How about a nice warm bath?

01
2012
JANUARY
vol. 09
FREE
[A Conversation with Foreign Residents]
◎Are Japanese men
attractive?
How about a nice warm bath?
［ F E A T U R E ］In love with the tub
The bath is
gooood …
QR Quality Review
A Mirror-less Lens
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX1
Hiroshi Sawada’s
Theory of Cafe Evolution
eng.jqrmag.com
C O N T E N T S
January 2012(distributed 12.7, 2011)
This Month’s New Opening
05 Toyo Bunko Museum
JQR REPORT
07 Following 3/11
The Great East Japan Earthquake: a volunteer’s Disaster Reconstruction Report
Photography/ Tomoya Takai
09 Hiroshi Sawada’s
Theory of Cafe Evolution
10 In love with the tub
The bath is
gooood …
28
30
34
QUALITY REVIEW
A Mirror-less Lens
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX1
[A Conversation with Foreign Residents]
37
◎ Are Japanese men
attractive?
Editorial Committee
Continuing serial［Essay］
Japan and Me:
The Modern is in the Traditional
Francoise Morechand, Essayist
In Praise of Fine Sake
Hidakami
Daiginjo
Publisher and Editor-in-Chief
Jun Shinozuka
Editors
Jun Nakaki
Syozou Izuishi
Tanehide Egami
Christine Lavoie-Gagnon
Shinichi Hanawa
Kyoko Ohtsu
Ryuichiro Matsubara
Dai Furusawa
Humio Maruyama
Web Director
Tokuhisa Maruyama
Yumi Yamaguchi
Designer
Wakako Kawasaki
Additional Editing
High-Tech Industry Innovation Agency
kei Sugawara
Planning
Integral Corp.
Editing
Digital Lights Inc.
Translation
Manabiya Inc.
［Fashion Critic］
［Executive Producer, Ecole De Cuisine Egami］
［Joint Representative Director Ramsar Network Japan］
［Economist, Professor at the University of Tokyo］
［High-Tech Industry Innovation Agency］
［Travel Writer］
JQR editorial department
2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 101-0064
03-3518-2270
JQR advertising department
2-1-14 Sarugakucho, Chiyoda-ku
Tokyo 101-0064
03-3518-4488
eng.jqrmag.com
2012 J a n u a r y
03
This Month’s New Opening
Toyo Bunko Museum
Photography/ Tomoya Takai, Text/JQR
EXHIBITION
URL
www.toyo-bunko.or.jp/museum/
Many historical documents are exhibited in the Kaiko-no-michi
(Retrospective Road), including Japan’s oldest printed document, the
Hyakumantō Darani. The corridor floor gives visitors the emotional
and physical thrill of walking over deep, seemingly bottomless
crevices.
The display between the Discovery and the Kokuho (national
treasure) rooms changes regularly and should not be missed. The
exhibited piece is highlighted on the “month’s recommendation”(in
japanese) page on the web site.
MAP
COLLECTION
Eight minutes’ walk from Komagome Station on the JR and Tokyo
Metro Nanboku lines. Seven minutes’ walk from Sengoku Station on
the Toei Mita Line. One minute’s walk from the Kamifujimae stop on
Toei Bus routes 58 (bound for Uenomatsuzakayamae) and 51 (bound
for Ochanomizuekimae or Akihabaraekimae).
Every month, five scrolls are exhibited in the Kokuho Room from Hisaya
Iwasaki’s collection of twelve scrolls, including national treasures like
the Shiji (Records of the Grand Historian) and the Spring and Autumn
Annals. The entire collection of scrolls – not just a section – are on
display for you to browse.
A Museum for Immersing
Yourself in the Orient
Toyo Bunko (Oriental Library), known for
its collection of valuable Japanese and
Oriental books, opened a museum on
October 20, 2011.
Established in 1924 as a research library
for Oriental studies, Toyo Bunko houses
approximately one million volumes,
including five national treasures and seven
important cultural properties. The library’s
collection centers around two large
collections: Japanese and Chinese books
collected by Hisaya Iwasaki, the third
president of the Mitsubishi Zaibatsu, and
books relating to the Far East collected by
G. E. Morrison, London Times
correspondent and political advisor to the
Chinese government. These have been
digitized using the latest technology and
are available to the public in the five newly
built exhibition rooms.
To commemorate the museum’s opening,
the national treasure Shiji (Records of the
Grand Historian) is on public display for
the first time until December 26, 2011
(Monday). A special exhibition to
commemorate the centennial of the Xinhai
Revolution runs through February 26, 2012
(Sunday). The great collection of The
Travels of Marco Polo is also a must see.
The Toyo Bunko Museum’s collection of
beautiful and precious documents, such as
Tsurezuregusa (Essays in Idleness by the
monk Yoshida Kenkō), is an invaluable
source of Japanese and Oriental history.
Toyo Bunko Museum
2-28-21 Honkomagome, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-3942-0280
Open: 10:00–20:00 (last entry 19:30)
Admission: Adults 880 yen, Adults 65 and
older 780 yen, university students 680 yen,
junior high and high school students 580
yen, elementary school students 280 yen,
20% discount for groups (20 or more
persons), disabled persons (+1 attendant)
340 yen
2012 J a n u a r y
05
from ISHINOMAKI
The Great East Japan Earthquake:
a volunteer’s Disaster Reconstruction Report
Following 3/11
Article and photos: Christine Lavoie-Gagnon
［No.6］
Beyond the facade, the 2nd floor is an intact
centennial photo studio.
Eight months have past since the March 11
giant Tsunami disaster. Volunteer work, even
though getting sadly rather rare on the field,
still continues relentlessly with determination.
Around the Minato area in Ishinomaki, openlands are multiplying. Grass has started to grow
as if there has never been any home, never had
We dig out a poster of nude women happily
skipping-hopping on the beach, marked with a
first prize mention of a Fujifilm contest back in
1956. Ms Asano invites me to go upstairs on
the second floor. My heartbeat stops. Now I
understand. This centennial house had a life,
such a rich history, so heartwarming. The main
any children growing up on this very field. A
tourist would come for the first time and think
that this landscape is rather lovely, with its few
dwellings, surrounded by green grass and
facing the sea. His eyes would wipe around the
panorama and would discover here and there
houses that seem to be holding strong, but
when he would get closer, he would realize
that the facade on the sea-front side has been
completely torn apart and left as is. He would
also discover what seems to be the left-overs
of ancient properties that have been mashed
around and he would wonder why they don't
just roll the bulldozer and finish the job to
complete the beautiful green scenery.
room was one of those old photo studios with
high arched ceilings mounted with long blurred
white windows to let a beautiful natural light
diffuse into the house. The pillars, the flooring,
everything was made of the original wood,
tastefully refurbished by Mr. Asanao. We both
stand if front of a large open window, in our
bulky muddy boots, and Ms Asano whispers to
me with a stiff smile that in the bottom of her
heart, she would give anything to come and
live here again. The ocean view that we are
facing is magnificent. Before the Tsunami, it
was blocked by a high apartment building.
This is exactly what my volunteer group was
thinking when we saw the Asano's house last
weekend. The couple, retired for many years,
is very aware that they will not be able to live
in their property before quite a few years, if
they ever can. It is with a knot on the heart
that they ask us to help clean up and retrieve
what can be retrieved among the ruins of the
first floor of their house.
Volunteers get to work. Ancient vases, pictures,
sometimes of unknown people, an old BMW
motorbike, lots of very very old kimonos,
already worn out by time way before the
disaster. It is with the recovery of quite a few
cameras dating back to the early days of the
last century, that I learn that the Asano's
grand-father and father were photographers.
