Digital Destination Guide - Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

SoutheaSt aSia / december 2015
the beSt of the
Digital
Destination
Guide
Philippines
DECEMBER 2015
|
editor’s note
F R O M L E F T: N A PAT R AV E E WAT; C H R I S T O P H E R K U C WAY
WITH ITS SWEEP OF MORE
THAN 7,000 ISLANDS, IT’S
ONLY NATURAL THAT
the Philippines would have much to offer visitors. The odd thing then is that
the tropical archipelago is so often overlooked when it simply shouldn’t be. So
where better to start than a week-long break at a one-of-a-kind getaway? In
“Your Own Private Island,” we scour the length of the nation for these isles set
aside for insiders and do not come away disappointed. These five personal
slices of paradise, each with its own allure, are the perfect break from the
norm and will have you fall for the Philippines in a big way. You’ll come away
feeling that you’ve stayed with your new extended family, one you will want
to revisit.
Of course, there are as many diversions in the Philippines as there are
islands. If you haven’t discovered the local affinity for style, then you’ve been
missing out. Within this e-guide, we stop in to see designer Anne Marie
Saguil (“Filipino Flair”) to uncover what inspires her label—the answers turn
out to be both local in
detail and global in scope.
For a peek at a pristine
corner of Asia, look no
further than “The Next
Pride of Palawan.” This is
a tale of sustainable
tourism and will have you
appreciate what is truly
special about this
archipelago. Best of all, it
will make you want to
return, which is why this
e-guide is guaranteed to
come in handy in planning
your next break.
@CKucway
[email protected]
From My Travels
It was far too long between
vacations and I needed a
break. That’s where the
suggestion of a private island
in the Philippines fit into my
plans perfectly. I was the only
foreigner on the domestic
flight to nowhere, even sat
beside the mayor. Arriving at
the island for five days of
nothing but fresh seafood,
cold beer and airport novels, I
had made the perfect choice
for a break. I won’t reveal
where the island is, but the
Philippines has thousands of
others to choose from.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / D EC E M B E R 2 0 1 5
3
DEALS | T+L READER SPECIALS
From a foam party in Cebu to an educational experience for
children in Manila, the Phililppines is packed isle-to-isle with fun.
MANILA & BORACAY
Discovery Group
Discovery Primea, in Makati
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Discovery Shores Boracay
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the initial hotel of stay or at the
other two properties, including
breakfast. The Deal Discovery
Philippines: three nights in a
standard room, from US$334
for two; book by March 27,
2016. Save 33%.
preferredhotels.com.
MANILA
Marco Polo Ortigas
Feel extra special with
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Lounge benefits: from a butler
to laundry and pressing
services that’ll leave you
looking sharp and ready to hit
the town. Meals are at
20-percent discount, and all
soothing spa treatments are 15
percent off. The Deal Sky’s the
Limit: two nights in a Premier
room, from P9,750 for two,
through December 30. Save
25%. marcopolohotels.com.
Amorita,
on Panglao
Island, Bohol.
MANILA
SUPER SAVER
Crimson Resort & Spa Mactan, Cebu
Shoot yourself off to cloud nine with a visit to Crimson’s
Azure Beach Club, whose new Saturday activity, launched
in October, lets you burn off all-you-can-eat brunch by
diving into a pool of sudsy foam. The Deal Best Rate
promotion: a night in a Deluxe room, from P6,000 for two,
through December 31. Save 60%. crimsonhotel.com.
4 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Holiday Inn
The kids get tickets to Kidzania
Manila, where they can take on
the roles of hotel professionals
at the miniature Holiday Inn &
Suites, from checking guests in
to setting up dining tables.
Don’t worry, they’ll be paid,
too. The Deal Family Getaway:
a night in a Deluxe room, from
P5,998 for two adults and two
children, through December 31.
Save 20%. holidayinn.com.
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F A M O R I TA ; C O U R T E S Y O F C R I M S O N R E S O R T & S PA M A C TA N C E B U
BOHOL
Amorita
As a sweet gesture from this
Little Darling, the resort’s
English name, the two of you
are treated to an hour of Raja
signature massage, an
afternoon tea set, and free
yoga sessions if your stay falls
on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
The Deal Serendipity: two
nights in a one-bedroom seaview suite, from P27,500 for
two, through May 31, 2016.
Save 27%. amoritaresort.com.
Urban whimsy
adorns MNL
Boutique Hostel.
ON THE MAP
Williamsburgos
Manila’s Burgos district sheds its gritty
reputation and sprouts funky
restaurants and bars, drumming up an
artsy vibe that recalls, STEPHANIE ZUBIRI
dares to say, Brooklyn. PHOTOGR APHED
BY FR ANCISCO GUERRERO
6 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
MNL Boutique Hostel
N
This centrally located hostel
offers clean rooms, happy
colors, bright murals, free
Wi-Fi, book exchanges and
a “cool-cierge” service for
the best insider tips and
tourist information. 4688 B.
Valdez St. corner Santiago
Street; mnlboutiquehostel.
com; doubles from P1,400.
1
2
8
TOP: COURTESY OF T WO CHIC; CHAIR: COURTESY OF KISHI
Café Curieux
Run and overrun by Gallic
expats, it’s your typical bar
du coin: Pastis, Edith Piaf
and the scruffy Frenchie
barman serving you free
shots of their house rhum
arrangé while a cigarette
dangles oh-so-precariously
9
K A L AYA A N
AV E N U E
N ICA NOR
GA RC I A
STRE E T
10
5
11
Two Chiic
Manila.
ARRIBA
ARRIBA!
Kish’s Gregoria chair.
Pink Panda
This clothing line has the
kind of breezy bohemian
looks every woman wants.
Think graphic tunics and
evening rompers with
hand-beaded detailing. 6239
Mañalac St., Poblacion,
Makati; 63-2/899-2435;
twochic.com.ph.
