Marine Habitat Magazine Issue #6
Transcription
Marine Habitat Magazine Issue #6
SAVE OUR REEFS – 5p from every magazine sold goes directly to marine conservation RO vs TAP WATER Dr Nick Bryan dispels some myths about the use of tap water in the marine aquarium FINAL PART BREEDING FAILURES TOP OF THE ROCKS £2.75 Issue 06 Nov-Dec 2011 Matt Pedersen wraps up the series with the unfortunate failures of his diverse breeding projects Ever thought of stocking your very own anemone? Tristan Lougher counts down those anemones that may be ideal for your home aquarium CLASS OF THE WRASSE Scott Michael looks at the problems and benefits of having the handy Cleaner Wrasse sweep up around the home aquarium ALSO INSIDE THIS ISSUE: Expert Advice Your Ultimate Species Guide by John Clipperton False Eye Secrets by John Dawes Fragging Xenia by Jason Thresher Filtration Part 4 by Bob Goemans Gear Guide Shop Profiles Hobbyist Profile by The Salty Box Aquarium Profile Paris by Iggy Tavares WIN this complete JBL ProFlora CO 2 system – worth over £600! 001_Cover_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 19:19:43 The Ultimate Reefkeeping Experience Red Sea MAX S-SERIES The Ultimate Full Size Plug & Play Coral Reef System Up to 650 Liters The Max S-Series is an innovative plug & play, complete, full size coral reef aquarium system. It is designed to allow you to focus on the beauty and diversity of your own piece of coral reef, rather than worrying about component selection, suitability and compatibility. Max S-Series aquariums are fully equipped with everything you need including features such as ultra clear glass, reef spec lighting ,protein skimming and filtration, an automatic water top-up system and a one plug control panel. 400 Liter 500 Liter 650 Liter Make your Max S unique by choosing from a variety of six modern colours. All external surfaces have an elegant and durable finish and can be easily replaced on an operational aquarium should you wish to change colors at any time. Pearl Anthracite Black Ultra Marine metallic Merlot metallic Silver metallic For more info email: [email protected] | www.redseafish.com Untitled-1 1 www.redseafish.com 30/10/2011 12:11:35 CONTENTS Issue 06 November/December 44 Gear Guide 4 Editorial Dave Pitt and Andy Gascoigne Gear Guide Revealed section gives you a quick rundown on loads of useful and interesting products. Andy provides an update on his diving course and a close is drawn to the first year of Marine habitat magazine. 46 Gear Guide Revealed TMC 7 Breeding Failures Matt Pedersen The last part of what has been a fantastically informative and educational series, covering every part of the breeding process. In part 6, Matt takes the rare opportunity to shed some light on the failure’s experienced along the way. 13 Expert Advice November/December 2011 With our panel of experts at the ready, why not send in your questions? In this issue they cover issues about pH, additives, white sponges and struggling inverts. If you have a question, please send it to us. Publisher Fish Junkies Ltd., PO BOX 4838, Sheffield S12 9DU [email protected] 19 Cleaner Wrasse Scott Michael In true Scott form, this article gives a very in depth understanding of one of the most common species found in hobbyist tanks to day. Main cover image courtesy of Tristan Lougher. Issue 06 Editor-in-Chief (Joint) Andy Gascoigne and Dave Pitt Managing Editor Dave Pitt [email protected] Creative Director Andy Gascoigne [email protected] Web and Marketing Manager Chris Arthur [email protected] Copy Editor Lynda Glover [email protected] Circulation, Advertising and Finance Dave Pitt (Circulation and Finance) [email protected] Maria Grogan (Advertising) [email protected] This Issue’s Contributors Bob Goemans, Jason Thresher, Jenny Lowman, John Clipperton, John Dawes, Levi Major, Matt Pedersen, Maria Grogan, Matthew Pentith, Nick Bryan, Philippe Poppe, Tristan Lougher, Scott Michael. This time in Gear Guide we take a look at the TMC V2O3Zone Ozone Generator. 48 Myth Busters - Tap Water Dr Nick Bryan Controversial this may be, but Nick gives us a very interesting view on the use of tap water in a marine aquarium. 50 Shop Profiles 25 Your Ultimate Species Guide John Clipperton In this issue’s Ultimate Species Guide, John looks at the Regal Tang, Emerald Crab and the Trumpet Coral. In our support for the local fish shop (LFS), but also to encourage them to support the hobbyists, our unique shop profile section may just be of interest. Don’t miss out on your £10 OFF voucher! 52 News Roundup Get up to date with some of the latest news from around the world, brought to you by marinehabitatmagazine.com 55 Hobbyist Profile The Salty Box In this issue, we feature the lovely Jenny Lowman, or as many of you may know her on the forum, Jennybugs. Jenny takes us through her home sea zoo where the tanks most certainly rule the house. 31 Top of the Rocks – Anemone’s Tristan Lougher For many people the appeal of a sea anemone hosting a pair of anemonefish might be the initial attraction that tempts them into the hobby. For issue 6, Tristan gives us his top 10 anemone’s, including some that host and some that don’t. 58 Competition JBL 36 NEW False Eye Secrets John Dawes Welcoming a brand new contributor, John will treat you to some fascinating insights over the coming issues. It would be safe to say that there’s more to ocelli than meets the eye and in this issue, Johns kick off his new column with some False Eye Secrets. 61 Aquarium Profile – Paris 38 Fragging – Xenia Jason Thresher In this issue, there will be one very lucky winner. JBL have very kindly provided their complete ProFlora m1003 system, plus electrode (probe) and also their pH-controller. Make sure you check out the competition page for more details. Iggy Tavares Palais de la Porte Dorée, the Palace of the Golden Gate in Paris, with architecture based on an Art Deco model, was built for the Paris Colonial Exhibition in 1931 and has had a Tropical Aquarium from its inception. Iggy visits, and tells all. Jason gives us the next step-by-step instalment of how to go about fragging. This time its Pulsating Xenia on the chopping board. 41 Filtration – Part 4 Bob Goemans Bob brings this insightful series to a close. This article as a whole really is a must read for every hobbyist, and so if you’re only just joining us, it’s worth sourcing back copies and reading this whole piece. SEE SUBSCRIPTIONS ON PAGE 60 Join us on Facebook or Twitter now Whilst Fish Junkies thoroughly checks the accuracy of all incoming content, Fish Junkies Ltd. will not be held responsible for any inaccuracies within supplied content. All rights reserved. No part of Marine Habitat may be reproduced in any way without prior written consent from Fish Junkies Ltd. Copyright 2011 by Fish Junkies Ltd. Printed in the UK by The Magazine Printing Company using only paper from FSC/PEFC suppliers www.magprint.co.uk Registered Office: Fish Junkies Ltd., Hart Shaw Building, Europa Link, Sheffield Business Park, Sheffield, South Yorkshire S9 1XU. Company No: 7349873. Registered in England & Wales 003_Contents_MH006.indd 2 RED SEA COMPETITON WINNERS 1st prize – Wahaj Mahmood, Leicester Runners up – Darren Hutchinson, Barrow in Furness Peter Biggs, Swindon Scott Bendall-Jones, Leyland -–3 30/10/2011 19:46:20 WEL C O M E TO W ell, it’s issue six and the last issue of Marine Habitat’s first year as a printed magazine publication... can you believe it, we can’t! A little over a year a go, we made the decision to produce and launch a brand new magazine knowing that it wasn’t going to be easy, and a year down the line, it’s safe to say that that was an understatement. Sourcing, organising, and pulling together the content to fill all those pages is most certainly a challenge, especially given that we had never previously done anything of the sort, and we both have to work full-time as well. Throughout the first year we’ve really grown as a publication, through two-page count increases, a number of new sections, an ever-increasing number of subscribers, support from stockists, interest and buy-in from manufacturers, and generally a gain in overall confidence and trust from everyone exposed to the magazine. Going forward is very exciting for us, because we have so much planned that we know the readers are going to love, and we cannot wait to start rolling them out. Now is a great time to be involved with Marine Habitat, because over the next year we hope to take you on a journey with us, which will make a difference to you and the hobby in general, and also, in a small way, make a difference to the conservation efforts that we continue to support. the board has been immensely positive, which means that we’ve achieved our aim. We aren’t looking for money or fame from this, what we want most of all is to produce a resource that readers enjoy and find helpful, and hopefully it will help to grow the hobby over time. DAVE: In each issue, you will no doubt have noticed that we include a longer than average editorial, and we do this to help try to connect with you and provide an insight into the people behind the magazine. We want to bring hobbyists together, so we hope you enjoy our little stories and adventures. Something we want to encourage further is interaction from the readers; we want to know what you think about the hobby, the magazine, the website, your tank, your questions – absolutely anything marine-related. You can contact us directly via the contacts page on the website, via email to: [email protected] or by post: PO BOX 4838, Sheffield S12 9DU. If you’re setting up a new tank and you’ve got 50 questions, then send us them all; alternatively, if you’ve got something more specialised that you are unsure about, give us a challenge. Either way, we’ll do our best to source the answers. ANDY: As you may remember, back in issue 3, for my birthday, I went on a Try-Dive with my local diving school. Since that ANDY: The first year has Try-Dive, I’ve been eager most certainly not been to get my hair wet and without its downs; for undertake a PADI course. example, PCs breaking just Immediately following at the wrong time, being my Try-Dive, I didn’t have let down right at the last much time to look into minute, and the many, diving because I was tied many nights we’ve worked up with preparing the next SCUBA diving is quite easy to learn. Have faith in your instructors and you’ll pass the course in no time at all! through the early hours to issue. Then, one day at get the magazine finished work I had a few bleeps and printed on time. However, taking all this into on the iPhone, and decided to check through my account, we have both thoroughly enjoyed it. It’s emails. There was one particular email that caught been interesting, exciting, and a massive learning my eye: ‘Groupon – Become a SCUBA Diver, only curve, but most of all, it’s been ultimately satisfying £99.’ I instantly opened up the email and saw because the feedback we’ve received from across straightaway that it wasn’t one of those ‘too good to be true’ offers. I couldn’t send my missus a text message quick enough to get her approval and see if she wanted in, and, of course, she said yes. The money was paid and a few days later we drove up to the South Yorkshire Diving Academy in Rotherham (www.divingacademy.co.uk). We were greeted by Donna, who was to be our instructor for the whole course. This initial visit was to introduce ourselves and understand how the course works, and book our theory test day – YES – theory test! We were given a PADI pack, which consisted of a diver manual, dive planner, diver’s log, and training record, and some PADI promo stuff. We booked our test date for August, which gave us about 3 weeks to read the book and take in as much information as possible. The manual consisted of around 260 pages, of which I had to read 180 pages. I must admit, as far as tests go, I’m hopeless. It took me three attempts to pass my driving theory, so I wasn’t particularly looking forward to this test, because if I didn’t pass it, then I couldn’t go any further in the course. No pressure then! The book was fairly easygoing, but still quite intense on the brain. Each section had questions to fill in as you went along, and then a main test at the end of the sections. This made the learning so much easier and helped it all sink in. There were also a couple of DVDs to help with the learning, but they were very basic and the book needed to be read. Armed with my newfound knowledge, it was soon test day. Donna went through the sections to make sure we fully understood them, and she answered any questions we had. Then it was test time, with a multiple choice-style test paper. The questions were easy enough, but in true exam style, they were a bit confusing, with many of the questions having a number of correct answers. We marked the questions ourselves, and spoke up if we’d got one wrong. We could only get so many wrong in each section, otherwise it would mean a retest. I was one question off a retest, and breathed a sigh of relief when the final question was correct. Next up – DRY SUIT! This was, how shall I say – interesting. I felt like a vacuum-packed gimp ready for a long night in! We needed these to keep us warm and dry for the coming weeks when we 4–004-005_Editorial_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 18:38:34 Editorial - Marine Habitat Although this is only a stock image of someone SCUBA diving, it helps represent the visual difficulties of the murky water as were similar to this picture. would do our final dive exams. So for now it was just a fitting session for later use. The following weekend came, and it was time to jump in the local swimming pool to start the first session of two. I felt really comfortable and raring to go. It was quite weird and funny at the time, because Donna (our dive instructor) went through the whole session talking about what we were going to do, and explaining the actions for when we were underwater. Now, as you may or may not know, you cannot talk underwater, and suddenly we were chucked into a game of charades while we were going through each skill; removing the mask, clearing the mask, and finding an alternate air source, etc. Everything is exaggerated underwater because there’s no sound. Every time we completed a task, we were congratulated with handshakes, and Donna would sport a little dance that you couldn’t help but laugh at. The week after was our final training day, and this time we had to get back into our gimp outfits (dry suits). This time was totally different though, as we had all the gear on and it made it quite uncomfortable. I was literally sweating gallons because of the warmth in the swimming baths, combined with the fact I was all rubbered up. In we went, and this time we learnt all the ‘dive buddy’ (PADI term for diving friend/partner) techniques. This involved switching to a buddy’s alternate air supply, emergency ascends, pulling a tired diver, and so on. Then we had a nice swim around the pool to try to master our buoyancy control and flipper control. This all went fantastically well, and we were feeling confident about the next week’s final, which was to take place in a local lake in Doncaster called The Blue Lagoon (www.divebluelagoon.com). On the final day, I did have a little bit of nerves, probably because this time it was a lake and not a controlled clean swimming pool. It was a lovely place, specially made into a scuba training facility. There were many underwater features for the more advanced learners, such as a tank, artillery, aircraft and boats. This time though, we were there to pass the course and not so much for the sightseeing. The weather didn’t seem too bad; the sun was poking through the clouds, with a light wind pushing the tide towards our corner of the lake. Suited and booted, my girlfriend Jane, three instructors and I made our way to the shore. We swam out to the buoy where we were going to descend and start the diving tasks that we had previously learned in the swimming pool. We descended to a platform 5m down and then performed our skills; this was a test to show that we could do it in deeper water. The water was very murky, with visibility down to around 4m. This meant we couldn’t really see anything. Our first task was to clear our masks; we would let water in and then clear it out whilst 5m underwater. I did this and then it was Jane’s turn. The combination of having my eyes closed, clearing my mask, and the murky water meant that I couldn’t see much to focus on, and my breathing became gasping and I started to panic a little. Despite my efforts to concentrate on my breathing and calm down, I had to ascend to recompose myself. This was a big blow to my confidence. I was annoyed with myself because I had previously done very well in the pool, easily completing all the tasks with little effort. The instructors at this point were brilliant; they helped calm me down and were constantly reminding me why I wanted to dive. They told me to imagine all the fish and corals out there in their natural habitat, and at that moment it all became crystal-clear. I gritted my teeth and signalled the thumbs down to get back on the bottom. From then on it was a walk in the park, and I completed the rest of the skills without a problem. We performed another dive an hour later, to complete all our skills to pass the course. With some air left in our tanks we did a 10-minute swim around our area of the lake. We didn’t see any fish, but we swam over the various up and down terrain, and it was at that moment that I started really enjoying the diving experience. Despite just seeing the mounds of weed, I knew that in a coral-rich environment, this could be some of the best sights of my life. That concluded my dive training, and now as a PADI qualified diver, I’m really looking forward to the salty adventures that hopefully lie ahead. I’d better get saving those pennies now! DAVE: Now let’s have a look at this particular issue. First and foremost, I am very pleased to welcome a new contributor, John Dawes. We are launching a new series of articles, in which John will discuss a different subject matter each issue. In his first instalment, he looks at the secrets behind false fish eyes; however, you’ll have to wait to find out what he’s got in store for further issues. John is actually from Gibraltar, but now lives in Spain. With over 25 years’ marine experience, he’s had numerous aquaria along the way, and some of his specialist areas include ecology, evolution, and fish behaviour. In addition, it’s the last of Matt’s fantastic, detailed, and enlightening series on the subject of breeding. Throughout the six issues to date, Matt has taken us from the very beginning right through to the raising of baby fish, and if breeding is ever something you might consider doing, this whole series is an absolute must-read. Although this feature has come to an end, don’t panic, because Matt isn’t going anywhere – he has much more in store for the coming year. ANDY: A quick note re the species profiles. Remember that we feature these in every issue; there are a minimum of three, but on occasions, as in the last issue, we may give you a boost. These are a fantastic resource for looking back on and are well worth keeping. You have the option to keep the printed version, but they are also all downloadable in full from the website, and you don’t have to pay or register, or even enter any information, to get them. 2011 has provided you with 22 profiles, and there are many more to come. Finally, I want to mention the Expert Advice section, which is a little bigger this time round. A number of subjects are covered, including pH, additives, white sponges, and struggling inverts. DAVE: I have one last thing to tell you, and it concerns the cover price. Obviously, for our first year, this has been incredibly low, at only £2.75 per copy. As previously mentioned, this year has seen an increase in page count, which not only means higher printing costs, but also further cost of content to fill the pages. With this in mind, we will be increasing the cover price starting from issue 7. We hope that you understand and support this decision. From all of us behind the scenes at Fish Junkies Ltd., publishers of Marine Habitat, thank you very much for a fantastic first year! We couldn’t have done it without you. Dave & Andy -–5 004-005_Editorial_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 18:38:37 http://www.facebook.com/ntlabs http://twitter.com/#!/OfficialNTLabs Untitled-1 1 11/10/2011 00:07:04 FAILURE Marine Breeder - Matt Pedersen “If you’re breeding marine fish, it’s inevitable!” MATT PEDERSEN Age: In my 30s Hometown: Chicago, IL, USA Full-time occupation: Interactive software developer Marine experience: 23yrs Aquarium size: Multiple aquaria totalling 300 US gallons Favourite fish: Too many to mention coral: Hot Pink Birdsnest (Seriatopora hystrix) other: Nudibranch (Elysia diomedia) Specialist areas: Marine fish breeding Matt Pedersen concludes his final part to the breeding series with the unfortunate failures he’s had. Even when everything is done by the book, marine fish breeding can be one of the most difficult endeavours you’ll face in the hobby. T here’s simply no way around it. Every aquarist, no matter how experienced, will fail now and again. However, many will never admit to it. Problems and failures are all too often met with a condescending response from peers. I don’t believe many prominent aquarists are inclined to talk about their utter catastrophes; after all, what is the general public going to think of some well-known aquarist who crashes his tank or accidentally kills a bunch of fish? Publishers would much rather devote the printed page to stories about successes and breakthroughs, not what didn’t work out. This is an article I’ve wanted to write for some time, an entire piece about what didn’t work. I doubt you’ll see another story like this again very soon, but thanks to the open-minded editors of Marine Habitat, I’m finally able to share the hard truths about being a marine fish breeder. I will examine each of my personal failures, but remember, many of these failures could one day turn out to be simply necessary obstacles that lead to another success story. The Fathead or Sunburst Anthias (Serranocirrhitus latus) did not live up to its perceived aggressive tendencies towards members of the same species. Starting with a large and one or two smaller specimens could result in a compatible grouping, and perhaps you could be the first to spawn this species in captivity. I must state that failure as a result of irresponsible care by a negligent or reckless aquarist is not acceptable. There is a great burden of responsibility to thoroughly research any project. Still, in the marine fish breeding world, learning on the job is commonplace. Even with the best planning, breeding efforts don’t always work out the way you intend. A failure, regardless of how it happened, is always a failure, but what’s most important is to figure out why we failed, and then share those hard-learned lessons with our fellow aquarists. In this way, even a complete tragedy offers some redeeming merit. BREEDING PROJECTS, MINUS THE BREEDING PART For me, the most frustrating breeding projects have been the projects that never resulted in a spawn. Even those aquarists with decades of experience under their belts can become victim to the most fundamental day-to-day issues such as disease or aggression. When looking at this list, I ask myself, “Surely I am better than this?”, but no, these really were my mistakes and failures. PEARLY JAWFISH Pearly Jawfish, Opistignathos aurifrons, are mouthbrooders that are very occasionally reared in captivity. We still don’t know if you can reliably sex this species or not, but here in the US, that doesn’t matter because wild-collected pairs are available from divers in Florida. The main stumbling block with this species is a suggested short natural lifespan and, as Martin Moe suspects, a strong seasonal influence on breeding behaviour. I started with a wild pair, and had the unfortunate experience of having one of the pair jump fairly early in the process. Of course, it bears mentioning that the aquarium was completely covered, the fish being found dried up on the surface of a sponge – the only dry surface in the tank. I had the opportunity to get a captive-bred specimen from Martin Moe’s rebreeding of the species, only to have that fish perform the same suicide as the predecessor. A further attempt at repairing suggested that perhaps I had two fish of the same sex! FATHEAD ANTHIAS The Fathead Anthias, Serranocirhittus latus, is a fish that enthralls me. Being somewhere inbetween the Hawkfish and the more typical Anthias, it was safe to assume it would be haremic, but unlike the typical Anthias (and more like a Hawkfish) there isn’t any sexual dichromatism between males and females. Given what I had read, it was suggested that this species would be better kept in a one-per-tank scenario unless a large tank was provided. I purchased three fish, one larger and two smaller, and despite the warnings of other authors, I succeeded in establishing a trio in a 24-gallon nanocube. The trio lasted about a year, until a virulent disease struck one of the specimens. It started as a few tufted scales, and within 24 hours would spread to be a large red open sore. Shortly thereafter, a dead fish would result. This disease wound up killing all three specimens in the span of a month or two, and as best as I’ve been able to determine with the help of my peers, it was either hemorrhagic septecimia, or the marine parasite Uronema. Since the tank these fish resided in was heavily fed and stocked, I can only assume that disease was brought on by the aquarium equivalent of a damp, warm, crowded room. In other words, I probably needed to step up my water changes. -–7 007-011_Breeding_MH006.indd 2 31/10/2011 18:20:13 Marine Breeder - Matt Pedersen BUTTERFLYFISH When they showed up one day at 50% of their normally very expensive asking price, the Masked, Hooded, or Red Headed Butterflyfish, Chaetodon larvatus, was just one of those fish I had to try. After all, I had succeeded with Oxymonacanthus longirostris. If I could keep one SPS eater alive, why not another? Well it turned out that minced squid was the go-to food for this species, and within a couple weeks of introduction to a wellestablished reef tank, I had a pair that was looking very optimistic. While there was some aggression, it wasn’t as bad as I’d seen in other butterflyfish species. But I paid a hefty price – on the theory that these fish are sensitive and susceptible to stress, they were not quarantined, but instead placed straight into a reef tank. In the end, what did these fish in was not starvation, but an outbreak of Cryptcaryon (Marine Ich). I had to take every last fish out of the reef tank and place it in a large hospital tank for treatment with Cupramine (a copper medication). The smaller of the pair didn’t survive the initial outbreak, but the larger one did. Eventually, I returned it to the reef, only to have the larger one break out with Cryptocaryon again. Back to a hospital treatment tank it went, but the second time around I was travelling (I travel for work occasionally, but also to go speak at aquarium clubs. You can’t not go simply because a fish is sick). I could not give the fish daily personal care. It was on its deathbed by the time I returned from my travels. Most recently I attempted to establish a group of the Auriga Butterflyfish (Chaetodon auriga). An online vendor was offering five very small juvenile specimens at a very inexpensive price, a deal too good to pass up given that I already had an order coming. Of course, the day before shipping, only three of the small ones were still available, but more had been collected. I asked the seller to simply send the five smallest they had. What I got was three juveniles, and two fish the size of my hand. I was very lucky that I had some tank space in a larger tank, as I had not expected such large fish at all. The three juveniles went into a 24-gallon tank, the two larger ones into a 37. I had hoped to have a larger group that would spread aggression around, but my three juveniles quickly became two (I think the smallest got chased into an anemone and became lunch) and the larger two were stuck together as well. It didn’t happen on the first night, but by evening on the second day, in both the small and large pairs I observed significant amounts of aggression, and any hope of having compatible The Bristletail Filefish (Acreichthys tomentosus) is now a well-known eliminator of pest anemones and was first successfully bred by Iris Bönig. A great candidate for breeding because its useful and wild specimens can suffer from shipping stresses and seem prone to bacterial infections. The Hooded or Masked Butterflyfish (Chaetodon larvatus) from the Red Sea is a known coralivore in the wild, and has a proven reputation for impossibility in captivity. Ironically, it wasn’t feeding that proved their undoing - just good old-fashioned Ich (Cryptocaryonosis). pairs of similar-sized fish was lost. The aggression in the small pair got to the point that I had to separate the two fish, for both were starving despite being heavily fed (too much energy being expended in the aggression). The larger fish quarrelled constantly, with one breaking out in Lymphocystis, and then a couple of weeks’ later Ich reared its ugly head again. While I am confident that I can restore all four fish to good health, they represent a breeding project I’ve already given up on due to the aggression I’m seeing. I’ll be forced to find each fish a new home now. The above Butterflyfish experiences illustrate the classic mistakes of impulse purchases combined with overconfidence. Spur of the moment, impulse projects, on deals that are too good to pass up are a very, very bad idea, even if you think you’re prepared for it. I’ve had much better luck when truly planning ahead for Butterflyfish. I could easily continue to talk about three more species of Butterflies that are currently ‘non-spawned failures’ in one way or another (Chaetodon collare, C. capistratus and C. striatus), but I think I’d be repeating myself. There’s a pattern to be seen here. Difficulty in feeding and susceptibility to disease are already trademarks of many Butterflyfish species, but based on my collective experience, aggression within individuals of the same species to the point of causing death is a very real possibility in most species. Of course, these difficulties are some of the very same reasons why I look at these fish as my next impossible frontier to overcome – and I haven’t even alluded to the level of difficulty anticipated in larval rearing. FILEFISH While I’m well known for my success in spawning and rearing the expert-only Harlequin Filefish (Oxymonacanthus longirostris), the Bristletail Filefish, Acreitchtys tomentosus, is my bane. For all my efforts with multiple pairs in multiple tanks, I have simply never observed a spawning. Establishing broodstock was difficult at first, as this is another fish that seems prone to breaking down after shipping. Make it past the initial stress of shipping, and they’re usually pretty solid, although multiple aspiring breeders have reported broodstock problems with bacterial infections. In the end, what did this species in for me was when I was down to my last pair (lost some in the same move from Chicago). It turned out that the pair was two males, and when one got aggressive and nippy, well, game over for everyone. I’m now working with a pair of the rare, related Acriecthys radiatus instead. CLOWNFISH There have been a few clownfish that wound up being trouble. The first was the Blue Stripe Clownfish, Amphiprion chrysopterus. These have a deplorable track record in the chain of custody. Of course, the one time I tried this species, I had a pair of juveniles held in quarantine for weeks before even being shipped to me. They arrived in what appeared to be perfect condition, and yet the pair of fish was dead within 30 minutes of acclimation while all other fish acclimated without incident. I have never tried again! The related African Allardi Clownfish, A. allardi, shares the awesome look of an adult Blue Stripe, and has stunning babies to boot (baby Blue Stripes are the very definition of ‘ugly ducklings’). Allardi Clowns are prone to Brooklynella in the chain of custody, but I’ve managed to avoid that. What I haven’t managed to avoid is this clown’s extreme susceptibility to Amyloodnium (Marine Velvet). In all honesty, I have lost count of how many Allardi I have purchased, kept for weeks or months, only to have them break out with Amyloodinium and die. Breakdowns