Pettit RX8 install instructions RHD+LHD New 08

PETTIT RACING
Rotary Specialists
Pettit Racing RX-8 Compressor System
Installation Guide
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Rotary Specialists
Exploded View
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Rotary Specialists
Compressor Kit Components
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PETTIT RACING
Rotary Specialists
Important, Read This Before Installation
• The following information and recommendations are presented here for a reason. At Pettit Racing we learned over the years
that keeping a performance car both fast and reliable requires that the driver has a little more knowledge of the systems and is
able to perform a thorough visual inspection. This is very basic knowledge but it can enable you to stop a small detail from
turning into a major repair. And as we all know, this can happen with any car so this knowledge will be of benefit for life.
Observing the following guidelines will greatly improve your chances to drive a top-performing RX8 and enable you to keep it
performing for many years.
• First, always keep up with routine maintenance schedules. This way when you begin adding modifications, it will be to a vehicle
that is 100%. (i.e. fresh, clean fluids and filters, everything working properly, brakes and suspension operational, etc).
Obviously, if your vehicle is not running properly, upgrading could cause more harm. From our experience, we have found that
most problems are caused by simple oversights like a loose hose clamp or mixed-up plug wires. Poor fuel quality also
contributes; it can cause detonation that can damage the engine. Make sure to always run premium fuel. For racing and high
boost, race fuel can be mixed in as well.
• If you are sure your car is 100% you are ready to upgrade. If you are not sure, it is cheap insurance to have a full maintenance
service performed.
• Always add fuel lubricant to every tank of fuel. We recommend at least 4oz of Protek R with every fill up. Protek-R cuts friction,
gains power and reduces wear. Regular use of Protek-R can extend engine life by 30% or more. For more information see our
website: http://www.pettitracing.com/faq/faq_protek-r.htm
• Never allow a rotary engine to overheat; it can be ruined in less than five minutes with insufficient coolant.
• Detonation is bad, if detonation occurs, avoid that operating range until better fuel is obtained or the problem is corrected.
Detonation occurs most commonly at high load/boost levels; avoid driving or drive with light throttle at minimum power until the
problem is corrected.
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PETTIT RACING
Rotary Specialists
Important, Read This Before Installation (continued)
• Bad ignition coils can cause detonation also and these coils are commonly failing (even without boost), so it’s a good idea to
change them, especially ones with 25,000 miles or more. You can check the epoxy fill on the bottom; usually there are burn
spots or surface flaws if they ever got overheated. It is best practice to replace them and start fresh – now with our coil mount
cooling modification providing more air flow, they should last longer.
• Allowing the engine to properly warm up will greatly extend engine life. This is best accomplished by driving SLOW UNDER
4000RPM and accelerating lightly, for at least 10 minutes.
• Oil and filter change every 3000 miles or less. For hard driving like our test cars, we change every 2500 miles or sooner if it
looks dirty. Make sure you use a high quality performance oil.
• Change the spark plugs unless they have less than 10,000 miles, even then they should be inspected and gapped to .028 .030. Proper torque is essential, we have seen several cases of improperly torqued spark plugs, which can get carbon on the
threads and be very difficult to remove. Carbon on the threads and/or plugs that are loose reduce plug-to-block heat transfer,
run hotter and fail sooner. Improper torque is evidenced by a partially crushed washer.
• After 500 miles or so the compressor oil must be changed (use 20w 50 oil) and the belts and bolts should be checked and if
necessary retightened.
• Be careful when topping up oil in the new oil fill to avoid overfill and spillage running into the oil vent pipes.
• The whole concept behind upgrading is to have fun and to enjoy this one-of-a-kind vehicle. When you rush things, or do too
much at one time, it is much more likely to create problems. Take some time and do the research, learn the basics – it will pay
off in the long run.
