banff National
Park’s highest peak, 3612 m Mount Forbes.
Hansen decided to climb the Rockies’
54 not long after bagging her first peak,
3543 m Mount Temple via the standard
southwest ridge route in 1994. Apart from
the satisfaction of ticking off a list, 34-yearold Hansen, the Alpine Club of Canada’s
Director of Facilities & Mountaineering,
said she is often asked, “why?”
“I’ve been asking myself that question
for some time,” Hansen laughed. “It seemed
like an achievable goal. It was something
that would be continuously challenging
over the years because of the variety and
difficulty of the peaks.”
That technical difficulty ranged from
a straightforward scramble up Temple’s
standard route to arguably the Rockies most
majestic and elusive peak, 3619 m Mount
Alberta on August 28, 2001.
“Bill Corbett and I climbed it in quite
challenging conditions,” Hansen recalled.
“It hadn’t been climbed in two years and
it didn’t get climbed again until the next
summer.”
The outing took “three days and a
bit”, with two bivouacs, one lower on the
Lyell 3
10
photo by Colin Jones
mountain and one on the
narrow summit ridge.
“It was very cold,”
Hansen admitted. “We
used ice blocks for pillows,
looking down on other
11,000 foot peaks.”
In addition to Corbett,
four other Calgary men
have climbed the 54, with
Don Forest being the first
in 1979 and two others
finishing their lists earlier Mt. Alberta Summit Ridge
photo by Nancy Hansen
this summer.
Some of the 11,000 ers are recognizable
could go where they wanted.
and frequently climbed Rockies landmarks,
Her quest yielded some great and some
including world famous Lake Louise
not so great memories, most notably a fall
backdrop 3464 m Mount Victoria, 3618 m
on Mount Goodsir South in August 2002
Mount Assiniboine and the Rockies highest,
that left her battered and bruised with a
3954 m Mount Robson, while others, such
broken bone in her neck and ligament
as Mount Harrison, near B.C.’s Whiteswan
damage to her lower back.
Provincial Park are rather obscure.
She recuperated quickly and managed to
During one long drive Hansen compiled
complete another list – climbing a different
another list – this one of statistics. Her quest
rock route on Mount Yamnuska (only 2235
involved 25,000 km of driving, 3000 of
m) each month in 2002.
which took place on bumpy logging roads
Some of the 54 summits required more
(yes, she wore out a truck), hiking 1800
than one attempt, the most elusive being
km and climbing 114,300 vertical metres.
Robson’s neighbour, 3395 m Whitehorn
Only seven of the climbs did not involve an
Mountain, whose peak she finally reached
overnight stay.
on her fourth try. On her first attempt she
Her many “awesome” partners depended
was turned back by minus 36 temperatures
on who had the days off and who was willing
and a whiteout, the second time – also in
to slog long distances carrying a heavy pack.
winter – by a “manpower shortage” needed
Hansen said she appreciated the support
to break trail in deep snow. The third time
of her family and friends and especially
warm temperatures rendered the snow too
that of her husband, Doug Fulford who
soft and dangerous just 200 metres from
accompanied her on about half the climbs.
the summit.
She was also particularly grateful to her
“That was a real heartbreaker,” Hansen
boss, Bruce Keith, who allowed her to take
admitted.
days off whenever the sun was shining.
Some of the peaks she climbed more
One of her favourite trips was a
than once, including Temple, which she
weeklong expedition to climb Mount
climbed via the classic but more challenging
Clemenceau, 3658 m and neighbouring
East Ridge on her second trip. In doing so
Mount Tusk, 3360 m.
she also shortened the time span for her feat
“Just to get in there was a spectacular
to seven years and 49 days, accomplishing
drive on a 200 km long logging road, then
it the shortest time yet, a detail she said in
we had to cross seven glaciers,” Hansen said.
the spirit of good humour might qualify it
“It had an incredible feel of remoteness.”
as a speed ascent on Will Gadd’s website,
Another memorable weekend took
www.gravsports.com
place on Mount Tsar in 1998. Thirteen
When asked about her future goals,
hours after leaving the car, Hansen and her
Hansen replied with a wink, “There will be
three partners still had a long way to go to
no more lists.”
the summit. Two wanted to turn around,
but Hansen and her frequent climbing
partner, Colin Jones, wanted to carry on.
The solution was simple – Hansen cut their
Reprinted with permission from the
single climbing rope in half so everyone
Rocky Mountain Outlook
A Toolbox Full of Skills
by Markus Kellerhals
‘Tools
not rules.’ That simple
phrase sums up much
of what we learned in an action-packed
week at Snowy Pass. Each time we lead a
group in the mountains we have to solve
the ‘problem’ of how to reach our objective
in a safe, enjoyable and efficient manner.
Rather than solving these problems with a
rigid set of rules and procedures, Cyril and
Helen demonstrated and taught a leading
approach that uses a flexible ‘toolbox’ of
gear, techniques and even attitudes to solve
the ever-changing puzzle of mountain
leadership.
We began our week on Saturday with
a stunning helicopter ride from a staging
area in the Sullivan River drainage to the
General Mountaineering Camp (GMC),
located at Snowy Pass, just west of the
Columbia Icefields. Tumbling icefalls, huge
limestone cliffs and innumerable waterfalls
passed by in a scenic blur. A few minutes
later we landed a short distance from camp,
beside two of the most scenic outhouses in
the Canadian Rockies. The rest of the day
we spent moving into our assigned tents,
hiking around the lakes and meadows in
the immediate vicinity of camp and in some
cases catching up on the background course
reading.
A few of the leadership participants had
been at previous GMCs, but for most of us
it was a first time experience. We were all
impressed with the effort and organization
that had obviously gone into the set-up
and operation of the camp. Throughout
our week Brad and his team of volunteers
and staff kept the camp running smoothly
and all of the participants well fed. About
the only complaint I heard was related to
overeating - not something we can blame
the organizers for!
Our week was a mix of skills days and
peak days. The skills days were spent close
to camp practicing basic mountaineering
skills such as anchor-building, piton-craft,
belaying, short-roping and crevasse rescue.
