MarkNet - KLR650 - Idler Shaft Lever - (Doohickey)

Transcription

MarkNet - KLR650 - Idler Shaft Lever - (Doohickey) - and Spring
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION OF THE IDLER SHAFT LEVER (DOOHICKEY) - AND SPRING
I followed the procedure written by the pioneer of doohickey
replacement, Devon Jarvis. I don't claim to add anything new or
improved to Devon's excellent work. The only reason for this procedure
is to add some additional pictures and text which - hopefully - will help
people to successfully take on this removal and replacement process.
A1 Brochure
Replacement Idler Shaft levers, springs, associated parts and tools are
available at:
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file:///D/Work/KLR650/doohickey.html[6/30/2015 11:49:59 AM]
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MY bike was OK. This is what I found on the second bike that I did for a
friend...
Wheel
Alignment
Be sure the engine is clean, and free of mud or other junk that might fall into
the opened case. Good lighting, and a clean environment are also good
things. :)
Note that the lever and spring that I installed was one of the first and
developed by the now deceased Jake of Sagebrush Machine Shop. I
understand that they're now made by Eagle and sold by Fred of
Arrowhead Motorsports.
Above is a comparison of the original stock (doohickey) idler shaft lever,
and the aftermarket one. Clearly, the replacement is MUCH beefier, with no weld - and so elegantly machined that I felt as though I should
hang it over the mantle, not put it into the oily engine. :)
I chose to drain the oil, and do this procedure with the bike upright on
my Easy-Lift in case any small parts fell off or out, they would just fall
down, and not into the engine. As it turns out, I didn't really see
anywhere the washers, locating "dowels" or woodruff key could fall into
that wouldn't be easily accessed unless you're not going to remove the
inner case cover for spring replacement. Then it might be a minor hassle
to drop something.
So, lean the bike over onto a bucket or a couple tires and don't drain the
oil, or do as I have and drain the oil if the bike is due for a change
anyway.
As shown above, remove the bash plate, if you have one installed. I
don't remember or know if the stock plastic one would interfere with
bolt and cover removal or not...
The picture above shows the 3 bolts to remove sprocket cover, marked
here with RED dots.
NOTE: I had a 16t sprocket, which lives very close to the wiring. I was
afraid of an unfortunate wiring snag on the sprocket while pulling the
cover away to break the magnetic attraction, and removing the sprocket
eliminates the possibility of that snag. I also planned on removing the
swingarm and chain for maintenance, and removing the sprocket makes
all of that easier. It's not necessary to remove the sprocket to do this
procedure. If you do remove it; righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
Shown above is the removal of the front sprocket. You'll need to loosen
the adjusting nuts on both swingarm ends, and the axle nut. Push the
wheel forward as much as possible, and roll the chain off the rear
sprocket. This is another reason I chose to use the Easy-Lift.
To avoid re-adjusting your chain, it may be possible to loosen the axle
nut, and remove the axle. Slide the wheel forward until you can take the
chain off the rear sprocket. Then, remove the wheel.
A 27mm socket removes the stock nut or a 30mm if you have an
aftermarket replacement. Remove the sprocket, and the chain should
position itself around the countershaft.
For reinstallation of the nut, the torque values are: 98 N-m (or) 10 Kgm (or) 72 Ft-lb.
(Footrest removed for the photo.)
It took me a couple tries to find the perfect shifter postition when I
replaced the stock one with this IMS shifter from Arrowhead. To avoid
the hassle, I'd suggest you engrave or scribe a mark on the shifter /
shaft end, as shown above, so you can easily put the shifter back on
exactly as it was.
You'll see some of the pictures show everything all gunked up, as in the
one above, and others where the case is clean. I took a couple minutes
with a rag dipped in gas to wipe off the results of overspraying the
chain. More is better, right?! (Grin)
As shown in the picture above, remove the wires from the barriers in
which they live, and unplug the single green neutral wire. You'll
probably also want to take the wires out of the soft metal holder at the
top of the engine to give them more freedom to move.
OK, here we go. The wires have been freed or unplugged, and the next
step is to remove the outer cover. Picture above. The RED dots show
the location of the bolts to be removed. There are 10 of them, and they
are all the same size, so you don't have to worry about keeping them in
order. (The BLUE dots are the inner cover bolts, to be removed if you're
going to also change the spring. This is mentioned in more detail later
on.)
In an effort to preserve the gasket - which did come off in great shape I unthreaded all the bolts almost all the way out. I worked the cover
outward CAREFULLY until, with a a fine-bladed screwdriver, I could work
all the way around to free the gasket. It was stuck here and there,
especially where the wiring enters the cover, and I'm sure this helped
save it.
Have some wire handy, and completely remove all the bolts. The cover is
now ready to be taken off. There are tabs on the cover that can be used
to get a grip on it. Use these to pull the cover straight back toward you.
