HAIRCOLOR QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
Transcription
HAIRCOLOR QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE
MATRIX WorlD oF colorS MATRIX PosT-ColoR care ColoR WIth ConfIDEnCE Building confidence at every application to color perfection When we say color with confidence, we mean it. at matRIx, we make products that are easy to use and that can deliver predictable results, every time. no surprises, just confidence. ImagInE… a BRanD DEDICatED to youR SuCCESS. our mission is to serve each and every community salon and empowering you, the stylist, to create positive change for your clients. We focus on research and innovation to continuously develop new products to answer to your needs and challenges. you can be reassured that matRIx provides the best quality and best performing products out there and always at the most affordable price. Haircolor QUicK reFerence GUiDe Home maintenance to prolong the longevity of the haircolor and keep hair healthy and beautiful, prescribe a haircare system to your clients after their haircolor service. We recommend: BIolAGE affordable luxury with a natural touch, Biolage’s unique approach to professional haircare unites natural botanicals with the latest scientific technology to create gentle, high-performing formulas for healthy-looking hair and scalp. ToTAl REsulTs a professional breakthrough in care that solves visible challenges clients see and hidden challenges only an expert can diagnose, for salon-perfect results at an affordable price. When you partner with the #1 salon brand in Canada, you join a network of resources and support that will ensure your continued growth and success. you can join ClubmatRIx now and start earning points today. ask your distributor for more information and visit the website at WWW.CluBmatRIxCanaDa.Ca Biolage Color Care to prolong the depth, tone and shine of fresh salon color Biolage Rejuvathérapie Total Results Color Care for touchably soft, radiant and renewed hair totally brilliant color, even after 45 washes QUeStionS? matRIx hotlInE: 1.888.422.6879 9h00 - 17h00 monday to friday. for more technical information refer to the matRIx Coloration handbook. MATRIX HaircolorinG SyStem MATRIX color Sync MATRIX Socolor tHe SyStem Matrix color lines function in harmony as they work in a system using a common set of cream developers . Most color shades in the Color Sync and SOCOLOr portfolios can also be mixed together within their respective color lines to maximize the color result possibilities. a versatile porfolio of shades allows you to maximize creativity and do more with less. Specialty SerieS Specialty SerieS thE matRIx ColoR lInES DElIvER: Precise, predictable results that are right on target Cera-oil® conditioning complex to protect the hair fibers: Improves hair surface smoothness, reinforces hair structure and deeply conditions for up to 30 shampoos versatile color palette that covers a spectrum of needs with easy-to-use shades Rich, creamy anti-drip formulas for easy application Products made in Canada hD REDS Intense and long-lasting reds and coppers Powered by hIgh DEfInItIon ColoR tEChnology ExtRa CovERagE ShaDES Seamless coverage for up to 75% white hair Powered by ExtRa CovER tEChnology Ammonia-free, demi permanent haircolor Permanent haircolor Dedusted lightening powder ammonia-Free, Demi-permanent crème Haircolor ColoR aDDItIonS Color to boost or neutralize unwanted tones DREam.agE modern, multi-reflective colors for 100% coverage on more than 50% white hair ExtRa BlonDIng CREam Cream that provides up to one