Northern Spain: Wallcreepers and Cranes in Aragón

The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
Northern Spain: Wallcreepers
and Cranes in Aragón
17-23 November 2013
Common Cranes in flight over the edge of the Laguna de Gallocanta, with Common Shelducks on the water and
the village of Gallocanta behind
© John L. Muddeman
Leader:
John Muddeman
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
Introduction
The onset of the biological winter in Europe of course sees some significant changes in the flora and
fauna. Among these is the chance to combine looking for that sprite of the southern mountains, the
gorgeous Wallcreeper, as well as experiencing the spectacle of massed Common Cranes at one of their
principal migration stop-over sites in N Spain. Add to this the chance of seeing the enigmatic
Dupont’s Lark, as well as looking for all these birds in some areas of very contrasting outstanding
natural beauty, as well as visiting various sites with cultural heritage, and it is clear why this has
become one of our most regular and long-standing tours! However, this year it was again looking like
climate change was going to was affect what we saw, with temperatures over 20ºC the week before
the tour, but then just before it started, a long spell of bad weather was forecast for the N of Spain...
Indeed, while we were there, some of the heaviest rainfall ever experienced in Spain was recorded in
Andalucía, where a shocking 440mm of rain fell in just 90 minutes on one town, and the high
Pyrenees of Aragón on the day we left Loarre were down to -15ºC without accounting for the strong
windchill factor! But the following is what we experienced:
Daily Diary
Sunday 17th
Barcelona airport – Alquézar – Loarre
Fairly still, occasional light rain earlier and late, en route; cloudy but bright and short sunny spell at
Alquézar.
We all met at the arrivals gate and after a comfort break and lunch buying in a small airport shop, we
were out to the minibus in good time. But then it transpired that one of the windscreen wipers wasn’t
working fully, requiring a seemingly inordinate wait for the hire car operator to look at it, only to
discover it wasn’t fixable... So in order to actually see something en route rather than changing vans,
moving luggage and redoing paperwork etc., we left as it was and started the long journey towards
Loarre.
The Llobregat River was an orange-coloured torrent after heavy rainfall for the last 2 days and it was
no surprise that a flock of Great Cormorants was out on a grassy shore rather than in it! A single
Little Egret, a few small groups of Western Cattle Egrets, plus Black-headed and a few Yellow-legged
Gulls were basic fare, but a good start as we sped along the motorways away from Barcelona.
The number of Eurasian Magpies and Common Woodpigeons increased as we headed inland, as did
the flocks of presumably Spotless Starlings, though of more note one town was overshadowed by
around a dozen wheeling Red Kites, and a single White Stork stood high up on its nest on a ‘high rise’
stork tower!
It was a full 2 ½ hours before we reached the stunning town of Alquézar perched above its gorges, but
there was still good light, helped by the sun breaking through shortly before sunset, and we marvelled
at the integrity of the architecture, where local stone has been used over the centuries helping it blend
into the landscape. Our first Common Chaffinches and Black Redstarts appeared, a superb male Hen
Harrier went low and fast through the ridge-top scrub and Blackcaps and European Robins scolded
from the cover of trees and scrub.
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
A few other birds were present including a single Rock Sparrow, and indeed we were looking at this
when Andreas calmly noted that he could see a Wallcreeper! All eyes and the scope turned to see this
crimson and white spangled beauty, before it flew across in front of us, hopped about on a rock face
peppered with small hollows for a few moments before it suddenly disappeared without trace! And
when it didn’t reappear we could only assume it had gone to roost. What a start!
A celebratory coffee was taken in a local bar before we embarked on the final part of journey and
even decanted into our rooms with a bit of time to spare for a drink at the bar before going for dinner.
Monday 18th
Castillo de Loarre – Riglos San Juan de la Peña
Breezy, chilly and cloudy start, followed by increasingly dry and warm weather, then cloud increasing
with strengthening cold N breeze towards evening.
Despite a close Red Kite on the way, up by the Loarre castillo was rather quiet, but as it was chilly
and breezy, this was no great surprise! Repeated views of a pair of Rock Buntings were excellent, and
other highlights were a briefly perched Merlin, two fly-over Common Crossbills and a noisy Crested
Tit which was finally seen briefly in flight.
With persistent light rain visible over the plains to the east and indeed slowly spreading from there,
contrary to earlier plans, we headed W to Riglos. Here it was also seemingly very quiet, but we
started with a look at and discussion about the resident flock of Rock Doves which had a few Feral
Pigeons thrown in. There was also a constant movement of Griffon Vultures, and a single passing
Peregrine was a good find. A good walk finally produced two close Alpine Accentors, fortunately
feeding low on the slopes and base of the towering rock pinnacles, with Andreas and Theo also seeing
a rather shy Blue Rock Thrush fly off ahead of us twice. Andreas and I then returned for scopes,
which we’d left on a track only to have a Wallcreeper fly over us, but another had also gone past
ahead of it and high over the group – who were unable to hear our shouts – and disappeared without
trace...
A good walk back across the scrubby slopes revealed a male Common Stonechat and another Rock
Bunting for the front-runners, plus a couple of calling Sardinian Warblers and Eurasian Wren.