With the wiring free on the right side, the cover should come off with
minimal effort. There is a magnetic attraction going on there, but
nothing major.
The picture above shows the cover wired to a frame tube, and safely out
of the way. I left the gasket in place until I was ready to clean things
up, and put the cover back on.
My footrests were off for a better picture of the shifter scribe mark, and I
needed more Loctite to put them back on. You can rest this cover on
your footrest, but I still recommend wiring the cover to something to
prevent it from falling during the body-building events. (Removal and
installation of the rotor holding bolt.)
The above picture is mostly for reference, a visual aid to show what is
where just under the left side cover. I have no idea why it came out
blue...
The next step is to remove these two gears. Each pair, top and bottom,
has a thrust washer in front, and one behind. Make sure they all come
off, and they all go back on!
The picture above is a closeup to show the arrangement of the gears.
Each pair has one gear larger than the other. The smaller one goes out
at the top, and the smaller one goes in at the bottom.
This is probably an unnecessary thing to do, but it saves from those brief
flashes of panic when you're not sure what goes where.
The picture above shows coffee can lids. I mark them with either what is
in them, or where the parts came from. There's no question or
hesitation when it comes time to reinstall, and the Sharpie marker
washes right off with a little gas for the next use.
OK, the thing is that the rotor holding bolt goes on with 130ft-lbs, so you
will have to put some elbow grease into getting it out. You can use a
honkin' big pipe over the wrench, as shown in the last picture in this
procedure, or do something along the lines of what I did. (For the
curious, that's a barrel cap tool that I'm using.) The wrench goes over
the stop, footrest, highway pegs... whatever.
REVISION! : For the second doohickey check & installation on my friend's
bike, I used the footrest to hold the wrench in place. This worked MUCH
better, and is the method I would highly recommend.
The rotor holding bolt comes out counter-clockwise. I don't have a
breaker bar, or whatever, so I just put a pipe over a ratchet. The rotor
holding bolt is just that, unthread it all the way and put it aside. I
recommend that you do NOT reuse it. For a savings of $12, why take
the risk?!
NOTE: I started out using a standard Craftsman deep well 19mm
standard socket, and split it from stem to stern. I used a 19mm impact
socket on my ratchet to finish the removal, and then to do the
installation of the new bolt. I thought about using an impact wrench, but
am not sure that it wouldn't cause damage in some way.
The photo above shows the installation of the rotor puller, basically a big
bolt. The torque required to pull the flywheel may be a little less if the
bottom of the puller bolt has a dab of grease on it. I suspect that there
may have been a lot of interference from the rather large bolt surface.
Thread the puller into the hole that the rotor holding bolt used until you
can't turn it by hand anymore. Now, set up the wrench slots as before,
but this time, put the wrench under the stop. (See revision note below)
You'll be turning in the rotor puller clockwise. I used a 7/8" impact
socket on a ratchet. The socket was a perfect fit, which was good,
because I don't have a metric one that would fit - I think it must be a
23mm...?
REVISION! : For the second doohickey check & installation on my friend's
bike, I used the footrest to hold the wrench in place. This worked MUCH
better, and is the method I would highly recommend.
The effort to thread in the puller and remove the rotor can be minimal,
or quite a bit. I did my bike first, and it wasn't especially difficult to
remove. I did the next bike, (the one that had a broken lever, pictures
at the top of this page), and found that it just about required two men
and a mule to get it loose. Once you can feel the rotor coming loose,
just slowly turn in the puller until the rotor is freed. I think you might be
able to pull it too far with the bolt, and have it fall off onto the floor. I
wondered about that, stopped to check where things were, and was able
to easily slide the rotor the rest of the way off the shaft by hand. The
rotor was heavier than I had expected, so be aware of that to prevent
dropping it.
The force required to remove the rotor puller bolt from the threads was
kind of surprising. I assumed it would just thread out by hand, but it did
require more ratchet effort than you would probably expect.
NOTE: The rotor has a magnetic attraction and should be checked and
cleaned of any metal chips and debris that may be living there.
In the picture above, the arrow is pointing to the woodruff key. This is
something you'll be needing again later on! The starter gear is loose,
and spins easily. Just push it slightly back if necessary, remove the
woodruff key from its slot, and then slide off the thrust washer. The
starter gear will now easily come off the shaft.
The woodruff key / flywheel re-installation goes much easier if
you remember to rotate the shaft so that the keyway is facing up
AFTER the flywheel pops loose and BEFORE you actually pull the
flywheel off - use the flywheel to have it pointing north. That
way gravity won't interfere with reassembly.
My stock doohickey, shown above, was apparently still in good shape. It
had plenty of travel left, and there was no visible problems with the
weld. (See the update at the top of this page for one with less mileage
that wasn't ok.) There's only just over 8,000 miles on the bike, though,
so I'm sure the low mileage is the reason everything was still intact.
