Grand Canyon National Park Hotels and Activities 2010

A
Travel Guide
Grand Canyon National Park
Hotels and Activities 2010
Sunset Travel Guide
Explore America’s
Natural Wonder of
the World
3 | Grand Canyon 101:
An introduction to the park
5 | Canyon sleeps:
The best hotels and campgrounds in
and near the park
7 | Grandest meals:
Our favorite Grand Canyon dining
experiences
8 | Park pastimes:
The best Grand Canyon activities,
from mule trips to rafting
11 | Grand Canyon wow spots:
See the park’s top views—and don’t
forget your camera
13 | Canyon solitude:
The uncrowded, unforgettable
North Rim
11
5
2 Sunset Travel Guide
16 | Travel Resources
cover: xanterra parks & Resorts. clockwise from top Left: xanterra
parks & Resorts (2), dmitry lyakhov
8
15 | Western wonder:
Explore Williams, the park’s gateway
town on Route 66
Sunset Travel Guide
The canyon’s signautre red
rock splendor below A lush
counterpoint at Havasupai
Campground
Grand Canyon 101
When you take a look at the great eroded
buttes, monoliths, and temples that
comprise Northern Arizona’s 277-mile-long
canyon and how these formations’ contours
and colors change with the light, you’re
bound to wonder how such a miracle came to
be. The deep reds come as no surprise but
when the rock begins to turn purple or blue
you begin to realize that the postcard views
we all grew up with scarcely capture just how
ever-changing and grand this canyon truly is.
Gaze down and you’ll notice that there’s
something missing. From most points on the
3 Sunset Travel Guide
South Rim, you cannot even see all the way
to the bottom of the canyon where the Colorado River runs. The canyon is a mile deep.
And from rim to river, it encompasses 1.8
billion years of geology.
Maybe a Grand Canyon visit will inspire
you to challenge some of North America’s
fiercest whitewater on a multi-day rafting
excursion. Or to take a backpack trip and go
down into the depths and back up again on a
trek from the South Rim to the North Rim.
The fact is that a trip to the Grand Canyon
isn’t a culmination. It’s only the beginning.
top: xanterra parks & Resorts., bottom: dmitry lyakhov
An introduction to the park
Sunset Travel Guide
A mule runner on the job
right Descending the Bright
Angel Trail below Yavapai Point
left Toroweap Overlook
The canyon goes
digital
Getting there
Grand Canyon lies about 225 miles north of
Phoenix, and 275 miles east of Las Vegas;
nearest towns are Tusayan just south of the
park, and Williams and Flagstaff, farther to
the south and southeast. Note that the
distance from the South Rim to the North
requires a 200-mile drive (or a 22-mile hike).
beautiful, with turning aspens and cool clear
days. The North Rim generally closes in midOctober, to reopen mid-May. Winter on the
South Rim is quieter, with a dusting of snow
at the canyon rim, and warmer temperatures
within. Spring weather can be changeable,
veering from snow and rain in March to
warmer temperatures later in the season.
When to go
Exploring the rims
Summers are the most popular time here—
both North and South rims are open, and it’s
peak season for Colorado River rafting.
Weather is hot, especially within the canyon,
and thunderstorms are common. Autumn is
South Rim. The South Rim gets most of the
4 Sunset Travel Guide
park’s annual 5 million visitors, which means
that in-park lodging should be booked in
advance (888/297-2757 or
grandcanyonlodges.com).
North Rim. Less crowded and 1,000 feet
higher than the South Rim’s Grand Canyon
Village, the North Rim offers a totally different experience. Facilities are open only from
May 15 to mid-October because of heavy
winter snow.
Below the rim. Perspective shifts very quickly
inside the canyon. While the immersion of a
rim-to-rim hike or a rafting trip is ideal, you
don’t have to make a commitment that large
to experience the inner canyon.
For more information, visit the National Park
Service; nps.gov/grca, 928-638-7888.
clockwise from top: xanterra parks & Resorts (3),
National park service
Want a tour of one of the country’s
most famous landmarks? Don’t look
for a ranger; reach for your iPhone (or
MP3 player or cell phone) instead.
If you’re someone who winces at
the word “docent,” download a twohour audio tour of the park ($4.99; nps.
gov/grca) and a map, and be on your
way.
Or log onto iTunes (itunes.com) for
podcasts on everything from how to
raft the canyon to how it was sculpted
(and tips on staying safe while hiking
it).
Finally, at signposted South Rim
points of interest between Hermit
Road and Yaki Point, you can call
928/225-2907 (if your cell phone gets
any bars) for a quick two-minute tale
about the area.