Following a further fruitless wait for Wallcreeper we finally retreated and after a refreshing drink
headed N towards San Juan de la Peña. Unusually, a stop by a river bridge en route failed to reveal
White-throated Dipper as hoped, probably given the low water levels which would have revealed
ample feeding sites along the banks elsewhere, but we had a lovely relaxing lunch in the now warm
sun and a passing Eurasian Sparrowhawk, a Carrion Crow, a couple of White Wagtails and calling
Great and Blue Tits were of note.
Flushing a few Mistle Thrushes from the roadside en route we finally reached the top near the new
monastery, which is largely converted into a huge conference centre nowadays, and walked to the
Mirador del Pirineo. A large flock of Redwings were feeding on the abundant holly berries in the
surrounding forest, and the garble of their subdued songs suggested that they were quite content, with
further interest in the mixed flock which had formed around them including single Short-toed
Treecreeper and Eurasian Nuthatch, plus some unseen calling Eurasian Bullfinches. Noisy Coal and
Crested Tits were also present in the tops of the pines, giving occasional views.
The Mirador itself was great, with only a light cold wind blowing into our faces and although the
highest tops of the snow-capped Pyrenees were covered, a few gaps allowed occasional views of the
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
tremendous recent snowfalls. Views of numerous passing Griffon Vultures at all heights, mainly from
above were also made, despite a short interruption from school party who were being taught
principally about the geography and geology of the region.
We finally returned down on the alternative road with a stop to see the old monastery tucked under a
cliff, and noted a gorgeous young Red Squirrel foraging on the roadside as we went. We then stopped
again at a final viewpoint where a rather white-bodied Lammergeier drifted towards us along a cliff
face, spiralled up and then drifted off, with a pair of Peregrines high overhead also of note!
Tuesday 19th
Cuarte lake – Vadiello – Embalse de Sotonera
Windy and consequently noisy night, but relatively mild start Loarre. Very fine, becoming still and
warm in the lee of the mountains midday and then cooler and windy on the plains afternoon.
A short stop en route was taken for our first Corn Buntings, with a fly-by Rock Sparrow all too brief
and a single Red-billed Chough disappearing before we could get the scopes on it! A Cetti’s Warbler
along an adjacent stream was heard by Andreas just as we were getting back into the vehicles.
We detoured first to Cuarte Lake, where despite ongoing ‘improvement’ works, Water Pipits, a pair
Yellow-legged Gulls, a few Crested Larks a male Common Pochard and a few other water birds kept
us interested, though a stiff chilling wind was hard work. A Eurasian Reed Bunting called and flew
past as we left and 12 White Storks also flew past as we approached the vehicle. Some rough ground
nearby had attracted a mixed group of finches and other small birds including a few European Serins,
a brief Common Chiffchaff and a flighty Sardinian Warbler for David.
Our next stop was contrastingly different. Stopping on the flanks of the pre-Pyrenees, it was
remarkably warm and still in the lower valley as we headed towards Vadiello. A single Rock Dove and
lots of Griffon Vultures were noted, but little else, though a high flock of Eurasian Crag Martins was
finally located, though they all too quickly disappeared. Ascending the valley we flushed a
Wallcreeper from the roadside which then followed another for a short distance, and both were then
observed on the rocks above us for a couple of minutes before disappearing up much higher and ‘over
the top’ to some hidden ridgetop crags. Apart from more Griffons, which accompanied and
entertained us throughout our stay, it was also very quiet higher up, though eventually a Eurasian
Sparrowhawk eating some unidentified prey (or was it the Firecrest which had been calling briefly
just a moment before?!) was watched for a few moments in the pines below us, before we walked out
onto the dam for much more open views of the area. This was more productive and finally, given
patience, a couple of Lammergeiers and a juvenile Golden Eagle, the latter mobbed by a Northern
Raven, were seen in the scopes. A couple of Eurasian Crag Martins flew low over our lunch site, then
after our daily coffee stop as we headed S, we finished the day off with a couple of stops and short
walks at different spots adjacent to the Sotonera reservoir. Lots of mainly adult Yellow-legged gulls, a
single adult Lesser Black-backed Gull, c. 20 Eurasian Teal, a few Great Crested Grebes, three Merlins
either en route to or at the reservoir, including one accompanying (or parasitizing?) a juvenile male
Hen Harrier in their small bird hunt, a small mobile flock of Calandra Larks and, above all, over a
thousand bugling Common Cranes in nearby fields were just rewards. A number of darter dragonflies
sunning themselves in the lee of a few bushes seemed remarkable after the poor weather leading up to
our visit, but also two hawkers (probably Blue and Migrant) and a few butterflies, including Small
White, noted from car as we dropped down from Vadiello had also noted thanks to the warming sun!
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
The sun dipped below a thin band of cloud, staining the pre-Pyrenees dark pink, then the sky went an
impressive orange-pink-purple as it set. There was still time to spot a Golden Eagle distantly in flight
as it went to roost, and, best of all, almost exactly 60 Red Kites in a tight flock over a stand of tall
poplars where they were going to roost. A terrific finale!
Wednesday 20th
Castillo de Monte Aragón – Laguna de Sariñena – Bujaraloz – Daroca
Very fine and sunny, with a strong cold wind, increasing through the day.
