The Great War Diary of John Bruce Cairnie

The Great War Diary of John Bruce Cairnie
John Bruce Cairnie was born on 22 September
1889 in Thurso, Caithness, the third son of
David Dandie Cairnie, a Chemist in the town,
and Mary Wilson Bruce. His elder brothers were
Robert, born 1886, David Dandie, born 1887.
His sisters, Elizabeth and Mary were born in
1891 and 1898.
He attended the Miller Institution in Thurso and
Edinburgh University, where he graduated MA in
1911 and BSc in 1912. His interests were in
Botany and Geology. He then attended teachers'
training college.
He enlisted in the Seaforth Highlanders in
September 1914. In October 1917 he sailed to
join the 3/4th King's African Rifles with the rank
of Lieutenant.
His diary starts in 1915. He did not disclose the existence of the diary to his family
during his lifetime, and therefore did not participate in the decision to make it public.
His son and grandson have chosen to leave the text unmodified.
The transcription of the diary for 1915 and 1916 was carried out by J A (Jock) Bruce
who grew up in Thurso, Caithness and had set out to write a history of the 5th
Seaforths in World War One. Because of the extensive research he had done he
was able to provide insight into the persons and situations encountered by J B
Cairnie, who, after all, had no idea he was writing for an audience other than himself.
Mr Bruce's comments are asterisked through the text.
Any comments should be addressed to ([email protected]), or grandson, Bruce
Cairnie ([email protected]).
In September 1919 he started his teaching career in Golspie and in October 1921
moved south to Ayr Academy.
He later moved to Cumnock Academy where he completed his career, retiring in
1953. During his time in Ayrshire he maintained his interest in Thurso by keeping in
touch with family and friends and visiting in the summer. He kept in contact with his
comrades in the 5th Seaforths by attending the reunions. He died in 1977, and his
pawky sense of humour, and warmth of nature are missed by family and all who
knew him.
In 1930 he married Isabella Moodie and they had a son Alan Bruce Cairnie who
moved to Canada in 1967.
Two of John Bruce's great-grandsons wrote in 2003, as part of a Royal Canadian
Legion competition, the following compositions:
What Remembrance Day Means to Me
by Angus Cairnie, aged 12.
The order comes from the generals;
The tanks halt, the only sound is from the gulls.
The shells stop, the guns are stilled,
The bombs stop blasting, people remember those killed.
Memories come, unstoppable as a flood,
Weep, weep and free the earth of blood,
Tears flow, wash away the sadness.
Thousands died to clean the world of badness.
War is the knife, blood is the lives and peace the tourniquet,
Remember, never forget and feel the pain as battle lines met.
Love peace and never let this happen again,
Restrain your anger and don't unleash again this pain.
Stop the artillery, silence the guns.
No need any more to slay the Huns.
Call back the tanks, land the planes,
Time to stop the advance across the plains.
We've stopped the holocaust,
The massive total human cost.
The time to mourn now is best,
More death than we could have guessed.
So today is the day that we remember.
Because war can be a glowing ember,
At the thought of war we stand aghast,
And Remembrance Day will always last.
Remembrance Day Essay
by Malcolm Cairnie, aged 11
A class is sitting in an assembly for Remembrance Day. One kid whispers to
another, "What's this Remembrance Day thing about, anyway? The other kid replies,
"I think it's something for dead soldiers or something".
True. But that isn't the half of it. Remembrance Day is a time to remember the brave
men in World War 1 and World War 2 who died fighting against evil and tyranny.
Veterans come, too, to pay their respects to their lost comrades. In World War 1, we
fought against Germany. In World War 2, we fought the Axis - a group of countries
that included Germany, Japan, Italy, and Austria. All of these were formidable
enemies, but each time we triumphed. This does not take away the terrible reality of
millions of deaths on both sides, and war is equally horrible no matter who wins.
Some questions the little kid in the first paragraph might ask are:
Why do we wear a poppy?
We wear a poppy to honour dead soldiers. Poppies grew on many men's graves so it
was adopted as a Remembrance Day symbol.
Why do we have a moment of silence?
On November 11th the peace treaty for World War 1 was signed. The minute the
order 'Cease fire' was given, a silence fell over all. Today we use these two minutes
to think about peace.
Why did these men go to war?
There were various reasons. Some went for the salary. Others went for the
adventure and excitement. Then some went to be with family and friends. Many went
to fight for their country and freedom. Whatever the reason, we can be sure there are
more dead soldiers than veterans.
War is a gruesome prospect, and we must always try to find a better way. Most
minor conflicts can be settled by negotiations, but sometimes war is necessary.
Whatever any soldier does, he or she must only fight for freedom and justice. So
before you go rampaging off to battle, think. Is there anything else we can do to
help? Do we have to kill? There is almost always a solution other than violence, and
it is up to us to find it.
1915 (5th Seaforths)
IN THE RANKS
The origins of the 5th Seaforths lay in the Sutherland Highland Rifle Volunteers,
raised in Sutherland and Caithness in 1859/60 as part of a country wide enthusiasm
for part-time soldiering inspired by fears of French invasion. In 1908 the old volunteer
force became the Territorial Force and the SHRV became the 5th (Sutherland and
Caithness Highland) Battalion, The Seaforth Highlanders (TF).
They were mobilised on 4 August 1914 and together with the 4th (Ross Highland)
and 6th (Moray) Battalions, Seaforth Highlanders and the 4th Queens Own Cameron
Highlanders, from Inverness-shire, they formed the Seaforth and Cameron Brigade
of the Highland Division.
After a couple of weeks spent improving coastal defences at Cromarty (which
protected the naval base at Invergordon) the brigade moved with the rest of the
division to Bedford, where they were billeted in private houses.
The commitment made by TF soldiers pre-war was to serve for home defence only.
On the outbreak of war most men made the additional commitment to serve
overseas although some, for various reasons (age, business or family commitments,
etc.), chose not to.
In September 1915 a second battalion of the 5th Seaforths was formed, as it was in
all TF regiments. The 'first line' battalion - 1/5 Seaforth - at Bedford contained men
willing to serve overseas; the 'second line' or reserve battalion - 2/5 Seaforth - at
Golspie consisted of men who had not signed the overseas commitment, were not fit
for overseas service and recruits surplus to the requirements of the first line
battalion.
It had always been expected that the TF would require 6 months training before
being fit for overseas operations. In fact, 1/4 Seaforth went overseas in November
1914 and 1/4 Camerons in February 1915, being replaced in the brigade by 1/6 and
1/8 Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders.
TF infantry battalions were, at the outbreak of war, still organised in eight companies
- an organisation little changed from Napoleonic times. Regular battalions had
adopted a four company organisation in 1913.
Judging by his regimental number (3471) John Bruce Cairnie enlisted in September
1914. The popular image of men flocking to the colours on 4 August 1914 isn't really
accurate - the peak of recruiting was actually a few weeks after the outbreak of war.
At the start of the diary he was serving in E Company (the pre-war Thurso company)
as a Lance Sergeant - this was an appointment, not a rank. His actual rank was
Corporal; a Lance appointment was usually a prelude to further promotion.
January 1915
19 January 1915
Company drill from 9:30 to 1 p.m. It would get rather feding up if we had much of it.
An hour of 'cross-tig' relieved the monotony. In the afternoon, bayonet fighting for
NCOs, and then a lecture by Sergt-Major*. Very busy all evening and got up to
orderly room by 11:30.
*Sergeant Major Donald Sutherland, pre-war regular instructor with the Wick company and appointed
Sergeant Major on 20 Nov 14 when the previous incumbent was commissioned.
20 January 1915
Wakened by reveille. Mac* lazy as he hadn't been in bed till 2:30 a.m. Route march
to Turvey, somehow I felt less fit than usual. The company marched well going out,
but coming in when No. 1 section were leading there was no step in it. 20 men on
the sick-list this morning, mostly with chest-colds. No cases of measles in our
Company today, but one death in 'G'**. The Colonel*** and Maj Sinclair**** left for a
fortnight at home tonight. Still there is no word of leave for us.
th
*Ian Douglas McLennan, Bank clerk from Thurso, where his father was a minister. Joined 5 Seaforth
pre-war, killed in action (KIA) 15 Jun 15.
**In early 1915 the Highland Division suffered an outbreak of measles - this caused a number of
deaths, particularly among men from the remoter areas of the Highlands.
th
***Lt Col James John Davidson, Farmer at West Watten, Caithness. Second-in-command of 5
Seaforth pre-war. Assumed command of 1/5 Seaforths on 7 Sep 14 - his predecessor commanded
2/5 Seaforths from its formation.
****Maj Donald Sinclair, Farmer at Stemster, Caithness. Second-in-command of 1/5 Seaforths. Prewar officer.
21 January 1915
Slept in this morning and had a bit of a rush. Black* was orderly officer and I think
did ditto as I saw him passing down at 8:30 in very squalid and untidy condition.
Company drill under Joe Robertson** with Ritson*** in the background and a military
funeral in the neat ['over the wall' inserted above last phrase]. Quite cheerful sounds
on the pipes.
It rained all afternoon so the NCOs got a lecture from Ritson and Black consisting of
reading aloud extracts from 'Notes from the Front'. Ritson seems to have a good
grasp of theory at any rate but too excitable.
Margaret and her mother at tea.
Mac got his Corporal strips tonight, dating back to 12th December so he draws a big
pay. He's chucking things about in the kitchen now. I am writing this in the lavvy as
Jimmie was in our house in one of his frequent states of fed-up-ness.
One death in 'A' today, and I believe 2 in 'H' yesterday.
th
*Lt Alexander William Black. Agricultural lecturer. Commissioned in 5 Seaforth Oct 14.
**Capt Josiah James Robertson. Motor dealer at Wick, Caithness. Pre-war officer.
***Capt Joseph Ritson. Banker at Thurso. Pre-war officer.
22 January 1915
There was nearly a mutiny this morning when the men were told to parade with their
equipment which still wringing wet on. The Adjie* wouldn't give in but when half the
battalion paraded without it he had to send them back for an hour to get great coats.
Route-march round by Rinhold and Cleat Hill raining most of the way. I enjoyed it
very much.
Afternoon pay and rations. Lecture from Sergt-Major. He thought this about wet
equipment - 'a damn good joke'. He insisted on punctuality on parade, which is
certainly necessary. Our men aren't smart enough yet at turning out. Mac sleeping
up in Orderly Room tonight as he got a little slap last night because Gwyneth had a
bad throat - mostly sham I'm thinking. She was alright today and Pitman** was in her
room till after 10:30 p.m.
nd
*Capt Norman Charles Orr. As Adjutant, the only regular officer in 1/5 Seaforths. Commanded 2
Seaforths later in war. Murdered by tribesmen near Landikotal (NW Frontier) 8th April 1923.
**2Lt Arthur Frederick Edward Pitman. From Edinburgh. Capt Orr's brother-in-law. Commissioned in
th
5 Seaforths Sep 14. KIA serving in Royal Flying Corps 3 Jan 18.
24 January 1915
We went to St Paul's Church and English Church boys. Delighted to get my spell of
Orderly Sergeant over and so was Mac. Along at tea with Rev Herbert Reid* and met
Davidson McKenzie and Miss Strang. The former isn't such a great bug as I used to
think him, nor as he thinks himself. No side about the Rev Hubert.
*Rev Hubert Reid. Minister in Thurso. Later served in France as Army chaplain.
25 January 1915
Tonight I was on Town-picket - the High St, with 4 men of 'B' and had a very good
time.
26 January 1915
Platoon drill and bayonet fighting this morning with pack and ammunition. Two of 'C'
Company with about 20 others left this afternoon with ammunition and blankets for
unknown destination. Everybody much excited and much speculation as to where
they are going to and what it may mean for the battalion. Rumours of Edinburgh
Castle or Inverness.
After afternoon parade I found myself and 2 of 'C' detailed to go on similar duty.
Russell was picked and Jim Matheson. We paraded in 15 minutes, expecting great
things and feeling very big. It turned out to be picket duty at Herring Green
crossroads with orders to stop all cars and take number, etc. This result of last
Zeppelin raid as the airships are thought to have been guided by cars with powerful
headlights.
We barricaded the road with carts and took turns - 2hours on and 4 hours off. Not
very exciting and very cold, but more exciting than platoon drill. My first experience
at sleeping out and none too pleasant, but I think it wouldn't kill me.
27 January 1915
The Kaiser's Birthday - bless 'im!
Got into Bedford at 9 a.m. after rather a smart walk. Slept from 10 to 12 and paraded
again at 3 for the same duty as yesterday. Mac rather annoyed as I didn't tell him
where we were, but he had a pretty good ideal all the same. Our officers say they
heard an airship of some sort over Bedford last night but nobody seems to have
seen it. We got out to Cardington at 4 p.m. and took up our quarters this time at the
Pub - The Anchor Inn. It is a very cold night and like snow, but Pitman got tea for us
here and if it wasn't for the skittles we might have a very good time. Tonight we got
order to turn back every motor car or m. bike, so things are soon interesting.
28 January 1915
We took up our positions again at 4:30. I had from 6 to 8 and 12 to 2. A fine night,
coldish but dry. The time passed very quickly, sitting very comfortably in a cart of
straw. Jim getting on my nerves with his songs or rather his song. He has improved
though with the change of work and under strenuous conditions might be a keen
man. Pitman had to sleep by the roadside as he was the only one who knew the
password.
No cars were to be turned back, except officers who hadn't the password. Very little
doing - they seem to be avoiding the place.
29 January 1915
Got in to Bedford at 8:30 and as we got word that our special duty is now at an end
we had a free day. I was down town in the morning and again on special pass at
night. Went to 'Grumpy' which was very good. The best thing I have seen here so
far.
30 January 1915
I was helping W. Ritson today with the billets as his clerk is on leave. I shouldn't care
for his job, or his clerk's either. R. can be very disagreeable when he wants. In the
afternoon I played soccer for 'E' v 'G'. We beat them 8-1. It wasn't a great match but I
was delighted to be playing football once again. I think I must be as fit now as ever I
was.
Today the new double company system was inaugurated and henceforth we form,
along with 'F', the new 'C'. We are all sorry to bid goodbye to the old state of affairs,
which seemed to work very well, and in which we were all very happy. We aren't
keen on 'F'* as they are a pretty rough and coarse crowd, but no doubt will improve
on acquaintance.
*F Company was the pre-war Wick company - the inhabitants of Thurso regarded those of Wick as
'dirty Weekers' (and still do!).
31 January 1915
I had made up my mind to get a lot of letters written today, but only managed three.
Church Parade in the morning and we got a good sermon from the Cameron
chaplain. He always makes an impression and rivets the attention of the men:
reminds me in voice and manner of Daniel S Calderwood. In the evening I went to
Corn Exchange Concert but was asleep most of the time.
February 1915
1 February 1915
Paraded under company arrangements - company drill and physical exercises in the
forenoon and musketry in afternoon. I find I have forgotten most of the musketry and
expect that most of the NCOs are in the same box. I put Davidson onto my squad he was a musketry instructor.
Ian and I went and had out photographs taken again and I hope they will be more
successful than the last. We went to 'Brewster's Millions' with Mrs. Platts. Mac is
living up to, if not beyond his pay - a very bad habit. His late hours must tell him
sooner or later and if he doesn't chuck them soon I will speak to Mrs. Platts.
2 February 1915
Parade at 7:45. Marched round by Wilden Shrubbery and Sevick End with
ammunition 120 rounds. Pace very hot and atmosphere muggy in the extreme. The
whole division was on the road and marched past Sir Ian Hamilton* at Goldington
Green We marched past very well and I hope made a good impression. Kept a
perfect step from Goldington to Clarendon St.
Soccer match between 'C' and 'D' ended 3 all although we had the best of the game.
Got a little writing done tonight but still have heaps to do.
*General Sir Ian Hamilton (1853-1947). Entered army in 1873. Saw action in numerous theatres and
rose to become Colonel in 1891. Promoted to Lieutenant-General during Boer War, and held
succession of senior commands, culminating in General Officer Commanding in Chief Mediterranean
(1910-1915). Promoted to full General in 1914, and commanded Mediterranean Expeditionary Force
at the Dardanelles ('Gallipoli') until October 1915.
3 February 1915
Parade at 8:45, for a concentration route march to Sevick Farm. Our company went
by Goldington and Water-end. The marching was very good. After we got to Sevick
each company went on its own for some extended order work. No. 1 platoon was in
reserve, under George Forbes* and got wiped out by being too far up and coming
under fire in artillery formation. I don't think that my section, of 8 men, would have
suffered so severely.
In the evening we were at Dr Bell's for dinner and progressive whist. A lovely house
and very hospitable people; especially as they had never seen a lot of us before.
There were 20 of us, mostly Englishmen. Bailey and Mac sang. One of the 4th home
from the front was thereHe's not keen on going back.
*Sgt George Sinclair Forbes from Thurso. Later served in Army Service Corps.
th
**1/4 Seaforth Highlanders were one of several units extracted from the Highland Division and sent
to France in late 1914.
4 February 1915
Today I was helping Ritson to pay the billets. This is rather monotonous work, only
Ritson's arithmetic is occasionally diverting. What neat, clean house most of the
people keep - 'We're poor but we like to be tidy and comfortable". R. was in better
tune today. Mac, Addie and Jim digging drains all day at Harrowden Range, came
back dead tired.
Jim is trying for a commission in one of the Reserve Battalions or more preferably
the 5th.
I hear Willie Torrance is not expected to get better - pneumonia. Am very sorry for
his mother.
Got a 'permanent' pass till Tuesday from Ritson and went down town. Had an
unsatisfactory evening and will not waste another in the same way. Mac is for his
first quarter guard tomorrow and I have been coaching him. Had a very cheery letter
today from Louise.
5 February 1915
With Ritson again paying the billets. He bangs into the houses in the most
unceremonious fashion, but all over today he wasn't unsympathetic. It's when he is
crossed in the least little detail that he loses his rag: and he can't abide to be chaffed.
Jim Miller* who was more than half tight and was in seeing Nanna, has somewhat
raised my hopes of a commission, but I don't know I want one. I wonder whether
Ritson has not an inkling of it and is not trying to get the billeting job shifted onto my
shoulders. I wouldn't have it at any price. I hear there are 8 vacancies - Jim says the
Colonel has been speaking to him on the QT.
*James Miller - probably the 'Jim' and 'Jimmie' mentioned earlier. From Scrabster. Brother-in-law of Lt
Col Davidson. Served in Boer War as regular soldier, living in Canada at outbreak of war and returned
th
to enlist. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths 18 Mar 15. Died 31 Jul 18, in part as result of war service.
6 February 1915
More billet-paying today. I thought that I was going to have the afternoon off but
Ritson was anxious to get on with the work, so we on till 4 p.m.
Then I went down town, had tea and went to the Chums and to the Palace, enjoyed
myself in a quiet way. The Chums are getting on my nerves: they aren't a bit clever -
except for Harold Johnson himself. I can't make out whether he is acting a part of
not.
7 February 1915
Church parade at 7:35 and didn't move off till 8:20 - absurd. Sermon quite good from
the thin man.
Helped Ritson an hour or two with his books and wasted the afternoon reading a
novel.
Wrote home after tea, but didn't give them any idea that leave is starting as we may
be disappointed. Escorted Margaret home on my way to the Corn Exchange
Concert. I rather like her, but don't know her well enough.
Mac and Gwyneth are downstairs now singing - howling rag tunes and making
hideous the Sabbath evening.
8 February 1915
Billeting again and got a good deal done in the afternoon. At three Ritson had an
appointment and that spoiled us.
Went down town and examined Hockliffe's secondhand bookshop: picked up one or
two geological book of an ancient order. Also A.W. Russell's "World of Life". Had tea
and went to the Whip. The staging rather ambitious but not bad considering the
amount of space at their disposal. Mac is going North on Wednesday and is in
correspondingly good form. Met Scott tonight in High St - of Edin. Battery.* He's a
L/Cpl in the 4th Gordons.
*Probably the artillery unit of Edinburgh University Officer Training Corps.
9 February 1915
Blank
10 February 1915
Mac left today for seven days leave. Harcus* went too. They were very cheery.
Ritson and I went down to the station and afterwards to the Empire, he standing me
in. Not bad but rather vulgar.
Weighed myself at the station: found I have put on nearly a stone since coming down
but that is with the kilt instead of trousers. Am now 10st 3 lbs in uniform.
*Sgt William Harcus from Scrabster. Later served Labour Corps.
11 February 1915
Billets all day: am beginning to like the work, and also to be very lazy in the
mornings.
Along to Mrs. Campion's at night and played bridge with the girls. They are quite
good and I like them. I can't stand complicated girls.
12 February 1915
Paid the last of the billets today and another rummage with Ritson in Hockliffe's old
books, but didn't get anything. Worked in R's billet in the afternoon, arranging the
forms. Had a yarn with Mrs. Mortimer.
Nothing doing at night it has been very cold all day, and I haven't got decently
warmed up once.
13 February 1915
A wet rotten day with sleet. Slimed [?] in the Orderly Room most of the morning. In
the afternoon played Ellis at Chess and he wiped me: we are about evenly matched he's probably a little better than me.
After tea, went to The Chums with Ritson - he paying. Programme not bad.
The Colonel interviewed a lot of fellows today, with a view to commissions - in this
battalion. He didn't take me, which is either a very hopeful sign - or a hopeless one. I
think Ritson is trying to wangle me in for his present job, but he won't manage it.
14 February 1915
Muggy and wet. Church parade at 8:45. Got a very good sermon from the Cameron
chaplain. Got a word from Willie for wearing my khaki hosetops on dress parade.
Felt ratty at him.
Wrote home; and spent afternoon in Ritson's doing company drill with matches. He
has the double company this week as Joe R is on furlough; and he's nervous about
it. Went down to Church in the evening but so late. Went to Corn Exchange Concert
- quite good. A fine soprano, and Blake of the Camerons.
15 February 1915
Cold and bright. Battalion moved off at 9:30 and marched out about five miles
towards Turvey. From there advanced cross-country in artillery formation for a mile
and a half or so. Poll and I had a platoon to ourselves. We finished up with an
advance in open order, of a very ragged sort. We badly need training in extended
order. Ritson in his element, his language too grandiloquent. Some of the fields very
soft and claggy. Marched about six miles home and arrived at 4:30.
In orders tonight, extract from King's Regulations which seems to say we must not
shave upper lip - whiskers moderate if any.
Jim had a row with Gwyneth and then with Nanna. How absurd we can all be.
16 February 1915
Another magnificent day - the sun is getting quite warm. 'C' marched out to
Bromham Bridge and then took up an outpost position to cover it. Had charge of a
picket and got on quite well. Willie and Black were the only officers out. We lay down
for a couple of hours and then marched round by Stevington and the Stagsden road.
The pace was a little hot and even Willie was a little pegged. He doesn't seem to
remember we carry more than he does. No one fell out but Addie had blistered feet
and no doubt there are others. Got in at 3:30. Most enjoyable and healthy day.
Down town in the evening for a few necessaries and spent the rest of the time
getting my kit packed. I don't feel the least bit excited about going home. Jim cooked
some haggis and it's lying heavy on my stomach now.
17 February 1915
It turned out wet today - so wet that the battalion didn't go out. I was glad as I had all
my things clean and ready for the journey. We left about 8 o'clock at night, marching
down to the station in great form and best of spirits.
18 - 24 February 1915
Blank
25 February 1915
Got into Bedford about 9 a.m. Coming up Clarendon St we found the remnants of the
Company (8) already paraded and George* in the middle of them waving wildly. I
had expected him to be much older looking: instead of that he is just the same as
when he went out. I thought that we would be getting off parade but the Adjie sent for
us and we had to follow up the Company. Drill in close order all morning.
Afternoon off.
At 4:30 parade for outpost duty. We marched out to Stagsden; a lovely night, bright
moonlight and George and I had plenty to speak about all the way. We were put out
under Harcus, as a screen to the position, and then withdrawn as the supports. The
Colonel came along and said support should entrench - which I doubt. Pretty cold
waiting about, but a stiff march in warmed us up plenty: me nearly asleep on the
march, and glad to get to bed.
*George Alexander, native of Thurso. Working as a bank clerk in Canada at the outbreak of war and
returned to enlist. KIA 15 Jun 15. 'Out' is usually a reference to service in France, but I think this is
more likely to be a reference to Canada.
26 February 1915
Marched out past the Swan Inn, and fought out to Stagsden. A perfect day. George
is very keen. Most of the way was through woods with thorny undergrowth. Our
section finished up with what appeared to me a very knutty* piece of strategy, but the
Adjie galloped up and put half of us out of action.
Drew 42/7 today for the last 2 weeks. Am feeling rather depressed today - no doubt
a reaction after furlough and even George's presence can't shake it off altogether.
Regular fed up with the family.
*Clever, elegant?? Probably a reference to the popular song 'I'm Gilbert the Filbert, the Colonel of
Knuts' - ‘Knut’ was generally ‘a dandy, a fashionable or showy young man’ (OED, Partridge) and a
jocular variant of ‘nut’.
27 February 1915
Laurie* and I got a swearing from the Adjie today because he saw some of the men
scratching their faces when they were at attention. He's getting very snotty about
details, so I suppose we'll have to stiffen up too.
Company out in the field above the Cemetery, practicing bayonet charging against
sacks of straw. The sacks were set up as an extended line: good fun but not far good
as instruction went: not enough ground. George was at musketry instruction in Mod.
School Park, and was pretty fed up with standing about.
In the afternoon we went to Rugby Match, and at night George and Ian and I were
down town on pass. We had tea in Dudeney & Johnson's; went to the Chums and
enjoyed ourselves very much. The 'ass' is very like George. Went to the second
house of the Empire.
*Probably Donald Manson Laurie, from Thurso.
28 February 1915
Dreamt last night the Adjie told me he wouldn't recommend me for a commission. I
gave him a bit of my mind.
Church parade today at 8:45, to the Baptist Chapel. Quite a good sermon on
sacrifice: church done up inside like an ice-cream shop.
After dinner Geo, Ian, Addie and I walked out to the Swan, ordered tea and went on
round by Stagsden. A perfect day, as clear as any we have had here for a long time.
Coming back from Stagsden we were hailed by the tract-delivering parson, so we
took to our heels. He wanted us up to tea - judging from his gesticulations, so went
back and explained and received a few tracts. George wild we couldn't accept his
invitation, as the daughter seemed 'a peach'.
Tea at the Swan: the landlord rather unpleasant about tossing. Walked home: Geo.
sent Addie sprawling.
March 1915
1 March 1915
Started running drill at 7:15 this morning, the Sergeant-Major leading. Going on
parade at 8:45, Capt Ritson bagged me for billeting staff. I wasn't sorry to go as it
made my position secure for tonight. I let him know I wouldn't have his job if I get a
commission, and he said M'Intosh in the orderly room would likely be put onto it. So
that's all right, and I have my pass. Didn't get a lot of billets done as there were a lot
of mistakes owing to furlough, etc.
Went down town at 6:30 as arranged and saw The Girl from Utah. It was about the
best thing I have seen here - certainly the best musical comedy. The actresses were
pretty, and almost proper. I like Kitty very much: nice and quiet.
2 March 1915
Running drill at 7:15. Paying billets with Ritson and Sandy Ross. The latter's services
were requisitioned in order that the Captain might be saved the labour of writing out
the amended forms.
3 March 1915
This was to be a divisional day but turned out wet so we turned in. Had a reading in
the office, and a short route march in the afternoon round by Oakley and Bromhaw.
At night we were hauled out to a concert nobody wanted to go to. It turned out to be
a dancing display by some school kids very good in its way but not the sort of meat
and drink the Army wants. One little girl of 9 was a splendid turn - comic songs, etc.
and should make her name.
4 March 1915
Running drill at 7:15 paraded in full marching order at 8:15. We marched out to
Stagsden and from there advanced cross country towards Stevington, in extended
order the whole way. The 6th Seaforth were on our immediate right and we got
rather boxed up against the road which was the left flank boundary. Marched in from
Stevington, 'C' company next the band. Willie was paying great attention to covering
today.
Went down town tonight to the Picture-drome. Came back early. Gwyneth has had
toothache for the last two or three days and Mac and George have had to take turns
at holding her hand.
5 March 1915
Running drill at 7:15. Battalion parade at 9:15 for trenching. We had only to go up
above the Cemetery and had a pretty slack day. Our squad practised entrenching
with the small tools - the first time we have used them. The Brigadier was knocking
about. We had 35 minutes to cook and eat our dinner and were back to work again
till after four.
After tea I wrote home. George and Ian are both 'out' as regards the house and
doubt if they will ever smell it again.
6 March 1915
We had a so-called medical inspection at nine. It consisted of our new M.O. walking
briskly along the ranks and studying the men's' boots. At 10 we marched up to
Clapham Park to get into the trenches again. We had two shifts and Willie was for
making us do handling of arms when we came out of the trench. However we
marched them to the hedge and sat down. He is probably the most unpopular officer
in the battalion now: he used to be the most popular. 'F' Company vow to school him
when we get into action.
Jim Miller, Blake* and I had to parade to the Brigade Office at 3 p.m. and interviewed
the Brigadier. The Brigadier was quite affable and signed our papers.
Cambridge played the Highland Division at Rugger this afternoon and got beaten.
Cambridge had a very poor team they didn't seem to have played much together,
and looked rather a rag-a-muffin bunch.
George and Ian on pass tonight.
*Stanley Melville Blake. An insurance inspector from London. One of many young, white-collar
th
Londoners (with varying claims to Scottishness) who enlisted in the 5 Seaforths in Sep 14.
7 March 1915
Church parade at 8:20. Good sermon from the new chaplain. The Camerons have
already had some casualties. Took Orderly Sergt's work over for the day as Laurie
was B.O.S. so that I didn't get out of the billeting area. Wrote Rob Alexander.
Black and Howie* were in to supper.
th
*Howard Gerry. Law clerk from Thurso. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Nov 14.
8 March 1915
Running drill at 7:15. Very cold, and snowing slightly. George not on duty yet as he
was inoculated on Saturday. Company drill was cancelled and battalion went out for
a route march - Milton Ernest, Filimousham, Pavenham, Stevington and Oakley. A
splendid day for marching - cold and bracing and blinks of warm sun between the
showers of small snow. The buds are on the hedges. The Company marched well
today, and with a little care on the part of some NCOs - especially Laurie and
McAdie* we would have a good marching coy.
Dinner at 3 p.m.: afternoon tea in the park and then again in 21. 'M' arrived this
morning to Ian's discomfiture who was in Gwyneth’s bedroom at the time. He has
come from China to join. It will be interesting to watch developments.
th
*David Alister Alexander McAdie. Grain merchant from Thurso. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Nov
th
16. KIA serving in 8 Seaforths Aug 17.
9 March 1915
Marched out to near Stagsden and did the same scheme as on Thursday's last. This
time we were the supports and had a most pleasant cross-country ramble - more like
a botanical excursion than a sham fight.
10 March 1915
Had the parade S_a_ [?] etc. in good time, having been up at 6. Marched out
towards Colmworth and division attacked Gordons in the direction of Milton Ernest.
When we just beginning - I was with the supports, the Adjie came and ordered me to
take the pack-ponies to the ammunition column.
I managed to catch them up after about an hour’s march. Then we stood for several
hours on the road, very cold. Moved forward and came abreast two batteries in
action. No sign of our battalion and I believe the commander of the column had quite
lost touch with most of the infantry including ours The 6th lost touch with the 5th and
seem to have lost themselves into the bargain.
Had a good march home, fine exhilarating weather. Got in after 4, one of the longest
days we've had.
11 March 1915
With J. Ritson today, working all morning in the Orderly Room. Wonder if I'll take as
badly to laboratory work as I do to office work. In the afternoon we paid some
outlying billets, in a very lackadaisical state. JJR infects me that way.
Had tea in the pavilion with George and Ian, and Dolly sat and gassed till we were
fair fed up. Nanna is jealous. Went down town to the Picture-drome.
Hear Major McMillan* told Willie of in the mess last night. Willie gets more unpopular
every day. McMillan told him to look out when he got to France.
*Maj Angus Leith McMillan. Customs officer from Dalmore. Pre-war officer. Known to all as 'Faither'.
12 March 1915
Quite a good day, and did practically no work. I was in the Orderly Room till about
10, then went down town and spent the rest of the forenoon looking round the 2nd
hand bookshop. Didn't see anything good.
After dinner went with Ritson and Ian to the Bank and was free at 3 p.m. Had tea in
the pavilion.
After tea at 21 I wrote home and found my diary a great help. Black was in practising
songs tonight and has settled on 'My Old Shako'. He hasn't got a voice or a
temperament for it and woes me playing for him and Gwyneth, I hear they are going
to rag Willie.
13 March 1915
With Ritson in Foster Hill Rd estimating the damage done by the men in some of the
empty houses. A good deal of damage, much of it apparently wilful, but I believe
nothing to what has been the case in some of the Morayshire billets. Banisters,
wainscoting, etc burnt up and marble mantelpieces in smithereens, but I didn't see
any as bad as that.
Concert at night a great success. Black didn't turn up for which I was sincerely
thankful. Gwyneth surprised me, singing so well. Cowper of the Groat was down for
the occasion and was quite successful in one or two of his songs, though they were
of the usual antediluvian order. Willie and Ritson both sang, but very nervous. Willie
got a good reception. The Sergt-Major danced the Highland Fling.
14 March 1915
Church parade at 8:45. A new chaplain this morning and he had a husky throat. Not
nearly so much coughing in Church now. Tea in the pavilion relieved the monotony
of the day.
Went to St. Paul's with George at night and were shown into a front seat, where our
ignorance of the service must have been most apparent.
15 March 1915
Went out to Harrowden for field practices. Fifteen rounds per man at ranges from
600 to 300. Disappearing targets up for 35 secs and down for the same. Not very
realistic but better than ordinary butt-shooting. Very easy to forget adjustment of
sights. Our detail - with Donnie Dunnet,* Poll, Laurie, etc had a long way the best
score.
Was down town but nothing doing.
th
*Donald Dunnet. Motor repairer from Thurso. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Apr 15. KIA 15 Jun 15.
16 March 1915
Divisional practice today - that of Wednesday 10th revived, with the 6th we held a
position E of Milton Ernest. Whole 5th were out as a screen for the rest of Division.
Willie spoilt it by moving from the right of our company's front to the extreme left,
taking his platoon with him and consequently left a gap through which the enemy
penetrated. Perhaps he wasn't to blame - haven't heard his side of the matter yet.
Anyway we had all to retire in double time and at one point were almost taken. Not at
all a brilliant affair, but very difficult to gauge what the results would be in the real
thing. Got home on four o'clock, pretty hungry.
Went down town at night. Pitman was in tonight saying we are down to move in six
week’s as a Division. I say# there have already gone over 2 or 3 Territorial Divisions.
Hope we are sent to the Dardanelles.
17 March 1915
Examined some of the empty houses today with Ritson. A good deal of damage
done in some cases, but others well looked after. Over at the Park for tea. The
Battalion went out at 6 for night marching, but I went down town, having slight
neuralgia.
COMMISSIONED
In 1915 this was a relatively informal affair.
Candidates for regular commissions continued to
attend Sandhurst, but in the case of the Territorial
Force and the units of the 'New Armies' raised since
the outbreak of war, there was no centralised
selection or training of young officers.
JBC would have applied for a commission on the
standard army form and been recommended by Lt
Col Davidson. He
would have been required to produce a copy of his
birth certificate, references as to his standard of
education and his moral character (usually a
minister or a JP) and would have been interviewed
by his brigade commander.
For the TF, the final approval word at this stage
would have been with the County Territorial
Association in Caithness - the group of local
worthies who oversaw the TF units from their area.
Taken just before commissioning
Once everything was approved, the only formal procedure was the announcement of his
commissioning in the London Gazette. At this point he would have been discharged from the 5th
Seaforths 'in consequence of being appointed to a commission'.
It was then up to his regiment to train him - and in early 1915 there was very little knowledge in the
Highland Division of the practicalities of soldiering in France.
18 March 1915
Was just going on parade this morning when Ian and Jim Miller came to tell me I had
been gazetted. Miller and Blake are too. I wasn't a bit glad in fact it almost brought
tears to my eyes to think that I must give up all my friends. George was very decent
and tried to pretend he was glad but I know he isn't. I had to go and put on 'civies'
which I had taken care to keep by me. Queer it feels to be in them again. Spent most
of the day about the streets and transferring my things to Mrs. Mortimer's where I am
to be billeted.
Went to lunch at the Mess with Ritson, and met most of the officers. It is much more
free and easy than I had expected. Took a box of cigars up to the office and found
Jim Miller carting up 4 bottles of Johnnie Walker. He was well screwed, and would
have me go over to the Mess with him which I did until I found him going in the
kitchen door, then I made my escape. Am sleeping this last night with George.
19 March 1915
Breakfast at the Mess and glad to get decent Scotch porridge and cold milk in my
mouth again. Got leave to go to Glasgow for seven days, so am leaving tonight.
Spent a wearisome day, unsettled, half in and half out of 21.
Left by the 9:13 with Mowat* of the Machine Gun He is engaged to Mary Stewart.
Left him at Rugby. The 4th Seaforth have been badly cut up, and 4th Camerons
also#, so the officers' dance which was to be tonight is cancelled.
th
*William George Mowat. Draper from Lybster, Caithness. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Jan 15 and
served as Machine Gun Officer. Later to Machine Gun Corps.
20 March 1915
Arrived Glasgow 7:30. Breakfasted at YMCA. Ordered uniform at Moore, Taggert's*
and then started to hunt for Daisy. Found her (out) after an hour and a half's
searching.
Met John Budge and had lunch with him at Miss Cranston's. He's a quaint bird but
looking more spruce than I've seen him.
Got Daisy and Tina** in at 2:30 and we went to tea together and then they saw me
off from Queen's St. Arrived Crossgates*** and found Bessie**** here: also the
spring-cleaning.
*Newly commissioned officers received an allowance of £50 to buy uniform. Moore, Taggert were
th
actually regimental outfitters to the Argyle & Sutherland Highlanders, but since the 5 wore kilts of
Sutherland tartan (unlike the McKenzie tartan of other Seaforth battalions) they also used Moore,
Taggert.
**Possibly Tina Keith of Thurso.
***Robert Cairnie (1856 - 1935), uncle of JBC was a chemist at Crossgates.
****Elizabeth Cairnie (1891 - 1963), sister of JBC.
21 March 1915
Walked to the Goat Brae with uncle in the forenoon - a blustering day, and a good
deal of slushy snow on the roads. Uncle is a very good walking companion. Bob*
came along in the afternoon and was surprised find Bessie and me here.
*Robert Cairnie (1885 - 1971), brother of JBC.
22 March 1915
Cycled down to Donibristle Ho. this morning. A lovely soft day, but colder later on.
The country side is pretty just now and wreaths of snow behind the hedges give it
extra colour. Found Donald McKay* superintending the physical exertions of the
men. He had a half day off, so I stayed till after tea. They are mounting 2 9.2 [inch]
guns on Braefoot Pt. where he will be stationed when they are completed: at present
the guns are 3 days overdue having be[en] shipped from Woolwich. Ship not since
heard of. Probably another case of false economy. D.W.M. seems well content with
his lot, and if he gets obedience from the men I should think it is more by taking it for
granted than by exacting it.
Got up to Xgates at 5:30, against a stiff breeze and after reconnoitring a few
imaginary positions. Went along by car to Lochgelly, with the intention of returning
again, but didn't. Had two games of chess with Bob - successfully.
*Donald William McKay. From Thurso. Commissioned from Edinburgh University OTC into Royal
Garrison Artillery.
23 March 1915
It has been a muggy day. Called at Cowdenbeath on my way down and introduced
myself to Mr. Bain. Had a long yarn with him during which he frequently went beyond
my depth. Had a longish walk with Uncle in the afternoon.
24 March 1915
Left for Glasgow at 12:30. Auntie down seeing me off. She has broadened
considerably in her views lately. Met Dorothy Middleton as arranged and had tea.
She continues to increase in beauty and Ian will be dashed lucky if he lands her - an
idea she appears to pooh-pooh. Had a very nice time with her - went to La Scala and
then to The Picture Ho. for coffee. In the former we ran into Connie Soutar and Tina
Cameron, who no doubt thought us an ill-assorted couple. D. is companion to a lady
out at Bothwell, and has a very leisurely existence. She took herself home about
9:30 and I made for the YMCA where I got a room for 2/6 consisting of 4 walls, a bed
and a bible!
25 March 1915
Spent the morning looking for a waterproof, and didn't find one. I am a most
undecided person when hunting for anything like that, and usually start out with no
clear idea of what I want. I ultimately came to the decision, on looking up Land &
Water, to go down and inspect the London productions and incidentally visit Vane.
Went out to Randolph Gardens and found Mary Fargie in. She is small and fat, with
a triple chin and a pretty bad Glasgow accent.
Was at Daisy's at 4:30 and we had tea at Miss Rombach's. I paid a hurried visit to
the tailors and then we proceeded to the King's Theatre where we got seats in the
front row of the Upper Circle. I enjoyed the play very much, all the more being in their
company, and I couldn't help thinking it might be for the last time. I should have liked
to tell D. what she has meant to me but Tina was there, which was probably just as
well.
26 March 1915
Got into Euston at breakfast time, which meal I got in a little dingy restaurant with
marble topped tables and no table cloths. A lot of others there too, quite decently
dressed, but mostly going in for tea, or hot milk and cake! I couldn't make it out.
Went to look for a waterproof, and spent most of the morning in that way. Went down
Whitehall and also called at Jermyn St. and fixed up with D.S. Kitchen to take over
my collection if I don't require them afterwards. Speaking of Salfeld and Pompekj: he
thinks they would both be officers in the German Army.
Went out to Edmonton and caught Vane just going out. We had tea. Both Vane and
Con have the pip, and have no fire or keenness left in them. Probably Vane isn't
reading enough, and yet he has plenty time. The house wasn't in such good order
either.
Got a train from St. Pancras about 8 and got into Bedford about 10. Was up till after
12 trying my uniform on.
27 March 1915
Jim Miller was attached to A, and I to B*. "B" was on the miniature range this
forenoon and practising fire control with landscape targets, so I hadn't any occasion
to make a fool of myself although I felt one with my trews as wide as a divided skirt.
The afternoon I spent moping about the digs. I was over at 21 for a bit, but George
and Ian have gone to London for the weekend.
&A and B Companies were Sutherland companies - presumably newly commissioned officers were
posted so as to distance them from the men they had served with in the ranks.
28 March 1915
Church parade at 9:20. I got a loan of Captain Ritson's sporran. I had a very bad
cough, which I expected would bother me in Church, but I managed to suppress it.
Mr. Bain, our Chaplain, can't keep the Germans and their Kaiser out of his sermons.
Mowat, Lybster, was next me and trumpeting into my ear.
Wrote home in the forenoon and after dinner at Platts I went with Ritson and
Mortimer for 18 holes of golf. It was an ideal day and we had a most enjoyable
round. I won by one hole, to Ritson's fairly evident disgust, but I think he really was
off his game. I don't know whether I did right or wrong to play but I don't see any
harm in it, under the circumstances, and this is the only day Mr. Mortimer can get. I
like him, he's just like a kid out of school.
29 March 1915
Another brilliant day. Marched out about 9:30 to Oakley and then across country to
Tithe Farm and Bury Farm. I had charge of 2 platoons in the firing line and got on all
right except for a slight inclination to get excited. I must watch that. Ultimately, I was
working with one platoon on the extreme left, as the enemy were trying to work
round that flank. This was a practice day for the stretcher bearers etc., and was the
first hard manual work the pipers have done. The only thing that spoilt the day was
waiting on the roadside for 35 minutes for the band to come along. Got in about 2:30.
Invested in a set of chess, but don't believe I'll have much time for it. I haven't been
able to do any reading for some time.
30 March 1915
Divisional practice today and moved off at 8:35, so had early breakfast. Marched out
about 8 miles, with many checks and then lay on the side of the road for about an
hour and a half. It was quite hot in the sun today. At last we advanced, being in
reserve to the Argyles. I was with the supports (of the reserves) so hadn't much to
do: but it's a treat to work with "B" Coy.
The men are keen and tractable and I shall do everything I can to keep them so. The
difficulty is to draw the happy medium between Harper's laisey-faire [sic] and Willie's
nagging tactics. We marched home as we came out, with many irritating stops and
didn't get in until 6 p.m. so we were very hungry. My face is smarting with the cold
and the sun.
31 March 1915
Very warm today - the most summery day we've had yet. Rifle and foot inspection at
9:15. Musketry and handling of arms from 11 to 1 and again from 2 to 4. During the
latter period I took the company for a short time and felt rather nervous. Somehow,
they impress me more than 'C' did, partly because the NCOs are older and more
experienced men.
Am getting to know W. A. McDonald* as we are the only officers at present with 'B'
and I like him, as every other body does too.
Had hoped to get some letter writing today - to Daisy as I had some cigarettes from
her this morning, but got none done. Had a game of chess with Ritson, in which he
nearly beat me.
*William Alexander McDonald. Ironmonger from Dornoch. Pre-war officer. KIA 23 Jul 18.
April 1915
1 April 1915
Was on duty in the butts at Harrowden today along with Corrigal.* We left here at
8:15. Fine dry morning. There is still about 8" of water in the butts so we had to put
on waders, which were not water tight, so I was mucking about in wet feet all
morning, which didn't do my cold any good. Got home at 2 p.m. and wrote to Daisy.
Pills** with Blake at night, he is too good for me, but I am very bad. Was over at 21
for a little.
Black had No.10 platoon on Brigade inlying picket last night and they were nearly all
tight. He wasn't quite sober himself I'm told. That's the way to be carrying on just
now. No wonder we have a bad name.
th
*John Corrigal. Bank clerk from Edinburgh. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Feb 15. Died of wounds 8
May 18.
**Billiards or snooker.
2 April 1915
A total holiday today. Wrote and read in the forenoon. After dinner, Ritson, Mortimer,
George and I went out, per taxi, to Clapham golf course and had 18 holes. George
was fair excited, and driving a very long, if somewhat erratic ball. It was great to see
all his old mannerisms. We all had tea in Mrs Mortimer's, along with Ian and Addie
and some lady friends of the family. We had quite a jolly night. Mrs Mortimer thinks a
lot of George.
3 April 1915
Wet today, so the Company didn't parade at all. W A McDonald and I inspected
some of the billets, but in a very perfunctory way. I was Supernumerary Orderly
Officer, J B Morrison* being Orderly Officer. The duties don't seem to be either
onerous or difficult; and as far as I can gather they are mostly skipped. Morrison
seems to be rather a conscientious cove, although it may have been partly for my
benefit. I read most of the afternoon, and had to spend from 8 p.m. onward in the
orderly room.
*John Baxter Morrison. From Rhives, Sutherland. Pre-war officer.
4 April 1915
Church parade at 8:20. Mr. Bain again: he covered a large field in his sermon, from
Homer upwards. After dinner at 21, to which place I am half thinking of not going
back, we went to Biddenham - Capt. Ritson, Mr. Mortimer, George and I and had 18
holes. Ritson and I lost by one hole, a very close match and very enjoyable. George
was in good form. A perfect evening.
We all had tea and supper in 26. George waited till roll-call. I am very sorry for him,
he seems so sick of 21, where the gramophone is never quiet, unless it's to give the
piano a chance.
5 April 1915
Divisional sports, and thank goodness a fair and mild, if not a brilliant day. The sports
were in the Grammar School grounds and attracted a huge crowd. The crowd, as far
as fashion, etc. was considered, was very tame. There were 5th competitors in many
of the events and we won the 100 yd (Goddard)* and the officers relay race, besides
being second in the tug of war and number of other events. All over we had second
place, 21 points to 43 of the 8th Argyles. The latter carried off most of the heavy
events. The dancing was a treat but the presence of three or 4 professionals
knocked all the amateurs out.
After mess sat in the billet where Mr. and Mrs. Ritson, Mrs. Mortimer and her rather
pretty niece Miss Monk had foregathered.
*Robert William Goddard. Another of the Londoners who joined in Sep 14. Later Company Sergeant
Major and awarded the Military Medal and Bar. Discharged as a result of wounds in Apr 18. In later
life a farmer in Kent and a correspondent of JBC's in the 50s.
6 April 1915
Divisional exercise today and a most disagreeable day at that. We marched out the
Kempston and Ampthill road and effected a junction with another column which was
on the Cotton End road in Wilshamstead Wood, from which we turned south and
attacked the Gordons at Haynes Park. The attack went rather rapidly at the centre
where we joined the 6th, and I rather foolishly joined in a premature assault which
they made. As it was we were in a salient and would have been enfiladed, but
thought the movement was general. I must be more careful in future.
"B" Coy's concert is on tonight, but I was told off for Brigade Inlying Picquet in Albert
Terrace. After several attempts to quieten them the men have at last subsided and
quietness reigns. I suspect they have been throwing lemonade bottles through the
(closed) windows, but am not certain. I have just had to speak pretty plainly to some
of them.
GOLSPIE
JBC spent the next few weeks at Golspie with the 2/5 Seaforths, during which time he made only one
entry in the diary.
On 11 Apr 15 the Highland Division was warned to prepare to move to France. It arrived in France on
1 May 15 and shortly afterwards was retitled 51st (Highland) Division with the brigade became 152nd
Brigade.
Jim Miller was wounded by shellfire on 19 May and evacuated to the UK.
On 15 Jun 'C' Company, led by Capt Joe Robertson, took part in an attack on German trenches which
failed in the face of machine-gun fire and uncut barbed wire. 2 officers and 33 other ranks were killed
- many others were wounded. Among the dead were Sgt Ian McMillan, Pte George Alexander and
2/Lt Donnie Dunnet. Capt Joe Robertson, Capt Joseph Ritson and Lt W A McDonald were among the
wounded.
Sergt-Maj Sutherland and three others won the Distinguished Conduct Medal bringing in the wounded
under fire.
JBC's diary for 15 Jun simply says 'Battle of Festubert'
Shortly after Festubert JBC's mother received the following letter:
Private
3472 "C" Coy
1st 5th Sea Hdrs
152nd Infantry Brig
51st (Highland) Division
B. E. France
Friday 25 June
Dear Mrs Cairnie,
You all must have got a great shock when the news of our casualties reached Thurso & especially
when you heard of the loss of the two boys you know so well, I can well understand your feelings but I
know one gets a great comfort in the knowledge that they have died the most noble and honourable
deaths.
Thurso & Wick have suffered heavily as a result of the charge which shall never be forgotten by any
of the survivors.
Your parcel for poor George came here the other day and was handed to me & I saw by the card that
I was meant to share it, I shared with several of the other boys here & let them know who it was for &
who it was from.
I wrote a short note to Bruce the other day, poor Bruce will feel it terribly as George was always
speaking about him & the rare times they used to have together especially in camp at Reay & I
always knew by the way he spoke that they were the best of chums. I remember him saying not very
long ago that he was glad Bruce was not out here.
I'm not to say give any of the details of the attack as I've begun to hate speaking about it, one does
not realise what chums really are till after they are gone beyond one's reach.
Nothing more at present, hoping this finds everyone in Thurso in good health.
Believe me,
yours sincerely,
Andrew B Sinclair*
*Andrew Bremner Sinclair. Bank clerk from Scrabster. Commissioned in 5
th
serving with 8 Seaforths, 10 Dec 17.
th
Seaforths, Apr 17. KIA
TO FRANCE
After the shock of 15 June 1915, 1/5 Seaforth remained in the front line until the 25th when they
moved to rest billets at La Gorgue (about 20 km east of Lille).
The need to replace battle casualties and the increasing numbers of officers required by battalions on
active service meant a draft of officers was sent out from the 2/5th at Golspie. After a farewell dinner
in the Sutherland Arms Hotel, Brora on the evening of 23 June 15 JBC left for France the next day.
June 1915
24 June 1915
Barnetson* and I left Golspie at 6:30 a.m. Had a grand send off, all the officers and
men of the battalion coming to the station to see us off. The journey wasn't exciting,
as Barnetson isn't any more of a conversationalist than I, but very pleasant. Saw a
number of friends in Edin. including Bob and Bessie. Left at 10:50 for London, having
picked up Sutherland**
*William Alexander Barnetson. Farmer from Clayock, Caithness. Pre-war officer.
**Alfred Patrick Sutherland. An Edinburgh-born bank clerk from London. After active service with the
th
London Regiment in early 1915, commissioned in 5 Seaforths in May 15.
25 June 1915
Breakfasted at the Strand Palace Hotel and after being photographed, at Lafayette’s,
went and met Vane at Piccadilly. He is looking much better after his route-march to
Cambridge. We shopped, and had lunch at the SPH - eleven of us, including five of
us officers. Left Waterloo 2:55 p.m., and feeling in very good spirits all of us, but I
think the women who are left behind are bravest of all.
Arrived Southampton about 6 p.m. and got our business done. Leaving tonight late
by the Havre packet. A number of civilians crossing too.
26 June 1915
On deck shortly before 8 a.m. No land in sight, but fine breezy sunny morning. Had
breakfast and before we were finished we were inside Havre harbour.
Char-a-banc up to the Base Office from which we received orders to proceed Rouen
same afternoon. Had a very enjoyable journey, not much sign of war here, but on the
quays were piles of barbed wire and large numbers of transport waggons parked.
Arrived Rouen about 5:30 p.m. and after some difficulty found our way to the Hotel
Angleterre where we found Nicolson* and Paterson** eating strawberries. Later went
out to the Base Depot where we are to billet until further orders - in canvas shacks.
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*Francis Irvine Nicholson. Born in Ayr, but with some Caithness connection. Commissioned in 5
Seaforths Feb 15, having served in the London Scottish as an Other Rank.
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**John Paterson. Resident of Edinburgh. Related to Lt Col Edward Buik, CO 2/5 Seaforths.
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Commissioned in 5 Seaforth Jan 15.
27 June 1915
This being Sunday there was nothing very much doing in the way of drill. We went
down to the town and wandered through the streets, visiting the market which was
pretty well packed with country people. We (Barnetson, Suddy, Hamish* and I) had
some grub at a café - strawberries made up in some sickening sort of way. Saw the
Cathedral and most of the older parts of the town, some of it fairly ancient and
replete with carved arches and figures in all sorts of corners and attitudes. Had a
decent dinner at a restaurant: Hamish inclined to get a bit uproarious. Nearly all the
shops were shut. Sat in a café on the river front for a bit and then took the car out to
the camp.
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*James McIntosh. Born in Melvich and a pre-war member of 5 Seaforths. Working as a civil servant
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in London at the outbreak of war. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Mar 15. It is noticeable that Gaelic
forenames (Hamish, Ian, etc) were often Anglicized for official purposes to James, John, etc.
28 June 1915
After breakfast we walked up to the pine wood about a mile along the road for a
lecture by a young Captain who has evidently been out all winter. On the road, and
on the sandy bit of plateau between it and the river infantry and cavalry were being
drilled. The infantry were in some cases drafts newly come out, in others details,
sick, etc. They were fairly getting it rubbed in and smartened up, but it was only for a
few hours in the day.
In the evening we went down to Rouen, Finnie* playing football on the way and
generally conducting himself like a young child. Barney and he and I thought to go
down the river on a steamer but missed it and put it off. We went and had dinner at
the Café Normandie. The three of us climbed the chalk hill on the South? side of the
town. It rises almost perpendicularly from the side of the river, of which and all the
surrounding country especially to the West it commands a magnificent view.
*Raymond Alfred Finlayson. A seed tester from London - with family connections to Caithness. Commissioned in 5th Seaforths
Apr 15.
29 June 1915
The same programme today as yesterday but it came on rain so we returned to
camp, when it cleared up. Harry Lauder's son* has joined the camp. In the afternoon
we had revolver shooting at which I was nothing patent. Went down to Rouen tonight
again and in time to catch the steamer. We all got aboard and comfortably seated.
Just as it was about to leave we sent Suddy to see when it would return. On finding it
would come back tomorrow morning we bunked for the quay. Adjourned to the Café
Normandie where we found Johnnie Paterson with the news that we are for the road
tomorrow. So we had what we thought was to be our last civilised dinner - nothing
now but bully beef and biscuits - and celebrated the occasion by having a good feed.
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*John Lauder, an officer in 1/8 Argyle & Sutherland Highlanders. KIA Dec 16. There is a persistent
and, at this distance of time, totally unverifiable story that he was actually shot by his own men.
30 June 1915
Packed up our stuff, and drew web equipment, etc. from the QM Stores. Left camp at
5 p.m. The train left at 7:45 p.m. On board are several drafts of men and a good
number of officers. Had a fine view of Rouen when crossing the railway bridge, with
the sunset in the background.
July 1915
1 July 1915
Slept from 10 to 8 a.m. although the train was jolting and bumping at a fearful rate.
We got into Bethune in the afternoon and later detrained at La Gorgue.
Major Morrison* met us three and conducted us to the transport train where we were
entertained to tea by Major Sinclair and James Willie** - under the greenwood tree. I
was surprised to see the civil population evidently going about their work as usual
and children sprawling in the gutter although they are within range of the German
lines. Of course all the men are in uniform. The countryside is very flat, rather like
some of Bedfordshire, but the crops are getting pretty high and make the country
even more difficult. We went on later to the 'Reserve Trenches' in Rue Baceanot.
*Maj James Morrison, the Quartermaster. Banker at Elgin. Pre-war officer.
**Lt John William Gunn, the battalion transport officer (and doubtless 'John Willie' to distinguish him
from Capt David William Gunn). Farmer at Sibster, Caithness. Pre-war officer.
2 July 1915
Breakfast at 8. The men are up at 5:30 but no parades are held. Rifle inspection at
9:30. I have No 4 Platoon with D. Morrison* and Skinnie** in it. There is nothing
doing - sleep and eat all day and this being Maj McMillan's birthday we did the latter
very well. Went over to 'C' Coy in the forenoon and found Addie, Deuchart*** and
the rest wonderfully hearty. We had a tea party in honour of the Major's birthday,
although I think he supplied most of the eatables.
Before tea I went up to the firing line and had the first experience of being near
shrapnel. Up there it is very quiet and everybody is very comfortable. The trench is of
the nature of a redoubt, built of sandbags, over which it is almost certain death to
stick your head in daylight. The enemy snipers are very good. I found Adam very
happy, in one of the dug-outs.
*There were two D Morrisons in JBC's platoon – from mentions later in the diary this is probably Pte
Donald Morrison, a baker from Thurso. At some point he had served in Egypt, probably as one of the
volunteers or reservists who spent a year on active service during the Boer War. KIA 10 Jul 16.