Although many in the group had learned
and used these skills before, we all benefited
from the practice and most of us learned a
few new tricks as well. The peak days were
our chance to put many of these skills to
use as we each took turns leading the group,
route-finding and trying to move efficiently
through the transitions from glacier travel
to short-roping to belayed climbing and
back again. Early in the week we traveled
together as one big group to easier
destinations relatively close to camp. Later
in the week we split into smaller groups
heading for more ambitious destinations.
We didn’t spend all our time in the
great outdoors. Our classroom sessions
took place either in the drying tent or the
slightly greater comfort of the tea tent.
Uber-techie Cyril told us about the various
types of radios and their uses and gave us
an abbreviated course on the pitfalls of
GPS. Helen talked about trip-planning and
showed us the components of the typical
guide’s pack. After seeing all the different
stuff Helen pulled out of her rucksack we
still can’t understand why she always had
the trimmest pack in the group.
We also spent time, both in the
classroom and on the mountain, discussing
the ‘soft skills’ of leadership such as decision
making and dealing with conflict. Here,
more than ever, the credo of ‘no rules’
seems to apply. One situation may call for
democracy, another for autocracy. Without
exception, we all had a stock of anecdotes
on the pitfalls of leadership, often from
some dysfunctional trip in the past, to share
with the group.
Aside from Cyril and
Helen’s excellent teaching
and demonstrations, one
of the great things about this course was the
chance to meet club members from a variety
of sections across the country. We all met
new friends, traded ideas about how things
are done in our section and planned and
dreamt about future climbing trips.
Participants in the 2003 Alpine Club of
Canada/The North Face Summer leadership
Course were Sandy Sauer, Pattie Roozendaal,
Markus Kellerhals, Ray Norman, Tristen
Rasmussen, Arthur Buziak, Tanya Binette,
Paul Baker and Al Huggett. Helen Sovdat,
Cyril Shokoples and Brad Harrison were
our illustrious guides.
Photo by Pattie Roozendal
11
Mountain Photogr
photo and story by Richard Berry
For
me, there is nothing more
exciting than being in a remote,
beautiful place at sunrise and capturing the
brief interaction of magically lit clouds and
mountains on film.
Finding
a
balance
between
mountaineering and photography has
always been difficult. As climbers we want
a camera that is unobtrusive, reliable and
easy to operate. As photographers we
need controllable, quality optics, accurate
exposure measurements, fill flash and
some means of support to create wonderful
images of our mountain adventures.
Digital cameras are rapidly reaching the
same image quality as film cameras but still
have some limitations. My decision at the
moment is to use film for at least another
year before making the transition to digital,
so this article will concentrate on using film
cameras.
The best time of day for creating
dramatic landscape photographs are the
hours around sunrise and sunset. The
low light and deep shadows combined
with slow film speeds require exposures
of several seconds. These long exposures
mean that the camera must be supported.
The last thing we want to do is to haul a
tripod around the mountains, so what are
our alternatives? Take a small beanbag and
look around for natural props. The beanbag
allows the camera to be easily orientated
while composing the photograph. If there
are no natural props, then use the beanbag
with a pack or your camera bag. Turn the
camera’s self-timer on before composing
and then press the shutter release gently
once you are ready.
If you do want to use a tripod, then
my recommendation is to use a small,
lightweight tripod. The mechanism that
attaches the camera to the tripod is the
‘head’. Some tripods come complete with a
head, but the more expensive models come
without heads, allowing the photographer
Lenticular clouds over the Eastern Sierra Nevada, California
to choose the most appropriate for his
needs and budget. There are many different
types of tripod heads but the most common
are pan and tilt heads and ball heads. Ball
heads are highly recommended, as they are
compact, as well as being quick and easy to
use, especially when it is cold. When buying
a tripod and a ball head, it is important to
check that they can support the weight of
your heaviest camera with your heaviest
lens.
Another challenge with dawn and
dusk photography is balancing the bright
sunlight with the shadows. Slide film has
narrow latitude. This essentially means
that if you set the exposure for the area
in shadow, then the sky and snow will be
washed out on film. If the exposure is set
to the highlights, then the shadows will be
completely black on film.
The following are some solutions:
● The simplest is to use either colour
negative (print) or black and white films as
raphy
they have much greater latitude.
● Set the exposure for the bright areas,
and then compose the picture so that the
dark foreground will become a dramatic
silhouette.
● Use neutral density filters that will
balance the light without altering the
natural colours. Using neutral density filters
means having to carry more equipment and
spending time (and film) practicing how to
use them. In the past 12 months I have had
a lot of success with neutral density filters
and the investment in time and money has
certainly paid off.
Fill flash gives the photographer the
ability to remove harsh shadows from
objects that are close to the camera. When
used well, it produces flattering images and
is very subtle. When it doesn’t work, the
flash is very obvious and appears as a bright
reflection from either the rock or snow. I
would recommend using fill flash when
taking photographs of people who are close
to the camera.
Here are a few guidelines to increase
your success:
● Remember that most built in flash units
have an effective fill flash range of two to
three metres when using 100 ASA film, so
get in close!
● If taking a picture vertically, then
orientate the camera so that the flash unit is
away from the rock, snow or ice. This will
reduce the reflection.
● If you have the ability of adjusting the
flash output power, then try settings of –1.0
and –1.5 stops, as this will produce a more
subtle effect.
A key to taking good photographs is
knowing your equipment. Use your camera
as much as possible and learn how to use the
manual and aperture priority modes. My
personal camera choice for the mountains
is to use two cameras - a compact Olympus
Stylus Epic on harder climbs when weight
and bulk are at a premium and a Nikon F80
SLR with a lightweight 24-70mm zoom
for all my other trips. The F80 has all the
features of a ‘pro SLR’ plus a controllable
flash, but it is 33 per cent lighter than
the F100. My choice of film is 35mm
slide film and I use Fuji Velvia (50 ASA)
for landscapes and Fuji Provia (100 ASA)
when mountaineering. These films have
excellent colour saturation and very fine
grain allowing the photographer to produce
large prints.