4
6
Beni’s Falafel
Two Chic Manila
M A K ATI
AV E N U E
7
At this three-table hole-inthe-wall is the best falafel
and baba ghanoush in town.
That is if you can find it!
Seasoned clients call in
advance, get their food to
go—and know to ask for
extra fried eggplant in their
sandwiches. 4364 B. Valdez
St.; 63-906/349-1300; falafel
for two P270.
This Southeast Asian diner
with quirky décor and great
cocktails serves cheeky
versions of regional faves
such as “Thai Beef and
Daughter-in-Law’s Eggs” or
the deep-fried tilapia dish
called “We Fried Nemo.” GF
Y2 Residence Hotel, 4687
Santiago St.; 63-917/8393790; cocktails and sharing
plates for two P1,300.
3
Pink
Panda.
Beni’s
Falafel.
from his mouth. Bel-Air
Soho Bldg., Polaris Street
corner Badajos Street,
Bel-Air; lecafecurieux.com;
Pastis for two P170.
Kish
A haven for the beautiful
and luxe, curated by
globally acclaimed designer
Ito Kish. There’s furniture
including the awardwinning Gregoria chair of
his own design, modern
Kiwi sky planters, and
brass table accessories from
India. 233 Nicanor Garcia
St., Bel-Air; kish.ph.
A Latino sub-culture—
first started by the TexMex and margarita joint
Chihuahua
(chihuahuamexgrill.com;
chihuaritas for two
P390)—is spicing up the
town with lively new
additions. Head to
El
Chupacabra (5782
Felipe St., Bel-Air; 63-2/
895-1919; fb.com/el
chupacabra; meal for
two P280) for some
street tacos and cheap
beer. Pop over to
Señor Pollo (5767 Ebro
St., Poblacion; 63-2/8316945; fb.com/senorpollo
ph; meal for two P370) to
wipe out a plate of roast
chicken with
chimichurri, spicy rice
and Latin American
slaw. End your night
with tequila shots from
A’Toda Madre’s (63998/999-1521;
atodamadre.com.ph;
shots for two P500) vast
collection of añejos and
reposados before
zigzagging your way to
Chihuahua, where it all
began, for their famous
chihuaritas and Salsa
Project Saturday party.
A Toda Madre
Heima
This “Live happy, beyond
ordinary” lifestyle and
design store embraces all
things cheery. LRI Design
Plaza, 210 Nicanor Garcia,
Bel-Air II; heimastore.com.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / D EC E M B E R 2 0 1 5
7
Cebu by the Sea
Filipino furniture designer KENNETH
COBONPUE has made a name for
himself through his use of local
materials and traditional techniques.
STAY The Henry Hotel (thehenryhotel.com;
doubles from P4,200) in Banilad is a hip, quirky
boutique. I recommend it to friends because it’s
walking distance from The Spa at Cebu
(thespacebu.com) and some of the city’s best
restaurants, including their own—Rica’s.
Abacá Boutique Resort (abacaresort.com;
doubles from P15,900) in Mactan nearby is still
the best beach hotel.
EAT + DRINK Just opened is the Abacá Baking
Company (theabacagroup.com; coffee and
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: Kenneth
Cobonpue, striking a
pose between
winning design
awards; hitting a
sweet spot at The
Tinder Box; all sorts
of gluteny goodness
at Abacá Baking
Company; The Henry
Hotel’s funky rooms;
up close and
personal with whale
sharks; The Man
Holding Driftwood by
Orley Ypon at Qube.
pastries P320) with great fresh pastries.
Kanyoen (GF Castle Peak Hotel, F. Cabahug
Street, Mabolo, Cebu City; 63-32/232-2989; lunch
for two P500) in Mabolo has the best yakiniku in
the city. Although I’m not much of a lechón fan,
one can’t go to Cebu and miss out on the
crisp-skinned porker: Rico’s Lechón (ricoslechon.com; whole roasted pigs from P3,200) and
Zubuchon (zubuchon.com; half-kilo from P300)
are my recommendations. + For a glass of wine,
head to Z Bar (drinks for two P500), which I
designed seven years ago, on the mezzanine of
newly renovated, local-favorite The Tinder Box
(Archbishop Reyes Avenue corner Bauhinia
Drive, Banilad, Cebu City; 63-32/234-1681;
dinner for two P2,000).
BUY A few small and independent companies
make beautiful things, use indigenous crafts,
and champion social causes at the same time.
Among them is Anthill Fabric Gallery
(anthillfabricgallery.com), which sells artistic
fabrics and accessories. + Check out Qube
Gallery (qubegallery.ph) for local art and the
Carbon Market (M.C. Briones Street, Cebu City)
for indigenous baskets and handicrafts.
SEE + DO A four-hour hike at Canso X (510 Brgy.
Cansomoroy, Balamban; 63-32/411-1600; hiking
P200 per person, entrance P50 per person), which
is an hour-long drive from the city, refreshes
you with spectacular views of the hills and
surrounding islands. + A banca cruise with
Islands Banca (islandsbanca.com; island
hopping for 10 from P6,500) is a must. Another
favorite is whale watching, a few hours away at
Oslob where you can get up close with whale
sharks. However, the best part about Cebu is
still its proximity to great beaches in nearby
Bohol, Malapascua and Bantayan.
— STEPHANIE ZUBIRI
8 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F K E N N E T H C O B O N P U E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E T I N D E R B O X ; C O U R T E S Y O F A B A C Á B A K I N G C O M PA N Y; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E H E N R Y H O T E L ; K R I S T O F F E R L A R S E N ; C O U R T E S Y O F Q U B E G A L L E R Y
MY TOWN
Ticao Boys
A low-key island in the Philippines,
Ticao packs loads of adventure between South
Luzon and Masbate. BY MARCO FERR ARESE .
PHOTOS BY KIT YENG CHAN
Loading up the
banca for a day
of fishing.
10 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Stilted houses are
built to withstand
the tides.
Balancing
on the beach.