always seem to happen when these fish are placed in reef tanks. When keeping this species in a barren QT or breeding-type setup, 8–007-011_Breeding_MH006.indd 3 31/10/2011 18:20:20 Marine Breeder - Matt Pedersen A sub-adult Allardi Clownfish (Amphiprion allardi) demonstrates the blue stripes associated with the adult form. Mature Allardi are every bit as dazzling as their cousins, the Blue Stripe Clownfish (A. chrysopterus). I’ve seemed to avoid Amyloodinum. I am more determined than ever to breed this species, and once again have a pair established. This time they will stay in the barren QT setup and never leave. I rest assured that my first batch of captive-bred Allardis will probably far outnumber the many I’ve lost, so as long as I’m able to accomplish that goal, I’ll be on the good side of this species. Another difficult clownfish species was the Papua New Guinea Yellow-Chested Saddleback, Amphiprion polymnus. I initially received two, only to have them die from Brooklynella very quickly. Later on, I managed to get a second pair of smaller juveniles on a special order. These fared far better – until the female killed the male without warning. With exports from Papua New Guinea having been offline for several months in 2011, I had no prospects of finding a replacement mate, so the lone fish was sold off. MANY OTHER NONSTARTERS It continues to go on like this. I paired up Firefish, Nemateleotris magnifica, by observing the behaviours and interactions within a group at a shop for about an hour. Had them for at least a year or two, but never saw eggs or encountered babies. One of the pair jumped, and there ends that breeding project. Yasha Hase Goby, Stonogobiops yasha? Got a pair, only to lose one right away. The mate lived for a few years but I never managed to bring myself to repair the specimen. Warpaint Gobies, Gobiodon atrangulatus, have proven to be deplorable shippers. Out of the eight I’ve obtained, six died within days of arrival. I thought I finally had them nailed down, as I had a compatible pair that was healthy, active and alert. In just the last couple of days as I write this, I found both of them dead, on the same day, without a logical explanation. They shared a system with dozens of other Clown Gobies, and they all remain fine - a completely unexplained pair of deaths. Of course, I’ve found that Clown Gobies in general may not be the easily-paired bidirectionalhermaphrodites they’re cracked up to be; the Black Clown Gobies, G. ceramensis, would like nothing more than to kill each other. The same could also be said for the two Citron Gobies, G. cinctus, that I had, even though they very clearly appear to be a male and a female. In my fishroom, fish that don’t get along generally get sold or given to other aquarists if I reach the point of giving up due to no expectation of the situation to change. Several years back, I had three Royal Grammas, Gramma loreto, exhibiting all the signs of prespawn behaviour with the male actively digging and preparing a nest with branches of macro algae. All it took was an Amyloodinum outbreak (happened to be one of the several I experienced with my aforementioned Allardi Clownfish), and they were all dead in a couple days. Disease also plagued my efforts with Chromis retrofasciata. Again, I personally suspect them to be sensitive shippers and perhaps prone to disease – out of nine I’ve ordered, as well as a few that have gone to friends, none lasted more than a few weeks, and I’d say the vast majority didn’t last more than a couple days. The culprit seems to be my good ‘old nemesis Uronema. If I ever try this species again, it will have to undergo prophylactic treatments for this disease. Early disease has even stalled my efforts with trying to establish the Tailspot Blenny, Ecsenius stigmatura. The male in the pair lasted a whopping 3 days, whereupon some crazy disease started at his tail, progressed up his body, and in 24 hours killed him. I can only assume this was some sort of bacterial issue. The female remained 100% healthy. I’ve tried Clearer Wrasses (Labroides dimidiatus) but found that in small tanks (i.e. < 25 gallons), aggression ensures you’ll never form a pair. If you start with small, healthy Cleaner Wrasses, I personally have had fair luck getting them established in captivity (My oldest has lived for 5 years now, and I know other hobbyists may have that record beat). More than one hobbyist has spawned this species too. Aggression in mates is simply something that can be tough to deal with in small tanks, but having the appropriate mate sizes is equally problematic. The reputedly difficult Bicolor Angelfish, Centropyge bicolor, didn’t give me any care problems. I started with two small juveniles and they settled into captivity immediately. However, I suspect it was the fact that they were similarly sized that helped ensure they would refuse to ever commiserate as a pair. Introductions between the two specimens were always downright vicious. I suspect if I had obtained a third, much larger specimen, and used a larger aquarium than 25-gallons, I might have been able to establish a spawning trio without all the aggression. But in the end, the fish had to simply be sold off. I didn’t have the same problem with the Flame Angelfish, Centropyge loricula. I had a pair that was compatible for several weeks, but one day, the smaller one just turned up dead. I am truly stumped by this one as there was never any observed aggression, however, I have never been able to rule out murder, a similar situation to what happened with my PNG Saddleback Clownfish. If you haven’t had enough of the fish that haven’t spawned, I think the ultimate bonehead, completely my fault failure, was with my pair of Linear Blennies, Ecsenius lineatus. I truly believe they were spawning, as they would show colour changes indicative of courtship, and were certainly the epitome of healthy, happy fish. Of course, among all the bad things that happened in my arguably well-planned move from Chicago, I simply accidentally crushed the female of the pair with a live rock. “The Black Clown Gobies, G. ceramensis, would like nothing more than to kill each other” THE MAIN CAUSES OF BREEDING FAILURES AND HEARTACHE BROODSTOCK AGGRESSION Marine fish are often fairly intolerant of members of the same species, making the formation of pairs or colonies a sometimes treacherous proposition – be ready to intervene if aggression goes beyond bluff and posturing. Many marine fish lack obvious sexual dimorphism / dichromatism, which further makes pairing simply a gamble – are these two fish failing to get along because they’re the same sex? Sometimes fish must be carefully introduced, while other times no amount of time and effort will make the two fish get along. Even when things are going right, you may still have a dominant fish turn on its subordinate mate and kill it without warning after months or even years of coexistence. DISEASE Even when you’re doing everything right, new or sensitive broodstock always brings the risk of disease. No doubt, the added stress of being paired in close quarters may further elevate disease risks, especially if pairs are quarrelling. Do not skip quarantine and hospital tanks as a breeder, and be sure to keep a supply of basic medications on hand if you plan on having many broodstock systems running. You never know when having the right medication in a timely fashion may make a difference. JUMPING Seriously, many marine fish are prone to jumping anyways, but when you also factor in the fish doing nightly spawning ascents, the odds of fish finding their way out of tanks, even covered tanks, rises dramatically. Cover, cover, cover every little hole you can (and even then, I’ve still had fish find ways to commit suicide through jumping). LARVAL REARING ISSUES All too often, you beat the odds and get spawns, only to fail at any one of the main critical points along the way. With so many external factors influencing larval successes, we sometimes wonder how we ever rear any marine fish in the first place! While the vast majority of marine fish have never been successfully reared, every year more and more new species are done for the first time. In late 2011, among others, Dr. Matthew L. Wittenrich just succeeded in spawning and rearing the rare Lancer Dragonet, a species with initial first feeding larvae only 1.1mm in length. OPERATOR ERROR Yes, the last cause of breeding failure is your own stupidity and carelessness. I’m talking truly boneheaded moves. Be it crushing perfectly good fish with a piece of live rock or forgetting to put a heater into a hatching tank and killing the eggs (hey, I just did that this week), you will never escape your own errors. Breeders come up with all sorts of ways to idiot-proof things from their own idiocy; everything from tying a string around a finger or leaving something in the doorway of the fishroom, to automating everything they can do. In the end, you’ll figure out your most common oversights and hopefully find a way to compensate! So don’t be overly hard on yourself – we all make mistakes and fail now and again. Learn from it. -–9 007-011_Breeding_MH006.indd 4 31/10/2011 18:20:22 Marine Breeder - Matt Pedersen While I already mentioned a couple, there are many more ‘failures’ in my past and present that may simply be unfinished stories. I’ve reestablished my Starki Damselfish (Chrysiptera starkii) project and things appear to be going well, having recently seen the current female with an extended ovipositor, suggesting that maybe there is spawning that is simply going undetected. Most recently, I’ve succeeded in pairing the Rock Beauty (Holocanthus tricolor), a fish many still believe cannot be kept in captivity for the long term, but also a genus of Angelfish that has proven to be the most difficult to pair in captivity according to John Coppolino. A pair of Harlequin Bass, Serranus tigrinus, consisting of one fish I collected myself, was shipped up with my first Rock Beauty juveniles too, and I wait to see what comes from these supposedly simultaneous hermaphrodites. Numerous clownfish pairs are playing the waiting game in my fishroom, including Fire Clowns (Amphiprion ephippium), Vanuatu Pink Skunk Clowns (A. perideriaon), Wide Banded Clownfish (A. latezonatus), as well as the many Maroon Pairs (Premnas biaculeatus) I am working with at this point. Many who are unfamiliar with marine fish breeding impatiently look at these projects as failures, lacking the understanding that it takes time, often years, for marine fish to reach maturity. WELL, AT LEAST IT SPAWNED Calling these next projects a failure or success just depends on how you measure it. There are many people out there who confuse ‘spawning something’ with ‘breeding something’. In my opinion, only when you’ve reared something from a captively-spawned egg (from captive parents) to a marketable size have you actually succeeded at breeding. Getting marine fish to spawn is often the easy part. So in my world, these are ‘failures’. Accomplishments, yes, but nowhere near my intended goal. Being a former African Cichlid breeder, mouthbrooders like the Cardinalfish grabbed my attention when I started breeding marine fish. Of course, most of the Cardinals are far more difficult than one might expect. First, there was Apogon margaritophorus, the Lattice or Copper Cardinalfish, which spawned like crazy and simply burned out after a while. I never got a successful hatch, partially because I was expecting incubation periods of weeks, not days. Later, when I worked with Apogon (Zoramia) leptacanthus, I managed to collect larvae, and got these to 45 days post-hatch. Many folks will say I reared this fish successfully – I don’t. But I came real close. Ecsenius graveri, the Red Sea Mimic Blenny, is a species I really beat myself up over because the species hasn’t been available for years now. I got lucky and obtained a pair by blindly ordering two fish from an online vendor. I was even more lucky to have them spawn twice, although both times the eggs disappeared within 24 hours. But the worst part is that the pair was given to another hobbyist because they were eating my wife’s corals. They didn’t die, they didn’t kill each other, they simply wore out their welcome with my spouse and were evicted. If only I had kept that pair around somehow. Pseudochromis cyanotaenia, the Blue Bar Dottyback, is another species I came very close with. I reared babies to 29 days post-hatch – very near settlement. A single fish settled, but then The Threadfin, Glass, Longspine or Bluestreak Cardinalfish (Zoramia (Apogon) leptacanthus) is a great schooling fish that can suffer losses in the chain of custody, and therefore makes a great breeding project despite perceived lower values. It is within reach of the determined hobbyist. disappeared. This project ended when the female escaped the safety of her breeding cage where she was normally conditioned between spawns the male killed her in an hour. Unable to find more of this species, the male was sold off, but later availability on a sibling species, Pseudochromis coccinicaudua, the Orangetail Dottyback, encouraged me to try again. Of course, ruthless mate behaviour sabotaged my efforts not once, but twice. After creating a male/female pair from 2 males, the female was introduced to the male, who killed her almost instantly. Some months later, a replacement female was located. After the male dished out some pretty severe beatings, the pair was separated. Upon reintroduction, the new female apparently sought revenge on the male for his abuse, and his guilt in murdering the first female. In the ultimate example of what goes around, comes around, the second female killed the murderous male overnight. The frustration with Dottybacks doesn’t end with the Blue-Bar/Surge/Orangetail species complex. Despite being readily available and downright cheap, Pseudochromis bitaeniatus (the Double Stripe Dottyback) stole my heart the first time I saw it. I’ve gotten one larva to settlement only to have it vanish. This pair still spawns, but I can’t seem to get a good hatch. I always seem to botch artificial incubation, resulting in dead eggs. Admittedly, frustration has set in, with spawns being more sporadic and failure taking its toll on my interest. Elacatinus oceanops, the Neon Goby, represents a project initially thwarted when a newlyimported wild-caught pair immediately broke out with Ich – one perished in 24 hours, the other lived for months. More recently, I established two pairs from a group of seven wild-caught individuals. At the time of writing, one pair has spawned, the smallest specimen jumped when moved into a new tank, and the larger fish in the second pair died mysteriously, leaving me with five fish in total, only two of which form a pair. The species became my 24th to spawn, and if I’m lucky, it may finally bring me into the double digits on successfully reared species. My work with dragonets is arguably what first gained me notoriety among my peers. After working out reliable husbandry protocols for keeping dragonets on prepared foods in small tanks, the effectiveness of these techniques “This project ended when the female escaped the safety of her breeding cage where she was normally conditioned between spawns the male killed her in an hour” was proven with dozens, or even hundreds, of documented spawns. Synchiropus splendidus, the Green Mandarin, was the first species I worked with and also the one I found the most success with. I made it to between 10-14 days post-hatch, which is near settlement, and perhaps if I had tried just a little longer, I probably could have turned this into a success story. The remaining dragonet species, including Spotted Mandarinfish (Synchiropus picturatus), Red Scooter Blenny (S. stellatus), and the Scooter Blenny (S. ocellatus) were all fish that I spawned and hatched as well, but never managed to rear to settlement. In the end, the biggest problem I’ve had with all my dragonets is that sooner or later, someone ends up on the floor during an over-enthusiastic late-night spawning rise. Yes, even in what you think are well-covered tanks, healthy, actively spawning dragonets are extremely prone to jumping. The Rusty Goby, Priolepis hipoliti, was a fish that I only knew was spawning because I’d randomly discover hatches while collecting Mandarin eggs. The babies were significantly smaller than those of the Greenbanded Goby (Elacatinus multifaciatus) and I never managed to rear any. All the Rusty Goby larvae would die within 24 hours of collection. Of course, my broodstock pair was also killed when I used a ‘reef-safe’ ich medication to try to treat the same Amyloodinium outbreak that also killed my Royal Grammas and a pair of Allardi clownfish. I can say with some certainty that I have never found a reef-safe parasite medication, but I am convinced I’ve found a reef-safe medication that will easily kill scaleless marine fish such as 10–007-011_Breeding_MH006.indd 5 31/10/2011 18:20:24 Marine Breeder - Matt Pedersen The Double Stripe Dottyback (Pseudochromis bitaeniatus) has rapidly become one of my personal favourites. While not gaudy like many more popular marine fish, these guys paired up quickly and also spawned quickly. While my experience is limited to just the one pair, they are not nearly as aggressive with each other as many other dottybacks can be. these Gobies, and Mandarins. Chromis viridis, the Green Chromis, was a project I inherited from a fellow hobbyist who gave me a very old, actively spawning trio (1m / 2f). The best I’ve done is to get larvae to live 6 days post, hatch. As old age apparently took the broodstock one by one, I frankly lost interest in trying! Neopomacentrus cf. nemurus was a frustrating project. I obtained these fish as assorted damselfish, and wound up with two males and one female. They were stunning little damsels, small at maturity, and were content to live in relative peace in a 20-gallon aquarium full of live rock. While not even out of quarantine, they spawned but I failed to collect larvae. When I tried to replace a spawning rock with a tile, it caused the nest to be moved and I never saw it again. I was really hoping to work with these fish, but I suspect that I screwed up a dosage of copper to the system when it broke out with Ich. I killed everything in the tank, including this broodstock group. The Orangeback Basslet, Serranus annularis, is the reason I now also own a pair of Harlequin Bass (the aforementioned S. tigrinus). I am convinced that my Orangeback Basslets are spawning on a regular basis, but I’ve only documented a single spawn, one time via video, and I collected very few eggs. This is a project I’m strongly interested in completing, but given my current situation, I need A female Mandarinfish (Synchiropus splendidus) swollen with eggs on the afternoon before a spawn. Dragonets like the Mandarin are at the upper limits of what the home hobbyist can potentially breed and rear successfully. a better way to simply collect pelagic spawning eggs on a daily basis, rather than having to sit and watch and wait for a spawn to occur. I’ll close out the group of ‘failures with the ability to change’ with a species I’ve now kept for years. The Pygmy Angelfish, or Cherubfish (Centropyge argi) is one of those fish I simply loved as a kid. Almost 20 years ago, when I worked in a local fish shop, I remember selling this species to a routine client who came in some weeks later to tell me some exciting news – he had spawned this species. Of course, this was at a time when the general wisdom was that you could not, under any circumstances, put two angelfish specimens of the same species in a tank together. And of course, I didn’t know this client already had one when he bought the second one from me. Even then, hobbyists were already challenging the rules – no doubt this influenced my own willingness to do the same from time to time. So when it came to Centropyge argi, I was well-armed with lots of readily available information on how these fish lived, how they formed male-dominated harems, and how you might go about creating an angelfish harem. Of course, unlike the 90-gallon reef tank from 20 years ago, I set out to do it in a 24-gallon cube tank. The first time around, I obtained four specimens during a winter sale from a local shop. The shop had dozens on hand, and we “I didn’t let that failure stop me, knowing full well that it was disease, not aggression, which had caused the first failure” could literally place two fish in a specimen container and instantly know whether they’d get along or not. In no time, we had a compatible group. What we didn’t know at the time was that something sinister was brewing, and once again, my suspected nemisis Uronema cropped up and killed every last fish within a week of purchase. I didn’t let that failure stop me, knowing full well that it was disease, not aggression, which had caused the first failure. I worked with one of my favourite online suppliers of Caribbean reef fish, who hand-picked me the one largest, and three smallest specimens he had. Things went far better and I had my first spawn within 2 weeks. The Angelfish have now spawned daily, like clockwork, every night for years. But I have never made it past 5 days post-hatch with their larvae, and gave up some years back. Of course, with the recent introduction of multiple calanoid copepods (including proven food sources for Indo-Pacific Centropyge), this group of broodstock is now to get another try before 2011 comes to a close. A project that started years ago may still offer the hope of a future success. MP NEXT UP Matt will be taking a well-deserved break to recuperate, returning in the March/April 2012 edition with some new articles. We’re also inviting you, the reader, to submit your breeding-related questions for possible responses from Matt in future instalments of our regular Expert Advice feature. DON’T MISS EXTRA ONLINE CONTENT! Well this series really has been a massive learning curve with loads of info thrown our way. While we’ve tried to include as much content as possible, we couldn’t fit it all in the mag. To ensure you don’t miss out, we have put this extra content together and made it freely available on the website. We’ve included additional images, supporting videos, and references for further reading, for all six parts of the series. Why not check it out! Three Cherubfish or Pygmy Angelfish (Centropyge argi) can coexist and even spawn in a smaller aquarium. Rearing the tiny offspring is another matter, although late-breaking news suggests that this species has just been reared in captivity for the first time by Dwarf Angelfish breeding expert Reef Culture Technologies, led by Frank Baensch, based in Hawaii. -–11 007-011_Breeding_MH006.indd 6 31/10/2011 18:20:28 A REVOLUTION? AUTOMATED WATER CHANGER The AWC (Automated Water Changer) cuts out the need for numerous containers, mixing pumps, manual siphoning and all the mess that goes with it! THE AWC SERVES 2 PURPOSES • Helps pre-mix your salt water. • Once mixed, the AWC will slowly integrate the water with your tank. After an hour or so, simply throw away the water and your water change is complete, hassle free! GOING ON HOLIDAY? Have you ever done a water change whilst your on holiday? Well now you can! Simply pre-mix and set the AWC to do 1 automated change whilst your away. 18 litres Available sizes 30 litres 50 litres See the demo online! 85 litres www.reefloat.com FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT THE WEBSITE Untitled-1.indd 4 30/10/2011 14:00:48 EXPERT A D V I C E I N T H I S I S S U E Welcome to Expert Advice – in each issue we invite a panel of the industry’s best experts to answer your troubling questions, and give you sound advice on how to tackle them. 14 15 16 17 A BIT ABOUT CRAIG Craig has been an enthusiastic aquatic hobbyist from an early age. He worked in a local shop as a fish house supervisor and then went on to study a Fdsc in Marine Aquaculture at Cornwall College in Newquay, followed by a BSc (Hons) in Applied Bioscience (Aquaculture) at the University of Plymouth. A BIT ABOUT LEVI Levi Major is a UK-based engineering geologist by trade, but he also has over 21 years of experience in marine fishkeeping. Levi’s specialist areas are on the technical side and include marine chemistry, general reef mechanics and gadgetry. A BIT ABOUT TRISTAN Tristan is an honours graduate in Zoology and has worked in the aquarium trade for almost 20 years. He has written almost 250 articles for a variety of aquarium publications and has published two of his very own aquarium books in the UK. A BIT ABOUT BOB With 60+ years’ experience in the aquarium hobby (40 specifically for marines), Bob has pretty much seen it all. He has written extensively on the subject and currently offers independent aquarium consultancy services while still fitting in extensive hobby related travel. TMC Expert Craig Timms gives advice on how to monitor pH levels and what it actually means for the health of your aquarium. Levi Major gives advice to a new marine hobbyist who asks the question, ‘Do I need to regularly dose additives?’ Tristan Lougher answers a question about the hidden and mysterious sponge like growth in a reader’s tank. Bob Goemans eases the troubles for a worried hobbyist. He offers a few reasons why she may be losing her inverts. ™ GOT A QUESTION? Our expert panel can help solve any queries you may have, so send in your questions to Fish Junkies Ltd., PO BOX 4838, Sheffield S12 9DU, or alternatively email: [email protected] -–13 013-017_ExpertAdvice_MH006.indd.indd 1 30/10/2011 19:09:05 ™ www.tropicalmarinecentre.co.uk I am new to marine fishkeeping and I’m trying to get my head around all the various tests. I am finding it a little bit difficult to accurately test for pH with many of the test kits available, but from what I can gather pH really is the crux of things. I am hoping if you can help me understand i) what is pH, ii) is there an accurate method to continually monitor pH, and iii) if the pH level changes, should I react immediately or might it correct itself given a little time? Thank you, Margaret Springfield, Lincoln. Hello Margaret, Generally speaking, pH is a measurement of the concentration of hydrogen (H+) ions in the water. A pH level of 7.0 is neutral. Anything below this level is known as acidic and anything over this is known as basic or alkaline. The pH of the ocean varies, but in marine aquatics the generally accepted level is between 8.0 and 8.4. Generally speaking, this level is attained by the average sum of all the measurements taken in the ocean. One very important thing to note is that the pH scale is logarithmic, which means that a pH measurement of 8.1 is 10 times more acidic than 8.2. Therefore great care should be taken when making any changes in pH because large fluctuations in levels are dangerous for both livestock and filter bacteria, and any adjustments should be made slowly. It is important to understand the relationship between kH and pH. kH is a measurement of the carbonate hardness - the total amount of bicarbonates and carbonates in the aquarium water. kH is measured in degrees of carbonate hardness (dKH), which is also referred to as alkalinity and is measured in milli-equivalents per litre (Meq/l). dKH, Meq/l and ppm (parts per million) are really just different scales of measurement but are basically the same thing. The carbonates and bicarbonates in the water act as a buffer to pH. The biological processes in the aquarium, such as the oxidization by nitrifying bacteria and production of CO2 by aquatic organisms, will acidify the water if there isn’t a sufficient kH level. You should aim for a kH level of between 6-12dkH. The higher the level, the more buffering capacity you will have. To control the kH in your aquarium you will need to measure the calcium and magnesium levels, aiming for a calcium level of 420ppm and a magnesium level of 1300ppm. Remember, stability is more important than hitting specific figures. Calcium and magnesium have their own relationship, and if they are out of balance it will not be possible to control the kH level - a typical problem encountered by most beginner marine aquarists. If you try to alter one and not the other, calcium will typically be precipitated out of the water by the chemical reaction, leaving you with white traces all over your tank and equipment. Calcium and magnesium are used by fish and invertebrates in their day to day biological processes. This is especially true for hard corals, which will use calcium and bicarbonates to create their calcareous structures, potentially causing the calcium and magnesium levels to become out of balance. This imbalance then affects the kH level, causing the pH to change. If you use a high-quality salt mix and undertake regular weekly 10-20% water changes, you will be replenishing, in the correct quantities, all the essential minerals and trace elements used in the aquarium, thus controlling the pH, kH, calcium and magnesium levels. While many good salt products are available, I would recommend you use either Tropic Marin Pro Reef or Tropic Marin Bio Actif. These are laboratory-manufactured pharmaceutical grade salts which have all 70 of the trace elements found in the ocean added in their correct proportions. A testament to this product is that it is the only brand used, for the last 40 years, by Tropical Marine Centre in its four fish-holding facilities and hatchery, where many aquaculture world firsts have been achieved. If your aquarium inhabitants, such as growing hard corals, place a higher demand on the minerals, your weekly water changes will not replace all that have been depleted. In this situation you will have to monitor, test and supplement the various levels. To constantly monitor your aquarium’s pH level, there are also products available that offer this functionality, albeit they’re more expensive than the standard test kit, for example, the V2Control pH Monitor. This will constantly monitor the pH and display the level accurately on a screen. If you wish to raise the pH you can add Tropic Marin Triple Buffer, which will raise the pH, KH and other minerals required at the same time. Alternatively, if you prefer, you can use a good test kit to check pH, as well as other parameters such as alkalinity, calcium and magnesium. The Salifert range is particularly recommended for ease of use, speed, accuracy, range and price. You can supplement your aquarium with calcium and/or magnesium in many different ways, but make sure any adjustments are made slowly (over days and weeks). A weekly dose could be divided into seven small daily doses, which means you will steadily increase the parameters rather than giving your aquarium a sudden jolt. Never panic and make a sudden change. If a test is out of its normal parameter, test it again to make sure it isn’t a test user error. If there is a violent swing in pH, the damage has been done so it’s time to start damage control and check for the biological stressors such as ammonia and nitrite, and then slowly increase the calcium/magnesium/kH and then pH. I hope this helps, and I wish you happy fishkeeping! Craig Timms, TMC Bristol. For further information about any of TMC’s products, please go to www.tropicalmarinecentre.co.uk ™ 14–013-017_ExpertAdvice_MH006.indd.indd 2 30/10/2011 19:09:09 www.marinehabitatmagazine.com Hello Panel, please help. I am a total 100% novice when it comes to marine, in fact I’ve never even had a tank, but I love the look of them and really want to give it a go. The problem I’m having is that as soon as I start reading about it, there is just a mountain of information. From research done so far, I feel I have a reasonable idea of the type of equipment I would need to get me going, and obviously the feeding will depend on the inhabitants, but I’m more confused about the additive side of things. There are thousands of products on the shelf, some specific ones and some that do multiple things, so my question is this: what sorts of additives would I need to be using, and how often? Carl Johnson, Worksop. Hi Carl, If I could be so bold to say, at this stage of your hobby you are very likely not going to need any additives over and above what can be achieved by regular partial water changes, whereby the majority of elements will be adequately replaced. However, I will admit that the majority of us have at some time stood in the LFS staring at all the additives, wondering what it all means and which ones we need! The very fact that all the bottles portray the dire need your animals have for iodine, calcium, magnesium, strontium, iron, and a whole plethora of chemicals you’ve not heard of since your last chemistry lesson at school, just leads to the confusion that you, and so