Once you’ve discovered which film you
like, stick with it. You will then become
familiar with how it responds to different
lighting situations. Film responds to light
in a very different manner than our eyes,
especially at dawn and dusk.
More information about photographic
equipment for mountaineering is available
at: www.rberryphoto.com
Water, Water Everywhere...
by Ola Dunin-Bell
The need for adequate clean drinking water for the wilderness traveler was discussed in the last issue of the Gazette. The first part also covered
heat treatment for water. This second installment of a two-part article will focus on chemical and mechanical water purification methods in the
outdoors.
impurities to sediment out prior to using a
either liquid or solid forms. Iodine has some
halogen.
advantage over chlorine as it is less sensitive
Chemical treatment of water is the most
Bacteria are very sensitive to halogens,
to pH and has minimal unpleasant taste at
commonly used method worldwide to
becoming inactivated within minutes at
recommended concentrations. It should not
render it safe to drink. Of the disinfectants,
relatively low (two parts per million) levels
however, be used by pregnant women, those
chlorine and iodine (halogens) are primarily
of chlorine or iodine. Viruses are more
with iodine allergy or people with thyroid
used due to their low cost and high
resistant, but still are effectively treated at
disease such as goiter. As well, its safety with
effectiveness when used correctly. It must be
commonly used concentrations (two to four
long-term use has not been proven.
remembered that the ability for halogens to
ppm), usually within 15 minutes. However,
Chlorine is the better choice for water
kill organisms depends on both their active
fairly high doses with prolonged contact
that will be stored for a prolonged time as
concentration in water as well as the contact
time are required to destroy protozoal cysts.
it also inhibits the growth of algae. With
time. Colder water requires longer contact
Although giardia is fairly sensitive in warm
either halogen, depending on the product,
for disinfectants to work. Cloudy water
water, higher pH (low acidity) and lower
the potency may decrease with time or
or water with much organic material in it
exposure to heat, moisture and air. Taste
temperatures indicate a need for longer
requires a higher dose of halogen as some
and appearance are not improved with
contact time. Cryptosporidium is even
of the chemical added will be absorbed or
chemical disinfection and may actually be
more resistant, so if this parasite is suspected
inactivated by the material in the water. In
more unpleasant if concentrations higher
chemical disinfection may not be practical.
this situation it is best, if possible, to allow
than four milligrams per litre are used.
Both chlorine and iodine are available in
Taste can be improved by the addition of
Bonnie Hamilton & Nicole filtering water from the Bow River
photo by Sam McVicar
flavouring, including fruit flavoured crystals
such as Tang© or Gatorade©, but it must
be remembered that the vitamin C that
these crystals contain neutralizes the action
of the halogen and therefore must not be
added until sufficient time has passed for
sterilization to have occurred. Finally, the
liquid preparations of halogens are corrosive
and stain if they leak from their container.
Chlorine is available as common
household bleach in a five per cent
solution. Adding .1 ml (approximately
two drops) to a litre of water will result
in a four to five ppm solution, the usual
desired concentration for clear appearing
water. This should be doubled for cloudy
water or if the aim includes treatment for
giardia. Several commercial products are
on the market in tablet form including
Aquaclear©, AquaCure©, AquaPure© and
Chlor-floc©, which includes a flocculating
agent (see Mechanical methods) to help
precipitate out impurities. These products
are generally formulated to add one tab for
every litre (eight ppm) or two litres (four
ppm) of water.
Iodine can be used as a two per cent
solution (tinture), requiring .2 ml added to
a litre of water for a four ppm concentration.
Another method for using iodine is by
making a saturated solution of crystals
either in water or alcohol (solvent). As the
liquid is gently poured off the top and more
solvent added, more crystals dissolve. The
concentration is reliable only if crystals
Chemical treatment
14
remain at the bottom of the container.
Thirteen millilitres of the water solution or
.1 ml of the alcohol solution should provide
a four ppm concentration in a litre of water.
Finally, tablet formulations such as Potable
Aqua© and globaline are designed to
provide a standardized concentration when
directions are followed.
Mechanical methods
Mechanical cleansing of water may
involve sedimentation, with or without
flocculation (chemically aided clumping of
impurities), and/or filtration. Sedimentation
works best for larger suspended particles
that are clouding the water, such as
silt. About an hour of leaving the water
undisturbed is usually enough for material
to settle to the bottom and allow for clearer
water to be decanted (gently poured off
the top). Although some pathogens,
particularly cysts, may settle with solids,
this is not enough for purification and
some other form of treatment is required.
Smaller particles and chemical complexes
too small to see can be cleared by a method
known since 2000 BC, called coagulationflocculation. Lime or alum, about a pinch
per litre, can be added then rapidly stirred
in for one minute to produce complete
mixing. The dissolved or suspended material
sticks to these substances (coagulation), and
as gentle mixing continues for another five
minutes these clump further (flocculation)
producing a larger solid which can then
sediment out or be removed by pouring
through a cloth or paper filter. Further
disinfection is still required, but this will
significantly improve both appearance and
taste of the water.
Filtration offers many advantages,
including simplicity and the fact that it
adds no unpleasant taste to the water being
purified, but filters do add weight to a pack.
They work by trapping pathogens on a
membrane or in a maze of fibres. Particulate
matter dissolved in even clear looking
streams will eventually clog filters, sooner
if the water is cloudy. This is somewhat
improved with the addition of a prefilter
or sieve, and most ceramic filters can be
scrubbed, although this will eventually
break down the filter itself. The offending
organisms are not killed by passing through
the filter so any crack that allows even a tiny
amount of water to run directly through
will contaminate the outflow. Filters
run a wide range, from simple fine pore
membranes to reverse osmosis filters used
not only to purify, but also desalinate water.
1
For the wilderness traveler it is important to
know the advantages and disadvantages of
various features to decide which, if any, suit
their purpose.