A great start, despite going to the first site ‘cold’. The generally cold and windy conditions had meant
there had been a bit of a dearth of small birds, so we headed to a low grassy and rocky ridge,
especially in a spot just out of the wind, where we quickly found a number were showing. A couple
of European Stonechats and Zitting Cisticolas, plus the first of a few passing Griffon Vultures were
noted before one of the ‘prizes’, a pair of superb Black Wheatears were found moving about on some
bare rocks, and despite the distance the clear air allowed good views. A rather distant Blue Rock
Thrush silhouetted against the sky was difficult to appreciate, though our attention soon switched to a
fine Dartford Warbler in the low bushes just in front and then to a superb Little Owl was discovered
‘sleeping’ bolt upright in the low sun in a small cave under a ledge. A brief very blue male Blue Rock
Thrush then appeared on boulders above it before quickly disappearing again, while a pair of Thekla
Larks flew in and remained on show long enough to see the rufous-tinted rump between the closed
wingtips, as well as the densely spotted breast and dagger-shaped bill.
We finally pulled ourselves away and after noting lots of Red Kites, a few Northern Lapwings (where
are they this winter?!), several flocks of Common Cranes moving S, and a few Western Marsh
Harriers, a couple of Hen Harriers and an enormous mixed flock of Eurasian and Spotless Starlings,
among other species, we finally reached the Laguna de Sariñena. The rather chilly and windy viewing
area outside the visitor’s centre was too far, with the waterbirds tucked up at the N end in the lee of
the reedbeds, though a Little Gull was noted hawking over the middle and a few Greylag Geese,
including a small flock flying slowly into the wind towards shelter, stood out among the much smaller
duck. An invigorating walk to a viewpoint on the opposite shore revealed a total of 8 Little Gulls, a
pair of Gadwall, plus small numbers of Common Pochard, Northern Shoveler and Eurasian Wigeon
which were among the much larger number of Eurasian Teal, while a couple of Grey Herons on the
edge of the reeds were also new.
Again, we headed S, this time for a warming and well-earned drink and small snack at Bujaraloz,
before heading out onto the plains. This enormous area sometimes requires considerable patience,
and though we were a bit restricted by the small tracks still being too muddy to traverse, we persisted
and finally bumped into our main quarry, when Andreas spotted a couple of Great Bustards tucked
down beside clumps of vegetation between a couple of fields. And better still, as we manoeuvred to
put the minibus sideways on to act as a wind break for the scopes, a flock of sandgrouse were noted
dropping into a stony patch nearby. So after enjoying some of the bustard flock, despite about half of
them taking off for a quieter spot, we also enjoyed the sight of a dozen Pin-tailed Sandgrouse sitting
on the ground, facing towards us into the wind, the orange-breasted males being easy to see in the
bright sun. Simultaneously standing in the shelter of the vehicle and largely out of the strong wind
was slightly tricky for all 6 of us and three scopes, but considerable time was spent enjoying these
birds, with a huge male Great Bustard finally flying down and coming closer and so giving
particularly fine views. Just reward! And as sometimes happens, it was only when the last scope had
been packed away and we were all inside the van that two more birds flew in to land in the same rocks
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
as the Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. A pair of Black-bellied Sandgrouse! So it was all out again and at least
20 minutes more until they finally relaxed and started moving around, feeding, when we could see
them clearly and even occasionally, see the black belly patches!
A very late lunch was taken on the edge of the town in the shelter of a large farm building, and then
we took the easy, and much quicker motorway route to Daroca, noting how the light rain and snow
which was falling visible ahead of us fortunately was moving away as we advanced and the cloud
started to break as we entered the city and arrived at the hotel. After checking in Andreas took a late
afternoon walk, noting numerous Common Cranes passing over and remarkably, an Alpine Chough
over the city walls! It was looking good for Gallocanta!
Thursday 21st
Laguna de Gallocanta
Cold, frosty start, with cloud over lake from late morning and strong cold wind.
Theo was out at first light and saw the Alpine Chough, so once breakfast was over we all took the
short walk up beyond the edge of town, and although it was absent, the still and sunny conditions
were great, and a ‘pair’ of Cirl Buntings, a Rock Bunting and a Meadow Pipit perched on the same
wires, plus a Grey Wagtail in flight over the town were good finds.
The day was taken up with working the area around the huge Laguna de Gallocanta, and though this
was complicated by the strong cold wind, it remained dry throughout the day and we saw most of
what we wanted and a few things besides!
The site is justifiably famous as the stop-over site for Common Cranes in Spain, on migration from a
wide area of N Europe down to SW Spain (particularly Extremadura) where they winter, having
crossed the Pyrenees from another site in SW France. On arriving at the wide plain housing the lake,
we took a route straight out to take a first look to see where the birds were feeding, since they can
disperse over huge areas. The cold wind was keeping bird activity to a minimum, but small groups of
larks were moving around, including the first of plentiful Calandra Larks seen during the day, and of
course, a couple of dense groups of Common Cranes were feeding off both sides of the road, with
small groups moving noisily across. We rounded off here with two remarkably different-looking
ringtail Hen Harriers which chased off across the fields.
Backtracking we headed to the village of Gallocanta itself, and sheltering from the cold wind in the
lee of an old wall took our first look out over the huge lake, with the scopes being fundamental given
the huge distances. The ground frost had also frozen part of the lake, with dense packs of Mallard and
Eurasian Teal noted, while a huge number of Common Cranes were present along a long stretch
parallel to the SW shore. A small group of Greylag Geese noted here were the only ones seen all day,
though the distant Common Shelduck were the first of hundreds present.
