Get to Know Your WindRider Rave

Owners Manual
Important Safety Information About Your
WindRider Rave Hydrofoil Trimaran
CAUTIONiThe mast and rigging or your Rave conduct electricity. Always look
.Overhead for wires when rigging, transporting, launching and sailing your Rave.
"Failure to do so could result in serious injury or death.
:
Hydrofoil sailing has many things in common with sailing conventional boats, but in some ways it is vastly different- The
potential speed of a hydrofoil-based craft is much higher than that of most sailing craft and demands respect and caution.
•
Always inspect the rigging, crosstubes, foils, control assemblies, and sails before sailing your WindRider Rave. If any of
these parts require maintenance, do this before sailing. A (allure at foiling speeds can have severe consequences.
•
Sail under complete control. This means sailing at speeds appropriate for conditions and traffic. Rave can sail at speeds
that leave little time to react to changing conditions. Leave plenty of margin for error; a collision with debris (logs,
crabpots, etc.) or other craft can lead to serious injuries or fatalities. Always look around you before you turn.
•
Be aware of water depth where you sail. The WindRider Rave requires a minimum of five feet of dear depth (no weeds
or other obstructions) for safe hydrofoiling.
•
The stability of the WindRider Rave is aided by the foils. At rest, stability is reduced, and increases as the boat
accelerates. For this reason, you should always apply power gradually.
•
Respect local, state, and federal laws regarding the operation of your Rave. Make sure yourWindRider Rave meets all
applicable registration requirements.
•
Boat modifications are a common part of speedsailing. Keep in mind, however, that hydrofoils in general - and the
WindRider Rave specifically - operate under very high stress loads. Some modifications could increase the risk of
structural failure and/or void our limited lifetime warranty.
•
WindRider Rave's trampolines are for boarding only. Do not sit, stand, or carry passengers on them while the boat is in
motion.
Get to Know Your WindRider Rave
An Introduction to Thermal Plastics
YourWindRider Rave's hulls are molded of
polyethylene, a thermal plastic. This material allows us to
build hulls that offer an excellent balance of light weight,
area is warm, place a weight inside the hull, atop the dented
area, and allow it to cool.
If your Rave is stored off its trailer on land, the boat is
strength, resilience, durability, and low cost. The process
best supported by its hydrofoils rather than the plastic main
used to build these hulls is called rotational molding.
hull. With the boat on flat ground, lower each main foil until
Polyethylene powder is placed in a mold, which is heated.
it latches in the half-down notch. You will have to lift each
The polyethylene liquifies, and the mold is rocked and
outrigger slightly to get the foil to latch. Lower the rudder
rotated to distribute the plastic. Once this cycle is complete,
foil to the half-down latch also. Make sure the hydrofoils and
the mold is separated and the hull removed.
rudder are supported in the center, not only at wingtips. The
Because polyethylene is a thermal plastic and is altered
by heat and pressure, it is important that you take a few
simple precautions to ensure that your boat's hulls maintain
main hull should now be supported just off the ground,
removing all pressure from the hull.
Any trailer used to transport your Rave should support
their appearance and proper shape. Occasionally, dents (or
the Rave primarily by the main crossbeam, like the Rave
"wows") can occur in the hulls of your Rave. To correct
trailer available from your dealer. This keeps excess pressure
this, place the affected hull in direct sunlight for a day and
off the polyethylene hulls while trailering.
then allow it to cool. The plastic's memory should return
the hull to its original shape.
If this doesn't correct the problem, hold a hair drier a
Clean the polyethylene hulls periodically. The surface of
a polyethylene boat contains tiny pores that can trap dirt and
road tar. Use Simple Green" and a pressure washer to
few inches from the hull (preferably on the inside) and warm
remove this grime. Apply a UV protectant like 303"
the affected area. Take care not to melt the hull. Once the
periodically to protect your boat from harmful UV rays.
^
It's Sailing. It's Flying. It's Hydrofoiling.
Welcome to the World ofWindRider Rave.
Thanks for choosing a WindRider^ Rave and becoming part oftheWindRider trimaran revolution.
We're excited about this unique recreational hydrofoiling machine and think you'll share our enthusiasm.
TheWindRider Rave is a different way to sail fast. Speed sailing has long been the territory of sailboards,
beach cats, overpowered planing hulls, and esoteric one-offs. No more. Rave uses proven technology to sail
at speeds beyond the capabilities of most wind-powered craft. It offers exotic performance at a relatively
modest price.
Rave's designers, Dr. Sam Bradfield, Mike McGarry, and Tom Haman, are among the elite of the speedsailing set. Dr. Bradfield has set world records and explored the practical boundaries of hydrofoil sailing.
Now, his knowledge and experience, and in-house R & D Director Rick Jones' practical savvy, have made
Rave a reality.
This owner's manual will help you learn more about yourWindRider Rave hydrofoil/trimaran and its
safe operation. Inside, you'll discover how to assemble, sail, transport, and care for your Rave.We've tried to
illustrate important information in simple, clear language.We think you'll appreciate this approach, and
encourage you to become thoroughly familiar with yourWindRider Rave before you go sailing.
We've enclosed a warranty registration card in this manual. Please complete and return it within 90
days of purchase to activate your warranty. The U.S. Coast Guard hull number for your Rave is etched into
the plastic on the top back corner of the starboard side of each hull.We also invite your comments and
suggestions; include them on your registration card, or write or e-mail us. If you have questions about your
WindRider Rave, your dealer will be glad to assist you.
Fair Winds to You,
Andy Zimmerman
President
WindRider
Mailing Address
Shipping Address
Telephone
Fax
E-Mail
Web
John Sheppard
Vice President
Keith Zwart
Sales Manager
PO Box 4339 Archdale, NC 27263 USA
3761 Old Glenola Rd.Trinity, NC 27370 USA
(336)434-7470
(336)434-6912
[email protected]
http://www.windride.com
Mike McGarry
Technical Specialist
Caring for theWindRider Rave
The Rave is designed to be a durable, long lasting boat,
but it will require maintanance to assure performance and
Sail Care
Sails should be stored dry and free of salt and dirt. They
longevity.
should be rolled to prevent folding the mylar laminates. If
Rinse
assure that each batten remains parallel to the roll.
The entire Rave should be thoroughly rinsed after each
sailing trip to prevent accumulation of salt, mud and sand in
working parts and to maintain the Rave's appearance. Pay
special attention to all metal parts that will corrode if they
remain salty. Moving parts should be rinsed to assure their
rolled with the battens in the sails, care should be taken to
To ease raising the mainsail, the luff rope can be
lubricated with a dry sail lubricant such as McLube Sailkote.
Sealants
Drain plugs and inspection ports are installed with
action will remain smooth.
sealant at the factory. Should these fittings ever need to be
Lubricate
called "Marine GOOP" available at most home maintenance
The dagger (or vertical) section of the hydrofoils and
rudder should be lubricated with a dry lubricant such as
McLube Sailkote" to assure they slide up and down
smoothly. Dry lube can also be used on all moving contact
surfaces such as the mast step ball/socket, wand control
pivot assembly and pushrod ends. Metal pans and fasteners
can be lubricated with normal marine lubricants to prevent
corrosion.
replaced or simply resealed, it can be done with an adhesive
stores. Goop can also be used to reinstall the plastic
wingtips on the foils if they are ever taken off for service.
The mast is a sealed section, meaning the halyards do
not penetrate the mast (which would allow water inflow in
the unlikely event of a capsize). Sailors who will choose to
"push the limits" may like to further seal the mast, as many
aggressive small boat sailors do. This can be done by rubbing
silicone caulk over and around all rivets, screws and fittings
on the mast annually to ensure their seals remain sound.
