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karthik" <[email protected]>
. November 08. 2005 2:01 PM
- Journal.doc
Journal Material - G.l Application No.22 - regarding
Chenai
Sir,
Corrected Drafr of Journal Material
br
G.l Application no.22, Orissa lkat is enclosed here with for your
kind ac{ion.
Ygurs faithtully,.
.-
6u#"h*sff,<l"
Manager
Genercl
Bovanika
ulss"
cene?l
l,,lahaoer
stal'o H6idloon
,; o ,i. ltd..
|:'nubanaswar
.GOvT. oF
INEiA
('eotr.phlcal lFdicrtlon
Rejisrry
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11/81O5
GI.APPLICATION NUMBER. 22
./)7n\r\t
r+.
is made by The Orissa Stab Handloom Weavers Co-oP. Society Ltd.,
JZ-^""ffi
) for the registration in Part A of the regisEr of Orissa lkat under
No.22 in respect of Yam & Threads Tied and Dyed for Textile Use falling in
extile & Textile Goods falling in Class.24 and Clothing falling in Class. 25 is
advertised as accepted under subsection (1)
of
Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act,199
Applicant
:
section 13
of
Ccographical
-
The Orissa State Handloom Weavers Co-op. Society Ltd.,
GOYANIKA)
BOYANABHAWAN
Address
Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru Marg
Bhubaneswar - 751001, Orissa.
Geographical Indication
Class
:'23,24&'25
Goods
:
:
ORISSA II(AT
Class.23
- Yam & Threads Tied and Dyed for Textile Use
Class.24
- Textile & Textile Goods
Class.25 -
Clothing
k4sf,r
General Manager
I
Orissa Stata Handlo4m W.C.S. 1t4..
Bhubaneswar
I.
(a) Name of the
{'t"'
Handloom Weavers Co-op. Society t' '
: The Orissa State
Applicant
Ltd., (BOYANIKA)
: Boyan Bhawan
Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru Marg
Bhubaneswar - 75101, Orissa.
(c ) List of association of personsl
Producers/ organizatiory'authority: To be provided on request.
(d)Type of goods
:
Textiles
(e) Specification
Sl.
No
Deecription of
Variety of
Products
Typeof
Count of Yarn
Raw
materials/Y
Deaigne
Type of
Dye ffie
Remar
ks
arn used
i.
Single Ikat Satee
with or without
dobby and butta
silk
body with bandha
plain/ buq/
zlrw,2/7w,
Vat,
2/80s, 60s, 40s.
Napthal
3 Ply
organgine x 4
ply charkha
body
bandha anchal.
ii. Combined
2/12G,2/rffi,
&
Double Ikat Saree
with or without
2/
plain/buty
(b)
2
(")
8Os,
@s, 4Os.
Vat Napthal
3 Ply
dobby and butta
body with bandha
organzine x 4
ply charkha
body
bandha anchal.
1
Khandua
Single Ikat
Saree
bandha/ plain body
with bandha anchal
Dress
Material
Acid &
Metal
Complex
2pty
body
i. Singb Ikat 48 inch
width x rfiming
&
Metal
Complex
Acid
Cotton
length
organzine
4 ply Malda
Acid &
Metal
Complex
2/72V,2/lG,
Vat Napthal
2/80s, 60s,
3
4Os.
ply
organgine x 4
ply charkha.
ii. Combined
&
Doutrle Ikat (warp sitk
Corea/China
& weft lkat)
Cotton x
Tassar/Native
Tassar
Tassar
(2/'L2c- &
2/ 1C{Fcotton
.
Cotton x
silk
Acid
silk
for bandha.
Metal
Complex
7&24
dr
tu22
dr
Single & double Ikat Cotton
& combined Ikat
ip-ffi\x
;i/:" *id\o*
"-'$'
2/
3
8Os, 60s, 4$s.
ply
organgine x 4
ply charkha,
.
a\a
2/rw,2/rw,
J{E
Vat,Napthal
/uq
\)*#"#l
Acid
silk
Corea/China
Cotton x
silk
Tassar
Tassar/ Native
Tassar
Cotton x
Silk
(2/1*&
Metal
Complex
2/l0Gcotton
for bandha.
2
G)
Three
Dress
piece
Set
Single & double Ikat Cotton
& combined Ikat
2/'t2U,2/-tfi}, ValNapthal
2/ 8Os, 6Os, $s.
3 Ply
organgine x 4
ply charkha
Acid
silk
Corea/China
Cotton x
silk
Tassar
Tassar/ Native
Tassar
(2/1!j 4.
Cotton x
silk
Metal
Complex
2/ l00cotton
for bandha.