**William Sutherland Skinner. Chauffeur from Lairg. KIA May 17.
***John McKay Duchart. From Wick. One of those awarded the DCM for bringing in the wounded at
Festubert - among whom was his brother Peter, who died of wounds shortly afterwards.
IN THE TRENCHES
3 July 1915
Some of our batteries were going it strong last night although there was little reply to
them. They kept us awake a bit. Went up to the fire trench with Major M'Millan and
6th Sea officer and had a good look over the part we are to occupy. It consists
mainly of an old Brit communication trench running at right angles to remainder of
our line, joining us up with the A&SHs who are further advanced. From this
communication trench, several redoubts have been built at right angles. These we
have to hold. Seemingly the Germans gave it to them pretty hot last night with
shrapnel and high explosive. They got one of the latter into a fort and smashed a
dug-out, the two men inside having miraculous escapes. I found Adam, again as
happy as ever, exploring the inside of his kilt for 'Scots Greys'* which are very
abundant here. After dinner I slept and in the evening got my things ready for going
into the trenches. This we did after dusk and I got my platoon in without difficulty, but
of course this part is very easy indeed to relieve. We took over and No. 4 Platoon
was told off to the reserve trenches.
*Lice.
4 July 1915
No. 4 had to furnish visiting patrols and listening patrol* as well. I was rather afraid of
the latter but found it quite a simple affair as we didn't go out far. The night was
splendid and beyond desultory rifle fire there was nothing doing. No casualties in the
battalion. Turned in at 3 a.m. and slept till six. After breakfast wrote a few letters and
Adam came along to my dug-out. Am very comfortable. Wrote home in the afternoon
and slept a bit.
*A visiting patrol was a patrol that went round positions in the British line; a listening patrol went out
into No Man's Land to listen for enemy activity.
5 July 1915
Quite a quiet day and little doing. Explored the ground just in front of the Sally Port
for a sniping post along with Major McMillan. It is a great thing to be serving under
him. No 4 Platoon moved up to take over the two redoubts this evening. It promises
to be more exciting work. Stayed in Z until after stand-to. Nothing much doing. There
are 16 Argyle bomb-throwers in Z as well as two sections of my own.
6 July 1915
A fine morning. Had to wait on after stand-to (3 a.m.) in case the Briggie comes
along. Shaved, breakfasted and to bed. The redoubts were shelled while I slept and
one high explosive landed just behind the parados beside the bomb supply.
Fortunately they didn't explode. The can get a perfect enfilade on the redoubts so we
are going to strengthen the traverses. I went up in the forenoon and underwent the
next part of the bombardment which was not so trying as I expected. However the
shells weren't coming within 50 yards but the splints sang and hummed overhead. I
got one wee bit on the leg but only a scratch. It is shrapnel that plays the mischief as
regards splinters.
At night again the fun started but Y got it worst. I don't know how they hadn't some
casualties. Fortunately a lot of the shells didn't explode - duds. Later the Bosches
started rapid fire, having spotted a work party of Argyles so we had a hot time, the
bullets going cracking overhead. I wasn't excited, but it took some nerve to put my
head above the parapet. The Argyles who were with us were a great asset. Donnie
Morrison is a very useful and willing man. I'm glad to have him.
7 July 1915
Stayed in Z Redoubt until after seven a.m. when I came down to HQ and got shaved.
It was a pretty quiet day as far as the redoubts were concerned although they have
been searching again for the sap head. In the afternoon there was fairly heavy
bombardment of the rest of the line but no damage was done. Finlayson took over
the redoubts at 8:30 p.m. and I moved my platoon down to the parapet opposite HQ.
Am now fine and near the dug-out and more in the centre of things. Turned in at
11:30 p.m. so as to be able to relieve Finlayson at 3 a.m. I hear there was pretty
heavy firing after I went to bed but never a thing did I hear.
8 July 1915
Finlayson called me at 3 a.m. but as things were quiet I didn't get up till after 4. Went
round the redoubts, shaved and had breakfast. Pte W Reid* of my platoon was shot
through the side while working behind the parapet. He died shortly afterwards. We
thought at first it might have been an accident by a couple of Argyll snipers behind,
but as another two bullets have come into same spot, I am pretty sure it is a German
sniper. We hunted round behind for him unsuccessfully, but they are devilishly
cunning.
Slept in the afternoon, censored some letters and went along the line to see Addie. I
never feel as sad as when I see poor old Addie's face. I believe 'C' would put up a
desperate fight but their spirit is clean gone at present.
Went out on reconnoitring patrol about 11 a.m. with Sgt J Fraser** and a man. Were
out for at least an hour and a half but didn't see or hear anything. I was quite nervous
and 'chattery' before going out but soon settled down once I was there. We got out a
good bit. Went to bed at 1:20 a.m. The Germans have been sending over some big
shells today and trench mortars. They are getting onto our new communication
trench.
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*Pte William James Reid, a pre-war soldier in 5 Seaforths.
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**Probably Sgt James Russell Fraser. From Golspie. Pre-war soldier in 5 Seaforths. KIA Mar 18.
9 July 1915
Wakened by Finlayson at 3 a.m. All quiet. Some trench mortars came over about
breakfast time but did no damage. Lay in a ruined cottage for a couple of hours with
my corporal to see if that sniper would come out, but no luck. Shells began to come
over so we had to shift. Went out with Finnie and C. Serg. Major Miller* and got
some shell fuses belonging behind the lines.
Were relieved at 9:30 by incoming Bde. Nasty jamb getting men in as they had far
more than us. If the Germans had sent over some well-aimed trench mortars they
would have done tremendous execution but they were unaccountably quiet and
probably being relieved themselves. Got down to the far end of Laventie without
mishap although one bullet made the skin of my back creep. The men got tea and
were led to their billets. Then we got to ours and had a grand supper with fried eggs,
etc. in the Café Aux Voyageurs. Turned in at 1 p.m.
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*CSM William Miller. From Golspie. Pre-war soldier in 5 Seaforths.
10 July 1915
Breakfast about 8 a.m. - ham and eggs, sausages, tea, etc quite a good affair, with
Steven D* in attendance. Company parade at 11 a.m. for inspection by CO - rifles,
bayonets, shaving, etc. The Colonel was unconsciously particular, as if men carried
burnishers in their kit. Slept in the afternoon and wandered down town in the evening
with little Willie. Rather colder today. A few shells falling not far away, watched
apathetically by the remaining inhabitants from their door-steps.
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*Pte Donald Stephen, Butcher from Lairg. Pre-war soldier in 5 Seaforths. JBC's batman.
11 July 1915
Nearly slept in. Had to attend bomb school at 9 a.m. for a few days course, but found
the instructor had also overslept. Rather old again: a quiet Sunday morning. Walked
into Estaires with Howie in the afternoon and had a bath and a good dinner for 3
francs. It was great to get clean again. Got home at 9:15 and found letters and
parcels, including a very nice letter from May and cakes, etc from home. Fags from
DeCain [?]
12 July 1915
Went bombing this morning and threw some live Bethune bombs*. Rather nervy
work at first. Slept and wrote May in the afternoon. Big pile of letter to censor. Black
and Stalker** arrived this afternoon Black to A Coy, Stalker to B.
*A primitive form of hand grenade.
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**Robert MacAllan Stalker. Son of schoolmaster at Aukengill, Caithness. Commissioned in 5
Seaforths (from St Andrews Uni OTC) Nov 14. KIA serving with Royal Flying Corps Sep 16.
13 July 1915
Put of a lot of rifle grenades - saw a display with trench mortars by Blake - horrid
affair.
14 July 1915
Took my platoon into Estaires for a bath and had one myself, along with Blackie.
Fine clean feeling afterwards. This is the first hot bath the battalion has had since
coming out, so they must have needed it. Had to up to the trenches on fatigue Black too and it was his first time in the firing line. It was a splashing wet night and
everybody got soaked. Had to lead along about 300 yards of newly dug, narrow
trench in pitch darkness. Worked from 11 to 1:30 a.m. although the spades wouldn't
lift anything - or wouldn't let it down again. Wonder we had no casualties - we are
always lucky or is it cautious? Got back about 3 a.m., the latter part being dry.
15 July 1915
Slept till dinner time. Went up to relieve the 7th Gordons at night. Trenches seemed
very strange the first night, getting into them in almost inky darkness. Everyone
stood to till dawn, as Major M'Millan believes in doing so the first night.
16 July 1915
Blank
17 July 1915
Blank
18 July 1915
Up at dawn - fine bright morning. Black and I slept spent most of the afternoon
potting at a German with the periscope rifle but didn't get him. I saw his head and
shoulders - my first German. Two or three times it struck me this was Sunday, but it
was hard to remember. It's just like any other day, only the Germans usually send
over a few more shells than usual.
In the evening, during Church time at home, I lay and 'imagined' the organ and
service. We seem very near home.
19 July 1915
Another grand day and just the usual routine of the trenches. Went out at night with
L/Cpl Sinclair reconnoitering and was out for 2 hours, looking for disused trenches
along our front. Got back about 12 and found the Major getting anxious.
20 July 1915
Up at 3 and found Blackie waiting for me to make tea which we did. Grand morning.
After breakfast Finlayson and I took bearings for 3 fixed rifles to sweep roads behind
German lines. Loopholes are to be built tonight. Both sides were very quiet today,
the Germans can be seen carrying long poles through their trenches.
Went along to see 'C' Coy tonight. Addie in good form and more cheerful than usual.
I hear from the sergeants that George was simply splendid and willing to do
anything. A lovely sunset tonight - great long fiery clouds stretching over the West
and overhead and giving everything a fine glow. Overhead several aeroplanes - they
usually come at dawn or in the evening. Turned in about 10:30.
21 July 1915
Blank
22 July 1915
We leave the trenches tonight so most of the day is spent in cleaning up, etc. It is
always a wearisome day when we are going out as there is no outgoing mail and
therefore no incentive to write. We were relieved by the Indian Division - a regiment
of Sikhs relieved the 5th. They were very quiet about is and weird looking. I'ld rather
fight with them than against. It started raining just about 10 p.m. and rained steadily
till we got to Merville about 3:30 a.m. Had to stand an hour and a half on the other
side Laventie for D Coy which did not turn up even then. Were pretty well soaked.
We are out this time without a single casualty in 'A' Coy.
23 July 1915
Rose and breakfasted about 12 midday. Felt rather washed out, as if I had been at a
dance last night. Allan* had a birthday party which was a great success, especially
the smoking concert which followed. Paterson and Dannie were in great form. A
perfect, moonlight night.
*Francis Halliday Allan. Commissioned in 5
Royal Engineers.
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Seaforths from Edin Uni OTC Nov 14. Later served
24 July 1915
Inspection by OC at 10 a.m. - rifle inspection. He was in better cut today. Went into
Merville after that and again after dinner. Tried to get a bath but there are only 2 in
the town and not accessible. The population wash in the river. Had champagne in
the Hotel de Ville, to celebrate Barnetson's gazette.
25 July 1915
Church Service at headquarters this forenoon. Rev. M'Farlane still hammering away
at the Kaiser: the sniping pretty rotten. Meeting of officers at Bde HQ in afternoon
addressed by Brigadier, revising lessons learned by 3 months experience. I hope he
has learned his lesson. Had to go into La Gorgue to find road to station and did so
on the Major's nag. Went to bed at 8:30 p.m., at least lay down on it, and wakened at
8:30 by Steven D.
ON THE SOMME
In mid-July the 51st (Highland) Division moved to the Somme region and took over a section of the
front line from the French. This was a 'quiet' sector where the division could continue to train. 'Quiet' is
relative, but in 1915 the name 'Somme' carried none of the implications that it would gain after the
battles of Jul - Nov 1916.
The battalion remained in this area until late 1916, mostly occupying positions on the River Ancre just
north of Albert.
26 July 1915
Marched to La Gorgue station, leaving Merville about 5 a.m. It was raining for the
first bit but the sun came out and dried me. Got aboard - 30 men in each truck and
officers in 1st and a few in 3rd class carriages. Rather a bumpy journey but not too
fast to make the bumps uncomfortable. We made a big detour, round by Calais and
Abbeville to Amiens. At Calais we drew up alongside a buffet run by English girls.
After Calais we ran along the coast and then up the valley of the Somme, the country
improving every mile. Arrived Corbie about 10 p.m. and marched 4 miles under a full
moon up to the Amiens - Albert road. Out billets were at Pont Noyelles.
27 July 1915
Rose late. Had a bathe in a burn with Black and Finlayson. The water is clean and
wholesome, quite unlike what we have seen up north. Concert by 'A' and 'B' Coys at
the Girls Seminary. Piano on the steps at front door and men standing or sitting
round below the trees. Perfect night.
28 July 1915
Reviewed today by General Munro, Commanding 3rd Army. Concert tonight by
officers. Great success. Finnie sang splendidly. Another perfect night.
Conversazione of officers afterwards in 'B' Coy headquarters, and one of the men
doing 'Imitations'.
29 July 1915
Drill in forenoon - handling arms, and also bathing parade. Sun very warm. Lot of
Kitcheners* passed through today. We expected to move today too but cancelled.
This is a lovely little village.
*The units raised in 1914 and 1915 as a result of Kitchener's belief that it would it be a long war
involving mass armies were referred to variously as 'New Army', 'Kitcheners' or in unit titles 'Service'
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e.g. 8 (Service) Battalion, Seaforth Highlanders.
30 July 1915
Handling of arms and swim in the morning. Marched off at 5 p.m. for new billets up
nearer the firing line. Rather warm to begin with but cooled down as the sun set and
after that had a glorious march. Tea under the trees at the roadside. Then on till
11:30. Some of the men were pretty well /----/ up with soft feet. Got to bed about 12,
in an old stable which had been used as French Hospital. Straw beds and rather
lively. Rose very itchy.
31 July 1915
Difficult to get good water here - the stuff we washed in was full of H2S. Hence late
breakfast. Port wine under the trees in the Chateau garden until some of them were
beginning to get merry. Paraded at 5 p.m. and marched down into the little valley:
the air very thick and close. Through the wood d'Aveluy, to the ville d'Authuille. My
platoon told off to a detached post on the railway which I took over from a
gesticulating Frenchman with the aid of an interpreter. Very comfortable little place,
especially the quartiers du Commandant.
Dined with the latter gentleman and 3 regular officers in a shanty below the bridge.
My French very weak. Went round the post about 11 p.m. and found everything OK
and the men fraternising splendidly with the French Johnnies.
August 1915
7 August 1915
Nothing worth noting down in the past week. I have been on this post all the time.
We did some work during the day - clearing the wood in front of Mound Keep and
cleaning up the trenches. At night of course the sentries were on and I had to make
a tour of these with the sergeant.
The weather has not been too good - fair amount of rain and drizzle, but I have been
very comfortable in the hut below the bridge, with first a Somerset and then a
Hampshire officer as company. I messed in Authuille along with the rest of 'A' and
'B', otherwise I spent all my time here.
Have read 'Captain Maigaret' this week and written a few letters. The time passes
very quickly.
8 August 1915
A fine quiet day, quite Sunday like. Had a glorious bathe, or rather bath in the burn
this morning. Afterwards read Study in Scarlet.
Having been living very much in the past, dallying with old memories, but keeping
out the later tragic ones. Think it's good occasionally to just take a good look back.
9 August 1915
Moist warm day. Too lazy to do any work or to see that the men did any. Glad we're
not in the Dardanelles. Have started having rifle inspection every morning and
section commanders have one at night. The Bosches are beginning to send over a
good many bullets our way so I have altered the route to Authuille, making it exactly
the same the French had it. Had a very heavy downpour of rain tonight and a great
deal of vivid blue lightening. It was so wet that I didn't visit all the sentries.
10 August 1915
Thick and misty this morning - no improvement after the thunder. Put the men on to
clear out the trenches which are rather muddy. Felt more energetic in the afternoon
and wrote two letters. A and B have a joint mess but I don't think it would be well to
continue it always. The Bosches are beginning to send over shrapnel occasionally
now, and two landed up in the wood tonight not far from one of my groups. Probably
there is too much movement in the wood.
11 August 1915
Another good day. Had a good view of the firing line from trenches on the valley side
behind us. The Chateau of Thiepval isn't much of a place now. Had some shrapnel
into Authuille tonight and some of us had a rather narrow shave. Argyles had one
killed and 1 wounded at the river. A lot of our men there too. We are always very
lucky.
Germany has offered peace to Russia but she has declined. British have taken 1200
yards of trench at Hooge, but it will be only a very local and probably extremely
costly success.
12 August 1915
Blank
13 August 1915
The Argyles were relieved by the Indian Cavalry Division. These have been in the
trenches only about 48 hours since they came out in December. Rather funny to see
them losing their companies in the darkness and as I couldn't make myself
understood to them I had a bit of a job.
14 August 1915
The officers of the ICD came round today - half a dozen majors and captains with
note-books all asking questions. Discovered Leslie who used to be in Chem T
among them. He didn't seem to relish the reminiscences so I left him alone. I handed
over to an officer of the Iniskillings at 6 p.m. I was only sorry I couldn't wait to hear
about India from him. He says 'It's a fine country to go on leave in'.
Battalion formed up in Bois d'Aveluy and when it got dusk, took the road through
Albert and got to Buire-sur-l'Ancre about 11 p.m. No billets for us officers but it was a
fine night, and we got our valises under a tree, Blacko and I and were soon asleep.
15 August 1915
A fresh awakening this morning: got up about 8 and shaved and washed. Breakfast
in a hired room, and later on Murray* got us two nice bedrooms next door to BHQ.
The village we are in has not been touched by the war, so that we are rid for the time
being of the depressing sights of roofless houses. The inhabitants are all in situ.
*George Murray, from Golspie. Pre-war officer.
16 August 1915
The newly joined subs paraded under the Sergeant-Major in transport lines and
submitted to public degradation - right turns by numbers. Great indignation,
especially on Freegard's part.*
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*Charles Gordon Freegard. Also known as 'Fishy'. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Apr 15 after active
service as other rank with London Scottish. Drill under the Sergt-Maj is the sort of character building
stuff inflicted on young officers.
17 August 1915
Drill in the forenoon. After tea had a walk by myself up to the main road and back by
Ribermont. Read Gray's Elegy on the way and much of it that was meaningless
before was quite clear. Lovely evening.
18 August 1915
Drill in the forenoon beside the river and after dinner walked over to Bresle to a gas
demonstration. In the evening had a stroll up above the village through the
cornfields.
19 August 1915
Football match between men and officers tonight but had to stop in the middle as the
ball burst.
20 August 1915
The forenoon was spent mostly in spraying respirators and smoke helmets, and also,
on my part, in packing my valise. Left shortly after 3 p.m. for the trenches. Had to
hoof it with full pack, and left myself just rather too little time. However the Major and
Dunvegan,* coming behind on horseback were late.
Went by Dernancourt to Moulin du Vivier (Bde H.Q.) and through Albert up to
Becourt (Bat. H.Q.) and so up to the fire-trench. We are taking over from 'A', 7th
Gordons. Had supper and a look round the trenches. Turned in till 4 a.m.
Alexander McLeod. From Helmsdale. Pre-war officer. Dunvegan Castle is the seat of McLeods.
21 August 1915
Up at 4 a.m. and had breakfast. Another look round and then started back to Buire
where I arrived at 8.30 and had brekker. Battn. paraded at 6 p.m. At M. du Vivier I
was sent back to Buire for the 1/4 guard but managed a byke from Captn. D.
Sutherland* and met the guard coming along with transport. Got into the fire trench
about 4 o'clock, pretty tired, so turned in.
Had a bathe this morning and found myself 'lowsy' in the extreme in spite of my
mouslin shirt.
*David Sutherland. Schoolteacher at Wick. Pre-war officer. Qualified in signals pre-war and on
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mobilization detached to act a brigade signals officer. Author post-war of 'War Diary of the 5
Seaforths'.
22 August 1915
Had a 'snackie' at 4 a.m. Very quiet day, which I spent mainly in fitting up a dug-out
for myself. I have put up a swinging hammock which won't be so likely to harbour
vermin and have partially latticed the doorway which at present is rather open.
Great draw back to these trenches is the lack of proper water supply. All drinking
water comes up in water carts at night to B.H.Q. and has to be fetched from there in
jars, bottles, tins, etc, by roundabout way. Same with grub and ammunition.
23 August 1915
This early breakfast is a good idea and gives a sound basis for beginning the day on.
Up at 4 a.m. and spent the morning in making a sketch map of my trenches. The
front line is held very lightly and think the Germans do the same. A good system of
communication trenches leads up to the fire trench and the dug-outs are mainly in
the support line. A platoon of Kitcheners (7th Beds)* is coming up tonight for
instruction. Turned in after stand-to.
*Raised in Bedford in Sep 14.
24 August 1915
Splosh* wakened me this morning at 4. Evidently there was a mix up last night and
he was on by himself with the Beds subaltern. I turned out and had a belated
breakfast at 5. 'K's Chaps' had turned in. Saw them at breakfast time. They are nice
[or mice ?] like fellows and ours get on with them all right. In some places there has
been some friction between K's and Terriers, but not here. They took over all my part
of the line after stand-to at 8 p.m. so I withdrew all my men except 4 sentries.
th
*Ewart Alan McIntosh. Also known as 'Tosh'. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths from Oxford Uni OTC
Dec 14. KIA Nov 17. A poet of some distinction and author of various comic parodies, three of which
JBC copied at the back of his 1915 diary.
25 August 1915
It was 5 before I was up this morning owing to some mistake. Another splendid day,
and very quiet. The Germans have been busy opposite us these last nights and are
sandbagging their trenches. They have the advantage of us in being on the top of
the hill. We can't see their support trenches but they can see ours and down to
B.H.Q. as well. In the early morning with the sun behind them they have a big
advantage in light too, and I wonder they don't do more sniping.
Spent most of the forenoon in the observation post getting to know their line. Wrote
in the afternoon. The evenings are short after tea now. Stand-to is about 7.30 p.m.
The Russians have had a naval victory in the Gulf of Riga.
26 August 1915
We have been sandbagging the parapet for the last few days to keep the chalk from
falling into the trenches. We have made no loopholes here. Kitchener's platoon went
out last night and were replaced by another of the same battalion. They were spread
over all the line, a section to a platoon. We put one of our men to two of theirs for
instructional purposes, but I think the instruction mostly took the form of tall tales
about 'The Orchard'*.
I was on all night and had much trouble in keeping some of the men alert. The 8 hour
shift is rather long I think as there are so many fatigues by day.
Splosh singing Harry Lauder in the Mess. He is rather like D.B. except that he can
carry a tune.
th
*Scene of the 5 's attack on 15 Jun.
27 August 1915
Got to bed about 5 a.m. Rose for breakfast at 8, and went back till dinner time. Wrote
in afternoon, and made a sketch of German lines showing loopholes. Think it may be
of some use to the men.
Another glorious day - not a drop of rain since we came in to trenches. Had a wash
and a shave in a bowl: also a hunt and got one of each variety so I'm proving. But I'm
very itchy. Turned in about 9.30 p.m. Finnie and two Beds' officers are on till 4 a.m.
Splosh got rather a setback tonight when playing the veteran up among the Queens.
The Major gave him rather a hard time when he came back.
28 August 1915
Another fine day, but rather close. Saw two Huns through the periscope and had a
pot at them. In the evening started putting up a loophole, which took from 7 till 11
p.m. to finish and it was pouring rain most of the time. No. 4 has very good Lance
Corpls, only they do too much work themselves. Seaman* and Skinner helped me
with the loophole.
Soaked through by the time were done and the trenches were very bad with water
lying in them. Wakened Splosh at 12:40 a.m. and turned in after setting my things to
dry all round the dugout
*Charles Ernest Seaman. Furniture salesman from London. Later commissioned in King's Own
Yorkshire Light Infantry.)
29 August 1915
Had quite a comfortable sleep considering. Got up at breakfast time. The loophole is
a wee bit low but may do.
My pocketbook was brought in at 6 a.m. badly mauled, having been extricated from
the debris we threw down last night. Got the things separated out and photos
washed, but they won't be quite as good as before. Fortunately it was dry and hot
this morning so I got most of my things dried. The trenches wanted a lot of cleaning
up, and require some more thorough method of draining.
30 August 1915
Up at 4 a.m., clear and cold as usually in the mornings now. The loophole is a bit
improved, but all the wire isn't yet cleared away. Artillery tried to get onto a machine
gun emplacement, but were far out. Evidently the map is not accurate, or else their
shooting is very poor, and the seldom will send up an observation officer.*
Black and I on duty at night. It was very cold and we stayed in the mess most of the
time, alternately sleeping and writing. Took occasional turns along the line, and tried
to locate the underground sounds. We think they must be from some dug-out, or
from the trench itself. It hardly seems possible they would drive a mine 350 yards
when the lines are much closer elsewhere. Still there must be some explanation of
these very high mounds they have thrown up. They can't be from any ordinary trench
work.
Wee Willie slept in my bed till 4 a.m. when we all had breakfast, and fed also Fishy,
Stalk and Nic** Thank goodness they kept off Golspie for once.
*One of the most important artillery developments in WW1 was the capability to 'shoot off the map' i.e. to engage an unseen target purely by calculating range, etc from a map. But this required
accurate mapping, still in short supply at this time. Without this, accurate artillery fire relied on an
observer to correct the fall of shot and the need to fire ranging shots ('registration') meant that surprise
was lost.
th
**Freegard, Stalker and Nicolson. The non-local subalterns who trained in the 2/5 at Golspie in early
'15 had formed strong bonds among themselves; possibly they lacked the family and social networks
of the 'locals'. In a poem written after Stalker's death McIntosh says 'The old Lairg clique is broken, I
drove there yesterday, And the car was full of ghosts that sat beside me all the way'.
31 August 1915
Rose for dinner. Very little doing today. Had a few shots through the loophole, but
the earth has been too damp lately for observation to be easy. Sandbags are at an
end, so there isn't much work to be done.
The Major was testing the artillery on a point today, and found it took ten minutes for
them to open fire, which is rather too long.
'Stand-to' is shortly after 7 p.m. now. It was very quiet last night.
September 1915
1 September 1915
Wakened at 4 a.m. by Finnie. Cold, clear morning. I hadn't been in the fire trench a
minute when a boy Graham* was shot through the head. Death was instantaneous.
It was hard luck, on our last morning too. We hardly realise how near death is, and
yet it doesn't awe us somehow. You feel that the body isn't everything, and yet
there's nothing religious about the thought. We buried him at 10:30, in a grave dug
by his companions. One of the burying party was hit with shrapnel, on the leg, while
returning.
In the afternoon the 7th Gordons officers came up to take over, so we had a large
party at tea. It began to rain in the afternoon and the trenches were soon in a great
muck. It is always wearisome waiting for the reliefs, and tonight they didn't arrive till
11:30 p.m. They were too smart to need guides so lost their way.
We got down to the foot of hill 106 after plootering through the mud. Some platoons
came down the road, but I didn't care to take that responsibility. The moon was high
by this time, and we had a good march in although the tail straggled a little at first
and I had to leave three men behind. Arrived at Buire as 3 a.m. and found Murray
waiting for us. We subs of 'A' are billeted in the mayor's house and have bed
between two.
th
*Donald Graham. From Lochinver. Pre-war soldier in 5 Seaforths.
REST
‘Rest’ for infantry units out of the line was not really an accurate description of what happened. It was
more a matter of continual fatigues in the trenches and rear areas.
2 September 1915
Wakened at 11:15 by Ross, who reported breakfast ready. Rose with that 'after the
ball' feeling which we always have the night after coming out. It was drizzling in the
forenoon but I went for a wash and a bathe. Met Adam who seemed to acquiesce in
his engagement.
Had a letter from Daisy re rose bowl which appears to have given satisfaction.
Dinner and tea at 5 p.m. Had a walk up to the high road in the twilight.
3 September 1915
Parade at 9:30. Blackie, Finnie and I. We had inspection and physical exercises.
Rather cold and raw - too cold for a bathe. Football match at 3 p.m. between right
and left halves of company. Very enjoyable, but not good football: one fellow got his
ankle broken. Very wet tonight. Fatigue party of 150 men up at Bouzincourt all day,
Splosh with them. This is Daisy's wedding day. Long life and happiness to her and
her husband.
4 September 1915
No parade this forenoon as another fatigue party of 150 left at 7 a.m. with Finnie etc.
Wrote Bob in the garden. It was a fine forenoon, but wind is getting cold.
Left with party of 200 men at 5:30 p.m. for Albert. We worked on communication
trench which leads up to La Boisselle. Line was pretty quiet, except for some heavy
explosions - heavy shells and trench mortars. Just a few stray bullets near us.
Fortunately it was a grand night, although not too warm. We got back at 2:30 a.m.
after a fine march.
5 September 1915
Brekker at 8 a.m. I thought to have a fine quiet Sunday and get some letters written,
but about 11 o'clock word came that the battn was to shift quarters to Henencourt.
This necessitated the fatigue party of 300 men going in full marching order. We
packed up after dinner and left at 4 p.m.
Arrived at our new billets after a very warm but short march. The new place isn't
nearly so comfortable as Buire, but the air is brisker. Finnie and I have a nice room
upstairs, with a motherly old wife to take an interest in us. Had tea at 8 p.m., "and so
to bed". Some pears I carried in my haversack today have mucked up my diary,
which is rather a humbug.
6 September 1915
Up at 5:30 a.m. for breakfast and fatigues. Left with 300 men and 6 officers for
second line trenches between Albert and Bouzincourt. Very fine morning, the air and
the pipes and everything reminded me of Bedford, in fact the difficulty is to realize we
are behind the firing line. The country is splendid and the harvest ready for carting
home. The women, children and old men do the work, mostly early morning, and
evening. Worked till after 12 and got back 2:30 p.m. The men very tired, and not fit to
work well. There are far too many fatigues here, and always a long march before and
after.
Had a rest in the afternoon and after tea wrote and went for a stroll. Singing in B
Coys tonight, also a case of O.P.* Didn't go down.
*'Old Pulteney' - a product of the Pulteneytown (Wick) distillery.
7 September 1915
Lovely day again. I was to have gone on fatigue this forenoon but it was cancelled so
we had a bit of a rest, but not altogether undisturbed as there was a 'non-surprise'
alarm at 4:30 p.m. The battalion turned out pretty smart, even considering they were
expecting it; I don't see what good it did - so much 'eye-wash' no doubt.
After tea, went for a stroll up into the corn fields and wrote to May: A glorious sunset.
The nights are splendid just now.
8 September 1915
Breakfast at 6:30 a.m. and left before eight for work on the second line defences
near Bouzincourt. Capt McLeod in charge of party. We took rather a roundabout way
going, and in trying to take a short cut coming back we ran up against the wire near
Millencourt and had to make a big detour to get round. It was a fair scorcher of a
day, and we were glad of any shade to be got from trees on the wayside, but that
was not much. We got in at 2 p.m.
Spent the afternoon in my sleeping bag reading and sleeping. After tea went down to
Buire on the Major's horse.
9 September 1915
Splendid day again. Breakfast at 8 a.m., as the fatigue part wasn't in till about 3 a.m.
Another left at noon, so dinner was at 11. Many who were on last night were on
again today. The men are getting footsore.
Lay in most of the day, as I am rather stiff and have a bit of a cold coming on.
Worked after tea at Fortnum and Mason's accounts* with Murray, trying to get them
squared off but there are several difficulties. We tackled it again with the help of the
Major after they came back but with no greater success. It can only be a very
approximate allocation.
*Most of the messes had arranged to have regular shipments from Fortnum and Mason to
supplement Army rations. Lt Col Davidson describes it thus to his wife - 'we get a box from London
every week for our mess - that was ordered before we left. Just a few extras for a change like coffee biscuits - soup squares - pickles - a large sparklet for making soda water - cocoa - sterilised milk - 2
bottles of whisky a week - matches etc'.
10 September 1915
Breakfast at 8 a.m. Another splendid day with more air. No fatigue today, but had an
inspection parade, under platoon arrangements. Some of the equipment very badly
put on. Rifles are usually well kept with the exception of one or two - including
Skinnie.
Right half company played left half this afternoon, resulting in a win for latter by 1-0.
Finnie and I played for left half, and Blacko, in a flimsy costume and identity disc
played for right. There was too much temper in it, especially on old Stewart's part.
The refereeing was strict to excess. Very good game all the same, and although I fell
absolutely pegged out I believe it has done my cold good.
Laurie [?] has gone away with some skin trouble, and don't expect he will come
back. Watson* away to hospital again, this time with his eyes.
*Douglas Gordon Watson. From London. Commissioned in 5
discharged Dec 16.
th
Seaforths Dec 14. Medically
BACK INTO THE LINE
11 September 1915
Rifle inspection as usual. Billets had to be cleaned up in the afternoon: have always
to keep nagging at this job. Teas at 3:30. Marched off at 5 p.m. No. 4 platoon
leading.
The day had been very hot but it was a grand evening for marching, although road
very dusty. They were taking in the harvest along the roadside, and away in the
distance beyond Albert, the white lines of the trenches could be seen. Got to the
rendezvous, on the other side of the town, at dusk and were met by the guides who
led us up. The communication trench up to the Chateau has been much improved
and drainage arrangements are much better. Still I thought we would never get up to
the top: and beyond the Chateau we had about as far to go again. We were posted
by about 10 o'clock. Turned in till 4 a.m.
12 September 1915
Wakened at 4 a.m. and went on duty with Blackie. Splendid morning, the trench
especially what is held by No. 4, is in a bad state of repair. We vary from about 200
yards to 100 yards from Germans. Pretty quiet all day - a few trench mortars on the
left.
One of the Neats* in No. 2 was shot through the head while looking over the parapet
through his telescope. He was always too daring. His brother was very much cut up.
We are working one officer in firing line here, as we have a small frontage. I was on
at night from 10 to 1 so had a decent sleep.
*Frank Neat from London. His brother William, who had joined with him, survived the war.
13 September 1915
Breakfast was a bit late as 'C' Coy is not strong enough for all the fatigues. Poor old
'C' they don't get much consideration -some think too much including Howie.
Got a fatigue party on to sandbagging the trench. There's a tremendous lot of work
to be done before the trench will be suitable for winter. Carried on in the afternoon,
but had to chuck it when trench mortars started coming over. They were dropping all
along our line in No. 4. Fortunately it is possible to see them coming. They came
from the left, but weren't of the large type. They were just like Bethune bombs, and
turned over and over making a whistling noise which rapidly mounted in strength till it
was like an express train coming up. Sometimes the bombs lay for a few seconds
but usually they burst immediately they reached the ground. They sent over a lot of
rifle grenades.
14 September 1915
On duty from 1 to 4 and got in about 10 hours sleep, in spite of Blackie's snoring. No
work done on the trench this morning. About 11 o'clock the Germans blew up one of
our mines and a number of men of the R.E. were gassed. One officer and three men
or so were done for. Some Argyles who assisted at the top of the shaft were the
worse of the gas too.
We took over the left sector of the line at 4 o'clock, changing over with 'D' Coy. A lot
of trench mortars came over just at that time but did no damage. No. 1 platoon lost a
Melvich boy* at tea-time - shot through the parapet and Argyle working party had two
killed and 5 wounded at night by a trench mortar.
And after all we are just holding on and doing no good. Our sentries in the front line
are sitting in little holes in the parapet, neither observing nor firing and the Germans
are firing our own mines. Everybody talks in whispers and walks on tiptoe.
*William Sutherland McKay. His brother Thomas had died at Bedford in Apr 15.
15 September 1915
Was on duty from midnight until six. Sat in the dugout and read all the time. Quiet
night and no casualties in the Coy. Was round the front line with Blackie. The right is
worse than the left. The men are mostly pretty cheery about it, but some are very
shaky. We heard today that the big push is to start tomorrow - combined movement
by the British and French. That explains the heavy cannonading we have been
hearing for the day or two, to our right and left, mainly left. We are evidently not to be
in the first push.
A bombing party were sent out tonight to try to jigger up one of the German mines.
They threw some bombs and got back safely but whether they accomplished
anything or not we don't know. We had some hefty trench mortars and rifle grenades
back by way of reaction, some of the Bolton boys* got badly shaken but nothing
worse happened.
*The TF battalions of the Seaforth Highlanders had recruited heavily in the Manchester/Bolton area
th
during Jan 15 - about 150 men from this area joined the 5 .
16 September 1915
Sat in the dugout reading and writing till 5a.m. but the atmosphere was stifling and
the flies a torment, so I had to get out occasionally. A misty night. Some of the men
were a bit nervy, and one of my posts had 'retired' before a series of mortar bombs
and rifle grenades. We could see the trench mortars coming quite well with a tail of
sparks behind. No casualties.
In the afternoon our artillery bombarded the enemy's trenches and tried to demolish
the craters between the lines. They fired about 12 huge explosives (2 duds). The
company was withdrawn to the reserve line - fortunately as some of the shells were
short and made a dickens of a mess of our own trench. The result was that we had
to put on fatigue parties to build up and clear our own trenches after our own guns.
17 September 1915
So hot in the dug-out that I sat outside the door all night, among the rats. Finally lay
down and slept for an hour. Very quiet all night.
Had to get the trenches cleared up today to hand them over clean, and must say
Kitchener's men are getting them in a much cleaner state than we did. As usual had
a tiresome afternoon, but finally the relief arrived before we were quite expecting
them. Before I got mine out the trench mortars started and we had rather a hot time.
Still, no casualties occurred. After jamming in the trench for a long time we got down
to and through Albert, and once over the rise we sat down, glad to be out and on top
of the ground. The men were in good spirits and sang a good deal which is unusual
at such a time.
Arrived Henencourt at 10 p.m. fairly well fagged out, and made a bee-line for Splosh
and Blackie's estaminet where we had a couple of bottles of champagne: then a cup
of tea as we had sent the cooks on ahead. Then to bed.
18 September 1915
Breakfast at 10. At 11 marched down to Buire for a wash and a bathe. Very hot and
dusty. Had a good bathe. Adjourned to the Pharmacie and helped Splosh with a
bottle of Bass. Got back to Buire at 4 and had dinner – Macconochie,* and roasted
apples. Nothing doing tonight. Had stroll in the moonlight.
*Tinned stew - a staple of rations in France.
19 September 1915
Another very hot day. Orderly officer today, which I discovered only ten minutes
before time for guard-mounting. Company inspected by C.O. in the afternoon and
pronounced very good. Don't know what makes them take that badgering tone with
the men. Perhaps it's modesty, but I think if Davidson told them they had done well in
the trenches they would think more of themselves and of him too.
Church parade at 6 p.m., Herbert Reid preaching on "This Gospel". I walked back to
Millencourt with him. He has opened a dry canteen there and sells at home prices.
He is in his element there. Had great argument with Murray and Moy Hall tonight
about God and the War, Marriage, etc. and as a consequence felt very restless
tonight.
20 September 1915
Breakfast 6 a.m. To Bouzincourt at 7:15 with fatigue party. Perfect day with a nip in
the air. Large fatigue party out, and part of it (Argyles) was spotted and had to quit.
Finnie's new job is to take him from us for a bit and he has given up his platoon.
James Willie is Divisional Transport Officer. Got a few letters written and am now
trying to square up the Mess accounts but it strikes me that somehow I'm running
this on my own money.
21 September 1915
Lord Kitchener inspected us this afternoon before we went into the trenches. He was
very red in the face, and the fellows said worried looking. We marched straight off
after the inspection (3:30 p.m.) to Aveluy, passing through Albert which had just
been shelled: the side of a house was lying across the street. Got into our quarters in
the Bois d'Authuille about 7 p.m. Had a late supper as we had some trouble with the
mess cart.
22 September 1915
Breakfast at 8 a.m. We have a splendid mess with a pergola and verandah outside.
This is my birthday and a splendid day too. Splosh and I made a set of chessmen
out of cardboard and had a game. We haven't managed a wash today - in fact it has
been a very lazy day.
My birthday cake hasn't arrived yet and I'm afraid Mother will be much disappointed
when she knows. Still we managed a first class tea with sardines, queen-cakes,
currant buns, etc. and later in the evening champagne. We had a fire in the mess
and were very nice and cozy. Finnie is grubbing with D Coy to be near H.Q.s.
23 September 1915
Rather dull and sultry today. Nothing doing all day, except smoking and eating
sweeties. After tea, had to go over to Head Qrs. and see to the digging of some
dummy trenches. Thunderstorm came on and the men got soaked so they worked
hard. The guns have been going it strong today, making a great din in the trees and I
hear that La Boisselle has been heavily bombarded by us.
Freegard had a narrow escape last night. Went out with an Argyle officer to take in a
flag which the Germans had planted before our line. There was a bomb attached to
the stick, and it exploded and killed the other officer. Machine guns were turned on
them then.
24 September 1915
Still raining this morning: the woods were soaking and the road and paths all turned
to mud. After breakfast we lit a wood fire in the Mess, and played Bridge till dinner.
Was up at the 6th Seaforth lines with party in the afternoon but didn't wait. The
Brigadier is afraid the Germans have gone back as things are very quiet so he
wanted Nicolson to take a patrol out in daylight. There is still some rifle fire coming
over and a few pip-squeaks. They will likely leave a few machine guns in their front
trench up to the very last. Our guns have been giving it to them very hot all day, and
the wood has been echoing with the reports.
Gid* and Harper in to tea which was rather a spread with sardines and tomato
sauce, apple tarts and seed cake.
25 September 1915
Raining hard all night, and most of the day. Had a fatigue party up to 6th Seaforths,
building parapet. 'Davit'** in to dinner and tea. He is always so cheery.
Sat in all afternoon and evening with a big wood fire. Our guns have been going
strong most of the day and the Germans lying dogo mostly. Good news today. We
have broken through on the North. The Germans here are a bit jumpy, and the 6th
gave then a bit rapid and a cheer at 'Stand to', which brought a brisk reply.
Finished up the evening with a great argument in the mess, ending up on evolution
which the Major strongly opposes.
*Capt Gideon Rutherford. Farmer from Kildonan. Pre-war officer.
**The David/Davidie/Davit who is a frequent guest is probably Capt David Sutherland.
26 September 1915
Rather a better day. Got the dugouts cleaned up. Were relieved at 5 p.m. and just
after my platoon got clear, some pip-squeaks came over and Black's lot had rather a
narrow shave. Nobody hit. The road in the wood was very bad, but once we got onto
the high road it was grand. Company formed up on the other side of Albert. From
there we had the pipes, and the moon came up. There's no time like the march to
billets.
27 September 1915
Got up at about 8:30 a.m. The men were payed in the forenoon, getting only 5 Fr.
each, with which they were rather dissatisfied. There was a good deal of drink going
at night and rows in several estaminets. Tube helmet parade before dinner.
28 September 1915
Cold and raw. Inspection by new Divisional General (Harper) as 2:30 p.m., Allason
having gone home in bad health*. Very cold standing on parade. Short route march
followed, round by Bresle and Baizieux. Got in to tea about six, and had a good
spread.
*'Bad health' is a euphemism - Maj Gen Ballatine-Allason had done a valiant job in mobilizing the
division but his day was past. 'Uncle' or 'Daddie' Harper would command until early 1918 - it was
under him that the Highland Division would make its reputation.
29 September 1915
Rather a nasty day. Battn did an attack on Millencourt. 'A' Coy formed the firing line.
Funny that although the men have all been under fire they wouldn't get down on their
stomachs any better than at Bedford, and movement was pretty slow: it made the
thing seem very unreal. Wrote letter all afternoon and at 8 p.m. was detailed to report
to Martinsart at 9 a.m. tomorrow morning.
30 September 1915
Left Henencourt after an early breakfast for Martinsart, along with Nicolson, to take
over at Authuille. Howie and Barnetson came over on horseback. Arrived at Authuille
via Martinsart and Bois d'Aveluy about 10 a.m. There was a bit of a mix up when the
Battalion arrived owing to 'misunderstanding'. Half of 'A' messing with 'D' Coy in the
old estaminet. The Major, Murray and I sleeping in the cellar behind the bar, which
has been turned into a comfortable bedroom with two beds. Black and Splosh have
gone over to the post on the railway, where there are now two platoons. The other
two are in the dug-out down below the river bank.
As we came along by Bouzincourt this morning we saw a German aeroplane brought
down by a Britisher. Both occupants were killed. There was an immediate rush for
souvenirs, and one fellow made off with the machine's 'tail' and though chased by
two sentries managed to 'make good'.
October 1915
1 October 1915
Had a very good sleep in the cellar. The weather seems to have settled down again
to another fine spell. Went round to the railway post with the Major after brekker. The
Mound Keep is much improved, and a lot of new dugouts have been made.
George Murray and Howie put a stove into the mess in the afternoon and we are
now fortified against the cold. The nights are very cold now. Things are very quiet on
the line here. Practically no shelling and only very few trench mortars up at the
Chateau.
2 October 1915
Splendid morning and had a bracing wash in the weir - hands and face only. Went
over to MacMahon's post in the forenoon. Black and Splosh at breakfast. Steven D in
waiting. Splosh ordered by the MO to go to bed as he has been badly for several
days.
After dinner we saw a lot of black smoke rising from their direction and it proved to
be from the fire Splosh had got lit in the shelters below the bridge. The place was
burnt out, the telephone shelter being saved with difficulty. When the Major and I
went over Splosh and Black were looking very down in the mouth but the Major's
cheery face soon put them to rights. He wasn't in the least put out about it. Blacko
lost his greatcoat, magnapole*, etc in the conflagration.
*A brand of compass.
3 October 1915
Another lovely day. On fatigue at 9 a.m. with party working on drain for water pipe
which is to take 2 gallons per man per day to the firing line. It will be a tremendous
saving in labour. A German aeroplane came over several times and we had to stop
work several times. Shrapnel doesn't seem to be much good against them and I
have never seen or heard of a plane being brought down by it. Dinner was sent up.
Sat in all night playing bridge, etc. I hear today that the Kitchener's lot have
withdrawn from the Ilo and Dinhollow trenches at La Boisselle.
4 October 1915
Splosh went to hospital this morning so I had to take his place at the bridge and the
new officers dug-out is a wretched affair. We have decided to have our grub at the
Mess. James Willie and Hamish McIntosh who had gone to hospital were sent
across to England, probably owing to the hospitals being cleared out for influx of
casualties from the North. We are now 4 officers short. The draft of men (87) arrived
late tonight.
The work at MacMahon's post is going ahead but the Brigadier was round today
condemning the roofs of the dug-outs as not being shell-proof. Fortunately they are
the work of the Gordons. Heavy bombardment going on to the North.
5 October 1915
Had a very good sleep in spite of Blacko's snoring. Wrote in the afternoon in the
mess. Wet outside. The Court Martial on Dunvegan came off tonight and up to the
time I left was 'gey dreich' but I understand it livened up considerably towards the
end when George Murray was well canned.
6 October 1915
Today misty a bit. Made a sketch of Berridale Brae. In the evening played bridge and
went with Howie and Black to hunt rats. Not very successful. Stalker came back
tonight from St. Omer where he was for machinegun course. Says British are rather
downhearted in the North at not having done so well as they hoped. But we must
and shall win in the end, however far away that may be, and however few of us live
to see it.
7 October 1915
Better weather today. Captain Sutherland comes in every day for dinner which is
followed by a game of quoits in the back garden. We are always glad to see his
cheery face. More rat hunting tonight and bridge. French are reported to be going on
yet in Champagne. Dreamt last night of killing rats.
8 October 1915
Nothing doing today. Bridge as usual after tea. Stalker came back tonight an Howie,
Dunvegan and myself had a rat-hunt on our way home as 11 p.m. It has to stop now
though as too many lights are being seen in the village.
9 October 1915
Thick and misty today. No news of the fighting today. At the Mound Keep for the
forenoon. The dugouts are all ready for roofing now if only the corrugated iron would
come. The Argyles had their parapet blown in last night, with a number of casualties.
The Germans are using very heavy mortars. Fatigue parties of out men were sent up
to repair, and evidently to the General's satisfaction as he asked to see Sgt Reid*
and L/Cpl Keith** both of 'C' Coy, today.
*Probably Sgt William Reid, a Caithness school teacher - commissioned 1 Jan 16.
**Probably L/Cpl Angus Keith, from Lybster.
10 October 1915
This turned out to be a fine quiet day. We were relieved tonight by the 8th Black
Watch, so most of the day was spent in tidying up. The Major wouldn't play quoits
this afternoon, being Sunday. Sat in the dug outs with George McKay and Hugh
Fraser* and others, with a roaring fire and had solos from various singers.
Got a splendid starry night for marching to billets - the men were in good form and
sang most of the way. The Germans dropped four shrapnel in Aveluy before we
reached it, and put some into Authuille as we left it. There was a lot of transport on
the road and a good deal of noise, so I think they had spotted the relief. Got into
Stenencourt about 11:25 p.m. Tea was issued to the men, along with a tot of rum.
Probably Sgt George McKay from Halkirk, Caithness, KIA Apr 17, and Sgt Hugh Fraser from
Portskerra, Sutherland, died of wounds Apr 18.
11 October 1915
Breakfast wasn't until about 9 a.m. this morning. A pleasant day, but a bit heavy.
Loafed about forenoon and afternoon. Bridge at night. Argument as to why there is
an increased % of male children during or after a big war. The matter was to be
referred to the Doc. but he didn't turn up.
12 October 1915
Early breakfast and left for Bouzincourt at 7:15 a.m. Got back 4 p.m. Fine day.
Dugouts are now being made 13 feet deep with 5 feet headroom so that roof is 8'
thick. Machine gun emplacements of concrete. Much better line than the front line.
Engineer officer there has only been out here for 3 weeks and is fed up. I think the
platoon commander is best off as regards variety and interest of work. Splosh is to
be Bombing Officer. Had a fine tea of hard boiled eggs and potted head. Parcel for
mother and from Bob. Johnnie Morrison came back today from Bray where he has
been getting instruction in Adjutant's work. George Murray had a few straight words
with Thomson, Staff Capt.*
*The Staff Captain was a member of the brigade HQ staff.
13 October 1915
Route march round by Bresle and Brazieux [?] today. Rather close marching and I
was glad I had made up my pack with my air-pillow instead of with heavier stuff. Jock
the Post nearly put his fist through it. The autumn tints are on the trees now, and the
apples still hanging are russet and brown.
Game of quoits before tea, which came on at five with boiled eggs and curried
prawns. Splosh got a huge parcel tonight which turned out to be 100 parti-coloured
sandbags. They are to be used for screening the officers' latrine, there being no lack
of sandbags here now. Finnie has definitely forsaken us for the H.Q. mess. Heavy
bombardment away to the North.
14 October 1915
Another fatigue this morning to Bouzincourt, the Major, Howie, Blacko, Freegard and
myself. Howie and Blackie spent the day in Albert and reappeared in time to march
back with us. Fine day to be out. Had dinner when we came back, Martin having
risen to the occasion with a boiled meat duff. Tea immediately after, and a shave and
then the Concert at the Chateau. The hits of the evening were topical songs for
which Splosh was mainly responsible. The Brigadier and the Countess were there.
15 October 1915
Field day - attacking position other side of Bresle which Finnie and the stretcher
bearers had taken up. 'A' Coy was to deliver a flank attack but it was rather late. Very
misty and difficult to see what was going on. Slept all afternoon. Second night of the
concert wasn't quite so good as first as there was some repetition of last night's
songs.
At 11 p.m. the alarm went, without the least warning. No. 4 Platoon was about the
last to turn out. The Adjie was in a screaming and obscene rage and I only dodged
him in the lane by good luck. We were dismissed about 12:30 a.m. I hear our
battalion took the longest to turn out but that was partly owing to the orderlies not
being able to be found.
One of the Kidds*, Brora in at tea tonight. He is with the miners at La Boisselle.
*2/Lt Alistair Kidd, Royal Engineers. Died 26 Oct 18 (Spanish Flu).
16 October 1915
Slept in a bit this morning, Capt Morrison, Freegard and self on Court of Inquiry, on
man who shot his hand in May. The poor beggar came out with the last draft and is
being tried now. Afternoon I spent in lonesome walk round behind the Chateau
woods and tried a sketch. Finnie and J.B. Morrison in at tea.
17 October 1915
Orderly officer and late for guard mounting. Church Parade at 10 a.m. Got a very
good sermon from a strange padre on 'Wherefore this waste?' Misty and cold and
service lasted only 1/2 an hour, for which we were glad although we enjoyed what
there was of it. O.C.'s parade for A and B at 12 noon. More rapid than usual. Rest of
the day free.
Sat round the fire all evening having theological arguments, George Murray being
especially keen on the 2nd Coming and producing a diagram to illustrate his views.
We have got an open fireplace put in, and with a big wood fire blazing on it we can
be very comfortable.
18 October 1915
Fatigue to Bouzincourt today, reporting time as usual at 8:30 a.m. All the officers
went into Albert and had dinner - omelettes, rabbit, etc. The Café Aux Voyageurs is
run by two or three women, who have to take refuge in the cellars during the almost
daily shelling.
19 October 1915
Left at 6:30 a.m. for fatigue at Authuille. Cold morning, especially in the valley of the
Ancre where it was pretty thick. Bulgar and Nicholson and myself, with 180 men.
Found when we got to our destination that we weren't expected and there was no
work for us to do. We didn't know whether to be wild or glad, so were the latter and
got back to Henencourt just at dinner-time. Capt Sutherland brought some salt fish to
the Mess, which we had for supper with Dunvegan, Danny, Gerry, etc.
20 October 1915
Supposed to report at Authuille trenches as 10:30 a.m. Splosh, Johnnie Paterson
and I left about 9 and sauntered into Albert where we had lunch along with Freegard
and Nicholson who had preceded us. We went on gradually arriving at 7th Gordons
about 2 p.m. They had had a pretty bad time, 'A' Coy losing 2 officers with a
kerosene-can* and both died . The Germans seem to be putting Potas. ferrocyanide
into these cans which produces blood poisoning. The Battn came in about 8 p.m.,
and relief was carried out through very expeditiously and without mishap.
*'Kerosene can' and 'oil can' were nicknames for German trench mortar projectiles.
21 October 1915
Mice kept me awake most of the night, running over my head, etc. 'A' Coy being in
reserve, in Paisley Avenue, there isn't much for us to do. The Company is split up
into platoons, No. 4 being on the left in support of D Coy. Coy. Mess in Paisley St
where all the cooking for the battalion is done. Very quiet in the front line. Looks as if
their trench mortars had been knocked out. Retired to my dugout at 9:30 and had a
blazing coal-fire.
22 October 1915
Very bright today. Dunvegan came limping down this morning with bad attack of
lumbago, and was taken to hospital on a stretcher - pity the bearers. I had to go up
to 'B' Coy as Allen and Freegard are the only officers there. Just before I got up, they
got a number of trench mortars mixed up with shrapnel - probably to make them
keep their head down. One mortar got into the trench and did some damage but
nobody hurt.
23 October 1915
Duty from 3 a.m. to 6 a.m. Fine night and very quiet. Germans working hard. General
Harper round today, and made himself very disagreeable. Four light trench mortars
and rifle grenades today.
24 October 1915
There was a ring round the moon last night, so I wasn't surprised to find it
threatening a break-down this morning. It did break down by the afternoon and the
trenches were soon muddy. Had 4 heavy trench mortars over this morning, 2 duds.
Nobody hurt and some wire blown down.
Capt. Sutherland in to tea, and Johnnie Morrison, who left for furlough tonight. Had a
sacred concert in the Mess, under the baton of George Murra', he being an authority
on the psalm tunes as well as many other biblical matters. Nasty wet night. Martin*
left tonight too. Leave has been doubled, so I expect to go home on about a month's
time.
*Alexander McKay Martin. Labourer from Invershin, Sutherland. One of the men in JBC's platoon
employed as an officer's servant.
25 October 1915
Duty 3 a.m. to 6 a.m. It had been raining all night, and Bulgar was swearing at the
drops of water which were impinging on his physog. There was a pool on top of me
but fortunately I had an oilskin over my blanket. Had to put some chevaux de frise in
position and it was rather an awkward job. Breakfast wasn't till about 9.
Rather a rotten day, my feet being wet nearly all the time. Two rifle grenades at 6
p.m. Germans going at their work strong. Suspect they are driving a mine towards
the salient as we have heard tapping tonight.
26 October 1915
Cold, bright and windy morning. A number of trench mortars, mostly small, came
over in the morning. In the afternoon some 'oil-cans' fell on the right of the 6th
Seaforths. Built an observation post at the top of Sauchiehall St. The Germans put
over a couple of T.M.s, as I think they heard us.
Some more came over about 9 p.m. in answer to our own TM gun, and some of
them were fairly heavy. Freegard was hit in the back with a piece that pierced
through to his shirt. He was bruised a bit, and the Doc sent him to the hospital. The
Colonel has been in good form most of the day. H.Q. are much more affable than
used to be the case.
27 October 1915
Blank
28 October 1915
Wakened this morning with a lot of rain on my bed, and a fair cold in my head.
Blacko gave me a tot of rum on which I slept to 8:45. It was very wet all day and my
boots were sodden. Allan kindly let me sleep down at the Mess except to relieve him
for meals so by night I was feeling a bit better. Blake and Johnnie P were in to tea
and we had the usual feeding of the 5000: our problem isn't so much the feeding
though as the seating of them.
About 8 p.m. we heard that one of 'C' Coys dugouts had fallen in, and that Addie was
buried under it. Thinking it must be about all up with him I went up to the place, and
the Major volunteered to accompany me. We found Addie in a dugout with Deuchart,
having been got out with some bad bruises to his leg and a pretty bad shaking. The
Doctor reported no bones broken. We got back to the Mess after 10 p.m. and turned
in.
29 October 1915
The 8th Argyles, on our right, got it very hot this morning with oilcans, mortars and
whizz-bangs. Dry overhead today, but trenches in a bad mess. Saw Addie at the
dressing station en route for hospital.
Splosh took out a bombing party at 9 p.m. to bomb a German sap out from Hammer
Head.
Heard later that the Argyles didn't lose a single man although the Germans put over
more than 150 mortar bombs - 50 of them oil cans, and a lot of whizz-bangs as well.
The Argyles gave them "Are we downhearted? No!" after the fusillade had stopped.
30 October 1915
Splosh came in at 12:45 a.m. having found nothing in the sap. Spent most of the day
trying to get a German sniper. Saw about six Germans today, some of them in the
wood in front of their line.
We were relieved by the 1/7th Gordons. 'B' Coy took the longest to be relieved and it
was 11:15 before we got to Henencourt. The roads were very muddy especially at
Authuille. We were all very glad to get out, and thanked out lucky stars that we hadn't
had a scratch except for Freegard's.
31 October 1915
Slept till 10 a.m. The people at the Mess-room have taken away their stove, so
Stephen has to cook in the yard. They are very disagreeable. Nasty raw day and no
parades of any sort.