This will provide an extended period of time to right the
boat in the unlikely event that that a capsize occurs.
Assembling and Disassembling theWindRider Rave
YourWindRider Rave is very easy to assemble and disassemble, particularly when it is sitting on theWindRider Rave
trailer. With a litde practice, assembly takes only 20 minutes for one person to accomplish.
WindRider Rave Assembly - Getting Started
You should have the following uninstalled components on
hand before starting:
Outrigger
Hulls
1
2
Main Hull
Outrigger
Crosstube Bolts
Crosstube Nuts
Lock Washers
Flat Washers
Lower Shroud Chainplates
Rigging
I
Mast
I
Mainsail
I
Blade Jib
Blade jib
F—l
I
Mast Retaining Pin
I
I
Upper shrouds/headsoy combination
Lower shroud set
Foils
2
Control Wand Assemblies
2
Outrigger Foil Assemblies
WindRider Rave Assembly
Main Foil & Outrigger Assemblies
When assembling your WindRider Rave on its trailer, you typically will not have to assemble the main foils. If the main foils
are assembled, proceed to the next section. For this job, you will need two 7116" wrenches and one I IT wrench.
1. If it is necessary to assemble the foils, begin with the
outriggers on their holders, parallel to the ground. Slide
the foil dagger (make sure the foil control flaps are facing
the outrigger stern) through the bottom of the dagger
box. Hold the dagger in position, pull the foil latch cord
(red), and slide the dagger toward the top of the
outrigger until the top of the dagger passes the latch.
Release the latch cord and continue sliding the dagger
through until it locks into place.
2.
Place the wand control head casting on the outside top
of the foil dagger. Locate the two bolt holes on the head;
insert each bolt through a lock washer and then through
the foil dagger and into the control head.Turn the bolt
until finger-tight. A light coating of grease on the bolt
threads will make disassembly easy in the future if the
need arises. Repeat with the second retaining bolt, then
tighten both with a wrench until secure.
3.
Lift the internal control flap pushrod until the bolt hole
in it is lined up with the bolt hole in the wand control
pivot. Pass the retaining bolt through its washer, the
control arm, the pushrod, and the nylock nut. The push
rod can be bolted to either side of the pivot arm; the
correct side is the one that allows the linkage to push
the flap down completely without binding on the side of
the foil at the top of the vertical member. One side will
fit better than the other. Tighten until secure, then loosen
the nut one-half turn. Note: Do not overtighten; the
pushrod linkage must be able to move freely.
WindRider Rave Assembly
Outriggers
Assembly ofyourWindRider Rave usually begins with the outriggers. The Rave trailer is equipped with hinged crosstube
supports that enable one person to easily manage this task. You will need two 3/4" wrenches for this assembly.
Main crossbeam should be securely tied to the trailer
uprights on either side of the main hull. This will keep
the boat stable while assembling.
2.
Release one outrigger, and supporting it at its center,
allow it to pivot until horizontal.
3.
Stand behind the crossbeam stub on the inside of the
outrigger. Put your outside hand on the leading edge of
the dagger board, while your inside hand grasps the
underside of the crossbeam stub. Lift the outrigger until
the hull rests on your hip and lift the beam stub as you
slide it off the trailer socket- NOTE: Use care not to
grasp the trailing edge of the hydrofoils; they are sharp
for optimal hydrodynamics.
4.
Slide the crossbeam stub into the center tube on the
main hull.
If there is any water in the outrigger, remove the drain
plug by rotating it counterclockwise. Then rotate the
rear of the outrigger downward until the transom
touches the ground. Water will drain freely. When
drained, replace drain plug.
Align the bolt holes on the crosstube stub and center
tube mounting flanges. Hash marks on the top of flanges
allow you to check alignment- Locate the top, front
mounting hole. Locate the lower shroud chainplate. From
the outside, slide a bolt through the lower shroud
chainplate and both flanges. Secure the bolt with a lock
washer and nut until finger-tight
Repeat Step S for the three remaining crosstube bolts
nuts and washers, replacing the lower shroud chainplate
' S-"" ai'i"'"'!'!!!)!,,
^&__^ „
with a flat washer. Check alignment marks on the
^^^^^_
crosstube flanges and adjust if needed.
^^^^^|
Alignment mark
Tighten crosstube bolts until secure, leaving the lower
shroud chainplates pointed upward and angled slightly
forward.
9.
Repeat Steps I-7 for the remaining crosstube and
outrigger.
^iialNtij,]^^
WindRider Rave Assembly
Raising The Mast
WARNING
Make sure there are no electrical power lines overhead or between you and the launch
site before raising mast. Contact with them could result in serious injury or death.
For the attachment of shrouds, place the mast where it
is easily accessible. Locate the upper shrouds/forest^
combination. Shackle this to the upper hounds fitting on
the leading edge of the mast in such a manner that the
jib halyard block is on the port side of the headstay.
Secure the shackle pin with a pair of pliers, and wire for
safety.
Locate the lower shrouds (lighter gauge wires). Shackle
them to the lower hounds fitting on the leading edge of
the mast Secure the shackle pin with a pair of pliers, and
wire for safety.
3.
Place the mast on the port, aft outrigger support, with
the mast base on the mast step ball. Make sure the
downhaul cleat located on the lower mast is facing up to
avoid damaging the deck.
4.
Slide the fastpin through both holes in the mast socket
9
5. Lay out the shrouds so they are straight and free of
Wists. Attach the upper shrouds to the chainplates on
the outriggers. Secure with stay adjusters,
clevis pins, and split rings.
Run the block and tackle on the jib
halyard forward and clip it to the aft
hole on the bow fitting. Run the tail
through the cheek block on the bow
and back to the camdeat on the beam
where you can reach it once the mast
is up.
Move to the front cockpit. Double check that both the
port and starboard upper shrouds are attached on both
ends. Place your shoulder under the mast
and rotate the mast up and forward in one
continuous smooth motion.
Once the mast is completely upright, use the jib halyard
to temporarily secure the mast- Then grasp the headstay
and move to the bow of the boat.
Secure the headstay to the forward hole in the bow
fitting, using the stay adjuster and clevis pins. Tension on
the headstay should be tight after you ease tension on
the jib halyard.
9
10. Secure the port and starboard lower slays to the
chainplates on the crossbeam flanges, using stay
adjusters. Ensure the clevis pins are securely fastened.
The lower shrouds should have a very slight amount of
play in them when the upper shrouds are tight.
The Sailor's Environment
WARNING
Safety is every sailor's concern.You must understand the risks associated with
sailing.The user ofaWindRider Rave and other equipment sold byWindRider is
personally responsible for his or her own safety, and should obtain proper instruction
in seamanship, including boat handling, navigation, rescue, first aid, and CPR.The
user of anyWindRider product assumes all risk and responsibility for any damages,
loss and injury, including death, which result from the use ofWindRider products.
Whether you sail on small lakes or oceans, you're affected
by many factors. The ability to exercise good judgement is an
important part of proficient seamanship. TheWindRider Rave
can be particularly demanding of your skill and judgement, as it
is capable of sailing at extremely high speeds.
Weather
Weather is a major contributing factor in many small
craft accidents. It can change suddenly, with little warning. Pay
attention to marine weather forecasts. Plan your trip
accordingly, heed all small craft warnings, and don't underestimate the speed with which conditions can change. We
strongly recommend carrying a hand-held VHF radio.
Visibility
The WindRider Rave can travel at very high speeds and
accelerate quickly. On the foils, you could travel the length of
a football field every 5-6 seconds. You must have clear
visibility around you, and an unobstructed view of potential
hazards when sailing at speed. Before leaving the dock,
consult nautical charts of the area to ensure you won't
encounter unexpected hazards. Reduce sail as needed to
maintain a safe speed. At night, light yourWindRider Rave as
required by law, and never sail the boat on the foils. And
carry adequate navigational gear (particularly a compass,
chart, and GPS) and a foghorn when conditions require.