3
Home
Single/Double
Cotton
2/20s,2/40s, ValNapthal
Furnishings Ikat/ Association of
2/ @s,2/&s,
both.
20s
26s (double),
&
2/17NF,106
Napthol
Covers
(double),
& combined Ikat
NF, 2/rl0s,
48" x9)"
60"
"
72" x(fi"
90" x 108"
20s double,
26s double,
x
2/6Os,2/ffis,
4Os
double.
(f) Name of the geographical indication (and particulars)
Orissa Ikat
:
is being produced in the Westem Region covering
Baragarh,
Sambalpur, Jharsuguda, Sonepur, Bolangir, Boudtr, Nuapada and Kalahandi District and
Coastal region covering Cuttack Dstrict.
g) Description of the goods:
(t
Handloom Sarees having body as plain/buty /bandha (single
&
double lkat)
border as badi border with or without temple with dobby design/bandha (single &
double Ikat) and anchal as bandha (single & double lkat a comtined lkat).
(ii) Handloom dress rraterials with single & double Ikat & combined Ikat with or without
buty.
(iii)Handloom ftrafs/dupattas/stoles with body and anchal having single & double Ikat
combined Ikat On Cottoo Silk and Tassar with or without border.
ori.sr
Sl3le tlandio'lm lV C
Bhubaneswat
S Ltd"
l{4
fumishings with single
//t.-aD
.r\7..
& double Ikat & combined Ikat covering items like
screen, sofa and table cover, cushion cover, table mats, kitchen linens
i)
m handkerchiefs, bed covers, lungis and napkins with single & double Ikat
& combined lkat.
(h) Geographical area of production and Map
Orissa Ikat
as
shown in the page No.
is being produced in the Westem Region covering
Baragar[
Sambalpur, Jharsuguda, Sonepur, Bolangir, Boudh, Nuapada and Kalahandi District and
Coastal region covering Cuttack Disffict.
Ikat Area
:
Latitude -19 il'
min North to 22 0d min North
Longitude - 82 30' min
(i)
East to 85 54' min East
Proof of origin [Historical records]
:
The Ikat is a Malayalam word introduced into Europian language by Rouffair
which is derived kom the word "Mangikat'' meaning to bind, knoot or wind round. In
India it is known in the name of "Bandhini" in Malayan Peninsula Tjindai, Tjinde or
Chindi and in Indonesia "Hol".
In Indi4 the Ikat fabrics are produced in different names at different places. It is
known as " Potala" in Gujurat, " Bandhini" in Rajstaq "Pagudubandhu", "Budhabus"
and "Chitki" in Andlua Pradesh and "Bandha" in Orissa. Bandha fabrics of Orissa are
done by Bhulia Meher Kustha, Ganda, Salvl, Gaudia-Patra, Asani-Patra, Padmasali and
Devanga Weavers.
The list of fabrics in "Jyotiris vara's Vama Ratrakar written in Eastem India in the
early 14ft century A.D in Maithili gives a list of "Bandha" fabrics namely surya Vandha
and Gaja Vandha. The names Vichitra and Vichitangada appearing in the same list have
been lhked with the Vichitrapuri (also known as Vichitrapar) Saree available in old
undivided Sambalpur and Bolangir District of Orissa. While Gaja (Elephant) is a poprrlar
motif used in Ikat Technique (bandha) of Nuapatna and its surrounding areas in coastal
Cuttack
District
/
<./1
II '
^t
oYwisl..adlrrnu
Ganeal Manaroi
,|
orissa Stat€ Hardlrom U;.C.S
Lrd,,
ghubanoswar
The very existence of Calligraphy Ikat is closely associated with
tord
^;,
,Sn
Jagannath-
documents in this context belongs to Ramachandradev, the second who
d<,
.r.
/, _!
f-fiItr;
Puri, which dates back to 1641 Sakabda i.e 1719 A.D. This document is a part
Panjil', the daily diary of activities in the emple of Lord Jagannath. Jaydev
\r\
\r-/o
oet
(12th
Century A.D.) had offured fabrics with lyrics of the Gita Govinda
in Ikat Technique to the deities, Lord Jagarmath, Balavadra and Devi Subhadra.
Since then" it is in
tradition and prevailing till date.
One more illustrative historical evidence of Ikat Technique in Orissa prevailing in
Nuapatna area of Cuttack District is "the Kotual families preserve a small piece of fabric
woven by each member of the fore fathers up to last 7 generations. When the death
occurs to the head of the family, his successor adds his fabric removing the fabric woven
by the earliest fore father and immerse it in holy rivers".
The following supportive documents have been submitted along with the
application:
1.
Study of Contemporary Textile Crafts of India
-
Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and
Andhra Pradesh by Dr. Moti Chandra, 194.
2.
3.