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Instruction Checklist (page 1 of 3)
Checklist
Step #1 - Remove the following components/assemblies (listed in order, see pages 10 & 11):
Removal
NB If using ECU reflash, reflash & test the car before install begins
Engine cover (plastic not shown)
Upper shock tower brace
Battery cover, tie down, battery, plastic box and tray
Air cleaner / throttle body connector hose and cooling lines
Air cleaner
Air cleaner insulator
Loosen alternator
Water pump pulley
Alternator bracket
Disconnect all hoses and wires
Alternator
Throttle body
Loosen gas cap, disconnect and cap fuel and purge lines with supplied #2 caps
Intake manifold assembly (Important! Immediately cover 3 engine intake ports, oil filler and dipstick openings
with tape and supplied caps)
Coils, coil mount bracket and spark plug wires
Front cowling (forward of hood latch)
Front wheels
Front wheel well splash shields (Left & Right)
Front/side running lights (Left & Right)
Under cover
Front nose clip
Air intake hose and housing
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Installation
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Instruction Checklist (page 2 of 3)
Checklist
Removal
Step #2 – Part Modifications (see pages 12 - 16)
Cut the bracket bridge between bolt holes on top of engine, allows clearance for rear stud mount bracket. (Use Snips) (see
page 29)
Cut off left bracket of anti-lock brake manifold (Use Sawzall, Careful not to cut A/C line). Remove enough to avoid rubbing.
Cut away vacuum switch tank from oil fill neck (Use Sawzall or Hacksaw).
Modify air box, Coil mount bracket and mount coils (Use Sawzall, Snips and Drill).
Cut opening in front cowling for heat exchanger hose clearance (Use Snips).
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Step #3 – Heat Exchanger Installation (page 18)
Assemble heat exchangers (see page 16).
Connect upper brackets through existing holes in frame using supplied M8 bolts and nuts.
Connect lower brackets to lower radiator mounts, use existing hardware. (Upper brackets will bend slightly to allow the
lower brackets to mount properly).
Re-assemble the following parts: front nose clip, under cover, front/ side running lights (left & right), front wheel well splash
shields (left & right) and front wheels.
Installation
Step #5 - Wiring Harness Modifications (see pages 22 - 31)
Follow instructions to open harness and pull coil and throttle body wires into a split loom.
Connect the ground eye and coil harness connectors.
Apply 6” spiral wrap to main harness.
Install rear stud mount to block, rear bolt gets ground wire (see page 29).
Tie wrap harness back for stud clearance and to prevent harness from being pinched when compressor assembly is set in
place.
Wiring
Step #4 – Hose Re-routing (see pages 19 & 20)
Use 5/16 barbed hose coupling (supplied) to re-connect throttle body coolant hose. Hoses require trimming, see page 18 for
coupling placement. Use 2 existing hose clamps removed from throttle body.
Use 90° elbow from air cleaner / throttle body connector hose to connect the Oil Metering hose to the Jet Air Bypass hose.
Trimming of hoses required, see page 19 for elbow placement. Zip tie or clamp to secure.
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Instruction Checklist (page 3 of 3)
Checklist
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Installation
Step #6 – Installation (pages 32 – 42)
Rotate pulley until white dot on trigger plate is up (12 o’clock position), install crank pulley with green dot up, torque bolts evenly
to 70-95 in-lbs (80-110 kgf-cm).
Install stud and spacer (driver side water pump bolt).
Install remote oil fill adaptor with RTV and oil fill tube to left side master cylinder mount stud, connect hoses.
Reconnect fuel lines and zip tie.
Install vacuum/switch tank, tie-wrap in place with supplied reusable zip tie. Connect hoses and check valve.
Install studs, gaskets and manifold, torque evenly. Slide hump hose onto manifold, push back as far as possible.
Install the plug wires, fit supplied loom to each wire first. Zip tie loosely to brake lines. Note that once the compressor is in
place this operation will have to be performed from under the car.
Install compressor assembly, (minimum 3 hands needed) with front angled down align the front 3 studs, then set the rear
mount over the stud. Start and snug the 4 nuts. Slide hump hose onto I/C outlet.
Hold compressor to best position, install and tighten the two 3.5” T bolt clamps.
Tighten 3 front nuts, then rear stud nut, torque these nuts 13-19 lb-ft (1.9-2.6 kgf-m). These should be re-torqued after a
couple hundred miles.
Connect vacuum hoses to manifold nipple and bypass valve. If using a map sensor, connect another 3/16” hose T.
Reinstall alternator and connect wires.
Install belts and set proper tension.
Install modified air cleaner insulator.
Run harness and connect all grounds, main battery, coil ground, ignition capacitor and I/C pump harness.
