clicking right here. - Yang

LO O K B E T T E R • F E E L B E T T E R • K N OW M O R E
WHAT
TO WEAR
NOW!
COM PLETE
STYLE MANUAL
INSIDE
SPRING/
SUMMER
2014
STYLE • SUITS
ACCESSORIES
TIMEPIECES
TRENDS • TRAVEL
AUTOMOBILES
ADVICE
SHARP: THE BOOK FOR MEN
SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Style Manual
Introduction
•
Technical
Outerwear
•
Cuffed
Trousers
•
Button
Stance
•
Pocket
Squares
•
Suiting
•
Oxford
Cloth
Buttondowns
•
Napoli
194
The Mid-Layer
On-figure:
•
Baseball
•
•
Caps
Bomber
Sneakers
Jackets
Photography:
Matt Doyle
STREETWEAR
NOW
•
•
Raw Designer
Tees
Denim
•
Minimalism
•
Sprezzatura
BESPOKE
•
Monograms
•
Savile
Row
•
Hand-rolled
Ties
•
Northampton
•
Shoemakers
Cutaway
Collars
•
Sportcoats
•
Doublebreasted
•
Repp
Ties
PREP
TAILORED WEAR
•
Soft-Shouldered
Jackets
192
Shirts
and Ties
•
Shorts
•
Shawl-Collar
Sweaters
•
Tennis
Shoes
•
Braided
Belts
•
Heritage
Brands
SPORTSWEAR
•
Rugby
Shirts
•
Polo
Shirts
190
The Modern
Suit
•
Nautical
•
Work
Boots
•
Sweats
Contents
Styling:
•
Monochrome
•
Abstract
HIGH FASHION
•
Pharrell
Hats
•
Runway
196
Sportcoats
and Trousers
Christopher Campbell
for Atelier Management
Javier Romero
Maribel Carerro
Melanie Harris
•
Air Ties
Stylist’s
Assistants:
•
Leather
Off-figure:
•
Layering
197
Summer
Scarves
Grooming:
198
Dress
Shoes
Marc George
YaYa Lora
200
Man
Bags
Photography:
Adrian Armstrong
201
Patterns
Styling:
Gentlemen, this is our moment.
Mark John Tripp
Stylist’s
Assistant:
202
Canadian
Fashion
Richard Jastrzebski
Remember the Dream Team? When an aging Bird and Magic
teamed up with an in-their-prime Jordan and Barkley to trounce
all over the rest of the world at the Barcelona Olympics? It felt as
though the planets had aligned, a once-in-a-lifetime chance to witness
something truly, inconceivably great. And that’s exactly what’s
happening in menswear right now.
You see, all of the trends that have cropped up over the last few years—
Ivy League prep, Italian sprezzatura, outdoorsy Americana, tough-asnails workwear, stark minimalism, avant-garde Japanese streetwear—
have converged and coalesced to make this one of the most exciting
periods in men’s fashion ever. Everything is in play. Everything is cool.
It’s like the Avengers, except with clothes. The possibilities are limitless.
Of course, having so many options at your fingertips isn’t just liberating—it can also feel a little overwhelming. But, as always, that’s why
we’re here. Consider this your roadmap to navigate the crowded thoroughfares of style and make the most of this golden moment. Are you
ready? It’s time for tip-off.
Yang-Yi Goh, Fashion Editor
188
Style Manual
Fashion Editor’s
Photo:
204
Weird
Colours
Matt Barnes
205
The
Monochromatic
Look
206
The
Hawaiian
Shirt
207
Dip-Dye
208
Casual
Friday
210
The
Suede
Bomber
211
Sunglasses
212
Baseball
Style
213
Workwear
214
Rainwear
216
Shorts
217
ColourBlocking
218
The
Pocket Tee
219
The Polo
220
Sneakers
222
Denim
224
Beachwear
226
The Trench
Coat
227
Nautical
Stripes
228
Watches
230
Belts
231
Finishing
Touches
Opposite Page:
Double-breasted
suit ($2,150), cotton shirt ($270)
and tie ($180)
by Canali; pocket
square ($115) by
Ralph Lauren Black
Label; shoes by
Brioni ($1,100).
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189
190
in 2014.
It’s neither boxy and oversized like the
suits of the ’90s, nor shrunken and skinny
like those of the ’00s. It just fits, and fits well.
Let’s take a closer look at how and why.
Style Manual
BFM.S/S.14
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Like side-tabs, cuffed pants are another oldschool move that’s made a serious comeback
in recent years. A one-inch cuff is standard;
two inches are for the rakish and bold.
No need to remember your belt in the morning—it’s built right into the waistline. Adjustable side-tabs are a throwback trouser feature
that designers have been favouring of late.
Your sleeves should be just long enough
that a half-inch to an inch of shirt cuff is
exposed when your arms are by your sides.
No exceptions.
should look
Your jacket should be
just long enough to
cover your rear.
Peak lapels are indicative
of a man with supreme
confidence and a healthy
swagger. That sounds
like you, right?
your suit
Three-button suits are
angling for a comeback, but for now, the
two-button remains the
silhouette du jour.
