Top 10 Romantic Restaurants in Chile

Transcription

adam & lucy
Top 10 Romantic Restaurants in Chile
Vina Del Mar, Santiago, Valparaiso, 7 Days
Table of contents:
Guide Description 2
My List 3
Vina Del Mar Snapshot 7
Santiago Snapshot 12
Valparaiso Snapshot 22
1
Guide Description
2
My List
contact:
tel: 02-2059709
http://www.cafelabicicleta.cl/
location:
Simón Bolivar 3742
Santiago Región
Metropolitana
hours:
Mon 6 PM-10 PM, TuesSat 10 AM-10 PM, Sun 10
AM-1:30 PM
contact:
tel: 2/222-4517
location:
Baron Pierre De Coubertin 39
Santiago RM
hours:
Mon-Sat 12:30-3:30pm and
7:30-10:30pm (Fri-Sat until
midnight)
1 La Bicicleta
DESCRIPTION: Owners and propietors Romina and Beto
have created a cozy café that feels like being at a good friend's
house,  if your good friend was a good baker and could
offer you two different types of espresso, either stovetop or
machine-made, depending on how strong you like it.
This surprising cafe, which is right off the corner of Diagonal
Oriente and Simón Bolivar is in Ñuñoa, a little-touristed part
of the city with stately old homes and trees and a burgeoning
nightlife surrounding the plaza. Café La Bicicleta is smoke
free, has WiFi, offers both vegetarian and meat soups and
sandwiches, and during the month of August (the coldest
month), hosts an all-you-can-eat soup Saturday (cuchara libre)
for those who pack a hearty appetite. They also host a book
exchange and have installed a dance floor in the back room
where salsa and cueca (the Chilean national dance) are taught
for a nominal fee (see website for details on schedule and
pricing)
How to get there: Walk about 10 minutes from either the Plaza
Egaña or Simón Bolivar metro stations on the blue line, or ride
your bike, which you can store inside while you eat.
© NileGuide
editor
2 Japón
DESCRIPTION: This is one of Santiago's top restaurants for
sushi, and the most typically Japanese, including a tatami
seating area where you store your shoes in a little cupboard.
The food is fresh, and there are more varieties of hard-to-find
fish here, though typically in Chile most of the sushi fish is
salmon, tuna or another whitefish.
It's also Santiago's oldest Japanese restaurant, and dates back
to a atime when not everyone and their brother were selling
sushi out of a storefront. The food is good, and includes udon
soups and other warming and tasty dishes alongside the sushi.
Japón is frequented by Japanese visitors, who sometimes
stay in the Japanese hotel across the way. The restaurant is
conveniently located just a few blocks from the Baquedano
metro which serves the green and red lines. © NileGuide
via bearshapedsphere
3
My List - continued...
contact:
tel: +56 2 738 0288
fax: +56 2 735 8035
location:
Constitución 111
Santiago 9
hours:
Mo to Sa from 01:00 PM
to 04:30 PM,Mo to Sa from
07:30 PM to 12:00 AM
contact:
tel: 664-3048
www.operacatedral.cl
location:
Santiago
hours:
Mon-Wed 12:30pm-2am;
Thurs-Sat 12:30pm-5am
contact:
tel: 32/269-0084
location:
1 Norte 191-A
Vina del Mar
hours:
Tues-Sun 1-3:30pm and 8pmmidnight
contact:
tel: 32/268-7755
location:
Av. Peru 100
3 Azul Profundo
DESCRIPTION: Cutesy but tasty Azul Profundo is in the
"bohemian" section of Santiago, in Bellavista, just a showr
walk up the street Constitucion from the Baquedano Metro,
and a few steps beyond the famous Patio Bellavista with its
shopping, live music and restaurant options. Azul Profundo's
menu is based on fish dishes where you select the sauce, and
can choose from French or other European style sauces such
as one made with capers, or Chilean favorites. The cute part of
the restaurant comes from its nautical motif, including a siren,
nets and other sea-based items. Caldo de congrio (conger eel
soup) is a favorite, and people swear by the ceviche. There are
lunch specials for the business set on work days, with a main
course, dessert and coffee. Wine is available by the glass or by
the bottle. 
© NileGuide User
pixculture
4 Opera & Catedral
DESCRIPTION: Wildly popular with a young artistic crowd, Opera and Catedral were the
forerunners in bringing sophistication and delicacy to the downtown dining experience. Opera is a
polished, fine-dining establishment, with exposed-brick walls, contemporary paintings, and white
linen tablecloths, and it is small enough to require reservations far in advance. It pays homage to
French cuisine, serving fabulous dishes such as a delicate foie gras, chicken breast poached in
broth and served with truffles, and a "tasting" of five kinds of crème brûlée. Like the name says, this
is an ideal place for a post-opera dinner. Upstairs at inexpensive Catedral, the look is minimalist,
with gun-battle-gray walls, wicker chairs, and a couple of leather couches that are difficult to nab
unless you arrive before 6pm. Really, you'll want to get here before the 9pm mob arrives -- this
place is smoking hot and crazy-busy most nights. There is also an outdoor terrace for summer
evenings. Cathedral serves modern takes on Chilean classics, with a few Asian-influenced dishes,
gourmet sandwiches, and a very tasty crudo, or steak tartare. © Frommer's
5 La Ciboulette
DESCRIPTION: An altogether unwelcoming facade keeps tourists away from this tiny restaurant,
but La Ciboulette is a local favorite and has won various culinary awards for its home-style,
Belgian-influenced cuisine prepared by old fashioned restaurateurs who are passionate about the
delicate balance of each dish; ask for a substitution at your peril. The chalkboard menu changes
seasonally so that every element is very fresh, and their wine list is quite good. Each dish is
flavorful and transcends the homely quality of a traditional, local Belgian bistro; snails are drenched
in a rich sauce of Camembert, almonds, and Noilly Prat while the rib-eye steak is doused with a
light oriental pepper sauce. For dessert, try the juicy strawberries laced with pepper and served
with homemade ice cream. © Frommer's
6 Enjoy del Mar
DESCRIPTION: The best alfresco dining venue in Viña is on Enjoy del Mar's open-air deck, with
the sea breeze in your face and a cold glass of chardonnay in your hand. The restaurant is part
of the Hotel del Mar, but it is located across the street on the beach. The few main courses on
4
Vina del Mar
hours:
Daily 9am-1am (Thurs-Sat
until 3 or 4am)
contact:
tel: 32/297-5790
location:
Av. San Martín 180
Vina del Mar
hours:
Daily 12:30-3:30pm and
8-11pm (Sat-Sun until 1am)
contact:
tel: 32/249-8192
location:
Papudi 541
Valparaiso
hours:
Lunch Tues-Sun 1-4pm;
dinner Thurs-Sat 8:30pmmidnight
contact:
tel: 32/236-5307
www.cafeturri.cl
location:
Calle Templeman 147
Valparaiso
hours:
Daily 10am-midnight
the menu strive for gourmet caliber, but it never quite achieves that; instead, the best bet here is
their barbecue, which allows for a choice of steak, chicken, or ribs, and includes soup, a salad bar,
wine, or beer and dessert, for a very reasonable $14 (£9) per person. There are also sandwiches,
burgers, and an ice cream parlor. The restaurant is always open, from the early morning until the
wee hours, and they host live music on weekends. © Frommer's
7 Divino Pecado
DESCRIPTION: This is hands-down my favorite restaurant in Viña del Mar because it combines all
the elements of an enjoyable dining experience: owner-attended, a pleasant waitstaff, delectable
fresh pastas and seafood, and a trattoria-style dining area that's cheery during the day, and
romantic at night. For an aperitif, order a pisco sour -- this restaurant is known for its delicious
Peruvian variety. Also, the wine list is extensive and offers excellent value for the price. Don't
expect traditional Italian home-style cooking; each dish promises to be a taste sensation with
interesting and unusual combinations of traditional Italian ingredients infused with ethnic herbs and
spices and some modern European twists. "Black" raviolis are made with calamari ink and stuffed
with curried shrimp, while the fettuccine with lamb is garnished with aromatic clumps of rosemary.
Divino Pecado specializes in specialty fish such as sole, the delicate mero (grouper), and Easter
Island tuna, and there are meats such as filet mignon. Pastas here are served very al dente, so let
your waiter know if you'd like your noodles cooked some other way. © Frommer's
8 Concepción
DESCRIPTION: The 8 tables at this sleek new restaurant sit in one of the prettiest gardens in
the city. With its enviable port views, and a something-for-everyone menu, it's a wonderfully
relaxing place to while away a sunny afternoon or enjoy a romantic dinner. The mood hits the right
note between casual and elegant, with pristine white tablecloths and conscientious staff but an
informal ambience. The bread service, which includes doughy home-baked bread served with herbinfused olive oil and tapenade, is a treat in itself. The eclectic menu is slanted toward seafood,
with excellent ceviche and sashimi on order, along with large green salads dressed with hunks of
goat cheese, olives, and pearly shrimps. Other standout items are the conger filet served atop an
eggplant strudel; the grilled sea bass with polenta; and the king crab ravioli, a perennial favorite
in Valparaíso. Save room for the delicious chocolate desserts. The only downside with this place
is that the service can be so laid back that you can easily end up waiting an hour for your meal to
arrive. © Frommer's
9 Café Turri
DESCRIPTION: Valparaíso's emblematic restaurant has -- at last! -- changed ownership, and the
nasty waiters, fluorescent lights, and awful food are thankfully a thing of the past. This restaurant
has always reigned as the city's best spot for alfresco dining, and it's well located at the top of
the La Concepción funicular and close to other points of interest. The new owners (a French/
Chilean pair who once owned La Fourchette in Viña) have preserved the restaurant's lovely antique
interiors, but they've given them a contemporary update. They've also hired a cheery waitstaff.
That said, while the food is night-and-day better than before, it still isn't as good as the fare at such
places as Pasta e Vino. The French-influenced fare includes duck confit, steak tartare, grilled fish
and meats, salads, and appetizers such as grilled Camembert cheese. At press time, the owners
planned to open a wine/tapas bar on the ground floor, serving even super premium wine by the
glass. For a primo table, book at least a day ahead on weekends. © Frommer's
5
contact:
tel: 2/657-3950
www.hotelcasahigueras.cl
location:
Higueras 133
Valparaiso
hours:
Daily 1-4pm; 8pm-midnight
10 Montealegre
DESCRIPTION: Casa Higueras' elegant restaurant not only has a wonderful view, especially at
night as the cruise ships pull out of the bay and the hillside is transformed into a dazzling cascade
of twinkling lights, but it also has the advantage of being open on Sundays and Mondays when
most other places are closed. The short menu offers some interesting flavor combinations; the
tender venison loin is encrusted with olives, and slivers of foie gras are perched atop silky veal.
For an appetizer, you might try the barnacle salad or the king crab casserole, a rich confection of
cream, tomato, and small flakes of crab. The pasta dishes, especially the goat cheese and pancetta
tortellini, are tasty and are best as a shared appetizer as the servings are insubstantial for a main
course. In fact, most of the artfully presented dishes here are small compared to other restaurants
of this caliber. The fig cheesecake and the lúcuma mousse make for great desserts, if you're still
hungry after the main course. Service is friendly and attentive and the mood very conducive to
winding down. © Frommer's
6
Vina Del Mar Snapshot
Local Info
Like many other Chilean coastal towns and
cities, Viña del Mar consists of two areas:
one of winding streets and houses clinging
precariously to the hills, while the other,
lying between the hills and the sea, is built
along the strict formality of the colonial era
grid plan. Viña, often called the tourism
capital of Chile, has an area of 172 square
kilometers and just over 300 thousand
inhabitants.
Cerro Castillo(Castle Hill)
The Cerro Castillo(Castle Hill) of Viña del
Mar has been the home of the Presidential
summer residence since 1931. Today,
in this area, you can find the dramatic,
seaside Castillo Wulff, now the Museum
of Maritime Culture. Cerro Castillo is also
where you can find the headquarters of the
Chilean uniformed police. Also in the area
is one of the city’s main beaches, Playa
Caleta Abarca.
Quinta Vergara
Quinta Vergara is where the city’s main
square, Plaza Vergara, is located,
and where you will find the Teatro
Municipal(Municipal Theater) and the
quaint Victorias, or horse drawn carriages,
that await tourists who are interested in
a different way of touring the city. Also in
the Quinta Vergara area is the Vergara
Amphitheater, home of the Viña del Mar
International Song Festival, and the Palacio
Vergara, the former home of the founder
of Viña del Mar. Also here is the Parque
Quinta Vergara(Quinta Vergara Park) and
the Acapulco, Mirasol and Los Marineros
beaches, among others.
Reñaca
There are two kilometers of beaches in
the Reñaca district, which has recently
become the new focus of holiday activities,
with a wide selection of hotels, shopping
centers, restaurants and discotheques.
Only thirty years ago all this land was
sand dune and forest, but today it is an
important tourist and residential area with
new neighborhoods, such as El Jardín
del Mar, Las Golondrinas and Los Pinos,
sprouting up almost overnight.