Mount pump and tank, tie wrap harness along with coil and throttle body harness and secure harness to air cleaner insulator
bracket with zip ties through the drilled holes, keeping plenty of room from moving parts (see page 38).
Connect hoses to I/C inlet and pump outlet, connect return hose to tank.
Install coils and connect plug wires.
Install throttle body, filter adaptor and air filter, connect remaining hoses.
Install 1/8npt to 3/8 hose for brake booster, cut hose to fit and connect.
Fill compressor oil, (20w50 approximately 5 oz. This must be changed after 500 mile break-in).
Fill I/C tank and have a gallon of water ready to refill as level drops
Connect battery switch ignition on and verify pump operation by observing return flow into tank.
Start engine, confirm belts are running smooth in the grooves. Stop engine and verify belt tension is correct.
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Test drive.
PETTIT RACING
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Reflash procedure with EFIDude dongle
Reflash Procedure:
•Make sure EFIDude dongle is charge with a VIN token and is in programmer mode with the flash programme loaded
•Make sure vehicle battery is fully charged , or has a trickle charger still attached
•Turn the ignition key to position 2 (ignition on, but not engine started)
•Plug in the EFIDude dongle
•The Dude LED should turn RED and stay RED for about 1 or 2 minutes.
•Once the programming starts you will notice all the temperature gauges on the dash drop to zero (showing it has lost
communications with the ECU)
•DO NOT UNPLUG UNTIL YOU SEE THE RED LED TURN GREEN.
•Once the LED turns GREEN you will see the gauges return to normal.
•Unplug programmer and cycle the key to off.
•Turn ignition on
•If the Check Engine Light flashes when first turning the key on, you must reset the cam sensor. Rapidly press brake pedal 25
or so times just after turning the key on, until you see the gauges drop and return to normal. This indicates a successful reset.
•Start the car and let it find idle.
•Turn the dongle back into a logger again so no accidental “reflashes” are done!
•Drive car and log data!
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Throttle Body
Modification
Throttle Body
Connector Hose
Wiring
Air Cleaner
Air Cleaner Insulator
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Battery Cover
Battery Hold-Down,
Box and Tray
VFAD Variable Fresh
Air Duct
Removal
Upper Shock
Tower Brace
Checklist
Intake Manifold
Engine Component Removal
Installation
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Removed Components
Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Battery Tray
(reused)
Intake Manifold
Assembly
(reused - modified)
Air Cleaner Insulator
(reused - modified)
Stone Guard –
Not on all models
(not used)
Upper Shock
Tower Brace
(reused)
VFAD Variable Fresh
Air Duct (not used)
Throttle Body
(reused)
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Air Box/Throttle Body
Connector Hose
(1 90° elbow reused)
Modification
Front Splash Shields
& Under Cover
(reused)
Battery Tie-Down
(reused)
Removal
Battery Cover
(reused)
Air Cleaner
(not used)
Wiring
Installation
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ABS Bracket Modification
Checklist
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Installation
Carefully cut off the left ABS
mounting bracket
Mod Complete
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Vacuum Chamber Modification
Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – Vacuum Hose Assembly
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
To MAP Sensor
(not used with PCM Recalibration)
Check valve
directional arrow
Remove purge control valve from
stock plastic manifold
Wiring
Cut vacuum chamber from oil filler pipe
(be careful not to crush the chamber)
To BOV
To Manifold
Installation
Attach vacuum hose
assembly to tank using
existing check valve
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Air Cleaner Insulator Modifications
Checklist
Cut off 2 tabs to approximately
half their original height
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Drill a hole in each tab for wire ties
Trim both tabs as shown (4
places)
Wiring
Installation
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Air Cleaner Insulator Modifications (continued)
Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Remove vacuum
hose and clamps
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Drill hole for mounting
coil
bracket bolt
Wiring
Add 4 vent holes
under coils approx.
5/8” dia.
Cut off end
Installation
Coil bracket modification
Mount coil bracket to air box tray using bolt,
washer and Nylock nut.
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Heat Exchanger Hose Routing Modification
Checklist
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Installation
Cut hole for routing hoses of heat
exchanger assembly
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Heat Exchanger Assembly
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
2 – Hayden Cooler Core
2 – Tee Fitting
1 – 5/8 x 15” Hose
1 – 5/8 x 35” Hose
2 – 5/8 Hose Clamp
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Cut 2 pieces of hose 15” and 35”
long and install as shown. Hose
and clamps supplied in cooler kits.