Sunset Travel Guide
Grand Canyon
lodging rates
$ inexpensive under $100
$$ moderate $100-$175
$$$ expensive $175-$250
$$$$ splurge $250 and up
cabins; dormitory lodging and campground
are also available. Meals (reservations
required) are served in a dining hall. Stays are
included on two-day mule trips. If you don’t
want to carry gear in or out, you can hire
mules to haul bags (928/638-3283) down to
Phantom Ranch. $-$$.
North Rim
Canyon sleeps
The best hotels and campgrounds in and near the park
In the Park
South Rim
All South Rim lodging reservations are made
through Xanterra Parks & Resorts: 888/297-2757
or grandcanyonlodges.com.
El Tovar. Rambling, historic 1905 lodge
perched at the edge of the canyon. $$$.
Bright Angel Lodge Cabins. Also historic, but
more modest. $$-$$$.
5 Sunset Travel Guide
Maswik Lodge. Modern motel sits back from
the rim, but it’s comfortable and within walking distance of most South Rim attractions.
$-$$.
Phantom Ranch. It’s the only hotel in the
neighborhood, but considering that it’s situated at the bottom of the Grand Canyon,
that’s nothing to sneeze at. The accommodations are very rustic and dorm-style. Mary
Colter designed the wood and boulder
Outside the Park
The Canyon Motel & RV Park. Sleep in a
converted railcar, caboose, or one of 18 basic
cottages. $-$$. In Williams; 800/482-3955 or
thecanyonmotel.com.
Grand Canyon Railway Hotel. The railway’s
official hotel, walking distance to downtown.
Railroad packages available. $$. In Williams;
800/843-8724 or thetrain.com.
Grand Hotel. Lodge like feel, nightly
entertainment. $$-$$$. In Tusayan; 888/634-7263
or grandcanyongrandhotel.com.
Red Garter Bed and Bakery. Former bordello
xanterra parks & Resorts.
The rustic setting of
Phantom Ranch
Grand Canyon Lodge North Rim. Beautiful
historic lodge overlooking the canyon; open
May 15–October 15. Accommodations are in
duplex cabins; some have views and some
are spacious, while others aren’t, so ask
about location and amenities. $$-$$$. 877/3864383 or grandcanyonforever.com.
Jacob Lake Inn. Motel lodging and simple
cabins, a restaurant ($), and a store with an
outstanding collection of Navajo rugs and
Native American jewelry; about 44 miles
from the rim. $-$$; 928/643-7232 or
www.jacoblake.com.
Kaibab Lodge. Eighteen miles from the Grand
Canyon, it offers some newly built cabins and
a restaurant ($$). $-$$; 928/638-2389 or www.
kaibablodge.com.
Sunset Travel Guide
Caption TK
a perfect sunset view. Insider tip: Reserve as
soon as you have a date in mind. From $18;
877/444-6777 or recreation.gov.
Desert View. Head 25 miles east of Grand
Canyon Village for the most peaceful and
scenic camping on the South Rim—not to
mention the park’s most beautiful sunrise
spot. Professional photographers camp here
to capture the unfolding layers of color and
shadow at dawn. The best time to secure a
spot is midmorning, when people are packing
up camp. 50 sites mid-May–Oct; from $12.
928/638-7888.
Southwestern hospitality
at Bright Angel Lodge
Outside the Park
now has four rooms with private baths, and a
bakery that turns out scones and muffins. $$.
In Williams; 800/328-1484 or redgarter.com.
The Lodge on Route 66. Retro cool, with pine
exterior and hardwood floors. $$. In Williams;
thelodgeonroute66.com.
Rodeway Inn & Suites Downtowner.
Revamped with new furniture and slate
floors. $$. In Williams;
thedowntowneronroute66.com.
Camping
Grand Canyon’s dizzying cliffs and vast scope
can easily overwhelm—as can its more than
5 million annual visitors. You’ll feel a greater
sense of peaceful solitude when sleeping in a
tent, and you’re more apt to capture the
6 Sunset Travel Guide
canyon’s dazzling light, particularly at
sunrise and sunset.
If you’re planning to camp within the
park, make the reservations one year in
advance—or try for a first-come, first-served
spot at North Rim or Desert View
Campgrounds. INFO Seven-day pass $25 per
vehicle. 928/638-7888 or nps.gov/grca.
In the Park
North Rim Campground.. Just 2 miles from
Bright Angel Point, the North Rim
Campground is an easy walk to the difficult
14.2-mile trail that descends into the canyon.