many newcomers and experienced hobbyists experience. It is impossible for me to give a definitive list of things you will or will not need to replenish, as I don’t know what stock you hope to care for, or indeed your proposed maintenance regime. If you were to undertake, for example, weekly 10% water changes and were keeping soft corals and a few LPS corals, then I would say no supplements would be needed. However, if the water changes were monthly and your display was dominated by SPS corals, then you would be looking to add calcium, magnesium, strontium, etc., to keep these at peak growth and in perfect health. The only advice I can give you at this point is to invest in test kits, and allow the results of these to dictate if you have deficiencies which need rectifying by supplementation, again, taking your water change regime into consideration. Another word of advice would be to say that if you haven’t correctly calibrated your refractometer, or are using a hydrometer, you may not be running the system at the right salinity to realise the full calcium and magnesium levels of the salt, whereby you end up replenish these elements and minerals, and in all likelihood it will be calcium, alkalinity and magnesium which make up the bulk of what requires supplementing. Whilst there are a multitude of products on the market, I find that a two-part additive called C-Balance from Two Little Fishies is a good all-rounder; it provides sufficient supplementation of calcium, magnesium and various other salts to maintain alkalinity, as well as strontium, lithium, rubidium, zinc, copper and iodide, etc. It should be noted, however, that even with a simple two-part additive, you need to test the water for alkalinity, especially in this case, as the amount you add will be dependent on this parameter. So, to summarise, there is no way that I can tell you what you do and don’t need to supplement because it will be dependent on so many factors. It may well be the case that in your early days of the hobby, you can maintain the parameters with simple water changes at the correct salinity, with a view to supplementing as the system grows, along with your choice of corals. But, of course, what and when can only be dictated by your water tests, and your observations of your pride and joy! “The only advice I can give you at this point is to invest in test kits, and allow the results of these to dictate if you have deficiencies which need rectifying by supplementation, again, taking your water change regime into consideration” supplementing these ions when a slight increase in the system’s salinity is all that’s needed. I will concede that marine invertebrates, from corals to crabs, as well as the fish themselves, down to the lowly macro and calcareous algae, consume many trace elements and minerals in the aquarium. Various minerals and elements must constantly be replenished because every occupant of the aquarium is competing for these elements and minerals. As such, you may well experience a need to Levi Major. Don’t forget to check out our website for regular updates, with the latest news, mini articles, interesting video links and extended magazine articles: www.marinehabitatmagazine.com -–15 013-017_ExpertAdvice_MH006.indd.indd 3 30/10/2011 19:09:12 www.marinehabitatmagazine.com The other day, I was slightly rearranging my tank, and when I pulled a largish rock away to move it, I found a significant amount of white sponge-like stuff on the back. Can you help me understand what this might be, and is it good or bad? Dennis Dodd, Lancashire. Dennis, The chances are that if you found it on the underside of a rock in your aquarium and it looks like a sponge, then it actually is a sponge. Next to the cnidarians – the taxonomic group that contains the corals and anemones we maintain in reef aquaria – sponges represent the next largest group in terms of biomass on natural coral reefs. There are around 7,000 species currently known to science, and the majority of these are saltwater in origin, although they are not limited to tropical seas. Sponges (Phylum Porifera), possess specialised cells that pump water through the colony. Water enters via inhalant siphons that tend to give the colony a granular appearance in the majority of species, and exits via larger exhalent pores called osculae. There are exceptions; some sponges can appear shiny in texture, particularly those known as chicken liver sponges – commonly found on specimen corals. Some sponges take on low encrusting shapes, whereas others are whip-like, columnar or tubular, and can bore into hard calcium carbonate surfaces such as coral skeletons and mollusc shells. Shapes and colours can vary considerably, from bright blues, oranges, yellows and reds, to grey, white and translucent. The vast majority of species that are offered for sale as specimen pieces, or which occur through accidental addition with living rock or coral base rock (even the stony skeletons of specimen corals may harbour a variety of sponge species), are exclusively filter-feeding, relying on a variety of fine edible particles for their nourishment. These may be as small as bacteria, or as large as the fine detritus typical of fish waste. Different sponge species may have different preferences for the size of particle that they consume. However, there are a number of species that form symbiotic relationships with bacteria, and some with photosynthetic bacteria we know as blue-green algae. One such species, Collospongia auris, is a bluish-grey species, shiny in appearance, which can overgrow well-lit aquaria and even out-compete corals, given the opportunity. Not all sponges enjoy strong illumination – some positively shun it. Others do well in well-lit aquaria, as long as nutrient levels are low enough to prevent the growth of algae that can foul sponges, which prevents them from being able to feed and so they soon begin to die. The second part of Dennis’ question asks whether sponges are good or bad in an aquarium. Well, unfortunately this is not a simple question to answer. Those that are introduced by accident and grow naturally in the home reef system are, by and large, entirely harmless, and may actually assist an aquarium in the management of fine detritus that otherwise might accumulate and cause problems in terms of water quality. However, as the sponges thrive and colonise the surfaces of live rock, they have the potential, at least in theory, to compete for substrate with the bacteria that detoxify harmful ammonia and nitrite. This is likely to be less of a problem than colonisation by calcareous algae reducing beneficial bacteria on the well-lit rock surfaces. Arguably the most problematic sponges in the home aquaria are those with symbiotic algae, such as the aforementioned C.auris, sometimes known as ear sponges. They not only utilise the bright light offered in most reef aquaria for growth, but they are also capable of processing the fine detritus generated naturally in most systems. Their prodigious growth rates can cause them to overshadow or overgrow less vigorous coral species. Not everyone finds this intolerable, and the sponge has a certain beauty to it that some aquarists enjoy. As the saying goes: ‘One man’s meat is another man’s poison’. It is also worth mentioning that dead or dying sponges are abundant on and in ‘uncured’ live rock. These are the decomposing organic sources that produce high levels of ammonia and nitrite during the curing process. In general, sponges that begin to grow and thrive in the home aquarium should be welcomed, as they increase the general biodiversity of the system. As with any organism, rapid growth may be problematic and indicate a photosynthetic species of an excess of the fine particulate diets that sponges enjoy. I have seen situations where phytoplankton has been added regularly to a system with few specimen animals that consume these unicellular algae, where sponges have grown quickly as a result. In such circumstances, photosynthetic corals may be overgrown and therefore lose their access to light and, to a lesser extent, nutrients. Such issues are thankfully rare and not insurmountable, but best prevented through gradual increase of particulate diets once fundamentals such as nutrient management and control are mastered by the aquarist. “sponges that begin to grow and thrive in the home aquarium should be welcomed, as they increase the general biodiversity of the system” There are at least four sponges in this picture, each with very different overall structures and colours. They include boring forms, encrusting species, and columnar and cup-shaped giants. Tristan Lougher. Don’t forget to check out our website for regular updates, with the latest news, mini articles, interesting video links and extended magazine articles: www.marinehabitatmagazine.com 16–013-017_ExpertAdvice_MH006.indd.indd 4 30/10/2011 19:09:13 www.marinehabitatmagazine.com Hi, I have a successful nano tank, in which corals and fish thrive, however, I seem to struggle with inverts. I’ve tried cleaner shrimps, emerald crabs, and more recently a sea urchin, and unfortunately have lost them all for unknown reasons. Could you offer any thoughts on any aspects of a tank that may affect inverts more so than other inhabitants? Many thanks, Susan Clayton, Skegness. Dear Susan, Nano tanks are popular for numerous reasons, such as many come equipped with the necessary associated equipment required to become fully functional, e.g. lights, heater, water pumps, and filters. Of course, the overall costs are also far less than for much larger systems, and even though the size is small, the satisfaction they deliver can be immense. Notice that I said ‘can be’. That’s because nano systems contain far less water than larger systems, and therefore experience water chemistry changes faster than what occurs in larger systems. To their benefit, water changes are far easier and less expensive than those for larger systems, and can almost entirely maintain proper water chemistry when accomplished regularly. I bring this up here since water chemistry is the number one maintenance aspect for all aquarists; however, even though you failed to mention water parameters, the mention of corals (corals are also invertebrates) and fish doing well leads me to surmise that it’s within most needed water parameters. The second most important aspect in aquatic animal-keeping is nutrition. It would have been helpful if you had mentioned the species presently in the tank, or more information about the ones that failed, and how everything is maintained. Nevertheless, let’s discuss shrimp first; you are probably talking about the common cleaner shrimp such as the Scarlet Cleaner/White-striped/ Skunk Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis). This beauty has two red longitudinal stripes separated by a white stripe that terminates in a white-blotched inverted ‘T’ on the tail fan. It also has extremely long white antennae, and seems to be sensitive to temperatures above 27°C, and as with all shrimp, the water’s magnesium (Mg) level must be properly maintained, e.g. about three times the calcium level in a properly balanced (calcium and alkalinity) environment. Keep in mind that the moulting process will not complete should the Mg be too low, and the animal will be lost. Also, should the shrimp not have a secure environment for the moulting process, tank mates may consume the shrimp while it is in this suspended process. As to its nutrition, I have always found that shrimp will feed upon the various foods fed into the aquarium, or from the cleaning process if so utilised by the species. Therefore, I would test the Mg, adjust if necessary, and be sure there are secure hiding places in the aquarium’s décor. As for the Emerald Crab (Mithrax sculptus), in my opinion, this is not a wise choice for a small aquarium. In the wild (Western Atlantic Ocean) they are found living on algae-covered rocky coastlines; backwater areas where rock surfaces and rubble are algae–covered, and also in seagrass beds. Therefore, since their diet appears to be mainly algae, they have found their way into the hobby where they are sold as algae consumers. This may be quite true when very small, yet as they grow larger (7.5-10cm), they become consumers of small fishes or anything “nano systems contain far less water than larger systems, and therefore experience water chemistry changes faster than what occurs in larger systems” else they can get a claw on! Systems that are lacking in algae put its other small creatures in danger if this crab is in the same tank, and since I don’t know the environmental condition of your aquarium, I can only surmise it didn’t have enough to eat. In general, urchins are also consumers of algae and coralline algae, in fact, large consumers of algae! If not supplied a plentiful supply, they will diminish in health and die. Be aware that they also have a desire for calcium carbonate, and therefore can be given pieces of cuttlebone to graze on, which may help satisfy this need and possibly save some valuable coralline algae. Sinking algae tablets/pellets may be a way to keep them well fed. I hope this helps, and I’ll leave you with this advice – when requesting help in the future for perplexing aquarium problems, always provide the fullest details of the environment, as the person answering your letter is similar to a doctor/detective, and needs all the facts to respond with good advice. Bob Goemans. Bob’s past nano tank, a Red Sea Max 30D, with poly-foamed walls and bottom, so no sand was needed. Don’t forget to check out our website for regular updates, with the latest news, mini articles, interesting video links and extended magazine articles: www.marinehabitatmagazine.com -–17 013-017_ExpertAdvice_MH006.indd.indd 5 30/10/2011 19:09:17 x12 CREELEDs 30 WATT High Power Spotlight • Passivecoolingwithouttheneedforfans • Longlifespan • Waterproof(IP67)LEDlightunit • Lowenergyconsumption • Adjustablepositionandangleoveraquarium • Interchangeablelensesavailable www.arcadia-uk.com Formoreinformationpleasevisitourwebsite oremail:[email protected] Untitled-1 1 30/10/2011 12:13:04 CLEANER WRASSES SUITABLE FOR THE HOME AQUARIUM? SCOTT MICHAEL Age: 49. Hometown: Lincoln, Nebraska USA. Full-time occupation: Photojournalist. Also involved in consulting for an aquarium maintenance business (Reef Tectonics). Marine experience: 38yrs. Aquarium size: 58 US gallon aquarium at home. Also involved in maintaining over 100 marine and freshwater aquaria. Favourite fish: Wobbegongs, Epaulette Sharks, Frogfishes (aka anglerfishes), Shrimp Gobbies. coral: Euphyllia, Goniopora and Alvepora spp. other: Reef lobsters and decapod shrimps. Specialist areas: Behaviour ecology of Elasmobranches (sharks and rays) and reef fishes. Labroides dimidiatus cleaning a fusilier. Scott Michael returns in this issue to discuss the problems and benefits of having a handy Cleaner rummaging around the aquarium. T he first record of a wrasse in the genus Labroides cleaning another fish appeared in literature in 1940. In this book, the author L. F. de Beaufort stated that: “In the aquarium of Amsterdam I observed that Labroides dimidiatus cleans the surrounding of the mouth and the gill openings of large fishes…” It was 9 years later when the famous ichthyologist J.L.B. Smith said of the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (L.dimidiatus): “Feeds on minute organisms on rocks and has been observed to nibble over the mouth parts and gill cover of large rock-cods (groupers).” It wasn’t until 1955 that a more detailed description of Labroides cleaning behaviour occurred in a paper written by Dr John Randall (he later did a taxonomic revision of the genus in 1958). Since those original descriptions of the symbiosis that occurs between Cleaner Wrasses and other fish clients, scores of papers have been written about this amazing relationship. I will summarise some of this data in the article that follows, as well as examine the dubious husbandry record of the Labroides spp. CLEANING BEHAVIOUR The Cleaner Wrasse genus Labroides comprises five very distinguishable species. The members of this genus rely almost entirely on cleaning to obtain nutrients as both juveniles and adults. Cleaning behaviour is defined as a mutualistic relationship that exists between certain parasitepicking fishes and their piscine neighbours (the client or host species). So what are the benefits to the cleaner and the client? The most important prey of the Labroides spp. are crustacean ectoparasites that attach to the fish and feed on their body fluids and tissue – namely gnathiid isopod larvae and calagoid, lernaeid, and lichomolgid copepods. The importance of each of these two groups varies from one location to the other. In locations where isopods are the most common parasite on reef fishes, adult Labroides selectively feed on larger gnathiids. Of secondary importance in Cleaner Wrasses diets are parasitic flatworms (e.g. Benedenia spp). I should point out that the flatworms may be more important in Cleaner diets than currently recognised. Because they are soft-bodied and hence digested more rapidly than hard-bodied crustaceans, they would be more difficult to find in Cleaner guts. All these ectoparasites can certainly impact the fitness of their host. Therefore, having them removed by a Cleaner would have definite benefits. -–19 019_022_CleanerWrasse_MH006.indd 2 29/10/2011 15:11:33 Cleaner Wrasses - Scott Michael Cleaner Wrasses also feed on infected and dead tissue from an injured client. A study on Caribbean Cleaner Gobies (genus Elacatinus) indicates that injured fishes may seek out cleaning to aid in wound healing. In this study, it was shown that wounded fishes, namely the Blue Tang (Acanthurus coeruleus), spent more time seeking out Cleaner services than healthy conspecifics. These injuries were reported to heal quickly because the gobies clean the wounds of infected tissue. Although this same quantitative data does not exist for Labroides-client interactions, there is no doubt the cleaning services of the Labroides might fulfil a similar function. What is the benefit to the Cleaner Wrasses? There are hundreds of small fishes, like the Labroides, which feed on small crustacean prey, but because these wrasses are able to utilise this highly-specialised food resource, they decrease the level of competition with their neighbours. MUCOPHAGY Here is where a confounding element enters this otherwise nice, simple story. Not only do the Labroides prey on ectoparasites, they also feed heavily on the scales and mucus of their clients. Consider the Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides phthirophagus). This species can ingest up to 2ml of host mucus during an hour of cleaning. That is a lot of slime! Food preference studies have been conducted that indicate that Cleaners prefer slime over ectoparasites. In one such study, captive L. dimidiatus were trained to take mashed prawns and fish flakes from Plexiglas plates. They were then offered a choice of parrotfish mucus, monogenean flatworms, parasitic gnathiid isopod larvae, and flour glue (the control) on the plates, in equal amounts. The wrasses fed most heavily on mucus and monogeans, while gnathiids were eaten only slightly more than the control. These findings are very interesting when you consider that gnathiid isopods are reported to be the most important component in the diet of this population of Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (e.g. comprising 85% of the diet of adult L. dimidiatus from Lizard Island). The amount of mucus consumed varies between the Labroides spp. and from one geographical area to the next. In part, mucus ingestion is a function of parasite abundance. In locations where crustacean ectoparasites are not as common, clients spend less time posing, while Labroides dimidiatus are not afraid to get really stuck in to find food. Labrodies dimidiatus FIJI form Cleaners did more inspecting and were taking more bites and ‘swipes’ at their clients. ‘Swiping’ is when the Labroides swims against the side of the client with its jaws open and is a behaviour thought to be associated with mucus ingestion. Cleaner Wrasses tend to ingest more mucus from fish that produce it in copious amounts. mucophagy, and is considered to be a form of parasitism. Fish mucus is rich in nutrients, like nitrogen and carbon. It is a valuable food resource to be sure. But by removing this protective mucus, the Cleaner Wrasses may harm their clients by making them more susceptible to bacterial or protozoa infections. Mucus also facilitates swimming by reducing drag as the fish moves through the water. Removing it may increase a fish’s energy expenditure. It would then appear that if a Cleaner engaged in too much mucus feeding and harmed its clients, there would be selective pressure against frequenting cleaning stations, or at least against visiting those Cleaners that included more mucus than parasites in their diets. “removing this protective mucus, the Cleaner Wrasses may harm their clients by making them more susceptible to bacterial or protozoa infections.” For example, at Heron Island, Great Barrier Reef, seven of the 10 species most often subjected to swiping behaviour were wrasses and parrotfishes – species that are known to produce heavy mucus coatings. There are also interspecific differences in the quality (e.g. caloric value) of client mucus. For example, parrotfish mucus is thought to be more nutrient-rich than surgeonfish mucus. These factors apparently have some role in determining if a Cleaner Wrasse selects to clean one fish over another (e.g. parrotfishes over surgeon), or if the Cleaner ingests mucus or invests time and energy searching for parasites on a particular client. Feeding on another fish’s slime is known as CLEANER WRASSES IN THE AQUARIUM Most members of this genus are considered difficult to maintain long-term in the home aquarium. There may be one exception to this – the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus). Although we have long considered it difficult to keep this species in North America (where I’m from), the Europeans consider it a good beginner’s fish! It is so popular there that it is usually one of the top 10 species exported to the European Union. The Europeans report THE DAILY DIET OF A BLUESTREAK CLEANER WRASSE Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus) Statistics A study of L. dimidiatus from the Great Barrier Reef illustrated how amazing these little labrids are! They found that they spent most of their daylight hours inspecting and ingesting parasites, as indicated by the incredible data in the table below. (Adapted from Grutter [1996]) Labroides dimidiatus cleaning another happy customer. Amount of time active each day 12.65 hours Mean duration of inspecting hosts per day 256 minutes Estimated number of fish inspected per day 2297 fish Diet 99.7% gnathiid isopods Number of parasites eaten per minute 4.8 parasites Number of parasites eaten per day 1218 parasites Number of parasites removed per inspection 0.5 parasites Number of bites taken for every parasite eaten 6 bites Time required for food to pass through the gut 3.7 hours Percentage of total body weight consumed 7% per day 20–019_022_CleanerWrasse_MH006.indd 3 29/10/2011 15:11:44 Cleaner Wrasses - Scott Michael A QUICK GUIDE TO THE LABROIDES in male-female pairs. Juveniles are more site-specific, occupying a similar habitat to young L. dimidiatus. This species also has a broad geographical range, occurring from the Society Islands to East Africa. some encouraging longevity records as well. For example, the Nancy Aquarium in France has kept L. dimidiatus for over 11 years, while a life span of over 6 years has been reported to me by several European reef-keepers. FEEDING ISSUES The biggest problem with most of the Labroides spp. involves feeding. With the exception of L. dimidiatus, most species reject captive fare. As a result, they rely totally on the ectoparasites and slime present on their fish tank mates to meet their nutritional needs. This may not be as big a problem if you have a large tank that has lots of potential clients; the Cleaner Wrasse may be able to acquire enough nutrients by grazing slime and the occasional parasite. But if there is relatively little grazing surface (i.e. fish bodies), then the Cleaner will not get enough food to stay alive. As discussed earlier, not all potential hosts are as valuable a food source as others (i.e. those species that produce more slime are more desirable). Therefore, the types of fishes you keep with the Cleaner may also impact its chances of survival. Those species of Cleaner Wrasses (e.g. Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse, Labroides phithirophagus) that rely heavily on fish slime as a nutrient source will usually perish in quick order in most home aquariums. The Bluestreak Cleaner will usually accept foods like finely chopped shrimp, mysid shrimp, frozen brine, freeze-dried tubifex worms, or even frozen prepared foods and flake foods. One way to induce a finicky Cleaner to feed is to present it with a live or fresh mussel that has had the valves forced open so they can pick at the ‘meat’ within. Unfortunately for aquarists, Cleaner Wrasses do not consume the most problematic aquarium parasites – the protozoa and dinoflagellates. Therefore, Cleaners are not recommended as a means of biological control for Cryptocaryon irritans or Amyloodinium ocellatum outbreaks. But Cleaner Wrasses will control another group of parasites that frequently infect our fishes. It has been shown that the cleaning behaviour of the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse can reduce the number of the monogenetic flatworms (Benedenia lolo) in aquarium-held fishes. There is also evidence that indicates these wrasses will pick off the cystphase of the flatworm (Paravortex sp.), which is commonly referred to as black ich Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus) This is the most common and durable Cleaner Wrasse. One reason this species may do slightly better than its congeners is that it is more likely to ingest other foods. This species attains a maximum length of 11cm (4.3ins). The Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse is territorial and displays a haremic mating system. The male defends a large area from consexuals (i.e. members of the same sex) and within his domain there are from three to six females which are subordinate to him. The females form a dominance hierarchy, with the largest female being the most dominant, followed by the second largest, and so on (this is referred to as a sizedependent linear dominance hierarchy). All the Cleaner Wrasses are protogynous hermaphrodites, meaning they start life as females and change into males. When the male dies, the dominant, or alpha, female begins acting like the male and changes sex within 2-4 days. The female next in line moves up a rung and replaces the alpha female. There are no chromatic differences between the sexes, but juvenile colour differs from that of the adults. Apparently, this chromatic disparity prevents larger individuals from beating up the youngsters. It is interesting to note that if larger juveniles (over 3cm in length) are isolated from adults, they usually take on the adult colour pattern in about 3 days’ time. If they are then exposed to adults again and subsequently attacked by them, most will revert back to the juvenile colouration in as little as 5 minutes! The advantage to being the colour pattern of the adult is that these individuals attract more fish in need of cleaning. Juveniles are typically solitary and hang out under ledges and overhangs, where they clean diurnal as well as nocturnal fish species. Not only will these wrasses nip slime off your fish, they will also pick at tridacnid clam mantles and potentially cause their demise. This Cleaner Wrasse is wide-ranging and occurs from the Society Islands in the Pacific, to East Africa and the Red Sea. Bicolor Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides bicolor) This is the largest Cleaner Wrasse, attaining a maximum length of 14cm (5.5ins). Like L. dimidiatus, juveniles of this species are a different colour than the adults, but this species is also sexually dichromatic. Females are grey anteriorly, with a black stripe on the side, and yellowish-white towards the tail area, with a black line on the caudal fin. Males have a royal blue head, are black anteriorly and yellow posteriorly, with a crescent black line on the tail. Males also display at least two geographical colour variants. One of these, known as the Fiji form, has a broad yellowish-orange section on the posterior part of the body. Unlike L. dimidiatus, adult L. bicolor wander over a large area looking for clients, and will swim well off the bottom to clean schooling fish. For example, I observed a large adult cleaning members of a school of Oriental Sweetlips (Plectorhinchus orientalis) that were milling about 2m over the reef. Adults are usually observed Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides phthirophagus) This species is endemic to the Hawaiian Islands and attains 10cm (3.9ins) in length. Males and females are identical in colour, while juveniles are all black with a purple stripe on their back. Youngsters adopt the adult colour when about 4cm (1.5ins) in length. The Hawaiian Cleaner Wrasse is territorial and haremic, displaying a social organisation similar to the Bluestreak Cleaner. They are usually solitary, but occasionally occur in pairs or even small groups (which apparently consist of one male and several females or juveniles). Adults occupy stable cleaning stations, however, individuals may move from one station to another. It feeds on parasitic copepods and isopods, and may rely on host mucus more than any other Cleaner Wrasse. In the aquarium it is difficult to provide it with enough host fish (i.e. mucus) to prevent starvation. Breastspot Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides pectoralis) This species is known only from the Western Pacific, having been reported from Micronesia to the Great Barrier Reef and Indonesia, and also Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean. It is a smaller Cleaner, attaining a length of just over 8cm (3.1ins). It gets its name from the black spot at the base of the pectoral fin. It is similar in behaviour to the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse. Redlip Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides rubrolabiatus) This beautiful wrasse occurs from the Caroline to Society Islands in southeast Oceania. It reaches a maximum length of about 9cm (3.5ins). The Redlip Cleaner Wrasse is often observed in pairs near fore reef areas and sometimes associates with L. dimidiatus. It has been observed cleaning most fish that live on or near the reef, from small herbivores to large carnivores, like the Napoleon Wrasse (Cheilinus undulatus). Limited stomach content data reveals that it feeds heavily on isopods, but it probably also consumes copepods. This species performs a less exaggerated version of the undulating dance display employed by L. dimidiatus. No colour differences exist between the sexes, but juveniles are bright blue with a black band in the middle of the body. -–21 019_022_CleanerWrasse_MH006.indd 4 29/10/2011 15:11:51 Cleaner Wrasses - Scott Michael Labroides dimidiatus clean a wide variety of fish that possess parasites. (aka Yellow Tang disease). They have also been known to remove the cauliflower-like growths produced by the virus Lymphocystis. CLEANER DOWNSIDES Adding a Cleaner Wrasse to a tank of fishes has some downsides. There are some costs associated with visiting a Cleaner Wrasse. The Labroides feed on host mucus, scales, and skin, especially when ectoparasites are in short supply. Most of the parasites on the Cleaners’ bill-of-fare are in short supply in the home aquarium, so the captive Labroides will ingest larger quantities of fish slime and scales in order to survive. Because of a loss of its external protection, a ‘captive client’ is likely to be more susceptible to bacterial infections and infections by protozoa and dinoflagellate parasites. It is only logical that a Cleaner is going to be more of a menace in a smaller tank that contains fewer potential clients to feed off. Therefore, if you are going to keep a Labroides, it would be wise to house it in a larger tank with a relatively large fish community. In a large tank it will also be easier for potential clients to avoid the attentions of a Cleaner Wrasse. A client fish that gets nipped by a Labroides may retaliate by chasing it off. This behaviour is commonly seen in the aquarium and can be problematic for the Cleaner, as certain tank mates may persistently attack it anytime it comes near. On rare occasions, an exasperated fish may turn on the Cleaner and kill it. For example, triggerfishes have been known to dispatch an annoying Cleaner Wrasse. On the other hand, Labroides will sometimes hound less manoeuvrable species, such as puffers, trunkfishes, and porcupinefishes, causing them great duress. This pestering may even elicit an Ostracion trunkfish to emit its deadly toxins and wipe out a whole captive community. I have even had particularly aggressive Cleaners continually harass more mobile species. In one case, I had a larger L. dimidiatus chase a medium-sized Palette Surgeonfish (Paracanthurus hepatus) until the latter started hiding incessantly. (The Cleaner ended up damaging the cornea of one eye due to excessive picking!) A confused Cleaner might also persistently attempt to nip at and chase fishes with small spots. In some cases, it appears that the Cleaner is attempting to feed on the parasite-like markings. They have been known to do the same to tridacnid clams – that is, nip at spots and papillae on the mantle of the clam. The Bluestreak Cleaner can also exhibit agonistic behaviour toward other labrids. I have seen large L.dimidiatus chase smaller Fairy Wrasses (Cirrhilabrus spp.) and Flashers (Paracheilinus spp.). They can be very aggressive towards each other, so it is prudent to keep only one Labroides per tank, or add two individuals that vary greatly in size (they are protogynous hermaphrodites, so smaller individuals are likely to be juveniles or females, while males tend to be larger). While they are not suitable for all aquarium venues, the Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse can be a fascinating aquarium charge. Watching them clean their aquarium neighbours can entertain the interested aquarist for hours. However, in most cases, the other Labroides spp. do not fare well in captivity and are best avoided. Happy fish-watching! SM “Watching them clean their aquarium neighbours can entertain the interested aquarist for hours” Many fish seek regular cleaning to ensure they’re free from parasites. 