Wiring
Installation
Install bracket as shown.
Bracket, bolts & nuts
supplied in cooler kits.
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Heat Exchanger Installation
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – Heat Exchanger Assembly
2 – Upper Brackets (Straight)
2 – Lower Brackets (Bent)
2 – M8 x 25mm Bolt
2 – M8 Flange Nut
4 – M6 Flange Nut
4 – M6 x 20 Bolt
Removal
Fasten with M8 bolt and
nut through existing hole in
frame.
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
(View from below left)
Route hoses through cutout in
front cowling and then through
hole in frame.
Wiring
Installation
Upper brackets will bend into position when
lower brackets are attached to lower radiator
mount (using existing hardware).
(View from top front)
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Cooling Hose Routing
Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – 5/16 Barbed Hose Coupling
Removal
Hose routing (after)
(View from front)
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
One of the original hoses can be
routed on the yellow / red route
shown below with no need for join
Modification
Trim back insulation to
allow hose clamp to be
installed
Wiring
Installation
Hose routing (before)
(View from front)
Cooling hose routing (after)
(View from left)
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Oil Metering/Jet Air Bypass Hose Routing
With piggy back management (NOT FOR REFLASH)
Checklist
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Hose routing (before)
Hose routing (after)
Installation
(Views from left)
Wiring
Trim hoses to fit, connect
using
90° elbow
from
Air Cleaner
/ Throttle Body connector
hose
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Hose Routing for use with PCM Recalibration
Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Removal
Keep oil vent as high as possible
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
To underside of
throttle body
(right side)
Installation
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Wiring Harness Connector Contact Removal Procedure
Checklist
Removal
Modification
Large paperclip with end
flattened by hammer, if
desired use a bottle cork
for handle.
Insert flat end of contact removal tool under contact lock tab, gently
pry up (this will release the contact), then pull the wire out. The
contact will not release if the wire is being pulled; first pry up the tab,
then pull the wire, if necessary use a third hand.
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Homemade contact
removal tool:
Wiring
Installation
Hand motions of how to
disengage the contact
lock tab inside the
connector plug
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Wiring Harness Modification Preparations
Checklist
Removal
The picture below shows the finished harness modification
for the coils and throttle body, which allows both the
ignition coils and throttle body to be relocated. This
modification can usually be completed in less than an hour.
Once complete, set the two harnesses aside, they will be
one of the last connections made prior to test driving.
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Begin by cutting the yellow tape on the main wiring
harness.
Wiring
Installation
(View from front)
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Wiring Harness Modifications
Rotary Specialists
Coil & Throttle Body Harness Connection
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
Butt Connectors
1 – Eyelet connector
1 – Heat shrink
2 – Small loom
Modification
Remove loom, tape, wire ties and harness
wrap along the colored paths. Red is the main
harness, Yellow is the coil plug harness and
Green is the throttle body connector harness.
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
(View from front)
Be careful not to cut into any wire
insulation or damage any wires
Wiring
Installation
Open the harness
exposing the
individual wires.
Note: Loom will be
reused.
(View from left)
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Wiring Harness Modifications (continued)
Coil & Throttle Body Harness Connection
Checklist
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Cut a 5/8-3/4” (Ø16mm-19mm) hole in the
loom. The hole is placed approximately 1”
right of the #1 harness support clamp. The
coil harness and throttle body harness will
now branch out here. Untangle the wires
and pull them through the hole.
Installation
There are 4 coil ground
wires leading into a
single wire with an eye
terminal. Carefully cut
only the single wire off
the ground eye at the
engine block (it will get
a new connector later).
It can then be pulled
out of the main
harness.
Removal
The throttle
body harness
and the coil
harness will also
need to be
opened.
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Wiring Harness Modifications (continued)
Coil & Throttle Body Harness Connection
Checklist
Removal
Locate the 4 colored coil
wires going to each of the 4
coil connectors.
Green (L1),
White (T1),
Yellow (L2)
Blue (T2)
It is recommended to label
each of the connectors.
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
It is not necessary to cut away the short
harness covers for the coil plugs.
