One Perfect Day In Port - Cruise Reviews, Ship Reviews by The Avid

The Magazine For People Who Love Ocean Travel
Avid Cruiser
The
SPECIAL EDITION STOCKHOLM GUIDE 2009
• Top 10 Reasons to Cruise From Stockholm •
• Stockholm, Two Perfect Days •
• One Perfect Day In Port • Special Hotel Guide •
from the editor
Avid Cruiser
The
Editor/Publisher | Ralph Grizzle
Art Director | Marjorie Frost
Published by |
Avid Travel Media Inc.
Editorial Offices
PO Box 17577
Asheville, NC 28816-7577
The Soul of Stockholm
Welcome to this special edition of The Avid Cruiser. It took a
year of living in Sweden and many trips to Stockholm before I felt I
had come to know the soul of Sweden and its beautiful capital city.
Most of what I learned is contained here on these pages, and my
hope is that the stories, photographs, maps and videos will fasttrack other travelers who need to hit the ground running on their
cruises to and from the Swedish capital.
Stockholm is, in my view, the most attractive of the Nordic capitals, and if you are cruising from Stockholm, you have the added
bonus of getting to stay there a couple of days before or after your
cruise. Don’t miss the opportunity to do so.
I know you may be thinking that Stockholm is too expensive
for you to spend extra days and nights. But that’s only true if you
frequent only the tourist restaurants and book the highest category
rooms in hotels. One of my favorite restaurants, Gondolen, serves
lunch with a view high over Stockholm, for a little more than $10.
Hotel rooms, which are recommended in this guide, begin at $150
per night for quality hotels. Yes, you can spend dearly in Stockholm
if you desire, but you don’t have to.
So read on and discover what makes Stockholm tick, and be
sure to visit cruisingfromstockholm.com to learn more and participate in our forums.
Bon Voyage!
Ralph Grizzle
Editor, The Avid Cruiser pictured at Stockholm’s Ice Bar
Write to us |
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www.cruisingfromstockholm.com
Copyright © 2009 Avid Travel Media Inc.
All rights reserved.
about our cover
Built on 14 islands, Stockholm mixes
maritime flavor with a very chic and
cosmopolitan cool to create one of
Europe’s most beautiful and intriguing cities. Don’t miss the opportunity
to experience it on a cruise to or from
Stockholm.
Avid Cruiser
The
STOCKHOLM EDITION
contents
Passenger Testimonials
Click here to view a video in your
web browser to hear what cruise
passengers think of Stockholm.
One Perfect Day In Port
Only one day to spare? From Gamla
Stan to Svenskt Tenn, here’s how to
make the most of it.
Top 10 Reasons for Cruising
from Stockholm
Why you should choose to cruise
from Stockholm.
Two Perfect Days Stockholm
Got a little more time? Print our
guide and put it in your pocket for
step-by-step advice.
Stockholm Hotel Guide
See our editor’s picks of
Stockholm’s Best Hotels for your
stay before or after your cruise at
rates that may surprise you — in a
good way!
Set A
Course For
SWEDEN
Visit our new website
Cruising From Stockholm
for resources to inspire
and inform.
• View videos.
• Read articles.
• Print maps and guides.
• Visit our forums to
share experiences,
questions and concerns with fellow
travelers and experts.
Visit http://www.cruisingfromstockholm.com/wordpress/people/
to hear comments from cruise passengers about their visits to Stockholm.
Top 10 Reasons
For Cruising From
Stockholm
#1 Water, Water Everywhere
The novelist Selma Lagerlof once referred to Stockholm as “the city that floats on water.” Built on 14
islands, Stockholm does indeed appear to be floating,
particularly on the endless summer days, when the sunlight shimmers on the rippling waters.
Water, in fact, is a key ingredient in the recipe that
makes up Stockholm’s beauty, and there are quite a few
ways to appreciate the Swedish capital from the water.
One is to get out on a boat.
You’ll find no shortage of canal tours and city tours in
Stockholm. Boats are bountiful — in part, because before
the bridges were built, boats used to be the only way to
get around the islands.
Many of the boats are as beautiful as Stockholm,
particularly the coal-fired steamers.
There’s plenty to explore while afloat, as Stockholm
is at the juncture of Lake Malaren that stretches 60 miles
in one direction, and a 50-mile archipelago that leads to
the Baltic Sea.
You could also get in the water to experience Stockholm. All you have to do is pull on some waders and
obtain a fishing license, and you may be lucky enough to
pull out a 20-pound salmon — next to the Royal Palace
in the city center. Dinner doesn’t get any fresher or any
more local than this.
Stockholm’s maritime flavor mixes with a very chic
and cosmopolitan cool to create a dreamy atmosphere
that makes you feel as if you were floating. And more
than you may realize, you are.
For a video of Stockholm from the water, click here.
#2 Islands In The Stream
Stockholm’s residents enjoy the fact that their city
is situated on 14 islands, but should that number ever
prove to be insufficient, not to worry: At Stockholm’s
doorstep are roughly 30,000 islands, islets and rocks —
all within easy access of the Swedish capital.
During the summer, the locals take to the archipelago every time they get the opportunity. Nothing makes a
Stockholm city dweller happier than to board a boat or
a ferry and set a course to one of their idyllic islands in
the stream.
Likewise, cruise passengers departing from or approaching Stockholm are rewarded with something they
just can’t get elsewhere: a leisurely transit of one of
earth’s most beautiful passages.
Those who have seen the Norwegian and Chilean
fjords, cruised the coast of Alaska and sojourned the
world’s other scenic waterways simply must add Stock-
holm’s archipelago to their must-see lists.
Stretching 50 miles from Stockholm’s city center to the
Baltic Sea, the archipelago is both sublime and serene.
Cast against a rosy sunrise that comes as early as
3:30 a.m. in midsummer, some of the islands are uninhabited, rocky outcrops that are homes to birds. To witness the stillness of the morning sky and the water lapping against the rocky shoreline makes it worth setting
your alarm clock to rise with the sun.
Other islands are dotted with cottages that are exquisitely charming and picturesque, with red plank siding
trimmed in white, adorned with flowers and the everpresent blue and yellow Swedish flag.
You could spend an entire summer hopping the islands in the archipelago. And it all starts with just one
sunrise in these idyllic islands in the stream.
For a video of Stockholm’s archipelago, click here.
#3 City With A Heart, The Old Town
From the lofty heights of City Hall’s “Large Tower,”
Stockholm’s Old Town appears in the shape of a
heart. The symbolism is fitting in more than one way.
Gamla Stan, as the Old Town is known, certainly
pumps life into the Swedish capital. The Old Town’s busy
pedestrian arteries pulsate with locals and tourists alike.
But visitors are nothing new to Stockholm’s birthplace.
It has been attracting them for nearly 800 years, and even
today, Gamla Stan has the character of a medieval city.
With its well-preserved buildings, cozy cafes, narrow
alleys and cobble-stone streets, Gamla Stan deserves a
place at the top of your “must see” list.
Wander freely through Gamla Stan, but don’t miss
the 15th-century Gothic Cathedral (Storkyrkan) or the
18th-century Royal Palace and the changing of the guard.
It’s quite a ceremony, and you won’t want to miss it.
But to truly absorb Gamla Stan you need do nothing
more than take a seat and watch the world pass.
Gamla Stan offers plenty of opportunities to shop,
both in Gamla Stan itself and on the nearby pedestrian
shopping street Drottninggatan.
Wander with or without a guide along the original
network of streets. Here in Gamla Stan, it’s more than
okay to permit yourself to be detoured. It’s preferred.
You won’t get lost — at least not for long, and you’ll
have no trouble finding your way back to your cruise
ship, which is never far away.
You won’t find a better place to spend your time in
Stockholm. Gamla Stan, after all, is not only Stockholm’s
number one tourist attraction. It is the capital city’s big
and open heart.
For a video of Stockholm’s Gamla Stan, click here.