IMAGINE COWBOY HATS, LEATHER
lassos, bucking broncos. Now set that
scene on a powder-white beach in the
Philippines. It may seem a strange pairing,
but that’s the outlook at Ticao island.
This brushstroke of emerald thickets
and white sand is ringed by intense open
blue. It’s one of Masbate Province’s three
off-the-beaten path islands floating
between the more famous shores of
southern Luzon and Cebu. You’ll find
snorkeling and diving here, but the region is
most famous for the Rodeo Masbateño
held every April.
Besides cowpokes and cattle, Ticao
Pass’s constant currents and plankton-rich
waters lure manta rays, and hammerhead,
thresher and whale sharks. The island’s
only claim to tourism fame is the Manta
Bowl, an underwater atoll offering five
different dive sites ranging up to 29 meters
deep. Divers flock here on boat trips from
Donsol, 90 minutes north across the pass
in Sorsogon Province, Luzon, while
between November and June, touristsladen bumboats rock by in search of whale
sharks. Visitors, however, rarely stay on to
explore. A pity because, apart from the dive
sites, the rest of Ticao’s coast is still
virtually untouched. Shores dotted by local
fishing communities and a jungle-clad,
waterfall-sprinkled interior are the perfect
springboards for adventure seekers. Ticao
Island Resort’s (ticao-island-resort.com;
beachfront cabanas including all meals
from P5,200 for two)
romantic beach cabanas
are the ideal setting to
overnight under a carpet
of blazing stars, keeping
toes constantly tucked in
the sand, without
sacrificing comfort. The
resort also offers an
Tour Rock
onsite SSI-accredited
Island’s waters
dive center and free
on a banca.
kayaks to paddle out at
sea and explore.
Ocean aside, there’s
much more to discover on Ticao if you’re
willing to follow the rhythms of nature. We
rise before the first rays paint the horizon
purple to take a stroll on the beach and
watch how the sea powers the ebb and
flow of local life. It’s easy enough to
convince a group of young, energetic
fishermen to let us charter their banca,
which balances over waves using four
curvy outstretched poles. They welcome
us on board, but business comes first: we
agree to wait quietly as they complete their
morning fishing outing to the southern tip
of the island. The banca glides over the
turquoise ocean like a spider crawling on
glass until we moor at the tiny village of
Gibraltar to unload the morning’s catch.
The beach has turned into a lively earlymorning market where everybody, children
included, smiles and sings as they go about
their daily fishing chores. As soon as the
catch has been sold, one of our guides
turns to us, ready to make good on his
promise.
“I’ll show you Rock Island,” he says as
we gain speed over gentle waves. Originally
called Minalayo, this tiny atoll across from
Ticao’s southernmost tips emerges like a
stony forehead topped with green,
unkempt hair. Our boat glides into the
fresh, shady embrace of the island’s caves.
“Look out for snakes before jumping in,”
our de facto guide warns us. It was here
that famous Filipino TV host Dr. Nielsen
Donato spotted yellow-lipped sea kraits,
one of the most poisonous sea snakes in
the world. We look around, scanning for
scales, but it is all clear, so very clear.
Standing in the rocking banca, the water is
so crystalline the coral underneath looks
sealed under a plasma screen. We bite on
our snorkels and dive into high definition.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / D EC E M B E R 2 0 1 5
11
Filipino Flair
Designer Anne Marie Saguil has turned
her passion project, Amarie, into a
leading Filipino brand with global
recognition. From traditional local
menswear to Jacqueline Onassis, here
are her inspirations.
↑ JACKIE O CHIC
The iconic American First Lady was the muse for
Saguil’s Amarie Spring/Summer 2015 collection
(annemariesaguil.com). “I’ve been infatuated with
the classic sophistication of black-and-white of
late. I imagine Jackie O donning this quiet but
strong color combination while sauntering the
seafronts of Greece.”
↑ BARONG TAGALOG
Anne Marie’s parents used to own
handicraft stores in the leading hotels
of Manila, which seeded the idea to use
the traditional Filipino men’s dress shirt,
the barong Tagalog, as the base for her
designs. “Growing up I was always drawn
to the artistic skills and beauty that I saw
in the embroidery of the barong Tagalog,
and felt that we should be seeing more of
this artistry in our everyday wear.”
REV UP THE RETRO →
“The designs I used this season were heavy on
bold flowers and graphic half circles, weaving
in a lot of A-line silhouettes and embroidering
these graphic shapes with bright contrasting
colors to evoke a retro vibe.”
12 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
↑ SUNSETS BY THE SEA
“Corals, melons and oranges make me think of
sunshine and vibrant sunsets. And in any
warm-weather situation, one always looks for
something to cool the senses, which is why I
also gravitate towards mint greens, lavenders
and ocean blues.” — STEPHANIE ZUBIRI
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F A N N E M A R I E S A G U I L ( 2 ) ; © C O R B I S ; © E L E N A F R O L O VA / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F A N N E M A R I E S A G U I L ; © J M A E N T Z / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M
SPOTLIGHT
← PINS AND NEEDLES
“I admire the stay-at-home
mothers who skillfully
embroider all the clothes
that we come out with each
season. I hope the income
they earn from us gives them
the incentive and desire to
pass on these traditional
skills to their children, while
they continue to earn a
living in remote areas of the
country without having to
leave their families to create
better futures for them.”
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DETOUR
Mystical Maligcong
Hidden beyond the Philippine Cordilleras’ main route, this small town,
with its distinct stone-wall rice terraces, has an unimagined beauty few
travelers get to see. BY MARCO FERR ARESE. PHOTOGR APHED BY KIT YENG CHAN
MALIGCONG’S AMPHITHEATER of
stone-wall rice terraces is one of the
Cordilleras’ unsung insider secrets.