Facing the canyon, site 14 is lovely. Set at the
far end of the campground, it’s fringed with
aspens and ponderosa pines and offers easy
access to the Transept Trail. An added bonus:
entrance, the Forest Service campground
was recently remodeled. It’s adjacent to a
grassy meadow and offers excellent
interpretive programs. At 8,760 feet, expect
cool evenings. 38 sites, open mid-May–late Sep;
$17. 928/643-7395 or fs.fed.us/r3/kai.
Havasu. Tucked into the 185,000-acre
Havasupai Indian Reservation, this pretty
campground is located 10 miles below the
rim and boasts spring-fed waterfalls and
loads of nearby swimming holes. The sites
fan out along the creek between Havasu and
Mooney Falls and are surrounded by cool
cottonwoods. It’s a three- to four-hour drive
west of the South Rim to Hualapai Hilltop;
hike, ride a mule ($150 round-trip), or fly ($187
round-trip) the 8 miles to Supai, and the
campground is a 2-mile hoof from there.
Campground accommodates up to 200 people
year-round; $17 per person plus $35 per person
entrance fee. No cars or RVs. 928/448-2121.
Jacob Lake. Set in a ponderosa pine forest
about 45 miles from the North Rim, the
campground has hiking and biking access to
Buck Ridge Viewpoint, where you can catch
views of Bryce and Zion. Just across the
street is Jacob Lake Inn ($$; breakfast, lunch,
and dinner daily; 928/643-7232); if you tire of
camp cooking, head here for a mean trout
almondine and excellent baked goods. 53 sites
mid-May–mid-Oct; $17. 928/643-7395 or
fs.fed.us/r3/kai.
Ten-X. Located 2 miles south of Tusayan, the
Forest Service campground is set in the
woods and has barbecue grills, large sites
covered with soft pine needles, and an
amphitheater with excellent weekend
programs. 70 sites May 1–mid-Sep; $10.
fs.fed.us/r3/kai or 928/638-2443.
xanterra parks & Resorts.
DeMotte. Five miles north of the North Rim
Sunset Travel Guide
Western elegance at
El Tovar Dining Room
Grand Canyon
dining rates
$ entrees $12 or less
$$ entrees $13-$20
$$$ entrees $21-$30
$$$$ entrees $31 and up
Maswik Cafeteria. At Maswik Lodge, no-frills
fare. $; 928/638-2631.
Phantom Ranch Canteen. Located at the
Phantom Ranch, the dining room provides
hearty breakfasts, sack lunches, and two
dinner seatings: steak at the earlier seating
and a choice of hiker’s stew or vegetarian
chili at the later one. $$; 928/638-2631.
Outside the Park
Café Tusayan. Eclectic menu. $; 110 Hwy. 64,
Tusayan; 928/638-2151.
Cruiser’s Café 66 Bar & Grill. When Route 66
was the only road through town, this spot
was a gas station. Now it’s a burger and BBQ
joint, but the pumps and vintage signage
remain. $$; 233 W. Route 66, Williams; 928/6352445.
Old Smokey’s Restaurant & Pancake House.
Our favorite Grand Canyon dining experiences
Inside the Park
El Tovar Dining Room and Lounge. In the
Arizona Room. In the Bright Angel Lodge,
historic hotel, the South Rim’s class act,
thanks to its setting and gourmet menu.
Dinner reservations recommended. $$$;
928/638-2631.
Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room. With its
soaring ceiling and views, the lodge’s dining
room is definitely the place to eat. Reservations required for dinner, recommended for
other meals. $$; 928/638-2611.
grilled specialties and a relaxed Western
atmosphere. $$-$$$; 928/638-2631.
Bright Angel Restaurant, Fountain & Bar. In
Bright Angel Lodge, good for breakfast. $$;
928/638-2631.
Canyon Café at Yavapai Lodge. Home-style
fare, including pizzas and burgers, served in a
casual atmosphere. $; 928/638-2631.
7 Sunset Travel Guide
xanterra parks & Resorts.
Grandest meals
It first opened as a barbecue joint in 1946 and
has seen a lot of change—except to its sign.
We like the buckwheat pancakes and the
biscuits and gravy. $; 624 W. Route 66, Williams;
928/635-1915.
Pine Country Restaurant. Home cooking and
amazing pies made fresh daily. $-$$; 107 N.
Grand Canyon Blvd., Williams; 928/635-9718.
Rod’s Steak House. Classic Route 66 eatery,
opened in 1946. $$; 301 E. Route 66, Williams;
928/635-2671.
Twisters Soda Fountain. Cute ’50s-style cafe.
$; 417 E. Route 66, Williams; 928/635-0266.