What comes out the other end of a filter
is determined by the pore size. Filters with
a pore size of two microns or less are very
effective at removing both bacteria and spores
or cysts, but viruses, being much tinier, can
generally pass through this size. This is more
of a concern in densely populated areas and
third world countries, but can be solved by
adding halogen to the water either before or
after filtration. Filters that contain an iodine
resin will also complete the purification
Gerba, C.P., Naranjo, J. E., Microbiological water purification without the use of chemical disinfection,
Wilderness and Environmental Medicine: Vol.11, 1:12-16
process. These can be very effective, but
are very slow in order to allow contact
time, plus they add weight and cost and
have the same problems with cold and
high pH as any halogen treatment.
There is evidence that a newer
technology called Structured Matrix1,
meets Environmental Protection Agency
(EPA) standards for water purification
without the addition of chemical
disinfection.
Granulated Activate Carbon (GAC) is
another component often seen in filters.
Alone it will remove many, but not all
Continued on page 17
15
Emotions Run High
on Mt. Athabasca
by Margaret Imai-Compton
Peter
Amann
extended
a
congratulatory handshake
on our group’s arrival at the summit of
Mount Athabasca. Returning my guide’s
handshake, my composure crumbled. I
bowed my head and silently pressed his
hand to my forehead in gratitude. As he
squeezed my hand to acknowledge my
gesture, the tears slipped out from under
my sunglasses and Peter discreetly asked,
“Are you crying Margaret?”
I struggled with tangled and
contradictory emotions as I took the final
lunge and stepped on the sweeping cornice
of Athabasca’s highest point. I felt vibrant
and energized, but also deeply moved and
serene as mountain peaks stretched out in
infinite waves looking west. I was elated to
have achieved the summit on a gorgeously
clear morning, but somewhat regretful as
this was my 21st wedding anniversary date
and my husband wasn’t with me to share this
experience. I was proud that my climbing
abilities had gotten me to the top, but I was
humbled and silenced in the presence of
these rocky spires. Sharing this emotional
moment on Mount Athabasca with our
guide Peter Amann, camp manager Geoff
Ruttan and the three other participants on
the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) Jasper
Classic Peaks camp, was the highlight of our
week together.
Back in February, I was drawn to the
camp’s description as “a great choice for the
aspiring mountaineer”. Living in Ontario,
there is virtually no opportunity to practice
mountaineering skills so as an “aspiring”
mountaineer, I signed up based on the
description that read “classic rock climbs,
snow and ice, and mixed alpine routes at all
levels of difficulty.”
The group’s introductions took place
around the dining table at the Maligne
Canyon Hostel on the outskirts of Jasper.
We were a small but enthusiastic group.
Kevin Viehoff from Surrey, England was
an accomplished rock climber and General
Mountaineering Camp (GMC) alumnus.
Stephanie Buller from Boulder, Colorado
was anticipating a variety of rock climbs
and snow routes. Mike Wolowyk from
Edmonton, Alberta was looking to put
into practice the rock, snow and ice skills
he had learned from ACC Edmonton
16
section outings. And
I had flown in from
Toronto looking for
anything that was
higher than 122
metres above sea
level – that being the
elevation of my home
city.
Peter
and
Geoff
balanced
our
individual
expectations and skill levels by designing
a variety of activities that would enable
each of us to become better mountaineers.
The first two days featured instruction
and practice on multi-pitch rock climbing
in Hidden Valley and on Mt. Morro. As
Kevin remarked on the summit of Mt.
Morro, “That was the most brilliant rock
climbing I’ve ever done.” As for Mike and
me, we were multi-pitch climbing virgins;
a metaphor which inevitably generated the
question, “Was it good for you too?”
In anticipation of climbing Mt.
Athabasca later in the week, we also
practiced some scrambling and snow
techniques in the vicinity of Mt. Edith
Cavell, taking time out to celebrate Geoff ’s
25th birthday on a windy ridge.
The fifth day dawned at 4:30 am as we
hiked the moraines on the lower reaches of
Mt. Athabasca. I was feeling queasy and
light-headed, as we had had little to eat
on the drive down from Jasper. I silently
questioned my confidence and ability as I
examined crusty imprints in the snow that
looked as if they had been made by someone
with an extraordinarily long stride and giant
shoe size. This did not bode well for my size
six mountaineering boots. Nevertheless,
Stephanie and I tied into Peter’s rope on
the toe of the glacier and began the long
climb through the gullies of the Athabasca /
Andromeda col.
Thankfully, Peter’s pace and steps were
beautifully gauged as we approached the
ridge of Silverhorn five hours later, but
I was anxious that I was running out of
steam. “I can do it, I can do it,” became my
determined mantra with every step above
3050 m. and Peter finally announced that
we had but 15 more minutes to the final
summit.
Margaret Imai-Compton on Mt. Athabasca
I used to marvel at how people got to the
top of Athabasca, one of the fabled ‘Jewels
of the Rockies’. I remember hiking at
Wilcox Pass with my husband and daughter
last summer, and looking across the valley
at five tiny dots as they descended the north
glacier route from Athabasca’s summit. And
here it was, July 10, 2003 at 10 a.m., and
our entire group was on top!
The remaining two days continued
the camp’s theme of “something for
everyone”, as we did some ice climbing
on Athabasca’s lower glacier, followed by
fierce bushwhacking and scrambling on Mt.
Utopia on our final day.
Despite the stunning variety of
mountaineering activities available to us
over the week, I have to say our greatest
achievement as a group was sharing a cabin
at the Maligne Canyon Hostel without
evidence of any sleep disruption throughout
the week. It appears that we are all incredibly
hushed sleepers – not one offending snore
was noted throughout the week!
Many thanks to Peter Amann for his
professional and outstanding leadership;
to Geoff Ruttan for his willing attitude and
enthusiasm; to the other participants who,
each in their own way, added to the spirit of
good will and friendship in the team.
Thanks Peak Baggers
A big thank you to all those who
helped place and replace summit registers
and canisters on our prominent peaks this
summer. A special thanks to our volunteer
coordinated, Jim Bruce, who manages the
Summit Register Program.
