Drive A More Powerful, Better Sounding BMW Or MINI In 2013

N213SpringNews_Newsletter Template Update Aug 2012 2/26/13 12:39 PM Page 1
the newsletter of Bavarian Autosport
Drive a more powerful, better sounding BMW
or MINI in 2013 – add an aFe intake system.
drilling into the engine compartment is
required. (For a step-by-step guide, go
to blog.BavAuto.com/go/aFe-intake.)
Spring 2013
DIY: Got shimmy?
Replace control
arms & bushings.
• Restrictive panel air filter is
replaced with a high-performance, highflow, 360-degree air filter with the deepest pleats in the industry.
aFe intake in a 2007 335i
aFe’s air intake systems are designed to not only dramatically improve air flow and,
thus, engine performance, but to give your BMW or MINI a more aggressive sound
under throttle. The benefits of installing an aFe system on your BMW or MINI include:
• Increased horsepower and torque. Specific gains depend on the year and model
of your BMW or MINI, driving conditions (high altitude vs. sea level), the condition of
other components, etc. Many dyno results are listed in our online store at BavAuto.com.
• Factory air box is replaced with a
heat shield that seals to the hood or has
an airtight cover. This prevents the hot
air that surrounds the engine from entering the filter and robbing you of power.
(Hot air is less dense so it doesn’t combust as powerfully.)
If your BMW or
MINI seems to
shimmy when
you drive, a
likely culprit is worn
control arm bushings.
See page 7…
table of contents
• Maximum airflow for better acceleration and responsiveness. This improvement in performance is usually accompanied by greater fuel efficiency.
• Installs in less than 30 minutes. Uses factory mounting points – no cutting or
“Momentum” intake system for the new 328i turbo.
• Filters are washable and reusable.
With proper care, the filter(s) should last
the life of the car – one reason aFe intakes have a limited lifetime warranty!
aFe air intake systems are available for
a wide range of BMWs and MINIs. Prices
range from $194.95–895.95. (And shipping is free on every one of them!)
Now thru April 30th, get an
instant $25 rebate on any
aFe air intake system.
aFe intakes: More power for less
1
DIY: Replacing a leaking valve
cover gasket
2
Product Focus: Berber mats
2
Ask Bavarian Otto
3
Poster: Alpina B9 3.5
4–5
DIY: Replacing shift knobs in
BMWs and MINIs
6
Product Focus: Choosing
control arm bushings
6
DIY: Replacing control arms &
bushings on BMWs & MINIs
7
April specials
8
Parts, accessories & knowledge since 1974.
© 2013 Bavarian Autosport
phone 800.535.2002 • fax 800.507.2002 • www.BavAuto.com
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Bavarian Autosport
275 Constitution Ave.
Portsmouth, NH 03801
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AUTOSPORT
N213SpringNews_Newsletter Template Update Aug 2012 2/22/13 5:02 PM Page 2
do-it yourself
valve cover gasket
DIY: Replacing a leaking valve cover gasket.
Leaking valve cover gaskets are fairly common on BMWs. These leaks can be more
than just a messy inconvenience: a leaking valve cover gasket can cause a vacuum
leak, which creates problems with the engine management system. Additionally, oil
commonly leaks into the spark plug wells causing deterioration of the spark plug
connector boots and arcing of the ignition spark, which creates ignition misfires.
(A common cause for a fault code of “random misfires” is oil in the spark plug wells.)
Replacement of a BMW valve cover gasket can be relatively quick and easy, as it is
on most 2002, 3, 5, 6 and 7 series through the ‘80s and into the early ‘90s, or may
require a bit more work, as with the 6- and 8-cylinder models from the early ‘90s on,
but these are still not terribly difficult.
4- and 6-cylinder engines (those with distributor caps and regular spark plug ignition
wires), you simply remove the valve cover securing nuts and lift off the valve cover to
expose the gasket. (You may have to first remove the intake air filter or a bracket or
two.) The later “coil-on-plug” applications (6- and 8-cylinder models from the early ‘90s
on) require the coils to be removed prior to the valve cover removal.
In this article and accompanying video, we’ll address valve cover gasket replacement
on the common 6-cylinder engines (M50, M52, M54, M56, S50, S52 and S54). These
engines are used in the early ‘90s through mid ‘00s in many 3, 5, X and Z series.