The journey there, a hair-raising
30-minute uphill ride from Bontoc’s
bustling market in a packed-to-thegills jeepney (five departures per day;
P20), weeds out the faint hearted, but
the pay-off is worth every bump in
the road. Panoramas of rice steppes
carved into rolling hills extend as far
as the eye can see. It looks like a
playhouse for giants, with ricecarpeted staircases zigzagging in
every direction. This unesco World
14 Heritage site is the sole example of
pre-colonial stone construction in
the country, but few outsiders have
trod these fields.
You can do Maligcong as a halfday trip from Bontoc but, with
surrounds this stunning, it is worth
putting down your bags and staying
a while. Suzette’s Maligcong
Homestay (63- 91/5546-3557; fb.com/
maligconghomestay; doubles
including dinner P1,000) is an
intimate lodge with three rooms,
each with rustic wooden fittings and
a spacious veranda overlooking the
DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
valley. You couldn’t hope for a more
gracious host than Ate Suzette, and
her home-cooked pork adobo will
warm your belly and your soul
through Maligcong’s chilly nights.
Suzette can arrange guided walks
to the terraces and hikes to the hot
spring in the nearby village of
Mainit, but you can also just strike
off by yourself on perambulatory
excursions. Following Suzette’s
advice, we hike to Maligcong’s
primary school, a cluster of wooden
houses dominating the valley from
the top of the highest hill. As we
ABOVE: The jeepney ride from Bontoc market to Maligcong is an intensely local
experience. OPPOSITE: Maligcong is the only spot in the Philippines where you’ll find
these picturesque stone-wall rice terraces.
Travel & Leisure.pdf 1 11/4/2015 7:38:38 PM
STAY
RELAXED.
leave the village limits along the
snaking stone path, we stumble
upon a group of shy school kids on
their way back home. We all walk in
single file past local farmers working
knee-deep in muddy water tending
to the paddies. I bask in the slice-oflife moment, and tell myself that this
is what travel is all about. As we
trudge along the ridge to the top, the
afternoon sun starts a shimmering
light show in the hundreds-strong
patchwork of pools below us. I’m
dumbstruck by the beauty of this
ever-changing, three-dimensional
checkerboard. Suzette had told us,
“Even though I’ve lived here most of
my life, it’s hard to get tired of
Maligcong. It looks like a different
place in every season.” Taking in the
vastness of the view, I know exactly
what Suzette means. I try to imagine
what the stairs of the Gods will look
like during my next visit.
Being on holiday doesn’t have
to mean being idle.
Stay at the Holiday Inn & Suites
Makati and enjoy the advantage
of being in the heart of Makati
City. Soak up the sun at the
outdoor swimming pool, indulge
in our different food & beverage
offers, or escape to a day of
shopping at Glorietta Shopping
Mall which is directly connected
to the hotel.
Holiday Inn & Suites Makati
Glorietta 1 Palm Drive
Ayala Center, Makati City
1224 Philippines
To book, call+63 2 9090888
or visit holidayinn.com/makati
Terms and conditions apply. See website for details.
©2015 IHG. All rights reserved. Most hotels are
independently owned and operated.
STAY YOU.™
holidayinn.com
The Next Pride of Palawan
One Philippine beach town is toeing the green line before
tossing up tourist-filled resorts. JENINNE LEE-ST. JOHN
lives to tell the tale of why you should visit sustainable
San Vicente—just not too many of you, please.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY RICHARD MARKS
16 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Just one of San
Vicente’s undeveloped
shorelines.
OPPOSITE: Parking,
Exotic Island-style.
“Are you sure
you want us to take
the door off the
plane, mam?”
Marissa, the mayor’s assistant, asked me after our truck
had skidded onto the airstrip and discharged us directly
under the wing of a six-seater Cessna surrounded by no
fewer than a dozen downright jovial people waiting
partly to help but mostly to watch us take flight.
Uh, definitely. In fact, there’s no way we’re getting in
that plane unless the door is off. We want to stick our
heads out over the ocean. We require a doorless Cessna.
Out came the power tools and off came the door. Being
able to risk your life with such easy abandon is one of the
thrills of charting the lesser-visited reaches of the WildWild-West Philippines, but it’s also a perk of being an
official guest of a mayor eager for you to properly see all
the unspoiled paradisiacal potential her town could
unlock if only the right eco-minded developers snapped
up the keys. Palawan Island is probably on your go-to list
(if you haven’t been there already), but I doubt you’ve
heard of San Vicente, San Vic to locals and the initiated—
and that’s partly because the mayor hasn’t wanted you to.
If that sounds counterintuitive, I should explain that
this mayor, savvy and super green, is one Maria Carmela
“Pie” Alvarez, who in 2010 became the youngest person
ever elected to that post in the Philippines, at 21, while
wrapping up her bachelor’s in international business
administration with concentrations in environmental
FROM LEFT: Said the plane to the longtail
boat, let's race!; spearfishing net profits, on
Exotic Island; northwestern Palawan by
plane; hamming it up on Long Beach.
technology and global marketing management at Babson
College across the globe in Boston. After graduation, she
took over a municipality that, despite sitting between
Palawan’s capital, Puerto Princesa, and the resort-filled
karsts of El Nido, was and remains almost entirely
undeveloped—only 10,000 tourists visited in 2014. See,
no one wants it to become another Boracay. Rather, Pie’s
got a master plan for a self-sustaining, eco-friendly
beach haven that will maximize San Vic’s hit list: the
country’s longest continuous stretch of seashore (the 14.7
kilometer aptly named Long Beach); 22 lovely outlying
islands and their marine sanctuaries teeming with
dolphins, dugongs and turtles; butterfly, bird and bat
refuges; plus waterfalls, mangroves and the Puerto
Princesa Underground River, a unesco World Heritage
Site and one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature.
We launched our San Vicente immersion one sunny
morn in a speedboat from Pagdanan Bay on the northern
edge of a fishing village, zooming out towards Exotic
Island. Any lethargic muddleheadedness I’d had due to
the early hour was zapped on the approach by the sheer,
shiny beauty of the place. The crisp waters overlapped in
maybe 37 jewel-toned hues between one rocky, forested
isle and our destination, Exotic, with a white-sand bib to
18 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
which the anchors of a handful of rainbow-colored
paraws were tethered like charms on a necklace. We
puttered up on a sandbar and I needed a moment before I
could disembark. I realized that I had wanted to be in
this exact spot my entire life and had never known it.
