Andrew Harper`s 2014 Hideaway Report

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MARCH 2014 | OUR 35TH YEAR
AndrewHarper.com
T R AV E L I N G T H E WO R L D I N S E A R C H O F T RU LY E N C H A N T I N G P L AC E S
IN THE NEWS
Spring
Spa Debut
NOWADAYS, spas have
become mandatory at
hotels with pretensions to
luxury. But the European
tradition of spa hotels
began in the mid-19th
century. The grandest of
them all, Brenners ParkHotel & Spa in Baden
Baden, Germany, dates
to 1872, when Stéphanie
les Bains, an existing
hotel, was purchased by
Anton Brenner. Spring
2014 will see the debut
of the Villa Stéphanie, a
new 54,000-square-foot
complex intended to set
an entirely new standard
for hotel spas. Brenners
Park has formed a partnership with the French
cosmetics company
Sisley. One highlight of
the new facility will be its
unique hammam. Spa
guests will be able to
relax in a private park and
a tranquil sunken garden.
BRENNERS.COM
T H IS IS S U E
SOUTH OF FRANCE
A journey through the
unspoiled heartland
of Provence
MARSEILLE
A fresh look at
France’s second city
THE ROCKIES
A road trip in western
Colorado and Utah
B AC K ROA D S F ROM AV IGNON T O A N T I BE S
Pleasures of Provence and the Riviera
F E W PL AC E S I N T H E WOR L D A R E A S R E L I A BLY C H A R M I NG A N D C ONSI S T E N T LY S U R PR I SI NG
as the south of France. Even after dozens of trips, whenever I return to Provence and the
Riviera I never fail to find a new hotel, a previously unknown village, a little restaurant, an
atmospheric church, several wines to add to my cellar, or maybe a new olive oil.
What I’ve learned, though, is that the best of the
south of France is often found off the beaten path.
And this doesn’t mean simply taking quiet country
roads instead of highways, but tracking down those
lesser-known places that the locals understandably
keep to themselves.
Arriving in Avignon on my latest trip, for
example, we visited the Musée Angladon, an
overlooked gem with several canvases by Degas,
Modigliani and Sisley, before heading to the Tavel
wine region just outside of the city. Tavel is called
the “King of Rosés” because, or so the story goes, it
was appreciated by the popes when the papacy was
based in Avignon during the 14th century. Today,
wine writers refer to Tavel as “the year-round rosé”
because it is robust enough to dispel the traditional
idea that rosés are only for summer drinking. After
a tasting at which we ordered some wines to be
shipped home, we enjoyed an excellent meal at the
warm, friendly Auberge de Tavel. This had been
recommended by an amiable winemaker with
whom we’d struck up a conversation while having
a coffee in the bar car on the TGV train from Paris.
A delicious ragout of baby artichokes was followed
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“
Aside from its historic charm, the character of the property comes
from an imaginative décor that successfully combines contemporary
furniture with local antiques.
BED/DINING ROOM PHOTOS BY CYRIL LETOURNEUR; BATH PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
La Maison d’Uzès
LOCAL CR AFTS
by cannelloni stuffed with lamb, guinea hen with
tapenade, and a superb cheese tray.
W
Ceramics
JUST FOUR MILES north
of Uzès, Saint-Quentinla-Poterie was one of
the centers of ceramics
production in southern
France for many centuries.
Today, more than 20
workshops produce
porcelain, grès (varnished
and enameled sandstone),
raku (Japanese earthenware) and faïence. The
work of local ceramicists
is displayed and sold at
the Terra Viva gallery.
14 RUE DE LA FONTAINE.
TEL. (33) 4-66-22-48-78.
GALERIE-TERRAVIVA.COM
Next door, the small,
charming Musée de la
Poterie Méditerranéenne
documents the history of
local production and also
exhibits ceramics from all
around the Mediterranean
basin. TEL. (33) 4-66-03-6586. MUSEE-POTERIE-MEDITERRANEE.COM
e then headed to Uzès, 25 miles west of
Avignon and among the most delightful
towns in the Midi. Our destination was the 12-room
Maison d’Uzès, which opened last spring in an
elegantly restored set of 17th-century stone houses.
Since most of the surrounding streets are pedestrianonly, we left the car at a nearby garage and walked
over to the hotel. There, we were welcomed with
cool hand towels and iced tea, which we sipped in
the small, stylishly appointed salon adjacent to the
reception area. The heart of the house — despite
offering hotel amenities and services of a high
standard, it really does feel more like a house — is
a magnificent Renaissance stone staircase. Aside
from the historic charm of the honey-colored stone
walls, huge overhead beams and tomette (terra-cotta
tile) floors, the character of the property comes from
an imaginative décor that successfully combines
contemporary furniture with local antiques.
Our room was located up a stone stairway on
the third floor. (Those with mobility issues should
inform the management, so that they will be given
rooms at the back of the hotel, where there is an
elevator.) Late in the afternoon, sun streamed into
the high-ceilinged space, which was decorated in
soothing tones of ivory and pale yellow. In a sitting
area, several upholstered armchairs stood in front
of a handsome old fireplace. The large bath came
with an oversize claw-foot tub, a separate shower
and the same powdery-soft old tomettes underfoot.
Before dinner, we went for an aperitif at Terroirs,
a popular wine bar overlooking the Place aux Herbes.
It was while sipping a nice, flinty local white wine
2 hideaway report | March 2014 that it occurred to me that I could very happily live
in Uzès. Back at the hotel, chef Oscar Garcia served
an outstanding meal of brandade de morue (salt
cod with whipped potatoes) with squid’s ink and
red peppers, guinea hen stewed in red wine with
crayfish, and veal roasted with local black olives.
The hotel’s principal amenity is a small spa in the
vaulted cellars. Aside from the friendly service,
elegant décor and well-considered comfort, what I
like most about this place is the ideal setting from
which to ponder the beauty of Uzès itself.