We carried on round the E side, stopping for a while to contemplate a fine and mobile Iberian Grey
Shrike, which remarkably turned out to be the only one of the trip, before cutting across another track,
devoid of cranes, but with another surprise in store. A row of heads poked up through the stubble,
with some bumps in the ploughed field behind being a split flock of Black-bellied Sandgrouse. Some
17 in total and an excellent sight!
Another break to enjoy a look at yet more cranes was made at another information centre, fortunately
in the lee of the wind, with three Eurasian Curlew flying around being of particular note. We
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
continued onwards, finally finding a bar in a converted chapel (!) for a drink, complete with smokers
inside (!!), before once again continuing across the extensive arable fields surrounding the lake, with
our first Red Kite and Merlin for the day, plus more Hen and Western Marsh Harriers, as we worked
our way down to a small tower hide. Here we spent a long time watching both the movements of
cranes coming past and around as well as the large numbers of Common Shelducks and other ducks,
including Northern Pintail, Eurasian Wigeon and a few Gadwall. Small groups of waders were
moving up and down the shoreline with maxima of 66 Ruff, 13 Dunlin and 14 Little Stints at different
times, though the distance meant it was birding at the limit! A large Wild Boar which fled from the
shelter of the reedbed and along the edge of the lake was far easier to observe!
After a protracted lunch and once Tony really had finally started his return after a walk to pick up
some crane feathers lying alongside the track, we finally wound our way back out along a different set
of tracks, again noting Merlin, Hen and Western Marsh Harriers and a Red Kite en route, and went for
another well-earned drink, this time in the Allucant hostel in Gallocanta. Guessing at the number of
cranes present, to see that 38 thousand had been censussed the Thursday before meant we upped our
estimate to around 30 thousand, but it was impossible to be sure... That said, the weekly census which
is undertaken on Thursdays and indeed while we were there, gave a final figure for the day of almost
35,290!
We returned shortly before dusk, though the cloud which had accompanied us during most of the day
finally also shed a few fine drops, though the sunset flare from the upper tower of the city walls was
well worth the climb despite the Alpine Chough not being present! A very close Dartford Warbler as
Andreas met me shortly afterwards was difficult to see in the low light though!
Friday 23rd
El Planerón reserve – Embalse de Toso
A fine dry start at Daroca, but windy on the plains. Relatively mild in the morning but temperature
suddenly dropping and increasingly cloudy in the afternoon with a cold wind.
Despite it being fine and still at Daroca, the wind picked up as we headed N and towards the
remarkable open steppes of the Ebro valley. The drive produced a large number of Common Kestrels,
while working our way down to the reserve we passed a pool with 3 Little Grebes and an adult
Common Moorhen, and the track out produced a few Pin-tailed and Black-bellied Sandgrouse as well
as a mixed flock of larks, including several Calandras, though in the wind these were too far to
warrant getting the scopes out for!
It was not as cold as the previous days though, so we spent most of the morning walking around in the
admittedly outside chance of connecting with the main target of our visit, the ever elusive Dupont’s
Lark. But although we barely saw any birds for the terrain we covered, what we did see was of high
quality. The first surprise were two Common Quail which exploded out from a tussock and whirred
off in the wind. The second was the first of three or possibly four different Dupont’s Larks which
flew up and then dropped again into the steppe vegetation, never to be seen again! The last of these
larks was the best, stalling a little in flight as it dropped down upwind from us, uttering a single phrase
of its remarkable song as it disappeared! The third was another Common quail in a different area
which was burst out from almost under our feet. And the last were a few European Rabbits which
made us jump as they also rushed noisily out from their hiding sites in the grass before racing off to
their holes somewhere.
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
We finally called it a day and took a longer drive back, with single Lesser Short-toed Lark and a brief
Eurasian Hoopoe as reward, then headed to Belchite for a quick drink and then visit to the pharmacy
before starting the drive back. It was early enough to look for a new site en route and we detoured off
towards the Embalse de Toso to look for a couple of special animals. A long tortuous drive finally
allowed us views of the reservoir where much to our surprise, and to a degree, dismay, we
encountered a large flatbed trailer and small forestry flail, complete with tank-type tracks occupying
most of the viewpoint! Thankfully however, they were just finishing some forestry work and were
soon off, leaving us to enjoy the scenery and also experience how the temperature suddenly dropped
by several degrees!
The first ‘goal’ was quickly found, when a fine adult Bonelli’s Eagle was located perched high on a
crag, and then flew –revealing it was marked with a satellite tracker –, only to be joined by its mate,
before both circled up and drifted around for a long time, revealing both their upper and underside
patterns on numerous occasions in the good light.