The obvious clues to a leaking valve cover gasket are signs of external oil leakage or,
in the case of the later 6- and 8-cylinder engines, oil in the spark plug wells, which you
may discover while performing a spark plug change (blog.BavAuto.com/go/coils). If so,
you should order the replacement valve cover gaskets and plan the job. On the early
product focus
Figure 1
Our Berber floor mat sets
combine style and strength…
and now savings, too!
Our Berber floor mats are made using a
heavy-duty, 42oz. carpeting on top of an
insulating layer, on top of a waterproof membrane. This “sandwich”
is cut to fit your year and model
BMW or MINI precisely, then finished with genuine serge edging
for the ultimate in style and
durability. A BMW-style Velcro®
retention system keeps them in
place. You can order them plain
or embroidered with your model
number in the center or with
the Bavarian Autosport logo
along the side. And now
through April 30th, you can
save $15! Plain and Bavarian logo mats, originally
$129.95 set, are now
$114.95; model number
mats, originally $154.95 set,
are now $139.95. All are backed
by a Lifetime Warranty.
Is it a match for your interior?
Ask for free color samples (right)...
1. Some models require that the cowl HVAC
2. Remove the four Torx-head screws secur-
(Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) air inlet
tray be removed in order to allow full access to
the engine valve cover. This E46 3 series does
require removal of the cowl tray. Start by releasing the three ¼-turn fasteners to remove the microfilter cover and the filter (Fig. 1).
ing the cowl tray to the firewall (Fig. 2).
3. Release the two mounting clips and pull the
wiring harness assembly from the front of the
cowl tray.
Figure 3
Figure 4
4. Pull the cowl tray up and out of the engine
5. Remove the engine trim cover. Pry out the
compartment (Fig. 3).
two round trim plugs on the trim cover (Fig. 4).
Remove the two 10mm nuts or bolts. Lift the
plastic trim cover off and set aside (Fig. 5).
NOTE: This later M54 engine uses “pencil”
Figure 5
Left to right: Medium Beige, Dark Beige, Medium Gray,
Black and Dark Gray (mat set pictured above).
2 | shop online www.BavAuto.com
Figure 2
style coils that are secured in place by a snaplock cover. Earlier style coils are secured in
place via studs and nuts. On these earlier models, remove the two 10mm securing nuts and
pry the metal clamp on the harness plug upward
to release the plug from the coil. The coil can
then be pulled up and removed.
Continued on our blog...
To read this article in its entirety
and watch our DIY video, go to
blog.BavAuto.com/go/VCG.
Very simple installation.
Relatively simple; your BMW may need to be raised.
N213SpringNews_Newsletter Template Update Aug 2012 2/22/13 5:01 PM Page 3
ask “bavarian otto”
from blog.BavAuto.com
Over 304 years of BMW/MINI experience is
yours for the asking – free!
If you add up all the years the advisors at
Bavarian Autosport have been working on BMWs
and MINIs – and helping people like you work on
theirs – it totals well over 300 years. That’s a lot
of knowledge under one roof. And it’s yours for the
asking. Have a question about your BMW or MINI?
Search Bavarian Otto’s knowledge base of nearly 1,000
tech Q&As at blog.BavAuto.com, or call 800.535.2002.
A slight twist on ignition coil replacement for V8s.
Dear Bavarian Otto,
I have a 2008 550i. I replaced the coils in cylinders 5 and 7 on my car and
found two plastic wing holders on top of the coils. I just thought you might
like to add this to your “how to” DIY area of your blog. I used a 5 mm socket
to loosen the plastic wing enough to rotate it 90 degrees and allow complete access to the coils. The wing holders also say “front” on them to specify which way they go but I am unsure why as they seem the same. There
were white spots on the old coils where they had been hot.
Otto replies:
Thank you for your notes on the coil removal (and, secondarily, spark plug
replacement) on the N62 V8 engines. The coil retaining clamps that you
have noted are unique to the BMW N62 V8 engine family. These engines
are found in the following BMW models:
5 series 545i, 550i 04-10 (E60 chassis)
6 series 645ci, 650i 04-12 (E63/64 chassis)
7 series 745i, 745Li, 750i, 750Li, B7 02-09 (E65/66 chassis)
X5 4.4i, 4.8is 04-06 (E53 chassis)
X5 4.8i 07-10 (E70 chassis)
As noted, the coil retaining clamps must be moved in order to remove the
coils. The bolt securing the clamp requires a Torx socket for the retainer to
be removed or, as your note suggests, the bolt can simply be loosened and
the clamp can be rotated if there is room. (This may not work on
all cylinders, in which case, the clamp would need to be removed.)