#4 Walkable/Bikeable City
One of the best ways to experience Stockholm is to
walk it. You could easily set out in a different direction every
day for an entire week to explore something new and exciting in the Swedish capital.
Gamla Stan deserves a full day of exploring on foot, as
does Djurgarden, by way of Strandvagen, where everyone
who’s anyone can be seen walking on a sunny Stockholm
day.
Spend an afternoon strolling down the pedestrian shopping street, Drottninggatan, or get up early one morning and
set a course from sophisticated Stureplan to Bohemian Sodermalm.
Another good way to explore Stockholm is by bicycle.
Stockholm is safe for cyclists, and you’ll cover more ground
pedaling than you would walking.
For a video of Stockholm by foot and bike, click here.
#5 Let’s Fika!
You can’t say you’ve truly experienced Stockholm until you’ve had a Fika. What’s Fika? It’s where catching up
with friends meets coffee and cakes.
But Fika is about much more than caffeine and carbohydrates. It’s a Swedish social institution, where friends sit
down and chat about life and current events over snacks
like kanelbulle, the Swedish version of a cinnamon bun,
and a cappuccino. Swedes, by the way, are among the
world’s heaviest consumers of coffee.
You can fika at a cafe or at a konditori, which is a mix
of a French patisserie and a Viennese coffee house. Stockholm offers many such places.
So when you’re touring Stockholm, remember to slow
down from that break-neck pace of seeing and doing everything. Pull up chair with your friends and family. Order
a cake and a coffee and do something you probably don’t
do back home: Fika!
To experience Fika in video, click here.
#6 Good Value: You Get What You Pay For
You’d be hard-pressed to find a visitor to Stockholm who would tell you that it is an inexpensive
destination to visit, but savvy travelers will tell you that
the Swedish capital provides relatively good value.
Stockholm is no more expensive than, say, New York
or Los Angeles, but with high taxation some goods do
come at a premium. Tourists, however, are exempt from
so-called “value added taxes” on many goods, and obtaining a refund on taxes paid is easy and efficient. Simply look for shops that offer “tax free” shopping.
You’ll find many quality products in Stockholm, including the world-renowned Swedish crystal at Nordiska
Kristall, Wasa Kristall or Orrefors retailers. All have shops
in the Old Town.
You’ll also find one-of-a-kind design in furniture,
fabrics and other household goods at Svenskt Tenn, on
Strandvagen.
Look for leading brands such as FACE for cosmetics,
and for fashion, scout out Filippa K and Marco Polo. You
can even get a free tour of the city — well, sort of. You
can see Stockholm on the free IKEA bus that takes you to
the world’s largest IKEA, south of Stockholm.
When it comes to dining, you can count on fresh
food, whether you’re up for traditional or trendy cuisine.
Stockholm boasts some of Europe’s most innovative restaurants. And remember, tipping is neither required nor
expected.
If you’re overnighting in Stockholm, you’ll appreciate
that your hotel typically includes a sumptuous breakfast
buffet, so factor the savings of a quality breakfast into
the cost of overnight lodging in Stockholm.
For lunch, you can get an inexpensive meal with a
view at Gondolen, high above Slussen. There are many
other options for dining on a budget.
So, no, Stockholm isn’t cheap, but remember that
there’s truth in the old saying, “You get what you pay for.”
For a video on getting value in Stockholm, click
here.
#7 City of Culture
Stockholm is said to consist of equal parts of water,
parks and culture.
It certainly is true that Stockholm seems to boast
bountiful numbers in each: 60 miles of lake, 50 miles of
archipelago, one third of the city covered in parks, and
the world’s highest concentration of museums.
Stockholm serves up more than 70 museums, including the Vasa Museum, where you’ll find the Swedish warship that sank in 1628 and was salvaged 333
years later, then restored to create the only museum of
its kind in the world.
Practically across the street, Skansen is the world’s
oldest open-air museum. Founded in 1891, it features
150 historic buildings from all over Sweden. Kids and
adults alike also appreciate the zoo within Skansen.
City Hall is one of Stockholm’s best-known land-
marks, and it’s open for tours, including the Blue Hall,
where the Nobel Prize banquet is held annually, and the
Golden Hall, with its more than 18 million glass and gold
mosaic pieces.
Also, make time to visit the Gold Room at the Historic Museum and the Nobel Museum, situated in Gamla
Stan. While you’re there, pop around the corner to visit
the Royal Palace.
And don’t miss the home of sculptor Carl Milles,
Millesgarden, with its beautiful garden and sculptures.
You can travel by boat to Drottningholm, the permanent residence of the Swedish royal family. The UNESCO
World Heritage Site a bit like Stockholm itself: part water, part park and part museum.
For a video featuring Stockholm’s museums, click
here.
#8 Green City: Mother Nature Is Near
What’s big and green and occupies one third of
Stockholm’s total land area? Parks.
Stockholm is an exceptionally green city, and the best
place to experience that green is in the former royal deer
park known as Djurgarden.
Only a few minutes by ferry from Stockholm’s bustling city center, Djurgarden is a “must experience” destination for any visitor to Stockholm. Of course, people
flock here to see the park’s popular museums and attractions, but the real reason for coming to Djurgarden is to
commune with nature.
You can do just that at the zoo in Skansen, where
Nordic animals roam against a not-so-distant city landscape. Or you can spend a day walking along — or running along — the park’s many paths.
The best way to see Djurgarden is on bike. You can
rent one in the park and ride the easy-to-pedal roads.
You’ll soon forget that you are in the heart of a large and
cosmopolitan city. In fact, some of the scenes in Djurgarden fool you into thinking that you’re out in the Swedish
countryside.
If you’d rather watch the passing scenery from the
perspective of the water, you can take a canal tour or
canoe under your own power.
When you’ve thoroughly exerted — but not exhausted — yourself, you’ll find no shortage of places to picnic
— or to be a child again, doing cartwheels. You certainly
won’t feel the crush of humanity in this beautiful park
with its many intimate hideaways.
Pitch a blanket under the apple trees at Rosendendals Tradgard, then pick up a bite to eat while browsing
the nearby greenhouses and the gorgeous flowers.
Stockholm is, in fact, a kaleidoscope of colors. It’s
white and purple and yellow and blue, but above all,
Stockholm is green.
To view a video of “Green” Stockholm, click here.
#9 Easy Access
Stockholm a fairly compact city, so it’s easy
to get around and explore. You can walk or
bike to most places of interest in Stockholm,
or, in this city of islands, you can hop on a ferry.
You can also board the metro or step on a nostalgic trolley, or you can whisk around on two
wheels in an unusual fashion: on a Segway.
Getting to Stockholm from destinations
worldwide is also easier than ever before.
There are more than 40 direct flights each
week between North America and the Swedish capital.
To get from the airport to the city center,
Arlanda Express promises delivery in 20 minutes. Taxis, of course, will deliver you directly
to your hotel.
There’s one other way to get to and from
Stockholm that we haven’t mentioned, and
we consider it to be the best way: on a cruise
ship.
To view a video about Getting Around
Stockholm, click here.
#10 Capital of Scandinavia
You saw the movie Mamma Mia, right? If not, surely
you know some of the lyrics to the many Abba tunes
that became worldwide hits.
But Abba is only one of Sweden’s exports to the
world. Others include safe cars, like SAAB and Volvo;
Swedish meatballs; Absolut vodka; the Nobel prize;
IKEA; Bjorn Bjorg; Swedish beauty; and much more. Today, “Brand Sweden” ranks among the world’s top ten
strongest brands, according to the annual Country Brand
Index.
Perhaps nowhere is the country’s brand stronger or
more apparent than in the nation’s capital. Walk through
Stockholm, and you can feel its vibrant pulse. The sidewalks
resemble fashion runways, with style-conscious Swedes im-
peccably dressed. Almost anywhere you go, interiors are
fashionable, cozy and candlelit. Cuisine is world-class, with
some of Europe’s best restaurants and chefs.