Plenty of Griffon Vultures were also present, while the Bonelli’s pair suddenly turned and chased
something within a group of vultures and we could see it was an immature Golden Eagle, looking
none too happy about the experience! Shortly afterwards, this appeared to return though, while an
adult pair of Golden Eagles were also present, though apparently ignored (or actively avoided?!) by
the Bonelli’s. Again we watched the Bonelli’s perched a little closer before they drifted off to ‘play’ in
the wind again, though finally had to shelter in the minibus for a warming lunch break! Somewhat
revived, we emerged for a last good look only to find a superb little group of Spanish Ibex had
appeared on a nearby slope, and saw a whole range of behaviours, this being the mating season, from
males closely following females with their lips curled open, to the continued clashes between the two
large males present! Watching how they took it in turns to gain the higher ground then ear up on their
hind legs before dropping down to crash their horns together was a terrific sight! The slight delay in
the sound reaching us, slightly against the wind, just reinforced the amazing force of the impacts, with
the lower animal nearly being knocked clean off the ledge at one point and small stones flying off
from under their hooves on several others! We marvelled at this for well over half an hour before
finally having to call it a day and leaving!
We arrived back with time again for people to take a walk around the impressive little walled city of
Daroca before taking the last of our excellent dinners at our historic hotel.
Saturday 23rd
Laguna de Gallocanta – Barcelona & home
Largely fine and sunny; cold after a hard overnight frost, and windy.
Faced with the prospect of having to leave the vehicle unattended at a public car park on the coast
near the airport for an hour or so while birdwatching, we opted instead to take a last look at
Gallocanta and the Common Cranes. This was again rather a subdued affair given the strong cold
wind and strong overnight frost, though the tracks and lines of bare ground etched white across the
stubble fields where a dusting of snow still lay added a new dimension to the site!
The N end of the lake was perhaps even quieter than it had been a couple of days before, despite the
distant flocks of ducks and cranes, though a small flock of Corn Buntings in a nearly bare apple tree
below us also contained a single Eurasian Tree Sparrow. Several flocks of Common Cranes were in
the fields close to the route, but were clearly still not used to vehicles transiting the area, unlike some
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
years when they arrive earlier, and largely moved off at our approach. But views from near the S end
of the lake produced much closer cranes and just behind them, a large flock of Calandra Larks on the
ground and then repeatedly, in flight. A single ringtail Hen Harrier went low past, while a flying
Eurasian Curlew came down into a stubble field where it joined 7 more!
We finally left, with a very long drive ahead us, though not too far down the road and before the
motorway watched as a small Wild Boar raced up a field edge and over a little ridge. A nice ending to
our visit, though clearly on the route back, plenty of other birds were seen including lots of Eurasian
Kestrels, Griffon Vultures and Red Kites, plus a few Common Buzzards towards Barcelona. A
surprise new species for the tour were two small groups of Monk Parakeets in flight, with one on the
edge of Zaragoza and the other close to Barcelona, but only those very quick to look were lucky to see
them!
We walked into the terminal with 90 minutes before the UK flight, and after saying our farewells to
Andreas, who was heading back to Switzerland on a later flight, checked-in quickly and then had a
relaxing wait before catching our respective flights home.
I sincerely hope that you all had a very good time on this tour! The varied interests of the group
and your excellent humour and flexible approach helped make this a relaxing and very rewarding
holiday. Although the weather was not ‘perfect’, we worked around it where necessary and persisted
sufficiently where also needed to get views of just about everything wanted, and indeed the heavy
snow and freezing conditions which came into the high Pyrenees just days before the tour started
undoubtedly helped to push some birds down to lower levels. Indeed, with a final tally of 4
Wallcreepers (at three sites), 2 Alpine Accentors, 3 Lammergeiers, >35,000 Common Cranes, 3 (or
4?) Dupont’s Larks, Bonelli’s Eagle, Great Bustard, Pin-tailed and Black-bellied Sandgrouse,
Black Wheatear, Lesser Short-toed and Thekla Larks and Iberian Grey Shrike, among a total of
almost 110 bird species, it was one of the best tallies ever recorded on this tour! It is also interesting
to speculate on the origins of the unexpected two new bird species for this tour :Little Gull and
Common Quail. The first undoubtedly resulted from the bad weather in the Bay of Biscay at the
time and in contrast, the second presumably to the unusually warm conditions prevailing until very
shortly before we started!
I look forward to seeing you on tour again in the near future! With very best wishes,
John L. Muddeman
(www.iberianwildlife.com)
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
SPECIES LISTS
BIRDS - AVES
GROUSE, PHEASANTS & allies - Phasianidae
Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa : 1 en route on 17th.
Common Quail Coturnix coturnix : 3 El Planerón on 22nd.
Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus : One dead on road + 2 live en route (Theo) on 17th.
GEESE, SWANS & DUCKS - Anatidae
Greylag Goose Anser anser : C. 12 Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 6 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna : 3 Barcelona (David) on 17th, 300+ Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st and
noted again there on 23rd.
Gadwall Anas strepera : Pair Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 6+ Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope : C. 15 Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 25+ Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st and
30+ there on 23rd.
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos : 1 male en route on 18th, 6+ Cuarte Lake on 19th, abundant Laguna de Sariñena
on 20th, common Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st and again on 23rd.
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata : 20+ Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 100s Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st and
plenty there on 23rd.
Northern Pintail Anas acuta : 25+ Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
Eurasian Teal Anas crecca : C. 20 Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, 150+ Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 700+
Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st and noted there on 23rd.
Common Pochard Aythya ferina : 1 male Cuarte Lake on 19th, c. 15 Laguna de Sariñena on 20th.
GREBES - Podicipedidae
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis : 1 Cuarte Lake on 19th, 10+ Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 3 El Planerón
on 22nd.
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus : 1 Cuarte Lake & 3+ Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, 20+ Laguna de
Sariñena on 20th.