If you’re interested in helping please
contact Jim at [email protected] or
phone (403) 932-8833.
Water, Water Everywhere...
General Mountaineering Camp
continued from page 15
– looking forward to 2004
bacteria, cysts and viral particles and so
is insufficient for complete purification.
Its value is in its ability to remove
dissolved chemicals (important in areas
where pesticides may be used), including
radioactive contamination, thus improving
odour and taste. It will eliminate the
unpleasant flavour left by halogens, but
should be used only after the necessary
time for purification by the halogen, as
it also deactivates the chemical. Silver
coating of the filter, another feature in some
products, probably does not add much in
effectiveness.
Other factors that come into play when
making the filter choice include size, weight,
mechanics of filtration such as pump,
squeeze bottle or gravity, speed of filtration
and of course cost. This information, along
with the EPA rating, should be available for
you to review before purchasing.
There are a number of other less
commonly used methods for improving
the quality of water, including UV light
and filtering through columns of fine sand,
but these are too numerous to cover in any
detail and less relevant to the wilderness
hiker or climber.
If we come prepared, we do not find
ourselves in the same predicament as the
ancient mariner. It is up to the individual to
decide how well they know the purity of the
water source and if a day in the wilderness
without treated water is worth the risk of
weeks of diarrhea or worse. In either case,
drink water.
My lips were wet, my throat was cold,
My garments all were dank;
Sure I had drunken in my dreams,
And still my body drank.
— S.T. Coleridge, The Rime of the
Ancient Mariner
Ola Dunin-Bell is a Physician and
member of the Wilderness Medical Society.
photo by Peter Amann
by Masten Brolsma
Expect
to see some new faces
at the 2004 General
Mountaineering Camp (GMC) to be held
over five weeks from July 10 to August 14
at Icefall Brook. Most obvious will be the
absence of Brad Harrison, camp manager
for past GMCs. After years of being in camp
for up to seven consecutive weeks, Brad has
reduced his role to that of camp outfitter.
His visible contribution to the GMC will
continue to be in the set up/take down of
all the camp tents and infrastructure and
coordination in food services, in addition to
being a member of the GMC Committee.
What will be missing is Brad’s smile and
energy at the dinner table and the curt, but
polite “get up!” for those 4 a.m. wakeups
during the camp. New camp managers in
the ‘handy and handsome’ mold will be
found to keep the stoves running and the
tent zippers functional. Brad will continue
to supply additional information related to
the current and historical GMCs through
his website www.colwest.ca
A combination of Association of
Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG)
and trained ACC amateur leaders will
continue to provide leadership and safety
on all climbs. The cooking of your favourite
dinners will continue seamlessly as in past
years with the same cooks and helpers being
employed.
The Mount Sir Alexander/Mt. Ida area
of Kakwa Provincial Park, west of Mt.
Robson is still a potential GMC site for
the future. The Committee has researched
the area and it looks very promising.
Unfortunately with the recent forest fires,
a helicopter was not available for a site
reconnaissance to confirm a suitable camp
location. Efforts will again be made in the
fall of 2003 to get into the area and check
it out. For those of you keeping track, the
GMC has been held in a new location six
of the last eight years. A return to an area
such as Icefall Brook with six peaks over
the magical 11,000 feet should not be
considered a consolation prize! Details on
the GMC’s return to this stunning area can
be found in 2004 Mountain Adventures
brochure or on the ACC website at
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/activities
or at www.colwest.ca
Should you have any additional
questions related to changes at the GMC or
next year’s location, please contact us at the
following:
Masten
Brolsma,
Chair
GMC
Committee, at (403) 283-7637 or Brad
Harrison, GMC Camp Outfitter, at
[email protected]
17
Global Weather Trends
Everest Meltdown
Mont Blanc ‘closed’ by record heat
UIAA team finds startling evidence
of the impacts of climate change in the
Himalayas.
An expedition of six UIAA volunteers
was dispatched to the Himalayas by the
United Nations Environment Programme
for World Environment Day, last June.
The team learnt that the glacier, from
where Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing
Norgay set out to conquer Everest nearly
50 years ago, is now unrecognizable, as
ice has retreated up the mountain. Other
evidence of climate change included huge
scars gouged in the landscape by glacial
lake floods. However, perhaps the biggest
indicator of climate change was the glacial
lake at the foot of Island Peak (6189m)
which the team climbed. Thirty years ago
there was a rubble strewn glacier, but as the
climate has become warmer the glacier has
melted and been replaced by a lake over
100m deep, 500m wide and 2km long.
What is very worrying is that the wall of
rubble that contains this lake could fail and
cause a life threatening flood to the villages
downstream. This lake is just one of 20
glacial lakes in Nepal identified by experts
as being in danger of bursting its banks.
UIAA President Ian McNaught-Davis said:
“It is clear that global warming is emerging
as the biggest threat to mountain areas.
The evidence of climate change was all
around us, from huge scars gouged in the
The record high temperatures in the
Alps have resulted in a receding snowline
which has made many slopes unstable
and created a high stonefall hazard. The
exceptional conditions resulted in the
Mayor of Chamonix issuing a warning in
August against climbing Mont Blanc via the
popular Gouter route. Also, the guardian
of the Gouter hut issued a warning against
climbing up to the hut and the mountain
guides in Chamonix stopped taking booking
for climbs of Mont Blanc by any route.
The recent change to the Gouter route
follows similar changes to the two other
‘normal routes’ from Chamonix: the Grand
Mullet route is now much more threatened
by collapsing ice cliffs and the Traverse
route has more difficult crevasses on Mont
Blanc du Tacul, is also threatened by
collapsing ice cliffs, and has a more difficult
ice slope on the shoulder of Mont Maudit.
landscapes by sudden, glacial floods to the
lakes swollen by melting glaciers. But it is
the observations of some of the people we
met, many of whom have lived in the area
all their lives, that really hit home. In the
extreme environment of high mountains
the evidence of climate change is clear to
see. But the solution to global warming is
not to be found in the mountains; so we
must all think how we can act to protect
According to figures from the highly
respected Swiss glaciologist Bruno Messerli
published by UNESCO, in the 130 years
up to 1980 alpine glaciers lost 50 percent
of their pre 1850 volume; then in the 20
years between 1980 and 2000 a further
25 percent of the pre 1850 volume was
lost. Glaciologists predict that this year’s
reduction of the permafrost layer will make
the pylons for ski lifts and cable cars unstable.