A childlike expedition of the island saw us clambering
over striped shale and zigzagged rocks. Some guys were
spearfishing in the coral with one hand-hewn spike; our
intrepid photographer, Richard, grabbed a mask and
swam out to join them. I splashed around with two little
girls among the outriggers and then bathed in the sun
until our captain rustled us to depart for the next stop.
I was sad, but for naught. Because the next stop was
even better. German Island. A perfect promontory of
sand, ringed by coral and topped by a little gazebo, a big
grill and woven palm hammocks strung between the tree
trunks, four in a row. In the sun it’s hot and bright, in the
shade it’s cool and breezy, and how the place manages a
natural 10-degree temperature swing is beyond me. As
we pulled in, captain pointed out a sea turtle chilling in
the water; while on land, we played with the cleanest
beach puppies you’ll ever have the pleasure to cuddle.
Our third isle of this hop was called Paradise—a bit of a
stretch as it is just a wee patch of sand dripping off a hill
of rocks, but I was glad we’d gone there last because it
made it slightly easier to head back to the mainland.
As did the allure of that doorless Cessna. Richard
conferred with the pilot about the ideal seat so as to get
the best shots but also not to die. That the plane needs a
shockingly brief taxi is good news, since the runway, now
1.4 kilometers, is still only half built. Then we were up in
the sky, circling south over the three islets we had
cruised to and fro all day. Wind whipping and wailing
through the cabin, it was straight up the coastline of
Long Beach, and my mind’s eye could picture the swirls
of beach umbrellas that one day will stagger up its shore.
Besides that, there was little need for imagination,
because the water proved so clear from even that height
that we could see the sea grass fluttering below its
surface. (Richard could probably see it more clearly, what
with his camera and entire torso hanging out of the
plane.) Soon we were over El Nido’s famous emeraldflecked towers, watching figurine-sized resort guests
take their last dips of the day. By this point the melting
sun was casting everything in a shimmering silver.
Pie, we uncovered your buried treasure.
A
LONE MOTORBIKE, ridden by a couple,
drove by against a horizon intruded on
from the right by a mountain, the
melting sun reflecting on the receding
shoreline. Under cover of the violet and
magenta sky, a family emerged from the
brush of Long Beach. Mom, dad, grandma, five boys and
a little girl. They were going to fish and we were going to
follow. The light was perfect, the mom was friendly and
the boys were hams. The fishing net was tied to two
stakes. Dad took one stake thigh-deep out into the ocean,
placed the end in the sand, and dragged it forward, while
one of his sons holding the other stake at shore followed
along, near-parallel. Every 30 meters or so, the dad
would loop back in and they’d gather the net on the sand
to see what they’d snagged. The first catch yielded six
fish, the next three, fewer or none. I was glad when the
mom told me the family does this for quality time, not for
survival—though, yes, they were going to eat those fish.
Still, in this municipality of 30,000, nearly half fish for
a living. Regulating sustainable fishing has been a
challenge, as has flood-proofing: new rules call for
setting every structure at least 50 meters back from the
high-water line (in a town this quiet, you can still hear
the rolling of the ocean from three times as far away) and
elevating all living quarters above the ground floor. The
master plan, conceived with green-geared architecture
and urban planning firm Palafox, also zones to ensure
that indigenous heritage is protected, pedestrians and
bikers have space to roam, and new homes and resorts
are as sustainable and as solar- and wind-powered as
possible. “I try to emulate the best of where I’ve been,”
says idealist Pie, “and mix them together.”
One of those places is right in her backyard—Boayan
Island, a 20-minute speedboat ride off the coast of San
Vic. Robinson Crusoe is an overplayed trope in travel
writing, but Ditchay Roxas and her husband Philippe
Girardeau really have lived that dream here. In 1989,
they built stilted, wooden living quarters and a kitchen,
connected by boardwalks, under cover of a clutch of
trees, between two hills on a patch of land whose
backside extends to a rocky black beach pounded by the
rough waves of the open ocean and whose expansive
front deck faces a long, parabolic cove, all powdery white
sands and crystalline waters, obviously.
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FROM LEFT: Prepping lunch on
German Island; daylight’s long
goodbye over Long Beach; German
Island’s palm-draped perfection.
Beyond preserving 11 hectares of brushland and
virgin forest for wildlife including eagles, orioles, giant
monitor lizards, scrub fowl and monkeys, the couple,
who raised their daughter here full time for more than a
decade from 1996, have worked with the developer who
now owns the rights to the island to regenerate the oncebountiful coral in the bay that was lost to dynamite
fishing. One tactic: planting vetiver roots, which grow
down three meters, clean the soil and filter the water. A
snorkel into the aquatic garden, guided by one of the local
free-divers who help tend it, reveals a maze of new hard
and soft coral plantings to which fish of all breeds have
been returning. Turning Boayan into a marine reserve
has been a boon to the environment and the economy.
Over a multicourse lunch prepared by Ditchay that
includes stuffed fish tenderly steamed in coconut milk,
Philippe explains that fish who flock to and breed in a
safe haven create spillover outside of it, enabling locals to
“fish the interest, not the capital investment.” Anyway, it
hasn’t gone unnoticed to Pie and her San Vic boosters
that a pristine, blooming, coral dive site is tourism gold.
I
N FACT, these environs are chockablock with
appealing dive sites, to which Richard is lured
serendipitously when we happen upon a dive
master from the Puerto Princesa-based
Aquaholics. Our crew takes me, in the
meantime, for a snorkel on a vast reef near Port
Barton, the most commercial sector of San Vic, and then
we cruise over to a village on an island so the guys can
buy fish (“it’s cheaper than on the mainland”) while I buy
our plane tickets for a domestic flight later in the week.