extra level of lift for lighter blondes, brighter reds and richer browns Powered by CERa DEnSIty ComPlEx permanent crème Haircolor ShEER PaStElS Sheer and multi-reflective tones Powered by CERa oIl® ComPlEx anD ColoRgRIP® DyE tEChnology Powered by CERa oIl® ComPlEx anD mICRofIllER® tEChnology Seamless, brilliant color from scalp to ends hair conditioned for up to 30 shampoos amazing shine plus silky, touchable hair Calibrated level system. mix a higher and lower level to achieve the level in between gREy’t natuRalS Classic, opaque colors for 100% coverage on more than 50% white hair BooStERS Pure tone with an extra burst of vibrancy true to tone color hair conditioned for up to 30 shampoos hi-tenacity dyes Calibrated level system. mix a higher and lower level to achieve the level in between hD REDS Intense and long-lasting reds and coppers Powered by hIgh DEfInItIon ColoR tEChnology SoRED 2-in-1 booster and highlighting creams for vibrant, intense, chromatic reds MATRIX V-liGHt MATRIX color SyStem Very FaSt, Very conDitioninG, De-DUSteD liGHtener color principleS color coDeS SKin SenSitiVity teSt Colors interact with each other in a consistent, predictable way. When you understand these interactions, you can formulate any color with complete confidence. the color wheel shows the complementary relationships of the Primary, Secondary and tertiary colors. It also shows the warm and cool colors. Complementary colors are opposite colors that create neutral browns when they are mixed. Each shade in the matRIx Color System is coded using a logical number-letter system that is easy to learn and understand. the number represents the level while the letters represent the tonal value. the speciality series Dream.age and grey’t naturals are specifically designed for more than 50% white hair coverage. their codes always contain the number 50 for this reason. It is well known that some individuals are allergic to certain food, drugs or cosmetics, including haircolor. therefore, it is vital that a professional consultation be made prior to proceeding with any color service to establish if there are any pre-existing skin sensitivities or allergies. thE onE lIghtEnER foR all youR Salon nEEDS vERy faSt! maximum lift, lifts up to 7 levels. vERy vERSatIlE! use on or off the scalp for all techniques. get clear, bright predictable lightening. vERy ConDItIonIng! Contains protective and conditioning panthenol to help protect hair as the formula lightens. ultRa lIghtS lifts up to 4 1/2 levels for maximum lightening and toning in one single step MATRIX pre-color care 3. aPPly mIxtuRE to tESt aREa using an absorbent cotton-tipped applicator. 9M 4. let tESt aREa DRy. 5. Do not CovER or disturb for 48 hours. ColoR SynC anD SoColoR SERIES CoDES SPECIalIty SERIES 1. With soap and water, WaSh a CIRCulaR aREa 2 Cm BEhInD onE EaR extending partly into the hairline. Pat dry with an absorbent cotton. 2. Prepare a test solution by mIxIng thE ExaCt ShaDE to be used with the recommended amount of developer. level tonal value for more than SPECIalIty 50% white hair level tonal value SERIES to PRoCEED: tonal value SPECIalIty tonal value SERIES DA- 509M UL- AA HD- REDS DREam agE ultRa lIghtS hI DEfInItIon 6. ExamInE thE tESt aREa aftER 48 houRS. If no reaction has occurred, proceed with the haircoloring service. If any reactions, including breathing problems, tightening of the chest, heart palpitations, light headedness, flushing, itching or bumps or swelling away from the place the product has come into contact with the skin occur during or shortly after the