Christine Lavoie-Gagnon
06
2012 Ja n u a r y
According to a City survey, more than 40% of
the people want to go back to live in their
house, 20% in the neighborhood where they
grew up, and among the remaining who wish to
be relocated inland, the majority has lost
everything, house and family members.
Citizens are participating in opinion-exchange
meetings in order to put into place a new
reconstruction plan. The City has given itself
two years, so until March 2013, to fix this plan
on paper. The priority: an efficient emergency
plan, large evacuation roads, generators and
enough supplies in all shelters.
This new structure will take quite many years
to be implemented. When will Ishinomaki
residents be able to go back to their home and
live peacefully?
Originally from Quebec, Canada, she has lived in Japan for over 17 years and manages a
communications firm in Tokyo. However, she is most likely to be found in Ishinomaki with NADIA, an
organization she founded to aid the victims of the disaster.
2012 J a n u a r y
07
Hiroshi Sawada’s
Theory of Cafe
Evolution Vol.4
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Latte Art World
COFFEE
p, STREAMER
own coffee sho
10.
20
in
Y,
AN
COMP
Entering the Latte
Art Championship
Seattle is the holy land of coffee,
every time, I declared each
and the city's annual Coffee Fest
competition my last. But looking
attracts a great many coffee
back, I see that my efforts were
enthusiasts from all around the
halfhearted. My father passed away
world. The main event is the Free
while I was in the States
Pour Latte Art Championship.
participating in a competition and
Free-pour latte art is very popular,
the funeral was over by the time I
with contestants vying to show off
returned to Japan. I could not
their techniques at competitions held
properly send off my father, nor could
monthly across the U.S.A. Winning
I win a competition. I was truly
the Seattle Championship is the
despondent. But one day I realized I
dream of baristas everywhere. The
could never face my father again
winner receives a beautiful
after giving up like this, and it was
championship bracelet, not to
on that day I set my mind on winning
mention U.S. $5,000 in prize money.
the championship.
I was lucky enough to win the
I devoted myself to practicing,
Seattle Championship on September
drawing around 200 cups of latte art
14, 2008.
per day. I even took the milk pitcher
I began entering championships in
with me into the bath and poured hot
2006. I encountered latte art at a
water while soaking. I traced and
café one day while working in the
drew in the water over and over until
United States. On deciding to follow
the way the water changed with
this path at age 32, I took up the
different pouring methods soaked
challenge and entered a professional
into my brain. I did nothing but
school to study pouring techniques
practice day and night until the milk
and improve my skill.
pitcher became an extension of my
I crossed the Pacific to compete in
arm. That was how intent I was on
Chicago, Washington DC, Las
winning. One day, I realized I was
Vegas, and other locations across
concentrating on the swirl of my
the States. Each time, I spent large
urine as it was being sucked down
amounts of my own money on
the toilet. Frankly, I thought I had
airfares and other travel expenses.
had lost my mind.
Coming fifth was my best
But then came that crucial Seattle
achievement. Embarrassed and hurt
championship.
STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY
1F, Miyagawa Bldg, 1-20-28 Shibuya,
Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6427-3705
http://streamercoffee.com/
2012 J a n u a r y
09
create-your-own nabe
あー rise!
options on the
いい
だっ 湯
た♡
Photos (people/food) Susumu Nagao
How about a warm bath?
10
2012 Ja n
nua
u a r yy
2012 J a n u a r y
11
In love with the tub
The bath is goood……
Why do we feel so happy in hot water?
Because it helps us to relax, warm up, and feel refreshed and invigorated.
Perhaps you’
ve forgotten how good it feels to take a bath in a big tub?
Photography/ Tomoya Takai
12
2012 Ja n u a r y
Text/ JQR
2012 J a n u a r y
13
Oshima Camellia
Oil Shampoo
We asked Mitsuko Oshima
from Myojinyu to tell us about
The Sento:
An Enduring Institution
Interview/ JQR
Photography/ Tomoya Takai
QR
Quality
Review
Goods to Use at Home and
the Sento Long-Standing
Favorite Japanese Bath Products
A nice bath at the end of the day always
takes away the stress. That’s why you want
to make sure the products you use make you
feel good too. These may not be the trendiest
goods, but the more you use them the more
you will come to like these long-time favorite
Japanese bath products.
Product Stylist/ Mayumi Takemura
Nuisance Customers
Who Ignore Rules
Enjoying Seasonal
Events at the Sento
people. That’s why having a TV at
I was shocked to see someone
Sento place great importance on
the desk helps as a distraction
cutting their hair in the wash area.
marking seasonal changes. Very soon
(laughs).
Cut hair blocks up the pipes and is a
it will be the winter solstice
If I feel someone isn’t looking too
great annoyance to other customers.
(December 22nd) and on that day
well when I take their money, then I
People who wash their clothes in the
you should be able to enjoy a yuzu
make thorough inquiries (laughs).
basins are also a nuisance. How can
scented bath at any sento you go to.
Looking after the customers’ health
anyone relax at the bath while others
It’s refreshing to be enveloped by
is part of the attendant’s job. The
are doing their laundry there?
such a lovely aroma. I hope
regulars know each other well, so I
I could go on and on about
customers will take their time
can just say the word and I know
troublesome customers, but
warming up in the bath.
they’ll keep an eye out for me.
something that everyone tends to do
In additional to the occasional
Baths at sento always have the water
is leave the shower running when
seasonal traditions, the biggest event
temperature higher than you would at
they’re not using it. It’s such a waste
of the year is Sento Day, on October
home. Which means children can find
of water. Walking around the
10th. All the sento prepare special
it hard to get in. If I see a child
changing room without wiping the
bathwater, have lotteries, and some
Loofah on a rope
hesitating in front of the bath, then
body properly dry is the most
places even hold concerts inside.
I’ll leave the desk to go and help. I
important rule that’s often ignored. If
This is a day when we can entertain
scoop water from the bath with a
the floor of the changing room gets
our customers with festivities, which
basin and splash it over them from
wet and slippery it’s really dangerous.
also makes us happy.
the feet up to their chest, and that
Many children and elderly people
The sento used to be a place bustling
helps to slowly adjust the body to the
visit the sento. A wet slippery floor is
with lots of people. Thinking about it
water temperature. If you do that over
a danger not only for the old men and
now I feel like those were happier
and over again the temperature
women who are not so steady on
times, when everyone went to the
A bath sponge made of natural
vegetable fiber. Promote blood
circulation by massaging your
whole body with it as you wash
and achieve healthy skin with a
skincare method handed down
from previous generations. 420
yen. Inquiries: Marna 03-38291111
difference between the water and the
their feet, but also for the children
sento for a bath at the end of the
body is not so great and the body
running about, who could easily slip
day. There you’d be bound to meet
doesn’t get shocked by the heat
and fall.
someone from the town, conversation
when you get in. It’s not enough to
When customers break these rules I
would bloom and good relations
just have a shower. When children
speak to them directly. If children
could develop. Those days might be
I’ve helped like that come back
don’t listen, I speak to the parents.
over, but please do drop by now and
again, those are the best moments
It’d be too late if someone had an
then. Take a good long soak while
for me.
accident.
lying in a big tub and staring up at
It’s been thirty years since I first sat
at the attendant’s desk. At first I was
embarrassed about talking with naked
the high ceiling. It really is an
excellent feeling.
