The Climbers Guide to Squamish
Transcription
The Climbers Guide to Squamish
1 2 Climbers Guidebooks from High Col Press Purchase online at www.highcol.ca This full-colour guide brings together into a single collection 1300 of the great rockclimbs of Western Canada, from Squamish to Lake Louise to the Ghost River Valley, world-famous crags, popular classics, alpine crags, and little known jewels in one of the most beautiful regions of the world. Over 70 climbing areas are described, with over 800 topos and photos covering sport, trad, long climbs and crags. 3 The Climbers Guide to Squamish Free Preview Edition The Climbers Guide to Squamish is the classic comprehensive guidebook from Kevin McLane to one of the world’s greatest granite rock climbing areas. Climbs described include the long climbs on the walls of the Chief, cragging in the Smoke Bluffs and Murrin Park, and many outlying areas. This free 52 page PDF Preview Edition is a sampler of what the full book contains, showing the page detailing, much of the extensive prologue, and galleries presenting how the climbs and topos are detailed. If you would like to purchase the full 552 page guidebook, please visit us at www.highcol.ca. This Preview Edition of The Climbers Guide to Squamish is distributed free of charge by High Col Press. Copyright to the book and all uncredited photos is held by the author, Kevin McLane, and other photos are copyrighted as identified. The Climbers Guide to Squamish is published by Elaho Press, an imprint of High Col Press. § This Preview Edition PDF file is set up as 2-page spreads and prints neatly onto letter-size paper. The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 4 5 2005 Elaho Press Squamish © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 6 7 The Climbers Guide To Squamish © Kevin McLane 2005 ISBN 0-9733035-4-9 Elaho Publishing Corporation, Squamish BC. Printed in Canada by Kromar Printing Ltd, Winnipeg, Manitoba. § Front: Back: Andrew Boyd on the Upper Black Dyke. (top) The Chief, from near Murrin Park. (inset left) On the Grand Wall, photo Matt Buckle. (inset right) Sheila Steinke on the Black Dyke. All uncredited photos by Kevin McLane. This guide is dedicated to all those All Rights Reserved Other than brief quotations in reviews or for your personal onetime use on a climb, no part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by electronic, mechanical, or any other means without written permission from the publisher. Nor should the information in this guide be used for commercial products without the courtesy of acknowledgement to both the author and the publisher. who come to Squamish in search of stone, adventure and discovery. To do so will only create bad karma for you. § Private Property Descriptions to climbs and trails which may lie in part on private land indicate historical usage only, they do not imply public right of access. Please observe any posted signs. Please Read This! Use of this guide must always be conducted with the required experience, tuition, and careful judgement necessary for safety. Rockclimbing is a potentially hazardous activity carrying a significant risk of personal injury or death, and should only be undertaken with a full understanding of all inherent risks. This book is only a guide to the climbs, a composite of opinions from many sources, some of which may not be accurate, and the information contained may not reflect the circumstances of a particular climb on a given day. Elaho™ is a trademark of Elaho Publishing Corporation. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 8 Navigating the Guidebook Regional Map ................................................. 1 Introduction ..........................................12–13 Acknowledgements ............................................... 14 How to Get to Squamish ............................................... 15 How to Use This Guide ..........................................16–17 Local Services for Climbers ..........................................18–19 Courtesy and Common Sense ..........................................20–21 The Grading System ..........................................22–23 Protection and Risk ............................................... 24 Protection Gear on the Climbs ............................................... 25 Rating the Quality of the Climbs ..........................................26–27 New Route Development ..........................................28–29 Retro Work on the Crags ............................................... 30 Placing Bolts ............................................... 31 Vegetation Removal at the Crags 32–33 The Rock Is Disappearing ..........................................34–37 Weather and Climate ............................................... 38 How the Chief was Created ............................................... 39 New Routes, Feedback, and Some Reading .............................. 40 Who Owns Our Crags? ............................................... 41 Squamish Mountain Rescue ..........................................42–43 The Ten Squamish Essentials ............................................... 44 Glossary of Some Climbers’ Words ................................................ Where Do You Want To Climb? ..........................................46–47 Climbs of Quality – Long Routes ............................................... 48 Climbs of Quality – Cracks ............................................... 49 Climbs of Quality – Offwidths and Chimneys .............................. 50 Climbs of Quality – Sport Climbs ............................................... 50 Climbs of Quality – Top-Roping // First-Lead Gear Routes ......... 51 SOUTH OF MURRIN Dynamite Alley Seal Cove The Quartz Pillar The Valley Of Shaddai Map of Valley of Shaddai Riant Ridge Routes Alex’s Room Mountaineer’s Cliff Donny’s Roof Avalon Connection Pillar Of Payan Wonder Wall Emmie’s Landing ............................................... 73 ............................................... 73 ............................................... 74 ............................................... 76 ............................................... 79 ............................................... 78 ............................................... 80 ............................................... 81 ............................................... 82 ............................................... 83 ............................................... 84 ............................................... 85 ............................................... 86 ............................................. 87 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Navigating the Guidebook 45 9 MURRIN AREA ............................................. 89 Map of Murrin Region ............................................... 88 Overview photos of the Murrin region ....................................90–92 The Bog Wall ............................................... 93 The Goo Traverse ............................................... 93 Sugarloaf ............................................... 94 Block And Tackle Area ............................................... 96 The Brunser Area ............................................... 98 Xodus Wall ............................................. 100 Milkman’s Wall ............................................. 102 North Of Milkman’s Wall ............................................. 103 Zoë ............................................. 104 Just For Fun Wall ............................................. 105 The Shaman ............................................. 106 Upper Shaman ............................................. 107 Lakeside-In-The-Woods ............................................. 108 Petrifying Wall ............................................. 110 Almost–At–The–Pet ............................................. 112 Petrifying Wall — Upper Crag ............................................. 113 Petrifying Wall — Main Crag ............................................. 116 Petrifying Wall — DOA Area ............................................. 118 Petrifying Wall — Left Side ............................................. 119 Up Among The Firs ............................................. 126 Above the Lake — Browning Bluff ............................................. 129 Above the Lake — Poltergeist Wall............................................ 129 Above the Lake — Crags in the Trees ....................................... 130 Leviticus ............................................. 132 Leviticus — Show Boat Wall ............................................. 132 Leviticus — Decibels Wall ............................................. 132 Leviticus — Main Crag ............................................. 134 Jalap Bluff ............................................. 136 Jalap — Climbs just to the North ............................................. 137 Nightmare Rock ............................................. 140 Nightmare Rock — Presto Area 142 Nightmare Rock — Wall of Dreams ....................................... 143 Nightmare Rock — Main Cliff ............................................. 144 Nightmare Rock — Far Right Side ......................................... 145 Petgill Wall ............................................. 150 Gonzales Creek Wall ............................................. 150 SHANNON—PAPOOSE ........................................... 153 The Papoose ............................................. 154 Papoose — North ............................................. 155 Papoose — Centre ............................................. 155 Papoose — South ............................................. 156 Papoose — Backside ............................................. 157 Shannon Falls ............................................. 160 Shannon Falls — Gobsmacking Wall .................................... 164 Olesen Creek Bluffs — Main Wall 166 Olesen Creek Bluffs — The Overlook ........................................ 166 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 10 Navigating the Guidebook THE MALAMUTE ........................................... 169 Lower Malamute ............................................. 172 Lower Malamute — Mirkwood Forest Area ............................ 172 Lower Malamute — Grub Street Wall ..................................... 176 Lower Malamute — Overly Hanging Out Wall ....................... 178 Upper Malamute ............................................. 183 Upper Malamute — The Cage ............................................. 183 Upper Malamute — Jacob’s Wall........................................... 184 Upper Malamute — TopTier ............................................. 184 Upper Malamute — The Terraces .......................................... 185 Upper Malamute — Starr Wall ............................................. 186 Upper Malamute — Stooges Slab ......................................... 187 THE CHIEF ........................................... 203 Map of the Chief ............................................. 202 The Climbing Areas of the Chief ............................................. 204 Principal Trails of the Chief ............................................. 205 Overview photos of the Chief ....................................206—215 Photo of Chief Parking, Camping and Approach Trails ............ 217 The Bulletheads ............................................. 219 Campground Wall ............................................. 220 Bulletheads South — Slot Machine Area ............................... 222 Bulletheads South — Above Slot Machine ............................ 223 Bulletheads South — Manana Wall........................................ 223 Bulletheads Upper — Corazon Face ..................................... 224 Above Bullethead Ledge ............................................. 230 Bulletheads Central ............................................. 232 Bulletheads North ............................................. 234 Bulletheads North — Constriction Ledge .............................. 234 Bulletheads North — Turkey Ledge ....................................... 235 Bulletheads Gully ............................................. 236 Bulletheads Upper — Exit Pitch 236 Stairway to Heaven ............................................. 238 Tantalus — Dihedrals ............................................. 241 Tantalus Wall ............................................. 241 The Dihedrals ............................................. 246 The Dihedrals — Climbs at the Base ..................................... 254 The Dihedrals — Upper Climbs 255 The Base of the Grand Wall ............................................. 257 Grand Wall Base Centre — Java Jive .................................... 260 Grand Wall Base Centre — Apron Strings Area .................... 264 Grand Wall Base — Climbs Below Flake Ledge.................... 268 Grand Wall Base — Climbs Above Flake Ledge ................... 268 Grand Wall Base — North ............................................. 