application of the allergy test or product, rinse immediately with lukewarm water, discontinue use and obtain medical attention immediately. alert the client not to use this or any other haircolor product again until after consulting a physician. matriX color WitH conFiDence CoLoR sYNC AND soCoLoR portFolio SHaDe CoLoR sYNC AND soCoLoR FormUlation CoLoR sYNC AND soCoLoR whiTE hAiR CovERAGE tHe 4 BaSic rUleS rUle 2 Determine the percentage of white hair using the 50% and 75% reference swatches of the matRIx SoColoR / Color Sync swatchbook. Refer to the chart below to know which Color Sync or SoColoR series are recommended for white hair coverage. CoLoR LiNEs Shade description AmoUNT of whiTE hAiR sERiEs 0% To 50% 75% To 100% 50% To 75% DREAm.AGE EXTRA CovERAGE rUle 1 Determine the client’s natural hair level using the swatches from 1 to 9 of the neutral series included in the matRIx SoColoR / Color Sync swatchbook. Check the level at the scalp and along the mid-lengths and ends. sERiEs 1 To 10 CoLoR sYNC AND soCoLoR GREY’T NATURAL NEUTRAL/CooL PRE-bLENDED sofT wARm PRE-bLENDED vibRANT PURE REfLECT vibRANT PRE-bLENDED No LEvELs* NM NW WG NA M NG Bc Gc rB N W r N AA A AV V P MM M WN W G cG Bc Br rB cc rc r rr rV Vr HD SorED rEDS Neutral Mocha Neutral Warm Warm Gold Neutral Ash Mocha Neutral Gold Brown/ Blonde copper Gold copper red Brown Neutral Warm red Neutral Ash Ash Ash Ash Violet Violet Pearl Mocha Mocha Mocha Warm Neutral Warm Gold copper Gold Brown/ Blonde copper Brown/ Blonde red red/ Brown/ Blonde copper copper red copper red red red red Violet Violet red HD-rEDS No levels* 10P 10M 10WN 10G 10cG 9P 9M 9G 9cG 8P 8M 8W 8G 8cG 8Bc 8cc 8rc 7W 7G 7cG 7Bc SorED No levels* EXTRA CovERAGE Prelightened hD REDs sERiEs 1 To 11 GREY’T NATURALs SPN SPA SPV DREAm.AGE hD REDs Ul N Ultra-light rUle 3 Determine the desired color result and choose the shade considering: 1. the level: lighter, deposit or darker 2. the tone: neutral, warm or fashion Remember that natural underlying pigments (nuP), texture, tenacity and porosity of the hair affect the result. Ul A Ul AA Ul V Ul PN Ul PA 11N 11A 510N 10N 10A 509N 9N 9A 11 Extra light Blonde Plus 11P ThE EffECT of NATURAL UNDERLYiNG PiGmENTATioN NATURAL UNDERLYiNG PiGmENTATioN CoNTRibUTioN hAiRCoLoR ToNE UsED 10 CombiNED REsULT warm warm warm-warm Neutral warm warm Cool warm Neutral Cool-Cool warm Cool 9 series CorresPondinG deVeloPers VoluMes desired results shEER PAsTELs MiXinG rAtio (C:d) Sheer Tone Deposit hD REDs 7NM DA-508M DA-508Gc 508N 508W 8N DA-507NG DA-507Bc 507N 507r 6NW 5 Medium Brown 5NM 5NW 4 DA-506NA 5WG DA-506M DA-506Bc DA-6rB 506N DA-505M 1:1 1-2-3 or 4 levels of lift 8A 7AA 7A 8AV 10V 8V 8WN 7P 7MM 7M 7rB 7cc 7r 506W 505N 6N 505r 6AA 5N 6A 6M 5A 5MM 5M 6WN 5WN 6W 5W 6G 6cG 6Bc 6Br 5G 5Bc 5Br 4G 4Bc 4Br 6rB 6rr 6rc 5rc 5r 6rV 5rr 5rV SorED-rc HD-rr SorED-r HD-rV SorED-rV 5Vr 4N 4NW Dark Brown Up to 25 6WG DA-504NA DA-4rB 504N 504W 4A 3 3N 2 2N Darkest Brown color Deposit, 8AA 10AV 7N 6 Up to 20 1:1 DA-508NA DA-509NG 7NW light Brown Up to 20 1:1 Up to 75% White Haircolor Deposit sERiEs 1 To 11 7 8WG DA-510Gc HD-cr 5-10 1:1 color Deposit EXTRA-CovERAGE 8NM Dark Blonde ProCessinG tiMe (Min.) 1:1 Tone-on-Tone, color Deposit or White Hair Blending sERiEs 1 To 10 8 Medium Blonde DA-510NG DA-509M light Blonde rUle 4 Determine the volume of matRIx Cream Developer needed to achieve the amount of lift required. 