14
A long-selling product first released in
1975. The fine delicate foam cleans
the hair thoroughly, while the camellia
oil prevents moisture in the hair from
evaporating and drying out. It also has
the happy effect of curbing static
electricity in the hair during the dry
winter months. 630 yen. Inquiries:
Oshima Tsubaki 0120-457-178
Ofuro
2012 Ja n u a r y
Kiso umbrella
pine bath bucket
Red Box
Cow Brand Soap
Ever since it was first released in 1929, the
soap has been manufactured by the soap kettle
saponification method. The process takes an
entire week, but results in a high-quality soap
with the natural moisturizing ingredients
preserved. 105 yen. Inquiries: Cow Brand Soap
Kyoshinsha Co. 06-6939-2080
This wooden bucket is made from the
precious wood of umbrella pines, found in
the Kiso Valley of Nagano prefecture. This
wood is known for its lovely texture and
resilience to dirt and grime, and is made by
hand into bath buckets with exquisite care
by artisans. Also enjoy the unique aroma of
umbrella pine. 4,305 yen. Inquiries:
Yoshihiko 0120-50-4415
Retaining an
old-fashioned air
Teikokuyu
Making classic nabe dishes
Have a royal time after the bath
In the past sento used to be places where everyone
in town would go. Thus they were typically large
structures, not to mention lavishly decorated.
Teikokuyu, established in Higashi Nippori in 1916,
is one such sento. Even now its tiled roof and large
entrance curtain give it an imposing air. The main
building was reconstructed in 1953, but the garden
remains in its original state. The garden is
surrounded by the main building, creating breezy
ventilation that makes air conditioning unnecessary
even in summer. It is also a pleasant place to sit
after a bath, admiring the seasonal flowers.
The bathroom ceiling is a lofty ten meters high. In
the early afternoon, when sun shines through the
glass windows and reflects on the tiles, the whole
���������
������
area has a refreshing open feel. A high ceiling like
this draws hot steam higher and higher towards it.
Moisture remaining on the body after the bath
disappears on the spot, so even if there are many
people bathing and sweating, a state of cleanliness
is maintained.
The water temperature is rather high at 46℃ . It
can be cooled by adding extra water, but some
regulars complain that they’ll catch a cold. It is
generally recommended to warm up thoroughly in
the water, then gradually cool down afterwards. Go
The painting is by the late sento artist Toshimitsu Hayakawa, and
hasn’t been touched up since his death. The paintings have a
playfulness rarely seen in Hayakawa's work. To please the
children he painted an airplane in the men’s bath and a carrotshaped rocket being ridden by a rabbit in the women’s bath. The
peak of Mt. Fuji is decorated with a wreath during the New Year
period. Water in the deep tub is rather hot, so it is best to get in
the comparatively cooler medicinal herb bath first.
and shogi (Japanese chess) sets are available, and
the fridge is well-stocked with milk and other
refreshments. This sento is one you go to not only
to have a bath, but for relaxing in afterwards as
well.
Teikokuyu
Address: Higashi-nippori 3-22-3,
Arakawa-ku, Tokyo
Telephone: 03-3891-4637
Closed: Mondays
Hours: 15:00-24:00
A large pendulum clock hangs in the front of the changing room. Everywhere you
look there are retro items that are hardly ever seen these days, such as oldfashioned body scales and a head-hugging hair dryer in the women’s bath. The
refrigerator is filled with long-time favorites such as milk, milk coffee and fruitflavored milk.
16
2012 Ja n u a r y
It feels good to sit and look at the garden while sipping a cool drink
after a bath. Some customers even fall asleep while sitting in the
cool window area in summer. Seeing the colorful red carpet of
azaleas in May, and the different face of every season in the
garden, is another enjoyable aspect to coming here.
2012 J a n u a r y
17
A Beautiful
Traditional Building
Myojinyu
Retains the strong flavor of
a typical Showa sento
The Myojinyu sento (public bath house) opened
in 1957. Its temple-like exterior is in an
architectural style known as Miyagata, which
was common in the Kanto region. Unchanged in
appearance since it was originally built, this
building is a precious structure that has a strong
Showa atmosphere.
The tiles and frosted glass in the bathtub area
and entrance are originals that are now
irreplaceable. After decades of use they are worn
away in places, but that only adds a touch of
charming authenticity and a comforting feel.
Some customers have been coming to this sento
ever since it first opened, while others are from
neighboring condominiums who go there because
their bath at home is too small. Customers range
from parents with children to elderly people.
Sometimes small children can be seen being
taught old-fashioned games by their elderly
The magnificent depiction of Mt. Fuji was painted by sento artist
Kiyoto Maruyama. Sento artists use house paint to create their
works and are a dying breed these days. Below the picture is an
advertisement board that’s not in use anymore but has become so
well-known it stays there as part of the decor. Water on the
left-hand side is comparatively cooler medicinal water, while that on
the right-hand side features ultrasonically generated bubbles.
neighbors.
The water temperature is about 43℃ . Even now
the water is heated over a wood fire fuelled by
hand-chopped kindling. Water heated by a woodfire is popular because it is softer and thus better
for heating up the body.
Myojinyu is the sort of place that's hard to find
these days, a sento where you can sense the
warmth of a human touch.
The changing room is lively
with people watching baseball
and sumo on television, or
relaxing in the electric
massage chairs. Customers
have a view of the garden
and trees through the glass
doors that lead outside, and
can enjoy watching the
seasons change.
Myojinyu
Address: Minamiyukigaya 5-14-7, Ota-ku, Tokyo
Telephone: 03-3729-2526
Closed: 5th, 15th and 25th of every month (or the
next day if these fall on a Sunday or public holiday)
Hours: 16:00-23:30
18
2012 Ja n u a r y
(left) The line of simple taps and retro showers along the wall in the washing area, with taps positioned halfway between the shower and
floor. (right) The goldfish bowl in the changing room is a feature of sento décor that somehow heightens the air of nostalgia.
2012 J a n u a r y
19
The Joys of Soaking in Strange Bathtubs
The Beauty of Sento
Toshihiro Yashiro
Studied screen and theatre at Tama Art University, where
he drew attention for the Sento series he produced as his
graduation work. In 2000 he was an artist-in-residence both
in Japan and abroad, and produced his Kaitenkai series. In
2002 he was Guest Artist at the Academy of Media Arts
Cologne in Germany. He has also had work exhibited in the
Yokohama Triennial 2005 and Sculpture Week 2006 (Omi
International Arts Center, New York), amongst others.
Toshihiro Yashiro travels the country capturing precious images of the fast-disappearing world of the
sento (public bath houses). His “Sento Series,” photographs composed of men’s and women’s baths
joined together in symmetrical mirror images, is an artistic work that draws attention to the mysterious
beauty of sento. We spoke to him about the attraction of sento and the kinds of warmth he finds there.