Higher armholes
and a defined
waistline deliver
a slim, flattering
silhouette that
doesn’t feel tight or
constricting.
A navy blue pinstripe suit
is about as timeless and
traditional as business wear
gets. But this one practically oozes modernity, thanks
to a slightly lighter, more
electric shade of blue, and
thinner, subtler stripes.
This is how
Wool two-button suit ($1,895) and cotton shirt ($350) by Ralph
Lauren Black Label; silk tie ($215) by Ralph Lauren Purple Label;
leather shoes ($475) by Ralph Lauren.
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191
01
03
a
c
02
04
d
b
Welcome to
stress-free business dressing.
Shirts:
Ties:
01)Cotton shirt
($225) by Paul
Smith, available
at Holt Renfrew
a)Silk tie ($150)
by Sand
02)Cotton blend
shirt ($1,120) by
Prada
03)Cotton shirt
($100) by Bruun &
Stengade
04)Cotton shirt
($165) by John
Varvatos, at
Harry Rosen
b)Linen tie ($95)
by Ted Baker
c)Silk tie ($140)
by Tiger of
Sweden
d)Cotton tie
($50) by Bruun &
Stengade.
05
e)Virgin wool
tie ($95) by
J.Lindeberg
05)Cotton shirt
($250) by BOSS
All five of these dress shirts pair up perfectly with all five of these ties.
That’s 25 different combinations. Just imagine the possibilities.
192
Style Manual
e
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193
Consider
the
The Style Rule
I Live By
“The rule I live
by—and the key
to my style—
is simple:
effortlessness.”
Levi’s
mid-layer.
$100
The easiest way to
freshen up a standby
suit? Get creative with
cardigans, sweatshirts
and vests.
– Hiroshi Awai,
designer, CREEP
ASK THE FASHION
Band Of
Outsiders
EDITOR:
Q:What’s the
protocol for
dimpled tie
knots?
A: A well-defined tie dimple
is elegant and pleasing to the
eye, but it’s really only possible with a necktie of a more
traditional width—3” or above
at its widest point. Anything
slimmer, just knot it up tight
and don’t worry about it.
Of course, no blurb on tie
dimples would be complete
without an obligatory mention
of the double-dimpled Italian
variation known colloquially
as la sorchetta—meant to
invoke the intimate folds of the
female anatomy (oh Italians).
Attempt with caution.
194
$300
1)Cotton suit
($3,370) by
Brunello Cucinelli;
gingham print cotton shirt ($70) by
Denim & Supply
AMI
$230
2)Cotton suit
($3,370) and
belt ($1,470) by
Brunello Cucinelli;
oxford shirt ($195)
by Todd Snyder
3)Cotton suit
($3,370) and
belt ($1,470) by
Brunello Cucinelli;
cotton shirt ($125)
and tie ($60) by
Michael Kors;
pocket square ($95)
by Ralph Lauren
01
Style Manual
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02
03
Style Manual
195
01)Modalcashmere blend
scarf ($150) by
J.Lindeberg
02
02)Rayon-linen
blend scarf
($315) by Dolce
& Gabbana, at
Holt Renfrew
Sand
$650
01
03)Viscose
scarf ($80) by
Diesel
04)Cashmeresilk blend
scarf ($1,095)
by Loro Piana,
at Harry Rosen
05)Modal scarf
($195) by Paul
Smith, at Holt
Renfrew
06)Wool-silk
blend scarf
($640) by
Balenciaga, at
Holt Renfrew
03
Canali
$580
01
02
Loud Sportcoat + Solid Trousers
or Solid Sportcoat + Loud Trousers.
It’s a pretty straightforward equation, but live by it this summer and
you’ll always be the freshest dressed gent
in the room.
196
01)Cotton-silk knit polo ($140)
by Tommy Hilfiger; linen-blend
trousers ($595) by Z Zegna;
silk pocket square ($205) by
Ermenegildo Zegna.
Style Manual
02)Linen-cotton sportcoat ($350)
and cotton shirt ($100) by
Tommy Hilfiger.
BFM.S/S.14
You can
pull off
a summer
scarf.
06
04
05
Worn loosely beneath a
linen sportcoat, a breezy,
lightweight muffler will lend
your look a carefree Mediterranean air.
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197
EDITOR:
Q: I hate laces.
Is it ok to wear
slip-on shoes at
work?
A: If you have the kind of
job that requires you to wear a
full business suit every day of
the week, then I’m afraid the
answer is “no.” Despite popular
belief, loafers of any kind—tasseled, penny or Belgian—aren’t
quite dressy enough for a
traditional office setting.
Allow me to suggest, however, a perfectly reasonable
compromise: buckles. A pair
of cap-toe monk-straps will
possess the formality your
occupation requires, with
none of the awkward fumbling
about with laces that you
despise so heartily.
Footwear: A Usability Chart
Formal
ASK THE FASHION
The age of dress
shoe maximalism
is over.