The best way to enjoy the nearby Pont du Gard,
the famous stone aqueduct that was built in the
first century to supply the city of Nîmes, is to be
there when the site opens. So we rose early, and on
a quiet morning, we were able to contemplate this
spectacular structure almost alone. We then headed
southeast for 25 miles to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
It was market day (Wednesday) in this enchanting
little town, and we wandered through bustling
stalls selling olive oil and lavender. Then, after a
delicious lunch of salt cod with boiled vegetables,
potatoes and aioli at an old favorite, Le Bistrot du
Paradou, we headed east on a web of back roads to
Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume to visit its superb
14th-century Gothic basilica, dedicated to Mary
Magdalene. The soaring nave is ornamented with
the coats of arms of the counts of Provence, and the
interior speaks of an ancient land, one indifferent
to the ebb and flow of tourism.
C
ontinuing our journey, we came to the little
village of La Celle just outside of Draguignan.
Here, 15 years ago, Alain Ducasse took over an oldfashioned hotel, Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La
Celle, a former 12th-century Benedictine abbey,
and transformed it into a relaxed but stylish 10room auberge. The hotel was once a favorite retreat
CENTRE
of President Charles de
Gaulle, so I couldn’t resist
France
booking his preferred “Lucrèce
de Barras,” a spacious
suite with a beamed ceiling and ancient tile floors
spread with Brussels carpets. A framed etching of
the general, who liked to seclude himself here to
write, made us feel as though he’d just stepped out
for a stroll in the large garden. With a comfortable
bed made up with good linens, plus a desk, a pair
of armchairs in front of the fireplace and a large
dressing area, we fell for the room immediately,
though its small but serviceable bath needed some
updating. The inn struck us as an alluring and
unselfconscious distillation of everything there is
to like about Provence.
Not surprisingly, since this property is part of
LIMOUSIN
the Ducasse empire, the restaurant proved to be
excellent. So, after a drink in the pleasant bar, we
dined on the large terrace outside and thoroughly
enjoyed the cooking of chef Benoit Witz. Risotto
with squid’s ink was followed by John Dory with
AUVERGNE
fennel and a condiment of preserved lemons. The
service was attentive, and the wine list offered a
fine selection of local Côtes de Provence.
T hough the vineyards of the Var — the
department of Provence where La Celle is located
— are best known for producing rosé wines, I’ve
also enjoyed some excellent whites and reds from
local winemakers. The following day, we set out early
to do a tasting or two, and to visit the Cistercian
abbey of Le Thoronet. Surrounded by lavender
fields, the abbey, which was built during the 12th
and 13th centuries, has architecture of strong and
moving purity, which inspires an appropriately
contemplative mood. After stopping by the Château
de Saint-Martin
MIDI PYRENEES in Taradeau to pick up a couple of
bottles of its excellent 2011 Grande Réserve Cru
Classé red — a Cabernet Sauvignon-Grenache-SyrahMourvèdre blend that teams beautifully with a good
steak — we did a tasting at the elegant Château
de Berne in Lorgues. We arrived in the charming
hilltop village of Tourtour in time for lunch at La
Table, the best restaurant in the village, where I
strongly recommend the foie gras, followed by the
Gulf of Lions
roasted swordfish with cèpes risotto.
Just outside of Tourtour, the Domaine de la
Baume is a charming new 15-room hotel surrounded
by the former 100-acre estate of painter Bernard
Buffet. The creation of hotelier Jocelyne Sibuet —
known for Les Fermes de Marie in Megève in the
Chef
Benoit
Witz
BOURGOGNE
FRANCHECOMTE
Switzerland
Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle
POOL/CHEF PHOTOS BY DAVID BORDES
ROOM PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
HOTELS REVIEWED RATING
FRANCE
1
2
3
4
5
6
RHONE-ALPES
La Mirande 96
La Maison d’Uzès 94
Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle 93
Domaine de la Baume 93
Hôtel Belles Rives 94
InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu 90
LANGUEDOCROUSSILLON
2
TAVEL
UZES
1
NIMES
SAINT-REMYDE-PROVENCE
ARLES
MONACO
SAINT-MAXIMINLA-SAINTE-BAUME
4 TOURTOUR
6
MARSEILLE
3
LA CELLE
TARADEAU
LE THORONET
0
0
20
20
ITALY
PROVENCE-ALPESCOTE D'AZUR
AVIGNON
NICE
5
CAGNESSUR-MER
ANTIBES
40 MI
40 KM
Mediterranean Sea
March 2014 | hideaway report 3
French Alps — the property was inspired by 18thcentury aristocratic Provençal interiors. On arrival,
I was immediately taken with its atmosphere of
seclusion and the abundance of venues in which
to relax with a book: the graveled terrace under
the plane trees at the front of the hotel; the library
with its cushy sofas; and the pool deck, tucked away
below a formal garden.
Done up in chintz, our good-looking room
came with a separate sitting area furnished with an
upholstered love seat and armchairs; French doors
opened onto a small balcony with fine views over
the formal gardens; and the bath was fitted with
both a claw-foot tub and a shower. After settling
in, I accepted a standing invitation for a tour, and
was taken to see both the clay tennis court and a
waterfall in the forest near the spa cabin. After a
massage, I helped myself to the iced tea and pastries
served on the terrace every afternoon, and then
spent an hour reading and listening to the cicadas.
Ultimately, this is a very pleasant and peaceful
hotel. Its single disadvantage is that rooms are sold
as part of a package that includes breakfast, an
aperitif and dinner with wine, mineral water and
Domaine de la Baume, near Tourtour
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
4 hideaway report | March 2014 SHOPPI NG
Antibes
Glassware
THE DISTINCTIVE glassware made by hand at
La Verrerie de Biot (The
Biot Glassworks) is found on
the best tables everywhere
in the south of France. It is
immediately recognizable
from the hundreds of tiny
bubbles trapped between
two layers of solid glass.
Located five miles northwest
of Antibes, the glassworks
was founded nearly 60
years ago. The opportunity
to watch the glassblowers
at work and also to buy a
full range of their products
makes this a fascinating
stop and an ideal place to
find presents and souvenirs.
CHEMIN DES COMBES, BIOT.