Stylish and sleek, simple yet sophisticated, Stockholm
once ruled empires vast and wide. Today, the former Viking village is the self-proclaimed “Capital of Scandinavia.” And why not? Centrally located, Sweden’s capital
city is a Nordic hub both in business and in culture. Instead of Stockholmers going abroad for a fix of glamor
and sophistication, visitors are coming to Stockholm for
a taste of the international high life.
With such attention, Stockholmers must feel like
humming the Abba hit, “The winner takes it all.”
For a video about Scandinavia’s capital, click here.
One Perfect Day In Port: Stockholm
Get ready for a full day of touring. You’ll see a lot, but you’ll
a zoo. It’s “miniature Sweden” all
only skim Stockholm’s surface if you’re visiting for the day on a
in one place.
cruise that calls on the Swedish capital.
You’ll leave wanting more. So while you’re touring, know
Plan on at least an hour at the
next “don’t miss” attraction, the
that you can’t see it all on this trip and plan to come back to
Vasa Museum, where you’ll find
cruise from Stockholm, arriving a few days before your cruise so
the Swedish warship that sank in
that you can experience all that this wonderful city has to offer.
1628 and was salvaged 333 years
For now, however, here’s how to
later, then restored to create the
spend one perfect day in port,
only museum of its kind in the world.
If you’re up for a 15-minute
without overwhelming yourself.
walk, point the tips of your shoes
Start in Gamla Stan. If you
do nothing more than wander aim-
to cross the bridge (you’ll see it)
lessly for an hour, you’ll find your
and head to the left along Strand-
time the Old Town well spent.
vagen, one of Stockholm’s favorite
strolling streets. If you’re not up
Fika. What’s that? A Swedish
social institution where catching up with friends meets coffee and
for a walk, take the ferry from near
cakes. Try the kanelbulle, the Swedish cinnamon bun, and a cap-
the Vasa Museum to Nybroviken.
puccino. Where? Chokladkoppen at Stortorget (square), near the
Either way, you’ll arrive at the same
place, in front of the Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern (the Royal
Nobel Museum and Royal Palace.
Dramatic Theater.)
Head for City Hall for an
You’re only appreciating the
overview from City Hall Tower.
While there, admire the Blue Hall,
theater in passing, however, as you
where the Nobel Prize banquet is
walk alongside it up Nybrogatan,
held annually, and the Golden Hall,
situated on the left side facing
with its more than 18 million glass
the theater. Head to Saluhallen,
and gold mosaic piece.
which opened as a market in 1888.
Alternatively, have a reason-
Step inside this “Seattle’s Pike
ably priced lunch at Gondolen
Place Market meets Your Upscale
while admiring the city built on 14
Grocery Store and Food Court” for culinary treats that are a feast
of the eyes and the tummy.
islands from high above.
Return to Strandvagen for
Next, take the ferry from
Gamla Stan to Djurgarden,
shopping at Svenskt Tenn, a
which gives you a view of Stock-
classic design shop featuring print-
holm from the water while getting
ed fabrics and furniture designed
you to the museums at the world’s
by Josef Frank as well as a selection
first national city park. After
of goods that you will not find in
disembarking the ferry, you can
other stores.
Sorry, you’re out of time, but
do a whirlwind tour of Skansen
in, gasp, one hour. Founded in
you’ll enjoy more of Stockholm as you cruise the archipelago back
1891, the world’s oldest open-air
to the Baltic Sea. Pull up a chair on your stateroom balcony and
museum features 150 historic
watch the Swedish capital recede in your wake as you vow to
buildings from all over Sweden and
return.
In a tiny cafe at one end of Gamla Stan’s Stortorget
square, a frothy cappuccino serves as the centerpiece for a
scene that is quintessentially Stockholm. In the center of the
oversized cup, coffee has been
deliberately dripped onto the
foamy realms to form a heart, an
unintended icon that takes the
same shape as Stockholm’s Old
Town when seen from the lofty
heights of City Hall Tower.
The Old Town, or Gamla Stan
as it is known, has been a meeting place since 1252. Today, more
than 800 years later, it continues
to pulsate as the heart of Stockholm.
As on most days here at the uber-cozy, candlelit and tiny
Chokladkoppen, espresso machines hiss as patrons poke their
heads through the front door in hopes of finding a vacant table.
Those sitting at the tables and those wanting to occupy them
are all drawn here by the same primordial urge: the need to fika.
What’s fika? You’ll read about that in a moment. For
now, stay with me. You’re
about to learn how to spend
two days that you’ll never forget in one of the world’s most
beautiful — and fascinating
— cities.
At Chokladkoppen, there
are no available tables, but here,
as in most of Europe, it’s socially
permissible to ask if you can
share a table using the unoccupied chairs. Doing just that,
one couple joins another with
polite acknowledgment. The space comes without obligation
for small talk.
Conversation is seldom initiated in Sweden anyway as the
Swedes are characteristically shy with strangers. And while
some visitors mistake the shyness for coldness, the Swedes are
anything but cold. In fact, it is warmth that they seek in this
nation of prolonged winter darkness (Swedes are rewarded,
however, with glorious summers.)
Along with the pleasant mid-afternoon chatter in
Chokladkoppen, candles flicker on tabletops. Even in summer, you’ll find candles in almost any restaurant you might
walk in to. Soft blankets lay across chairs to break the chill of
spring and autumn.
The Swedes
cherish light and
warmth, and a
visitor doesn’t have
to be in Sweden
long before hearing
the Swedes talking
about a “cozy” this
or that. The word in
Swedish is “mysig,”
defining the Swede’s
seemingly genetic
predisposition to
seek out or create
coziness. The Swedish soul craves coziness so warm and
embracing that it envelops you and wraps itself around you.
Welcome to the capital of the world’s coziest nation.
Day One, Finding Fika
On your first of two perfect days in Stockholm, you’re going
to set out on a quest to find your own fika. Don’t worry: Fika
has no strict rules. If you can drink, eat and talk, you’re qualified to fika.
Your quest begins at the Radisson SAS Strand. Relax. You
didn’t oversleep. The sun rose at 3:30 a.m., and at 8 a.m.,
it looks like noon. The sky will only dim tonight, as the sun’s
glow remains long after it sets at 10 p.m. On the longest day
in June, you’ll have 18 hours, 38 minutes and 26 seconds
between sunrise and sunset to explore Stockholm.
From your corner room, you’re looking out on Nybroviken, the beautiful harbor dotted with colorful passenger
boats. You’ll have ample opportunity to board one later, for
sightseeing or a dinner cruise. The choice is yours.
Take a close look at the city below to get your bearings
before heading down to the lobby level for a sumptuous
breakfast. Oh, and take a look in the mirror. See that label
titled “tourist” on your forehead? It’s time to scrub that off
with some soap and warm water. You’re going to see Stockholm like a local.
Walking The Walk
After fortifying yourself with a hearty Swedish breakfast (go
ahead, along with your eggs and bacon, sample the herring
in dill sauce), head out the front door and look across the
water to your right. That’s your destination, Djurgarden, the
former royal hunting grounds that
became the world’s
first city national
park.
You’ll get there
by walking along
Strandvagen, one
of Stockholm’s most
exclusive streets
(Bjorn Bjorg, among
other Swedish
celebrities, has a
home here). Standing at the entrance
of the Radisson SAS
Strand, you’re looking directly across at
Strandvagen. Now, face left and begin walking toward the
Nybroplan, the square just ahead of you.
Make your way around the harbor to circle back along
Strandvagen. Resist the temptation to hop on the tram that
will take you to Djurgarden (or busses 44 and 47). You can
always take the tram back to Nybroplan and your hotel.
For now, put some glide in your stride and walk with the
many others who are out on Strandvagen headed to their city
park. Make note of the large boat named Stockholm tied up
across from the Hotel Diplomat, as you may want to return
here for a three-hour dinner cruise to the archipelago (brunch
cruises also are offered). If that sounds like too much, opt for
a canal cruise or a city sight-seeing cruise.