The Monk-strap:
Slightly less dressy
than its laced-up counterparts, but also more
visually arresting.
The Cap-toe:
BOSS, $545
The essential dress
shoe. Looks great with
suits and slacks; a hard
sell with jeans.
Sure, that flashy
pair of double
monk-straps with
intricate full-length
brogue detailing still
has a place in your
wardrobe. But for our
money, a pair of simple,
plain-toed oxfords like
these will be the best
footwear purchase you
make in 2014.
Salvatore Ferragamo,
$540 at Harry Rosen
The Wing-tip:
Multi-talented,
adaptable and reliable.
Perfect for everyday wear.
Walk-Over, $410
Versatile
Specialized
The Saddle Shoe:
A prep classic, best
paired with patch madras
pants and a gold-buttoned navy blazer.
Bass, $120 at
Getoutside
Alden
$495 at
Lost &
Found
The Loafer:
The Driving
Moccasin:
I Live By
Beautiful, comfortable
and absolutely impractical for wear anywhere
outside the driver’s seat.
“No shorts for
everyday wear.
Only at the beach
or on vacation.”
Tod’s, $470
Informal
The Style Rule
An excellent mid-range option for occasions that call
for something a step above
casual, but a step below
business-formal.
Prada, $795 at Harry Rosen
– Brett Viberg,
Creative Director,
Viberg Boots
198
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199
Man bags:
More
Patterned
Goodness
Move over,
Stripes and
A CONCISE VISUAL GLOSSARY
Plaids.
The Weekender:
Time to let go of the nylon gym
bag and travel carrying something
with a touch more class.
Camouflage, florals
and polka dots aren’t
just trends anymore—
they’ve graduated to
full-fledged staples. Just be
sure to limit yourself to one
piece per outfit to avoid a
pattern overload.
Salvatore Ferragamo, $1,500
Carhartt WIP,
$100
The Portfolio:
No handle? No problem. Perfect
for toting documents and a tablet
around in style.
Paul Smith,
$35
Brunello Cucinelli, $1,300
The Grunion Run
The Briefcase:
Still the reigning champion
of business-appropriate
baggage. This attractive,
sturdy version will age into a
beloved family heirloom.
Prada, $3,000
The Tote:
The Backpack:
Dressed up in smooth leather, a
tote like this can go everywhere
from the cottage to the grocery
store to the office in a snap.
Refined enough for a grown
man to wear without looking
like a schoolkid.
Drake’s
$100
AMI
$280
THE RIGHT WATCH
Panerai Luminor
Base 8 Days
Acciaio
$7,500
Gucci, $3,350
BOSS, $950
200
Double-breasted jacket ($665) and denim shirt ($245)
by AMI; silk pocket square ($195) by Ermenegildo
Zegna; suede derbies ($395) by A.P.C.
$25
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201
Buy Canadian.
Arc’teryx Veilance
Hometown:Vancouver,
BC
Established: 2009
It’s never been easier to wear your patriotism on your sleeve. Here are 10 on-the-rise
homegrown labels you should know.
Sleek, ultramodern high-performance
outerwear is the name of the game at
this high-end, design-minded branch of
vaunted ski outfitters Arc’teryx.
veilance.arcteryx.com
NEEDS&WANTS
Hometown: Toronto, ON
Established: 2013
Viberg Boots
Hometown:
In less than a year, Toronto artist Sean Brown’s
young label has built a steady international buzz
by shrewdly reimagining iconic silhouettes: varsity
jackets stretched to topcoat length; flannel shirts
with elongated fishtail backs.
needsandwantsstudios.com
United Stock
Dry Goods
Dolbeau
Montreal, QC
Hometown: Toronto, ON
Established: 2009
A hearty blend of rugged, woodsy
Canadiana and classic British tailoring. Think artfully wrinkled linen
suits, hickory-striped work shirts and
selvedge chambray shorts.
Established: 2008
Neckties and pocket
squares handcrafted
in Montreal’s oldest
tie factory from
beautiful Japanese
fabrics. Or as we like
to call it: straight-up
perfection.
dolbeau.ca
viberg.com
2012
United specializes
in basics done to
perfection, like trim,
hardy jeans made
from raw Japanese
denim, or fitted
oxford shirts that’ll
take a beating and
last a lifetime.
Montreal, QC
2009
18 Waits
Established:
Hometown:
Established:
It’s the oldest brand on this list by almost 80 years, but stalwart bootmaker
Viberg still counts as “up-and-coming” in our book, thanks to its recent
push into the fashion market with a
stylish new line of snuff suede chukkas
and painted horsehide service boots.
Hometown:Toronto, ON
Raised by
Wolves
Hometown:
Victoria, BC
Established: 1931
Contemporary
streetwear at its finest: quirky patterned
button-downs, slim
tees with printed
pockets and a modish range of caps.
unitedstockdry
goods.com
raisedbywolves.ca
18waits.com
Klaxon Howl
Hometown:Toronto,
WANT Les Essentiels
De La Vie
Hometown: Montreal,
Hometown:
Drawing on his vast
collection of vintage
military gear, designer Matt Robinson
faithfully recreates
mid-century work
shirts and WWII
army chinos in fresh
seasonal fabrics.