Even as I type this, I realize how ridiculous it sounds, all
20 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
the more for its seeming normalcy. Purchase flights
online via phone while on a boat in the middle of the
ocean in the Philippines. When I first started traveling,
in Europe, in a much more basic variation of this seat-ofthe-pants way nearly two decades ago, I never possibly
could have conceived of any part of this situation. But
here I was, bobbing in the middle of a glaring
juxtaposition, grateful to have cell tower coverage while
praying that no one else would come to take advantage of
it and turn this nowheresville into somewhere.
Back to German Island, which is blissfully empty at
this hour. The crew and I have the island to ourselves for
a spell and I pretend like it’s ours forever; they cleave the
fish and prep lunch while I claim one of those gorgeous
hammocks that were calling out to me the other day, bask
in just the right ray of sun peeking through the palm
canopy, and open my book for the first time in four days.
And then Richard is back and his eyes are shining bright.
It seems on three dives he’s explored the Alburgen wreck,
a merchant vessel that sunk 26 meters 23 years ago, and
seen a slew of baby barracuda, cleaner shrimp, lionfish,
parrot fish, humpback grouper and oddly colored clown
fish—oh, and four sea turtles. There’s a fourth dive site
nearby, but he’s satisfied. “Each of those dives was better
than any I’ve ever done in Thailand,” he grins. After a
huge lunch, I too want to swim with a turtle.
Having seen several out in this channel (there’s
another rocky island some 250 meters across the water),
the photographer leads the way. After a bit, he turns back
hey, where’d you come from?” says one of the Germans,
laughing, as an American jokes, “We saw you out there
when we sailed in but thought you were a sea turtle.”
The boat, which these guys had hired at Port Barton,
delivers me back to German Island, following in the wake
of its captain, who, merman that he is, actually can swim
through this powerful tide. En route, I see Richard on
shore signaling me the thumbs up. Yeah, thanks, buddy.
Now I’m all good.
Well, I can’t be too mad. I am the one who said one of
the thrills of off-the-map adventures is the implicit
permission to risk your life. But thank goodness this
random boat was here at the right moment to save it—in
a palpable twist of responsible tourism. “Protecting the
environment doesn’t mean you cannot go,” Philippe had
told us. No, it just means finding the right balance
between nowheresville and somewhere.
towards German Island—maybe to fix his mask in
shallower ground? I’m not sure but I think he’s coming
back but then he isn’t and all of a sudden I’m too far from
home and the current is too strong and I’m trying to
adjust my mask and the snorkel breaks off. Great. I’m
treading water aggressively against the unyielding tide,
which is killing my sprained knee, trying not to swallow
all of the seawater in the world while taking a clear
assessment of my situation. I can’t see a soul on German
Island, so trying to call for help would only waste energy.
I definitely cannot swim back. (I should’ve swum back
before!) OK. I probably can make it to that other island. It
doesn’t have a beach, but the current will just wash me
up on the rocks. I can cling to rocks and not drown and
wait to get picked up. Do not panic. You panic, you drown.
Attempting to right my mask once more, I dive down…
And come face to face with a grown sea turtle.
It’s an eerily beautiful moment of tranquility, each of
us gently flapping our limbs in what is admittedly
gorgeous, clear, if imminently deadly, water. Well, hey,
mission accomplished: I came out here to see a big-ass
turtle and I have so I guess I can die now.
But, when I surface, a boat has appeared. I nearly
drown in my sigh of relief. It’s about 30 meters away but
the captain has already dived into the water and is fastapproaching. Salvation. “There’s a turtle! Right here!” I
gasp. “Also... Drowning. Mask broke. I’m swimming to
your boat, OK?” I take off doggy-paddling before he can
answer. Scrambling aboard, I encounter a confused mate
and then, as they climb back in back from their leisurely,
non-death-defying snorkel, four chill passengers. “Oh,
THE DETAILS
GETTING THERE
Until the San Vicente airport is
completed, you’ll have to fly into
Puerto Princesa from Manila, via
AirAsia Zest (airasia.com), Cebu
Pacific (cebupacificair.com) or
Philippine Airlines (philippine
airlines.com), and hire a car—or
book a ride with your hotel—for
the three-hour drive to San Vic.
HOTEL
This region really is untouched.
The loads of lovely resorts up
north in El Nido are about an
hour’s drive or boat ride away; the
best bet in San Vicente is:
Secret Paradise Resort &
Turtle Sanctuary Six bungalows
and two rooms run by a couple
who cook your meals and actively
preserve the four beaches their
property spans. Turtle Bay, Sitio
Barongbong, Port Barton; 63999/880-2480; secretparadise
resort.com; doubles from P4,450.
DIVING
Aquaholics Daytrip dive
excursions and SSI certification
classes. Unit 4, Alimar Building,
Rizal Avenue Extension, Bancao
Bancao, Puerto Princesa City;
63-919/991-6282; divepalawan.
net; contact martyjohncollins@
gmail.com for prices.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / D EC E M B E R 2 0 1 5
21
They don’t call the Philippines an archipelago for nothing.
There are way more stunning, secluded islands, coves and beaches
than we’ve had time to overdevelop. Thank goodness.
So, peruse this list of our favorite slices of personal paradises, then put in for
those vacation days. Privacy and time—the ultimate luxuries.
BY STEPHANIE ZUBIRI PHOTOGR APHED BY FR ANCISCO GUERRERO
22 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
M O D E L : L U I S A B E LT R A N . S T Y L I S T: G U A D A R E Y E S . M A K E U P : R E N E N B A U T I S TA
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Trotting along Balesin
Village beach. On
Luisa: Bhig Buda
Outfitters bikini, Two
Chic Manila shorts.
OPPOSITE: Cone of
silence at Dedon
Island, Siargao.