22–019_022_CleanerWrasse_MH006.indd 5 29/10/2011 15:11:54 SAVE OUR REEFS – 5p from every magazine sold goes directly to marine conservation ! fs ee r r ou e v sa s t’ le er h et Tog I f you are a regular reader of Marine Habitat magazine, you may be aware of our campaign to raise funds for marine conservation, but if not, here is a little insight into what we are doing and why. Nearly 60 per cent of the world’s remaining reefs are at significant risk of being lost in the next three decades! Amongst many other things, this is due to pollution, climate change and poor fishing methods. This is not a small issue, and not something that can be resolved overnight, however, Marine Habitat magazine is striving to raise awareness, and enable hobbyists to make a more informed decision about their choices of livestock and their sources. We are therefore raising funds for the organisations out there which are working hard to conserve what we have. HOW THIS AFFECTS YOU If nothing is done about this global problem we will lose huge amounts of the world’s sea life, resulting in a shortage of stock and making the fish and corals you find in the shops hard to come by, and consequently unaffordable. So this affects us all, which is why it is so important to every fishkeeper. A perfect example of this is the Yellow Tang, which is only collected from one location worldwide, and if the government stop allowing fishing here, we will never see another one in our hobby – one of the most iconic marine fish will be gone forever! WHAT WE ARE DOING ABOUT IT Our pledge is to donate a minimum of 5p from every copy of Marine Habitat magazine sold to a chosen marine conservation organisation. While 5p may seem a small amount, collectively across all magazines sold we hope this will equate to a generous donation. Through this approach, every reader who purchases a copy of the magazine will, in a small way, be helping to secure the future welfare of all natural marine life. HOW OUR CONTRIBUTION WILL HELP • Support towards the ongoing worldwide clean-up projects to reduce pollution. • Will provide better training for workers to improve fishing practices. • Funding the essential environmental education programme in schools to make children aware of the problems we face. Together we can make a difference to maintain a sustainable industry for many years to come. Picture courtesy of David Burdick/ Marine Photobank. 067_SaveOurReefs.indd 1 21/08/2011 19:36:40 NEW TO MARINE HABITAT? HUNGRY FOR MORE MARINE MARINE MARINE If you joined us on a later issue don’t forget that you can still buy our amazing back issues online LIM ITE D ST OC K marinehabitatmagazine.com UKZoaSwap_quater_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 12:50:36 Freshwater Mysis Relicta Shrimp ST OC D LIM ITE SO LD OU T K Mysis RS The best quality mysis harvested from the glacier fed lakes of British Colombia, Canada. Nutritionally Complete Food Source Rich in Omega 3 Fatty Acids EPA & DHA. New Flake Now Available EUROPEAN DISTRIBUTORS REQUIRED Available from your local BCUK Stockist for further information on this product please call 01507 600477 or visit: www.food44sh.co.uk Untitled-1.indd 3 30/10/2011 14:02:07 YOUR ULTIMATE SPECIES GUIDE In each issue we will provide thre e or more in-depth guides on marine species found in the home aquarium. Profiles will be full of facts, photos and guidelines to keep the species in tip-top conditi on. THIS TIME... Regal Tang Green Emerald Candycane WHY NOT? Tear out these profiles and start creating your own archive. Each issue will have three profiles which will be available to download on our website should you want to keep the magazine intact. 025-029_SpeciesProfile_MH006.indd 1 29/10/2011 14:52:00 COMMON NAME/S: Pacific Regal/Blue/Hippo/ Palette Tang SCIENTIFIC NAME/S: Paracanthurus hepatus ORDER: Perciformes FAMILY: Acanthuridae GENUS: Paracanthurus RANGE: Indo-Pacific Paracanthurus hepatus Written by John Clipperton Regal Tangs are a popular choice amongst hobbyists, but be warned, they can grow up to 30cm (11.8ins). Before buying, make sure you have adequate space to keep this chappy happy! NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Although this species has a wide distribution, occurring throughout the waters of the Indo-Pacific oceans, it is not regarded as a particularly common or numerous species in any location. Instead, adult fishes are usually observed fleetingly as solitary specimens, in pairs, or in loose aggregations that roam quickly across relatively shallow reefs in search of feeding opportunities. Usually found at depths ranging from 10-40m, they are reported to favour seaward reefs with clear waters, which are exposed to strong currents. Juvenile specimens often occur in groups near to Pocillopora eydouxi coral heads, in which they retreat for safety. In terms of feeding, this species is benthopelagic, meaning that it feeds on both free-floating zooplankton, and grazes algae and other organisms from hard substrates. Variants from the Indian Ocean with yellow colouration on the lower half of their bodies are offered in the trade less frequently than the more common variety, and may be named along the lines of Yellow Belly Regal Tang. CAPTIVE CARE: Thanks to their beautiful royal blue colouration, Regal Tangs are one of the most popular ornamental fish species. However, many hobbyists fail to appreciate how quickly they may grow and introduce them into tanks that are too small. Ideally they require a tank of at least a 300-litre capacity when small, with substantially larger tanks advised for adult-sized fish (which can grow up to 30cm (11.8ins) and may live for over 10 years!), or for groups. Lateral line disease, fin erosion, ich, and other skin parasites are a particular problem with this species, and it is often stress leading from confinement that can bring on these maladies. In addition, a varied diet is vital to maintain health and intense colouration, with the incorporation of meaty, as well as green, foods of marine origin. Although this species relies on grazing for nutrition less than similar species, green foods should be on offer almost constantly, and other foods should be offered in small portions a few times a day rather than in one large feeding. Be wary of emaciated fishes when selecting at the fish shop. These specimens should be avoided. Like other members of the Acanthuridae family, this species thrives when provided with brisk circulation, lots of swimming space, and high oxygen levels in captivity; indeed, this goes hand-in-hand with their highly active nature. It is also wise to provide hiding places, and be aware that this species may ‘play dead’ by lying on the substrate if stressed. Substrate flashing may be a similar behaviour and doesn’t necessarily indicate attempts to scrape away parasites. Although not regarded as the most aggressive tang species, take note that these fish are armed with a razor-sharp spine at the base of their caudal fin, which can inflict damage to other fishes and aquarists alike! Actually they may also use this spine, and their first few dorsal spines, to deliver venom. In short, although aggression is usually limited to posturing, care should be taken when mixing with other fishes, particularly other tangs. Such combinations should be researched carefully before they are attempted if conflict and injury is to be avoided. Don’t forget, all our species profiles and more will be available to download from our website www.marinehabitatmagazine.com 025-029_SpeciesProfile_MH006.indd 2 29/10/2011 14:52:05 COMMON NAME/S: Emerald/Green Clinging/ Jade/Mithrax Crab SCIENTIFIC NAME/S: Mithraculus scultpus PHYLUM: Arthropoda SUBPHYLUM: Crustacea CLASS: Malacostraca ORDER: Decapoda INFRAORDER: Brachyura FAMILY: Majidae GENUS: Mithraculus RANGE: Tropical Western Atlantic Mithraculus scultpus Written by John Clipperton Emerald Crabs can be a very entertaining addition to a tank, as they are actively moving around searching for food all the time. NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Emerald Crabs are residents of Caribbean waters, specifically occurring in areas such as rocky coastlines, backwaters and seagrass beds where there are a myriad of algae-covered surfaces for them to graze upon. Growing to a few inches from claw-tip to tip, they have a heavily armoured carapace, and their claws have spoon-shaped tips which they use for feeding on different forms of algae (actually they may even consume Bubble Algae [Valonia sp]). In their natural habitat they are nocturnal creatures that shelter amongst rubble and in caves during the day. CAPTIVE CARE: Though billed by some retailers as harmless herbivores, these crabs are actually omnivorous, and large specimens particularly may pose a threat to small fish and possibly other organisms in the aquarium. They may also prove to be a nuisance in certain setups by dislodging surprisingly large rocks and walking over corals, making them retract. They are proven in their ability to clear nuisance algae though, and therefore are perhaps most useful during the initial green hair algae blooms, often encountered when establishing a new tank. It may be wise to move the crab to a sump after this, or trade it with a store or fellow hobbyist. With regard to Valonia sp. Bubble Algae, studies have shown that this species is an effective consumer, particularly when other food sources are limited (especially pellet-type foods). Opinion seems divided on the best size of crab to employ though, with some sources recommending smaller crabs, while others advise large ones. Due to the potential predatory tendencies of large hungry individuals, small ones may be a better option. Females, which may be identified by their smooth abdomen plates (which are interrupted by a tower shape in males), are even suggested to be better consumers. Whatever the case, it may be wise to introduce the crab directly onto the worst patches of algae, as for a while they are likely to feed on whatever is close to them. The fact that these crabs simply tear the bubbles apart, thus releasing algal spores to settle in other areas, is often overlooked, and unless effective filtration and circulation is employed to remove these spores before they settle, it may actually worsen the problem long-term. Furthermore, desirable coralline algae may also be consumed by these crabs. Although nocturnal by nature, they can be expected to be seen during the day in home aquaria, especially when food is introduced! Although tough by nature, they do need to shed their exoskeletons periodically to allow for growth, and during the period immediately after this moulting, their soft new bodies are vulnerable to predators. Correct levels of iodine are also necessary to avoid problems at this time. Don’t forget, all our species profiles and more will be available to download from our website www.marinehabitatmagazine.com 025-029_SpeciesProfile_MH006.indd 3 29/10/2011 14:52:10 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Untitled-1 1 25/08/2011 21:39:31 COMMON NAME/S: Trumpet, Candycane, Bullseye Coral SCIENTIFIC NAME/S: Caulastrea spp. PHYLUM: Cnidaria CLASS: Anthazoa ORDER: Scleractinia FAMILY: Faviidae GENUS: Caulastrea RANGE: Indo-Pacific Caulastrea spp. Written by John Clipperton NATURAL HABITAT: These species are found in Australian waters, throughout the Great Barrier Reef and Coral Sea, in addition to locations around the Seychelles and Maldives, to Fiji and Tonga. Trumpet Coral colonies are usually found on relatively sheltered reef slopes, often with sandy substrates. They are more common in brightly lit shallows which may be subject to surging water flow. In their natural habitat, they are often found with their skeletons encrusted by other organisms, such as sponges, molluscs and other sessile invertebrates. Their phaceloid growthform (where the polyps are supported on stalks that grow out from a shared base) makes such colonisation by other organisms possible. CAPTIVE CARE: Trumpet Corals come in a range of different colours and colour combinations, such as greens, pale blues and maroons. They are hardy corals that make good candidates for beginners; however, they should still be treated with care, particularly with regard to acclimatising them to strong lighting. Positioning them in a semi-shaded area, particularly if powerful lighting is used, would be prudent, at least to start with. In captivity, as in nature, they seem to prefer indirect, moderate currents, and they should be given a few inches clearance around the colony because they may damage, or be damaged by, other corals. This also gives space for growth that may be significant if the coral does well. At night they often extend short feeding tentacles, and will benefit from the occasional feeding of small meaty foods such as brine shrimp, artemia or cyclopeeze. Under ideal conditions, they can grow quite rapidly, and it is relatively simple to fragment these corals, simply by snapping a stalk off the main colony (which often happens accidentally anyway). These stalks can then be attached to rock work and will grow into completely new colonies. Actually, it’s always worth trying to find such captive propagated corals, particularly if you are just starting out. Regarding polyp extension, colonies may exhibit some variability in the amount they ‘puff up’ their polyps. This can happen for several reasons, but overall, heavily inflated polyps can be a symptom that the coral is attempting to expose the symbiotic zooxanthellae within its tissues to more light. In such cases it may be wise to carefully increase light exposure, unless regular feeding is contributing to the coral’s nutritional requirements. Don’t forget, all our species profiles and more will be available to download from our website www.marinehabitatmagazine.com 025-029_SpeciesProfile_MH006.indd 5 29/10/2011 14:52:15 Untitled-1 1 1 Sans titre-4 25/08/2011 18/08/1121:35:34 11:10 TRISTAN LOUGHER Age: 39 Hometown: Northwich, UK. Full-time occupation: Zoologist. Marine experience: 15yrs. Aquarium size: None at home; I’m responsible for many aquaria at Cheshire Waterlife. Favourite fish: Yellow Eye Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus). coral: African Blue Coral (Cespitularia). other: Anything but sea urchins. Specialist areas: Species knowledge. A N E M O N E S In this issue’s Top Of The Rocks, Tristan Lougher takes a look at those amazing alien-like creatures desired by most hobbyists, anemones. Although beautiful, some do have significant problems. Tristan rounds up his top 10 of the most suitable anemones for the home aquarium. F or many people, the appeal of a sea anemone hosting a pair of anemonefish might be the initial attraction that tempts them into the hobby. The interaction between the animals is an amazing spectacle and one that fulfils the desire of most aquarists to witness entirely natural behaviour in the home aquarium. More of the hosting qualities of the anemones later, for not all anemone species available in the hobby will host anemonefish. Indeed there are a few regularly available species that can be stocked purely for their beauty alone, and one of these has only become regularly available in the hobby very recently, despite being known about for many years. FACTORS INFLUENCING THE TOP 10 The Top 10 is a personal ranking and yet the factors influencing my choices and their position within the list will be applicable to most aquarists. Therefore those species achieving higher rankings will be highly attractive, widely available, and relatively straightforward, if not necessarily simple, to keep. It is worth noting that anemones are demanding of excellent water quality and those that contain zooxanthellae tend to require strong illumination too. Together with water quality, water stability is of paramount importance – fluctuations in temperature and oxygen must be avoided. Other factors in play are the maximum size potential for each species – for example, not many aquaria can cope with a hosting carpet anemone (Stichodactyla spp) at maximum expansion. Perhaps the most important consideration is the provenance and survivability of anemones. Farmed anemones are increasing in availability in the hobby, being sourced from suppliers in Indonesia and Vietnam, and these should always be more desirable than wild-collected specimens. Hosting anemones have significant ecological importance on reefs, not least for the important role they have in protecting juvenile and adult anemonefish, as well as other fish such as damselfish and cardinalfish. Their removal on a commercial scale will have an impact on the environment in the collection area. Propagation of anemones in aquaria is also increasing as success in keeping these animals increases. Some will reproduce by fission – where the anemone divides into two separate individuals called clones. When a captive anemone begins to reproduce in this way it often continues to do so indefinitely. The clones can be taken to dealers or exchanged with other aquarists. Artificial propagation has been successfully attempted with most hosting anemone species and many that do not harbour anemonefish. There is one notable omission from the Top 10. This is the beautiful Magnificent Anemone (Heteractis magnifica). Available in red and purple-based forms with blue, green, red and purple tentacles, this anemone would appear to be highly desirable for the home aquarium. Add to this the fact that it is the preferred anemone of the occasionally temperamental Common Clownfish and Percula Clownfish (these two species can prove reluctant to ‘move into’ host anemones. Occasionally this is due to the fact that captivebred specimens have been purchased, but also because unsuitable anemone species are being offered as potential hosts in the aquarium). The problems with magnificent sea anemones include their potent sting, wandering nature in the aquarium, and the fact that as a species it does not ship well, leading to very poor survival rates in captivity. Of course, exceptions do occur, and I generally find that those specimens with more muted colours tend to do much better than brilliantly coloured individuals. I suspect this is due to the areas that they are collected from and the light levels that are incident upon them. In general these are shallow water anemones – seldom found in water deeper than 5 metres. Incidentally, there is evidence that magnificent anemones prefer fuller spectrum lighting of high intensity to the higher Kelvin rating (10000-14000K) used in most reef systems. I have seen some wonderful captive H.magnifica under 4000 -6500 Kelvin 400W metal halides where the aquarium setup and hardware was designed exclusively for the requirements of the anemone, rather than being a general reef system to which an anemone was introduced. Regardless of this it is the fact that in the vast majority of cases this anemone will not survive that leads to its omission from the Top Ten. -–31 039-043-Top10_MH005.indd 1 30/10/2011 12:04:16 Top of the Rocks - Tristan Lougher HOSTING ANEMONE SPECIES Anemones that are known to be occupied by anemonefish at some stage in the fish’s life cycle are known as hosting species. Some will harbour juvenile and adult fish, whereas others, probably due to the small maximum size of the invertebrate, will host only juveniles. There are 10 species of host anemone which are shown in the chart to the right. Identification of some host anemones to species level can be tricky at best, especially the three species of hosting carpet anemone Genus Stichodactyla. There are other species that share common names such as the two commonly known as Malu Anemones in some circles (Heteractis malu and H.crispa). Although the general husbandry for host anemones is very similar, such as the requirement for excellent water quality and strong illumination, many similar species will have specific demands that must be considered before purchase. These may include the overall maximum size (Stichodactyla hosting species may range between 50cm for one species to 100cm in others) or the species of anemonefish commonly hosted. For example of the two species of anemone commonly sold as Malus H.malu only hosts Amphiprion clarkii in the wild, whereas H.crispa hosts a number of species, including the aquarium favourite Percula clownfish (A.percula). NON-HOSTING ANEMONE SPECIES Anemonefishes are a group of fish limited to the tropical and sub-tropical Indo-Pacific, being absent from the tropical Atlantic. However, the genera of anemone that contain host species in the former range have representatives in the Caribbean/ tropical Atlantic. There are also relatively common and very beautiful anemones that can do rather well in the home aquarium. The majority of these contain zooxanthellae like true hosting species, and many act as hosts of other invertebrates such as shrimp or crabs. With care (some species of Periclimenes Shrimp are thought to be small-scale predators of their host anemone) attractive displays of anemones and their commensal organisms may be made in the aquarium. ANEMONE SELECTION FOR ANEMONEFISH Where possible and practical, where an anemone and anemonefish is to be kept, it is good to offer a natural combination. In other words, seeking to provide a species of anemone used by an anemonefish in its natural environment offers perhaps the best chance of natural interactions in the aquarium. Clark’s Anemonefish (Amphiprion clarkii) is the only anemonefish known to use all 10 species of host anemone but as previously mentioned, some of the smaller host species may only be utilised by juvenile fish. Maroon Anemonefish (Premnas biaculeatus) are known to only occupy Bubble Tip Anemones (Entacmaea quadricolor) in their natural environment. Such is their affinity with their host, I have seen these anemonefish swim into the bags of acclimating anemones and tuck themselves into their tentacles. A little research should reveal the natural anemone host, or hosts, for particular anemonefish, and a choice may therefore be made to select the most suitable host. Of course, some anemonefish will move into almost any species of anemone whether it is their natural host or not. Some will even use surrogate hosts, such as stony or leather corals or anemones that do not usually harbour anemonefish. Whether opting for a natural or surrogate host, priority should be given to its requirements, with hardier invertebrates being selected where possible. 10 Night Fire Anemone Phyllodiscus semoni First appearances may be deceiving, and this is certainly the case with this species of Fire Anemone. A beautiful zooxanthellate species it is variable in colour, ranging from green or brown to orange-red. It is the latter colour morph that is most commonly imported for the aquarium hobby. During daylight hours or when the lights are on in the aquarium, it looks a little like an encrusting soft coral such as Cladiella sp, albeit in an attractive colouration. However, at night, from the centre of this colourful furrylooking mass emerges a structure we recognise as an anemone. Indeed it looks very much like a large Glass-rose (Aiptasia sp) Anemone. This is an extremely well-armed anemone with the stinging cells (nematocysts) possessing a potent protein toxin that causes blistering of the skin and, in rare cases, renal failure. It must therefore be treated with respect. The reason I include it here is because it appears now and then in wholesalers and on availability lists, 9 Image courtesy of Guido & Philippe Poppe ww.poppe-images.com © 2011 and is actually quite robust in captivity – even coexisting with sessile invertebrates in well-lit reef aquaria. Therefore it enters at number 10 as a warning; the Night Fire Anemone may be purchased in all innocence but extreme care must be taken with it – use gloves when acclimating it and when putting hands into the aquarium preferably avoiding maintenance of any sort when the central tentacle mass is extended. Fortunately, the relatively high price of £30-£50 may discourage impulse buys, but this is a highly attractive animal and for experienced aquarists might make a good specimen to maintain in a system with no fish present. (These anemones have been maintained with fish and ornamental shrimp with few, if any issues, but the potential for predation or serious damage to free-living animals is very real.) The Night Fire Anemone hosts the anemone shrimp Periclimenes venustus, an occasional import from the Philippines. Hosting Carpet Anemones Stichodactyla mertensii, Stichodactyla haddoni, Stichodactyla gigantea Image courtesy of Guido & Philippe Poppe ww.poppe-images.com © 2011 Stichodactyla anemones are identified by their short tentacles that resemble the pile on a carpet, hence their common name. Available in a number of colour morphs, including purple, red and green, the three hosting species appear with varying regularity in the trade and are often purchased for their looks without realising the potential issues that may arise in the aquarium. Firstly, these are potentially large anemones and even in modestly sized systems can grow to half a metre or more across. Size would be less of an issue if it wasn’t for the fact that Carpet Anemones have very powerful stings. Many anemones feel slightly sticky when the tentacles are touched, which is the sensation of stinging cells firing their specialised harpoon-like hairs into the skin. Try this with a Carpet Anemone and the density of stinging cells means that you stick fast to the short tentacles. Fight this too vigorously and you will contact surrounding tentacles and become well and truly stuck. Being a human, a bit of brute force will pull you free, and yet a fish or ornamental shrimp may not be so fortunate. Stock with extreme caution unless in a anemone-specific aquarium with suitable anemonefish. 32–039-043-Top10_MH005.indd 2 30/10/2011 12:04:21 Top of the Rocks - Tristan Lougher 8 Pizza Anemone Cryptodendrum adhaesivum Image courtesy of Guido & Philippe Poppe ww.poppe-images.com © 2011 A fascinating anemone, imported sporadically for the aquarium trade. It does not generally ship well and has a reputation for being difficult to keep. However, well settled specimens offered good water quality can prove long-lived. Superficially resembling members of the Genus Stichodactyla, Pizza Anemones may be distinguished by the presence of two different tentacle types. Surrounding the outer 1-2cm of the oral disc is a fringe of potent stinging tentacles, similar in appearance to the carpet anemones. However, the inner portion of the oral disc has finer, fur-like tentacles with far fewer stinging cells. Pizza Anemones do not grow especially large (30cm diameter) and only naturally host a single anemonefish species. However, they are known to harbour anemone shrimp (Periclimenes spp) – the ‘pepperoni’ on the ‘pizza’. Opinions vary as to whether anemone shrimp are commensal (therefore harmless) on their anemone hosts or low-level predators that may nibble tentacles. TEN HOSTING SPECIES Anemone Common Name Magnificent or Ritteri Anemone Malu Anemone Short Tentacle Sand/ Beaded Anemone Leathery/ Long Tentacle Malu Anemone Long Tentacle Sand Anemone Pizza/ Mushroom Anemone Haddon’s Carpet Anemone Merten’s Carpet Anemone Giant Carpet Anemone Bubble Tip Anemone Anemone Latin Name Heteractis magnifica Heteractis malu Heteractis aurora Heteractis crispa Macrodactylus doreensis Cryptodendrum adhaesivum Stichodactyla haddoni Stichodactyla mertensii Stichodactyla gigantea Entacmaea quadricolor 7 Beaded or Short Tentacle Sand Anemone Heteractis aurora Image courtesy of Guido & Philippe Poppe ww.poppe-images.com © 2011 The smallest of the anemone species that host anemonefish the Beaded Anemone is often confused with the long-tentacle Sand Anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis), despite not being particularly closely related to it. The species are separated easily because the beaded anemone possesses lateral extensions that can resemble beads or give them a feathery appearance. Both species often possess a red base, which is usually unseen in the natural environment because these are burrowing species; they dig down into sand/gravel substrates, concealing the stem of the animal entirely. The oral disc is then spread flat on the substrate. This provides a large surface area for light and food capture but also acts as a guard perimeter should danger threaten. If a tentacle is touched suddenly the anemone quickly contracts and disappears into the burrow dug by the muscular ‘foot’. For the smaller H.aurora, around 8-10cm sand/gravel substrate is necessary, otherwise the anemone rarely settles well. Regular (every 2-3 days) feedings with meaty diets are a must for this species. 6 Atlantic Anemone, Condy Anemone, Haitian Anemone, Caribbean Giant Anemone Condylactis gigantea Caribbean tropical and subtropical anemones are commonly available in the UK, and are amongst the least expensive of the zooxanthellate species. It is available in a number of different colour morphs, with tentacles ranging from brown to purple and base/foot from brown to yellow, to red to purple. Condy Anemones grow to around 30cm across the tentacle disc in the largest species, and despite being relatively cheap to buy, demand similar lighting intensities to the more expensive Indo-Pacific host anemone species. The energy obtained from lighting can be supplemented with regular small feedings with meaty foods such as chopped or whole shellfish. When given suitable lighting intensity, this is one of the hardier anemones for the home aquarium and may be adopted by some species of anemonefish. -–33 039-043-Top10_MH005.indd 3 30/10/2011 12:04:26 Top of the Rocks - Tristan Lougher 5 Heteractis malu Long Tentacle Sand Anemone, Corkscrew, Red Base Anemone Macrodactyla doreensis Image courtesy of Guido & Philippe Poppe ww.poppe-images.com © 2011 Malu Anemones are commonly imported and are quite easy to identify when you know what you are looking for. The key thing to look for is the shape of the tentacles, which in the true Malu are vase-shaped with a thin attachment to the oral disc, expanding along their length before reducing again to a rounded tip that may be highlighted with a brilliant purple, green or red tip. They more often than not have thin bands of pigment around each tentacle and the density of tentacles looks rather sparse. Commonly beige, grey or brown in colour, the most desirable forms have some astounding colours on the tentacles and oral disc ranging from metallic green to pink, purple and red, and sometimes combinations of these. Confusion may occur between the true Malu and specimens of H.crispa that possess short fattened tentacles. Malu Anemones may be used as hosts by anemonefish other than the Clarke’s Anemonefish (A.clarkii) in the home aquarium, but more often than not this species should be purchased for looks alone. White or yellow specimens should be avoided because these may be dyed artificially and have lost their natural pigments, including their zooxanthellae, probably as a result of stress. Such individuals may reacquire zooxanthellae and survive if sufficient food is offered, and yet this process can be avoided entirely by not buying in the first place. 