STORKS - Ciconiidae
White Stork Ciconia ciconia : 1 en route on 17th, 13 Cuarte Lake & 4+ N of Huesca on 19th, and a few en
route on 20th.
HERONS & BITTERNS - Ardeidae
Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis : Several en route on 17th, 3 en route on 23rd.
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea : (1 en route) on 17th, 2 Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 1 near Barcelona on 23rd.
Little Egret Egretta garzetta : 1 en route on 17th, 2 en route on 20th.
CORMORANTS - Phalacrocoracidae
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo : C. 15 en route on 17th, 2 en route on 18th, 4 Cuarte Lake, 1
Vadiello & 5+ Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, 5+ Laguna de Sariñena & 6 Bujaraloz on 20th, 1 El
Planerón on 22nd, and 1 near Barcelona on 23rd.
HAWKS, EAGLES & allies - Accipitridae
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
Red Kite Milvus milvus : 12+ en route on 17th, 10+ various sites on 18th, 60 at roost en route + others during
day on 19th, dozens en route on 20th, 2 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 3-4 various sites on 22nd, plenty
en route on 23rd.
Lammergeier / Bearded Vulture Gypaetus barbatus : 1 adult on 18th, 2 Vadiello on 19th.
Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus : 50+ various sites on 18th, 100s various sites on 19th, 12s en route on 20th, 12+
en route on 21st, 25+ various sites on 22nd, 15+ various sites on 23rd.
[Western] Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus : 1 Cuarte Lake + adult male + 1 immature Embalse de
Sotonera on 19th, 6+ en route on 20th, 15 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 1 Embalse del Toso on 22nd,
2-3 various sites on 23rd.
Hen/Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus : 1 male Alquézar on 17th, 1 adult female Vadiello + juvenile male,
adult male & juvenile female Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, 3 en route on 20th, c. 10 Laguna de
Gallocanta on 21st, 1 ringtail Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus : 1 en route on 17th, 2 lunch & 1 San Juan de la Peña on 18th, 1
Vadiello on 19th, 2 Bujaraloz on 20th, 1 Daroca on 21st, 1 Embalse del Toso on 22nd.
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo : A few en route on 17th, 2 en route on 18th, 2 en route on 19th, a few en
route on 20th, 1 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 2-3 various sites on 22nd, 6+ en route on 23rd.
Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos : 1 juvenile Vadiello & 1 poorly seen in flight en route on 19th, 1 adult near
Daroca en route on 20th, pair adults & 1 juvenile Embalse del Toso on 22nd.
Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata : Pair adults Embalse del Toso on 22nd.
FALCONS & allies - Falconidae
Common/Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus : Several en route on 17th, 2+ various sites on 19th, plenty
Bujaraloz+ on 20th, common Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 12+ various sites on 22nd, and plenty
Laguna de Gallocanta and en route on 23rd.
Merlin Falco columbarius : 1 Cuarte Lake on 18th, 3+ Embalse de Sotonera+ on 19th, 2-3 various sites on
20th, and 4-5 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus : 1 Riglos & pair San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
BUSTARDS - Otidae
Great Bustard Otis tarda : 22 Bujaraloz on 20th.
RAILS, CRAKES & COOTS - Rallidae
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus : 1 adult El Planerón on 22nd.
Eurasian/Common Coot Fulica atra : 4 Cuarte Lake on 19th, 1 Laguna de Sariñena on 20th.
CRANES - Gruidae
Common Crane Grus grus : 1000+ Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, 500+ on passage various sites on 20th, 35k
Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 1 Daroca on 22nd, and thousands Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
PLOVERS & LAPWINGS - Charadriidae
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus : 1 en route on 19th, 12+ various sites on 20th, c. 10 Laguna de
Gallocanta on 21st, a few near Barcelona airport on 23rd.
SANDPIPERS, SNIPES & allies - Scolopacidae
Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata : 3 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 8 Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
Little Stint Calidris minuta : 14 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
Dunlin Calidris alpina : 13 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
Ruff Philomachus pugnax : 66 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS - Laridae
Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus : Lots en route on 17th, several Laguna de Sariñena on 20th,
5-6 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
Little Gull Hydrocoloeus minutus : 6 juvenile + 2 adult Laguna de Sariñena on 20th.
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis : A few Barcelona on 17th, pair Cuarte Lake + 12s Embalse de
Sotonera on 19th, 1 en route on 20th, 2 near Barcelona airport on 23rd.
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus : 1 adult Embalse de Sotonera on 19th.
SANDGROUSE - Pteroclididae
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata : 12 Bujaraloz on 20th, 5+ El Planerón on 22nd.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis : Pair Bujaraloz on 20th, 17 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 2+
El Planerón on 22nd.
PIGEONS & DOVES - Columbidae
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia : Plenty various sites on 17th, plenty Riglos+ on 18th, plenty
various sites on 19th, plenty various sites on 20th, lots various sites on 21st, lots various sites on 22nd,
100s Daroca+ on 23rd.
[Common] Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus : Lots en route on 17th, several various sites on 18th and 19th,
plenty various sites on 20th, 1 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, several Embalse del Toso on 22nd, plenty
various sites on 23rd.
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto : Small to moderate numbers at various sites dailyfrom 17th 20th, several Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, plenty en route on 22nd, lots various sites on 23rd.