Finnie and I rode down to Warloy, he to get a motor for the Colonel who is going to
hospital today with Lumbago, and I to see Addie. Not finding him there I went back to
Millencourt where they told me he had been sent 16 miles down. There are rumours
that our division may be sent to Servia. One Corps is said to have gone already, and
one division of our Corps to be under orders. Hope I get my leave first.
November 1915
1 November 1915
Fatigue to Bouzincourt with Capt. Rutherford, Black, Blake and Finnie. The last has
been put on fatigues this time. Another rotten day. We all went into Albert at lunch
time and had a good feed. The men were fairly wet and no coke to dry themselves
with when they get home, but I suppose they manage always to pinch some.
'Dooking apples' and Splosh's Steak and Kidney pudding tonight.
2 November 1915
OC's (Major Sinclair) parade at 11 a.m. Drizzling rain and very cold and he inspected
every rifle in the company and didn't find one dirty. Lecture in the Chateau at 5 p.m.
by Col Stewart of the Division on the attack. Nothing brilliant. Went to bed early. Am
reading Buchan's History of the War.
3 November 1915
Fatigue at Bouzincourt. The Major, Black and Blake. Bright cold day, it seems to
have rained itself out last night. It's getting to cold now to loaf about with pleasure,
and the temptation to drop into Albert is getting stronger. Splosh has been in bed the
last two days with rheumatism and melancholia.
SNIPING COURSE
A large number of schools - bombing, sniping, musketry, gas, etc - were established in France as the
war progressed. These made up for the sometimes skimpy training of units in UK, disseminated new
tactics and, unofficially, provided a break from the trenches for officers and men.
Sniping was intimately connected with observation. In the battalion snipers and 'scouts' were usually
gathered into one specialised platoon, although in the trenches there was little 'scouting' in the sense
of mobile reconnaissance.
The primary role of the snipers was (and is) as counter-snipers, i.e. to suppress the enemy's snipers
and only then to engage targets of opportunity. The static and routine nature of life in the trenches
meant that frequently visited points (e.g. latrines) could be identified and sniped. Good sniping
established a moral as much as a military ascendancy over the other side.
Sniping was something the Highland Division prided itself on - with many gamekeepers (and
poachers) in the ranks this is not surprising. 'Splosh' celebrates the deeds of 'Sniper Sandy' (Sgt
Alexander McDonald - KIA Nov 16) with a parody of the popular song 'Sister Susie's Sewing Shirts for
Soldiers' .
4 November 1915
Route march by Millencourt, Aliceville, Bresle and Baizieux. Just after getting back I
was told to report at Bouzincourt and go by bus to Querrieux for course in telescopic
sights.
We had a fine run down in one of these London buses. There were 4 officers Coats, West and King's Own man and about 12 men. Arrived Querrieux about 5:30
p.m. and shown our billets. We mess together in little house and are attended to by a
French woman whose husband was killed about the beginning of the war. So far as I
could make out he was hit in the fighting near the village and died in his own house.
She told us of other 'atrocities' too - her father-in-law, a man of 74 was mortally
wounded while minding his cattle
5 November 1915
We started the course at 9 this morning, beginning with a lecture by the sergeant
and then onto the range. At night had a lecture of 2 hours from Col Lloyd RAMC on
optics, etc. as applied in telescopes, etc. He is DDMS* but has evidently shot a lot at
Bisley and probably big game too. He is keen on the subject anyway, although it is
outside his ordinary work.
We are very well off as regards billets. I have a fine bed with clean white sheets and
quilt. The Mess is first class and we get on very well with Madame and all her
relatives including M'mselle Louise. This is the first time I have really had a good
chance of speaking French. According to the custom, M'mlle Louise's father came to
fetch her home. The French people here won't sing - not until 'après la guerre'.
Soldiers can sing, but civilians 'non'.
*Deputy Director of Medical Services – in a division or other organization.
6 November 1915
Fine bright morning and we were shooting all day till about 3:30. Then a lecture on
sniping, loopholes, etc from Colonel Lloyd himself.
At 5:30 the bus left with the men and should have taken us too but we got a pass for
Amiens, and Col. Lloyd lent us his car. We got in there about 6 p.m. Met Davie of
Bedford on the street and could hardly get rid of him. Strange to be among shops
and lights again but the novelty wore off very soon. French Major in the smoking
room while we were having chocolate. Very cold run back to Querrieux in the mist.
Amiens is in the French area; all traffic is carefully watched. Hear the civilians have
to clear out of Albert on account of spy-fever.
BACK TO THE BATTALION
7 November 1915
Breakfast about 9:30. Then we began to wonder how we would get back to our
billets. We started down the road and hadn't gone 200 yds when a lorry came along
bound for Henencourt and we were all aboard very quickly. Got there about 10:30
and it was just as well we came so early as we found the battalion was going to the
trenches at 12:30. Major M'Millan is O/C battalion - the Colonel is acting Brigadier
and Sinclair in hospital. Captn. Murray returned this morning.
Very slow marching to Aveluy, 8th Argyles being in front and continually halting.
German aeroplane over Aveluy, chased by our guns but got away. We thought she
must have spotted the relief but no shells came over. Relieved the Loyal N Lancs.
Very little dugout accommodation and had great difficulty in getting the men in.
General mix up with the machine guns etc.
8 November 1915
On duty till 2 a.m. when Blacko took over. Very quiet. Pretty good day. There is a lot
of enfilade fire, day and night from both machine guns and rifles. The Germans have
a very strong position and are steadily pushing forwards their line by means of saps.
Geo. Murray has been very energetic all day and has had poor Splosh in a ferment
all day about his bomb stores;* and then Splosh lay on his back in the bed instead of
on his side - the bed being just on the small side for three.
Took out a patrol tonight - Morrison, Peat** and Bain*** Saw what seemed to be a
German patrol but they were too far away and disappeared.
*As Bombing Officer 'Splosh' would have been responsible for the stores of grenades held in the
trenches (on a scale of approx 400 per 100yds of front line - these had to be accounted for and
handed over to the relieving battalion) plus the 2000 actually held by the unit.
**Pte David Peat, enlisted in London.
***Probably L/Cpl Nicol Bain, a Shetland-born journalist who enlisted in London. Commissioned in the
Royal West Kents in Jun 18 and KIA 16 Oct 18.
9 November 1915
Rather a raw day and the men were glad to have their goat-skins*. The Brigadier
came back so the Major is back to the Company. The Colonel and Adjutant were
round this morning playing havoc, and passing on the row they got themselves from
the Divisional General. The trenches are in a bad state and the fire-step has all to be
revetted.
Had smokies for tea and Capt. Sutherland and Dunvegan were in. It has started to
rain.
*Goatskin jerkins and waistcoats were part of the winter clothing issued in France.
10 November 1915
On duty 12 to 3 a.m. Trenches in a great mess as no provision of any sort had been
made by the 154th Bde for drainage. Had to use knee boots to get along and was up
to the knee in places. The men are very wet, especially about the feet and their
dugouts are about as bad as the trench.
The whole place is in a rotten state: the people who let it into disrepair should have
been made to spend the winter in it. It is possible now that it will be our part of the
line for the winter but we have been told that sort of thing so often that we are
sceptical. The men were working most of the day on the trench - draining it, putting
in sink pits and cleaning it up but nothing can be done to the dugouts as they require
a radical gutting out and can be touched only at night.
They put over a few high-explosives today, evidently meant for our sap-heads but no
damage was done. Heavier guns than usual - about 4.7.
Freegard's birthday party. Murray made me go over as he is anxious to heal the
breach. Blacko out on patrol tonight but met nothing. Turned in at 9 p.m.
11 November 1915
Had a wash and a shave this morning, the first since Saturday. Went up to D Coy
with Splosh who was going to see about his bomb-stores. Pitman has been gazetted
Captain and has rejoined his company. Howie has come back from leave. Had a
very good view of German lines from D, C and B's lines. Our trenches can be very
badly enfiladed and crossfire will get worse as the wood gets thinner.
My turn for patrol tonight so Splosh took my turn of duty. However it got so wet that
we couldn't go out - the men have no way of drying themselves. The trenches and
dugouts are very bad again. The water came through our own, above our heads.
Capt Murray slept on the floor.
12 November 1915
Today it had cleared up a bit. A lot of the trench had come down during the night and
the men had to set to and get it cleared. All the sandbagging requires to be done
over again. General imprecations against the 154th.
Sgt Gray*, L/Cpl Ross and a man went out on patrol with me. We went out from The
Nab at 2 a.m. and Gray and I got to within about 60 yards of their line. It came on
rain and we were absolutely soaked all except our feet and legs as we had on our
gum boots. Put the men into the Sgt Major's dugout where they had a fire on.
The Major was relieved to see us back as Capt Murray broke the mirror this morning.
*Sgt Angus Francis Gray, farmer at Lairg and former student at Aberdeen University. KIA 13 Nov 16.
13 November 1915
Lay in bed most of the forenoon waiting for my clothes to dry. Black and Stephen D
left this afternoon for a course of instruction at Felincourt, near Amiens. They will be
away five weeks or so.
Splosh was in very good form tonight, and talked thirteen to the dozen, beginning
with really authentic ghost stories which he apparently believes. I turned in at 9 p.m.
A number of pip-squeaks came over our dugout and one hit the bank opposite while
the Major was reconnoitring at the door. Splosh made some ox-tail soup which I
partook of. He broke the Major's bed endeavouring to help him off with his gum boots
and about midnight we were awakened by him extinguishing a conflagration which
was threatening to develop into a second MacMahon's post.
14 November 1915
On duty from 12 to 3 a.m. No machine gun or rifle fire so probably there was a relief
on. Put Murray up at 3 a.m.
After breakfast got our things packed ready to move down to Normandy City. An
aeroplane came over at dinnertime and got a good pestering. The relief began about
3 p.m. and was carried through expeditiously and without casualties, except one
wounded, of the 6th Seaforths. Enemy sent over a number of heavy shells and
trench mortars and got some of the Royal Scots and wounded Sgt. Wm. Munro*
('Boags') 'B' Coy. 'A' Coy went back to the mess room at Normandy City in spite of
opposition from 'C' Coy.
The men's dugouts are not sufficient to accommodate them and are in a very bad
condition. They are in no state for winter occupation.
Davidie and Stalker came to tea, the latter is to stay here as he has no dugout, so
there are five of us sleeping in the mess. Splosh and I occupied the hammocks,
Major and Murray the beds and Stalker the floor.
*William Munro. From Sutherland. KIA 13 Nov 16.
15 November 1915
The morning found Splosh and me both sleeping on the floor. Splosh began by
upsetting the major part of the morning tea. The Major was up first and put the fire
on.
During the forenoon, there was a fatigue party up to the fire trench with Splosh in
command and the rest of the men were on dugouts and roads in support lines.
Davidie was in to dinner. The Major went to bed at tea-time, feeling chilled a bit.
Toast and tinned herring for tea. When we opened the door this morning we found
the ground white. Big flakes of snow were falling. It had been raining during the night
and the ground was hard beneath but got sloppy as the day wore on.
16 November 1915
Nearly 3 inches of snow on the ground this morning: no frost. Took fatigue party up
to the 6th Seaforths at 9 a.m. The trenches are pretty guttery, especially for men who
haven't gumboots. The Royal Scots officer said the 5th were the best looking
battalion by a long way.* Went round by 'A' Coys lines. The dugouts down at the
cookers are being pushed on; if we could only get material they would be ready
tonight.
Major McMillan is rather better today but has been in bed since afternoon. Davie was
in for a short time but couldn't wait for tea as the valley gets very hot at night with
machine gun and rifle fire. 'D' Coy had a man shot through the eye while cleaning his
rifle. Three days letters arrived after tea and were very welcome. Stalker, Splosh and
Murray argued on the subject of freemasonry. Heavy machine gun fire tonight by the
Bosche.
th
*The 8 Royal Scots were 51 Div's pioneer battalion - these were infantry battalions that contained a
high proportion of officers and men from building and related trades. They were used as field
engineers but could, and did, fight as infantry when required.
17 November 1915
Snow still lying but no fresh fall. Took fatigue party up to 6th Seaforth to work under
Royal Scots. Went round by 'A' Coy to enquire for Splosh's goatskin which has
'disappeared'.
Gid and Dannie Harper came up to tea. We always manage to make toast here. This
is the third night the Major has had tea in bed; he is getting the upper hand of the
threatened attack of flu. Violent discussion on the war. George Murra' thinks as a
Christian, he shouldn't be here. He had us all against him. Moonlight.
18 November 1915
Got up at 6:30 this morning along with Capt. Murray to issue rum ['the efficiency of
lawn-tennis' inserted at this point ??]. After breakfast had a shave and went round
with Colonel Grant-Smith and Major Gair to see some work that had to be done. It
was freezing hard all forenoon, and a very heavy mist, in the valley especially.
Kestin* arrived here last night, and Freegard brought him over here this morning. He
looks very neat and fat.
Took fatigue party up to Belmont St at 2 p.m. and cleaned it. The men worked very
hard, partly because the job had to be finished, and partly because they were
promised a tot of rum. Got back by 5 p.m.
No letters this afternoon. Splosh left this afternoon for Amiens to get his spectacles
replaced and in a great funk that he might be sent to 'Blighty'. Marks** came in
tonight with 25 men, but haven't seen him. He is attached to 'C' and Kestin to 'B'.
*Lt Herbert James Kestin.
th
**Lt James Ganby Marks, originally from Belfast. Commissioned in 5 Seaforths Apr 15, having
served in Black Watch from Sep 14. KIA 24 Mar 18.
19 November 1915
Took fatigue party up to fire trench at 9 a.m. as usual. Davidie was in for dinner bully beef and devilled kidneys. Gid and Johnnie Morrison were over in the forenoon.
20 November 1915
Blank
LEAVE
21 November 1915
Took a fatigue party up to 'B' Company 6th Sea lines, but didn't stay very long.
Started to get my things ready and get my clothes cleaned. Officer of the 8th Black
Watch came up to take over, and had dinner with us. Went over to headquarters
about 3 p.m. Saw Howie on my way to Aveluy, he being in a dugout by the road.
Everybody is under the impression I am going home to get married.
Walked up to Bouzincourt and after some trouble hit on the QM stores where I found
Splosh returning from Amiens. Had a good tea with potted head and Millikin* made
me quite comfy in his bed. Couldn't sleep for itchiness. Got up about 2 a.m. The cook
brought me tea and toast, and then we went down to the Church where we found
two motor buses. After wakening up the drivers who slept inside, and when they had
thawed their engines (it was freezing) we got inside and our journey home began.
*Sgt James Donaldson Millikin, a shoemaker from Thurso.
22 November 1915
Arrived at Merincourt about 5 a.m. and just got aboard the train. First stop Amiens
where I got a couple of rolls and ham, and a tumbler of coffee. Got in beside
Alexander, M.G.O. 6th Sea., an Artilleryman, and a Hussar, so included the arms
well represented. A wearisome journey down to Havre, including a 2 1/2 hours halt
outside Rouen. I saw then the same countryside as when I came up first with
Barnetson five months ago but with rather different feelings.
Arrived Havre about 7.30 p.m. The train ran alongside the boat and after bagging an
unfurnished cabin for four, we had a scramble for some supper for which we were all
in very good form. The four of us played auction bridge in our cabin for an hour or
two and then turned into our bunks.
23 November 1915
Wakened by the noise of the men, who were packed all along the corridors and on
the stairs, getting ready to disembark. At last we got alongside and the officers were
allowed ashore first to the audible disgust of some outspoken Tommies.
Got into Waterloo about 8 a.m. and took a hansome to Strand Palace, along with the
Artilleryman who had taken a fancy to my walking stick. I tipped the cabby in French
coppers, and rescued my stick. Breakfast by my lonesome - porridge, fish,
marmalade, etc. Taxi to Euston and got train for Bedford arriving 11 a.m.
Went along Midland Road, up Alexandria St and so to Mortimer's shop where I found
himself at the door. Had a shave and wet shampoo. Met Mrs. Mortimer in Bromham
Rd. She was snotty at first as she thought I had been in the place for some days.
Round the High St and up Tavistock to Clarendon where I found Nana, Dido and
Morris. Mrs. Platts, Gwyneth and Paddy came in later. Had dinner with them, then
bunked round the town myself to see the old familiar sights. At 3:30 had tea with Mr.
and Mrs. Mortimer. Visited the Campions about 6 p.m. then back to Platts till 8:30
when they left for the Pictures and I for supper at No. 26. Caught the 10 p.m. for
Kettering where I got a sleeper for Edin. and on stripping found myself absolutely
'alive'.
24 November 1915
The attendant wakened me at 7 a.m. Got into Edin 7:30. Went to R.B. for breakfast
and then took car for Marchmont. Found Bessie in, by good luck. Had a bath in
Warrender Park, and then put on new semmit which I had bought for the occasion.
Bessie and I met Fife train and Bob and Aunt Georgie both turned up. Walked along
Princes St and met Rhoda twice, in her usual vivacity.
Had dinner at P.J.s and then I left to pay a visit at Jordan Lane, where I fortuitously
found Miss Reid at home. Stopped only 20 minutes and then off to Parkside to meet
Bob and Annie again. Uncle and the rest of them choosing china for Gordon's
wedding present. Made for the Lyceum and heard most of the Pirates of Penzance.
Caught the 9:20 p.m. for the north and had Bob's company as far as Cowdenbeath.
Had a walk through Perth up as far as the river. Fine moonlight night. Had the
carriage to myself as far as Inverness.
25 November 1915
Had a breakfast basket at Bonar Bridge. It was a lovely morning; I never saw Loch
Shin looking prettier. Shaved before I got Brora where David came in, this being
Thanksgiving Day. Got into Thurso at 2 p.m. The family was on the platform. Dinner,
and changed into civilian clothes. Game of pills with David. Tea was ready when I
got back and after that we had the gramophone. At 8 o'clock a lot of the girls came in
for coffee and a yarn. Tottie, Barra, Hannah, Isabel and Clara. Met Maggie and Katie
and Willie Torrance in Traill St. Also James and Geordie Forbes.
26 November 1915
David left this morning. May and I saw him off and then went for a walk by the Vic.
Visited Mrs.Torrance for a few minutes with Barra, also the Gerrys. Called in on Mrs.
Black. Met Daisy Shearer, looking very well. I paid a flying visit too to Mrs. and Capt.
Don Manson*, along with Capt. Milligan** who was up recruiting. After dinner,
Mother, May and I walked to Scrabster where we visited first the Wookeys and then
the Sinclairs. Back in time for tea.
th
*Prewar officer in 5 Seaforths. Wounded in Jun 15 and subsequently served with training units in UK.
*His obituary: ‘We regret to announce the death, which occurred on Sunday morning, of Captain D.
W. Milligan, county librarian, Wick. Captain Milligan had been ill for some weeks, but his recovery was
confidently looked forward to. He had, in fact, passed what was thought to be the worst phrase of his
illness and been able to go outside for a day or two, but unfortunately he took a relapse. Serious
complications set in, and he passed away at his home at West Banks Terrace.
Captain Milligan’s death was heard of with painful surprise by his many friends in the North. They
were looking forward to having the pleasure of congratulating him on his recovery from a serious
illness, and his passing therefore came as an unexpected shock.
A native of Wick, Captain Milligan was only 56 years of age. He was one of the best known men in
the North, partly because of the enthusiasm with which he undertook to do but mainly on account of
his kindly good humour and unfailing willingness to do everything in his power for anyone who asked
his aid. Many people will miss him and mourn his death.
From early manhood Captain Milligan took a keen interest in the Volunteer movement, and on
October 9, 1903, he received a commission in the 1st Sutherland Highland Rifle Volunteers, which five
years later became the 5th Seaforth Highlanders. A smart, energetic officer, he received well-merited
promotion, and when his battalion proceeded to France he went with them in command of B
Company. He had mobilized at the outbreak of the war and had taken an active part in the strenuous
training at Bedford.
Captain Milligan was extremely popular with all ranks of the “Fifth.” Unfortunately, however, the
strain of the war undermined his health and at the end of 1916 he was invalided out of the service on
account of rheumatoid arthritis. But his war work did not cease. He returned home and laboured
enthusiastically for the comrades he had left at the front.
He devoted much of his time arranging for the dispatch of comforts to the troops. Mainly because of
his efforts 5000 pairs of socks, 1000 woollen shirts, innumerable cigarettes and other gifts were sent
to various battalions of the Seaforth in France.
His interest in disabled ex-soldiers and in orphans and dependants left destitute by the war is well
known to many people in Wick. At the end of the war he was one of the founders of the local British
Legion Club and was two years its chairman. He was a member of the Territorial Army Association of
Caithness and also represented the Seaforth Highlanders Association in the county.
Captain Milligan was formerly proprietor of Messrs Swanson Brothers, Dempster Street, a well-known
drapery and tailoring business. He gave up that business, however, shortly before his appointment as
librarian at Wick eight years ago. As a librarian Captain Milligan excelled. Without exaggeration, it can
be said that no public official put more enthusiasm and energy into his work.
All who use the library will remember Captain Milligan with feelings of deep gratitude. He did
remarkable work. Not only did he reorganize the classification system, improve the lay-out of the
departments and readers free access to the book-shelves, but he made the library grounds a pleasing
sight, with beautiful flower borders and a well-kept lawns.
His work for the reading public will have lasting effects. Public interest in literature of all kinds
stimulated to an extraordinary degree by his efforts. He founded a book club, carried out the rural
library scheme under the Education Authority, and finally put outstanding work into County Council’s
unification of libraries scheme. It was mainly due to his efforts that Caithness was the first county in
the country to adopt unification.
All parts of the county found the benefit of his work. But, above all that, his personal charm brought
many readers to the library. It was great pleasure to visit him. If one asked for a certain book he
would spare no pains to procure it, and he did so in such an obliging, happy manner that it is little
wonder that the number of readers increased. Caithness, in fact, under his guidance, came to be
recognised as the “best read” county in Scotland.
The whole county, therefore, will mourn for his passing. Deep sympathy is felt for Mrs Milligan – who
is a daughter of the late Mr James Harper and Mrs Harper, Argyle Square – and their two sons.
There was a very large attendance at the funeral to Wick Cemetery on Wednesday. Impressive
services were conducted by Rev. D. S. Sutherland, Congregational Church (to which Capt. Milligan
belonged) at the house, and by Rev. A. Ross, B. D., and Rev. G. Gray, M. A., at the graveside.
Pallbearers were – Messrs Jack and Jim Milligan (sons); Bailie Harper, Mr Fred. Harper and Mr Alex.
Sutherland (brothers-in-law); Colonel J. J. Robertson. D. S. O.; Mr Frank Dunnett and Mr G. B. Kelly.’
27 November 1915
This morning I visited Mrs. Morrison - Donnie Morrison's mother. Had a lesson on the
organ from Berta who plays quite well. The pedals are the difficulty. Dinner and then
visited Juniper Bank, to cheer up Skinnie's people. After tea we had Maggie, Katie,
Januaryette, Berta, Hannah, Louise, James and Langdon. Quite a merry crowd once
we got started going. Visited the 'Rectory' and gave Con all the news of Adam.
28 November 1915
Walked round the Vic and down Scrabster road with Father. Back in time for church
at 12. Ma, May and I went to Parish Church. Langdon at the organ. McLennan*
wasn't at his best. Waited in to see if the Wookeys were coming but eventually
visited Mrs. and Miss Black and had afternoon tea with them. Then tea at home and
went down to Tottie's where I had more. Went to church en famille - Congregational
this time. Then back to Tottie's - after first visiting the Doctor and getting a medical
certificate for bronchial catarrh. Miller of the Patrol boat was in and sang. Escorted
Isabel home just after midnight.
*The Rev McLennan was the father of Ian.
29 November 1915
Visited Adam's Auntie this forenoon. She is a cheery body: saw the Gerrys too. This
being the half-holiday, I went a walk as far as Ormlie with Pa and May. Visited the
Manse before tea. Mrs McLennan seemed to think I had neglected them. After tea I
went to Mrs. Torrance's: saw Connie Walker, and visited the rectory where I found
Miss Haig and had a long yarn with her. I find she knows Levy, Harris, Vickers, etc.
Tait was looking rather worried, perhaps because his mother is ill. McKenzie the
minister was in to tea. Wandered round by Olrig St. and thought of calling at Maggie
McKays but it was rather late. Trekked home where I found May by herself. The rest
came in about 9:30 with Charlie from Greig's gramophone entertainment.
30 November 1915
Cold and wet. The family came to the station with me: called in at Tottie's on the way
up. Langdon going south to join the 5th Scot. Rifles. A number of people at the
station to see him off. Had his company as far as Perth. Met Clarke at Inverness by
appointment. Tea basket at Kinguissie. Had a longish wait at Perth was we missed
Edin. connection. Saw Bessie at Waverly for a minute but had to rush for the London
train. I got a sleeper and turned in at once so that I should get my full 10/- worth.
December 1915
1 December 1915
Got into London about 7:30 a.m. and took a taxi to Strand Palace Hotel where I had
brekker. Made a few purchases - e.g. oilskin 13/6, but forgot most of the things I
wanted. It was lashing rain anyway. Visited Jermyn St and saw Dr. Kitchen and
Allen. Met Mrs. Platts and Dido at Piccadilly Tube. Had dinner with them at Strand
Palace. Met Robert Alexander at the Tube, having 'phoned him earlier in the day,
and introduced him to Mrs. Platts and D, who seemed much impressed. Had coffee
with him at the Strd. Palace and after a long yarn made for Waterloo Stn. Here I got
into difficulties with the Rail Transport Officer but at least got a seat in SE&C Ry. Rob
had to leave me at the barrier and was much incensed.
Arrived Folkstone about 6 p.m. Nearly 600 men on the train and it took a long time
before they were satisfactorily housed - there being no boat tonight. Got up to
Queen's Hotel and got a bed. Had dinner, picture house and then to bed.
BACK TO FRANCE
2 December 1915
Up at 5 a.m. for an early breakfast of rather a scrappy kind. We were told there
wouldn't be a boat for us until afternoon but managed to get one leaving at 9 a.m.
Bolougne at 11 a.m. Pretty good crossing and few sick. A good deal of traffic in the
Channel considering everything: a lot of patrol boats about and we had a torpedo
boat for escort. After a lot of delay at the Military Landing Officers got along to stn.
Had a dinner with Cattenach who had been at Golspie and had come out from the
8th Camerons. Lot of new officers going to Etaples. Pleasant priest at Abbeville. Got
into Amiens about 7:30 p.m. - no trains for Mericourt tonight so got a room in Hotel
Belfort. Went out and had supper at a café, bought set of chess and posted a p.c.
home. Turned in early.
3 December 1915
Up about 5 a.m. and had a regular French breakfast of coffee and rolls, not much for
half a day's tramp. No conveyance to be had at Mericourt so walked up to Albert Amiens road and after waiting half an hour got an RE waggon as far as Albert. From
there walked up through Aveluy, round by C______ Corner and so up to Authuille.
Found everybody in the best of health in spite of a number of casualties from
shrapnel on Berridale Brae - including Howie, Blake and Marks and 26 men - one
killed.
4 December 1915
Went round by the fatigue party on Black Horse Brae where they are improving the
road under supervision of the RE. A number of long waterproof riding capes issued
to platoons yesterday. Went round by MacMahon's post to see Capt. Murray and
found the Major there. Back in time for dinner at which Davit turned up. At 2 p.m.
bombardment by our guns was to begin so we took refuge in the cellar, in case of
retaliation. There were a few shells came over from the Germans but no damage
done. Had a few games of chess with Splosh. Marks taken away to hospital suffering
from nerves.
5 December 1915
Fairly early breakfast - 7:30. Had a fatigue party up to 1/8 Argylls to clean up this
front trench. The mud was pretty liquid and we were able, by means of pumps, to
send a good deal of it down the communications trench, there being a good fall in
the ground. The Argyles have already been in 8 days and are to be in 7 yet - much
too long in the present state of the trenches and dug-outs. Went up again after
dinner. After tea had a few games of chess with Blake. Splosh went on leave today
but I didn't see him to wish him luck.
6 December 1915
Almost immediately after breakfast the officers of the 6th Argyles arrived to be shown
round so with that and packing up I was busy all forenoon. After an early dinner
Howie and I went up to Argyles and took over. Trenches not bad but dug-outs are
awful and I don't know how men will be able to live for a week in them. Company
arrived, and also Fred Harper* and McKenzie**. Very dark night and wet. Got orders
from Adjt. to go to Martinsart so made my way down to reserve company ('B') where
I waited for transport and had tea with Pitman and Johnny Paterson. Transport came
about 8:30. Heckie Murray*** came along with me. Got to Martinsart about 10:30
where I hunted up Bulger and found him and Fishy (returned from leave) sound
asleep in an attic in the Chateau. Turned into my sleeping bag.
*William Corner Harper. Fish curer from Wick. In London at outbreak of war, enlisted in London
th
Scottish, then commissioned in 5 Seaforths May 15.
**Kenneth Hugh M’Kenzie. Born in Rogart, Sutherland. A rubber planter in Malaya. Commissioned in
th
5 Seaforths May 15.
***Probably Pte Hector Murray.
WITH THE DUKES
Young officers from Territorial units were often attached to regular battalions for short periods. This
was usually to gain experience of military administration rather than operational matters.
JBC spent the end of 1915 attached to the 2nd Battalion, The Duke of Wellington’s Regiment. They
had been in France since Aug 14 (‘out since Mons’ in Army parlance) as part of 13 Bde in 5 Div. The
other battalions in the brigade were the 1st Royal West Kents, 2nd Kings Own Yorkshire Light Infantry
(both regular) and a Territorial unit, the 1/9th London Regiment (Queen Victoria’s Rifles).
7 December 1915
Up at 6 a.m. Along to QM stores where Bruce gave Heckie Murray and me an early
brekker. Had a wash. Mess cart arrived 8 o'clock. Met West of 1/6th Black Watch
outside Albert. Had some difficulty in finding our way to Bray as there seems to be
no direct road. Arrived Bray 10:30 a.m. Directed by Brigade to 2nd Duke of
Wellington's Regt.
Reported to QM - Major Ellam and then taken to Mess where found Browning. Lunch
and tea there. MGO - Whittaker arrived on the scene. Rode up to Bronfay about 7
o'clock, the battalion having just been relieved from the trenches. After waiting a bit,
met the acting CO - Capt Cox and the Adjt. Capt Ince. Had a good dinner.
8 December 1915
Had a 'cold-douche', following the example of the MO of the Warwicks. Orderly room
and King's Regulations. Went over with Capt. Cox to the other three companies in
the wood. The men are partly in dugouts mostly in bell-tents which can't be any too
warm. They were cleaning up their coats etc. after the trenches. Capt. Cox went
round each tent and saw the men's feet and enquired after their health, etc. I thought
he was very thoughtful.
9 December 1915
Sat in the orderly room while Capt. Cox disposed of a number of defaulters. A good
few of them for insubordination and candid opinions of 'superior officers'. Colonel
Bray returned this afternoon from the Corbie rest camp and resumes command.
After tea got a horse, rode down to Bray and went to the Whizzbangs* along with a
number of the others. Rode back in time for dinner.
Some of the officers of the 14th Warwicks** are attached for a few days while their
men are undergoing instruction with 2nd Dukes. The Warwicks are a good class,
mostly clerks and students and are feeling the hardships very much.
th
*5 Division concert party.
**A ‘Kitchener’ or New Army battalion raised in Birmingham in Aug 14, who replaced 2 KOYLI in the
brigade’s order of battle.
10 December 1915
Walked down to Bray in the morning for a Field General Court Martial. Proceedings
rather dry. Lunch at QM's mess and after a second sederunt walked back to Bronfay.
Ripping evening. Tea with the CO and 2 of the Warwicks and went early to bed with
a May Apple Pie instead of dinner.
A company of Warwicks, coming out of the trenches last night were so done up that
they couldn't get further than Bronfay where they were put up for the night. Some of
them in a state of exhaustion, and rifles absolutely useless with mud.
11 December 1915
Cold and wet. Packed up, and hung about in the billet. Most unpleasant with the cold
and feeling horribly shy about going into the mess. I thought I had got over that sort
of thing.
14th Warwickshire arrived in the afternoon with their transport. After tea we walked
over country to Carnoy in the dark. I am to share the Doctor's dugout - Capt Tobias.
It is a tuppenny tube variety and quite spacious. Dinner and a talk with the Doc after
which I began to find my feet. 'Boutard' provided oysters and an Amiens duck for
lunch.
A 14th Warwick Sgt. brought in, wounded in the chest says he has had one drink of
tea in the 4 days in trenches and what rations he could borrow from the W. Kents.
Their supplies have been very badly managed. About 16 of the Warwicks were put
up for the night in the medical station, being absolutely done up and unable to go
further.
12 December 1915
Cold and wet and not inviting so stayed in all day reading 'Hurricane Island', and
writing. Very quiet on the front.
13 December 1915
Frosty this morning and very misty at first but it cleared up later on and a few
German 'planes came over. Ours weren't to be seen so probably they were away on
a bombing expedition. The Dukes are very partic. about movement when there is a
German plane overhead. As the Adjt. and CO were both up in the fire-trench I was
left to look after the 'phone and took the opportunity to go through all the files I could
find. I think I will get most of my information from the O. Room Sergt.
Afternoon and evening I spent mostly in reading and writing. The Battn. is going to
put in three tube dug-outs in the front line as should of course have been done long
ago, but the excuse was given that the iron material couldn't be furnished. Funny that
the French have had them for a long time - made in Glasgow too!
14 December 1915
Rose about 8 and had breakfast. Went round two companies lines with the CO. I had
fortunately discarded my kilt and done up my shirt-tails with a safety-pin, and it was
as well I did so as the mud took me up to the top of my thighs. The trenches aren't
quite as bad as I had expected. The fire-trench is quite good in bits but the
communications trenches are mostly bad. The mud is on the sticky side and pumps
won't lift it. Saw 6 big aeroplanes (French) passing over and believe there were other
batches of 6 seen too. Shaved before dinner.
In the afternoon read and wrote a couple of letters. The CO is thinking of changing
the dinner hour to 5 p.m. and carrying everything up over the open. The men haven't
enough fuel to do their own cooking in the front line and in any case water would
have to be carried up.
15 December 1915
Rather soft this morning, some snow fell during the night but it turned to sleet.
Relieved today by the 14th Warwicks. Their Doctor took over the MO Station. Dr.
Tobias made him sign a list of 'stores' as another of K's battalions did a lot of
damage to it in the way of foraging for firewood.
The Dr. and I walked to Bronfay and got horses. I had a frisky little thing and stirrups
were too long so I had rather an unpleasant ride in especially as my hands were so
numb with cold I couldn't hold her in. The mess in Bray very comfortable place with
arm chairs and sofas and a bright fire. Dinner about 10 p.m. and then to bed - mine
is in a wee room at the back.
16 December 1915
Went down to the Orderly Room at 9 and sat there most of the forenoon, reading
KRs. Spent the evening in my own room at the Manual of Military Law, most of the
others being at the Whizzbangs.
17 December 1915
Orderly room at 10 a.m. The Adjutant was at Bronfay, for a C. Martial. Lecture on
Bombing Tactics, by battalion bombing officer. Spent most of the afternoon in the O
Room with Col. Sgt. Laverack. The Doctor and I were at the Whizzbangs at night.
18 December 1915
Had the O.R. mostly to myself and got a lot of useful information. Col. of the QVRs in
to dinner. Capt. Hunter came in later.
19 December 1915
Fine day. Had a short walk across the Somme then to QM Stores to learn system of
rationing, etc. Church of England Service in the Whizzbangs at 11 a.m. Doctor and I
attended. Tea at 4 o'clock and left for Bronfay on Horseback at 6 p.m. with the CO,
Adjutant and Doctor. Came up at a good rate. Very bright moonlight. Arrived at
Carnoy about 7, to relieve West Kents. Relief was over by 8:15 and then we had
dinner. The Doctor and I had a game of chess which lasted till after midnight.
20 December 1915
Wakened about 7:30 a.m. by Capt Ince coming and wakening the Doctor to attend to
a wounded Bosche who had come over to our lines and been wounded before the
sentries understood he wanted to desert.
He was rather small, not a typical Hun, aged 38. Belonged to the 23rd Regt. Said his
regiment was mostly Poles and he was having a hard time with them. Complained
that they didn't get enough to eat, and said that all over Germany there was a
shortage of food. Germany would be 'Kaput' in 3 or 4 months. He was Hanovarian,
married to a French wife, so his sympathies were not pro Prussian. Said he would
fight for France or Britain when his wound healed. Complained of vermin in the
trenches. Their trenches hadn't much mud - about ankle deep, and he was fairly
clean so this probably correct.
Gave some fairly useful information especially in the evening when he bucked up
wonderfully considering he had a bullet in or very near his lung. He belonged to the
Landsturm, called up in April, many of his Kamerads were 40 to 46 years old. He
was well looked after at the dressing station and although he had some misgivings
as to how he would be treated, he was very soon at his ease.
One of the Dukes badly hit tonight.
21 December 1915
Raining nearly all day. I got up a bit earlier this morning as the CO didn't seem to be
impressed by the amount of work I am doing. Went round the front line with him and
as I had only on short gum boots I had some difficulty in keeping them on my feet.
Trenches are not so bad as last time. Good idea to use brooms to sweep water into
sump holes as soon as it falls and before the traffic forms it into mud.
Sat in the Adjt's office and in the mess most of the rest of the day. Has a coke fire in
MO's dugout in the evening. Game of chess with the Doctor.
22 December 1915
Went round some of the communication trenches with the CO. Not much doing
today. Three casualties from sniping. It was rather a clear morning and the men
didn't seem to appreciate that as some of them got out of the communication trench
and were pipped. One was shot dead trying to bring in a wounded man. Couldn't sit
in the dressing station with three poor fellows moaning: enough to give anybody
nerves. Pym came up to see one of them and the RC Padre to see the other. Both
since died. The Doctor much upset. He goes on leave tonight and ditto the CO. Capt
Cox returned from leave tonight and at 11:30 p.m. the Doctor's relief arrived - Dr.
Limpriere.
23 December 1915
Went round the trenches this morning with Capt. Cox from left to right. In spite of
much improvement there are still places in which the water is up to the top of my
thighs and coming over the gum boots. There are a number of fatigue parties but it is
much easier for these battalions than for ours as they have only 3 coys of 3 platoons
each in the firing line. The rest are available for work. Our guns were shelling a new
German trench and their shells were going just overhead. 2Lt Scott was killed at
midday by trifling with a dud German rifle grenade.
The battalion was relieved tonight by the R.W.Kents. Relief complete about 8 p.m.
Just as we were leaving Carnoy the Bosche shelled the sunken road to Bronfay so
we (Capt Cox, Ince, the Doctor and myself) had to make a detour to the left and had
a hard time getting through our barbed wire entanglements of the 2nd line. Had
dinner about 9 p.m.
24 December 1915
Sat in the orderly room most of the morning reading F.S. Regulations Part II.* The
Doctor and Capt Cox rode into Bray so I was left pretty much on my own. Played
Browning at chess. Holsworth getting songs off the gramophone for tomorrow's
concert. The evening was quite mild with stars occasionally showing and later on the
moon came up.
This time last year Mac was in bed with flu and I was nursing him and writing Xmas
cards. I hung up my socks on a couple of nails as I turned in, for the sake of
continuity and old associations.
*Field Service Regulation. One of the Army’s ‘bibles‘ along with King’s Regulation and the Manual of
Military Law.
25 December 1915
Awakened by Capt Cox going down to church at Bray about 7 a.m. Rose and had a
hot bath which I enjoyed very much. Spent the forenoon in the O. Room with O. R.
Clerk. Communion in loft at 12 noon, Pym officiating, officers only. After lunch HQ
had a rat hunt in the cabbage garden, and after the expenditure of much labour
secured one rat - at least Sam did. The rat had to fished out of the officer's latrine.
Boutard arrived. After tea, concert in the barn which had been rigged up for the
occasion with coloured paper festoons and Chinese lanterns. The men lay about on
the floor or stood round about. A piano had been brought up from Bray, and also
Boutard's friend who played very well and with much resource as most of the artistes
changed their key frequently. Pym read Dicken's Scrooge and illustrated it with
lantern slides. Free fight for oranges.
As far as hostilities are concerned this has been an exceptionally quiet day. The
Bosche shelled some men moving on the ridge to the left rear of the farm in the
afternoon. Divisional General Kavanagh had ordered there was to be nothing in the
way of special 'straffing' today.
26 December 1915
Clear morning. Went over country to Carnoy with Capt Cox to see K.O.S.B.'s sector.
Had a splendid view of the firing lines and away beyond the German lines, including
Mametz. Most perfect view I have seen. No bullets near us. R.W.Kents had a
bombing show last night, or rather 12:30 a.m., but were spotted and didn't do much
good. Visited K.O.S.B.'s H.Q. Returned to Bronfay as there was nothing for me to do
at Carnoy.
We spent the afternoon in decorating the room with coloured paper festoons and
Chinese lanterns from the barn. After tea had a rat hunt with flashlights and Sam.
Letter from D.S. tonight. Dinner at 8:30 p.m. Boutard had got most of the stuff from
Amiens and was able to put up a first class dinner. Menu - oysters, soup, ham,
goose and pheasant, lobster, plum pudding. Wines - 20 bottles champagne, Cherry
Rocher, whisky. Coffee, cigars, cigarettes, fruit, sweets. Toasts were drunk, including
L'Ecosse. Also sword dance on the table. Broke up at 12 p.m. British bombarded
Fricourt twice today. We stood outside listening to the 9 inch shells going over - a
cheery noise for us.
27 December 1915
Blank
28 December 1915
Spent most of the day, which was quite a good one, in the mess. Played the Doc at
chess and was beaten once again. Inspected the cookers with him.
29 December 1915
After having breakfast I bid goodbye to the Dukes and made for Bray where I am to
spend the next few days in the orderly room before returning to the 5th. Got a horse
at Bronfay and rode in, meeting the Brigadier on the way who seemed amused.
Spent remainder of forenoon and afternoon in the Orderly Room. After tea I took a
chair up to the Whizzbangs, that being the only way I could get a seat. They had a
panto on and I had a good laugh.
30 December 1915
Spent most of the forenoon in the orderly room with Col. Sergt. Laverack. Went over
to Etienne with Browning in the afternoon -in my kilt. My horse was rather frisky and I
had much difficulty in passing motors, etc. I went on past Et. along the river bank
which is composed of river gravel, very high. Had an extensive view coming back but
it was rather misty.
31 December 1915
Was in the orderly room in the forenoon and afternoon. It commenced raining after
tea. The battalion came out of the trenches tonight and therefore we are back to the
big mess opposite the Church. Col. Land ? of the 2/4 D.o.W. is with the battalion on
a 4 days tour. He was at dinner. The Dukes are reported to be going to the 32nd
Division and are very fed up.
Nobody seemed to intend to sit up till 12 so I retired to my bed in the little room
above the Post Office where I am now sitting writing this up. Twelve o'clock has just
struck and a feeble bell is ringing: There has been some cheering and singing of
Auld Land Syne up by the Church and the artillery have just blazed away their New
Year’s greeting as had been pre-arranged.
Last year we were masquerading in the High St Bedford. Where will we be the next?
January 1916
1 January 1916
Got word last night to return to 5th Seaforth today. Heckie Murray was even more
pleased than myself and soon had my things packed. The bus left Bray Church at 11
a.m. and took us by Mericourt to Bouzincourt to drop the 154th officers. Then
through Senlis, Warloy to Molliens-au-Bois arriving there about 2:30.
Found Black and Splosh and Harper entertaining to dinner 6th Seaforth officers who
had been playing ours at soccer and beaten them. Major McMillan is on leave,
Dannie Harper having command of 'A'. 6th Sea. men's team beat ours in the
afternoon.
Billets here aren't very good. Black, Tosh and F. Harper sleep across the road, chez
Mmlle Irma. I am in the mess here alone. Men's billets not good either. And no beds
have been put in.
2 January 1916
Wet and cold this morning. The rain just came on as we were starting Church
Parade. It was a very short service. Walked round by Mirvaux and Pierregot with
Johnnie Paterson; pelting rain the whole way. After dinner rode round by Rubempre
with the Colonel, Doctor, Barney, etc.
Capt Sutherland and Drummer E. F. Lawrence* mentioned in Sir John French's
dispatches.
*3486 Drummer Edward Franklin Lawrence from Northwood, Middlesex. Later commissioned in West
Yorks.
3 January 1916
Quite a nice day. Black and I took 'A' Coy (about 14 men) out for squad drill without
arms. Howie joined us later with Johnnie P. and McKenzie and 'D' Coy. Very stale,
both for the men and for us. In the afternoon we had a short route march - A & B
Coys together round by Mirvaux, Rubempre and Pierregot. I had 'point'! Got home
about 4 p.m.
4 January 1916
Blacko being orderly officer I had command of the company and therefore privilege
of a horse. It was too cold for comfort. The programme was a route march combined advance and rear-guard - by Rainneville, Cardonette and St Gratien and
finished up with a farcical attack on a wood near Moillens-au-Bois. I had no difficulty
in handling the company as it didn't consist of more than 16 men.
Blacko and I paid the company after dinner and there was a great rush for big sums
as the men wanted to take advantage of the Major's absence. Large numbers of
troops passing through these days - all moving up. We had a splendid view of a
Division on the march when we were out this morning.
Martin laid up tonight with a bad cold so Steven D. has taken over his duties.
5 January 1916
Rather a nice morning. The battalion - less courses of instruction - paraded for squad
drill at 9 a.m. We spent the forenoon at that below the wood between Molliens and St
Gratien.
No parade in the afternoon. Football match against 6th Argyles. Very good game but rather too much feeling. We were beaten 2:1 but should have won I think.
Blacko and Splosh and I had to go to a lecture at Vignacourt - per motor bus.
Adjutant and Colonel as well as officer from other battalions. Driver missed the road
and landed us on a bleak piece of countryside, so we turned and came home.
Splosh in good form.
2nd Royal Scots Fusiliers passed through this afternoon - a splendid lot.
6 January 1916
Blank
7 January 1916
Blank
8 January 1916
Blank
9 January 1916
Church parade in the morning. Walked over to Fleselles in the afternoon, it being a
splendid day. The guns were going it hard. Found the Grenade School still in an
embryonic condition and no messing arrangements made beyond getting a room.
Had high tea at 7:30 and was ready for it. We were all billeted in a barn in which two
tiers of beds have been put up. Heckie Murray had had the gumshon to bag an end
one for me.
10 January 1916
Flesselles
11 January 1916
Flesselles
12 January 1916
Flesselles
13 January 1916
Flesselles
14 January 1916
Flesselles
15 January 1916
Rather wet and drizzly. Had a big attack this forenoon, along with about 3 companies
of infantry, 4 machine guns and grenadier parties. Very difficult to keep up the
realism of the thing, but it illustrated pretty well what confusion there would be and
the necessity of having everything cut and dry. The NCOs had a binge at dinnertime
and some of the cooks got drunk over the heads of it. After the final lecture, at which
Col. Ian Stewart spoke, I got my valise into the Mess Cart and set off for Molliens-auBois, arriving there about 4:30 p.m.
First person I met was Capt. Sutherland who has just been awarded the Military
Cross. Jim Bruce, Deuchart, RSM and a drummer all got DCMs.* Great rejoicing
among the officers.
Went to the Major's billet where I found him. He is looking splendid and I was very
glad to see him. It was just like being at home again to find ourselves all round the
same table once again - the Major, Capt Sutherland, Blacko, Splosh, Fred Harper
and myself and as I had brought some tinned salmon and lobster from the Canteen
and there was a good stock of other stuff we had a very good tea.
*Capt. Sutherland's MC was announced in the New Year honours list and was for 'distinguished
service' rather than an individual act of gallantry. The four DCMs were for efforts to bring in wounded
men in the aftermath of the failed attack at Festubert in Jun 15.
16 January 1916
A nice morning to start with but started to drizzle about church time. We started
porridge for breakfast this morning and find it a real improvement as we can get real
Scotch oatmeal from the Divisional Canteen. Church Parade 10 a.m. The Major
didn't attend as he doesn't like the Padre. Walked up to bomb school and had a look
at the trenches.
Jim Smith rode over from Rainneville in the afternoon. He is much the same as he
used to be, especially as regards language, but perhaps not quite so fat. Lobster for
tea again which Davit put down with great gusto. A number of the officers at Amiens
today.
Mmlle Gabrielle and Irma are going to Amiens tomorrow so I had to take them along
to the orderly room for their passes. Davit and the Major were in for a while and were
highly entertained by Gabrielle. Davit had to see her home.
Splosh left this afternoon in the Maltese cart, for the Div. Grenadier School* and I am
to carry on with the bombers in his absence.
*Soldiers who were specially trained in the use of hand grenades were initially (and logically) known
as 'grenadiers' but, following protests from the Grenadier Guards who felt some ownership of the
word, the term 'bombers' came into use.
17 January 1916
Early morning parade 7:30 a.m. for running drill. Turned out in footer shorts: found I
wasn't in good training at all. Took the bombers today. The men are bowling very
well and mostly prefer it to throwing.
Capt Sutherland came to tea tonight as we had Tosh's devilled kidneys. Lecture by
M.O. on gas helmet and goggles. Sat in Irma's nearly all evening.
According to orders tonight the officers are to be rearranged to a certain extent Fred Harper going to D and Hamish McIntosh to A. We also get Shand who was in
the gazette today, along with Sergt. Reid who goes to C*.
Twenty aeroplanes came over this morning evidently practising manoeuvring. Cold
and dry in the forenoon, but raw later on and a great deal of rain in the afternoon.
*Sgts Thomas Shand and William Reid (a Caithness schoolteacher) were both commissioned in the
field.
18 January 1916
Had 'A' Coys bombers today. It turned out rather a wet day. Went straight on till 1:45
p.m. as the battalion was staying out. Too wet for football in the afternoon.
19 January 1916
Running drill at 7:30 a.m. No. 4 didn't turn out so I had a word with Jock the Post. 'C'
Coy came up to dig trenches at the Bombing School but left again at noon without
having made much difference to the place. The discipline and the amount of work
done are quite in keeping with each other.
The Battalion played the Div. Cyclists in the afternoon and beat them easily. It was
like old times to see Millikin stripped again. Johnnie Stewart outside left. Howie left
tonight for his second furlough and Blackie drove into Amiens with him.
20 January 1916
Very bright morning. Battalion out route marching today. Had 'A' Coy bombers until 2
p.m. Threw the dummy test, and put 20 men through the live as well. Throwing pretty
good. A lot of artillery, etc. passed along towards St. Gratien this forenoon.
Harper had an accident with the Lewis Gun today, while demonstrating with dummy
cartridges - Pte. Thompson, 'B' Coy,* being shot through the abdomen. Harper was
very much cut up about it.
The officers played a scrap team from 'A' and got beaten 3:1 but we hadn't out a
decent team. I was very off-form and quite out of condition.
*952 Pte Duncan Thomson from London, aged 25. Although not clear from the diary Pte Thompson
died as a result.
21 January 1916
Battalion parade at 8:30 a.m. Marched through Mirvaux to attack Herissart. All the
brigade was in it and plenty of red caps* about. The 5th (A Coy in the firing line)
advanced across the valley and up the long slope to the village which we 'took', No.
4 capturing a machine gun and dashing up the street to the consternation of the old
women. Marched back over the hill to Mirvaux and then home, the Coy commanders
going to Rubempre for a conference.
Fortunately the day kept up, but running over ploughed fields in full marching order
was rather tough work. Absolutely done out between yesterday and today. Capt.
Sutherland in at tea (salmon and eggs, and a cake which Bob sent out).
*'Red caps' here is probably a reference to staff officers, who wore a red band round their caps, rather
than the more common usage to refer to military policemen.
22 January 1916
Had 'A' Coy bombers today, finishing off the live test. A number didn't get through.
Football match between Sergeants and officers in the afternoon. Unfortunately the
day broke down and the ground was very heavy. Sergeants won 2:1. Capt.
Sutherland played outside-left and scored for us.
Tosh returned at tea time and started to tell his experiences at the grenade school.
In great form and brought back a case of whisky with him.
Colonel Davidson left today for England and we have got Col. Spooner DSO, 2nd
Lanc. Fus. for C.O. We were all sorry to part with our late Colonel as he was
becoming more and more popular, and there is a good deal of feeling that an
Englishman should be put in command of a Highland regiment. Sat in Irma's all
evening and as usual got no letters written.
23 January 1916
Raw and misty this morning. Church parade at 10 a.m., everybody trying to look as
smart as possible because of the new C.O. Brigadier also on parade. Gathered in
Irma's after parade to criticise the sermon which was poor. Tosh and I walked up to
bombing trenches.
Spent the afternoon writing. Stevenson, 4th Black Watch, who was at Flesselles with
Tosh came over to tea. Sat in Irma's most of the evening.
24 January 1916
Tosh and I had 'B' Coy's bombers today and put them through the live test. Cold and
some drizzly rain. C.O. and adjutant visited the school.
Fine starry night. Heard what I was told afterwards told was a Zeppelin, pass over
about 8:45 p.m. It was reported travelling South over Arras a little earlier. Too dark to
see anything.
25 January 1916
Route march 9 a.m. via Pierregot, Rubempre, Herissart and Beaucourt. Splendid day
of sunshine and bracing frosty air. Pipes bad today, the pipe-major being on leave. A
lot of French soldiers (292 Regt) in Rubempre - big strapping men nearly everyone.
Had to go along a very bad bit of road between Herissart and Beaucourt. Got home
about 1:30 p.m. Dinner about 2 p.m.
Reader and Fraser*, two new officers just arrived had dinner with us. Fraser was
afterwards posted to 'A' Coy. A draft of 4 officers altogether arrived today so we have
now 35.
Sat in the billet across the road most of the evening. Splosh and Davie came in
about 10 p.m. and the latter insisted on singing his latest songs and then translated
them into French for Irma's sake. Got to bed about 11 p.m. Fraser in his valise taking
the floor.
*2/Lt William Reader, an accountant from Leeds, was killed in action serving with 1/5 Seaforths in Jul
17. 2/Lt James Fraser, a trader in Artic produce from Monifieth, was killed in action serving with the
trench mortar battery of 152 Bde in Mar 18.
26 January 1916
Breakfast at 7 a.m. Battalion moved off at 7:45 to Herissart, by same route as
yesterday. Dull day, cold but dry. Had a fairly long wait on several occasions. Idea
was that Bde was Advance Guard of German forces advancing on Amiens: to drive
British battalion out of Rubempre. 5th were in reserve and weren't needed so we
were in column of route all the time. Marched home from Herissart arriving 1:20 p.m.
Match with 4th Camerons today: they beat us 3:1 but had advantage of football
boots. Fight on the field and a Cameron player sent off. Capt. Sutherland in for tea haddies and curried prawns, etc.
27 January 1916
Kit inspection in the football field. Men's boots in a bad state. Officers of 'A' and 'B'
under Tosh in the afternoon for bombing. Bombed along the trench and threw
several live.
28 January 1916
'A' and 'B' Coys bombing this morning, all the officers being there too. Tosh
demonstrating with his pipe in his cheek in front of the C.O. Company drill. Halfholiday so as to get things packed up. Squared up the mess in the evening.
29 January 1916
Up at 6:45. Paraded 9:15. Marched by Pierregot, Herissart, Toutencourt, Lealvillers
to Acheux, arriving 1:30. Misty and close, roads soft: heavy marching and we were
glad of the frequent halts although they were short enough. 'A' Coy in canvas shacks
without straw. Shand, Fraser and I in a small bedroom. 'A' feeding at H.Q. which we
found in a Maison de Retraite which is still inhabited by about three of the nuns.
Snow white table cloth, and crockery on the table. The sun had come through by this
time and things looked decidedly cheery in spite of the frugality of the get-up.
Went to last performance of Robinson Crusoe by 4th Div. Follies, in the Sucrerie.
Orchestra splendid and scenery very good too.
30 January 1916
Orderly officer today so couldn't go to the Voluntary Church Parade in the Theatre.
Shand marched down the 10 men who turned up. Blacko and I paid the Coy this
morning. The men always want more money than the Major is willing to pay them.
Sat in the billet in the afternoon, writing.
31 January 1916
Wakened Shand at quarter to five. Rose at six, shaved and washed and took the
Coy over to Lealvillers by 7:30, picking up tools there and going out to a railway
cutting. Very cold day so the men worked well and didn't have a fall out except for
dinner, which was brought over by the cooker at 11:30. Very clean work as the soil is
a sandy clay. The most difficult part is the levelling off as it is intended to lay the line
on the clay surface to begin with and get slag from Bethune to lay down afterwards.
Got back to billets about 4:30. The pioneers were very well pleased with the work
done. The 6th Argylls made a very bad impression.
There is no concert party in the Theatre this week as the Division is going out to rest.
Had a letter tonight from home telling me about Frank Soutar's* death in
Mesopotamia.
*2/Lt Frank Henderson Soutar, 2
Thurso.
nd
Black Watch, KIA 21 Jan 16 - son of the Rev Alex Soutar of
February 1916
1 February 1916
Black took the company out today. Gid, Johnnie P. and I rode over to the 10th Bde
bomb school at Beaussart. Very cold, but bright. Saw the West Gun and a Mills* fired
from a rifle, like a rifle grenade: also a 9.2" in the hedge.
Afternoon, went to Geo. Murray's class - explanation of the prismatic compass and
then made a small survey down beside the Sucrerie.**
Had tea at the Expeditionary Force Canteen and wandered home. Game of chess
with the Doctor. Dinner and so to bed. Fraser has been in bed most of the day, and
the Doc looking after him but at night he was better. Had a letter today from home
saying Frank Soutar has been killed in Mesopotamia.
*The West Spring Gun was a device for throwing grenades - it was effectively a hinged arm pulled
back against an arrangement of 24 springs, a grenade was placed at the tip of the arm and then the
arm released - it resembled nothing more than a Roman siege engine. It had a short operational
career. The Mills Bomb was the standard pattern hand grenade (the 'pineapple' familiar from the
movies) - the addition of a metal rod which fitted down the barrel of a rifle allowed it to be propelled
(using a blank cartridge) to ranges far beyond what was possible by throwing. This remained in
service for the rest of the war. A 9.2" was a heavy artillery piece. If JBC had been commanding a
platoon in 1917/18 it would have consisted of 4 sections - one with a Lewis machine gun, one of
'bombers' i.e. grenade throwers, one who used their rifles to fire grenades and the fourth of riflemen.
All a far cry from the platoon of 30 'plain' riflemen on 1915/16.
