Dual Reservoir Master Cylinder Conversion Kit

Dual Reservoir Master Cylinder Conversion Kit
(Part#: 805223-CJDUAL, 376896)
NOTE- This kit is designed to work with the late CJ2A, CJ3A, CJ3B, CJ5, and CJ6.
- The MB, GPW, and early CJ2A, will require a later pedal shaft bracket (riveted style) to use this kit.
- The M38A1 will require drilling through the factory pedal shaft bracket.
Rough idea of assembled bracket and
master cylinder...this is how it will assemble
in your Jeep.
This master cylinder kit is intended to install
to your Jeep without cutting or grinding. You
will need a 3/8” drill bit, to drill 4 holes in your
frame to mount the bracket, and a double
flare tool, or a buddy with a double flare tool
to modify your existing brake lines. You will
retain your factory original master cylinder
bracket.
Disassembly:
You will need to remove your existing master cylinder, clutch pedal assembly,
and the brake pedal assembly.
Step 1:
You will need to find the main MC bracket, the brake/clutch tube support, and two 5/16” x ¾” bolts and lock
nuts. Using the extra holes in the top of the MC bracket, install the support bracket as shown. This will be used
as your template, to make your marks for drilling the frame.
Step 2:
With the bracket used as a template, use the clutch tube to locate on the frame, taking special care to get the
bracket level on the frame.
Step 3:
Using a C clamp or a buddy, mark one hole with the template, remove template, and drill to 3/8”. Using the first
hole, use supplied hardware to bolt template to outside of frame, square, and drill the three remaining holes.
After you are done drilling the remainder of the holes, remove template, and remove clutch tube support bracket.
It’s time to move the MC bracket to the inside of the frame. The bracket is built with a slot that allows you to slide
the bracket over the factory rivets that secure the pedal bracket to the frame. Using supplied 3/8” hardware, bolt
bracket to frame. (It may be necessary to ream some of the holes you previously drilled to account for variance
in the manufacturing process).
Step 4:
Using a C clamp or a buddy, mark one hole with the template, remove template, and drill to 3/8”. Using the first
hole, use supplied hardware to bolt template to outside of frame, square, and drill the three remaining holes.
Be careful to route fuel lines
and wiring through the recessed
portion of the bracket.
After you are done drilling the remainder of the holes, remove template, and remove clutch tube support bracket.
It’s time to move the MC bracket to the inside of the frame. The bracket is built with a slot that allows you to slide
the bracket over the factory rivets that secure the pedal bracket to the frame. Using supplied 3/8” hardware, bolt
bracket to frame. (It may be necessary to ream some of the holes you previously drilled to account for variance
in the manufacturing process).
Step 5:
With the bracket mounted to the frame, it is time to move on to the master cylinder. The Wilwood master
cylinder used in this kit, has installed from Wilwood, 10lb residual pressure valves (drum brakes require 10
lbs of residual line pressure to keep the shoes in contact with the drum). If you are installing this MC in a disc
brake application, follow the included Wilwood instructions and remove the residual pressure valve/valves.
Using the supplied 5/16”x 1” hardware, bolt master cylinder to bracket loose. The MC bracket has slotted
holes, to allow you to shift the master cylinder for pushrod alignment, which we will adjust later.
Step 6:
With the MC sitting in the bracket, begin to re assemble the pedal assemblies. Install included master
cylinder push rod, on brake pedal arm.
Step 7:
With pedal assemblies installed, install brake/clutch tube support bracket, using 5/16” x ¾ hardware, and
outside cotter pin. Alignment of the support bracket is not critical, as long as the cotter pin fits, its only job
is to add some rigidity to the bracket assembly.
At this time, you can go back and align master cylinder
with pushrod. With master cylinder aligned, tighten
master cylinder bolts.
Step 8:
At this point, you can start bending some brake line. The rear port to the front brakes, the front port to
the rear brakes. Use the recess or hole in the master cylinder bracket to route rear brake lines. An inline
pressure switch for the brake lines will need to be plumbed in. Also, for those of you with disc brakes,
remember to plumb in you residual pressure valves (2lb).
Step 9:
Using supplied hoses, and reservoirs, find a nice accessible point to mount the remotes (firewall, fender?)
Remember to adjust pushrod, to return brake pedal to a factory height, and tighten the jam nut. Bleed
master cylinder using the bleeder valves on the engine side of the MC. Bleed brakes, starting at the point
furthest from the MC.
If you should run into some issue, please feel free to call us at the shop, M_F, 9-5 EST at 1-888648-4923, or email us at [email protected]. Feedback is always welcome.