PARROTS & allies - Psittacidae
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus : 3-4 Zaragoza and 2 near Barcelona airport on 23rd.
OWLS - Strigidae
Little Owl Athene noctua : 1 Castillo de Montearagón on 20th.
HOOPOES - Upupidae
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops : 1 El Planerón on 22nd.
SHRIKES - Laniidae
Iberian Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis : 1 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
CROWS, JAYS & MAGPIES - Corvidae
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius : 1 en route on 17th, 2-3 San Juan de la Peña on 18th, several Embalse del
Toso+ on 22nd, 1-2 en route on 23rd.
Eurasian Magpie Pica pica : Lots en route on 17th, plenty various sites on 18th - 20th, several en route on
22nd, plenty en route on 23rd.
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax : 2 Riglos (Theo) on 18th, 1 en route on 19th, 3 El Planerón &
1 Daroca on 22nd.
Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus : 1 Daroca (Andreas) on 20th and same (Theo) on 21st.
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula : C. 60 Huesca on 19th, several Bujaraloz on 20th, 10 El Planerón on
22nd, c. 50 en route on 23rd.
Carrion Crow Corvus corone : 1 lunch on 18th, a few various sites on 19th and 20th, plenty various sites on
21st and 22nd, plenty Laguna de Gallocanta+ on 23rd.
Northern/Common Raven Corvus corax : 1 Alquézar on 17th, a few on 18th, several various sites on 19th, a
few on 20th and at Laguna de Gallocanta & Daroca on 21st, at least 1 en route on 23rd.
TITS & CHICKADEES - Paridae
Coal Tit Periparus ater : 2 San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
[European] Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus : 1 Cuarte Lake & heard San Juan de la Peña on 18th, heard
Daroca (Andreas & Theo) on 22nd.
Great Tit Parus major : Heard lunch on 18th, several Vadiello on 19th, heard en route on 23rd.
Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus : 2-3 various sites on 18th, 1 Vadiello on 19th.
SWALLOWS & MARTINS - Hirundinidae
Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris : 6 Riglos on 18th, c. 20 Vadiello on 19th, 2+ Embalse del
Toso on 22nd.
LARKS - Alaudidae
Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra : 30+ Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, 15+ Bujaraloz on 20th, lots
Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 20+ El Planerón on 22nd, 500+ Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens : 2 El Planerón on 22nd.
Dupont's Lark Chersophilus duponti : 3-4 El Planerón on 22nd.
Crested Lark Galerida cristata : 5 Cuarte Lake & a few Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, plenty various sites on
20th, several Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, plenty various sites on 22nd, several Laguna de Gallocanta
on 23rd.
Thekla Lark Galerida theklae : Pair Castillo de Montearagón on 20th, heard El Planerón on 22nd.
Eurasian/Common Skylark Alauda arvensis : 1 Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, heard Bujaraloz on 20th, then
plenty Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, El Planerón on 22nd and Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
CISTICOLAS & allies - Cisticolidae
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis : 1 Embalse de Sotonera on 19th, 2 Castillo de Montearagón on 20th, 1 El
Planerón on 22nd.
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
OLD WORLD WARBLERS - Sylviidae
Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti : Heard en route on 19th.
Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita : Two heard Cuarte Lake on 19th, heard Laguna de Sariñena on
20th, heard en route on 23rd.
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla : Heard Alquézar on 17th, heard Cuarte Lake on 18th, a male en route on 23rd.
Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata : 1 Castillo de Montearagón on 20th, 1 Daroca on 21st.
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala : Heard Cuarte Lake & heard Riglos on 18th, 1 male Cuarte Lake
on 19th.
CRESTS & KINGLETS - Regulidae
Goldcrest Regulus regulus : Heard Daroca (Andreas + Theo) on 22nd.
WRENS - Troglodytidae
Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes : Heard Riglos on 18th, heard Vadiello on 19th.
NUTHATCHES & WALLCREEPER - Sittidae
Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea : 1+ San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria : 1 Alquézar on 17th, 1 Riglos on 18th, and 2 “NOT HALF!” Vadiello on
19th.
TREECREEPERS - Certhiidae
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla : 1 San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
STARLINGS - Sturnidae
Common/European Starling Sturnus vulgaris : 2 Loarre on 18th, lots Cuarte Lake on 19th, 1000s en route
on 20th, noted Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, plenty various sites on 22nd, noted en route on 23rd.
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor : Lots en route on 17th, lots various sites on 18th - 20th, abundant Laguna
de Gallocanta on 21st, lots various sites on 22nd, abundant en route on 23rd.
THRUSHES - Turdidae
Common Blackbird Turdus merula : 3+ various sites on 18th, 1 en route on 19th, 1 Laguna de Sariñena on
20th, several various sites on 22nd, 1 en route on 23rd.
Redwing Turdus iliacus : Lots San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus : 4+ San Juan de la Peña on 18th, 1 Embalse de Sotonera on 19th.
OLD WORLD CHATS & FLYCATCHERS - Muscicapidae
European Robin Erithacus rubecula : Heard Alquézar on 17th, heard San Juan de la Peña on 18th, 1 Embalse
de Sotonera on 19th, heard Laguna de Sariñena on 20th, 1 Embalse del Toso on 22nd.
