West Virginia - ernestartist.org

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Road-trip 2015 – Part Six – Start at West Virginia and
Virginia:
Text and photos © All Rights Reserved by Peter Tanner and
Ernestartist
July 26, 2015:
It is almost light out at 5:45 and the crickets are chirping in harmony
and a distance away I can hear one or two birds, but nothing really loud.
I can also hear drips of morning dew hitting the tent fly from the trees
above, and I feel the need to get up and break camp in awhile because I
don’t want to be stumbling around in the semi dark.
Later, at 6:45 the sky is still dark, but it is with clouds and I’m hoping
not rain for awhile, everything is silent as I walk and ride along Highway
47; this is Sunday so I don’t expect to be too much traffic. I photograph a
stone and log upper house, across from the 100F and near an 800 acre
Boy Scout Camp.
Later, rolling through Freeport unincorporated at 7AM, an engine block
mail box and large mud trucks – Entering Ritchie County after five miles
of Wirt County, Hughes River runs through the area and there is quite a
bit of Civil War history in these parts.
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Next is Cisco village, photos of a Stage House and 47 Auto Repairs and
tire center with some Mac Trucks outside.
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A small oil rig near Oxbow road, 47/20 near MacFarlane Unincorporated,
when I passed into the township it is about 9AM. There are no people out
and very little traffic so the road is deathly silent which is nice for a
change. I pictured an old church with a new edition added to the side,
which is the only church in MacFarlane.
An old Ves-So gas station now
unused.
MacFarlane Community Church.
Bridge No 1220 built in 1931 over the North Fork of Hughes River along
highway 47.
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I stopped at a quaint combination store, bait shop and little restaurant
so I could get something to drink, eat and fill up my water bottle. I talked
with the owner of the establishment, a woman who has owned the place
for over 40 years, and a gal about my age who used to work at a wild bar
across the street. She jokingly says that she has worked in every place in
MacFarlane except the Post office.
We talked about the way things are and the way they used to be and the
way they should be, the vehicle of the area is a pick up truck with ATVs
if you don’t have these things you are out of luck for getting things done
or fitting in. The wild bar closed down a few years ago and the town has
gotten quieter ever since.
A house and shed at the eastern end of MacFarlane, while further east is
an Indian posing under a mail box, followed by an oil rig.
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A footbridge over the Hughes River at the western entrance to Beatrice
unincorporated, then photos of Drilling equipment on trucks – there
seems to be, or used to be some importance to the drilling industry, for
natural gas or for oil, I’m not sure.
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I’m at Smithville, standing at highway 16 junctions and wondering if I
should take Highway 16 to the south like I had planned. It looks like the
highway is going into the middle of nowhere, and I’m already in the
middle of nowhere. To the north in Harrisville there is a fair playing from
July 29 to August 05 but that is way out of my way. I’m headed for
Weston which is about 40 miles to the east and then pick up 33,
perhaps.
An old building falling into disrepair and a vintage gas station marked
Thursday, West Virginia and has a bus stop and mail boxes where the
gas pumps used to be – I then cruised through Burnt House W. Virginia
where I see an interesting photo of cylinder shaped hay bales, then onto
Tanner Road where I am headed for Glenville. An old barn with holes in
the roof and Ivy on the walls, then pass by a church called Tanner
Chapel followed by a Tanner Town which is unincorporated and consists
only of a few houses along the road.
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I got to the highway 5 junction, about fourteen miles from my turn off in
Burnt House. Should I go highway 33, or head on over to Glenville and
then toward I-79 and highway 19 south to highway 60 and on to
Lewisburg where Reithoffers will be playing the state fair. I’m heading
into parts unknown, almighty backspaces that I don’t know, chasing a
dream of rejoining a show I haven’t been around in forty years and will
be weeks too early if I keep going the way that I am.
I don’t know, but it sounds to me like a hopeless situation chasing a pipe
dream and perhaps I need to re-evaluate things. I think I’ll head toward
Lewisburg anyway just to see what’s up then continue aimlessly until
some one wants to hire a hapless old man that has too much experience
and not enough strength to be of any valuable service.
A smokehouse restaurant painted green and yellow inside the town of
Glenville at the turn off to highway 5 toward the interstate that I can’t
travel on because I don’t have a motor on the bike. I found a
MacDonald’s restaurant and stopped for a burger and to work on the
web site photos. I finished part five and uploaded it to the website, then
provided a link on face book.
It is a little bit hot out today, I’ve been sweating cups of water since
about 11AM on – I am set up in a vacant lot just outside of Glenville, on
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my way to Highway 19 and on to Lewisburg. I don’t really like this
camping spot because it is semi out in the open and people will notice. I
just don’t like the idea of camping in the middle of nowhere in the forest.
July 27, 2015:
It is almost 5:30 and it is still dark out and cloudy too. Summer seems to
be on the way out except for the heat. I liked it better I think when it was
light out after 4AM. Because of the clouds, I might just pack the bags in
plastic bags just to be safe, but I will see about how bad the clouds are
when it gets a little lighter.
It seems a little strange that by this time I am usually on the road
pedaling, and it’s a bit frustrating because I can hear the traffic getting
heavier on highway 5 and I still can’t get up and hit the road to struggle
with it.
I got on the road as soon as I could, found a photo op with Duck Run
Cable Suspension Bridge used from 1922 to 1992 and am listed as one
of the heritage places in West Virginia. It spans over 550 feet and over 11
feet wide, spanning the Little Kanawha River.
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As seen from both sides of the river.
Next is Tomlin Service Station and old building in Sand Fork West
Virginia. A footbridge and two barns further down the road near Curry’s
Convenience Store and Pawn at the western edge of Burnsville.
I’ve reached Burnsville and headed over to the Exxon Station that has a
little grocery store inside, one of those multi purpose truck stop things.
Now I have to backtrack slightly to get back onto highway 5 to Sutton.
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Two Red Barns on the eastern side of Burnsville, Then an old building
that looks like it is a school house, but when I spoke to a local he told me
that it was an old Railroad station boarding house that was built in the
late 1800s. Another bit of history just falling to bits on Cogar Drive.