FROM TOP: At Mykonos
Village, on Luisa: Nimo
With Love dress, Hat
Attack clutch, Jack
Rogers sandals;
aromatic rice in Phuket
Village; the clear blue
beyond. OPPOSITE: In
a Royal Villa, on Luisa:
Nimo With Love
kaftan, Linya Disenyo
earrings, Bhig Buda
Outfitters sunglasses.
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Bales
They say no man is an island, but I’d
hazard a guess that every one wants
one. In a country like the
Philippines, where you have 7,107 to
choose from, it isn’t that difficult to
find one that is actually for sale. But
while retail prices can be in fact
quite reasonable, the extra financial
as well as logistical tolls add up. Is
there fresh water? What about
electricity? Sort those issues out, but
then every rainy season you’re
worried a giant typhoon will sweep
in and blow all your effort and
affection to smithereens.
Enter Balesin, a unique, private
island resort that is incredibly
accessible. The 25-minute flight on a
private plane leaving from a private
hangar smack in the center of
Manila means it’s quicker to get to
the island than to drive an hour
south of the capital to popular
weekend destination Tagaytay. A
friend of mine who owns a
membership explained to me that it
was like having maintenance-free
beach houses in Bali, Costa del Sol,
Mykonos, Phuket, St-Tropez and
Tuscany. That’s right: it’s a seaside
Epcot Center of sorts for adults (far
less cheesy than it sounds!) with only
300 villas and two-bedroom suites
grouped into international villages
on 500 wondrous hectares. The
privilege of privacy—honestly, I’ve
been kicking myself for not getting
in on the ground floor ever since my
first visit.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / D EC E M B E R 2 0 1 5
25
That day, it felt like I barely got
settled into my seat, comfortable
with my headphones and magazine,
when the captain announced that we
were about to land. A tropical
welcome awaited us upon touchdown
with its customary flower necklaces
and fresh coconut juice. Buggies lined
up to give tours around the world.
Yes, as strange and mainland
China as it may seem, the villages
are less theme-park reproductions
and more inspired development.
Absolutely no detail was overlooked
and not one tree was out of place. Or,
on Mykonos, in place, for that whole
village is void of tropical coconut
trees. There, the signature Greek
white and blue structures are
surrounded by large rocks and
stunning bougainvillea perched on a
small cliff overlooking the vast
expanse of ocean. Over on Costa del
Sol, instead of overgrown balmy
vegetation there is the slightly arid
landscape punctured by tiled
fountains reminiscent of southern
Spain. And, the shady, tree-lined
beaches at Phuket, with its ornately
decorated wooden villas, are perfect
for a relaxing, dreamy escape. Each
village comes not just with the
ambience of its inspiration but with
a corresponding restaurant. Moules
frites at St-Tropez? Spaghetti alle
vongole and wood-fire oven pizzas at
Toscana? Sundowners and satay at
Bali? That probably sums up the
bulk of my intended itinerary here…
My holiday was planned around
mealtimes and cocktail hours—and
while I was nibbling on a tasty
skewer during the first of what was
to become many happy hour sessions
at the beautiful Nusa Dua bar
overlooking the fuchsia sea, I had a
moment of clarity: The diversity of
food and drink was just one signal of
the breadth of options on the island
designed to maximize repeat
visitors’ investments and minimize
any inkling of ennui.
The choices are in fact quite
dizzying: You can go horseback
riding on the beach, indulge in the
spa, dive, fish for your own meal,
karaoke. Heck, you can even let out
your inner Legolas and try your
hand at archery. Still, I sincerely am
more than happy just reading a
book, swinging in a hammock,
26 enjoying the salty breeze, because
the truth is that the most powerful
selling point of Balesin is the
stunning natural setting.
Only one-tenth of the island is
developed, planned as it was with
sustainability and respect for nature
in mind. One has to drive a good 20
minutes, winding through
untouched forests and untrimmed
flora, to get from one village to
another. Adventurous spirits might
DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
pack a picnic lunch and, towel and
hat in hand, disappear to a secluded
cove. There are more than seven
kilometers of white-sand beachfront,
so it’s no sweat to find a few square
meters to call your own. The
development was so well considered
that despite the extremely high
occupancy one Valentine’s weekend,
we often found ourselves dining
alone in restaurants, only bumping
into people Sunday afternoon in the
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hangar on our way home. “Oh, I didn’t
know you were here too!” is a common
exclamation at the end of a holiday.
As our initial tour came to a close,
the friendly guide asked if we’d like
to see her favorite place, and took us
to the southernmost tip of the island.
The buggy climbed up the hill and
the island narrowed to a point where
on one side stood the Pacific and on
the other Lamon Bay. We were
waved in by the watchman, who had
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE:
Balesin Island has a
team of resident wood
carvers who create
decorative items and
furniture; chill in
beanbags at the Balesin
Village Clubhouse; at the
Balesin Village
beachfront, on Luisa:
Two Chic Manila blouse
and pants; at the spa, on
Luisa: Dusk Resortwear
cover-up,H&M bikini;
sun-kissed dining in
St-Tropez; private
transport for the jet set.
a big toothy grin. The mid-afternoon
sun warmed our skin, long unkempt
grass danced in the ocean wind,
softly framing the small, charmingly
beat-up guardhouse. A rickety
bamboo hut with equally rickety
benches stood glowing against the
light and sparkling water. “I love
coming here and just staring out to
sea,” our guide said. “In the early
morning, you can watch the sunrise
and there are often turtles that come
up to the surface. Then you can come
back later in the day and enjoy an
unobstructed view of the sunset.”
She sighed and so did I. Lucky
watchman, I thought to myself. He
had the best spot on the island… and
didn’t have to pay a cent.
Balesin Island Club; 63-2/846-6205;
balesin.com; contact the resort for a
preview visit, membership fees and
accommodation rates.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / D EC E M B E R 2 0 1 5
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:
All-inclusive water sports; each of
the eight rooms boasts
uninterrupted westerly seascapes;
hand-carved marble baths from
Romblon; luxe lounging.