The coils in your BMW are referred to as “pencil” coils. At Bavarian Autosport we sell both stock replacement ignition coils (black
cap, below) and our exclusive high-performance ignition coils
(red cap, left). What makes them high-performance? The core
windings inside the coils have been modified to
produce a hotter spark for more complete combustion, resulting in more power and better efficiency.
And while we have not produced a DIY video on coil and
spark plug replacement for your N62 V8 engine, you can
watch our video for the M54 6-cylinder engines – the coils
and procedures are very similar to the N62 engine. To watch
the video, go to blog.BavAuto.com/go/coils2 or use your
smartphone to scan the QR code at right.
Specific tools needed; repair experience recommended.
MINI fan failure could mean headache for MINI fans.
Dear Bavarian Otto,
The power steering fan in my MINI has seized up. Does it need to be replaced, and why is it in a place that is so exposed?
Otto replies:
The power steering pump on R50, R52 and R53 MINIs (Cooper/S 02 thru 06)
is driven by an electric motor. Additionally, the pump is mounted under the
engine’s exhaust manifold. These two factors combine to create a very real
potential of overheating the power steering pump assembly. MINI added
the cooling fan in order to help keep the pump’s temperature to acceptable
levels and increase its life. Failure of the cooling fan is quite common, due
to its location. It is bombarded by water, salt, sand and other road debris.
The fragile plastic grill that is supposed to protect it often gets ripped off,
which makes the fan itself open to physical damage. When the fan has
failed, it is imperative that it be replaced as the pump is in danger of overheating. The fan is very easy to replace, once you have the car raised and
safely supported:
1) Remove the two nuts securing the fan mounting plate, remove the
wiring harness plug and remove the assembly from the vehicle.
2) Remove the four screws securing the fan to the mount plate and remove
the fan from the plate.
3) Mount the new fan to the mounting plate, securing with the four screws.
4) Reinstall the fan and mounting plate assembly, into the vehicle.
NOTE: If the grill is missing, you will want to order and install a new grill to
protect the new fan from physical damage.
We sell both the cooling fan and the protective grill at BavAuto.com, or you
can call and order through one of our advisors at 800.535.2002..
No, they’re unretouched! Wheelly... I mean really!
Dear Bavarian Otto,
The second word on this [wheel repair] blog post is “unretouched” [referring to the before and after photos]. Do you honestly expect us to believe
that? I’ve never seen a DIY wheel repair kit that could produce the results
you claim. Count me among the disbelievers. (If I’m wrong, I’ll take two!)
Otto replies:
We swear on our Bentley manual! Those photos
[right] were taken by one of our employees who
was testing the wheel repair kit for us. His review was so thorough and convincing, we deBefore
cided to use his photos rather than retake them
professionally. In the three-plus years we’ve
been offering this kit, we’ve sold thousands of
them and seen less than a handful returned because people were dissatisfied with the results.
After
Will that be MasterCard or VISA?... ;-)
To read the blog post in question, scan the QR code at right
or go to blog.BavAuto.com/go/wheel–repair.
(P.S. The full wheel repair kit is on sale thru April 30th.)
Experienced technicians only.
call 800.535.2002 | 3
N213SpringNews_Newsletter Template Update Aug 2012 2/22/13 11:29 AM Page 6
do-it yourself
replacing shift knobs & e-brake handles | replacing control arms & bushings
DIY: Replacing shift knobs & e-brake handles.
Depending on the year and model of your BMW or MINI, and whether the transmission is a manual or automatic, there are a few different methods of removing shift
knobs in order to replace them. Let’s take a look at the most popular versions:
Late manual transmissions 1982 on. These knobs simply snap onto the shifter lever.
Early manual transmissions thru 1981. These knobs screw on. Simply grasp the
knob and turn it counter-clockwise to un-screw. Install the new knob by turning the knob clockwise
on the shifter lever. This style of shifter can also receive the aftermarket upgrade knobs that install
using set-screws such as UUC Motorwerks, Bavarian Autosport, Hamann, AC Schnitzer, etc.).