Other Craft
You share the water with a variety of other craft. Some
are incapable of making sudden changes in direction; some
Tides
When sailing in a coastal area, consult a tide table prior
to your trip. Plan your travel Co minimize the risk of tidal
currents carrying your craft into hazardous areas. Light
winds and strong tides can leave you at the mercy of the
current.
Surf
YourWindRider Rave is not designed to operate in surf
conditions. While you may choose to launch from or land
on a beach in small waves, keep in mind that deploying the
foils in these conditions could damage the boat.
Water Depth
YourWindRider Rave requires at least five feet of
unobstructed water depth for foil sailing. Foiling in less than
five feet of water can have serious consequences, including
damage to the boat and/or its pilot.
Hypothermia
Hypothermia is a drop in the body's core temperature
following exposure to cold air and/or water. Common sailing
conditions - prolonged exposure to cool water, spray, and
wind - can lead to hypothermia. Symptoms include violent
shivering, blue-gray skin color, irrational behavior, and muscle
spasms.
Hypothermia victims need immediate attention. Remove
wet clothing and warm the victim using chemical or other
heat sources placed on the head, neck, and torso. Never
lack the speed to easily avoid other traffic; and others are
leave a victim unattended; his or her inability to think clearly
piloted by individuals who are simply not paying attention. In
could lead to further injury.
addition, many watercraft pilots do not expect a sailboat to
move at speeds similar to those of many powerboats, and
may misjudge your movements.
Avoid hypothermia by dressing appropriately. Wear
clothing that keeps you dry and warm. When the air and
water temperature combined are less than 120 degrees F,
wear a wetsuit, drysuit, or foul weather gear. Your
For your safety,
WindRider dealer can recommend suitable clothing.
Know the right-of-way rules, and when it's most prudent
to yield right of way.
Electrical Shock
Exercise caution.
fatalities among sailors. Be aware of overhead powerlines. If
Plan ahead; speed and agility aren't always enough to
carry you out of harm's way.
your mast comes in contact with one of these lines you can
Electrical shock is a common cause of injuries and
receive a severe, and potentially fatal, shock,
tty
Safety Equipment
Proper safety equipment can make the difference
A Burning Flare is the universal sign of distress.
between a successful adventure and tragedy. Consider
Available in a variety of types, flares should be carried by any
carrying the following items with you every time you sail.
sailor who ventures away from shore. Examine your flares
More importantly, keep them in working order and learn to
periodically to insure they are likely to work when you need
use them.
them. This can be done by checking the expiration date
stamped on the flare casing.
Personal Flotation Device {PFD}
A personal flotation device must be comfortable, fit
A Fog Horn is essential for low-visibility conditions.
securely, and provide adequate flotation. Try on several PFDs
Disposable horns are light and compact, while rechargeable
before buying, and choose the one that has the best
units offer the advantage of lower long-term cost.
combination of these features. Make certain any PFD you
choose is U.S. Coast Guard approved.
To check the fit of a PFD, fasten it securely. Raise your
Dye Markers allow others to see you from a
distance, particularly from the air. A small canister disperses
arms and have someone grasp the shoulders of the PFD. Let
a bright dye that spreads out across the surface of the water.
them try to pull the PFD over your head. If it slips
Its effectiveness is diminished by choppy water.
excessively, consider a smaller size.
In addition to the PFD that you will wear, you must also
carry a Coast Guard Type IV (throwable) PFD.
A VHF Radio allows you to stay in contact with other
boaters, and to communicate with rescue authorities in the
event of an emergency. A VHF radio is not a substitute for
Navigation Lights are required on all recreational
good judgment. Do not venture out into questionable
craft operating between sunset and sunrise and when
conditions with the idea that help is only a radio call away.
visibility is otherwise reduced. Consult current USDOT/US
An AM or weather radio is an inexpensive way to stay aware
Coast Guard regulations, and rig your WindRider™ Rave
of changing weather conditions.
Trimaran in accordance with these laws. Do not sail at
hydrofoiling speeds at night or during times of restricted
Portable GPS units are becoming more affordable and
commonplace on sailboats. A GPS receiver and compass can
visibility.
help you determine your current location and plot courses.
Like a two-way radio, a GPS is not a substitute for common
Be/ore you soil,
•
Preflight your boat. Ensure it's in proper operating condition before you soil See Soiling the WindRider Rove
(page 18) for a preflight checklist
•
Dress for conditions. Low temperatures, wind, and spray can contribute to discomfort and hypothermia. Make
sure you (and your passenger) are properly outfitted.
•
Make a flight plan. Tell someone where you will be soiling and when you wil return. Consult local chare,
weather reports, and tide tables to determine if you are likely to encounter hazardous conditions. Look for
other traffic and plan a course that will provide maximum clearance for your boat Inspect the surface of the
water, looking for floating debris that might damage your boat
•
Always carry appropriate safety equipment At a minimum, this should inckjde n podofc, PfD (Sfe jacket),
horn, and flares or other signaling devices.
.^\
Performance & Design Limitations
You purchased aWindRider Rave because you want to
go fast - perhaps faster than any other sailing craft on the
water. Rave is capable of high speeds, but it's important to
Liftoff Performance
The actual liftoff speed of theWindRider Rave is
dependent on boat and crew weight, windspeed,
understand the performance and design limitations of this
environmental conditions, heading, and sailing technique. The
unique boat, so your time sailing Rave can be as safe and fun
following chart provides guidelines for approximate takeoff
as possible.
Because hydrofoils are not common, particularly as
speeds, based on crew weights from 60-400 pounds.
recreational craft, there is a lot of speculation and
misinformation about the boats and their operation. Often,
they're considered temperamental, impractical boats that are
Crew Weight
TakeoffV\/indspeed
(Ibs)
mph
knots
60-120
10-12
9-10
120-160
12-13
10-11
160-220
13-14
11-12
220-300
15-16
13-14
300-400
16-17
14-15
designed to do one thing well: go fast.
TheWindRider Rave is a departure from this school of
thought. It is a recreational hydrofoil trimaran. The use of
hydrofoils isn't simply to make the boat faster, but to allow it
to make more efficient use of the wind's power. For a boat
owner who wants to make the most of every outing, this
difference is important.
Dr. Sam Bradfield and HydroSail Inc. designed the
WindRider Rave to operate at boatspeeds 1.6X the
windspeed (e.g., 24 mph in 15 mph winds). Actual
performance is dependent on environmental conditions,
crew weight, and other factors, and may vary.
Because of the high loads on the foils, Dr. Bradfield
specified a maximum design speed of 30 mph. This allows a
margin of safety before equipment breakage occurs. In
testing, the WindRider Rave has reached speeds of more.
than 40 mph without problems. But, because foil loads
increase exponentially with wind speeds, you must be aware
that gusting winds can quickly reduce the safety margin. Your
point of sail also has an effect on structural loads; at a given
windspeed, loads are highest on a close reach (70-80° off
true wind). Be more conservative when sailing on
this heading.
Because Rave is a very high-performance sailing craft, we
realize that many owners will elect to sail at or beyond the
boat's limits. If you choose to sail at boat speeds exceeding
30 mph, you must be very aware of wind speed and wind
direction, and sail with care. And, as with any highperformance machine, you should be prepared to accept
responsibility for equipment breakage.
We highly recommend the use of an accurate speedometer
(or racing or fast recreational sailing.
These tokeoffwindspeeds can be reduced by roughly Zmph
wth the addition of a WndRider Rave Reacher kit.