Orissa District Gazetteers of Sambalpur, Balangir and Cuttack.
The Orissan Art of Weaving by Dr. Keshab Chandra Meher
(j) Method of Production
:
The echniques, by which the Ikat fabrics in Orissa are produced, are described below :(1)
Grouping of Threads, which are to be used as tied and dyed warp or weft.
For production of a design of 10 (ten) repeats warp wise, we have to group ten
t}treads, each one of which is meant for one repeat. This group of ten threads is taken and
warped maintaining uniform tensiorL so that the figure should not be distorEd during
weaving. Secondly, the length and width of yam displaying in warp is so adjusted that
the figure can be brought as required by tying them properly and then by dyeing. The
most essential thing during warping is leasing of threads, the objetives of which is
described below :-
(0
(i0
(iii)
To separate each thrcad,
To separate group of threads of one repeat to another repeat.
To separate the threads of two groups on subgroups for purpose of tying and
dyeing and
(iv)
To separate the sub.groups.
*-*rkffi*.t6
Bhubaneswar
(2) Tyrng of Threads :- The main craftsmanship lies in the tyrng the threads
{' Jgo
in proler,-'-'
meant for designing every time follows by a dyeing. The no. of tying depends
Zj$AIvaa\
uP9lJ
j
'do -r.
colours i.e dyeing to be used for the yam. Suppose we want to produce a
't"$ui'S"
a group of threads is to be in three colours like greeo red and blue, then
"i
result for figuring the tying and dyeing are carried out basing upon lighter
shades. The lighter shades are to be dyed first, so all the portions arc tied
excluding the places for lightest shade. Tying is done by rubber or leaf of Kewda so
tightly and properly that no colour solutions can penetrate into the tied portion by any
means. The dyeing is effected as usual in the case of yam dyeing.
In the figure, all the porflons are tied excluding 1 and KL. After tying the yam is
dyed to obtain green shade (lightest among the three) at the portion CD and KL. Similar
operations are carried out to obtain red and blue subsequmtly at their respective places.
Hence,
it is obvious the
increased no. of colours used in bringing out
wi[
increase the
operations of tying and dyeing.
(3) Weaving
i
In single Ikat, the tied and dyed yam is utilized in warp or weft. ln
weaving of weft tie and dye fabrics, it is necessary to place each successive pick on exact
position in succession in relation to the previous one. A lateral shift
will distort the
figure. Therefore weft tie and dye fabric production is a slow process, but owing to exact
observations of pick insertions, it gives more prominent figures.
In warp tie and dye the process of weaving is easier and fast as it rcquires no
adjustment. So production is more.
It
does not give prominent figures, because the
figurcs are distorted due to lack of uniform tension upon warp ends during weaving.
In
double Ikat & combined Ikat or in fabrics in which designs are all over, both
the warp and weft threads are essential to be tied and dyed. The double lkat & combined
Ikat fabric are produced by utilizing both the principles of weft and warp tie and dye, so
it requires much more time than the single ikat fabric.
(k) Uniqueness :
1.
Orissa Ikat is not confined to geometrical design, rather fine, sharp artistic
curvilinear designs
(temple)
et.
in the form of l,aha4
Lata (creeper), Ghagara, Deuli
are its special characteristic.
,/^ar
KVt
otufuyl
iiereral Mana${L ' I l(
arrssa Siale Handloon W.C.S.
Shubanes,rvaf
L
''
ffi
,"i3
*"ro
with full prominence and accuracy. Grouping of threads for tying
\,1'.
dyrng in Orissa Ikat is carried out in minimum two and maximum four
le
fi"utllr
which technique is not prevailing in any other ikat producing state in
Et;#
H,
country.
the harmonious blending of colours giving out a rainbow brilliance make
Orissa Ikat unique.
Shaded effect in floral motifs is a peculiarity.
5.
Calligraphy on Tie and Dye Fabrics/ Wall Hangings is produced only on
Orissa lkat.
6.
Use of Ikat in Tassar Fabric.
7.
Use of Ikat in Jute fabric.
8.
Effect of combined ikat (warp ikag weft ikat and double ikat in a single fabric)
is its exclusiveness.
(l) Inspection Body
:
The applicants have informed that they are towards the establishment of an
Inspection Structure in consultation with the following
(i)
(il)
:
Technical guidance from Weavers Service Centre, Bhubaneswar
TextileCommittee,Bhubaneswar
The Exbmal Members hom the following organizations
1.
2.
will
also be included
:
District Rural Development Agmcy (DRDA)
National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC)
(m) Other:
Informed that steps have been taken for ISO Certification.
Recommendations have been made
for obtaining the Certificate to maintain Quality
parameters.
*{.*:f,:f
:F t
Bhubaneswar