Concón
To the north of the city is this gastronomic
district with restaurants that range from
the unassuming Don Chicho to thetres
chic seafood eatery Stella Maris. Also
in the north of the city, facing the mighty
Pacific Ocean that rages against the
coastal rocks are the popular Cochoa
and Lilenes beaches, part of the newlycreated Concón district. Between these
two beaches, a visitor to the city will find
many places of interest, such as Mirador
Cochoa, la Roca de Lobos Marinos with
sea lions basking in the mid-afternoon sun
and a spectacular rock outcrop called the
Oceanic rock. This coastal stretch finishes
in Higuerillas Cove where the exclusive
Yacht Club has its home, and the popular
Playa Negra and Playa Amarilla are to be
found. Narrow strips of the original dunes
still remain, down which local children slide
on makeshift sand-toboggans.
City Center
The center is formed in the shape of a
rectangle, and bounded by the railway
line in the south and the Marga Marga
Estuary in the north. Towards the east
the Plaza José Francisco Vergara can be
found, and to the west the wooded, gently
rolling Castle Hill. These are the limits of
the main financial and shopping area in
the city, whose main street is the Avenida
Valparaíso.
The city is built on the grid system—
locally called"de los nortes"—typical of
colonial towns, with Avenida Libertad as
its main axis. On the left of the Avenue
six streets head off to the west, on the
right seven head east. From north to south
there are another fifteen streets. This is
one of the most sought after residential
neighborhoods, with houses that have the
spirit of the past stamped firmly in their
architecture. Today, many of what used to
be private dwellings are now restaurants
and pubs.
Viña del Mar has the slow pace of a
provincial town. It is not uncommon to see
the inhabitants stop whatever it is they
are doing at around midday to have a cup
of coffee in one of the many traditional
cafeterias to be found here. At two in the
afternoon, all of the local banks close for
the day, and many stores shut for a siesta
that lasts until 4:30. When they reopen,
however, they serve customers late into the
evening.
©
History
Before the arrival of the
Spanishconquistadores, the inhabitants of
central Chile were an indigenous people
known as theChangos, who called the
area now occupied by Viña del MarPeuco,
which meant, “here, there is water.” With
the coming of the Europeans, the land
was transformed and by 1580 the whole
area had become anencomienda, or estate
granted to a conquistador. Vineyards were
planted here, hence the name Viña del
Mar,"vines by the sea."
A century later, these same lands were
divided into two: south of the Marga-Marga
estuary up to Barón Hill was known as “The
Homestead of the Seven Sisters,” while the
area northwards, all the way to Concón,
retained the original name.
The following century saw many rich
Portuguese merchants sailing into the bay
of Valparaíso. One of these was Francisco
Álvares, who was so enchanted by this new
land that he bought it, installing his estate
house in the area that is now the Quinta
Vergara park. His wife, Dolores Pérez, was
a great lover of plants and transformed the
surrounding countryside with gardens and
orchards. In the mid-nineteenth century,
these were greatly added to by their son
who brought back new species from his
voyages in Australia and the Far East.
Such pastoral pursuits were probably
less important for the development of the
city, however, than another event that
took place during the same period, the
7
Vina Del Mar Snapshot continued
arrival of the railway linking Valparaiso to
the central valley region. With this new
communication, the city grew rapidly and
prospered, building the Viña del Mar train
station. Meanwhile, José Francisco Vergara
Etchevers, the assistant engineer on the
project and by marriage a large landowner
in the city, went on to help develop the
town in many other ways. He ceded lands
to be used for the water supply, a school,
the cemetery and a slaughterhouse. He
sold the property along the tracks which
later became Álvares and Viana Streets
and put up mansions that looked on to the
present-day Avenida Valparaíso. Vergara
later moved on to politics, becoming the
Minister of the Interior in the government
of Domingo Santa María and War Minister
under Aníbal Pinto. He also fought in the
War of the Pacific.
The railway had a profound effect
on the city. The doctor Teodoro Von
Scroeders encouraged the building of
a new station to give people access to
thermal baths nearby. Shroeders also
planned the development of the Castillo
Hill neighborhood. Along the train route,
ever more neighborhoods were springing
up, including Recreo in 1894, whose
name, Spanish for recreation, alludes to
the custom of local inhabitants of passing
their leisure time looking out at the sea.
Around this period two city dignitaries by
the names of Luis Barros Borgoño and
Alfredo Azancot(architects responsible for
the Rioja and Carrasco Palaces), undertook
the redevelopment of the Recreo shoreline,
filling in the original reefs and replacing
them with a beach and creating one of the
most popular resorts along the coastline.
New stops were also created for the trains
at Chorrillos and El Salto, the latter being
named after a nearby waterfall. Neighboring
landowner and politician Benjamín Vicuña
Mackena then took his part in the creation
of the present day Garden City. It was
Mackena's influence that first led to Viña
del Mar being developed as a seaside
holiday resort. He proposed the creation of
plazas and parks, of more attention put into
landscaping, of new and more flamboyant
hotels to emphasize the town's recreational
credentials. These changes were highly
successful, both with the inhabitants of
Viña del Mar, as well as people living in the
surrounding area. The Caleta Abarca cove
area was the sector initially chosen for this
of development.
By 1878, the growth in the population had
spurred the need for establishing some
form of municipal authority. Permission
to organize such a body was requested
from the Governor of Valparaíso, who
took a year to reply in the affirmative. This
heralded a golden period in the history of
Viña del Mar; new industries and public
institutions made their appearance, and
many new businesses opened on Libertad
Avenue. In part, this was also the result
of the economic success being enjoyed
by merchants in neighboring and then
extremely prosperous Valparaíso.
Local industry, led by the sugar refinery,
demanded modernization, which led to the
installment of electric light in 1882, giving
Viña del Mar a status enjoyed by a highly
select club of cities around the world. This
was the same year Paris was electrified.
In 1889, José Francisco Vergara died. His
lands were divided among his children,
with his daughter Blanca inheriting
everything south of the Marga-Marga,
and Salvador, his son, taking the northern
territories, which he started to urbanize
in 1892. The major earthquake of 1906
destroyed much of the city, and a huge
task of reconstruction was undertaken by
the local inhabitants. It was during that
period that such ostentatious projects as
the Vergara and Carrasco Palaces, the
Délano mansion(that was to become the
Fonck Museum), and Wulff Castle were
undertaken. By the 1930s, Viña del Mar
was deemed so important that even the
federal government stepped in to help,
partly financing the Hotel O'Higgins and
Municipal Theatre in Plaza Vergara, as well
as the Presidential Palace, the Municipal
Casino, Salinas resort, and an urbanization
program for the whole stretch of coastline
between Reñaca and Concón.
By then, Avenida Valparaíso was
completely built-up, with a preponderance
of large, neo-classical buildings, modeled
after European architecture with its
dislike, at the time, for the excesses of
baroque. This tendency was reinforced
by European immigrants who built in the
manner of their homelands using easily
obtainable materials like wood. Still today,
it is the English colonial and neo-gothic
architectural styles that predominate in Viña
del Mar.
During the 1950s, the Caleta Abarca resort
took shape, as did the Marina and Perú
Avenues. The 60s and 70s also saw the
city's face change, with special emphasis
placed on the development of the Reñaca
district, with the construction of numerous
hotels and other tourist infrastructure that
completely transformed this previously
industrial sector. And so it was that in 126
years, a coastal vineyard became the
modern"Vines by the Sea" tourist resort.
©
Hotel Insights
Although a relatively new city, Viña del Mar
is a highly developed tourist center with
a great variety of options to choose from
when it comes to accommodation. The bulk
of the city’s accommodations are found
mainly in the City Center and the Quinta
Vergara neighborhoods. Whatever your
interests and needs, you will always find
something to your liking.
City Center
To begin with, try the city center, the vital
pulsating heart of activity for both locals and
tourists. If you are here on a budget, you
might try the Hotel Hispano, which offers a
more economic option, while maintaining
a high standard even during the summer
peak season. Such is the case of the Hotel
de Viña and Rokamar. Also on the same
road, on the corner of Ecuador street, you
might choose to spend a relaxing couple
of days in the most modern and expensive
hotel in the area, the Marina del Rey.
Further away, and cheaper, is the Genross
Hotel, found in an enchanting neighborhood
called Agua Santa. If you are a student or
a backpacker on a tight budget, this is the
place for you.
8
Quinta Vergara
The most emblematic hotel in the area
is the O'Higgins, which in the height of
summer is home to many national and
international artists as well as other
illustrious guests who come to participate
in or watch the Viña International Song
Contest. Across the Viña del Mar estuary,
towards the flat northern part of the city
around Libertad and San Martín Avenues,
you can marvel at the modern, international
aspect of the city. Despite its recent
development, this is a very peaceful area,
ideal for families or for those just looking for
peace and quiet. It is also a good choice if
you want to be near all the excitement of
the city center without all the noise. In the
medium price range, the Hotel Monterilla
near the casino and the gastronomic
heartland of the city is a good option. It is
quite small, with a friendly atmosphere,
and was completely refurbished from its
previous incarnation as a private house.
All around the casino, within the radius
of about five blocks, you will find many
similarly welcoming hotels.
Going up San Martin Avenue is one of the
most modern establishments in Viña del
Mar, the Ankara. If money is no object, you
will be able to enjoy the best service on
offer here, as well as Jacuzzis, a pub and a
restaurant. If you prefer to be more central,
and closer to commerce and transport,
you can go east along Avenida Libertad.
A moderately priced hotel that offers good
service is the Crown Royal Hotel, near
shopping malls, the beach, the restaurant
zone, as well as artistic events held at the
local Carrasco Palace.
©
Restaurants Insights
Most of the best restaurants in Viña del Mar
can be found in three neighborhoods:
Quinta Vergara
The Quinta Vergara and Avenida San
Martín is the most important area in the city
for fine dining. All along the street visitors
will find restaurants featuring a diversity of
menus and ambience. Because of fierce
competition, restaurants have sought to
attract the choosy diner with well-planned
decor and original cuisine emphasizing
creative house specialties. Most of these
establishments feature domestic wines
made from grapes produced in the rich
volcanic soils of Chile.
Avowed carnivores might opt for meats on
a skewer in Guris Brasileiros and Spanish
food lovers for Basko Delicias del Mar. If
in need of a pizza, go to Diego's. Fish and
shellfish are elegantly served in Fornoni,
while Tex-Mex cuisine can be had at
Santa Fe. Nearby you will find the recently
inaugurated Rincón Austriaco. Pastas
and all things Italian can be had in Don
Giovanni and grilled and skewered meats
in La Parrilla El Gaucho. Sub Terras is an
interesting pub in the area.
Concón
Running along the coast, Avenida Borgoño
joins Reñaca with Concón. Dedicated
mainly to fish and shellfish, it has recently
become the second gastronomic center
of the city. Here there are many local
specialties, served in the traditional
Chilean way, including the famouspescado
frito(fish fried in batter),machas a la
parmesana(shellfish topped with melted
cheese) andcaldillos(fish soups). You will
also find more elaborate fish and shellfish
dishes that give local ingredients a more
international touch.
Within the group of restaurants serving
mainly Chilean dishes are Don Chicho
and El Albatros. In Higuerillas, more to the
north, there are Don Enrique and La Perla
del Pacífico.
One advantage of this area is the
spectacular view offered from every
restaurant of the untamed and sometimes
raging ocean. Many of the restaurants,
especially the more elegant ones, sit
precariously right on the rocks and are
constantly splashed by the foaming
waves. A great part of the more rustic
establishments can be found in the
Higuerillas Cove area.
City Center
This area has been gradually becoming a
very good alternative for lunch or dinner.
To keep up with the competition, these
restaurants are price conscious, and you
will often get a cheaper meal here than