QC
Recently crowned Accessory Designers of the
Year at the inaugural Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards, twin brothers Dexter and Byron
Peart design streamlined, functional totes,
briefcases, backpacks and weekenders.
wantessentiels.com
Style Manual
Reigning Champ
Established: 2005
Vancouver, BC
Established:2007
Established: 2005
202
ON
The sportier, more casual line from
Vancouver’s CYC Design Corp, who
also own the much-heralded menswear
label wings + horns. A well-designed
collection of hefty fleece sweats and
heavyweight tees that are several giant
steps up from the stuff you currently
lounge in.
reigningchamp.com
klaxonhowl.com
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203
How It’s Done:
Sometimes,
one colour
is all you
The Style Rule
I Live By
Strellson
$200
“The most important piece of advice
I give guys is about
dressing to your
body type. Not
everyone can pull
off every detail of
the latest fashion
trend. If you learn
what looks good on
you (fits, colours,
silhouettes, etc.)
and what doesn’t,
you can always
figure out ways to
look stylish.”
need.
Pattinson, R.
Done right, going
head-to-toe monochromatic can make a
stronger, punchier statement than any amount of
foppish pattern mixing.
That doesn’t necessarily
mean wearing everything in
the exact same tone;
multiple shades of the same
colour will do just fine. Just
don’t try it with black,
unless you enjoy being
mistaken for a bouncer.
The Coolest Men’s Stores
in the World
Valentino
(suit)
$2,000
United Arrows
3-28-1 Jingumae, Tokyo,
Japan
Try weirder colours.
There’s nothing wrong with basic blues, reds and greens. But tilt
your palette just the slightest bit off-kilter—into the realm of teals,
salmons and chartreuses—and suddenly you’ve upgraded your standard
four-cylinder wardrobe to a supercharged V8.
204
THE RIGHT WATCH
Virgin wool blazer
($600) and linen knit
sweater ($160); sneakers ($260) by A.P.C.
Style Manual
Thomas Sabo
$820
BFM.S/S.14
The Harajuku location of this nationwide Japanese
chain is a veritable menswear paradise, brimming
with the kind of versatile, supremely stylish stuff
that dreams—and proper wardrobes—are made of.
united-arrows.co.jp
BFM.S/S.14
Shirt ($475) by Valentino; patent leather
loafers ($229) by Tommy Hilfiger.
– Sam Shipley,
designer, Shipley &
Halmos
Style Manual
205
Say aloha
to the
new
White: The shade you need this season
Prada
$1,375
This season, I’m
most excited to
Hawaiian
wear…
ASK THE FASHION
shirt.
EDITOR:
Q: How do you
The concoctors
of cool at Prada
took the tacky
Parrothead favourite
and gave it a chic
modern makeover.
Wear it to dinner or
out to the bar—not at
the beach.
fold a pocket
square? When do
you just make an
actual square
and when do you
use the more
flowery kind?
Linen pants ($1,050, part of suit) by BOSS; woven
loafers ($1,100) by Bottega Veneta.
A: First things first: If your
hanky is white, it should be
folded into a tight, neat square
that just peeks out of the
pocket. No exceptions. It’s
clean and classic and looks
good in almost any situation.
If you’ve got a patterned or
piped square, there are more
available options to choose
from. As a general rule, stay
away from any geometric,
origami-like folds—the kind that
result in between three to five
perfectly even peaks. You’ll
wind up looking like you’ve
tried too hard.
Instead, keep things simple
and do what feels right. On
days you’re feeling more conservative, you can revert back
to the basic square. A small
pouf is a good way to show
off the pattern without being
too showy. But for my money,
the most expressive way to
wear a handkerchief is to grab
it from the middle and shove
it into the pocket, allowing the
points to splay about haphazardly. As messy as it sounds,
you’ll appear natural, confident
and full of grace.
206
Style Manual
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Band of
Outsiders
$895
“We’re working on
a denim jacket
prototype out of
our trademark
shadow selvedge—
it’s got an indigo
warp and black
weft. The fabric
starts out as a deep
navy and fades to
a high-contrast
bright blue over
time, so it should
be looking pretty
good by fall.”
– Andrew Chen,
co-founder, 3sixteen
Trip out on dip-dye.
THE RIGHT WATCH
Bremont Solo W/H
$4,100
BFM.S/S.14
It’s a more sophisticated relative of tie-dye (minus the
associations to Jerry Garcia et al), and it’s everywhere right
now. Gradient-laden oxfords, sweatshirts and polos are all great
options, but it’s this indigo-dipped trucker jacket that really has
our attention.
Style Manual
Cotton shirt ($225) and
chino pants ($265) by
Band of Outsiders.