4 3 Malu Anemone, Short Tentacle Malu, Sebae Anemone The Long Tentacle Sand Anemone is a beautiful invertebrate with a wide variety of stunning colour/pattern morphs that guarantee its popularity with aquarists. For the best result, this digging anemone should have a substantial depth of substrate in which to extend its base, and plenty of room around it to accommodate the tentacle expansion. Purple and red oral discs are particularly spectacular, but green, brown and grey combinations are also beautiful, and some may be highlighted with thin radiating white stripes. The spread of the tentacles in this species can be large – up to 50cm has been reported, and yet most are smaller, with around 20-30cm being average. The general consensus amongst aquarists is that where space allows and a suitable substrate depth can be provided, this is one of the hardier first-host anemone species. Long Tentacle Malu Anemone, Leathery Sea Anemone, Crispa Anemone Images courtesy of Guido & Philippe Poppe ww.poppe-images.com © 2011 Heteractis crispa Possessing long, gently tapering tentacles that usually end in a colourful purple or pink tip, the Leathery Sea Anemone is a potentially large species measuring 40cm or more across the tentacles when fully grown and settled. Specimens should possess slightly tacky tentacles and be attached to the substrate before purchase. They do not attach as strongly as certain other anemones, and I prefer to place them in well-lit areas of the aquarium directly beneath the lighting, albeit at the border of substrate and rockwork. Some will attach to the rocks in this area, whereas others will push through the substrate and attach to the aquarium glass beneath. These anemones appear to enjoy good flow, but it may be necessary to reduce the amount of flow until the anemone attaches itself to the substrate. Well-settled specimens are usually brown, greenbrown or grey in colour, and it is not unusual for specimens to eject some of their photosynthetic pigments during shipping. Therefore regular, even daily, offerings of food may be necessary to supplement their energy until zooxanthellae numbers recover, which is why it is important to ensure that the tentacles have a stinging response (i.e. are tacky) so they can hold onto food and direct it to the mouth. Image courtesy of Guido & Philippe Poppe ww.poppe-images.com © 2011 039-043-Top10_MH005.indd 4 30/10/2011 12:04:36 Top of the Rocks - Tristan Lougher 2 Maxi Mini Anemone Stichodactyla tapetum First published in 1998, Svein Fossa and Alf Nilsen’s The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium Volume 2 discussed a little-known anemone occasionally encountered on tropical Indo-Pacific reefs. The authors suggested that they would “not be surprised at all, if, one day Stichodactyla tapetum appears on offer, together with live rock.” Well, it took over 10 years but it eventually arrived in regular numbers, and on the face of it, it was well worth the wait. However, there would appear to be at least two species, or possibly variants, sold with different maximum sizes. Compared with their hosting congeners, these are tiny anemones peaking at around 15cm diameter. Named Maxi Mini or Mini Carpet Anemones in the trade they have a large natural range throughout the tropical Indopacific, but it would appear that they are being farmed in good numbers in Vietnam. Although a Small Carpet Anemone would have its admirers, even with a subdued palette of colours the Maxi Mini can be one of the most stunningly coloured invertebrates in a home aquarium. With pigments ranging from red to orange, to 1 yellow to fluorescent green, and often combinations of all four, it is not surprising that since good numbers of these anemones became available they have taken the hobby by storm, despite the relatively high asking prices of certain colour morphs. Placing these anemones is a case of trial and error, although they do appear to prefer rock substrates to sandy ones. They may be reluctant to expand directly under very bright illumination straightaway, although this can depend on the intensity and colour temperature of light being used. Once settled they expand beautifully, showing off their remarkable colours and patterning. They can be fed 1-2 times per week, although often manage to capture food intended for fish where offered. Their sting does not appear to be as bad as their larger relatives, and the fact that they are much smaller must mean they represent less of a threat to fish. However, care should be taken with small fish such as gobies. This reason, and the fact that they do not naturally host anemonefish, just about keeps this fantastic anemone from the top spot. Bubble Tip Anemone Entacmaea quadricolor Number one could only have been the Bubble Tip Anemone. Considered the hardiest of the host anemones and known to be utilised by many species of anemonefish including exclusively by the Maroon Anemonefish (Premnas biaculeatus) and happily used by members of the A.ephippium and A.clarkii complexes. This is a species of anemone that has been widely available and commonly kept in marine aquaria for a number of years. However, over recent years we have seen the increasing number of specimens harvested and /or farmed in shallow waters. It has been known for some time that different ecotypes (Ecotype definition: a group of organisms within a species that are adapted to different environmental conditions and therefore differ from one another in structure and physiology) of the bubble anemone exist. The commonest form seen in the hobby is a shallow water variant of usually small size (relative to the maximum size potential of the species) with large Bubble Tips. These may be found singly, in groups, or in large aggregations formed by asexual reproduction. Specimens from deeper water may or may not have bubble tips and are usually solitary. Such individuals will often push their flexible foot deep into rock crevices, a phenomenon repeated in the home aquarium. Bubble Tip Anemones are found in a number of different reef zones from very shallow to depths of up to 40m. There are several colour phases and a high variation in patterning in this species, with some being rather stunning to behold, particularly red forms which are found in both ecotypes. E.quadricolor anemones that form bubble tips in the aquarium of a dealer may not do so in the home aquarium, and vice versa. Light intensity seems to influence bubble tip formation, but it may also be determined by the presence or absence of anemonefish under certain conditions. Bubble Tip Anemones without the swollen tips to their tentacles may be confused with other anemones such as certain colour forms of Heteractis magnifica. However, the tips of the tentacles of E.quadricolor, regardless of whether they have ‘bubbles’ or not, always taper to a point whereas those of H.magnifica have a rounded ending. In general, the shallow water ecotypes make better choices for the aquarium, and these are widely available in the hobby. Better still are the daughter clones that arise from the asexual reproduction of aquarium specimens, as these have not had to endure the rigours of collection and shipping. Although strong light intensity is linked with success with the majority of bubble anemone individuals, whether shallow water or solitary ecotypes, there are exceptions. I am aware of one long-term captive variant that almost certainly belongs to the shallow water ecotype that thrives under strong metal halide lighting, and also the relatively weak light offered by a pair of T8 fluorescents, reproducing rapidly under each contrasting light. Bubble Anemones are renowned for their wandering behaviour in the aquarium, and this can cause problems because they upset lightly attached coral specimens, or even sting them directly as they come into contact with them. This behaviour is probably influenced by a number of factors; the search for suitable light intensity, the search for a suitable rock crevice to push their long flexible foot and stem into, and possibly, where oxygen levels are lower than desired, to position themselves close to the water outflow from a flow or return pump. CONCLUSION The Top 10 often throws up some unusual specimens that may be considered for the home aquarium. For this issue the choice is somewhat limited, due to the relatively few species of anemone available for the home marine aquarium. I didn’t want to focus simply on the species that are known to host anemonefish as the three species in the top 10 don’t actually offer much to the aquarist; not least their outstanding beauty. The top 10 contains some facts that may help an aquarist decide whether a particular anemone is suitable for them to keep in their aquarium, but is by no means definitive. Researching a potential acquisition is always important, but particularly so in the case of anemones because there are a number of potential problems that an unhappy anemone can cause to aquarists and their livestock. Taken a stage further, the last thing a hobbyist wants to deal with is a rapidly decomposing anemone that has died, perhaps due to poor husbandry, unsuitable conditions offered in the aquarium, or because of the stresses of collection and shipping. With care, however, the dream of recreating the relationship of anemonefish and host is very possible and enormously rewarding. TL NEXT TIME In issue 3, Tristan gave us a run-down of his top 10 Large Polyp Stony (LPS) corals. In the next issue, issue 7, he will be treating us his top 10 Small Polyp Stony (SPS) corals. It is commonly recognised that SPS corals require more light, more flow, and better water parameters than LSP corals and as such, are also acknowledged as being more difficult to keep. It is probably fair to say that SPS corals are not ideal for the beginner however most certainly offer an absolutely stunning range of shape, growth rate and most impressive colour. We hope you are looking forward to next issue’s top 20 as much as us. -–35 039-043-Top10_MH005.indd 5 30/10/2011 12:04:44 False Eye Secrets - John Dawes JOHN DAWES Age: 66 Hometown: Gibraltar (now living in Spain). Full-time occupation: International consultant, author, editor. Marine experience: Over 25 years. Aquarium size: Have had numerous aquaria, but owing to my travelling schedule, I now have a number of ponds. Favourite fish: In no specific order; Tomato Clown, Leafy Seadragon, Pinecone Fish, Twinspot Wrasse, Cleaner Wrasse, Yellow Tang, Addis Butterfly, Emperor Angel, Banggai Cardinalfish, Red Lionfish… plus numerous others! other: All forms of shore life Specialist areas: Marine life in nature, ecology, evolution, fish behaviour, conservation, the ornamental aquatic industry. The Copperband Butterfly (Chelmon rostratus) has both a hidden eye and an ocellus located well away from the real eye. 36–036_037_FalseEye_MH006.indd 1 22/11/2011 20:29:29 False Eye Secrets - John Dawes JOHN DAWES FALSE EYE SECRETS In this issue we welcome on board John Dawes to start his new series offering a wide range of interesting topics, each bringing you some factual information. This time John explains the secrets of the false eyes. attackers grip the prey by the head and then manoeuvre it so that it can be swallowed head first. This results in the fin spines of the prey being folded out of harm’s way as it is being swallowed, minimising the risk of injury to the predator. W elcome to a brand new series consisting of one-page insights into the marvellous world of marine creatures. Over time, I will feature a wide range of topics, from false eyes in fish, to gut-vomiting sea cucumbers – and a great deal more in between. Sometimes the column will be dedicated to an item of hot news, while at other times it will focus on less time-sensitive, but nonetheless interesting, aspects of the lives of the marines we keep in our aquaria, or those that roam the coastal and open waters of our planet. I hope you enjoy the offerings. For my part, I’m absolutely delighted to join the Marine Habitat team and to contribute to this great magazine on a regular basis. with the width of the band, bordered by lightcoloured areas in front and behind, which match the colour of the head. Other species do not have a band, but their eyes are surrounded by large dark patches. Whatever the arrangement, the end result is the same; the eye is hidden from view, helping protect it from attack. Many butterflies go a stage further and have one or more eye spots on the body, on the dorsal fin, or at the base of the tail, i.e. the caudal peduncle. False eyes are said to help draw attackers away from the real eyes of the fish to less vital parts of its body. Therefore, if a butterflyfish is injured in an attack, it is more likely to be injured in the region of the ocellus than in the region of the real eye. Thus it will be able to regenerate the damaged tissues, whereas FALSE EYE SECRETS it would not be able to regenerate a lost or It would be safe to say that there’s more to badly damaged real eye. ocelli than meets the eye. Ocelli (singular: Another less often-quoted advantage that ocellus) are also known as eye spots or false may be enjoyed by species with false eyes eyes, and are a feature near the back of the body exhibited by many involves escape behaviour. fish species, both If a predator decides to freshwater and marine, launch an attack, it may as well as non-fish aim just in front of its target species, including to make allowance for the butterflies (of the flying victim’s forward-directed kind!) and moths. escape dash. But if what In many fish species, the predator interprets ocelli are found in as the eye is actually an combination with ocellus located at the back hidden eyes, i.e. end of the prey’s body, true eyes that are and the predator aims In the Lattice Butterfly (Chaetodon rafflesii), the eye camouflaged in some just in front of its target, it is hidden within a black vertical head band. way that makes them is actually aiming behind difficult, or at least, less it, with the intended victim easy to see. Many butterflyfish, for example, dashing off in the opposite direction when the have a dark band running from the top of the attack is launched! head through the eye and down to the chin. This tendency to aim an initial attack at the This band is often narrower than the eye itself, head is adopted by many of those predators and where this is the case, the iris of the eye which don’t possess large enough mouths has a dark or coloured section that coincides to swallow their prey in a single gulp. These Recent studies suggest that eyespots, at least some in damsels (these are Talbot’s Damsels [Chrysiptera talboti]), may have more to do with intra-specific interactions than anti-predator protection. All this makes good biological sense, doesn’t it? However, a paper published in 2008 casts doubt on these traditional interpretations. In a mark-recapture study of newly-metamorphosed Ambon Damsels (Pomacentrus amboinensis), it was discovered that none of the juveniles recaptured after one month had any bite marks on their ocelli. Further, other associated evidence, such as larger eyespots in wild-captured juveniles, as compared to juveniles reared in a predator-free environment, seems to indicate that eyespots may be more important in interactions between juveniles and adults of this species than in anti-predator protection. Another possible function being suggested for eyespots is that they might act to intimidate potential predators at night, when the bearer of the eyespots is hiding. In addition, it is being suggested that predators may learn to associate eyespots with unpalatability in butterflyfishes. If more evidence of this kind comes to light, especially as it relates to other species besides P. amboinensis, we may well have to rethink how we approach and interpret this fascinating subject. JD -–37 036_037_FalseEye_MH006.indd 2 22/11/2011 20:29:34 M any people have a love/hate relationship with xenia. For people wanting to keep xenia, it often will not grow, and for people not wanting it, it usually grows like a weed! It really is the Marmite of the coral world but can be an excellent addition to the marine aquarium, adding lots of very visual movement that not all corals have to offer. Xenia are a little bit of a mystery in the hobby, with many questions about them still awaiting answers. Strangely, even established colonies have been known to deteriorate for no apparent reason, so learning how to frag these corals is worthwhile to ensure longevity in the marine aquarium. JASON THRESHER Age: 35. Hometown: Bookham, Surrey, UK. Occupation: IT manager; owner of Reef Culture. KEEPING XENIA ALIVE While no one really knows why xenia colonies crash, there are a few things you can do to keep this mesmerising coral healthy in your tank. Marine experience: 18 years. Tank size: 24g D-D Nano Cube. • Although xenia are photosynthetic, they seem to do better in nutrient-rich water and grow better in tanks without a skimmer • You need moderate to high flow in the tank to keep the xenia happy. The water flow induces the pulsating action of the corals • Lighting is also important. Although xenia can be kept successfully at lower light levels, for long-term survival in the aquarium you want medium to high lighting • Regular pruning seems to promote good growth and health • Many people that have success with xenia recommend adding iodine to the tank Favourite fish: gobies and blennies. coral: zoanthids. and palythoa! other: Pistol Shrimp. Specialist areas: coral propagation. TOOLS OF THE TRADE SCISSORS: We will be using the scissors to cut the branches off the xenia. Please note: slim-bladed scissors work much better than the large-bladed scissors used to cut paper. You can also use a scalpel, but it is a little more difficult. FRAG PLUG OR LIVE ROCK RUBBLE: The xenia will be attached to these items. TOOTHPICK AND AN ELASTIC BAND: These items will be used to attach the new xenia frag to the live rock. CONTAINERS: As always, it is useful to have a couple of containers to house the corals before and after fragging. I will be demonstrating a different fragging technique in this issue, but the same method that was used in the mushroom article (glass ramekin, elastic band, and meshing) could be used with xenia. It is actually my preferred method for fragging xenia, but knowing multiple techniques always allows you to adapt to whatever equipment you might have at hand. FRAGGING X E N I A SCIENTIFIC NAMES: Xenia sp. COMMON NAME: Pom Pom Xenia, Pulsating Xenia, Pulse Coral In this issue Jason Thresher will be sticking the knife into the ever-popular Pulsating Xenia. Join him as he talks you through the basics of fragging xenia and the care needed for a successful frag. HOW TO FRAG XENIA The easiest way to frag xenia is when it is still in the tank. This way the xenia will be inflated to its full size, making the placements of the cuts much easier. It also allows you to identify which branches are best suited to fragging, because they will all be extended. If you are using a scalpel it is best to frag the xenia out of the water. You should place the coral on a solid surface where you can safely make the cut. When you have identified a healthy branch of xenia, simply cut it from the mother colony. My tip for this stage is as follows: Do not cut the coral flush to the main body of the coral. You want to leave a little ‘stalk’ that will recover and grow into another fragable branch. By cutting the coral flush, there is a high possibility that the wound will heal flush, 38–038-039_FraggingXenia_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 11:31:38 Fragging Xenia - Jason Thresher resulting in one less branch to frag in the future. Once you have cut a few frags off the colony, you now need to attach them to the live rock. Working with xenia is a little tricky because it is so slimy, so the next step might take a little trial and error. Take the wooden toothpick and push it through the base of the frag as though you are making a skewer. This is actually easier said than done, so I have come up with an easier way to achieve this! Use some form of foam or polystyrene and lay the xenia on it. This prevents the xenia sliding around, but also allows you to push the toothpick through the actual polystyrene, so there aren’t the problems you would have if the surface was solid. Once you have skewered the frag, use the rubber band to attach the toothpick to the live rock or plug. It should attach itself to the live rock within 3 weeks. You can then remove the elastic band and pull the toothpick out. The little hole that is left will heal within a few days. Some people use an elastic band to directly hold the xenia onto the rock. This method yields poorer results because the elastic band often sits too tightly and often causes tissue necrosis on the frag. Once you have attached all the xenia to the live rock, return it to the tank. Place it in a medium flow so that it can be encouraged to start pulsing. POST FRAGGING CARE It is normal for the xenia to sulk for a day or two. Keep an eye on the frags and if anything dies or looks unhealthy, remove it from the tank. As with most soft corals, xenia thrive in nutrient-rich water. While they technically are photosynthetic, I find that some target-fed food does induce the pulsating action that is needed for a healthy frag. I have read where some people say that xenia do not feed on suspended particles, but my experience has been different. My xenia go into pulsing overdrive when I feed the tank. I also recommend running carbon to absorb any excess organic waste that might be produced by the recovering xenia. FRAGGING X E N I A STEP 1 Here you can see the various tools used to frag the xenia. Remember to have all the equipment close to hand to ensure you’re not skittering around trying to remember where you last put the elastic bands. STEP 3 Neatly cut a branch from the colony using sharp scissors. Place the frags into the container of water until stage 4. Ideally you want to cut frags that are about 3-4ins long, as this will give you a good surface to skewer when the frags shrivel up. STEP 2 First find a suitable colony with a decent number of branches to frag. Xenia are quite hardy corals when it comes to fragging and don’t mind being out of the water for extended periods of time. STEP 4 Now the tricky part; lay the frags on the sponge (polystyrene works well too) and push the toothpick through the base of the frag and into the sponge. Don’t worry if the xenia frags shrivel up after you have cut them from the colony. This is normal. FINAL THOUGHTS Your xenia fragging endeavours should have a high success rate. They are an easy coral to frag and have unbelievable recovering abilities. They are the perfect coral to practice on and will help you to hone your skills for the more difficult corals to follow! JT Xenia is possibly the easiest coral to frag. Hobbyists regularly accidentally frag them when moving. If you’re new to fragging, then this coral is a sure winner. STEP 5 You will now need the rubber bands and some live rock rubble or frag plugs. Fasten the toothpick to the live rock by tying it down with the rubber band and return the mounted frag to the tank. STEP 6 After about 3 weeks the xenia will have attached to the rock. You can now remove the rubber bands and slowly pull out the toothpick with a gentle twisting motion. The remaining hole should heal over within the next couple of weeks. Did you have a go at fragging xienia? If so, then let us know how you got on: [email protected] -–39 038-039_FraggingXenia_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 11:31:47 and quiet operation. pumps efficient and quiet. Distributed in the UK by T: 01543 68 55 99 (11am - 5pm) E: [email protected] IS YOUR TANK A HARD HAT AREA? No oxygen removed No PH fluctuation No cloudy tank water No rock slides Epo Putty is reef safe and cures underwater to form a solid bond Available from all good retailers visit www.epoputty.co.uk Untitled-1 2 30/10/2011 12:17:44 PART 4 Filtration Demystified - Bob Goemans BOB GOEMANS Age: 75. Hometown: Tucson, Arizona (USA), and Bahia de Kino (Mexico). Full-time occupation: Marine aquarium consultant, public speaker, and writer/author. Marine experience: 40 years Aquarium size: Due to traveling requirements, I maintain two 30 gallon nano systems, one at each home, and also continue to consult and help maintain many client systems. Favourite fish: Enchelycore pardalis (Dragon Moray). coral: Acropora youngei (Bali Green Stony Coral). other: Basically all inverts. Specialist areas: Providing an educational marine aquarium website at www.saltcorner.com DID YOU KNOW? Bacteria using metabolism to ‘transform’ matter/elements/compounds into energy for reproduction and/or other forms of elements or compounds, are at the frontline when it comes to maintaining a healthy and ‘balanced’ aquarium environment. How well they function is dependent upon your knowledge of their existence and requirements, as system environmental changes are a result of their functions, and this is what this four-part article has all been about! Bob brings his four-part filtration series to a close. This time he discusses the close connections of infauna and phosphate relating to the mechanics of the sand bed. Could this be the answer to a balanced aquarium system? A s discussed in the last issue, the differences between biological filtration processes in plenum systems and those from sandbeds used directly on the aquarium bottom were not only quite astonishing, they provided a pathway to obtaining true equilibrium/balance in closed systems. But space to write about our research into phosphate, a subject that also interests almost all aquarists, especially reef aquarists, and that of the impact of infauna was not available. Here, I’ll add those thoughts and try to summarise previous discussions as space allows. As to phosphate, most hobbyists know it comes about mainly from the foods fed and/or the quality of tap water used for evaporation makeup or water changes, and that excessive amounts, e.g. >0.015mg/l, interferes with coral growth and encourages algae growth. Therefore, phosphate-removing media/reactors are important in closed systems. Beyond that, it’s been said that anaerobic areas, where obligate anaerobic heterotrophs reside, accumulate phosphate. Actually, the word ‘accumulate’ is somewhat incorrect. Yes, these bacteria are inefficient and produce copious amounts of phosphate. However, the anaerobic area with its lower pH and redox is a fairly efficient user of the oxygen electrons tied to the phosphorous element. This results in the phosphate being reduced back to phosphorus. That’s a good point for deep beds on the aquarium bottom, as most of its substrate is in a truly anaerobic condition (<.5mg/l oxygen). It could also then be said that phosphate accumulates in the bed in the more aerobic/ anoxic zones, however, that’s also not 100% accurate. In those areas it’s mostly bound to calcium where it’s quite stable because it’s very easy in those zones to maintain its electrical charge balance because of the surrounding diffusion of oxygen. Therefore, phosphate is usually not available for uptake in substrates unless directly associated with reducing conditions. Of course, the above relates to the bacteria that inhabit the bed, but in all fairness, there is also another aspect to consider, and that would be the impact of infauna on those various microbial processes. Whether worms or crustaceans, they depend on oxygen to live and have to link with the bulk water interface/ boundary, whereas microbes do not. Therefore, their tunneling effect can have positive and negative effects on the efficiency of various microbial processes. If phosphate is liberated to the bulk water, it’s in the form of orthophosphate, something not registered on aquarium phosphate test kits, and which can easily cause algae blooms if in excess. As to what size and type tunnelling creature would add or subtract benefits from the microbial processes is something not quantifiable in aquaria. Therefore, in my opinion, they are a wild card because no one can say how many or what type of infauna species is needed (or actually supply them), and that they would behave as hoped for and create a more balanced condition. Keep in mind infauna also ingest sources of phosphate and produce phosphate-laden wastes. Nevertheless, they are more movers of the compound than users. In my opinion, bacteria are predictable, infauna are not! As for a summation, if you’ve read the first three instalments, it should now be clear that biological filtration, i.e. bacteria using metabolism to transform matter/elements/compounds into energy for reproduction, and/or other forms of elements or compounds, are at the frontline when it comes to maintaining a healthy and balanced aquarium environment. In fact, that quest for such an environment may have unknowingly begun in 1950 with the first UGF called the “If phosphate is liberated to the bulk water, it’s in the form of orthophosphate, something not registered on aquarium phosphate test kits, and which can easily cause algae blooms if in excess” -–41 041-043_FiltrationPart4_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 19:17:14 Filtration Demystified - Bob Goemans A reef aquarium using a very fine layer of white sand area. French Invisible Filter, moved on in the mid’80s with the introduction of trickle filters, and then later on to systems based on live rock and improved equipment. Nevertheless, and somewhat unfortunately, the understanding of the associated microbes and their pathways in aquariums did not take a big leap forward until almost the mid-’90s, when there was major research by Sam Gamble and me into the anoxic sediment denitrification method conceived by Dr Jean Jaubert, the results of which were quite amazing and set the record straight as to what biological processes were really happening in several different-style sandbed systems, This resulted in giving aquarists an informed choice on what may better suit their desired system goals when it came to biological filtration. As to that research, it importantly showed among other things, that there were two forms of denitrification. One occurred where .5 to 2.0mg/l of oxygen existed, the anoxic zone where facultative anaerobic heterotrophs reduced nitrate back to nitrogen gas (called dissimilatory denitrification), and in a zone where less oxygen existed, more properly called the anaerobic zone, obligate anaerobic heterotrophs existed and reduced nitrate back to ammonium no further (called the ammonification process). As previously explained, in plenumequipped beds, almost the entire bed remained in a very efficient anoxic condition, but this was not the case in sandbeds placed directly on the aquarium bottom. In those situations, for example, using the common grain size of between 2-4mm and placed at a depth of 5cm (2ins), the first 1.25cm (.5ins) of depth houses the aerobic autotrophs that provide the reduction of inorganic ammonia to finally that of nitrate. Just below this area/ zone there’s a level of facultative anaerobic heterotrophs, let’s say another 1.25cm (.5ins) in depth, reducing some of the incoming nitrate to gaseous nitrogen, which sometimes appears as bubbles rising in the sand. Below that, probably the remaining 2.5cm (1ins) depending upon how clean the sand is, the bed consists of obligate anaerobic heterotrophs reducing the remaining incoming nitrate to ammonium no further. Ammonium produced in this area is either recycled back to nitrite and nitrate, then back to ammonium (again and again), and some of it may leach upwards into the bulk water, providing exactly the nutrient needed for improved algae growth. Unfortunately, we aquarists are unable to test for ammonium, but can often see its result in various forms of green algae growing on the substrate surface or elsewhere in the aquarium. If so, some are wondering at that time what causes this growth, as possibly their bulk water nitrates may be fairly low. Keep in mind that ammonium is the primary algae nutrient. A much deeper bed would simply have a far greater anaerobic area. Let’s now keep the same depth bed, but reduce