Early automatic transmissions, all 3-speeds thru 1983/84. These T-shaped
handles are secured to the shifter lever by one Allen head set-screw. Pull the lever back to the LOW
gear position and use an Allen key to remove the set-screw from the forward side of the knob, directly above the lever shaft. Pull the knob upward off the shaft. Note that there will be a nylon rod attached to a pin on the release trigger; this is the detent locking rod. Pull the rod all the way out.
Hook the detent rod to the trigger pin on the new shift knob and insert the assembly into the shift
lever shaft (pulling the trigger up while installing will help to keep the detent rod on the trigger pin).
Seat the knob on the shaft and install the set-screw.
Mid automatic transmissions, all 4- and 5-speeds from 1984/85 thru
mid 1990s. These T-shaped handles are configured differently from the early T-shaped handles
3. When installing the new
1. To remove, grasp the knob
and pull firmly upward. If the
knob has never been removed
before, the snap clips may be
very tight. Put the shifter into
2nd gear and use both hands to
grasp and pull on the knob.
(previous paragraph), however the removal and installation procedures are virtually the same.
Instructions for late automatic transmissions and e-brake handles can be found on our blog...
To read the rest of this article
and watch the DIY video, go to
blog.BavAuto.com/go/shift-knob.
2. A sharp, jerking pull can
help release the securing clips
– just don’t hit yourself in the
face when a finicky knob finally
pops free.
knob, slide the knob over the
lever and line up the tabs in
the top of the knob’s receiver
socket with the slot in the top
of the shifter lever.
4. Once lined up, give
5. This style of shifter
the top of the knob a
sharp blow with your
palm or fist to engage
the securing clips in the
base of the knob with
the groove in the lever.
shaft can also receive
the aftermarket, setscrew style upgrade
knobs such as UUC
Motorwerks, Bavarian
Autosport, Hamann,
AC Schnitzer, etc.
product focus
“Which control arm bushings should I install on my car?”
Compare and decide!
Bushings are fitted to all points
on a vehicle where the chassis is
joined to a moving suspension
component. The job of bushings
is to provide a barrier between
you and road noise/vibrations.
Worn bushings cause accelerated tire wear, braking instability, shimmying and more. Replacing worn bushings will restore the precise handling BMWs
and MINIs are famous for. And
installation is definitely DIY-able.
(see page 7). We offer stock,
heavy-duty and performance
bushings. To determine which
kind of bushings are right for
you and your BMW or MINI,
compare the descriptions at
right. If you’re still not sure, ask
one of our friendly advisors.
Stock replacment bushings. Using stock replacement
Meyle heavy-duty replacement bushings. Upgrading to
bushings will give you a nice,
comfortable ride and are initially
the most cost-effective. But they
will flex more under stress and
during spirited driving, and will
fail sooner than heavy-duty or
performance bushings, costing
you more labor in the long run.
Available for all BMWs and MINIs.
$8.95–79.95 pair.
Meyle heavy-duty bushings doesn’t
change the comfort or quality of
your ride – it simply gives you
greater control and better road
feel. Heavy-duty bushings also
last longer than stock bushings
so they don’t need to be replaced
as often, saving labor costs.
Available for many BMWs.
$64.95–89.95 pair
Bavarian Autosport
performance bushings. Our polyurethane performance bushings maintain the car’s
suspension geometry better
than rubber bushings, giving you
greater control. And they’re more
forgiving than other performance
bushings so the ride is closer to
stock. Available for 3 series 99
thru 05, 5 series 97 thru 03.
$64.95–129.95 pair.
Powerflex performance
bushings. Made with a urethane compound that is stiffer
than rubber yet has the same
noise-absorbing properties.
They prolong tire life, improve
road holding and chassis performance and increase safety
without compromising the comfort of your ride. Available for
many BMWs and MINIs.
$23.95–487.95 pair.
Now thru April 30th, get 10% off all control arm bushings! Discount varies by brand - for details, see page 8…
6 | shop online www.BavAuto.com
Very simple installation.
Relatively simple; your BMW may need to be raised.
N213SpringNews_PAGE7_Newsletter Template Update Aug 2012 2/22/13 5:12 PM Page 7
replacing shift knobs & e-brake handles | replacing control arms & bushings
DIY: Replacing controls arms & bushings.