10 vol. Deposit or up to 1 level of lift 20 vol. up to 2 levels of lift 30 vol. up to 3 levels of lift 40 vol. up to 4 levels of lift Refer to the chart below for the recommended volume strengths of matRIx Creme Developers, indications on formulation and processing time recommended to use with each Color Sync and SoColoR series. Color lines DA-510NA Extra light Blonde 4M 3V 3WN 4rB 4rV 3Br 3Vr 30-45 GREY’T NATURALs White Hair Multi-reflective coverage 1:1 30-45 DREAm.AGE White Hair opaque coverage 1:1 30-45 Natural Black 1 1N 1A Black ULTRA LiGhTs 1:2 3 to 4 1 /2 levels of lift 1-2, 2-3 or 3-4 levels of lift. Varying Vibrancy depending on the Developer Volume Used. soRED hD REDs 1:1 45 15 min. (Mild Heat) +5 min. (room Temperature) ou 30 min. (room Temperature) 1:1 1-2 or 3 levels of lift ADDITIoN GolD Drabbers and Intensifiers ADDITIoN BlUE ADDITIoN VIolET BooSTEr coPPEr BooSTEr rED BooSTEr GolD LEGEND: *These shades are non-level specific. They have been positioned in line to the levels where application is recommended for optimal color intensity. Socolor color Sync Socolor eXtra BlonDinG cream anD color Sync clear are not inclUDeD in tHe portFolio cHart: siNCE ThEY ARE TooLs ThAT ARE NoT LEvEL sPECifiC AND CAN bE UsED oN ANY LEvELs wiThiN ThEiR REsPECTivE CoLoR LiNE. 30-45 foRmulatIon anD ColoR PRoCESSIng tImE may vaRy DEPEnDIng on haIR ConDItIon anD tExtuRE ColoR SerViceS hD-CR LEvEL 7 Dark blonde LEvEL 6 Light brown LEvEL 5 medium brown Ash violet violet series mocha mocha series warm warm Natural series Gold Gold or warm-Natural series brown/blonde Red brown Red series brown/blonde Copper brown Copper series Red brown Red brown series Copper Gold Copper Gold series Copper Copper Copper series + Copper booster Red Red Red series + Red booster Red violet Red violet series violet Red Red-violet series + 3v for added violet tone hD hD series UL select level and tonal series based on desired end results LEvEL 4 Dark brown PREPiGmENTATioN LEvEL 9 Light blonde 10G LEvEL 8 medium blonde 8G + 10CG LEvEL 7 Dark blonde 8G + 8CG LEvEL 6 Light brown 8G + 8RC LEvEL 5 medium brown 6CG + 8RC LEvEL 4 Dark brown 6RC LEvEL 3 Darkest brown 4Rb + 6RC LEvEL 2 Natural black 4Rb + 5 Red booster LEvEL 9 Light blonde X X X X X X LEvEL 8 medium blonde X X X X X X LEvEL 7 Dark blonde X X X X LEvEL 6 Light brown LEvEL 5 medium brown X X LEvEL 4 Dark brown X LEvEL 3 Darkest brown X LEvEL 2 Natural black LEvEL 1 black 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. X X X X X X 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. X 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 9 10 X 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. X 10 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 10 vol. 20 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. 30 vol. 20 vol. X X mixing: 2 scoops of v-light lightener + 2 oz. (60 ml) 10 vol., 20 vol. or 30 vol. matRIx Cream Developer. timing: Process v-light formula up to 50 min. Check progress every 3 to 5 min. until hair is the color of the natural underlying pigmentation at the desired level of lighteness. Rising: Rinse and neutralize with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure. no foRm of hEat Can BE uSED DuRIng PRoCESSIng tImE. Sync to tone WitH color Sync Step 1: once desired lightening level has been reached with v-light, rinse and neutralize with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure, then rinse hair and towel blot excess moisture. apply Pro-Solutionist Protopak 5+. Rinse completely and towel blot excess moisture. Step 2: SynC to tonE hair with the appropriate shade for desired end result. apply the formula to the hair and process between 5 – 10 min. Step 3: once processing time is completed, rinse and neutralize