TEL. (33) 4-93-65-03-00.
VERRERIEBIOT.COM
coffee. Though the kitchen is better than average,
this all-inclusive pricing makes it unlikely that anyone
would want to stay for more than a night or two.
The following morning, after a well-served
breakfast on the terrace, we set off for Cagnes-surMer, 90 minutes away, to visit the Musée Renoir. This
reopened last November after a renovation that deftly
enhanced the delicate Belle Epoque atmosphere
of the painter’s stone residence, which is set on a
hillside surrounded by citrus trees. The 14 original
canvases on display were even more interesting for
being shown in this intimate personal setting, and
the play of light on the surrounding gardens offered
an intriguing window into Renoir’s inspiration.
A
s I can never go to the south of France without
at least one dip in the Mediterranean, I had
decided to conclude my journey in Juan-les-Pins, on
the coast south of Antibes. Like the Renoir museum,
the 43-room Hôtel Belles Rives evokes a quieter,
palmier era on the Riviera. It is housed within an
old stone villa where F. Scott Fitzgerald lived in
1926 while working on “Tender Is the Night,” and
its private jetty is one of the more peaceful places
to relax on this often-hectic coastline.
The young woman at the front desk proved
delightful, and we loved our corner room with two
balconies that offered superb sea views. The lively
décor, including art deco armchairs upholstered
in a zebra print, was appropriate to this Jazz Age
property, and the well-appointed bath came with
a separate tub and shower. Spacious public rooms,
including a piano bar, were also decorated with
original art deco pieces in a ’20s-inspired theme.
Happily settled on the swimming pontoon
with a well-earned cocktail, we found ourselves in
conversation with an Ohio college president and
her husband, and a financier and his wife from New
York. “What I love about this place is the history, the
setting, the service and the fact that it’s a comfortable,
old-fashioned French hotel without any silly frills
like pillow menus,” the college president remarked.
I felt no need to disagree with a word. “And the new
chef is terrific, too.” So that night, we dined on the
seaside terrace of La Passagère restaurant, where
chef Yoric Tieche (formerly of Le Meurice in Paris)
provided foie gras with cèpes, black sea bass with
cockles and fresh herbs, dark chocolate soufflé and
an excellent white wine made by the monks at the
Abbaye de Lérins on the island of Saint-Honorat near
Cannes. Tender was the night, indeed. But then, it
so often is in the south of France. H
Hôtel Belles Rives, Juan-les-Pins
“
The Hôtel Belles Rives is housed
within an old stone villa where F. Scott
Fitzgerald lived while working on
‘Tender Is the Night,’ and its jetty is
one of the more peaceful places
to relax on this often-hectic coastline.
H O T E L S AT A G L A N C E
La Maison d’Uzès A94
Details of our room at Hôtel Belles Rives
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
L I K E Warm, peaceful and relaxed atmosphere; excellent restaurant overseen by talented chef Oscar Garcia; pleasant
spa. D I S L I K E Access to the hotel by car is tricky because of pedestrian areas, and parking is in a local garage. G O O D T O
K N O W For a good casual meal and a change from French cuisine, head for Via Curti, an Italian restaurant with a friendly
Neapolitan owner and a shaded garden terrace, just a five-minute walk from the hotel. ROOM, $335-$640; SUITE, FROM $680.
18 RUE DU DOCTEUR BLANCHARD, UZES. TEL. (33) 4-66-20-07-00. LAMAISONDUZES.FR Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de La Celle A93
L I K E Gracious hospitality; excellent cooking; setting in a small, peaceful village. D I S L I K E Baths are adequate but in need
of updating, with showers over tubs. G O O D T O K N O W Just across the street from the hotel, the Café du Midi is a good
place for a salad and a glass of wine when all you want is a simple meal. SUPERIOR ROOM, $505; JUNIOR SUITE, $670. 10 PLACE
GENERAL DE GAULLE, LA CELLE. TEL. (33) 4-98-05-14-14. ABBAYE-CELLE.COM Domaine de la Baume A93
L I K E Secluded setting; magnificently landscaped grounds; beautifully decorated accommodations. D I S L I K E The menu
in the hotel’s dining room is limited, as is the wine list, and room rates are high. G O O D T O K N O W Tourtour is a center of
truffle production in season (November-January); nearby Salernes is a major pottery-producing town. DELUXE ROOM, FROM
$695; SUITE, FROM $885. 2071 ROUTE D’AUPS, TOURTOUR. TEL. (33) 4-57-74-74-74. EN.DOMAINE-DELABAUME.COM Hôtel Belles Rives A94
L I K E Spectacular location at the edge of the Mediterranean; friendly and efficient service; historical associations with
F. Scott Fitzgerald. D I S L I K E Expensive breakfast; the ridiculous charge for a sun lounger. G O O D T O K N O W You can use
the pool, health club and hammam at the Belles Rives’ sister hotel, the nearby Hôtel Juana, free. CLASSIC SEAVIEW ROOM, $880;
DELUXE SEAVIEW ROOM, $1,245. 33 BOULEVARD EDOUARD BAUDOIN, JUAN-LES-PINS. TEL. (33) 4-93-61-02-79. BELLESRIVES.COM a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information about all of my favorite
A preceding
hotels in France.
March 2014 | hideaway report 5
R E T U R N T O A VAUC LUSE C L A S SIC
A Civilized Oasis in the Heart of Avignon
HIDDEN ON A TR ANQUIL SIDE STREET BEHIND
the Palace of the Popes, La Mirande (A96)
is one of the most reliably enchanting hotels
in the world and a place to which I return
again and again with a renewed expectation
of pleasure.
The 27-room property occupies a biscuit-colored
stone building that was once owned by the Emperor
Napoleon III’s doctor. Its historic pedigree is also
derived from a stately 17th-century façade and a
magnificent 14th-century dining room. Aside from
its peaceful location, the attributes of the hotel
that I particularly appreciate are the consistently
gracious service, the fine restaurant and the
profound sense of place.