Sailing The WindRider Rave
Sailing the WindRider Rave is, in some ways, much like
Pfon Ahead
sailing any other high-performance sailboat. The primary
Check the weather report for the area you plan to sail.
differences are the added controls required to operate the
Tell someone where you will be sailing and when you
foils, and the greater need to think ahead, due to Rave's
plan to return.
higher speeds. Otherwise, the principles you learned from
Consult the tide tables for that area.
sailing other boats still apply.
Consult local navigational charts. Look for potential
WindRider assumes that you are proficient at these
basic sailing skills. For this reason, this manual does not cover
those skills.
hazards, and determine water depth.
Final PreHarations
Dress appropriately for conditions.
The WindRider Rave's powerful sail rig,
combined with the unfamiliar dynamics of foil
sailing, require that you spend some time
becoming familiar with the boafs handling
Carry enough water and food for the time you'll be on
the water.
Things to inspect
characteristics.
Your first time out in a WindRider Rave
The Rave is a high-speed craft that must be inspected to
should be in light air, and conditions that allow
make sure they are tight before each sailing trip. Some
you to become thoroughly familiar with the boat.;:;-;:
parts will wear out as part of normal operation, much
ensure safe operation. All bolts should be inspected to
like windshield wipers on a car. Wear to these pans is
Before You Sail
Before each time you sail, it is important to properly
prepare you and yourWindRider Rave.
Preflight
Walk around the boat and check the following:
Frome & Hulls
Are all eight crosstube retainer bolts secure?
pan of their function and cannot be avoided. They will
need to be inspected and replaced as needed. These
parts include the main foil latches, rudder lock, and
rudder shear pins.
The main foil latches will wear as they slide up and down
the trailing edge of the foil. A good way to see if they
need replacement is to support your Rave over flat
ground with the foils on "half latch". If the foils at half
Are all bolts which hold space frame in place secure?
latch cannot support the boat's weight without slipping,
Are the outrigger inspection port covers secure?
then the plastic latches should be replaced soon. The
Are the outriggers empty of water?
half latch notches in the foils are shallower than the fully
down position, so the half latch position will start to slip
Sods & Rigging
before the fully down notches.
Are all rigging stays in good repair and securely fastened?
Are all control sheets in good repair?
Are sheets properly routed and fastened into the
mainsail and blade jib clews!
Are all sail battens secured and in good repair?
Are the mainsail and jib in good repair!
Foik & Controls
Are rudder control cables in good repair and securely
fastened?
Are foil control head bolts securely fastened?
Are foil control bungees secure and in good repair?
Are all foil welds solid, with no signs of cracks or unusual
The rudder lock will wear in a manner very similar to
stress;
the main foil latches. The lock is a plastic sleeve over the
Is there an unusual amount of lateral movement of the
114" bolt. The rudder lock can also be tested by
foil daggers?
supporting the Rave at the half-down notch in the
Are rudder pins worn excessively?
rudder and checking to see it does not slip.
Do the foil latches operate smoothly?
and high-speed sailing. The adjustable rudder is an easily
added option.
The rudder shear pins are high-strength plastic so they can
shesrin the event of a hard grounding or striking a large object.
7hk protects the Rave from more major damage, which would
Ocw with unbreakable pins. The pins will wear under normal use
and should be checked for wear. Under normal conditions, they
will easily last a sailing season, but must be inspected regular/.
Replacement is simple, and o wise sailor should always carry a
couple of spare rudder pins for repairs after a grounding or to
simply replace worn pins.
The vertical daggers perform two functions: I) they
support the boat's weight when foilborne, and 2) they limit
leeway and enhance directional stability.
The horizontal foils in combination with their control
flaps, either automatically (through control wands that
deflect the flaps downward) or at the direction of the pilot
(through control bungees that deflect the flaps upward)
perform two functions: I) they provide lift to carry the hulls
clear of the water, 2) they provide downforce when the flap
is deflected up to keep the horizontal foil in the water and
limit heeling.
During most phases of flight, the control wands adjust
the lift of the foils, with minimal input from the pilot. The
wand tips are free to skim the surface of the water. As the
boat moves hullborne the wand tip moves back, angling the
control flap down and maximizing positive liftFoil Sailing Basics
Though yourWindRider Rave performs well sailing on
its hulls, it is at its best when on the foils. Your goal should
At higher speeds, the windward foil begins to rise
toward the surface of the water; the windward wand tip,
driven by tension on the windward foil control bungee,
be to maximize the time spent on the foils. Before you begin
moves down and forward to angle the control tab up,
sailing the Rave, its helpful to know exactly how the foils and
causing less lift (or even negative lift). This pulls the foil
their controls function.
down and decreases the angle of heel. As boat speed
The main foils consist
of vertical daggers with
increases, it may be necessary to add mild tension to the
leeward foil control bungee, too.
horizontal foil sections.
Each horizontal foil has a
hinged flap on the trailing
edge. This control flap is
linked to a pivot,
mounted on the top of
the dagger foil, and
controlled by two
devices: I) the control
wand, and 2) the control
bungee.
The standard rudder foil is a vertical dagger with a
fixed-pitch horizontal foil. An optional adjustable racing
rudder is available. This rudder has a moveable trim tab
controlled by a cockpit-mounted joystick- This allows you to
fine-tune the boat bow up or bow down attitude while
sailing. The racing rudder can improve takeoff performance
If
WITH BOAT NEAR
ITS FLIGHT WATERLINE,
THE WAND SKIMS
ALONG WATER WITH
FLAP MOVING TO
FINE TUNE LIFT
AS NEEDED
Starting Out — Raising Sails
Raising and lowering the mainsail
Main halyard lock
The main halyard has a hook and ring arrangement to
Raising the jib-routing jib halyard
The jib halyard has a 2:1 purchase arrangement. The
single block with shackle attached fastens to the jib head.
hold the mainsail up when it is at full hoist- The ring that is
The halyard itself runs from the becket at the hounds,
welded to the mainsail head shackle will latch on the hook,
through the block at the jib head, up through the block at
which is mounted at the masthead. It should hook
the hounds, back down along the forestay through the cheek
automatically when the mainsail reaches full hoist, but it will
block on the port side of the bow and aft to the cam cleat
only hook with the boat head to wind. Before raising the
on the underside of the beam on the port side.
sail, make sure that the knot which ties the halyard to this
ring is very short. If the loop on the bowline has stretched
To raise your jib, shackle the jib halyard block to the jib
head grommet. Start the jib luff zipper, which will zip both
to be too long, the knot will hit the masthead before the ring
around the forestay and around the portion of the halyard
hooks. You will hear the ring hook; you can then pull down
which runs from the cheek block to the hounds. Slowly pull
on the luff, feed the bottom of the luff rope into the mast,
the halyard tail to raise the jib, while zipping the luff around
and downhaul your sail using the block and tackle provided.
the forestay and halyard as the sail rises. When the jib is
The main halyard can be stowed on the cleat located on the
mostly up, the jib tack can be fastened to the hole behind
main hull deck just aft of the mast, using the small black
where the forestay attaches using the shackle provided.
bungee provided.
Tighten your halyard a satisfactory amount, but never so
To drop your main, first unhook your mainsheet, uncoil
much that the forestay goes
your halyard and have it free to run, unhook your downhaul,
slack. If the forestay is slack,
and point the boat straight into the wind. Remove the lower
the jib luff will be overloaded
portion of the luff rope from the mast and make sure it is
and may be damaged. Now
free to feed into the upper mast. Pull firmly on the halyard
release the jib sheet from its
to raise the mainsail about I"; this will raise the ring above
cam cleat and fasten the jib
the hook. Now rotate the mast fully to one side, which will
sheet block to the clew of
move the hook on the mast to the side of the ring. While
the jib. The jib halyard can
holding the mast at full rotation, pull the luff rope down and
be stowed on the cleat
roll up the sail. If the sail has blown slightly off the centerline
located on the port side of
of the boat, the trailing edge of the mast should be rotated
the main hull deck just aft of
away from the sail (to windward) to make unhooking easier.
the crossbeam, using the
small black bungee provided.