We know that our BMWs and MINIs are great handling machines, right? Of course,
they are. That’s one of the major reasons we drive them. An important part of this
great handling is the vehicle’s ratio of “sprung weight” to “unsprung weight.” Sprung
weight is the amount of weight carried by the suspension springs. Unsprung weight
is the amount of weight that is not suspended by the springs; this would include
wheels, tires, brake components, bearings, hubs, spindles, a portion of the control
arms and the springs themselves. Any suspension will perform better if the ratio of
sprung weight to unsprung weight is high, which BMW’s and MINI’s are.
The only drawback to this is that BMW suspensions are very susceptible to vibrations
as a result of worn bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, tires, etc. One of the most
Front control arms & bushings on other BMWs:
If you own a BMW other than a 3 series 84 thru 05, you have some different options:
■ One option is to buy just the bushings, remove your existing control arms, press the
old bushings out of them, press the new ones in and reinstall the control arms. This
requires a bushing removal/installation tool and/or access to a hydraulic press. If you
have these tools, this option is less expensive but more labor-intensive. (If you need
a bushing removal/installation tool, order part #W312130.) NOTE: if you re-use the
old control arms and you have not recently replaced the ball joints, you’re gambling
with how worn they are – you might want to replace them while you’re in there.
■ Another option is to buy new control arms with new ball joints and bushings already
installed. While the parts for this option are obviously more expensive than buying the
bushings alone, the labor required is much less – all you have to do is remove the
old control arms and install the new ones. Plus you eliminate the risk of having old
ball joints fail right after you just finished installing the new control arm bushings.
Note: no matter which BMW or MINI you drive, or which option you choose, the
following general procedures assume the appropriate Bentley manual is at hand.
or
common source of front-end vibrations, or shimmying, is worn control arm bushings.
These bushings absorb all of the vehicle’s front-end loading during braking, cornering
and even steady highway driving. With age and mileage, the original bushings become
weak (although they may look just fine) and allow the control arms to oscillate, creating
the vibration, or shimmy, that we feel. The fix for this is to replace the control arms
and bushings, which are not only modest in cost, they are relatively easy to install.
While everything mentioned above applies to all BMW models (3, 5, 6, 7, 8, M, Z and
X chassis and all MINIs), in this article and the accompanying video we will be replacing a control arm and bushing on a BMW 3 series 99 thru 05 (E46 chassis). This
procedure is applicable to all 3 series from 1984 through 2005, as well as all MINIs.
Procedure:
1. Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground.
2. Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
3. Release the outer control arm ball joint as follows: Loosen the nut on the top of the ball joint’s
tapered pin but do not fully remove it (Fig. 1). Using a 2 to 3 lb short-handled sledgehammer, give
the knuckle area a series of sharp-forceful blows (Fig. 2), If the ball joint’s tapered pin does not release from the knuckle, try using a pry-bar to provide downward pressure on the end of the control
arm while hitting the knuckle with the hammer. This can take a good
series of multiple HARD blows with the hammer. If the tapered pin is
still not releasing, you will have to resort to a “pickle-fork” (Fig. 3).
Insert the pickle-fork between the ball joint and the knuckle and use
the hammer to force the pickle-fork between the two parts (Fig. 4).
If you get the pickle fork in as far as it will go and the joint is still not
separating, try repeating the blows to the knuckle (as in the first sequence) with the pickle-fork in place.
NOTE: Never use a pickle-fork to separate the ball joints if you intend to reuse the control arm (and ball joints), as the fork will typiFigure 4
cally tear the ball joint’s rubber boot.
4. Release the inner ball joint in a similar fashion
to the outer ball joint. Note that it may be necessary to resort to the pickle-fork due to a lack of
area to use the hammer, as a first course of
action (Fig. 5).
Continued on our blog...
Figure 5
Winner! BMW in Spring: Rod Deyo of Maine and his 1999 Z3.
To read this article in its entirety
and watch the DIY video, go to
blog.BavAuto.com/go/control–arm.
For this photo, Rod received a $100 Bavarian Autosport savings certificate.
Complete photo contest rules are available at www.BavAuto.com/photocontest.
Specific tools needed; repair experience recommended.
Experienced technicians only.
call 800.535.2002 | 7