Cogar Drive Building:
Peeking inside through the broken windows at the vintage garbage.
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A footbridge about half a mile east of the Cogar Drive Building.
I made it to the fork in the road where highway 5 ends and made photos
of old buildings foot bridges and butterflies in between – all seems to be
well, although I must admit that even though there are signs that say
share the road, people aren’t as understanding as other places and I’ve
gotten horn blowing and fist shaking quite a bit.
Outside Burns Township, but still in the district along Gem Road which
is also named, highway 5, the name of the game here is raising horses:
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More of Gem Road with old farms and strange decorations beside the
road.
Below are two butterflies; A Great Spangled, Fritillary Butterfly (Speyeria
Cybele- Orange with black Markings) and a female Black Swallowtail
butterfly doing a little dance to share the nectar from Dipsacus Sylvestris
(Teasel).
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At the junction of highway 4 and 19 south there is the township of
Heaters.
I made it to Sutton later and found a McDonalds along the highway to
stop into and do some photos and recharge batteries. The internet
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explorer was acting up so I rebooted and that seemed to take care of the
lack of scrolling problem.
Everything worked okay after I rebooted, I worked until about 2PM and
headed south along highway 4 which is the old highway 19, or the old
turn pike road as it is sometimes called.
Next stop is Sutton, standing at the old turnpike road to head south
down 19 at 2:35PM. I had a hell of a time pushing up that first long hill,
a rural route Post woman stopped and asked me if I’d like a cold drink
and handed me cold water and Iced tea… thanks to the US Postal and
kindness of delivery women everywhere. When I reached the top of the
hill there was a fellow working on his truck, he saw me and invited me
over for a cold beer. We stat for awhile and talked about the road ahead
so I know what to expect, I told him tales of my adventures on this trip.
Next thing is a photo moment at the top, looking to the south at the
valley and a farm, with a little section of Interstate 79 in one corner.
Then as I go along the mountain crest, I start to notice a graveyard of old
machinery and trucks – I photographed some of it, but the main part of
the graveyard was somewhat further east, behind a fence and a whole lot
of trees. I left that one, although I can still picture the trucks sitting
there and rusting away.
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I eventually got to a junction at the top where the road branches off to
some lake and recreational areas and a camp ground that is closed. It
also has the distinction of being exactly in the geographic center of West
Virginia, especially back in the 1800s when it was also the population
center as well – there is a little historical sign there that I pictured just
for good luck.
Then started down the dips and long hill to Tesla and Little Birch where I
am running into problems contemplating the forested area and bear
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country. The fellow I sat and talked with told me about the bears going
through garbage but not to worry about them as they are fearful of
people and don’t bother campers. That’s comforting, I think.
I’m camping a little early today because of the uphill pushing I’ve been
doing – I’m camped in a vacant lot with a collapsed house in a village
called Little Birch unincorporated. There was a guy with his wife calling
out for “Ankle Biter” which could mean me or it could mean a dog. I
assumed he meant a dog and not me, so I just kept quiet. Perhaps it is a
bad idea about camping inside a township; perhaps I’ve pushed my
boundaries too far this time. It is only 5:30 right now, so I have lots of
time to get acclimatized, hopefully the fellow that was calling out for an
ankle biter didn’t mean me, although I can’t see how he missed the tent,
even though it was off the road and behind shrub and weeds.
It is just past 7PM and I have relocated up the hill some two miles or so
away. That idiot in Little Birch unnerved me to say the least. I didn’t
want to wake up in the middle of the night having to move by shotgun.
So I have a nice little campsite beside the road in a flat spot, it has a
back yard with a huge rocky cliff, but not to close to get damage by
falling rocks. I’m happier and feel more like it is my camp now, rather
than sneaking around where I’m not wanted. I only do that when I have
to, in an emergency. There is a house about 50 yards or so up the road, I
heard the people just come home, so if there is a problem, there is
someone close by.
July 28, 2015:
It’s almost 6AM and still dark out, I’m quiet, relaxed and have enjoyed a
very comfortable night beside the road. There was some one early in the
evening who stopped to give me the look over, someone in a red car, but
who cares, I’m in nowhere and no one can say diddly. Now what I need is
a way to enjoy two weeks before Reithoffers gets to the State fair. Perhaps
slow down my route a little, enjoy the things that are along the road
between here and there? I could do some exploring along highway 60? All
those years I hitch hiked through Interstates and wondered, what was
going on along the back roads? What are the people like and what am I
missing? I almost feel silly that I’ve waited for so long to find out.
It only rained a short while last night, the raindrops that did fall on the
tent have long since dried out, and there is only the condensation on the
inside of the tent fly from the morning dew. I continued up the long
damn hill this morning, pushing the bike, it looks cloudy to the east as I
get away from so much tree cover, clear sky to the south. I don’t know
what that means except that it might be hot and there shouldn’t be any
rain. Now I’ve got a long down hill to look forward to.
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At the bottom of the hill there in an unincorporated village called Bays
and it looks as if it rained heavily here because the road is soaked and
everything in the forest on both sides is very wet. Another two miles and
I’m at the New Highway 19, four lane highway junction, Summersville
and points south are beyond. The road is new; there is smooth highway,
plenty of shoulder and interstate-like grades of hills.
I feel so silly when I start wishful thinking. I was in Birch River at a Go
Mart gas station where I was having a cold soda on ice, when I read a
Carnival Fair time poster for a place called Gassaway, West Virginia –
that’s only about 20 miles back the way I came. It has a carnival called
Gambil Amusements and is a fall bash.
I take Highway 19 north about 9 miles to Herold Road which is right at a
turn off before the I-79 connection. From there I take Herold Road past
the Seniors Center near Sutton to highway 4 west turn off on the other
side of a river bridge then left along highway 4 to Gassaway.
Along the way I made only a few photos, a back country road church and
the I-79 underpass along Herold Road.
When I got to the Highway 4 junction I stopped at another Go Mart gas
station for another cold soda because its getting hot out and I need to
keep fluids into me. While I was there, I re-read the same poster as I read
in Birch River… my heart skipped a beat or two when I realized, I see I’ve
made a mistake, the fall bash is for the end of August. How could I mess
that up? How could I not read that it was August and not July?