A/
Starting Out
It's time to sail! With the Rave pointed into the wind,
hoist the sails. Check around you for potential hazards, then
shove off and move clear of the dock or mooring. You will
need two feet of water to lower your rudder half way, which
will give you sufficient steerage.
If you will be sailing without a passenger, we recommend
covering the front cockpit- This will prevent water from
entering the front cockpit and therefore keep your boat
drier. If sailing with a passenger, the front cockpit can be
sealed using a spray
skirt. Cockpit covers i
and spray skirts are
available from your
WindRider dealer.
Look around
2. Pull and hold left and right latchlines (red) to release
foils. If water depth is less than five feet, release
latchlines immediately to prevent them from dropping
beneath the first foil notch. Pulling the latchlines again
allows the foils to drop to full depth.
you and make sure
you are clear of
traffic or other
hazards. You should
have more than five
(5) feet of water
depth before fully
lowering the foils.
If the foils did not drop far enough for the latch to lock,
CAUTION
Before attempting to sail your
WindRider Rave on the foils,
familiarize yourself with the boat in
light air conditions.
while stopped or moving slowly, pull left and right
control bungees (black) to fully lower foils. Use only as
much tension as is necessary. Once the foils are lowered,
immediately ease tension on the control bungees.
CAUTION
Adjustments to foil control bungee
tension must be made smoothly.
Never release bungee tension
, ;
suddenly or completely while the
boat is foilbome. . ^'|i!?; :T!:';;-'T;^•rHTE;:. '
Take off on a reach, 80-120° off the wind. Do not start
Turn around and locate the rudder foil release lever.
close hauled.At wind speeds beyond I I mph*,you
Press down to unlatch the rudder foil. If water depth is
should anticipate foil-bome flight.
less than five feet, release the lever immediately to
prevent the rudder from dropping beneath the first foil
notch. If your boat is equipped with the adjustable racing
rudder, make sure the joystick is at the neutral setting.
•Actual liftoff speed is influenced by crew weight.
5.
Foil control bungee tension should be minimal. As you
feel the boat begin to lift, add bungee tension on the
windward side. Use as little tension as possible; too much
adds drag and slows the boat The boat will begin to
heel, and added tension on the windward control bungee
will counteract this.
6.
Trim the jib as needed. Proper trim allows the boat to
fly; too much tension can delay or prevent liftoff, if in
doubt, ease the jib sheet until the sail begins to luff.
Gradually sheet in until the luffing stops.
7.
Add mild tension to die lee bungee after takeoff.
8.
Trim the mainsail as needed. Again, do not overtrim the
main. Keep an eye on the sail telltales.
A Guide to Bungee Control
Tension
Boat speed increases (wand tip
leaves surface for more than two
seconds) ——> Add tension
gradually. Lill^^^:?^:ffi/•;;-':•••:.';.'
Steady speed (wand tip rides on
surface) —> No adjustment
necessary.
Boat speed decreases or boat fails
to rise on the foils —> Ease
|
tension gradually.
Continue to observe the wand tips. If a wand tip leaves
the water's surface for more than two seconds, add
additional bungee tension on that side. Be careful not to
apply too much tension to the control bungees. This causes
drag and slows the boat. For optimal performance, ease
control bungees when boat speed reduces.
If you are burying your lee outrigger and not taking off,
ease your sails and the lee bungee.
SPECIAL NOTE!
It is important that enough bungee tension be maintained at speed to keep both
hydrofoils fully submerged in the water. Lifting (horizontal) foils should never be
allowed to leave the water while foiling.
29
Heading Up to Stop
Like any other sailboat, the WindRider Rave must be
Steered directly into the wind to stop. WindRider
^ recommends that you ease sheets and depower the sails
Foil loads are highest at this point of sail. If you are
sailing in strong winds and head up to reef the mainsail, you
may inadvertantly overload the foils and cause them to fail.
before heading up, particularly if steering from a broad reach
to dead upwind. Easing the sails will slow you down.
If you need to go slow on a broad reach or run on a
windy day (approaching the beach for example) you could
opt to drop your mainsail while in open water and sail down
wind on the jib alone. This is a safe option in some
circumstances, but remember you will not be able to sail
upwind on jib alone. With a little practice you will find your
Failing to ease the sheets before heading up allows the
Rave as easy to handle as any other sailboat you can find.
boat to accelerate as it passes through a close reach.
When heading up at high speeds, alway
24
i and depower the sails "first.
Points of Sail
YourWindRider Rave is most capable of flight at 80°120° off the wind, and beyond these points you will need
higher windspeeds to sail foil-borne. For this reason, it's best
to begin flight on a reach, then, wind speeds allowing, either
head up to sail close hauled, or bear off to sail on a broad
reach or downwind. Straight downwind is slow and foils
provide less stability than a broad reach. For best downwind
performance jibe from broad reach to broad reach.
Stress Management
Foil-assisted sailboats operate under extremely high
loads. The foil daggers must resist compression (lifting
forces) and deflection (during tacks and gybes, and due to
side forces on the sails). Because theWindRider Rave does
not heel and relieve wind pressure on the sails, forces upon
the foils increase exponentially during wind gusts.
The foils on yourWindRider Rave are designed with a
large load safety factor. However, because forces increase
very rapidly you must be aware of boat speed, wind speed,
and wind direction at all times. This minimizes the possibility
of equipment failure.
Maximum Load Zone
TheWindRider Rave experiences maximum loads under
these conditions: flying on the foils at 70-80° off the wind,
with a windspeed 18 knots or more. Under these
conditions, it is very important to reef the mainsail, be aware
of wind gusts and react by easing sheets, and do not
initiate sudden changes in direction.
With a full mainsail and blade jib, yourWindRider Rave
operates best at windspeeds below 18 knots. If winds will
reach 20 knots you should reef your mainsail. If caught on
the water and unable to reef, ease your mainsail fully to
reduce the boat's power.
Be aware of boat speed, wind speed, and wind direction at all times.
Reefing the Mainsail
Reefing
1.
Cleat the halyard on the mast horn cleat so that reefing
tack grommet is about 15" from mast base.
2.
Hook downhaul to sail and tension strongly. Readjust
halyard from step one if needed.
Hook mainsheet tackle to reefing clew on leech of sail.
TIGHTLY roll the bottom of sail up and secure with
reefing ties through grommets in mainsail.
Lowering mast
To lower your mast, first put your Rave on its trailer in
an area that is entirely free of overhead power lines.
Power
lines can kill you if they strike your mast or rigging, so look
up and around.TWICE.
I.
Once you are in a safe area, fasten your jib halyard block
(which normally attaches to the jib head) to the forestay
bracket where you normally tack your jib. Tighten the
halyard enough that the forestay goes slack, and securely
cleat the halyard. The halyard is now holding the mast
up (double check your dealing job) so you can safely pull
the clevis pin at the base of the forestay. With the
forestay released, make sure your rear upright which
supports the outrigger and mast is inserted into the
trailer, and climb into the front cockpit where you will
stand to lower the mast.
Make sure that the retainer pin is inserted through the
mast base with its ring on the PORT side of the mast.
This pin is mandatory to keep the mast on the mast base
while lowering, and it must have the ring on the port
side so it can be removed once the mast Is down.
While standing in the front seat, uncleat the jib halyard
and carefully ease the halyard about 10" and re-cleat it
The rigging will now be a bit loose, which will make it
very easy to fully rotate trailing edge of the mast to port.