its grain size to something like mud. We now have aerobic autotrophs and facultative anaerobic heterotrophs inhabiting possibly only the upper millimetre, with the remaining depth containing the obligate anaerobic heterotrophs. A wonderful arrangement if one’s desire is to propagate algae, such as in the current mudtype refugia. Last but not least, let’s simply take a bed of very fine sugar-size sand grains. I’ve often seen it recommended that this is the sand grain size to use because there are more grains, therefore more areas for microbes to colonise. It’s true there are more microbes, but that’s of no value for the closed system. Keep in mind that very fine grains pack together very tightly, thereby greatly reducing porewater volume. Anoxic conditions would then be restricted to an extremely shallow zone in this “Ammonium produced in this area is either recycled back to nitrite and nitrate, then back to ammonium (again and again), and some of it may leach upwards into the bulk water, providing exactly the nutrient needed for improved algae growth” Here is my very colourful office nano, equipped with a very shallow bed of crushed coral. type of sand, e.g. just below an upper shallow depth oxic area. Therefore, more valuable processes are greatly reduced because there are simply less suitable areas for them to colonise. That leaves the remainder of the bed depth for assimilatory denitrification. Basically it’s more bacteria but not the right volumes of the right classes of bacteria. Furthermore, hydrogen sulphide is a very real possibility in finer grain/mud-type beds. Nevertheless, if not disturbed and allowed to enter the bulk water, it generally presents no hazard to animals in the aquarium. However, in swamps/muddy environments, methane is another poisonous gas and it bubbles upwards on its own. Could this happen in aquaria using a mud-like substrate? I doubt it very much, but I did come by one disastrous happening that could have been its fault. That occurred about a year ago when an aquarist contacted me and said he’d found all his fishes dead one morning. He had a large mud system refugium that was almost 2 years old, no poisonous animals in the aquarium, and his husbandry skills in general were very good. We discussed the possibility, however, we couldn’t prove that methane was the cause of the deaths. He removed his mud 42–041-043_FiltrationPart4_MH006.indd 3 30/10/2011 19:17:16 Filtration Demystified - Bob Goemans system, and while doing so found areas having large areas of gas bubbles in the bed, but was not sure whether they were hydrogen sulphide (H2SO4) or methane. Nevertheless, he did say he didn’t detect the normal rotten egg odour associated with H2SO4, and since methane does not smell, really wondered about this happening. I must add, I’ve not heard of one other similar happening over the past, therefore, very possibly something else may have caused his loss and I must give mud systems a clear bill of health as to methane problems at this point in time. Also, in each of the above discussed beds, add the situations involving the important enzyme nitrogenase and the electrical charges that accompany various substances/matter in the aquarium, as described in the last issue, and then decide for yourself what form of sandbed is right for your planned system. Looking back, I can say I’ve learned a lot about different-style biological filtration aspects, especially where aquarium sandbeds are involved. Some of it has resulted in eye-opening details. So what lessons have I learned? First and foremost, I believe aquarists can be successful with any type of system if it’s planned correctly and the required husbandry is provided. Biological filtering devices, e.g. UGF, trickle filters, and sponge filters, to name a few, all have positive attributes if properly matched with the goals of the desired system and properly cared for. Nevertheless, it’s easier said than done in this world of always thinking there’s room for one more pretty specimen! Exceed the limits of what your form of biological filtration can provide and system balance is soon lost, and the struggles to regain it are extremely difficult, often quite expensive, and many times simply impossible to rectify without losses of livestock. Now armed with the information provided in the past articles, I often look back and wonder if aquarists have miscalculated the value of some types of sandbeds, and/or the use of excessive amounts of live rock, which, depending upon the porosity, basically contains the same microbial processes. In fact, those who say utilise deep beds and lots of live rocks because it will help A sump plenum attached to my reef system. lower nitrate accumulations are only somewhat a coating of coralline on the bottom. As for the correct. As you can see from past discussions, other smaller system in Hong Kong, it also began there’s much more to it, as it may have a far to have some coralline developing on the bottom greater impact on system health than the narrow in only 3 months. Both aquarists reported far less viewpoint on nitrate reduction. system maintenance, thriving corals, and no As for those expounding on the benefits of unwanted algae growths as time passed. As you infauna and meiofauna, they are good additions can see, my 320-gallon reef system setup in 1985 to the benthic scene, however, a hit-or-miss went that way and was very successful, however, benefit when compared to the overall benefit the first comment I always received was about provided by a large anoxic zone containing the lack of a substrate! energy-efficient bacteria. Yes, infauna aid with the Yes, aesthetics come into play where most mixing and grazing of detritus, which in turn helps aquarists are concerned, because they want supply microbes some nutrients/energy, but they a natural-looking environment with a white also expel wastes, and bacteria must process that sandy lagoon-like bottom area. That’s quite also. As to the value of infauna, I can calculate understandable, and for those who go down the zones where efficient or inefficient bacteria this road I highly recommend a shallow bed reside, but I can’t give marching orders to infauna directly on the bottom of the aquarium. It should to carefully and be limited to about evenly traverse 2.5-5cm (1-2ins) the depths of and utilise a grain my sandbeds size in the range of (bioturbation). about 2-5mm. Or However, that is simply use a very not to say they shallow sprinkling provide no value of sand. Moreover, at all, yet in my this recommended opinion, should grain size is small be considered a enough to prevent marginal benefit most detritus from when compared finding its way down to that of highly into the bed and efficient bacteria. accumulating. Finally, maybe Detritus will mostly a sandless/barestay on its surface This reef system was set up with a plenum directly on the bottom, bottom tank might and thrived exceptionally well until it was necessary to break it down, and can be because everything in the aquarium outgrew the available space! be of interest; easily siphoned, I’ve had the vacuumed, or opportunity to work with two aquarists in different used by surface detritus grazers. countries where they chose to go with bare The Jaubert method, especially when bottom reef systems. They wanted to easily stir up constructed in an interconnecting tank where any settling detritus with a jet of water and use it’s easy to maintain, possibly a sump, as used some of it as a foodstuff for their corals, or simply in my 180-gallon system, is another possibility to siphon out collecting deposits. Both encouraged consider. Then again, I’ve used a plenum directly coralline algae to cover the aquarium bottom in a past 125-gallon system and my corals by carefully monitoring calcium and alkalinity. outgrew the aquarium in record time! From what I understand, one of the aquariums, a Hopefully, the past discussions on sandbed 600-gallon system in Australia, quickly developed biological processes has helped some realise that if a closed system (aka aquarium), no matter what its physical size (home or public aquarium), contained more anoxic than anaerobic areas, as defined here in these articles, its bulk water may possibly contain far less nitrogen-laden products. In fact, it should be evident by this time that the denitrification path in an anoxic area is of far greater value than the denitrification path in anaerobic areas, as defined in this article. Since the volume of area accomplishing nitrification is usually fixed in closed systems, it’s wise, in my opinion, to concentrate on how to enlarge the volume of anoxic zones (again, defined in this article) and reduce those associated with anaerobic zones. Keep in mind that if an aquarist attempts to stuff 6lb of waste/bioload into a 5lb bag, he or she will no doubt have to resort to high-tech equipment to process the excesses. Hopefully you have found the information presented here useful, and even though a plenum-type system may not be desired, the results of years of testing have, without a doubt, broadened our understanding of the term ‘filtration’. What you do with the information presented here is up to you, but for sure, you can, if desired, move your aquarium system towards a more microbial balanced environment. BG EDITORS’ COMMENTS: Well, that’s the end of Bob’s four-part feature and judging by all the comments and letters we have had, this has been a very enjoyable learning curve. Let us know what you thought of Bob’s final part at [email protected] -–43 041-043_FiltrationPart4_MH006.indd 4 30/10/2011 19:17:18 1. NT Labs - Live Bacteria (50ml) RRP: £6.99 MORE INFO: www.ntlabs.co.uk You may think fishkeeping is about fish, but actually it’s about bacteria. NT Labs Marine Live Filter Bacteria is a concentrated blend of nitrifying bacteria formulated to start a biological filter instantly, in marine aquariums. All too often new hobbyists set up their marine tank, and immediately make their first mistake; they add fish. The fish then produce waste in the form of ammonia, but there is nothing to break down this waste because the good bacterium hasn’t established itself. This product can be used to help prevent the common cause of fish deaths from new tank syndrome. It contains a blend of bacteria specifically adapted to the marine environment, allowing them to begin the process of nitrification (breakdown of fish waste) as soon as they are added to the aquarium. This product has a dose rate of 10 drops per 10 litres, i.e. 10ml per 200 litres. It is sold in a volume of 50ml. 1 2. AquarioGest Saltwater - Reef Aquarium Software RRP: from £48 MORE INFO: reef.aquariogest.net The secret of a successful marine aquarium is to record and track the tank life. No doubt you have got bits of paper, perhaps a pad, or even spreadsheet on the go to keep track of tank costs, water stats, maintenance schedules and so on. Well why not consider bringing your tank documentation into the 21st century and invest in some software specifically designed to make all this much easier, and provide a central place to store all your tank-related information. The AquarioGest software simplifies the whole maintenance process. It is available as a live version, CD-Rom version, or Live + CD-Rom, and each allows you to easily manage all data for your aquariums, keep track of all your fish events, maintain your corals and inverts, track water changes and additives, schedule maintenance tasks, record all events in a real log book, log breeding’s and not to mention you can also manage all your tank expenses and incomes. 2 3. Red Sea - Coral Pro and Red Sea Salts (22kg) RRP: £89.99 and £74.99 MORE INFO: www.redseafish.com Unlike the natural reef environment, which has an immeasurable reservoir of all 57 elements, a reef aquarium is an artificial environment that is constantly affected by coral growth and other ongoing biological processes. These innovative salt formulas are designed to meet the needs of today`s advanced hobbyists. There are two salts available in the range, Coral Pro and Red Sea salts. Both are formulated for use with RO water, and both use the same raw materials, including the unique sodium chloride harvested from the Red Sea Reef, and each has optimally balanced ratios between the foundation elements. 3 “These innovative salt formulas are designed to meet the needs of today`s advanced hobbyists” Coral Pro Salt contains elevated levels of foundation elements set for accelerated coral growth, while Red Sea Salt contains natural levels set for mature aquariums and enhanced coral colouration. For a short but interesting video on how this product is produced, visit the website above. 44–044-045_GearGuide_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 19:24:39 4. D-D The Aquarium Solution - Reverse Osmosis (RO) Booster 4 RRP: £59.99 MORE INFO: www.theaquariumsolution.com For those of you who produce your own RO water, this product will really help efficiency. Suitable for any brand of RO Unit, this pump will significantly increase the volume of water from your unit. Generally, RO units will run at about 50% of their stated membrane capacity because the temperature of the water is never 25C and this is what the test is based on. Also, the pressure is never as high as the standard. By boosting the pressure with one of these units, you tend to get the full stated membrane volume - summer or winter. The increased pressure also improves the quality of the water through the membrane. 5. Food4Fish Firstbite LPS Coral Food (15g) RRP: £6.99 5 MORE INFO: www.food4fish.co.uk Recently launched to market along with its counterparts in the same range, this particular coral food is designed specifically for LPS corals. Where the SPS coral version has a very fine particular size, this is made up of a blend of larger particle for LPS corals and it goes through a unique production process, during which at no point do the ingredients rise above a temperature of 40°C. This ensures that the ingredients do not lose valuable nutrients and fatty acid profiles that are essential to the health and vitality of marine life. The production process also seals the food with a special coating, so no nutrients drain into your aquarium and therefore excellent water quality will be maintained. This food has been found to be irresistible to large polyp stony corals, but soft corals, fish and inverts are also highly attracted to this blend of foods. Available in 15g aluminium can complete with feeding equipment and instructions. 6. Tristan Lougher - What Invertebrate? RRP: £12.99 MORE INFO: www.amazon.co.uk ISBN: 978-1842861790 6 Published as part of Interpret’s range of What guide books. This 208-page book makes it quick and easy to access species details via single page profiles, and advice in the guide is bang up to date, helping hobbyists make the right buying decision with confidence. The variety of marine invertebrates available for the aquatic hobby is vast, and increasing every year. The success rate in maintaining invertebrates in captivity keeps rising with an increasing understanding of how these creatures live in the wild and the development of lifesupport systems that closely replicate the complex conditions found on a coral reef. Successful breeding and farming of invertebrates such as hard corals has reduced the impact of taking them from their endangered habitat in the tropical oceans. So how do you choose which invertebrates to feature in your display aquarium? This book dispels any confusion by presenting a selection of suitable species in logical categories, such as soft corals, hard corals, anemones, polychaete worms, shrimps, crabs and starfish - complete with full details of their compatibility and ongoing care. 7. Alteco - Epo Putty (100g) RRP: £4.70 7 MORE INFO: www.epoputty.co.uk Epo Putty is a clay-type two-part epoxy adhesive, and is fairly new to the UK market, but has been used very successfully by hobbyists in Asia and the US. Epo Putty is a two-part epoxy putty that when mixed in equal amounts cures to a rock-hard solid adhesive. Corals remain fixed to live rock, in fact the rock structures themselves remain solid if they have been constructed and fixed together using Epo Putty. It is easy to mix, it cures underwater (inc saltwater) as well as in the dry, and importantly, it DOES NOT remove oxygen from the water column in order to cure underwater. It doesn’t shrink after cure and, of course, it is aquarium safe. Epo Putty can be an easy alternative to drilling rocks and using acrylic rods to support their weight. True anti-gravity structures can be held together with ease. It doesn’t cloud the water when used underwater and it does not stop the skimmer performing, nor does it make it over-foam. This product is available in 50g, 100g or 500g packs. For a demo video on how this product works, visit the website above. -–45 044-045_GearGuide_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 19:24:50 GEARGUIDE GEARGUIDE Gear Guide Revealed - TMC Quick look Manufacturer TMC Product V²O³Zone Ozone Generator What is it? An Aquarium Steriliser Price RRP: £149.99 Availability Available at most good retailers Further Info tropicalmarinecentre.co.uk PREVENTION IS THE CURE Ozone has been used since the 1800s as a means of cleaning water for human consumption and is now extensively used in both home/public aquariums and fish-breeding systems. So let’s take a look at the TMC V²O³Zone Ozone Generator. Ozone (O3), is a triatomic allotrope consisting of three oxygen atoms. Ozone sterilisers can be used to prevent and eliminate saltwater ich infestations in saltwater or reef tank systems, as well as help rid aquariums of other water-borne diseases such as fungal, viral, and even algae blooms. Some of the key benefits identified are: • Ozone is more effective than many other water agents, breaking down fish waste products and allowing them to be removed/skimmed more easily • Ozone dissolves more readily in water than oxygen and then oxidises waste products, thereby raising the beneficial Redox/ORP level in the aquarium system. Higher ORP levels will also suppress and reduce the risk of parasitic bacterial and fungal infections • Ozone will typically produce clearer water, removing yellowing compounds and enhancing the vivid and contrasting colours of your fish, corals and plants. While there are some reported fears such as the possible poisoning of livestock, they are largely unfounded and can be avoided easily through the use of a protein skimmer. The benefits of Ozone far outweigh the dangers, assuming it is used correctly and inline with the manufacturer’s instructions. However, it is important that ozone is not introduced directly into the aquarium system, and only used with a compatible skimmer whereby it can dissipate before returning to the main water column. Not only should it be used with a protein skimmer, but it actually improves the skimming process. There is, of course, always more than one way to skin a cat, for example, you could choose to dose, or use an ultraviolet steriliser, but there are few alternatives quite as effective as an ozone system. “Ozone sterilisers can be used to prevent and eliminate saltwater ich infestations” Let’s take a look at exactly what this particular ozoniser does. The TMC V²O³Zone Ozone Generator will: • Raise oxidising levels (ORP) which helps to break down harmful waste products produced by fish, removing yellowing compounds and creating crystal-clear water • Suppress parasite, bacterial and fungal activity, providing a healthier environment for livestock in aquaria • Improve skimmer efficiency by converting fish waste into more easily removable by-products Some of the features of this unit include: • Programmable for 25-250mg/hr ozone using soft start PWM technology • Unique high purity ceramic ozone cell design with microprocessor-controlled fan cooling for highly efficient and reliable operation; • Inbuilt timer for 1-10 hours ozone generation in consecutive 12-hour periods • Splash-proof keyboard and LED front panel; • LED bar display for both the programmed ozone concentration and timer period • Blinking LED indication that ozone output is active; • It is suitable for marine and freshwater aquariums from 25-2500 litres A few tips on using the generator • Brackets are provided to attach the unit either flat on a horizontal surface or vertically on a wall • Make sure the unit is not positioned such that water could siphon from the skimmer back through the tubing to the unit • Where possible, use the unit with a skimmer that sucks air via a venture device because it creates a vacuum. This way, the ozone is far less likely to leak out • It is also recommended that the water leaving the skimmer passes through an activated carbon filter before re-entering the main aquarium • Finally, you should avoid allowing the water that leaves the skimmer to pass directly into a biological filter, as it is sensitive to low levels of ozone The specification of this product is as follows: • Ozone max output: 250mg per hour • Ambient operating temperature: 5 to 40°C • Power requirement: 11 watts at max ozone output • Max air flow: 10 litres per minute 46–046_GGR-TMC_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 11:28:17 Untitled-1.indd 5 30/10/2011 14:07:48 somewhat distor ted over me co be n ca cts fa y, bb ho y an With t eventually transform tha r cu oc n ca ers isp wh se ine time, and Ch d out the real truths and bust fin To . ion at orm inf ing ad sle mi into to dig deeper. the myths, we asked our experts Age: 27. Hometown: Liverpool, UK. This month in Myth-Buster, Dr Nick Bryan dispels some myths about the use of tap water in the aquarium. Full-time occupation: Research; my primary interest is prediction of the immune response to implantable devices. Marine experience: 12yrs. M y previous instalments discussed a number of myths surrounding aquarium disease management, with the goal of breaking down a few of the fundamentals in the treatment and prevention of aquatic disease, and how a thorough understanding of the task at hand can help you formulate a more targeted approach to achieving a healthy tank. Thus far, my contributions have been factual, however, in this instance I would like to instil a bit of debate focusing on a few of the myths surrounding the stealthy drain in our annual aquatic budgets, which is reverse osmosis (RO) water production. In this article I would like to discuss the myth that tap water is not safe in any instance for saltwater aquaria, and hopefully demonstrate that some marine aquaria can be run and maintained perfectly well based on potable tap water, and that perhaps the vast amount of grey water created as a result of RO production can be avoided. In this hobby we regularly follow the lead of our predecessors, without question of why we’re using a particular method or practice. We all fall foul of it, and I completely include myself in that; it’s easy. However, times do change and new opinions need to be sought, based on hobbyist first-hand experiences, rather than decades-old DR NICK BRYAN Aquarium size: Sumped 3x2x18 (Approx 300L). Favourite fish: Addis Butterfly, Crosshatch Trigger, Yellow Tang, Ventralis Anthias, Epaulette Shark. coral: Acanthophyllia, Trachyphyllia. other: Harlequin Shrimp. Duncanopsammia axifuga growing well in tap water with a TDS of approximately 90ppm. data that we’re now in a position to re-establish. You see this all the time, and the most topical one, I feel, of the last 12 months (I’m digressing here, but go with it for the time being!) surrounds Moorish Idols. These fish seem to be back in vogue, and every time you read an Internet forum where a potential purchaser does the correct duty of asking the opinion of others before purchase, they’re always met with the same response: ‘Avoid these, they’re impossible to keep.’ This stems from decades, literally decades-old information, from when import and collection practices were much less considerate to the welfare of livestock and this diva of a fish didn’t really fare well under these conditions. Nowadays these “hopefully my Idol ramble made the point that in this hobby it’s very easy to Chinese whisper your way into what sounds like an informed opinion” Here is my Trachyphyllia having now lived in tap water for approximately 3 years. Specialist areas: Aquatic chemistry and molecular biology. guys are brought in with a bit more TLC; they’re a perfectly keepable fish for anyone who has a couple of lines on their aquatic CV about getting slightly finicky fish settled into their aquarium. The advisors in this instance are regurgitating the decades-old information without consideration that revolutions in the hobby have occurred since the 1980s. Digression over; hopefully my Idol ramble made the point that in this hobby it’s very easy to Chinese whisper your way into what sounds like an informed opinion. However, there really isn’t any substitute for first-hand successes and failures and imparting these experiences, both positive and negative, to your marine colleagues. This is what I’ll try to do here concerning tap water. So, what are the potential problems with tap water that may have a direct consequence on our livestock? Firstly, water treatments; most commonly the form of halogens and halogenated stuff, so chlorine and chloramines mainly. These are added to drinking water to neutralise pathogens, which may be detrimental to human health. Is it possible that they could negatively affect our aquaria? Chlorine and its derivatives are included in tap water to kill off bacteria, so it would be reasonable to assume they may have the same antimicrobial effect in our systems. The good news is that it’s relatively easy to remove. Most simply, chlorine itself is a volatile gas. If you leave a vessel of water with a pump and there is plenty of surface agitation, the chlorine will make its way out of the solution quite rapidly – chloramines, however, will not. There are plenty of dechlorinators on the market that can be safely added as a precursor to a salt mix. These are usually sulphur-containing compounds (hence the trademark smell), which mop up the chlorine into something molecularly not a million 48–056_057_Mythbusters_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 19:10:56 Myth-Buster - Dr Nick Bryan miles away from table salt. Chloramine chemically is a bit more challenging to remove, however, there are plenty of products on the market to deal with this if you seek out a bottle which specifically states that it removes chloramines. But it is possible, without thorough consideration for the consequences of the interaction of chloramines with commercial dechlorinators, to end up with ammonia as a by-product. To avoid this, test your water preparation for this the first time you use a dechlorinator, to make sure that the manufacturers have calculated this in their design, and included an additional preparation to neutralise any residual ammonia. While on the subject of halogenation of drinking water, it’s worth raising the point of fluoridation. The addition of fluoride to drinking water is something that certain councils in the UK have adopted in a bid to do their bit to help the nation’s increasing rates of tooth decay. Additions of fluoride to tap water are sporadic across the UK; check with your local water authority as to whether it is a practice they are undertaking. There is a lot of controversy over this from a human health perspective, let alone fish. Personally, I don’t live in an area where drinking water is subject to fluoridation, and I probably should have confessed to this earlier, but I do use tap water in my systems. Would I still do it if I lived in an area which did administer fluoride? Absolutely – in a small closed system, in the spirit of developing a first-hand experience of its suitability rather than writing it off based on media spin. So, halogens out of the way, the next worry is organic pollutants, which may make it into our potable water as safe for human consumption, but may cause inappropriate bacterial/algal balances in aquariums, namely nitrate, phosphate and silicate. It is possible that these compounds could end up in your aquarium through the tap water supply. The most straightforward way to avoid this is to test the water before adding it to your aquarium. It’s amazing how many people spend fantastic amounts of time and money in the balance of your salt mix? This can go both obtaining the correct balances and molecular ways; the one to pay particular attention to is intricacies once the water is in the tank, without carbonate. Remember, more often than not, salt knowing anything of note about its parameters blends are engineered with RO in mind. They will before it goes in. A wise aquarist once used be designed, or certainly quality controlled in the the phrase, ‘If you look after the water, the case of desalinated salts, to mix with a carbonate inhabitants will look after themselves.’ That phrase hardness of 8-10dkH, for example. However, if is now commonplace and is still very much the you are mixing this salt, not using RO but with a case. Test the water before it goes in; check starting solution of tap water with a carbonate for nitrates, phosphates and silicates in the tap hardness of perhaps 3-5dkH in a hard water area, water. At the end of the day, if these are present then this is an additive to the desired kH of your at values you’re not happy with, then don’t use salt mix. The values will be skewed, and this will it. There isn’t much you can do about it (with the knock on the equilibrium between carbonate and exception of phosphate, which is straightforward calcium, and so your to remove using parameters become your favourite less than optimal proprietary before you’ve even phosphate added it to the tank. remover). Although I’m quite an However, based advocate of trying on the limitations tap water in marine of aquatic test systems, this is one kits, if you have of the times when it never tried this, becomes flawed. I’m don’t be too not sure if drinking surprised if the water is ever so hard tap water is that it could destroy reading exactly the equilibrium so the same as your that it affects things RO output. like hardy soft and Also, just a note large polyped stony about this current corals, but for the school of thought Acanthophyllia deshayesiana living in Nick’s very own tap water system. dedicated SPS that every system, where every dissolved organic millimole of calcium is accounted for, perhaps is immeasurable. There is absolutely nothing wrong tap water isn’t for you. Again, as with nitrate and with a couple of ppm of nitrate. It’s not going to phosphate, test it; test the tap water, and see turn your system green, and it’s not going to zap what you make of it before investing in the your corals brown. Tap water with 5ppm nitrate, or RO gear. the cost of generating RO to get this out? It’s tap Lastly, the issue of heavy metals, copper and water for me, every time. iron mainly, and to a lesser extent, additional Next we come onto magnesium, calcium metals such as lead. The details of concentrations and carbonate. These are present in tap water, of all these elements are available as free and the question you have to ask yourself is information from your water suppliers. A simple this: will the concentrations be enough to skew phone call should get you an email with all this data. It varies from source to source. Often these are naturally occurring elements dissolved from rocks, soils and sediments into the water’s source, and are not removed as part of the treatment process if they fall below European drinking water standards. Needless to say, copper can be tested using a standard aquarium test kit (in my first article I discussed some of the pitfalls to bear in mind when choosing a copper test). So there we have it – tap water busted. With a small amount of consideration for the aspects of water treatment and water constituents that have the potential to damage our inhabitants, we can potentially alleviate the time and expense associated with RO water production. Have a think about it. It won’t be for everyone; there will be instances in the UK where water really doesn’t fall within acceptable boundaries for use in aquaria, but there are plenty of homes where the RO units can be replaced with water directly from the mains supply, with no negative consequences to the inhabitants. This isn’t taking a step backwards. The way that household water is delivered, and the standards which potable water needs to meet, have changed since the days when the rumours surrounding its negative effects began to circulate. Have a think about it, do some tests, and formulate your own opinion. Enjoy your fish. NB -–49 056_057_Mythbusters_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 19:11:19 Shop Profile - Marine Habitat 2 1 3 In this issue... Calico Aquatics In each issue we will be scouring the UK to bring you three fantastic LFS profiles. In addition, each will offer an unmissable £10 off voucher when spending over £50 on livestock. The time to stock up is NOW! 1 Cumbria Christal Clear Waters 2 East Yorkshire Tropical Paradise 3 Hampshire CALICO AQUATICS ADDRESS: Greenacres, Plumpton, Penrith, Cumbria, CA11 9PF TELEPHONE: 01768 894366 EMAIL: [email protected] WEBSITE: www.calicoaquatics.co.uk OPENING TIMES: Mon-Sat – 10:00-17:30; Sun – 11:00-16:00 Calico has been running as a marine aquatic shop for 14 years, specialising in everything marine. Calico have top class filtration facilities split into two separate systems; The fish only system consists of fluidised sand bed filters, trickle towers, protein skimmers, ozone injectors and UV sterilisers filtering 30,000 litres of water. The other system is filtered by two tonnes of live rock, protein skimmers and a fluidised reactor. They also have a well-established 5 metre display tank – well worth a visit in its own right! It was installed over 8 years ago and contains established corals and a great variety of reef fish. This aquarium is now the main feature of our new café, which serves a great range of hot and cold food including all day breakfast, baguettes, burgers, homemade cakes & scones, and a great value afternoon tea for only £6.50. Martin, Chris & Ian are always on hand to offer honest, well researched advice, both to novice fish keepers and experts regardless to the amount of money they have to spend or the size of system they own. Martin can arrange the design and build of any system to your exact requirements at a very competitive price. He will even help install your system and help get you up and running. Calico stock up to a ton of living rock, (originating from Indonesia) in a variety of shapes and sizes. Order online or by telephone for next day delivery. 