**Sucrerie = sugar beet mill.
2 February 1916
Fraser took the company out today. Capt. Rutherford, Johnnie P. and I rode over to
Beaussart to the 10th Bde bombing school. Saw West Gun, and Mills Bomb fired as
a rifle grenade.
Spent the afternoon with George Murray's map reading class and made a sort of
survey down at the Sucrerie with the prismatic compass. Tea at the B.E.F. Canteen.
3 February 1916
Paraded with Coy. at 7:10 a.m. Fine bright morning but a red sky, and very cold.
Worked out at cutting just beyond Lealvillers - men doing splendid execution. Had
stew off the cooker for dinner. Back to Acheux about 4:15.
4 February 1916
Cold and wet today and I was glad it wasn't my turn to take the parade - Fraser doing
it. A few words on march discipline from the Adjutant, embodying mostly the C.O.s
very common sense ideas on the same. Map reading class under George Murray,
but he didn't welcome discussion.
Cleared up in the afternoon. Walked over to Forceville and found John Gray in a
smoke helmet leading his men round a field. Went to his billet with him. He is quite
content with his life now. He's with the 12th Field Ambulance, and has been out
since the very beginning. Took the Coy. for a bath at the Sucrerie and nearly had a
mutiny as some of them didn't want to bath.* Not very nice, especially as my
sympathies were with the men.
*Factories and breweries were often used as communal baths.
5 February 1916
Fortunately this has been a fine day. Breakfast early and saw all the billets clean and
tidy. Marched off at 9:30 a.m., 'C' Coy leading. Splendid day for marching, very clear
and cold although a bit soft underfoot. Arrived at Molliens shortly after 1 p.m. to find
half our billets collared by 6th A&SH: consequently we are a bit squashed. I got in
with Major McMillan and Gid, in the Major's house, so am O.K.
The Major is now 2nd in Command of Bn and Blacko temp. O.C. 'A' Coy. Officers
played a scratch team from Battn. and drew 1 all. Crowe* one of the latest officers is
first class player.
*2/Lt Lindsay Tudor Crowe.
6 February 1916
Cold morning. Joint Church Parade with 6th Argylls. Fortunately we had our backs to
the wind. Haircut, the first I believe since going on leave. Rode with Black and Finnie
by Rainneville and Cardonette and back across-country. I had the Major's horse,
which was 'in fair heart'.
7 February 1916
Orderly officer today. A number of us went up to the bombing trenches in the afternoon to help Tosh to get rid of some superfluous 'lives'. Had some bombing up the
trench with them. Tosh absolutely happy. The evening was wet. Everybody
preparing for the shift.
8 February 1916
Rose early and packed my valise as Heckie Murray was busy at the Mess. The rain
was just beginning when I was washing outside. Breakfast over I had to see about
squaring off the mess, and billets had to be inspected as well. Col. Spooner is very
particular about billets being left clean, and Major McMillan was detailed to look after
that.
The rain cleared off shortly before 9 a.m., when we fell in. The starting point was the
exit to Molliens, so the Brigade was drawn up inside the village and consequently
there was a good deal of congestion and 'A' just got into position as the head of the
column moved off. It turned out a splendid day for marching and when we got
beyond St Gratien we had a fine view away down the valley which lay below us. The
rolling spurs with their thick covering of brilliantly green woods up towards Baizieux
and Warly looked particularly fine. Passed through Querrieu and Pont-Noyelles and
saw our old billets of July. Halted for a rest beyond P.Noyelle and again outside
Corbie.
The marching was bad the last hour and led to a heated argument between Splosh
and the C. Sergeant Major. Arrived in Corbie about 1:30 p.m. The men were billeted
in the upper storeys of the cafes, etc. Fred Harper and I are together in quite a
decent billet with however 60 men over our heads. Mess is in the Café opposite
where we had a good lunch and then I went to bed with symptoms of a dose of flu'.
9 February 1916
Felt rather washed out this morning as a result of feverishness; so had breakfast in
bed and didn't get up till about dinner time. The Major, George Murray and some
others came up to see me. In the afternoon got orders to go to Flenicourt for a month
so my leave is postponed for a month. The Adjutant tells me I'll have to take his job
when he goes, so I told him I didn't want it but evidently my inclinations won't be
consulted.
We went to the Cinema show tonight. Wedgewood of the Trench Mortar Battery and
of Hotel d'Authuille fame has wedged himself into our mess. Madame is great stuff
and has five daughters of all sizes who 'help' in the Café.
10 February 1916
Paraded at 9 a.m. Dry but very cold. The Company marched out the Bray Road till
we found a sheltered parade ground in lee of a fir wood, overlooking the ponds and
marshes of the Somme. Fine day and could get a good view. The right bank of the
Somme is very high and almost precipitous - composed of chalk. The other bank is
low and rises very gradually. Did some tube helmet drill, dummy bomb throwing, etc.
The heavy guns were going at it strong today, about due east, probably round about
Frise.
In the afternoon Black and I checked the pay books to see if any men were
overdrawn. A good number of them were.
11 February 1916
Wet today. Kit inspection in the billets in the forenoon. Afternoon - nil. Went to bed
early but was prevented from sleeping for some time by our own mess across the
road which became very rowdy as the evening wore on. 'For he's a jolly good fellow'
and 'Egorra' led by Tosh in his stentorian tones threatened to keep me awake till
they dispersed, which fortunately they did in fairly decent time.
12 February 1916
Tosh had to parade at 8:30 a.m. with party to mark out the proposed bombing
trenches which the battalion is to work on today, so I went with him as advisor. We
got everything marked out when a cyclist to report the parade cancelled. All local
courses are to stop and no bombing trenches to be dug. Marched back to billets and
on enquiring at OR Tosh was told that according to latest orders trenches are to be
dug.
5th Sea. officers played 4th Cameron offs this afternoon. Shand and I turned up late
which occasioned some delay but by the time we turned up our places had been
filled. Not very sorry as I still have a cold.
Went to the Cinema tonight and sent all the servants. Performance practically a
repetition of last nights and very boring. Had to go upstairs after lights out to stop a
row, and found several peacemakers hanging on to Ha' Wull who was rather high.
13 February 1916
Wet. Got Madame's account which works out at 7 francs per head per day. Handed
the mess a/cs over to Shand in a more or less chaotic state and glad to get rid of
them.
Bus left the Place at 11 a.m. Very crushed. Through Amiens to Flinecourt arriving
1:30 a.m. Got our billets fixed up, everything having been perfectly arranged. Mine
quite a good one with a big bed, table, stove, etc. Lunch at the Mess, and dinner at
7:30.
14 February 1916
9 a.m. Inspection of syndicates, in Chateau grounds, by Commandant - Col. Kentish,
followed by opening address in the lecture hall upstairs. All Adjutants have been
collected into one syndicate so we have changed our Mess too and struck a very
comfortable one. Capt Yates, Indian Cavalry, Syndicate Commander.
2 p.m. Lecture and demonstration of Drill. Pouring wet so it didn't last long and we
came back at the double, wet through. Lecture at 6 p.m., on leadership, by
Commandant.
15 February 1916
8:45 a.m. Lecture on Attack Normal (i.e. open country) by Chief Instructor. Followed
by demonstration of Extended Order Drill by the Cambridgeshire Territorials. Very
cold. Followed then by practice in the same by ourselves.
2 p.m. Drill - in the Jute Factory as it was pouring. 3 p.m. Bayonet fighting. 6 p.m.
Lecture on Leadership.
16 February 1916
8:45. Lecture on 'Fire Control' by CI. Went out in buses to small wood other side of
village where we lay on our stomachs for an hour in lashing rain doing a fire control
scheme on the Cambridgeshires who advanced over the opposite ridge in artillery
formation and then extended. Absolutely soaked.
2 p.m. Lecture on sanitation etc. by MO.
17 February 1916
8:45. Lecture by Col. Kentish in which he described two examples of the attack in
open warfare in which he himself had taken part - attack from Fletre on Melerin and
the adjacent ridge, and that that on St. Julian after the first use of gas by the
Germans. At the latter place they lost 3,200 out of a Brigade of 5,000. A lot of
bungling on part of Staff. Demonstration of first three stages of the attack by the
Cambridgeshires followed by Company drill under the Adjutant (late Sergt. Major of
Guards).
2 p.m. More drill and more bayonet fighting - this time at the sacks. 6 p.m. Lecture on
Esprit de Corps by Commandant.
18 February 1916
8:45. Demonstration of last three stages of attack, followed by practice of same by
ourselves. Raining and very cold. Method of consolidation of captured position was
the only thing worth seeing - extension to one arm interval, so many men being told
off to bay, so many to traverse (8 and 4).
2 p.m. Lecture on 'Interior Economy' and then on Courts Martial by one of our own
syndicate. 6 p.m. Esprit de Brigade, by Commandant.
19 February 1916
Travelled by motor-bus to Domart and did an attack scheme on the ground.
Returned twelve-thirty. Spent afternoon and evening in billet trying to get rid of
neuralgia which has troubled me all week.
20 February 1916
Breakfast at 9:30. Walked up the Amiens road past the windmill and a good view of
the country down to the valley of the Somme. Splendid morning, and quite warm.
Plenty larks, just like home. Spent the day in the billet reading and writing.
21 February 1916
8:45. Lecture on Advanced Guard attack; followed by a scheme on the DomantL'Stode road. The right bank of the Somme here is very high and has a very good
command, the river itself runs as usual through broad marshy flats.
2 p.m. Bayonet fighting in the Café du Centre, followed by drill.
22 February 1916
Long lecture on 'Trench Orders' this morning by Col. Kentish. Emphasised necessity
for system in everything. Major Riddall took us in the afternoon on writing of reports
and messages.
Commandant and Major Stansfield were entertained to dinner tonight by our
syndicate. Bon dinner. I sat beside Gordon, Adjt of 4th Seaforths.
23 February 1916
Lecture on Outposts, followed by a scheme at the crossroads near Surcamps. Very
cold but very interesting.
24 February 1916
Opening lecture of engineering course by Capt. Chase. Method of laying out
trenches in front of firing line and getting parties onto them. Col. Kentish took us on
Adjutant's duties. Clerk-Adjutants and fighting adjutants.*
*Probably the difference between adjutants who functioned as administrators and those who
functioned as operations officers - doubtless the personality and preferences of the battalion CO
played a large part in determining which.
25 February 1916
Still more lectures from Capt Chase as the weather has been too bad to work
outside. Has been freezing hard for several days and today it started snowing and
continued all day.
26 February 1916
Lecture on Patrol Work and Scouting by the Commandant, and description of some
of the small scouting incidents round the mill at Hamel. Necessity of a good system
of scouting. I'm afraid that our own Company Commanders wouldn't agree to their
best men being taken from their companies. I think with us the men would have to be
organised within the Companies. Had half an hour's digging the snow out of the
trenches as the thaw is setting in. Spent the afternoon and evening in the billet.
27 February 1916
Good deal of slush on the roads this morning so I decided to put off again my visit to
Amiens. Went to find the cave they speak about, expecting it to be a prehistoric
dwelling but couldn't find anything but a fancy grotto. A lot of British troops, some at
least newly out, passed through today and rather blocked the French artillery which
was also streaming through towards the south. The British are taking over the Arras
sector from them so I expect there are them on the move - probably away to give a
hand at Verdun, where the French are having a pretty anxious time. Their guns
seem pretty antiquated - those that passed through today. They gave us an
exhibition in the afternoon. The gun had to be relaid after every round so they
couldn't fire much quicker than about 1 round every 3 mins. Their horses were pretty
good and tough looking.
28 February 1916
The village is full of French artillerymen but part moved this forenoon. A great many
guns went through at a great speed today - drawn by motor vans which seemed to
contain the gun teams. We had another demonstration, this time with a Howitzer.
Also saw a patent hook arrangement which the French are getting occasionally in
the horses' fodder which is coming from America and is evidently being doctored in
this way by the Allemands.* Col. Spooner was attached to the school this week but
was recalled today to the battalion.
Sandbagging a parapet this morning. Machine gun (Lewis) and drill every afternoon
this week.
*I have seen references to the doctoring of British animal feed by German sympathizers in the US
using poison and similar 'hooks'.
29 February 1916
All the artillery cleared out today. More troops went through by train. Started wiring.
They are strong on the necessity for drill and system and it certainly helps to get the
work done quietly and quickly. Commandant gave us another talk on Adjutants.
Captain Yates in to dinner. Canadian officers lectured on the bombing raid on La
Petite Douve farm done by them in November last.
March 1916
1 March 1916
Put up French wire today and practised rapid laying out of trenches. Bath in the Jute
Factory. Concert in the White Chateau in the evening.
2 March 1916
Started revetments. Doing an expanded metal one. Others doing different kinds.
Capt Grove-White on Loos from the RE point of view.
3 March 1916
Continued the revetment, putting in firestep.
Afternoon - firing the Lewis gun.
Major Riddal on the German and the British mobilisation. He was RTO at Frimley,
near Aldershot, and although war was declared on 4th Aug, no troops moved from
there till the 13th. All the timetables, etc. had been worked out years beforehand and
revised in June of 1914. Germany violated Belgian and Luxembourg's neutrality on
July 31/Aug 1 but our Govt. didn’t act for 4 days.
4 March 1916
Snowing hard so outside work was no good. Lectures instead, including one from
Major Campbell*, Gordon Highlanders and bayonet expert.
Spent the afternoon in the billet. Had a letter from Moira.
Lecture (voluntary) by Commandant 3rd Army Artillery School. Very long and
tedious.
*Campbell the bayonet expert crops up in various WW1 memoirs. His lectures and demonstrations on
'The Spirit of the Bayonet' certainly seem to have made an impression. The practical, as opposed to
moral, effect of the bayonet in WW1 is questionable.
5 March 1916
A fine frosty morning so after a late breakfast I set out for Hangest where I got the
train to Amiens. Had a swagger lunch at the Rhin, where I met George Murray,
Kestin, Bulger and McDonald and got news of the battalion. They are back at
Molliens and expect to go up to Arras early this week. Visited the Cathedral where
the service was going on. Many sightseers - Scotch, English and French poilus.
There are a few fine windows but the majority are ordinary glass. Interior is therefore
quite bright and not much of the dim religious light about it. The front doors are
sandbagged up to prevent damage from bombs. Went into the Picture House and
waited till train time - 6 p.m. Bus waiting at Hangest, took us back in time for dinner.
6 March 1916
Frosty and bright. Took bus to Surcamps which we put in a state of defence theoretically. Discussion in the village school. Afternoon machine gun and drill test.
Evening, lecture by Maj. Gen. Montgomery, late of 4th Div, on Loos* from the Staff
point of view. He discussed the idea of 'limited objectives' and showed that, in view
of their knowledge of the German dispositions behind the line, it was really a race
against time. The mistake was not having reserves up, and also seeing that they had
failed to get right through the first day and had given the Germans time to man their
third line, that they didn’t delay the attack on it until it had been properly bombarded.
The 21st and 24th Divs made the attack next morning, were unsuccessful - and
'withdrew'.
*The controversy (which continues) regarding the handling of reserves at Loos was the final nail in the
coffin of Sir John French as Commander-in-Chief. Sir Douglas Haig replaced him in Dec 15.
7 March 1916
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8 March 1916
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9 March 1916
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10 March 1916
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11 March 1916
First parade at 9 a.m. for bombing, the only thing of note being the bombing officer in
charge got a bit in the forehead.
At 10:45 we paraded again and marched up to the field to see Major Campbell's
squad give another demonstration with the bayonet. General Allenby and a lot of
staff had turned up, but Haig was later. E. Surreys and London Scottish did an attack
with smoke and phosphorus bombs. Afterwards, inter-syndicate wiring competition
was won by NCOs of the 51st Div.
C-in-C wasn’t much to look at but I hear everybody stands in fear and trembling of
him. We marched past him to the tune of 'The British Grenadiers' and must have put
some swagger into it as Haig said to Kentish that the drill was splendid, and his
praise is scanty. Commandant interviewed us singly in the afternoon and was very
affable.
12 March 1916
Breakfast about 9. Took bus with Moser and Gordon to Hangest, where we found the
Amiens train an hour late. Fortunately it was a perfect day. When we got in we made
straight for the Café Courmantel (?) in the Rue de Trois Cailloux, where we had a 20
franc lunch. I was rather aghast at the price but said nothing, making silent resolution
but the experience is worth something.
I spent the afternoon between the Cathedral and the Picture house, and a walk
round the boulevards which I hadn’t known of before. Got back to Flixecourt in time
for dinner.
13 March 1916
Another grand day. Demonstration of how to teach bayonet fighting: the method is at
least simple but Campbell has a way with him which is all his own. Last lecture by
the Commandant and the usual eyewash about the keenness etc. of everybody.
Buses for the different divisions began to leave about 2 p.m. with many goodbyes.
We were especially sorry breaking up the mess which in spite of rather indifferent
feeding had been a very happy one. We of the 51st Div left at 2:45 p.m. and got into
Doullens at 4:30. Fine ride, and splendid view of the country which didn’t lose any, or
very little, of its variety between the two places. Our division was to pick us up at
Doullens but the bus didn’t arrive till 9:30 so we had time for tea and dinner. It is
quite a nice place but crowded with troops moving through - the London Scottish
being very prominent and I formed a much better impression of them than I did at
Flixecourt.
When we left at 9:30 the moon was up and pretty cold travelling but I managed to get
a bit sleep on the top of the bus. Met a lot of French artillery coming South: their
horses didn’t seem accustomed to motors. Arrived at last in Maroeuil, which was
apparently deserted and is in a very dilapidated condition. We found our QM Stores
at last and got McEwan* wakened up, and so to bed.
*Regimental Quarter Master Sergeant John McEwan. The senior NCO on the QM's staff. An old
regular soldier who had served in Malta, Crete, Egypt, Sudan (winning the DCM in 1898), and who
th
won the MM with 5 Seaforths. His medals were recently auctioned with a reserve price of £10,000.
14 March 1916
Breakfast with Major Morrison and Barney. Maroeuil does'nt afford good billets either
for men or officers although it may be better when the remnants of the French clear
out. Very hot this morning and walking up to the trenches was as much of a pain as
a pleasure. When we got up to the Arras-Bethune road we had a fine view of the
lines of trenches - the Labyrinth.
It took us a good couple of hours to get from Maroeuil to Battn. HQ and would have
taken much longer if we hadn’t come across the open the first part of the way. Met
the Major in the communication trench and presently came across Blacko and the
rest of them in steel helmets.
Hamish took me round the lines which are rather impressive as we are only about 40
yards from the Bosch and the advanced posts of both sides bomb each other. While
we were at tea, 24 trench mortars came over but did no damage. New officer in 'A' C. A. McKay,* formerly in 9th R. Scots, and employed in Carnegie Library, George IV
Bridge. Fraser has gone to the trench mortars.
*Charles Alexander McKay. KIA 21 Mar 18.
15 March 1916
On duty from 12 - 3 a.m. Very quiet. Germans were working opposite Pt 61. There
are a number of French soldiers left behind to listen in the old French mines for the
sounds of Germans sapping. Unfortunately they aren’t engineers and have never
sunk a mine in their lives and so are liable to get the wind up. One of them told us
this morning in a fit of trembling that 61 would likely go up at dawn, so we withdrew
our posts but nothing happened. Sgt Alexander of 'C' Coy was hit in the back this
forenoon while going round to see the saps before taking over.
'C' Coy relieved us during the afternoon. We went back into support where the
dugout accommodation is rather scanty and many of the men are sleeping in the fire
trench.
16 March 1916
Duty 3 - 6 a.m. Fine sunrise and very bright all day. Great aerial activity in which the
Germans were uppermost. We spent the day draining the trench and putting in
boards. The trench is very shallow so that in parts we are visible from the waist
upwards - only to observation balloons though or people away on the ridge behind as we are in dead ground to their front line.
McKay and I went over and visited the 7th A&S who are on our right. We went out
across the open to find how big the gap was between us and them. On duty till 1
a.m.
17 March 1916
Wakened at 7:30 by the Major who was shouting at the door for Black. Rifle
inspection in the trench. Fatigue parties on all day preparing the parapet and firestep for reveting. It was rather misty so we hadn’t to be so careful.
The Major and Capt. Murray came over in the forenoon and Black and I went back to
'B' Coy with them, where George Murray found to his horror that his whisky was all
Perrier.
Hamish turned up in the evening bringing cigarettes with him - we have been in great
straits the last two days and everybody is the same. I had from 9 till 12. A party of 24
was working until then on the trench at 54. We had to send a fatigue party up to 'C'
as their trenches got badly trench mortared although they had only one very slight
casualty.
18 March 1916
Didn’t waken until nearly 9 a.m. Breakfast, and a 'shave-wash'. Nearly all the
company was away on fatigue all forenoon, and in the afternoon as many men as we
had tools for tackled the communication trenches to the front line. It came on rain in
the late afternoon but cleared up again after tea. Our snipers are having good sport
just now and have accounted for more than German - the Hun being unaccustomed
to being sniped at here. A good few aeroplanes of both sides over today, but no
fighting.
Another fatigue party away to 'C’'s lines and just after I got into bed - about 8:30 - I
heard the Major round asking for another to finish work at 54. A fine sunset tonight
and silhouetted against it the ruined town of Mount St Eloi.
19 March 1916
Duty 3 -6 a.m. Fine morning. Was told to go on leave today. Left the trenches in the
early evening, rather ashamed to be going away again so soon. Marched to Ecurie,
where I got him a bus and arrived at Bethune just in time - 2:20 a.m.
20 March 1916
Boulogne 8:30 a.m. Breakfast, shave and hair-cut. London 4 p.m. Ran across
Cattanach in the Strand Palace. Saw 'A Little Bit of Fluff' at the Criterion. Got into
sleeper at 11:15 p.m. for Edinburgh.
21 March 1916
Edin 7:30 a.m. Breakfast at the R.B. Bath at Warrender Park. Parkside. Picture
house. Train 9:45. Met David at Perth.
22 March 1916
Breakfast basket at Bonar. Thurso 1 p.m. Bob meeting me, and Mother.
23 March 1916
Round by Weydale in a snowstorm, to harden Pieser's muscles. E.C. Organ.
24 March 1916
Out to Bardnaclavan for the same purpose as yesterday. Squad of girls in tonight.
25 March 1916
Snowing all day. Helped to paper Tottie's lobby. Dick Whittington.
26 March 1916
Out to Janetstone with Father, Bob and May. In afternoon James's. Taits'. Evening Church (Congregational) and Keiths.
27 March 1916
Train 9:50. Got off at Dunfermiline. Arrived Xgates about 10 p.m. And found Auntie
waiting.
28 March 1916
Edin. by the 5:20 p.m. Parkside, Jordan Lane, 10 p.m. for Bedford.
29 March 1916
Snowed up at Leicester till 6 p.m. London 10 p.m. Strand Palace.
30 March 1916
No money. Train 8:30. Folkstone. No boat till 8 p.m. Husband.
31 March 1916
Boulogne about 11 p.m. Hotel Victoria. Train at 1 p.m. Very slow journey and no
food. Three hours wait at St. Pol till 12:30 p.m.
April 1916
1 April 1916
Got into Aubigny about 2 a.m. and found motor buses waiting for us. Arrived
Marouiel 3 a.m. and after hunting round for the company - they came out the
trenches last night, discovered my valise in a spacious building and was soon inside
it.
Up at 7:30 and found the rest asleep upstairs. No fatigues here so the men are
getting a good rest. The billets are rather better than usual and weather-tight. The
town has been knocked about a great deal. Played a scratch team from 'A' Coy and
got beaten, but it was a good game.
2 April 1916
On duty in the billet today and spent most of the time lying on the grass in the back
garden. Went through the underground passage below the Chateau. Many
inscriptions on the chalk walls, written by Frenchmen during different bombardments
dating back to Nov. 14.
Church Service in the evening in the garden, Rev. Herbert Reid officiating and
preaching quite well.
3 April 1916
Another fine day. Inspected platoon smoke helmets in the Church-yard while the
organ played inside. Also the men of the latest drafts, mostly Irishmen and not very
promising looking.
4 April 1916
Rather colder today. Inspected the remainder of Coy along with McKay. A good few
of the tube-helmets seem to be deficient, which fact is rather annoying the RQMS,
who seems to be inclined to institute himself as the sole judge.
5 April 1916
McKay and I took the Coy for a route march today. Not very pleasant tramping over
the rough cobble stones with which the village streets are paved. Quite a different
type of village from those in Picardy.
Had a dinner tonight in the estaminet downstairs in honour of Tosh's and Shand's
birthdays which have been passed for some time. The Major came in later on and
we had songs from Black, Tosh, Nickie and Shand with violent piano
accompaniment from Nickie.
6 April 1916
Packing up all forenoon, always a rotten job. Dinner at 12. Hamish went up ahead of
Coy, which left by platoons at intervals, commencing 1:45. Took it very easy going
up and had no excitement, arriving at the front line about 4 p.m. Relief didn’t take
very long.
Tea about six. Shand and Tosh sleeping down near H.Q.,Hamish, McKay and I
being distributed over Coy. H.Q. and Melvich House. I was on duty till midnight. Our
posts are much weaker than the 6th Seaforths as we have only 66 privates and
about 22 NCOs. Paper strength of the Coy is about 184. Bosch very quiet.
7 April 1916
Warm and sunny: men at work cleaning up the trench and lifting the boards.
Germans very quiet and practically no rifle fire: a few aerial torpedoes at 57 one of
which nearly got the C.O. and the acting Brigadier (Col. Baird, 8th Argyles).
Spent most of the day with Hamish working out a defence for this sub-sector in case
of either or both of the mines going up. The platoon sergeants were called along and
told the scheme so that every man would know his job. Working parties from 'C'
tonight deepening the trench at L and clearing the mud at 61.
8 April 1916
On duty from 12 to 3 a.m. Went round with Sandy Mac: everything very quiet and
nothing to be heard. Quiet all day too and spent most of the afternoon with Hamish
and Morrison R.M. looking at point 127 where the Germans are mining from.
Just before tea Tosh fired a number of rifle grenades from support line. McKay and I
went up to sap 137 to watch the effect and Tosh almost landed one on our heads.
Fortunately it was a dud.
We had to withdraw all the men except for a few sentries at 8 p.m. for a
bombardment of enemy trenches by our artillery, the battalion on our left joining in
with rifle and machine gun fire, and the T. Mortar batteries doing their bit too. The
Bosch replied very feebly and if the idea was to get him to line his parapet I don't
think our people succeeded. About 1/2 an hour later he landed two torpedoes just
beside Melvich House so we had shift one of the posts.
9 April 1916
Wakened at 3 a.m. by McKay. Very cold and thick; hoar frost on the sides of the
trench. Stand-to at 4 a.m. for an hour. The night has been extremely quiet - a few
rifle grenades on point 137. Lay down again at 6 and slept till breakfast time when
Tosh turned up alone, Shand being fevered and in bed.
Bosch was quiet all forenoon on our front but trench mortared the 6th Argylls pretty
heavily, and ours replied. A fair amount of work was done at deepening the trench
between L and 137. Captain Harper was up arranging about the relief which was to
take place in the afternoon, 'C' relieving 'A'.
The relief came off all right and without hitch and we got back into support in good
time for the men to make their teas before going down for their rations. The Support
line is much improved since I saw it last and fire-stepped throughout a fair part of its
length. Visited 'C' Coy after tea and also Shand who goes to hospital tonight,
apparently with 'trench fever'. Hamish as O.C. Coy has a dugout on the main
communication trench, beside CSM. Had a party out in point of support line, wiring
up a gap there. Slow work as most of men were new to the job. Lots of French rifles
lying out with fixed bayonets.
10 April 1916
Breakfast about 9 a.m. The C.O. and Adjie came along in the forenoon and made
sarcastic remarks about the amount of wire out, but fortunately I wasn’t there. A fine
day. Capt. Murray came round just before dinner, hunting as usual for souvenirs.
McKay has been busy all day at an aluminium ring he is making and he kept me
awake half the night filing away at it. I slept most of the afternoon.
In the evening there was a good deal of trench-mortaring on the enemy's part, all
along the line. 'C' had a good bit of their trench blown in, and so had 'D' and the latter
also had Coy. H.Q. knocked about and set on fire. Only two or three slight
casualties. We had fatigue parties up at both front coys. repairing the trench and I
had a wiring party out as well.
Another mine went up last night below the 6th Argylls and buried a patrol of six men.
The Huns didn’t try a raid. Fewer aeroplane fights than last time we were here and
our planes seem to be going over their lines with greater impunity while an Allemand
is seldom seen.
11 April 1916
Wet and cold today and not much work done beyond what was absolutely
necessary. We sat in the Mess most of the day and were entertained by the mining
officer of the Corps whom Tosh brought in for dinner. Besides the tall yarns he told,
he was quite interesting as regards the mines on our front. It dried up after tea at
which Reader assisted, and I had the wiring party out till 11:30 p.m.
The Corps Commander was round our lines yesterday and his report on the battalion
is not favourable to say the least of it, although the points he wants more attention
paid to are not very serious - wash and shave every day, clean boots, puttees, etc.,
no cigarette ends to be thrown about and such like.
12 April 1916
Cold and showery all day. 6th Seaforths relieved us in the early evening, Capt
McPherson representing the 'A' Coy of the 6th and having tea with us. The relief
went off quite smoothly and we got back to reserve trenches about 6 p.m., down in
the Chemin Creux.
Had supper - curried prawns, and haddies at 8 p.m. The Doctor (Townrow)* and
Fred Harper are to mess with us while we are here. Not a bad dugout, with 4 beds
full of lousy straw which we had taken out straight away; two forms, a table, etc and
all wooden lined.
*Lt. Victor Townrow, RAMC.
13 April 1916
Breakfast about 9 a.m., Hamish and I having it in bed partly to relieve congestion,
partly through laziness. Anyway we were still there at 11 o'clock and got caught by
the C.O. who was doing some strafing for the state of the trench and also because
there wasn’t an officer down to see the Coy. bathed at Anzin where they are this
morning.
McKay* and I set out and had a good tub although the trenches were pretty muddy.
Went into Anzin Church on our way back. Capt. Sutherland was in at tea having
newly returned from leave. Played the Doctor at chess - one all. McKay on fatigue
tonight till 2 a.m. every available man in the company being out.
*2/Lt Joseph McKay from Nairn.
14 April 1916
Up in better time today as we didn’t want a second row. The Company is doing night
fatigues only so there is nothing doing all day. Beat the Dr. at chess in the afternoon.
Took fatigue party of 50 men tonight to work under R.E. A few shrapnel came over
when we at the dump but fell short. Very slow going up the commn. trench and it
took us an hour and 3/4 to draw tools and get to the job. Very clear night and cold
but rain had stopped. Dropped work at 1:30 and got back to dug-outs about 2:30
a.m. All home leave stopped and those on leave recalled - whether for everybody or
only for 51st Div. we don't know; every sort of rumour going.
15 April 1916
Breakfast in bed as entitled to and had a long lie. Much better today. Tried to write
letters but failed. Beat the Dr. again. Tosh and I had a view of Neuville St. Vaast.
McKay took fatigue tonight.
16 April 1916
Went down to 'B' Coy with Hamish in the forenoon. Bosch were shelling a battery on
the other side of the road, with coal boxes. I hear they got a direct hit on one of the
guns. There was a plane over late last night, possibly a Bosch and they may have
spotted the flashes. 'Bulgar' in bed. Returned by the big mine crater in front of
Chemin Creux.
Took the fatigue tonight, Joe McKay* representing 'D' Coy. Came on to rain soon
after we got started but wasn’t more than a drizzle all night. About 12 p.m. a mine or
something seemed to go up pretty far on the left as the Bosch started with flares,
rapid fire broke out and soon the artillery joined in and the sky was lit up with the
flashes of guns and bursting shrapnel. There didn’t seem to be much German reply
and certainly none came our way.
*2/Lt Joseph McKay from Nairn.
17 April 1916
Wet most of the day and not much sign of it improving. Played more chess and was
beaten several times. The Doctor and McKay visited the Ouvrages Blanches tonight
and the latter brought back two German bombs which he has proceeded to tamper
with.
Hamish reluctantly took the fatigue tonight, the first piece of work he has done since
he became Company Commander, although we are so short-handed.
18 April 1916
Raining practically all day. The trenches are getting in a nasty state again. Germans
gave the 6th Argylls a hot time this forenoon, with H.E. It is not often they open out
with their artillery. They are usually content with putting an occasional shell into
some frequented spot and their shooting is usually pretty good.
We relieved 'B' Coy, 6th Seaforths this afternoon - in right support. Black returned
just before we left and we were very glad to see him. Relief went off A1 so far as we
were concerned. The dug-outs will just hold the men with some degree of comfort.
McKay and I are sleeping in Support line, and Black and Hamish in Coy. H.Q.
Hamish isn’t in a good mood today - the effects of the fatigue I think.
19 April 1916
Wet most of the day. Shaved before breakfast and inspected rifles at 9:30. The few
men that were left after headquarters fatigues had been provided for, were put on to
cleaning up the lines, the communication trenches and the left of our line being
particularly bad.
By afternoon there was a big difference. 'C' had one man killed by an aerial. The
weather looked like clearing in the afternoon but it came on wet again at night. I went
down to 'B' Coy and had a game of bridge. Geo Murray is in good form just now.
Very dark night coming back. We had Maconochie stew about 10 p.m. and a rum
ration.
*Pte Stewart Hoey, from Belfast.
20 April 1916
Today has been dry for a change. All the platoon on fatigue, so Sergt. Morrison and
myself had to set to on the trench: the C.O. came round while we were at it and as
he had already been along at dawn and had seen the state of the trenches then he
was well pleased with 'A' troop's work.
I went up to 46 after dinner and while standing there had rather a narrow squeak,
with a torpedo which laid out Eddie of 'C' Coy.* Was anxious for some time about
R.E. officer who was speaking to me at the time and who disappeared. However I
heard afterwards that he had got down the trench all right. Bosche then put a lot of
shrapnel round about the support line and had a hit inside communicator at 712. No
casualties. About 7 o'clock there was a very heavy artillery barrage put up far on the
left. Played bridge in 'B' Coy (Left Reserve) and then chess with the Doctor till about
11:30.
*Pte William Geddes Eddie, from Wick. Died of wounds 29 Apr.
21 April 1916
Fine morning. The Major visited us this forenoon and at the same time the Bosche
visited us with shrapnel, so we shifted. Went up to 'D' with him.
'A' relieved 'C' in the afternoon and in spite of foreboding we had no trouble, but
didn't neglect to take all precautions. The trenches were very dirty after all the rain,
and to make matters worse it came on to rain in the evening. Owing to the amount of
mud in the front line I was sent along to the left to work the two platoons there along
with Sgt. Jim Fraser. I slept at Coy. H.Q. till around 12, and then lugged along a jar
of rum for the men in the morning.
22 April 1916
Duty from 12 - 5 a.m. The Germans were working very hard at 127 all night. Shand
appeared about 5 and volunteered to put out the rum so I went back to Coy. H.Q.
Had breakfast in bed as there is very little accommodation in the dug-out. The men
were working at the trench most of the day pumping the water over the parados: the
pump we have is far too clumsy - two men can barely carry it.
I was on duty from 6 - 12 midnight and cabbed a supper off 'B'. It was a rotten night raining all the time - and although we listened carefully we could hear very few
sounds of the Germans working. The trenches are getting into a very bad state,
nearly knee deep in mud and water and since the men have no gum-boots they are
having a trying time. To my great relief the sky cleared just before I turned in. Slept
with Corp. Seaman but as I had only one thickness of blanket I felt very cold and was
glad to get up at 4 a.m.
23 April 1916
A grand morning so I indulged in a wash and a shave before breakfast. A British
plane came over as I was walking round to Coy H.Q. and flying daringly low was
greeted with 'massed machine guns' but got off Scot free. Black and C.S.M. went
round with rum about 6 a.m.
Slept all forenoon as I am beginning to feel groggy. Tea put me all right. The men
have been pumping water all day and have made a fair impression on the trench but
the saps are still very bad and quietness is hopeless. Some of the men have
incipient trench foot and one of mine who went to the Doctor hasn’t returned.
Turned in at 7 and lay till 12 but didn’t get much sleep as there were a lot of
interruptions - notably the arrival of soup at 10:30 which I had undertaken to take,
just to show there is no ill-feeling. The men don't seem to like it and prefer to live on
tea and marmalade, which as the C.O. says, can't be done.
24 April 1916
Duty from 12 - 5 a.m. Very quiet along our front but could hear the Bosch moving on
his trench boards - a thing we haven’t got in our front line. Stood-to, 3:30 to 4:30.
Blacko went round with rum-ration at 7 a.m., and I turned in.
Corps Commander was on the move today but didn’t trouble us. Volunteers were
asked for today for a raid on enemy trenches. Good response, especially from 'A',
but the men are too worn out just now to be keen. The trenches are dry now, except
between L and 137.
An aerial (dud) fell there this afternoon and was cautiously and scientifically removed
by the C.S.M. who usually takes these unpleasant jobs on himself. Our T.M.s (60
pdrs) started firing this afternoon and were dropping dangerously short. The handle
is a constant source of danger as it come whirring back and has already caused
some casualties.*
Was on duty from 6 - 12. Had supper with 'B', and was glad when midnight came as I
could hardly keep awake.
*This is presumably the type of trench mortar projectile known as a 'toffee apple' - this consisted of a
spherical warhead with an attached 'handle' that fitted down the barrel of the mortar.
25 April 1916
Stand to at 3:30. Turned in from 7 - 11:30.
Relieved at 4 p.m. by 6th Sea. No hitch. Went out by Labyrinth trench, and Ecurie.
The communication trenches were very muddy, and never seemed so long. Bosch
were crumping a battery just on our left as we came down to Anzin. It was a great
pleasure to get onto the top of the ground again, and we were no sooner clear of the
trench than we threw ourselves onto the grass and rested.
Marched onto Maroeuil, everybody pretty well done. Arrived at 7 p.m. to find spring
had come while we were in the trenches, and had transformed the garden. The
chestnut trees were in leaf, and cherry trees white with blossom.
26 April 1916
Sprained my ankle wrestling with Blacko. Spent most of the day in the garden
writing. Chess with the Doctor. Pandemonium.
27 April 1916
Slacked in the garden.
28 April 1916
Bosch put up eight or nine mines in the sector we were relieved from. At least six
were on our company front. 'A' Coy of the 6th had over 70 casualties - a lot of them
missing. The Germans tried a raid, but the 6th held them well in spite of their
casualties.
29 April 1916
Blank
30 April 1916
Church parade in the evening, out in the Garden. Not many present. Watched the
sunset from the top of the rise, and thought of this time last year.
(Unfortunately the rest of the diary for 1916 is unavailable, and is likely to
remain so, since the original was lost before it was transcribed. The following
was available.)
4 September 1916
Feeling sick to-day and went to bed early.
5 September 1916
Battalion going into the line to-day. Sent to hospital with trench fever. Passed thro'
Field Ambulance and sent straight on to C.C.S. at Estaires.
8 September 1916
Evacuated by barge to No. 7 General Hosp. St. Omer.
13 September 1916
Marked for Blighty!
15 September 1916
Train to Boulogne, state cabin, arrive Folkestone about 7 pm, London (No. 3 Gen.
Wandsworth) at 12 pm.
(Intervening days are blank, and no more entries)
1917-1919 SERVICE WITH THE KING'S AFRICAN RIFLES
1917
After being invalided back to England in 1916 from service with the 5th Seaforth Highlanders
of the 51st Highland Division, Lieutenant John Bruce Cairnie, was posted to the King’s African
Rifles. There was no diary found for the time between those postings, and what follows is
where he takes it up again.
For this African part of the diary we do not have the benefit of an expert commentator to
provide insight into the context of what was written, or the identities of the persons he
encountered.
THE JOURNEY OUT TO AFRICA
October 1917
11 October 1917
At 3.30 p.m., after lying for a couple of days in Plymouth Sound, we got up anchor
and passed out into the Channel. We were one of a convoy of nine ships, all of large
size, and all carrying troops for Africa and India. In addition to these we had a
number of civilian passengers: one vessel carried a Kaffir labour battalion. Our
escort consisted of a cruiser, two armed liners & a number of torpedo boats, these
making a screen round us to keep off the submarines. Each vessel carried a couple
of guns as additional protection, & concealment was sought for by camouflaging the
hulls etc. with weird impressionist designs.
The weather was fairly good, a slight breeze from the S.W. producing just sufficient
swell to remind us as we sat at tea & during the concert which followed, that we were
no longer behind the breakwater. By the time dinner was over, England except for
Eddystone & the Lizard light had disappeared into the darkness. During the night the
wind and sea rose considerably and we wakened in the morning to find walking a
difficulty and the usual abdominal misgivings, premonitory of sea-sickness, soon
made their appearance.
The next couple of days can be quickly passed over - altho’ at the time I didn’t think
so. The Llanstephan Castle has, I understand, the reputation for rolling & she
certainly lived up to it. The wind was still more during the second night & it was only
with difficulty that one could adhere to the bunk. This, and the creakings & noises of
falling crockery made sleep, at best, uneasy. There was a good deal of sickness, &
the saloon was fairly empty at meal-times but altho’ I was not exempt I managed to
put in an appearance every grub-time.
During Friday night, the escort with exception of the auxiliary cruiser Armadale
Castle, left us, so we considered we must be in tolerably safe water altho’ we had
been under the impression that they would be with us at least as far as Sierra Leone.
Part of the convoy also disappeared. Probably the roughness of the weather was
partly accountable for the escort leaving so soon as it seems that submarines can’t
do much in a sea like this.
Sunday 14th was a much better day & it was possible to sit on deck with pleasure. A
C. of E. service was held in the saloon, & I believe was well attended. Those who
didn’t go didn’t escape the collection, as it was taken all over the ship – quite a good
scheme which might be brought in in civilised life in the shape of a door to door
collection during church hours! A fine evening with bright phosphorescence on all the
broken water. (Why is it only on the broken water?) We saw a school of porpoises
very close: I never saw them actually leave the water before.
15 October 1917
It rained overnight but cleared up in the morning. The rest of the convoy has rejoined
us. There are now eight of us, counting the Armadale Castle. It seems one of our
life-boats was washed overboard on Saturday night. We had another concert this
afternoon: some of the songs contributed by the foc’sle were a bit thick but otherwise
the show was quite successful. The cabin was very warm at night, & some of the
bedclothes have had to come off. Had a couple of games of chess in the Smoke
room before turning in. The Plough is setting low on the horizon and a star (Venus)
which we ordinarily see low down is well up & very brilliant.
16 October 1917
Still warmer today: we have shifted our chairs to the shady side of the deck. Deck
games going strong in view of the competitions which are coming off. I had 5 games
of chess during the day which is rather more than is good. Our position is still rather
doubtful – whether we of K.A.R. are ordinary passengers or not - & consequently a
few small grievances. Our position on the sea is still more open to doubt &
conjecture as we have been zig-zagging about in a most erratic manner. Opinions
differ as to whether we are East or West of the Azores; in fact some think we are
nearer Newfoundland than the former. The captain I suppose knows; at least I hope
so, but he gives nothing away, to us anyway. Last night we stopped altogether for a
short time – steering-gear broke down I hear, & it seems that one of the I.W.T.
people lost his head and started tearing about: the riot act was accordingly read to
us today by the O.C. Ship.
17 October 1917
This has been a very bright day with just sufficient breeze to make things pleasant. I
have never seen the sea such a peculiar colour. Altho’ the sky is only a hazy blue
the water is a rich almost purple colour, especially round the ship where it appears
almost thick, & gives such an impression of solidity that you feel you could almost
walk across to the other ships. Except for a fleck of broken water at their bows he
convoy seem as motionless as Coleridge’s "painted ship". To finish up with we had a
glorious sunset: by the time we got up from dinner it was just at its last a long low
streak of vivid ruddy brown flecked with small dark clouds & silhouetted against it the
rest of the convoy. I have put in a fairly useful day - Swahili in the morning; rather a
solid book from the ship’s library: the first few pages of Tylor’s Anthropology, & anticholera inoculation.
18 October 1917
The cabins are just verging on the unbearable at nights: a few are sleeping on deck,
& I suppose we’ll soon all be doing so. The steward wakens us up at 7 a.m. for a
very welcome hot salt water bath: after that a cup of coffee & a stroll on deck before
breakfast. We parade every morning at our life-boat stations at 10.30 a.m. & the
captain goes the round. Up till today we have lived with our life belts – theoretically in
them but practically, as a rule, with them on our arms, and hung very handy above
our bunks at night. Now we are to wear them only at the forenoon parade so we
must be practically out of danger. We are to be in some port – Sierra Leone I
suppose - next week & will have a chance of sending off a mail so everybody is busy
writing.
19 October 1917
It is getting hotter every day. I can’t think what more clothes I can leave off, as I have
reached the limits of decency already. The men’s boxing match started this
afternoon: there were several good bouts & hard hitting. Venus is very close to the
moon tonight – unusually close I believe.
20 October 1917
Sky overcast most of the day; very muggy. Spent practically the whole day writing in
anticipation of Monday’s mail.
21 October 1917
Very hot last night in the cabin. Bedclothes quite unnecessary in spite of the electric
fan going all night. Today it has been muggy: continual perspiration. Ices came on
the menu for the first time, but iced drinks, iced butter etc. have been going strong
for several days. There must be an enormous refrigerating system on board. All the
fresh water is got by distillation so they must have way of ‘resalting’ the water into
the fairly good imitation of drinking water. Took a day off as far as Swahili etc. are
concerned. We saw the first flying fish today - rising often in small shoals from below
the bows. They travel a good distance over the water, touching the surface
occasionally – every 20 or 30 yards perhaps. This is probably to get up their speed
again by a sweep with the tail: the pectoral fins which are wide-spreading seem to
act as planes & don’t flap at all. I expected things like cuddings at least but they are
only about the size of small herring.
22 October 1917
A nice cool breeze this morning pronounced by experts to be a land one. Two birds
like crows flew over us for some time. Saw a number of what we took to be sharks.
Boxing in the forenoon: sports in the afternoon. In the whistling race I had the Hindu
lady for partner but failed to make her recognize Killarney.
Played the first game in the chess tournament & got beaten by a very poor player. I
thought I had a soft thing. So I have learnt for the second time, "Don’t underestimate
your opponent and don’t be in a hurry". Stayed on deck for a long time after dinner:
bright moonlight and an oily sea.
23 October 1917
We sighted the coast today at 12 noon and are now (3p.m.) getting well up to it. The
Armadale Castle has gone ahead and we are falling into single file behind her. We
have been zigzagging very cautiously all day and since last night have been carrying
our lifebelts.
Our first impressions of the new country have been good. The coastline to the right is
backed by a long line of steep hills, into which narrow valleys run up. The slopes are
covered with vegetation, very dark green in patches but I can’t make out whether it is
trees or not. Here and there on the slopes are cultivated fields. On the left end of the
ridge, clustering about the spurs are red roofed buildings & right down on the coast
palm trees & what may be either a mosque or a lighthouse. To the left or north the
coastline is marked by clumps of palms but the shore itself is too low to be visible
yet. We are told by those who have been here before that Freetown – it is Sierra
Leone we are approaching - lies at the foot of the hills, at their northern end, & it is
the outlying part of it that we see.
Later – we got through the boom shortly before 5 p.m. & came up the river with the
band playing, all standing to attention as we passed the flag-ship. We are lying about
a mile off shore, so thro’ our glasses, we have a good view of the town and the
densely wooded hills which rise steeply behind it. Instead of the dry sandy waste
which I had expected there is a luxuriant vegetation, & the landscape is brilliantly
green. Along the shore are groves of palms, and behind them the woods, right up to
the hill tops. The town consists for the most part of good solid European-looking
buildings which line the front, while red roofed bungalows straggle up the slopes and
look out from among the trees. On a smoothly green conical hill just behind the town
stands the barracks. As far as looks go at least, this part of the white man’s grave is
charming enough, & even after the sun had gone & the moon shone down thro’ a
faint haze it wasn’t easy to think of the place as anything but pleasantly situated seaside resort. As far as the naked eye could see, it might have been on the Clyde, but
the field glasses showed up figures and garments which would hardly have been
fashionable there. Funnily-shaped canoes with triangular sails, dotted about the bay,
also spoke of foreign manners and methods.
24 October 1917
Up on deck before the sun had properly risen and made a rough pencil sketch of the
town & hills. A faint haze lay over the town, a few wisps of mist about the hilltops and
perfect calm on the bay. A few canoes were moving about near the shore. After
breakfast a number of diving boys came out in the dugout canoes and dived all
forenoon for money. When a coin is thrown they flop over the side of their canoes &
go down after it. You can follow them down a long way by the white soles of their
feet. They seldom miss, especially if it is a silver coin which shows up better & goes
down slower than a penny. They were very good-humoured. I could imagine Jacky
Forbes & Co coming to bitter words if not blows under similar circumstances.
Shore leave was given only to the elite on account of smallpox said to be in
Freetown. A number of the grandees of the place came off tho’ & held high revelry in
the saloon until a late hour. Read an absorbing novel all day. The air was very close
in the evening & the saloon hardly bearable at dinner. We are in a continual state of
perspiration - never dry, shirts sticking to our backs & skin beginning to come out in
"prickly heat". It will probably be worse before it is better because the fresh water
which it was hoped to take in here is not forthcoming in sufficient quantity, so
washing water has had to be cut down. Evidently all our drinking water & much of the
washing water is carried in tanks, & not distilled from sea water. As regards the moist
atmosphere it is very uncomfortable but not nearly as bad as I had expected.
25 October 1917
We got away from Freetown at 3 p.m. The Armadale Castle stays here, & we are to
be escorted the rest of the way by the cruiser Kent. Pleasant breeze blowing outside
& we are glad to be moving once again.
26 October 1917
Still going ahead: pretty cool.
27 October 1917
Crossed the line today sometime: The Father Neptune affair didn’t come off. The
men had bolster fighting over a big sheetful of water. Very cool: and able to sleep at
night with a sheet over me.
"Saturday night at sea – Sweethearts & wives."
31 October 1917
The weather has been getting gradually cooler and we are thinking of getting back
into warmer clothes. I had expected much greater heat. There has been no
excitement of any sort, but still time slips past. We expect to be in Cape Town in a
week or less. The Marconi news this week has been very bad – the Italian debacle
and some plot to provoke civil war in France: the absence of details makes things
worse.
November 1917
4 November 1917
Sea a good bit rougher. Vessel pitching a bit. Busy writing all day. We saw two small
whales today, & a number of albatross have been hanging about for a day or two.
Had rather a narrow escape from collision tonight: a strange vessel passing thro’ the
convoy, but thanks to the Kent’s search lights there was no mishap.
6 November 1917
Wakened this morning to find ourselves lying below Table Mountain & moving slowly
in to the quay. By the time I was on deck we were alongside. It was a perfect
morning, cloudless and yet with a cold breeze. The visibility was very high – seems
almost always to be - & every stone on the Mountain stood out with perfect
clearness. The Mountain really is part of a high range which forms the coast line
from Cape Town for considerable distance to the South. It is composed as far as I
can make out from a motor char-a-banc of red sandstone beds overlying a whitey
granite, with which are associated igneous rocks. Anyway that part of the range
which faces Table Bay that is to say Table Mountain, The Devils Peak and the Lions'
Head have very steep in fact in most places absolutely precipitous upper faces of
stratified rock & sweep downwards in long steep slopes of debris, carrying thick fir
woods in parts & elsewhere presenting a parched appearance. Cape Town itself
doesn’t appear to the greatest advantage as seen from the harbour. The best part of
the town is hidden from view in the ‘Kloof’, and what is seen is not only cheap &
temporary looking but is dwarfed by the ;mass of the mountain which so
overshadows it. As soon as we were allowed ashore – 10 a.m. there was a rush for
the banks, but first of all I sent off a cable home. I ran across Ralph McKay in one of
the streets so we went round together. In the forenoon we visited the Houses of
Parliament - not very imposing & brickbuilt, but with strange flowers blooming round
about them. We crossed over to the Botanic Gardens which are alongside &
wandered thro’ them trying to pick up the names of some of the trees & shrubs but
without much success. Then having got hold of the first newspaper since leaving
England – but only a morning one – we sought out a café & tried to get at what had
been happening, especially on the Italian Front. We lunched in a restaurant, very
abundantly and cheaply: food seems to be plentiful here: in fact one shopkeeper told
us that they were living in a bed of roses, but no doubt in the distant future they too
would feel the pinch. Imported goods – especially I notice boots – are very dear. In
the afternoon we went by char-a-banc to Hout Bay, and back by a circular route
round the Mountain. For the fist eight miles or so, the road runs along the coast,
where it is formed by the flat-topped hills. These are composed of the red sandstone
beds, which are cut into by ravines & gullies & carved into outlying pinacles & pulpits.
The slopes to the sea are very steep & the road runs thro’ a series of cuttings in the
debris & sometimes thro’ the solid granite which forms the actual coast line on which
the surf breaks. The granite contains big felspar xals & is overlain by debris from the
higher ground, often containing partially decomposed constituents of the granite, & if
it hardened in this condition it might be rather a difficult rock to spot. It would I think
be rather like a granitey rock I got in the burn bed at Loth & Culgower. And again, the
sandstone debris might, altho’ without any traces of bedding be similar in formation
to the breccia beds along the coast of Sutherland. The so-called stacks there might
be large chunks which fell forward off the cliff face. However I didn’t have a chance
to look at things closely. The braes carry an absolutely new flora - all the plants have
some apparent method of conserving their water supply – either by waxy leaves,
linear leaves, swollen leaves or some other way, and many of them with very bright
flowers. We turned in over a col and ran down thro’ wooded lanes into the valley
which terminates in Hout Bay. The sands there are extremely white & consist of
shelly material & grains of quartz from the granite I suppose. In one corner of the bay
the sand has been blown up across the back of a headland. We stopped for an hour
here & had tea at the hotel & a stroll on the sands. The shells are much the same as
we have – mussels, limpets etc. but are larger as a rule & proportionally stronger.
The way home ran up the valley, over a col & then along the back of Table Mountain.
Towards the north the ground is very flat and not much above sea level I should
think. It is covered with pine woods which sweep down from the mountain, and with
plantations. I should think the land here is only recently formed, by silting up a
passage between the Cape Peninsula and the mainland. The re-entry of Cape Town
is uninteresting, thro’ what is evidently one of the poorer parts, We had dinner at a
cheap restaurant, and tried a Picture House afterwards but came out at halftime &
returned to the ship pleasantly tired.
7 November 1917
Went up town with Ralph and visited the Museum to see the African animals. One of
the most interesting things was the Bushman paintings on stone – exactly similar to
those of palaeolithic man in the caves of the Pyrenees. The sun very hot, so I
thought it advisable to wear my sunhelmet, altho’ many of them are still wearing the
glengarries. In the afternoon we took the train to Uinzenberg, a small bathing place
at the N.E. end of the peninsula. The water is shallow for a good way out, and
consequently the bathing is of the surf variety & surf boards were being used by a
good few of the bathers. The wind was very cold so I didn’t go in, altho’ the water is
said to be from 10 to 15 degrees warmer than is Table Bay. One gratifying feature
about these parts is that the military are treated to most things gratis, e.g. docktrains,
chairs on the sands, towels etc. but if you go to buy anything you usually pay thro’
the nasal organ. We had tea at the hotel & then back to town. I had dinner on the
Norman. They are very cramped there & the ventilation of the cabins is so bad that
most of them have been sleeping on deck all the time. The only incident of interest
during the meal was that one of my false teeth broke off the plate, and I had to
exercise some ingenuity to transfer it from my mouth to my pocket. I’ll need to get it
sorted at Durban.
8 November 1917
I spent the forenoon wandering round the shops. I bought the Daffodil Fields &
Rupert Brooke and may get some of Service’s in Durban. Went out after lunch to the
Groote Schnar, Rhodes’s house, which lies at the back of the mountain. Botha lives
in it now, but is away at Pretoria. The house is built on the Old Dutch type. The
woodwork is splendid, and the furniture I suppose unique. Much of it is old Dutch
inlaid with mother of pearl & ivory. The bathroom is lined with marble and the bath
made from solid lump of granite weighing 3 tons. Rhodes’ bedroom looks out on a
terraced garden behind the house, and up over thick pine woods to the towering
heights of the Mountain. The smell of pine came strongly in thro’ the open window;
the reality of Rhodes as a man and not a mere name was borne in upon me at the
same time. His mark is over all the house, far more so than Botha’s whose little room
we saw. I could have spent any length of time in his library. He had all the old
classics done in red leather and typed. I remember reading that he was so much
taken with Gibbon’s Decline and Fall that he collected all the original authorities used
by Gibbon. He could not possibly have read them all – they cost him about £6,000.
We had a look at the open air zoo which is nearby. The monument which commands
a fine view seemed too far off so we came back to town for tea.
Dinner on board.
ON TO EAST AFRICA
9 November 1917
Not allowed ashore today. We went out into the roads at noon and left about 5
o’clock. I tried a couple of snaps of Table mountain. The scenery very fine: the
weathering of the sandstone beds very like that in the Grand Canyon as per
illustrations. The junction of the granite & sandstone could be clearly seen in a
number of places. The latter appeared to be lying on a practically plane base, altho’
the granite rose a bit higher in the Lions head. Miss Mayadas – the "Hindu Lady" told me last night she would be glad to get away from Cape Town ‘where her colour
had prevented her being served’. My theories rather crumpled up at that as she is as
well educated as any of us, and there is no hint of degeneracy about her either.
10 November 1917
Out of sight of land all day: running broadside on to swell & rolling a good deal.
Stayed in bed a good part of the day with a cold.
11 November 1917
Dr. Wilson introduced me to McKenzie, a Caithnessian & one of the big banking men
of S.A. He was born in Wick but hadn’t been there for about 40 years so we didn’t
have much to speak about there. I got some information about S.A. from him. In the
first place a great many of the Dutch, egged on by disappointed politicians are
disloyal, & there is nothing they want more than to see the British cleared out. They
haven’t fought for us in anything like the numbers they should have done. This
antagonism is preventing Britishers from immigrating, which is just what these Dutch
want. The language question is acute. Botha he says is sincere: not well educated
but a charming personality and makes a fine combination with Smuts who had a
brilliant university career: but who is a politician and not troubled with too many
scruples. It is probably largely owing to his influence at home that the Dutch have got
the upper hand in German East where according to all accounts they are doing
themselves handsome and us the opposite.