270 Grand Wall Base — The Boulders Rockclimbs ..................... 274 -- Cacodemon Rock ............................................. 275 -- Eleven Bolt Rock ............................................. 276 -- Animal Magnetism ............................................. 276 -- Gilligan’s Island ............................................. 276 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Navigating the Guidebook 11 Long Freeclimbs on the Grand Wall ..................................... 279 Above Bellygood ............................................. 291 Climbs starting off Bellygood Ledge ...................................... 291 Climbs starting off the Upper Bellygood Trail ........................ 292 South Peak — The Penthouse ............................................. 296 South Peak — Raven’s Castle ............................................. 298 The Apron ............................................. 301 Lower Apron — Climbs Starting near the Car Park ............... 303 South Apron — Climbs Reached from Psyche Ledge .......... 304 South Apron — Climbs Starting near Diedre ......................... 305 Central Apron — Climbs Starting near Snake ....................... 309 North Apron — Climbs Starting near Evergreen State .......... 312 North Apron — Climbs Starting off Baseline Ledge .............. 314 North Apron — Short Climbs Below Broadway ..................... 315 Upper Apron — Climbs off the South of Broadway ............... 316 Highly Recommended Link-Ups on the Apron ...................... 323 The South Gully ............................................. 327 Squamish Buttress ............................................. 328 Squamish Buttress — Kashmir Wall ...................................... 329 Apron North Face ............................................. 332 Opal Wall ............................................. 336 Left of the Opal Wall ............................................. 337 Echelon Wall ............................................. 340 The Prow Wall ............................................. 341 The North Walls ............................................. 345 The Sheriff’s Badge ............................................. 347 North Gully — Approach Trail Climbs .................................... 347 The Badge — Long Climbs at the Left side ........................... 348 The Badge — Climbs off Caramba Terrace ........................... 349 The Badge — Climbs up to the Terrace ................................. 349 The Badge — Climbs starting from the Terrace..................... 350 The Angel’s Crest ............................................. 354 Zodiac Wall ............................................. 359 Zodiac Wall — Climbs at the Base ......................................... 359 Zodiac Wall — Astro Ledge Climbs ....................................... 360 The Promised Land ............................................. 364 The Squaw ............................................. 369 The Squaw — Klootch Area ............................................. 376 The Squaw — Dog Wall Area ............................................. 378 The Backside of the Chief ............................................. 381 The Heliopolis ............................................. 383 North Peak Trailside Climbs ............................................. 388 The White Cliff ............................................. 390 The Cirque of the Uncrackables ............................................ 392 Punk Rock ............................................. 397 Short and Curly ............................................. 397 The Solarium ............................................. 398 Backside — Above And Beyond ............................................ 404 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 12 Navigating the Guidebook THE SMOKE BLUFFS ........................................... 429 The Main Trails Around The Smoke Bluffs ................................ 430 Choosing A Place To Climb ............................................. 431 Map of the Smoke Bluffs ....................................432—433 Overview photos of the Smoke Bluffs ..............................434—441 Blind Channel Crags Fatty Bolger ............................................. 442 Ferret’s Folly ............................................. 443 The Boys of Porteau ............................................. 444 The Zip ............................................. 445 Island In The Sky ............................................. 446 High Cliff ............................................. 448 Car Park Crags Boulder Gully ............................................. 450 Turbocharger ............................................. 452 The Pleasure Palace ............................................. 454 Crag X ............................................. 455 Crag X — Lower Wall ............................................. 455 Crag X — Easter Island Area ............................................. 456 Crag X — Sniffler and Snorter ............................................. 456 Crag X — Upper Wall ............................................. 457 The Black Zawn ............................................. 460 Crystal Wall ............................................. 462 Krack Rock ............................................. 463 The Smoke Bluff Wall Area ............................................. 464 Smoke Bluff Wall — Cabin Boy’s Office................................. 465 Smoke Bluff Wall — Laughing Crack Area ............................ 466 Smoke Bluff Wall — Zombie Roof Area ................................. 467 Smoke Bluff Wall — Mosquito Area ....................................... 468 Smoke Bluff Wall — Upper Levels ......................................... 469 Smoke Bluff Wall — Battered Balls ........................................ 472 Neat And Cool Neat and Cool ............................................. 473 Neat and Cool — South Side ............................................. 478 Burgers And Fries Burgers and Fries — Main Cliff ............................................. 480 Burgers and Fries — Who Needs Pro? .................................. 484 Burgers and Fries — South ............................................. 485 Burgers and Fries — Alexis ............................................. 485 Penny Lane West Penny — Lunch Break Wall ........................................... 487 West Penny — Far West Buttress .......................................... 488 West Penny — Cuticle Death ............................................. 488 Penny Lane — The Main Cliff ............................................. 489 East Penny Gully ............................................. 492 Bughouse Heights ............................................. 497 Bughouse Heights — Loop Trail Stairs .................................. 498 Pixie Corner ............................................. 500 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Navigating the Guidebook Upper Crags Split Beaver Pink Cliff One Toque Wall Octopus’ Garden Funarama Fern Gully Ronin’s Corner Minor Smoke Bluffs Crags Lumberland Spiderfly Free And Easy Cockburns Nubile Woman Call It A Day Cheap Mango Wall Tunnel Rock 13 ............................................. 502 ............................................. 504 ............................................. 506 ............................................. 507 ............................................. 512 ............................................. 514 ............................................. 515 ............................................. 521 ............................................. 521 ............................................. 521 ............................................. 522 ............................................. 522 ............................................. 523 ............................................. 523 ............................................. 523 Other Climbing Areas Shannon Creek FSR ............................................. 524 Dryden Creek ............................................. 524 Comic Rocks ............................................. 525 West Side of Howe Sound ............................................. 527 The Art Gallery ............................................. 527 Crumpit Woods — Fern Hill ............................................. 527 Crumpit Woods — The Sanctuary ............................................. 528 Stawamus River Valley — Fluffy Kitten Wall .............................. 532 Alice Lake — De Beck’s Hill ............................................. 537 Climbs Not Included in Main Text 538 Index of Climbs ............................................. 539 The Back Page ............................................. 552 Advertisers Association of Canadian Mountain Guides ................................ 68 Arcteryx ............................................. 198 Climb On ............................................... 65 Climbers Access Society ............................................. 424 Diamond Head Lodgings ............................................. 417 Fringe Filmworks ............................................. 419 Elaho Press ............................................... 71 Gripped Magazine ............................................... 56 Howe Sound Inn and Brew Pub ............................................... 60 Mountain Equipment Coop ............................................. 423 Slipstream Rock Climbing ............................................. 190 Valhalla Pure ............................................. 193 West Coast Mountain Guides ............................................... 67 Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau ............................................... 54 Wild Rock Adventures ............................................. 197 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Introduction Introduction t is now 43 years since the first edition of the guide to the granite climbs of Squamish was first published, about 70 pitches in a few loose pages by Jim Baldwin. As then, this guide is also a comprehensive reference to those first climbs, and to the 3,000 or so pitches that have seen first ascents in the decades since. The climbing and establishing of new routes lies at the heart of the climbing life. It is what motivates the very best climbers, those with dedication, skill, the vision to explore and push boundaries, and perhaps soak up a little glory here and there. Without such effort there would be no climbs for anyone. A guidebook such as this has the appearance of being a reference to physical places, to stone, and names, and grades. That is misleading, as it is really about people, their ambitions, and their passions. Without them, there would be no need for any guide. So the guide’s purpose is straightforward; to help people discover the richness of the climbing life that exists at Squamish, to serve as their personal resource of great things-to-do; and, it is hoped, as a doorway to self-discovery through the art of rock-climbing. The geographic area of the guide runs from just south of Britannia to the Smoke Bluffs, and extends up the Stawamus River Valley to the east side of Mount Habrich. The Chief and Malamute are the centrepiece with most of the climbing, and the Smoke Bluffs and the greater Murrin area contribute about one quarter each. The size and complexity of this guide has meant some trimming has been necessary. Only a selection of the most popular and easier aid walls are described, pointing to the timeliness of a dedicated guide to all the aid climbs of Squamish. The guide no longer covers climbs south of Comic Rocks for similar reasons of lack of space. No bouldering is covered because a separate guide by Marc Bourdon does that very well, and this guide is about rockclimbs. Astute observers will notice some tightening-up of grades to address some longstanding anomalies, a retrenchment of quality stars to highlight the best climbs, and a re-appraisal of some climbs better considered to be variants of more substantial neighbours. Squamish is the world’s leading urban climbing centre, and is evolving toward becoming the most popular rock destination in North America. The immediate proximity of the climbing, the rich diversity of different things to do, from sport climbs to 16-pitch routes on the Chief, ocean-side crags, sunny faces and shady walls, and hundreds of splitter cracks, are the core of that interest. This, and the Squamish mantle of ‘The Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada’, have brought a resident population of hundreds of committed climbers, a thriving social scene, and many complementary activities that allow visitors from anywhere to immerse themselves in enriching experiences. The last edition of this guide was published in 1999, and in the six years since, the pace of new climb development has continued unabated. Since the early 1980s, new rockclimbs have evolved at an average of about 40–50 every year in the area covered by this guide, and there is no sign of the pace slowing down. The establishing of fine long routes on the Chief continues, of which Midnight Run (12b), The Ultimate Everything (10b), Millennium Falcon (11b), and Stairway to Heaven (10c) are prime examples. The latter is a remarkable linkup of 16 entirely bolt-protected pitches. A spectacular event of the last few years was the entirely free, 5.13a ascent of the Grand Wall in July 2000 by Americans Scott Cosgrove and Annie Overlin, every pitch to the top of the Roman Chimneys. Climbers continue to explore new places and find good new crags. There are fine linkups evolving, as centres like the Apron and Bulletheads become laced with a maze of interwoven pitches, a move toward choosing preferred combinations of pitches as climbers look for quality on their way up the bigger crags. The growth of interest in rockclimbing has brought many changes—over the last fifteen years in particular—and pressure on the climbs is growing. The most popular routes can see an almost unbroken line of ascents at busy times, and even the lower Backside trail is now gridlocked with hikers on peak days. Pause and ask yourself where we’ll be ten years from now. Almost all of our crags fall under the jurisdiction of a provincial government agency or the municipal government of Squamish. Increasing numbers of people and their impacts bring pressures that government cannot ignore, so if we want our climbing to be valued, accessible, and new routes continuing to emerge, we must engage and speak for our interests, and also address the consequences. This guide is for everyone who climbs at Squamish, no small task today when that ranges from families who just want a little top-roping, to clip-and-go sportheads, to climbers who enjoy a blast of strong adrenaline every week, and for those who like a little of everything. 