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros : 3+ Alquézar on 17th, 6+ Loarre on 18th, 2 Vadiello & 1 Embalse de
Sotonera on 19th, a few various sites on 20th, 2 Daroca & 1 en route on 21st, 2 Daroca on 22nd, 1
Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
European/Common Stonechat Saxicola rubicola : 1 male Riglos on 18th, 1 en route & 1 Embalse de
Sotonera on 19th, a few Castillo de Montearagón on 20th, several El Planerón on 22nd.
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura : Pair Castillo de Montearagón on 20th.
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius : 1 male Riglos on 18th, 2 Castillo de Montearagón on 20th.
OLD WORLD SPARROWS & allies - Passeridae
House Sparrow Passer domesticus : Noted en route on 17th, several various sites on 18th, lots various sites
19th - 22nd, plenty various sites on 23rd.
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus : 1+ Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia : 1 Alquézar on 17th, 1 in flight en route on 19th, 1 Laguna de Gallocanta
on 23rd.
ACCENTORS - Prunellidae
Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris : 2 Riglos on 18th.
WAGTAILS & PIPITS - Motacillidae
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea : 1 Alquézar on 17th, 2 Daroca on 21st.
White Wagtail Motacilla alba : Lots various sites on 18th, a few on 19th, plenty various sites on 20th and
21st, a few various sites on 22nd.
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis : 2 Cuarte Lake on 18th, several various sites on 19th, plenty on 20th, 2
Daroca+ on 21st, several El Planerón on 22nd.
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta : 2 Cuarte Lake on 19th.
FINCHES & allies - Fringillidae
Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs : Noted en route on 17th, plenty various sites on 18th - 21st, abundant
Embalse del Toso+ on 22nd, plenty various sites on 23rd.
European Serin Serinus serinus : 6+ Cuarte Lake on 19th, 15-20 Castillo de Montearagón on 20th, several
Daroca on 21st.
European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis : Plenty various sites on 18th, “LOTS!” Embalse de Sotonera+ on
19th, various sites on 20th, Laguna de Gallocanta+ on 21st, plenty various sites on 22nd, a few Laguna
de Gallocanta+ on 23rd.
Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina : C. 10 Cuarte Lake on 18th, plenty Embalse de Sotonera+ on 19th,
lots en route on 20th, lots Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, lots El Planerón+ on 22nd.
Common/Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra : 2 over Loarre Castle on 18th.
Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula : Heard San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
BUNTINGS, NEW WORLD SPARROWS & allies - Emberizidae
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra : Plenty various sites on 19th, several en route on 20th, 2 en route on 21st,
a few various sites on 22nd, plenty Laguna de Gallocanta on 23rd.
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia : 3+ Cuarte Lake on 18th, 1 Daroca on 21st.
Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus : Pair Daroca on 21st.
Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus : 1 Cuarte Lake on 19th, 1 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
MAMMALS - MAMMALIA
RABBITS & HARES - Leporidae
European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus : 1 en route (Theo) on 20th, 2 El Planerón on 22nd.
SQUIRRELS - Sciuridae
Eurasian Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris : 1 juvenile San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
MICE, RATS, VOLES & GERBILS - Muridae
Common Vole Microtus arvalis : 2 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
DOGS & allies - Canidae
Red Fox Vulpes vulpes : Dead on road on 22nd.
WEASELS & allies - Mustelidae
Beech Marten Martes foina : Dead on road Sariñena on 20th.
HEDGEHOGS, MOLES & allies - Order: ERINACEOMORPHA
European Mole Talpa europaea : Hills San Juan de la Peña on 18th.
PIGS - Suidae
Eurasian Wild Boar Sus scrofa : ‘Rootlings’ San Juan de la Peña on 18th, 1 Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st, 1
big piglet en route on 23rd.
DEER - Cervidae
[Western] Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus : 5 (-7) Laguna de Gallocanta on 21st.
CATTLE, ANTELOPE, SHEEP & GOATS - Bovidae
Spanish Ibex Capra pyrenaica : 3 males & 2 females on 22nd.
BUTTERFLIES - LEPIDOPTERA
WHITES, YELLOWS & SULPHURS - Pieridae
Small White Pieris rapae : 1 Vadiello on 19th.
Clouded Yellow Colias crocea : 2 various sites on 18th, 1 Laguna de Sariñena on 20th.
Vanessids & smaller Fritillaries - subf: Nymphalinae
Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta : 1 Laguna de Sariñena on 20th.
Browns, Ringlets & Satyrs - subf: Satyrinae
DAMSELFLIES & DRAGONFLIES - ODONATA
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
Blue Hawker Aeshna cyanea : 1 Loporzano on 19th.
Migrant Hawker Aeshna mixta : 1 Loporzano on 19th.
Common Darter Sympetrum striolatum : 6+ Embalse de Sotonera on 19th.
OTHER SELECTED INSECTS - INSECTA
Blue-winged Grasshopper Oedipoda caerulescens : 1 Riglos + 1 lunch on 18th.
© John L. Muddeman & The Travelling Naturalist 2013
The Travelling Naturalist Holidays
Northern Spain, Nov ’13 Trip Report
Alpine Accentor on the cliffs…
The cliffs near Vadiello
of Riglos!
A ‘pair’ of Common Darters
Dupont’s Larks this way!
All photos © J. L. Muddeman
& sparring Spanish Ibex