There is a good deal of intermarriage in Cape Town between white artisan class &
the blacks, as these save servants while the white woman wants a more leisured
position. In Durban the types are pure – European, Indian & Zulu. One of the
saddest features he says is the growing predominance of the Jews who are
capturing the trade of the country especially in the smaller towns. In spite of many
admirable qualities – e.g. family life, and liberal spending they are not our people &
in a time like the present are benefiting by our extremities. "South Africa is a splendid
country if it weren’t for the people." His own ambition is to lay his bones on his own
farm where he has had so much pleasure.
The reason for the higher temperature at Muezenberg than in Table Bay is the
Mozambique Current.
13 November 1917
Yesterday was dull & hazy. We sighted Durban lights about 9 p.m. and by 10.30
were lying just off the town. It was strange to see the place so brilliantly lit up and be
able to trace the streets by means of the lamps. By the time I was up this morning
we were moving in. After an early breakfast the work of unloading began. There was
a good deal of confusion owing to contradictory orders. Meanwhile we had a chance
of looking about us. The harbour, which is evidently an estuary, has accommodation
for a large number of vessels but there aren’t sufficient wharves at least for the
present times. It is surrounded by low wooded hills, except in the North where they
recede & the flats on which the main part of the town is built intervene on that side.
After a few hours waiting we got our kit off, tipped the stewards & set off for Congella
Camp which lies on the flats further up the harbour. Our kit went by rail and we got
on a tram. At the dock gate we were met by several prancing ricksha men in full war
dress especially as far as their heads were concerned but we weren’t tempted. We
were allocated to tents- three in each- on our arrival at Camp, had lunch & got our kit
arranged, expecting to be in Durban for a week or two at the least. There are some
officers who have been here for six weeks waiting for a boat. I spent the remainder
of the day in camp & turned in early – Iago & Duguid sharing the tent.
14 November 1917
Spent the forenoon in town with Carter of the W.A.F.F.s buying a few articles of kit.
Prices on the whole are reasonable and compare well with Britain, altho’ the stock of
imported goods is running low. In the afternoon we took the tram round the Berea or
residential part of the town, which lies on a low hill behind the town. It is composed
mainly of pretty little bungalows & some larger houses with grounds and wellkept
gardens. Durban being largely a health resort – the Brighton of S.A. - rents are high
and houses very dear. I don’t like the place as well as Cape Town altho’ of course I
only had a few days in each place. In Cape Town the buildings are better and more
compactly built together. The streets are a bit narrower perhaps but the surroundings
are imposing. From Durban there is no high ground to be seen. The mountains
which one never loses sight of in Cape Town are altogether wanting, The most
outlandish feature of the place is certainly the ricksha men – Zulus of fine physique,
with as a rule elaborate head-dresses of horns, porcupine quills or feathers:
sometimes a Homburg rather spoils the effect but as a rule they stick to their own
style. They can run well & for a long time, and their charges aren’t too exorbitant.
There is less intermingling of races here than in Cape Town owing to the fact, if Mr.
McKenzie is correct that the poor white artisans there intermarry pretty freely with the
blacks. Probably there are fewer of that class in Durban as it is not such an industrial
place as Cape Town. The whites are mainly British, many of them Scotch. There is
intense feeling against the Dutch & Indians. Two of the lady passengers of
Llanstephan had the greatest difficulty in getting accommodation for their Indian
nurses or even getting them off the boat at all. Miss Mayadas was in the same
position: it can’t be expected to reconcile Indians by this treatment. It isn’t treating
them as brother, altho’ there must be some justice behind it – protection of the white
from Indians competition.
When we got back to camp we found that we were under orders to embark tomorrow
for East Africa. Much quicker move than we had dreamt of. Spent the rest of the
evening writing home.
15 November 1917
Got our kits packed immediately after breakfast and spent the forenoon trying to rush
a job thro’ the dentist’s hands- the result of the Norman episode. Was lucky to get it
finished by 1 p.m. Sent off my p.c.s on my way to the boat which we had to get onto
by 1.30 – the Ingoma. There are about a dozen of the Hertford crowd on board
including Brown Anderson & Goodfellow. Carter (W.A.F.F.s) and Ralph are going
with her too. It was 5 p,m, before we got away from the quay & over the bar which
was in a great state of commotion, a high wind blowing & all the sky to the west
black & nasty looking. We dropped the pilot outside and stood out to sea with a
heavy swell to which we had to run broadside. However the boat altho’ it is rather
small is a good sailor. We have good accommodation – 4 bunk cabin on deck, a fairsized saloon & lounge.
16 November 1917
Low sandy coastline visible at breakfast time but we soon lost sight of it so think we
must be crossing Delagoa Bay. Wind down today a bit but some heavy rain storms
passed & at night it set into a regular downpour with heavy thunder and vivid blue
lightning. Officer of the watch 8-12 midnight.
18 November 1917
The last two days we have been more or less hugging the coast, which is low &
sandy , rising into small sandhills, with low bush clad ridges behind. No signs at all of
human habitations except for a solitary lighthouse we passed yesterday. We have
had several very heavy showers of rain. We were expecting to be at Beira tonight but
there was no sign of it when darkness fell, in fact there was no land visible at all.
Today the atmosphere has been very moist and warm.
19 November 1917
Soon after I wakened this morning the boat stopped. I went on deck but could see no
land, but the pilot signal was at the mast-head. I went back & dressed & by the time I
was up again the pilot was aboard. Probably I hadn’t looked carefully enough for
land but we were certainly a good long way out when we stopped – 12 miles I heard
but that is probably too much. The water is very dirty even at this distance out. The
shallows on the map are probably due to the sediment from the Zambesi etc. being
carried into this corner by the Aghulas Current. The channel into the roads is marked
by buoys. The coastline gradually reveals itself: it is very low indeed & shows spits
and banks of sand everywhere. Beira looks a miserable lonely place from the sea –
just a few red roofs among trees, barely raised above sea-level. By the time
breakfast was over we were anchored a couple of hundred yards from the town
which is protected by a concrete sea-wall – protected more probably from extra high
tides & tidal waves rather than from rough seas. We were given permission to go
ashore and be back by sunset, so we weren’t long in getting over the side, into a
motor boat which was going in. The town is not prepossessing. It is built almost
entirely of corrugated iron sometimes painted usually not. The streets are ankle-deep
in sand, with packed sand beneath. Along them run narrow tram-lines, branching off
every short distance into narrow lanes or up to private houses. The favourite method
of getting about is on trollies pushed along these rails by a couple of boys. It is
apparently exactly the same system as is used in Mombasa. The footpaths are made
of concrete so there is evidently no workable stone available, the few solid buildings
there are being of the same stuff. Along the streets are planted flamboyant acacias,
now in full bloom: so are some purple trailing plants on many house fronts. The town
is built in a very haphazard way, so that it is impossible to say which is the centre.
The population is mainly black, but the bulk of the whites are British, so that most
signs notices etc. are in English. There is at least one decent hotel – the Savoy,
where we had lunch for 4/-, and a siesta in the afternoon. We strolled across the golf
course held to be the best in E. Africa: it is as flat as a pancake with artistically
arranged bunkers: very well kept tho’ especially considering the ravages of the land
crabs which burrow into it & into whose holes most lost balls go. We bought a few
things. Prices are pretty high, but it is rather surprising what a variety of things you
can get provided you pay for them. Most of the shops are of general store type and
keep nearly every line of goods. Haircut 2/- (didn’t have one) Large Angiers
Emulsion 5/-, p.p.c.s 1 1/2d, medium sized bottle brilliantine 3/- Beira news 3d etc.
Speaking to a Scotch assistant in one of the store. Living here costs about £11-12
everything found per month. Wages £25-30. The only thing to waste money on is the
cafés – in other words ‘drink’. The climate isn’t too unhealthy: the winter months
brace you up again. Mosquitoes evidently give some trouble as some of the houses
are built mosquito-proof.
20 November 1917
Stayed on board and wrote letters as the mail is to go tonight. Reading "The
Virginians" the first by Thackeray I have tried.
21 November 1917
Started teaching Anderson & Goodfellow chess, & being taught bridge in return. We
sent ashore after lunch with Brown. It rained most of the afternoon: played a
foursome at billiards, tea at the Savoy and back in time for dinner.
22 November 1917
Four hundred German askari prisoners and three hundred K.A.R. came aboard this
morning. They have come down from Nyasaland, by Chinde and are for up the coast
now, the prisoners I understand to be sent back to their villages round about Dar-esSalaam. The K.A.R. men seem quite pleased with themselves. They remind me of
ourselves in the early part of the war, they are so happy, jabbering away and drilling
each other. They are keen enough.
28 November 1917
We left Beira on Friday morning last and haven’t seen land until this morning when
we passed Pemba on the port side. We will be in Kilindini this afternoon. The run up
hasn’t been very exciting. The weather has been splendid & very hot: the nights
moonlit & balmy. Flying fish very abundant the last few days. I think now that they do
give a bit flutter with their pectoral fins on first leaving the water. There are a good lot
of porpoises too. We have had some very fine sunsets. I haven’t seen any dawns.
On Monday we had wireless news of great British victory in France & we are eagerly
waiting for details at Mombasa. We have had a native interpreter up on deck for an
hour at nights & are making some progress with Swahili.
Later. Got into Kilindini at 1 p.m. The entrance is narrow, and the harbour itself not
very wide, but long & will accommodate any number of vessels. There isn’t much
wharfage. We were allowed ashore till 10 p.m. & got in in a rowing boat. Kilindini isn’t
much of a place. The station is at the top of the hill above the docks, Mombasa
station further up being the terminus. We walked up to the top and took a ghari, or
trolley to Mombasa. The road is lined with palms acacias and so on, cocoa-nuts
hanging in clusters & plenty other kinds of fruit that we don’t know. Wen we came to
pay the boys we found they wouldn’t take our English money so we had to get it
changed into rupees. We went straight to the Standard bank & opened accounts,
with overdraught of £5 which was very welcome to all of us, many of them being
absolutely on the rocks. The Club stands on the sea front overlooking Mombasa
harbour. It is a big airy place with wide verandahs, 3 billiard tables and liquid
refreshment which was very welcome. On the right, looking towards the harbour is
Jesus fort, now used as the prison: can’t get in without a permit which we didn’t
have. It seems in good repair. The bazaar, if we got hold of the right place, is a long
twisted narrow street which runs away into a maze of narrower and still less
interesting alleys. The shops are small and musty, and run by Goanese mainly.
There were batches of pretty little children in harem skirts, with ear and nose
ornaments - Arabs perhaps but they were very delicate looking. The mosque in
Vasco Da Gama street is an unshapely affair from the outside whatever it may be
from the inside. There are few or no horses in Mombasa. All traction is by blacks they haul the carts loaded with goods up the brae from Kilindini, a few inches at a
time, the man at the pole chanting encouragement.
We got back to the ship for dinner
29 November 1917
We came ashore on a big lighter, with all our baggage: the sun was so hot we were
glad to get into the shade of the gunwale. Reporting at the Post Commandant’s
office we found out that the train was to leave at 2p.m. If we hadn’t asked we
wouldn’t have known: they are very casual here. We had lunch at the Manor house
and then proceeded to the train. The first class carriages have a worn out
appearance: they accommodate four sleepers, - two on the seats & two up above.
The windows can all be opened, and may be shut either by means of glass or
wooden lattice. Iago, Duguid, Brown and I shared a compartment. We got away by
3p.m. As soon as we crossed the bridge between the island & the mainland the train
started to climb through low hills well wooded with plantations & shambas here and
there, and occasional native huts and small villages. Banana trees are very
abundant, and cocoa-nut palms. The natives stood watching the train and showed
the same delight in waving to perfect strangers as can be seen along the railway at
home. I saw one carrying an umbrella, closed, but instead of having it in his hand he
had it balanced across his head. We had dinner at 5.30 Samburn and made a very
good meal of it for two rupees. A few stations before that we had bought pine-apples
and bananas at Mazeras at what appeared to be us cheap prices, but when Duguid
came to calculate he came to the conclusion that we were badly swicked. The
carriage turned in early, Iago & I playing a couple of games of chess first. I sat by the
window for a while: there was a brilliant moon: I wanted to see the Taru desert but
didn’t, at least as far as I know. The bush seemed to be getting thinner when I turned
in. We had heard that the temperature falls very much during this night journey so I
came armed with a greatcoat, but owing to our late start we hadn’t risen to a
sufficient altitude so that I perspired all night while the rest were just nice.
30 November 1917
Wakened at 5 a.m. but as the bush was very thick on both sides of the line and
nothing could be seen I lay down again for an hour. At 6 I rose and shaved with that
virtuous feeling one has in doing so while others are still asleep. The train reached
Mackindu at 8.30 where we had breakfast which we were very ready for. By this time
we had seen only a few buck. Immediately after leaving we ran the game country
and saw zebra in fair numbers, buffaloes of some sort and later on, on the plains
Thomson’s gazelles, hartebeests, impala, baboons etc. Perhaps we would have
seen more if we had passed earlier in the day, but I think we never saw more than a
hundred & fifty head of game at any one time. At any rate they didn’t run into
thousands as one reads, whatever they may have done at one time. They aren’t
much afraid of the train, altho’ as a rule they stand away at a respectable distance.
There is often hardly a patch of cover on the plains, & it must be very difficult to
approach for a shot. Still the plains aren’t boundless: there are hills shutting them in
all round, or rather shutting in the view: the ranges of hills not being continuous, but
isolated, & the plains sweep round their flanks. In all this wide country there are few
signs of human habitations, & what there are, are of back humanity. I don’t think the
game reserve runs north of the line at all, but perhaps its proximity – most of the
game we saw was north of the line – accounts for the absence of farms, partly. A few
blacks were at work here & there on the line, armed with a hammer and a string of
beads. The line is a single one, with a loop at the stations, the same as the Highland.
The stations are not imposing but the food at the refreshment rooms is good, and
they don’t seem to want take advantage of the fact that you are dependent on them.
They are set down in the country seemingly haphazard as there are no houses in
sight as a rule, nor roads leading up to them. We got into Nairobi at 5.30 p.m. and
found nobody to meet us. We hadn’t been expected for several hours! Having
impressed H.Q. by phone with the fact that we had really come they sent down an
officer to direct us to the Norfolk Hotel where we were put up at 5 rupees a day. Our
kit came up shortly afterwards. After dinner the Scotch element was invited to the St.
Andrews day celebrations in Mr. Espies’ house. All the Scotch males – or most of
them – in the place were there. It seems that most of the heads of departments are
Scotch. They were all very free and easy, and gave us a very good welcome. As the
evening went on things got freer and easier. I got back to the hotel at 1.30.
December 1917
1 December 1917
Reported to Commandant at 10 a.m. & again at 2 p.m. Brown, Anderson,
Goodfellow, McBean, Straiton, Lee & Horne & myself allocated to 5/4 K.A.R. at
M’bagathi. Duguid, Iago, Neish, Simpson, Cook & Stansfield to 4th Depot, Bombo.
Ralph to 3/6th M’bagathi. We spent most of the evening at Burgess’s house –
Anderson’s friend – fixing up personal boys, and getting a few tips on how to deal
with them. I interviewed them in our room later on and came to a complete
misunderstanding with them, We didn’t know that they were rationed by the Q.M. so
we said they wd. have to buy their own posho. That was the bone of contention. My
Swahili came in useful but leaves a great deal to be understood.
2 December 1917
My boy turned up in good time, and the other two later on. By this time we knew our
mistake, so things were smoothed over at least for the time being, but my boy struck
just before leaving for camp on an obscure question of boots. I let him go, expecting
& hoping that he would come back. We embarked on a buggy – 5 of us at 10.30 a.m.
for M’bagathi. After 1/4 hour we had to haul aside & the boys went back to exchange
one of the ‘horses’. They returned with a donkey 1/2 the size of the remaining horse,
but we got along after that at a good pace. Any amount of game along the road as
we are in the game reserve now, and the animals know it. After negotiating a number
of miraculous bridges & ‘fords’ we arrived at the camp, about 7 miles out, and
reported to the C.O. It was evening before our kit turned up, it having been brought
out on a prodigiously slow oxen waggon. By this time I had found my boy at an
Indian shop beside the camp. No word of boots now: I soon had him putting my
things in order.
3 December 1917
Wakened very early and looked out. Perfect night. Restless till 6 a.m. which I always
am when something unusual is on the cards. Aweru was up early too, and working at
my things before reveille. He brought me a cup of tea then. Dressed and on parade
by 7 a.m. Fortunately it was kit inspection, so that my Swahili wasn’t very much
tested. Breakfast 8 – 9, and a good appetite. Good porridge and fresh milk,
sausages, eggs, and fruit. Parade again at 9 a.m. making up deficiencies in kit: then
an hour’s squad drill. The men have 3 or 4 months service on the average and are
very smart considering: in fact they could easily beat our finished recruits at Ripon,
but they don’t have such a variety of training. From 12 – 1 there is a Swahili class in
the captain’s ‘banda’, but it will probably stop after tomorrow when their exam.
comes off. At 2 o’clock a tribal return had to be made out and the company was
fallen in by tribes – 13 in all. As far as I could make out there was very little
conformity to type within each tribe: tribal distinctions apparently consist in
artificialities mainly, e.g. pulling out the lower incisors, scars etc.
Played a game of football after tea, and felt nearly dead beat after it.
4 December 1917
Blank
5 December 1917
Sun very hot both days, and the back of my knees were swollen and red. The
battalion was on parade for a sweating hour; hard work keeping the ascaris to it but
they worked very well considering. Ralph came over last night from the 3/6th. W ho
are in camp not far from here.
6 December 1917
On fatigue all day. The village containing the regimental bibis has to be shifted to the
other side of the camp, for sanitary reasons. We spent the forenoon clearing the
bush, and the afternoon in demolishing the present huts & carrying the material
across to the new site. Meanwhile the bibis, in all their coloured finery have been
sitting round with their goods and chattels. Some of them are well enough looking in
a barbarous way, and they are all well set up. They haven’t any respect for white
men, I am told! I came across a mymecophilous mimosa tree near their huts. The
ants live in large chestnut-like outgrowths which seem to be formed from a couple of
stout thorns. These thorns project from the outgrowths, and at their base is the
aperture thro’ which the ants come in and out. Another larger tree of the same sort
was growing close by, on which there were no outgrowths, altho’ thorns and ants
were both present.
Carried on with the bibis village in the forenoon. Most of them had to sleep al fresco
last night, or in temporary erections. Some of them were cooking rice patties, which
looked palatable enough but I wasn’t much taken with the condition of their cooking
utensils. The ascaris work well enough but take their own time & it needs an N.C.O.
among them with a cane to make them get a move on. In the afternoon ‘A’, ‘C’, & ‘D’
coys. made an attack. It wasn’t a very great success, mainly because the objective
was too small for the frontage occupied & because it wasn’t divided between the
coys. or our O.C. Coy. Omitted to tell us. In a case like this w[h]ere the objective
can’t be seen from the posn. of deployment, platoon commanders should surely be
taken forward & showed their objective or if there isn’t time for that the first
opportunity shd. be taken to point it out during the advance. The result was we
overlapped badly with the coys. on our right.
15 December 1917
I haven’t had time or inclination to sit down to write up my diary this week. In fact I
haven’t made up my mind yet whether to write it up daily or a few days at a time.
This week has been a very busy one. The C.O. has been away & the adjutant has
been keeping strictly to the programme of work. For instance, last night we had two
hours of night work reconnoitring a piece of ground: we got finished at 9 p.m. and
had to have the report in by 7 a.m. this morning. It was a fairly easy piece of ground
except for the river crossing which was rather difficult to find, even with the help of
matches. Anderson & Paton finished their reconnaissance with hurricane lamps. On
Wednesday afternoon the battalion did an attack over the same piece of country. It
wasn’t too bad, but there was a good deal of language emanating from the O.C. Coy.
So far I haven’t impressed him at all favourably. We had a difference of opinion over
an outpost position which I had to take up. I went to him afterwards & apologized for
my sulkiness while under correction, but I still hold to my own opinion. Besides that
we have had another kit inspection, and he made things generally unpleasant for us
all. I think my platoon is improving on handling of arms and I am getting them to put
a little more go into the bayonet work. I wish there was a Swahili word for ‘guts’ or if
there is that I knew it. However I’d want to know the Achole for it as well, & several
others. I find that about 20 of my platoon don’t understand Swahili and can’t have
even the slightest idea of what I am talking about.
22 December 1917
Another big hiatus. The main thing this week from a personal point of view is that I
am on draft for G.E.A.& expect to go down in a few days. I am quite glad to be going
altho’ I am rather dubious about my ability to stand it long. I expect that I’ll soon have
a ‘liver like a crocodile’ and my heart has been troubling me for a week or so. No
doubt this is due partly at least to the high altitude & rash football. However that
doesn’t worry me as it would have once. I will be very sorry if I have come out here
only to go home again, but I think I will be equal to whatever comes.
I am having a quiet day today, beginning with breakfast in bed, and don’t intend to go
far from the tent all day. Sunday is still Sunday here, even tho’ there is no service.
There is no artificially superinduced atmosphere to make you "feel good’ and if you
arrive there it is by your own efforts.
This week has been a busy one, but I had one day off, as orderly officer so managed
to get a few letters written. I have had none myself yet, but it would only have been
by a stroke of luck if I had because Oct 17th. Is the latest date for which letters have
arrived so far. I went to the post office in Nairobi yesterday & found the mail which
arrived a fortnight ago still in the process of being sorted, & still knee deep on the
floor. Things seemed to be in chaos & if I don’t get letters before going south I don’t
expect to see any for months. I am existing now on the photos I brought with me &
the three letters I got at Plymouth, and not doing so badly. I feel them at home closer
now that ever I did when I was away before.
I spent Friday and yesterday in Nairobi. We walked in just after breakfast on Friday,
before the sun was too hot. The road runs for the most part along the slope of the
plateau which stretches to N. & W. of the camp. I suppose this is to keep it up out of
the swampy ground in the wet season. It is very rough anyway & has a decided list
to the south. A new road is being made by the convicts just now. These convicts are
better treated than ours at home. They can speak as much as they like and are well
fed. We approached the town by the "Hill road", thro’ the 3rd. K.A.R. depot: called at
the Paymaster’s and K.A.R. H.Q. for letters, with the results aforementioned. I went
& saw John Munro, & hunted the hospital for McLelland of the 1/5th. Sea. but find he
has gone. I spent the rest of the daylight buying odds and ends, and seeing the
dentist. We stayed at the New Stanley Hotel, a roomy place, with wide staircases &
lobbies, whitewashed walls, and plenty of basket chairs. They charge 7.50 ruppees
per day, inclusive. We sat on the verandah upstairs most of the afternoon – McBean
& I. He is a very likeable chap. He reminds me in many ways of Vane but is free-er
with his confidences which isn’t a good point. He is a Celt thro’ & thro’ & absolutely
different from the dour Scotchman. I felt so kindly towards him this morning that I
gave him Service’s Poems which I know he likes. He left before breakfast today for
Beira with a draft. It is a new experience for me to be giving. In the evening I took a
ricksha up to the Club, up on the hill, to meet John Munro. The sun had just set and
the trees on the top of the hill were silhouetted against the orange red of the sunset,
one bright star shone above and the air was still balmy, and full of the whistle of
frogs along the road side. Beifer came along with his friend in a little while, & we
walked out to Donnie Rose’s house, where we had dinner, pipe tunes on the
gramophone and a talk about home. Rose has been out here for 3 1/2 years now.
He is in the P.W.D. here, and has had rather a bad time with fever, some months
ago. He says he got it here, but I think he moves about the country a bit. They seem
to have had rather a bad time during the plague outbreak, about a year ago. Several
Europeans died and a couple of hundred or so blacks. In several cases, a body lay
in the street for several hours which surely doesn’t reflect much credit on the
department responsible. The plague of course is spread by fleas on rats so that
there is war to the knife against the latter. The sanitary system in Nairobi is bad, or
rather it hardly exists. There are no water-closets. The bucket system seems to be
the only one. The native bazaar where the Indian ‘dukas’ are is especially bad. The
refuse pits in the middle of each back-court are emptied daily but never ‘cleaned’ out.
Disease is hardly preventable. There are no closed in sewage pipes. Another
problem, & quite as pressing a one, is that relating to the natives who are very
cheeky often. The difficulty is that the civil authorities always seem inclined to take
the word of a native before that of a white man, & the boys naturally take advantage
of the fact. A boy lately got 7 years for murdering his white mistress: for murdering a
black woman it would have been a capital sentence – witness the Indians sentenced
now at Mombasa for murdering one of their own kind. The only possible way seems
to be to assert the supremacy of the white man. Any softness is taken as weakness
& even here in the camp, if you give them an inch they take a yard. My own boy,
Maweru, seems a decent enough specimen. Of course, he is young but altho’ I have
had my suspicions once or twice, I believe he is honest. I sent him into Nairobi with
30 rupees shortly after I got him and he came back all right. However I was under
the impression that I took a couple of thick semmets out with me, & finding that there
is only one in my boxes now I examined Maweru’s underflannel & found it the exact
duplicate of my own except that it hasn’t my name on it. He claims to have bought it
himself, so I must take his word for it as I may be mistaken myself. He has gone
home today on leave until Thursday as he had a letter last night saying his father is
dead. I wonder if he will turn up, as I have promised to reduce his wages by 2 rupees
after the end of this month. Meanwhile I have got a big strapping Kikuyu to look after
me.
We don’t have mess on Saturday or Sunday now, so go into supper in neglige.
24 December 1917
I went on parade today altho’ nominally
on draft leave. The draft seems to have
been indefinitely postponed. There was
nothing much doing. In the afternoon we
did a small advance guard scheme along
the river bed from the Cattle Boma to the
camp. There is a white safari party living
at the Boma just now, in a tumble-down
banda which must be alive with vermin.
On our way there, just across the river,
we met three Masai, the first authentic
specimens I have seen. They were very
tall, splendidly built, with fine features.
Their skin was light chocolate brown, the
hair smeared with red earth, & each
carried a few spears. It is a pity they
aren’t amenable to discipline. As it is,
they are simply pampered parasites.
This is Christmas Eve. We have just had
dinner – the same as usual. I am in my
tent now and am going to turn in very
soon, as we are going our shooting early
in the morning.
John Bruce Cairnie in Africa
It is bright moonlight outside: the moon is about 3/4 full. There is very little of the
Christmas atmosphere about. Somebody is thumping suitable hymns on the piano. I
shall hang up my stocking as usual, but don’t hope for anything. This is my fourth
Xmas in the Army. The first was at No. 21 with Mac in bed with influenza, the next at
Bronfay farm with the Duke of Wellingtons, the third at home, and now this one here.
26 December 1917
Yesterday morning Anderson & I went out at 5.15 a.m. with a couple of boys, to have
a shot. We were rather later than we intended, so the sun was up before we got
beyond the 3 mile limit. We came upon some Tommies but they kept out of range:
cover is very scarce. At last I got a big bush between myself & one & got to within
about 200’. I crawled up & tried to make myself comfortable but could get no rest for
my right elbow. He was standing side on evidently suspicious so I decided to fire
altho’ my sight was heaving badly. Of course I missed & the intended victim, after
waiting for a few seconds, took to his heels. Anderson knocked one over later on, &
then we made our way back to camp as we couldn’t have carried any more had we
hit them. We got back in nice time for breakfast with a healthy appetite.
I spent the rest of the day writing & sleeping.
We had our Christmas dinner in the middle of the day – hors d’oeuvre, soup, lobster
mayonnaise, lamb cutlets, roast turkey , asparagus, plum pudding mince cakes, &
coffee. I wrote Daisy today but found it difficult. Read a few pages of the Origin of
species, which I find hard reading: turned in early. We hadn’t much sleep last night
(Christmas eve) because of the ‘carols’ with the C.O. at their head, coming round
and playing havoc with the tents. I managed to save mine by counterattacking
immediately with a bucket of water.
I didn’t get up till about eight today & after breakfast I took my geological hammer
revolver, magnifying glass & the Golden Treasury & spent a very pleasant forenoon
on the side of the burn beyond the Bibi’s village. We had a sharp shower of rain in
the evening but only sufficient to wet the surface of the ground. Had a smoking
concert in the mess at night with the white N.C.O.s as guests. There isn’t the same
line drawn here between N.C.O.s & officers; the distinction is rather between white
men and black. Quite a good concert, the sergeants providing practically all the
talent.
27 December 1917
Had bush work in the afternoon – company affair. Wilson & Goodfellow at
loggerheads. In the evening I had my first letters from home – 2 from Mother 1 from
Bessie & one from Crossgates. I don’t think home ever seemed so sweet and dear to
me as now. I don’t know why. I believe half my ‘melancholy’ is home sickness – in a
man of twenty eight. Any way it is fine to see a letter from home & hear the news
altho’ it is a couple of months old.
28 December 1917
The draft has been warned again, for Sunday first. I hope it goes. Applied for leave
immediately & got it till tomorrow night, so stayed in, in the afternoon packing.
Very difficult job deciding what to take & what not. It depends on whether we are to
do garrison work or trek. The rains are coming on too, so there won’t likely be much
movement. Maweru hasn’t come back from burying his father so I have taken on
Harangi, a Kikuyu, at 15 R. per mensem. He is much stronger tho’ perhaps not so
intelligent as Maweru.
29 December 1917
Walked into Nairobi before ‘brekker’. Splendid morning. Passed lots of Tommies &
haartebeest a couple of miles out of Nairobi: they let me come within 100 yards of
them without rising to their feet. This was in the reserve of course. Did some
shopping in the forenoon and have arranged with Standring at the English Pharmacy
to develop my films & send prints home. I deposited 10 R. with him to be going on
with. Called at the Analytical Department on Birch. Found him in the lab, in the
middle of a nauseous smell emanating from the stomach of a poisoned Kikuyu which
was boiling merrily in a cupboard. Had lunch with him at the New Stanley. Rode out
to camp at night on a donkey, along with Maloney on the C.O.’s horse. Took 1 3/4
hours to the job. Splendid night, especially after the moon rose. Arrived at camp sore
behind with the donkey’s jog-trot. Got the rest of my packing done and into bed by 10
p.m.
HEADING UP COUNTRY
30 December 1917
Up at 5 a.m. Dawn just breaking. Breakfast in a hurry & marched into Nairobi,
arriving there about 9 a.m. The men were fed on the hill, on mealie-meal, monkey
nuts, dates & potatoes. Their methods aren’t very cleanly, and the meal at least
didn’t seem half cooked. It must be very filling because there wasn’t a great deal of
it. They roll it into a ball in their hands & then eat it, after dipping it into a basin of
melted ‘ghee’ – dirty greasy stuff. Brown and I walked down to the New Stanley for
lunch. On the way we passed St. Stephen’s church where there were a lot of blacks
worshipping & I think whites too. I was surprised to find myself feeling ‘disgusted’ at
the idea of equality – unstrictured, as it were. Then came the question "What of your
religion?" "Aren’t they all equal in that?" Somehow I feel there’s something wrong
there.
The draft was inspected at the station by the General, & then we got aboard. I was
much relieved when my boy turned up. I was afraid he had bunked with my
haversack & lamp & was cursing my stupidity. As it is, three of our boys did leave
their bwanas in the lurch. It’s rather a favourite dodge & you want to have some sort
of hold on them there. I hadn’t & was all the more surprised at my good fortune. We
left Nairobi about 3 p.m. to the strains of Auld Lang Syne from the 3rd. K.A.R. band.
The draft consists of Penfold, Maloney, Carter, Watson, Brown, Shettaford(?) &
myself , along with 130 ascaris. We had a pretty decent dinner at Kiri, about 7.30
p.m. We saw the stony athi plains better than coming up. The stoniness seems to be
the result of weathering of the lava-flows certain parts taking longer to weather than
the rest and standing up. Very little soil, the wind must play a large part in
disintegration. These plains are a good example of the influence of geological
structure on surface features. You can see the difference at once when you pass
from the lava country to the gneissic, and again the coastal belt of sedimentary rocks
has a scenery of its own. I don’t know what the hills round Voi are composed of.
31 December 1917
Wakened about 6 a.m. & had a shave & a cat’s wash, there being no water in the
compartment. Had to wait for breakfast till we reached Voi at 10.30: before that we
tried hard biscuits and coffee made with warm water from the engine. Served out the
rations at Voi. The Mahommedans won’t eat ‘bully’ – or any meat whose throat
hasn’t been cut by a Mahommedan. I tried to get a photo of some policemen here as
they were rather fine specimens but they refused unless I would give them a copy. I
couldn’t promise that so had to try to snap one on the q.t. Plenty game about,
especially hartebeest, tommies, grant’s, & ostriches. A few giraffes were seen too
but not by me. Lunch at Samburu, for 2 rupees. After that we had a pretty quick run
down to Kilindini getting there at 6 p.m. just as it was getting dusk. We detrained &
lay about for an hour and a half until the staff made up their mind what to do with us.
At last when it was quite dark we were told to march into quarters close at hand.
Having disposed of the men we got hold of our own stuff. Brown & I getting one tent,
where our boys soon rigged up our beds & mosquito nets. Altho’ this is Hogmanay
we didn’t attempt to sit up. The air was moist & clammy & we were glad to get into
pyjamas. No necessity to use blankets at all. I must say the net isn’t so fuggy as I
expected. There are said to be lots of mosquitoes about altho’ I have seen or heard
none. Had dinner in the mess & turned in very early.
1918
January 1918
1 January 1918
Up shortly after six. Moist & warm already, & the exertion of dressing puts you into a
sweat. After breakfast Brown & I went up to Mombasa, had a game of pills at the
club, & then went to the bank, which we managed to get into by the back door. We
had forgotten that this being New Year’s Day would be a holiday. As a matter of fact,
all the shops were shut with one fortunate exception, a British Store where we
managed to get what we wanted. We also managed, thro’ the bank, to fix up for the
storage of some of our kit — Brown left two boxes, & I one, - with Messrs. V.
Mendonza & Bro, P.O.Box …,,Mombasa, (shipping agents). There is no receipt but
they will be recoverable no doubt thro’ the Standard bank here, should anything
happen to me. I have only some clothes, a pair of boots, mess tunic & tartan slacks
etc. in my box. We embarked on H.M.T. Princess in the afternoon.
She is a fairly big boat, captured from
the Germans at the beginning of the
war. I am very lucky in having a cabin
to myself, altho’ it may only be for a
night. As soon as I had seen the kit
aboard I had a bath, a most acceptable
thing too, & fine to get wallowing in
water again. We left Kilindini just as
the sun was going down. There was a
stiff breeze blowing & a fair swell
running.
Dinner — a new year’s one at that, a short stroll on deck, & so to bed.
2 January 1918
Wakened in good time by Haranja’s head at the door. We expected to go ashore this
morning so had everything packed & ready by breakfast time. We got into Dar-EsSalaam about 11 a.m. & dropped anchor outside the bar. The country is low-lying
and wooded: what we can see of D.Es.S. amounts to a long white porticoed building
on the sea-front, a few smaller ones in the trees & a couple of church spires. The
real harbour lies further in, the entrance marked by a stranded steamer which the
Huns tried to sink across the channel. On our left lie one or two islands — probably
coral.
We hear now we are to be aboard until Friday. I have got a few letters written today
and am reading Lavengro.
3 January 1918
Spent the forenoon darning socks. Still very hot and moist but there is a fair breeze
out here especially at nights. I sat on deck last night for a long time with Lt. Sharpe
Intelligence Dept. He has been away from home for 24 years, and has seen a good
piece of the world. Of late years he has been trading round about the Lakes and
lived with the Kavirondos for several years. Kavirondos belong to two races — Nilotic
Kavs. & Bantu Kavs. Their farming — e.g. plowing, sowing etc. is governed by the
stars which are interpreted for them by one of the old men of the tribe. He has been
among the Masai too. They have been intermarrying with the other tribes for some
time & may gradually be changed that way — e.g. they eat rice now, a thing they
wouldn’t look at before. They have never learned to work because there’s no work in
their country to be done. Their huts are only branches & saplings with cow-dung
thrown on top. We got on to talking about religion. Sharpe believes this world is the
end of everything, & if he didn’t argue very well about it he was dogmatic enough. He
wouldn’t live at home now — too small & confined. Advocates the open air nomadic
life as being the happiest, which I suppose it may easily be.
The staff changed its mind and decided that we should disembark today which we
did, by means of a small tug and a bit of a scramble. It was dark by the time we got
on shore. On the way in we passed the "Konig" which the Germans tried to sink
across the navigable channel. The entrance is quite narrow, & then widens out into a
capacious bay along the North? Side of which runs the town. In the centre are the
two churches, & right & left runs a street of substantial white buildings, Cocoa-nut
palms & flamboyant acacias grow along the streets & beach. We walked up to the
camp, Brown & I together, & after a bit of a job managed to get a corner in a
marquee. We turned in after a mangie dinner. Had to rig up our mosquito nets. A
nice cool breeze blowing thro’ the palms and shaking the leaves like heavy rain.
4 January 1918
Up at 6 a.m. and had a bathe in the bay, about 200 ft. from the tent. Water very
warm, nearly tepid. Very bad mess here run by a Greek who would be making a
fortune if so many officers didn’t get their own back by going off without paying their
mess bills. He charges 2R,75 a day, & draws our rations. Very hot and moist today;
hardly able to do anything and it’s worse if you sleep: you feel so rotten when you
waken.
After tea Brown & I had another bathe. It is worth living thro’ heat like this to have
such glorious balmy evenings. The sand here full of land crabs — small ones, with
highly coloured pincers. Also saw oysters & littornia rudis? growing on the stems of
bushes on the sea-shore. After that we had a ricksha down to the town and back.
The buildings, most of them, are very substantial, porticoed with jalousies on the
German pattern, & it is queer to see all the German names, notices etc. still up. I
only wish this was in Europe & we in a German town. As a matter of fact I believe a
lot of Germans are still carrying on trade here. It is only lately that the German
hairdresser was closed down I know. A great many of the buildings have been taken
over as hospitals for which they seem admirably suited. The front is well lit up at
nights — no lighting regulations here. A number of small dhows & one large one
were lying just off the shore. The big one was a very queer looking thing with very
high poop & forward slanting mast. We turned in early but Stuttaford & Co were in
good form so it was some time before we got to sleep. We are for Lindi tomorrow.
5 January 1918
We marched down from camp at 9a.m.: very hot & thirsty by the time we got to the
quay so we had some lime-juice in a café run by as German looking a fraulein as
you could want to see. She was also sulky. In the course of the forenoon, at the
expense of much perspiration & with the aid of a tug & a lighter, we got out to the
"Kwong-Sang", a Chinese steamer of small size, and after a bit of a struggle got
aboard. The ascaris are very awkward about climbing & going up or sown stairs,
especially if they are laden with a rifle, a bag full of water, a pair of boots slung round
their necks, & full marching order in addition. If their boots are on their feet they are
worse still. Water is going to be rather a problem on this boat so each man has
brought a chagul & water-bottle full aboard, & we have done the same. We have also
to look after our own feeding, & live entirely on deck. We managed lunch off tinned
stuffs & bread. We left at 3p.m., or thereabouts; a good breeze blowing & as we
were running broadside to the swell we rolled a good deal. We had dinner off bully&
potato hash, & very good too. Turned in very early, about 7p.m. and had to lie
watching the stars because the captain came down in a towering rage that he
couldn't see to steer for our lamps.
6 January 1918
Wakened in the small hours by Brown & Stuttaford who had to move from beside the
funnel because of the rain & soot. I slept on till 6a.m., had a bath & dressed in some
discomfort, the decks all wet & slippery. We got into Kilwa shortly after breakfast bully & hash. The approach to the port - Kilwa itself lies 16 miles further up country is more deceptive than Dar-Es-Salaam. We approached the low coast, with the usual
cocoa-nut trees, an opening appeared in front of us, & we passed in with a line of
surf on our starboard, breaking on a reef which lay well out from the land. This reef
turned up the estuary, fringing it on both sides. We approached to within less than
100 ft., & took soundings, wanting to anchor I suppose but got no bottom, so backed
out & after some wandering about a steam launch appeared round a corner further
up & we were guided in. We anchored off the village which appears to consist only of
a hospital, a camp & a jetty. A lot of M.T.C.[?] men got off here. I believe they have a
hard time of it in this country. We lay there all day: it was very cool & cloudy, but
there was a pretty bad miff emanating from the ascaris in the forward part of the ship
& wafted back to us. A few dug-out canoes came off to sell brightly coloured
"cockatoo" fish. We left about 5p.m. & I had another chance of seeing the coral reef.
I read Darwin's theory in his 'Beagle' today. I suppose these here are fringing reefs.
There is little in the nature of lagoon inside the reef - just low flats (sandy?). at the
back of the shore there are large blocks & small cliffs of what I take to be eroded
coral. They can be seen at Dar-Es-Salaam, & Kilindini. Also D.-Es-Salaam & Kilwa
seem to be on a raised beach, This of course points to elevation along the coast
here.
7 January 1918
It didn't rain last night so we rose in comfort this morning. We got into Lindi harbour
soon after breakfast. It was a slow job transferring the men & baggage into lighters
but we got ashore by about 2 o'clock. Marched to the camp at the back of the town.
As usual we found that we weren't expected and that there was no accommodation
ready. To add to the pleasantness of the situation it was raining heavily. At last the
ascaris were housed & ourselves ditto but owing to some mix-up we could muster
only a few biscuits & a couple of tins of bully by way of grub. This is about the first
time I have been really dependent on ration & it brought home to me what our own
men must have had to put up with in the old days in France when the rations "didn't
come up". We managed a kettle of tea later on than which there is nothing better for
cheering the drooping spirits. Four of us also managed a very fine bathe on the
sands. There were a number of N.C.O.s dragging a net, in which I saw a good
number of small fish - mostly an isobilaterally flattened species, & also a 'scabbard
fish'. I got a few shells - cypraea, large strombus mitra ? ovula? The high ground on
which our camp lies is evidently a coral reef: a similar reef runs along the other side
of the estuary, & seems to consist of a number of terraces, each marking perhaps a
stage in the elevation. The town is built on a sandy flat, at the foot of the reef, which
has evidently been so much elevated as to have preserved it from erosion by the
sea: in other words there seems to be more elevation here than at Kilwa, or Dar-EsSalaam. I have left one of my boxes and my tin bath at a store in Lindi care of "S.S.
and T.O.", Lindi. The box would be worth recovering as there's a good deal of kit in
it. In view of an early start tomorrow we turned in after packing everything we want
for 'the safari'.
8 January 1918
Up at 5, tea & biscuit, wash, and onto parade. Didn't get away until about 7a.m.
Spitting rain. From the top of the ridge (reef) about 15-minute walk from camp we
had a fine view to the west - first a steep declivity, and then a series of low ridges
away to the horizon: bush everywhere except for some broad sandy patches in the
river bed. Had breakfast of bully, biscuits, bananas and tea at 9a.m. & reached
Mingoyo shortly after noon ( 12 miles). Very moist walking. Mingoyo camp on high
sandy ground between two small stream beds. A tidal arm runs up from Lindi estuary
to Mingoyo where they have a wharf & where our kit was to arrive this forenoon.
Owing however to the excellencies of the staff work it didn't arrive until
10.30p.m.when we scrambled for our valises in the stinking inside of a dhow, & after
much ado, got to bed.
9 January 1918
I am orderly officer for this week so have had to buzz about trying to get our kit and
the men's packs. The latter can't be found. Maloney fell foul of the U.L.O. this
morning - a relation & namesake of Smuts. Very warm here during the day: some
thunder further west. Had a fine sponge down after dinner just before to bed.
Mosquitoes are pretty bad here.
10 January 1918
Packs turned up today to my great relief. We are stuck here for the time being as
there are no porters available. Our battalion is from 2-300 miles up & said to be
making its way across to join up with Northey's column which has worked up from
Nyasaland. In that case it will take us a considerable time to catch them up, anything
up to six weeks; and with the rains so near the prospect isn't very fascinating. We
had a very heavy shower today. The water ran off the sandy soil like off pavement
and we had to get busy with spades and put ditches around the tents. It cleared up
as soon as we had things in working order. I had a talk with Smuts tonight. He is a
large Dutchman. "I am sick of men" he said, "& supplies & ships: I never want to see
them again, after the war is finished. I will be quite content with my garden." I think
it's the same with most. They will be glad to go back again to the quiet things when
this is all over.
11 January 1918
There was a good deal of rain today. I wanted to go down to Lindi for pay for the
men & to get a few things for ourselves. Thro’ the feeble intelligence of Haranja I
missed the steam launch, tho' he didn't, taking my bedding etc. with him, & I had to
follow several hours later on a small dhow. I only caught it by hiring a canoe &
chasing it. The wind was against us, so after poling about 1/3 of the way down the
crew intimated their intention of spending the night on the river & proceeding to Lindi
the following morning. This was cheery news for me as I had only a burberry with me
and it promised well to be a night of rain. I had the alternatives of the stinking hold
beside the crew or the dripping poop and the mosquitoes. I was beginning to set the
poop in order when we came in sight of a number of lights on the shore. This proved
to be the camp of Arab House. The dhow anchored off it for the night so that they
could send me ashore in the small boat. This they did and I inquired for the nearest
Mzungu. By great good luck I struck two captains - Watkins R.E. & Skelly M.L.O. just sitting down to dinner. They invited me in immediately and made me very
welcome both to their food and to their whisky. Watkins gave me a tent, bed and
blankets - "a home from home". Hospitality is one of the great virtues.
12 January 1918
Slept rather restlessly as I was afraid of sleeping in and missing the dhow, which
was to leave at 6a.m. The frogs in the side of the river made a tremendous noise last
night. The mosquitoes didn't disturb me as I expected, altho' I had no net. The small
boat picked me up at the wharf & we got under weigh. Arab House, I understand
from the hosts of last night, stands on the site of an old Arab stockade which was the
rendezvous for pirates & slavers. It is an ideal spot for that - on a low spit of sand
among the mangrove swamps, and well up from the sea: the high reef behind would
give a fine observation point.
There was a light wind down-stream so our passage was very slow to begin with but
quickened when we got down to the broad stretch of water above Lindi. On landing I
went up to the Detail Camp & found my boy: I gave a bit of my mind & very nearly
my boot as well. I find I am getting very short-tempered. Haranja's face gets most
enticing sometimes & I can hardly keep myself from skelping it. He is an absolute
fool and looks it. I am surprised that I didn't see the utter stupidity on his face before I
left M'bagathi. I wish I could sack him now.
There aren't many things one can buy in Lindi: matches & cigarettes aren't to be had,
and soap is very scarce. It's the same all over the country. Very few consignments
are coming out from home. We got the steam launch at 12.30p.m. Here again
nobody knew when it was to leave not even the M.L.O. The stream is bordered on
both sides by belts of mangrove trees. These aren't of one species only altho' the
true mangrove seems to be there with its viviparous seedlings. The roots form an
impenetrable tangle and the soft black ooze round them would wake walking an
impossibility.
Penfold and I walked over to the 4/4th after tea. I called at the 1/3rd. to see Dannie
Swanson but find he went to hospital in November. Maloney, Brown, Carter and
Stuttaford went on by trolley this morning. They are to try to reach the battalion: if
they can't they will wait for us.
13 January 1918
Very little doing today: I was to have taken a military funeral party, but orders were
cancelled. There are a good many crocking it in the hospital over the road - an
average of 1 European a day, which is very little of course compared with France,
but it gets monotonous hearing the last post. There has been a good deal of rain
today. We are having our trials with Haranja and Alexander as cooks.
14 January 1918
Same as yesterday. Sleeping & eating. A few light showers, but more threatening.
No word of porters yet. Battalion reported about 1/2 way between here & Lake
Nyasa & going west.
15 January 1918
No rain today, but sky overcast. Several days since we have seen the sun so it is
much cooler. We have taken to feeding under my mosquito net, to keep the flies off
us. A small fly, like the common house fly, is the most troublesome and persistent. At
night time all sorts of insects come to the lamps: it would be a rare field for an
enthusiastic entomologist. We tried unsuccessfully to get a couple of mokes for the
safari: the roads are reported to be very bad in places already, and unless we get
porters soon, we will run a big risk of getting hung up by the big rains.
16 January 1918
Leaden skies today but very little rain. Preparations are being made for the rainy
season. The Lindi road is closed to vehicles to prevent it being destroyed. They are
cutting down every scrap of vegetation round the camp to keep down the
mosquitoes; & everywhere drains are being dug and roofs strengthened. We hear
now that the battalion has gone to join Northey at Songia, which is about 140 miles
this side Lake Nyasa. Don't know what the ultimate object is, unless they are going
down the lake. Von Lettow has made a raid near Port Amelia, chased the
Portuguese home & taken a lot of stores There is some rumour of him going to try to
get down to South Africa & stir up another Dutch rebellion. Penfold & I walked over
to 4/4th. K.A.R. They are leaving very soon for Port Amelia, down in Portuguese
East. The walk did us a lot of good, & we found a very tender steak ready for us
when we got back here - the first of its kind that has appeared. We talked until pretty
late about Spiritualism, the next world, Creation vs. Evolution etc. Penfold suggests
that if the brain is what retains our thoughts etc. & the mind simply works over it, then
when the brain is destroyed all these thoughts go with it.
17 January 1918
Brighter today. Had a short walk in the forenoon. Peculiar erosion of sand in sandpit,
evidently due to rain. Pinnacles of sand left where protected by small stone like
Geikie's slide of the Austrian Tyrol. Got a lot of flakes of flinty stone, as well as of
pure quartz, quartzite and hard quartzose grit. Couldn't say whether the flakes are
human handiwork, but think not. They have been made from pebbles of above rock.
Wonder where pebble bed is. Walked down to 4/4th. for dinner which was some
affair. Got back pretty late: splendid night. Fireflies very thick early in the evening but
disappeared later. I caught one the other night. The underside of the hindquarters is
luminous with pulsating light as if when fly drew breath.
20 January 1918
Have just got back from Lindi. I started off yesterday morning at 7a.m. We had a very
slow journey down, in a rotten little dhow which was part of a tow. Put off a lot of time
at Arab House and didn't reach Lindi until 1.30. I managed to get the stuff from
Ordnance that we wanted, went along to the Carrier Corps for a cook, and got back
to find there were no dhows going up to Mingoyo that night. There was nothing other
for it than the detail camp: fortunately I had brought my flea bag & groundsht and so
had the ascaris & boys. Had dinner at the Officers Mess there - nothing since
breakfast so I made a square meal. Today we managed to miss the tow which by
some perversion of the usual rule left before its time. We got our stuff into a small
dhow & got away before 9a.m. Had fair good passage until we grounded at 1p.m.
just short of Mingoyo & had to sit there in spasmodic drizzle, looking at a margin of
mangrove swamp until the tide came up at 6p.m. A pleasant Sunday afternoon, if
only we had had a full stomach, but we saw no food at all until after 7p.m.
21 January 1918
Spent the day equipping the draft & details & getting all ready for the start tomorrow.
Am now just going to turn in: everything packed & carried over to the station except
valises. Have taken on a Yao toto today: also got a Mziba cook from the Carrier
Corps at Lindi on Saturday so we have some prospect of feeding decently. Weather
cool & dull.
JOINING THE BATTALION
22 January 1918
Wakened at 3.30a.m. Breakfast of bully & tea and got 'entrained' by 6a.m. We can't
get porters at Mingoyo so are going as far as Mtama (28 miles) on the trolley. It is a
very light railway made by the Germans and very useful to us for getting supplies up.
The motive power are Ford driven trolleys, with Indian or Goanese drivers. I enjoyed
the run up here very much. The track runs along the Lukeledi valley, now along the
top, now down in the bottom. The ground is all composed of the same sandy stuff as
at Mingoyo except when it is loamy occasionally. We passed thro' a couple of big
rubber plantations lost now to the Germans whether we will make anything out of
them or not. At Schadels farm the ascaris are cutting them down to make huts, but I
understand that it is an inferior brand of rubber & not now paying. For the rest of the
country, it is mostly bush, with occasional patches of bananas, & mango trees here
and there. We had a few breakdowns on the way but got into Mtama about 11 a.m. &
soon got settled down: for once we were expected. We are to go on tomorrow with a
donkey convoy which is to take us as far as Tunduru.
23 January 1918
Up at 5 but didn't get away till after 7 as the O.C. donkeys turned up late with a thick
head. Slight friction to begin with which hasn't subsided yet quite. We have a lot of
ammunition with us: the loads are put on the donkeys, one on each side in a rope
net. The pace was pretty slow. We have come only about 8 miles & took nearly four
hours. Road, which is in pretty good condition, tho' sandy, runs thro' Lukeledi Valley.
Bush thick in places but mostly rather thin. A few palms (not cocoa-nuts) & bananas:
plenty mimosas, many in flower. Arrive Mahiwa 11 a.m. Small camp & hospital,
mainly occupied by Indians, on open ground on terrace above river. Camped just on
the edge of the bush, among some tall trees. We bro't a tent from Mingoyo for which
we are very thankful & will be more so when it rains. Very cool today. Twelve men
sick: five including Haranja to go back to Mtama hospital tomorrow, mostly dysentery
but Har. has fever. Trying to send remainder forward by car to Missassi. Saw two
small snakes today; many queer grasshoppers of sorts here, fine examples of
protective colouring, especially in the one which goes snapping thro' the air - yellow
while 'flying' & drops to ground green & very difficult to see. Should be very
successful with its double adaptation. Just killed a small scorpion on floor of tent. We
have brought 11 chickens with us: unfortunately no cock. They are very much at
home in the tent & do good work among the ants. We have them carried in a home
made basket. Very evident that this part been lately elevated from sea level. Skyline
straight as a ruler - just like Picardy: valleys scooped out in plateau. Soil sandy, like
Mingoyo.
24 January 1918
Started 6a.m.from Mahiwa, leaving ten men to go back to hospital. Had a mule to
ride today, but found it almost as hard as walking unless I let him take his own time.
If I lived among mules or ascaris very long I think my temper would go altogether. I
suppose I don't understand them, that's the reason. Pretty hot today. The road runs
more or less along the Lukeledi valley. It is in good condition & plenty gangs working
on it, - laying metal, trees etc. They are using quartz pebbles , & schistose rocks.
Passed several small bosses of the latter. Bush not thick here: bamboos common.
The Romans must have tackled rather similar conditions in Britain, & yet their roads
are in good order yet: ours will be obliterated in a couple of years. It was a long
march today - 14 miles & took us nearly six hours. Got into Ndanda at noon. The
boys weren't up so made coffee for ourselves. The tent was soon up, below some
trees: the ascaris bivouacing, mostly under their mosquito nets only, beside us. We
are near a small stream of very good water. this part of the country is well off in that
respect, especially at this season. We have been eating & drinking ever since we
came in: breakfast of course was very early & scrimpy. Had a bath in a hole in the
ground with a waterproof sheet inside it, - much handier than carrying a bath.
25 January 1918
Rather a violent thunderstorm during the night, with very vivid lightning but not much
rain fell. This morning it was drizzly but good for marching. The donkeys were rather
done up after yesterday's long trek, but today's was only 5 miles. Consequently we
got in about 8.30a.m. to Ndanda. It is a fairly big camp, with hospital in the old
German mission buildings. The scenery is rather different from what we have had so
far. The Lukeledi which is only a small burn runs behind the camp, & beyond it are
two medium sized hills densely wooded to the top. The timber hereabouts is taller
than nearer the coast & the bush, what you can see of it from the road, more open.
People here are very dubious as to whether we'll get thro' to Tunduru or not. There
seems to be some difficulty with regard to porters, & a couple of rivers we have to
cross may give trouble. However Penfold is determined to go ahead & we have
drawn 3 weeks rations, which ought to see us to Tunduru. From there to Songia is
10 days march. There are very few rations at Tunduru so we will need to go straight
through. We put another 10 men, including the new cook, into hospital here - malaria
and dysentery. - so we are now down to 37 - having started from Mingoyo with 58.
26 January 1918
Left Ndanda at 6a.m. and marched till 9 a.m. Pitched camp at Tschikukwa, where
there is a telegraph office, a few roadmen, & some water. Very fine day, & good road
Ground rather flat, & drainage difficult, so the road will be pretty bad during the rains.
They are metalling it with schistose rocks evidently from the rock which forms the
hills on the left of the road. Saw some good specimens of Augen-gneiss; parrots &
woodpeckers. Camped on the edge of the river bank. The river is only a string of
holes with water, but the water is good. Spent the afternoon devising measures for
the men's rations - starting with a tin of bully as unit of measure, and a piece of stick
with cups tied to it as scales. The Q.M. clerk who was with us turned back at Ndanda
sick so we are left to our own devices. Pratley & Cairncross, & S.Major Addey have
joined us. Our chickens are a bit of a nuisance: they require careful transport on a
donkey, & as we let them run loose when we get into camp, it takes about an hour
every night to catch them again. We had a grand dinner tonight - roasted monkey
nuts, followed by bully, some green vegetable like spinach which the boys got, and
boiled beans, rice & date pudding & coffee. I took on a new boy last night, Light
"Willie". I think he is a good one at last. The mtoto Asari, is pathetically stupid & slow
but doesn't get on my nerves the same way as Haranja did, who was a sumpf, & I
hope doesn't turn up again. By the bye, I owe him 12 rupees.
Splendid moonlight night. Fireflies and frogs galore.
27 January 1918
Splendid morning. We had a short march of 8 miles today, getting in about 9a.m.
Nice camping ground on a clear space near water. The wood is very thin here: we
can see over the tops of the trees a number of bald rocky hills - granitic or gneiss I
should say. The ground here is sandy, or rather gritty, with small quartz pebbles as
main or only constituent. After issuing the rations I had a sick parade. First of all I set
out all the medicine I have got so as to impress the ascaris & then had them brought
up. A number of them are suffering from diarrhoea & one from dysentery, probably
from drinking unboiled water. I have no medicine here for their trouble, so gave them
quinine and some pure water. One had lumbago, so I applied iodine but must find
something other as I haven't much of that. If they haven't faith I can do them no
good, because I have very little medicine for them. There doesn't seem to be much
fever among those who are left, altho' Penfold's boy, Alexander, seems to have a
touch of it. I wrote home this afternoon but as there are no envelopes I'm going to tie
it round a piece of stick. I wonder if it gets there. We killed & ate the first hen today: it
is a long time since it was a chicken but went down nicely with greens & beans. My
new boy is turning out quite well & is taking the lead in cooking. Today being
Sunday, I felt rather good & went for a short stroll by my self. It is a lovely evening
with full moon. The nightly noises have got into full swing and the camp is settling
down except for an occasional word from the donkey corall.