Walking along Strandvagen, you can see some of
Stockholm’s best-known museums, situated just across the
water on Djurgarden. You’ll be visiting one of those, the Vasa
Museum, in about 15 minutes from now.
At the moment, however, you’re a local. Continue your
walk, crossing the first bridge you come to and making your
way past the small food kiosk, Djurgardenbrons Sjocafe, to
the Vasa Museum.
Stockholm has more
than 70 museums, but the
crown jewel is the Vasa. It
is almost impossible to prepare yourself for what you
will see inside the museum:
a warship — yes, the actual
ship, not a reproduction
or model — that capsized
after being launched on its
maiden journey in 1628.
The Vasa was brought
up from its watery grave in
1961. Many artifacts were
found in the deep freeze of the harbor, including butter
whose expiration date had long passed.
Do not leave Stockholm without seeing the Vasa, or
you’ll experience a sinking feeling when you return home,
kicking yourself for having missed the city’s most popular
museum. That said, make it snappy. You could spend half a
day marveling at the Vasa, but we’re on a quest. One hour is
all you have.
Head back to the main street Djurgardsvagen and, without crossing, follow the sidewalk until you reach the Bla Porte
Cafe, where you’ll step inside for your first Swedish fika.
To the casual observer (not meaning the newly informed
you), a fika appears to be nothing more than a snack, but
to the Swedes, a fika is when you
take time from your “oh so busy”
life to catch up with friends over
coffee and cake. It’s what we used
to call catching up with friends
before the pace of life became so
hectic.
To understand fika is to begin
to comprehend, at least in part,
the complex Sweden soul. Fika is
an important social institution. “A
fika could be that you take either a
coffee or tea, a sandwich or something sweet, and you sit down and
you talk for hours,” says Karen, a Stockholm tour guide. “It’s
a social coffee break that takes longer than five minutes. You
need the right environment as well.”
You have the right environment here at Bla Porte. Load
your tray with goodies, and be sure to try the Swedish favorite, kanelbulle, a cinnamon bun served in a relatively healthy
proportion unlike the sugar-slathered cousin you get back
home. Order a coffee, pay with your credit card (or Swedish
kroner) and take a seat at the outdoor courtyard. Oh, you are
so local.
Following fika, head across Djurgardsvagen to spend a
couple of hours walking through several centuries of Swedish
history at Skansen. The world’s first outdoor museum serves
up “Old Sweden” or “Sweden
in Miniature,” with farms and
villages reconstructed from
more than 150, 18th, 19th
and 20th century buildings
that have been brought here
from throughout Sweden.
Costumed guides and
performers add to Skansen’s
authenticity. You’ll also enjoy
the zoo, featuring primarily
Nordic animals such as bear,
lynxes, wolves and wolverines.
The walking requires energy,
of course, which rationalizes
your urge to find the 19thcentury bakery in the Old Town Quarter. You’ll find it hard to
resist the freshly baked breads and buns.
After assuring yourself that “no carb was left uneaten,”
exit Skansen’s side entrance and head back toward the bridge
to rent a bike at Djurgardenbrons Sjocafe.
Ask for a map, but don’t worry about getting lost. Good
signage points the way back. As you pedal through this vast
park, you’ll find it easy to forget that you’re in a city of more
than 1.65 million.
Your route takes you along country roads, forest paths,
past small horse pastures and gardens. There is no hint of
city — anywhere. Follow the shoreside and canals around
Djurgarden and, after an hour or so of leisurely riding and
stopping, find your way to Rosendals Tradgard, where you’ll
visit the gardens and greenhouses that belonged to the 19thcentury Rosendal Palace.
For a light lunch, do as the locals do and pick up a glass
of wine and a sandwich from the cafe situated in one of
greenhouses. Then find a shady spot in the apple orchard to
picnic. Most of the food is produced locally or comes from
the gardens.
Should you want something more extravagant, find your
way to Villa Kallhagen, one of Stockholm’s finest restaurants.
Though only five minutes from Stockholm’s city center, Villa
Kallhagen is off the map for tourists outside of Sweden.
You’ll find few of your fellow countrymen dining in this exquisite restaurant in a park setting.
After lunch, return the bike, and head to the ferry landing at the Vasa Museum to cross the water to Nybroplan.
You’ll only need a few coins for the crossing, or just show
the Stockholm Card you purchased after landing at Arlanda
Visitors Center (situated in Terminal 5). The card costs SEK330
for 24 hours and includes most public transport as well as
admission to more than 75 museums and attractions.
You’re not quite done yet. Two more stops before heading back to your hotel. See the beautiful building across from
the ferry landing? That’s Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern.
For the foreign tongue, that’s too much of a mouthful
(Swedish is a difficult language; most foreigners have no
trouble saying the number six, which is pronounced “sex,”
but try saying seven; it sounds like nothing more than the
exhaling of air, but impossible for the non-native Swede to
pronounce properly).
The building is the
Royal Dramatic Theater.
Greta Garbo and Ingrid
Bergman got their start in
acting here, and Ingmar
Bergman staged productions here. But you’re
only appreciating the
theater in passing, as
you walk alongside it up
Nybrogatan, on the left
side facing the theater, to
Saluhallen, which opened
as a market in 1888. The
market goes by several
names, including Saluhallen and Ostermalmshallen. But to sound like a
local, just call it “hallen.”
You’ll blend.
Step inside this
“Seattle’s Pike Place Market meets Your Upscale
Grocery Store and Food
Court” for culinary treats
that are a feast of the
eyes and the tummy. Admire the Swedish goldenhued mushrooms known as chanterrelles, and the colorful
berries, including the Swedish favorite, Jordgubbar, which is
the summer icon of Sweden, known simply as the strawberry.
If you want to appear as a local, bite into a juicy strawberry
(you may want to pay for it first, however).
Exiting the market, walk across the square, Ostermalmstorg, turn right on Sibyllegatan and make your way back to
Strandvagen. Turn left.
You’re going shopping at one of Stockholm’s most exclusive stores. Just a few steps away, at Strandvagen 5, you’ll find
Svenskt Tenn, a classic design shop featuring printed fabrics
and furniture designed by Josef Frank as well as a selection
of goods that you will not find in other stores. That’s because
Svenskt Tenn has exclusive contracts with designers to offer
one-of-a-kind traditional and contemporary Swedish design.
Coincidentally, there are three other recommended hotels
within walking of where you are standing as you exit Svenskt
Tenn. Two are in Stureplan, which is up Birger Jarlsgatan (to
your right as you face the water). Those are Hotel Stureplan
and Scandic Anglais. Both
are reviewed in our hotel
guide.
The other is the Grand
Hotel, situated directly
behind the Radisson SAS
Strand. You’ll be passing it
tomorrow.
For now, if you’re still
up for shopping before returning to your hotel, make
your way toward Stureplan,
taking in the shops along
the way, then returning on
Biblioteksgatan, an upscale
shopping street.
When you reach the
square just before Nybroplan, turn right if you
want to visit Sweden’s
largest department store,
NK, at Hamngatan 18
- 20. The Orrefors shop,
situated on the bottom
floor, has more original
glassware than anywhere
else in the city. Other recommended crystal shops
are Nordiska Kristall and
Vasa Kristall.
Return to your hotel to refresh yourself. Tonight, you’re
on a dinner cruise to the archipelago. Stromma Lines awaits
you directly across the water from your hotel. You’ll visit the
archipelago on what will seem to be an endless summer
night. Exhale. No, you’re not attempting to say the number
seven. You’re relaxing.
Life just doesn’t get any better than this. And get some
rest tonight. You’ll need it. Tomorrow, we tackle Stockholm’s
most popular district, the centuries-old Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town.
Day Two: Getting To Know Gamla Stan
Begin your day as you did yesterday, but on this gorgeous, sunny Stockholm day, you’ll exit the Radisson
SAS Strand’s front door and head to your right instead
of to your left.