207
The Coolest Men’s
Stores in the World
Three more ways
to dress down at
the office
Treat
Casual
Friday
with the
respect
The reigning MVP
of Casual Fridays? Shawl collar
cardigans. Wear
one like you would
a sportcoat—with a
dress shirt and tie,
or over a buttondown and vest. This
one, loose-knit from
linen and wool, is the
ideal weight for the
warmer months.
it
It’s tough to compete with the natural
beauty of Honolulu, but Leather Soul’s
show-stopping assortment of handcrafted
shoes from traditional makers like Alden,
Saint Crispin’s, John Lobb and Tricker’s
makes for a worthy contender.
leathersoulhawaii.com
This season, I’m most
excited to wear…
“I’m looking forward
to getting a pair of our
new all-white high-top
sneakers. We changed
them up this year with a
tumbled leather upper that
looks really good.”
– Davidson Manaloto, designer,
wings + horns
208
deserves.
That doesn’t you mean
you can’t still look and
feel comfortable to end the
workweek. It just means
doing away with the
slovenly hoodies and
shapeless cargos—basically
anything you would’ve worn
while skateboarding in
junior high—in favour of
trim chinos and
soft-shouldered jackets.
Todd Snyder,
$395
With a rakish spread collar
and tailored fit, this is the
chambray shirt in its most
polished form.
Wool sport jacket ($3,185), linen vest ($830),
cotton shirt ($580), cotton chinos ($665) and
linen pocket square ($155) by Brunello Cucinelli;
sneakers ($110) by Nike.
Leather Soul
2233 Kalakaua Avenue
#301, Honolulu, HI
United States
Eton, $245
Red chinos? Been there,
done that. Bright orange
trousers with a slight satin
sheen? Not so much.
Acne Studios, $230
THE RIGHT WATCH
Meistersinger
Singular
$4,475
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The Coolest Men’s
Oliver Peoples,
$440
at Holt Renfrew
Stores in the World
Mykita, $595 at
Josephson Opticians
The Style Rule
I Live By
Oliver Spencer,
Strellson
$800
Your favourite winter
jacket, spring-ified.
The bomber jacket was a must-have piece of outerwear this past
winter, and designers are keeping the party rolling by ripping out
the lining and dressing it up in supple, lightweight, irrefutably
handsome suede.
210
Cotton shirt ($185)
by BOSS Orange; cotton chinos ($75) by
Dockers; leather
belt ($70) by Tommy
Hilfiger.
Style Manual
“I refuse to wear
graphic t-shirts of
any kind. There is
simply no value in
them at all. Some
silly design printed
on your chest doesn’t
make the cotton
softer, doesn’t make
the construction better, doesn’t make the
shirt last longer—so
why pay extra for
it? I prefer a plain,
thick, soft cotton
shirt that’s made
in Canada any day.
Come to think of it, if
you are a young professional, don’t wear
a t-shirt at all. Get
yourself a buttondown shirt if you
want to be respected
and taken seriously.”
– Brandon Svarc,
founder, Naked & Famous
BFM.S/S.14
$345
Prada,
$390
Blue Button Shop
1499 Dundas Street W,
Toronto, ON,
Canada
Dita,
$500 at
Josephson Opticians
Matsuda, $405 at
Josephson Opticians
EVATIK,
Lovers of Japanese denim, rejoice! Blue Button Shop stocks all the obscure, impossibleto-find brands from the Land of the Rising Sun
you’ve drooled over online, right in the heart of
downtown Toronto. bluebuttonshop.com
$235
How It’s Done:
Tom Ford,
$320 at
Holt Renfrew.
Sunglasses are
getting stranger.
And that’s a good thing. As much as we love a good pair of black Wayfarers or
McQueen-esque Persols, things were starting to get a little staid out there. It was
high time for a little outlandishness—a return to the flashy ’70s shades favoured by guys
like John Lennon—and that’s precisely what designers delivered this summer.
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Style Manual
Richards, K.
211
Four More
BaseballInspired
Pieces
Workwear
has
This season, I’m
most excited to wear…
3.1 Phillip
Lim
evolved.
Valentino
$1,295
The Cap
Ebbets Field Flannels
$40
“I’m really feeling the
mix of athletic and luxury
pieces right now, and the
neoprene hoodie from
our spring ’14 collection
defines that for me.”
– Ariel Ovadia,
designer, Ovadia & Sons
A few years back, the
biggest trend in
menswear was rocking
age-old, blue-collar staples
like chambray work shirts
and engineer-striped chore
coats. Those fingerprints are
still all over the current crop
of designer collections, but
it’s subtler now, less
literal—which means you can
enjoy all that utilitarian,
hardwearing goodness
without having to look like an
actual turn-of-the-century
factory worker.
$2,450
The Coolest Men’s
Stores in the World
The Raglan Tee
S&H Athletics
The Jersey
UPXUNDR
$75
When did baseball become
Dover Street Market
17-18 Dover St., London,
United Kingdom
so stylish?
Over the last couple of seasons, America’s pastime has stolen
its way directly into the world of fashion. Minimalist,
designer-tweaked updates on dugout jackets, jerseys and caps
should all be in your casualwear starting rotation this season.