The rooms are decorated in a traditional
Provençal style, with China trade prints or toile de
Jouy fabrics on the walls, antique furniture, and
painted wooden bed frames and side tables. Sisal
rugs cover the polished parquet or terra-cotta floors.
One of the great delights of the place is listening
to church bells through open windows at night and
then waking to the sound of birdsong from the lovely
garden, planted with lavender and rosebushes. (The
best views of the garden are from the new Deluxe
Rooms in the recently completed addition to the
hotel.) Baths come with high-quality replicas of
19th-century fixtures, and most have soaking tubs
as well as showers.
In addition to enjoying chef Jean-Claude
Aubertin’s excellent cooking in the formal dining
room — don’t miss his roasted Provençal lamb with
vegetable terrine, since it’s not only delicious but a
fine excuse (as though one were needed) to order
a good bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape — I always
relish a table d’hôte dinner served in the old kitchen.
I recommend this convivial meal, since the setting is
beautiful and the occasion offers a good opportunity
to chat with other hotel guests, most of whom are
worldly and well-traveled.
The hotel also offers excellent hands-on cooking
lessons. Chefs lead guests to the local market, help
them to select the best ingredients and then, back
at the hotel, to cook a Provençal meal. La Mirande
may lack a pool and a spa, but I am invariably content
with a glass of rosé in the fragrant garden at the end
of a warm summer afternoon. H
6 hideaway report | March 2014 La Mirande, Avignon
New Restaurants in the South of France
NOT SURPRISINGLY, THE SOUTH OF FRANCE attracts many of the best young
chefs in the country when they decide to open their own restaurants. The excellent local
produce and wines, the pleasant climate and an affluent clientele of both locals and visitors all contribute to the allure. Here are some of the new places we enjoyed most.
L’Armoise
Chef Laurent Parrinello cooked at La Chèvre d’Or in Eze and the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc
before setting up shop with this small and charming bistro in the Old Town of Antibes.
The Mediterranean cuisine that emerges from his open kitchen has made it a local
favorite. Expect dishes such as arugula risotto, and half-salted cod steak with grilled baby
onions and chorizo. And don’t miss the local goat cheese. 2 RUE DE LA TORRAQUE, ANTIBES.
TEL. (33) 4-92-94-96-13.
La Table 2 Julien
Just a few miles outside of Uzès, chef Julien Lavandet and his partner Jennifer Henriksen
have created a delightful and deservedly popular restaurant with excellent market-driven
Provençal cooking. The menu changes regularly, but dishes such as herb-garnished red
tuna and shrimp tartare, and yellow pollock with Swiss chard, artichokes and spinach
show off his style. Several large terraces provide venues for fine-weather dining. 12 ROUTE
D’UZES, MONTAREN-ET-SAINT-MEDIERS. TEL. (33) 4-66-03-75-38.
Jan
South African-born chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s casually elegant new restaurant has become a hit in Nice because of his precise and original cooking. The menu follows
the seasons, but dishes such as grilled scallops with cauliflower velouté, and a beignet
of smoked haddock and guinea hen with raisin-garnished pumpkin purée and pancetta
panna cotta are representative. The service is excellent. 12 RUE LASCARIS, NICE. TEL. (33) 4-9719-32-23. RESTAURANTJAN.COM
Le 46
This friendly and casual bar à vin near the Palace of the Popes in Avignon is an excellent
address for lunch or a light dinner. Owners Nicolas Martin and Véronique Bonnemer know
their wines and serve a good selection by the glass. I especially recommend their take on
shrimp tempura, and the lamb chops with pea purée. 46 RUE DE LA BALANCE, AVIGNON. TEL.
(33) 4-90-85-24-83. LE46AVIGNON.COM
A GR I T T Y P ORT R E I N V E N T E D
The Growing Sophistication of Marseille
A F T E R M A N Y Y E A R S , I ’ V E H A D A S E R IO U S
change of heart about Marseille, France’s
second city. It’s one of those places people
either love or hate, with detractors outnumbering admirers, so I’ve long refrained
from offering a judgment.
“
Marseille is
finally shedding its
rough-and-tumble
image and finding
its place in the sun
as a vibrant and
exciting city.
Built in a natural amphitheater around one of
the world’s great ports, it has a fascinating history,
some superb architecture and fine museums. On the
other hand, it lacks the finesse that is often associated
with urban life in France, and for many years, its
reputation has been tarnished by associations with
the Mafia and the drug trade, famously dramatized
in the film “The French Connection.” Now, though,
Marseille is finally shedding its rough-and-tumble
The view from our private terrace
at InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu
PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
H O T E L S AT A G L A N C E
InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu A90
L I K E Spectacular views over Marseille (reserve a room with a view), private terraces and the excellent
restaurant, Alcyone. D I S L I K E No outdoor swimming pool; monochromatic modern room décors. G O O D
T O K N O W Just a short walk from the hotel, Compagnie de Provence (1 rue Caisserie) is a great place
to shop for traditionally made savon (soap) de Marseille and bath products, which make ideal gifts and
souvenirs. The fig-leaf- and olive-and-lavender-scented products are a great way to bring Provence
back home. DELUXE KING HARBOR VIEW, $470; JUNIOR SUITE HARBOR VIEW TERRACE, $980. 1 PLACE DAVIEL,
MARSEILLE. TEL. (33) 4-13-42-42-42. IHG.COM
a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information about
A preceding
all of my favorite hotels in France.
image and finding its place in the sun as a vibrant and
exciting city. Last year, it was a European Capital of
Culture, and not only did downtown areas get major
overhauls, but several outstanding museums opened,
along with a fine hotel and many new restaurants.
True, you still won’t mistake Marseille for SaintGermain-des-Prés — it remains a big, busy port with
an ethnic stewpot of a population — but the locals
are friendlier than they may seem at first, and the
city now warrants two or three days of exploration
by more adventurous travelers. And at long last, it
has a better-than-average hotel, the newly opened
InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu,
which occupies a restored 18th-century former
hospital building.