CA
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This is the luxe life. The brainchild
of a British couple who say they live
for exotic adventures without the
restrictive and confining feel of resorts
and hotels, Ariara is an all-or-nothing
private island with the requisite
dense emerald jungles, turquoise
waters and white sands. The ultimate
indulgence here? Whether you want
a romantic escape for two or a
raucous beach party with 18 friends,
the eight villas, cottages and suites
are book one, get them all. That goes
not just for the contemporary tropical,
artisan-highlighted accommodations,
in which you can hop into large
hand-carved marble baths from
Romblon, duck under thatched roofs
made out of nipa fibers, and wrap
28 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
N
yourself in textiles from tribal weavers.
It also applies to the bounty of big-kid
toys at your disposal. Jetskiing in the
late afternoon? Discovering deserted
islands on the 30-meter trimaran?
Taking the 12-meter dive boat out to
explore coral reefs and World War II?
From spa treatments to yoga to
curating each vintage from the wine
cellar to your personal preference—
and the menu of the private chef—
every desire is met, surpassed, often
even anticipated, by the friendly and
efficient staff.
Ariaraisland.com; seven-night stays
from US$40,040 for groups of six to
eight people, to US$59,850 for groups
of 15-18 people.
C O U R T E S Y O F A R I A R A I S L A N D (4 )
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Does it count as “private” if you’re
surrounded by simians? Well, if it
comes with your own cave-waterfall
shower, we say, definitely. Sangat
Island is a pristine nature reserve
owned by British-climate refugee
Andy Pownall, but the true rulers of
this roost are the mischievous
monkeys that scamper freely about—
and among the exotic birds such as
the Palawan hornbill and endangered
Tabon who live in the magnificent
jungle overlooking the small strip of
ivory sand dotted with large conch
shells. Lambingan Villa is accessible
only via a rickety bridge that snakes
through jagged rocks and into a cave
before thrusting you out onto its
secluded beach. The rustic, threestory villa is somewhat spartan and
has no air-conditioning, but it
harnesses nature to provide the
perks, from that waterfall shower to
the cool, ocean breeze. Take a kayak
and explore the island’s hidden
lagoons, jump into a school of
rainbow-colored fish or unwind in
the secret hot-spring pool. Simplicity
and freshness reign with tasty
(though, note, limited) offerings such
as a grilled catch of the day and
sautéed vegetables from the owners’
lovingly tended garden. Unplug and
melt into the island’s languid time.
Soon you’ll contemplate just burning
that bridge and staying tucked up
with the monkeys.
Sangat.com.ph; low-season doubles
from US$155 per person per night,
including three buffet meals daily,
complimentary tea or coffee, and
airport transfers.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP : Pier to private paradise; nearby bountiful
reefs draw divers; history writ on the wall; fish, plus monkeys
and birds, are the nearest neighbors.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / D EC E M B E R 2 0 1 5
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CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: The
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30 DECEMBER 2015 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM
Planning a destination wedding,
family reunion or other intimate
celebration? Pearl Farm’s seven
Malipano Villas have you covered.
Perched on stilts and on the rocks of
the speck of land across the bay from
the main resort, these spacious
three-story, three- and fourbedroom villas were built in the
traditional Maranao and Samal
styles with bamboo accents and
picturesque pointed roofs meant to
look like the iconic native Philippine
hat, the salakot. With its own
beachfront and a large open-air
veranda, the spot is made for cocktail
parties and barbecues overlooking
the sea. Just dial up the main resort
for all your catering and concierge
needs: For entertainment, there are
the usual offerings of aqua sports,
but perhaps you’d like to sprinkle in
a dose of culture with a guided field
trip to the weaving center where
women from the Mandaya tribe work
on lavish hand woven textiles and
artisanal housewares. Back home for
happy hour, be sure to order their
succulent morsels of fresh tuna
kinilaw—a local version of ceviche
made with fresh green chilies, ginger
and coconut milk—the heat
tempered by frosty San Miguel beers.
Whatever you fancy, take over this
cluster of cottages and rule it like a
festive tribe.
Pearlfarmresort.com; three-bedroom
villas for up to six people from P40,941
per night, four-bedroom villas for up to
seven people from P44,398 per night.
C O U R T E S Y O F P E A R L FA R M R E S O R T (4 )
Malipano Villas are sheltered
by salakot-shaped roofs; pool
party, anyone?; room with
a view; stilted glory.
CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Your sand castle-away-from-home; Siargao
is a surfing mecca; pick your own organic veggies and tell the chef
how to prep your salads; beachy bounce houses.
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Call it the kingmaker. Nestled in
thick mangroves and among flying
lemurs and monitor lizards on
surfers’ paradise Siargao, the
whimsical architectural gem that is
Dedon Island is designed to be your
personal sand castle-away-fromhome. Okay, so technically there are
nine vaulted-ceilinged, playful
niche-filled, luxury villas here, but
at this self-described “outdoor living
lab” on four hectares, in which the
coconut-leaf roofs blend seamlessly
and sustainably with the emerald
tree canopy, you’ll hardly notice—
and you definitely won’t hear—the
other barefoot guests. A flat rate per
person per night ensures ease akin
to residency; this island is your
oyster; your wish is its command.
Indulge in multiple massages per
day, bounce in the domed
trampolines, visit the local market…
boat rides and surf lessons and
picnics on deserted isles, and did we
mention so many cocktails at the
handwoven circular bar? Feel like
expanding the menu? Wander
through their organic garden and
pick your own vegetables, then pop
RGA
T E R N S IA
O
into the kitchen to have the chef
assist you in satisfying your craving.
At Dedon Island there are no checks
and no billing statements, just the
sheer joy of pure vacation abandon
without having to worry about
adding up costs upon departure…
That is if you can bear to give up
Poseidon’s trident and go back to
civilian life.
Dedon Island; dedonisland.com;
doubles from P25,100 per adult per
night, P12,550 for children under 18
years old, and free for kids under 10.
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