Button-down shirt

Button-down shirt
by: sewingmel
Free Patterns,Ideas and Inspirations
All compliments of SewingMamas.com
You will need:
-fabric
-matching thread
-light-mid weight interfacing
-buttons or snaps
-button down shirt pattern with facings
Step 1: Cut out fabric. My pattern has (from left to right) 2 front facings, 2 collar pieces, 2
sleeves, 2 front pieces, and one back cut on fold. This shirt pattern had short sleeves, but I
just added length to make the shirt long sleeved.
Step 2: Cut interfacing. You will need 2 front facing pieces and 1 collar.
Step 3: Fuse interfacing to fabric. I prefer to use a board rather than an ironing board to fuse
interfacing. It fuses better.
Step 4: With right sides together, lay collar pieces on top of each other. Pin as needed.
Step 5: Sew the straight edges of the collar pivoting at the corners.
To Pivot:
Step 6: For this collar, my seam allowance was ¼”. I sewed until I was ¼” away from the end
of the fabric. I made sure that my needle was IN the fabric.
Step 7: Lift the presser foot.
Step 8: Rotate fabric 90 degrees to the right.
Step 9: Lower presser foot. Do NOT forget this step!
Step 10: Continue sewing according to the pattern.
Step 11: Clip corners without cutting stitched lines.
Step 12: Flip right side out.
Step 13: Using a chopstick, push out corners.
Step 14: Iron collar.
Step 15: Topstitch around sewn edges of collar.
Step 16: Pivot at corners.
Step 17: Pin fronts to back at shoulders with right sides together.
Step 18: Sew or serge shoulder seams.
Step 19: Iron shoulder seams toward back of shirt.
Step 20: Topstitch shoulder seam.
Step 21: Mark center of sleeve.
Step 22: Match center of sleeve to shoulder seam. Match end of sleeve cap to end of sleeve
opening. Pin in place.
Step 23: Continue pinning until sleeve and shirt are all matched and pinned.
Step 24: Sew or serge sleeves to shirt.
Step 25: Iron sleeve seams toward shirt.
Step 26: Topstitch shirt.
Step 27: Serge or finish bottom edge of sleeve hems.
Step 28: Crease hem folds with an iron for bottom of sleeves. Unfold.
Step 29: Pin sides of shirt from end of sleeves to end of shirt hem.
Step 30: Sew or serge pinned sides of shirt. Do NOT sew over pins!
Step 31: Finish curved edge of front facings. You can serge, zig-zag, turn under, pink, or use
bias tape.
Step 32: Finish top edge of facing by serging or zig-zagging.
Step 33: Mark center back of shirt and center of collar.
Step 34: With interfaced side of collar away from the shirt, pin collar to shirt, right sides
together, matching centers.
Step 35: Pin non-interfaced side of collar to shirt, matching symbols if given.
Step 36: Mark where your collar touches the shoulder seam.
Step 37: Serge or finish between marks on interfaced side of collar. I serged a little past the
marks.
Step 38: Cut both marked shoulder lines just to seam allowance. My seam allowance is 1/4”.
Step 39: Iron flap along seam allowance.
Step 40: Pin flap out of the way. Pin collar to shirt through all layers.
Step 41: Start pinning front facing to front of shirt over collar.
Step 42: Fold curve over hand if it gets difficult to pin. It is easier to pin a curvein a curve
than in the flat.
Step 43: Fold back top edge of front facing. I cut my front facing pieces longer so that I have
a extra room to make it look neat.
Step 44: Mark bottom hem seam allowance on facing.
Step 45: Starting at drawn hem line, start sewing facing to shirt. Remember your seam
allowance if your hem and seam allowance are different. Pivot as needed.
Step 46: If you have problems sewing the curve, raise your presser foot with your needle in
the fabric to adjust.
Step 47: Lower presser foot, and continue sewing.
Step 48: Flip collar over, and check to make sure that the other side is smooth. I have had to
resew many parts of many collars. This one has no bumps.
Step 49: Clip all corners.
Step 50: Clip curves.
Step 51: Reduce some of the bulk by trimming away some of the excess fabric.
Step 52: Serge, zig-zag, or pink edges.
Step 53: Turn right side out, and use a chopstick to press out corners.
Step 54: Iron facings and collar.
Step 55: Iron hem to desired length.
Step 56: Clip shirt to seam allowance where it meets the shoulder seam.
Step 57: Tuck seam into collar.
Step 58: Pin collar over tucked in seam.
Step 59: Sew close to the edge on the collar.
Step 60: Insert tag (optional).
Step 61: Hand sew facing top to shoulder seam.
Step 62: Sew hem. If desired, you could hand sew it.
Step 63: Fold sleeves along creased fold line.
Step 64: Hem sleeves.
Step 65: Press all hems.
Step 66: Your shirt is now ready for buttons or snaps. Install closures of choice, and your
shirt is finished.
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