14 I © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca 15 Enjoy the guide and all it has to offer. Kevin McLane May 2005. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Acknowledgements 16 How to Get to Squamish I would like to extend a sincere thank you to the many people who have helped in the production of this guidebook; supplying new route information, offering advice (whether asked for or not), drawing topos, reviewing descriptions and topos, and much more. The guide as it is would not have been possible without their support and knowledge, and it would have been a lot less fun to pull it off. My special thanks are due to Jeremy Blumel, Andrew Boyd, Robin Barley, Kris Wild, Matt Maddaloni, Colin Moorhead, John Howe, Jeff Thomson, James Laurie, Pat Delaney, Anders Ourom, Fred Beckey, Drew Brayshaw, Mandoline Clark, Kai Hirvonen, and Annie Roy for their perceptive insights and enthusiasm, Barry McLane for graphics work, and Ana Santos for wickedly sharp editing. Ten people have generously contributed outstanding photos: Paul Bride (www.paulbride. com), Chris Joseph, Dave Humphries (www.redpoint.com), Rich Wheater (www.richwheater.com), Matt Buckle (www.matthewbuckle. net), Jai Condon, David Harris, Kai Hirvonen, Andrew Lainis and Gord Ross. . and.. Chris Atkinson Marc Bourdon Tyrone Brett Jesse Brown Matt Buckle Adam Diamond Alan Douglas Mike Duffy Derek Flett Jeremy Frimer John Furneaux Brian Gould George Hanzal Pete Hill Andre Ike Chris Joseph Tony McLane Hamish Mutch Brian Pegg Gord Ross Annie Roy Rolf Rybak Jim Sandford Jim Sinclair Jody Smith-Hodgson Ed Spat Sheila Steinke Chris Stoltz Rich Wheater Peter Winter Glenn Woodsworth Harry Young ...and to anyone I have missed, my apologies And to all who, over the years, have sent emails, letters, stopped me on the street or at the crag to give me an earful, comment, advice or suggestions on what they’d like to see “in the next guide”, I thank you all, and welcome such feedback at any time. Past editions of the comprehensive guide to Squamish rockclimbs Jim Baldwin Dick Culbert Glenn Woodsworth Dick Culbert Gordie Smaill Anders Ourom Jim Campbell Kevin McLane Kevin McLane A Climber’s Guide To The Squamish Chief .................... 1962 A Climber’s Guide To The Coastal Ranges of BC ........... 1965 A Climber’s Guide To The Squamish Chief .................... 1967 Alpine Guide To Southwestern BC ................................. 1974 Squamish Chief Guide ................................................... 1975 A Climber’s Guide To The Squamish Chief .................... 1980 Squamish Rockclimbs ..................................................... 1985 The Rockclimbers Guide to Squamish ............................. 1992 The Climbers Guide to Squamish ..................................... 1999 S quamish is located on the southwest coast of British Columbia, Canada, about 60km north of the city of Vancouver. The rugged mountainous coastline of British Columbia is one of the world’s great scenic wonders, a land of deep inlets and great forests of tall douglas fir, cedar and hemlock. High mountain ranges and vast icefields tumble from the interior into the ocean. The dense forest landscape and the corresponding lush undergrowth are a hallmark of almost all the crags in this guide. The population of Squamish is around 17,000 and growing fast, swelling to many more than that in the spring to fall period. This is the centre of a world-class playground for adventure sports. Rockclimbing, mountainbiking, alpine hiking, backcountry skiing, windsurfing, mountaineering, and whitewater rafting are all major activities and opportunities, and now define Squamish to the world. Highway 99 from Vancouver to Squamish and Whistler is legendary for heavy traffic, with travellers heading for the playgrounds north of the city. Be prepared for slow driving at busy periods. Over the next few years, the Highway will be undergoing a major rebuild, widening to four lanes in many places with corresponding construction delays. The Ministry of Transportation makes considerable effort to time closures to minimise delay, but check in at their website: www. seatoskyimprovements.ca for current information. Plan your travel times to suit favourable periods. If you arrrive at Vancouver International Airport. Squamish is an hour and a half to the north by bus or rented car. Bus travellers can take the airport shuttle bus to Pacific Central Station at Main and Terminal in downtown Vancouver (800) 661-8747. Look for the Pemberton or Whistler bus, which runs several times a day. Approaching Vancouver from the east. Stay on Highway 1 to Horseshoe Bay, then continue along Highway 99 to Squamish. It is about a one hour drive from downtown Vancouver. Approaching Squamish from the north or the Rockies. Exit the Trans Canada Highway at Cache Creek, head north on Highway 97 for 12km to a junction with Highway 99. This is a scenic mountain route to Squamish through Lillooet, Pemberton, and Whistler enroute. Approaching Squamish from US Interstate 5. Head north from Bellingham directly to the Trans-Canada Highway, east of Vancouver. Stay on it, bypassing Vancouver to reach Highway 99 to Squamish. There have also been about 6 other guides that covered the climbs in part. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca 17 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 18 How to Use this Guide The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca How to Use this Guide A few minutes spent studying these pages will help make it easier to understand how to use this guide, and the meanings of the various symbols and abbreviations used throughout. To find a crag. Use the Navigating The Guidebook, pages 6–9. To find a climb. Use the Index, pages 539—551. Protecting Yourself. Read pages 24–25. Topos. In most cases, a photograph is used as the base for a topo of a crag, and overview images of an area. The intention is to show context and a view of the crag as well as route detail. Line-drawings are used where such photos are not possible, or where more detail is required. Some photos are ghosted to allow clarity of text. Page flipping. Topos of climbs will almost always follow text descriptions, and in the case of larger areas, topos have occasionally been consolidated into groups for ease-of-use at the end of the text. Headers and Footers. Use them to help navigate the guide. Variations. There has been a random consolidation of ‘routes’ which are more properly considered variations of a more significant climb. Where known, names and credits have been applied. Right and left assume the climber to be facing the rock. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca 19 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Local Services for Climbers Local Services for Climbers Camping. There are several campgrounds in the valley. The preferred one for climbers is the BC Parks campground at the Chief, with 60 walk-in sites. Another is the Municipal campground at Brennan Park Leisure Centre, a kilometre north of the Smoke Bluffs. Both sites are first-come, first-served. BC Parks also operates a major drive-in site at Alice Lake Park, 10km north of Squamish, usually desperately full in summer. Several other private campgrounds exist. Hiking. For an easy walk of a half-hour or so, head for the Squamish River estuary. An excellent map is available at the nearby Howe Sound Brew Pub and the Tourist Information Centre. Groceries. There are two large supermarkets in Squamish town centre: Save-On Foods in the Chieftain Centre, and IGA Marketplace in Squamish Station Mall. Both have good vegetarian supplies. Health Food Heaven beside Starbucks is a good source for alternatives. Tourist Information. The Squamish Adventure Centre on Highway 99 by the Smoke Bluffs is the one-stop place for almost anything you may wish to know about Squamish services. Hotels, motels, bed and breakfast, private campgrounds, and many activities and things to do on rest days. 20 Restaurants. Squamish is full of them, but some in the Town Centre area are especially popular with climbers. For evenings on the main street in the Town Centre, try Yianni’s (Greek); excellent food. The North Beach at the Howe Sound Brew Pub is more upmarket, but offers some of the best food in Squamish. The Mountain Burger House (24hrs) on Cleveland Avenue is good for old-style breakfasts and burgers. Taco Bell and Wendy’s on the Highway are the best fast-food choices for vegetarians. Pubs. Only one has caught the interest of climbers: the Howe Sound Brew Pub at the south end of Cleveland Ave. Deservedly so: with fine beers from their own microbrewery, including the legendary Baldwin & Cooper Ale (the first ascentionists of the Grand). The food is excellent, and the place is the climbers’ social centre of Squamish. Lattes & Goodies. Several places are popular. The Sunflower Bakery on the next block of Cleveland Ave: great baked goods and a long-time favourite of climbers. Starbucks in Squamish Station Mall, a popular gathering place for morning where-shall-we-go sessions in the sun; Pause Cafe on Cleveland Ave; a casual, social atmosphere. Gelato Place on Cleveland Ave; a casual, social atmosphere. Brackendale Bistro for real breakfasts. Eagle Run Cafe in Brackendale. Brennan Park Leisure Centre. Great for cheap showers, the hot tub and a large modern swimming pool. It’s on Loggers Lane, a kilometre north of the Smoke Bluffs car park. Mountainbiking. Squamish is the major centre for mountainbiking in Canada, so if you can, bring your bike along (or rent one) and head for the trails on rained-out days. The Public Library. The excellent public library is well worth visiting on rest days, or to check your e-mail; a nice place to spend time in pursuit of study or quiet reading. It’s on Second Ave in the Town Centre, three blocks south of the Chieftain Centre. Guiding. Four guiding services have placed ads in this guide. West Coast Mountain Guides ..... see Slipstream Rock Climbing ........... see Wild Rock Adventures ................. see Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau .. see their their their their ad ad ad ad on on on on www.highcol.ca page page page page 67 190 197 54 Climbing Gear. There are two climbers stores: Climb On, in the Chieftain Centre Mall is where you should be able to get all you need for the crags and the peaks. The new route book lives there, and there’s a small bouldering cave. Valhalla Pure beside the IGA supermarket near the Highway, with a full range of outdoor equipment and clothing. The Climbing Gym. Still don’t have one... Do we need it? Bank Machines. There are ATMs at the 4 banking institutions in Squamish Town Centre, and at both the major supermarkets. Post Office. On Cleveland Ave, near the Sunflower Bakery. Courier Service. From Connections, at 604-892-3335. Useful information sources for those seeking more information about the Squamish area and many other facilities: Squamish Tourist Information ................866-333-2010 District of Squamish ....................www.squamish.ca (604) 892-5217 BC Parks ....................(604) 898-3678 Squamish General Hospital ....................