again with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure. foRmULA GUiDE foR PRE-LiGhTENED hAiR CooL REsULT NATURAL CooL REsULT PRE-LiGhTENED wARm REsULT LEvEL 10 Extra Light blonde NUP sP-A sP-v sP-N 10G + Clear (1:1) LEvEL 9 Light blonde 10 A 10v 10v + 10N (1:1) 10wN 8A + 10A (1:1) 8v + 10v (1:1) 8v + 8N (1:1) 8wN + 10wN (1:1) LEvEL 8 medium blonde LEvEL 7 Dark blonde 8A 8v 8v + 8N (1:1) 8wN LEvEL 6 Light brown 6A + 8A (1:1) 6A + 8N (1:1) 8v + 6N (1:1) 6wN + 8wN (1:1) 6A 6A + Clear (1:1) 4A + 6N (1:2) 6wN 4A + 6A (1:1) 4A+ 5N (1:1) 4A + 6N (1:1) 5wN LEvEL 5 medium brown LEvEL 4 Dark brown 1/2 in. Scalp Surface Step 1: apply from mid-lengths (5/8” (1,5 cm) away from the scalp) to ends. Color process for 15 min. Step 2: then, apply to scalp and color process for a total processing time of 35 to 45 min. Step 3: Rinse and neutralize with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure. Sync to reFreSH StanDarD retoUcH application noRmal nEW-gRoWth 1/2” (1,25 Cm) 1 1 4. Sync to coVer: Cover white hair with a natural-looking color result to hide the signs of aging. this service is recommended for clients with up to 75% of white hair. Cover white hair while respecting the client’s youthful appearance. mixing: 2 oz. (60 ml) Color Sync Extra Coverage + 2 oz. (60 ml) 20 vol. matRIx Cream Developer DEsiRED LEvEL 8 2 3. Sync to enHance: treat hair to long-lasting shine. this service adds soft, multi-reflective tones to enhance your client’s natural haircolor. mixing: 2 oz. (60 ml) Color Sync shades 1-2 levels lighter than the existing haircolor + 2 oz. (60 ml) 10 vol. matRIx Cream Developer. 7 ep St *the nuP is a reference if hair is pre-ligtened prior to an application with hD Reds 6 ep St LEvEL 2 Natural black NATURAL LEvEL LEvEL 3 Darkest brown 6. Sync to correct: add color dimension with no added stress to the hair. this service will help improve the appearance of over lightened hair without adding additional stress to it. Deposit pigment back into the hair and replace texture and depth. Refer to the chart below for corrective color formulas based on desired haircolor levels. mixing: 2 oz. (60 ml) Color Sync shade + 2 oz. (60 ml) 10 vol. matRIx Cream Developer. Process color up to 10 min. Rinse and neutralize with Colorsure. Dry hair up to 80% and apply your final desired shade(s). NATURAL LEvEL Ash or violet series 2 2 hD-RR Ash ep St hD-Rv Ash series 5 on-scalp application NUP* Neutral or violet series Ash Ash 4 off-scalp application NATURAL LEvEL 3 miD-LENTGhs AND ENDs wiTh CoLoR sYNC Neutral 1 v-LiGhT: RECommENDED DEvELoPERs bY TYPE of APPLiCATioN LEGEND 2. Sync to Spice: make a fashion statement with red or copper shades. this service is recommended for clients looking for a high intensity color. With Color Sync hD Reds, it is possible achieve powerful, electrifying fashion tones to increase haircolor vibrancy with exceptional longer-lasting clarity. Refer to the table below for haircolor results on recommended levels of haircolor after application. mixing: 2 oz. (60 ml) Color Sync hD + 2 oz. (60 ml) 10 vol. matRIx Cream Developer. NEw-GRowTh wiTh soCoLoR Socolor StanDarD VirGin Hair application lIghtEnIng 1-3 lEvElS ColoR care 1 Refer to the SynC to tonE table in the v-light section of this guide for more information on how to perform this service. liGHteninG WitH V-liGHt Determining the natural level: Refer to RulE 1 of Color Sync and SoColoR formulation. Selecting the Developer: Refer to the chart below for the recommended volume strength based on the natural haircolor level, the targeted haircolor