You MUST LOWER THE MAST FULLY ROTATED TO
PORT so that the downhaul rigging will not strike the
deck and damage the deck or mast base fittings.
4.
With your right hand on the mast to hold it up, reach
down with your left hand and uncleat the jib halyard.
Grab the jib halyard where it extends between the
crossbeam and the cheek block on the bow and bring
up to the mast where you can hold it with your left h
at the same time your left hand is on the mast- Now
with both hands on the mast, you can relax your grip
the halyard and begin to lean the mast back while you
control the halyard with your left hand.
5.
Lower the mast down to your shoulder and then tur
around and transfer it to the outrigger support on th
rear trailer post- If you are lowering the mast with th
boat off the trailer, you must find a helper to support
mast as the aft outrigger support would. DO NOT re
the mast on the crossbeam when it is still secured to
mast step; the excessive leverage may overstress the
mast base.
6. Once the mast is down and resting on the outrigger
support, lean forward, hold the mast down with one
hand and unplug the retaining pin from the mast base
with your other hand. If the pin is tight, a slight wiggl
the mast to rotate it slightly will free the pin for easy
removal. With this pin out, you can unplug the mast
casting from the mast step ball, and then slide the ma
forward and lift it up into the forward mast cradle. T
rear of the mast can now be transferred from the
outrigger support into the mast transport support, an
secured for transport.
Tricks to Speed Trailering and Setup
Once you are familiar with your boat, there are a few
tricks that can help you get it from the trailer to the water
in short order. Of course, you must form your own system,
but here are some suggestions that might help.
•
Do not disconnect the latch lines or bungee cords when
de-rigging; they can remain attached with the slack placed
in the cockpit. This will save steps the next time you set
up.
•
When removing the crossbeam bolts to trailer the Rave,
loosen and remove 3 bolts completely before loosening
the 4th bolt. This will make the 3 bolts come out easily
while only the 4th may require the beam to be wiggled
to get the bolt out-
•
If you have trampolines, only untie the outer corner. The
trampolines can be rolled up tightly and tied so they will
hang along the side of the boat during transport
•
Before lowering the mast, tie the lower shrouds and
forestay (the jib halyard must be used to hold up mast)
to the bottom of the mast. They can live here while the
boat is transported and stay right there until the mast is
up again. It is neater to tie them now than once the
mast is horizontal.
•
Once the mast is lowered, do not disconnect the upper
shrouds or jib halyard. The slack can be taken out of the
jib halyard once the mast is on its stands and the coil
placed in the boat. The shrouds can be placed in the
rear cockpit or coiled and bungeed to the aft outrigger
supports for transport. Leaving these items attached will
avoid any twists and tangles and they will be ready to put
the mast right back up.
•
If used for storage and transport, a rear cockpit
sprayskirt provides a hole to allow shrouds, latchlines
and bungees to be inserted into rear cockpit while still
covering 98% of the cockpit for protection from sun and
rain.
Using these tricks will make it easy to have the boat in
the water with the mast up in about 20 minutes, with only a
few more minutes needed to load your gear and put the
sails up.
Trampoline tied for transport
Accessories
Reacher
The Rave reacher kit adds 97 square feet of sail
horsepower to the Rave's rig. It allows faster sailing both
upwind and downwind in light air. Once the wind is up,
it will allow you to take off in less wind and give you
more speed flying downwind. The kit can be added to
any Rave and includes the sail, bowsprit, Harken
hardware and everything you need to get flying sooner
and taster.
Adjustable race rudder
This option provides a joystick at your cockpit linked to
a flap on the rudder, which allows you to trim your bow
up and down while sailing. This will allow you to trim
the boat perfectly for earlier takeoffs and higher speeds
while flying. It will also provide great protection against
the uncommon, but always feared, "pitchpole." See your
dealer to have one added to your Rave.
Flotation bags
Although we know the Rave is nearly unsinkable because
of its two sealed outriggers, flotation bags add extra
security for those who like to push the limits.. The Rave
kit includes two full-length outrigger bags, two bow float
bags and a stem bag. The bow bags are nicely tapered so
they can keep water from rushing to the bow if you
"stuff the bow" in windy conditions.
Windshield
The Rave windshield mounts securely with a bungee
around the front cockpit. It adds a sporty look to the
boat while giving your passenger some added protection
from wind and spray.
Bilge Pump
A bilge pump allows you to empty water from your
craft, improving safety and performance. The Rave bilge
pump is permanently mounted inside the pilot's cockpit.
A hose draws water out of the boat and expels it out a
hole in the side of the mainhull. A through-deck pump
combines simplicity, convenience and a high flow rate. It
is essential for sailors who like to venture offshore. It can
be added by your dealer if you did not order one with
your Rave.
Compass
A Compass is essential equipment when venturing away
from your home base. WindRider Rave's optional deckmounted compass allows you to set courses to distant
points, and monitor the course you're following.
Sprayskirts
WindRider borrowed the idea of a sprayskirt from the
world of kayaking. The WindRider Rave sprayskirt is
made of durable, coated nylon, and helps keep water out
of the cockpit.
Miniskirts
A unique WindRider accessory covers the front third of
the cockpit opening. The mini skirt limits water entering
the cockpit, and provides a useful net pocket to carry
your chart, sunscreen, or even loose lines. These benefits
are provided without limiting getting in and out of the
cockpit.
Cockpit Cover
A cockpit cover keeps water, debris, insects, and animals
out of your WindRider'. Made of nylon, a cockpit cover
should be used for transport and storage.
Trampoline
YourWindRider" Rave is equipped with factory-installed
mounting hardware for trampolines. Trampolines will
make it easier to get from your outriggers to the
cockpit-Trampolines are available from your dealer.
Paddle
A paddle is an essential accessory for every WindRider
Rave owner. A paddle allows you to keep going when
the wind dies and also helps in maneuvering in shallow
water with your rudder retracted.
Dry Bags
Dry Bags protect your cargo from spray or immersion.
They are essential to keep safety gear dry so it is ready
when you need it. Voyageur dry bags come in several
sizes to carry gear ranging from a full backpack to a small
cell phone or camera. Ask your dealer about Voyageur
accessories.
APPENDIX
ACCESSORY INSTRUCTIONS
Trampoline attachment
1. Using one of the short lines provided, tie the forward inside comer of the trampolines to the eyes on
the side of the crossbeam to main hull mounting flange. The comer of the trampoline should be 3"4" from this eye.
2. Now use the longer line provided to tie the aft inside corner of the trampolines to the eyestraps
found at the rear corner of the aft cockpit. At this point, the inside edge of the trampoline should be
moderately tight.
3. The outside corner is tied last. Here you can use a,trucker's hitch to gain a purchase and pull the
trampoline extremely tight. This outer comer is the only one that must be untied when the boat is
disassembled for trailering.
c
C
(
/•
W-Mr>/^y3>^yy
RAVE ADJUSTABLE PITCH
RUDDER INSTALLATION &
OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS
Congratulations on choosing to upgrade your Rave with the optional adjustable pitch rudder The rudder
will allow you to trim your boat for various crew weights, and increase your performance under many
sailing conditions. The control joystick must be used with care to avoid over-adjustment of your trim.
The joystick is spring loaded to normally stay in the neutral slot. To move the joystick, pull it gently away
from the side of the boat as you rotate it forward or aft, Pulling the joystick, aft will lift the bow of your
Rave, while pushing it forward will depress the bow. To avoid damaging the rudder system, please
observe the following warnings:
•
Never adjust your rudder when it is fully retracted. The cable is turned on a tight radius when
retracted and adjustments will stress the linkage.
•
When retracting your rudder ALWAYS pull the control cable out of the hull first, If you don't, you
may kink the cable at the rudder head. Take special care to never kink this cable.