So, back out to the road, onto highway 4 and onto I-79/19 to sprint
(starting at mile 69) for four miles until highway 19 splits away from I79. I’m not supposed to be on the interstate and I could be ticketed and
fined if I’m caught, but I am not taking any more damn back roads to
avoid this. The whole day of photos is a bust, traveling back and forth
along the same bit of ground three times just made me un-creative.
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So I give it my best shot, riding as fast as I could, and of course, it’s four
miles up hill. I made it and made it back down to the Highway 82 turn
off (with the gas station I originally stopped at) when I started my
diversion and passed it along the dips and hills till I reached the 9 mile
hill through the pass over Powell Mountain over 2,417 feet.
I got about three miles up the hill, perhaps a bit more and was starting
to feel the 90 some degrees of humid heat, when Regina in a silver pick
up truck stopped and asked me if I wanted a ride to Summersville. Of
course I said yes and loaded the bike into the pickup and off we went.
I’m at a McDonalds Restaurant now where they charge you .75 cents for
a cup of water. I’d complain but I’m going to take full advantage of the
water with both of my bottles almost dry. I left McDonalds at about
4:30PM and headed south as quick as I could in the hot sun and searing
humidity, there are plenty of clouds out and I’m hoping that it will be
just for shade from the hot sun and not from the blasting of rain drops.
I found a nice camping spot outside Summersville at the eastern side,
behind some trees, next to a fence that has fallen down. Problem is, there
is also a deer trail that goes through the site. I imagine I’ll have lots of
snorting going on tonight. It isn’t even 6PM yet but I’m bagged from
pushing up all of those damn hills in the heat, and going all that extra
distance – the little ride I had from Regina really did wonders to help
make up for the extra crap I did today. I must have done way over 50
miles and suffered extremely for it.
July 29, 2015:
What to do today? I mean, besides the obvious, Ride, find food and
liquids, photos, write and enjoy the time I have on this earth. I thank the
powers that be for allowing me this time, and for my youth (looking back
over the years I didn’t think that I would make it this far, I thought my
destiny was to live fast, love hard and die young).
I feel so alone this morning, and that’s okay to feel alone because I
realize it is my lot in life, but I miss certain people’s company, family and
friends at various times of need, I’m starting to miss my little piss ant
existence with all of it’s pit falls and hang outs like Starbucks and my
Romano’s Pizza in downtown Vancouver. I miss the safeness I feel, dry
place to hang my hat and the sameness of the days, knowing what each
day will probably hold – what a scary thought.
I would still like to hitch hike across the Southern states, doing photos
along the way – it seems that in my past I’ve tried to do that but failed
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because of one reason or another. I don’t like the idea of giving up my
freedom or the respect I get when I travel by bike, granted these past
days in West Virginia I haven’t gotten the same amount of respect that
I’m used to, but I’m sure it will get better. Perhaps it is the depressed
way of the state? Or as the locals say, this is a coal state and the coal
situation has gone to hell in a hand cart, what do you expect?
Ten PM last night I did a little contemplating, all is well I think – except
the traffic noise and the fact the air is starting to cool and feel like it
might be comfortable. I still haven’t felt the need to cover up yet, I’ve
been lying on the sleeping bags sweating.
It’s almost 5:45AM, and it is still dark out, but the creatures in the forest
behind me haven’t started to wake and stir yet – the crickets and frogs
have stopped and the traffic is at its noisy minimum.
Later, after breaking camp and heading out onto the road, dawn’s early
light is trying to peek over the mountains and the clouds above are
colored with reds and gold’s. As I head south along highway 19 the fog is
trying to rise from the ground and cling to the trees at tree-top level. I’m
starting at the 42 mile mark along the highway of four wide lanes and
plenty of shoulder to ride on.
Photos of Summersville Lake from the highway at about 7:15AM, I think
that the lake is man-made because I see signs ahead for a tourist
destination point of Summersville Dam. There is a Historic sign at the
roadside telling of the Hawks Nest Tunnel disaster which happened in
the early 1930s, where hundreds of mostly black Americans died from an
Acute Silicosis epidemic that arose from some nasty dust they inhaled
during a tunnel digging operation. The powers that be at the time tried to
keep it secret and buried the folks in unmarked graves, but now there is
a graveyard devoted to them. I didn’t bother going down into the gulley to
see it, I have enough graveyard photos at the moment.
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Half way up another long and not-so steep hill I stopped to pull out my
bags to air and dry them out, it is almost 8AM and getting intensely hot.
I’m at the Highway 60 cross roads at this moment, with more
contemplating. I’m at my wits end trying to figure out which way to go:
North, South, East, or West, or go back home. That thought has been
crossing my mind a lot lately, but I don’t want to go back with my tail
tucked between my legs like I’ve failed. That’s not what it’s all about; it’s
about finding me and a new beginning.
So, I started to go east along highway 60, but I ended up about half a
mile past the junction and the shoulder on the road ran out. Okay, that’s
a message that I received loud and clear! I turned around and went back
to the highway 60/19 junction and grabbed the highway 19 south
highway toward Tennessee. At least here there is plenty of shoulder to
ride on, albeit noisy and confusing, and a little drab and boring, but it is
a hell of a lot safer than a busy highway with no shoulder.
Almost 2PM and it is pouring rain, and when I mean pouring, I mean
heavy pelting kind of rain that makes everything wet even by association.
I went to The New River Gorge National River visitor’s center for an
overlook at the Western hemisphere’s longest single arch bridge, along
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with being North America’s second tallest bridge.
And the gorge below.
I also pictured the little Fayetteville Station Bridge which looks like a
Tonka toy down in the gorge below.
Top of the bridge from the Highway, heading into
a thunderstorm.
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Quite the scene in the hot sun, but after that I headed down the road –
that is after a good clean up in the bathrooms at the visitor while I was in
the bathroom I had a conversation about riding and where I was headed
and so on, and the fellow there made a donation of a few dollars, enough
for a coffee or something, then a little while later I was trying to get my
bearings as far as where I am and where I’m going and another fellow,
named Russell stopped to give me a 20 dollar bill. Now that’s what I’m
talking about! Both of those gentlemen have their hearts in the right
place; they didn’t know how close I was to being broke and how good that
donation made me feel. I feel that I’m out of the dumps now and can
carry on south and see what’s there.