28 January 1918
We started off at 5.30 this morning by moonlight. Splendid march to Massassi Boma
getting there about 8.30. It was thro' more varied country than ever before, as we
came right up to the hills I mentioned yesterday. They have perfectly rounded profile,
& might easily be taken as glaciated, but it is only the way they weather - in the same
way as a block of dolerite, by exfoliation. The tops of the hills were hidden in mist
until about 8a.m. & the rising sun caught it & turned it red. It is just at this time of day
& in the evening that this life is most charming and one feels inclined to follow it for
the remainder of one’s days. We passed the British Mission at Massassi, built close
up to a rocky boss, among the trees & commanding a very wide view. There are
quite a number of natives living round here, with small shambas of maize & bananas.
Massassi Boma, or camp, is on rising ground between a couple of prominent rocky
hills. Water is rather difficult to get, otherwise the situation is ideal. We got into some
bandas. Picked up other two N.C.O.s who have been waiting to get through.
Managed to get some medical stores - aspirin, lead & opium, a thermometer etc.
Two men went to hospital today - dys. & fever. Turning in early tonight. We are to
rest here tomorrow as over a hundred of the donkeys are sick.
29 January 1918
Spent a quiet day. Climbed one of the smaller hills after tea. It is gneiss? as I
expected, with acid veins running through. Got a good view of the country all round.
It is rather open round about Massassi but more densely wooded further out. It is
gently undulating with peculiar isolated, abrupt hills like those I was on - sort of large
copjes, or like the Brackside Hills at Reay, on a very large scale. A haze prevented a
good view. We are for the road for Tunduru tomorrow at 5a.m. I wonder how many of
the askaris will stick it out.
30 January 1918
Got away at 5a.m. prompt. Fine morning. Thirteen miles today before we got to
water, at Ngongomuthi (Mikangaule). Disturbed some white headed vultures in the
bush evidently discussing a carcass of some sort. Four men down with fever temperatures from 100 degrees to 104. One with dysentery. Have set aside a banda
as an hospital: doctored them with aspirin & tea & when their temperatures turned to
come down, I started them on quinine. Don't think they will be very fit for tomorrow.
Very hot today in the afternoon, but we were in camp by 10.30. Met a large number
of porters coming from the Rovuma & Tunduru. There has evidently been a good
deal of rain there & the rivers are up.
31 January 1918
A good deal of rain during the night, which was also disturbed by the donkeys, which
happened to be rather nearer us than usual. On account of the rain, the start was
delayed until 5.30a.m. when the clouds broke & we had a good march to Mtumbo, on
the Bangalla River. The sick were sent on ahead and managed to do the journey all
right. The country was as per usual - bush all the way, with a few of these bald
rounded hills as a change. They are often very abrupt, & sheer, like Edin. Castle on
theWest side. They must be intruded into the general body of the schists surely. We
got into an old Indian camp about 9a.m. but put up the tent in preference to living in a
lousy banda. There was a decent mess with seats & table. I understand these have
been built at many points along the road so we shouldn't do too badly. There were
bandas enough & to spare for all the men. I had one for the sick again. Three new
cases today, - fever. They won't report sick for fear of being sent back. The spirit is
all right, but the result is bad, as they are in a high fever before they come for
medicine. Most of them lose heart then. Few of them have any guts when they are ill.
I had their equipment & rifles carried on the mules today but the rifles will have to be
carried tomorrow as Penfold had a row today with the Donkey man. I am rather
anxious about one or two tonight, as their temperatures have gone up & one at least
seems rather dotty. I should be inclined to send them back from here, altho' that
wouldn't be easy to arrange, but Penfold wants them to try tomorrow yet. Very warm
this afternoon, altho' the sun wasn't bright. Quite impossible to rest in the tent, so I
went down to the river with a towel, & bathed my feet. The Bangalla river is a
watercourse varying from three yards to thirty, and at this time of the year is
represented by a series of pools of dirty brown water. Penfold & I went down after
tea and poured several bucketfuls of water over us. We thought at first it would be
rather dirty, but found later that it was the drinking pool we had struck. The Bangalla
is a tributary of the Rovuma. We have crossed over from the Ludeledi valley into the
basin of the Rovuma. The watershed is round about the high ground at Massassi.
February 1918
1 February 1918
Got away at 5a.m. Country rather swampy: road built up on logs, & will be scarcely
passable after rain. Marched about 11 1/2 miles to Mbarakwe where we got into a
fairly decent camp. Roomy banda did Penfold & me as mess & sleeping apartments.
Plenty water in stream nearby. Behind the camp there is a high boss of rock which I
climbed in the evening with Cairncross. It is practically bare rock & sheer sides:
granite surrounding rock biotite schist. The sick all got in in good time altho' I was
rather afraid of some of them. I have them now in a couple of comfortable bandas &
most of them - 6 of the 10 at least are nearly all right. Penfold has a temp. of 102
degrees tonight & seems to be in for fever.
2 February 1918
Off before 5a.m. Cool day threatening rain. Passed more of these abrupt rocky hills
which we saw from hill top last night. I thought they were a day’s march away but we
reached them in 1 1/2 hours. - Haze very deceptive. Road deteriorating but still good
as long as it is dry. Passed spoor of elephants. Penfold still bad today & is in bed
now with high temperature. We have camped among the bush on west bank of a
decent stream of water. The ascaris have built lean tos for themselves and we have
just had a heavy shower to test them. Today’s march was full 15 miles & tomorrows
possibly 20. All the sick got in to time but if they get a wetting now will probably be
thrown back again.
3 February 1918
Started before 4 this morning by the ‘pale moonlight’. Marched till 9 o'clock. Country
more open: occasional hills. Had breakfast and a couple of hours rest. Then carried
on to Limessule arriving about 1 o'clock - seven hours marching in all. It must have
been very stiff for the sick, altho' they were put on donkeys for the last 2 1/2 hours.
Penfold pretty bad too. Limessule is a moderate sized camp on open ground above
the river of the same name. We got into an open banda & put our beds up. Very
tired.
4 February 1918
Done up today, so didn't get up till late forenoon. Think I did too much yesterday.
Have had occasional storms of thunder & lightning last few days but so far have
escaped most of the rain. We heard today that the Mohese river, one day's march
this side Tunduru is impassable & Brown, Carter & Stuttaford held up there. It is 3
days from here. Heard later they have got through now. We are discarding the
donkeys here and going forward with porters which have been hired locally. There
seems to be a fair population round about, but hidden away in the bush mostly. They
are in straits for food, all their stores having been cleared out by Germans. They are
getting seed from our political officers, which should see them through. We have
been able to buy a few small tomatoes. Continual bully getting monotonous. The sick
are progressing: I discharged four from hospital within the last two days. Two new
fevers today.
5 February 1918
Didn't get away until 6.30 this morning. Country rather wilder, the track running thro'
rocky hills, & across many small streams, some knee deep. The track is just a path
now, without any preparation beyond cutting the bush. Pleasant marching in spite of
heavy shower in middle of day. Some signs of game - zebra, elephant (spoor),
baboon, etc. Good camp 6 miles out, built by 3/4 K.A.R. but we went on anther 5,
and are now camped where the road emerges from between two granite bosses of
usual type. Flies rather troublesome, among them clegs & tsetses (small variety,
which attacks game). We are just going back to the last stream to have a douche.
One of the two N.C.O.s has developed bad attack of fever on the road, so the two
are being left behind here to come on when he is better. Otherwise a small sick
parade today & no new cases. We have now exactly 40 askaris.
6 February 1918
Slight temperature last night, & was afraid of fever but it has cleared off. Marched
from six to eleven today. Quite cool, sky overcast all day, as it usually is now. We
seldom see the sun. The bush very open today, and glades frequent. No sign of
game at all and we are too lackadaisical to go out to look for any after getting into
camp. This is another old camp of the 3/4th. But the bandas are damp so we have
put up the tent. Cairncross has joined our mess, & is a great acquisition because he
can turn out some new and wonderful dishes, as well as scones and 'chipaties'. We
are all rather off colour today - heavy and liverish. Met an officer ‘coming thro' from
Tunduru today, who says the battalion has left Songia for the Lakes. Don't know
when we'll catch them as Songia is still about 12 days march away. As long as the
weather keeps like this it will be all right, but the heavy rains are due at the middle of
this month. We may have to see them out at Songia. I enjoy the marching very
much, Penfold and I usually in front with the askaris and as he doesn't talk much we
get along fine.
One case of fever today: all the others are now discharged fit altho' some of them
still look rather wan. Doctored a few of the porters.
7 February 1918
Very dull this morning and we hadn't got long started before it rained very heavily:
the path became a running stream, & we all got more or less soaked. It cleared up
later but the clouds have been low all day, & the sun only looked out for a few
minutes in the afternoon. We crossed the Mtitesa river easily enough by a rough
bridge which show signs of being soon washed away. We got to the Mohese at
10a.m. which was the great anxiety of the journey as it has frequently been
impassable lately & has held safaris up for some days. However we were lucky and
found it less than waist deep. We had got the loan of a mule & got across, dry, on it
one at a time. On the other side we halted & had a cup of OXO. The Mohese here is
about 60 yards broad, with a shoal in the middle. The eastern channel is slightly the
deeper. When the river is up, it will spread to include another channel to the west &
will then be impassable. From the river to the camp here is 1 3/4 hours march.
Altogether today we have done 6 hours, or about 15 miles. We have got settled
down & had breakfast about 2.30 p.m. - porridge, sausages, green peas, tomatoes,
tea & biscuits. It's really a question of food here. If you can't feed well, you can't keep
fit. I am feeling fine now, especially since Penfold cut my hair with his nail scissors.
8 February 1918
Today has been very fine & even hot. We got into Tunduru shortly after eleven, after
5 hours good marching. We were climbing most of the time so finished up pretty
high. The village of Tunduru lies in a valley, beside a small stream, with cultivated
patches in the trees round about. The camp stands on the edge of the plateau just to
the west. It had been cleared by the Germans probably for planting, and they had
built a boma & large turreted, barrack-like building of red brick on it. From here there
is a wide view to the north and east, over wooded valleys & ridges. To the south &
west the view is shut in by the forest on the plateau. No. 3 Coy. 3/4 K.A.R. is
stationed here at present, under command of Captn. Jardine. It seems this is to be
my company, so my safari days are over for the present. I am sorry not to be going
on with Penfold, but as I am to take over the company Lewis guns here there is
something to be thankful for.
Most of the 3/4th. have gone down to Lake Nyasa, where we will be following them
soon. There is no more news of the Huns breaking north. There have been no mails
here for three months or so. They seem to be rather well off tho' as regards food, &
there are some vegetables, especially pumpkin which is like turnip, to be had here.
SOLDIERING AFRICAN STYLE
9 February 1918
Started work this morning. Drill from 7 to 8a.m. Lewis guns 9-11.30 and as it rained
in the afternoon there was no parade. There are two Lewis guns here, rather
deficient in spare parts, and about three men who know anything about them.
Penfold looks like being held up here for some time as there are no porters to be had
here. The local men have all been sent in to Massassi to fetch seed, which the
British Govt. is supplying them with gratis.
10 February 1918
No parades today, so spent the day quietly, and getting my banda put to rights. Have
been troubled the last few days by a number of painful pimples on my arms & trunk. I
thought they were due to "prickly heat", but was suddenly disillusioned when looking
at one thro' my magnifying glass I saw movement inside it. Each pimple contained a
grey maggot which had to be removed by squeezing. It's a loathsome affliction. I
suppose I owe it to sleeping in a dirty banda at sometime, but another explanation I
hear is that a certain fly occasionally deposits its eggs on clothes that are laid out to
dry & the larvae afterwards work into your skin. Got a short letter away to Mother this
afternoon. Have been feeling sort of homesick today, probably because I'm not too
fit. And yet I have every reason to be content with my lot: but that seems to be a
constitutional impossibility.
11 February 1918
Making some progress with the Lewis guns. The askaris are pretty keen to learn,
and not too hopeless. Some of them pick it up surprisingly quick. Their attempts at
pronouncing the names of the parts are rather ludicrous but I'm not putting any
stress on that. I cut Penfold's hair tonight. It is easier than I thought but one is apt to
leave ridges: it is a good job he can't see the back of his head very well. Cairncross
left yesterday morning to take over a small post at Undi's, on the Rovuma. He'll be
there for about a month, without any other white man.
12 February 1918
Rather a better day - quite bright & hot, but a pleasant breeze with it: we are well off
in that respect up here. The nights are quite cool & even chilly and my sleeping bag
and thin blanket aren’t enough. I find that most of the Lewis gunners don't know the
numbers 1,2,3,etc. when they see them, so I have to start teaching them these, like
little children. I don't know how they set the sights on the rifle. It requires a good deal
of patience but they are very willing to learn & so good natured that I am ashamed
every time I get ratty. It's wonderful what they do learn, especially considering the
difficulties of the language which is just about as strange to them as it is to us. Asani
came in tonight & suggested that he should get 16 rupees a month. I suggested 5.
He said No, but I don't think he'll run away. I think he would be rather loyal, &
wouldn't like to lose him altho' he's not worth more than 6 rupees..
13 February 1918
Another very fine day: no sign of rain: sun very hot, especially down at the range
where I have been this afternoon. They are putting the company thro' a rough
musketry course but as the work is done by three white men and the company
numbers about 90, it is very little instruction that the individual gets. Individual
instruction is the only way to get first class results at musketry. The shooting is pretty
bad. The range is about 130 ft. & half the men get only a couple of shots on the
target. Of course they have had very little musketry training, & many have fired only
15 rounds before so we can't expect much. The effect of their fire against enemy in
trenches would be almost entirely moral. Seeing that fire is employed by volleys it
will be even worse in action than the mere excitement will make it. From the wireless
news today it doesn't look as if we will have much chance of trying the effect on the
Germans. Their askaris are deserting rather freely; and their columns are said to be
moving toward the coast, north of Port Amelia. All news comes here by wireless.
There is a station in the next field to us. It is funny to get & to see sent the most trivial
messages by wireless. There is a daily communique too which keeps us in touch
with the war. We have got orders today to wait here until further orders. We had
expected to move to join the battalion on Lake Nyasa in a couple of days. That is
postponed for the present and we aren't sorry. This is a fine place but it makes the
chance of getting caught in the rains greater than ever.
14 February 1918
Still very hot. Thunderstorm came up from the East in the evening but passed us by.
Splendid cloud effects and brilliant lightning. Have been feeling very fit these last
days, and am getting keen on the work and the men. I don't want to have the same
reproaches to make my self on that score as with the old No.4 Pltn. which I seldom
think of without regretting that I didn't do better by them. The only thing that remains
now is to do my best at the job in hand which seems rather trivial after France, but
such as it is may as well be done decently. We are doing pretty well for food here.
The hens are laying a few eggs, & we usually manage one a piece each morning,
There are some fresh vegetables to be got from Tunduru, at the foot of the hill pumpkin & tomatoes mainly, as well as small lemons and inferior bananas which
make weighty fritters. The cook is rather poor at making bread: it is just eatable.
There is a fair stock of whisky in the mess, which will be very welcome someday if it
lasts. At present an occasional 'sundowner' is very pleasant &, I like to believe, good
for one.
15 February 1918
Hot, some rain in the evening. The days are most uncomfortable about 3p.m. - too
hot to sleep & too sleepy to read. Had a pretty easy day. I am still reading Lavengro
& am wading thro' the 'Origin of Species' & trying to digest it. I am very glad that I
brought it with me. Î think that no matter where I was dumped I would be able to get
up enough interest to pass the time quite pleasantly with the help of it.
16 February 1918
Had the company by myself for an hour this afternoon & enjoyed myself thoroughly.
17 February 1918
The only parade today was a kit inspection. However I got up at the usual time and
went for a short stroll before breakfast. This is the best time of the day. The sun is
too low to have much heat, & everything looks fresh and green. I picked some of
these blue flowers which grow along the roadside,& examined them after getting
back to camp. The floral axis is branched & enclosed in a sort of bract which forms a
pouch, inside which there is a lot of mucousy stuff which keeps the young buds
moist. I exposed this stuff to the sun's direct rays for more than 2 hours & it has only
1/2 evaporated then altho' the plant was withered. I started a letter to Col.
Macfarlane today but don't know if I will continue it. I spent the afternoon in
'meditation' and watching one of these long wasp like things with the two drooping
legs make a nest of some sort in my banda. It brought in a lump of moist sand in its
mouth & kneaded it into position with its jaws & forelegs- first a platform and then the
walls. It tested the length every time by shoving its head into the nest & when it had
made it as long as necessary, cleaned its whiskers and left. I wonder when it will
come back to deposit the eggs or whatever is to go into the nest. Had a game of
chess with Carter in the evening which we drew. Felt rather groggy & have taken
aspirin. Temperature up slightly.
18 February 1918
Had a day off, which I spent in bed. Think I must have got a touch of the sun: I don't
think it's fever.
19 February 1918
Moult & Carter went out this morning on a 4 days' safari to see if they can do any
shooting. A big herd of elephant was reported near at hand the other day but are
believed to have moved away. However they may get some fresh meat for us, which
will be very welcome. Captn. Jardine & I are left: I had an easy day after 11.30a.m.
I'm reading "The Origin of Species" for the first time and am getting a lot of
enjoyment & instruction out of it. I'm very thankful I brought it with me. I have finished
Lavengro.
20 February 1918
Nothing exciting today. There has been no news for several days. The K.A.R.
detachments which have been doing garrison & patrol work down about the Rovuma
are all concentrating here and expect then to move on to Songia. The Rhodesian
Native Regt. have taken over here, & are finding the posts. I took a photo today of
some German porters who arrived here in an emaciated & tattered condition after
having run away from the Huns. We have a wood fire in front of the bandas in the
evening and sit round for an hour or so before dinner. The nights are so balmy that
the fire isn't necessary for warmth. The sky is almost cloudless, & the moon is very
bright. I had a mild argument or rather discussion with Jardine after dinner on the
question of the origin of man. I was very much surprised to find that he knows
absolutely nothing about modern natural science. He was at Cambridge for over two
years, altho' he came down before graduating - he never qualified in the matter of
residence, but he is a typical 'Cambridge man' with I suppose a typical Cambridge
education. Yet he evidently believes if he has ever thought about the matter, that
things are created as they stand. If the object of a university educn., as Sclater said
one day, is to develop a ‘many sided curiosity’, he certainly hasn't got it, because
there were other things e.g. the working of the human brain, that he confessed
absolute ignorance of . The proper study of mankind is man.' And yet he is no doubt
a very efficient person in his own line. I don't quite see in fact what he loses by his
ignorance of this particular branch unless it is a good deal of enjoyment and a certain
breadth & depth of view on many things, seeing that the theory of evolution has
moulded thought on so many different subjects.
21 February 1918
Penfold, Pratby & Hosegood are going on to Songia tomorrow, & taking letters with
them so I wrote today, one home, one to Louise, and to Mason Macfarlane. There is
a political here, living in the 'fort'. He has the supervision of the natives. He was up
here tonight. The products of this part in normal times are bees-wax, maize, rice. I
don't know if the natives have any system of beekeeping or not. The Germans swept
up most of the rice & the shenzis haven't been able to plant much since. P.S. The
wax is got from wild bee hives.
22 February 1918
Was wakened early this morning by the draft etc. leaving. Fired the Lewis Gun this
morning but had so many stoppages that we didn't get much done. My own efforts
weren't exactly exemplary. MacCunn came in today with this party from Sassaware
and with a large monocle. He reminds me of Splosh. I have been thinking tonight
that after the war I'll go home & take up Palaeontology seriously. No doubt this idea
is partly due to the Origin of Species, but it is always the same when I'm reading
scientific works so I think my bent, such as it is, must lie that way: partly it is due to
home sickness. The question of utility is going into the background. I have been
looking for too obvious a utility. The common man living the humdrum life must have
his usefulness.
Moult & Carter returned today from their expedition. They had neither shot nor seen
anything except a stinking elephant whose tusks the Political Officer has cut out & is
hoping to be able to stick to.
23 February 1918
The gun went rather better this morning. I think I'll get a couple of presentable men
out of the lot, for each gun. One of my platoon deserted today, after pinching a rifle. I
don't expect we'll see him again. The bush is a sure refuge. I sent a cable home
today saying I am well. They should have it by about Tuesday. I hope they
understand my slang.
The weather is still very warm, and almost too hot for parade at 3.30. There are a lot
of clouds about tho' & a good deal of lightning at nights. The moon is very bright and
the sky at night heaped with white cumulus clouds.
It is a triumph of cvilization to be in communicn. with home from the middle of Africa,
in a few hours. It is wonderful that "Cairnie Thurso" should be sufficient address: it is
also good from an economical point of view.
24 February 1918
I have had a very pleasant day. I wonder if it has been profitable at all: it is so easy
to lie and let your mind wander as it likes over memories grave & gay & I am rather
prone to doing it. We have had an absolutely free day & I have scarcely been across
the door. I had no book that quite suited my mood. I felt in a perfect Sunday morning
mood. I tried to rake up an old Testament but failed. I read about half of 1st.
Corinthians, which was probably too much. I have started at the beginning of the
'Origin of Species' again, having read the parts that chiefly interested me. There's a
lot I don't understand & far more that I haven't digested.
Cairncross came back from Undi’s today. It is 3 days good trek from here, on the
Rovuma & seems to be very low, depressing & unhealthy. The natives are badly off
for food, the seed which they have got from the government not having borne fruit
yet.
Hindenburg is to be in Paris by 1st. April.
25 February 1918
There is a lot of thunder about tonight & the sky promises a lot of rain. There is no
news yet of us going.
26 February 1918
Clouds heavy in the sky today: they seem to be gathering for rain. This evening
orders came to pack off to Songia at once, so I understand we are leaving tomorrow
morning. I am sorry to be leaving this place as we are both comfortable & happy and
I don't expect we will move much further than Songia until the rains are over. The
main factor in any position in life, geographical or otherwise, is the mental one.
Heaven is within us.
Captain M. of the Rhodesian Native Regt. takes over command here. He is a type
almost new to me but maybe the outcome of a life spent among an inferior race. He
has a sledge hammer way of arguing, starting with "Of course, you know damn all
about it" He has been in the police service in Southern Rhodesia for a good few
years & has a lot of interesting stories.
The fly affair (hornet?) which I mentioned on the 17th. has been busy in my banda
every day since, adding cell after cell & closing them up. I saw it one day evidently
laying an egg in one. I broke open one cell tonight & found in it besides a small sort
of maggot, a lot of dead or comatose spiders, evidently put there for feeding the
young hornet.
27 February 1918
Moved out of Tunduru at 10a.m. Porters rather scarce & we had to squeeze well to
make them go round. Pretty hot walking. . Had great difficulty in getting the donkeys
along: they absolutely refused at some bamboo bridges & getting them thro' the
water wasn't much easier. The road lay along a series gradual slopes & rapid
descents into stream beds. Pebbles of coarse quartz grit same as I got at Mingoyo
strewn all over the ground. Had to wait a long time for grub after we got into camp at
2p.m. Had it in the open air. Developed a temp. of 102 degrees in the evening so am
just turning in.
28 February 1918
Had a pretty rotten night with the aspirin I took. The road was very varied today: up &
down the whole way & I saw several good exposures of a pebbly grit, which is
evidently the main surface rock of the district. I didn't have a close look at the rock
because I rode a donkey all the way. Carter has four donkeys & gave me one for the
day. We had a lot of trouble with the others as their loads were always coming off,
usually slipping forward on the steep declines or sideways when they trotted. The
only thing is to keep them at the walk. I thought of R.L.S. & his ‘troubles with a
donkey’.
We had breakfast under the greenwood tree, & I felt quite fit for it. However by the
time I got to the village where we had lunch I began to feel seedy. We halted in the
town hall & spread our beds. There was a congregation reciting the Koran in a high
monotone in a hut not far away. We moved on later a few hundred yards & made
camp. My temp. is higher than last night.
March 1918
1 March 1918
A pretty long march today, about 17 miles but I managed it without taking to the
donkeys. We rose a good deal on the day's journey, so that we were a good few
hundred feet up at night. The road consists of an interminable number of up &
downs, which are very tiring. We had breakfast about 8a.m. & lunch at noon in a
deserted shenzi village. A lot of the native huts in this part are built on bamboo piles
so that the living room, which is reached by a ladder is about ten or twelve feet off
the ground. It is probably to guard against wild animals. There are more signs of
native population hereabouts than anywhere I have been, & a lot of maize growing,
but even here the people had all left their village & crops, - why I don't know. The last
stage was a good two hours march to Mgwali's & we thought we were never going to
arrive. The swamp just before reaching camp was fortunately fairly dry. We got in
about 5p.m. I am practically recovered from the fever or whatever I had, but am
thoroughly tired.
2 March 1918
Today's march was a good 18 miles - from Mgwali's to Cliffs' Camp. We have been
climbing slowly nearly all day & have landed in a nicely situated camp on the edge of
a cliff which overlooks a great basin in the plateau. It hasn't been quite so hot today,
as there have been a few clouds about. The bush is getting pretty thin, especially on
the high ground which the path sticks to like a leech. The conformation of the ground
is very peculiar. The path runs along ridges which fall away rapidly on both sides, they have almost been eaten thro' by the heads of the streams. The rock is
everywhere that coarse pebbly grit, more often red than not, & containing pebbles of
quartz & shist.
3 March 1918
Today we have done a little over 17 miles but it didn't seem so long as yesterday as
we did nearly 3 hours before stopping for breakfast. 'Chop' halt s are a matter of
water: there's no good trying to cook where there's no water. Also the road today
was fairly level - very few ups & downs. We are still rising & still on the pebbly grit.
There are a few ranges of hills visible but it isn't often we can get a decent view even
tho' we are so high up. The men are pretty tired & so am I - quite stiff. Jardine has
had a bad leg for several days. Not very much sickness among the men. This should
be pretty healthy country being so high up, but very dry in the dry season. We saw
no signs of natives today. We are in Prior's Camp now. The water isn't very good.
Carter, Cairncross & I are in one banda. Have just had a hot bath.
4 March 1918
Rather cold during the night & this morning when I went out the porters were huddled
over the embers of last night's fire. There was a heavy mist which wasn't thoroughly
dissipated until after 9a.m. I rode a donkey most of the morning as I am feeling
rather tired. The path is on the whole still rising, and we had several extensive views
both to North & South, of endless valleys and ridges all thickly bushed with the
exception occasionally of grassy valley bottoms. A large 'tripartite' hill to the South
looks rather like Donery, - flat topped. We had breakfast about 9.30 at a small
stream where the water wasn't too good. We had some difficulty in persuading the
donkeys across it. We got into camp here about 2p.m. after rather a wearisome
march - mainly because we expected to get in sooner. I have had a good rest this
afternoon & hope to be all right for foot-slogging it tomorrow. Today's march was 17
miles. We are rather troubled here with horse-flies & ticks.
5 March 1918
Heavy rain soon after leaving camp & we got wet about the legs: ground swampy in
places. It cleared up after an hour & we had breakfast in comfort. We have come into
fairly hilly country now: the latter part of the road was of the nature of a switch back,
We are camped now at the foot of a long decline, with a stream just below us & hills
rising on all sides. I think from the configuration of the hills & the fragments of quartz
& schist lying about that we have got into the schistose country again. I am feeling
very comfortable after a short sleep & a bath.
6 March 1918
We passed thro' fairly hilly country today, with many villages, some of them deserted
but mostly inhabited. The houses are clustered irregularly among the maize fields, &
the path winds round & between them in a most inconsequent manner. The villages
stand in clearings which have usually been made by destroying the trees with fire killing them so that they stand bare & leafless in the maize fields. The natives
cultivate pumpkins, tomatoes, cucumber & these small tomatoes. The country here
is well watered, at least just now, & probably always has a good supply. We were
continually going down into steep valleys crossing shaky bamboo bridges &
clambering up the other side. We had an open view several times and got glimpses
of high hills on all sides. We are now among schistose rocks again & there is a
tremendous lot of quartz about. We got into camp about 12.30p.m. and are having a
good slack. The camp is nicely situated on rising ground below the last range which
separates us from Songia. We should be there by noon tomorrow. I hope there is a
mail for me.
7 March 1918
We had a pleasant march most of the way today altho' we were later in getting into
Songia than we expected. The road was very stiff where it crosses the range of hills
& must have been killing work for the porters. We halted on the top and had a very
wide view over the country we have been traversing for the last two days. Then we
crossed the watershed & saw the hills stretching away to the west towards Lake
Nyassa - which of course was invisible, and to the north the flatter ground on which
Songia stands. We got in here at 12.30. Songia boma stands on a low swelling piece
of ground and is separated from our camp by a shallow valley. We found on arriving
that no bandas were ready for us or the men & had to bivouack. To add to the
general atmosphere of cheerfulness it began to rain very heavily. We were invited
into No.2 Coy. Mess where we had a good lunch, with green peas & most splendid
bread. The rain has gone off now & things have dried up a bit. Brown I found just
recovering from a bad bout of fever. There is no mail here but eight bags are
expected tomorrow. Surely there will be something in it for me.
8 March 1918
A day of rest for us, but beyond being allowed to lie in bed till 8a.m.there wasn't
much rest about it. The remainder of the day we spent laying out the new company
lines. We have also marked out a mess banda and huts for ourselves. The mail has
come & been distributed and not a scrape of any sort for me. I don't understand it:
but some of the officers had letters today which were written almost a year ago. In
the face of that I can't grouse. There are different rumours as to what we are to do.
The general belief seems to be that we are going down to Zomba & Blantyre to do
garrison duty, with a possibility of Palestine or Mesopot. In that case, everyone is
agreed, it will be for the lines of communicn. as the askaris wouldn't stand shellfire.
We have had one or two sharp showers today & heavy thunderclouds have been
passing at intervals. We have a splendid view over the plains to the S.W. and away
to ridges of hills which rise behind each other as far as you can see.
9 March 1918
The building of the bandas which was carried on today was interrupted a good deal
by rain. It is raining very heavily just now, so I am taking the opportunity to write up
my diary.
As regards the geology of the ground we have passed over, I think, broadly, it
consists of a basis of metamorphic rocks - biotite schist, augen-gneiss etc, into which
there have been intruded batholiths of granite - e.g. round Massassi & probably in
this part too. On top of these metamorphic rocks have been laid down coarse
sandstone & grits usually rich in iron, and occasionally hard quartzose sandstones.
The whole has then been elevated to form a plateau which slopes up gradually from
the coast. I think the sandstone I found at Mingoyo is part & parcel of the same
deposits as I got between here and Tunduru. They are about identical lithologically.
The big elevated reef behind Lindi shows that there has been a good deal of
elevation recently I think, as it isn't much eroded. Perhaps elevation is still going on. I
have seen practically no trace of any minerals of commercial value but I have been
able only to look at chips on the road. I never had enough energy to leave camp on a
geologising expedition.
We are about 5000 ft. above sea level here. The last part of the safari on the 7th.
was over some pretty hilly ground, especially at one point where the climb was
nearly vertical. Looking back there is little trace of hills in that direction so we must
be in a sort of elevated basin here. The night s are pretty cold. We are just about the
same altitude and longtitude as Nairobi. Still, it doesn't seem to be very healthy.
There is a good deal of blackwater fever about. A good number of the officers have
been down with ordinary fever. It seems that once you get fever into your system it
only requires a chill to bring it out, so that you can get it without being bitten by a
mosquito at a recent date. I don't know how long the 'poison' is potent but I should
think there must be a limit.
10 March 1918
Had breakfast in bed this morning and didn't get up until 10.30. I usually feel
lackadaisacal after lying in that way & have done so today, & had to fight against the
constitutional melancholy. I wrote home today but found nothing much to say. I have
been made Mess President for the month as Moult has resigned. I know I'll be no
good at the job but as usual I am very keen to begin with. One thing I do aim at is
punctuality because I can't stand waiting for my own food & for that reason alone am
not sorry to have control of the kitchen for a short time. There is a fair variety of
vegetables to be got here if one takes the trouble to hunt for them. Carter & I had
dinner last night with the M.G. company. The menu was - vegetable soup; roast fowl,
tomatoes, onions, cabbage, baked beans & potatoes: pancakes & jam: strawberries
& ideal milk: pineapple: coffee & very good white flour bread. The ration bread here
is very good indeed. It is much whiter than what we were getting at home when I left.
11 March 1918
We did a couple of parades today. The battalion is going strong on drill just now: the
pace is very hot - about 150 to the minute. The rest of the day we spent on the
bandas. The Mess is going to be rather a toney affair: we bricked in the floor today
and made some chairs our of motor-spirit boxes, The hen house is finished too, &
the hens safely housed in it. Not having wire-netting, a trellis work of thin bamboos
has had to take its place & answers the purpose very well.
12 March 1918
Parades same as yesterday. The company is really very bad at drill. I have started
arm-drill by numbers: it wants some ‘getting down to’. The men are a very poor lot,
without soldierly bearing or instincts and it will take a lot of work to instil them. To
begin with, we have no really first class N.C.O.s & all the junior ones are practically
useless. There is some talk of us going to Palestine but I see no prospects of doing
any good there as long as we are in the present state. The other companies may be
better off.
I ‘flitted’ into my new banda today. It is very small, but cosy: from my seat at the table
I can see across to the hills and all the intervening ground. The view runs to the hazy
blue distance. Vivid blue flashes of lightning are flickering behind the dark clouds
over the hills just now. We have been experimenting with a new cook today, & I think
he will be a great improvement. He has produced some new dishes anyway so we
intend taking him on. We have also taken on a mess boy whose sole duty is to look
after the mess things & overlook the other boys in their work so far as it affects the
mess.
13 March 1918
We have had some rain again today, and it promises to be a stormy night. There is a
good deal of thunder & lightning about and the wind is rising.
There seems to be some truth in the rumour that the battalion is going to another
'theatre' because an officer is being sent down to Lindi to move all the kit that was
left there up to Kilindini. The Company guard was furnished by my platoon today and
was 'returned dirty' because the men were unshaved. There is only one blunt razor
in the company so that shaving is rather a difficult matter. The company paraded by
tribes today, to get a tribal return. The strongest tribes are Nandi, Kavirondo,&
Buganda. This company used to be entirely composed of Nandi but there aren't very
many left. They are rather a poor heartless lot, with the peculiarity of enlarged ear
lobes, like the Kikuyus, which they twist up over the rest of the ear to be out of
harm's way. I am beginning to be able to tell a few of the tribes at sight. The
Kavirondos are the easiest as they are easily the ugliest. The Bugandas are fairly
conspicuous too with their redder skin & protruding chin.
I paid off the old cook today: and sent my orderly & the mess boy Brahmin on a three
days search for vegetables.
14 March 1918
I had rather a disappointment today when I found Asani had pinched some curry
powder from my box & then denied it. He was forced to admit it later and said he had
been afraid to tell me the truth. He had the wind up pretty badly but I think it was
mainly from fear of the kiboko & not shame. I have seen very little of him today. I was
getting very fond of him too & thought he was quite honest but I suppose most of
them pinch things. He has promised to behave better in the future. We are finding it
difficult to live on our rations here - it's giving me something to think about, trying to
make ends meet. Subalterns parade this afternoon under the Adjutant, sweating
about on the parade ground for a solid hour.
We haven't got properly settled down in our new lines yet & I can't compose myself
to write letters. There are always some small things to be done. The cheroni isn't
finished yet, & the finishing touches have to be put to the mess still.
15 March 1918
Have been pretty busy today & had no time for reading of any sort. We have been
trying to get the lines in order, mainly digging trenches thro' the lines to drain any rain
away. It is very difficult to get the men to cut a straight edge even where it is marked
out for them; it is the same at drill, - they can't march straight. Dugmore arrived
today. It took him 2 months to get here from Nairobi, round by Zomba. He brought a
great lot of grub and drink with him, all of which is very welcome because we can
barely live on our rations here. The mess has taken over all the stuff. Dugmore
seems to have had a varied career. His home now is in South Africa where he has
been ostrich farming & poultry keeping, & has done some months on the diamond
fields. He spoke of a deep bore well they put down thro' dolerite, shale, diorite & clay
& got a good supply of water which rose & fell several feet at exactly the same time
as the tide at Cape Town. He was on the Karoo at the time I believe. Cape Town
geologists who were interested put it down to the existence of a very large
subterranean lake which is affected by the moon. I wonder if this is likely. The tide in
any known lake isn't very much: how would sieches[?] bear on the question? I
wonder whether deep bore wells usually show a similar var’n? The moon must have
some effect on the water table because it has a slight effect on the sold ground.
It looks as if there were going to be trouble between the Portuguese & us. They
resent our incursion into their colony & are evidently afraid of our intentions, as Beira
especially would be very useful. When Dugmore landed at Beira with his draft he had
to hand over all his arms & ammunition without a receipt. There have been several
collisions between British officers & N.C.O.’s & the Portuguese police, & our people
haven't always come off best.
There has been a very bad cyclone along the coast of Portuguese East & a lot of
vessels were wrecked. One small steamer coming from Beira to Chinde with home
mails, disappeared entirely. I expect that explains how I've had none since Xmas.
16 March 1918
Early morning parade only today. After that the C.O.'s inspection of the lines for
which there was a lot of sweeping up, & then the C.O. didn't come after all. I got hold
of a few N.F. stamps today, which should soon be rather valuable as their number is
limited. Northey himself is said to have bought most of them up himself so that he
has a small corner in them. The 4d. stamps are already selling in London at £1 & 5/is being offered for the 1d. I have 5 threepenny ones but will probably manage to get
some more. We were very busy all evening getting the dinner ready for tonight. We
had rather a good menu - hors d'oeuvres(bully & olives on toast); giblet soup; roast
chicken; roast potatoes, breadcrumbs, bread sauce, pumpkin & tinned peas; mince
cutlets with potatoes & beans; tinned pears & peaches, ideal milk; pancakes, limes &
sugar; coffee; & about a dozen different kinds of wines. The worst of it was that I had
to go to No. 4 Coy. , being invited there for dinner. I was glad in a way to get away
from the job of seeing the stuff onto the table, and had a nice quiet evening, instead
of being a wet blanket in an uproarious one.
17 March 1918
It was a very uproarious night too. Not being one of the party I was able to retire to
my banda when I wanted, but not to sleep, for the noise. I am orderly officer today
but there is nothing much to do except to rise before 7.30a.m. while every other body
sleeps in till 10 or 11a.m. There are no parades of any sort on Sunday, except
Tamam[?] and Guard mounting, both of which are taken by the Orderly Officer. It
was the first time I had addressed a battalion but it was only to dismiss it. The guard
mounting is rather a stunt of the adjutant's; he has all the men who are checked one
morning, parade the following but one, & every succeeding morning until passed
clean & fit to appear by himself. His standard is ridiculous as it is applied to absolute
unessentials, & he misses the necessary things entirely. Having the job of inspecting
the guard I was able to liberate most of the defaulters. There were several sharp
showers this forenoon but nothing much. We haven't had any rain for several days.
18 March 1918
Had instruction today in the Barr & Stroud. Don't think it would be of much use in this
country, as the field of view is usually very short. We are still on squad & company
drill this week. I don't see much improvement coming. Company drill today was
pretty hopeless; it is impossible to get the guides to march even in an approximately
straight line & some of them know next to nothing about drill. It is the N.C.O.s we will
need to take in hand. We got four new ones, who may be some improvement. The
C.S.M. - Ajab Sidu Salmi has been returned to Bombo. He is under suspicion of
witchcraft but whether that is the cause of his removal or not, I don't know. It seems
that witchcraft is still strong enough to cause the death of men, no doubt due to selfhypnotisation. Capt. Morgan was at dinner tonight (not the adjutant). Feeling slightly
off colour - like the preliminary symptoms of fever.
19 March 1918
Some thunder about today, but not much rain. Bartered a few handfuls of salt for a
basket of potatoes and some mangoes. We are getting any amount of vegetables
here & living like fighting cocks. The cook is a great acquisition and turns things our
very well and punctually.
20 March 1918
Beginning to lose my rag with the platoon: must watch myself. I think they try hard
enough but can't take it in. I think there is perhaps a slight improvement in handling
of arms. There has been quite a cold wind today, but it has fallen now that evening
has come.
21 March 1918
The usual parades today. The company hasn't got together yet at all. The company
drill today was appalling & will always be so until correct commands are given. I think
we are the worst in the battalion, but on the other hand we have the happiest mess no rows or unpleasantness in it. I have started reading Huxley's essays which
Dugmore has lent me. He has some good books with him. We had a heavy
thunderstorm tonight but only got the fringe of it. It passed along the hills in front. The
lightning was very vivid. It is raining now & the mess isn't quite watertight. My banda
fortunately is, thanks to a second lot of grass which I had put on top. Dugmore tells
me that in his native town certain houses which stand on a dolerite reef were
frequently struck by lightning: also that at Embamba bay on lake Nyasa, where there
is a lot of dolerite, there are frequently casualties from lightning. He supposes it to be
due to the iron in the rock.
22 March 1918
Nothing new today. Drill worse if anything. A good deal of rain this evening and still
spitting: fortunately it interrupted our evening parade. Had a humbugging paper on
F.S. Regs. to do this evening.
23 March 1918
Colonel inspected our lines today & said they were the best in the battalion. That
they are so is mainly due to Jardine's energy and fund of ideas, but we all take a little
credit to ourselves. Dugmore & Carter went off this forenoon on a two days' safari for
game. It has been raining practically ever since they left but now (9.30p.m.) the
moon has come thro' & it is a fair night. Capt. Morgan (No. 2 Coy.) & Dodds have
been in to dinner tonight, & are still there playing bridge with Jardine & Moult:
consequently I have been able to retire.
An order was published today that no more applications for transfer to home units or
to other corps would be entertained, & that officers wd. probably be required to serve
for 6 months after declaration of a general peace.
24 March 1918
I have been orderly officer again today but have had a pleasant day for all that. I
rather like having to be up about 7a.m. & to be prevented from 'hogging' all morning
in bed. I read some of Emerson's Essays today - on 'Character', & 'Books' and
enjoyed them far more than I had expected. I tried to read them once long ago
before I was ready for them, & that I believe is the reason I never tried them since.
His three rules for reading are:-1. Never read a book that is not a year old: 2. Never
read any but famed books: 3. Never read any but what you like. I think the last rule is
the most sensible: apply it to boys & it includes all the books of adventure that Bill
MacLaren used to refuse us: it also brings in penny dreadfuls. It isn't an absolutely
correct rule tho' because it doesn't allow for the correction of bad taste.
I meant to do some writing this evening but as usual things came in the way. Carter
& Dugmore came back just after tea without any bag, but having seen lion & eland?
spoor and had a shot at a water buck..
We are very happy here and I am keen on the work. The feeling of depression which
used to humbug me has practically disappeared.
25 March 1918
I had a day in bed today, having strained a tendon or something in my ankle.
Consequently I read a good deal and wrote a couple of letters. I wonder whether
Huxley's criticism of Darwin's theory has been answered yet or not - that altho' you
can match most phenomena of nature by selective breeding you can't - or at least
haven't yet done it - produce two forms from the same stock who will be sterile or
whose hybrids will be sterile.
There was a heavy thunderstorm this afternoon, lasting for a full couple of hours &
with a lot of rain. There is no word now of us moving. It is rumoured that the
battalions with which we were to have been brigaded for Palestine have gone into
Portuguese East Africa after von Lettow. If that is true we may be here for some
time.
26 March 1918
Have had another day off & spent most of it reading. News arrived tonight of the big
German offensive in France. "The 51st. Div. made a most gallant fight near
Bapaume-Cambrai road against repeated attacks." We are all very anxious about the
result but feel confident we will pull thro' all right. I wonder how the 5th. fared and
whether David was in it, but it's no use speculating.
27 March 1918
There was a short Reuters tonight: news so far good. I don't believe it does any good
to pray for the safety of individuals, but we can pray that they be given courage,
endurance & faith. The strain that must be on parents & wifes must be tremendous. I
didn't appreciate it until now.
I did parades today: we are doing musketry now, but there is no apparatus. There is
no local news, nor any new rumours as to moving. The Colonel has a scheme for
sending an officer with about 15 men out into the bush for ten days or so at a time,
so as to give us practice. Young set off today. This doesn't look like an early shift.
The C.O. is busy making a map of the district & I suppose intends using these
officers' road reports. We have been trying to buy hens & eggs but altho' we sent
several parties in different directions, laden with salt, they have so far come back
empty handed. Either there are no hens about, or the natives won't part with them.
28 March 1918
David's birthday: wonder how he is spending it. There is very little news today mostly of a bombastic tone, & nothing very definite in it.
A good deal of thunder & lightning tonight. We have a storm of some sort nearly
every day but it seldom lasts more than a couple of hours. The rain is not
exceptionally heavy.
29 March 1918
No. 2 Coy. left for Tunduru this forenoon, presumably to relieve the Rhodesians: so it
seems that we are to be here for some time. I am glad it isn't No.3 who have to go
back: the rivers & marshes will be much worse now, and there is almost a certainty
of rain every day. We had more thunder & lightning today. Every morning there is a
thick bank of mist in the valley beyond Songia, out of which the tops of the lower hills
just emerge. As the morning wears on the mist slowly rises, in a level sheet. There
isn't enough wind to dissipate it. There are to be no more parades, from 11a.m. this
morning until 7a.m. Monday - this being Easter week-end. There has been little news
today, but what there was, was good. The German offensive has begun to slacken,
& they haven't managed to drive their wedge in between us & the French, which
seems to have been their idea.
30 March 1918
The Germans have got back from us all the ground we gained since July 1916 in the
Somme district. Our line is still intact. The Huns are said to be losing very heavily: we
must be doing so too. It is queer to think of the old familiar places round about Albert
over-run once more by the Huns: Amiens will be wondering if there is to be a second
occupation & will know that it won't be such a peaceful one this time. Irma will be
anxious about her cottage & Gabrielle about her estaminet. And meanwhile I am
here absolutely out of it, as much as if I had a job in the War Office at home. If they
are to do away with all exemptions at home, Bob will likely be called up soon, if he
hasn't been already. It struck me today, when thinking how I was out of it here, that
he has given up more than any of us - first his business and then the army, & without
making any song about it. If he goes, Bessie will have to stay at home, or else shut
the shop for the time being. In any case it must be a very anxious time, & I am
helpless to do any good. However I feel that whatever happens will be for the best.
The more we suffer, the more good will we get in return.
I haven't put in a very useful day today, being too unsettled. It is very difficult to write
- even home. Things must be in such a different condition by the time a letter
reaches there. I walked this forenoon to the top of a small hill north of the camp &
had a very fine view. The plateau on which Songia stands stretches very level away
to the N. & NNE. To the N.W. & W. it is bounded by line after line of hills more or less
rocky, the Southern end I believe of the Livingstone Mountains. The hill I was on is
composed of gneiss, with acid veins running along the foliation planes.
I had the interesting experience of being stung by a bee, on the roof of my mouth fortunately high up, so that tho' I had the wind up for a bit, it didn't swell much. We
are rather humbugged by bees in the Mess just now: they come in after the sugar,
dates & raisins.
31 March 1918
I didn't get up until noon today, but read in bed. It is rather comfortless when the wind
is from the S.W. & blowing straight into our bandas. I tried to write some letters in the
afternoon but with very little success. Everything here seems so trivial in the face of
what is going on in France. There hasn't been very much news today: the AngloFrench reserves are expected to put in an appearance soon & it is only to be hoped
that they will be able to relieve the pressure.
There was a big Ngoma in the lines tonight. The Acholi and Kavirondo each had a
dance going for hours, to the accompaniment of a couple of tom-toms. The dances
are not pretty. The performers move slowly round in a circle clapping their hands or
beating tin cans, & stamping their feet in perfect rhythm, singing a sort of chant at the
same time and making stiff & rather wonderful movements with their shoulders &
trunks. The Kavirondo dance was much more vigorous than the other, more of a war
dance it seemed seeing the men in this barbarous state, rushing about with sticks, &
bayonets & pangas made me wonder that we ever get them to stand steady on
parade at all. The African mind is a strange thing & not easily known.
April 1918
1 April 1918
Orderly officer today. Very cloudy & a lot of drizzly rain: coldish. Got very little
reading done today, between going the rounds, and bricking in the entrance to my
hut. Jardine got rid of Issa, who has been doing mess boy for a week or two. He
didn't like his face, so he sent him away at a moment's notice. It is characteristic of
him to make decisions quickly & do the thing at once. We very seldom see the C.O.
He was down watching us drill this afternoon. As a rule he is reading, or drawing
maps in his banda. He has regular student shoulders, & is a bit of a recluse.
MacCunn went to hospital yesterday with jaundice which is a common concomitant
of fever, so I may expect it if I get badly laid up. Dugmore is in bed again tonight with
fever.
2 April 1918
I sent in application for increase of pay today: having been commissioned 3 years I
am entitled to an extra £25 a year. There was a lecture today by the adjutant on
company drill. Most of the Chelsea stunts are to be washed out which is perhaps just
as well. It is difficult to get uniformity. I am taking the N.C.O.s in "fire orders" but find
it difficult to get them to understand the finger-breadth method. They say they
understand it all right & then go and make the most hopeless mistakes. Asani has
burnt his arm: the new skin is which is coming on is pinky, with large black spots the pigment glands probably. He says that inside the black skin is a white one. He is
black because "it's an order of God". I asked him about God. His idea seems to be
that God is up above, & has a hot body (the sun?). He was rather under the
impression that He is black. He is the same person as "Shaitani": he sends the rain
to make things grow. He doesn't know any way of propitiating Him - if rain doesn't
come for instance.
3 April 1918
Off colour today, but don't know whether it is fever, the sun, or just a chill. Shivering,
sore head & body. Had to take to bed after lunch & by taking a lot of aspirin had a
good sweat. C.O. sent for me in the forenoon. He wants me to go out on patrol
tomorrow to the Rovuma, at Makalogi, & beyond. Hope I'm all right by tomorrow
morning, as this is just the sort of thing I'm wanting.
4 April 1918
Very much better today, & would have been fit to go, but the C.O. has given me two
days to get quite better. Quite deaf with the quinine I have taken, & my eyes are bad
too: must have taken too much.
Have written to a firm in Johannesburg - J.C. Juta - for some books & have sent
them a cheque for 20 rupees. I have asked for fairly heavy stuff, as I find that I don't
want to read light novels here. Whether it is just a passing mood or not I'm not quite
sure.
5 April 1918
Have done very little today. Rheumatic pains in arms, legs & back which I thought
were perhaps the symptoms of another attack of fever but I understand how that
they often follow it. Cairncross is down with fever again. Brown is going out to build
some bridges on the Lindi road tomorrow, so I may have his company for a part of
the road. I have just been getting a few things ready , written the kids at Crossgates
& sent the 3rd. film to Nairobi.
6 April 1918
After a lot of running about, I got away from camp about 3p.m. with my safari of 17
askaris & 40 porters. There was a good deal to be thought about but I am always
slow at a thing like that. I get obsessed by details & can never do things in the right
order. Also I try to do everything & go everywhere myself instead of sending chits &
making other people do it. I have twenty days rations and enough calico to do 5 days
more. That should see me thro', the C.O. says. I have a guide for the first part of the
road. He is armed with a nasty looking spear & is not unpicturesque: he tried a short
cut & nearly lost himself in the first mile. I am going to have no more of them. We
halted about 5.30 at a good stream & made camp. I have had a grass hut built &
intend doing so every day as it is worth the trouble if it keeps me fit: besides, the
trouble isn't mine. I have left Asami behind as his feet aren't very good & he gets
tired easily. I have 17 chosen men from the Coy. But whether they are well chosen
or not remains to be seen. Willie is doing my cooking for me. I have just had a bully
beef dinner & feel replete enough, but I can see that rations are going to be a bit of a
problem - mine at least. It will depend on what I can get from the country but as
regards jam & milk I will need to go very cannily.
7 April 1918
I didn't know till just now that this is Sunday. We got away shortly after 6a.m. & didn't
get into camp until 10, altho' we didn't come far. We are sleeping tonight in the same
camp as on the 6th, March . I interviewed three of the headmen here which is part of
my job, questioned them as to the crops etc. & arranged for destroying them or
hiding the grain that has been brought in, in the case of the Huns coming north
again. It is most unlikely that they will come, at least in this direction. There isn't a
great amount of food at the present time, but the maize is about half of it ready: there
is plenty pumpkins and tomatoes. No goats or fowls at all. Also nearly all the able
bodied men have been taken for porters so that the women & the old men alone are
left. The weather has been fine today - rather misty & cold early in the forenoon, but
later just warm enough to be nice. Handasyde & Grant came into camp in the
evening, en route for Tunduru. I managed to increase my milk & jam supply by one
tin of each. Funny that Grant should know Mary Cairns & Handasyde - Connie
Walker!
8 April 1918
Have had a very long day. Started before 6a.m. & followed a track thro' the
Mkokomo Mts. to Mlimamo where we are sleeping tonight. After five hours and a half
on the road I had to stop & let the men feed & feed myself too. Another couple of
hours brought us here. The porters were very slow but the track is bad & as a rule
could go only in single file. That meant losing double time at all obstacles. Raining
very frequently, & Scotch mist on the higher parts. Had just got my banda made
when the rain set in & it looks like a night of it. Afraid we'll have more sick tomorrow:
only 3 porters bad so far. Not much food to be had here altho' for our needs there
are plenty. Bought 1 1/2 doz eggs & got some Mohindi & pumpkin for the men.
9 April 1918
Left Mlimamo shortly before 7a.m. It was a night of rain & I don't think either the
porters or the askaris got much sleep which considering the heavy day they had,
was rather unfortunate. We got to the Likonde after an hour's march & found it up &
still rising. The bridge had been half washed away and it was only with the greatest
difficulty that we got the porters & loads across. The water was 8 - 10 feet deep & a
muddy bottom. We had to extemporise a bridge of sorts with bamboos & trees but
even this platform was often waist deep below the surface & had to be sorted several
times. Thanks to the energy of two of the corporals & some Kavirondos I had with
me, we got everything over safely & with only a ducking for two or three porters. It
took us 4 hours to get everything over. Standing that long in wet clothes, plashing
feet & a steady drizzle nearly the whole time can't have done any of us any good.
There are seven porters sick today altho' they hadn't a heavy day as they sat and
watched the askaris do all the work. After everything was across I went on ahead
with the guide, in my shirt tails with my shorts hanging out behind on a stick to dry.
We got to Ligera after 2 1/2 hours marching - about 2.30. It seems rather a populous
place - perhaps 40 men, & a good many shambas. I got enough Mohindi (maize),
beans & pumpkin off the chief to feed all the men for 3 yards of calico. Later on he
brought in a fine big water melon for me. The kids are running about already in the
white cloth & looking quite clean: it hides their grotesque stomachs anyway. It has
cleared up this evening for a good thing altho' everybody is safely housed, & I have
been able to get my bedding & clothes dried.
10 April 1918
From Ligera to Msamo's today - about 12 miles. Not bad going until we got into the
valley of the Lukimwa which is flat & swampy. There are three villages within about 3
miles. Good deal of Mohindi & Matawa. I was able to feed the men pretty well on 6
yards of cloth, & got some native tobacco for them at the same time. I am very glad
that the country isn't going to be laid waste as it would mean chaos for these poor
people for this year & next. There was a good deal of rain in the forenoon but dried
up nicely later on. Good camp just outside of shambas.
11 April 1918
Had a very short march today - not much over 10 miles from Msamo's to
Mwangata's. We would have gone further but have had to wait until we can get a
canoe built to take us over the Lukimwa. The Jumbe Chikwawa has sent along some
of his men to do the job but they were late in arriving. The shambas don't seem very
flourishing here, & the people rather poor. I saw a man today with bark clothing.
They take the bark of the tree & put it in the river & beat & twist it until it gets soft &
pliable. He says it will only last three days in the bush. Mwangata himself is a smith
& we found him making spear heads. They get the iron from spades or hoes &
fashion it into spears. He can make one a day, & sell it for a rupee. He has rather a
cute idea for bellows. There is a mixture of Ungonis & Yaos in the Lukimwa &
Nyamahoca valleys. The latter seem to be rather backward & cultivate practically
Mohindi only. Chikwawa is an alert little man in white shirt, khaki tunic & sun helmet.
He seemed rather upset about his men being late. My guide is a good chap & plies
the Bwana mkubwa stunt very consistently. We had had practically no rain today.
12 April 1918
Crossed the Lukimwa by canoe this morning: took us nearly 2 hours. Not so bad as
the Likonde, anyway. Track very difficult to follow, & even Mwangata himself who
was guiding us was occasionally in difficulties. Plenty elephant & game spoors.
Didn't get a shot. Had breakfast 1p.m. at a small stream & pushed on for another 1
1/2 hours. Made camp in the bush: no water but had brought enough for a wash &
dinner.
13 April 1918
Arrived Halifa's this forenoon. Busy writing up reports for Songia. Also arranging for
crossing Rovuma tomorrow. Took a photo of Mwangata making fire with two pieces
of stick.. Also one of Halifa & his minions bartering vegetables for cloth.
14 April 1918
We got safely across the Rovuma this morning. It is about 100 ft. wide at Halifa's & a
fair current running. We got over in a couple of bark canoes, which are perfectly safe
& not the flimsy things I had expected. They are made rather uncouthly out of one
long piece of bark, kept apart by bamboos & pegged at each end. There is no path
leading up from this side to the main road to Makalogi so we have been making our
way thro' the bush most of the morning - rather warm & tiring work, altho' the bush is
mostly very open, and quite like an English park in places. There have been plenty
traces of game and I had a shot coming along at a barapi, whatever that is. It had a
pair of very fine horns. I hit it the first shot & had 4 rounds rapid as it crossed our
front but didn't stop it. After getting into camp I went out with the guide but with no
luck. I have sent a couple of ascaris down to Bwana Issa's on the N. side of Rovuma
to arrange for a canoe to take us back. I believe it will take us 5 days to get to
Makalogi's. I'll have to wait there at least 6 days & have only 11 days rations, so
must supplement them somehow. Halifa's people have been on the river now for 6
years & haven't learnt to catch fish yet., altho' he says there are plenty in it. They are
living at present on dry maize, crushing enough just for their daily wants. They have
very little else: their diet must be very circumscribed. Halifa himself has some skin
trouble for which I gave him some Potass. Permang., Iodoform & Boracic lint, with
copious instructions. He seems rather a decent person altho' not above begging for
salt. He first of all brought me a water—lemon on & then some tomatoes: I didn't see
what he was on for.
It is a perfect night tonight. I have a big fire going. The moon is in the first quarter,
not a cloud in the sky. I am enjoying being by myself very much.
15 April 1918
Marched for 5½ hours today thro' very dry country: a few water holes at first & plenty
signs of game: later, all water courses, dried up, vegetation rather thorny, but a few
palms amongst it, & few traces of game except elephant: earlier in the morning we
saw spoor of lion, & leopard as well as different kinds of small game & hartebeest. I
was very glad to get into camp, & so were the porters, the roughness of the path
being bad on their feet. The boy who is guiding us doesn't no[sic] much about the
place, but we are on a cut road so will have no difficulty. Weather still very good:
very warm in the middle of the day.