Interview/ JQR
Noticing the Appeal
of Sento
about a theme for my graduation work.
taking photographs of them.
other places the decor is actually very
became much more difficult.”
closed a week later, so during that
One day I went and found it was the
At every sento he always observes
plain. Sento paintings were originally
Photography shoots always depend on
time I had meals with the owner, took
regular closing day, so I had to go to
minutely areas such as the entrance,
a form of advertising revenue, so it
behavior at that time in that place.
baths with him, and helped give the
“Before moving to Tokyo I used to
a different sento. That sento turned
the changing room, and the attendant’s
was essential for Tokyo sento to have
There’s no way for each party to know
sento its last rites.”
take baths at home, so I knew nothing
out to be completely different from the
desk. Then he takes a bath to confirm
something showy that stood out
the other’s real motives. It’s probably
Nowadays the number of sento artists
of sento,” Yashiro told us.
one I usually went to. I had a strange
for himself the feel of the place. He
because customers were more
natural for sento owners to be
in the entire country can be counted
Now, however, he travels the country
sense of feeling out of place, mingled
only photographs those sento in which
numerous.”
suspicious. Even so, there are some
on one hand, and most of the tiles in
taking pictures of them. Typical of his
with the novelty.”
he is able to relax in the tub and feel
The style of sento also differs by
owners who willingly accept my
those unique hues and tones are not
work on this theme is the Sento
In every facility he visits he
comfortable in. At some point he
area. “In cold regions such as
request to take pictures.
manufactured anymore. While the
Series, in which he joins pictures of
encounters a different scene, even
started using a large camera and
Hokkaido, the bathtub is
“While it’s become rarer, I have had
aging sento buildings may seem
men’s and women’s baths together
though it is in essence the same kind
taking pictures of the entire bathroom.
comparatively deep. The depth
social interaction with people. When
quaint, the damage to them is serious.
symmetrically. At first glance there is
of space—a huge bathtub. That was
This led to the creation of his “Sento
prevents the water cooling so you can
traveling around the country I mostly
Like Yashiro, we too would like to
something unfathomable and
something which greatly fascinated
Series.”
have a good hot soak in the tub.
sleep in the car, but sometimes I have
keep beautiful images of sento in our
perplexing about them, yet these
him.
The large camera was heavy and took
Conversely, in warmer regions such
been allowed to sleep in the changing
memories forever.
beautiful photographs convey a
“I took a fresh look at the details;
up a lot of space. Hence he started
as Kyushu the bathtub is on the
room of a sento I photographed. I
palpable sense of yesteryear even if
things like the lines of evenly spaced
using a car to get around, which
shallower side. This is apparently
visited one sento that was to be
they are devoid of organic life in the
taps, the tiles and wall painting above
naturally led him to start traveling to
because in hot places most customers
subject.
the bath, and the high ceiling that
sento all around the country.
don’t go to the sento to warm up so
Working on his graduation piece at art
connects the separate men’s and
university gave Yashiro the
women’s baths. That was when I
New Revelations
opportunity to take up sento as an
realized what a truly mysterious space
“There were lots of things I noticed
says that part of the fascination of
artistic theme.
it was.”
only after I’d visited sento all over the
sento is being able to get a glimpse
“After I went to university and started
Having discovered this appeal,
country. For example, the showy décor
of the local people’s lives. It is not
living on my own, I got into a daily
Yashiro changed the theme of his
that is the common stereotype for
simply a place to wash the body.
routine of going to the sento and
graduation work to sento. He began
sento—wall paintings, tiles and so on
Sento are an important part of the
soaking in the bath while I thought
traveling around the Kanto area,
—you only see that in Tokyo, and in
daily living space, and a hub of social
much as to work out the sweat.”
Apart from the photography, Yashiro
interaction. Catching even fragments
of conversation can tell you about life
in a particular town.
Treasured Encounters
Yashiro tries to convey his desire to
『SH IMOOOYU YAMAGATA 2010』
preserve images of the sento with his
camera as he politely asks for
permission to photograph. However,
he is often rebuffed.
“I started taking pictures of sento in
1993. The “Sento Series” came out in
1996, but the previous year there’d
been events that stayed in people’s
memories, like the Kobe earthquake
and the sarin subway incident. Maybe
having those events in the background
had something to do with it, but from
around that time on’doing shoots
20
2012 Ja n u a r y
『MASAM IYOKUJYO SAITA MA 1995』
『SUZUNOYU M IYAGI 1994』
2012 J a n u a r y
21
Touring Post-Disaster Tohoku
The post-disaster struggle for one hot spring town
Public Bathhouse Naka no Yu
Another day I tried the Ue no Yu
Tohoku Shinkansen Line
Fukushima Station
bath in my hotel, Yamaneya Ryokan
Tsuchiyu Onsen
Fukushima
Prefecture
Tsuchiyu Onsen Fukushima Prefecture
I took a bath before dinner. (adults 200 yen)
Fukushima
No. 1
Power
Plant
The tub fills up
with 4 or 5 people
One day I found a kokeshi doll at an antique market. When I discovered it came
There’s no shower
from a small hot springs town in the mountains of Fukushima Prefecture, I started
Soap and shampoo are not
wondering what kind of place it was. Then, the earthquakes hit. Nine months later
I heard the town’s reputation was still suffering, so I decided to pay a visit.
allowed
A Kerorin
The water was
brand bucket
Mt. Kimen
rather hot
I could spend a long time in the restorative
Hot spring hotels
Tsuchuyu Onsen Branch,
waters of this natural thermal spring.
along the riverside
Fukushima City Office
People from all over Fukushima city come
because “everyone loves the hot water here.”
Many hotels allow walk-in
visitors to use their hot
springs for a small fee.
And there are 4 free foot
A local regular
baths in town.
Cold soba noodles after a bath taste great
Mr. Jinohara made this work to embody
his hopes for recovery. It’s called
Aji Kobo Hisago
Fukko Kokeshi
A sumptuous set of soba &
Radiation levels are
measured 3 times a week
outside the Branch Office
Arakawa river, a tributary
Large kokeshi
contain small ones
of the Abukumagawa
Visitor numbers plunged due to fears about earthquakes and radiation.
Five hotels were forced out of business.
Onsen egg
5 side dishes (1,350 yen)
Chicken & nut meatball
that
I stopped for a few words with an old
lady cleaning six Jizo statues
Nameko
Golden mushrooms
Wild yam
mushroom
tempura
Even this old established hotel in the
center of town…
nestle close
and support
each other
Yukio Jinohara runs his soba
100% soba flour noodles
restaurant and also makes kokeshi
It’s like a kokeshi mandala
“Usually I’d use local soba flour to bring
“You did well to come
here!” she thanked me.
22
2012 Ja n u a r y
A giant kokeshi stands at
The old lady is 83.
the foot of the bridge.
Could the hot springs
Tsuchiyu Onsen is famous
be the reason her skin
as the village of kokeshi.
is so smooth?
out the local flavors, but with everyone
worried, that’s difficult right now” said
the chef.
Tsuchiyu Onsen is 70km from the
Fukushima No. 1 Power Plant.
Radiation levels on Nov. 21st were
0.17 microsieverts/hour, the lowest in
Fukushima city.
Illustrations&Report Itaru Mizoguchi
2012 J a n u a r y
23
Rejuvenate and Enjoy Yourself at a Health Spa
A Wonderland of Japanese Baths
Ooedo Onsen Monogatari
Address: Oumi 2-6-3, Koto-ku, Tokyo
Telephone: 03-5500-1126
Hours: 11:00 a.m.-9:00 a.m. (next day)
Open every day
Adults: 1,980 yen (2,180 yen on Saturday,
Sunday and public holidays), extra for
When three people get together the talk sometimes turns to baths and
hot springs. The ideal method is to travel around, stopping at different
hot springs to relieve any pains or aches from the journey, but going to
a health spa with a group of friends is a good alternative. There you can
enjoy a variety of baths and entertainments. The price is reasonable, and
you can have a fun time in the bath. Are you ready to bare yourself with a
few good friends? Why not give it a try?
ip
’ tr
irls sen
g
a On
hadoedo tari
e
W o O あnoga
t Mo い
う
け○ え
あい おか
うえ きく
お
springs in Tokyo?
Akane◆Of course there are. Hot
water comes out of the ground even
in cities. But if we’re talking about the
admission after 6:00 p.m.
Soba and sushi after a dip in a
hot spring Tastes soooo good!
kind of hot spring you could go to on
a trip with everyone … . I know! Ooedo
Onsen Monogatari.
Mami ◆ What’s that? A theatre? Is it
A girls' trip to the baths.
From right: Yukari
Hosoda, Akane Morita
and Mami Taniguchi.