elsewhere. The establishments themselves
are often smaller, creating a more intimate
and less formal atmosphere.
If in need of Chinese, try Pau-San. For a
taste of the British Empire, Café Big Ben
is a tea room, restaurant and pub. For
traditional Viña seafood, there is Cafetería
Samoiedo.
©
Nightlife Insights
Viña del Mar was, from its very beginnings,
the preferred vacation spot for the wealthy
families who had made their fortunes
as shipping merchants in neighboring
Valparaíso, or as owners of the saltpeter
mines in the north of the country. It was
these families that spurred the creation of
museums, art galleries and other places of
art and entertainment in the city.
Museums
The School of Fine Arts shares its building,
appropriately enough, with the Fine Arts
Museum, that has a permanent display of
works by Chilean and international painters
from the 19th and 20th Centuries.
Back in the central part of the city, following
Libertad Avenue, there are various points
of interest from a cultural point of view. A
block further up is the Carrasco Palace,
which accommodates a library and the
city's cultural center, the latter having
hosted exhibitions of such luminaries as
Miró and Picasso. Close to the Palace are
the Fonck Foundation's Archaeological
Museum dedicated to findings on Easter
Island.
The Rioja Palace on Avenida Quillota often
presents shows and exhibitions created
by the cultural departments of regional
universities, such as the University of
Playa Ancha, which specializes in sciences
and education. Within the Palace there
is also a small, informal arts cinema and
9
café. Following the coast to another part
of Viña, you can find the Wulff Castle with
a permanent exhibition of local maritime
history, and objects once belonging to the
writer Salvador Reyes.
Outdoors& Sporting Activities
The Sausalito Lagoon park on the eastern
side of Viña del Mar, a haven for waterskiing, rowing and other water-sports, is
venue for the independence celebrations in
September. Close to Sausalito and going
down along Avenida Los Castaños, is the
Sporting Club race-track, which holds an
annual Derby. The Club's central oval is
also used for pop concerts by national and
international Latin stars.
The principal beaches of Viña del Mar have
their own entertainment to offer, including
the World Sand Castle Championships,
an impressive display of ephemeral
architecture. Some of these beaches
include Playa Reñaca and Playa Salinas.
Further north, in June, you can witness
the festival of San Pedro in Caleta
Higuerillas. The highlight of this occasion
is a procession of fishing boats, colorfully
decorated, with an image of the town's
patron saint prominently on display in
the leading vessel. To the north, in the
parks of Muelle Vergara, there are circus
performers.
Theater
In the city center, facing Plaza Vergara,
is the ornate Teatro Municipal(Municipal
Theater), a grandiose construction that was
partly funded by the federal government in
the 1930s. Here, a variety of cultural events
take place such as classical music concerts
organized by the music departments of
regional universities, the Educational
Video Festival in July, and the International
Cinema Festival in October. Touring theater
companies occasionally take the stage,
as do dance troupes offering a range of
classical and folk performances. There are
even classical music contests, such as that
organized by the Luis Sigall Institute every
November, and featuring performers of a
specific instrument.
©
Things to Do Insights
Plaza Colombia
The charming Plaza Colombia is a
charming plaza, especially great for
children, located in the main restaurant
area of the city, where you can start your
tour off with a delicious meal at Rincón
Austríaco. Continuing along the same
street, you will reach the local Casino. If
you are in a gambling mood, you can try
flinging your hard-earned pesos at the fruit
machines or the roulette table, but don't get
carried away. Now that your pockets are
almost empty,(or full, depending on your
luck) leave the Casino and walk south to
Valparaíso Avenue. The commercial center
of the city by day, at night it transforms into
a huge street theater with buskers, clowns,
mimes and other performers. Stroll a while
through the crowds and enjoy the shows.
From here, you can take a walk down to
the coast to one of the popular beaches in
the area, like Playa Marisol and Playa Los
Marineros.
Reloj de Flores(Flower Clock)
Start the tour at the famous Reloj de
Flores(Flower Clock), with its multi-colored
floral decorations centered around a huge
time-piece donated by Switzerland in 1962
during the world cup of soccer held in Chile
that year. Nearby is Caleta Abarca cove,
a rocky section of coastline, battered by
foaming waves. Moving north along the
coast, you will see on the right-hand side
the old Ross Palace, which now houses the
Arabic Union Club. Depending on the time
of day, you can stop there for refreshments.
A bit further up along the coast there is a
wonderful vantage point to stop and take in
the ocean next to Wulff Castle. The castle is
home to the Maritime Museum, open every
day except Monday. Just inland from here
can be seen the Palacio Presidencial, the
President's official summer house, perched
on top of Castillo Hill with a magnificent
garden running down the hillside. If the flag
is raised, President Lagos is at home.
If you are feeling tired after so much
walking, maybe it is time to abandon the
pedestrian world for a while, and take a
Victoria. These are horse-drawn carriages
which regularly leave and return to Plaza
Vergara, and their prices can often be
negotiated with the driver.
Playa Los Marineros
This tour is perfect for those who like to
feel the caress of a fresh sea breeze on
the face. Start at the stretch of beach
called Los Marineros(the Sailors). Los
Marineros comes to an end by a large
rock, on the other side of which begins
Borgoño Avenue and Salinas beach. Small
and protected from the coastal winds by
a large containment wall, this is a good
place for families looking for somewhere
safe to go swimming with the children. A
couple kilometers further on, you will find
the Sea Lion Promontory. You can spend
hours watching these fascinating beasts, so
sluggish on land, yet so adept in the water,
their mournful howling drifting up from the
rocks and waves.
After a long stretch of rocky, beach-less
coastline, the huge Oceanic Rock looms
up into the sky. Even though it has been
declared a Nature Sanctuary, the place
unfortunately looks dirty and unkempt,
thanks to the litter left behind by many of its
visitors. In Chile, the culture of respecting
and protecting the environment is still in
its infancy. Taking a last look back towards
Viña del Mar and Valparaíso, before they
disappear behind the rocks, carry on northbound.
©
Travel Tips
Getting there:
By Air:
Travelers can access Viña del Mar through
Santiago's airports, specifically
Arturo Merino Benitez International
Airport(SCL)
http://www.aeropuertosantiago.cl
10
SCL is located 60 kilometers(37 miles)
southeast of Viña del Mar.
Airlines serving the airport include:
Air Canada( +56 2 690 1115/
www.aircanada.com)
Aerolineas Argentinas,( +56 2 690 1030/
www.aerolinas.com)
Renting a car is a good way to explore Viña
del Mar and the surrounding area. Cars
can be rented from Viña del Mar or nearby
capital city Valpariso. Rental companies in
the city include:
Verschae,(Libertad Avenue 1045 Tel:+56 32
267300-+56 32 682372)
Taxis
Taxi’s are fairly reasonably priced, however
beware of taxi drivers who take circuitous
routes to get to your destination to bump
up the fare. That said, the Taxis in Chile are
safe and effective means of getting around.
The official taxis are black and yellow and
are easily found all over the downtown area
of the city.
©
Iberia Airlines,( +56 2 284 0020/http://
www.iberia.com)
Alternatively, Rental cars companies
servicing the Arturo Merino
Benitez International Airport in
Santiago include: Alamo,+56 2 690
1370( www.alamochile.com)
American Airlines,( +56 2 209 8111/http://
www.aa.com)
Econorent,+56 2 690
1287( www.econorent.net)
British Airways,( http://
www.britishairways.com)
Rosselot,+56 2 690 1374( www.rosselot.cl)
Country: Chile
Avis,+56 2 690 1382,+56 2 690
1318( www.avischile.cl)
Viña del Mar by the Numbers:
AeroMexico( +56 2 690 1038/
www.aeromexico.com)
Delta Airlines,( +56 2 690 1555/http://
www.delta.com)
Lufthansa,( 210 2111/http://
www.lufthansa.com)
Lan Chile,( +56 2 526 2000/http://
www.lan.cl)
Lloyd Aereo Boliviano,( +56 2 690 1140/
http://www.labairlines.com)
Pluna( +56 2 690 1348/ pluna.com.uy)
United,http://www.united.com)
Varig( +56 2 690 1348, www.varig.cl)
Air France/KLM,( +56 2 290 9696/
www.airfrance.cl)
By Bus:
Bus travel in South America is very popular
and effective. For international bus service,
try:
Tas Choapa( +56 2 779 4295/http://
www.taschoapa.cl).
Tas Choapa also runs domestic routes
within Chile, as do:
Tur Bus( +56 2 270 7500/http://
www.turbus.cl)
Pullman Bus( +56 2 560 3700/http://
www.pullman.cl).
Bus& Shuttle
By Car:
There are daily buses and vans offering
service to and from the airport in Santiago
to the city of Viña del Mar. Companies with
offices in the airport include:
Chile's roads are fast, efficient and wellmaintained, especially when compared to
other South American countries. Viña del
Mar lies along the North-South Ruta(Hwy)
68 and the Hwy 60 from Argentina. Cars
brought into Chile need local insurance
and aRelaciones de Pasajeros( Passenger
Relations) document, both of which are
available at points of entry and border
crossings.
TurBus+56 2 601 9573( www.turbus.cl)
Transvip+56 2 677 3000( www.transvip.cl)
CentroPuerto+56 2 601 9883,+56 2 601
0549
TurTransfer+56 2 677
3600( www.turtransfer.cl)
Rental Cars
Getting around:
Fun Facts
Viña del Mar
Population: 294,000
Average Annual Precipitation: 34
centimeters/ 13.4 inches
Average January Temperature: 21 degrees
C/ 70 degrees F
Average July Temperature: 8 degrees C/ 47
degrees F
Quick Facts:
Electricity: 110 volts, 60Hz, standard two
pin plugs
Time Zone: GMT/UTC-4
Country Dialing Code: 56
Did You Know?
The Armenian national football[soccer]
team suffered their worst defeat in history at
Vina del Mar, where they lost to the Chilean
national team 7 to 0.
The important Swedish pop band Ace of
Base held their largest concert ever in Vina
del Mar in 1996, where they performed
before 20,000 of their fans!
©
11
Santiago Snapshot
Local Info
Santiago is a large urban area area of
more than 6 million people, sandwiched
between the vast Andes mountain chain
and the fertile avocado, vegetable and
wine-growing region to the west, a smaller
coastal range and the Pacific Ocean, from
which much of the nation’s tastiest food
is fished. The city is divided north and
south by the Mapocho River, and east and
west by the iconic Plaza Italia, which is a
gathering point for politicians, sportsfans
and friends meeting up in the evening for a
night on the town.
The city is characterized by many contrasts,
glassed-in buildings in the Las Condes
area, where a set of(somewhat diminutive)
skyscrapers reflect each other and
passersby and a downtown traditional
market area where peddlers with dishcloths
and coffee(Nescafe, don’t be fooled) ply
their wares. There are several areas of
notable Spanish architecture, cobblestoned
streets and colonial facades. Some of these
were damaged in the recent 8.8 earthquake
that shook the city, but many more are
still in near-perfect condition or are being
repaired.
The city has grown in the 500 years since
it was founded at Cerro Santa Lucia,
one of two iconic downtown hills, by its
founding father, Pedro de Valdivia, which
is also the name of a metro stop in a
comfortable, leafy neighborhood further
uptown. Traditional downtown Santiago
centers around the Plaza de Armas and
three main pedestrian streets nearby,
which are Huerfanos(say: WHERE-fanos), Estado and Ahumada, which are
microcosms of the city at any time of day,
with honey roasted peanut vendors and
shoe shine men and people talking on
cellphones and going in and out of the
hundreds of stores and restaurants that line
the streets.
But there is much more to Santiago than
downtown, or than uptown, or even what
lays in between. There are 34 comunas or
administrative districts, each with a unique
flavor. There are several neighborhoods
that bear exploring, where you’ll find many
different Santiagos to explore on foot and
by Santiago’s sleek, if overcrowded metro.
Intrepid travelers will brave the busses and
explore an even wider swath of the city. A
several-day visit to Santiago would not be
excessive, especially if you love to walk,
nibble street food, explore and most of
all, observe Santiago’s greatest asset, its
people.
Terminology: The main downtown street
in Santiago is called Avenida Libertador
Bernardo O'Higgins, named for an
important figure in Chilean history. Lucky
for the traveler, and Santiaguino(Santiagodweller) alike, we refer to this street as
theAlameda.
República& Dieciocho
On the south side of the Alameda is one
of the leafiest and broadest streets in
downtown Santiago, which defines the
neighborhood of República. Is is also
known as the Barrio Universitario(university
neighborhood) for all of the universities
and “institutes”(similar to trade or technical
schools, and there are many) in the
neighborhood. Large palaces that have
been purchased and repurposed by
universities can be found here, and
many of these were built with money
from the mining boom in the country.
Deeper into República(moving south from