50–050-051_ShopProfile_MH006.indd 1 MARINE HABITAT SHOP PROFILE DEAL VOUCHER GET £10 OFF WHEN YOU SPEND OVER £50 ON LIVESTOCK Marine Habitat magazine is working together with Calico Aquatics to bring you this fantastic deal. Use this voucher to receive £10 off when you spend over £50 on livestock. Full name: Address: Postcode: Telephone: SAVE £10! Mobile: Email: TERMS & CONDITIONS: Voucher can only be used once and MUST be filled in. Only one voucher can be used per transaction. Voucher cannot be used in conjunction with other offers and cannot be exchanged for cash. Original voucher must accompany purchases. Vouchers valid until 31st December 2011. Counterfeit vouchers will not be accepted. Compensation in respect of lost, stolen or damaged vouchers will not be issued. For any problems with this voucher, please contact the store or email [email protected] DON’T FORGET TO CHECK OUR EVER-GROWING LFS DATABASE AT WWW.MARINEHABITATMAGAZINE.COM/LFS 22/11/2011 00:10:42 Shop Profile - Marine Habitat CHRISTAL CLEAR WATERS ADDRESS: Skirlaugh Garden & Aquatic Centre, Hall Road, Skirlaugh HU11 5AH TELEPHONE: 01964 562413 EMAIL: [email protected] WEBSITE: christalclearwaters.webs.com OPENING TIMES: Mon-Fri – 9:30-17:00; Sat 9:00-17:00; Sun – 10:30-16:30 Christal Clear Waters is a franchisee of Skirlaugh Garden & Aquatic Center based in East Yorkshire. This shop offers a fantastic and varied range of products, covering not only marine but also tropical, coldwater and reptile. On the marine front, in addition to the many mainstream brands like Seachem, Red Sea, Tetra and so on, they are also stockists of some more specialised brands such as Epo-Putty and Reef Float. This shop offers not only rows of tanks housing stunning livestock but also multiple feature reef tanks(display only) and two large specialised coral tanks displaying the most vibrant, healthy and exciting corals. Although the website is still under construction, you will find a link on there to a video tour around the store which will give you a better idea of the size and range of products and livestock offered. Christal Clear Waters pride themselves on quality service, which includes expert advice and excellent after sales. You will find competitive prices and quality livestock. MARINE HABITAT SHOP PROFILE DEAL VOUCHER GET £10 OFF WHEN YOU SPEND OVER £50 ON LIVESTOCK Marine Habitat magazine is working together with Christal Clear Waters to bring you this fantastic deal. Use this voucher to receive £10 off when you spend over £50 on livestock. Full name: Address: Postcode: Telephone: SAVE £10! Mobile: Email: TERMS & CONDITIONS: Voucher can only be used once and MUST be filled in. Only one voucher can be used per transaction. Voucher cannot be used in conjunction with other offers and cannot be exchanged for cash. Original voucher must accompany purchases. Vouchers valid until 31st December 2011. Counterfeit vouchers will not be accepted. Compensation in respect of lost, stolen or damaged vouchers will not be issued. For any problems with this voucher, please contact the store or email [email protected] TROPICAL PARADISE AQUATICS ADDRESS: Unit 4, Boyatt Wood Shopping centre, Eastleigh, Hampshire SO50 4QP TELEPHONE: 02380 612996 WEBSITE: www.tropicalparadiseaquatics.com OPENING TIMES: Mon-Sat – 9:00-17:30 Sun – 10:00-16:00 Tropical Paradise Aquatics is a family run business which has been trading for over 10 years in the Boyatt Wood store. You will always be made welcome by the very experienced and friendly staff. They stock a huge range of aquatic food and accessories and you can find one of the biggest selections of marine fishes, corals and inverts in the South of England. Tropical Paradise also stocks a superb selection of tropical fishes and plants including many unusual species. The store maintains 6000 litres worth of marine fish tanks, 3000 litres worth of live corals and inverts tanks, and another 3000 litres worth of tropical and fancy goldfish tanks. The store has over 500 corals in stock at any one time. Tropical Paradise also supplies good quality live fish food and 2500 litres worth of live rock holding capacity. In addition to a wonderful store which you can wonder in and see all the livestock in its full glory, Tropical Paradise Aquatics also offers an online shopping facility. MARINE HABITAT SHOP PROFILE DEAL VOUCHER GET £10 OFF WHEN YOU SPEND OVER £50 ON LIVESTOCK Marine Habitat magazine is working together with Tropical Paradise Aquatics to bring you this fantastic deal. Use this voucher to receive £10 off when you spend over £50 on livestock. Full name: Address: Postcode: Telephone: SAVE £10! Mobile: Email: TERMS & CONDITIONS: Voucher can only be used once and MUST be filled in. Only one voucher can be used per transaction. Voucher cannot be used in conjunction with other offers and cannot be exchanged for cash. Original voucher must accompany purchases. Vouchers valid until 31st December 2011. Counterfeit vouchers will not be accepted. Compensation in respect of lost, stolen or damaged vouchers will not be issued. For any problems with this voucher, please contact the store or email [email protected] DON’T FORGET TO CHECK OUR EVER-GROWING LFS DATABASE AT WWW.MARINEHABITATMAGAZINE.COM/LFS 050-051_ShopProfile_MH006.indd 2 -–51 22/11/2011 00:10:55 NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD THAT MATTERS TO YOU EVOLUTIONARY MYSTERIES OF ANCIENT SEAS Aquarist Tom Prakash with a megalodon shark tooth and for comparison, the tooth of a black-tipped reef shark. WINNERS OF THE BRITISH WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY AWARDS 2011 Now in its third year, the acclaimed BWPA competition has created another stunning showcase of British wildlife. The winning image of a jellyfish was captured by Richard Shucksmith. His photo was taken at Sula Sgeir (meaning Gannet Rock), a small uninhabited Scottish island, 41 miles north of Lewis. The inhospitable area is home to exposed islands sustaining an astounding variety of marine life. The remoteness of these islands, as well as the challenge that comes with visiting them, makes Richard’s incredible photo all the more special. Greg Armfield, photography and film manager from WWF, said, “A truly beautiful shot of a jellyfish that perfectly captures its iridescent colours and magical qualities. All the more remarkable that it exists in UK waters. Fantastic!” Competition judge Paul Wilkinson, head of Living Landscape for The Wildlife Trusts, said, “We are delighted to see how many people from around the UK were inspired by the competition to explore nature in their local area. This year’s entries reflected a real passion, and affection, for local wildlife. This competition is a special opportunity to give the natural world that surrounds us the recognition, and reverence, it deserves.” Competition For more detailed information about the competition, including how to enter, list of categories, shooting tips, and terms and conditions, please visit the competition website: www.bwpawards.co.uk Exhibition BWPA are delighted that a year-long touring exhibition of around 70 images will travel throughout England, Scotland and Wales. Full details of the nationwide tour are available at: www.bwpawards.org/page/exhibitions. 52–052-054_NewsRoundup_MH006.indd 1 Scientists are to study tiny particles trapped inside shark teeth, in a bid to unravel evolutionary mysteries of ancient seas. The project could cast light on the reasons behind sudden surges of evolution, and perhaps help explain sudden mass extinctions like the mysterious disappearance of the 60-foot prehistoric megalodon shark 1.6 million years ago, after ruling the world’s oceans for 14 million years. A team from the University of Birmingham has enlisted the aid of Sea Life centres in the UK and Europe to help with the first phase of their research, which will be to analyse teeth discarded by the sharks in Sea Life ocean tanks. “By examining oxygen isotopes in the teeth, the scientists can tell what temperature the water was that the shark lived in,” said Birmingham Sea Life curator Graham Burrows. “They want to prove this with as many different teeth from as many different shark species from our displays as they can, and then go on to study fossil teeth,” he added. “Knowing what temperature the sea was in the periods that the teeth come from can help explain prehistoric changes in life in our oceans.” The research is being led by Dr Ivan Sansom, the University’s senior lecturer in Palaeobiology. “Other work in the field has suggested that cooling waters were a factor in driving major evolutionary changes whilst warming waters led to extinctions. With the current evidence for warming oceans, the evidence from the past suggests we are going to see a major extinction in our oceans. Reconstructing past climate systems, using evidence such as that we hope to find in shark teeth, may help us understand what happened in the past, and what may happen in the future.” The mighty megalodon was a close relative of the modern great white shark, but its vast size enabled it to prey on creatures as large as whales. Scientists speculate that cooling seas were what caused them to die out, but Dr Sansom’s research could offer more evidence on the mystery. The initial research (funded by the EU’s Marie Curie Fellowship scheme), involving teeth collected from the bed of Sea Life centre ocean tanks, will take 2 years to complete. While Dr Sansom’s work could help in forecasting climatic impact on the oceans, Sea Life centres will focus more on man’s impact, and in particular on the world’s shark species, when they host activities in support of European Shark Week. Tens of millions of sharks are killed annually as by-catches, or to provide fins for shark fin soup. Many species are already teetering on the brink of oblivion, and the Shark Weeks will feature a host of activities highlighting their plight, and be seeking to persuade visitors of the need to protect rather than persecute sharks. SHIPWRECK EXPERTS STRIKE SILVER! In a fantastic exploration adventure, shipwreck explorers have uncovered 7,000,000 ounces of silver, worth £600,000, according to the valuation at the time. That is £132m at today’s prices. Odyssey Marine Exploration located the wreck of the SS Gairsoppa in international waters, around 300 miles off the coast of Ireland. After being sunk by Germans in February 1941, whilst leaving India with its cargo, the boat had low fuel supplies and became separated from the rest of its convoy. The Germans then torpedoed it, and only one of the 32 crew survived. The wreck is now 4,700m (2.92 miles) below the surface, with video and photo footage of the Gairsoppa being obtained by the team after sending a remotely operated vehicle to the wreck. Neil Cunningham Dobson, Odyssey’s principal marine archaeologist, said: “Even though records indicate that the lifeboats were launched before the ship sank, sadly, most of her crew did not survive the long journey to shore. By finding this shipwreck and telling the story of its loss, we pay tribute to the brave merchant sailors who lost their lives.” The contract to recover the wreck was awarded to Odyssey by the government in 2010. As part of the deal, the company will retain 80% of the value of the silver recovered. FOR ALL THE LATEST NEWS STRAIGHT TO YOUR INBOX SIGN UP 30/10/2011 18:53:07 FO UP FOR MORE NEWS GO TO WWW.MARINEHABITATMAGAZINE.COM BUSINESS IS GOING SWIMMINGLY FOR FISH FOODS EXPERT A substantial expansion of its product range, prestigious contracts extended and increased in number, and new export markets entered, have meant extra positions created at New Era, the world-leading Doncaster-based fish nutrition specialist in pioneering fish foods for the home aquarist and commercial aquarium. New Era has appointed Andy Mallory as the company’s first international marketing coordinator, and Joann Kelly as sales administrator. Having run his own marketing agency, and been responsible for several local companies’ marketing operation, 34-year-old Balby-born Andy is now applying his proven experience to handling all aspects of New Era’s marketing activity. This includes high-profile aquatic exhibitions and conferences in the UK and overseas, POS display, corporate literature, packaging and website design, advertising, and working with the company’s PR consultant. Thirty-seven-year-old Joann, who was also born locally, a self-employed office administrator after many years in similar roles, now deals with product orders from first received through to the delivery of the right products, in the right quantity, and on time. With the company’s expansion into other parts of the world, many overseas deliveries are shipped daily, generating excessive paperwork, which is also Joann’s responsibility. Andy said: “Both Joann and I are thoroughly enjoying the exciting challenges and immense satisfaction of being part of an enthusiastic, capable team, which makes New Era such a progressive and ground-breaking company.” New Era now supplies more than 60 public aquaria in the UK, Europe, Australia, North America and New Zealand, and has signed 15 new contracts across Europe, Australia and the UAE. In addition, 25 more distributors have been appointed throughout Europe, the UAE, North America, the Far East, South East Asia and South Africa. THANK YOU HARRY RAMSDEN’S More good news on the Icelandic whaling front – Harry Ramsden’s, the UK’s best-loved fish and chip shop, supports the campaign. They have joined Findus, the major UK supermarkets, and many award-winning fish and chip shops in the assurance that they will not buy fish linked to whaling. HUMAN EFFECTS ON CORAL DECLINE GETS MESSY A recent issue of the online journal PLos ONE has discovered that faecal matter from humans can now be added to the long list of problems causing the decline of corals in our seas. Along with global warming and acidification in our oceans, it seems there is another dilemma to add to the problem. UNI STUDENT ON AQUACULTURE FOR CONSERVATION A TIPPING POINT FOR ICELANDIC WHALING? After more than a quarter of a million protests were sent by supporters of WDCS and partner organisations, President Obama recently issued a strongly worded statement that fires a warning shot across Iceland’s bows if its fin whaling does not stop for good. Although the President did not go as far as had hoped by imposing trade sanctions on Iceland, he directed his administration to review its diplomatic relationship with Iceland, potentially including cancelling meetings with Icelandic officials and withdrawing funding for NEWS IN BRIEF joint projects in the Arctic. Iceland did not undertake any fin whaling this summer, blaming reduced markets in Japan following the tsunami in March, but it has given no indication that it intends to stop killing endangered fin whales. If Iceland resumes fin whaling, President Obama has sought an immediate report from his officials, suggesting that the door remains open for punitive economic measures against Iceland by the US in the future. Months of effort have paid off. The petition and messages of support reached the President’s desk and he took it seriously. There is an optimistic feeling that strong action by the US will help bring an end to this cruel and archaic industry in Iceland. Bournemouth University student Sean Graham, of the department of Conservation Ecology, has created a research project entitled ‘Aquaculture for Conservation’, in an effort to reduce the fishing pressure on heavily exploited marine species, and to place greater reliance on fish species that are sustainably farmed. FIDDLER CRABS KEEPING COOL Dr Zachary Darnell and assistant professor Pablo Munguia from the University of Texas, US, discovered that fiddler crabs with their giant claws still intact were able to cool themselves more rapidly than those without, which demonstrates that the claw helps control temperature, as well as attracting female species… very cool Mr Fiddler! DOLPHIN DIES IN ZOO SHOW A freak accident at the Brookfield Zoo in Chicago, USA, saw bottlenose dolphin Nea lose her life after a collision with another dolphin. The 4-year-old dolphin was in the training pool when staff heard a strange noise and found her unconscious; resuscitation attempts failed. BEACHED WHALE FOUND ASHORE IN YORKSHIRE Staff at the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust have commented on a 33ft beached whale found dead 800 metres inshore in the Humber Estuary in Skeffling, East Yorkshire. “It is sad. It was in shallow water of about 4ft-5.25ft, making contact with the bottom,” said Andy Gibson. “This was about 800m offshore. When it gets in that situation, it rolls onto its side and it can cover its blowhole.” “Sometimes whales come into shallow water looking for food and get stuck,” added Kirsten Smith, North Seas manager at Yorkshire Wildlife Trust. “With the high tide, the whale probably got carried up onto the salt marsh, got pushed back further inshore, and then got stuck when the tide went out.” Marine experts have been left baffled and are ‘95% sure’ the whale is a female from the rare Sei species – only three of which have been found stranded on the British coast in the last 20 years. In September this year, a fin whale washed up dead near Spurn Point, North East Lincolnshire, after getting stranded at Immingham. Yorkshire Wildlife Trust has seen a rise in whale sightings over the last year, but staff are unable to explain the increase in the North Sea. FOR OUR NEWSLETTER WWW.MARINEHABITATMAGAZINE.COM 052-054_NewsRoundup_MH006.indd 2 -–53 30/10/2011 18:53:12 FOR MORE NEWS GO TO WWW.MARINEHABITATMAGAZINE.COM Test with the best! 18 professional Test Kits for the reliable analysis of vital water parameters in your aquarium and pond. ! NEWys the e pla ang Dis um r im opt AN EXTRAORDINARY LIFE FORM IN AQUARIUMS JBL’s research team has been sent rare pictures and a few questions which are of interest to all aquarium keepers. Fungi or moulds as the cause of diseases are not exactly popular among aquarium keepers. However, there are also rare species of fungi or moulds that are harmless and have a very unique way of life: The slime moulds or slime fungi (Eumycetozoa). Slime moulds possess features of both fungi and animals. Despite their name, they do not belong to the fungi or moulds, and instead, represent a separate line of development in evolution. The common features of the slime moulds comprise amoeboid locomotion (plasmodium), which can sometimes be rather fast, and transformation of the plasmodium into spore-bearing fruiting bodies. They feed on litter (detritus) in the aquarium by engulfing the food particles and then ingesting them (phagocytosis). Of approx. 1,200 recognised species, only a very few can live aquatically, i.e. underwater on a permanent basis. The genus didymium, which may be rare in aquariums with different species, is one of these groups. Species of didymium live outdoors on hydrangeas among other places, so they are not found exclusively underwater. In an aquarium, they tend to live on the bottom where the aquarium keeper doesn’t notice them. They do occasionally come out of the underground though, spreading over rocks, roots and aquatic plants in the form of white mesh networks. In this phase they can reach speeds of up to several centimetres per hour, so they can appear in different places and then disappear again quickly. Combating them with remedies such as JBL Fungol or other treatments against fungal diseases has no effect. They are harmless to plants and fish, so they do not pose any threat. If you wish to remove them from your tank, the only option is to disinfect the tank completely with JBL Desinfekt, and replace or disinfect all the furnishings, since they exhibit enormously high growth rates and can regenerate from the tiniest of fragments. ✔ Accurate laboratory system to compare colours precisely, taking water discolouration into account ✔ Quick and easy instructions on the back of waterproof colour charts ✔ Tested and used by the leading public aquarium worldwide. Make JBL your first choice! www.JBL.de 54–052-054_NewsRoundup_MH006.indd 3 30/10/2011 18:53:24 JENNY LOWMAN Age: 45. Hometown: London. Occupation: NHS cancer treatment technician. Marine experience: 4 years. Tank size: 155L (one of four running marine tanks). Tank start date: June 2009. ONE TANK IS Favourite fish: All pufferfish. coral: Acans and my stunning Red and Green Trachy. other: My sand conches, Hootie and Blowfish. NEVER ENOUGH! In this issue we feature the lovely Jenny Lowman, or as many of you may know her on the forums, Jennybugs. Jenny takes us through her home sea zoo (she’s literally devoted most of her house to our fishy friends), and explains why she loves marines so much. I am most commonly known as Jennybugs, and I have a problem – I love setting up fish tanks! I’ve been converted to all things salty for 4 years now, and I surprised myself with how much it appealed to me. My fishkeeping hobby had a bumpy start (like many of my age group, maybe), when at the tender age of 7 I won a common goldfish at the local fair; it was kept in a plastic ‘tank’ with rainbow gravel, a bridge, some pondweed, and had weekly 100% water changes straight from the tap. ‘Alex’ lived for 8 years, and I didn’t get another tank until the start of 2007. I got my first tropical tank, a biOrb 30 (don’t you dare laugh!), and with it came a surprising amount of flaming in the form of insults (from the fishkeeping forums), all aimed at my lovely round little tank. These warriors soon quietened down when my tank matured and flourished, and thus more tanks with (and without) corners started to appear. I soon realised my passion for pufferfish and fancy goldfish, and branched out from two tanks to four – then five (who can resist the gaze of Dwarf Puffers and smiley Figure 8 Puffers?), six, seven and eight (but bettas are SO stunning!), then nine (well, I’ve never tried shell-dwelling cichlids before), ten, eleven and twelve! Yes – 12 running tanks. Many of these were nano tanks, and as you can imagine, I didn’t need table lamps because there were tanks in nearly every room I used in the house – good on the electric because many of them had LED units! Anyway, I lost a few bettas over the next year, and that’s when I decided to cut down on the number of tanks and start reading up on marine fishkeeping, or more precisely, corals and critters, as that was what fascinated me at the time. A year later (I like my research), I felt ready to take the plunge. I decided to go for a plug ’n’ play tank to start with, which I could modify to run simply but effectively, and I went for a DD24-gallon nanocube. I wanted a tank that would grow into a nice little reef, which looked interesting and full of colour when you first looked at it, and then as you looked more, you’d notice a few small fish in the rockwork, and some critters crawling about to add a different dimension. The setting up and running of the tank was surprisingly smooth. I got good advice from experienced keepers on many different forums (I happily joined Chris and the gang when The Salty Box was born), and I found a couple of great LFS in Epping and Cambridge that I still use regularly. My corals flourished and I got to try out a good mix of SPS, LPS, soft corals, and small fish and critters. I soon learnt that some shops will tell you anything to sell you an expensive coral – “Well we’ve never seen sweeper tentacles that long on one of them before!” – and that’s how I got to love doing my own research prior to any purchases. Eight months on (having sworn I’d never upgrade because I loved my nanocube so much), I didn’t count on Fluval making a simply stunning range of tanks like the Osaka! I picked the 155L, purely because of the cost and space limitations, and I fell in love immediately. It’s such a nice tank, even though the curved corners can be a pain to clean, but maintenance-wise it doesn’t take much to look after it. I took to this tank very happily after the initial feelings of ‘what am I going to fill it with?’I added a nice Deltec MCE600 skimmer, along with an Arcadia Overtank Luminaire for 4x24W T5 bulbs. I decided to try to concentrate on keeping small rock-bound fish and further my experience in LPS corals because they’re my passion. I wanted to keep the tank nice and basic, so had no thoughts of adding a sump or suchlike, and I relied on my skimmer and weekly 10-15% water changes to keep things tiptop with mid-weekly RO top-ups, where necessary, by hand. The tank blossomed in its simplicity, and I was happy. Soon it got to the stage where I was running out of room to squeeze in more corals, and sadly, heart problems hit me and kept me quiet for some time, but I managed, with the help of my wonderfully patient partner Darren, to keep up the maintenance of weekly water changes without causing me too much trouble health-wise. -–55 055-058_HobbyistsProfile_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 19:04:20 Hobbyist Profile - Jenny Lowman In association with 54–055-058_HobbyistsProfile_MH006.indd 3 30/10/2011 19:04:29 Hobbyist Profile - Jenny Lowman In association with TANK SIZE 155L (34 imperial gallons) LIGHTING Arcadia Luminaire 4x24w T5 — Korallen Zucht Coralight Super Blue x2, Fiji Purple x1, Coralight New Gen 14000K x1. PHOTO PERIOD 1 hour moonlight LEDS, 1 hour 2x24W blue and purple, 9 hours 4x24W full, 1 hour 2x24W blue and purple, 1 hour moonlight LEDS. SUMP No thank you. AQUARIUM FLOW 1x Korallia 3 and 1x Korallia 1 circulation pumps, plus a Fluval 305 external filter. HEATING AND COOLING Fluval M150 mirrored heater, Azoo twin cooling fans, both running on an ATC 800+. Blastomusa, Acanthastreas, turbinara. soft Ricordeas, mushrooms, zoanthids, Cabbage Leather. AQUARIUM FILTRATION Live rock, in the external filter I run Seachem Purigen, Aqua-CARB Carbon, Ultra Phos phosphate remover, Seachem de-Nitrate nitrate remover, filter floss changed weekly. FISH Tank-bred Percula Clownfish, Royal Gramma, Pygmy Possum Wrasse, Pink Scooter Blenny, a pair of Watchman Gobies, Green Coral Goby, Leopard Toby Puffer, three Blue Eyed Cardinals. CORALS SPS Red and green Plating Montipora. LPS Yellow Tipped Torch, Single Cell Cream Frogspawn, Red and Green Ultra Trachyphillia, Green Scholymia, Australian Duncans, Red and Green OTHER LIVESTOCK Black Brittle Starfish, two Sand Conches, Tuxedo Urchin, Red Leg and Green Dwarf Hermit Crabs, Giant Mexican Turbo Snails. After a somewhat alarming operation, where I had to be awake for 5 hours while cardiologists probed and electrified parts of my heart, I came out the other side bruised and battered, but otherwise well, and as a ‘glad you’re better’ present from Darren, along came a marine nano tank in the shape of the then-new Fluval Edge, and I couldn’t wait to get stuck in! Once again, it was a simple affair (as are all my tanks) with a couple of small fish, and I was hoping it would be filled with sexy shrimp and pompom crabs. I got the latter and only one sexy shrimp at the time, and it flowed along really well, until one weekend when I was away overnight and a small snail crawled up over the HOB. It made its way not up the filter intake but the outflow, and into the impellor area of the filter. It jammed it completely, thus stopping the flow of water, which was crucial to the oxygenation of the tank. I lost both my small fish (a great little barnacle blenny and a fattening-up scooter blenny) and all the critters, which up until then had been doing very well. I decided to turn it into a coldwater marine tank after I was given some beadlet anemones. Having researched them, it seemed only natural to turn the Edge into a coldwater beadlet tank, and it stayed that way until I moved them all to an AquaEl 25L bowl, which is still going strong. I couldn’t leave the Edge empty for long though, and soon became attracted to mini maxi or a blob of DD paste, or a mix of frozen foods, such as enriched brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, krill, lobster eggs once a day (evening), nori for the conches every few days, a nightly feed of phytoplankton every night at the end of the moonlight phase. TANK STATS Salinity: 1.025 Calcium: 440ppm DKH: 12dKH pH: 8.3 Phosphate: 0 Nitrate: 0 Magnesium: 1350ppm Lighting: 4x24W T5s FEEDING REGIME A pinch of New Era Aegis marine food, nems. I set the tank back up and left it to do its thing with rock and sand from my other tanks, and I had a word with my favourite shops to see if they had mini maxis in stock or could get some in for me. I now have five lovely anemones in the tank, with some of their symbiotic shrimp and a few zoas. I’ve recently added a troupe of sexy shrimp, and a small squat lobster spends its days hiding away from me in the rockwork. It’s a pleasure to look at but still a pain to clean, although I have no plans to shut it down. I must get round to suspending the T5 light unit from the ceiling above it though – the tins of chopped tomatoes it is standing on at the moment don’t really do the tank justice! was attacking my softies, so it had to go. Did it work? I should say so! My tank, some 6 months later, has really picked up, and is finally getting somewhere along the route to its former glory. I certainly won’t contemplate keeping any xenia in my tanks again, no matter how attractive it may look. I’ve now managed to start restocking the tank with my much-loved LPS corals. Most of them are in the form of frags, but I am a patient thing, and I’m happy to enjoy watching them blossom and grow into nice healthy specimens again. The only change I have made to the tank this time round is no skimmer. I am relying solely on water changes at present, and it’s working well. I may go back to a skimmer at some point when the tank is near fully stocked again, but for now I am enjoying the peace and quiet, so to speak. I also want to get a nice Reefloat Auto Top-Up for this tank, as the one on my Vision is doing a sterling job, and it saves me having to check the tank so frequently for salinity. So, what’s next? Funnily enough, it’s another Edge tank (another present out of the blue from Darren), which was going to be used as a nursery for Sepia Bandensis (Dwarf Cuttlefish). I was lucky enough to be given a trio of these baby Dwarf Cuttlefish, and they were being fed up and were dwelling in a breeding net in my Vision tank. I was totally excited about these little creatures, but sadly they didn’t survive past 4 weeks of keeping them. I was devastated to lose the three little lives, and won’t be entertaining the thought of keeping them again. That leaves me with a running but empty Edge tank, in which I’d like to put something interesting that is different but hardy. Watch the forum for updates! How many tanks is that now? Oh, just 10; five of them are marines (2x 23L, 25L, 155L, 180L), one fancy