make your own hot-glass mold

Transcription

T u t o r i a l
b y
B r o n w e n
H e i l m a n
w w w . a r t f u l s u c c e s s . c o m
MAKE YOUR OWN HOT-GLASS MOLD
An Easy Way to Speed Up Production or Custom Work in Glass with Metal Clay
All content © 2013 Tonya Davidson. All rights reserved. Reproduction of this publication in whole or part is expressly forbidden.
Step by Step for Your
Custom Copprclay Mold:
MAKE A POSITIVE MOLD:
Super Sculpey is used as the molding material, but any polymer clay that is baked is suitable.
1
Gather a fifty-cent size piece of clay.Kneed it in your hands to warm it up.
This will make it soft and pliable.
2
Place 6 playing or business cards stacked up on each side as the spacers for the
thickness of the slab. Roll out the softened clay into a slab using a pvc roller.
3
As the polymer clay is being rolled out, care should be taken so the polymer clay
does not stick to the rolling pin. A sprinkling of baby powder often works well
to prevent sticking.
4
Draw the image that the stamp will be. Sharpie marker burns out during the firing
process.
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All content © 2013 Tonya Davidson
5
Cut out the heart shape with an craft knife.
6
Complete cutting out the heart shape
7
The edges of the positive mold needs to be rounded. You can
do this with your finger or a clay shaping tool.
8
The finished heart shape. No worries, if it’s not
exactly as you wish, once dry, you can sand the
edges with an emery board. (particulate mask
recommended)
9
Follow the instructions for curing your polymer heart by baking in a toaster oven. A
dedicated oven and pan is best. For best results try a convection toaster.
10
Place the non-cured positive mold on a piece of parchment paper and on a dedicated metal tray.
11
Put the un-cured polymer clay mold into a toaster-oven and follow the instructions for baking the polymer clay.
I have found that some toaster ovens are not accurate. Some experimentation should determine the correct time and temperature for the polymer
clay being used and the toaster oven. Also a oven temperature gauge is recommended.
12
Gloves in a Bottle protects hands from the copper clay. Make sure to get some under
your nails to prevent discoloration.
13
Badger Balm is used on the work surface and
tools to protect the work surface from sticking
to the copper clay.
14
Spread a thin layer of Badger on the work surface
15
Open up the new package of copper clay. This brand is from Metal Clay Adventures and is called copprclay.
16
This is what is inside the package. Another sealed
package.
Fresh copper clay usually doesn’t need to be
kneaded. However occasionally it requires a
bit of preparation.
17
Here is a great tutorial on how to get started
with a package of clay (base metal clay) or even
working with old clay (http://bit.ly/12SBQL1).
Roll it out into a 4 card-thick slab. Place extra
clay in plastic wrap for the next step.
18
Below is the positive mold in cured polymer clay, and the slab of copprclay.
19
Lay the copprclay on top of the positive mold, and press the
copprclay around the mold.
20
Continue to press the copprclay to the positive
polymer clay mold until the clay is surrounding
it completely and is well formed around it. You
are wanting to create a lip around the positive
form so this is essential to the shaping process.
21
Trim away the excess copprclay from the polymer clay
mold.
22
Using a tissue blade, remove the clay from the work surface. This is what the
clay and the positive mold looks like from the bottom side.
23
Take a bit more copprclay to make the handle. If the copprclay
looks a little bit dry at the edges, then it must be kneaded.
Add a small amount of water, and knead it until it is smooth.
Try not to fold the clay or ball it which adds in air pockets and
fractures to the clay (see video from step 17)
Roll out a smaller slab about 1” wide.
25
Trim away the sides so you end up with a “rectangle”
24
26
Place a few layers of tape around a dowel. This is a recycled tool handle but a
dowel works just fine.
27
Wrap the slab of copper clay around the dowel.
Trim the ends so that they meet.
29
28
Make a copprclay paste by adding water and mixing the clay.
30
Wet both sides of the seam, and use plenty of the copprclay as a glue, and paste
the seam shut. Let this set up for 5-10 minutes.
31
32
33
Now that the heart shape is leather-hard or mostly dry (10-15 minutes), carefully
remove the polymer positive model from the copprclay form.
Remove the cylinder of copper clay from the
dowel. Leave it on the tape. The tape will help
the piece keep its shape. If you leave it on the
dowel, as the clay dries it shrinks and will most
likely crack or break when you try to remove.
Place the copper clay pieces in a food dehydrator to dry. (do not use this dehydrator for food)
34
Turn on the dehydrator. Depending on the thickness of your pieces of copprclay, and your climate, it may take a while to dry.
35
Inspect the dry piece
36
Sand the edges using 250 grit sand paper (again a particulate mask is recommended)
37
Using a craft knife or x-acto blade, remove any under-cuts the piece may
have.
38
39
Sand the tube flat on one end