They also estimate that to replace the loss
of glacier ice and snow from this year will
require 30 to 40 meters of snowfall – which
is the equivalent of several harsh winters.
All the above coincides with the clear message
about the impacts of global warming given
last year during the International Year of
Mountains. A focus for this message was the
collaboration between the United Nations
Environment Programme (UNEP) and
the UIAA to highlight the impact of global
warming in the Himalayas and the threat of
glacial lake outburst floods.
the mountains and the flow of clean
water essential to our everyday lives.”
It was in conversation with Tashi Janghu
Sherpa, president of the Nepal Mountain
Association, that the team first learnt of
rising concern among local people over the
impacts of global warming.
Reprinted with permission from the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) website www.uiaa.ch
On behalf of
The Alpine Club of Canada and
The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides,
we cordially invite you to join us for our annual fundraiser,
14th Annual Mountain Guides’ Ball
Saturday, November 1st, 2003, Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise
This year we are celebrating the 40th anniversary of the founding of the
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides.
Hans Gmoser together with these founding members will be
the patron of this years Guides’ Ball.
For details and ticket information visit our website:
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/support/guidesball.html
or call the National Office (403) 678-3200 ext. 108.
18
THURSDAY, AUGUSUT 21, 2003
Canadians climbing in high style
L
YNN MARTEL – SPECIAL TO THE OUTLOOK
..........................................................................
One of the first things the reader notices
about the 2003 Canadian Alpine Journal is its
size – or rather its weight. At 172 pages, it’s
rather beefy. It’s gritty too. Not just Andrew
Querner’s black and white cover photo, but
the content too, proving Canadians aren’t
adverse to exploring remote terrain and
pushing themselves to new limits in strange
and familiar places.
Stories such as Barry Blanchard’s The King
and I, detailing a new route on Mount Robson
and A Parting Gift show that Canadians are
in possession of an overdeveloped sense of
adventure as well as a sense of humour as
sharp as their ice axes.
Other reports show Canadians going
harder and faster, with Will Gadd completing
the first one-day ascent of the Rockies highest,
3954-metre Robson, and farther, as Lena
Rowat writes in her account of a 55-day,
675 km ski traverse of the St. Elias Range
— showing that Canadian girls can go as long
and hard as its men. Other tales show that true
Canadian style and ethics are in good form,
as in Jeremy Frimer’s account of putting up
a new route up Mount Logan’s 2500-metre
northeast face, continuing all the way to the
true summit.
Absent from the front pages in this edition
is editor Geoff Powter’s Letter from the Editor,
but instead, from page one, the 2003 issue
allows the climbing speak for itself. Opening
with a bang in the form of Guy Edwards’
Underemployed Climbing Fanatics, describing
his and John Millar’s bold and committing
expedition in the Garwhal Himalaya, the
CAJ immediately follows with tributes to
the extraordinary pair who were lost on
Reprinted with permission from
the Rocky Mountain Outlook
Alaska’s Devil’s Thumb in May, written by
close friends and climbing partners Frimer
and Vance Culbert. Not pulling any punches,
Lisa Baile, Mark Grist, Liz Scremin and
John Baldwin’s poignant tributes to devoted
conservationist John Clarke earn prominent
feature placements as well. On the lighter side,
Canmore’s Nancy Hansen writes of climbing
a different Yamnuska route every month of
the year and unforgettable senior citizen Fred
Beckey lets everyone know he’s still out there
putting up new routes on obscure peaks.
From section trips to first ascents to
international expeditions, the CAJ shows
Canadians climbing in high style.
The 2003 Canadian Alpine Journal, editor
Geoff Powter, 172 pages, published by the
Alpine Club of Canada.
The deadline for CAJ article submission
for the next issue is January 15, 2004.
Congratulations
– to the winners of the CAJ “Tell A Friend” promotion!!!
ACC members told their friends about the Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ);
their friends subscribed to the CAJ and they all won great prizes.
Roger Perry and Dan Irwin
won 2 Marmot Eiger 39L. packs
AND
Harry Allard and Stan Metcalfe
won 2 Arc’teryx Khamsin 38L. packs
Thanks to Marmot and Arc’teryx for supplying these great prizes.
19
ACC Renames Hut in Honour of William Lowell (Bill) Putnam
by Mike Mortimer
The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC)
approved that the Fairy Meadow hut be
renamed The Bill Putnam (Fairy Meadow)
Hut in recognition of Bill’s contribution
to both the ACC and Canadian
mountaineering.
In 1942 Bill, along with members of
the Harvard Mountaineering Club, made
his first visit to the Selkirks mountains,
traveling by train to the old Glacier station
at Rogers Pass. The outcome of this trip was
for Bill, the beginning of an affection for
the Canadian mountains that would last
a lifetime. This passion for the mountains
(he would make more than 62 first ascents),
made him in 1957 the natural choice to
become the editor of the American Alpine
Club’s Canadian guidebooks.
In addition to editing guidebooks for
the AAC, Bill also authoured 13 books on
historical and scientific topics.
He was elected to the AAC’s Board of
Directors in 1969 and served in various
capacities for 30 years, including president
from 1974 to 1976. Bill represented the
both the ACC and the AAC on the Council
of the UIAA from 1974 until he was
elected vice president of the International
Mountaineering and Climbing Federation
(UIAA) in which capacity he served from
1993 until 1996.
In 1965, Bill was responsible for the
construction of the first hut at Fairy
Meadows, a Panabode cabin and in 1973
was instrumental in the building of the
current structure.
In 2002, the Alpine Club of Canada,
proposed that William L. Putnam be
elected an honorary member of the UIAA.