Even if I had know this ahead of time, I would still have replaced the
doohickey and spring for the peace-of-mind factor.
The photo above shows the removal of the lever adjusting bolt. Counterclockwise to remove the bolt, and then just slide the doohickey off the
shaft.
Note that in the above picture the inner cover is still in place. The
adjusting bolt and doohickey have been removed...
The next thing to do is remove this inner cover in the same way as the
outer cover, carefully to preserve the gasket. Again, unthread all the
bolts almost all the way. Use the tabs to pull the cover out toward you
until you can work a fine-bladed screwdriver all the way around to
loosen and free the gasket. Then, with the gasket not stuck to either
surface, remove all the bolts and the cover.
Be aware that there are two locating "dowels" per cover, (inner and outer),
and may stay in the engine case as mine did, or come loose with the cover.
WARNING! Once the inner cover is off, and the lever spring is removed,
it's possible for the adjuster shaft to slide out enough for the rear spacer
washer to slip off, and bounce into the crankcase, or be lost in the work
area. This is pretty much only an issue if the bike is on the sidestand. I
did the first one with the bike upright on my Easy-Lift, and subsequent
ones with the bikes leaned right over on a couple old tires, and had no
problems.
*** See below for a note on cover removal.
The cover comes off without too much effort, but like the oil filter cover,
you'll be fighting a little with an O-ring. The yellow arrow is pointing to it
in the photo above, and is the obstacle in the removal of this cover.
I made a bolt chart for the inner cover because the first two bolts I
removed were of different lengths. (I labelled them according to
approximate clock positions.) As it turns out, #12 in the chart - the bolt
at the top inside of this inner cover was the only short one, all the
others were the same length.
NOTE: It's recommended that you liberally coat the parts as you
reassemble. Be especially sure to reinstall the rotor and starter ring
gear - the flat portion of the shaft between the taper and the installed
starter gear - wet with oil, or some other assembly lubricant such as
molylube.
More is better, but make sure that the inside of the rotor and that
tapered shaft are clean and dry.
A small dab of grease in the slot where the woodruff key lives is fine, and
will help keep the key in place during assembly.
The picture above shows the spring installed, with the stock one laying
alongside. The spring has tension on it, but not much. Next time I open
up the left side, which will probably be for no reason other than to
replace the spring, I'll put in a shorter Eagle Mfg. spring from Arrowhead
Motorsports.
During the spring change I maintained some back pressure on the "tab"
that the spring connects to. This is just another one of those anal
retentive things, I guess, and probably isn't necessary.
To remove the stock spring, slide the front (left in picture) end of the
spring off the case post, and then just unhook the other end.
To install the new upgrade spring, hook the back (right in picture) end of
the spring into the hole of the tab, and then with needle nose pliers, or
whatever works best for you, slip the other (left in picture) end over the
case post.
NOTE: I'm told that it isn't necessary to remove the cover to replace the
spring; that you can just remove all the screws, wiggle the cover out a
little, and work the spring in. To be honest, I fooled around with the
spring before removing the cover, and couldn't get at the end behind
the doohickey.
The picture above shows the new doohickey and adjusting bolt installed.
The adjuster bolt was threaded in just for the picture, and should
probably not be there just yet because you may have to file the
doohickey a little so that all 4 start gear spokes clear it.
Notice the cover locating "dowel" in the bottom left of the
picture, right next to the last bolt head that you can see. There are two
per cover, (inner and outer), and may stay in the engine case as mine
did, or come loose with the cover.
Note that in the picture above the new doohickey and spring have been
installed, and the inner cover is in place.
Ignore the adjuster bolt in this picture, you don't want it installed
just yet.
I'm a big fan of the non-hardening (silicone) gasket stuff, such as
YamaBond. You can use ANY non-hardening gasket agent material, or
none at all, if that is your choice. If you do use it, I would suggest that it
be used on both sides of the gasket to be sure of a good seal. Whether
you choose to use something like this or not, the metal surfaces should
be clean, dry and free of any stuck-on gasket material. You should also
carefully wipe any junk or residue from the gasket itself.
Note on the silicone: Use a small amount of non-drying silicone all
around the gasket surface. Be sure to wipe off any excess from the
inside and outside edges of the cover. Again, you want very little here,
just enough to lightly coat the surface and create a seal.
I apply a small line of the silicone all the way around the gasket, then
place my index finger on the top of the gasket, my thumb on one side of
the gasket and my forefinger on the other side. I then just run around
and around the entire gasket / cover surface until I have complete
coverage of the gasket using the smallest possible amount of silicone.
Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, and don't fully torque each bolt
all at once. Work your way around evenly several times until you've
gotten the torque click, or reading, at each bolt.