Although not everything about this 194-room
property is perfect — it doesn’t have an outdoor pool,
and the somber color schemes of the contemporary
décors can seem less than inspiring — I loved
spending time on my private balcony staring out at
the harbor and the neo-Byzantine church of NotreDame de la Garde on a distant hillside overlooking
the city. The service is prompt; the rooms are
comfortable; and the two restaurants by talented chef
Lionel Levy are excellent. Les Fenêtres is a traditional
brasserie serving Mediterranean dishes, and Alcyone
offers “contemporary and creative” cuisine against
a striking backdrop of the Vieux-Port, where the
Greeks founded the city in 600 B.C. The lively Capian
bar provides an agreeable venue for a digestif, and
when the weather’s good, drinks are served outside
on a spectacular stone-paved terrace. A Clarins spa
features an indoor pool, a hammam, saunas and six
treatment rooms. This hotel also offers a convenient
location and on-site parking, which is a huge help
to anyone touring Provence by car.
Before now, I’ve struggled to find a satisfactory
base in Marseille. I’ve tried the historic Grand Hotel
Beauvau overlooking the Vieux-Port because it is
pleasantly old-fashioned and offers great views, a
convenient location and a long and illustrious past
(many writers and artists have stayed here). It is
not a luxury hotel, however, and neither is the city’s
single Relais & Châteaux property, Le Petit Nice,
which is run by Gérald Passédat, Marseille’s only
three-star chef. I also find it overpriced, stuffy and
inconveniently located. During the summer, I’ve
also given my patronage to the Sofitel Marseille
March 2014 | hideaway report 7
Skybridge to the new museum complex
PHOTO BY AGNES MELLON
C U LT U R E
Mediterranean Civilizations Museum
LOCATED AT THE ENTRANCE to Marseille’s Old Port, the ponderously named Musée
des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée (MuCEM) is the boldest architectural
innovation in Marseille since the sloping glass skyscraper by London-based Zaha Hadid —
a new headquarters for shipping company CMA CGM — arose on the waterfront in 2010.
The museum was designed by French architect Rudy Ricciotti, and it joins the historic
Fort Saint-Jean to two elegant modern pavilions in a complex that was the focal point of
Marseille’s year as European Capital of Culture in 2013. The mission of the museum is to
examine the art and cultural interactions of the countries around the Mediterranean, and
somewhat surprisingly — the subject is complex, to say the least — it does so successfully, with a fascinating set of permanent exhibits and regularly changing displays. The
showstopper, however, is the main building itself: a glass structure sheathed in a lacelike concrete envelope that creates a remarkable play of shadow and light in the interior
spaces. 1 ESPLANADE DU J4. TEL. (33) 4-84-35-13-13. MUCEM.ORG
The museum is hugely popular, so avoid long lines by going early in the day. Plan on
lunch at chef Gérald Passédat’s crow’s nest restaurant, Le Môle Passédat (La Table).
There, you will enjoy very good modern Mediterranean cooking, with dishes such as
dressed crab with harissa (the North African hot sauce), and sea bass with sautéed
fennel. RESERVATIONS BY INTERNET ONLY: RESERVATION.LEMOLE-PASSEDAT.COM
L’Epuisette
Le Grain de Sel
For excellent southern
French cooking, don’t miss
this Marseille institution,
perched on rock at the
entrance to the old port
of Vallon des Auffes. Chef
Guillaume Sourrieu makes a
superb fish soup, along with
more elaborate dishes such
as sea bass in caviar butter,
John Dory with Swiss
chard, gnocchi and black
olive sauce, and chocolate
soufflé with black-pepper
ice cream. VALLON DES
Many of the best new tables
are simple little places, a
reflection of the Marseillais
dislike of formality and
pretension, and one of
my favorites is Le Grain
de Sel, located on a side
street near the Vieux-Port
and perfect for lunch. The
chalkboard menu changes
regularly, but runs to dishes
such as green gazpacho
with baby clams, and roast
veal with polenta and
anchovies.
PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
AUFFES. TEL. (33) 4-91-52-17-82.
39 RUE DE LA PAIX-MARCEL-

L-EPUISETTE.FR
PAUL. TEL. (33) 4-91-54-47-30.
G A S T RONOM Y
Best of the Bistros
MARSEILLE IS IN THE MIDST of a restaurant boom.
Formerly, the city had a reputation for good pizza (go
to Chez Vincent, 25 RUE GLANDEVES, TEL. [33] 4-91-33-9678) and bouillabaisse (the best is at Restaurant Chez
Michel, 6 RUE DES CATALANS, TEL. [33] 4-91-52-30-63), but
there is now an excellent selection of small bistros.
La Boîte à
Sardine
Vieux Port, which has a commanding location, a
good restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool.
But it’s not within easy walking distance of the
sights you’ll most likely want to see, so, in the end,
the InterContinental really is the best bet, with the
important caveat that you book a room (Executive
Room or Junior Suite) with a harbor view and
private terrace.
In addition to taking an excursion by boat to
view the calanques, the dramatic white cliffs and
fjord-like coves just west of the city, a visitor to
Marseille should be sure to see the impressively
renovated Musée d’Histoire de Marseille and the new
MuCEM, a spectacular museum of Mediterranean
civilizations that opened last summer at the entrance
to the Old Port (see box). Marseille has dozens of
other great little museums, though, and a special
favorite of mine is the time-capsule-like Musée
Grobet-Labadié, which occupies the 19th-century
mansion of the wealthy merchant Louis Grobet and
displays the collection of medieval, Renaissance and
19th-century art that his widow donated to the city.
What is really charming about this place, however,
is that it serves as a sort of living bookmark to the
tastes and lifestyle of the Marseille bourgeoisie
during the 19th century, when the city was booming
after the opening of the Suez Canal and trade was
expanding with France’s burgeoning colonial empire.
The magnificent 19th-century Palais Longchamp also
houses first-rate exhibitions and is worth visiting for
its flamboyant architecture alone. Its collection of
paintings includes works by David, Courbet, Corot
and Millet. And the surrounding park is listed by the
French Ministry of Culture as one of the Remarkable
Gardens of France. H
For a terrific catch-ofthe-day menu in this
seafood-loving city, try this
casual and authentic place.