Back down the road I go, but before I left the Gas Station, Misty Fish at
Subway in Fayetteville just brought me two lovely slices of Pepperoni
Pizza from Godfathers pizza shop nearby. I stopped into the gas station
in Fayetteville to relax and grab a soda, and then watched the sky open
up and rain come cascading down in a summer afternoon shower that
made me glad I had a spot under an overhang in the gas station.
I stayed long enough to recharge the computer and Ipod, and do some
notes before I hit the road. I’m feeling a little bit more with-it right now
because of all the people suddenly giving me some attention. I left
Fayetteville with my heart singing and hope in the air.
Photos of orange wildflowers along highway 19 in Fayetteville, I think I
will stay on highway 19 for awhile because it goes into Tennessee which
is cool as far as I’m concerned, perhaps my luck will change and I’ll find
work there or in North Carolina. It is 4:15 and getting late, time start
looking out for a campsite, but not too late to be taking just anything.
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A bumble Bee hanging in there.
Butterfly at roadside sucking up nectar from one of the roadside weeds
about four miles north of Good Hope West Virginia.
It is 6:30PM now and I’m done setting up for the evening’s camp site. It is
a little gully that has a bed of woodchips, like they cut down a bunch of
trees and used the chipper to blow into this gully to help fill it. With a
few adjustments I made a level surface for the tent to go on, behind some
bushes so it can’t be seen from the road.
It’s hot and I’m sweating buckets right at the moment, the tent is still in
the sun but within a few minutes the sun should be behind the
mountain. There are sand flies and mosquitoes here, the sand flies really
hurt when they bit, the little buggers like to go for the soft areas like
behind the knees and around the ankles, they will disappear when you
go to swat, then return to the same spot to finish the job when the coast
is clear.
July 30, 2015:
I’m sitting in McDonald’s Restaurant in Beckley, West Virginia, all little
out of sorts because it’s been raining all morning, by all morning, I mean
starting at 4:45 when the light rain turned heavy rain by 5AM. It’s been a
hell of a morning so far and I’ve maybe gone a few miles at most, I’ve
been stopping onto gas stations along highway 19 to keep out of the
worst of the rainfall, but I still have a really wet tent.
The nice job I did yesterday evening to make the ground level by digging
out the side of the bank caused the water to pool under the tent so I had
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a shallow swimming pool by 6AM. That’s when the rain let up for a little
bit and I poked my head out and decided it was time to suffer the loss
and break camp and hit the road over to the Go Mart – I set up under a
huge advertisement sign that towers above me in this little grotto of a
gully, the sign is right next to the Go Mart exit, at Maple Fork Road, one
short exit away from Bradley which is about 4 miles north of Berkley.
When I arrived at the Go Mart, it was still dark out, a young fellow by the
name of Logan told me to grab a couple sandwiches and what ever else I
wanted to eat, and rung it up on his own credit card. Thanks for the
donation Logan, kindness is so hard to come by these days, one needs to
say the words to celebrate it.
I’ve taken the highway 16/19 turn off at mile marker 2, where I can
continue along highway 19 south – the four lane highway I was on, turns
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into Interstate and Toll highway which I’m not allowed to go on with my
bike, not that I would want to anyways.
It’s only 7:35 and already it has started to rain again, at least the
wetness subsided for awhile so I could wring out the water from the tent
and pack the bike up to move on down the road – Fortunately there is a
Sheetz gas station convenience store where I could duck into and wait
out the rain a couple hours – I’m hoping that it will stop soon so I can
brave the elements and get on down the road.
The rain keeps on falling in nasty waves, teasing at one moment by
dribbling, then when you are least expecting it, ravishing the air with
sheets of downpour. I’m inside the Sheetz station, sitting comfortably
and dry while the bike is outside under an overhang, safe from too much
rainfall. I’ve been using my Ipod to check out carnivals in Tennessee and
North Carolina and it seems that there are no close shows that will be
playing anytime soon. There seems to be a lot going on in Memphis and
Knoxville area, but that isn’t till the end of August. The branch in
highway 19 to 19E toward North Carolina is appealing for travel sake; I’d
like to see the Carolinas again just because I haven’t been for 30 years or
more, but the idea of seeing the Tennessee people again is most
appealing. At least I will have a day or three to decide before the fork in
the road.
Berkley Township, I stopped along the way to photograph some old
buildings and signs, including an honest to goodness, still working, Drive
in with vintage neon sign
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- and then found Pinecrest Sanitarium made of bricks that was
established in 1927 to provide facilities for Tuberculosis sufferers then
was opened to the public as a hospital in 1930, which was expanded in
1938 because of the TB epidemic. Now is Jackie Whithrow, long term
care Hospital.
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Yesterday’s Country Bar and Interstate Bridge towering above, in Beaver,
unincorporated, plus some other interesting photos up to L&C Auto
photo by 1:15PM followed by Daniels unincorporated which are back to
back villages. I should be careful how I say villages, because Beaver has
a bunch of heavy duty stores and restaurants like McDonalds and
Walmart.
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Interesting signs in Beaver,
West Virginia.
I stopped into a Dollar General at Daniels unincorporated, bought a
dollar drink and sat outside the store contemplating, sitting quietly
looking at my map. An older fellow and his wife drove up, beeped at me
and handed me 2$ and said, “Bless You,” and drove away with a smile,
because every bit helps.
Then I’m sitting there, looking at my map and this young fellow comes up
and looks at the bike and looks at me, smiles and says, “Are you on a
road trip?” and we got into a pleasant conversation about the road,
carnivals and Reithoffer show and how far away it is and how much time
I have to get there, and the general state of the world. The young guy
doesn’t know what he wants to do with his life yet. I told his to think
about his wildest dream, and then make it happen.
I bared my soul to a 23 year old fellow that came to the doctor’s office
beside the Dollar General to get diagnosed, after he has been
complaining of a huge lump in his throat that just seems to be growing.