The cover bolts are torqued to 8.1n-m / 6 ft-lbs / 72in-lbs
NOTE: It's recommended that you liberally coat the parts as you
reassemble. Be especially sure to reinstall the rotor and starter ring
gear - the flat portion of the shaft between the taper and the installed
starter gear - wet with oil, or some other assembly lubricant such as
molylube.
More is better, but make sure that the inside of the rotor and that
tapered shaft are clean and dry.
A small dab of grease in the slot where the woodruff key lives is fine, and
will help keep the key in place during assembly.
The picture above shows the starter gear again. You should not have
the doohickey adjusting bolt installed yet.
The first thing to do is slide the starter gear fully onto the shaft, and spin
it slowly by hand to be sure all spokes clear the new doohickey. On
mine, 3 of the spokes cleared easily, but the 4th was just kissing the top
outer edge of the doohickey. A few passes with a file fixed this, and I
was ready to continue the installation.
Once you're sure all 4 spokes of the starter gear are going to clear the
doohickey, you can remove it and install the adjusting bolt, tightening it
to about 8n-m / 5.75 ft-lbs / 69in-lbs.
NOTE: The woodruff key / flywheel re-installation goes much easier if
you remember to rotate the shaft so that the keyway is facing up AFTER
pulling the flywheel pops loose and BEFORE you actually pull the
flywheel off - use the flywheel to have it pointing north. That way
gravity won't interfere with reassembly.
Slide the starter gear fully back onto the shaft.
Slide the thrust washer over the shaft and up to the starter gear.
Next is the woodruff key and rotor. I had no trouble with this at all,
although that seems to not always be the case. I placed the key in its
slot, and got down so I could see directly into the slot of the rotor. As I
pushed the rotor into place I just made sure that the woodruff key was
travelling smoothly along the slot of the rotor. If you do have trouble
with the key, you might try putting a dab of grease on it to hold it in
place.
This was not a a problem for me, (and probably won't be for you?), but if
you have trouble making the one-way clutch of the rotor move onto the
bushing correctly, try rotating the starter gear as you kind of rock the
rotor into place.
Above is the same photo used earlier during the removal steps, but it's
just as relevant here.
I suggest you use a new rotor holding bolt, which you can get from Fred
at Arrowhead Motorsports, or wherever. The jury is still out on whether
you can safely reuse the bolt or not, and I know that some people have
reused them a couple times. In my humble opinion, it doesn't make
sense to buy a new doohickey and probably the tools to install it, take
the time to install it and then try to save $12 dollars by not also buying
a new bolt. Whatever you decide, installing the rotor holding bolt is
next.
Place the wrench under the stop - you're going to turn clockwise here.
NOTE:
- Tighten the magneto flywheel bolt (rotor bolt) to 120N-m / 12.0kg-m
/ 87ft-lb's. Do not overtighten it now.
- Loosen the bolt and then tighten it again to the same torque: 120N-m
/ 12.0kg-m / 87ft-lb's.
- Finally, tighten the bolt to the specified torque: 175N-m / 18.0kg-m
/ 130ft-lbs
Next is to install the starter gears. Make sure there is one thrust washer
behind each gear pair, and one in front of each pair!
Try starting the two pairs on together, and then pretty much let them do
their own thing to find their way home. For the second installation, I did
them individually and found they went on with little trouble. Rotating
the starter gear slightly will probably make the installation easier.
The outer cover is just a repeat of the inner cover. Make sure the
locating dowels are in place, (2), and that you've cleaned and prepared
the gasket and mating surfaces. Apply the silicone gasket agent, if you
choose.
And again: I'm a big fan of the non-hardening (silicone) gasket stuff,
such as YamaBond, and used it on the two cover gaskets to be sure of a
good seal. Whether you choose to use something like this or not, the
metal surfaces should be clean, dry and free of any stuck-on gasket
material. You should also carefully wipe any junk or residue from the
gasket itself.
Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, and don't fully torque each
bolt all at once. Work your way around evenly several times until you've
gotten the torque click, or reading, at each bolt.
The cover bolts are torqued to 8.1n-m / 6 ft-lbs / 72in-lbs
With the cover back in place, make sure to carefully put the wires back
behind the protective barriers, outlined in BLUE in the above picture. I
put a dab of di-electric grease in the neutral switch connector before
pushing it back over the connector stub.
With the chain already off at the front, you're a couple steps ahead of
the game concerning other maintenance such as the swingarm lube,
and chain cleaning and adjustment. No time like the present!
I had a piece of large conduit that fit perfectly over the end of the
wrench. This is another alternative to the bar through the engine
support brackets. You'll need something like this to achieve the amount
of necessary force if you don't use the footrest, highway pegs, or
whatever.

MarkNet - KLR650 - Idler Shaft Lever - (Doohickey)

Transcription

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