level, and the type of application (on scalp or off scalp). ep St 1. Sync to tone: Banish yellow tones to unveil a refined, sophisticated blonde. this service is recommended for pre-lightened hair. 5. Sync to reFreSH: maintain permanent haircolor while respecting the integrity of the hair. this service is the ideal way to refresh the mid-lengths and ends of a permanent color service. Refer to the chart below for recommended Color Sync tonal series when applied to refresh SoColoR tonal series used on natural new growth. Remember that Color Sync series are within a calibrated color system, which means you can mix a higher and a lower level to achieve the level in between. mixing: 2 oz. (60 ml) Color Sync shade 1-2 levels lighter than the permanent haircolor formula + 2 oz. (60 ml) 10 vol. matRIx Cream Developer APPlICATIoNs NATURAL LEvEL 6 color Sync SiGnatUre SerViceS lIGHTENING SerViceS 2 1/ in. > 2 1/ . in 2 Scalp Surface Step 1: apply the SoColoR formula to the scalp area. Process for 25-30 min. Step 2: then, apply the SynC to REfRESh formula on mid-lengths and ends. Process for 5-15 min. for a total processing time of 30-45 min. for more details on how the Color Sync formulas recommended to match the SoColoR formulas, refer to the Color Sync Signature Services section. Step 3: Rinse and neutralize with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure. V-liGHt StanDarD on-Scalp VirGin Hair application 1. use 4-quadrant sectioning and 1/8” (0.125 cm )subsections. apply v-light formula (10 or 20 vol. only), starting 1/2” (1.25 cm) away from the scalp and pulling through the mid-lengths and ends. 2. Process until 2/3” (1.70 cm) of desired lightness is achieved. 3. using the same sectioning as in Step 1, apply the v-light formula to the scalp area. 4. Process. Refer to the v-light section of this guide for timing directions. 5. Rinse and neutralize with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure. V-liGHt StanDarD retoUcH application 1. apply v-light formula to the new growth, using only 10 or 20 vol. matRIx Cream Developer. 2. Process. Refer to the v-light section of this guide for timing directions. 3. Rinse and neutralize with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure. V-liGHt StanDarD oFF-Scalp HiGHliGHt application WitH FoilS 1. Part hair into 6 sections. Beginning in the back middle at the hairline, slice a 1/8” (0,5 cm) subsection and weave hair out. 2. Position a foil and apply v-light formula (10, 20, 30 vol. matRIx Cream Developer). Continue weaving foils throughout all 6 sections. 3. Process. Refer to the v-light section of this guide for timing directions 4. Rinse and neutralize with Pro-Solutionist Colorsure. For proFeSSional USe only total Results Pro-Solutionist: the professional-only range of technical and treatment solutions that assist the stylist performing salon services for optimal results. no StaIn: Removes haircolor stains on client’s hairline, ears and scalp. fast, easy and effective with haircoloring products. InStaCuRE: helps to even external porosity and protect the hair structure prior to chemical services. 5+ PRotoPaK: Penetrates deeply into the cortex of the hair to help repair inner damage caused by excessive chemical and thermal exposure. ColoRSuRE: gently cleanses and conditions the hair. use it after a haircolor service to neutralize all trace of alkalinety, therefore balancing the ph of the hair closer to natural ph. total tREat: Indulges dry, damaged hair with intense moisture and conditioning. only 5 min. fix to help restore softness, elasticity and shine.