the Alameda), the grandness of scale
disappears, and it becomes a middleclass neighborhood as it fans out towards
the horseracing club, Club Hípico. Much
of República, particularly closer to the
Alameda has many newer apartment
buildings and is considered a somewhat
desireable, central place to live, with many
familiies and young couples. The area is
also home to one of Santiago's bowling
alleys, much to the amusement of its
neighbors.
Barrio Brasil
North of the Alameda, and hugging the
plaza of the same name is Barrio Brasil.
It is considered to be one of the more
bohemian of Santiago’s neighborhoods,
with a string of bars, empanada restaurants
and other picadas(local wateringholes/
snackbars) along Avenida Brasil from
Moneda through Catedrál and around the
plaza itself, which has fantastical painted
cement structures in the form of dragons,
serpents and other creatures for children
to play in/on and around. It is a traditional
plaza, in that it is not been paved, and
you can often find cotton candy vendors
at their cargo tricycles, ready to spin you
a new one. There also is some classic
architecture that frames the plaza, as this
area was quite moneyed until the turn
of the century. The area is a little worn
around the edges and not for a high-class
night on the town, but is fun for people
of all ages who are down to earth and
have an appreciation for middle-class
nightlife. There are many hostels in this
area, and more keep opening to keep up
with the steady flow of travelers who find
this location(fairly close to downtown and
not far from the bus stations) to be ideal.
The Basilica was heavily damaged first in
the 1985 earthquake, and again in the 2010
earthquake. It makes a good photo op, but
you won't be going inside.
La Moneda
La Moneda is the presidential palace, and
the place where thegolpe militar(coup)
took place on September, 11th, 1973. It’s
all rebuilt and lovely, a pretty, columned
building that faces a giant, colorful plaza on
one side(Plaza La Constitución), and which
faces the Alameda and Paseo Bulnes on
the other side, with decorative fountains
flanking the building. Some other important
government buildings are in this area,
including the Ministry of the Exterior, the
Women’s Ministry, and the Stock Exchange,
which is just catty-corner to the Moneda
itself. Also under the Moneda Palace
and accessed from the Alameda side is
the Centro Cultural La Moneda, an arts
and exhibition space with a store with
local handicrafts made mainly of wood,
12
Santiago Snapshot continued
silver, wool and ceramic or terracotta, and
two cafés. There’s a movie theater that
plays artsy and political movies, and a
rotating set of exhibits including recently,
the terra cotta soldiers from China. This
area of the city is chockful of business
people walking to and from work, and
lunch time and is generally one of the
more crowded areas of downtown, though
weekends are significantly quieter. At ten
AM on Saturdays tourists and locals line
up to watch the changing of the guard
at the palace, on the north side. The
Universidad de Chile(University of Chile)
is located just a few blocks away, as is
Diego Portales(another university), both on
the Alameda(Avenica Libertador Bernardo
O’Higgins).
Further west, a number of important
buidings dominate the area including the
Court of Justice, and the PreColumbian Art
Museum. Old buildings abound, with more
classical lines, but newer buildings are
also present, mainly in a boxy, somewhat
soviet style of poured concrete that was
popular in the 50s and 60s, making for
a visual hodgepodge of architecture that
seems poorly- or un-planned. As of June,
2010, some buildings are still cordoned
off or have had scaffolding put up to repair
fallen cornices or otherwise shore up the
buildings. However, the Moneda Palace,
the Stock Exchange and many other
buildings suffered only cosmetic, or no
damage at all.
París-Londres
París Londres is one of about three
beautiful, cobblestoned pocket
neighborhoods that still retain a colonial
feel. The entrance to this neihborhood
is marked by the Hotel San Francisco,
which is a popular place for downtown
business people to stay, and also hosts
different cultural events, including wine
festival. The whole neighborhood has
a distinctly European feel, due to the
architecture, cobblestones and winding
nature of the streets in an area where most
other streets are on a straight grid. The
neighborhood was established in 1929 on
the former grounds of the Convent of San
Francisco. It is also the site of an infamous
detention house and torture spot during the
dictatorship, but you'd have to look to find
it. The area feels peaceful and safe, though
late at night when there's no one around, it
can seem a bit islolated.
City Center
Walking in Santiago is an exercise in
weaving among pedestrians(and knowing
where your wallet is at all times). The city
is quite safe, but as a tourist, you will stand
out somewhat, and don't want to give
anyone an opportunity to take advantage
of that. The Plaza de Armas is a popular
place to hang out and watch the world
go by, and you can often find a couple of
people out with telescopes for star sightings
in the evening. The plaza is dominated
by the Metropolitan Cathedral, an ornate
and gilded space, where worshippers and
tourists can enter freely. There is very
minimal damage here from the Feb. 2010
earthquake. Nearby, you can also check
out the classic architecture of the Central
Post office, and the history of the city at
the museum called the Casa Colorado.
The area around Plaza de Armas is home
to many locales set up for the growing
Peruvian population in Chile to send money
home or buy a snack or drink from Peru.
The pedestrian streets of Ahumada,
Huerfanos(say WHERE-fa-nos) and Estado
will give you a good idea of what people
need and want in the city, from shoeshines
to cafés con piernas(cafés with a gamut
of scantily-clad women serving coffee) to
the ever present Nuts4Nuts carts selling
candied peanuts, and in the summer,
themote con huesillo(traditional drink made
of cooked wheat kernels, peach punch
and reconstituted dried peacehs) vendors.
During business hours this area is packed,
and at Christmastime it is practically
impassable. Wander the streets here to get
to know downtown Santiago, and watch it
wind down as businesses close and the
cartoneros(informal recyclers) take over in
the late evening.
The area north of Plaza de Armas becomes
progressively more crowded as Paseo
Ahumada approaches the Mapocho River,
passing the salmon-colored Mercado
Central, where locals come for a fishy
breakfast to cure what ails them after a
night on the town and where respectable
lunches are served with many Chilean
specialties from the sea, using an approach
that appears to say “if it’s in the ocean,
you can cook and eat it.” The Estación
Mapocho, a former train station built at the
turn of the 20th century is the most notable
construction in the area, and its gleaming
copper roof can be seen from atop Cerro
San Cristobal. The station was formerly
used to receive goods from the coast, and
is now used as a concert and arts space,
including a celebration of popular culture
called the Cumbre Guachaca, which takes
place every year in May or June, and a
giant book fair from the end of October
to Mid-November, with one free day for
students and another for women.
La Vega(which means “the flat”), is
across the river from Mercado Central,
and is the actual central market where
individuals(and restaurants) go to get
supplies for their families. The general
rule of thumb is to look but not touch the
merchandise, lest you upset one of the
vendors. The usual warnings apply here,
though it is not an unsafe place. In the
spring impossible quantities of asparagus
do battle with strawberries scent the air,
while in the fall, squash and potatoes
dominate. You can also eat at the soup and
restaurant counters at the market, which
are generally regarded as safe, but not
as delicately prepared as the food in the
Mercado Central. This is a lower-middle
class(but not poor) area formerly called “La
Chimba.” to the side entrance of La Vega,
headed uptown(east) is the neighborhood
of Recoleta, which houses the central
cemetary and a row of fabric stores, and
also represents a face of Santiago that
most travelers will view as more typically
Latin American, more colorful and chaotic
Towards Mercado Central and into La Vega
13
than the downtown, which looks a bit
buttoned-down and grey at times.
Bellas Artes
Flanking the river on the south side and
east from the Mercado Central is Parque
Forestal(Forest Park), which is a lanscaped
dirt and treed park lined with sycamore
and picturesque lamposts with round
glass globes. This park was created at the
beginning of the century, and it extends
from its more urban point near the Estación
Mapocho to its leafier area with lots of
places for children to play(and couples
to engage in public displays of affection).
In the middle of the park, close to the
metro Bellas Artes, and near a pleasant
neighborhood which has recently become
the café capital of Santiago, there are two
museums that are back to back, the Fine
Arts museum(Bellas Artes), and the Museo
de Arte Contemporaneo(Contemporary
Arts Museum), which is closed for the
foreseeable future due to earthquake
damage which arrived on the heels of a
pricey remodelling job.
The strip of cafés and boutiques is mainly
on José Miguel de La Barra, though it also
extends up Mercéd. This is where much
of the best coffee in Santiago is served,
though keep in mind that acortado is a tiny
latte, and a cappuccino is often served with
whipped cream on top.
Lastarria
Lastarría is just a few streets up from Bellas
Artes(and that's a good point to start on if
you're on the green line metro, otherwise
get off at Universidad de Chile(not
Santiago) on the red line. This is another
classic, cobblestoned neighborhood, near
the Neo-Classical National Library(1924)
outside of which is parked an old train car
which is part of the subscription libarary
you'll also see in the metro. Lastarría is
home to many art galleries, a number of
good(if somewhat overpriced by Chilean
standards) restaurants and el Biografo, one
of two remaining artsy movie theathers.
Lastarria is home to Plaza Mulato Gil,
which sees antiques and other curiousity
vendors, and more than its fair share of
street performers, including thechinchinero,
or one-man band. Giving a 100 peso coin
is more than welcome, no more than that is
necessary unless you really love the music.
Lastaría is also quite close to Cerro Santa
Lucía(Santa Lucía Hill) whose entrance
on the José Miguel de La Barra/ Mercéd
entrance is marked by one of the city's
many fountains.
Bellavista
Following the Alameda further east(towards
the Andes), you come to Plaza Italia,
the area that used to be the eastern limit
of the city, and now delimits Santiago
Centro(downtown). From here on up, is
Providencia, another comuna(district),
which tends to be more moneyed, greener,
and less densely populated. Bellavista
lies to your left(or north), across the river,
marked by a giant private university on the
left, and the University of Chile Law school
on your left. This neighborhood is unique
in that it joins the upper and lower classes
of the city, and pretty much anyone can
find a place to go out in this neighborhood.
There are loads of restaurants, bars,
shopping(particularly in the Patio Bellavista,
a very populated shopping arcade with
live music, nice lighting and a fountain),
hotels and gay-friendly dance clubs. It is
considered bohemian, has many beautiful
wall murals, and is home to nobel prizewinning poet Pablo Neruda's home-turnedmuseum, La Chascona. It also offers
access(by foot, taxi or funicular) to the top
of Cerro San Cristobal(San Cristobal hill)
which dominates the neighborhood at the
north end. Two outdoor swimming pools,
Antilén and Tupahue are popular in the
summer, and the Santiago Zoo is located
here as well, though most visitors(rightly)
give it a miss and prefer the zoo in Buin or
skip the zoo altogether.
Providencia
Providencia is the heart of upper-middle
class Santiago. It's where people go to
shop, people watch, see and be seen, drink
coffee, take their kids on long walks, ride
bikes and otherwise enjoy the clean(er) air
of an area with much more green space
than most of the rest of the city. Avenida
Providencia is the continuation of the
Alameda, which changes names as you
pass Plaza Italia/Baquedano.
Each part of Providencia(as defined by the
metro stops) has a slightly different feel to
it. Salvador is the metro closest to the park
which continues Parque Forestal, and is
also close to the Café Literario(subscription
library and café) near Condell. Manuel
Montt begins a posher area with nicer
restaurants, while Pedro de Valdivia is
where the the commerce and shopping,
and densely-packed streets pick up, and
high rises appear. Los Leones has more
of the same, with fewer restaurants, but
easy access to Suecia, which has a small
strip of restaurants and clubs for early 20s
and other heavy partiers. Further on, at
Tobalaba(transfer to the Blue Line to get
to La Reina), the street changes names
again, to Apoquindo, and this is where Las
Condes starts.
Las Condes
Las Condes is a wealthy neighborhood
with pricey restaurants and a nice shopping
area, with two main streets as the centers
of activity, which are Isidora Goyonochea
and Alonso de Córdoba. Both of these
streets have internationally-recognized
chains, such as Starbucks, and also local
flavored cafés, and shopping, including