Yippee-i-o Steakhouse. A festive place where
food is cooked over a juniper wood fire. $$; at
the Grand Canyon, Hwy. 64, Tusayan; 928/6382780.
Sunset Travel Guide
Park pastimes
The best Grand Canyon activities, from mule trips to rafting
Angel trailhead, then goes east toward the
visitor center. This allows visits to many
historic structures.
South Rim
Head west to get away from crowds;
Powell and Hopi points make nice
destinations from the village.
Think of this as downtown Grand Canyon:
What the South Rim lacks in solitude, it
makes up for in history, views, and activities.
Drives
Hermit Rd. (West Rim Dr./State 64) is closed
to vehicles, and a shuttle runs on the 16-mile
round trip to Hermits Rest. Cars are
permitted on the 46-mile round-trip Desert
View Dr. (East Rim Dr./State 64), which
8 Sunset Travel Guide
eventually connects to U.S. 89, so you might
explore here if you’re bound for the North
Rim or Flagstaff.
Walks
The mostly flat Rim Trail covers 9 miles
between Yavapai Point and Hermits Rest.
The shuttle gives you numerous options
because you can walk a long section, then
bus back.
A good orientation hike starts at Bright
A more challenging option is to shuttle to
Hermits Rest, hike 4 miles to the Abyss, one
of the South Rim’s best river views, then pick
up the bus.
History & Architecture
The South Rim is a storehouse for the vintage
Southwest architecture of Mary Colter.
Notable designs include the log-and-stone
xanterra parks & Resorts.
Mule trip on the
Bright Angel Trail
Sunset Travel Guide
Caption TK
A stunning
canyon view
Temple and Wotans Throne, as well as the
river.
A very rough dirt road leads 17 miles to the
amazing views at Point Sublime, but check
road conditions and make sure that both you
and your vehicle are up to it.
Hikes
The North Rim has more hiking choices than
the South Rim, but on many trails, you’ll
spend most of your time within the forest,
which is spectacular when the aspens turn
but has limited openings to panoramas.
The Transept Trail, which begins at the
lodge, is the North Rim’s version of the Rim
Trail and follows the Bright Angel Peninsula
for 11/2 miles. Be sure to walk to Bright Angel
Point, about 1/4 mile from the lodge. The
Widforss Trail, named for an early canyon
artist, runs 5 miles to a vista, and the first 21/2
miles stick close to the rim; turn left on a dirt
road 2.7 miles north of the lodge and drive 1
mile to the trailhead.
Going below the rim
Perspective shifts very quickly inside the
canyon. While the immersion of a rim-to-rim
hike or a rafting trip is ideal, you don’t have
to make a commitment that large.
Day hikes
The 1907 El Tovar Hotel, designed as a
mountain lodge, is the South Rim’s grandest
space, while the Kolb Studio has exhibits
displaying the work of pioneering canyon
photographers Ellsworth and Emery Kolb.
North Rim
Less crowded and 1,000 feet higher than
Grand Canyon Village, the North Rim offers a
totally different experience. Facilities are
open only from May 15 to mid-October
because of heavy winter snow.
9 Sunset Travel Guide
Art & Architecture
For information on the Grand Canyon Village
Historical District, pick up a brochure for the
self-guided walking tour. In addition to the
Bright Angel Lodge (designed by Colter, with a
fireplace built of rock strata found in the
canyon), check out the Hopi House, Lookout
Studio, and El Tovar Hotel. The Kolb Studio—
built by brothers Ellsworth and Emery Kolb,
pioneering photographers—has a gallery.
Drives
A 23-mile one-way drive from the lodge takes
you to two classic spots: the canyon’s highest
view point, 8,803-foot Point Imperial, looks
out into Navajo country, while Cape Royal
offers views of such landmarks as Vishnu
On the South Rim, South Kaibab Trail
starts near Yaki Point and has great views on
the way to Cedar Ridge, a 2.8-mile round trip
with a nearly 940-foot elevation loss. Bright
Angel Trail starts near the Kolb Studio. The
best day-hike is the 9.2-mile round trip to
Indian Garden, with a demanding 3,060-foot
return climb.
The North Rim’s North Kaibab Trail is
more forested than the trails described
above. A good but challenging day-hike is the
9.4-mile round trip to Roaring Springs, which
begins 2 miles north of the lodge; elevation
change is 3,400 feet.
xanterra parks & Resorts.
Bright Angel Lodge, the pueblo Hopi House,
and the Desert View Watchtower, based on
Anasazi structures and with murals styled
after rock art.
Remember that what goes down must come
up. Even maintained trails can be
challenging, especially in hot conditions.