(604) 892-5211 Highway 99 Construction Status ...........www.seatoskyimprovements.ca Bus Service (Greyhound to Squamish) (604) 898-3914 (800-661-8747) BC Forest Service ....................(604) 898-2100 Environment Canada Weather ................www..weather.ec.gc.ca Squamish Information website ...............www.mysquamish.com Emergency ....................911 Police (RCMP) non-emergency ..............(604) 898-9611 Browning Lake at Murrin is a great place for an evening swim after a hot summer’s day. © Kevin McLane 2010 21 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Courtesy and Common Sense 22 W herever people congregate and seek the same thing, some common courtesies go a long way to providing the most fulfilling experiences for everyone. Falcons. If you wish to climb a long route in the Dihedrals area of the Chief between April and late July, check first to see if it is closed due to nesting peregrines. Be aware of all nesting birds, and stay clear. Check the Access Society’s website: www.access-society.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Toilets. Please use them. Dogs. Keep your dog on a leash and under your control. This can be an awkward situation at the crags for others who are less comfortable with a dog’s behaviour than their owners. Stay on the trails. Always try to stay on a defined trail to minimise erosion. Areas of special concern are the numerous trails in the Grand Wall Boulders and Smoke Bluffs. Courtesy and Common Sense 23 Thieves. Protect yourself. Lock it. Stash it. Don’t advertise it. Be courteous to other climbers. We are all entitled to enjoy our days on the rock, but when we are at popular crags on busy days, it strains common courtesy to be overly slow and dallying around when other climbers nearby may want to do the climb. Courtesy and understanding go a long way toward more harmony for everyone. In-situ quickdraws. If a climb has quickdraws in place, do not remove them: they belong to someone else. Climbing the route and using them is okay. However, if you equip a route with draws, remove them as soon as possible. Registration. Compulsory registration is not required for any of the climbs in this guide. But if you are planning a bivy on a route, avoid a situation where your vehicle is parked suggestive of someone late or overdue. Tell friends: leave a note on the windshield. Fire. In recent years, hot summers have created a serious fire hazard. Crag closures are possible. Learn about fire protection. No-trace bivouacs. If you are up on a wall and need to pull a bivy, leave your site or ledge with no trace of your presence. This includes hauling your own garbage and human waste. Large groups. If you operate a guiding business or teach a large group, please avoid monopolising popular crags and routes. To teach anywhere in the Squamish Municipality or in provincial parks, you must have a business licence or valid permit, respectively: or both. Throwing haulbags. No, not any more. Those days are gone. Someone might think it is a body, and you will have the Cliff Rescue Group after you. Besides, you might hit someone. Helmets. Their use is becoming more common, principally due to the increasing risk of falling rock and objects from climbers above; and the changing demographic of rockclimbing is bringing with it a lower tolerance for personal risk. First-come, first-served, but... When you are on a route, you’re under no obligation to allow other climbers behind you to pass. If you’re stuck behind a slower party, such as on the Grand Wall, please accept the situation as it is. It is also generous to allow a faster party to pass, and with good spirit, everyone gains. If climbers allow you to pass, be thankful, and buy them a beer later. Avoid excessive top-roping. Excessive top-roping on popular climbs polishes the rock: that’s a fact and is an irreversible process: look at Flying Circus. Damage can be reduced by avoiding top-rope sessions on popular classic climbs until your skill is up to leading them without falls, or better yet, avoid such climbs entirely. Please exercise restraint and have fun flailing on easier, less-travelled routes. It is the pressure of climbers flailing above their ability level that does most damage to the rock. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca Respond if hailed. If you are bivouaced, warm and snug and the RCMP start bellowing up from below asking if you are okay: respond! Someone, often Squamish residents with good intentions, will have reported you as ‘stuck’. Don’t ignore appeals, you are simply wasting others’ time. Shout back; they’ll hear you... Nearby residences. This is a situation unique to some parts of the Smoke Bluffs. Please keep noise down, always be courteous, and do not bother the residents. And always know that you are entitled to be there; the climbs and access to them are public land. Take responsibility for yourself. The decision to go climbing brings an inherent acceptance of all the risks involved, including the not-so-obvious. There are not only your own self-induced risks, but also those from above and from below. Rock and objects fall from the cliffs, perhaps onto you, and belayers are human and make mistakes, just as you do yourself. Avoid social distractions. When belaying, do not allow yourself to be distracted by social yakking with other climbers, and don’t distract someone watching over children and belaying. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 24 The Grading System The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Grading System 25 F or fledgelings who have little idea what the art of technical grading and the fine points of good style are all about, rest assured you are in good company: it can all be very confusing. The grading system used in this guide has its origins in the Taquitz Decimal System, developed in the 1930s in California, now better known as the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). It uses a five-tier method of assessing the difficulty of terrain. The Yosemite Decimal System Grades One and Two are no longer used, but refer to walking on easy terrain or steep hills. The Backside Trail is a Grade 2. Third class is scrambling terrain where a rope is considered not necessary. The difficulty of ‘scrambling’ will vary widely depending on the skill of the climber. It is 5.10 for some people. Fourth-Class defines climbing that requires only a rope and belays. It is a term that has less relevance today, as the excellence of modern protection gear ensures few pitches are unprotectable. Most ‘fourth’ terrain of the past is more properly described as ‘low-fifth’. Fifth Class refers to technical rockclimbing requiring both ropes and protection equipment. Grades from 5.10 (‘five-ten’) upward are further subdivided into a, b, c, and d. The stated grades should always be used as a guide to the difficulty, not a definitive statement. The Fifth-Class Climbing Grades Grades applied to sport climbs are generally in line with those on gear routes, but most climbers will lead at least two letter-grades lower on gear leads than sport. The words below are for gear leads. 5.6-5.8 The thrill of real climbing on open stone in the wind and sun, without taxing yourself hard, or cold-sweating about your demise. 5.9 You’re getting there, and the rock is getting steeper. 5.10 The happy level that most accomplished weekend warriors are able to lead: the doorway to the great climbs of Squamish. 5.11 This will get you onto the great majority of stellar routes. It is an ideal level to achieve, but requires training for most people, or regular hard climbing. Steady work can feel like a drag. 5.12 Requires much time at the crag, training, and natural talent. Hard to achieve with gainful employment, but some do manage it. 5.13 Demands great talent and full dedication. Employment is seen, at best, as an irritant. 5.14 Well, keep trying. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca Rating the technical difficulty is the intent of the Yosemite Decimal System. In practice, however, it is not possible to hold rigidly to that principle, or dramatic pitches such as the 5.10b Split Pillar would be graded 5.9 (it feels more like 5.11a). It is human nature that experience-based reactions affect the perceived (hence real) difficulty of rockclimbs. Getting a good feel for grades takes time. The atmosphere of a climb is also affected by the perception of difficulty when seen through the lens of not-so-great protection, relentlessly sustained effort, bolts every two metres, or the quality of the rock, or extraordinary exposure. A single grade is limiting, so an ‘overall’ grade, as used on alpine climbs, has its place. One day... High-angle face climbs can be difficult to grade with consistent assurance, as the characteristics of success; tiny footholds, shoe types, rubber, height, and the slickness of hot sun versus the stickiness of cool shade make it difficult. Expect inconsistencies. Offwidth grades can confound climbers. The technique seems to be so unnatural that most climbers must learn it the hard way. That is such a grind (literally), that it’s no surprise they have never proven very popular. The few climbers who are naturally adept seem to find them “easy”. Encouragingly, the availability of really big cams is spurring a rising popularity in offwidths. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 26 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Protection and Risk P rotecting yourself and travelling with acceptable risk on a rock or alpine climb is an art more than a science, and the bedrock of the skill is hard-earned experience, ingenuity, and good judgement. Experience is what we learn from the difficult and pleasant situations we encounter, ingenuity is creative application to problem-solving, and good judgement is an inner compass that acts as our natural instinct for making decisions. All are essential. For the rockclimber to be adept at placing protection equipment (‘gear’), from tiny wires and cams, to slings and threaders and all the tricks of the trade, is a critical skill for full engagement. Squamish climbs range from offwidths to sport climbs, with every conceivable type of climb between, with good protection and not, and up to 16 pitches long. Protection ratings are not included in the route descriptions due to the near-impossibility of maintaining a reliable standard across all Squamish climbs, and for it to have equal meaning across the skill levels of so many climbers. What may feel “a bit runout” to some climbers can feel like a joust with death to others. It all depends on your attitude, and a grading system can’t help there. Paradoxically, the most serious climbs, and climbs which offer very good and easyto-place protection, are relatively easy to identify, but the vast middle ground is difficult. Where possible and where known (note that last phrase), the route descriptions try to give hints and direct comment, and capture the flavour of some of the bolder and more out-there situations. Expect surprises. The climbers who are most at risk in these situations are not the better climbers, who tend to have an acquired sense of what’s appropriate and where, it is the novices who have difficulty assessing situations, and those who overstep their abilities. Climbs noted as ‘runout’, ‘bold’, ‘serious’, and similar warning phrases do not cover all such situations, as that is not possible to address. The harder and more famous climbs tend to be well-known, but the easier, and the little-travelled climbs can hold many surprises. And what was okay once may not be now, and modern gear can make what was once a runout situation less so. Always be aware. Conversely, climbs noted as ‘sport’ indicate those which have all-fixed protection, enough to place them at the low end of the risk spectrum, while ‘sport+’ indicates the use of only a small amount of gear is desirable, usually one to three pieces. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca Protection Gear on the Climbs 27 W hen assessing the protection gear required for a climb, it is essential to apply a large dose of common sense, and recognize your own comfort level at how much gear you need. Over the years, the assortment of the most-used gear for full pitches has become known as The Squamish Rack. – – – – – – 10 to 12 wire nuts, 8mm to 25mm. a single set of cams from thin fingers to full hand (8 or so). small RP-style wires, #3 up to #5 (3 or 4). a half-dozen or so standard tape slings; 2 biners each. a half-dozen or so quickdraws. a cordelette and a nut tool. Doubling-up on particular cam sizes is common where necessary, as is adding more wires or cams of a size specific to the climb. If you know the pitch is going to be a hard struggle; better safe than sorry. Larger cams and special sizes of wires considered essential are noted where possible and known. It is not possible, due to constraints of space and knowledge, to detail a gear list for every climb, and some climbers would not care for that anyway. Thin fingers and thin hands, leaning to the finger sizes are the most common size of gear placed in Squamish, and on most pitches you can expect to meet a bolt or two. Bouldering pads are now showing up at the crags, as climbers try to safeguard highball starts and serious single-pitch situations. Brand names of climbing gear are not used in the guide, as they can be of little help unless you are of that particular tribe. The choice of protection devices and brands is very wide, and all climbers evolve their own favourites. The sixty metre rope is most commonly used. On some climbs, double ropes offer more security. They help reduce rope drag and improve marginal protection; essential for some routes. At all times, be attentive, be mindful, and be aware of your surroundings, including social distractions when belaying. There is no substitute for recognizing the limits of your experience, having good judgement, and above all, being self-reliant. Competence at assessing and placing protection, setting up belays and good rope handling, are fundamental, life-preserving skills for the climber and should never be underestimated. Caveat emptor. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 28 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Rating the Quality of the Climbs T he quality of the climbs in this guide is rated by means of the conventional three-star system, with a couple special add-ons to reflect the nature of Squamish climbs. Over the course of several decades, the application of quality stars, a subjective proposition at best, has become increasingly random and not adhering to any clear, defined criteria. This guide attempts to make some correction to this evolved haphazardness by a more rigorous application of quality stars. These criteria are most easily applied to single-pitch climbs, where the quality of the actual climbing rates as more relevant than its local environment (Just Blessed). However, on multi-pitch and full-height routes on the Chief, there are very few climbs that hold a high standard on every pitch, so the very different ambience and “feel” of long climbs must be considered too. Rating the Quality of the Climbs 29 Multi-Pitch climbs In the case of longer climbs, the nature of the surroundings and continuity has high impact on the overall enjoyment gained, and this guide tries to apply a more experiential-based quality rating than is the case for shorter climbs. For the accolade of ‘three stars’ on a multi-pitch route, most pitches would need to be of a high calibre, with little or no poor climbing, and the overall atmosphere highly enjoyable: the essence of great climbing. By example, some climbs like The Ultimate Everything have no outstanding pitches, but its fine position on Echelon Wall, and a top-out on the summit, merit a higher rating (two stars) than any single pitch. The imprint on the mind and the feel of the climb as a whole is taken as its measure. Start climbing well There are several characteristics that climbers broadly recognize as belonging to the very finest rockclimbs; routes that are the very essence and thrill of why we live the climbing life. They are listed in two groups below, the first being more or less essential for three star routes in this guide, while of the second group are highly desirable. Of all the climbs in the guide, a little over one-third have quality stars applied, and to no surprise, the majority of climbs at each of the quality levels are 5.10d or harder. This is reflection, perhaps, of the preference for situations of exposure and steepness. Core characteristics of the finest pitches Any climber familiar with Squamish knows that the better climbs tend to be grouped together at the better crags. That’s a fact. They are often the most popular places too, especially if the grades are moderate. With a willingness to do some exploring in little-travelled areas, many quality climbs and fine days on the stone can be enjoyed. An “Oh my God, that must be it” kind of line. A distinct line of weakness that cannot be escaped to easier terrain. Clean rock, and of fine quality. Consistently outstanding moves, or flows of superb sequences. Finding the best climbs The Squamish Quality Star System Some desirable secondary characteristics Sustained difficulty: at minimum, few easy sections. A crux high on a pitch after a sustained battle. Steep, steep rock. A high degree of exposure, and much air beneath your feet. Climbing that delights by being easier than it appears. ***½ Climbs of stratospheric quality. *** The great climbs of Squamish. ** Exceptional climbs, the bedrock of the great climbs of Squamish. * A very good climb, a weekend on these routes is time well spent. none Everything else except smileys and black dots. Sport climbs In the case of sport routes, the same desirable criteria for the finest pitches apply, and also a few more, as the sense of artificiality introduced by ill-planned bolting can detract from the highest enjoyment of the climbing experience. A good climb that is prone to becoming vegetated, or is badly in need of a retro, but otherwise meriting stars. A heavily vegetated climb, or otherwise hopeless case. Or, if you prefer... Bolts that are well-located. As few of them as are reasonably practical. In resting locations as natural as can be arranged. *** ** * © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca Quit any other kind of life, live and breathe for this stuff. Sell everything and move to Squamish. As good as a five-star route in most other places. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 30 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca New Route Development C limbing is a game which exists without written rules, but with a set of conventions based on fair play and trust that have evolved over the last century. At Squamish, how you climb a new route is pretty much your own business, provided you don’t spoil the game for others and you accurately report how you did it. There are few things more satisfying in climbing than putting up a new route. It is a contribution to the game that thousands of people may enjoy long after you are gone, and a personal statement from you that other climbers will appreciate. To do it well is an art, and you will need excellent rope-skills, energy, and a willingness to work hard and alone. Always remember you are making a permanent alteration to the natural environment, and people will be looking at your work, with your name on it, 100 years from now: make it good. It is a good idea to take the advice below to heart. It is a summary of the knowledge and experience of many career climbers. Valid Leading Ascent Styles A first ascent is just that: the first time someone gets to the top. However, a pitch is considered free only if it has been climbed as an On-Sight, Redpoint, Flash, or by Headpoint. Some long climbs can become protracted endeavours with many climbers involved, climbing many pitches to eventually establish the route as ‘free’. The First Continuous Free Ascent (FCFA), no falls no rests, no aid of any kind whatsoever, is the Holy Grail in such cases. On-Sight. The purest of the pure: climbing at its very finest. No falls your first time ever on a route, and no prior hint of how to make moves, solve cruxes, or protection beta. Redpoint. Climbing a sport route or pitch with no falls after previous attempts. The redpoint evolved from the yo-yo of the mid1980s, which is an ascent with falls where the rope is not pulled. Flash. No falls on your first time ever on a route, but you already had inside knowledge of moves, cruxes or protection beta. A beta flash is one where someone literally talks you up move by move. Headpointing. This is the application of redpoint techniques to gear routes; usually very hard and serious ones. The moves are worked on top-rope; gear placements are perfected, the landing padded. Once you feel sure of yourself, you pray and go for it. New Route Development 31 T hink carefully before you embark on new route development, not only in terms of your own ambition, but also the consequences of what your proposed route will mean for the good of the climbing community in the long-term. Don’t squeeze. Another bolted route squeezed in tight to a classic or popular line is a dubious asset. Gear. Use natural gear wherever possible, it has less impact on the rock, and leaves no trace. If you need to place a bolt, keep it well away from natural placements. Is it wise to encourage bolting of nondescript routes that are little more than the size of highball boulder problems? Is it wise to bolt more pitches on the near gridded-out Apron? Many, many high-angle granite faces can be forced given enough skill, rubber and bolts. But how many such lines of bolts are of real benefit to the climbing community? Grade carefully. Try to assess the grade of your route fairly for onsight leaders. If your experience is limited, it’s wise to be honest and ask more experienced climbers for input. Mark your project. Use a ribbon or a sign to alert others that a project is in progress, and get on with the job and finish it. If someone is diligently trying to raise their standard to a difficult route, be patient and encourage them. Cash. Equipping new climbs, especially multi-pitch or sport routes, can be pricey. A 25m sport route usually costs at least $50, so do it right. Pay your own way, the bolt fund is for retro work. Trails. If you open a new crag, you’ll end up with a trail to it. Consider it part of the task and define it well. Rappel inspection, cleaning, and placing fixed pro if required prior to a first ascent, and ground-up on-sight leading, are all accepted. Don’t chip. This is destructive and highly unpopular, illegal in provincial parks, and very contentious everywhere. If you need to chip a climb down to your level and steal opportunity away from others, your ego, your grasping at pride, and clinging to delusions are way out of control: you’re on a fast track to bad karma. ‘Glory is fleeting, but obscurity is forever.’ Trundling. When working high on a crag, be very, very careful about trundling loose rock. When far above the ground, work only in rain and in the very early morning. Post signs below if necessary. the first ascentionist’s mantra, from Napoleon Bonaparte. Placing bolts. See page 31. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 32 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Retro Work on the Crags O ld bolts, belays and rappel stations rot; good but overgrown climbs sit unloved. There are many such situations at Squamish, and widespread interest in replacing unsafe protection bolts and rusty pins, replacing and improving belay and rappel stations has developed. Re-cleaning such climbs increases the number of quality routes, and encourages exploration in less-travelled areas. Whatever you may choose to do, always keep in mind the historical character of the route and try to retain the spirit of the first ascent. Adding more bolts, eliminating gear placements, extending or reducing runouts to popular or valued climbs is not for the fainthearted, as someone, somewhere, may disagree with your action, especially if the climb’s character is well-known and liked. There is a fine line of judgement between doing a thoughtful job of removing and replacing rotten protection bolts and pins, versus actions that may significantly change the character of the climb for the worse. Some things to think about before engaging in retro-work: Some good climbs can become overgrown. A good job of retro-ing them can create a route that lessens the pressure on other climbs. Respect the first ascentionist’s intention as well as the place of regard the climb holds to the climbing community. First ascentionists can not impose unreasonable limitations on how future generations retro their climbs. When we create first ascents or engage in retro-work, we are playing on a public stage; we enjoy the plaudits, but we care not for criticism. Some climbs can suffer from bolts that were badly sited, modern gear can fit where nothing would in the past, and new bolts need not be sited where pins were removed. Give extra thought to these situations, fewer points of protection, better arranged, are often possible. Good gear belays should not be bolted except on sport routes, or where no other means of descent is possible except rappeling. Repairing chopped bolt holes. Things can be improved nicely by chopping carefully to create the least amount of damage to the rock, or as has been done, by continuing to tighten it with a pipe on a 9/16” ring spanner and twisting until the bolt has extracted itself so far it becomes loose or breaks naturally. Drive the stud in, and fill the hole with a commercial product such as Rocktite. Add some crystals of granite to the outer face of the mix and the result can be near-invisible to the casual eye. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca Placing Bolts 33 T he expansion bolt has long been both a curse and a blessing to rockclimbers. It introduces a sense of artificiality into what is a natural environment, but allows us to climb where it would not otherwise be possible. The artificiality arises because the impact a bolt may have on other climbers’ experience is always at the subjective judgement of the holder of the drill. The bolt can dilute the experience of thrill and personal challenge, but its presence has moved climbing from a focus on hard-core adventure toward mainstream popularity. Our climbing lifestyle of today in Squamish has the existence of the bolt at its core. Bolts as a means of protection and aid have been in use at Squamish since at least 1959. The singular difference between then and now arrived in the late 1980s, in the form of the Hilti power drill. Parsimonious effort at the hard grinding work of hand-bolting a 1/4” hole was swept away by zipping in a 3/8” hole in a few seconds. The effect was revolutionary. The conflicts that have since arisen have invariably been centred on a clash of values between desire for the adventure-centred experience, and desire for a physically-oriented one. Both have their place, and both are essential to full enjoyment of all that climbing offers. Squamish can have the best of both worlds, but only if all climbers regard them each as important and seek the fine balance. When developing a new route, please keep in mind that the bolt changes things irrevocably, whereas natural gear does not. Use bolts only where necessary, and not near naturally-available protection. If you have doubts, ask more experienced climbers who have good judgement as to what’s appropriate. Before placing any bolts, please ask yourself: Are bolts appropriate on this route? If so, what is the most appropriate number of bolts? What are the most suitable locations for bolts? How well am I balancing my values with those of other climbers? Please try to adhere to the following often-conflicting guidelines: Place bolts in as straight a line as possible to minimise drag. Place bolts where the draws stop the rope slipping over a sharp edge. Place bolts where they can be reasonably clipped, no huge stretches. Place bolts not immediately beside a hand- or foothold. Place bolts on a solid piece of even rock: no hollow flakes thank you. Use only 3/8” stainless steel bolts; 1/2” for heavy-use stations. At bolted stations, always ensure there are two independent anchors. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 34 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Weather and Climate C limate on the southwest coast of BC is traditionally characterised by warm wet winters and dry summers, and weather that is changeable, especially during the Spring and Fall. The climbing season is virtually year-round on the south facing cliffs, and in winter, when the rain stops, local climbers are out in force on the rock. For visitors, the effective best season runs from early April to October. However, the climate is changing and traditional expectations are in need of adjustment. Hot dry spells are hotter (38°C in 2004) and last longer, stormy weather tends to be more intense, and can blow away more abruptly into sustained blue skies. When it rains, it can be spectacular: 100mm of rain in two days is not unusual, although that is less common outside of the fall-winter period. Spring. Winter usually relents in late February to mid-March, and climbers are out in force from this point on whenever the rock is dry. Expect very changeable weather, from cold rain, wind, warm sun and rainbows, to plus-30°C days. Long dry spells can dig in for weeks at a time but can be followed by a dampish summer. A little patience is required with the weather, but as a bonus, the mountains look inspiring loaded with spring snow. There can be quite a difference between valley crags, like the Bluffs and Pet Wall, and the high walls of the Chief or the exposed Upper Malamute, where it can be surprisingly cold in the wind. The Smoke Bluffs are especially popular at this time of year, mostly because of their sunny aspect and quick-drying climbs. Summer. Between early July and late September, there are almost always extended dry sunny periods, and temperatures can hover well above 30°C for many days at a time. Rain tends to be forgotten. However, it can dampen the rock at any time if high-pressure systems break down. Thunderstorms will drench the crags, but they are usually dry again the following day. Fall. Much the same as summer, but with cooler temperatures and rain developing by late October. Indian summers seem to be more common than not. This is considered the start of prime time conditions for bouldering as cool rock offers a higher ‘stick’ factor. Winter. Yes, it rains and storms lot, but it keeps the land green and re-supplies us with water. When it freezes hard once every few winters, out come the ice tools. The climbing season in Squamish is now more or less year ’round as we have passed that critical mass of ‘enough climbs to do’, with ‘just enough dry weather’. The discerning climber knows where to go. It also helps to live here. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca How the Chief was Created 35 T he region covered by this guidebook is a land with a fascinating geological history. In the time when the dinosaurs roamed the Earth 94 million years ago, the Chief was formed as a huge blob of molten magma some 25km below the surface, a by-product of the colossal forces of subduction of oceanic plates sliding underneath the North American plate. The magma, less dense than the surrounding rock, rose through the crust until it completely solidified about 10km below the surface. During this period of about a million years, the stresses of variable cooling caused continual fracturing into which adjacent, hotter magma quickly flowed and was suddenly subject to rapid cooling, forming the sinuous aplite dykes which are so endearing to climbers. Little by little, the earth above was eroded under the force of wind, weather and earthquake, and the land carried into the sea by the rivers. Some tens of millions of years ago, the Black Dyke was formed by an injection of basaltic magma into a great crack in the now-solid granite. By the time the last ice age began to cover most of Canada, the Chief had reached the surface, and it was during this period that the grinding glaciers created the familiar shape we know today. The gullies became deeper, and the great walls were sheared off, leaving in their wake the tumble of massive boulders at the base. The four gullies that create such dramatic cleavage through the Chief are zones where the rock became intensely fractured and chemically different, most likely long before the Chief reached the surface. Being much less resistant to weathering than the surrounding granite, water and ice eroded them into the great chasms of today. It was probably about 9,000 years ago that the retreating ice revealed the Chief, a shining dome of white granite rising above a sea of ice. The centuries rolled on, the glaciers receded to the high country, and the shape of the land as we know it today was in place. A tundralike ecosystem would have existed, and the first vegetation to return would have been hardy lichens. As they broke down and merged with rock dust, the first soils emerged creating a fertile environment for more advanced plant life. Insects returned from the warmer southern latitudes, followed by small rodents. The first trees to return were pines and spruces, which would have covered the landscape within a few hundred years of the ice receding. The Chief would have presided over a great fjord which stretched far up the valley. For much of the last 9,000 years, the Chief was very likely a barren dome of rock with few trees: an immaculate stone wonderland. It must have been quite a sight. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 36 New Routes, Feedback and Some Reading R eporting a new route or significant changes to existing ones is a tradition in climbing that goes back over 100 years. There are a number of ways you can contribute to this. Please describe your climb accurately, or your effort may not enlighten anyone too much. in Squamish, in the new route book at Climb On. in Vancouver, in the new route book at Mountain Equipment Co-op or send information by fax to Kevin McLane/Elaho at (604) 892-3609, or e-mail [email protected] on internet bulletin boards, but it’s best to also use one of the three methods above. Not everyone follows the forums, but the new route books are very well-thumbed. When describing your climb, try to follow the format in this guide: the grade of each pitch, and lengths if possible. the number of fixed protection points if any. the credits of who led, who followed, who was involved. the type of gear used, and/or number of bolts. spell the name corrrectly or that’s how it may be recorded. the date it was done. whether you consider it to be a sport route. please draw a topo of the climb, or draw it onto a photocopy. Feedback and Corrections are Much Appreciated If you can take a moment to send an email to the address above with comments on anything in this guide you think is not correct, or could be better expressed, or missing entirely, the author would be very appreciative. Some Suggested Reading Gripped Magazine Canada’s climbing magazine. Alpinist Magazine The world’s climbing magazine. The Canadian Alpine Journal Canada’s national annual. Conquistadors of the Useless Lionel Terray’s autobiography. Master of Rock Pat Ament’s biography of John Gill. How to Rockclimb by John Long. The Games Climbers Play A major anthology of great writing, edited by Ken Wilson. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca Who Owns our Crags? 37 A lways remember that someone, somewhere owns the land we climb on and has responsibility for caring for it and the rights of control. Listed below are the primary bodies that control access to the crags. The vast majority of climbs are on public lands. The task for everyone, climbers, landowners and public bodies, is made easier by all users minimising trail erosion, observing posted signage, leaving no garbage and respecting other users. The District of Squamish. Controls about 35% of the climbs, almost entirely in the Smoke Bluffs. Also the Art Gallery, in Crumpit Woods, and most of the climbs in the Murrin Park area. BC Parks. Controls about 50% of the climbs. An agency of the provincial government, BC Parks is responsible for management of park areas in the province, protecting the natural environment and providing stewardship of recreational assets. Stawamus Chief, Shannon Falls, and Murrin Provincial Parks all fall under their jurisdiction. In a cooperative effort with climbers, they developed a rockclimbing vision strategy in 1999, setting out some basic guidelines on how to conduct climbing activities, in particular new routes and refitting. The BC Forest Service. Controls about 5% of the climbs, and has so far had little to do with climbers. An agency of the provincial government, they are responsible for integrated management of logging, conservation and recreation on public forest lands. The only crag of significance that falls under their jurisdiction is Fluffy Kitten wall in the Stawamus River valley. Others include the undeveloped resources of granite on the west side of the Squamish River. The Forest Service is mandated to provide many opportunities for outdoor recreation. Where competing uses exist, the Forest Service may develop a management plan to integrate activities and conservation. Private Land. About 10% of the climbs. Some of the minor crags listed may fall on private land with no habitation or commercial activity, and where the public has not been restricted from visiting, such as Crumpit Woods and Mamquam Blind Channel. These situations may change, so please observe any posted signage. The only crag of significance that is privately-controlled, by CN Rail, and is presently closed, is the Lower Malamute. The Upper Malamute is also private land, but no restriction on access has been posted. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 38 So Where do You Want to Climb? So Where do You Want to Climb? 