some exclusive wine shops. Las Condes is
also home to two of the pricier and fancier
malls in the city, which are Alto Las Condes
and Parque Arauco, each of which are
accessible by taxi or metro. Las Condes
is also a good jumping-off point for ski
tourism, with easy access to Farrellones,
Valle Nevado and El Colorado. A store
called Ski Total runs daily minibuses.
Dramamine is recommended for the
motion-sickness prone.
© NileGuide
History
Chile was not discovered all at once by
any one person. Rather, it was discovered
over the course of many years by Spanish
explorers, one piece at a time. Magellan
14
discovered the south of Chile in 1529,
Francisco de Hoces discovered Cape Horn
and Diego de Almagro discovered the north
and center of the country in 1536.
Although Diego de Almagro had already
acquired sufficient wealth in the conquest
of Peru and was living a luxurious life in
Cuzco, the prospect of conquering Chile
was very attractive to him. A dispute with
Francisco Pizarro had arisen over the
subject of the city of Cuzco, and their
relationship had deteriorated. Not wanting
to stay in that tense situation, Almagro
spent a great deal of time and money
equipping a company of 500 men to go
with him on his new journey. The conqueror
departed from Cuzco at the beginning of
July 1535, and headed straight for Chile.
Taking the route over the Bolivian plateau
and crossing the high plains of El Callao, on
the edge of Lake Titicaca, Almagro followed
the banks of the Desaguadero River and
finally after advancing through deserted
mountain ranges he set up camp in Tupiza.
In January 1536, he arrived in Argentina
and made his way across the mountains,
battling against the indigenous peoples who
were defending their land. Nevertheless,
he fought on towards the Andes through
the pass of San Francisco, at over 4000
meters(13,000 feet) his company suffered
from the effects of the heat during the day
and the intense cold at night. It cost 10,000
natives their lives, as well as most of the
horses.
At these heights, it seemed difficult to go on
with the expedition and Almagro decided
to take a group of his men with him to the
Valley of Copiapó, where they managed to
get provisions and take them back to the
rest of his men. From there, they managed
to continue their way through the valley
of Aconcagua, and started exploring the
country. After some time, Almagro realized
that Chile would not be the easy conquest
he had hoped it would be. Seeing that Chile
was a land made up of indigenous tribes
who worked the land and fiercely stood
their ground, Almagro quickly came to the
conclusion that the country was not the
land of riches he had been led to believe.
Diego de Almagro decided to go back to
Peru, where Hernando Pizarro and Pedro
de Valdivia topped him in the battle of the
salt mines. Not long after, he died in Peru.
Pedro de Valdivia had taken part in a large
number of battles by then. After helping
Pizarro to win the battle against Almagro,
he managed to obtain a rich mine of silver
and a considerable number of natives to
work for him. Valdivia was finally authorized
by Charles V to conquer Chile. With the
help of a number of people, Valdivia set
out from Cuzco with 11 Spanish soldiers
and 1000 Peruvian Indians. On the way,
he managed to accrue another hundredodd soldiers. Valdivia entered the valley of
Copiapó and after 11 months of expedition,
he finally set up camp on the shores of the
Mapocho River and founded the city of
Santiago del Nuevo Extremo on February
12, 1541 in remembrance of the apostle
Santiago, patron saint of Spain and for
the region of Extramadura. The fertile land
surrounded by irrigation ditches from the
river Mapocho, provided him with water
and the thickets made sure that there was
wood. In addition, the hill called Huelen,
now the present hill Santa Lucía, served
as a trench in case of attacks from the
indigenous peoples.
The city was trapezium-shaped, confined
by the river Mapocho on the north and
south, the hills to the east and what is
now the Avenida Brasil to the west. The
land was divided into squares, and one of
the most central squares was named the
Plaza de Armas, in which Valdivia planted a
cherry tree and called it the tree of justice.
The north side of the square was reserved
for the governor's residence El Cabildo and
the jail, while the church was erected on the
west side.
Six months after its foundation, the city was
destroyed by chief Michimalongo's men.
It was, however, immediately rebuilt in the
same place.
During the Colonial period, the Mapuche
uprising produced an exodus towards
Santiago, which concentrated upon the
population. This led to the construction of
12 more churches and many residences.
There were many earthquakes during
this period, however, and only a few of
the buildings were left standing. Some
of these include the Iglesia de San
Francisco(1618), which is still a church
today, Velasco's residence Casa de
Manso de Velasco(1730), the Posada
del Corregidor(1750) and the house
which once belonged to Mateo de Toro y
Zambrano, which is known as the Casa
Colorada today(1769).
During the Renaissance, explorers and
settlers founded many new cities; they built
new bridges, as well as new roads and
canals. It was during this era that architect
Joaquín Toesca arrived in Santiago to
build the Neo-Classical Palacio de la
Moneda(1805), currently the residence and
office building of Chile's president. He also
built the Catedral de Santiago(1785), the
Iglesia de la Merced(1795), the Iglesia de
Santo Domingo(1808) and the building of
the Real Audiencia(1808), which is today
the National History Museum.
After Chile's independence, Bernardo
O'Higgins inaugurated the Alameda de las
Delicias, along the old course of the river,
planting four lines of poplars(1820) and
founding the city's cemetery, or Cementerio
General(1820). Finally, when Santiago was
decided to become the capital, Santa Lucía
Hill was made into a public park.
In the 1900s, the wealth from the salt
mines, among other things, brought
Santiago many new advances. The
first newspapers appeared, as did the
electric trams; large houses and buildings
were built, such as the Subercaseaux
House(1930), the Ochagavía House and
the Irarrázaval House. The Museum of
Fine Arts opened in 1910, and in 1913
construction began on the National
Library(National Library).
During the 1950s and 1960s, the capital
kept growing and expanding in every
direction. In the 1970s, the country suffered
radical changes in its politics. For the
first time in history, a socialist president,
Salvador Allende, was legally elected.
This socialist government developed a
democratic and pluralistic attitude towards
structural changes in the economy and
15
reforms in society. But these were tense
times, and the tension between political
actors increased and led to a coup d'etat
against the Chilean president on the 11th of
September 1973. After the fall of Allende's
administration, Augusto Pinochet Ugarte
was installed as president, followed by
Patricio Aylwin, Eduardo Frei Montalva,
Ricardo Lagos and now presently, the first
woman, Michelle Bachelet.
©
Hotel Insights
Hotel options in Santiago have changed
in recent years, but most visitors will stay
in the city center for mid-range options,
up in Vitacura/Las Condes for elegance
and international renound, and in Barrio
Brasil, Bellavista or Bellas Artes for
cheaper sleeps(with some exceptions). The
downtown(center) hotels tend to be spread
out among the main street, along which
the red line metro also runs, which is called
Avenida del Libertator General Bernardo
O'HIggins, which, luckily for visitors and
locals alike, is commonly referred to as the
Alameda, as the former is quite a mouthful.
City Center
There are several hotels near the
downtown area, bordered by Plaza
Italia(Baquedano Metro) to the east and
about the Moneda(Presidential Palace)
to the east, some of which have been
around for years, but still get accolades
and repeat visits. There a few that are
known for their elegant architecture, like
the Hotel Diego de Almagro- Santiago
Centro while others attract international
clientele, with high standards for rooms
and service, but nothing to let you know
you're in South America. Closer to the
cobblestoned area known as Paris-Londres
for its two historical streets, theHotel Plaza
San Francisco hosts conventions and
events, in addition to providing a place to
sleep for weary business travelers. Further
into the historic Paris-Londres area, there
are a few large but cheaper hotels, and
even a hostel or two tucked away.
Vitacura/El Golf
Fro those for whom convenient access
to Santiago's financial center up in Las
Condes is a must, don't mind being a
bit of a walk from the metro, and who
prefer elegant surroundings, staying up
in Vitacura is a good solution. It's where
the expensive shopping, see-and-be-seen
and famous chefs rub shoulders amid a
smattering of Starbucks where the staff
tend to speak English. Several five-star
hotels line this strip, including the world's
least expensive Ritz-Carlton, which is used
by upper-class just-married for their first
night or wedded bliss, or wealthy visitors
to the city who prefer to stay a this famous
hotel chain. Other luxury hotels are just
a few blocks away, and the newcomerW
hotel completes the uppercrust of the
hotel collections up in this area, with its
pricey bar, Asian-fusion restaurant and
pricey"delicatessen" which is a store selling
hard-to find(in Chile) ingredients.
Las Condes
Up towards the mountains, and generally
out of hte line of even the winter smog,
along an area that is the continuation of
Avenida Providencia from Providencia,
and called Avenida Apoquindo is the area
of Santiago called Las Condes. It is a
comforatable, leafy area off of the main
streets, and somewhat smaller copy of a
small but powerful American city, complete
with glassed-in(smallish) skyscrapers.
In fact, this area is called"Sanhattan" by
people who love it, but New Yorkers may
find this comical. At any rate, business
travelers will find it a good place to stay,
with a few international hotel chains
represented, first class hotels one and
all, with pricetags to match. Another
option, for those who wish to stay longer
is an"aparthotel" which is an independent
suite with a kitchen. One popular choice is
the Ateva Apart Hotel.
Providencia
Providencia is closer to downtown, but still
considered an upper-middle class areas
with pretty, manicured sidewalks and many
opportunities for shopping, and dining at
fairly reasonable prices. It's an area favored
by the middle-class in their 30s and above,
with the exception of the street Suecia,
which attracts a much younger(and more
heavily intoxicated) crowd. Hotels here are
a mixed bag, with spendy, reasonable, and
even a couple of hostels. There are pricey
digs,(usually with international names),
smaller hotels for business travelers not
traveling for a Fortune 500, and several
hostels, which tend to cluster around the
downtown end, near Manuel Montt and
Salvador Metro stations. All of Providencia
is metro accessible, though guests at the
Sheraton Santiago Hotel and Convention
Center may feel more comfortable taking
a taxi, as the hotel is located beside a
highway, and the crossing is very trafficked
as you traverse the highway. It is worth
noting that hotels in the parts of Providencia
that are closer to downtown tend to be a
little more young and funky, and the areas
further towards Las Condes tend to be
smarter and more elegant, though all are
perfectly safe.
Bellas Artes
Bellas Artes is a newly-desirable area
chockablock with cafés, small boutiques,
access to Parque Forestal(a ribbon of
green stretching along the river, with giant
weeping willows at a couple of points), that
is close to the museum of the same name.
Here there is an old standby theHotel
Foresta, which has a very smoky bar
downstairs and an underrated restaurant
upstairs. A newer hostel calledAndes
Hostel is a lively option for the backpacker
and budget crowd, with private rooms
available. Both have easy access ot the
smaller of the two hills that loverlook the
city, called Cerro Santa Lucía, as well as
downtown, and Bellavista.
Bellavista
This area has as its spine the street Pio
Nono, along which dozens of bars and
restaurants sprawl, though the choosy
will head one street east to Constitución
for somewhat higher prices and generally
better service and food. Nearly everything
in Bellavisa are hostels catering to the
party crowd, but there is one surprise,
which isThe Aubrey, a high-end urban
retreat boutique hotel recently opened in
a lovingly-retsored house by the owner of
the famous Valparaíso(and now Santiago,
restaurant Pasta e Vino. It is the only
boutique hotel close to downtown and i
sure to atract aninteresting smattering of
travelers, including the high-end oenophiles
that use Snatiago as a starting point.
Barrio Brasil
This area attracts a 20s to 30s crowd,
to its cobblestoned streets and its main
strip, which is Avenida Brasil. It is home
to several hostels, and you'll often find
backpackers in and around this traditional
Santiago neighborhood.Independent
travelers who turn their noses up at
16
institutional hostels rave about theCasa
Roja, a giant old house with a courtyard,
comfortable living rooms, a sizeable
kitchen, free Internet and a travel agency
inside. The whole neighborhood has very
easy access(five blocks or less) to the
Centropuerto bus from the airport, which
comes into the Los Heroes Metro, and is on
both the red and green lines of the metro.