Check with rangers for best timing to
maximize shade on the return, especially in
summer.
Sunset Travel Guide
Caption TK
every skill and commitment level. Half- and
full-day trips are available; most outfiiters’
trips start at three days, while full canyon
trips can last three weeks. Some companies
offer opulent meals and pampering. Costs
run over $300 per day.
Options include large motorized rafts
(which cover more territory in less time), the
more active paddle rafts experience, and
dories, the traditional hard-hulled riverrunning craft. Plan a year ahead. The park
has a complete list of river-running companies; 800/959-9164.
1 day commerical trips
Smooth Water Raft Trips. Half-day and allday trips on the Colorado River from Glen
Canyon Dam to Lees Ferry are provided by
Colorado River Discovery, LLC. Trips begin at
Page, Arizona, a drive of 140 miles from the
South Rim. 888/522-6644; raftthecanyoncom.
3-18 day commercial trips
The following concessioners have been
permitted to operate in Grand Canyon by the
National Park Service; nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/river-concessioners.htm.
Aramark-Wilderness River Adventures.
800/992-8022; riveradventures.com.
Arizona Raft Adventures, Inc./Grand Canyon
Discovery, Inc. 800/786-7328; azraft.com.
Arizona River Runners, Inc. 800/477-7238;
www.raftarizona.com.
Rafting on the Colorado
River is a popular park
adventure
Canyon Explorations/Canyon Expeditions.
800/654-0723; canyonexplorations.com.
Canyoneers, Inc. 800/525-0924; canyoneers.
com.
Colorado River & Trail Expeditions, Inc.
A century-old tradition, mule rides are a good
option for people unable or unwilling to hike
in and out of the canyon, although spending
hours on a mule has its own physical
demands. South Rim options include daily
three-hour trips to the Abyss Overlook and
overnight trips to Phantom Ranch on the
river. Half- and full-day trips leave from the
North Rim but don’t reach the river. Trips can
be booked a year in advance. Day trips from
$117.40; 303/297-2757 (South Rim); 435/679-8665
(North Rim).
Backpacking
Backcountry permits ($10, plus $5 per night) are
required for overnight trips, except stays at
Phantom Ranch. The number of permits is
10 Sunset Travel Guide
800/253-7328; crateinc.com.
limited, and the earliest you can obtain one is
four months before your trip. 928/638-7875 for
application details, 1–5 Mon-Fri.
You should stay at least two nights in the
canyon; spring and fall are the best times. A
good introductory experience from the South
Rim is to camp at Indian Garden (one of the
park’s most heavily used campgrounds), then
make day trips from there. The rim-to-rim trip
via Bright Angel Trail and North Kaibab Trail is
a Grand Canyon classic, but at 24 miles, it is
demanding and requires a car shuttle.
River trips
A river trip is truly one of the great life
experiences. While the prospect of running
rapids can intimidate, there are options for
Diamond River Adventures, Inc. 800/343-3121;
diamondriver.com.
Grand Canyon Dories. 800/877-3679; grandcan-
yondories.com.
Grand Canyon Expeditions Company.
800/544-2691; gcex.com.
Hatch River Expeditions, Inc. 800/856-8966;
hatchriverexpeditions.com.
Moki Mac River Expeditions, Inc. 800/284-
7280; mokimac.com.
O.A.R.S. Grand Canyon, Inc. 800/346-6277;
oars.com.
Outdoors Unlimited. 800/637-7238; outdoor-
sunlimited.com.
Tour West, Inc. 800/453-9107; twriver.com.
Western River Expeditions, Inc. 800/453-7450;
westernriver.com.
xanterra parks & Resorts.
Mule trips
Sunset Travel Guide
Point Imperial awash in
sunset hues
See the park’s top views—and don’t forget your camera
Point Imperial
The aptly named highest point on the North
Rim overlooks the eastern Grand Canyon and
Painted Desert. Point Imperial has long been
a favorite park-ranger-recommended spot to
photograph a breathtaking sunrise.
11 Sunset Travel Guide
Mount Hayden from Ken Patrick
Trail
You won’t really know the Grand Canyon
until you’ve explored its unforgettable North
Rim. At 8,000 feet, it is higher in elevation
than the South Rim and less crowded. Seen
here from Ken Patrick Trail, rock spire Mt.
Hayden frames the horizon.