Follow the water and the walkway that curves
around the harbor. Take a moment to breathe in the
view when you reach Skeppholmsbron (“bron” means
“bridge”). Looking across Norrstrom harbor, you’re
admiring the Royal Palace (you’re in a kingdom, remember, with a king, queen and princesses). You’re also
looking at your next
destination, Gamla
Stan.
Stroll along the
waterway, passing the
Grand Hotel. You’ll
want to peek inside
to admire the Grand’s
regal public spaces.
Make note of the
Cadierbaren, which
offers a high-tea
service that you’re not
likely to forget. You
may want to return to
the Grand for lunch
at the casual Food Bar, reasonably priced and a palatepleaser. You eat on a tray, but the setting is elegant.
(Note that the Food Bar will not be open for lunch in
July and August 2009).
Continuing along Stromkajen, cross the street and
Strombron (remember “bron” is “bridge”) to Gamla
Stan, the “city between the bridges.” Walk up Palace
Hill, nod to the guard at the top, then head down to
begin exploring Stockholm’s birthplace.
The House of Parliament is on your right, and it’s
not unusual to see fisherman in waders hauling in trout
from the lake waters than run beneath the Parliament.
The locks at Gamla Stan separate Lake Malaren (60
miles long) from the Baltic Sea.
The medieval old town, with its charming cobblestone streets, museums, shops and restaurants, straddles three of 14 islands that make up Stockholm. The
well-preserved Old Town features the original network
of streets, and some of its buildings date from the
Middle Ages.
You’ll need to know a little about the history, so
here goes: Stockholm was first mentioned as a town in
1252 and was largely built by the Swedish ruler Birger
Jarl. It grew rapidly as a result of a trade agreement
made with the German city of Lübeck.
The agreement ensured Lübeck merchants freedom
from customs charges for their trade in Sweden, as
well as the right to settle there. Stockholm came to be
officially regarded as the Swedish capital in 1436. After
conflicts between
the Danes and
Swedes for many
years, Stockholm
was liberated from
Danish rule by
Gustav I Vasa in
1523.
Class dismissed.
Gamla Stan
is relatively small,
so it’s okay, even
preferable, to lose
yourself here. After you’ve walked
past the Royal Palace, you’ll come to Gamla Stan’s main
pedestrian street, Vasterlangatan (“the long western
street”).
You can cross all of Gamla Stan on Vasterlangatan. If you were do so without stopping and with no
crowds, you could make it from one end to the other in
10 to 15 minutes. But Vasterlangatan can be crowded
from mid-morning to mid-afternoon when the weather
is nice, so unless you enjoy walking shoulder-to-shoulder, belly-to-back and toe-to-heel with thousands of
others, you’ll need to permit
yourself to be detoured. I’m
going to tell you now, but
first it’s time for a hot dog.
What is it about the
Scandinavians and hot
dogs? I’ve never seen so
many hot dog stands as in
Scandinavia. Denmark, the nation to the south, is one
of the world’s top (per capita) producers of pork. Hot
dogs stands are to Scandinavia what Starbucks is to
Seattle.
You’ll encounter
your first hot dog stand
at the beginning of
Vasterlangatan. The
owner of the small
kiosk is from the Middle
East and holds a higher
degree in something
like engineering. One
thing that he has surely
engineered is a good
hot dog. Swedish hot
dogs aren’t like American hot dogs in that
they’re actually good
— and okay for you.
You’ll have many varieties to choose from and
some unusual toppings,
including dried onions
and pickles as well as
Senap (a mustard that is
richer than its American
cousin), ketchup and
mayonnaise. Yes, you read correctly,
mayonnaise.
As you are snacking your way
through Stockholm, it’s good to remind yourself that you’re also walking
enough to burn off those extra calories.
From the hot dog stand, make your
way along Vasterlangatan for only a
block before turning left up Storkyrkobrinken, which leads to your first stop,
the 15th-century Gothic Storkyrkan (“Stor” means
“large;” “kyrkan” means “church”), also, thankfully for
the English tongue, called the Stockholm Cathedral, or
Church of St. Nicolas. No matter what you call it, the
church features Scandinavia’s largest medieval monument, a wooden sculpture made of elk antlers and oak
carved in 1489 representing St. George battling a fierce
Dragon. Make a mental note of the sculpture. You’ll see
another version of it, outside, today.
Check your watch, or look up at the clock tower
adorning the cathedral. Don’t look at the clock on the
building across the street,
however. It’s been stuck at
1:50 for as long as I’ve been
coming to Stockholm. If your
watch tells you it’s noon,
make your way to the 18thcentury Royal Palace inner
courtyard for the changing
of the guard at 12:15 each
day except Sundays. During
the tourist season, you need
to be either tall or early to
see the show.
If it’s well before noon,
turn left exiting the church
to visit Gamla Stan’s largest
square, Stortorget (Stor,”
means “large;” and “torget”
means “square”), once the
venue for public hangings
and site of the “Bloodbath
of 1520,” the mass execution of Swedish nobles by a
Danish king that led to revolt
and Sweden’s becoming a sovereign state.
Stortorget today is stunningly beautiful
and bordered by tall, narrow, colorful Amsterdam-like buildings, the Nobel Museum
and one of my favorite Fika shops, the ubercharming and aforementioned Chokladkoppen. Take a seat inside or out for a hot
chocolate or coffee and kanelbolle. Time for
another fika.
Afterward, the Nobel Museum is worth
a gander. If you can’t do the full tour, step inside the
cafe and look under the chairs. It’s okay. They’re light
enough to lift, but do so carefully. Nearly all are signed
by Nobel Laureates who once sat in the chairs. The ice
cream sundae here is delicious, by the way, down to the
gold-wrapped chocolate Nobel coin.
For a Nobel-like dinner, you may want to make
reservations at Gamla Stan’s Golden Fleece, Stockholm’s
oldest restaurant, more than 300 years in operation.
The Nobel Laureates do lunch here during the ceremonies week.
For now, however, it’s time to see the changing of
the guard. Exit the Nobel Museum, turn left and left
again along the small street Kallargrand to get back to
the inner courtyard at the Royal Palace. Don’t miss the
green pissoir on your left. Snapshots of it have landed
in many a photo album.
After the changing of the guard, return to Stortorget, and find your way to Svartmangatan, walk about
a block to Kindstugatan, with its shops, then turn right
on Sjalagardsgatan. Before doing so, however, walk
up to admire the other version of the monument to St.
George and Dragon (remember I told you to make a
mental note of the one in the church?)
Return to Sjalagardsgatan, making your way back to
Svartmangatan. Your only quest on these small streets is
to admire, and oh, by the way, you are looking so local.
Turn on Tyska Stallplan, a short alley that leads to
Prastgatan, where you’ll look for a very narrow alley to
Marten Trotzigs, the restaurant so named for a German
copper dealer who lived here in the 16th century. Half
of Stockholm’s Middle-Age population was German.
At Marten Trotzigs’, you’re back on Vasterlangatan,
but at the opposite end, having avoided the bustle and
crowds.
The entire walk has taken a leisurely two hours,
with visits to cathedral, the changing of the guard, and
shopping. For lunch, you have quite a few choices.
You’re probably fika’d out by now, but if not Stockholm’s oldest fika cafe is near the square. Or you can
stop for lunch al fresco at Martin Trotzig’s at Vasterlanggatan 79.
My recommendation, if you still have some gas in
the legs, is to walk down to the water, across the bridge
and take the Katarinahissen lift, built in 1883, up to the
best-value and best-view lunch in town at Gondolen.
After lunch, make your way to back to Gamla Stan
for more exploration, or head to City Hall to admire the
Blue Hall, where the Nobel Prize banquet is held annually, and the Golden Hall, with its more than 18 million
glass and gold mosaic pieces. Nobel prizes are awarded
each December, except for the Peace prize, which is
awarded in Oslo.