Bill’s election added to the many other
honours bestowed on him by the world
climbing community. These include
honorary memberships in the Appalachian
Mountain Club (1976), The Alpine Club
of Canada (1989), the Association of
Canadian Mountain Guides (1990) and
The American Alpine Club (1993).
Mike Mortimer is the ACC Director of
External Relations
photo by Nancy Hansen
Subscribe to
Back Country
®
magazine
or visit www.backcountrymagazine.com
Adventure ski & board features
Equipment reviews
Technique tips, tour guides
20
In Canada
1 year – 4 issues: $19.50 U.S.
2 years+ – 9 issues: $39 U.S.
www.backcountrymagazine.com
1-888-424-5857
New Bugaboos Guidebook Rocks!
by Lynn Martel
In
British
Columbia’s
Bugaboo
Provincial Park, a collection of
towering granite spires known as The
Bugaboos jut dramatically skyward from
the glaciers at their base. Not only are the
Bugaboos among the most unique and
striking mountain formations in all of
western Canada, they offer some of the very
best alpine rock climbing opportunities
in all of North America, from half-day
scrambles to multi day big wall ascents.
First explored by legendary Austrian
guide Conrad Kain in 1910, climbers
from around the world hike up the steep
4.6 kilometre trail to Conrad Kain Hut
every summer, straining under enormous
backpacks filled with food and climbing
equipment, eager to immerse themselves
in the Bugaboos experience. And until this
summer, those climbers relied on a longoutdated guidebook and scraps of route
information scribbled in pencil on pages
torn from notebooks before venturing onto
the glaciers and summits as high as the
remote 3412-metre North Howser Tower.
With 267 climbing routes in the area,
Elaho Publishing’s Kevin McLane realized a
need for an updated guidebook written by
Canadians as an alternative to the recently
updated version of a 1989 guidebook
written by American climbers who were
occasional visitors to the area. McLane
enlisted Squamish, B.C.’s Chris Atkinson,
a fully certified guide with the Association
of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG)
who was stationed as a B.C. Provincial
Park Ranger at the Bugaboos’ Conrad
Kain Hut in the late 1980s, and Canmore’s
Marc Piché, also a full ACMG guide now
working year round at Canadian Mountain
Holidays’ (CMH) Bugaboo Lodge, where
he first worked and climbed a decade ago.
Any guidebook is a labour of love; the
result of time and effort spent recording
distances and specific details about a
particular destination, for the main purpose
of sharing that special place with others.
A guidebook can be a black and white
snapshot of a place, covering the basics but
little more, or it can be a comprehensive,
three dimensional encyclopaedia of that
environment, offering insights beyond
simple geography on how the place came
to be and what it means to others who have
spent time there.
The Bugaboos – One of the World’s Great
Alpine Rockclimbing Centres, falls into the
latter category. Weighing in at 360 pages,
this volume is jammed with everything a
visitor to the magical alpine playground
needs, whether the objective is a fun, short
scramble up Eastpost Spire, or a technically
demanding full day outing on the three star
classic, 20-plus pitch Beckey-Chouinard
route on the South Howser Tower.
This past August at the Kain Hut,
American, Polish, Japanese and Canadian
climbers anxiously waited their turn to study
an open-faced hut copy of The Bugaboos,
bypassing other less comprehensive
publications.
The Bugaboos is well organized and
thorough, from driving distances and
directions from several Canadian and
U.S airports right to the trailhead parking
lot to meticulously detailed diagrams
accompanying the more technical climbing
routes and grid references to legal camping
and bivy sites. More than 200 sharp black
and white photographs exhibit mountain
groupings and ridge and face close-ups
with clearly marked routes overlaid,
and approach and descent directions are
included for each individual peak. Chapters
on natural, human and climbing history,
weather, terrain and stormy day alternatives
all appear in reader friendly paragraphs.
But it’s the little things, such as
numerous one-paragraph anecdotes about
climbers being struck by lightning and
having their polypro glued to their skin,
about how Conrad Kain and party made
their 1916 first ascent of Bugaboo Spire
in a remarkable 17½ hours – including
bushwhacking from the valley bottom
– and a charming photo of then 80-year-old
Sid Feuz and fellow mountain guide Rudi
Gertsch on the stellar West Ridge of Pigeon
Spire that bring this guidebook to life.
As well, the climbs are rated with one
to three stars, so everyone heading up the
trail will know where to start. The only
thing missing from this book is the warning
that once you climb in the Bugaboos, you’ll
want to go back.
The Bugaboos – One of the World’s
Great Alpine Rockclimbing Centres, by
Chris Atkinson and Marc Piché, 360 pages,
published by Elaho Publishing Corporation,
Squamish. B.C.
Available on the ACC's website at:
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/store
21
National Office News
by Audrey Wheeler, Director, Club Programs
After
a weather-weird winter
we experienced a weather
-weird summer. Extremely dry and hot
weather instigated many forest fires in
Alberta and B.C. where a fierce blaze in
Kootenay National Park took the historic
Fay Hut from us.
New beginnings blessed our Office
Manager/Memberships Coordinator, as
Josée Larochelle and her husband Kelly
MacLeod welcomed their new baby girl,
Emilie Fay, into the world on August 5.
Some of you may already be acquainted
with Paula Zettel, who is filling in while
Josée is away on a maternity leave. Paula
is getting into the swing of our busy office
and has become a wonderful addition to
the staff.
We sadly said good-bye to Luther
McLain, the Club’s Facilities Administrative
Manager after almost eight years, at
the ACC, Luther has chosen to return
to academia and his affable disposition
will be dearly missed. Lawrence White
has moved to a new challenge as the
Facilities Administrative Manager and
Jon Rollins has joined us as the new
Mountain Adventures Coordinator. He
is an enthusiastic rock climber and cave
guide. Welcome Jon! We have also had to
say good-bye to a few summer-time front
desk staff at the Canmore Clubhouse but
have now welcomed Brena Abrey to the
desk. We will be sending our best to Ann
Vanier, Front Desk Supervisor, as she will
start a maternity leave in October.