goldfish 180L-tank, one Figure 8 Puffer tank (125L), one Congo Puffer tank (125L), one Dwarf Puffer tank (45L), and one modestly small community Tetra tank (65L). The Osaka is still very much a work in progress, and my other tanks just seem to keep evolving with each coral or fish or critter I add. I have constantly pruned fingers and permanent salt creep round my nostrils, but I am happy and (thankfully) so are my fish. If you ask me, it’s Darren who deserves a prize for the most tolerant person I know. Mind you, we work well together. Ask anyone who knows him and they’ll tell you how many car engine parts I have to climb over to get to my tanks. I’m not bothered too much really. The house is no show house, but everything in it is happy! JL “How many tanks is that now? Oh, just 10; five of them are marines, one fancy goldfish 180L-tank, one Figure 8 Puffer tank, one Congo Puffer tank, one Dwarf Puffer tank, and one modestly small community Tetra tank” JENNY’S TIP There is one simple and easy bit of advice I try to impart to other fishkeepers, no matter what side of the hobby they are in, and it’s my motto – slowly, slowly, happy tanky. It may not be much fun or very exciting, but strangely enough, it works. My love of puffers has now extended into my marine tanks, and I got the urge badly and purchased two Toby Puffers (a Valentini and a Leopardi) for my nice Akva Stabil tall tank, along with various other fish and some soft corals. That’s now turned into a Juwel Vision 180, and has once again remained simple, as in one skimmer and an auto top-up unit and weekly water changes. It’s mainly full of different leather corals and it’s a piece of cake to look after. The Valentini Toby is in this tank, and my Leopard Toby is in the Osaka, after having been chased about too much by the Valentini. My Osaka started to suffer after my op, and I thought at first that it was something I was doing wrong. Slowly but surely all the LPS corals started dropping heads, or just shrinking before my eyes, and with parameters as stable as always, I was at a loss to explain the troubles. I was on the edge of stripping it all down and going FOWLR after my softies started shrinking too, however, one coral was going great guns, and it was one I loved at the time – silver-tipped pulsing xenia. Darren kept saying I should cut it back, and I kept saying it was the only thing growing, and as it was ‘harmless’, I was happy to let it grow. How wrong was I? Darren did a small bit of research, and it seemed a strong likelihood that the xenia might be sending out toxic warfare and going nuclear on the other corals in its bid for total tank domination. Immediately I got to work, ripping out all the xenia I could see. I thought it had killed off so many of my beautiful LPS corals and EDITORS’ NOTE: Thanks Jenny, for a wonderful insight into your fishkeeping passion. Marine Habitat wishes you all the best in the future, and good health to go with that. -–57 055-058_HobbyistsProfile_MH006.indd 4 30/10/2011 19:04:30 Competition - JBL STABILISE YOUR pH ONCE AND FOR ALL! During photosynthesis, corals use up CO2; during respite, corals release CO2. As CO2 increases, pH declines. Understand, monitor and maintain CO2 levels in your aquarium to achieve stability and enable corals to thrive. THE CARBON CYCLE Carbon dioxide (CO2) is a naturally occurring chemical compound; at standard temperature and pressure it is a gas. Photosynthesis is a chemical process that converts carbon dioxide into organic compounds, using energy from sunlight. The conversion of carbon dioxide into organic compounds using photosynthesis is also known as the carbon cycle. However, in darkness (i.e. at night), photosynthesis cannot occur. CONTROLLING pH LEVELS Respiring corals release CO2 into the water, while during photosynthesis they use up CO2. By continuously adding carbon dioxide to water, it can be used as a means of controlling pH levels. As CO2 increases, pH declines, and visa versa. It is common for pH levels in aquaria to increase during the hours of sunlight, however, CO2 can be added into the water to keep the pH level from rising, therefore creating a more stable environment. CONTROLLING CALCIUM CARBONATE In reef aquaria, CO2 is also commonly used in calcium reactors to temporarily lower the pH of water being passed over calcium carbonate. This is in order to allow the calcium carbonate to dissolve into the water more freely where it is used by some corals to build their skeletons. ONE MASSIVE PRIZE! Marine Habitat are pleased to offer this interesting and exciting prize, provided by JBL. There really will be one very lucky winner this time round – but that one winner will receive one hell of a prize! The following is included: • A complete JBL ProFlora m1003 CO2 system which incorporates: - 2kg CO2 cylinder with stand - pressure reducer - CO2 diffuser JBL Taifun 430mm - 2mCO2 special hose - CO2 check valve - KH Test - pH control instrument (JBL ProFlora pH Control) which automatically regulates CO2 supply and adjusts to the selected pH level (incl. calibration solution but not pH electrode!) And to complete the setup, the pH electrode, which is normally excluded from the JBL ProFlora m1003 CO2 system, has been added as an extra: • JBL ProFlora pH probe - A sturdy, laboratory-quality gel electrode - with BNC plug to fit many systems MORE ABOUT THE JBL PROFLORA CO2 SYSTEM This revolutionary system meets all the wishes of aquarium enthusiasts and the specialist trade: 1. A CO2 system which can be converted from disposable cylinders (u-system) to refillable cylinders (m-system) in just seconds. So, in the holiday season, aquarium enthusiasts can quickly set up disposable reserve cylinders for whoever is WHAT’S UP FOR GRABS One very lucky winner will receive one massive prize. A complete JBL ProFlora CO2 looking after their aquarium while they are away. 2. Extendable CO2 diffuser JBL Taifun: whenever more CO2 is needed, whether due to denser planting, a larger aquarium, or because a lower pH level is required, the JBL Taifun can be easily extended at very little cost. So there’s simply no need to buy a new, bigger diffuser. 3. Complete solution: liquid fertiliser (JBL Ferropol) and daily fertiliser (JBL Ferropol 24) are included. 4. New pressure regulator JBL ProFlora u001/m001: in addition to the new feature that this pressure regulator now fits disposable as well as refillable cylinders (only dismantle or remove one locking nut), the preset operating pressure can also now be adjusted if required. A brochure is available to accompany the new JBL ProFlora CO2 system, with illustrations and answers to all questions on the subject of fertilisers/CO2. In developing this system, JBL has succeeded in making the subject of CO2 fertilising a whole lot simpler and more professional! system (which incorporates the JBL ProFlora pH Control) and JBL ProFlora pH-probe. WO RT H OV ER £6 00 ! To win this fantastic prize, just answer this question; The conversion of carbon dioxide into organic compounds is usually called photosynthesis, but what is its other name? A) Carbon Recycling B) Carbon Cycle Name: Daytime delivery address: Postcode: Telephone no: Mobile: Email: Competition closing date: 23/12/2011 C) Carbon Changing Please complete this entry form and post to: Fish Junkies Ltd., JBL Competition, PO BOX 4838, Sheffield S12 9DU, England. Please photocopy this page to avoid spoiling the magazine. Winners will be notified in writing. Once notified please allow 28 days for the delivery of your prize. If you do not wish to receive further information from Marine Habitat or its associates, please tick here 58–064_JBLComp_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 11:05:29 Untitled-1 1 11/10/2011 00:38:39 DON’T FORGET 5p from every copy sold goes to a chosen non-profit marine conservation organisation SUBSCRIBE TODAY Marine Habitat is currently offering the opportunity to subscribe for a period of six issues (12 months). This will ensure that you receive your copy every time, direct to your door, within days of release. 12 MONTHSION SUBSCRIPTY F RO M O N L 0 0 . 0 2 £ HELP US IMPROVE THE MAGAZINE – SUBSCRIPTION FORM Name Address We continually strive to make the magazine the best it can be, and with your help we can develop the magazine to exactly what YOU want. Postcode Telephone Mobile Please answer the questions below Email Please start my subscription from issue Which other magazines do you subscribe to? (please state issue number) Magazine 12 month Subscription Rates (Please tick): UK £20.00 Europe £32.00 USA £40.00 Rest of World £46.00 All rates include delivery. Please check the website as all rates are subject to change. PAYMENT DETAILS Payment methods: Via website or cheque ONLINE Pay us a visit, and pay for your subscription online at www.marinehabitatmagazine.com CHEQUE If you prefer the old fashioned way, complete this form and post to Fish Junkies Ltd., PO BOX 4838, Sheffield S12 9DU, England. Please make cheques payable to ‘Fish Junkies Ltd.’ For any queries you may have, please email [email protected] Please tick the box if you do not wish to receive any further information from Fish Junkies Ltd. via post Where do you shop for your tank requirements? Online Local store Do you regularly use online forums? If so, which? Where did you buy Marine Habitat magazine? or email HELPING MARINE CONSERVATION Remember, your subscription will in turn help our efforts to support marine conservation – as a company, we have pledged a minimum of 5p from every copy sold to a chosen non-profit marine conservation organisation. These monies are accumulated throughout the year and then donated in one lump sum annually. If you would like to donate any additional monies to our chosen marine conservation organisation, no matter how big or small, please add your donation onto the end of the cheque. We guarantee that the whole amount of your donation will be forwarded directly onto our chosen organisation. On behalf of Marine Habitat and the chosen conservation, thank you! Any other thoughts about this magazine? 60–060_SubsOffer_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 19:25:42 I G GY TAVA R E S Age: 62. Hometown: London. Full-time occupation: Scientist. Marine experience: 7yrs. Aquarium size: None at the moment. Favourite fish: Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon). coral: Elegance Coral (Catalaphyllia jardenei). other: Blood Red Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius). Specialist areas: Photography. Aquarium de la Porte Dorée P��i� Iggy Tavares returns for his next aquarium profile, with a trip across the Channel to Paris. With 300,000 litres to look at, find out how Iggy rated this fascinating aquarium. P alais de la Porte Dorée, the Palace of the Golden Gate in Paris, with architecture based on an Art Deco model, was built for the Paris Colonial Exhibition in 1931 and has had a tropical aquarium from its inception. Although a succession of museums in the palace, such as the Musée de la France d’Outre-mer, and the Musée des Arts Africains et Océaniens, have come and gone, fortunately, the tropical aquarium that occupies the large basement of the palace has stayed. In the early days it housed the aquatic wildlife collected from the far-flung French colonies, benefiting from the contributions of the governors, who always brought back some fish on their return to Paris. A star attraction in 1948 was crocodiles brought in from Dakar, Senegal. The aquarium underwent its first maintenance overhaul in 1960, but the work to modernise the aquarium to what is present today started in 1985, when the current director of Aquarium de la Porte Dorée, Mr Michel Hignette, was appointed from Monaco Aquarium. While preserving the original architecture and the historical aspect of the place, Mr Hignette set about renovations of the aquarium in stages that included a centralised seawater processing plant with UV sterilisation and heating. Moreover, the concrete aquariums were replaced with polyester resin reinforced aquariums that had built-in individual filtration systems. Similar improvements were made to the freshwater tanks. These technical changes, which brought about a massive improvement in water quality, now permitted the keeping of a whole range of aquatic animals in good health, with few losses. Today, this beautifully presented public aquarium, which occupies two large halls, has a great selection of marine aquariums, as well as a freshwater aquarium with a sprinkling of brackish water biotopes; it also features some 80 aquariums with a total volume of some 300,000 litres. The marine and freshwater aquariums are intermingled; the tanks at this facility are grouped to illustrate specific themes. Both marine and freshwater setups are beautifully presented, but in this photo feature article I will concentrate on the marine biotopes. The marine aquariums are found in Section C and Section I. I knew I was in for a treat as I descended the stairs to the basement and came upon the first marine presentation halfway down the stairs. My first view was of corals all the way to the water surface, with fish fleeting around, giving me a bird’s eye view of the reef that was created to represent the Great Barrier Reef. With a volume of 1,600 litres (L200xH200xW40cm), there is plenty of room for a great selection of soft corals (Anthellia, Xenia and Sinularia species, among others) and hard corals (Acropora, Euphyllia, Pectinia and Turbinaria species, among others). This feature is also well stocked with fish that include Copperband Butterflyfish (Chelmon rostratus), Regal Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus), Magnificent Rabbitfish (Siganus magnificus), Red Sea Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma desjardinii), and a nice school of Yellow Chromis (Chromis analis). Other inhabitants include plenty of Blood Red Shrimp (Lysmata debelius) and a Giant Clam (Tridacna maxima). Although it does suffer large temperature variations between summer and winter because of its location, it has been working well and is a delight to observe from above, as well as from the sides. The first marine aquarium in the basement hall is a small jellyfish display containing some Common Jellyfish (Aurelia aurita), whose numbers are topped up from time to time. The blue lighting and the peculiar swimming of the jellyfish make for a surreal display. The first large marine aquarium (6,000 litres, 290x80x100cm) is devoted to soft corals. Though most of the corals in this display are, for the most part, various shades of brown, nevertheless it is fantastic display, crammed full with a wealth of species that include Lobophytum, Cladiella and Sinularia, as well as a few colourful species from Dendronephthya, Siphonogorgia and Clavularia. Other species include Anthelia and Xenia that sway in the water current. Colonial corals are represented by species from Zooanthus, Palythoa and Parazooanthus, but there are a good number of mushrooms too, which included some from Ricordia. At first glance there seemed to be few fish around, but a more detailed look found loads of fish in and around the corals, such as Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens), Sohal Tang (Acanthurus sohal), Palette Surgeonfish (Paracanthurus hepatus), Longnosed Butterfly (Forcipiger flavissimus), Uspi Rabbitfish (Signanus uspi) and Saddled Butterfly (Chaetodon ephippium). Smaller fish included Goldie Anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis), Skunk Clown (Amphipirion perideraion), Pyjama Cardinalfish (Sphaeramia nematoptera), Blue Eyed Cardinalfish (Apogon leptacanthus), Elegant Firefish (Nemateleotris decora) and a Dottyback (Pseudochromis sp.) all making for a great display. -–61 061_064_ParisAquarium_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 17:47:09 Aquarium de la Porte Dorée, Paris - Iggy Tavares The large hard corals aquarium (6,000 litres, 290x80x100cm) is a fairly recently setup, and given that SPS corals are much slower growing, it has some way to go yet before it fills out with coral. The one coral of good size is a ruffle ridge green coral (Turbinaria species). To help the hard corals (Acropora, Euphyllia, Pectinia, Turbinaria and more) to grow, the tank is being provided with high-quality lighting, high calcium, and good water flow. The small number of fish in the hard coral aquarium include Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens), Goldeye Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus) Striped Surgeonfish (Acanthus lineatus), Foxface (Siganus vulpinus) and Green Chromis (Chromis viridis). The next six smaller marine aquariums in Section C, all beautifully laid out, contained many small species of fish to show the marine biodiversity, while others focused on associations between marine creatures, such as symbiosis between corals and unicellular algae, between fish and anemones, and even associations between fish and fish (Cleaner Wrasse). The clownfish aquarium contained five pairs of Clowns (Amphiprion ocellaris) in an aquarium filled with various colourful mushrooms, including Ricordea species, Green Tip Frogspawn (Euphyllia sp.) and Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa). Nonetheless, at least one pair was caring for eggs. The other small aquarium that I liked had many Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni) and was also nicely furnished, principally with soft corals, but also with green tip frogspawn (Euphyllia sp.). It also contained a large magnificent Sea Anemone (Heteractis magnifica) that the pair of Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) steered well clear of. On entering the second hall, I could see that I was going to be in for a treat; there were larger, spectacular marine displays arranged in groups. Aquarium sizes varied from small (l,000-litre) tanks to mid-sized (3,000 litres), with the biggest ones being 8,000 litres. The first 3,000-litre aquarium (L300xH90xW110cm) had a great display of plate corals (e.g. Montipora species, Turbinaria sp.), as well as other hard corals (e.g. Brain Corals, Favia species) that was home to a large number of Blue Damselfish (Chrysiptera cyanea) and a few Neon Velvet Damsels (Neoglyphidodon oxydon) for a lively colourful setup. More sombre fish included Palette Surgeonfish (Paracanthurus hepatus) and some Brown Tang (Zebrasoma scopas) that went about their own business and were oblivious of the damsels. Next, in the smaller Caribbean tank (1,000 litres, L120xH90xW90cm), I enjoyed the antics of the dancing Yellowhead Jawfish (Opistognathus aurifrons), which kept standing up in the water to attract my attention. This was a tank of small fish where I also spotted a Blackcap Basslet (Gramma melacara), Cherub Angelfish (Centropyge argi) and some Blue Reef Chromis (Chromis cyanea). There was a lot of live rock in this aquarium, which was adorned with some soft and hard corals, such as a large clump of red mushrooms, finger leather corals, blue sponge, and also some hard corals. Others included sea fans (Gorgonia sp.), as well as a large clump of evergreen starburst polyps (Briareum sp.) My heart skipped several beats when I saw the beautiful juvenile Zebra Shark (Stegostoma fasciatum) that was actively swimming in its 8,000-litre (L250xH120xW260cm) aquarium. Zebra Sharks are a species of carpet shark that are largely nocturnal in nature, spending most of the day resting on the sea floor and hunting for molluscs and crabs during the night, but fortunately this captive Zebra Shark had adapted to daytime swimming. A juvenile Napoleon Wrasse (Cheilinus undulates) cruised the waters of this tank, which was completed by a shoal of extra-large active Sergeant Major Damsels (Abudefduf saxatilis). The A Longnose Butterfly looking full of life and happily grazing. This sm Aquar more Lyreta other The Shark Aquarium that included two shark species was a major attraction for the visiting children. 62–061_064_ParisAquarium_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 17:47:22 Aquarium de la Porte Dorée, Paris - Iggy Tavares This small Red Sea Aquarium featured more than two dozen Lyretail Anthias among other fish species. This Jawfish in the Caribbean tank stayed in the water column watching the visitors go by. This Yellowbar Angelfish was king of the aquarium but did not trouble the anthias in the aquarium. furnishings of this tank consisted of bare live rock. The aquarium appeared to be large enough for the moment to house the 120cm shark and the juvenile Napoleon Wrasse. The Scorpionfish display (3,000 litres) was dominated by a pillar of rock that rises all the way to the water surface, and was adorned by various colourful mushrooms; colonial corals such as Zoanthus and Protopalythoa species, among others. This aquarium housed Pacific Red Lionfish (Pterois volitans), Radiata Lionfish (Pterois radiate), and Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish (Dendrochirus brachypterus), some of which were hard to see. The ‘In the Wake of Sharks’ aquarium display was set up for the special month-long exhibition in February 2011, to discover the fascinating world of sharks and rays, and it includes a mix of live fish, images and films, as well as mounted specimens and extraordinary fossil specimens, which, sadly, I missed. The large show tank (4,000 litres, 300x70x190cm) contains a selection of smaller sharks, such as Bamboo Sharks (Chiloscyllium plagiosum), and Ribbontail Stingrays (Taeniura lymma), among others. The Red Sea tank (3,000 litres) was a delight; it was a blaze of colour because of the large number of healthy-looking and active Sea Goldie (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) that stayed in the water column. Other fish included a large Yellowbar Angelfish (Pomacanthus maculosus), a Regal Angelfish (Pygoplites diacanthus), Golden Butterflyfish (Chaetodon semilarvatus), Yellowtail Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum), Bluestripe Cleaner Wrasses (Labroides dimidiatus), and Candy Stripe Hogfish (Bodianus opercularis). The aquarium was well stocked with a diversity of corals, from Montipora to Acropora, as well as Favia and much more. The next large 8,000-litre aquarium has a large diversity of species and includes a beautiful blue undefined unicorn fish that has not yet developed its horn, pufferfish, Barred Thicklip Wrasse (Hemigymnus sexfasciatus ), some Stripey (Microcanthus strigatus), Magnificent Rabbitfish (Siganus magnificus) and a Queensland Yellowtail Angelfish (Chaetodontoplus meredithi). Many Blue Damsels (Chrysiptera cyanea) and a shoal of orange Moluccan Cardinalfish (Apogon monospilus) were among the smaller fish, all making for an interesting display. Apart from the rockwork along the back and sides of the aquarium, a broad-based pillar near the front of the aquarium rises all the way to the water surface. Hence this aquarium has a wealth of colourful corals such as Seriatopora, Montipora, Caulastrea, Blastomussa, Echinopora, Euphyllia, Pocillopora and Turbinaria. The adjoining smaller display (1,000 litres) was similar to what a marine hobbyist might have at home. It held a wealth of species that included a Regal Angelfish (Pygoplites diacanthus), Bellus Angelfish (Genicanthus bellus), Merten’s Butterflyfish (Chaetodon mertensii), Porcupine Puffer (Diodon holacanthus), Virgate Rabbitfish (Siganus virgatus), Palette Surgeonfish (Paracanthus hepatus) and Brown Tang (Zebrasoma scopas). There were also several pairs of Common Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) and Talbot’s Damselfish (Chrysiptera talboti). Corals included plate corals (Montipora), several species of sea fans, green mushrooms, elephant ears, and an anemone that was home to some clowns. The Hawaiian tank, although just 1,000 litres, was a real beauty containing several bowl-shaped, multi-layered Montipora, and hard corals such as the Slipper Coral (Polyphillia talpina), as well as several different Zoanthus species. It was also filled with eye-catching fish such as Yellow Tangs (Zebrasoma flavescens), Fourspot Butterflyfish, (Chaetodontidae capistratus), Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula), and the difficult to maintain Longnose Butterflyfish (Forcipiger flavissimus), which was entirely healthy in this tank. Smaller fish included several Blue-eyed Cardinals (Apogon compressus) and a couple of Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus). The large shark tank (8,000 litres, 250x120x260cm) surprisingly contained two species, a Blacktip Shark (Carcharhinus melanopterus) and a Horn Shark (Heterodontus francisci); these were young fish, at around 70cm each, but nonetheless were interesting and impressive, and swimming actively. The Blacktip Shark was very active indeed, utilising both top and bottom levels, while the Horn Shark was content with the lower levels of the aquarium, where the Honeycomb Stingray (Himantura uarnak) also resides. A rather large Whitemargin Unicornfish (Naso annulatus) and some Pakistani Butterflyfish (Chaetodon collare) also graced the aquarium. This aquarium has a central mound of rocks carrying a range of corals, home to Dusky Anemonefish (Amphiprion melanopus), and was used as a base by Blue Chromis (Chromis cyanea) and Humbug Dacylus (Dascyllus aruanus). The final marine tank was the Red Sea display (3,000 litres), and it has a large rock pile at the front, which was loaded with growing corals that included leather finger corals, mushrooms, colonial types, brain coral (Favia sp.), as well as Montipora and Acropora species. Larger fish included a Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus leucosternon), Green Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus caeruleus), Goldeneye Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus), Foxface Lo (Siganus vulpinus), Naso Tang (Naso lituratus) and Arabian Angelfish (Pomacanthus asfur). A shoal of mediumsized Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni) hugged the outlines of the rock, while a large Orange-lined Triggerfish (Balistapus undulates) hid among the rocks. The sharks are fed, with frozen food daily (mussels, shrimps, little fishes), but twice a week the aquarium receives fresh fish (mainly mackerel and trout) that goes mainly to the large fishes and the sharks. The other marine fishes are fed daily -–63 061_064_ParisAquarium_MH006.indd 3 30/10/2011 17:47:30 Aquarium de la Porte Dorée, Paris - Iggy Tavares The Soft Coral Aquarium filled with various species of thriving coral provided cover for many fish. too, with the same frozen foods chopped up, but also with live artemia nauplii and adult artemia, seaweeds (nori, wakame), and sometimes earthworms to start difficult stingrays feeding. There is a lot of daily preparation in chopping up and making the right mix and amount to feed to the animals in each aquarium. In the marine system, water quality is maintained using classic systems based on biological and mechanical filters (sand filters) and skimmers. Additionally, each tank has its own individual built-in filtration unit, which enables an aquarium to be isolated from the rest of the installation whenever necessary, which is not very often. The water quality is tested every day, because it is a closed system where water could deteriorate very quickly, although thankfully, everything has been stable for a long time. Saltwater is prepared by mixing artificial proprietary salt with reverse osmosis water. Evaporation is a problem, and the marine system is topped up daily with RO purified water. The tanks are siphoned occasionally to remove collecting detritus, with some partial water changes. There are also very regular additions of strontium, iodine and calcium to keep the corals growing strongly. There is, of course, a lot more to the Aquarium de la Porte Dorée than just the marine sections, which also have some outstanding freshwater and brackish water display aquariums. The aquarium houses around 5,000 animals and 300 species, with new animals being brought in through exchanges with other public aquariums, purchases and donations. The various exhibits are grouped together into nine sections and cover various aspects, such as primitive fish, reproduction, electric fish, cyprinid fish from Asia, African lake cichlids, South American fish, including piranha and discus, and a large enclosure for crocodiles and turtles. FRESHWATER In the freshwater section, where there are 24 large aquaria, a wonderful display to look out for is the large two-panelled aquarium decorated with logs and rock slabs. It houses a shoal of Florida Gar (Lepisosteus platyrhincus) and a few ADDRESS: 293 AVENUE DAUMESNIL, 75012, PARIS WEBSITE: WWW.AQUARIUM-PORTEDOREE.FR TELEPHONE: 0153 59 58 60 PRICE: ADULTS €4.50, OAP €3.00 CHILDREN €1.50, FAMILY €6.00 OPENING TIMES: TUES-FRI 10A.M.-5:15P.M; WEEKENDS 10A.M.-7P.M. TRAVEL: MÉTRO – PORTE DORÉE (LINE 8), OR BUS – 46 OR PC2 This beautiful aquarium filled with colourful corals and beautiful damselfish. freshwater Garfish (Xenentodon cancila), some Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) and large black Doras Catfish (Pseudodoras niger), which are living quite comfortably together with some stingrays. The electric fish sector hosts an actively swimming African Electric Catfish (Malapterurus electricus), which is capable of delivering a 400-volt charge, in a nice display in a mid-sized nicely planted tank. On the other hand, African Knife Fish (Gymnarchus niloticus) and Elephant Nose Fish (Gnathonemus petersi) housed in separate displays can only generate weak electric fields for electro-location. There are several cichlid displays, including a West African stream full of branching roots inhabited by small cichlids, while a large display decorated with fallen logs and rocks has larger African tilapia cichlids. The Rift Valley lakes are represented by a rocky habitat tank full of colourful Malawi mbuna, while the Tanganyikan biotope tank has lots of crevices to accommodate the slimmer Judidochromis and other similar species. A large feature aquarium houses a splendid collection of the larger Central American cichlids, including Red Devils (Amphilophus labiatus), Jaguar Cichlid (Parachromis managuensis), Pantano Cichlid (Herichthys pearsei) and Silver Cichlid (Vieja argentea), among others. Discus are also featured in another display. Other large aquariums feature shoals of Giraffe Catfish, shoals of large Red Bellied Piranhas (Pygocentrus natteri), and many more. There are also a couple of dozen small, beautifully aquascaped freshwater aquariums showcasing various small groups of fish. A large central area in the second hall holds Nile Crocodile and turtles. IN CONCLUSION Aquarium de la Porte Dorée is open from Tuesday through to Sunday, but is closed on Mondays. In addition to going around alone, it offers specific tours for schools (shapes and colours, variety of animals and environments), college level (biodiversity or evolution and classification) and adults (lifestyles of tropical fish, biodiversity protection or adaptation to aquatic life) that can include lectures, workshops, or specific itineraries and activities, and usually takes approximately 90 minutes. Entry to Aquarium de la Porte Dorée is just €4.50 for adults or €6.00 for a family, and it is definitely well worth a visit. IT The Hawaiian Aquarium housed a nice collection of hard corals and colourful butterfly and angel fish. 42–061_064_ParisAquarium_MH006.indd 4 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: I would like to thank Michel Hignette, director of Aquarium de la Porte Dorée, and Déodat Manchon, aquarist and information correspondent, for their help in providing the necessary information. 30/10/2011 17:47:37 Classifieds The UK’s Only Non Sponsored Marine Forum and The Fastest Growing Marine Forum www.thesaltybox.com Whatever your aquatic needs, Red Sea delivers high quality innovative, solution based products HAND PICKED LPS, SPS & SOFT CORALS FISH & INVERTS Call us on 01803 844 498 www.southdevonaquaticcentre.co.uk -–65 065-066__Classifieds_MH006.indd 1 30/10/2011 09:28:14 Classifieds Europe's leading supplier of quality marine fish and invertebrates to the ornamental trade since 1970 www.tmc-ltd.co.uk BECOME A MARINE HABITAT STOCKIST • LOW RRP COVER PRICE • BULK ORDER SAVINGS • FREE WEBSITE LISTING, LINKS DIRECT TO YOU • HELP SUPPORT MARINE CONSERVATION CONTACT US [email protected] 66–065-066__Classifieds_MH006.indd 2 30/10/2011 09:28:18 You are not the only one enjoying the tase of healthy food! JBL Premium Spirulina Special flakes for algae grazers ✔ Stronger and healthier fish ✔ Stimulates the immune system ✔ Enhances brilliant colouring ✔ Freshly harvested, 100 % natural and pure Make JBL your first choice! www.JBL.de Untitled-1 1 11/10/2011 00:39:50 Untitled-1 1 30/10/2011 12:23:54