•
Always make sure joystick is in the neutral position or pulled aft before beaching. Beaching with the
joystick forward (flap down) could damage to the system.
•
•
Make adjustments slowly, to avoid jumping out of the water; or stuffing your bow!
You will find nylon washers inserted where the pushrod joins the flap on the adjustable pitch rudder.
These are special for the rudder ONLY Never put similar spacers in your main hydrofoil
pushrod/flap junction or they will interfere with proper function of the foils.
In most circumstances, it is best to adjust your rudder for level flight. To speed take-off, you can gently
pull back for a little bow up and then level off. Repeat this cycle a few times and you can find yourself
taking off in a step-like fashion. Over-adjustment will only slow you down. To increase your speed when
moving fast, you can very cautiously lower your bow a few inches. This will allow you to use less bungee
tension when running fast. Be careful so that you do not cause a crash landing by lowering the bow too,
much. With a little practice, you will be very comfortable trimming your Rave for optimal performance.
?•?
WindRider RAVE Adjustable pitch rudder installation instructions for
dealers.
Remove stock rudder from rudder box. Untie or cut rope on handle and remove from rudder
blade. Unlatch rudder and slide out bottom of box.
Slide new rudder into box. First slide control cable through the box, followed by the rudder
blade. Be careful not to kink the cable at the top where it leaves the rudder top.
Install new rudder handle. Run rope through hole at the back edge of rudder top. Tie a stopper
knot closely on either side of the rudder (figure I) leaving an equal amount of line on either side of
the rudder Insert the tails of the line through hole in handle and out the sides. Tie an overhand
knot at the end of the lines and pull knots back inside the handle.
Drill hole for cable to
enter boat. Use a
15/16" spade bit and drill
a hole centered on the
deck, 6 I /2" forward of
the transom and 5" from
the starboard side of
the deck (figure 2).
Rudder Grommet
Figure 2
Insert control cable into hull. Push control cable through the hole drilled in Step 4 into the
boat. The black plastic cable housing mount fitting must be carefully worked through the hole; it
cannot be removed from the cable.The control cable runs through the deck and under the starboard
support strap on the backrest. Make sure the control cable does not get run between the steering
cable and the side of the boat
Fit rubber grommet into hole. The black rubber grommet (figure 2)found on the control cable
can now be fit around the edge of
the cable entrance hole.
Rivet joystick mounting
bracket to starboard side rail.
Carefully line this fitting up so that
the square hole will be pointed over
the side rail and directly at the centerofthe rounded area on the hull
where the joystick will mount(f(gure
3). Once you are sure of the
position, drill holes with a 3/16" bit
and rivet the fitting to the rail.
(Hint It is often best to drill and
rivet one hole before drilling
the second 3/16th hole to assure
the 2nd hole will line up perfectly)
Drill hole for actuator shaft
through hull. Run a 1/2" drill bit
from the inside of the boat, through
the square hole in the joystick
mounting bracket and through the
hull. This will leave a half inch hole
through the center of the rounded joystick area of the hull.
Figure 3
Mount neutral control plate.
This black plastic plate (figure 4) is
mounted so its hole lines up with the
hole drilled in Step 8. Mount the plate
so the groove is facing straight upward
where it will hold the joystick centered.
The two screw holes for mounting will
be oriented so a line between them
will be horizontal. Mount the plate
using the self tapping screws provided.
Figure 4
10. Install actuator shaft assembly
and Joystick. Slide the tensioning
spring over the actuator shaft (figure 5).
Push the shaft from inside the hull
through the mounting bracket and out
the hole drilled in step 8. Put the
joystick bolt through the actuator
shaft and tighten the nut at the bottom
(figure 6). Hold the bolt inside the
joystick ball by inserting a medium
sized slot head screwdriver tightly
between the bolt head and the inside
of the hole in ball, maintaining pressure
while tightening the nut on the bottom.
I I. Link control cable to actuator
shaft. Use the machine screw and nut
provided. Tighten nut fully and then
back it off half a turn to allow the
cable fitting to swivel freely on the
actuator shaft (figure 5).
^-v
RAVE REACHER KIT
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION
Reacher Usage Instructions
CAUTION: THE REACHER IS A POWERFUL SAILTHAT WILL ALLOW YOU
TO BREAKYOUR BOAT IF USED IMPROPERLY!!!
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
Congratulations on your purchase of a reacher to turbocharge your Rave. The loads the reacher places
on your boat relate both to windspeed and wind direction, Follow the guidelines below to know when
it is safe to use your reacher but always follow the motto "When in doubt, furl it up".
•
UPWIND The reacher can be used from 45 to 60 degrees off the true wind only when the wind
is less than 7 knots. In very light air the added power will help you get upwind faster If you start to
bury your outrigger; furl it up, because the added heeling is slowing you down.
•
CLOSE REACHING These headings from 60 to 90 degrees off the true wind are when the loads
are highest on your boat. It is on these headings that you are most likely to break something. You
can fly on these headings with the reacher but only if the wind is less than 12 knots. If you get hit by
a gust, ease your sheets and furl, or run downwind.
•
REACHING & BROAD REACHING These are the headings where the reacher was really
designed to be used, from 90 to 170 degrees off the true wind. The windier it is, the further off the
wind you should run if using your reacher In 12-15 knot winds you can reach 100 degrees or more
off the true wind. If the wind is over 15 knots you can only safely use your reacher at more than 140
degrees off the true wind and if the wind is I 8 knots or more don't use the reacher at all. WHEN
IN DOUBT, FURL IT UP!
•
WINCH HANDLE If you think you need one, you are using the reacher under too much loading.
If it luffs, sheet it then. You should not need a handle.
REMEMBER This is a. high-powered sail and must only be used by sailors who understand and respect
the loads it can place on the boat. These are the same guidelines that would be used for any highperformance multihull using a reacher Because you are flying a hydrofoil, you must use good judgment
rather than waiting to capsize as a sign that you are using too much sail. Be safe and this sail will provide
you many hours of fast flying,
^
Installing The Windrider Rave Reacher Kit.
I. Install hounds fitting to mast. This is centered on the leading edge of the mast (see figure I).
Locate the fitting so that the hole for the shackle is exactly 24" from the top of the mast. This fitting
•" can be taped to hold it in place, before drilling 3/16" holes for the stainless rivets to be fastened in.
These stainless rivets must be popped with a heavy-duty rivet gun, Make an effort to push the hound
fitting tightly against the front of the mast before drilling holes. A single block with a becket will be
shackled to this fitting.
24" from Shackle Pin to Masthead
Mount halyard swivel cleat to mast. This swivel cleat will be riveted into 3/16" holes that you
drill in the mast. This should be mounted on the port side of the mast, above and slightly ahead of
the downhaul cleat so it will not interfere with the downhaul (see figure 2).
Figure 2
Run halyard from becket, through single block that will be clipped to swivel on head of sail, back
through block on mast and then to swivel cleat which you just mounted to the port side of mast.
4.
Fasten eyestraps for ratchet blocks to top of crossbeam (see figure 3). The holes to bolt
the eyestrap to the beam should both be directly on the top of the beam. Locate the holes so that
the center of the eyestrap where the block mounts will be 24" from the centerline of the boat. We
have found 24" from the centerline to be a good location for the ratchet block. If you are a technical
Figure 3
5. Attach eyestraps for sidestays. These eyestraps mount horizontally on the inboard side of the
hull mounting flange ahead of the hydrofoil box (see figure 4). The holes should be 5/8" above deck
level, and the aft hole 1/2" from the weld that holds the flange to the hydrofoil box. Drill holes and
mount with the screws, nuts and washers provided. Kevlar sidestays will be fastened hens.
6.