All three are students at
a university in Mitaka.
some kind of story about hot springs
in the Edo period?
Akane◆No, no. It’s like a kind of
health spa, but it’s a big hot spring
that’s a recreation of an Edo era town.
You do stuff like take baths and play
Three Girls in Love
With Hot Springs
Yukari◆Yeah, Hottarakashi Onsen.
festival games. It’s great fun in a big
It’s fantastic ‘cos there’s great
group.
views of Mt. Fuji, but recently it’s
Mami◆ Brrr, it’s cold again today. I
Yukari◆ A lot of those health spa
gotten really crowded.
places have a retro theme don’t they?
need an extra pocket warmer.
Akane◆ Everyone got to know
With things like table tennis and coin
about it I suppose.
games.
saving electricity again this winter. I
Mami◆ I always go to Asama
wonder if shops and department stores
Akane◆At the Ooedo Onsen
Onsen when I’m back in Nagano.
Monogatari everyone chooses a cotton
will be cold?
The water’s really good.
Akane◆Who’s saying things like
kimono to wear. Then you go bath
Yukari◆ You go to hot springs a
hopping. And when you get hungry
that?
lot with your boyfriend, don’t you
Yukari ◆ People on TV.
Akane ◆ Politicians are the ones who
you can eat somewhere.
Mami? Isn’t it a bore to have to go
Mami ◆ Wow, that sounds fun. Where
in separately?
is it?
decide that. But the Tokyo Electric
Mami◆ Yeah, but it's recently
Power Company are the worst, aren’t
gotten popular to have a private
they? They’re the ones with nuclear
Akane : It’s in Odaiba.
Yukari ◆ O daiba’s over by Tokyo
roten-buro (outdoor hot springs) in
Bay, right? I can’t believe there’s a
power plants they said were safe for a
your hotel room . He’s really into it.
hot spring there.
million years.
Mami◆ I bet they keep warm while
Yukari◆What does he like so
Akane◆That’s for sure. I thought so
much about it?
too at first, but it’s amazingly close
they go on and on telling everyone
Akane ◆ I’m jealous. I’m from
by.
else to save electricity.
Tokyo so I only get to go to a hot
Yukari ◆ That’s right. Hey, why don’t
Yukari◆ In that case we could go
spring about once a year.
we go to an onsen—I wanna get warm.
Yukari◆Everyone’s talking about
24
Yoyo,
fortune c a t c h i n g g
oldfish
There -telling…
,
were s
o
things
We had many fun
a ball!
♨
A Quick Guide
to Baths in Japan
We worked off a
good sweat.All our
fatigue disappeared.
And the girls talk in
st!
the bath was the greate
comes to enjoying a bath.
addition to various types of baths it
Simply put, the sento is the place
has massages, beauty treatments and
you go to wash and have a daily
dining facilities. You can have fun at
Baths and public baths in Japan have
bath. The super-sento is a bit more
the game center or amusement area,
straight away. I don’t have to work
developed in several different
relaxing than that. It has saunas,
and take a nap if you get tired.
today, let’s go and chill out there.
directions. Apart from home baths and
medicinal baths, utaseyu (waterspout)
Inside, customers all wear rental
Akane◆You always go to a hot
Mami◆ Hurry up and find yourself
a boyfriend. Then you’ll get hooked
baths, and jet baths, and the entrance
gowns and cotton kimono to relax in.
spring with your Mom when you go
Mami◆ I’m with you! I won’t stop
onsens (hot springs), there are also
on hot springs.
thinking about taking a bath now
sento (public bathhouses), super sento
fee is usually about 1,000 yen. The
This kind of health spa is an
home to Yamanashi, don’t you Yukari?
Yukari◆ Aren’t there any hot
(deluxe bathhouses) and spa kenko-
usual custom is to go there once a
entertainment facility you'll likely
rando (health spas). What a luxury to
week to relax. The health spa is a
only find in Japan, one where you
have such a range of choices when it
super sento on a larger scale. In
can have fun in the buff!
2012 Ja n u a r y
2012 J a n u a r y
25
We went to relieve our fatigue…
But had so much fun
we completely forgot about it!
After choosing and changing into our cotton kimonos we were in old Edo! First it was off to
the bath house to try out the various baths. After relieving our fatigue there, we set off for the
lantern-lit main street, Hirokoji. There we enjoyed the lively amusement area and filled our
stomachs. Our only worry was tiring ourselves out having so much fun in the streets of Edo.
Yu ya
w
S l o ely
r
u
s
Lei axing
l
Re
We had a
great cha
t in the b
ath
This giant Edo style bathing area house
has 13 different types of hot springs,
such as Ooedo Onsen that draws mild
alkaline water from 1,400 meters below
the ground, and Kinu-no-yu with its
superfine bubbles that enfold the skin
like smooth silk. The mild alkaline
Foot bath
natural hot spring waters are believed
This feels
wonderful!
to be effective for muscle and joint
pain, and the temperature is high, but
you don’t have to worry because there
The foot bath is a small river flowing
are baths with water at lower
through a garden, designed with the
temperatures. Kiri-no-yu, a mist sauna,
theme of the 53 stations of the old
is a women’s only bath.
Tokaido travel route. Walking over
An outdoor wooden bucket
bath for women only. Have
the smooth round stones embedded
the tub all to yourself and
in the river bed hurts the soles of
completely relax. Choose
the feet, but at the same time is
from many other kinds of
stimulating and strangely refreshing
baths as well!
for the whole body. As there is no
need to undress here, couples and
families can enjoy it together.
足湯
Different kinds of baths such as the
湯屋
had
,
te,
I a d time
’m
oo
I
g
a
n ow
and isfied
s at
hot stone spa, sand bath, and fish
therapy provide a variety of
experiences.
*The hot stone spa, sand bath and
fish therapy cost extra.
広小路
Hirokoji
main street
Hirokoji is the main street of Ooedo
Onsen Monogatari, with a fire
watchtower at its center. Lanterns
strung overhead help create the feel of
old Edo. A wide range of food is
available here, from sushi to soba, and
even Sapporo ramen noodles and
The sand bath is a bed of sand heated by
steam to 43°
C which comfortably warms
the body. 1,570 yen for 15 minutes.
Women have a choice of
seven different cotton kimono
patterns, while men have a
Korean food. After eating have fun at
eryone
v
e
h
t
i
w
n
layi
It’s fun p
oldLost in
n ed
fashio
g a m es
amusements from yesteryear such as
blowpipe darts, superball scoop and
katanuki (mold-cutting). Don’t forget to
buy souvenirs at the Ryogokuya store
on the way back.
choice of three. These can be
rented from the Echigo store
after paying at the entrance.
♨
Relax in comfort at Iseya, the Ooedo
Onsen accommodation facility
Private rooms are
available to relax in
peace after having
had your fill of
enjoyment. When
You can enjoy many old-fashioned games and
amusements. If you can throw genuine iron
shuriken (above) like those used by ninja and hit a
target, you’ll win a prize. It’s a great way to relieve
stress.
26
2012 Ja n u a r y
you’ve rested, you
Try the Juwari soba “Rikyuan” (right),
can set out into Edo
Japanese style sweets “Kinoja” (left) or
once again
Edo sushi (center) if you feel like splashing
out a bit.
QR 1
The mode dial used to set
the mode for top-class
photographs is cast metal.
The grip, developed through
repeated tests in 0.1mm
units, is easy to hold and
prevents blurring.