Installation
(Views from left)
Wiring
Remove colored coil wires
from connectors following
the instructions on page 20.
Pull the four coil wires back
through the harness
covers, then untangle,
organize and regroup them.
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Wiring Harness Modifications (continued)
Coil & Throttle Body Harness Connection
Checklist
Removal
Not every harness is routed
the same; in some cases it
is necessary to cut the
black/white coil +12V wire
then reconnect it after it is
untangled and rerouted.
Modification
Installation
27
Wiring
The coil and throttle body
harness will now be two
separate harnesses and will be
connected to the coil and
throttle body later.
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Be sure to crimp all splices with the supplied butt
connector and use double heat shrink tubing; this
ensures a robust connection.
PETTIT RACING
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Wiring Harness Modifications (continued)
Coil & Throttle Body Harness Connection
Checklist
Wrap wire harness with electrical tape
prior to replacing loom
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
The picture above shows the coil and throttle body harnesses being
loomed. Use extra tape to protect the exposed wires where they exit
the main harness so the loom can not chafe or damage these wires.
Wiring
Installation
Connect each of the 4 coil wires back to their respective plugs.
When the connectors lock in place, a click should be heard.
Gently pull on the wire to ensure it’s properly locked. Tape and
cover wires with loom.
(Views from left)
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Coil & Throttle Body Harness Connection
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
1 – Eyelet Connector
2 – Heat Shrink
1 – Butt Connector
Wiring Harness Modifications (continued)
Completed Coil and Throttle Body Harness Modification
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Crimp and double heat shrink an
eyelet connector to the 4 into 1
ground wire that was cut from
the engine block terminal (see
page 23).
Wiring
Installation
Both harnesses should branch out
from where the 5/8” -3/4” (Ø16mm19mm) hole was cut in the seam of
the loom (see p. 23).
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Wiring Harness Modifications (continued)
Air Temp Sensor Harness Connection (NOT NEEDED FOR REFLASH)
Removal
Air Temp sensor
wires at the MAF
connector are
red/black and
black/green
Modification
VFAD connector, not used,
it can be removed or zip
tied out of the way.
Existing
MAF
connector
Wiring
Connect air temp harness wires to
the red/black and black/green wires
coming from main harness (not
from the MAF plug), wire pairing is
not important. Crimp and double
heat shrink, tape and cover harness
with loom. This harness connects
to the new manifold air temp
sensor.
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Strip back harness cover for air temp sensor wires
going to the MAF connector. Cut air temp sensor
wires (red/black and black/green) leaving a 3” tail
from the MAF connector.
Installation
(View from left)
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – Air Temp Harness
2 – Butt Connector
2 – Heat Shrink
1 – Small Loom
(View from front)
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Water Pump Stud and Rear Mount Modification
& Install
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – Rear Stud Plate
1 – M8 Nut
2 – M8-1.25 x20mm Bolt
1 – M8 x 150mm Stud
3 – M8 Flange Nut
1 – Spacer
Removal
Re-connect ground
wire connection on
rear bolt
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Cut plate and bend
down to engine case.
Remove plastic from hole
Install rear stud mount plate
Wiring
Installation
Install stud and
spacer as shown
Tie wrap harness to bracket.
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Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – Crank Pulley
4 – M6 x 25mm Bolt
Crank Pulley Installation
Removal
Rotate pulley until white dot on trigger plate is at the
12 o’clock position, install crank pulley with green
dot aligned with the white dot. Torque bolts evenly
to 70-95 in-lbs (80-110 kgf-cm).
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Installation
32
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Remote Oil Filler Installation
Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
1 – Oil fill adapter
1 – 5/8 tee
1 – 10” X 5/8 hose
1 – 4.5” X 5/8 hose
2 – 5/8 hose clamp
4 – Zip ties
Modification
10” X 5/8 hose
Install hoses and “T” fitting as shown.
4.5” X 5/8 hose
Install remote oil filler as
shown
(US /EU)
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Install adapter plate as shown
using RTV sealant
Wiring
RHD UK oil fill bracket
Installation
NB Keep oil vent hoses
as high as possible
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Intake Manifold Installation
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
7 – M6 x 30mm Stud
7 – M6 Flange Nut
1 – Intake Gasket Set
1 – Hump Hose
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Install intake manifold and torque nuts evenly to 7095 in-lbs (80-110 kgf-cm). Next, slide hump hose on
as far as you can push it to make room to install
supercharger. A little soapy water can help.