39 The Chief South of Murrin There is a wide range of climbs across the crags. The best are the sea cliffs of Seal Cove, the Quartz Pillar, and Comic Rocks. The Valley of Shaddai is a deep wooded valley east of Murrin Park. with 8 crags offering 30-plus sport and gear climbs, 5.9 to 5.11. Murrin Park This complex area of 24 single-pitch crags is one of the three major centres of Squamish rockclimbs. Murrin lies on both sides of Highway 99, about 8 kilometres south of the Chief, and has something to offer every climber, from novice to 5.13: quick access and many high quality climbs. Sport climbs, cracks, and mixed face routes abound. For 5.10s, check Up Among The Firs and the crags above the parking lot. Petrifying Wall is the major crag of the area, with a couple dozen stellar sport routes from 5.11 to 5.13, and some of the best gear routes in the guide. Up Among the Firs offers many fine 5.10s, with great views too. Nightmare Rock hosts one of the best collection of hard cracks at Squamish, 5.11 and up. Shannon Falls-Papoose A kilometre south of the Chief, and with a short approach, these large cliffs offer climbs that have a wide range of characteristics: multi-pitch, high-angle face, moderate cracks, a collection of outstanding one- and two-pitch 5.11s on Gobsmacking Wall, and a few excellent multi-pitch 5.10s. In all, over 40 climbs. The Malamute This is the granite dome across Highway 99 from the Chief. There are about 70 climbs listed on the hidden seaward side, divided into separate Upper and Lower areas . Many are outstanding. The upper cliffs, which are heavily laced with sport routes, are accessed directly from the highway by the Chief. The Lower Malamute has several fine multi-pitch routes accessed by rappel from the Upper Malamute. Smoke Bluffs With 400 single-pitch climbs on more than 40 crags, close to the town centre, a sunny aspect and quick-drying rock, the Smoke Bluffs is by far the most heavily-used area in the guide. Difficulty ranges from low-fifth-class to hard 5.12; there are excellent teaching cliffs, good cracks and face climbs, and you’ll never be alone. © Kevin McLane 2010 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca www.highcol.ca The Chief is the centrepiece of the guide, and its climbs encompass half of all the climbing in this guide, with close to 100 multi-pitch climbs up to 17 pitches, magnificent cracks, superb aid walls, and nerve-tingling friction climbs. See the map on page 202. There is no area below that has a mono-culture of one type of climbing only: great climbs are found in each, and except where noted, they range from moderate to hard in difficulty. Chief — The Bulletheads south and west A collection of sunny, tiered cliffs above the campground that offer many climbs of a wide variety. You can’t go wrong here. Chief — Tantalus—Dihedrals west Notable for the mighty Freeway, Tantalus Wall, and Millenium Falcon. Chief — The Grand Wall west The spiritual home of Squamish. Long freeclimbs, tremendous splitters and 40 climbs of one to six pitches scattered along the base. Chief — Above Bellygood west Now a centre of interest, there are quite a number of excellent climbs scattered along the upper walls of the Chief’s south peak. Worth it. Chief — The Apron west / northwest The great sweep of granite that cascades down to the highway, the Apron is home to over 60 routes, including well over 20 that are 5 pitches or more in length. The Chief — The South Gully northwest The shady side holds a couple good moderate multi-pitch climbs, the sunny upper side is home to two fine long climbs. Chief — The North Walls north Although there are only 40 or so freeclimbs here, with few exceptions they are for heavy-hitters only—multi-pitch climbs of 5.11 and up. Chief — The Squaw north The big crag of choice for a wide selection of 5.10 multi-pitch climbs. Chief — The Backside south The 75 or so climbs on the sunny south side of the Chief offer quality climbing up to 3 pitches long, far removed from the hustle of the valley. Mostly 5.10—5.11. © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 40 Climbs of Quality — Long Routes A selection of outstanding multi-pitch climbs. Banana Peel Friction ................. .8 ......... 7p .... Chief - Apron Diedre Corner/friction ..... .8 ......... 7p .... Chief - Apron A Cream of White Mice Face ..................... .9 ......... 4p .... Chief - Bulletheads Jungle Warfare Crack ................... .9 ......... 5p .... Chief - Squaw Snake Corner/friction ..... .9 ......... 7p .... Chief - Apron St Vitus Extra Crack ................... .9 ......... 6p .... Chief - Apron Bottom Line—Banana Peel—Granville St...... .9 ....... 13p .... Chief - Apron Smoke Bluff Connection Crack/face ........... 10a ...... 4p .... Smoke Bluffs Rock On Corner/layback .... 10a ...... 5p .... South Gully Papoose One Face ..................... 10a ...... 6p .... Papoose Sickle, Arete Finish Corner/friction ..... 10a ...... 6p .... Chief - Apron North North Arete Cracks ................. 10a ...... 6p .... Chief - Pr. Land Over The Rainbow Friction ................. 10a ...... 7p .... Chief - Apron The Angels Crest Mixed ................... 10b .... 13p .... Chief - The Badge Birds of Prey Crack/face ........... 10b ...... 5p .... Chief - Squaw Bullethead Connection Face ..................... 10b ...... 6p .... Chief Ultimate Everything Crack/face ........... 10b .... 10p .... Chief - Echelon Wall Upper Black Dyke Face ..................... 10c ...... 4p .... Chief - Bellygood Godforsaken Land Mixed ................... 10c ...... 5p .... Chief - Squaw One Scoop and... Friction ................. 10c ...... 6p .... Chief - Apron Wonderful Tiggers Corner/face.......... 10c ...... 7p .... Habrich East Stairway to Heaven Sport/face ............ 10c .... 16p .... Chief - South The Great Game Cracks ................. 10d ...... 4p .... Chief - Squaw Cruel Shoes Face ..................... 10d ...... 6p .... Chief - Grand Wall Edge of Anxiety Corner/friction ..... 10d ...... 9p .... Chief - Apron Apron Odyssey Face/friction ......... 10d .... 10p .... Chief - Apron Bloodlust Direct Friction ................. 11a ...... 6p .... Chief - Apron Movin to Montana Face ..................... 11a ...... 4p .... Chief - Grand Wall Frayed Ends of Sanity MIxed/face ........... 11a ...... 5p .... Chief - Squaw Millenium Falcon (lite) Crack/mixed ........ 11a .... 10p .... Chief - Dihedrals Grand Wall lite Corner/crack........ 11a .... 10p .... Chief - Grand Wall Cruel Shoes–RChimneys Corner/crk/face .. 11a ... 16p .... Chief - Grand Wall Dancing in the Light Friction ................. 11b ...... 6p .... Chief - Apron Unfinished Symphony Corner/friction ..... 11b ...... 8p .... Chief - Apron Wall of Attrition Crack/mixed ........ 11b ...... 7p .... Chief - Grand Wall Tantalus Wall Face crack........... 11c A0 8p .... Chief - Tantalus Wall Milk Run—Tantalus Corner/crack........ 11b A0 9p .... Chief - Tantalus Wall Magic Carpet Ride Friction ................. 11c ...... 4p .... Shannon Falls Freeway—Expressway Mixed ................... 11c/d . 11p .... Chief - Dihedrals The Daily Planet Corner.................. 12a ...... 5p .... Chief - The Badge Dream On Friction ................. 12a ...... 7p .... Chief - Apron Northern Lights Corner.................. 12a .... 12p .... Chief - Zodiac University Wall Corner/face.......... 12a ...... 8p .... Chief - Grand Wall Midnight Run Crack/face ........... 12a/b . 10p .... Chief - Tantalus © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Climbs of Quality — Cracks 41 Climbs listed are single-pitch routes. Long multi-pitch routes F = Face crack are in general, loaded with quality cracks. C = Corner-crack Pauls Crack Slap and Tickle Partners in Crime Crime of the Century Sentry Box Penny Lane Slot Machine High Mountain Woody Sunblessed (pitch 2) The Zip A Little Testis Arrowroot Seasoned in the Sun Exasperator (pitch 2) Just Blessed Perspective Claim Jumper Flight of the Challenger Apron Strings Deadend Dihedral (pitch Pixie Corner Rutabaga Laughing Crack Exasperator (pitch 1) Mushroom The Left Side Cat Crack Octopus Garden Orifice Fish Cruising to Infinity Astrologger Quarryman Mercy Street Talking Crack Klahanie Crack Blazing Saddles High Plains Drifter A Pitch in Time Elephantiasis Vector (pitch 1) Pipe Dream Finger ....................10a ....... F ......Malamute Upper Finger ....................10b ....... F ......Malamute Upper Finger ....................11a ....... F ......Penny Lane Finger ....................11b ....... F ......Penny Lane Finger ....................12a ....... F ......Nightmare Rock Finger-hand ............9 .......... F ......Penny Lane Finger-hand ............9 .......... F ......Bulletheads Finger-hand ............9 .......... F ......Malamute Upper Finger-hand ...........10a ....... F ......Solarium Finger-hand ...........10a ....... F ......The Zip Finger-hand ...........10b ....... C......Up Among Firs Finger-hand ...........10b ....... F ......Dihedrals Finger-hand ...........10a ....... F ......Grand Wall Base Finger-hand ...........10c ....... F ......Grand Wall Base Finger-hand ...........10c ....... F ......Up Among Firs Finger-hand ...........11a ....... C......Nightmare Rock Finger-hand ...........11d ....... F ......Nightmare Rock Finger-hand ...........12c ....... F/C ..Petrifying Wall Finger-layback .......10b ....... C......Grand Wall Base 1) Finger-layback ...11a ....... C......Dihedrals Finger-stem ............8 .......... C......Pixie Corner Finger-hand-stem ..11a ....... C......Dihedrals Finger-thinhand ......7 .......... F ......Smoke Bluff Wall Finger-thinhand .....10a ....... F ......Grand Wall Base Thinhand ................9 .......... F ......Papoose Thinhand ...............12a ....... F ......Grand Wall Thinhand-hand .......6 .......... F ......Neat and Cool Thinhand-hand .......7 .......... F ......Octopus Garden Thinhand-hand .......9 .......... F ......Spilt Beaver Thinhand-hand ......10c ....... F ......Above & Beyond Thanhand-stem .....11b ....... C......Zodiac Base Hand-layback .........8 .......... C-F ..Penny Lane Hand-Layback .......10b ....... C......South Gully Hand .......................7 .......... F ......Ravens Castle Hand .......................7 .......... F ......Shannon Falls Hand ......................10b ....... F ......Sheriffs Badge Hand ......................11c ....... F ......Sheriffs Badge Hand-fist ................10b ....... F ......Bulletheads Hand-fist ................10c ....... F ......Ronins Corner Hand-fist-offwidth ...9 .......... F ......Apron Fist ..........................8 .......... F ......Octopus Garden © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca Climbs of Quality 42 Offwidths and Chimneys 43 Suggested Top-Roping Areas A selection of the best wide crack and chimneys Bop till You Drop Fist ...........................10b ... 4” .... Cirque Uncrackables Split Beaver Fist ...........................10b ... 4” .... Smoke Bluffs March of K...Utensils Offwidth-Layback .....9 ...... 5” .... Cirque Uncrackables Tantalus Wall (pitch 2) Offwidth Face ..........10a ... 5” .... Tantalus Wall Boogie till You Puke Offwidth Face ..........11b ... 6-7” . Cirque Uncrackables Fissure Flavelle (pitch 2) Offwidth Face ..........10c.... 5” .... Above and Beyond Angels Crest (p. 8 var.) Offwidth Face ..........10b ... 7” .... Sheriffs Badge Hypertension Offwidth Face ..........11a ... 5” .... Nightmare Rock Pipeline (pitch 4-5) Offwidth Corner .......10d ... 8-9” . Squaw The Scimitar Offwidth Corner .......11a ... 8-9” . Cirque Uncrackables Wild Turkey Chimney-Fist-Finger 11a .......... Bulletheads Sunshine Chimney Centre Chimney .................8 ............... Bulletheads Kneewrecker (pitch 5) Chimney ..................10a ............ Grand Wall Base Yosemite Pinnacle Left Chimney ..................10b ............ Tantalus Wall Tall Skinny People Chimney ..................10c............. Zodiac Brunser Overhang Chimney ..................11a ............ Brunser Places are in demand where top-ropes are easy to set up and the climbs moderate. At the crags listed, it is possible to walk to the top and arrange ropes with a minimum amount of difficulty. Keep in mind that if you need to top-rope because you are unable to lead, then setting the top-rope, while unroped at the top of the crag could be the most hazardous thing you do all day. Murrin - Sugarloaf Murrin - Bog Wall Upper Malamute - The Terraces Upper Malamute - Jacobs Wall Upper Malamute - Highest Tier Smoke Bluffs - Jug Slab Smoke Bluffs - Krack Rock Smoke Bluffs - Fern Gully Smoke Bluffs - Fatty Bolger Smoke Bluffs - Neat and CoolSmoke Suggested First-Lead Gear Routes These single-pitch climbs all offer excellent natural protection. Sport Climbs A selection of the best sport routes. Draws only. The Flingus Cling Black Water The Right Stuff Pleasant Pheasant Presto Morpheous The Red King Totally Clips Zoe Stairway to Heaven Bulletheads Sport Linkup Xenolith Dance Ride The Bullet Women in C.. Shoes Sisulu Flight of the Fledgelings Joe’s Dyke The Archer’s Arrows The Trimark Years Mr Ciechanowski Rippling Waters Gold Medal Ribbon Climbs of Quality 12b 12a 11a 10d 13a 11b/c 10d 10b .9 10c 10b 10b 10d 10a 10b .4 .7 .7 11b 10a 10c 11b Murrin - Petrifying Wall Murrin - Petrifying Wall Murrin - Petrifying Wall Murrin - Petrifying Wall Murrin - Nightmare Rock Murrin - Nightmare Rock Murrin - Nightmare Rock Murrin - Up Among the Firs Murrin - Shaman Wall Chief - South 16 pitches Chief - Bulletheads 7 pitches Chief - Bulletheads 2 pitches Chief - Bulletheads Chief - Bulletheads 3 pitches Chief - Raven’s Castle Chief - Raven’s Castle Chief - Raven’s Castle Chief - Raven’s Castle Chief - The Penthouse Chief - The Penthouse Chief - Heliopolis Chief - Skyline Slab © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca Fern Gully Cat Crack Magical Child Corner Crack Laughing Crack Octopus Garden Sparkletoast Easter Island Pixie Corner Up From The Bog Slot Machine (2p) Cold Comfort Movin On Over 4 6 6 7 7 7 7 8 8 8 9 9 9 Smoke Bluffs - Fern Gully Smoke Bluffs - Neat and Cool Smoke Bluffs - Ronins Corner Smoke Bluffs - Neat and Cool Smoke Bluffs - Smoke Bluff Wall Smoke Bluffs - Octopus Garden Smoke Bluffs - One Toque Wall Smoke Bluffs - Crag X Smoke Bluffs - Pixie Corner Murrin - Bog Wall Chief - Bulletheads Smoke Bluffs - Boulder Gully Smoke Bluffs - Burgers and Fries First-Pitch Specials These routes all offer substantially easier climbing on their first pitch or so, which can be overlooked as a source of quality climbing. Local Boys Do Good Deadend Dihedral Java Jive The Opal Frayed Ends of Sanity 10b 11a 10d 12a 11a pitch 1 pitch 1 pitch 1 pitch 1-2 pitch 1-5 © Kevin McLane 2010 Shannon Falls Chief - Dihedrals Chief - Grand Wall Chief - South Gully Chief - Squaw www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 44 45 ABOVE BELLYGOOD B ellygood Ledge is the demarcation line at about two-thirds height across the entire Grand Wall. It separates the long climbs below and the upper, less travelled areas. The terrain above the south end of Bellygood now has many pitches of good climbing, and is crossed by integral routes such as Millennium Falcon and Stairway to Heaven. The approach to the climbs is via the Backside trail, although any can be combined with an ascent of the Grand Wall or Millennium Falcon. Follow the Backside trail as for the South Summit of the Chief (page 381), then exit left to take the Bellygood trail (page 381). Getting there... Bellygood trail. Take the Backside trail as for the heavily-travelled South Chief summit. After about 20 mins, and 50m above the trail junction for the North Chief, a 6m fixed line can be spotted to the left leading up a short slab. Pull up it, and follow the trail above left then up to a fine open slab. From its top, turn right onto a trail now heading northward through a generally flattish forest. After a few minutes it arrives at the south end of Bellygood. 