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Everyone thinks it is probably throat cancer, but I told him I have a
friend that went through the same thing, get it taken care of early and
you won’t have to worry about it.
Then I told him about how I started with the carnival business with
Reithoffer’s back in 1975 and how I got distracted, side tracked with
other lives to live and how much I tried to get back to the Reithoffer’s but
wasn’t able. That this may be the last time in my life that I’ll have the
chance to make it back and see what is there.
I was in tears when I realized that I was planning on just passing it off as
a pipe dream and that I wasn’t even going to try. I have to try, even if it
means slowing down my trek to a walk.
So, after I finished my drink and after the young fellow bared his soul to
me about his lack of direction in life, we parted, me on the bike, he was
waiting for relatives to pick him up and take him home after his doctor’s
appointment.
So, I’m going as slow as I can, walking up all hills, enjoying the scenery,
and minding my own business, when along comes a guy driving an ATV
unit, pulls up and hands be a bag of bread and donuts and stuff. What
in heaven’s name am I going to do with all of that? It weighs about 5
pounds and is food that will attract bears. I thanked him and blessed
him, people around here seem to like that expression, and went along my
merry little way.
Shady Spring unincorporated next by about 3:15 PM, followed by Cool
Ridge unincorporated by 4PM. I stopped into a little out of the way
grocery store and bought a soda and dropped off the bag of bagels, and
bread to the lady at the store. She seemed to like it and I can’t use so
much stuff. I kept a couple things that I could quickly eat before night
fall, and left knowing that I have passed along the donation.
Fordson Tractor
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Shady Spring – Steam Tractor
It is just past 6PM, I have my tent set up in a nice, dry, safe place, with a
bit of a roof over it and a smashingly good wooden platform under my
buns – I started to walk through a place called Ghent unincorporated a
little after 5PM, and got an idea into my head as I was passing the Ghent
Volunteer Fire Department building at the southern edge of the village –
Why not stop in and ask if there was anyplace they thought that might
be good to pitch a tent where I would be out of the way, safe and not
bothering anyone. The told me that they have a huge field to the side of
the firehouse that belongs the fire department and I’m welcome to pitch a
tent anywhere. So I did, there is a band stand come picnic area that has
a roof over it, open on all sides with a wooden platform, and I asked if it
was okay, the dispatch said yes and that she would let everyone else
know that they have a guest in the outback.
July 31, 2015:
This past night is the most comfortable night I’ve had in awhile; except
for the hardwood floor I have a dry tent that doesn’t seem to smell the
Mississippi River Swamp any more. I have dry bags, a quiet area, feel
safe, a pond nearby that has frogs and swimming, dabbling ducks and
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the night turned brisk which helped in the sleep department – the flood
lights from the fire hall didn’t bother me at all.
Up by 6AM, broke down camp and packed everything on the bike, got
ride of my garbage of the wasted bag of eaten donuts in the fire hall
trash, wished there were someone to thank for the spent night, but
headed south. The traffic is already heavy so I have to be careful, but I’m
spending the day as slowly as I can and will be walking most of the way.
By 6:30 I was quietly thanking Ghent Volunteer Fire department for the
use of their band stand, out into the bright sunshine of the morning
determined to enjoy the day to the best of my efforts.
I can see the West Virginia Turnpike from where I am sitting on the chair
outside the little grocery store between Ghent and Flat Top. A fellow
named Sam stopped to talk for awhile about traveling and being a rich
contractor as he used to be, falling from grace and now is a poor
contractor with too many years under his belt and not enough fun in life
I think. He stopped and reached into his pocket and shared what little he
had left after gas and the grocery store coffee, then continued along his
way. Every little bit helps.
I tried to recall traveling up and down Interstate 77 which is the West
Virginia Turn Pike, but I think it is a relatively new highway, that’s why
they have a toll on the beast, to help pay for the building and upkeep. I
can remember so many Interstate highways hitch hiking up and down
them over the years, recalling that it was the fastest way to get anywhere
in USA, even faster than Greyhound sometimes.
I have to figure how to slow this adventure right down to a bare
minimum so I get there but get there in a week or so instead of a day or
two. I’m not that far away really, if I wanted to, I could arrive there within
two days. Walking is the only answer.
I found an interesting, Salvador Dali kind of yard marked as “Funtastical
Houses” at 3711 highway 19 in south Ghent.
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Pushing into Flat Top at 8:15AM, a photo of the brick building that the
post office here is in, kind of a marker for other stuff. There are apple
trees beside the road so I ate probably more than I should have – photos
up the view of the Turnpike, plus some photos of butterflies on Milkweed
before and after the turnpike, is all Flat Top village district.
The aroma from the Milkweed beside the road is sweet and lovely,
overpowering to the members of the insect world I’m sure.
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The Black butterfly above is possibly a Black Spicebush Swallowtail,
most common in the southeastern USA.
Pushing into Camp Creek unincorporated by 10:30AM, even walking I’m
going too fast it seems. I’ve covered more to this point today than I did for
the whole day yesterday, which is amazing because I’ve slowed to a snail
crawl and am taking breaks all the time, relaxing in the shade beside the
road.
An overwhelming
supply of Tiger Swallowtails on this Milkweed – Camp Creek.
Its just past noon and I’m stalled in a wide, shady turn out on a long hill
I’ve been pushing up – when the few cars that are traveling this moment
disappear, the road will be silent but for the crickets and birds chirping.
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An old barn at Maynard Road turn off, then old house and buildings
north of Spanishburg unincorporated. Bluestone River and reflections,
followed by an old church that has been ransacked and ravaged is beside
the road, has been abandoned and is growing over in parts with ivy.
Near this site on May 1, 1862, the battle of the Henry Clark House
occurred, Lt Col Rutherford B Hayes 23rd Vol. Inf. engaged Confederates
under Col. Walter Jenifer. Captain Richard B. Foley, commander of the
Flat Top Copperheads, “The Eyes and Ears” of area Confederate forces,
was severely wounded in action. Forced to retreat, the Confederates
Burned Princeton.