Aside from superb fish from
boats operating out of the
port, it offers a spectacular
setting overlooking the
Mediterranean from a
craggy promontory.
7 BOULEVARD DE LA
Pasta with shellfish
at Le Grain de Sel
LIBERATION. TEL. (33)
4-91-50-95-95.
LABOITEASARDINE.COM
8 hideaway report | March 2014 T OU R I NG W E S T E R N COL OR A D O A N D E A S T E R N U TA H
A Drive Through the Splendor of the Rockies
C L A S SIC U PDAT E
Mountain
Refuge
View from Telluride’s Town Park
PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
H AV I N G TA K E N S E V E R A L R E C E N T T R I P S T O C E N T R A L C O L O R A D O , I D E C I D E D O N T H I S
occasion to head farther west and to explore some famous national parks that I hadn’t visited
in years. Our itinerary formed a rough ellipse, from the airport at Grand Junction to near the
border of New Mexico and back north through eastern Utah. This route took us through
an extraordinary variety of stirring landscapes, from red rock mesas to snowcapped peaks.
W
e began our journey by driving through
Colorado National Monument before
connecting to state Highway 141, part of the
Unaweep-Tabeguache Scenic and Historic Byway.
This well-maintained road becomes increasingly
dramatic as it winds southwest along a gorge bounded
by ever-taller canyon walls, ridges and mesas. In the
middle of this splendor, towered over by the immense
sandstone Palisade, stands the recently renovated
.
Gateway Canyons Resort. Sincer a2011,
this 60do R
o lo
room property has been managedC by Noble House,
ARCHES
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COLORADO
NATIONAL
MONUMENT
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CRAWFORD
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SAN JUAN
NATIONAL
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so
COLORADO
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o re
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ni
BLACK CANYON OF
THE GUNNISON
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UNCOMPAHGRE
NATIONAL
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100 MI
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50
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NEW MEXICO
the same company that runs Little Palm Island and
the WaterColor Inn. I hoped Gateway would be
the equal of these fine resorts, and in many ways, I
found the property very appealing. Memorable views
extend in every direction, though inexplicably few
of the accommodations orient themselves toward
the Palisade. We happily explored some of the
hiking trails behind the property with an Adventure
Center staff member infectiously passionate about
his work, and later took a trail ride with a rodeo
barrel rider who led us through sweeping meadows
and picturesque stands of cottonwood and aspen.
But our stay, alas, was not free of problems. Most
annoying, the trail ride required four conversations
to arrange: the concierge, the front desk, the
Adventure Center and finally the stables. At a resort
charging between $500 and $1,600 per night (not
including an outrageous 10 percent resort fee), it
was irritating to be passed from one staff member to
another. Our accommodations did little to assuage
the sense that our pockets had been picked. We
opted for the year-old Kayenta Lodge as opposed
to a room in the original (and less expensive) Kiva
Lodge next door. Our Kayenta Premium Suite
(201) had the best aspect of any room in either
LOCATED AT THE END of
a remote box canyon and
surrounded by 13,000foot peaks, Colorado’s
Smith Fork Ranch (A97 )
is almost the definition of
a Rocky Mountain hideaway. The nearest town,
Crawford, seems to exist
in a time warp. The ranch
was first homesteaded
in the 1880s, though the
surviving buildings are
mostly of a later date.
This once-dilapidated
enclave has been lovingly
restored, and decorated
with a refined sensibility.
Accommodations consist
of three separate cabins
and two guesthouses.
The River House lodgings
are particularly desirable.
Dinners are occasions
of serious gastronomic
intent and feature local
lamb, beef, venison
and trout. Most days
are spent in the saddle.
Alternatively, guides
escort hikers through the
majestic Black Canyon
of the Gunnison National
Park. Trout anglers have
access to three miles
of crystal-clear stream.
Smith Fork Ranch is a
civilized retreat that
inspires nostalgia for the
Old West and the values
of a more innocent age.
SMITHFORKRANCH.COM
March 2014 | hideaway report 9
building, and was located on the second floor with
a balcony, warmed by a gas fire bowl, facing the
Palisade. A double-sided gas fireplace inside kept
the living room and bedroom cozy. As impressed
as I was by the impeccable housekeeping, evidence
of cost-cutting could be seen everywhere, from the
plastic soaking tub to the faux-leather ottomans to
the ugly carpet, obviously chosen for its ability to
hide stains. There was no turndown service. And
though it was possible to arrange for room service,
in practice this involved going to the restaurant to
place an order for delivery, since the suite lacked
any menus. The cuisine also proved to be uneven
in both the formal restaurant and the casual pub.
In general, service was unfailingly warm
and engaging, but the staff members seemed
to lack training in luxury hospitality, and the
accommodations did not live up to their rates. I
very much enjoyed the activities and the beautiful
surroundings, but overall, the resort is a poor value
for the money.
D
riving southeast for just over 100 miles, we
came to Telluride, a former silver mining
town, at an elevation of 8,750 feet. This is now one
of Colorado’s most dramatic ski resorts, overlooked
by 14,000-foot mountains. Ideally situated at the
edge of the historic center, the Hotel Columbia
is a contemporary 21-room property that houses
COSMOpolitan, one of Telluride’s best restaurants
(see below). Despite its in-town location, the hotel
is convenient for skiers, as the free gondola leading
Dining
Discoveries
in Majestic
Telluride
V I T IC U LT U R E
Tasting Notes
COLORADO MAY SEEM
an unlikely place to grow
wine grapes, but Sutcliffe
Vineyards now produces
serious wines. John Sutcliffe
became a winemaker by
accident, initially planting
grapes for aesthetic
reasons. His winery outside
of Cortez now has some 36
acres of organic vineyards.
I enjoyed the characterful
Sauvignon Blanc and the
refreshing Riesling, but
it was the creamy fruit of
the reds that really caught
my attention. The Petit
Verdot in particular tasted
wonderfully rich. Dunton
Hot Springs serves some
Sutcliffe wines at dinner, but
you can also try them at the
winery or in the Durango
tasting room.