Havasu Falls
Havasu Falls offers a perfect balance of natural forces: turquoise water and red, red rock,
glowing beneath a blue desert sky. Other
falls are taller; other falls carry greater
volumes of water. And boy, are other falls
easier to reach: to get to Havasu, you hike 10
miles into Havasu Canyon near—at least on
the map—to the South Rim, having obtained
the required trail permit from the Havasupai
Indian Reservation months earlier. But no
waterfall in the world is so worth the work.
Bright Angel Trail
A descent into the Grand Canyon’s South
Rim by mule offers something more than just
another view. Pass through a sequence of
vastly different landscapes, each with its own
top: xanterra parks & Resorts, bottom: dmitry lyakhov
Grand Canyon
wow spots
Sunset Travel Guide
Lookout Studio below Mather
Point left The majestic Havasu
Falls
ble to the west. You can also view Phantom
Ranch, Bright Angel, and North Kaibab Trails
from this supreme vantage point.
Phantom Ranch
Phantom Ranch sits next to Bright Angel
Creek at the canyon bottom and is the place
to go if you’re willing to rough it a little.
Architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter
designed these rustic wood-and-boulder
cabins in 1922.
Toroweap Overlook
A magnificently lonely outpost in the Grand
Canyon’s northwestern corner, 4,600-foot
Toroweap grants unforgettable views of the
Colorado River. Equally impressive are the
volcanic features, cinder cones, and lava
flows, which make this viewpoint one of the
most unique in the park.
North Rim from Grand Canyon
Lodge
There’s a palpable serenity as people from all
over the globe settle into the rough-hewn
chairs to ponder the North Rim of the Grand
Canyon. Heaven should be so mellow—and
also serve cold beer.
Colorado River rafting
A river trip offers a truly unique perspective
5,000 feet below the rim. While the prospect
of running its rapids can intimidate, there are
options for every skill and commitment level.
Lookout Studio
Desert View Watchtower
Architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter
designed six landmark buildings near the
South Rim between 1905 and 1935. When you
arrive from the east, the first Colter structure
you see is the Desert View Watchtower. Stop
to take in the panorama—one of the best in
the canyon, with a long stretch of the Colo12 Sunset Travel Guide
rado River clearly visible 5,000 feet below.
Inside the Watchtower, a re-creation of the
kind of Ancestral Puebloan towers found at
Mesa Verde and Hovenweep on the UtahColorado border—huge picture windows
frame the landscape, turning the building
into a gallery of canyon vistas.
Yavapai Point
Close to the main South Rim visitor area,
Yavapai point may provide one of the best
panoramas of the inner canyon, the Colorado
River, and Bright Angel Canyon. After taking
photos of the sprawling panorama, you will
see a turquoise-bright sky that remains visi-
Mather Point
There’s a reason why all the tour buses stop
at this popular South Rim view point–it’s
beautiful. Visible landmarks as you look east
include two prominent pinnacles–Vishnu
Temple and Temple of Zoroaster. The latter
was architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter’s
inspiration when designing the Bright Angel
Lodge’s history room.
xanterra parks & Resorts. (4)
distinct climate, wildlife, and topography. A
century-old tradition, mule rides are a good
alternative to hiking out of the canyon. South
Rim options include day trips to Plateau Point
and overnight trips to Phantom Ranch on the
river.
Providing endless photo ops, this rustic landmark virtually blends into the sweeping
panoramic landscape at the canyon’s edge
near Bright Angel Lodge in the South Rim.
The historic Colter-designed building now
operates as a gift shop and observation
station.
Sunset Travel Guide
The North Rim before a summer
storm right A memorable view
from Kaibab Trail
Exploring the North Rim
The uncrowded, unforgettable North Rim
The last leg to the North Rim of the Grand
Canyon is a 44-mile drive on Arizona’s State
67 that passes through forests of ponderosa
pine. It runs along rolling meadows that in
spring fill with shallow lakes, where herds of
mule deer dissolve into the morning mists.
Though just a 10-mile cross-canyon glide
from the South Rim for the local condors, the
North Rim is much farther away for the rest
of us: a full 215 miles by road. The North Rim
13 Sunset Travel Guide
is in fact closer to Zion National Park across
the state line in Utah than it is to Grand
Canyon park headquarters. The comparative
remoteness—and the heavy snows that limit
its season to mid-May through October—
keeps the number of visitors down.
Whether you’re a first-timer or have
visited 100 times, the North Rim is never
anything less than a revelation.
The trek to Toroweap
Although still part of the park, Toroweap—a
remote viewpoint and primitive campground—is separated from the North Rim’s
main area and is 60 miles by dirt road from
State 389. While the South Rim gets well over
4 million visitors annually and the North Rim
500,000, maybe 10,000 ever reach this spot.