Climb City Hall Tower for a bird’s-eye view of Stockholm. The tower, by the way, is 106 meters tall, a mere
meter higher than Copenhagen’s. Think the two cities
aren’t competitive? Think again.
Not long ago, Copenhagen was thought of as being the more Continental of the two cities. No longer,
Stockholm has proclaimed itself to be the Capital of
Scandinavia. While still distinctly Swedish, Stockholm
now boasts an international flair. But I am digressing.
Back to our quest.
It’s a good thing that Stockholm enjoys 20 hours of
sunlight during summers, because now you’re going on
a boat tour.
At Stadshusbron by the City Hall, board the steampowered SS Drottningholm, built in 1909, for a voyage
through Lake Malaren to Drottningholm Palace, an
hour’s chug away.
A brilliant example of a northern European 18thcentury royal residence, Drottningholm has been home
to the Swedish Royal Family since 1981. Building began
here in 1662. Join a guided tour, and be sure to visit the
court theater, built in 1766. Don’t miss the wonderful
Chinese Pavilion.
You can spend most of the afternoon on the excursion to Drottningholm. When you return, make your
way to the world’s first permanent “Ice
Bar,” situated in the Nordic Sea Hotel,
near Central Station.
The price of admission, SEK 180 if
you book in advance (recommended),
includes use of capes, mitts, and slippers to keep you warm inside the below-freezing bar and an Absolut cocktail (or lingonberry
juice) served in glasses made from 100% pure, clear ice
from the Torne River in Swedish Lapland. In fact, the
whole interior of the bar is built from the ice. Hold on
to your glass, by the way, as refills are only SEK 95.
Toasting, by the way, is a ritual in Sweden. Bring
your ice glass so that it’s level with your sternum. Look
your companion in the eyes, nod, say “skål!” and drink.
Then lower the glass and look your companion in the
eye again. You are so local.
Your tour — or time in the bar — lasts 40 minutes.
You can always leave early if you’re too cold. Want a
souvenir? Purchase ice glasses, packed in a special box
to keep them from melting — guaranteed for 24 hours.
After your cocktail, find a special place for dinner
before returning to your hotel. The favorite of Evert
Taube, the famous author, artist, composer and singer
who lived from 1890 - 1976, was Den Gyldene Freden
(the aforementioned Golden Fleece), which has been
a restaurant in Gamla Stan since 1722. Taube’s bronze
statute stands nearby.
Although the sky isn’t completely dark when you exit
the restaurant at midnight, your day is coming to an end,
and with it, your two perfect days in Stockholm.
In two full turns of the clock, a mere 48 hours,
Stockholm has revealed something of its soul to you,
but trust me, there’s much, much more. We’ll save that
for another day, another time, another visit.
One More Day: The Archipelago
If you are in Stockholm
for a few days, venture
out to the archipelago
on ships that depart
from the city center.
It’s about a two-hour
journey to Sandhamn,
a small village where
you can have lunch at
Sandhamns Vardshus before setting out on kayaks
for smaller, uninhabited islands just a few miles away.
Return to relax in the sauna before boarding the ship to
Stockholm. The experience is quintessentially Swedish.
stockholmcruise.com
Stockholm Hotel Guide
Eight Stockholm Sleeps
Stockholm’s
Best Hotels
Radisson SAS Strand Hotel
Best Location, to begin a walking tour.
standard room (left)
bathroom (below)
The Facts — A traditional seven-story hotel in a convenient and quiet city-center
location overlooking the Stockholm waterfront, the Radisson SAS Strand Hotel opened
in time for the 1912 Stockholm Olympic Games. Close to key city attractions including
Gamla Stan (Stockholm’s Old Town), as well as Djurgarden and the designer shops in
Ostermalm, Radisson SAS Strand Hotel is our choice as a base for those who want
to explore Stockholm on foot. The hotel serves up a hearty breakfast to get you
started, and a lounge offers cocktails when you return from your day out in Stockholm.
Cozy Digs — The Strand Hotel has 152 guest rooms, most of which have waterfront views through grand, oversized windows.
Room categories include standard, superior and four
types of suites. The Tower is an exceptional twostory suite located in the tower of the hotel with a
private terrace and amazing views (pictured left) of
Stockholm and the waterfront.
Final Word — If your goal is to explore Stockholm on foot, you couldn’t do better than to pitch camp at Radisson SAS Strand Hotel. Its proximity to Strandvagen,
which leads to the attractions in Djurgarden (the national city park), and easy access
to both the Old Town and City Center, make this hotel the ideal choice for exploring Stockholm — and relaxing afterward.
hotel amenities
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing board, safe
in room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Free access to sauna and
a small gym on the top
floor
sample rate
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009,
(two nights, two people)
US$243 per night for
standard guest room
with breakfast included.
category
PPPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
Nearest Metro Station
Kungstradgarden, a
pleasant four-minute
walk from the hotel and
only one stop from Central Station, which connects to Arlanda Express
for the 20-minute transfer to Arlanda airport.
RADISSON SAS
STRAND HOTEL
Guests at Radisson SAS Strand
Captionwill
for appreciate
video here.the hotel’s
Stockholm
location, situated at Nybrokajen 9,
on the waterfront where sightseeing
boats depart regularly for city tours,
archipelago tours and dinner cruises.
The hotel is within walking distance
of Stockholm’s major attractions.
Our favorite guest rooms: the corner suites, and the Tower Suite, with
views looking out over all of Stockholm. Our walking tour begins here,
in the article Two Perfect Days.
Grand Hotel Stockholm
Most Stately Hotel Name In Stockholm.
large room (left)
lobby (below)
The Facts — For a touch of prestige within walking distance of Stockholm’s best
attractions, the Grand Hotel serves as a convenient — and comfortable — home
base. This architecturally impressive Intercontinental property first opened in 1874
and has been constantly upgraded and renovated. The Grand’s restaurants include
The Veranda, offering a traditional Swedish menu and a popular Smorgasbord, as
well as two distinct spaces overseen by leading Swedish chef Mathias Dahlgren, Michelin Star-rated Matsalen and the more casual, but excellent, Food Bar. The Cadier
Bar, named for the hotel’s founder, offers a must-experience high tea service as well
as a lounge for relaxation and some unobtrusive live music.
Cozy Digs — The Grand is regally impressive. With a total of 368 rooms, including 37 suites, the Grand offers five room categories, ranging from smallish singles
to commodious Deluxe rooms. In addition, there are several categories of suites,
ranging from two-room Juniors to Parlours with up to five rooms. If you are planning a “royal” family reunion, you might consider the two-bedroom Princess Lilian
Suite with a home theater for 12 and access to limousine service.
Final Word — Perfectly situated across from Sweden’s Royal Palace and the Parliament building on one side and harbor views on the other, the Grand Hotel truly
lives up to its name. Large and luxurious and steeped in Swedish history, this hotel
is the preferred address in Stockholm for those who seek out the best.
hotel amenities
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing board
available upon request;
safe in room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and
treatments
sample rate
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009,
(two nights, two people)
US$243 per night for small
double room with breakfast
included.
category
PPPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
Nearest Metro Station
Kungstradgarden, a
pleasant four-minute
walk from the hotel and
only one stop from Central Station, which connects to Arlanda Express
for the 20-minute transfer to Arlanda airport.
GRAND HOTEL
STOCKHOLM
Over the past 125-plus years, many
of the world’s best-known names
have made the Grand their home
address when in Stockholm. In his
suite at the Grand, Charlie Chaplin
chatted with Ingmar Bergman on a
visit in 1964. Distinguished guests,
heads of state and celebrities have
all chosen the Grand as their hotel
of choice. The city’s stately dame has
even hosted the Nobel Laureates, ever
since the first prize was awarded in
Stockholm in 1901.