212
Style Manual
Wool pants ($350) by
3.1 Phillip Lim; cotton
t-shirt ($80) by T by
Alexander Wang.
The Pants
Muttonhead
Founded by legendary Comme Des Garcons
designer Rei Kawakubo, Dover Street Market
now has outposts in Tokyo and New York,
but its original, six-floor London location remains the be-all and end-all of edgy, forwardthinking fashion. doverstreetmarket.com
Cotton pants ($495) and cotton t-shirt
($575) by Valentino.
$75
$80
BFM.S/S.14
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Style Manual
213
Four
ways to
stay dry
in style
Tom Ford
The Style Rule I Live By
$2,990
“As a barber of almost a decade,
my most important style rule
is to always keep it tidy. If
you’re going to grow a beard,
keep it well groomed, if you’re
going to have a textured hair
cut, keep it organized by using
product. Going for the traditional gentleman’s haircut?
Always keep it sharp; your
partner will be impressed.”
Keep your laptop safe and secure from
the showers in this eye-catching, entirely
waterproof tote.
SWIMS, $270
– Alex Berry, head barber,
Garrison’s By The Park Barbershop
Most rain boots suck. These don’t,
thanks to a svelte, low-cut desert
boot silhouette.
The Coolest Men’s Stores
Hunter, $150
in the World
Don’t get your head wet. In lieu of
a hood, this water-resistant waxed
cotton cap will do the trick.
Archival Clothing, $50
Invest in a slicker
slicker.
An umbrella worthy of a modern gent:
sobre and serious on the outside,
a touch of whimsy hidden within.
London Undercover, $250
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Style Manual
Drizzly days won’t feel as
grey when you can look
forward to wearing a jacket
this fetching.
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Linen-satin blend pants ($1,210) and
alligator belt ($880) by Tom Ford; extra fine wool sweater ($280) by A.P.C.
Style Manual
Balibaris
14 Rue de Marseille, Paris,
France
In a city overflowing with chic shops, Balibaris
stands a cut above for its elegant, inimitably
French collection of sharply cut suiting and clean,
graphic knitwear.
balibaris.com
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More ColourBlocked Stuff
Behold,
the
perfect
pair of
ASK THE FASHION
shorts.
Q: Is it ap-
EDITOR:
A seven-inch
inseam, a versatile
(but not boring) colour,
and a smart new take
on the cargo pocket.
Oumlil
propriate to go
Jack Space
sockless with a
$200
suit at a summer
wedding?
A: As long as it isn’t black
Cotton button down shirt ($450), belt (Price Upon Request) by
Michael Bastian; sneakers ($770) by Billy Reid for K Swiss; sunglasses ($110) by Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane.
tie formal—and, if you’re the
groom, you’ve gotten permission from the bride—go nuts. A
word of advice: socklessness
is best served with trousers
that are tapered and hemmed
just the slightest bit short, so
that the hems barely graze the
tops of your shoes.
216
$550
Jack Purcell
$60
Michael
Bastian
$395
The Coolest Men’s Stores
in the World
The Style Rule
I Live By
“My stepfather
always told me that
it’s better to have
only a few things
of quality than
lots of expendable rubbish. I
believe this is the
right approach.”
– Patrick Johnson, owner, P. Johnson Tailors
Style Manual
BFM.S/S.14
Sid Mashburn
1198 Howell Mill Rd NW #112,
Atlanta, GA,
United States
The pitch perfect tailored-wear at this muchheralded Atlanta outfitter marries Southern preppiness with Italian fit and flair. sidmashburn.com
BFM.S/S.14
Paneling isn’t just for
’70s basement walls.
A colour-blocked button-down is your
ticket to minimalist, fashion-forward cool.
Style Manual
Linen-blend suit
($4,125) By Hermès.
217
This season, I’m most
excited to wear…
Bottega
Veneta
“Honestly, the item I’ll be
wearing more than anything
else is a simple, greatquality tee. After such a
long, rough winter, it’ll be
nice to not have to wear five
layers of clothing!”
$590
– Alex Danino,
owner, Rooney Shop
01
02
03
04
05
The Coolest Men’s
06
Stores in the World
01)Silk t-shirt
($545) by
Balenciaga,
at Holt Renfrew
02)Polyester-cotton
t-shirt ($100) by
John Varvatos, at
Harry Rosen
Give your tee some
storage space.
Don’t ask us why, but there’s something about a pocket on a t-shirt that just looks
great—even if you’ll never actually put anything in it.
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Style Manual
03)Cotton t-shirt
($160) by Burberry,
at Harry Rosen
04)Cotton t-shirt
($110) by A.P.C.,
at Holt Renfrew
05)Cotton t-shirt
($75) by
J.Lindeberg
06)Cotton t-shirt
($130) by Jack
Spade, at
Holt Renfrew
BFM.S/S.14
Unionmade
493 Sanchez St.,
San Francisco, CA,
United States
A West Coast mecca for hip contemporary
menswear, pulling together a massive array of
the coolest clothing, housewares and reading materials from across the globe: leather
bracelets from Italy’s Il Bisonte; chunky-soled
footwear from Paraboot in France; and handsome, classic outerwear made in San Francisco by Golden Bear. unionmadegoods.com
BFM.S/S.14
Step up your polo game.