A whole lot of flags at 20329 Beckley
Road (Highway19).
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These Lonicera Spp, commonly known as
Honeysuckle shrubs are everywhere at roadside bursting with red berries
that human and animal leave strictly alone.
Buildings in Spanishburg and the Bluestone River with reflections.
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I stopped into a little grocery store across from Spanishburg School and
discovered when I walked into the store that most of the stock is gone,
empty and falling apart shelves, and a hell of a mess. The woman
proprietor and her daughter I’m guessing were sitting watching soap
operas on an old CRT Television. There wasn’t much for sale, only coke
and sprite in the cooler and a few chocolate bars and chewing gum. I’m
thinking that this place has fallen on hard times, and I thought I had it
bad.
I’m just passing the southern outskirts of the spread out and business
limited village of Spanishburg and there is a spur road that heads over to
I-77 so now I can place myself on the map: Because there is no such
town as Spanishburg on the map.
Thankfully the day is over with as far as I’m concerned; I walked from
Ghent to the south side of Spanishburg without riding any more than I
had to, only down those long steep hills where riding was easier than
walking.
I found a nice, shady spot to pitch a tent right beside the road, next to a
huge, moss covered boulder with a flat top and flat edge where I leaned
my bike against, so it is lodged between the tent and the rock. It is only a
little past 4:30PM, still lots of time left in the day to get some miles in,
but that’s not the point for the next few days, the point is to log a few
miles each day as I can, take it easy with hopes of rounding off those
days in the first two weeks of August so I can meet with the folks on the
show. I don’t know what to expect when I get there, but I’ll give it my best
shot and see what happens.
Now it is almost 5:30 PM and I’ve caught up with my notes and can
safely relax and perhaps sleep a little of the afternoon away, resting for
tomorrow’s walk. I really need another pair of shoes – those damn cheep
things I bought at Walmart in Indiana are wearing through on the
bottoms.
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August 01, 2015:
Another peaceful night so far, although it is only the wee hours of the
morning as I start writing notes. I find that I’m getting plenty of rest and
sleep as I have slowed my forward momentum, and I have time to really
look at things, watch birds and their habits as they carry out through the
day. I don’t have to constantly keep a watch for potholes, cracks, and
roadside crap that will ruin a tire as I move forward, so this walking,
once I’ve resigned myself to it, and is very good for my spirit.
I can hear dripping on the roof of the tent, but when I went out to check
it isn’t raining and the road is dry. My guess is that the fog has left
condensation in the trees which are shedding moisture and dripping
down on the tent.
It’s still dark out at 5:30, the nights are remarkably longer than when I
started out on the road in May, or seem like it at least. We are getting
ready for the big wobble toward fall equinox, then to winter time solstice
which I’m not looking forward to at all and in fact seems rather scary.
I’m on the road by 6:40AM in semi gloom of fog and daylight; I’m cursed
with liking fog so I looked for fog pictures as interesting as they are,
where ever I find them. I made fog pictures of farm buildings, hay bales
and looking into the sun with trees in fog, all up to the Highway 10
junction. I also found a nice stand of Impatiens Noli-tangere (Jewell Weed,
Common Touch-me-not)
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I pushed through the Highway 10 junction around 7:40 this morning, I
say pushed because I’m taking my time and walking. Besides many fog
and farm photos I made, I also stumbled upon a weird and eerie sight, an
old Chair-O-Plane and Eli Ferris Wheel rusting in a field at Shawnee
Lake, a children’s resort-like place that was started in June of 1926 by a
fellow named, Conley Snidow. According to a local who chose to
comment on the lake, the Rides stopped working about 30 years ago, but
the lake still gets used for Mud Cat fishing derbies.
In the same field as these rides, back in 1783, two children of Mitchell
Clay were killed by Shawnee Indians – Clay was the first settler in the
Mercer County area.
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There is an old Chair-O-Plane there as well, but it doesn’t translate as
well to photos as the wheel does. I did do a chancy thing by hopping over
the fence and going into the field to get closer to the rides, there may be
no trespassing signs up, but this is one of those times where the chance
was worth it.
It’s about 11:15 AM right now, I’ve just sat down in McDonalds
Restaurant in Princeton, West Virginia – a little while ago I was scouring
the streets for yard sales and thrift stores so I could replace my worn out
Walmart sneakers (this is shoe pair number 5 now) and found a pair for
$5 at a flea market along highway 20 in the old downtown core.
There is a Mercer County Fair going on until the end of today, Wade’s
Amusements, but the timing is wrong – I just went through the area and
didn’t see any adds. It isn’t meant to be I guess, and I shouldn’t be going
on some back road back tracking.
A tank and white building along highway 19 South in Princeton: The
M41, Walker Bulldog is a light tank, (Named for Gen. Walton Walker who
died in a jeep accident in Korea in 1950 – introduced in 1951 to operate
with a crew of 4 including a commander, driver, gunner and loader,
having a 76mm main gun and 50 Cal & 7.62 mm machine guns) is next
to the War Museum
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Mercer County Courthouse
41
Almost 1PM now, I’ve killed quite a bit of time at the McDonalds
restaurant and am starting to get antsy for the road again. I’ll do a little
more cleaning up then be gone. I’ll do a little more cleaning up then be
gone. I sent along a happy birthday wish to John, also sent him a photo
of the Ferris wheel which caught on instantly, everyone likes it.
It’s only 5:30 now, but I haven’t made much forward progress, perhaps
another couple miles – I stopped into Walmart and bought a Cesar salad
in a bag, one of those salad kits, I open the bag up, dump all of the goody
contents, then mix it up with a fork – instant bowl and instant salad
meal.
I’m stopped at a place in a gulley about 2 miles from Walmart, which is
at the I-77 north and south junction outside Princeton, or part of
Princeton, another strip mall around an interstate junction. The tent
seems to be okay dry for the time being, although there are plenty of
clouds above and I’m a little worried about rain.
August 02, 2015:
Finally, at 5:30 those dame insects have stopped chirping and the forest
is quiet. The insects are crickets and the insect called Cicadas which are
related to aphids and leafhoppers, and they do get noisy. Even the constant traffic on
highway 460 has abated to a one car every fifteen minutes. Of course, the lumpy ground
didn’t help sleeping matters either.