Mount small cheek block for furling line. This block (see figure 5) is mounted with self-tapping
screws on the underside of the crossbeam just outboard of the jib sheet cheek block on the
starboard side.
figure 5
7. Install jam cleat and fairlead for furling line. The cleat will mount as shown in figure 6,
directly under the jibsheet cam cleat and fairlead.The fairlead mounts just ahead of the cleat. The
cleat is mounted with machine screws and be backed with washers and nuts inside hull.The fairlead
mounts with self-tapping screws.
Figure 6
Vt
41
8. Bolt bobrtoy fitting to bow. Use a small screwdriver or knife to carefully remove the black plugs
found at the waterline of the main hull bow. Slip the stainless bobstay fitting bolt through the hole
you just exposed (see figure 7). This is an asymmetrical fitting. If the holes don't seem to line up, flip it
over
; •}»»: ••
Figure 7
9. Insert bowsprit into sockets and drill pin hole. First, put a black plastic sleeve into the front
of each socket on the bow (see figure 8), then slip the bowsprit into sockets. If it is tight, a good
marine dry lube like McLube Sailcoat will make it easy. Shackle the bobstay wire from the underside
of the sprit onto the bobstay fitting on the bow. Tighten the bobstay by using a rubber mallet to
drive the sprit forward until the bobstay is tight enough to prebend the sprit down a bit. After
making sure the tang for the furling drum is straight up and the bobstay is still very tight, drill through
the holes in the aft socket with a 3/8" bit from each side. An aka lock pin will be inserted through
this hole as seen in figure 8.
4Z
10. Mount winch. The winch is mounted in the center of the control deck angled aft by the black
plastic wedge provided (see figure 9). Remove the screw found in the center of the winch handle
socket to allow the winch to be lifted from the mounting base (see instructions from Harken
included with the winch). The winch is mounted with only four screws.The two holes which are
_ closest to the front of the boat will be unused (these screws would not see sheet load anyway, so are
unnecessary). Align the plastic wedge so it follows the rounded front of the winch pad of the control
decfe-with the thinnest portion aft. The wedge MUST be placed right side up, which is when screws
inserted into the holes will be perpendicular to the top surface of the wedge, not perpendicular to
the control deck. Once the wedge is in place, drill the four holes furthest aft though the deck and
aluminum plate underneath. Bolt the winch base and wedge on with the screws provided, using
fender washers on the aft two screws. Remount the winch on its base and tighten the screw in the
center
Figure 9
I I . Fasten cam cleat for sheet. The location for the cleat can be seen in figure 9. It is mounted just
aft of the starboard side of the winch, placed on the same angled surface where the bungee cam
cleats are mounted. Placement is such that when the sheet leaves the starboard side of the winch
and is pulled aft to the cockpit it will lead directly into the cleat. Mount with the large wedge, screws
and backing plate provided.
12. Tie Kevlar sidestays to bowsprit using a bowline. You can tape the loop of the bowline if
you'd like, to avoid chafe. The outer end of the sidestay will be secured to the eyes installed in Step
5 using a trucker's hitch to get them very tight. Properly adjust them so they are very tight and the
pole is centered, and then mark the line to speed setup in the future. It is important that these stays
be kept tight when sailing and be inspected for wear and replaced as needed.
13. Spool the furling line (1/8" black line) into furling drum to assure that when the sail is furled it
spins the luff wire in the direction which will TIGHTEN the twist of the wire. The furling line
should run from the drum, through! the small cheek block on the starboard side of the sprit, through
the cheek block which you mounted in step 6 and then through! the fairlead and cleat mounted in
step 7.
GLOSSARY
Sailing and foiling have their own vocabularies. Us this
glossary to understand unfamiliar terms and concepts
Head Up
Change direction so the boat sails at a
more acute angle to the wind.^,
Head to Wind
i wthe
the^
Bring the bow/into the Wind, allow
sails to luff, and stop the boat's
described later in this manual.
Ama
\^A
An outer hull that provides a trimaran
with stability and flotation.Also called
an outrigger.
forward motion.
Heel
ApparentWind
Wind direction and/or speed aboard
The angle a boat tips from horizontal,
due to wind pressure on the sail.
the boat when the boat is moving.
Hounds
Batten
A fitting attached to the mast of a
A semi-rigid slat inserted into a sewn
sailboat to which stays and/or halyard
pocket in the leech of the sail to help
blocks may be attached.
the sail hold a desired shape.
Hull Borne
Beam
Beat
Width of the beat.
Sail on alternate port and starboard
hulls.
Hydrofoil
tack to go to windward.
Bow
Sailing with a boat supported by its
Front of the boat
An underwater wing designed to
generate lift. Properly used and with
sufficient wind power, hydrofoils lift a
boat's hulls clear of the water and
drastically reduce drag.
Cavhation
Vaporization (or "boiling") of water
due to extremely low pressure on the
low pressure side of the foils. Occurs
at extremely high speeds (beyond the
sailing limits of the Rave).
Hydnofbiling
Sailing with the boat fully supported
by hydrofoils.
Knot
A rate of speed equal to one nautical
mile per hour. One knot =1.15 mph.
Close Hauled
Sailing very near the direction of the
wind.
Cross Tube
Frame member that supports a
trimaran's outriggers.
Ease Sheets
Release the main and/or jib sheet to
change sail angle.
Leech
The trailing edge of the mainsail that is
connected to neither the mast nor
boom.
Leeway
The distance or angle a boat on a
heading is blown sideways through the
Change direction so the boat sails at a
deeper angle relative to the wind.
Leeward
The side of the boat that is away from
Foil
See hydrofoil.
Luff
Gybe
Change direction while sailing
downwind so that the true wind
passes from one aft quarter over the
Fall Off
the wind.
1) Allow the sail to flap freely into the
wind, generating no power.
2) The leading edge of the sail.
Monohull
A boat with one hull.
Multihull
A boat with multiple hulls.
transom of the boat to the other aft
quarter. This causes the mainsail to
swing across the boat
^
Outrigger
An outer hull that provides a trimaran
Starboard Tack
with stability and flotation.Also called
an ama.
Screacher
Pijat*\
You, the sailor in command of the
Rave.
^^ s.
Pitchpole
Point of Sail
Bury the bow, causing the boat to go
end over end.
Sailing with the wind striking the sail
from the right side.
Stall
A large roller furling jib found on
multihulls. Specifically designed for
screaming reaches.
Condition when a hydrofoil exceeds
its maximum angle of attack. The foil
can no longer provide lift, and the
Direction of travel relative to wind
boat returns to its hulls.
direction.
Port
Port Tack
Looking forward, the left side of the
boat
Stem
The back of the boat.
Tack
I) Change direction while sailing to
windward which causes the wind to
Sailing with the wind striking the sail
from the left side.
pass from one side of the bow across
to the other side of the bow.
2) The point at which the bottom,
Reach
Sail perpendicular, or 90° to the wind
leading edge of the mainsail is secured
to the mast, or the jib to the bow.
(also known as a beam reach). If you
are sailing at less than 90°, you are on
a close reach. Sailing at more than 90°
Trimaran
A boat with three hulls.
is a broad reach.
Reef
Reduce sail area.
True Wind
Wind direction and/or speed when
the boat is at rest-Also known as
ambient wind.
Rudder
A movable surface, located at the
boat's stem, used to control the boat's
Ventilation
direction.
Air being sucked down to the foil
from the water's surface.This occurs
when foils rise too high, due to
Rudder Pedals
Foot pedals, located in the rear
insufficient bungee tension.
cockpit, used to control the rudder
angle and boat direction.
Starboard
Vmax
Looking forward, the right side of the
boat.
Maximum design speed. Exceeding this
speed may result in damage to your
boat
Windward
The direction from which the wind
blows.