Leave the crocodiles and ponies to
everyone else, and go for broke with a polo
doused in brash, convention-breaking attitude.
Style Manual
Cotton trousers ($380) by
Canali; bracelets ($145) by
JVDF; leather penny loafers
($295) by Tommy Hilfiger.
219
01
Every kind. Classic canvas
tennis shoes, high-tech
performance trainers, flashy
designer kicks, throwback vintage
runners, high-tops, low-tops,
slip-ons, whatever. They’re all in
style. Pick yours, and wear them
with everything from jeans to
dress pants.
220
02
Sneakers have
never been cooler.
08
012
Style Manual
03
05
06
09
013
014
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07
010
011
015
Style Manual
01) Lacoste, $125 02) Converse x PLAY COMME de GARCONS, $120, at Gravity Pope 03) Lanvin, $950, available at Harry Rosen 04) Maison Martin
Margiela, $490, at Harry Rosen 05) Prada, $550 06) Tiger of Sweden, $200 07) Nike, $110 08) Adidas, $110, at Gravity Pope 09) Vans, $50, at Get
Outside 010) Bottega Veneta, $790, at Holt Renfrew; 011) Lacoste, $135 012) Nike, $130 013) Vans x Diemme, $420 014) New Balance, $200 015)
Adidas, $95, at Gravity Pope
04
221
How It’s Done:
The rest of the denim
spectrum
Washed
jeans are
back.
White:
Denim, like
everything else
in fashion, moves
cyclically. And right
now, heavily stonewashed dungarees like
these are very much
in style.
Lightweight:
Of all the denim hues, white
makes the boldest statement, but it’s also in many
ways the most versatile.
On the stickiest days of
summer, a pair of feathery
10-ounce denim dungarees
will ensure you stay fresh.
Naked & Famous,
$160
Levi’s, $80
Gaye, M.
The Coolest Men’s Stores
Four Horsemen Shop
635 Johnson St.,
Victoria, BC,
Canada
Four Horsemen hosts a well-edited selection of
covetable brands like Norse Projects and Dana
Lee, but the boutique’s locally produced in-house
label is what makes it truly worth a visit.
fourhorsemen.ca
Cotton-linen sport coat ($1,895) by Ermenegildo
Zegna; cotton shirt ($385) by Michael Bastian;
linen pocket square ($155) and leather belt
($755) by Brunello Cucinelli; snuff suede shoes
($750) by Ralph Lauren.
in the World
Shipley
& Halmos
$235
Raw:
Black:
Unwashed and unembellished. The ultimate
basic. They look crisp and
uniform to start, and get
infinitely better after a few
months of heavy wear.
Best worn form-fittingly
slim with a short-sleeved
Henley, beat-to-shit boots
and a heavy dose of rock
star attitude.
United Stock Dry
Goods, $180
222
Style Manual
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Kamikaze Attack, $270
Style Manual
223
Go bold
at the
beach.
We’ve long been
extoling the virtues of
understated swimwear, but
this summer it’s time to let
loose and get a little wild.
These brash, cheekily
printed trunks from
Orlebar Brown are a great
place to start.
Four More
Trunks
That’ll Get
You
Noticed
How It’s Done:
Saturdays Surf NYC
$75
Bather Trunk Co.
$85
Orlebar
Brown
$590
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Style Manual
Cotton polo shirt ($385) by Michael Bastian; tortoise sunglasses
($95) by Warby Parker; bracelets ($145 and $4,130) by JVDF.
Flynn, S.
When the sun sets and the cool ocean air breezes
in, this washed, vintage-style Nantucket red sweatshirt will keep you comfortable.
RVCA
$65
Todd Snyder + Champion, $130
Joe Fresh
$25
Surfside
Essentials
The difference between
a bath towel and a
beach towel? Style,
man, style.
Nautica, $45
This season, I’m most
excited to wear…
“We did these really great
stretch nylon swim shorts.
They’re cute. You know, when
your bum starts to go, you
can’t wear a speedo.”
Friends don’t let friends wear
flip-flops. These waterproof slip-on
sneakers are a tasteful alternative.
Native, $50
– Dean Caten,
designer, DSquared2
THE RIGHT WATCH
Jean Richard
Aquascope
$3,200
BFM.S/S.14
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Style Manual
225
How It’s Done:
Expand
your sailorstriped
ISAIA
horizons.
(Price upon
request)
ASK THE FASHION
EDITOR:
Q: What’s the
right length for
Caine, M.
a trench coat
these days? I
Cream-and-blue
is timeless, of
course, but it’s also
obvious. A nautical
pullover with a pinch
more personality—like
this blaze orange
number, for instance—
will lend some serious
swashbuckling attitude
to a crisp cotton suit.
Orlebar
Brown
$150
haven’t bought
and the one I
The Coolest Men’s Stores
have goes down
in the World
to my knees.