Quality Review
P a n a s o n i c
L U M I X
D M C - G X 1
Panasonic LUMIX DMC-GX1
A Mirror-less Lens
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX1
Photography: Satoru Naito, Text: JQR
Panasonic and Olympus
They can also record full-HD
expanded on the “four thirds”
video, and these videos can be
and movies from a
standard that was used in
edited on the camera itself,
compact camera!
existing interchangeable lens
easily creating fond memories
reflex cameras and established
by dividing or removing all
Digital single-lens reflex (DSLR)
a new “micro four thirds”
unwanted scenes from the shot
cameras are ideal for shooting
standard in 2008. Thus,
footage.
expressive photographs because
cameras became smaller and
This one camera can take high
their lenses can be changed to
more compact, with even higher
quality photographs and videos
suit the subject. However, since
resolution.
and allows you to process them
they can be bulky and
Panasonic used this new
at the same time – a complete
expensive, many hesitate to buy
standard in the Lumix DMC-
studio on the move. The
one. A mirror-less lens resolves
GX1, their new model in the G
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX1 is
these issues.
Series. The DMC-GX1 is so
a compact camera that both
DSLR cameras have an internal
compact it can fit in your jacket
new and experienced
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photographers will enjoy using
project the image in the view
difficult to capture images of
thanks to its functionality.
finder. Alternatively,
animals and other fast moving
*GX1X fitted with its accompanying 14-
manufacturers can produce a
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The DMC-GX1 allows
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eight Creative Control effects.
High quality photos
● Enquiries: Panasonic Lumix Customer Center Tel: 0120-878-638
28
2012 Ja n u a r y
Touch the screen to select the
subject and the camera automatically
adjusts the focus and brightness, and
even takes the photograph straight
after it focuses on the subject.
URL: http://panasonic.jp/
Lumix DMC-GX1X, open price
Color: Black
2012 J a n u a r y
29
Japanese men
apan
J
t
u
o
b
A
Talking
を
話
そ
う
●
Monica Tamanaha
Christine Abelarde
nts
A Conversation
with Foreign
Residents
o women
w
t
e
s
e
h
T
!
eir views
h
t
d
e
r
a
h
s
ign Reside
with Fore
nversation
A Co
Are Japanese men attractive?
This month JQR has decided to sit down with two foreign women to engage
into a very lively girls' talk and chat about Japanese men. Are Japanese men
attractive to foreign women? Could local idols be considered sex-symbols in their
eyes? What are the most commonly noticed strong points or weaknesses of the
Japanese opposite gender? Let's see if it is true that tastes are very cultural...
them as guys!
seems more healthy. I think it was good
Japanese men!
Monica: I remember a girl from work
to give a fresh look as a change to the
who used to say that she was in love
local “engineer” type. Well, I don't know
Both: LOL
with a foreign man because he was
about you, but to me the first attractive
such a gentleman as he was opening
point from a person is the body, you
JQR: What comes to mind when you
the door for her. But I told her “No no
always catch the attention of people by
think about Japanese male idols?
no! That's normal!” and she asked me at
something...physical!
Christine: There are just two types of
Japanese men and my answer was that
JQR: Today we're going to talk about
Japanese idols for me, the comedians
and what they call “handsome-beautiful”
idols. But these to me are rather “pretty”
than “handsome” type! These “Pretty
male idols” are very “Metro” so it's quite
changing from where I come from.
Monica: I have been in contact with
Japanese men's style since I was a
child, but even still, idols and young
guys are strange to me. I often think, “Oh
my god! Why is this guy wearing hairclips?” They look so feminine!
Christine: Yes they look and act
feminine. Of course there are other
athletic types as well, which is more my
type, but it hits you when you first have
a glance, you think they are definitely
feminine. Actually, you don't even see
30
2012 Ja n u a r y
that time what I thought was strange in
I thought it was funny to see men
looking at the mirror all the time to
check their hair!
JQR: So Japanese men are too
feminine?
Monica: They are too feminine and at
the same time they are very... like,
JQR: How is it elsewhere?
Monica: The body! For example in
Venezuela, as everybody goes to the
“attacking” you !
Christine: Attacking you?!!?
Monica: Yes! That is the reason why I
don't go to the beach alone, even
beach, they all care about their body. So
though I love it!
back then I told my friend, maybe Japan
Christine: Oh!
will be like this too in 10 years. And
now all Japanese people are taking care
Monica: Well, for me the thing I don't
like about Japanese guys is that
of their body too, going to the gym, etc.
they...follow girls.
Christine: Yes I think it's changing. I
Christine: What do you mean?
remember at my first company here, we
were many fresh grads from overseas,
most of us with athletic builds, pretty
girls and handsome guys, which to me
Monica: To me, it happens all the time!
Christine: Stalkers?
Monica: Yes! Nothing scary, but it's
something I don't like. When a girl
Monica Tamanaha
42 years old. From Okinawan origins, she grew up and lived
most of her life in Venezuela. She resides in Narita since
2003 and works at a Duty-Free shop at the airport. She is
the mother of a 25 year-old son who lives in Canada.
Christine Abelarde
32 years old. She arrived in Japan 11 years ago as a student
with a government scholarship in a Professional College. She
now is an IT engineer for market implementation of new
products at a multi-national consulting firm. An outdoor sports
fan, she is also the founder of “NAC Nippon Adventurers
Club” and organizes group expeditions.
2012 J a n u a r y
31
Japanese men
something trendy
compared to here, where in marketing,
overseas, they are
every product from cell phones to
going to copy that
shampoo has a cycle of only three
too.
months. In my country we don't have
Christine:
that much extravagance, we are still
Fashion, Modeling
nearly a third world country, so people
industry, Movie
don't think much about fashion. Apart
industry, well the
from metropolitan areas, where it's
whole media
changing. But I also think that the fact
industry drives the
that we are a very strict Catholic country
trends. So
is a big factor. It takes time to make new
whatever people
trends being accepted.
see on TV, they
Monica: I don't think religion affects
mimic it. So for
doesn't show interest into a guy, he
should stop going after her. Sometimes
my friends say “You are so lucky! He's a
very handsome man!” But if I'm not
interested, I want men to leave me
alone. I think it's cultural.
It doesn't happen too much now, but for
example at my job when someone asks
whether I am married or not, if I answer
no or say that I am alone, the very next
day, they bring a picture and want to
more to a type of body or lifestyle,
religion has nothing to do with that.
JQR: Where does that feminine trend
Christine: Well, I think it slows down a
come from?
lot the changes to new trends. Things
Christine: We are going to a more
Monica: To me I feel that when you
change so quickly in Japan!
“Metro” style. Before, Japanese men
bring something new to Japan, people
couldn't cook or do any household
will use it their way until they go outside
chores. Now you can see it's 50/50
the country and then discover what is
when you look at young people. Japan
for women and what is for men, just like
used to be in its own “isolated world,” so
for the hair-clips, and the accessories!
introduce me to someone!
different from other countries. But
Christine: Ha ha! That's an interesting
nowadays, with the globalization, people
insight! I never thought about it that way.
JQR: That's because you are beautiful!
travel everywhere all the time. Japanese
But it's true that now men here are
people have integrated more Western
starting to use make-up, foundation, they
Monica: Even though I know it's
living styles into their own and at the
are trimming their eyebrows... There are
same time, they have spread their own
new make-up lines for men.
something very common here, to me it is
still extremely shocking.
Christine: To me I get annoyed by the
fact that Japanese men are not
straightforward. They always seem to
hide something.
JQR: So if you take an example of a
Japanese idol, say Takuya Kimura,
who was considered very feminine 15
years ago, who is now 40, even still
with soft traits, but now with more
“mannish” looks. Do you think it is the
fashion to the West. For example “Metro”
Monica: Well I think they have to take
is much more Asian than Western. But
care of their skin too, and shave, but
now you can see the influence in other
make-up... no! Only powder maybe, as
Western countries.
sun-protection.