There are a few friendly new faces
committed to meeting ACC members’
needs at the National Office. A big thanks
to all our dedicated staff, who have met
operational changes and challenges this
summer with fortitude.
With a chill in the air, it’s just around
the corner. Have a safe winter season!
Volunteers Required for ACC Centennial Events
During
2005/06 the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) will celebrate its
centennial. In recognition of this august occasion, the club is
scheduling a series of activities at both the national and section levels.
The ACC has always relied on volunteers to run Club events and as we approach our
centenary, we find that this need is as great as ever.
Volunteers are required to help us develop or run the projects listed below. While some
of the positions require people to reside in the Calgary-Banff area, other positions can be
run from outside of the immediate area. Some positions are skills specific, while other tasks
just require a desire to be involved in what will be a significant milestone in the life of the
Club.
ACC Centennial Events
Volunteer Coordinator
●
A person to solicit volunteers for the
various and growing projects that will be
undertaken by the Club leading up to the
centennial. The main role will be to match
the volunteers’ skills with the tasks to be
undertaken.
Public Relations
Person(s) to create and promote our
activities to the media during the period
leading up to and during our Centennial
celebrations.
Fundraising
UIAA (International Mountaineering
Federation) General Assembly
People will be required to assist in
helping run the Assembly, which the
ACC will host in 2006 in the Banff area.
Specifically, we are looking for individuals
to:
● Plan and organize pre and post events in
the Rockies
● Assist with the actual running of the
Assembly
Webmaster
Person to develop a page on the ACC
website that will allow us to communicate
with both our members and the public,
about our Centennial.
(as of May 2003)
Activities
●
●
●
General Mountaineering Camp
Summer 2005 - 100th year of
teaching mountain craft in Canada
Stanley Mitchell Camp July 10,
2006 - 100th anniversary of the first
“Official Climb” and camp
Yukon Camp Summer 2006
- climbing in Canada’s Greater
Ranges
Mountain Culture - 100th Edition
Canadian Alpine Journal Spring
2006
Meetings and Events
●
●
●
Executive Meeting March 27, 2006
- to celebrate the 100th anniversary
of the formation of the club in
Winnipeg
Mountain Guides’ Ball October 28,
2006 - hosting of Centennial dinner
in Banff
UIAA General Assembly October 27
to November 2, 2006 - hosting of the
International World Mountaineering
annual meeting in Banff.
People who are prepared to work with
the Centennial Committee to engage help
in raising funds for the Club’s various
initiatives.
For further information, please contact: Mike Mortimer, Chair, ACC Centennial Committee at: [email protected]
Volunteering = Free Ticket
If you can volunteer a few hours of your time you get to be a part of all the action and get a complimentary ticket to
see awesome films. We need help with ushering, operating the food concession and with the book sales table. If you are
interested please e-mail Paula Zettel, [email protected] or phone her at (403) 678-3200 ext. 108.
Banff Mountain Film and Book Festivals November 4 - 9, 2003.
22
CLASSIFIED ADS
Mountain Art
Limited Edition Prints
by Glen Boles
E-mail: [email protected]
Visit: www.glenboles.com
(403) 932-3702
Reminder: Kokanee Glacier Cabin
October 1 is the deadline for section
submissions to the Kokanee Glacier
Cabin’s winter lottery for 2004.
October 15 is the deadline for all
other submissions. Visit our website
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/facility
for details and entry forms or
contact
Lawrence
White
at
[email protected]
AWARDS
AWARDS
AWARDS
It’s
that time of year again. You’ve been out there. You’ve seen your fellow
members in action. Who’s been outstanding? Nominate them for
an ACC Award. Choose the appropriate award, ACC Service Award, ACC
Leader Award, Distinguished Service Award, Silver Rope for Leadership Award.
Details and nomination forms can be obtained on the National website at
www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/awards or call the National Office at (403) 678-3200
ext. 108 for details. Deadline for nominations is December 31, so act now.
AWARDS
AWARDS
AWARDS
ACC Board of Directors Meeting
Next meeting will take place
November 1 and 2, 2003 at the
Canadian Alpine Centre at Lake Louise.
Volunteers Needed
The Energy, Water and Waste
Management (EWWM) Committee is
seeking additional volunteer members.
Interested participants should have
skills in the areas of alternative energy
sources or water management pertaining
to the ACC huts system. Commitments
include occasional meetings in Calgary
or Canmore and correspondence
through email. EWWM is a subcommittee of the Huts Committee.
For more information please contact
Karen Rollins, EWWM Chair, at (403)
678-3522 or [email protected]
ACC Custom Portering Services
now available for all huts summer
and winter. If you are planning a
backcountry hut trip and would like to
have your food and equipment carried
in, contact the Facilities Administration
Manager, Lawrence White, for details
at (403) 678-3200 ext. 104 or e-mail
[email protected]
W Classified Ads Rates:
NE$20.00
plus $1.00 per word +GST
E-mail your ad to:
[email protected]
or mail to the address on page 3.
23
ACC GRANTS
Have a Project? The Alpine Club
of Canada Financial Grants may be
able to help. Through the generosity
of many donors, the ACC has several
funds in place to support a variety of
mountaineering-related projects and
initiatives.
The Environment Fund provides
support for wilderness conservation
projects aimed at contributing to
the protection and preservation of
mountain and climbing environments.
The Jen Higgins Fund promotes
creative and energetic alpine-related
outdoor pursuits with an emphasis
on self-propelled wilderness travel by
young women age 25 and younger.
The Helly Hansen Mountain Adventure
Award was established to celebrate the
human passion for alpine areas and
supports worthwhile mountaineering
and alpine-related projects undertaken
by Canadians.
For complete information and
application forms, visit our website:
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/funds or
we can mail you a copy of the same
information and forms by calling the
National Office at (403) 678-3200 ext.
108.
Annual deadline for applications is
January 31.

The Colourful Lives of the Fay Hut

Transcription

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