A: Most modern trenches
If it ain’t broke…
only fix it a little.
At first glance, this trim, tailored trench looks as archetypal
as ever, like something Fred Astaire would’ve worn on the
silver screen. A closer look, however, reveals the colour has been
refreshed ever so slightly: the typical light tan has been inflected
with delicate tones of sherbet orange. It’s subtle, but effective.
226
and topcoats tend to fall
around the mid-thigh area
(like the one on the left, for instance). But while the shorter
rise is a function of the recent
shift towards more closely cut,
tailored silhouettes among
designers, the actual length of
the coat has very little bearing
on its modishness and overall
stylishness.
As long as your trench
fits you well by today’s
standards—meaning that it fits
comfortably over a suit, hugs
your shoulders and is trim
through the waistline—then
even if it reaches past your
knees, it won’t look the least
bit outdated.
Wool-linen two-button suit
($4,375), cotton shirt
($450), silk tie ($235) and
cotton-silk pocket square
($125) by ISAIA.
Style Manual
BFM.S/S.14
C’H’C’M’
2 Bond St., New York, NY,
United States
Designers from big retail chains are known to
stalk this hidden New York gem for “inspiration,” thanks to its ahead-of-the-curve medley of
goods from designers that you’ve never heard
of, but are about to fall in love with.
chcmshop.com
BFM.S/S.14
Cotton suit ($900) by BOSS; leather belt ($100) by Strellson; leather
boat shoes (price upon request) by Tommy Hilfiger.
one in years,
Style Manual
227
228
Style Manual
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Three
Walls
Seiko Le Grand
Sport Perpetual
Calendar Kinetic
$695
TAG Heuer
Carrera Calibre
5 Day-Date
$2,900
Wetsuit
Louis Vuitton
Tambour GMT
$4,450
Tudor Heritage
Black Bay
Price Upon Request
Style Manual
Guess
$95
Partying
Black
tie gala
Movado Museum
$495
Le Corbusier
Who are your
style icons?
Piaget
Altiplano
$26,000
Backyard
BBQ
Kenneth Cole
$130
The Fresh Prince
Longines Lépine
180th Anniversary
$2,450
Wes Anderson
film festival
What kind of event
are you going to?
88 Rue du Rhone
Double 8 Origin
Chrono
$910
Driving
Ernest Hemmingway
Work for
the company
Omega James
Bond 007 50th
Anniversary
Seamaster 300M
$5,000
Miss Moneypenny
and a
Walther PPK
Own the
company
Do you...
Traveling
What are you doing?
Boating
Vacheron
Constantin
Patrimony
Traditionnelle
Chronograph
Perpetual Calendar
$84,600
Private
Bathroom
IWC Portuguese
Chronograph
$7,900
Four
Walls
Does your office have...
Jeans
Weekends
Start
Suit
Weekdays
Is this for...
NO
A FLOWCHART
What do you wear to work?
YES
Is this your first watch?
How to choose
your next
watch.
229
Every
last detail
matters.
Stuff That Will
Never Be Cool
Despite what was implied in the
introduction, there are certain things
that will always be terrible.
Fanny packs • Jean
shorts • Socks and
sandals • Mock necks •
Deep V-neck tees • Zipoff cargo pants • Crocs •
Anything leather that’s
not outerwear or footwear • Cowboy boots
(unless you work on a
ranch) • Anything Don
Cherry has ever worn •
Ironic t-shirts
01
02
So take pride in—and have some fun with—the
little things. Opt for finishing touches bristling
with eye-catching eccentricities.
02
01
The Coolest Men’s
Stores in the World
03
05
2)Swarovski
crystal cufflinks ($165)
by Duchamp
London, at
Harry Rosen
3)Gold collar
stays ($15) by
Tyler & Tyler,
at Elevator
04
01)Wax braided
belt ($178) by
Strellson
The belt is
the new tie.
At the moment, there’s no accessory more essential. It’s time
to step outside your brown and black leather comfort zone.
230
02)Striped
belt ($160) by
Prada.
03)Suede
camo belt
($110) by
J.Lindeberg
04)Turquoise
cotton woven
belt ($85) by
Diesel
05)Woven elastic belt ($185)
by Anderson’s
Style Manual
03
1)Brass rifle tie bar
($50) by In God
We Trust, at
Elevator
04
4)Brass bracelet ($185) by
Miansai, at
Elevator
The Armoury
307 Peddler Building,
12 Peddler St., Hong Kong,
China
A new school haberdashery with an old world
vibe, stocked to the brim with enough softshouldered sportcoats, hand-rolled neckties
and suede monkstraps to make an Italian
sartorialist weep with joy.
thearmoury.com
BFM.S/S.14
5)Sterling
silver money
clip ($155) by
Prada, at
Harry Rosen
07
05
6)Sterling
silver keychain
($415) by
David Yurman,
at Holt Renfrew
06
7)Silk tie
($125) by
Oliver Spencer
BFM.S/S.14
Style Manual
231