Once the copprclay pieces are dry, mix up some paste again, and liberally use it to
adhere the pieces together.
40
Apply a lot of copprclay paste onto the end of the tube, and onto
the heart where they will join.
Add more paste to the joint.
42
41
Add even more paste to the joint.
Dry the copprclay piece again in the dehydrator.
43
44
The copprclay piece is now ready for the kiln
45
Place ½ inch kiln furniture in the bottom of the kiln. This will keep the work
lifted off of the floor and create an even temperature around the work
Place a small amount of coconut carbon in the bottom of a stainless steel pan.
Place the dry copprclay piece on top or 1.5” of a carbon layer. Do not cover the
piece with more carbon. You are going to do an “open air” firing first. Also do
not put the lid on the steel pan for this firing.
FIRST PART OF THE FIRING SCHEDULE, THE “OPEN-AIR” FIRING:
RAMP KILN 250 DEG. F / HOUR
GOALTEMPERATURE is 550 DEG. F
HOLD FOR 30 MINUTES
46
Once cool, open the kiln, and add another 1-1.5” layer of coconut carbon on
top of the copper clay piece.
47
Cover the pan with the lid.
Fire full-speed to 1745 deg. F. Hold for 3 to 5 hours.
48
49
The firing is complete. Note, the steel pan will release fire scale oxidation. This
is normal. Simply vacuum out your kiln afterwards to remove the debris.
50
Wait for the pan to cool or you can move the hot pan to the trash, with
proper gloved protection. Place the pan in a trash bin. This is just to keep
the area clean and to catch all of the carbon from the pan.
51
After removing the ash layer on the surface of the carbon (which is trash), dig
the piece out from the carbon.
52
Here is the copprclay stamp right out of the
carbon pan. The background is the original
polymer clay positive mold.
NOTE: There is a good likelihood that your copper piece will develop cracks during firing. This is the nature of
the material. You can repair these cracks, if necessary to the use of the stamp, with more copprclay and refire it.
You can also solder the copprclay. Due to the skill level of soldering, we will not be covering this technique in this
tutorial.
53
Burnishing the copprclay stamp is pretty easy with a rock tumbler. This tumbler is a
vibratory model and uses stainless steel shot. You can use a rotary tumbler as well.
Burnishing compound is added to water (approximately 1.5-2” above the shot). This
is a powdered form or you can use a liquid concentrate, such as Super Sunsheen
Burnishing Fluid.
54
After 1 hour of tumbling, the stamp is clean, burnished and shiny.
55
There is a lot of shrinkage with copprclay. So I needed to sand down the dowel to fit snugly without the use of adhesive. So sand slowly and check the fit as
you remove material.
56
The dowel fits perfectly. Due to the use of the tool,
as it will absorb heat, avoid using glues if possible.
57
Heat up a rod of glass and simply press this
stamp onto the hot glass to stamp the impression. Perfect for production work, logos, and
more! You can also use it to stamp polymer
clay, ceramic clay, other metal clay pieces.
TOOLS NEEDED:
12 business or playing cards
Food dehydrator
Work Surface
250 grit sand paper
Particulate Mask N95
Craft Knife or X-Acto
Kiln with electric controller
Dental or clay sculpting tools
½ inch tall kiln furniture
Plastic (PVC) rolling Pin
Plastic Wrap
Steel pan with lid
Sharpie
Coconut charcoal carbon
Toaster Oven with Oven Gauge
Metal trash can
Gloves in a bottle
Rock tumbler
Badger Balm
Stainless steel shot
tape
Burnishing compound
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Super Sculpey (or any polymer clay)
Parchment paper
Copper Clay (Metal Clay Adventures copprclay is used in
this tutorial)
Water
Wooden dowel
Molten glass
ARTIST BIOGRAPHY
Bronwen Heilman is a full-time studio glass artist and flame-work glass instructor whose work has been exhibited and received awards in numerous juried exhibitions. She is a recipient of the International Glass Bead
Society Presidents Award, won first place in soft marble competition, won best in jewelry at the Sedona Art
show in 2010, among others. Her work is published in 1000 Glass Beads, 500 Beaded Objects, Contemporary
Lampworking, Glass Bead Masters and many others. She is on the Board at Sonoran Glass School in Tucson,
Arizona.
In her recycled materials series of work, she takes her “little red wagon” from her back yard and walk around
the corner to the “dining and entertainment” area of Tucson, where she visits her favorite restaurants and
other establishments to collect used and empty wine bottles. Another block away, she stops by her neighborhood bike shop to pick up the inner tubes that they have saved for her.
When she get back to the studio, she begins to sketch out a rough idea of the structure and how she wants the
piece worn. She uses the inner tubes or steel to create the skeletal essence of the piece. Hand forming until
she obtains her desired shape. She then starts drawing, sketching, and doodling ideas until she feels a sense
of correctness, a feeling of calm. She then makes the glass components and places them where the design
has directed.

make your own hot-glass mold

Transcription

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