I’m not looking forward to the trek down the boring old four-lane highway today, but I’m
trying to be optimistic about the photo situation and to try keeping positive about finding
something interesting to shoot, such as, the painted morning sky at 6:30 sunrise over the
mountains – how quickly the light changes and the moment is gone.
Sunrise
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Highway 460 with pockets of fog.
It’s so nice along the highway today, peaceful, and quiet for a Sunday morning,
reminding me of days long ago where I ended up in the middle of nowhere after a hitch
hiking ride that departed along another route leaving me stranded. Even though I didn’t
know where I was, I was comforted by the fact that I was seeing new things, and enjoyed
the sounds and sights of nature around me, feeling the magic of the day at hand.
At the Esso Station in Virginia at the state line (Glen Lyn – Giles County) along 460,
having a pair of Benkin Gas Pumps (Visi Bowl, made in Dayton Ohio) on hand at the
entrance to the grocery store part of the service station. The pumps with glass filling
containers at the top are made by Hyde Park Laboratories so the stamp on the pump face
reads.
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I should only be in Virginia a few hours until I connect with highway 219 and head North
toward Lewisburg.
I remember my first time in Virginia; I was Hitch Hiking north along I-95 out of Florida
when a middle aged fellow in an Olds 88 car stopped and offered me a ride after sunset.
He told me about the Reithoffer’s show in Petersburg Virginia, and to call on a fellow
named Al Wicker to get a job in the popcorn wagon Wicker owned. I recall not really
being impressed with Virginia at first, and I think that was because I was trying to get
from point to point and Virginia state, or at least part of it, was in the way. I also
remember falling in love with the state later as I played Petersburg and met some of the
people and loved one of the women.
This is where all of this carnival envy and travel lust originated from, and I wonder, if I
could turn back the clock that day, and instead of going to the fair grounds in Petersburg,
if I had chosen to go north instead? Where and what would I be doing? I certainly
wouldn’t have the same kind of Carnival envy that I’ve struggled with for so long. Or
was that whole thing part of the plan for me?
Photographs of the Appallatian Power, Glen Lyn Plant and river after
1AM.
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Pushing into Rich Creek, Virginia at 11AM, this is where Highway 219
splits off of 460 – I went to Dollar General for a little while, got some
lunch and continued on my way. While I was there the strangest thing
happened. I was relaxed and having a little bit to eat when a Silverspotted Skipper (Epargyreus Clarus) landed on my read saddle bag and
commenced to lay eggs on it. I let it go for awhile, but then I thought,
“This is no good, this winged creature is wasting its eggs,” So I helped it
decide to go someplace else to do that.
Mutt’s Primitive’s sign with white rooster at Rich Creek northern
outskirts, along highway 219.
45
I was just speaking to an elderly fellow about the state of the economy as
it is right now and how close the similarities with stock market drops as
there was back in the days of the big Depression. I think we are in for
hell on a hand cart if you ask me.
Almost 1PM now and I’m on the final leg of my journey towards
Lewisburg along highway 219. It’s been a painful morning, although the
heat wasn’t bad as the cloud cover has been off and on all morning.
I’m in a little town called Narrow, Virginia which is the next little town
north of Rich Creek. I’m sitting very uncomfortably outside a Family
Dollar Store that has plug ins outside which I’m not sure about whether
it is a kosher thing to do, but I’m plugged in anyways because I need the
juice for my electronics and there isn’t much between here and
Lewisburg which is only 45 miles from here. Just keep in mind that I’m
taking my time and attempting to spread out my trek over the next 5 or
so days, which are going to be a good trick.
Into West Virginia again; Appalachian Christian center with a huge cross
on the hill with a statue of Jesus at the head, then an old house near
Woods Fort area at the extreme northern edge of Peterstown, plus red
barns falling down sort of between Peterstown and Lindside a little after
5PM. Woods Fort defense was erected in 1773, by Captain Michael
Woods, was of importance during Lord Dunmore’s War. Troops from here
were engaged in the Battle of Point Pleasant next year and later were
with George Rogers Clark.
Peterstown and re-entry into West Virginia.
46
Old house near the Woods’ Fort area
Dead Tree near Lindside.
Stop Spitting Tobacco on Barn, Lindside
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Lindside,
The IOOF Lodge No 362, established in 1899.
Gawd, it’s almost 7PM now, I finally found a camping spot beside the
road under some trees. It isn’t the best, and isn’t that well hidden, if you
look closely as you go by on highway 219, you can see a bit of blue as
you go by. It’s in the shade under some trees, beside a little trickle of
water just in case I need to clean something, a little to the north of
Lindside, Unincorporated.
It’s a beautiful area, lots of trees, farms, people, falling down barns, and
pretty scenery, but the fences are all the way close to the road, there is
one farm after another, too many houses, I had two dogs chase me along
the road, trying to bit my leg – I had to stop as one Boxer got too close
and I had to go for the pocket knife I wear on my belt. There was no
where to camp after Peterstown – it was all fence and no trespassing all
the way until I found this place – at least there is no houses within a
hundred yards, although that can be a problem with wildlife – at least no
one saw me go in and pitch my tent, and I hope that I don’t get bothered
in the night by any wildlife, four leg or two leg variety.
As I said, there weren’t any camping spots since Peterstown; I had to get
on my bike a ride because I would have been walking all night to find
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this place – so tomorrow I have to be extra slow, perhaps sleep in a little
or something. I must have ridden almost ten miles so that really tears up
my travel time to the destination.
I am probably going to do some round about adventure along Highway
60 or something just to help a couple more days pass before going into
the State Fairgrounds, although I think I will check the fairgrounds out
anyways, because they will be finished in Clearfield County,
Pennsylvania on the 8th of August and this fair doesn’t start till the 14th,
so there is a bit of a lay over. The trucks will probably start coming into
the lot on the 9th and tenth, with stragglers on the 11th and 12th. That’s
7 to 10 days from now, a long time when you don’t have anywhere to go.