There are manypicadas(cheap snackbars/
restaurants), a few nicer restaurants and
more than its share of Chinese food.
© NileGuide
The people of Santiago are very demanding
when it comes to eating out. Over
the last few years there has been an
obvious increase in the city's international
restaurants, as well as a return to traditional
Chilean food, with European and American
influences. The range of restaurants means
it is possible to find practically anything you
might be in the mood to eat.
The most popular and fashionable
restaurants are concentrated in several
different sections of Santiago, and for most
of these restaurants it is important that you
book a reservation in advance, even for a
weekday.
Bellavista
If you prefer a quiet and relaxed
atmosphere, the Bellavista area is a
good place to go. Here, besides many
restaurants offering a wide variety of
different types of food, there are wonderful
cafés, art galleries, discotheques and
theaters. It is also a great place to take
a walk through its streets of picturesque
houses, squares and quaint avenues. This
area is also very popular among young and
slightly older adults, and the fact that it was
once the bohemian areapar excellence in
Santiago is still evident today. For a taste of
some quality and rather unorthodox, spicy
Chilean food, try Resto-Bar Ky.
The range of cuisines in this area is wide.
If you want to try Peruvian cuisine(highly
recommended), places such as Tasca
Mediterránea and Shakespeare's Pub
will not disappoint you. In addition to the
exquisite and exotic Peruvian dishes, don't
forget to try the famous Peruvian-style
cocktail called the Pisco Sour. If you want
to try cooking your own food"Teppanyaki
Style," try Meridiano Comida Entretenida.
venerable Club de Jazz, founded in
1943 and a Chilean institution. Two other
bohemian type bars are the Café de la Isla
also with live music and Amor Nunca Muere
or"Love never Dies," both frequented by a
young and lively clientele.
Providencia
Vitacura Area
Providencia is both a residential and
shopping area where you will also find a
wide range of restaurants for all tastes
and ages. If what you are after is fish and
seafood, try Aquí Está Coco, where both
the atmosphere and the food are excellent
and fresh. Mikado is another good seafood
restaurant complete with a karaoke bar in
order give it that touch of Tokyo.
In the Vitacura area, you will find many
restaurants that are very popular among
young people, such as el Naturista,
featuring sumptuous vegetarian food and
drinks at the bar. For Chinese food, try the
Wok House and have theSei-Sha, which
is a plate of delicious prawns covered in
almonds. If you have the family with you,
take them over to Acuarela in order to take
advantage of the all you can eat buffet of
traditional Chilean food. For those beer
lovers, there is only one place where you
can get a pint of Guinness and that is at
Flannery's Irish Geo Pub, so come here to
enjoy that Irish specialty.
For Mediterranean and arabic inspired
cuisine, try El Antojo de Gauguin. For
Mexican food, go to Mexicana Santiago.
Ecuadorian ex-pats go to Mitad del Mundo
and enjoy traditional dishes from home. If
Caribbean flavor is what you're after, try
Delirio Caribeño and don't forget to have
a mojito. For those all night revelers, go
and enjoy some rhythms at Entre Negros,
where the music is on until the early hours.
Another wonderful bar with fresh cocktails
that also serves dinner is Bar Yellow,
located in the heart of Providencia.
City Center
In the city center, for those looking for
a wonderful vegetarian restaurant, you
must stop by El Vegetariano. A great
place for take-out is Chez Henry which
serves traditional Chilean food. And for the
besttapas in town, try Ibérico. If beers and
jazz are what you are seeking, go to Sicosis
and satisfy both desires with some noisy
jazz and a great beer selection. El Cuervo
is an inexpensive bar with great food and
located near the theater.
Ñuñoa
The district known as Ñuñoa has many
options for nightlife and dining for you
to choose from. For breakfast, stop by
La Tecla and choose from every type of
pancake on the planet. A great happy hour
can be found at Ebano, where cocktails
and every type of liquor are found. Again
for those jazz enthusiasts, there is the
Las Condes Area
In the area of Las Condes, Asian food rules
in restaurants such as Anakena and BaliHai, which also feature dancing and singing
in the evenings. For excellent Chinese
food, try Danubio Azul or Chang Cheng.
The American Ruby Tuesday's is also in
this area if you fancy some burgers and
fries. El Madroñal is an elegant place to
try Spanish specialties that change daily. If
you are in the mood for pasta, try Le Due
Torri. Another place in Las Condes is Pub
Licity(both a restaurant and bar).
Downtown
The downtown area is another very popular
area among young Chileans and executives
alike. Frederick's Cafe& Bistro is famous
throughout Chile and serves both European
styled cuisine as well as American. You
may want to leave your options open and
try a more international menu, at such
places like Pérgola de la Plaza, where you
will eat in an elegant setting with piano
or violin music to accompany your meal.
Fancy an Italian meal? Try Squadritto
located in the famous bohemian square
called Mulato Gil. For a fusion of traditional
Chilean and Asian foods try Catedral and
for an excellent menu that includes French
17
cuisine and white tablecloth service at
reasonable prices, go to Opera. A classic
wine bar located in this area after a show or
dinner is Libro Café Mediterráneo, it has a
selection of wines from around the world as
well as fabulous Chilean wines.
©
Nightlife Insights
The words"boring" or"dull" have no
place in reference to Santiago's nightlife.
Even during the day, Santiago is no less
interesting, with its many cultural contrasts
that will no doubt give the visitor many
things to think about.
Art
In this part of the city called Vitacura, there
are plenty of galleries to visit and buy
some local art. One of these that includes
sculpture and engraving is the Galería de
Arte Isabel Aninat. Another gallery to find
exhibits from local and international artist is
the Galeria A.M.S. Marlborough and one for
the children is the Casas de la Matta, where
workshops are held for kids. And lastly for
those fashion lovers, there is the Museo de
la Moda which houses a wide collection of
fashions and styles from every era.
Museums
Santiago also has many museums with
many treasures from Chile, such as the
San Francisco Museum, built in 1628, the
Artequín Museum is an interactive museum
that is great for children, the Archaeological
Museum of Santiago for those interested
in Chilean history, and the more exotic
Municipal Museum of Insects and Snails.
The Pre-Columbian Chilean Art Museum
contains some artifacts from indigenous
people throughout South America. A
museum designed after the Petit Palais
in Paris is the National Fine Arts Museum
and has more than 2700 paintings from
around the world. For those looking for
more modern art, there is the Museum of
Contemporary Art, located in the Bellas
Artes area. The Museum of Science and
Technology is an interactive museum and
very interesting for both adults and children.
Music
For music-lovers, the choices are both
excellent and wide. Whether you are
interested in seeing one of the concerts of
world-famous bands such as Inti Illimani or
Los Jaivas, or attending one of the many
folk, jazz or classical concerts offered
throughout the city, Santiago has something
for you no matter your musical preference.
If it's rock you are after, you should have
a look and see what is going on in places
like La Batuta, where there tends to be
music throughout the evening. The nightlife
in Santiago takes place in various areas
throughout the city. One of the most popular
areas is the Barrio Bellavista, with its
bohemian feel and its many restaurants,
bars and discotheques, and in January,
the Love Parade takes over this area with
techno music and DJs until the break of
dawn. One of the most popular dance clubs
at the moment is Skuba, full of national jet
setters.
Theaters
During the summer, the whole of Santiago
becomes a huge theater, with its many
festivals and performances. What is known
as the Teatro a Mil(mil meaning a thousand)
takes place in Mapocho station every day
in January and competes with the many
free theater festivals organized by various
councils in the capital city, such as La
Florida or Providencia.
If what you are after is a place with its
own identity and idiosyncrasies, Plaza
Ñuñoa is the place to go. Famous for
being the bohemian center of Santiago,
this neighborhood is a wonderful place to
hang out at night. Take a walk around the
gardens, or spend a night with your friends
in one of the many bars and discos in the
area. You might even want to buy a book in
the second-hand bookshop there. During
the summer, the Teatro Municipal presents
concerts practically every night, presenting
some of the new music that has come out
during the season. Teatro Apoquindo and
Teatro La Comedia are also very popular
theater spots in Santiago.
Nightlife
There are many other things one can do
at night in the center of Santiago. Why
not simply have a walk along the Paseo
Ahumada, where there are many street
stalls selling trinkets and treats? At the
end of that street, you will come across the
recently refurbished Plaza de las Armas.
Surrounded by Colonial buildings, the place
is full of street painters and musicians who
perform all sorts of concerts on the stage.
Santiago has more than one face. And this
is part of its attraction: modern shopping
malls on the one hand, and indigenous arts
and crafts exhibitions(in the Cerro Santa
Lucía) on the other, street performances
and juggling outside the Museo de Arte
Contemporáneo(Museum of Contemporary
Art), and visual art exhibitions in its many
galleries and underground stations.
Santiago is a city of healthy contrasts
between its different areas, with a truly
fascinating cultural and architectural
diversity.
Paseo San Damián is another popular area,
although slightly more expensive. One of
the nicest things about this area, apart from
the music, the drink and the good food, is
the fresh air of one of the highest points
of the city. In this area, there is also the
Parque Araucano, a great place to take the
kids, have some ice cream and maybe take
a dip in one of the swimming pools. If what
you are after is dancing, or you want to,
as they say in Chile,"throw the house out
of the window"(a Chilean version of"paint
the town red"), just open the Yellow Pages
and take your pick! In Santiago the partying
begins around midnight and goes on right
through till dawn. Most of the discotheques
have a wide range of drinks and offer the
latest in sound and lighting equipment.
Nightspots with a gay and lesbian focus
are also plentiful, and include bars and
discotheques with excellent musical
performances and an exciting atmosphere.
Another similar place is the Plaza Brasil,
located right in the city center. The buildings
in this area, which feature Colonial
architecture, are home to many university
students in Santiago. There are many bars
and restaurants in this area, where you can
18
eat, drink or even read a poem if you feel
up to it.
©
National History Museum
Santiago, like other big cities, is a busy
and somewhat stressful place, with people
running around from one place to another,
and no time to stop to observe the beautiful
and interesting places that surround
them. One of these interesting places is
the Palacio de la Real Academia, which
is now the site of the Museo Histórico
Nacional(National History Museum). The
palace was built towards the end of the
colonial period, between 1804 and 1807,
and was then home to the highest court in
the country under Spanish control. Don't
miss the chance to visit this museum.
On the opposite side of Calle Rosal, one
can also find handicrafts and bookshops
as well as visit the Museum of PreColombian Cultures. The Museo de Arte
Sagrado(Museum of Sacred Art) is where
religious objects, furniture, a silver lectern
and manuscripts from the times of the
Colony and the Republic are kept. Further
along Calle Merced, to the east, is the
Basilica and Museum of Merced, a beautiful
and impressive building which once
belonged to the order of the Mercedarians.
After several earthquakes, the present
building was erected in 1760.
Parque Forestal
When you come to the end of the street,
cross Calle Merced and Calle Monjitas,
and you will come to the Parque Forestal.
Going eastward through the sculptures and
variety of trees(oriental plane trees, palm
trees and plum trees), you will come out to
Calle Pío Nono. Just before you get there,
to your left, is the recently opened Teatro
del Puente, where you can enjoy theater
plays on the river Mapocho. In the midst
of the grey of the city of Santiago, you will
find one of the largest green areas in the
capital: the Parque Metropolitano, which
features 712 hectares of green land across
the hills of San Cristóbal, Chacarillas,
Pirámide and Blanco. San Cristóbal hill is
a true symbol of the city, being higher than
its neighbors and topping 860 meters. In
1921, works started on the hill to make a
green public pathway, and six years later
the works were completed. Today, it is one
of the most attractive and popular places
in Santiago. Apart from the green spaces,
it also holds the Zoo, home to 170 animal
species. There are also two swimming
pools, a picnic area, a square for children to
play in, a chapel, the Mapulemu Botanical