SUTCLIFFEWINES.COM
up to the ski hub of Mountain Village is right across
the street.
Before our arrival, the efficient concierge had
confirmed dinner reservations, as well as a 4x4
excursion. The staff further endeared itself to me
at check-in. Unprompted, the friendly woman at the
front desk confided that she thought the $20 per-day
parking fee was too high, and changed it to $10. We
ascended to our top-floor Premium Hot Tub Suite,
which at first glance seemed very appealing, done
in muted tones of gray, beige and brown. The spare,
dormered bedroom had a gas fireplace and a balcony
overlooking the gondola; the travertine-clad bath
provided a spacious shower stall. I didn’t care for
the slanted ceilings of the living room, but it offered
a variety of comfortable seating choices, including
a leather-upholstered sofa. Most remarkable was
the suite’s mountainview terrace, with a table and
chairs and a four-person Jacuzzi.
It was bliss sitting in the hot tub with glasses of
wine, watching the sunlight soften and dim on the
mountains. Regrettably, this experience was marred
by the sloppy housekeeping. The area surrounding
the Jacuzzi was dirty, as was the wall of the shower.
And later, as we were attempting to go to sleep, we
became painfully aware of the room’s inadequate
soundproofing. We checked out of the Hotel Columbia
with few regrets.
I
was confident that our next stay would go more
smoothly. Our last visit to Dunton Hot Springs
had been delightful, and I looked forward to trying
COSMOpolitan
Attached to the Hotel Columbia, overlooking the gondola to Mountain Village, this contemporary American
restaurant incorporates local ingredients in as many dishes as possible. My appetizer of goat-cheese burrata
came with heirloom tomatoes, pumpkin seeds, savory pumpkin-seed oil and arugula. The buffalo tenderloin
that followed was very flavorful, and was accompanied by risotto studded with foraged porcini mushrooms.
A short but well-chosen wine list focuses on California, France and Italy. 300 WEST SAN JUAN AVENUE. TEL. (970)
728-1292. COSMOTELLURIDE.COM
221 South Oak
This former house a short walk from the Hotel Columbia has no view of note, but it ranks as one of Telluride’s
leading restaurants. In a cozy space decorated with bright landscapes, we started with a selection of housemade sausages, of which the sweet and savory chicken-cranberry and the Asian-inflected duck-mushroom
versions were especially delicious. I also relished my main course of Colorado striped bass, served with meaty
mushrooms and crunchy haricots verts. 221 SOUTH OAK STREET. TEL. (970) 728-9507. 221SOUTHOAK.COM
Rustico Ristorante
Citrus-cured salmon served with
crunchy white cabbage and tangy
Borettane onions at Rustico.
PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
10 hideaway report | March 2014 We enjoyed a fine Italian lunch at this classic restaurant on Colorado Avenue, Telluride’s main commercial
street. I particularly enjoyed a plate of citrus-cured salmon served with crunchy white cabbage and tangy
Borettane onions. The steep $29 price tag of the homemade tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms was less
palatable. But I would return just to take advantage of the impressively broad selection of Italian wines.
I ordered a sprightly Picollo Gavi di Gavi, and a lush La Cappuccina “Arzimo” Passito for dessert. 114 EAST
COLORADO AVENUE. TEL. (970) 728-4046. RUSTICORISTORANTE.COM
out its new luxury tented camp, Cresto Ranch,
set four miles to the south. This eight-tent property
occupies a tranquil expanse of meadow, forest and
mountain, and overlooks a fine trout stream. On
arrival, we were escorted to “Brook,” a River Tent,
and before unpacking, we sat listening to the sound
of the rushing water. Mountain Tents purport to
have “spectacular views,” but trees can obscure the
panoramas. “El Diente,” at the far end of the row,
offers the best combination of privacy and views,
while “Brook” is the most favorably sited River Tent.
Inside, the tents exhibit rugged good taste, and
staying in them requires little sacrifice of comfort.
Ours came with a pine-framed king bed (twin-bedded
tents are also available), cowhide rugs and pine
nightstands topped with elegant glass lamps. In back,
the tent opened to a full slate-floored bath, complete
with hot water heater, shower/tub combination and
vanities topped with quartz counters. The landline
telephone and Wi-Fi dispelled any lingering sense
of roughing it.
We took our breakfasts and lunches in what
used to be a farmhouse, decorated now with a
woodburning fireplace, communal dining tables and
plaid sofas. The weather was warm enough to sit at
the picnic tables outside. Dinners were at Dunton,
where we enjoyed dishes such as Colorado venison
with Gouda polenta, and Puget Sound scallops over
forbidden rice and green beans in a well-balanced
curry sauce. Staff members provided transportation
between the two resorts, allowing us to indulge in
the surprisingly good Colorado wines from Sutcliffe
Vineyards, which paired with the various courses.
Throughout our stay, the staff were engaging
and clearly took pride in their work. A summer
visit to Cresto Ranch is exceptionally pleasant, but
I would not recommend braving the tents during
the spring or autumn, as their gas fireplaces might
prove insufficient to ward off the chill.
T
urning back north, we drove through otherworldly red rock landscapes up to Sorrel River
Ranch, close to both Arches and Canyonlands
national parks. The road leading to the property
winds along the Colorado River, already forming a
canyon that presages the glories farther downstream.
Accommodations occupy nine buildings along the
river, and though the vistas from the Mountain
View Rooms are pretty, trees and other buildings
can obscure the rock formations, making the River
View suites the best choice. For maximum privacy,
opt for a second-floor suite with a balcony (Suites
“
Inside, the tents exhibit rugged
good taste, and staying in them
requires little sacrifice of comfort.
PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER
H O T E L S AT A G L A N C E
Gateway Canyons Resort 86
L I K E Magnificent natural setting; elaborate Palisade swimming pool; flawless housekeeping. D I S L I K E The 10 percent resort fee; the complex and inefficient system for arranging outdoor activities; the lessthan-luxurious room furnishings. G O O D T O K N O W Auto aficionados can rent exotic cars at the on-site
Driven Experiences center. KAYENTA DELUXE, $670; KAYENTA SIGNATURE SUITE, $800. 43200 COLORADO
HIGHWAY 141, GATEWAY, CO. TEL. (970) 931-2458. GATEWAYCANYONS.COM Hotel Columbia 84
L I K E Convenient central location adjacent to free gondola up to Mountain Village; notable restaurant;
glorious mountain views from our Jacuzzi terrace. D I S L I K E Poor housekeeping and maintenance;
insufficient soundproofing. G O O D T O K N O W The front desk is not staffed at all late at night. PREMIUM
KING, $565; PREMIUM HOT TUB SUITE, $765. 301 WEST SAN JUAN AVENUE, TELLURIDE, CO. TEL. (970) 728-0660.
COLUMBIATELLURIDE.COM
Cresto Ranch A90
L I K E Pristine surroundings; plush tents; delicious food; friendly and motivated staff members. D I S L I K E Tent heating may be inadequate for early spring and late fall. G O O D T O K N O W Cell phones receive no
signal here, but long-distance calls from the tent’s landline are complimentary. MOUNTAIN OR RIVER TENT,
$1,400, INCLUDING FULL BOARD. 52068 ROAD 38, DOLORES, CO. TEL. (970) 882-4800. DUNTONHOTSPRINGS.COM

Sorrel River Ranch 87
L I K E Glorious views of red rock landscape; unforgettable trail rides; fresh and spacious accommodations;
efficient room service; excellent spa. D I S L I K E The hit-and-miss cuisine; the many undertrained staff
members. G O O D T O K N O W Corner accommodations such as H1, H4, J5 and J8 have more windows.
RIVER VIEW DELUXE KING, $530; RIVER SPA SUITE, $570. MILE 17, UTAH HIGHWAY 128, MOAB, UT. TEL. (435) 259-4642.
SORRELRIVER.COM a rating, denotes a recommended hotel. Visit Andrew Harper.com for more information
A preceding
about all of my favorite hotels in Colorado and Utah.
March 2014 | hideaway report 11
Church Rock, one of the many extraordinary
sights we encountered driving from Cresto
Ranch in Colorado to Moab, Utah
L A S T L O OK
PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER
Scenic Rockies Drive
CONTINUED
J1-J8), or to avoid stairs, select E1, E2 or H1-H4,
which all have riverview patios and minimal foot
traffic. Suites C1, C2 and A1-A4 are closest to the
swimming pool and the main lodge with its two
restaurants and bar.
Our bright River View Deluxe King Suite had
warm wood floors and wainscoting, and a beamed
ceiling inspired by traditional latilla and viga
construction. Other touches left us in no doubt
that we were in the American West: horse heads
emblazoned the amber glass chandelier over the
copper-topped dining table, as well as the light
fixture over the sofa and rocking chair; steer horns
hung above the log-framed four-poster king bed;
and elsewhere, framed Remington prints decorated
the walls. In the tiled bath, dual vanities faced
a claw-foot tub ringed with startlingly powerful
jets. Outside, we enjoyed morning coffee in the
comfortable wooden chairs on the patio, taking in
the mesmerizing views of the Colorado backdropped
by red rock formations.
As fit the pattern of the trip, the service did not
quite live up to the ranch’s glorious setting. Many of
the staff were interns and their lack of experience
was painfully evident at times. Of greater concern
was the inconsistency of the resort’s restaurants,
the only ones around for miles. Nevertheless, I
have many pleasant memories of our stay. The
unforgettable “Ridge Top Ride” took us into the
mesa- and pinnacle-punctuated landscape behind the
resort. And an afternoon in the spa proved relaxing
and therapeutic. There is no better base from which
to explore the geologic wonders of Canyonlands
and Arches national parks, but until Sorrel River
Ranch increases its service and culinary standards,
it cannot be recommended unreservedly. H
T R AV E L OF F IC E N E W S
Planning Ahead for Summer in Europe
ALTHOUGH WINTER IS SCARCELY OVER, now is the time to make plans for high-season travel to Europe. As many
families vacation together during summer break, connecting rooms tend to be in short supply. Major cultural centers
fill up quickly, as do favorite resort areas such as the Amalfi Coast, the Côte d’Azur and the Croatian archipelago.
To escape the crowds, consider other possibilities. For example, the Swiss Alps and the Dolomites offer world-class
hiking, as well as exceptional spa resorts and distinctive cuisine. The British Isles also have fine walking country in the
Scottish Highlands and England’s Lake District, along with castles, distilleries and famed links golf courses such as
St. Andrews, Muirfield and Royal Dornoch. Scandinavia enjoys long hours of summer sunshine and offers pristine
beaches, dramatic fjords and some of Europe’s most exciting restaurants in Stockholm and Copenhagen. Regardless
of your destination, be sure to book as far in advance as possible to avoid disappointment.
Contact the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected].
Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated
travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for
all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX
78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368,
Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096;
WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.
Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Illustrator Melissa Colson
L A S T WOR D
A Brave
New World
AS YOU WILL SEE, this
is the third issue of the
new four-color newsletter,
and I am delighted to
say that the response to
the new format has been
overwhelmingly positive.
We have also launched
our new website, where
spectacular full-screen
slideshows encourage
you to dream of far-flung
lands. Of all the changes we
have introduced, however,
I am particularly pleased
with those to The Andrew
Harper Collection. This is
now published as a series
of 12 booklets, designed
to accompany you on your
travels. In addition to hotel
recommendations, they now
feature extended restaurant
listings, plus sightseeing and
shopping suggestions. The
Collection is only included in
Premier and Premier Online
subscriptions. To upgrade
your subscription, please
call (866) 831-4314 or
email clientrelations@
andrewharper.com.
Personal Photos
Whenever possible, I will share
photographs from my trips. These
are denoted “Photo by Andrew
Harper.” On our website, you will
also find more personal pictures
and videos. In this newsletter, look
for the symbols below.
 = slideshow at AndrewHarper.com
 = video at AndrewHarper.com