Toroweap justifies the effort by delivering
one of the grandest of Grand Canyon
perspectives. At 4,600 feet, Toroweap is
considerably lower and hotter than both
rims. What it lacks in elevation it makes up
xanterra parks & Resorts. (2)
Canyon solitude
Head to one of the rim’s best viewpoints,
Cape Royal. To reach Cape Royal, you drive 23
miles, mostly out along the Walhalla Plateau,
until there’s no road left to drive. The view
takes in an array of stone monoliths named
for figures of antiquity: Apollo, Vishnu, and,
most prominently, the curving rampart of
Wotans Throne. Truth be told, it looks more
like Wotans Settee, assuming the Norse god
of war would ever settle into such an angle of
repose.
The towers and temples pick up the last
light through the breaking clouds, the rocks’
reds deepening within the violet fog that fills
the chasm. Lightning flashes along the horizon, while Wotans floats off the edge like an
island and the South Rim fades into the darkness: a distant shore. It’s curious that a few
canyon overlooks are designated as capes
rather than points. But certainly tonight
Cape Royal is the ideal name for a purple
place seemingly at the far edge of the world.
It’s easy to spend a North Rim visit hiking
through its forests and along the scalloped
edges of the eroded plateau. But that’s like
spending a day at the beach without ever
getting into ocean.
Sunset Travel Guide
Traveler info
North Rim visitor services, facilities,
lodging, and camping are only open
from mid-May to mid-October.
Reservations are strongly recommended. Additional facilities are available in the surrounding Kaibab
National Forest, the Kaibab Lodge
area, and Jacob Lake.
After the close of visitor facilities in
mid-October, there may be a period
when the North Rim is open for day use
only (before the snow comes). During
this time there are no services or overnight facilities available inside the
park.
Transportation
A shuttle to the North Kaibab trailhead
is available twice daily in the morning.
Cost is $8 for first person and $5 for
each additional person. Purchase tickets at Grand Canyon Lodge front desk.
Passenger pick-up is in front of the
lodge. Reservations are required 24
hours in advance.
The Trans-Canyon Shuttle runs
between the north and south rims of
the park once daily, in each direction,
and the travel time is about 41/2 hours
each way. This is the only means of
public transportation between the rims
aside from hiking or driving yourself.
Reservations are required and can be
made by calling 928-638-2820. Scheduled service is available between May
15th and October 15. www.trans
canyonshuttle.com
- National Park Service
for with sheer verticality. Rather than 10
miles wide, the canyon narrows here to less
than a mile across. Walk to the edge, and give
or take a ledge or two, it’s a 3,000-foot drop
to a Colorado River splashdown.
If the approach to the North Rim is a
stately, wooded processional, the final run to
Toroweap is a dusty, bouncy, shake, rattle,
and two-hour-plus roll through open
expanses of juniper and sage-brush.
The things you do at Toroweap, which is to
say not much at all, are pure heaven: hikes
along the ledges and waits along outcrops to
watch the passage of rafts through one of the
14 Sunset Travel Guide
Colorado’s most fabled rapids, Lava Falls; solitary moments watching the light repaint the
great cliffs that surround; and raucous, beerfueled conversations around the campfire.
Best hikes
North Kaibab Trail Hike just a short distance
for a look below the rim. For a day-hike, take
the 3.6-mile round-trip (including a 1,000foot return climb) to Supai Tunnel or 5.4-mile
round-trip (including a 2,000-foot return
climb) to Redwall Bridge.
Transept Trail This perfect family day-hike
(3 miles round-trip), with great views from
the rim’s edge, begins at Grand Canyon
Lodge. Good for spotting condors.
Widforss Trail An outstanding, mostly level
10-mile round-trip through aspen forests leads
to the gorgeous Widforss Point overlook.
Nearby areas of interest
Kaibab National Forest Adjacent to the park,
the forest has access to rim-front overlooks
(Timp Point is one of its best) and hiking
trails. Stop by the Kaibab Plateau Visitor
Center at Jacob Lake for more information.
North Kaibab Ranger District Office; www.fs.
fed.us/r3/kai or 928/643-7398.
Toroweap National park area with an
iconic canyon view. Check road conditions
before heading out. From State 389, 7 miles
east of Fredonia, drive 60 miles on dirt road.
top: james marvin phelps, bottom left: xanterra parks & Resorts,
right: forever resorts
Rafting the Colorado above
North Rim beauty left Taking in
the views at Toroweap
Sunset Travel Guide
The scoop
Western wonder
Explore Williams, the park’s gateway town on Route 66
A secret canyon Most people pass right by
Sycamore Canyon on their way to the Grand
Canyon, overlooking this less-crowded gem.