JQR: You are from Asia as well, so
good! Definitely ! LOL
should follow!
environment to live in and I think they
Christine: Yes!
are hard-workers, so that is a strong
point compared to more individualistic
JQR: So what other advise would you
countries.
“export” to other countries?
Monica: The guys now are not dressed
that feminine anymore. I think that the
Both: SILENCE....
TV is very very strong and the
Christine: I actually don't know!!
government is trying to teach how to
Monica: Japanese women would be
change that.
better to answer that question! But
Christine: Well every trend needs a
saying this, I see young Japanese men
drive and the media are very strong here.
are much nicer nowadays, they do a lot
Why weren't there anymore bananas in
for the family. I even surprised myself
stores all of a sudden? That's because
being attracted by a cute man for the
that “Asa-banana” (morning-banana) diet
first time in the train yesterday!
came out on TV!
Monica: Well for example at the airport,
JQR: Masculine type?
you could rarely see Japanese pilots in
the past, as they were taught at school
Monica: Ha ha! Yes of course!
to act with the group, not how to take
Christine: Well as Japanese men are
responsibilities. Since a few years, you
group oriented, it obviously means that
have all sort of soap-operas showing the
they care about their family, but it also
life of pilots, of doctors, etc. Then
means that they don't only think about
suddenly you see more and more
their own little selves. They also care
Japanese pilots walking around Narita!
about the community, which is great.
Christine: Individualism is still very
The body is
so important.
low here. Of course, I meet a lot of very
independent men everyday, but it's not
the general tendency.
JQR: Who would be your “type of guy”
among Japanese famous people?
Christine: I don't know... I don't watch
movies so often...
Monica: Ken Watanabe!
Christine: Oh yeah yeah !!! I agree!!
JQR: He's not feminine at all!
Monica: That's why!
Christine: There are exceptions! I love
that! I'll go with that, that's my type!
JQR: Very far from the members of
“Arashi”!
Christine: Very far! Ah-aha! Although
my friend loves them!
Monica: I can't even remember their
names, because they are not my type!
Both: LOL !
Yes!
I prefer
athletic type.
Both: But the eyebrow trimming is
your country too?
Christine: I'm
from Asia, but I
think that East and
South-East are
Both: No!!
Well, first we don't
slightly different.
have that much
Everything is fashion here. For example
money to spend
if it is trendy to shave off all body hair,
into fashion! So
everyone is going to do it. Now they
men are not that
travel more abroad and so if they see
much groomed
2012 Ja n u a r y
That makes a safer and better
isn't this trend in
age?
Monica: No, it is not the age.
32
Takuya Kimura too, that is a trend.
new fashion trends. If a type of dress fits
Monica: I think men in other countries
2012 J a n u a r y
33
Japan and Me
VOI.
7
Here's to Japanese
MINGEI!
My home is an ultra-modern apartment in central Tokyo. The walls
are smooth, white, and entirely devoid of surplus adornment. It's a
living environment in which everything feels factory-made and
34
What is it about folk art
ceramics that touches us so?
standard-issue. To take the edge off this rather sterile look, I
Firstly, the fact is that these items constitute part of the traditional
decided to use mingei (folk art) bowls, plates and such for daily
Japanese lifestyle, more precious now than ever due to its decline
meals. For the benefit of non-Japanese readers, by "folk art" I
due to the march of modernization. Trends like the current
mean popular (as in, for the masses) art craft items.
enthusiasm for getting back to nature, and the popularity of organic
But in Japan, such popular art can reach heights of rare beauty.
produce, may also be linked to this renewed appreciation of
Folk art pottery is practical stuff, designed for everyday use rather
Japanese tradition.
than centuries of display as art objects, and is made from simple
Another reason for the appeal of folk art ceramics is that they have
clay-like materials. The shapes and colors of these items of
none of the pretentiousness or affectation so often seen in
tableware reflect their obvious purpose. In many cases, part of the
contemporary art objects and paintings, and instead speak straight
surface has been left unglazed, allowing a glimpse of the rough
to the viewer's heart. No special knowledge is required to enjoy
texture beneath. This serves to highlight, in exquisite contrast, the
folk art; nor must one absorb complex art theory. The pleasure of
gloss of the glaze.
folk art is something conveyed directly and simply.
Most Japanese these days have lost any attachment they once felt
The third reason is that folk art, with its unadorned, unpretentious
to this sort of pottery, dismissing it as "vulgar" and preferring
air, radiates a kind of energy that passes through our skin and
plastic products to those made from materials like clay, wood and
goes straight to our nerves. In the case of folk art tableware, the
bamboo; a shift attributable in part to a more American lifestyle. It
aesthetic appeal of the form and materials is immediately obvious,
is left to artists and intellectuals to appreciate the dynamic beauty
and one feels that using this sort of plate would make everyday
of folk art.
living more enjoyable, more laid-back.
The mingei undo arts and crafts movement driven by such
Folk art ceramics made from such a simple material as clay offer
individuals may be traced back to the pre-war years. Muneyoshi
peace of mind, a kind of serenity. In the vein of that famous line in
Yanagi, the founder of the movement, was a philosopher who had
Genesis: "Dust (soil or clay) thou art, and unto dust thou shalt
the idea to encourage renewed understanding of the value of
return".
Japan's popular arts, which by this time was fully exposed to
Back to childhood?
competition from Western-influenced standardized goods. The
Francoise Morechand, Essayist
-The Modern is in the Traditional-
childhood and your mother's protection. Folk ceramics with their
In a different field, what is it that makes Hermes bags so popular?
lustrous glaze appeal not to our powers of reason, but our souls,
The fact that they are individually, lovingly hand-stitched by
without a hint of artifice. Even food feels comfortable on ceramics
masters of their craft.
like these, because they don't let heat escape the way thinner
Here in the 21st century, handmade goods of this sort are
dishes do.
precisely what constitute genuine luxury. They are indubitably
What constitutes true
luxury today?
humanity's true cultural heritage. They are also vivid proof that
In modern-day society, where materialism rules and the market is
Surely the craftsmen and women who make these things ought to
dominated by products (I repeat, too often made of plastic) not
be respected and valued, being as they are the final link between
made to last, folk art ceramics crafted individually with love, and
true luxury and ourselves. True luxury lies in that which is natural,
fired carefully at just the right temperature night and day for as
in simple beauty, elegance and wisdom. All values sorely lacking
long as it takes to achieve the perfect result, are all slightly
in the 21st century, where there's a tendency to charge head-on
different. Such ceramics, originally made for everyday use by
into folly. Wouldn't you agree?
human beings cannot live surrounded by only concrete, steel and
plastic.
ordinary people, are paradoxically now luxury goods.
mingei undo, which allowed Japan to have its own unique identity
Folk art ceramics invariably have a certain "roundness" to them.
Francoise Morechand (Fashion essayist)
without modeling itself on other countries, also helped to restore
Even square plates have curves. Fashioned on a manual potter's
dignity to a nation that had lost confidence in the wake of its
wheel, even the corners have what one might call a "human" feel.
defeat in 1945.