35 mins. Climbs starting off Bellygood Ledge 152 The Roman Chimneys ** 10d (11d) 159 The Upper Black Dyke ** see page 281. 10c 4p Greg Shannan (solo aid); 1974 FFA: Robin Barley, Gordie Smaill; 1974 Variation finish: Allen Agopsowicz, Mathew Maddaloni; July 1996 p2: Sean Easton, Kevin McLane; July 1999 Above Bellygood Ledge, the Upper Black Dyke offers fine exposed situations and excellent climbing, albeit with some loose rock here and there. It is now all bolt-protected and the first 2 pitches are especially outstanding. Start off Bellygood on nice incut holds, then make a handrail traverse below the bulges to steeper climbing and a belay on the right: 6 bolts (10a). Move up past 2 bolts, then go out right onto the open wall–a long and stunning pitch that rejoins the dyke after 45m: 6 bolts (10c). A tricky start leads to easier, wandering climbing in the wide dyke: 5 bolts (10b). A nice pitch leads to cruxy moves near the top : 5 bolts (10b). A variation finish goes out left down an undercling just before the final steep section on the final pitch, then up a 5.8 crack to finish. Be aware that the presence of climbers on this route raises stonefall concerns at the base of the Grand. 160 On Tilt 11c 2p Dean Hart, John Rosholt, Scott Young; 1985 About 50m right of The Black Dyke is a major left leaning corner system. Climbed in two pitches (11c, .9). From its top traverse off right, with opportunity to continue up Millennium Falcon (page 251). CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202 CHIEF PHOTOS 207–217 © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca GRAND WALL UPPER BLACK DYKE AREA © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 46 80 60 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD Millennium Falcon (Upper) Stairway to Heaven 11b 10c see page 251 see page 238 163 Shaved Bum ** Climbs starting off the Upper Bellygood Trail For access to the climbs off the Upper Bellygood trail, take a steep line up a 12m left-leaning dirt ramp about 25m south of Bellygood. Move right at its top, and follow a line that weaves directly upward for about 20m, with a touch of scrambling in a couple places. 161 Damn The Torpedos * 10c 12a Colin Moorhead, Kai Hirvonen; June 1998 47 3p FFA: Colin Moorhead, James Laurie; May 2001 An incredible crackline splitting the prominent ass-like feature at the right side of the cliff. A short way along the Upper Bellygood trail, climb the obvious right-facing corner that leads to the base of a steep dihedral/groove (.8). A sustained thin crack leads to a chimney and a rest, steep jamming and an easier corner: stellar, heavy on thin gear (12a). Finish up the easier corner above (10b). 164 The Universal Key * 10b #8 SPORT 30m Nick Watts, Will Dorling; May 21st, 2003 3p A good climb; face, flakes and even a jam. Sustained with good rests. Enjoy the sting in the tail. Part of Stairway to Heaven. Off the Upper Bellygood trail climb an appealing right-facing corner, steepening to an undercling and a pull over an overlap into a thin crack. Belay at a big ledge above (10c). Layback the fine orange corner above: easier than it looks (.9). Finish off right over fingery flakes, then back left to the rim (.9). The following 2 climbs are accessed by climbing The Universal Key, or pitch 13 of Millennium Falcon. Alison Cerney, Kevin McLane; September 2004 162 Colon .9 N 3p Dick Culbert, Alice Purdey; November 1965 FFA: John Coope, Jim Campbell; September 1981 Climb the initial scruffy corner of Shaved Bum (.8). Head out right along an obvious traverse below the high exposed wall (.8). Finish up the wide laybacky corner above, or go out right as for Damn the Torpedos (.9) 165 Gold Medal Ribbon * 11b #9 SPORT 30m Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling; April 1998 Sustained dyke walking and pinching. An excellent climb, but can be a difficult finale to Millennium Falcon in summer heat. 166 Up From Nowhere 10c 30m Kai Hirvonen, Craig Rankin; July 1998 Undercling and lieback. Good. GRAND WALL UPPER BLACK DYKE AREA © Kevin McLane 2010 BELLYGOOD INTRO 241 www.highcol.ca CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202 CHIEF PHOTOS 207–217 GRAND WALL UPPER BLACK DYKE AREA © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 48 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD GRAND WALL UPPER BLACK DYKE AREA © Kevin McLane 2010 THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD BELLYGOOD INTRO 241 www.highcol.ca CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202 CHIEF PHOTOS 207–217 49 GRAND WALL UPPER BLACK DYKE AREA © Kevin McLane 2010 www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 50 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD 51 South Peak — The Penthouse This is a west-facing cliff in a fine airy position near the summit of the South Chief with a collection of excellent face climbs. Sport climbs with a view. The climbs start off the long ledge system that runs from the top of the Roman Chimneys southward to the Backside trail. When climbing here, please consider that anything you drop or dislodge will fall without a bounce onto climbers at the base of the Grand Wall. Getting there... Take the Backside trail as for the South Chief summit (page 381). After about 25 mins the trail passes beneath a very prominent line of low roofs overhead, then emerges into more open terrain. After another 50m or so, look underfoot for a short 10m section of basalt bedrock. Exit left here, onto a small trail for 50m to reach a viewpoint down to the valley. Continue north along a ledge below an undercut roof for 35m to the first climb. About 35 minutes. 167 Mr Ciechanowski * 10a #6 SPORT 25m John Howe, Jim Hegan; August 1999 The easiest route on the cliff, 25m along the trail. Start 20m right of The Trimark Years. Pull the fun roof on jugs, then climb without difficulty to chains above. 168 The Trimark Years * 11b (10c+1pa) #10 SPORT 40m Peder Ourom, Anders Ourom; March 1998 An obvious line of bolts trending up right at the point where the low roof that undercuts the wall has almost merged into the base. Step up to the roof, to reach bolts. The crux is a long reach at the third bolt. 169 Bad Religion ** 10d #10 SPORT+ 40m Colin Moorhead, Will Dorling; March 1998 Pull over the roof left 4m of Trimark, and follow the line of bolts. Gear to 2”. 170 Chickenhead Soup * 11a 40m Colin Moorhead, Kai Hirvonen; Oct 1997 Pull over the roof as for Bad Religion, then go left out along an obvious handrail of holds for 10m, then straight up. A tad runout. 5 bolts, gear to 2½”. The next three climbs, noted by a pair of bolts at their common start, begin off a small terrace 10m up and left of the start of Chickenhead... 171 High Society * 11c #9 SPORT+ 30m Colin Moorhead, Rich Wheater; March 1998 Climb the crack to the tree, and climb the righthand line of bolts above. Take a couple cams to 2 for the crack”. 172 Now With Wings ** 11b #8 SPORT+ 30m Colin Moorhead; Nov 1997 Start as High Society, take the lefthand line of bolts and a couple cams to 2”. 173 Forum 11c 30m James Laurie, Colin Moorhead; June 2001 Start as High Society to a small bush, then go up left along a fault/crack until it is possible to climb directly up past 4 bolts. Small to medium wires and cams. GRAND WALL PENTHOUSE © Kevin McLane 2010 BELLYGOOD INTRO 241 www.highcol.ca CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202 CHIEF PHOTOS 207–217 © Kevin McLane 2010 GRAND WALL PENTHOUSE www.highcol.ca The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca 52 The Climbers Guide to Squamish FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD THE CHIEF -- ABOVE BELLYGOOD South Peak — Raven’s Castle The next 3 climbs all start from a single bolt station on the low-angle slab. This is the beautiful west-facing apron at the summit of the South Chief. When looking up from downtown Squamish, Raven’s Castle is the Chief’s ‘nose’. The rock is superb throughout. Most pitches are moderate in difficulty, offering a good experience for novices. Getting there... Take the Backside Trail to the Penthouse (pages 296/381). After 30m, head right up an easy gully that leads to open slabs above the Penthouse, and continue northward into flat open bedrock and the sweeping slabs of Ravens Castle come into view on the right: 45 minutes approach. Climbs described from the left. Descent... Walk down well to the south side, or rap on two ropes. The next 5 climbs all start from a bolt station at the far left side. Make a few moves up the short wall along the base of the slab to reach it. 174 Talking Crack 53 .7 35m 180 Slesse’s 500 *. .9 #5 (p2) Kevin McLane, Tony McLane, Barry McLane; April 1999 SPORT 2p Trend up leftward and belay in a scoop #3 (.7) Continue across Joe’s Dyke, then finish out left #5 (.9). 181 The Archer’s Arrows .8 #3 (p1) Barry McLane, Tony McLane (alts); April 1999 The Bow: Kevin McLane, Tony McLane, Barry McLane; April 1999 SPORT 2p Climb directly up to belay in a scoop #3 (.7). Move right to a bolt, then directly up a wide scoop to finish; a bit harder than the first pitch # 3 (.8). The Bow, a direct finish, continues straight up, finishing just right of Joes Dyke #2 (.9). 182 The Flight Of The Fledglings * .4 #5 (p2) SPORT 2p Tony McLane, Barry McLane (alts); April 1999 Climb up right over polished rock to a bolt station in a scoop #2 (.4). Pad up the wide arete above on good holds #5 (.4). This is one of the nicest really easy climbs at Squamish. Joe Turley; 1962 A short S-shaped hand-crack in a beautiful position at the far left of the crag. Climb a deep flake (4th) at the left edge of the slab to reach the hand-fist crack. 175 Joe’s Dyke ** .7 #6 SPORT (p2) 2p Joe Turley, Jim Sinclair (solo); c.1978 This is the long dyke that cuts left to right across the crag: one of the best easy sport face climbs in the guide. Belay as for Talking Crack, then head up right on a dyke to the base of the steepening wall (.6). Move right and up onto the head wall. Continue in a fine position along the dyke to the rim (.7). This route makes a nice finish to the Squamish Buttress. 176 Whatever 10c/d #3 SPORT (p2) 2p John Howe, 2002 Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move left to a prominent flaky scoop. Climb the left wall steeply to the rim (10a). 177 Ladies First * John Howe, 2002 SPORT 10a #4 (p2) (possibly WELFARE DAZE; Peder Ourom, Jim Brennan; 1982) 2p Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move left to a prominent flaky scoop. Climb the scoop and up left past a small flake. Continue to the rim (10a). This is the recommended finish to Stairway to Heaven (page 238) 178 Sisulu ** 10b #5 SPORT (p2) 2p Tony McLane, Kevin McLane; June 2004 A fine sustained route. Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move right onto the dyke then go straight up to reach a distinct, left-trending ramp. After a few moves, head straight for the rim (10b). 179 Grace * 10a #3 (p2) unknown, but prior to 1992. Refers to Grace Wong, who died climbing on the Chief in 1991. 2p Climb the first pitch of Joe’s Dyke (.6). Move right onto the dyke, follow it until beneath an appealing line marked by large pockets. Climb directly to the rim. GRAND WALL RAVEN’S CASTLE © Kevin McLane 2010 BELLYGOOD INTRO 241 www.highcol.ca CHIEF INTRO/MAP 202 CHIEF PHOTOS 207–217 © Kevin McLane 2010 GRAND WALL RAVEN’S CASTLE www.highcol.ca