16 April 1918
We crossed the Lutambila R. an hour out of camp this morning. There is about 9
inches of water in it, & all the other streambeds were dry until we came near the
Legolongo Hills. I shot a dik-dik on the way along. He was standing on the top of a
rock, watching us. I thought I missed him but on going up we found some hairs, &
about 30 yards away traces of blood. It wasn't easy tracking her as the foot prints are
very faint. We came on her after about half an hour & a second shot laid her out. The
Nubian corporal immediately dashed up & cut her throat, according to custom. We
got to Malakita's village at 12.30. It isn't a very big place & most of the men are away
as porters. They cultivate maize only & it's ready now: they are planting a second
crop. Some of the magnates of the place turned out in full paraphernalia, one of
them in a Hussar's dress tunic which might have done duty at a fancy dress ball in
Lisbon or Madrid but I wonder how it came here. I managed to buy some maize &
flour for the men, as well as a plateful of fish & a dozen eggs for myself. I have just
had a fish supper & very good too. The fish are caught in the river here: they are
about the size of gillocks & not oppressed by too many bones. I tried round about for
more game in the evening, but beyond falling into the river nothing exciting
happened. I took a couple of photos of the assembled villagers. The village is
situated at the foot of the Ligarongo hills; plenty of water - as I found.
17 April 1918
Very heavy rain during the night so the grass was hung with more than dew this
morning. Of course we had a lot more long grass to go thro' than ever before &
everybody got pretty wet. However the sun came up pretty hot and dried us. One of
the porters bolted at the second halt - this is his second time & if I get him we'll wish
he had carried his load. The march was mostly thro' open parkland & not a bit stiff.
We got to Mwaga at 11 a.m. in spite of the delay with the runaway. The crossing was
managed in a bark canoe - poled this time, not paddled. The river (the Luchringo)
isn't very deep here - about 6 feet - but has a fair current and also a good supply of
hippos & crocodiles which come up from the Rovuma. I had a shot at one of the
former this afternoon but as he was showing only a square foot of nose at the time I
couldn't have done him much harm if I hit him, which I doubt. He was right in the
middle of the river & came up to snort about every 3 minutes. They come ashore
between 7p.m. & 3a.m. & eat grass. We got their spoor today up in the hills a couple
of miles away from the river. I am living tonight in a banda built by a European who
stayed here for some time last month. We are all pretty tired I think, at least I am, but
as we are behind time I can't afford to take a day off as I would like to.
18 April 1918
Had a lie in this morning after starting off 3 patrols, one up the Luchringo, one down
to get in touch with Bwana Issa's and one out towards the Oizulu Hills. In the
forenoon I got hold of the jumbe and lugged him up to the top of a hill on the other
side of the river & took compass bearings on all the objects he could identify. We
had a splendid view of the Luchringo valley & the country to the S.E. It is rather flat
for the most part but studded with abrupt rocky excresences from hillocks up to
mountains which give a variety to the landscape which it wouldn't otherwise have.
We made a detour on our way back, looking for game & hippos, but saw none. I
spent the rest of the day round about my bed & wrote up the road report etc. since
leaving Halifa's. I managed to get a good deal of information out of the natives,
considering my Swahili, the guide usually acting as interpreter. Only I'm not very sure
how much reliance can be put on it. They have a very good sense of direction but
very little of time, especially such as is kept by a watch. They can understand a
sketch map on the sand pretty well & that's how I get most of the information I want.
Mwaga has been trying to wheedle my shorts off me and parading his poverty, but I
have had to refuse him. I am certainly getting a lot of use out of him & his men but I
don't see how I can be expected to pay for services rendered to the Government out
of my private wardrobe.
19 April 1918
Had another long lie this morning but got most of a letter home written before
breakfast. Dressed about 9.30 & started off for Kumimasuba's village at a great rate
as the idea had just occurred to me. We got there in 2 hours, after stiff walking. The
assembled male element of the village was discussing the next meal in the village
soup-kitchen. This is a Myao village. I got the jumbe to start his women crushing the
mohindi & went and interviewed his next neighbour Mperakamoyo, on the other side
of the river. This is a very pleasant featured individual and one of the decentest
jumbes I have seen so far. He didn't ask for my trousers or for salt. I got about 1/2 a
sackful of meal from Kumimasuba's people, & saw some of the women making straw
matting, which they pleat very neatly. The people here aren't too badly off for food if
it weren't that they have taken on their hands the fugitives from lower down the river
who fled on the approach of the Huns. I came back at the same rate & felt pretty stiff
by the time we reached camp. There seems to be a good deal of game here but we
can't get onto it. The only remaining corporal was out twice today without seeing any
& we only frightened one on our way home, without getting a shot. The runaway
porter was bro't in today. We have him safely trussed up.
20 April 1918
Left Mwaga's today, himself guiding us, half under compulsion & half in the hope of
backsheesh. Shot a 'swara' on the way down - thro' the heart first time. Got in here
before noon (Makalogi) & had a look at the boma where the Portuguese ran way and
left for the Germans to burn. Mwaga lived here then too, and he & his fled up the
river to their present village. Have been writing up reports again, a thing I don't like. I
can't condense. It's a book I have written, not a report.
21 April 1918
A night of rain & didn't get under way till 7.30. Feeling seedy today, like fever coming
on. Took us 4 hrs. to reach Bwana Issa's. very swampy bad piece of country:
marched in rainproof, without puttees or socks: uncomfortable. Rain kept off till we
got into camp. Fine night now. Hippos snorting near at hand. Just finished reports
etc, & letter for home.
22 April 1918
The days I have nothing to do are the days I feel like doing least. Rather washed out
today: lay on my bed and read bits of half a dozen different books, but feel like
nothing serious. Some of the men have been out after game but got nothing, altho'
there is a good deal hereabouts. There were some baboons in the trees who
followed me as I took a short stroll. They were pretty bold and I didn't test them to
see how near I could get to them as I believe they are apt to be nasty. Sent a patrol
down to the Usanyando River & I hope they find it unfordable as I said it was, in my
report. They expect to be back here tonight. Also sent 3 porters back to Songia with
my report.
23 April 1918
The Usanyando turned out fordable after all! Had another very slack day, but got the
bulk of the porters & loads & all the ascaris over to the other side in the afternoon.
Went out after tea & hit another swara. Followed him for a couple of hours by blood
& footmarks but tho' we came up with him once or twice, couldn't get a shot & lost
him near camp. Will try to pick him up in the morning. I am sleeping on the south
side of Rovuma tonight, moving over early tomorrow. Juma Fayalla has come [not]
back with the Salamand patrol but he is certain to be tomorrow.
24 April 1918
We got that swara this morning but the vultures had been there before us, & there
was only skin and bone left. Didn't get a shot altho' we saw some more swara & a
baropi (sable antelope). Got the remainder of the safari across the river this morning.
When I arrived I found they had built me a nice little hut which made me sorry I
wasn't going to stay more than one night. In fact I didn't intend to stay that even but
Juma Fayalla didn't arrive until 5 o'clock. According to himself he has been walking
ever since he left, but I am inclined to think he is exaggerating. I find it rather difficult
to get much out of him. The people here are very badly off for food, in fact they are
bordering on famine from their own accounts & living to a certain extent on roots dug
up in the woods. Still I see no great evidence of starvation on the stomachs of the
population.
I am feeling all right again & ready for the road.
25 April 1918
Got away at dawn this morning: dull & good for marching. Grass pretty long in places
but not so bad as south of the Rovuma. & as there had been neither heavy dew nor
rain it wasn't very wetting. We have one of Halifa's men to guide us but he doesn't
know the local features here. However it is surprising how little these people
sometimes know of their own district. Very few of Issa's people know the name of the
big hill which stands just behind their village. My own guide is the most knowing of all
the people we have come across and very clever in picking up my own, often
obscure meaning, & interpreting it to others.
We reached Matanda at 12 noon - a small stream nearly dry, & altho' it was early I
stopped for the day as I can't do the journey to Halifa's any quicker by going further
today. We climbed a small hill on the way along and had a last look at Makarogi and
the Luchringo valley. Also took bearings on a number of points. It is a lovely evening
now: the sun is just on a level with the tops of the trees & sending "her last rays
adown the little glen". I have been thinking again today of what to do after the war.
The sooner I convince myself that I am not a Darwin or a Geikie the better, & make
up my mind to start low down - the lower the better so long as I get a living. I am
reading Emerson's Essays which are partly responsible for my state of mind but I
hope it will be an enduring one especially as regards Darwin etc. also half way thro'
"The Romany Life".
26 April 1918
Another good marching day followed by a splendid evening with a full moon. Arrived
at Liunga River after 4 1/2 hours: we are getting along pretty well and according to
the map covering tremendous distances. I think there is something wrong with the
map. Have been reading Emerson today, on "Self-Reliance" which I have so much
need of, as I think too much of other people's opinions. Henceforth I will try to think
more of my own and feel tonight in doing so as if fetters had dropped off.
I don't know how the niggers get along on one meal a day. I sometimes come down
to a couple, with a cup of tea in the morning but that's about my limit. They certainly
don't live to eat. And it's always the same - rice & salt, yet they eat it with a distinct
relish. If our civilisation has provided us with a more varied menu it has also lost us
the power of living on a simple diet.
27 April 1918
Did over 6hrs. marching today & feel tired now. Reached the Litiki River. Shd. be at
Halifa's early tomorrow forenoon. Country rather monotonous here but not difficult.
Suffering from itchiness of hands & face - Willie says due to rubbing of the grass on
the skin when wet with perspiration. Quite possible. Was afraid I had transferred
some of the Dobie's itch which I have had for a month or so.
28 April 1918
Got into Halifa's about 9.30 & found Dugmore & Hawkins there. The former going to
form a post at Makalogi & the latter come yesterday from Carter, at Likerume. The
company is at Namahoka where we go tomorrow. Had food with them, & very glad of
a change of diet. They have not much news of France except that the Boche is still
pushing. Feeling rather depressed today at the thought of the time they must be
having at home.
29 April 1918
Left Halifa's shortly after 6a.m. with Hawkins. Reached Lukimwa about 2p.m. having
halted for an hour for breakfast. When coming from Mwangata's I had cut into this
path just an hour from this crossing place. The river is fordable here now but I don't
think it would be when I came down. Met safari of porters going down with rations for
Carter & Dugmore. Had a decent dinner tonight - curried buck & a chicken.
30 April 1918
Crossed the Lukimwa about 6.30 this morning carrying my clothes on my head.
Arrived in camp about 1p.m. just in nice time for lunch. Found four November letters
from home & Crossgates waiting me & very glad to get them. Jardine has cleared a
good space in the bush for the camp, & has the women of the neighbourhood
clearing the grass & shrubs. There is a substantial mess, & our huts have been
practically finished tonight. Jardine has also been busy clearing hilltops so as to get
bearings on different points, & be able to make accurate maps: also working at
roads, bridges etc.
May 1918
1 May 1918
Three years today since the 5th. went to France & I said goodbye to so many good
friends. Did very little besides get banda set in order: also wrote Bessie.
2 May 1918
Jardine wants a road blazed straight from the camp here to the ford on the Lukimwa
river. Sgt. Robertson went down there yesterday to make bridge & to send back
bearing on hill near our camp. As the runner didn’t turn up by lunch time I started off
myself, to work from the ford to the camp. Arrived here before 6p.m. so that in actual
marching dist. is just about 4 hours. Had a halt for tea on the way. Was surprised to
find the bearing of our beacon hill only 26o as it is 25o from camp, so that the
bearings practically coincide.
3 May 1918
Have had a very hard day blazing this blasted trail. Started off at 6a.m. & was soon
soaking with the heavy dew. The way I worked was to take a bearing & march on an
object in line with it, the men coming behind & blazing the trees as I told them. It is a
pretty slow process where the bush is thick. Stopped for breakfast and lunch as it
was evident it would be an all-day job. Got rather a fright at one point, when I sent
Willie up a tree to see the direction of the beacon hill. He picked up the wrong hill & I
of course found I was miles out. However on climbing up myself I saw that we were
dead right. Willie climbs like a monkey. After crossing the Namahoka the men were
so tired that I decided to camp for the night & finish the job in the morning. It was
then close on 5p.m. & I didn’t think we could get in before dark. Two very charming
kids have come up from the shamba in the valley below, one of them especially with
such a fine smile that I wish I could get a photo of him. They were wearing bark cloth
which they say may last for a month.
4 May 1918
We got into camp shortly after 9 this morning, and struck it almost plumb: I was very
satisfied with the result. The jumbe’s people got started on it at once, & have cleared
about a mile of the road. Jardine seems to expect that it will run absolutely dead
straight but that is impossible as we couldn’t always get trees in the correct line. He
is very efficient at this sort of job himself & looks for a high standard. I give him my
best which is all I can do, but sometimes I find my best isn’t very good. I have
slacked all day since I came in, feeling a bit stiff. Spent the afternoon reading one of
L.T. Meade’s morbid productions. Hawkins goes out tomorrow to try to establish a
helio station N.W. of the Likonde, to get in touch with Songia and Sassawara. He has
a very hearty laugh & it is good to be beside him. The cook dished up a fowl at lunch
today, which was meant for tonight’s dinner, so Jardine reduced his pay by half. I
suppose he did it in the hopes that he would clear out, because they are fed up with
him now.
5 May 1918
Breakfast in bed. Had a look at the women working on the new road this forenoon.
They work pretty hard, with their kiddies strapped onto their backs, & getting bumped
about as the mother stoops and works the hoe. Climbed the beacon hill in the
afternoon & took some bearings. A very pleasant evening. I am usually very blind to
the beauties of the woods and I wish it weren’t so. Darned my socks today & read a
good deal of the Golden treasury, mainly Matthew Arnold whom I have read very
little of before.
6 May 1918
Had the men in the ‘gubbah’ this morning for extended order work: then the Lewis
gunners. There is one gun here, the other being with Dugmore. The stores which we
ordered from Zomba per the quarter master arrived today so we are well off for chop,
cigaretttes & whisky once again. Dugmore’s & Carter’s shares have had to be
packed. I am to relieve the former at Makalogi or whenever he has taken up his
headquarters about the 20th of the month — unless we get orders to move
elsewhere before then. Von Lettow is unofficially reported to be going S.E. across
the Lurio R. If that is really the case, our work here is practically finished.
7 May 1918
Hawkins came back this afternoon rather ill & has gone to bed. The new road is now
3/4 hour long. The women are to camp alongside it at nights so as to be nearer their
work.. There is an ngoma practically every night among the shenzis: I don’t know
whether it is some festive season or not, but they are brewing drink for a regular
blow out one of these days. I hope I am here to see it.
8 May 1918
Sham fight today between Hawkins platoon & mine. I had a pretty strong posn. On
other side Namahoka which he attacked. I have a lot to learn about bush warfare, &
so have the men, especially as regards scouting. No doubt they would be good
enough if it was the real thing. Climbed the Garden City in the afternoon & took some
bearings but my compass isn’t working properly: it also seemed to be affected by the
rocks which perhaps had iron in them. It was quite dark by the time we got back to
camp. The view from the top of the hill was splendid, just as the sun was going
down, & very peaceful.
9 May 1918
Dug some trenches & repaired bridges on site of yesterday’s scheme. After lunch,
got a big batch of letters from home, up to 28th January. & also a number of ‘Groats’
all of which were very welcome. David has got the M.C. tho’ he doesn’t say what for,
nor do they at home. Splosh is killed, Addie reported missing, believed killed. Pitman
missing. I can hardly believe it all — somehow I can’t appreciate it. I can’t think of old
Splosh being dead, for he was so full of life. I was glad to have a letter from Louise
from which she seems to be tolerably happy.
10 May 1918
Had a walk down to the Namahoka with Jardine this afternoon. They put a bridge
across it today. The road is now about 2 hours long & the worst of the ground is past.
Hawkins rather bad today, & getting down in the dumps. Jardine talks of sending him
into Songia. Von Lettow’s main force reported making for the Luginda so we may
have him up this way yet.
11 May 1918
Left camp in the forenoon with a few men & porters, to visit Kilanda’s & the other
jumbe’s in the Lukumwa valley, & arrange for collecting the food. If the Huns come
up this way we have to destroy what we don’t require for ourselves, so Jardine wants
it collected now so far as poss. . There is a good deal of dry maize stored on the
shambas, but the matani and malezi won’t be ready for a month or two yet. I have
brought out Jardine’s tent with me, & pitched it on the valley side near Kilanda’s.
Very fine evening & sunset, the light striking the other side of the valley & leaving us
in the shade but gilding the clouds overhead.
12 May 1918
Had an excellent early breakfast and then went along to Linganda’s. The grass as
usual very wet: splendid morning, sort of Sunday feel about it. Very little mohindi at
Linganda’s — they have had to buy enough from Msamo to keep them going. They
cultivate malezi principally. After lunch I went round Msamo’s shambas. The mohindi
has been grown entirely on the flats alongside the rivers (Lukimwa & Ludjirikuru):
matama & malezi are grown on the higher ground, where it is sandy. Msamo’s
people have a good lot of food, all stored in these little lofts they make. As far as I
can make out, a man gives each of his wives a shamba to work & she stores her
mohindi there. This idea of collecting it all together is going to upset their usual way
of working, & they were suggesting difficulties in knowing whose is whose. I came
across a number of traps for wild pig etc., made out of a bent branch & a noose of
string: when the beast puts its foot in the noose, up goes the branch & he’s caught.
He is prevented from biting thro’ the cord by apiece of bamboo which slips down &
protects it. Got back to camp here (Namahoka) at tea time. Hawkins up & about but
looking thin and white.
13 May 1918
Addensell & 5 B.N.C.O .s arrived this forenoon from Songia. The former comes as
2nd. in command. The N.C.O.s are mainly Scotch — one from the 6th. Seaforths.
We celebrated Hawkin’s birthday tonight & had a sumptuous dinner.
14 May 1918
Did little today. Getting things ready for safari tomorrow. Divided the chop, paid mess
bill (£4-10/-): wrote Standing & sent 10 R.s. to a/c. Wrote Louise.
15 May 1918
Left Namahoka this morning after an early breakfast, en route for Bwana Issa’s to
relieve Dugmore. Had a pretty easy day, at least it seemed so, partly because we
halted for a couple of hours in the middle of the day & had lunch. I am going to give
up the practice of going straight on and getting into camp early. I think it’s important
to keep meals as regular as possible: besides it breaks the monotony, & rests the
porters. No recent signs of game here.
Have two white sergeants with me — Kendall, & Hosie. I wonder how we are going
to get on.
16 May 1918
Marched for 5 1/4 hrs. today besides building a bridge over the Liwawa, which
however is only a small stream. Country easy: no steep hills: undulating. Sky
overcast & threatening rain. Had half a dozen men with cut feet & legs. Some of
them are pretty bad, & the sores are quite old. They can stand a lot of hacking, &
lose half a toe with the greatest sangfroid. Kicked a porter today: bad business: must
keep my temper better or I’ll be returning to civilization with rather brutal manners.
Besides, I don’t think he deserved it.
17 May 1918
Marched good 5½ hrs. today, down to the Nakawale R. Rather interesting country —
more varied and one or two extensive views from the higher ground. The path twists
about a good deal, from E.S.E. to S.W. The men seem rather tired but I think it’s
more moral than physical. I don’t think they are getting a very full ration, & they seem
quite sure of it. Signs of elephant having preceded us by a few hours today, probably
making for Rovuma. They have a bad habit of following the native tracks & cutting up
the path with their huge footprints. We crossed one path which belongs to them
alone, & it was, rather strangely, much better walking than the native path. We had
breakfast at the Ligunga (2 1/4 hrs.) & then came straight on here. I am having a
smokeless day today, to test the strength of my will. This is the worst time of the day
— after dinner.
18 May 1918
Had breakfast at the Matanda: just before we came down to the river we put up a
large herd of buck of some sort but the safari was making too much noise, so I didn’t
get a shot. Had lunch & a rest at Kipembere stream: pretty warm marching. Got into
bwana Issa’s about 4p.m. after 6 1/2 hours. Found Dugmore in good health & form
and a good camp. As usual he has been doing himself very well and consequently
has had very little fever. Good feeding seems to keep it away. We had a very good
dinner, water buck soup: liver & kidneys: banana fritters & tinned pears. He has
found how to make a good spinage of green bean leaves, & gets beans all the way
from Halifa’s. His men have been shooting a great deal as is witnessed by the
number of skins, biltong, horns etc. about the place. He has dug a system of
trenches, & has a bamboo canoe under construction.
19 May 1918
Rather a restless night with hippos wandering about in the long grass in front. Sgt.
Kendall & party left for Mwaga’s this morning to relieve Dugmore’s post there. I am
keeping Sgt. Hosie here. Dugmore took me round the place in the forenoon. Food is
very scarce here, the people living partly on grass seed which they winnow very
laboriously. They are very near famine. Dugmore’s boy ‘Ansi’ put up some more
delicacies today — fried brains, steak, fritters etc. He is a very good cook. Festo
came in today & reported killing two buck ( Grant’s gazelle Dugmore says) with one
shot. He was tremendously pleased with himself. A man came down in the afternoon
with his finger bitten by a tarantula. Dugmore lanced it with a safety blade. The victim
& his friends were much relieved that they had caught & killed the insect as the
poison wouldn’t be nearly so potent. A couple of lions in the distance tonight. There
seems to be a fair number here.
20 May 1918
Dugmore left about 9a.m. We had our photos taken by the sergeant, in front of the
hut, our two orderlies & boys behind. There is still a patrol and the people from
Mwaga’s to come in; they are to follow on to Namahoka. Had men out morning &
evening for game and got none, which is a bad beginning. No eggs either. We
haven’t got quite settled down yet but intend to start regular parades tomorrow.
Humbugged by thousands of small ants in the hut: they are everywhere, & tho’ they
don’t bite I hate to have them crawling about me. Visited Bwana Issa after tea. His
people are very near starvation but their ribs are still well covered & they seem quite
happy.
21 May 1918
Got the framework of new banda put up today. May move into it when completed as
the ants here are getting unbearable. They seem to be living in the grass walls. Had
five different parties out today for game & all came back empty-handed. It looks as if
the game has got a fright. The meat we dried is half gone already. When it is finished
I’m going to put the men on half rations so that they’ll hunt in earnest. Splendid day,
& very pretty sunset. The river is especially pretty in the late afternoon & evening.
22 May 1918
Sgt. Pagau, No. 9 Platn. arrived today from Mwaga’s bring six bags of food with him.
He reports plenty of food in the Luchringo valley. We have shot nothing today so I
sent Alijabulako & 2 askaris a days march up from the river to try for some of the
game we saw there on the 18th. Had a chit from Jardine saying no enemy north of
Msalu River. Also a wire from home saying David wounded & missing. I have been
fearing for something of the sort for a long time. Now that it has come I can’t
appreciate it. It must be want of imagination because I’m sure it’s not want of love. I
find myself going on with my ordinary work in an ordinary way, & every little while
brought up dead by the thought. I believe there is good room for hoping he may be a
prisoner and wrote home in that strain, perhaps not very successfully, in fact I found
writing difficult.
23 May 1918
Have had a full day today which has kept my mind & body busy. After seeing Sgt.
Pagau’s party off to Namahoka & looking after sick, went down the river & shot a
hippo. He was lying close in below the bank & I fired down on the top of his skull. He
came up shortly after & showed his whole head & I let him have another. I fired
about seven shots altogether, & after plunging about a bit he turned over, waggled
his feet in the air & disappeared. We got him with a canoe & he was towed
downstream to the next village. Hard work getting him up onto the bank. Spent the
afternoon cutting him up. The men & shenzis very keen & delighted. Several
squabbles over tit-bits. Not much fat on him. Askaris got gazelle & water buck this
morning so well off for food now. Also some food arrived from Halifa’s (flour, nuts
etc.)
24 May 1918
Alijabu returned today empty handed except for the skin of a half-grown boa
constrictor or large snake of that sort. No shooting done today. Lay out on the sands
across the river in the evening hoping buck would come to drink but we went out too
late. Splendid sunset & moonrise on the river.
25 May 1918
The Bishawish came down from Mwanga’s today with six loads of food. He has been
to the Oizulu Hills about 5 days south of here & been in touch with Portuguese
Intelligence troops there. We are now well off for food & I will be able to increase the
men’s rations. Lay over on the sands this afternoon again, & after waiting for about
1/2 hour a fine doe reedbuck came across. She couldn’t have been more than 50
yards off when I fired & as usual thought I had missed. I fired again & she bolted for
the bush. There was a young one following her & I tried a shot at it but missed & it
was off before I had time for another. We got the doe dying just inside the bush.
Bwana Issa’s son cut its throat, he being a True Believer, and we brought it over in
the canoe.
Bwana Issa says his people have used up all the grass seed that is to be found. I
have given him permission to send some people across the Rovuma for food. I
asked him if he had had any of the hippo’s flesh. He said ‘no’, he didn’t like hippo.
They are very conservative in their habits. I find the same thing among the men in
camp. A lot of them - Bugandas, Nandis, etc. won’t eat hippo, not on any principle
except that they never have eaten it, & neither have their fathers before them.
Buganda men from the shores of Victoria Nyanza eat it greedily. This shows how
slowly they will adopt new customs if left to themselves.
26 May 1918
Bishawish left for Namahoka & Sgt. Hosie for Mwaga’s to help Sgt. Kendall who has
fever. Looked at the rocks a few hundred yards down the river. They have a thin skin
of iron oxide, I think, over them. I believe Darwin mentions something of the sort in
the Beagle. Got some small garnets in a vein. Tried the sands again after tea & had
a long shot at a buck, hitting him. I came up with him in the bush & tried another shot
seeing only his horns but pretty close & don’t understand how I missed. Am sending
my orderly out in the morning to see if there is any trace of him. One of the men I
sent to Makalogie shot an eland today, not full grown but still very big, & a good load
for eight men.
27 May 1918
Sent the men to wash their clothes in the river today & they are consequently looking
rather clean, had a go at some guinea-fowl this evening: fired 8 rounds & got one
bird but hit at least three. They have wonderful vitality. The men brought in 2 buck
today so we are very well off in the meat line. I hope I’m not going to have an
outbreak of diarrhoea — two cases at present, one probably dysentery.
28 May 1918
Started Lewis gun in earnest today & feel happier for it. Intend having two parades a
day, at least for some time. I don’t know what to turn the rest onto in the way of
fatigues. Made a pit and screen of branches on the sands today, commanding an all
round view & hope to use it with advantage tomorrow. The hippo head which was
buried several feet down - so that the ants might clean off the remnants of meat was
dug up and carried away by a hyena last night so I have lost the teeth. However it
wasn’t a very large specimen & I can easily get another. The hyena must have a
wonderful nasal organ.
29 May 1918
Threatening rain this afternoon but cleared off in the evening. No game today and no
news. Didn’t try the sands today as I don’t know that the game have got used to my
shelter yet or not. There are some mussels (Anodonta?) in the river & I have told off
a mtoto to collect them for me in the hopes of getting some pearls.
30 May 1918
Shot another hippo today as we were short of meat. I got him with one bullet,
somewhere behind the ear, which was a much better show than last time especially
as he was over at the other side of the river. Also hit a big croc. but he got away.
Saw a few turtles perched on the rocks midstream. All the men and porters were
down cutting up the hippo in the afternoon and we took away as much as they could
carry, leaving the rest — one side — for the shenzis. The men are in high spirits in
the prospects of a good feed.
Have one bad case of dysentery on my hands & I have run out of medicine for that
sort of thing. Don’t know how it is going to end. The scarcity of eggs was explained
this morning by Willie finding a nest in the grass with 9 in it so I am well off now. The
hens have reverted to primitive type & roost in the big tree above my banda. They
have got the length of flying from branch to branch, but mostly get there by tight-rope
walking: they roost far out in the small branches.
31 May 1918
The dysentery invalid is slightly better today. I got a shenzi woman to bring some
roots which are supposed to be good for the complaint but he says they made him
worse. I am giving him a little opium, but why I don’t know. Had some women up
grinding mahindi today as I think some of the diarrhoea may be the result of eating
the hard corn. Had eight loads of food from Mwaga’s today. We have got all the
hippo pretty well dried now & I am going to send it and some of the dried buck up to
Mwagas, where they haven’t had any meat ration yet. The man I sent out for honey
came back today with a bottle full but not of bee’s honey. It is made by a small kind
of fly & has a particularly medicinal flavour & smell.
June 1918
1 June 1918
The glorious first of June has been rather dull & a strong SSW wind blowing
promising cold if not rain. Sent a lot of the dried meat off to Mwagas today. Sgt.
Kendall there has established a post now at Terera’s one day from Oizuli Hills & they
should be in touch with the Portuguese there. One of the men got a new buck on the
other side of the river this morning — they call it "Dandara" but it may be koodoo.
The horns are very fine and spirally twisted. We got a waterbuck too, so I sent a
hindquarter down to the Sultani who won’t eat hippo. He told me yesterday he would
rather die, but couldn’t give any reason for not doing so except that he didn’t like it.
The dysentery case is much improved today but I am doubtful as to whether as a
result of the shenzi medicine, mine, or sheer neglect. I am starving him anyway. He
has been very plucky & hasn’t given in as they usually do.
2 June 1918
Up early & went across to see if I could get any of the relatives of the dandara but no
luck. Over again at night & hit a waterbuck with good horns. He went down & rolled
over with his feet up, & then took to his heels. Night came on & we had to give up the
chase. Going out in the morning in hopes of getting him. Has been very dull today
again - S.S.W. wind but not so strong. Saw rain up the river tonight.
3 June 1918
Didn’t manage to find the buck this morning which is pity. We are wounding too
many, but the long grass makes it easy for them to get away, & the dry ground
leaves no footprints. I was going to kiboko one of the local ‘messengers’ today but he
bolted & seems to have cleared out with his wives. I am having his house watched.
Tried for buck again tonight. Rather think I hit one again but if so he got away. It is
the 6 o’clock aim that is putting me off. I always aim at the belly line instead of at 6
o’clock on the heart itself, so I expect most of my shots go low. Had a shot at a hippo
in the dark. He was eating the maize about 50 yards below my hut. I don’t know if I
hit him or not but he kicked up a lot of noise & betook himself back to the river.
4 June 1918
Tried a ‘drive’ up to Makalogi this morning in the hopes of getting some fresh meat
for the people at Mwaza. Afraid unsuccessful. Our people are to sleep at Makalogi
tonight. I got a buck tonight — through the head, so I nearly missed him, spoiled his
horns. The people are much troubled by hippos coming up at night and eating the
young maize. In fact it seems wonderful that they are ever in anything but a
precarious position regards food, but they take it very philosophically — it is a matter
of Providence.
5 June 1918
Hit two buck today & got neither of them: feeling very fed up with my shooting & with
having to let wounded beasts go. They will only fall a prey to hyenas and ? The
Makalogi party had no luck either but brought in a small water ….day. We are
running short of ? I have very little reading material here unfortunately — an old
Hibbert? (1914), & the Jesus of History being my two main diversions. However I am
glad to find that I am not slipping back into the old moody habits which made me
avoid solitude.
6 June 1918
Went down the river by canoe this morning after hippo. A lot of them seem to have
flitted from their old spot but after waiting some time I got one and followed him down
until he gave me another good chance. Unless they are properly hit the first time
they never show more of themselves again than their nostrils. If they are badly hit
they come up struggly and snorting & can’t help giving a good target. I got a small
bush-buck too on the way down. The men & porters went down to get the hippo
ashore & cut him up. They haven’t come back yet, so I suppose they have got him all
right. There is so much water just there that there’s a danger of not finding him. The
men brought in two other buck today, so I have sent one down to the Sultani who
won’t eat hippo. I have promised to shoot some more hippo for them tomorrow as
half a one doesn’t go far among them all. The people down on the shambas where I
shot the last two are reported to be fattening up and very happy. Am aspiring to be
the universal provider — the Carnegie touch.
7 June 1918
Didn’t manage to get a hippo today. They are getting very wary, & keep in the middle
of the river, showing very little of themselves. Got 3 river ‘mussels’ today but no
pearls: don’t know if they are the pearl-producing kind even. Sgt. Hosie came back
from Mwaga’s tonight, bringing a lot of food: I have enough now to last me for 3
weeks, provided I get meat as heretofore. He brought back Sergt. Juma Tangoon
back too: the latter is quite broken up between fever & his wife’s death. There has
been an epidemic of smallpox at Bombo, & he has lost his sister & child as well. He
has brought down a goat & two hens which he intends to sacrifice. He must have
loved his wife.
8 June 1918
Shot a buck tonight. Got him thro’ the neck but even then he travelled about half a
mile: fortunately leaving a trail of blood so we were able to follow him up. The
Rovuma is following pretty rapidly & big patches of sand are appearing, but in other
places there is a good depth of water. There are a lot of crocodiles about & these will
prevent a person crossing on foot until the river is pretty shallow — a month yet I
should think. The grass is drying up too, & withering: the shorter it gets the better for
shooting. Eremia shot a hippo far down the river today and we have brought up
some of the meat, which I will send up to Mwaga’s tomorrow.
9 June 1918
Have had a very peaceful Sunday, reading & writing. However in the afternoon word
came from Namaroka, recalling us immediately, & since then I’ve been thinking out
ways & means. I have too much food here & goodness knows how much more there
is at Mwagas. Also three men here not fit to walk & will have to get carriers for them.
I have to leave a party of seven men at each of the fords on the Rovuma —
Mwaka’s, Bwana Issa’s & Makalogi. Same runner also brought a few letters — all of
January. They took me out of the state of anaesthesia the I’ve been in for some time,
and brought them all at home very vividly before me.
10 June 1918
Got some of the ‘walking cases’ away this morning, also Sgt. Hosie & a number of
askaris & porters. Unfortunate that I have two more cases today but hope they will
soon be O.K. Have got hold of 4 natives to help carry two of the bad cases
tomorrow: they will probably take 5 days on the road. They will sling blanket on a
bamboo & carry them that way.
Bwana Issa came up today begging for cloth or clothes. It seems he has had a very
bad time with the war. An English patrol reached here while the Huns were still in the
district, & evidently he had given the former some assistance. The Huns came down
on him, carrying him away to prison where he got kibokod & was kept for 7 months.
He is about 75 I should think. They drove 25 of his men into the Rovuma & shot
them. They took away practically everything he had - implements, pots, ‘tea-pots’,
‘furniture’, 20 packets of tea!, £15, and his Koran. The loss of his book seemed to be
as bad as anything as he has’nt had it now for 2 years & asks how he can help
losing his intelligence — he was in the habit of reading it every day till 2 o’clock. I
asked him what was in the Koran — if it forbade him to eat meat. He says no, but to
wash his back every day. These are the orders of God. I asked him about God. He
says he is up above. He sends rain or sun according as he wishes but it is no use
asking him for either. When a man dies, that’s the end. His mind doesn’t live
afterwards — how could it he asked in amazement. However he says the black
man’s mind is different from ours. They know only how to cultivate the ground but the
Europeans especially the English ------. He had been greatly impressed by an
aeroplane he saw at Tunduru.
11 June 1918
Went across the river this morning to try for some fresh meat for the road tomorrow,
but no luck. Fired at a buck but missed: I have given up firing at their bodies & try for
the neck or head which is rather a small target. Got the two ‘stretches cases’ away
this morning. We will be arriving at Namahoka in penny numbers. The ants have
been a fair nuisance in my bed the last two nights. The tsetses are very bad on the
other bank, where the game is, but fortunately they seldom trouble us on this side.
Got a reed buck in the evening — a female. She walked to within 40 yards without
seeing us tho’ we were standing up. My orderly carried it to the canoe. I went round
another way and unconsciously stalked him, thinking the buck on his shoulder was
another, Good job I didn’t take a pot shot. Men & porters arrived tonight from
Mwagas. Sgt. Kendall is to come on in a few days: he will have to be carried — too ill
to walk. We are a bonny lot. This is my last evening here & I am sorry to leave. I took
some cloth to the Sultan tonight, & a little maize. He was pleased & was more
profuse in his thanks than they usually are. They are generous themselves & when
you give them a present they don’t usually overload you with thanks. I think it is good
taste.
12 June 1918
Got away at 9 a.m. today. Porters very heavily laden as two of them are sick & not
able to carry much. I have brought a number of hippo teeth & a few sets of horns but
don’t know if I will be able to take them far. Two of the ascaris gone sick already —
both Nandis. It’s wonderful what an unstable constitution the nigger has — especially
Nandis. They seem to have very little power of accommodation or adaptation. We
got to Matanda — 4 1/2 hrs. Climbed a hill behind the camp in the evening and had a
good view of Likoronga Hill on the other side of the Rovuma which latter can’t be
much more than 5 miles away. There is practically no water to be had here & what
there is, is quite opaque.
13 June 1918
Had breakfast at Nakaware and reached Ligunga River at 2, where we have camped
for the night. The water here is good & plentiful. No signs of game or tsetse, but
plenty of these abominable little honey-making flies which persist in getting into your
eyes. I can feel the difference in the air already, as we get up to higher ground: quite
chilly tonight.
14 June 1918
We are camped at the Liwawa River tonight. The march today was a bit tedious, a
good deal of it being uphill. The ridge up which the track climbs after leaving the
Ligunga seems to be composed of a quartzose grit which I found fragments of all
along today’s march. Soon after starting I got a piece of silicified wood, showing the
cells very well. I remember getting a very similar thing between Tunduru & Songia
but I didn’t see any cellular structure in it — perhaps didn’t look carefully enough. A
microscopic section might help to determine the age of the grit: the wood was
evidently dicotyledonous.
I believe this is the 3rd. anniversary of ‘C’ Company’s fateful charge.
15 June 1918
Arrived Namahoka at 2p.m. & found it deserted except for 2 BNC.os & a few of my
own men. All the rest have gone to Salimu’s, on the Njuga about 9 hours west of
here. Von Lettow has moved south and we are evidently detailed for road-making.
They have built a palatial mess here since I left & it’s a pity to see it empty. I got a
Drosera today in a marshy spot. It seemed very similar to our own species at home,
having spoon-shaped leaves. It wasn’t in flower. Strange getting a plant like that
which grows only in very special ground at places so far apart. Wonder if migrating
birds could bring the seed. The two stretcher cases arrived here yesterday. One of
them gave a bit of trouble on the road, threatening to die as he had been caught by
the same devil as caught his mother. I don’t know exactly what the correct treatment
would be but he seems quite convinced of the truth of the idea himself.
16 June 1918
Left Namahoka after an early breakfast for Salimu’s. Crossed the Likonde after a
little over 4 hours march. On high ground all the way, but forest fairly thick & did’nt
get a wide view. Have camped at a small stream an hour W. of Likonde. The man
with the devil has not arrived in camp yet, so I fancy he is spending the night on the
roadside. There are two askaris with him. I find there has been a good deal of
sickness at Namahoka while I was away. All the whites were down with fever except
Carter, & a lot of the askaris. Perhaps the end of the rains has an effect: I believe
insects are supposed to be particularly lively then. I came across similar grit to that
mentioned on 14th. on path today. All the ground round Namahoka is probably
underlaid by it. Big exposure in Lipya river bed.
17 June 1918
Arrived Salimu’s at 9a.m. Carter down with fever: Dugmore & Hawkins out of camp.
Jardine, Addinsell, & Moult in and slightly liverish. We were to have made a motor
road from Songea to Ssassawara but orders are now to proceed Nbamba Bay, for
Fort Johnstone. Rovuma posts are to be recalled, so Moult & I leave for Halifa’s
tomorrow morning to collect them.
18 June 1918
Left Salimu’s at 7a.m. with Moult & 10 porters. Followed track leading along the high
ground w. of Njuga & Lukimwa. Very little water. Have camped beside a stagnant
pool. Bath & dinner and so to bed.
19 June 1918
Left camp at daybreak with guide and orderly in order to get to Halifa’s in good time.
Did’nt gain much as the guide took the wrong road & consequently I got in only a few
minutes ahead of Moult who left a good hour later. Sent runners to Bwana Issa &
patrol to Likeruma & Mitimoni. Shot a reedbuck in the evening, on the other side. Not
much game to be seen, & grass very long. Indigestion.
20 June 1918
Had a lie in this morning. Moult went out but got nothing except the sight of some
eland. Read Churchill’s From London to Ladysmith. Interesting to contrast it with
present conditions. Have passed a lazy day. The people here are observing the
month of Ramayan — public service of some sort in a large hut, at 6a.m., 12, 2p.m.,
sunset, & 9p.m. Very like "Wee Frees" reading the line. They eat only in the evening
just now.
21 June 1918
Moult left for Likarume — one day’s march up the Rovuma — this morning.
Subsequently orders came in that he is to stay there. The company will be there
tomorrow, en route for Mitimoni, so we are evidently going to the Lake that way. I am
ordered to be at Mitimoni on the 27th. but that is impossible. Another lazy day: still a
bit off colour and dosing myself with Salts. Started "The Mill on the Floss".
22 June 1918
Felt the heat very much today & am afraid of one of these turns coming on. Spent
the day inside reading, except for a short walk on the other side in the evening but
did’nt get a shot. Read part of The Jesus of History in the forenoon. Am beginning to
see the necessity for studying the Bible as distinct from merely reading it. There are
a lot of things I don’t of things I don’t understand & can’t say this book does much to
clear them up. We have splendid evenings here — and mornings, but especially the
former. The red tints on the long brown grass, the brilliant quiet sunsets & the
reflections in the river are making me fonder of this place than I ever thought to be of
any place that is’nt home.
23 June 1918
Reading, writing, and generally slacking all day. Five sick men arrived from Bwana
Issa’s today. I am sending them on to Mitimoni tomorrow. Expect the remainder
tomorrow or next day. Halifa brings me a small present every day — nuts, tomatoes,
flour etc. I have nothing to give him in return: he wants clothes but these I can’t
spare. He is rather a good chap. I find, according to him men’s souls do live after
death, so Bwana Issa must be heterodox.
24 June 1918
Alijabu Lako turned up this forenoon with all Bwana Issa men: he has been more
expeditious than I expected. He is camped on the other side of the river now: we will
cross tomorrow morning and start for Mitimoni. Read all day: troubled with my head
and back — fever, perhaps, but I think a touch of sun. Splendid evening, with full
moon. Tonight is the end, I think, of this phase: "tomorrow to fresh woods and
pastures new".
25 June 1918
Got loads across river by 7.30 & marched to Bangalola’s arriving 3p.m.: breakfast en
route. Bang.’s is on the Rovuma, w.s.w. of Halifa’s. Track runs along river most of
the way, thro’ long grass. Not much shade. Crossed river — took us 2 hours as only
one small canoe available: then marched to Likarumi , arriving 5.45p.m. Put up in
Carter’s camp: very good banda’s. All very tired. Jardine has swept up all the men of
the district so I have to keep the two shenzis I have under guard in case they bolt.
26 June 1918
Left 6.30a.m. hoping to reach Mitimoni for lunch, not knowing the distance, arrived
4p.m. — 20 miles. Not much water, especially in later part of journey: porters very
tired and self ditto. Country rather monotonous: underlying rock quartzose grit:
ground very dry, occasional view of mountains this side Lake Nyasa. On arriving
Mitimoni found the company moving across the river (Rovuma) preparatory to
starting for Mbamba Bay tomorrow. Officers to cross tomorrow morning. Jardine in
bed with fever. Moult & Dugmore gone on ahead to round up jumbes & collect food.
Carter & Addinsell here.
27 June 1918
We got across the Rovuma, which runs by Mitimoni by 7a.m. this morning, the
crossing being made in a large bamboo canoe attached to a long rope to either
bank. The river is about 50yds. wide here. Mitimoni is rather a large place & is
presided over by a woman, with three jumbes under her. Jardine had to be carried
on a hammock, slung on poles & borne by 4 porters & must have had a pretty rough
journey, as the road is pretty hilly. He is a bit better tonight. We have camped a short
distance into the hills: marched 14 miles. Higher hills rising in front so tomorrow will
be heavier going. The rock is still grit. We have a pretty big safari of porters including
a lot of shenzis from Silimus & Likarume & had to get hold of some women to bring
some of the loads here today. The Jumbe of Likarune is also accompanying us as
penance for his sins.
28 June 1918
Got away very early this morning: started to rain at once & continued till we got to
camp about 11.45. Road very hilly & slippery with rain. No view to be had, because
of thick mist. Hills are volcanic — basalt I think. Jardine good deal better today. Very
strained relations between him & Addinsell, & things very unpleasant. Cleared up in
the afternoon: played Addinsell several games of chess.
29 June 1918
Dry today, fortunately, as we had several hard hills to climb, some parts being almost
perpendicular. There is a bara-bara most of the way but it follows the native track all
the way & there is no attempt to avoid hills. Had breakfast at a narrow deep stream,
which the donkey found it impossible to cross & had to be shot amidstream. He was
nearly dead with fly anyway. The valley slopes are very steep, convex, and usually
go abruptly down to the edge of the stream. We had a very good view from the top of
one hill, back as far as Kuntanda and Legolongo, & forward over the hills towards
Nyasa. The hills over which we had come, looked rather insignificant a tumbled
mass, without any arrangement altho’ there seems to be a tendency for the long
ridges to run N. & S. The hills were very pretty, covered for the most part with trees,
with patches of brown grass showing thro’, & dappled with the shadows of clouds.
Some of the higher hills were quite bare of trees. Camped on a slope above a good
stream. Very good dinner — tomato soup, salmon, chicken fritters. Beat Jardine at
chess: he does’nt like the game of attrition.
30 June 1918
Had a very good breakfast this morning — 3 eggs apiece. Had lunch on the road too,
& played Carter at chess. Had a very fine view of Lake Nyasa from the top of the
hills. The coast on the other side could just be seen — blue range of hills. The hills
run down very steeply to a stretch of sandy flat ground along the lake. The sun was
on the Lake, & showed up the valleys to the north of us: heavy dark clouds kept the
sun off ourselves & threw the scene below into greater contrast. The descent was
very steep and took us a good hour. Granite, basalt, volcanic ash, mica-shist.
Camped at the foot among old shambas.
July 1918
1 July 1918
Left at 7a.m. after hurried breakfast for Mbamba Bay arriving there about 11.30a.m.
& picking Moult & Dugmore with the other two platoons on the way. The track lay
over the sandy flats and occasionally right on the shore of the Lake. Waves of quite
respectable size: the askaris quite delighted when the water came rushing up round
their feet. Got a few small shells. Pretty hard going on the loose sand. Good number
of native huts along the shore, built of reeds with mud plastered over them. The
natives sitting round the doors seemed very dirty, & so was the ground round their
houses — not swept like the villages on the Rovuma. Lots of dug out canoes were
lying about but nearly all in disrepair: that and some were very skinny specimens,
hardly better than skeletons, on the shore gave an impression that all isn’t well here
but yet some of the women especially looked well fed and happy. Mbamba Bay is a
small cove, with hills at either end: the camp runs right down to the water & backs
onto the sandy flats behind: it consists of rows of huts set apart for officers, &
N.C.O.’s, & behind that for African troops & porters. There is a very poorly equipped
canteen, a post commandant, post office & pier. Had a fine bathe in the evening, the
bottom runs down very quickly, & the water is very clear & not cold. Got a bunch of
letters and papers from home, up to end of Februaryruary. It is awful reading them
now, knowing what has happened. They are all so full of David and his homecoming:
I had to leave off reading several times. It is very hard sometimes to see any
meaning in it or find the necessary consolation: if this is the end then there can be
none except that he did his duty. Ordinarily I don’t feel much depressed: viewing it
from this distance, especially when not actually seeing the sorrow at home seems to
be like thinking of something that has happened a long time ago: at least that’s the
only way I can explain what looks almost like callousness on my part: it is partly lack
of imagination.
2 July 1918
Had a bathe before breakfast, no parades today. Wrote home. Hawkins arrived from
Songia this evening, fit and happy. We are going to Limbi, near Blantyre, to rest.
3 July 1918
Early morning parade: rest of the day idle. Caught a cold last night but don’t think it
will develop into fever. Climbed a small hill to take photo of the camp and got a dose
of buffalo-bean: it seems to belong to a climbing plant, has a hairy outside which
leaves its hairs on the skin & sets up great itchiness: it lasts only about half an hour.
A good motor road runs from Mbamba Bay to Songia. A very fast service of cars has
been kept up over a difficult road.
4 July 1918
Embarked on HMS Guendolin — an ex-gunboat at 12 noon, of small dimensions.
(There is quite a lot of history connected with shipping on Lake Malawi. There has only been one
recorded battle on the lake that took place at the outbreak of hostilities during World War One. At the
time Malawi was a British colony and the colonial authorities, as a show of force in 1899 launched the
largest ship on the lake, HMS Guendolin, weighing 340 tonnes and equipped with two powerful guns.
She was built by G Rennie & Co in Greenock, Scotland and reassembled at Mangochi. There were
two rival colonial powers with colonies bordering the lake, the Portuguese in present day Mozambique
and German East Africa in present day Tanzania. The Germans also had a gunboat on the lake, the
Hermon von Wisseman, and the two captains were reportedly the best of friends, often meeting up
somewhere around the lake for a drink. In 1914 when war was declared the Guendolin was ordered to
destroy the Wisseman. The British captain knew where the Wisseman would be because the two
captains had arranged to meet for one of their regular drinks. The German captain was unaware that
war had been declared and was completely caught by surprise as the Guendolin steamed up and
opened fire, putting the German ship out of action and taking the crew as prisoners of war. The
Guendolin remained in government service until 1940 when she was sold to Nyasaland Railways and
converted to a passenger ship; she was broken up for scrap four years later.)
There were about 400 native troops on board, & 23 whites. The officers slept on
upper deck, in our camp beds: the askaris were packed into every corner. As soon
as we got outside the bay we began to pitch, & had a fairly rough crossing to Mkata
Bay, on the other side. There we took in 160 porters & the store manager & his wife.
We had a stroll on shore. Mkata bay is a mission station, with a large brick built &
red-tiled store, but with very little to sell. Behind it is a nice bungalow belonging to the
manager — one Miller, evidently of Edinburgh. Bought some bananas, pineapple,
papaws & eggs. Left again at 6p.m. Seasick.
5 July 1918
Had a very good night & wakened feeling nearly all right except for my cold. We
were fed by the steamer, but rather meagrely. Fine to see their numbers etc. again.
The mountains skirt both shores of the Lake, occasionally showing gaps of low
ground. Arrived off the Bar at 5p.m. & disembarked in barges. Marched in the twilight
& dark to the ferry on the Shiri River & crossed to Fort Johnston. Askaris bivouaced
& we were put up at the hotel where we had an excellent dinner and then to bed in
white sheets.
6 July 1918
Carter and I didn’t get up till 8 as we weren’t due to leave before 12 noon. The
remainder left about 5.30a.m. We had a very good breakfast and early lunch. Fort
Johnston isn’t a big place. It consists of one wide main street, with off shoots. The
street is lined by two rows of acacias, & the low bungalows and stores stand back
from the road. The hotel seemed to the only two-storied place: most of the buildings
are of brick. Saw a number of white women and children, as well as native women in
European garments, which is rather ludicrous. We got away about 1p.m. in a good
car; there is a very large M.T. camp here with any number of cars, mostly rather
dilapidated. We got through to Zomba by about 5p.m. changing cars at Fraser’s
Camp: total distance about 85 miles. The road for the first half of the way runs down
a very wide valley which seems to be a strict continuation of the Lake valley —
mountains running along on either hand. After leaving Fraser’s Camp we ran into
very mountainous country, the hillsides scored by v-shaped ravines, tree-clad lower
down and showing bare and arid above. Zomba lies at the foot of Zomba Mountain,
facing South. The Europeans live mostly along the lower slopes, where are also the
Boma and 1st. K.A.R. mess. The village lies lower down, composed mostly of Indian
stores, African Lakes Corporn. Stores & now of course M.T. etc. parks and camps —
but we had no time to go round the place. We slept in the detail camp & messed with
the 1st. K.A.R. They have a very fine place here with splendid view down the valley
to Mlanji Mtn. They have also a billiard room and a very fine gramophone which I
enjoyed very much.
7 July 1918
After early breakfast at the Mess, left by car for Limbi where we arrived about 10a.m.
travelling most of the way at hair-raising speed. Very cold especially when we ran
into thick Scotch mist. The country struck me as very uninteresting , altho’ hilly: it is
comfortless, few trees & those mostly stunted & deformed. Plenty cotton growing &
lying in bales on road side. This part & more especially the country between Fort
Johnston & Zomba is very thickly populated & the natives seem very prosperous —
well clothed and well fed. There is also a marked difference in their attitude
especially that of some of the women towards Europeans — they have lost coyness
and occasionally modesty: some of the children are regular guttersnipes. Limbi is
about 1 and 1/2 miles from our camp: small place, mainly Indian dukas: it is railhead
for this L. of C. Blantyre is about 6 miles away but I didn’t go over as I have got more
cold & being afraid of fever went to bed in forenoon. I wish we weren’t doing this
journey so fast: we have no time to see places or to buy things. We are bound for
Port Herald tomorrow where the rest of the battalion is. Whether we are to sit down
there or push right into the blue, is quite uncertain. Von Lettow seems to be leading
them a fine dance once more.
8 July 1918
Left Limbi by Shira Highland Railway at 7.30a.m. The carriages are very poor, not
even up to those we travelled in from Mombasa to Nairobi. No cooking apparatus on
board & no refreshment rooms. Managed to make tea with water from engine:
bought some fruit en route. Travelling very slowly — much worse than our own
Highland Ry. Country not very interesting: hilly, with occasionally thick, dry thorny
bush. Distant view of Mlanji, its summit high above the clouds: the highest mountain I
have seen unless Kilimanjaro. At Chiromo found part of No. 4 Coy. with Simpson,
Haslam, & Brown whom I haven’t seen since April. He is now keeping much better.
They are guarding Ry. Bridge here & patrolling country to East. Arrived Port Herald
about 4.30p.m. Battalion bivouacked beside station, officers billeted in bungalows.
Not a big place: 10 whites and one lady, married. Ground very flat: plenty trees in the
town, & short European-like grass: close by is Shire River: boundary between
Nyasaland & Portuguese East. No. 3 Coy. billeted on verandah of civilian’s house;
owner not too pleased: things unpleasant & food late & scanty. Heaps of
mosquitoes.
9 July 1918
No parades today, Dugmore & Addinsell down with fever. Very warm during day &
thick mist in the morning. Books arrived from Jo’burg last night so have now plenty
good reading material on hand. No news of the Huns. Nobody seems to know where
they are. They have got 2 cannons from Portuguese — captured them along with
spare parts. "The enemy is now well equipped in every department." Things seem no
nearer an end. Everything topsy-turvy.
10 July 1918
Went across the Shire River this forenoon with Jardine & the rest and visited the
Portuguese post there. The Portug. fellow has been there about 20 years, and has a
couple of black wives and a numerous half caste family, the most loathsome looking
things. He is very affable himself. Jardine & he spoke French, with lapses into
English & Swahili. We started mapping the Port. side. It is very flat & uninteresting,
full of swamp and mosquitoes. The latter are very big & bite all day as well as night.
The house we are living in is supposed to be mosquito proof but isn’t.
11 July 1918
Went down the River about 3 miles by canoe and walked back. The river is very
uninteresting, winding about between banks of black cotton soil, with stretches of
swampy ground & everywhere very long coarse grass & reeds. There are a good
many natives living on the banks, who seem to spend most of their time fishing or
standing waist deep in water mending their traps. Got back at 2.30. No. 1 Coy. in to
dinner tonight: not very rowdy. My platoon on picket round west side of town. Lost
myself trying to go round the posts, even with help of a lantern.
12 July 1918
Addinsell has been laid up for several days with his throat: going to hospital
tomorrow. Moult laid up as result of last night & ordered Castor Oil. Spent a pleasant
hour after dinner with one of the Scotch residents of the place, listening to his
gramophone and looking thro’ his books.
13 July 1918
Addinsell left for Limbi hospital today. We are rather relieved that he has gone as it
clears the air a bit. There is little camaraderie here: we are all far too critical and
liable to give & take offence too easily. Not having anything big to think about and no
common danger to bind us together, we magnify trifles: but on the whole we are very
happy together.
14 July 1918
No parades today: wrote home & to Logan: read Macaulay’s essay on Clive.
Outbreak of chickenpox in No. 1 Coy. which has gone a few miles out into
quarantine. Very close today: plenty mosquitoes out & biting all day. Marabout storks
building in the trees round about. No definite news of Von Lettow yet, except that he
seems to be near the coast somewhere north of Quilimane. No news at all of France.
15 July 1918
Pegging out the new lines today. No.2 & 4 Coys. arrived by train so all the battalion
is here now. Brodie in to dinner: reminds me of D.B. K. [That would be JBC’s school
friend D. Barrogill Keith, later Sheriff of Orkney] He and Jardine both lived in Uganda
before the war. They agree that it is much better run than Nyasaland or B.E.A. but no
place for the individual settler. Cotton in Uganda is a native product, & coffee they
think won’t do well in the future, altho’ it gets a good price at present. Nyasaland also
produces a great amount of cotton. Both countries are handicapped in the matter of
outlet, Nyasa produce all having to pass thro’ a foreign port. Labour is cheap in both
places — a boy gets 4 to 7 shillings a month. In B.E.A. labour seems much dearer,
at least personal boys are. The real power of Nyasaland is in the hands of the
African Lakes Corporn. — a Scottish missionary concern.
16 July 1918
Orders came today that we are to return to the Bar: there is evidently some
possibility of the Huns going north again. We won’t be able to start to move at least
till the day after tomorrow. Ordered some books for Jardine from J.C. Jeta.
Uproarious dinner tonight, & more uproarious sequel in Black’s house, which I have
just slipped away from with Jardine while most of the furniture was still intact.