There are no sharply-defined angles, no clear edges between
I vividly remember in the 1960s heading frequently to Shinjuku,
surfaces, and nothing is geometric. No doubt the plates have been
haunt of the capital's thinkers and artists. Here people sipped
made robustly chunky with durability in mind, but this very
Born 1936 in Montparnasse, Paris. Came to Japan in 1958 after studying Japanese at the Sorbonne. Worked as a teacher on NHK's Tanoshii
Furansugo French language education series, and lecturer in French at Ochanomizu Women's University, before returning to France in 1964. Came
to Japan again in 1974 to manage Chanel's beauty department there. With a career spanning French teacher, TV “tarento”, writer, and fashion
coordinator, in 2004 Morechand's longstanding contribution to Franco-Japanese cultural ties was recognised by the French government with the
awarding of the Légion d’honneur. Visiting professor at Kyoritsu Women's University. Overseas trade advisor to the French government. North
Asia representative for the Conseil Supérieur des Français de l'Etranger (CSFE). International advisor to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary
Art, Kanazawa. Ishikawa Prefecture tourism ambassador.
coffee served in "folk art" cups while listening to classical music
sturdiness is part of their attraction. It is this thickness that
and contemplating the highly idiosyncratic prints of Shiko
conveys the feel of the raw material, clay, an "honest" material if
Munakata on the wall.
you like, one that makes no attempt to pretend it is anything more.
The craze for Japanese folk art subsequently crossed the ocean,
The very simplicity of folk art is reassuring. Those who touch it
and today it is highly prized by cultured individuals of many
feel protected. Folk art serving plates, platters, vases and bowls
Leading creator of adorable “healing art”. All her work, starting with calligraphy employing her Level 7 calligraphic skills, and including her
illustrations and essays, is suffused with a warmth that soothes whoever picks it up. Her diverse portfolio includes paintings for the interior of Le
Comptoir de Benoit, chef Alain Ducasse's first restaurant venture in Osaka; murals at the En-Japan head office, plus illustrating, brand logos, wall
paintings and essays. She was also responsible for the “Japan Trump” playing cards showcasing famous sightseeing spots nationwide (supported by
the Japan National Tourism Organization), extending this concept further across Asia with a sub-brand for the Singaporean tourism office, and
Indonesian Trump cards.
nationalities.
enfold you in a warm, maternal embrace. It's like returning to
http://www.sensyuyasuko.com/
2012 Ja n u a r y
Yasuko Sensyu (Illustrator)
2012 J a n u a r y
35
Sake to Drink From a Wineglass
In Praise
of
Fine Sake Vol.
Hidakami Daiginjo
9
Hirakou Brewery
Address: Shimizu-cho 1-chome 5-3, Ishinomaki-shi, Miyagi
Telephone: 0225-22-0161
●
●
●
●
●
Alcohol content: 17~18% ● Seimaibuai (rice milling percentage): 40%
Amino acidity: 1.4
Nihonshu-do (Sake Meter Value + dry, -sweet): +6
Acidity: 1.4 ● Rice: Banshu Yamada-nishiki
Volume: 720ml ● Price: 3,262 yen (tax inclusive)
Text/ Kaori Haishi (sake sommelier) Photography/ Susumu Nagao
A Striking Gentle onsistency
be wrong to think that the fruity taste,
of lemon, washed down with some
reminiscent of pears and apples, stayed
lightly chilled Hidakami Daiginjo while
Ishinomaki, Miyagi prefecture. Hirakou
the same all that time. Instead, it
the rich umami flavor lingers on the
Brewery stands proud and dignified amid
gradually shifts towards a dryer and
tongue. Just the thought of it makes my
the wreckage of this town, which was
more acidic taste. Just the right
mouth water. With this sake’s very
devastated by the Great Eastern
suggestion of rice together with a clean
drinkable qualities, I think there’s a very
Earthquake and tsunami. On the day of
aftertaste further help to make this sake
good chance that the bottle would be
my visit, a constant rumble of heavy
easy to drink. Not a single jarring flaw
empty before you knew it. Hidakami
machinery in the back yard echoed
can be found in this highly polished
captivates everyone, from sake
through the buildings. The brewery was
gem, which exhibits all the beauty and
beginners to sake connoisseurs.
also threatened by the tsunami, but you
quality that you would expect of a sake
wouldn’t know that from the face of the
brewed from the queen of sake rice
Repair work on the brewery is now
owner, Takahiro Hirai. His face is
varieties, Yamada-nishiki.
complete and production of this year’s
sake finally underway. “Many others are
wreathed in a gentle smile—not a cloud
in sight. Just like his sake.
“With fish, it’s gotta be Hidakami,” is
worse off than us, so we can’t complain,”
what the locals say, and this indicates
says President Hirai. I wonder how the
Hidakami Daiginjo is a special sake
just how well Hirakou sake goes with
brewery’s post-disaster motto of “We
that’s somewhat difficult to obtain, even
fish. Something like fatty yellowtail or
won’t be beaten,” in contrast to the far
locally. Although Daiginjo is usually
mackerel sashimi, or maybe sablefish
more common “Gambaro,” will be
associated with a strong bouquet, the
pickled in sweet Kyoto miso. At this time
reflected in their sake. I can’t wait for
bouquet of this one is very mild. This
of year, however, I’d go for grilled
the first pressing.
means you can enjoy drinking it slowly,
oysters. Succulent, piping hot freshly
perhaps along with a meal. You would
grilled oysters with just a small squeeze
2012 J a n u a r y
37
Information
Citizen Power Helps Repair
Typhoon Damage to the
Kumano Pilgrimage Routes
In September the Kii Peninsula
experienced record amounts of rain
due to the powerful typhoon Talas, the
twelfth named storm in the 2011
typhoon season. This resulted in
large-scale landslides and caused
great damage to the world heritage
sacred sites and pilgrimage routes in
the Kii mountain range that featured in
the October issue of JQR (distributed
Sept. 7th). At one point the major
access routes to the three grand
shrines of Kumano and other tourist
sites in southern Wakayama prefecture
were severed.
On October 29, two months after the
typhoon, an environmental
conservation event was held which
involved walking along the ancient
Kumano pilgrimage routes, cleaning
and repairing the paths along the way.
This event had in fact already been
planned before the typhoon occurred.
There were doubts as to whether it
could still take place, but it eventually
did after changes to the route.
When the severity of the typhoon
damage became known, applications
poured in from people wanting to take
part in this activity. Two hundred and
forty three people took part, well over
the number originally planned for. They
came not only from the surrounding
Kinki region, but from as far afield as
Tokyo and Kanagawa.
On the day of the event the weather
Wakayama
Won’t be Beaten!
was fine as everyone walked along the
ancient route carrying heavy bags of
soil. Along the way they carried out
repairs, scattering soil on the damaged
paths and stamping it down. They also
collected rubbish that had been blown
about by the typhoon.
Passing On World Heritage
Sites to Future Generations
Thanks to tireless recovery efforts
such as these, accommodations,
tourist facilities and the transport
network are back to normal. The
Wakayama prefectural government has
now begun an environmental
conservation initiative, attempting to
get one hundred thousand of the
visitors to the prefecture, businesses
and schools to help preserve the World
Heritage sacred pilgrimage routes for
future generations. With “Wakayama
Won’t be Beaten!” as their motto,
recovery efforts from the typhoon
damage is now well underway.
Ordinary citizens are actually not, in
principle, supposed to be involved in
restoration work on world heritage
sites. However, because the registered
heritage site is a path, ordinary people
can participate directly in the work if
they attend a lecture given by staff
from the Wakayama World Heritage
Center with the official in charge of
cultural treasures in the relevant town
in attendance.
Businesses willing to participate in this
environmental conservation initiative
are being sought. For more details,
contact either of the places listed
below.
Contact
Wakayama Tourist Promotion Section
http://www.pref.wakayama.lg.jp/
Telephone: 073 441 2424
Wakayama World Heritage Center
http://www.sekaiisan-wakayama.jp/
Telephone: 0735 42 1044
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2012 Ja n u a r y
2012 J a n u a r y
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