August 03, 2015:
Almost 6AM and the sky is only now starting to change from star
spangled black to a light blue, the insects have stopped making their
infernal racket, but a dog from somewhere close and will not shut up. It
has cooled off somewhat and I’ve had to roll under another sleeping bag,
but it’s a comfortable cool, a refreshing cool and I like it.
I went back to sleep for awhile, but soon, by 6:30, the sounds of the
traffic zooming by close to the tent is starting to get on my nerves and
call me into action to break down the tent.
The first photos of the day are of a sunlit tree and a steel corrugated
roofed barn at 7:20 AM, about 1 mile south of Pete Amos Road, 219/14,
plus an old cabin which are both on the southern edge of Rock Camp
unincorporated, about mile 14 from the entry point of West Virginia –
plus an old barn having Elmer Galford Sheriff painted on a sign, nailed
to the barn front.
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Vintage house falling down in Rock
Camp.
Riffe’s Country Store at Rock Camp – sign and store front, along with a
green moth on the wall, which I tickled to get it to spread its wings out so
I could get a look at the shape of front and back pairs. Next is an old
farm building with corrugated steel roof and round hay bales – about two
miles north of Rock Camp, and near Indian Creek.
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I crossed paths with a 33 year old man sporting a scruffy looking beard,
clothes and a small Knapp sack, who had been walking from Vermont
since sometime in July – he’s finding the area to be totally depressing
and everything in stores over priced. I explained about the depression
and closing of the coal mines in the area and he seemed to understand
why the bad prices and unconcerned vibes. I shared with him a few of
my Little Debbie bars and some stories and talk about the road then we
parted ways, him going south, and me going north.
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There are many farms along the
Seneca Trail (Sometimes known by the Iroqouis as the Warrior Path,
known now as Highway 219) and some of them have been neglected to
the point of falling down, others have been replaced by newer buildings.
I found a nice shady spot along Indian Creek to strip down and wash out
my riding clothes and have a bath in the fresh water. It feels good, the
water isn’t too cold and the shade keeps the flies and sun off my bare
skin, I got all of the road dirt off and then some.
Later, around 11:30, after quenching my poor old body in the stream, I
came across Indian Creek Covered Bridge No 4364, built in 1898, and
restored in 2000. So now I have my important photos of the day, I can
relax and enjoy being a traveler.
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Pushing into Salt Sulphur Springs unincorporated at mile 21, almost
noon, photographing the stone buildings and church, which all look like
they are close to being the original structures built here in the 1800s –
Opened as a resort in 1820, the main building was finished about 1836,
Martin Van Buren, Clay and Calhoun amongst prominent guests,
General Jenkins and other Confederate leaders used the place as a
headquarters during some of their campaigns.
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Greenbrier Limestone which outcrops between Union and Renick, is the
Big Lime of the Driller, Fish-egg like oolotic zones in the Big Lime yield oil
and other natural gas in West Virginia.
The time is a little after 2 in the afternoon, I’m sitting at the side of the
local IGA in Union, West Virginia where I have spent a few dollars on
salad and fixins which will have to pack on the bike somewhere and take
with me toward Lewisburg some 20 miles north of here.
I feel great because I had a bath earlier in Indian Creek around mile 19
along highway 219. I shed all of my clothes except for the underwear and
washed everything in the clear water stream – I don’t know if it is
polluted or not, but it seems to smell okay and that is a good indicator,
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besides, I had little minnow coming up to my legs and nibbling at my
goose bumps, so if a stream supports life, it isn’t too bad off.
The Confederate Soldier Memorial in Union, West Virginia is a tall, white
stone Statue of a Confederate soldier standing, holding a musket on a
small hill top with a white fence leading up to it, from the hill top you can
see a graveyard with hundreds of stone monuments and think that there
is possibly some of the civil war veterans from this area buried there.
“In August 0f 1901 this 20 foot monument with 6 foot statue depicting
typical Confederate soldier was dedicated to the Munroe County men
who served the lost cause. The dedication crowd numbered 10,000 to
hear a speech of Gen. John Echols.”
Of course, before I got to the memorial, I stopped into the town of Union
to a local IGA store and bought some food and drink, then sat for awhile
outside between the ice machine and coke machines, that way I could
plug in and charge up all that I could before moving on.
Problem is, when I left the IGA, I took everything with me except the
Nikon camera battery I had plugged in to a socket above one of the coke
machines. So when I went to the Confederate Soldier Monument at the
northern edge of Union town, and put my camera back, I realized that
the camera battery and charger was missing. I raced back to the IGA
Store in Town in a bit of a panic in a bit of a sprint with the bike, but, it
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was still there right where I left it. I breathed a sigh of relief and
unplugged and put it away in the camera pouch.
Half an Oak Tree
outside of Union along Highway 219.
It is past 6:30 and I’ve found this little place that is barely big enough for
the tent under some shrubs and trees beside the road. I don’t think there
is anything else within miles of here that is suitable, because as I stated
in yesterday’s notes, the farms here are back to back, salt and peppered
with farm houses and fences that come right out the to the road which
means, no place to hide a tent. I was really lucky to find this place; I
almost missed it because the way to it is a slight bit of backtracking
along a guard railing, over an incline and down a weedy path. It seems
okay, not that comfortable, but it is shady in the hot sun and there is the
privacy of being under brush cover. Problem is, this seems to be an
animal trail and I’ve put the tent up in the middle of the trail. We will see
what happens, but there may be some pissed off wildlife tonight,
hopefully nothing too big I can’t handle.
There seems to be a number of medium sized ants that are checking the
tent out, but I didn’t notice any nests around close by, perhaps this is
just on the food run trail and they will leave me alone. I don’t want to
end up with ants all over the tent in the middle of the night like I did in
Tennessee on my last trip in 2011.
It is still in the Pickaway town area I think, unless it is some other little
unincorporated town along 219 between Pickaway and Lewisburg – I’m
only about 14 miles from Lewisburg now, that’s why I have not dilly
dallied about finding a camping spot because I think from here on in it is
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houses and farms in a bigger way with even less of a chance of camping
spots.
Text and photos © All Rights Reserved by Peter Tanner and
Ernestartist