Gardens and the wine cellar, where all sort
of events take place. The most impressive
thing about it, however, is the breathtaking
view of Santiago, even more spectacular if
you happen to go on a clear day after it has
rained, or at night, when you can see all the
city lights.
Bellavista
Along Calle Pío Nono, towards the north,
you come to one of the most entertaining
and interesting areas in Santiago,
Bellavista. Bars, discotheques, restaurants,
cafés—you can find anything here. This
is where the poet Pablo Neruda chose to
live. You can end your walk paying a visit
to his house La Chascona. If you turn right,
along Calle Antonia López de Bello, and
then left again along Constitución, you will
eventually come out onto Calle Fernando
Márquez de la Plata.
This visit to the heart of Santiago includes
the Plaza de Armas and the religious,
cultural and institutional buildings nearby.
It will take about three hours, but it is best
to do it in the morning on a weekday,
except Mondays, which is when most of the
museums are closed. Spanish conqueror
Pedro de Valdivia founded Santiago in 1541
and made this square the reference point in
measuring the country.
On the north side of the square is the
Correo Central(The Central Post Office),
which was built in 1882 in the place that
was once the Palace of the Governors of
the Colony. After the effects of a fire, it was
refurbished in 1908. Now, the second floor
is an interesting Telegraphic Post Museum,
with displays postal and telegraphic history
and an interesting stamp collection. In front
of the museum is the building of the Courts
of Justice, declared a national monument,
much like the former Ex Congreso Nacional
building. Behind these buildings lies the
Palacio Edwards, also known as the
September Palace. The National Library
is an impressive French-style building that
was built between 1913 and 1924. Inside,
don't miss the Medina room, which holds
the most important collection of papers from
the Indies in Latin America. Go down Calle
Moneda and you will get to the famous
Plaza de la Constitución(Constitution
Square), surrounded by other important
public buildings.
Santa Lucia Hill
It is recommended that you start this tour at
Santa Lucía underground station. Outside
the station and to the northeast is the
famous Cerro Santa Lucía(Hill of Santa
Lucía), known as Huelén by the natives
and later named Santa Lucía by Pedro de
Valdivia. From 1872 to 1875, 150 prisoners
worked on it to make a public pathway.
We recommend you go during the day and
keep away from deserted areas. If you turn
right down Calle San Antonio, and past
Calle Moneda, you will get to the Teatro
Municipal, which is well worth a visit. The
main cultural activities in Santiago(opera,
ballet and concerts) take place here.
Opened in 1857, it later suffered the effects
of a terrible fire in 1870, and an earthquake
in 1906. However, it has been rebuilt and
refurbished in keeping with the original
design. Other places nearby which are also
worth paying a visit to are the Plaza del
Libertador Bernardo O'Higgins(opposite
the Palacio de la Moneda), the Club de la
Unión, the Bolsa de Comercio(the stock
exchange) and the Universidad de Chile.
Adventure Tours
Eagle Touring(+56 2 2355302/ http://
www.chiletouring.cl/)
Archaeological Tours(+1 866 740 5130/
http://www.archaeologicaltrs.com/am_nochile.html)
Walking Tours
Chilebbtours(+56 2 6963847/ http://
www.chile-travel.com/)
19
Chile Call Center(+1 800 811 3077/ http://
www.chilecallcenter.com/excursions.htm)
Chile Tours(+1 800 811 8829/ http://
www.chile-tours.com/santiago.htm)
©
Travel Tips
CentroPuerto(+56 2 601 9883/ +56 2 601
0549) TurBus and CentroPuerto offer bus
service to Los Heroes Metro or nearby, and
are the most economical option. TurBus
and TransVip also offer shared and private
rides in vans.
Taxis
Getting There
(+ 56 2 690 138) are readily available at the
terminal(look for the blue"official" cab logo).
By Air
Rental Car
Arturo Merino Benitez International(SCL)
Rental car companies servicing the Arturo
Merino Benitez International Airport include:
http://www.aeropuertosantiago.cl/
Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport
is located 17 kilometers(11 miles) northwest
of Santiago.
Airlines serving this airport include:
Air Canada(+56 2 690 1115/ http://
www.aircanada.com)
Aerolineas Argentinas(+56 2 690 1030/
http://www.aerolineas.com)
AeroMexico(+56 2 690 1038/ http://
www.aeromexico.com)
Iberia Airlines(+56 2 284 0020/ http://
www.iberia.com)
American Airlines(+56 2 209 8111/ http://
www.aa.com)
British Airways(http://
www.britishairways.com)
Delta Airlines(+56 2 690 1555/ http://
www.delta.com)
Lufthansa(+ 56 2 210 2111/ http://
www.lufthansa.com)
Lan Chile(+56 2 526 2000/ http://
www.lan.cl)
Lloyd Aereo Boliviano(+56 2 690 1140/
http://www.labairlines.com)
Pluna(+56 2 690 1348/ http://pluna.com.uy)
United(http://www.united.com)
Varig(+56 2 690 1348/ http://www.varig.cl)
Air France/KLM(+56 2 290 9696/ http://
www.airfrance.cl)
Bus Private buses and vans offer service to
and from the airport to the city center and
around Santiago. Companies with offices in
the airport include:
TurBus(+56 2 601 9573/ http://
www.turbus.cl)
Transvip(+56 2 677 3000/ http://
www.transvip.cl)
Alamo(+56 2 690 1370/ http://
www.alamochile.com)
Econorent(+56 2 690 1287/ http://
www.econorent.net)
Rosselot(+56 2 690 1374/ http://
www.rosselot.cl)
Avis(+56 2 690 1382/ +56 2 690 1318/
http://www.avischile.cl)
By Car:
Santiago is located along Chile's Highway
5, which people will refer to as Ruta 5, El
5 Sur, or el 5 Norte, depending on which
way it's going. This is the Panamerican
Highway.
Driving times to Santiago: From Rancagua
– 1 hour; Valparaíso/Viña del Mar – 1 hour
30 minutes; Chillán – 4 hours 30 minutes;
La Serena – 5 hours 30 minutes; Valdivia
– 9 hours 20 minutes; Puerto Montt – 12
hours; Antofagasta – 15 hours; Arica – 23
hours.
Chile's roads are fast, efficient and wellmaintained, especially when compared
to other South American countries.
That said, driving in Santiago can be a
nightmare. There is lots of congestion
and confusing traffic patterns. Avoid the
morning and afternoon rush hours. Cars
brought into Chile need local insurance
and a Relaciones de Pasajeros(Passenger
Relations) document, both of which are
available at points of entry and border
crossings.
Sundays and holidays. Regular travelers
can buy BIP(say: beep) pass for$1200
pesos, and add fare to the card as they
go along. These passes also work on the
busses, and there is a 90-minute transfer
period from bus to metro or metro to bus,
during which time the second voyage
is free. Small orange buses called the
Metrobus offer additional services(with free
transfers) from the Metro, and also accept
the BIP pass. Buses bring Santiaguinos
all over town, and if you know where
you're going or want to try your luck with
the Santiago transportation website, it is
www.transantaigoinforma.cl. It gives routes
and alternate routes but requires a bit of
Spanish and knowlege of the city wouldn't
hurt either.
Colectivos are shared taxis that ply the
streets. They look like regular taxis but
have a white plastic sign on top indicating
their route. They are more expensive than
buses, cheaper than taxis, but only run on
specific routes, as indicated by their signs.
Taxi
Taxis are not terribly expensive, but it's best
to know the route you need to take before
you get in the car to prevent circuitous
routes. Some taxi meters are"fixed" and
will increase more quickly than they should,
though as a traveler, you are ill-equipped
to know if this is the case. Upon giving
a 10,000 bill to the driver, it behooves
you to say"son diez," to avoid"confusion"
where you are told that you gave the driver
a 1,000 bill, a common scam. Taxis are
actually a safe and efficient option, but
you need to keep your wits about you.
A red light in the upper left corner of the
windshield that says"Libre"(free) indicates
that the black and yellow cars are in service
and looking for passengers, though taxi
drivers will often honk if they are assertively
looking for fares.
Some people prefer to call a taxi rather than
hailing one on the street. Here are some
companies: Centro(+56 2 695 4148)
Andes-Pacifico(+56 2 225 3064/ http://
www.andespacifico.cl)
Getting around
Apoquindo(+56 2 211 6073).
The quick and easy way to get around
Santiago is via the metro(+56 2 250
3000/ http://www.metrosantiago.cl), which
is clean, convenient and modern, and
serves much of the city and its surrounding
areas. The system's five lines run from
6:30a-11:00p M-Sa and 8:00a-10:00p
By Long-Distance Bus
Bus travel in South America is very popular
and effective. The main international bus
companies serving Santiago from as far as
Rio de Janiero, Brazil, are:
20
Tas Choapa(+56 2 779 4295/ http://
www.taschoapa.cl/)
El Rápido(+1 56 2 776 0049/ http://
www.elrapidpoint.com.ar/)
These companies also run domestic routes
within Chile, as do:
Tur Bus(+56 2 270 7500/ http://
www.turbus.cl/)
Pullman Bus(+56 2 560 3700/ http://
www.pullman.cl/).
There are four main bus terminals in
Santiago:
Alameda, Avenida Bernardo O'Higgins
3750(+56 2 776 2424)
San Borja, Calle San Borja 184(+56 2
7760645)
Universidad de Santiago, Avenida Bernardo
O'Higgins 3848(+56 2 3761755)
Los Heroes, Calle Tucapel Jimenez 21(+56
2 420 0099) Travelers going to Valparaíso
or Viña del Mar may prefer to take the
red line metro to Pajaritos where there
is another small bus station with just 11
platforms that has frequent(every 10-15
minutes) service to these two destinations.
For long distance buses, there are a few
clases of service, from ejecutivo(regular
Pullman-style seat), semi-cama(somewhat
more inclined) cama(flatter still, with leg
rest). Even so, these services vary from
company to company, and asking how
many seats there are on the bus is a better
indication of how comfortable they will be
than the name itself. Most overnight bus
services will come with blankets and a
snack at breakfast time, with the quality
of the snack related to the price of the
service. Buying tickets ahead of time for
long weekends, holidays and during the
prime summer travel season(January and
February) is recommended and can be
essential.
Fun Facts
By Long-Distance Train
Average January Temperature: 21°C/ 70°F
There are two trains that run out of
Santiago to other cities, both of which leave
from the striking Estación Central(on the
red line metro stop of the same name,
along the Alameda(Avenida Bernardo
O'Higgins).
Average July Temperature: 8°C/ 47°F
The Metrotrén is a commuter line that runs
out to San Fernando, near the Colchagua
valley, and which you can take to some
smaller towns such as Pelequén with its
onion domed church, or to go to Rancagua,
or get closer access to the abandoned
mining town of Sewell(http://www.tmsa.cl/)
The second train is the"Train to the
South" which is, post earthquake(Feb
27, 2010), only running as far as Talca,
but will hopefully one day extend back to
Concepción. Their website. in English is
athttp://www.terra-sur.cl/link.cgi/English/
© NileGuide
Santiago
Country: Chile
Santiago by the Numbers:
Population: 5,278,044(city); 7.2
million(metropolitan)
Average Precipitation: 33 cm/ 13.4 in
Quick Facts:
Electricity: 220/240 VAC, three-pronged
plugs where the middle one is the ground.
Some plugs have only two round pins, and
some outlets will accept only those.
Time Zone: GMT/UTC-4/ GMT-3 for
Daylight Savings from 1st Sunday on of
after Oct 9th to 1st Sunday on or after
March 9th.
Country Dialing Code: 56 To call a cell
phone, the code is 569, and for a land
line 562. Cell phones have 8 digits and
landlines have 7.
Did You Know?
Nearby Cajón de Maipo is a hotspot for
UFO sightings, which are called OVNIs in
Spanish.(Objecto volador no identificado).
©
21
Valparaiso Snapshot
Local Info
Introduction
115km(71 miles) NW of Santiago; 8km(5
miles) S of Viña del Mar
Valparaíso is Chile's most captivating city,
and, accordingly, it is the most popular
coastal destination and an obligatory
cruise ship port of call. During the 19th
century, Valparaíso ranked as a port
town of such wealth that few others in
the world could compare, but in the years
following the completion of the Panama
Canal, Valparaíso sunk into poverty. Like
a penniless aristocrat, the city clung for
decades to its glorious past, yet only traces
of the architectural splendor and riches
the city once knew could still be seen.
Today, especially on hills such as Cerro
Concepción and Cerro Alegre, the city's
run-down buildings are experiencing a
rebirth. With so many gourmet restaurants
and boutique hotels opening at such a fast
pace, Valparaíso is quickly becomingthe
choice destination for dining and lodging
on the coast. The historical importance of
this city, paired with the vibrant culture of
localporteños, is far more intriguing than
Viña-- a reason why UNESCO designated
Valparaíso a World Heritage Site in 2002.
Much like San Francisco, the city is made
of a flat downtown surrounded by steep
hills, but unlike that city, the irregular
terrain in Valparaíso presented far more
challenges for development. The jumble
of multicolored clapboard homes and
weathered Victorian mansions that cling
to sheer cliffs and other unusual spaces
are testament to this, and you could
spend days exploring the maze of narrow
passageways and sinuous streets that
snake down ravines and around hillsides.
Given the lack of towering high rises
on the hillsides, the city is frequently
described as"stadium seating"-- providing
breathtaking views no matter where you