Wiring
Installation
Install (7) M6 studs PRIOR to removing tape/caps.
Remove the tape/caps and set gaskets in place.
(View from left)
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Spark Plug Wire Installation
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
1 – Spark Plug Wire Kit
4 – Pieces of Loom
1 – Zip tie
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Installation
Install the plug wires (fit supplied loom to each wire
first) and loosely zip tie to brake lines (do not pinch
wires). Note that once the compressor is in place
this operation will have to be performed from under
the car.
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Rotary Specialists
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – Large Zip Tie
Vacuum Chamber Installation
Removal
Only one “T” Is needed with PCM
reflash. Add another as shown to
connect MAP sensor.
Wiring
Installation
Plug in the 3 connectors (black, white & blue). Make
sure they are in the correct location, disconnect and
plug the hose to the VDI black plug. (there are
matching colored dots on the vacuum lines).
Chamber is rotated so that the 3
vacuum hoses face the intake.
Place the chamber as close to the
firewall as possible and secure it
with the zip tie routed earlier.
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Route zip tie under bracket. Make
sure not to route around any
supply hoses that are in the area.
Modification
PCM reflash route:
1. To vac tank (with check valve)
2. To Bosch bypass valve
3. To upper intake nipple
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Compressor Installation
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
1 – Supercharger Assembly
1 – M8 Flange Nut
2 – 3” T-bolt Clamp
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Install compressor assembly (minimum 3 hands needed). With front angled down align the front 3 studs, then set the
rear mount over the stud. Start and snug the 4 nuts. Slide hump hose onto I/C outlet.
Wiring
Move compressor for best alignment, install and tighten the two 3.5” T-bolt clamps.
Installation
Tighten the 3 front nuts, then the rear mount nut. Torque these nuts to 13-19 lb-ft (1.9-2.6 kgf-m). They should be retorqued after a couple hundred miles.
Connect vacuum hoses to manifold nipple and bypass valve. If using a map sensor, connect another 3/16” hose “T”
fitting.
Reinstall alternator and connect wires.
Install belts and set proper tension.
37
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Air Cleaner Insulator Installation
Checklist
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Install the air cleaner insulator in same position as
removed. Ensure no wires are trapped under tray.
(View from right)
Removal
Secure wire harness
using wire ties through
the 2 new holes in the
air cleaner insulator and
hole in bracket. Make
sure all wires are clear
from moving parts!
(View from left)
Wiring
Attach all 3 ground
wires and ignition
capacitor to
existing grounding
bolt.
Installation
Install and connect coils
(View from left)
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Intercooler Pump Wiring
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
1 – Intercooler Tank and Pump
1 – Pump Harness
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
Installation
Plug loom into fuse and relay box. Pump should
be running at “Ignition On”. Secure loom with zip
ties to insulator and other looms.
39
PETTIT RACING
Rotary Specialists
Air Cleaner Insulator Modification/ Installation
(Hose Routing)
Checklist
Removal
Parts from Kit:
1 – M6 x 65mm Bolt
1 – 35mm Spacer
4 – Zip Tie
Hoses from kit
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Install tank to side of air cleaner insulator using
65mm bolt and 35mm plastic spacer after drilling
a hole in the side of the air cleaner insulator.
Wiring
Installation
Connect hoses as shown.
Add zip ties as shown. Ensure hoses remain
clear of moving parts.
40
PETTIT RACING
Rotary Specialists
Throttle Body Installation and Vacuum Line
Termination
Checklist
Parts from Kit:
2 – Hose Receptacle Caps
Removal
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Installation
(View from right)
Wiring
Plug vacuum line with bolt
(2007 or later models only).
Plug unused hose receptacles with
supplied caps. Then throttle body is
ready for installation to the
compressor assembly.
41
PETTIT RACING
Rotary Specialists
The Finished Installation
Checklist
Removal
PCM recal (RHD install)
Modification
Heat Exchanger Plumbing
Wiring
External management (LHD install)
(no Mass Air Flow sensor)
Installation
42