The 12-mile rim trail winds through a ponderosa forest along the canyon’s edge: Keep an
eye out for the remnants of past occupants—800-year-old pottery shards from
the Sinagua Indians and sagging cabins left
over from a logging camp—as well as signs
of a more recent visitor. Bigfoot has allegedly
15 Sunset Travel Guide
been sighted here several times. Williams
Ranger Station, 928/635-5600.
The great western breakfast Grab a booth
at Old Smokey’s Restaurant & Pancake
House and savor a stack of buckwheat
pancakes (see Grandest Meals, page 7).
Offbeat history At the Wild West Junction’s
Territorial Museum, guides share the secrets
behind the scenery (get Buck if you can). Did
you know John Wayne—aka the Duke—was
Why go now Get a taste of the Old
West in this historic Route 66 town
(and at nearly 7,000 feet, Williams
feels downright breezy compared with,
say, Phoenix and Tucson).
Canyon adventure Nearby Sycamore Canyon is like a mini Grand
Canyon without the foot traffic.
Best catch Trout at Kaibab Lake and
Cataract Lake (fs.fed.us/r3/kai), both 2
miles from downtown.
Young guns Cowboys duke it out at
Wild West Junction’s mock gunfight
(6 p.m., except Sun; free), while the
Cataract Creek Gang, a posse of local
actors, wreaks havoc along Route 66
(9 a.m.; free; 233 N. Grand Canyon Blvd.;
williamschamber.com).
Spend the night Former bordello
and opium parlor Red Garter has gone
legit as a guesthouse with a bakery on
the ground floor (see Canyon Sleeps,
page 5). Train ride to splurge on
The Grand Canyon Railway (from $70
round-trip; 233 N. Grand Canyon Blvd.;
thetrain.com) departs daily from
Williams and drops you at El Tovar
Lodge on the canyon’s South Rim..
sensitive about his shoe size? Ever wonder
why early card decks didn’t have numbers?
Now you’ll know. $5; closed Sun; 321 E. Route
66; wildwestjunction.com.
Pies in 45 flavors Picking just one slice at
the pie counter at Pine Country Restaurant
takes some restraint. The most popular of its
45 flavors are the coconut cream, double
chocolate, and cookies and cream, but don’t
overlook the restaurant’s original pie, the
Hawaiian Delight. You’ll get a 6-inch-high
slice packed with apples, peaches, coconut,
pineapple, and walnuts (see Grandest Meals,
page 7).
Local brew The three brothers behind Grand
Canyon Brewing Company get their inspiration from the local landscape: We love their
Starry Night Stout, Horseshoe Bend Pale Ale,
and Winter Wheat. 233 W. Route 66; 928/6352168.
arizona art finds The former Rittenhouse
Haberdashery now houses the biggest
supporter of local art in the area. Mountain
Joy Treasures & Gifts sells pieces by more
than a dozen northern Arizona artists: Buy an
iron sculpture made by Arney Selesnick and
know that the proceeds help feed his herd of
adopted horses. 225 W. Route 66; 928/635-9393.
daniel chavkin
Sycamore Canyon,
located just outside
Williams
Sunset Travel Guide
Travel
Resources
Find more inspiration for travel in the West
on Sunset.com
West’s Best National Parks
Love the Grand Canyon? Discover even more natural
wonders in the West’s best national parks. From Yellowstone to Yosemite, Sunset’s got you covered on what to see,
where to stay, and what to do in our National Park guides.
Grand Canyon: The Full Guide
From must-do itineraries to a select list of top hikes, Sunset
shares its Grand Canyon favorites. Check out our full guide to
the Grand Canyon, packed with info on lodging, dining, and the
best activities and plan your ultimate trip to the park.
www.sunset.com/travel/southwest/
Phoenix Rising
Sunset.com/Travel
Your ultimate resource for travel in the
West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips
on the best places to go, from National
Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired
with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend
trips or the ultimate Western vacation.
www.sunset.com/travel
16 Sunset Travel Guide
After a rugged adventure in Grand
Canyon National Park, head to Phoenix for a few days of urban indulgence.
On Sunset.com, discover places to
beat the heat, from cool public
gardens to cutting-edge art shows to
fabulous small plates eateries.
http://www.sunset.com/travel/
southwest/
Sunset.
com/
Travel
gives you
the true
local’s
take on
the best of
the West—
it’s like
getting
advice
from
trusted
friends.
counter-clockwise from top left: xanterra parks & resorts,
David fenton
http://www.sunset.com/travel/southwest/
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