are.
Valparaíso has spawned generations of
international poets, writers, and artists who
have found inspiration in the city, including
the Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda,
who owned a home here. The city is also
known for its bohemian and antiquated bars
that stay open into the wee hours of the
morning.
But the real attraction here is the city's
streets, where you can admire the
angular architecture that makes this city
unique, and ride the century-old, clicketyclackascensores, or funiculars, that lift
riders to the tops of hills. If you're the
type who craves character and culturally
distinctive surroundings, this is your place.
© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.
Hotel Insights
Hotels
Less than a decade ago, decent lodging
was so scarce in Valparaíso that even the
city's own tourism board recommended
travelers lodge in Viña. Today, Valparaíso
is the epicenter of stylish boutique lodging,
whereas Viña is known more for full-scale
hotels and resorts with all the bells and
whistles and beach access. You'll still
spot a fewhostales whose pretty, flowerboxed facades belie awful conditions
within, but even these establishments are
being bought up by hoteliers who see the
potential in Valparaíso becoming the next
hot tourism destination rather than just a
character-rich-- but down-at-the-heels-- city
suited only for a day visit.
Restaurants
The culinary scene in Valparaíso is hot,
hot, hot-- not even Santiago can compete
with the gastronomic explosion currently
taking place in this port town. Valparaíso's
bohemian flair, its concentration of talented
young chefs, and its constant supply of
adventurous and demanding diners have
all combined to inspire a synergistic food
culture found in few regions of Chile. The
bistro reigns here in Valparaíso, those
intimate eateries housed in recycled old
Victorians that are typically owner-attended
and offer inventive cuisine in lieu of the
fish-and-fries fare and grumpy service that
reigned in this city for decades. Valparaíso,
it can be said, shows a newfound respect
for diners. Of course, you won't want to
miss dropping into one of the century-old
establishments in Valparaíso that have
played host to generations of revelers, if
only for the antique architecture and a whiff
of the city's formidable and colorful history.
Note that most restaurants are either closed
or open for lunch only on Sundays.
Valparaíso has quite a few charming
cafes for a snack oronces, Chile's famous
afternoon tea. Café Riquet, located at no.
1199 in the Plaza Anibal Pinto, is a local
institution in Valparaíso and a popular point
of reunion for writers and artists and a host
of characters, and they have reasonably
priced fixed-price lunches. Café del Poeta,
no. 1181, is a good spot for coffee and
pastries, and they serveonces. Café Harté,
just to the right of the El Peral funicular
on Cerro Alegre, is the cafe to go to for a
spectacular view.
Nightlife Insights
Nightlife
Valparaíso is nationally famous for its
bohemian pubs and bars where poets,
writers, tango aficionados, sailors,
university students, and just about
everyone else spend hours drinking,
dancing, and socializing well into the early
morning hours. In fact, most restaurants
and bars do not adhere to a set closing
hour, but instead close"when the candles
burn down."
That said, given the Valparaíso University
here, a lot of these nighttime watering holes
draw in a disproportionate amount of young
adults. The Cinzano, facing Plaza Aníbal
Pinto on Calle Esmeralda(tel. 32/221-3043),
is an exception. This traditional and
unabashedly kitschy bar/restaurant is
known for its kooky tango singers who
break out the mic Thursday through
Saturday after 10pm. But you need to get
here earlier, or you'll end up waiting for a
table. La Colombina(tel. 32/223-6254)
22
Valparaiso Snapshot continued
is frequented by an adult/young adult
crowd for its comfortable ambience, live
jazz and bolero music, and view of the
glittering lights of Valparaíso that spread out
below; take a cab or the funicular Ascensor
Peral and walk down Paseo Yugoslavo.
The Brighton Bed& Breakfast has live
music on Fridays and a bar ambience most
nights on their hanging terrace. La Playa,
Serrano 568(tel. 32/259-4262), is one of
Valparaíso's legendary bar/restaurants,
and it draws an eclectic mix of characters
who come to eat, drink, and listen to live
music or poetry readings well into the early
morning.
My pick for a venue dedicated to nightlife
action is La Piedra Feliz, Av. Errázuriz
1054(tel. 32/256788). The bar/dance club
is housed within the old storehouse of a
shipping company, and it has something
for everyone: a trendy subterranean lounge
and club with DJs(lounge Thurs-Sat),
a salsa room, tango room, pub, and a
stage for live music. Twenty- and thirtysomethings sweat to electronic music at the
ultracool Mundo Pagano, Blanco 236(tel.
32/223-1118; www.mundopagano.cl), which
has nightly dance parties and occasionally
live music. On Cerro Concepción, one of
the hippest bars is Gremio, Pasaje Gálvez
173(tel. 32/222-8394; www.gremio.cl),
with periodic arts exhibitions and snacks.
Deck 00, Muelle Barón(tel. 32/259-2852), a
glass cube building at the end of the dock,
offers a waterfront view and occasional
lounge parties, but you'll need to check
their website for info as they open and
close on a whim. Bitácora, Cumming
68(tel. 32/222-6412), is a popular cultural
center featuring local artists; there's a bar
on the first floor and a second-floor salon
dedicated to theater and music.
Attractions
The city's Natural History Museum, Av.
Condell 1546 in the Palacio Lyon(tel.
32/245-9056), has been closed for
desperately needed renovations for the
last few years, and continues to shut down
for construction-- check on the off chance
that it is open(usual hours are Tues-Sat
10am-1pm and 4-9pm; Sun and holidays
10am-2pm; admission$1/70p, or free Wed
and Sun). The Galería Municipal de Arte,
in the basement level of the Palacio Lyon
at Av. Condell 1550, features paintings
and sculptures by regional artists, usually
arranged thematically and related to the
Valparaíso area. It's open Tuesday through
Sunday, with erratic hours dependent on
the current exhibition.
Plaza O'Higgins, close to the Congreso
Nacional, hosts a weekend flea market
purveying all manner of collectibles
ranging from knickknack memorabilia to
books, homemade jams, Neruda-themed
souvenirs, and electrical items. You will also
find local artistes selling their wares at stalls
clustered close to the Neruda museum and
along the Paseo Gervasoni.
Special Events-- Valparaíso's famed New
Year's Pyrotechnic Festival is an event
so spectacular even Chileans consider
it something they must see at least once
in their lives(during the 2007 New Year,
the city shot for the Guinness Book of
World Records for the largest amount
of fireworks exploded in one evening-16,000). Thousands of partiers crowd the
streets and hilltops to take in the radiant
lights that explode over the shimmering bay.
You'll want to stake out your"corner" early
atop one of the hills. Savvy Chileans arrive
in the early afternoon and bring chairs,
barbecues, and a day's ration of food and
drink to save their viewing platform for the
nighttime fireworks display.
Travel Tips
Shopping
Travelers searching for that unique
something to bring home should make
a beeline to Tuten, Esmeralda 1140(tel.
32/221-7941; www.tuten.cl), a new
collective for regional artists and craftsmen
of the Valparaíso area. Within the walls of
Tuten, you'll find beautifully crafted, original,
and high-quality carved wood items; jewelry
handmade of glass, copper, and gold;
glassware such as vases and plates;
folksy art representing the Valparaíso area;
children's items; copper; and gold. It's open
Monday through Saturday from 9am to
9pm.
For books, guides, and maps, head to
the Fundación Valparaíso's Gato Tuerto
Café& Bookstore, Héctor Calvo 205(tel.
32/222-0867; Espíritu Santo Funicular),
which also has a small arts-and-crafts
store. Design For Valparaíso, Concepcion
154B(tel. 32/259-1868), has original
designs of textiles and clothing woven from
natural fibers found in Chile.
Planning a Trip
Getting There
By Bus-- Tur Bus(tel. 600/660-6600;
www.turbus.cl) and Pullman(tel.
2227-3125; www.pullman.cl) leave from
the Terminal Alameda in Santiago, located
at Av. Alameda 3750(Metro: Univ. de
Santiago), every 15 minutes from 6:30am
to 10:30pm(Tur Bus), and 6:10am to
10:10pm(Pullman). The trip takes about 1
hour and 15 minutes, depending on traffic,
and costs$8(£5.30). In Valparaíso, you'll
disembark at the terminal at Avenida Pedro
Montt; taxis are available and a good idea
at night-- it's possible to walk to the Cerro
Concepción funicular in approximately
20 to 30 minutes, but the neighborhood
surrounding the bus depot is pretty grimy.
Microbuses and collectives also run
frequently from outside the station to the
city center(60¢/40p). During weekends,
especially from December to March, it
is strongly recommended that you buy
your ticket in advance from any Tur Bus or
Pullman office in Santiago(your hotel can
give you the address of the nearest office).
By Car-- Valparaíso is reached by Rte.
68, a four-lane highway in good condition.
Driving to Valparaíso from Santiago is
quite easy: Take the Costanera Norte
headed west, and follow it all the way to
the coast(the Costanera turns into Rte.
68). There are two tolls along the way
that each cost 1,200 pesos($2.05/£1.35)
from Monday to 5pm on Friday, and 1,900
pesos($3.25/£2.15) from 5pm Friday to
Sunday. At Km 105, follow the signpost
for Valparaíso, taking Avenida Santos
Cossa. You'll enter Valparaíso and turn
23
Valparaiso Snapshot continued
onto Avenida Argentina, then turn onto
Avenida Pedro Montt, which will take you
to downtown. Hotels offer street parking
only. If visiting for the day, park in the
underground garage on Calle Errázuriz,
across from the Plaza Sotomayor, or at
Avenida Brasil and Bellavista. Do not leave
possessions in your car if you park it on the
street at night, as break-ins are common.
By Train-- The very sleek Metrotren(also
known as the"Merval"; tel. 32/238-1500)
connects Viña with Valparaíso(Plaza
Sotomayor), leaving every 5 to 10 minutes
from 7:30am to 10pm during weekdays,
and every 15 to 20 minutes from 9:30am to
9pm on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays.
To ride the train, you must purchase a
rechargeable card for$1(70p) that you then
charge with enough money to cover the
cost of your trip. If you're with friends or
family, you need only purchase one card for
your group. During summer, you can also
purchase aTarjeta Turista($8/£5.30), which
gives unlimited travel on the"Merval" for 3
days.
Getting Around
Walking is really the only way to see
Valparaíso; hilltop streets are confusing
and very tight to drive, so park downtown
and ride a funicular up. The only exception,
considering the strenuous uphill walk, is
the Pablo Neruda museum(La Sebastiana)
and the City Cemetery. There are
15ascensores(funiculars) that operate
daily from 6am to 11pm(15¢-30¢/10p-20p).
Theascensores, which most travelers will
wind up taking at some point, are: Cerro
Concepción, which runs from Calle Prat,
opposite the Turri clock tower, to the gilded
residential enclave of Paseo Gervasoni;
Ascensor Artillería, which runs from Plaza
Aduana to Paseo 21 de Mayo and usually
packs in tourists with mouths agape at
the sublime vistas; and the vertiginous
Ascensor Polanco, which runs from Calle
Almirante Simpson to Calle Latorre.
Visitor Information
The city's municipality has closed
its main tourist office and opened
two information kiosks, located in
the center of Plaza Sotomayer and
Plaza Anibal Pinto(tel. 32/293-9695;
www.municipalidaddevalparaiso.cl), open
Monday through Friday from 10am to 2pm
and 3:30 to 5:30pm, and Saturday and
Sunday from 10:30am to 5:30pm. There's
also an information kiosk at the bus station,
open daily from 8:30am to 5:30pm.
Guardia Vieja 255(tel. 2/244-2750;
www.santiagoadventures.com), offers day
trips from Santiago to Valparaíso(combined
with Viña) for$160(£107) per person,
based on two passengers and including
transportation, lunch, and a bilingual
tour. A cheaper option is Turis Tour(tel.
2/488-0444; www.turistour.com), which
runs tours from Santiago to Valparaíso
and Viña for$60/£40 and up. Given the
efficiency, frequency, and comfort of bus
transportation from Santiago to the coast,
however, you may prefer to travel to both
cities on your own.
The first bank in the country was in
Valparaíso, on Plaza Sotomayor, so it's
not surprising to discover that the city has
no shortage of financial services. Banks
and currency exchange can be found
along Calle Prat and Esmeralda Street.
Opening hours are more limited than in
Santiago; banks are open Monday to Friday
from 9am until 4pm. Most ATMs(cajeros
automáticos) are open 24 hours. For
medical emergencies, Hospital Carlos
Van Buren is at Av. San Ignacio 725(on the
corner of Colón; tel. 32/220-4000).
Santiago Adventures, in the Providencia
neighborhood of Santiago, at Av.
24

Top 10 Romantic Restaurants in Chile

Transcription

Similar documents

Santiago, Chile - Motion Metrics

Monterrey/Montemorelos – July, 2009 The central plaza, fountain

lntroduction - Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino

The Australian Way June 2015 - One Perfect Day Santiago

¿qué hacer en valparaíso y viña

Brochure

Santiago Capital City of Chile

Practical Information

bagan valparaíso

social networks and urban structure in santiago de chile