Hilton Stockholm Slussen
Best View, from the rooms facing Gamla Stan.
junior suite (left)
reception (below)
The Facts — Just steps away across a bridge from Gamla Stan (Stockholm’s Old
Town) and right next to the Slussen metro station, the Hilton Stockholm Slussen is
a sleek and modern hotel situated atop a small cliff on the trendy island of Sodermalm. The contemporary design of the hotel’s three buildings and its furnishings are
brightly accented by two-toned wood trim matching the modern decor. The central
lobby is spacious, with views looking out on Gamla Stan. Hilton Stockholm Slussen
has two restaurants, including an award-winning breakfast included in the room
rate, and two bars, one overlooking the city.
Cozy Digs — Many of the rooms have large windows with views of the Old Town
and Riddarfjarden’s calm waters. Within the three broad categories are standard
guest rooms that measure 150 square feet; suites, from 323 to 654 square feet; and
Deluxe and Executive Rooms, at 172 square feet and with access to the Executive
Lounge.
Final WOrd — Conveniently situated in the up-and-coming Sodermalm neighborhood, Hilton Slussen is just across the water from Stockholm’s tourist and museum
districts, which can be accessed easily by foot. The property has all the amenities one
would expect of a Hilton, including a full complement of business services, a fitness
room, Jacuzzi and solarium, as well as cribs and babysitting service.
hotel amenities
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing board
available upon request;
safe in room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and
treatments
sample rate
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009, (two
nights, two people) US$152
per night for Queen Room
with breakfast included.
category
PPPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
HILTON SLUSSEN
Nearest Metro Station
Slussen, an easy twominute walk from the
hotel and only two
stops from Central Station, which connects to
Arlanda Express for the
20-minute transfer to
Arlanda airport.
Hilton Stockholm Slussen is situated
in trendy Sodermalm, directly across
a bridge from Stockholm’s Old Town.
Sodermalm, with its good shopping,
bars and restaurants, is home to
SoFo, so named because it is comprised of the streets south of Folkungagatan (get it? like Manhattan’s district south of Houston Street, Soho?).
SoFo is young, hip and laid-back, with
artists and designers adding their
personal imprints to the shops, boutiques, bars, cafes and restaurants.
Hotel Stureplan
Best Bollinger Champagne Bar.
standard room (left)
bathroom (below)
The Facts — An inviting and historic 19th century boutique hotel situated in the heart
of Stockholm, Hotel Stureplan is a classic European hotel set within the cityscape rather
than dominating the neighborhood. The Stureplan’s restaurant Per Lei provides classic
Northern Italian cuisine in relaxed informal surroundings and serves a complimentary buffet breakfast daily. During the summer months, the restaurant extends to a terrace for al
fresco dining. The Bollinger Champagne Bar serves a wide range of vintage wines, with
scheduled tastings, as well as fine champagne. Guests may use the next-door Sturebadet
Spa at a reduced rate, including the pool, sauna, steam rooms and fitness equipment.
Cozy Digs — One of Stockholm’s newest hotels (opened during the summer of
2008), the elegant property has 101 rooms, with décor throughout that is light and
warm, inspired by traditional Swedish craftsmanship with specially designed handmade furniture that combines nicely with the crystal chandeliers throughout the hotel, even in the guest rooms. Some rooms overlook either bustling Birger Jarlsgatan,
or a peaceful inner courtyard and can include a balcony, bay window or open fire.
Final Word — Hotel Stureplan is situated in the heart of Stockholm, close to the
city’s central business district as well as shops, restaurants, theaters, galleries and
museums, and nightlife. The Royal Opera House and Dramaten theater are nearby.
This is an elegant and comfortable place to stay, that feels like having your own
apartment, that’s convenient for visiting the attractions of Stockholm.
hotel amenities
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing board available upon request; safe in
room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and
treatments
sample rate
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009,
(two nights, two people)
US$154 per night for
Small Room with breakfast
included.
category
PPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
HOTEL STUREPLAN
Nearest Metro Station
Ostermalmstorg, a pleasant four-minute walk
from the hotel and only
one stop from Central
Station, which connects
to Arlanda Express for
the 20-minute transfer to
Arlanda airport.
Hotel Stureplan features the world’s
only Bollinger Champagne Bar, where
you can enjoy a glass of Bollinger
Special Cuvée or celebrate with a bottle of 1999 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes
Francaises. Don’t miss the afternoon
champagne, served Thursday through
Saturday 3 p.m. until 5 p.m. For dinner, you need go no further than the
Hotel Stureplan’s own Per Lei, which
features classic Northern Italian cuisine
using traditional ingredients with a
modern touch.
Scandic Anglais
Best ‘Green’ Hotel, environmentally friendly.
standard room (left); bar 101 (above)
gym (below)
The Facts — Both stylish and efficiently managed, the Scandic Anglais is a modern,
centrally located hotel that stakes a claim as being environmentally friendly while
providing comfortable and stylish accommodations. True to its “green” philosophy,
the hotel provides an attractive bottle in rooms that guests may fill with Stockholm
drinking water, which, the hotel says, ranks among the “world’s best water.” Bicycles
also are available free of charge, although the Scandic, situated in trendy Stureplan,
is within walking distance of most of the city’s attractions. The ground floor houses
a long bar and lounge, popular with the after-work crowd, and the breakfast area
and reception. In the adjacent shop, guests can buy salads and sandwiches for quick
meals on the go or to stock their mini-bars back in their rooms.
hotel amenities
Cozy Digs — The 230 rooms at Scandic Anglais fall under three categories: Cabin,
a cozy 129 square feet, designed primarily for those who simply need a place to sleep
while on business in Stockholm; Superior, 301 square feet and with views over the
park Humlegarden from your private balcony; and spacious suites.
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009,
(two nights, two people)
US$139 per night for
Double Room with
breakfast included.
FINAL WORD — The Scandic Anglais is located in the heart of Stockholm’s shopping and nightclub district. Also, the hotel bar is a popular local hangout for young
professionals, especially on weekends. The hotel features a new, quieter bar on the
second floor. Scandic Anglais also offers a spa with hot tubs, Swedish sauna and
gym, and the entire property is set up for wireless internet.
category
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing boards
in rooms; safe in room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and
treatments
• Kids Stay Free
sample rate
PPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
SCANDIC ANGLAIS
Nearest Metro Station
Ostermalmstorg, a pleasant three-minute walk
from the hotel and only
one stop from Central
Station, which connects
to Arlanda Express for
the 20-minute transfer to
Arlanda airport.
The Scandic chain used to transport 4
million bottles of water annually to its
hotels. That was unsustainable, management felt, which is why the chain
now invests in the best water there
is — H2O from its own tap. In guest
rooms, you’ll find attractive handblown glass water bottles designed
by an Olympic swimmer, who has
an obvious affection for water, and
a glass designer. Either fill from your
sink or from water dispensers that
serve still or sparkling. Your cost: $0.
Sheraton Hotel
Biggest Hotel, with 465 guest rooms.
standard room (left)
bathroom (below)
The Facts — The newly refurbished Sheraton Stockholm is a large downtown hotel in a
convenient location for touring Stockholm and offering stunning views of Lake Mälaren.
Opposite the waterfront and not far from either the Central Station for the Metro or the
Arlanda Express for transport to and from the airport, the Sheraton is only a short walk
over a bridge to Gamla Stan (the Old Town) and numerous other city attractions.
COZY DIGS — The hotel employs warm contemporary colors, and a pleasant contemporary design gives its public spaces and each of its 465 guest rooms a distinctly
Swedish look. All rooms were renovated in 2007 and updated with the latest technology and modern amenities. The Sheraton offers the largest average room size
in the city. Room categories include Classic or Superior rooms, suites or rooms on
the Club Floor, and all feature the celebrated Sheraton Sweet Sleeper Bed with its
plush mattress, crisp white cotton sheets, and soft goose feather and down pillows.
Located on the 7th floor, Sheraton Club guest rooms offer upgraded amenities, free
bottled water, and complimentary Club Lounge and fitness center access, as well as
private check-in services and business amenities.