17 July 1918
Moult & I left by train for Limbi en route for Zomba & the dentist. Had a very good
journey. Much brighter than the day we came down, & consequently much better
impression of the country. Had also the advantage of the company of men who knew
the country, on an ex-employee of the sugar factory on the Zambesi, & the other an
Italian planter. The main crops of the country are tobacco round Blantyre, tea at
Mlange Mountain, & cotton on the low ground from Chiromo southwards. Chiromo
used to be the railway terminus, & the river steamer came right up the Shire to there:
in fact in early times they came to within 26 miles of Blantyre. Now they can only
reach Port Herald in flood time & the railway has been produced from Chiromo to
there and then to Chimdio. Before the war there was a scheme for bridging the
Zambesi & carrying the railway to Beira. Chimde is inaccessible for boats over 600
tons & the bar is dangerous. The reason for these changes is that Nyasa is drying
up. The steamers used to come down the Shire to within 12 miles of Blantyre. There
is only sand & reeds there now; sometimes the river flows back into the Lake. The
latter has fallen 9 feet within 40 years or so. It is a long climb up from Chiromo to
Limbi, up the valley of the Ruo, thro’ fine scenery. We had a good view of Mlange
which is about 9000 ft. high. It consists of a high plateau (6000 or so ft.) with
absolutely precipitous sides, & two high peaks which were lost in clouds. There is a
mission station, & plantations along the southern base: on the plateau there are a
few houses for Europeans in the hot season: no trees except cedars in the ravines,
& elsewhere short grass. So far as I could make out the hills thro’ which the railway
runs consist of granitic rocks with associated volcanic rocks: they weather to a rich
dark red earth. Got into Limbi after 7p.m. & walked up to detail camp. Lovely night
but cold.
18 July 1918
By car to Zomba after breakfast. Got a few things at the stores & walked up to
Church of Scotland Mission. The church is rather a fine building — entirely brick, &
built by native labour. It is on cathedral lines, but without transept: high vaulted roof
with dark wooden panels. They have attained to some rude decoration on the
brickwork which has a venerable look quite like some of the Cambridge colleges. It
has several stained glass windows, and the pulpit reading desk & choir were more
like English Church productions than Old Kirk. There’s a small pipe organ too. Round
the walls are inset brass tablets in memory of many of the pioneers, including
Livingstone. We were shown over the school by one of the ladies. The children come
in to start at all ages. They learn to read & write in their own language first —
Chinyanza and then go on to English. We saw specimens of their writing, heard
them read etc. feeling rather like H.M. Inspectors must do. They go up to Standard
VI, which seems to correspond pretty much to our own standard. They are even
taught parsing & analysis. The teaching is mainly done by native pupil teachers who
get 5 shillings a month. They are trained as interpreters, typists etc. We saw over the
carpenters’ shop. All the furniture of the country is made by these natives in solid
mahogany: they turn out quite good work. In the mission there are about 15 white
men & about same number of women: most of the men have been called up. In
Blantyre itself there are about 1000 whites. The town is very well situated, but covers
too much ground for convenience.
19 July 1918
Walked into Blantyre with Moult and had lunch & tea at James’s Hotel: played game
of pills & wrote home. Morgan, Wiggell & Young arrived tonight from Port Herald,
also on dental tack.
20 July 1918
Sat beside the road with our kit from 7a.m. till 3.30p.m. before getting it aboard a car
for Zomba. Got a lift ourselves in a touring car & came along in fine style. The
country looking fine under the bright sun. Roads in good condition.
21 July 1918
Read thro’ casualty lists for April & May today in the K.A.R. Mess. Found David’s
name, also C.A. Mackay’s & David Soutar’s, & a number of others, mostly April 16th.
& 17th. Wish I knew how they are at home. Went to church tonight — first time since
October. Not a bad sermon, but very few people there. Church brick-built, bare &
rather comfortless. Have got a hut on the hillside behind the mess.
22 July 1918
Bought a few things at the African Lakes stores today & read most of the day.
23 July 1918
Have been reading up the war news of March, April & May. Rather depressed all
day.
24 July 1918
Climbed Zomba Mountain today with Moult & Young, taking lunch in a haversack.
The mountain rises abruptly up behind the town, in fact the Europeans have built
their houses on the lower slopes. It is a pretty steep climb, to go straight up, but
there’s a good motor road winding gradually up. The top is called "the plateau". It is
here that the Europeans live in the hot season: there are a number of bungalows.
The Plateau is really a basin the sides of which run up here & there into peaks. Quite
a number of small streams rise on the hill-sides — evidently from very high-sited
springs, & join up into one quite respectable burn which runs down the middle of the
valley thro’ thick bush & over many falls. The stream has been stocked with Loch
Leven trout which I understand aren’t breeding well tho’ & no fishing is allowed. The
Government Forestry Depart. has planted a lot of firs of some sort in the valley, for
the sake of the timber I understand, but, incidentally giving the landscape a homelike
touch. We fed at the side of the burn & followed it up some distance. I saw treeferns, royal fern, ordinary bracken and any number of flowers whose names of
course I didn’t know: it was like walking thr’ a Botanical Garden, & the smell often
took me back to Edinburgh days. When not sheltered the wind is quite cold up here
even at midday.
No. 4 Coy. arrived today. It, & No. 2 & the M.G. Coy. are to march from here to
Malakotera’s. No. 1 &3 to go by car at least as far as Namwera’s, East of Fort
Johnstone. The Bosche is evidently going North.
25 July 1918
No. 2 Coy. & M.G. Coy. arrived today: great crush in the mess: they are very good to
put up with so many of us,
26 July 1918
No. 2 Coy. & No.4 left this morning with C.O. to march to Malakotera’s, going round
south end of Lake Shirwa. M.G. Coy. went by car by Fort Johnston.
27 July 1918
Got 6 pounds from Treasury today. Auction sale of deceased officers’ kits:
impossible to bid against M.T.C. men who are rolling in money. So had to do without
a table & chair which I hoped to pick up. No.3 Coy. arrived after dusk.
28 July 1918
No. 3 Coy. left by car for Fort Johnstown, en route for Malakotera’s. Wrote Bessie in
afternoon & went to church in the evening. Borrowed some books of the minister and
so wangled a dinner. He couldn’t give me much help on the point I wished. The
native congregation numbers 1500. The elders he says are very strong &
thoroughgoing: also that the natives have a deep sense of sin: that they are building
their own churches in many villages, defraying all expenses & giving the labour.
Parallel with the church is the educational movement: no native is baptized till he can
read: so schools are established all over, & are eagerly taken advantage of.
29 July 1918
A rotten wet day, with scotch mist. This is a wretched place in bad weather: no
chance of getting warm or comfortable even in the mess. Spent the afternoon below
the blankets reading the Koran & James’s ‘Varieties’. No.1 Coy. arrived today, the
last of the battalion now.
30 July 1918
Better weather today. Wrote Mother & Miss Reid. Dentist for second time: won’t have
lower plate in just now as it would take too long.
31 July 1918
Had 2 molars out today, which I funked badly. Arranged to leave tomorrow, & am
glad to get away as this place is getting rather stale.
August 1918
1 August 1918
Gen. Hawthorne inspected 1st. Depot today. Got away by 12 o’clock convoy,
changing from Hupps to Ford’s at Fraser’s Camp and getting into Fort Johnston at
4.30p.m. very hot: many bush fires. Staying at Mrs. Martins Chigawe Hotel.
2 August 1918
Walked from Fort Johnston to Hill Camp leaving 9.30 and arriving 2.30, lunch en
route. The road crosses the old levels of the Lake for about 4 miles & then winds up
the hills. Very good motor road with hairpin bends. Road cut in rubble & rock
(metamorphic with volcanic dykes) & in places we got very large biotite flakes. Hill
camp practically empty. Telegraph N.C.O. here tells us of two man eating lions in
neighbourhood, which have carried off several natives in middle of day. He hit the
male last night & followed it all day today, but didn’t get him. Showed us rock-python
skin with claws on underside: these not present on ordinary veld-python. Had
splendid view of Lake Nyasa & surrounding country as we came up but too hazy to
see distance distinctly. Our personal boys are doing guard over the porters tonight
as 6 ran away yesterday.
3 August 1918
Five hours marching took us to Namwera’s. The road lay thro’ the hills but we had
done most of the climbing yesterday: in fact we were going down-hill most of the
time. Passed thro’ two fairly large villages with groves of banana trees, the fruit
mostly picked & what was left, unripe. The country in front of us looks rather flat with
isolated rocky hills. Namwera’s has been a big camp but is now nearly empty. A few
of our officers are here trying to get thro’ to the battalion which is 6 days further on,
but there are neither cars nor porters, so we have just to wait & see.
4 August 1918
Spent the day writing, and reading Public Opinion which I got last night from South
Africa. It gives a good idea of the stress & strain of March & April, when the German
offensive opened. Escort & the two Morgans left for the battalion this morning, and
Moult & I have been fortunate enough to get fixed up with porters, and leave
tomorrow.
5 August 1918
And the 5th. Year of the war. Left Namwera’s about 8a.m. with 15 porters, Fairly
easy march of 4 and 1/2 hrs. to a standing camp which we found empty. The country
today has been rather un-interesting and we seem to have left the hills behind: the
vegetation is mostly withered up, all the streambeds dry, & a number of bush fires to
be seen. Big safari of porters arrived in camp in the afternoon. The road is still a
good motor one. We are now in Portuguese territory once again.
6 August 1918
Marched 4 and 3/4 hrs. today, arriving just W. of Lujenda River. Very warm marching
& road crowded with the safari which came along last night: they are simple
straggling along in their own time. Nothing of the country is to be seen beyond the
roadside — high grass restricting the view & the land flat.
7 August 1918
Crossed the Lujenda & turned south along Lake Amaramba, to camp of that name.
The Lake is hardly to be seen from the road, for the trees & high grass: it is about 15
miles by 2. Got good news from France here: then carried on to 4mile camp. Met a
sergeant on the road with the most perfect Highland accent — from Inverness. This
is a very dirty camp, as porters have been sleeping indiscriminately in all the huts.
There is good water here, & plenty of it in a sluggish stream, where there are very
fine blue water-lilies & other queer plants. I tried for game in the evening but the
grass is too long. There was plenty about last night’s camp, jackal & hippos were
kicking up a row, & this morning we got lions & buck tracks quite close, on the road.
8 August 1918
Marched 17 miles today over very flat & almost water less country. Saw some buck
& a buffalo but too far away for a shot. This is the first buffalo I have seen altho’ we
often came across their fresh tracks on the Rovuma. He was cantering along,
parallel to the road: the porters dropped their loads & made for the nearest trees,
headed by Willie. After getting into camp ("21 Mile Camp") we both went out after
game, but with no luck. I put up another buffalo but he made off. Ground very dry,
only a few water-holes. Very fine evening, with new moon.
9 August 1918
Marched 15 miles today, but it seemed more like 20. Country very dry, a few low hills
of granite. Passed thro’ one village where we got a cock for sixpence but without
getting the owner’s permission. The women here have the usual nasal ornament
moved from the left nostril down to the middle of the upper lip, which consequently
protrudes. Very little water at this camp, & what there is is got by digging in the river
bed. Plenty game-tracks on the road today, but we saw no animals. They seem to
use the road a good deal by night — hyena, jackal, buck, leopard etc. Moult & I
shaved our moustaches off.
10 August 1918
Got into Malakotera’s about 11 a.m. with the aid of a "tin Lizzie". After some trouble
found the company, with them all in good form. Malakotera’s is a Portuguese boma
post, with whitewashed embattled fort, and wide ‘market square’. We had expected
to remain here at least a few days but orders came in in the afternoon to move
tomorrow for Muleterre. There is some word of a small native rising in that quarter.
We are in Baxter’s column, along with 1/1st. & 2/4th. battalions. Had to give some
thought to getting our loads down to the regulation four.
11 August 1918
Got away at 6a.m. Rather slow going, as a battalion, like Divisional days at Bedford,
& occasionally going very fast. Passed through between some very curious hills.
One great hill on the left of the road, rises a solid mass of granite sheer upwards,
with all its lines rounded off as if it were a diagrammatic example of a glaciated
mountain. The sides of it were all scored with perfectly perpendicular runnels, thro’
some of which water tumbles downwards. At one point what seemed to be two long
streaks of carb. of lime issued from a crack halfway up & fell down to the base like
two waterfalls, but we were too far off to examine them. We have camped for the
night at the foot of this precipice: there isn’t a single piece of vegetation on it & only a
few bushes near the top. The camp is very concentrated & I expect won’t be very
peaceful to sleep in, but I’m very tired personally.
12 August 1918
A long march today, about 17 miles, & a very tiresome path thro’ long grass, & over
occasional rough ground. The path lay between ranges of rocky hills, all with the
same rounded lines as the one we passed yesterday, but on a smaller scale. I think
the rounding is mainly due to the action of the sun. We crossed the Lurio river about
1.30p.m. — very little water: camped on the other side. The loads didn’t arrive till
about 5 p.m. In the meantime I went out for buck but without success. Had a bath in
the river at sundown, & am now waiting for the first meal of the day, & very hungry
too.
13 August 1918
Had a fairly easy march today, of about 11 miles, arriving at Muletere about 11a.m. It
is a small place, with a white Portuguese boma lying at he foot of a high rocky hill:
there is a good stream of water, & we found a fairly good camp to march into. We
pitched our tents, but it was too hot to sleep in them during the day.
14 August 1918
Parade in the bush this forenoon: getting down to field work again — advanced
guards etc. Very hot indeed in the middle of the day but I think this heat is unusual. It
was hot all last night. Wrote home today, & had my hair cut. Capts. Grant & ‘Samaki ‘
2/4 K.A.R. to dinner.
15 August 1918
Still very hot but have got into a banda. We expect to be here at least six days as our
porters have been sent to Malakotera’s to bring up our food. The Hun is still down
near the coast and doesn’t seem to be coming to much harm.
16 August 1918
Visited the 2/4th. who are camped near us here. Saw Straiton, and Sinclair
Macpherson, Reay. Fried zebra kidneys for breakfast this morning, but found them
rather strong. There is a good deal of game about here, but our men have brought in
very little so far. The 2/4th. have got some good sable & kudu.
17 August 1918
Sham fight in the bush this morning. Hawkins in defence & rest of Coy. attacking.
Some good work by our Lewis guns. After lunch Dugmore & I with 12 porters left
camp and went south for 3 hours along the line of hills to W. of Muletere. We
camped there for the night in a small hollow, in bamboos, beside small stream.
Followed lion spoor but didn’t come up with him.
18 August 1918
Left camp shortly after 6 with orderly & 2 porters each. We struck off in different
directions after crossing the Lualo River. The country doesn’t look good for game —
very dry, long grass & patches of bamboo. About 8a.m. I came on a herd of 13 sable
antelope and 3 hartebeest. I tried a longish shot at the bull but missed. They didn’t
take fright tho’ and after about 1 and 1/2 hours stalking I got among them & brought
down three. I got back to camp one o’clock & sent out all the porters, who got in at
8p.m. Had a good feed of grilled steak done on the embers. Fine night, with bright
moonlight.
19 August 1918
Had breakfast at 6.30a.m. — fried kidneys & rice, etc. Arrived Muletere 11a.m. after
very warm march. Good news from France — Bosches losing many prisoners &
guns.
20 August 1918
Kit inspection, but no issue of stuff, which is sorely needed & has long been indented
for. Many of the men are in rags, & when there is a guard to be mounted there is a
lot of swapping of clothes to make them look respectable. Orders to move came in
tonight: we are going south again, leaving tomorrow morning.
21 August 1918
Breakfast at 5.45, marched off 6.30, by same road as Dugmore & I took on Saturday.
Very slow going as there were a number of dry gullies to be crossed. Got into camp
about 1.30p.m. Very hot. Camped near a stream issuing from hills on right. After
lunch went out shooting & came on fine herd of eland. While I was stalking them an
askari came up & began shooting at some guinea fowl close by, so I had to take a
long & hurried shot & missed. Followed up the herd into patch of long grass, where
they began rushing round, not knowing where to go. Unable to get a shot tho’,
especially as there were a number of people round about & a lot of shots going. The
herd cleared off & we lost them. Shower of rain tonight and threatening more.
22 August 1918
Left camp at 5.30a.m. Had a hurried breakfast on the road, & arrived Lioma (13
miles) at 11a.m. Fortunately day very cloudy. Started again at noon & arrived here
(11 miles) about 4.45p.m. All fairly tired & a few porters fell out. Have made a
perimeter camp, as whereabouts of Huns not known. Lioma looked a fertile place —
Portuguese Boma with sisal, rubber, cotton & tobacco. Good road all the way, but a
few bridges wanted. Country hilly, but the road follows the valleys.
23 August 1918
Did about 20 miles today, in two stages as yesterday. Hotter. Everybody pretty tired
today, but in good form. Hun reported about 70 miles S.S.E. of Regone two days
ago, so we are marching with advanced guard & rear guard, & forming squares at
midday halt as well as at night-time. However I don’t think they are very
apprehensive of the Hun being near us, as no other precautions are being taken.
24 August 1918
Shortly after we got into bed last night No. 3 & 4 Coys. and four M.G.s were ordered
to Regone. The Hun was reported marching on that place and the 2/4th. were going
out to meet him. We got a splendid moonlit night and arrived Regone 7.30a.m. —
distance 14 miles. Found 2 Coys. 2/4th. still there. Camped outside the boma, but
moved up in the evening to the boma and took up position on the hill. Word had
come in that Numarroe — 20 miles out, held by 2 Coys. 2/4th had been attacked.
We moved out at midnight in that direction but soon heard Numarroe had fallen &
began to meet parties of 2/4th straggling back to Regone. We went forward very
slowly in this order No. 2 Coy., No. 1, No. 4, No.3. No. 3 had to look after large safari
of porters with reserve ammunition etc. so were well spread out.
25 August 1918
Marched all night a mile an hour and halted at 9.30a.m. to cook breakfast. The place
chosen was a basin, quite surrounded by hills. Just getting down to food when rifle
fire started between our advanced guard and enemy and there was a stampede
among the porters. Most of them rushed down into a small stream & buried their
faces in the bank, others got below the little bridge. I thought we were going to lose
them all, but they didn’t run far and as the firing died down we got them back to their
loads & the column moved on a few hundred yards. We hung about here for some
time, No. 3 Coy. not being called on. The firing was not brisk & mostly ours. The Hun
was reported clearing out of Numarroe & coming in our direction. The day was misty
& drizzly — it had been raining all night. The mist lifted for a little at noon, & we saw
the German safari moving along a mountain side across our left flank. H.Q. wasn’t
sure whether they were Huns or not so our M.G.s were not allowed to fire. This
matter of identifying the enemy is one of the great difficulties. They were afraid Von
Lettow was making for Regone so we about turned & boosted back there, my
platoon doing A.G. En route we had another stampede of the porters but arrived
Regone safely about 6.30p.m. in heavy rain. Fortunately Hawkins had arrived and
had food and tents ready for us, fished out our loads from the middle of chaotic mass
in the boma square and we got into bed.
26 August 1918
A few rifle shots got us out of bed in a hurry, but only a patrol scrap. Huns reported
all round us in the bush. Worked all day putting up barricade of sisal and improving
trenches. Huns sniping at us in the afternoon. He brought up a M.G. in the evening
and gave us a few bursts which sent us all to the trenches. Late in the evening he
crept up to the sisal but thought better of it when we opened heavy fire on him.
Manned the trenches all night, but all quiet after this.
27 August 1918
No. 1 Coy. went out this morning & worked round the boma. Meanwhile a Hun party
60 rifles or so strong, with 1 M.G. crept up from the Lioma road. No.1 Coy. got on
their flank & drove them off, taking some ammn. Etc. off them, & nearly getting a
gun. Huns kept on sniping at us giving us bursts of M.G. In the afternoon the whole
battalion moved out & wheeled round the boma intending to attack Von Lettow, No.4
Coy. forming screen, No.3 on left flank, and the others completing the diamond. We
didn’t go far tho’ for some reason & returned to the Boma for tea. Manned the
trenches again at night. ‘Short-Col’ was in touch by signal lamp tonight. Von Lettow’s
camp fires visible about 2 miles away. Quiet night. Moult with patrol today got
alongside Hun porters on march. They had been passing across our front. Kendall
did the same & captured a porter with a box of good loot.
28 August 1918
Short Col & R.N.V.R. closed up today and we marched out of the boma at 8.30 to
attack, the Huns being reported still in their camp. 2 Coys. held the boma.
We made another elaborate wheel thro’ the bush, which took an unconscionable
time. There was a machine gun somewhere which kept bothering us, but this was
the only fire we came under. We found out later, from captured porters, that the
Huns had cleared out early in the morning & while we spent the day feeling our way
thro’ the bush he was getting a move on, & is away north again. Returned to the
Boma & slept in comfort.
29 August 1918
Moved out of the boma and made camp about 1 and 1/2 miles out. Had pickets out
at night in from of Zareba. Huns reported at Mogomo, on road to Lioma.
30 August 1918
Moved out about 4 miles and formed a camp on other side of Luo River. Now in
"Fitz-Col." Loads late in arriving. Hawkins rather ill.
31 August 1918
Transferred to Barton’s Column today. Left at 9a.m. for Mogomo, but only did about
17 miles. Made perimeter camp as usual. Huns reported working south again but
nobody sure where. Carter left us as Barton’s Staff Captain, & Moult as temp. Col.
Signal officer. Sgt Barrow as R.Q.M.S.
September 1918
1 September 1918
At 10.30a.m. No.3 Coy. marched out along Lioma road to find out if Mogomo still
occupied by enemy, & to send out patrols from there if enemy gone. We went with
screen flankers & rearguard, & had 2 M.G.s. No.11, 12, 9, 10 platoons. Met no
opposition & arrived Mogomo 12.30p.m. 1/4th. askaris reported Shorcol had moved
on to Lioma. Bartons two battalions moved thro’ us at 5p.m. & we fell in behind 3/4th.
Very good news — Huns badly knocked at Lioma, losing 24 whites, 50 ask., 200
porters baggage & hospital on the 30th., & now gone east in disorder. We marched
till 7.30p.m. but too dark for night march.
2 September 1918
Left camp 6a.m. and arrived at scene of fight about noon. Occupied the British camp.
Very hot today. Our Coy. 3/1st. to search the ground for wounded & ‘kag’. ‘Kartocol’
in action today to the east but no news yet. Hear that 44 German whites have now
been accounted for.
3 September 1918
Left camp 6a.m. after early breakfast. Marched till 11a.m. towards Muletere, then
from 2 — 4 p.m. arriving & making camp at same spot as Dugmore & I stayed on
17th. August. Very warm again. Passed thro’ large village, now deserted, & all the
millet strewn about the fields & road, wasting & being carried off by anybody who
wishes it. Suppose the inhabitants have fled to the hills. Jardine’s feet bad these
days & making him irritable. Huns reported north of Muletere — Malema road. Three
of his companies not yet located.
4 September 1918
No. 3 Coy. did rear-guard today, a slow job with such a long column — about 5000
porters in it. Reached Muletere about 11.30a.m. (10 miles). Rested for a few hours
and then went on to "Lurio Crossing", same as on 12th. Aug. Arrived there 8p.m. (10
miles) and had some difficulty in camping in the middle of a shamba.
5 September 1918
Had a slack day: wrote home: saw Morrison who used to be in No.2 Platoon, 5th
Seaforths, now Adjt. 3/1 KAR. Talked with him about old days and got some news of
the old boys. Huns reported going N & E along banks of Lurio. Big kiboko parade
tonight.
6 September 1918
Marched to stream midway between Muletere & Malema — back over same road.
Have left Barton’s column now. Heard stokes guns to North this morning. Met
Moodie 1/1 KAR at Muletere. Very hot and dusty on the road. Got into camp after
6p.m. in darkness & very dirty. Now waiting for a bath, but not much water.
7 September 1918
Arrived Malema 12.30 this forenoon. Very hot and dusty march. Breakfast on the
roadside. Bush now practically leafless. Some rather wonderfully shaped hills on our
right, like huge boulders rolled together: bare tops, precipitous sides. Crossed
Malema river — a fine stream, 30 yards wide, 5 —6 feet deep, clear & strong. Boma
on E. bank burnt some months ago. We seem to be making for further East, perhaps the coast.
8 September 1918
Spent a lackadaisical day: wrote one letter: church service in the evening,
congregation of 10, in the Q.M. Stores.
9 September 1918
Left for Ribane 6a.m. Another hot dusty march, of 15 miles. Rather interesting
country, passing round flank of another range of tooth-like mountains, still with all
their features smoothed and rounded off. As we are now at a good distance from the
Hun we have no picquets out, and don’t dig in at nights.
10 September 1918
Marched 21 miles today, getting in at 6p.m., my platoon being rearguard. Not a bad
march: not so much dust on the road & more leaves on the trees. We seem to be
getting into lower & warmer country, but still passing thro’ hills of same smooth type.
Carried water from the midday halt as there was said to be none here but we have
found enough for a bath.
11 September 1918
Marched about 19 miles: midday halt of 2 and 1/2 hrs. below mangrove tree growing
in a dampish spot. Lower parts of stem (or aerial roots) showed numbers of hacks as
if with panga. Country still hilly: good camp tonight, beside a field hospital & small
clear stream. Moult to hospital with diarrhoea this morning & fearing the worst:
Brown yesterday with fever. Jardine very quiet these days & rather fed up with us all
I think.
12 September 1918
Arrived Ribaue 8a.m. Boma has been burnt by Huns: now rebuilding. Not much sign
of cultivation. A few shenzi huts round about but people very shy and frightened.
Could get no potatoes, but a few bananas & tomatoes. Lay outside the boma all day
in very hot sun waiting for rations. Left at 3.30 & came about 4 miles. Just had a
pretty good dinner. We are now heading N.E. for the Nampula — Lurio motor road, 4
days away. Moult & Brown left for Mozambique today, much envied by us all.
13 September 1918
Marched about 16 miles today. The road has now become a bush track, & more
pleasant. Rather unlucky day for us losing our flour among other things. Plenty water
along route today as we were passing thro’ rather hilly country. No news of the Huns
who seem to have been lost again: suspected going North on W. bank of Lurio R.
14 September 1918
19 miles today: crossed Muenbura River at noon & have been going ENE most of
the day: many deserted shambas but practically no sign of natives. Camping tonight
about 5 miles from "Nampula — Lurio Crossing" motor road. Late in getting in, No.3
doing rearguard. Water bad here, but daily rum ration now. Penfold went back to
Ribane yesterday, sick. Major Carr crocked now & will no doubt be going down the
line too.
15 September 1918
Reached Muenbura boma on the motor road at breakfast time this morning. Marched
total of about 22 miles today, getting in 6.45p.m., the afternoon march being longer
than was intended as no water could be found. Very dusty on the road and walking
heavy: everybody very tired. A good deal of sickness among the men — diarrhoea,
fever and fatigue. Von Lettow reported making for Mtarika’s on the Lujenda, having
got north of all our columns. Opening up Mbamba Bay again.
16 September 1918
Did only 9 miles today, starting 8a.m. so had a good night’s sleep. Spent most of the
day in a dry stream bed in good shady spot, and came on here in cool of the
evening. Some trouble about heavy loads — my box among them. Rations rather
short here. Understand we are bound for Medo & then Ngomano on Rovuma. Bosch
near Mwembe.
17 September 1918
17 miles: quite comfortable march. Country rather tame. Some good trees near the
streams, including vegetable-ivory palms which seem to favour lower country, men
brought us some "tamarinds" today — sort of bean with spongy inside: remember we
had some in the press in Rose Cottage long ago. We are all fairly well rested now
but safari life is beginning to pall a bit — especially the early rising.
18 September 1918
Left camp at 7a.m. after breakfast. No.3 rearguard so no hurry. Arrived Lurio
crossing 11a.m. (9 miles). River here divided into 4 channels by sandy islets. Said to
be plenty crocs.. Cars cross by bridge & pontoon. Camped among big trees on N.
bank. 4/4th here too: 1/3rd left today: all going to Medo. Bosch rumoured near Nudi’s
on Rovuma.
19 September 1918
Day of rest: men washing & cleaning up. Wrote home & to Louise. Rather hot here:
but no mosquitoes, or tsetses as far as we have seen altho’ there’s said to be plenty
fever and sleeping sickness in the Lurio valley. Didn’t risk a bathe.
20 September 1918
Left 6 a.m. Marched 16 miles N.W. thro’ rather dry & quite uninteresting country. Still
driving with us a herd of oxen for fresh meat but they are getting very thin, & dying
on roadside — when they are cut up usually & brought into camp. There’s very little
for them to eat. Got into camp at 1p.m.. Water rather bad. Jardine’s knee showing
signs of giving out.
21 September 1918
Jardine went to hospital today & probably won’t come back as he is fed up. Dugmore
in command of Coy. Marched 16 miles: very hot & practically no shade: not so
sandy. A lot of diarrhoea today, probably bad water or these oxen. Camped at (left
blank). Battn. ordered to Port Amelia and we hear is bound for Dar-Es-Salaam.
22 September 1918
This is my 29th birthday. Easy march 15 miles getting into camp noon. Good shade
below mango tree. Wrote Bessie: reading Sartor Resartus, & making resolutions.
23 September 1918
Very easy 12 today, mainly owing to C.O. being down with diarrhoea. Country gently
undulating: bush, bamboo & occasional small mangoes. Lay all the rest of the day
below a grass shelter. This is war as it should be fought.
24 September 1918
Passed thro’ Medo 11a.m. and camped on east side of Moma (9 miles today). Big
camp round the Boma — signals, supplies etc. Very sandy, hot & no shade: glad to
get down into the bush again. Jardine left by car for Port Amelia today: we may see
him there. 4/4th leaving by motor for same place today: we are to march (128 miles).
25 September 1918
17 miles today: not very interesting country. Lots of old camps & trenches along the
road. Flies getting very troublesome now in the middle of the day. 4/4th still going
through in lorries & making plenty dust. Got into camp 4.30. Sky overcast and like
rain in the afternoon, Finished Sartor Resartus.
26 September 1918
15 miles today, resting for 3 and 1/2 hours at noon as the C.O. has diarrhoea: we
would have preferred to come straight on. Country getting lower: atmosphere muggy,
but perhaps just temporary: heavy mist last night. Considerable difficulty in getting
water — only in holes & not good. Carter started as assistant adjutant today. Very
good news from France for some days back — good news from all fronts except this
one. Some secrecy as to our final destination: consequently much speculation.
27 September 1918
Arrived Meza ( 6 miles ) at 9 a.m. Drew 2 days rations, rested & cooked day’s food:
went on 10 miles, sleeping near water hole with very little water but we brought a lot
along with us. Meza is quite a poor place: no sign of natives or buildings except old
bandas: just a small ration dump. Rations very bad & many items missing: river
undrinkable.
28 September 1918
13 miles, reaching Ankuabe 11.30 a.m. Plenty water here, & good. Spent the day in
dry stream bed, below the bushes. This life is making me very lazy, but we will soon
be at the coast. Some word of a mail arriving tonight.
29 September 1918
Bosche reported at Haliffa’s, burning villages & collecting food. He has got away
from all our people tho’ still some forces about Songia & Lupumba. We marched 17
miles today: water more plentiful, but still has to be got from holes in river beds.
Hawkins very fed up these days & no wonder. Gen. Rawlinson reported at Dar-EsSalaam clearing out staff funkholes and making enquiries. Hope it is true.
30 September 1918
May’s birthday. Got the first sight of the sea at 8a.m. Easy march of 12 miles to
Mahiba where there is a large hospital. Very comfortable shelter amongst some
dense bushes, but with a good breeze from the sea. Batch of letters today March —
May from home, written after opening of German offensive. D. evidently fell 21st.
March.
October 1918
1 October 1918
Arrived Mtuge ( 10 miles ), marching over low, thickly bushed country. Very sultry
today & some rain in early morning. Rock here sedimentary grit, sandstone, flag &
limestone. Saw no fossils. Made camp in bush; very hot & high wind in afternoon.
2 October 1918
Kit inspection, hoping to re-equip here. Bulgaria thrown up the sponge: everybody
greatly pleased: good news from France too. Hawkins left for Dar-Es-Salaam —
dental treatment, & is to send off my cable. We expect sail about 8th.
3 October 1918
Crossed to Port Amelia this forenoon with Herring to buy chop. Pretty rough crossing
as the equinoxial gales are on. Tug took over seven dhows & tow rope broke: bit of
confusion. Port Amelia bay very big: rather shallow & tide leaves wide flats at least
on w. side. The port lies under an old coral reef which has been raised up just as at
Lindi but not so as to bring the flats behind it above water. Very hot crossing & I got a
touch of the sun. Found Jardine still in hospital & likely to get his ticket. Detail camp,
hospital etc. up on top of old reef: very exposed to sun, wind & dust.
4 October 1918
Returned to battalion this evening. Good crossing. Some confusion as regards boats
to take battalion . 2 & 4 Coys. have marched round the Bay, arriving P. Amelia today.
We will follow suit in a few days. 1/2 arrived at Gaia & camped there today. Dodds
reached us with a lot of whisky this afternoon, so some gaiety in the camp.
5 October 1918
One hour’s parade today: rest reading, writing etc. Very warm midday but high wind.
No mosquitoes here. Saw a wild pig for the first time tonight. Dugmore tried a shot
but no luck.
6 October 1918
Out after guinea fowl with Dugmore early this morning: got none. There is a black
crested kind here which doesn’t seem to rise off the ground at all & several have
been run down by the men. They take refuge in the thickest clumps of bush.
Photographed a number of men today as types of the different tribes: hope they
come out. Wrote a couple of letters: reading "John Halifax, Gentleman" — a good old
book, very full of the glamour of English countryside and home life, and am
consequently feeling a bit homesick. This is a splendid evening, with quite a Sunday
feel: not such a high wind as these last few days. Very quiet in the company now
with only Dugmore & Carter, & the latter mostly at H.Q..
7 October 1918
Left camp at 5.30a.m. to march round to Port Amelia. Road follows high ground
round S. end of bay. Number of exposures of sedimentary rocks- from conglomerate
to limestone. No sign of fossils tho’. Marched about 12 miles, getting into camp
10a.m.: made shelter under shady tree. Finished "John Halifax". Good many birds
here, some quite songful, like thrushes. Dugmore & Carter both rather groggy with
diarrhoea which is pretty rife still. Roberts & MacCunn in hospital in Port Amelia with
it: Michie ( Q.M. ) pretty bad with enteric. No. 2 & 4 Coys. shd. have sailed today on
the Salamis. We’re down for the 9th.
8 October 1918
Road climbed up onto old raised coral reef, which runs along parallel to coast &
terminates to the N. in the point on which P.Amelia lies. Road here pretty heavy in a
rich looking red sand. Arrived P.A. at 11a.m. Many baobab trees along the sea front.
No arrangements for our accommodation. Ultimately got into a marquee with some
of No. 4 Coy. Played a football match tonight & played very badly.
9 October 1918
Went down to the beach in forenoon. Got quite a lot of shells but mostly rolled &
water-worn. Old coral beds above high water mark weathering into fantastic shapes.
Conus, sypraia ovula? Natica?: turbo etc. etc. Many highly coloured Brittle stars ( 2
species ) hermit crabs, sea slugs etc. Shrimp with trigger-action in its’ big —toe. No
signs of living coral. The reef can be seen on the other side of the harbour entrance,
tho’ it doesn’t seem to be so pronounced as on this side. Saw Anderson ( Seaforths )
2/2 K.A.R. in hospital, wounded Chikola lately. Good match between K.A.R. &
Hospital — former winning 1-0.
10 October 1918
Early morning parade: platoon pretty rotten. Very stiff so lay in bed most of the day.
Rugby tonight between K.A.R. & hospital, latter winning easily. Osler, who is dentist
here & used to play for Edin. University, was playing for them — an unexpected link
with the past. We are still waiting here for a boat: we should have sailed yesterday.
There seems to be nobody who knows what is happening: no cooperation between
Navy & Army: if we don’t hurry up, we’ll be too late to get onto the Central Line.
Concert in Y.M.C.A. tonight — rather poor but the sound of a piano is a novelty.
11 October 1918
Down town with Brown & McRitchie. Greek who sells lemonade says he has to save
up rain-water for drinking purposes. He must save it a long time. Water here is very
bad — quite salt and almost impossible for drinking. K.A.R. beaten 4-0 by hospital. A
boat came in tonight, so we are under orders to embark at an hour’s notice. Hope we
don’t move till tomorrow. Exactly a year since we left England.
12 October 1918
Ordered to be on the quay at 8a.m. with all kit. Arriving there found boat not to be
loaded until noon. Sat about all day on the beach, occasionally resorting to a little tin
tea-shop, & whiling the time away till 3p.m. when we at last got aboard. Usual mix
up: very slow embarking: no method at all, & nobody directing operations. Got away
at 6p.m. Good breeze blowing, but tho’ we are now well outside there isn’t much sea
on. Am sleeping on deck. Ngoma left in front of us today: some civilians still on her
who went up to D.S.M. on her last trip & weren’t allowed to land: so they are still
occupying cabin space where we are so much pressed for space and time.
13 October 1918
Sea calm all day: slept and read.
14 October 1918
Arrived D.S.M. 6a.m. Got into harbour 10a.m. & started disembarking at once. As
usual no arrangements had been made at the Detail Camp. Had lunch at the Burger
Hotel, and bought a V.P.K. camera, for which I paid 45R. (3 pounds) films 1½ R.
Battalion had to pitch its own camp — small ‘bivvy’ tents. Brandy Bill gone hospital
with diarrhoea: Dugmore laid up with fever & not too good myself.
25 October 1918
It is a long time since I wrote up my diary: I am doing it now in hospital — 84th
General or ‘Germani’ where I have been sent with a slight attack of fever. No. 2& 4
Coys. with 1/2 M.G.s under the C.O. went up the line before we landed & are now
marching from Dodoma to Iringa. The Hun is somewhere about Njombe, south of
Dodoma. No.1 & 3 &1/2 M.G.s under Hewitt are still here. Col. Wilkinson & Beamish
arrived two days ago & "are getting down to a job of work". After spending a few
days in the Detail Camp in great discomfort we moved out beyond & pitched a
marquee near the askaris lines. Van Deventer inspected the 2 Coys. on Monday.
Dar-Es-Salaam is fairly warm by day but cool breeze in the evenings when
everybody comes out to take the air. Quite a number of German ladies, mostly to be
seen sitting on the sands in the evening: also some of their husbands & a few
officers — prisoners I suppose. Good dinner to be got at the Burger Hotel.
28 October 1918
Still in hospital, but expect to leave tomorrow. Fever quite better but the appendicitis
pains which were troubling still there. Hospital life very dull. Have been reading Les
Miserables & played some chess. Was at church last night — German Lutheran one,
whitewashed inside, something of cathedral type. Very rich toned organ and the
singing was hearty and good. Very fiery preacher. German hymn books still in the
pews. Splendid news from Europe. Talk now of an armistice. The hymns last night
were triumphant, victorious ones. No news of Von Lettow. Troops still going up the
central railway. Spanish flu is ravaging South Africa. Passenger traffic suspended:
no evacuations from here to there. A few suspected cases in hospital here. Saw
Ralph McKay here a few days ago: in good form & health.
30 October 1918
Came out of hospital yesterday afternoon. Field stunt this morning under Col.
Wilkinson versus 5/4 under Col. Harvey. Different feel abut the battalion already.
Everybody keen. Visited Ralph: 1/3 down with flu: we are taking precautions to keep
our men clear.
31 October 1918
Left tonight under secret orders at 7p.m. — No. 3 Coy. & 1 section M.G.s by train.
Dinner at the Burger before leaving, Jardine & Col. Harvey seeing us off. Pretty good
1st.class carriage, with cold spray, beds longitudinally arranged.
November 1918
1 November 1918
Arrived Morogoro 9a.m.: breakfast on platform. Picturesque hills behind the town
which is reckoned a health resort. Native villages high up on N. side of hills (Uluguru
Mtns.). Kilossa 1p.m. unhealthy. Very hot all day: men crowded in iron trucks must
be feeling it badly especially as they’re not allowed out at the stations even to go to
cheroni as the C.O. is afraid of desertions. Country from Kilossa to Dodoma ( 9p.m. )
very dry, uninteresting. Dinner here at an Indian shop.
2 November 1918
Not so hot today but bad enough. Country flat open bush, very dry. No signs of game
but this said to be giraffe country, as shown by very high telegraph poles. Tabora
4.15p.m. Changed trains. Medical inspection revealed 15 cases for hospital, mostly
Spanish flu. Willie got it too I think. Owing to red tape on part of Belgians who seem
to run this part of the line, we have to wait here till tomorrow. Detrained & extended
the company to prevent infection. Myself orderly officer: got a tent up & am fairly
comfortable. Remainder sleeping in train & probably dining at the hotel. Glad to have
this chance of writing up my diary. We are evidently bound for Bismarkburg, foot of
Tanganyika. Bosche reported in Tife. Hope flu doesn’t spoil our tour, which we are all
looking forward to.
3 November 1918
Great many cases of flu today, including Willie & the cook: all sent to hospital. A
general medical inspection brought out a lot more: all the askaris were made to
gargle with Pot. Permang. — which they didn’t enjoy. After some hesitation it was
decided to send 2coy. 1/2nd K.A.R. to Bismarkburg instead of us. We were very
much disappointed but have only 8 N.C.O.s ( mostly L/cpls. ) left with the Coy. Slept
as last night, the others round about the station.
4 November 1918
10 more cases in No.3 this morning. Left Tabora about 7a.m. & marched 11 and 1/2
miles south to Urumwa where there is a water hole & pump attached. Laid out lines
which took us all afternoon to measure out, and weren’t well done when finished.
Dugmore feeling off colour but thinks it’s only fever. Our kit didn’t turn up till about
9p.m. as the ox wagons had got stuck in the sand.
5 November 1918
Men worked on their lines all day, ourselves sitting in the sun, & feeling very
uncomfortable. Austria signed armistice yesterday. Dugmore very ill — temp. 106
degrees. Fewer cases among the men.
6 November 1918
Dugmore still very ill: temp. 103 — 4 degrees & won’t come down. No ambulance to
be got to take him to hospital: all the sick men lying among the bushes: great
slackness somewhere. Sun very hot here from 8a.m. to 5p.m. Men’s lines practically
finished now. Grass & wood getting scarce.
7 November 1918
Dugmore a little better today but still high temp. Got him away to hospital today:
Carter also. Sgt. Macgregor went a few days ago. Very few new cases among
askaris but porters still bad, & at nights great coughing in camp. Started on officers
lines today & moved into new mess before heat of the day.
8 November 1918
Got my hut practically finished this afternoon, so am able to escape the heat & do
some writing. Great plague of flies here, most probably due to shenzis living round
about. Arap Mossuk doing boy & orderly for me with some acceptance. Gargling
parade daily for all African troops. Think the flu has about run its course now.
11 November 1918
Armistice signed at 11a.m. this morning: the news reached us at 5p.m. C.O.
announced it on parade. I can’t realize it, that the war is finished, probably because
we are so far from everything. Had dinner outside, with C.O. etc. Sounds of revelry
all over the camp, altho’ I don’t think the askaris know what has happened, except in
a vague way.
12 November 1918
A full holiday today. Preparations for big ngoma tonight - firewood & native beer in
large quantities. 3/4 K.A.R. played West African Ambulance at soccer. We were beat
2-0 altho’ we had nearly all the play. Ross (Edin. Varsity & Scotland rugger) played
for them. Had a peace celebration dinner in the evening. The ngoma rather a failure
as the women got the wind up and went home.
13 November 1918
Lay in this morning. Parade at 4.30 - 6. Company in horrible condition. Von Lettow
ordered report Abercorn.
14 November 1918
Orderly officer. Saw a lot of natives today returning to their villages, having heard the
war is over.
15 November 1918
Started bayonet fighting and musketry today. Doing 3 hours parade daily - practically
the only hours one can be outside with any comfort. Everybody feeling slack & in
spite of all the good news, perhaps a little depressed. Heavy clouds about tonight &
some light showers. Rains will soon be starting, according to C.O. Von Lettow
surrendered unconditionally 96 miles south of Abercorn, in accordance with
armistice.
16 November 1918
Good game of football against same people as on Tuesday, & beat them 1 — 0.
Enjoyed the game very much. A good deal cooler today: heavy clouds, and
occasional showers morning & evening. About 50 askaris came out of hospital today.
Willie is very ill indeed. I have taken a new boy on trial — Salimu, from Morogoro.
17 November 1918
Battalion sports this evening — great success. Spear throwing interesting — 50
yards greatest distance but the spears weren’t up to much. They take a short run
before throwing. Thundery weather, & a good few showers going.
18 November 1918
Orderly officer. Had a lot of hunting round to do; the C.O. very keen on having
everything spick & span. Sports finished tonight. As a rule the men aren’t keen on
sports: they’re rather self-conscious. We marched them down to the ground so as to
be sure they would get there. Otherwise they would probably have lain in their huts
all evening.
19 November 1918
By autocar to Tabora today. Thornhill drove me out to the Carrier Depot Hospital
where I recovered Dennis the cook. Willie died yesterday. Bought a few things & had
lunch at the Tabora Hotel. Tabora lies on the low ground west of the Boma. The
buildings are nearly all of the Arab type — solid whitewashed walls, deep windows &
heavy doors. Great deal of colour about the market, wh. is just in front of the Tabora
Hotel. The latter run by a Greek. Good food. Got back to camp in afternoon. Hawkins
laid up with high temperature.
20 November 1918
Bush work in the morning, musketry in the evening. We are working fairly hard — at
least the end of the war hasn’t slackened things off at all and parade is parade these
days with the C.O. always on the go. Very heavy clouds in the evening, a lot of
thunder, lightning & rain about. The rains have started now. Spanish flu very bad in
Tabora. Rumour we are to go to Bombo, via Mwanza.
21 November 1918
Orderly officer. Safaris coming up from the south nearly every day: the line is pretty
well cleared now. Expect the 4/4th. soon. Dugmore came back from hospital today,
looking pretty thin.
22 November 1918
Carter joined headquarters mess today. He, Hawkins & Dugmore on stout, as all rundown, greatly to their delight. Football match tonight, K.A.R. vs. Ambulance, which
we won 1 — 0.
24 November 1918
Very slack day, & very hot indeed. Wrote most of the day. Askari football match in
the evening gave us some amusement.
25 November 1918
Very heavy rain this afternoon, accompanied by abrupt change of wind from N.E. to
S.W. Most of the bandas leaked badly. Started teaching Moult, Dugmore & Hawkins
chess. Showed McCunn Tosh’s poems today, which he says are "quite in the front
rank". ‘War the Liberator’ is on the same level as Rupert Brooke.
26 November 1918
Some rain today, & quite cold at midday. One coy.4/4th.arrived today. They are to
garrison (i.e. Battalion) Mwanza, Tabora, Dodoma & Irangi. Hear the 5/4th are also
for garrison duty. Small mail arrived today, up to August 28th.
27 November 1918
One coy. 4/4th. passed thro’ early this morning taking with them all our Mwanza &
Kisumu (Kavirondo) porters. The porters were highly delighted. Their singing
wakened me. Officers played and beat B.N.C.O.s today 3-2.
28 November 1918
Brown & McRitchie left this forenoon with 100 men for Morogoro. Later we had
orders to move to Tabora 6.30a.m. tomorrow. Played 4/4th.tonight & beat them 1-0:
very hot game. Good deal of rain tonight.
29 November 1918
Marched to Tabora today: a fine dull morning. Photographed Sultan Saidi chief of the
Wanyamwezi, en route. Hung about the station all day till evening: entrained 6p.m.
after hurried dinner on the platform. Accommodated in iron trucks — 4 officers in
each. Colonel in guard’s van. All decent carriages being kept for Von Lettow & his
minions who are expected one of these days.
30 November 1918
Very hot in the van: dry waterless country, hardly a leaf or blade of grass to be seen:
water courses all bone-dry. Cooked breakfast on the side of the line. Lunched at
Dodoma, which is a dreary looking place. Met Carter 2/6th.here. Left 5 p.m. Fine
evening.
December 1918
1 December 1918
Arrived Morogoro 7a.m. having got stuck on the line for some hours. Camp being
pitched at foot of mountains to south of town. Splendid view from my tent. On the left
the Crown Prince’s shooting box, in front the camp & his quondam rubber plantation.
Further out across the plains another line of hills. Close on the right a small spur
behind which 1/3rd. are camped. Splendid water supply laid on in pipes, & a
mountain stream below the shooting box.
2 December 1918
Orderly officer, so had to be up while the others lay in bed. Splendid sunrise, gilding
the hills opposite. We are well in the shade of the hills here until about 7.30a.m. A
number of officers applied yesterday to stay on in the K.A.R. I am not among them.
8 December 1918
The whole battalion has concentrated here but there is no definite word as to what is
to happen to us. We will probably be disbanded at Nairobi in the near future.
Meanwhile we have got settled down here & cleared a parade ground. We start
regular parades again tomorrow morning.
The weather has been very hot, especially in the afternoons, when it is almost worse
than useless to go to sleep. We are expecting rain and looking forward to it to cool
the air.
The people here are Wakami, & cultivate the usual maize mohogo etc. while at the
Mission they grow English vegetables etc. Eggs are 7 cents, fowls 1 — 1 and _ R.
Fruit not too plentiful: no mangoes.
Mica is mined or quarried in the hills behind. One mine, 2 days up, has closed down
since the war finished & paid off 1200 boys. The mica was being used for gas masks
etc. I believe it wouldn’t pay a private firm to run it. It is in pegmatite veins & has
been worked in shallow tunnels near the camp.
Von Lettow surrendered with 155 whites, 1186 African ranks, 37 M.G.s, 200,000
S.A.A. He & some of his party passed thro’ by train yesterday and spent an hour on
the platform where they were met by practically the whole of the German population
— women & girls mainly. They looked very fit indeed, their clothes a bit worn
certainly but no signs of crumpling up with fever. I couldn’t help admiring them. They
are a tough lot.
Today Moult and I climbed the mountain and visited what was the German mission in
prewar days. It harbours now 17 German women, & their 20 children, for whose sake
they live so high up. The air was quite cool up there and the children looked a good
deal better than those who live down in Morogoro. We had a cup of tea, altho’ they
were pretty hard up themselves. The lady who entertained us was very well
educated — the grand daughter of two Gottingen professors. She thought that things
couldn’t be so bad in Germany as they were made out to be. She had very strong
feelings, naturally, & we had to be pretty careful. I think the difficulty now will be to
convince the German people that the war was carried on dishonorably by their side. I
don’t see how general repentance is to be brought about; but insofar as they were
misled in that respect by their powers that were, repentance won’t be necessary.
17 December 1918
Still in Morogoro, but we hope to leave this week. However we had 3 cases of flu this
morning: if it gets worse we may be quarantined again. Besides, D.S.M. is congested
with troops waiting for transport. Our B.N.C.O.s left yesterday for Nairobi & Blighty.
The 1/3rd left end of last week also for Nairobi.
The time is passing very slowly. It is just as well we have two parades a day,
otherwise we would be too slack for anything. As it is, the only man with any
keenness left is the C.O. The days are very hot, especially about midday, & it’s
impossible to be comfortable anywhere then. We put the time in reading, sleeping, at
cards, chess etc. All are pining for a move, & discharge.
We have had several games of football & beat the 1/3rd.
21 December 1918
No.1 & 2 Coys. left for Morogoro by train this evening. 3 & 4 left here with John
Parker in charge.
22 December 1918
Remainder of the battn. entrained this evening & left Morogoro 6p.m. We have 2nd.
Class carriage this time. Sorry not to see the country between here and D.S.M.
23 December 1918
Wakened in D.S.M. Breakfast at the Burger & entertained to dinner there by No.2
Coy. Back by boat.
24 December 1918
Paraded today & handed in rifles, bayonets, S.A.A. etc. Men very pleased at
retaining their equipment, so as to distinguish them from porters. Had dinner at the
camp, & had very quiet evening.
25 December 1918
Very hot: unlike Christmas, no such feeling in the atmosphere. Regimental dinner at
the Burger, joint with _. Met Lt. Miller, 1/5th Seaforths, there but he was too tight to
have a rational conversation with. The Doc. & I walked home before the evening got
too uproarious.
26 December 1918
Breakages last night came to 10 pounds, not too bad for 2 battns. Bought about 25
pounds of ivory this afternoon, half of which at least I hope to sell at a profit in
London. Difficult to know what presents to take home. Nothing distinctly African to be
got. Dinner at the Burger, & back by boat.
27 December 1918
Paraded 5.30a.m. Started embarking on Salamis at 6.00a.m. Accommodation poor.
Three sittings for meals. Left 11a.m.. Very smooth but good deal of rain. Still some
cases of flu cropping up. Slept on upper deck.
STARTING FOR HOME
28 December 1918
Arrived Kilindini 6a.m. All disembarked by 9.30a.m., after breakfast. Brown & I picked
up kit at Mendoza’s. Found I have a bank balance of only 12 cents. Train to Nairobi
at 2p.m. Remainder to leave at 4.30. High tea at Sumburn.
29 December 1918
Pleasant journey, but slow. Usual game: very cold, especially on front of engine
where we sat part of the way. Arrived Nairobi 7p.m. K.A.R. band on platform but no
welcome from the civilians. They are very apathetic. Moult & I ordered to leave the
train here & go to detail camp. Disappointed not to see Uganda etc. Hurried goodbye
to platoon: sorry to see the last of them when it came to the point.
30 December 1918
Hawkins & a lot more came up from the station this morning, being redundant like
ourselves. To Donnie Rose’s for dinner with John Munro etc. in the evening &
enjoyed myself.
31 December 1918
Moult went to hospital today with high temp. Hope it’s not flu. Very cold here &
weather wet: many have colds: have put on my thick underclothing. Very quiet
Hogmanay. Went to bed 10p.m.
1919
January 1919
1 January 1919
Game of pills. Time going in slowly. Visited Moult: he is rather bad.
2 January 1919
Moult seriously ill with flu & pneumonia.
9 January 1919
Cabled home today: we were to have gone to Mombasa tomorrow, but put off till
Saturday. We are all fed up with being here so long, & getting no local leave. I have
been quite off-colour for several days, & fear flu. Sore heads all day however seem
to be afflicting others besides myself: I think the altitude doesn’t suit my heart either.
I have passed most of the time playing chess or studying it in my tent. Dr. Rendle of
the Uganda service is stationed here & a good player. I have learnt a lot by playing
with him. That & excursions down town have helped to put the time in. No word of
the remainder of the battalion. Moult has got round the corner & getting on now, but
fed up at not being allowed to go home with us. He is quite unfit for it tho’.
Have been inquiring into vacancies in Gov’t service here, but found nothing decent
going. Salaries 250 — 300 pounds a year, & perhaps 60 pounds house allowance.
That’s no good here.
10 January 1919
Wind fairly up today about flu but felt better in the evening & on doctor’s unofficial
advice decided to chance the voyage. Packed up, & sold off some of my
unnecessary clothing.
11 January 1919
Left Nairobi 2.30p.m. Platform crowded with officers & civilians. K.A.R. band playing
selections. Ralph there too. Fine sight of game on Athi plains.
12 January 1919
Arrived Mombasa 2.30p.m. after quite a pleasant journey. Embarked at once & by
manoeuvering managed to get a share in a cabin on upper deck. Slept on deck: very
warm.
13 January 1919
Ashore & settled up with bank in morning. Sailed at 1p.m. in freshening breeze. Boat
HMS Patris, ex-Greek emigrant ship. Not too bad but very crowded. Slept on deck
again, along with a lot more.
14 January 1919
Out of sight of land all day. Sea fairly calm & boat very steady. Making good speed.
Not at all squeamish except for some nasty odours. Not too much deck room for
exercise. Read most of the day, finishing Trollope’s "The Warden".
15 January 1919
Passed close along shore of Italian Somaliland all day. Low, sandy, uninviting: a few
groups of buildings at different points. Breeze freshening in the evening, but boat still
steady as a rock, for which we are all thankful.
16 January 1919
No land visible today: wind fresh in the evening but we are still running straight into
the swell & not rolling. Getting distinctly colder, especially in the evenings. Full moon.
17 January 1919
Passed close to ‘Ras Hafun’ this forenoon — a broad flat-topped cape of horizontally
bedded rocks with small slopes below. Later, at 6p.m., rounded Cape Guardafur,
similar to ‘Ras Hafun’. After that had following wind & sea. Saw the North Star
tonight for the first time since October last year.
18 January 1919
Milder today, but mornings creeping in a bit. Ship rolling considerably today, & with
list to starboard. No more fresh water for baths. Passed Aden 6p.m. in the distance
— long high rocky outline thro’ thin haze was all we saw of it, & now its two lighthouses.
19 January 1919
Passed thro’ Straits of Bab-El-Mardeb during the night. Was up at 3a.m. & saw what
I took to be part of them. All forenoon we kept passing small barren, rocky islands, a
few with light-houses: also about half a dozen steamers going south. Heavy following
swell & wind: boat rolling a good deal & this list makes it worse: racks on the tables.
Sea down in the evening.
20 January 1919
Calm sea & quite stuffy today, but later strong head wind rose. Interesting talk with
Indian purser — well educated: on religion, colour question etc.: comes from
Rajputana.
21 January 1919
Little to be seen today: wind ahead but not much sea. The North Star & Cassiopia
are getting well up in the sky, & the Plough comes up about 8p.m.
22 January 1919
Running up the Gulf of Suez all day: it gradually narrowing. Some very fine stretches
of coast, ridge behind ridge of barren fawn-coloured rock with screes & V-shaped
gullies. The further hills could just be seen thro’ a faint haze but Mt.Sinai itself
invisible. Reached Suez 7p.m. Been very cold all day and serge uniforms in
evidence.
23 January 1919
Our luggage was bumped down into a lighter this morning. We got ashore about
3p.m. and had a look around Port Tewfik, at the entrance to the canal, where we had
tea & changed some money. French is the common language here, as we found it to
be at Port Said too. Train later to Suez, a dirty town with a native bazaar. Took a
‘two-horse phaeton’ to the Detail Camp where we had dinner & boarded the train at
10p.m. for Port Said. Very uncomfortable journey & quite cold.
24 January 1919
Arrived Port Said noon & found the Transit Camp a change from what we have been
accustomed to, in being well run. Port Said very cosmopolitan. The native quarter
out of bounds. One very good street with handsome shops, hotels etc.
25 January 1919
Spent most of the day in the town where there isn’t very much to do. Silk stuffs fairly
cheap but little ivory.
26 January 1919
Game of tennis with Hawkins at the Sports Club. Didn’t go to church.
28 January 1919
Embarked this forenoon on RMS Ormonde.
There was a newspaper cutting in the diary entitled
"A UNIQUE CAMPAIGN"
DISPATCH ON THE EAST AFRICAN OPERATIONS
VAGARIES OF BUSH FIGHTING
A supplement to the London Gazette contains a dispatch to the Secretary of State
for War from Lieutenant-General Sir J.L.Van Deventer, KCB, CMG, Commander-inChief, East African Force, in which the operations in East Africa from September 1 to
the conclusion of hostilities are reviewed. It is recorded that on August 30 the enemy
has been repulsed with considerable loss at Lioma, and on the 31st had barely
escaped from the converging attacks of the 2nd King’s African Rifles Column east of
that place.