Final Word — For the reliable comfort of an international hotelier, the Sheraton
Stockholm is a solid choice that provides excellent access to this beautiful city. For
dining and relaxing, the Threesixty serves both needs, and the property provides easy
access to the delightful establishments of Stockholm.
hotel amenities
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing board available upon request; safe in
room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and
treatments
sample rate
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009,
(two nights, two people)
US$150 per night for
Superior Room with
breakfast included.
category
PPPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
Nearest Metro Station
Central Station, a five-minute walk from the
hotel. Central Station connects to Arlanda
Express for the 20-minute transfer to Arlanda airport.
SHERATON STOCKHOLM
If you require room to stretch out,
the Sheraton Stockholm may just
be your best bet. Not only is the
Sheraton Stockholm the city’s largest
property but also the hotel features
the city’s largest average room sizes.
The Sheraton Stockholm is situated
almost equidistant between Old Town
and Central Station, giving guests
good access to both. The hotel also
features conference facilities for those
who are bringing groups to Stockholm and need a meeting place.
Radisson SAS Royal Viking
Most Convenient City Hotel To Airport.
suite (left)
sky bar (below)
The Facts — Situated next to the central station and Arlanda Express (which offers
easy access to Arlanda International Airport), the Radisson SAS Royal Viking offers
459 rooms and suites in an extremely convenient Stockholm location. You can easily
wheel your luggage from the Arlanda Express to this hotel.
In the hotel, you will find a fitness center with gym, pool, Jacuzzi and sauna, although guests not booked in deluxe rooms or suites do pay a fee for these services.
The Radisson Royal Viking also features a highly-recommended restaurant,
Stockholm Fisk, and the SkyBar on the 9th floor provides fantastic views of the
Stockholm skyline.
Cozy Digs — All rooms are fully equipped for business and leisure travelers and offer free WiFi Internet. The décor is a mix of modern and classic design, and the suite
balconies offer a fantastic view over the waterways and City Hall.
FiNal Word — Radisson SAS Royal Viking is nonetheless a solid choice for visiting the city, with reliable services and the expected amenities. Surrounded by a lively
restaurant and café area, the hotel provides easy walking access to the Old Town
district and fashionable shopping areas, as well as the train and metro system — and
Arlanda Airport, only 20 minutes away on Arlanda Express.
hotel amenities
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing board available upon request; safe in
room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and
treatments
sample rate
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009,
(two nights, two people)
US$166 per night for
Standard Room with
breakfast included.
category
PPPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
RADISSON SAS
ROYAL VIKING
Nearest Metro Station
Central Station, a lessthan-one-minute walk
from the hotel. Central
Station connects to
Arlanda Express for the
20-minute transfer to
Arlanda airport.
If you’re looking to sleep near the rail
station and not in it, Radisson SAS
Royal Viking is as close as you can
get. That makes the hotel extremely
convenient for those arriving on
international flights. Simply hop on
Arlanda Express at the airport, and 20
minutes later wheel your luggage into
the hotel lobby. After a rest, when
you’re ready to explore Stockholm,
ask the friendly concierge for advice,
then walk a few steps to Central Station to connect to your destination.
Nordic Light Hotel
Hippest Hotel
superior mood room (left)
reception (below)
The Facts — Featuring minimalist design, the Nordic Light Hotel is puts a strong
accent on style, with a striking lobby that is redecorated four times a year.
Cozy Digs — This modern boutique hotel has more than a little funk. The unique
mood rooms allow guests to adjust the colored lighting to create their own light
therapy treatments. The treatments reportedly use infrared light to increase circulation and detoxify the body.
These mood rooms, with light beds that allows guests to adjust the intensity and
colors of the lights, are available in three categories: Deluxe Mood, the hotel’s largest
and most luxurious room; Superior Mood and Standard Mood. There are also three
categories of standard rooms without the mood lighting.
FINAL WORD — A convenient location for experiencing Stockholm, Nordic Light
is something of a destination itself with its
young and hip motif, including all the electronic conveniences. The hotel has a small
gym and spa, and across the street, the sister
property, the Nordic Sea Hotel, is home of the
famous Absolut Ice Bar. The metro station and
Arlanda Express are so close that you could
easily wheel your luggage to the hotel.
hotel amenities
• Dry cleaning and express
laundry service
• Irons, ironing board available upon request; safe in
room
• Wireless Internet access
throughout the hotel
• Air Conditioning
• Health Club with gym and
treatments
sample rate
Sample rate for
July 10 - July 12, 2009,
(two nights, two people)
US$220 per night for
Standard Queen Room.
Buffet breakfast: an
additional $23 per person.
category
PPPPP
stockholmcruise.com
Where to find it
NORDIC LIGHT
HOTEL
Nearest Metro Station
Central Station, a lessthan-one-minute walk
from the hotel. Central
Station connects to
Arlanda Express for the
20-minute transfer to
Arlanda airport.
Nordic Light Hotel is not only Stockholm’s hippest hotel, with guest
rooms that feature mood lights, but
also Stockholm’s coolest hotel. In fact,
for the quintessential Stockholm cool,
head across the street to sister hotel
Nordic Sea and its Absolut Ice Bar.
Nordic Light also has its own hip bars,
should you not feel like donning a
parka to have a drink, and the hotel’s
wine cellar features one of Europe’s
largest collections of North American
wines.
Recommended Stockholm Hotels
The Avid Cruiser's Recommended Stockholm Hotels
Best for cruise passengers, stockholmcruise.com
The Avid Cruiser's recommended Stockholm hotels for cruise passengers, www.cruisingfromstockholm.com
BE
Scandic Anglais
Humlegardsgatan 23
Stockholm, Sweden
Our Choice: Best ‘Green’ Hotel,
environmentally friendly
H
G
A
C
F
Sheraton Stockholm
Tegelbacken 6
Stockholm, Sweden
Our Choice: Biggest Hotel, with
465 guest rooms
0.5km
0.5mi
©2009 Yahoo! Inc.
A
Radisson SAS Strand Hotel
Nybrokajen 9
Stockholm, Sweden
Hotel Stureplan
Birger Jarlsg.
Our24Choice: Best Location To Begin
Stockholm , Sweden
A Walking
Tour
Our Choice
For: Best Bollinger
Champagne Bar
Grand Hotel
Sdra Blasieholmshamnen 8
Stockholm
Our Choice For: Most Stately Hotel Name In Stockholm
B
Hotel Stureplan
Birger Jarlsg. 24
Hilton Slussen
Stockholm, Sweden
Guldgrnd 8
Stockholm , Sweden
Our Choice: Best Bollinger ChamOur Choice For: Best View From Rooms Facing Gamla Stan
pagne Bar
F
G
D
Radisson SAS Strand Hotel
Nybrokajen 9
Stockholm , Sweden
Our Choice For: Best Location To Begin A Walking Tour
E
Grand Hotel
Sodra Blasieholmshamnen 8
Stockholm, Sweden
Our Choice: Most Stately Hotel
Name In Stockholm
Hilton Slussen
Guldgrnd 8
Stockholm, Sweden
Our Choice: Best View From
Rooms Facing Gamla Stan
C
A
B
C
D
D
Scandic Anglais
Humlegrdsgatan 23
Stockholm , Sweden
Our Choice For: Best ‘Green’ Hotel, environmentally friendly
E
Sheraton Stockholm
Tegelbacken 6
Stockholm , Sweden
Our Choice For: Biggest Hotel, with 465 guest rooms
F
Radisson Royal Viking
Vasagatan 1
Stockholm , Sweden
Our Choice For: Most Convenient City Hotel To Airport
G
Nordic Light Hotel
Vasaplan 7
Stockholm , Sweden
H
Royal Viking
Vasagatan 1
Stockholm, Sweden
Our Choice: Most Convenient City
Hotel To Airport
Nordic Light Hotel
Vasaplan 7
Stockholm, Sweden
Our Choice: Hippest Hotel
H
For more reviews and video snapshots of the hotels as well as an
interactive hotel map and other
travel information for Stockholm,
visit stockholmcruise.com.